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"disqusTitle": "Guddu de Karahi: Solid and Occasionally Stellar Pakistani-Indian Food Marred by Unpredictable Service",
"title": "Guddu de Karahi: Solid and Occasionally Stellar Pakistani-Indian Food Marred by Unpredictable Service",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_79463\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/Tandoori-Fish.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/Tandoori-Fish.jpg\" alt=\"Guddu de Karahi’s tandoori fish draws legions of fans to the Sunset. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"660\" class=\"size-full wp-image-79463\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Guddu de Karahi’s tandoori fish draws legions of fans to the Sunset. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>When walking up to \u003ca href=\"http://www.guddudekarahi.com/\">Guddu de Karahi\u003c/a> on a recent Saturday evening, I hoped that I’d be lucky. The Pakistani and Indian restaurant in the Sunset opened last fall to much fanfare from admirers of chef Guddu Haider’s previous Tenderloin restaurant, \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.kqed.org/checkplease/2010/05/20/lahore-karahi-restaurant-info/\">Lahore Karahi\u003c/a>, which changed ownership in 2012. Both incarnations of the restaurant, past and present, share a cult-like following of both the chef’s legendary tandoori fish and equally notorious service flaws. Stories of 90-minute delays between ordering and eating, followed by painfully slow waits for the check, are not uncommon. Surprisingly, few voices on the internet seemed to mind the service; most sung praises in the name of smoky tikka masala and charred and chewy naan. I, of course, wanted only to bask in the glory of the food and skip the waiting part. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Perhaps scheduling my visit for a Saturday night wasn’t the best choice. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_79465\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/Guddu-Outside.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/Guddu-Outside.jpg\" alt=\"Guddu de Karahi is the second restaurant from Guddu Haider, formally of Larore Karahi in the Tenderloin. It opened last fall. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"671\" class=\"size-full wp-image-79465\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Guddu de Karahi is the second restaurant from Guddu Haider, formally of Larore Karahi in the Tenderloin. It opened last fall. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>We walked in to a cacophonous room—the two men waiting and bussing tables were running around with urgency, clearing dishes and refilling water. The kitchen, staffed only by Haider, was churning out to-go orders. A small crowd of hungry diners was clustered at the door, and most of the tables were filled with patrons. There was little food in sight. In fact, I didn’t see a plate of food appear from the kitchen until long after we sat down. Clearly no one was going to be eating any time soon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My companion and I buckled down for the long hall, gladly receiving plates, water, and silverware as they sporadically appeared. After what felt like an infinite wait, our food began to arrive. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sizzling and smoky, the tandoori fish ($12.99) is an attention-grabber. It’s served on one of those cast-iron hotplates I first experienced topped with fajitas at so many anonymous Tex-Mex restaurants. But this fish is far better than those platters of dried chicken and peppers. The soft heat of the brilliantly fragrant tandoori spice lingers long after swallowing the flakes of moist white fish. Slivers of crisp onion and cabbage slowly soften and char on the hotplate, releasing their sweetness while retaining a pop of texture. Smoke from the platter infuses the rest of the food on the table. Dinner starts to feel a bit like a cookout—in a good way.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_79464\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/Bengan-Bhartha.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/Bengan-Bhartha.jpg\" alt=\"The bengan bhartha, curried eggplant with tomatoes and cream, demonstrates the wonder of South Asian vegetarian cooking. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"611\" class=\"size-full wp-image-79464\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The bengan bhartha, curried eggplant with tomatoes and cream, demonstrates the wonder of South Asian vegetarian cooking. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Equally riveting is Haider’s silky bengan bhartha ($7.50). It’s not nearly as picturesque as the fish, but its slapdash garnish of haphazardly strewn cilantro belies its depth of flavor. Every ounce of sweetness from the typically bitter nightshade is coaxed out slowly through what must have been gradual, careful roasting. Blended with tomatoes, cream, and countless spices, this velvety curry is the stuff of eggplant dreams.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_79460\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/Matar-Paneer.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/Matar-Paneer.jpg\" alt=\"Matar paneer is a vegetable curry featuring peas and cubes of paneer cheese. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-79460\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Matar paneer is a vegetable curry featuring peas and cubes of paneer cheese. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Not all of the vegetarian dishes are quite as stunning. The matar paneer ($7.50) is a solid rendition of the cheese and pea curry. Its peas are bright and snappy, its cheese is properly squishy, and it was distinctively different in spice profile than the bengan bhartha. Still, there was nothing in Haider’s matar paneer that truly popped, and little else to distinguish it from any other restaurant’s version. The bowl sat, mostly ignored throughout the meal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_79462\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/Saag-Gosht.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/Saag-Gosht.jpg\" alt=\"Haider’s saag gosht blends spinach with tender braised lamb. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-79462\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Haider’s saag gosht blends spinach with tender braised lamb. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Perhaps we were just distracted by the Saag Gosht ($8.99). This rich curry of cubed lamb suspended in a spinach-laced gravy shouldn’t be missed. Haider braises the tender pieces of meat until they fall away at the mere tap of the fork. The thick gravy holds hints of the grassy green—the spinach hums together with the gentle funk of the meat in perfect harmony. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Haider’s rice is fine for piling onto your plate under spoonfuls of curry, but the naan selections are an even better choice for sopping up the bottom of the bowls. Burnished with smoky char and slicked with ghee, the tender naan is a reminder of the power of a hot tandoor and a little leavening. Onion kulcha ($2.50) was a favorite, stuffed full of sweet sautéed onions and bright cilantro leaves, but there are five more from which to choose.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_79461\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/Onion-Kulcha.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/Onion-Kulcha.jpg\" alt=\"Onion kulcha is naan bread stuffed with sautéed onions and a generous handful of cilantro. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"680\" class=\"size-full wp-image-79461\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Onion kulcha is naan bread stuffed with sautéed onions and a generous handful of cilantro. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Was the food worth testing the limits of my patience? Probably not for someone like me, who lives a long drive away from Guddu de Karahi. Yes, much of the meal was memorable (and the eggplant revelatory), but all of the food would have needed to be perfect for me to want to wait again. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Information:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.guddudekarahi.com/\">Guddu de Karahi\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nAddress: \u003ca href=\"http://goo.gl/AIvhkC\">Map\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n1501 Noriega Street\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94122\u003cbr>\n(415) 759-9088\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hours:\u003cbr>\nWed-Sun 12pm-10pm\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Guddu de Karahi, the second Pakistani-Indian restaurant from local favorite Guddu Haider, opened to much fanfare last fall. Notorious for quirky and slow service, the restaurant draws acclaim for its tandoori fish. Is the long wait for dinner worth it? Kate Williams takes a look.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_79463\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/Tandoori-Fish.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/Tandoori-Fish.jpg\" alt=\"Guddu de Karahi’s tandoori fish draws legions of fans to the Sunset. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"660\" class=\"size-full wp-image-79463\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Guddu de Karahi’s tandoori fish draws legions of fans to the Sunset. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>When walking up to \u003ca href=\"http://www.guddudekarahi.com/\">Guddu de Karahi\u003c/a> on a recent Saturday evening, I hoped that I’d be lucky. The Pakistani and Indian restaurant in the Sunset opened last fall to much fanfare from admirers of chef Guddu Haider’s previous Tenderloin restaurant, \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.kqed.org/checkplease/2010/05/20/lahore-karahi-restaurant-info/\">Lahore Karahi\u003c/a>, which changed ownership in 2012. Both incarnations of the restaurant, past and present, share a cult-like following of both the chef’s legendary tandoori fish and equally notorious service flaws. Stories of 90-minute delays between ordering and eating, followed by painfully slow waits for the check, are not uncommon. Surprisingly, few voices on the internet seemed to mind the service; most sung praises in the name of smoky tikka masala and charred and chewy naan. I, of course, wanted only to bask in the glory of the food and skip the waiting part. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Perhaps scheduling my visit for a Saturday night wasn’t the best choice. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_79465\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/Guddu-Outside.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/Guddu-Outside.jpg\" alt=\"Guddu de Karahi is the second restaurant from Guddu Haider, formally of Larore Karahi in the Tenderloin. It opened last fall. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"671\" class=\"size-full wp-image-79465\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Guddu de Karahi is the second restaurant from Guddu Haider, formally of Larore Karahi in the Tenderloin. It opened last fall. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>We walked in to a cacophonous room—the two men waiting and bussing tables were running around with urgency, clearing dishes and refilling water. The kitchen, staffed only by Haider, was churning out to-go orders. A small crowd of hungry diners was clustered at the door, and most of the tables were filled with patrons. There was little food in sight. In fact, I didn’t see a plate of food appear from the kitchen until long after we sat down. Clearly no one was going to be eating any time soon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My companion and I buckled down for the long hall, gladly receiving plates, water, and silverware as they sporadically appeared. After what felt like an infinite wait, our food began to arrive. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sizzling and smoky, the tandoori fish ($12.99) is an attention-grabber. It’s served on one of those cast-iron hotplates I first experienced topped with fajitas at so many anonymous Tex-Mex restaurants. But this fish is far better than those platters of dried chicken and peppers. The soft heat of the brilliantly fragrant tandoori spice lingers long after swallowing the flakes of moist white fish. Slivers of crisp onion and cabbage slowly soften and char on the hotplate, releasing their sweetness while retaining a pop of texture. Smoke from the platter infuses the rest of the food on the table. Dinner starts to feel a bit like a cookout—in a good way.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_79464\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/Bengan-Bhartha.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/Bengan-Bhartha.jpg\" alt=\"The bengan bhartha, curried eggplant with tomatoes and cream, demonstrates the wonder of South Asian vegetarian cooking. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"611\" class=\"size-full wp-image-79464\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The bengan bhartha, curried eggplant with tomatoes and cream, demonstrates the wonder of South Asian vegetarian cooking. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Equally riveting is Haider’s silky bengan bhartha ($7.50). It’s not nearly as picturesque as the fish, but its slapdash garnish of haphazardly strewn cilantro belies its depth of flavor. Every ounce of sweetness from the typically bitter nightshade is coaxed out slowly through what must have been gradual, careful roasting. Blended with tomatoes, cream, and countless spices, this velvety curry is the stuff of eggplant dreams.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_79460\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/Matar-Paneer.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/Matar-Paneer.jpg\" alt=\"Matar paneer is a vegetable curry featuring peas and cubes of paneer cheese. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-79460\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Matar paneer is a vegetable curry featuring peas and cubes of paneer cheese. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Not all of the vegetarian dishes are quite as stunning. The matar paneer ($7.50) is a solid rendition of the cheese and pea curry. Its peas are bright and snappy, its cheese is properly squishy, and it was distinctively different in spice profile than the bengan bhartha. Still, there was nothing in Haider’s matar paneer that truly popped, and little else to distinguish it from any other restaurant’s version. The bowl sat, mostly ignored throughout the meal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_79462\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/Saag-Gosht.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/Saag-Gosht.jpg\" alt=\"Haider’s saag gosht blends spinach with tender braised lamb. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-79462\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Haider’s saag gosht blends spinach with tender braised lamb. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Perhaps we were just distracted by the Saag Gosht ($8.99). This rich curry of cubed lamb suspended in a spinach-laced gravy shouldn’t be missed. Haider braises the tender pieces of meat until they fall away at the mere tap of the fork. The thick gravy holds hints of the grassy green—the spinach hums together with the gentle funk of the meat in perfect harmony. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Haider’s rice is fine for piling onto your plate under spoonfuls of curry, but the naan selections are an even better choice for sopping up the bottom of the bowls. Burnished with smoky char and slicked with ghee, the tender naan is a reminder of the power of a hot tandoor and a little leavening. Onion kulcha ($2.50) was a favorite, stuffed full of sweet sautéed onions and bright cilantro leaves, but there are five more from which to choose.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_79461\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/Onion-Kulcha.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/Onion-Kulcha.jpg\" alt=\"Onion kulcha is naan bread stuffed with sautéed onions and a generous handful of cilantro. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"680\" class=\"size-full wp-image-79461\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Onion kulcha is naan bread stuffed with sautéed onions and a generous handful of cilantro. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Was the food worth testing the limits of my patience? Probably not for someone like me, who lives a long drive away from Guddu de Karahi. Yes, much of the meal was memorable (and the eggplant revelatory), but all of the food would have needed to be perfect for me to want to wait again. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Information:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.guddudekarahi.com/\">Guddu de Karahi\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nAddress: \u003ca href=\"http://goo.gl/AIvhkC\">Map\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n1501 Noriega Street\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94122\u003cbr>\n(415) 759-9088\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hours:\u003cbr>\nWed-Sun 12pm-10pm\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "What Honest Abe's Appetite Tells Us About His Life",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/2642901-24f0606d7a73753fde9c18c538d23b7083194f05.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-78323\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/2642901-24f0606d7a73753fde9c18c538d23b7083194f05.jpg\" alt=\"Abraham Lincoln, the 16th president, used to cook alongside his wife. \" width=\"1448\" height=\"1086\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Post by NPR Staff, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/02/17/277059262/what-honest-abes-appetite-tells-us-about-his-life\" target=\"_blank\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (2/17/2014)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78328\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 186px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/9781588344557_custom-51304644aef49084fb550af931f9a48e37abfdb6-s2-c85.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-78328\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/9781588344557_custom-51304644aef49084fb550af931f9a48e37abfdb6-s2-c85-186x290.jpg\" alt=\"Abraham Lincoln in the Kitchen: A Culinary View of Lincoln's Life and Times by Rae Katherine Eighmey\" width=\"186\" height=\"290\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Abraham Lincoln in the Kitchen: A Culinary View of Lincoln's Life and Times by Rae Katherine Eighmey\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Most people know Abraham Lincoln for his achievements as president. He issued the Emancipation Proclamation and held the nation together through the trauma of the Civil War. His Gettysburg Address is one of the best known in American history.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But what you might not know is that Lincoln cooked.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>From his childhood to his days in the White House, food played an integral part in shaping Lincoln's life, food historian \u003ca href=\"http://www.cookhistoric.com/Site/Home.html\">Rae Katherine Eighmey\u003c/a> tells \u003cem>Tell Me More's\u003c/em> Michel Martin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Eighmey's new book, \u003cem>Abraham Lincoln in the Kitchen: A Culinary View of Lincoln's Life and Times\u003c/em>, looks at our 16th president's life through the extraordinary stories of what he ate, cooked and served, along with recipes modified for the modern kitchen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"By looking at his life through the foods that he ate or may have eaten, or was exposed to, you're able to build a picture of him as a human man and as a family man,\" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What piqued Eighmey's interest was a simple tale of Lincoln putting on a blue apron after a day's work at his law office and helping his wife cook dinner. From there, Eighmey investigated stories of him cooking for the family after his mother died, cooking for his brothers as they journeyed down to New Orleans on a flatboat and of how the famous \u003ca href=\"http://voices.washingtonpost.com/mighty-appetite/2009/01/mary_todd_lincolns_white_cake.html\">Mary Todd Lincoln\u003c/a> white almond cake came to be. (Note: Modern recipes for the dessert are far easier than the original.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lincoln's cooking skills, says Eighmey, were part and parcel of the survival skills he needed during his hardscrabble upbringing. \"Like any pioneering child, you live in a one-room log cabin, you are essentially raised in the kitchen. When Lincoln's mother died [when he was 9], he and his sister had to take over taking care of themselves and their father.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One culinary moment that Eighmey says particularly captures Lincoln's personality involved Sen. Stephen Douglas and some gingerbread man cookies.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>During one of their famous debates — which helped catapult Lincoln into the national spotlight and eventually, the presidency — Lincoln grew tired of the constant false praises from Douglas. So, to make him stop, Lincoln told a story from his childhood.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He talked about how he once shared gingerbread cookies his mother made with a neighboring boy, who then told him that \"there's nobody who likes gingerbread as much as I do, and nobody who gets as little as I do.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"So Lincoln was contrasting that to how he doesn't get much flattery, and here Douglas was heaping it on him, you know, falsely,\" Eighmey says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the story doesn't just end there. In a way, Eighmey is also a detective, analyzing the stories to unravel recipes that Lincoln and his family likely used back in the 1800s.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the gingerbread story, Eighmey says, the clues were Lincoln's description of the cookies: that they were made from sorghum flour and ginger, and that he could stuff them in his pocket, which meant that the cookies were sturdy in texture. Using that as the starting point, she sifted through old cookbooks to find the closest recipe that fit those elements.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After Lincoln died, Eighmey says, many mourning Americans began to \"savor his life through food,\" giving rise to recipes in his honor such as \"the Lincoln cake.\" There are several different cake recipes with this name from that era, she says. (Her book includes one for a large, lightly fruited cake.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So what do you eat if you want to honor Lincoln's life this President's Day? Well, Eighmey suggest apples, which were his favorite food, and corn cakes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"He was said to have eaten those as fast as two women could prepare them,\" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/books/titles/277062068/abraham-lincoln-in-the-kitchen-a-culinary-view-of-lincolns-life-and-times\" target=\"_blank\">More on this book from NPR\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/books/titles/277062068/abraham-lincoln-in-the-kitchen-a-culinary-view-of-lincolns-life-and-times#excerpt\" target=\"_blank\">Read an excerpt\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003cbr>\n\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Abraham Lincoln is known as one of America's greatest presidents. Turns out, he was also a cook who used to join his wife in the kitchen after work. In her new culinary biography of Lincoln, a food historian walks us through his life with stories — and recipes — of what he ate, cooked and served.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/2642901-24f0606d7a73753fde9c18c538d23b7083194f05.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-78323\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/2642901-24f0606d7a73753fde9c18c538d23b7083194f05.jpg\" alt=\"Abraham Lincoln, the 16th president, used to cook alongside his wife. \" width=\"1448\" height=\"1086\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Post by NPR Staff, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/02/17/277059262/what-honest-abes-appetite-tells-us-about-his-life\" target=\"_blank\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (2/17/2014)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78328\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 186px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/9781588344557_custom-51304644aef49084fb550af931f9a48e37abfdb6-s2-c85.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-78328\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/9781588344557_custom-51304644aef49084fb550af931f9a48e37abfdb6-s2-c85-186x290.jpg\" alt=\"Abraham Lincoln in the Kitchen: A Culinary View of Lincoln's Life and Times by Rae Katherine Eighmey\" width=\"186\" height=\"290\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Abraham Lincoln in the Kitchen: A Culinary View of Lincoln's Life and Times by Rae Katherine Eighmey\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Most people know Abraham Lincoln for his achievements as president. He issued the Emancipation Proclamation and held the nation together through the trauma of the Civil War. His Gettysburg Address is one of the best known in American history.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But what you might not know is that Lincoln cooked.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>From his childhood to his days in the White House, food played an integral part in shaping Lincoln's life, food historian \u003ca href=\"http://www.cookhistoric.com/Site/Home.html\">Rae Katherine Eighmey\u003c/a> tells \u003cem>Tell Me More's\u003c/em> Michel Martin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Eighmey's new book, \u003cem>Abraham Lincoln in the Kitchen: A Culinary View of Lincoln's Life and Times\u003c/em>, looks at our 16th president's life through the extraordinary stories of what he ate, cooked and served, along with recipes modified for the modern kitchen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"By looking at his life through the foods that he ate or may have eaten, or was exposed to, you're able to build a picture of him as a human man and as a family man,\" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What piqued Eighmey's interest was a simple tale of Lincoln putting on a blue apron after a day's work at his law office and helping his wife cook dinner. From there, Eighmey investigated stories of him cooking for the family after his mother died, cooking for his brothers as they journeyed down to New Orleans on a flatboat and of how the famous \u003ca href=\"http://voices.washingtonpost.com/mighty-appetite/2009/01/mary_todd_lincolns_white_cake.html\">Mary Todd Lincoln\u003c/a> white almond cake came to be. (Note: Modern recipes for the dessert are far easier than the original.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lincoln's cooking skills, says Eighmey, were part and parcel of the survival skills he needed during his hardscrabble upbringing. \"Like any pioneering child, you live in a one-room log cabin, you are essentially raised in the kitchen. When Lincoln's mother died [when he was 9], he and his sister had to take over taking care of themselves and their father.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One culinary moment that Eighmey says particularly captures Lincoln's personality involved Sen. Stephen Douglas and some gingerbread man cookies.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>During one of their famous debates — which helped catapult Lincoln into the national spotlight and eventually, the presidency — Lincoln grew tired of the constant false praises from Douglas. So, to make him stop, Lincoln told a story from his childhood.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He talked about how he once shared gingerbread cookies his mother made with a neighboring boy, who then told him that \"there's nobody who likes gingerbread as much as I do, and nobody who gets as little as I do.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"So Lincoln was contrasting that to how he doesn't get much flattery, and here Douglas was heaping it on him, you know, falsely,\" Eighmey says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the story doesn't just end there. In a way, Eighmey is also a detective, analyzing the stories to unravel recipes that Lincoln and his family likely used back in the 1800s.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the gingerbread story, Eighmey says, the clues were Lincoln's description of the cookies: that they were made from sorghum flour and ginger, and that he could stuff them in his pocket, which meant that the cookies were sturdy in texture. Using that as the starting point, she sifted through old cookbooks to find the closest recipe that fit those elements.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After Lincoln died, Eighmey says, many mourning Americans began to \"savor his life through food,\" giving rise to recipes in his honor such as \"the Lincoln cake.\" There are several different cake recipes with this name from that era, she says. (Her book includes one for a large, lightly fruited cake.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So what do you eat if you want to honor Lincoln's life this President's Day? Well, Eighmey suggest apples, which were his favorite food, and corn cakes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"He was said to have eaten those as fast as two women could prepare them,\" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/books/titles/277062068/abraham-lincoln-in-the-kitchen-a-culinary-view-of-lincolns-life-and-times\" target=\"_blank\">More on this book from NPR\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/books/titles/277062068/abraham-lincoln-in-the-kitchen-a-culinary-view-of-lincolns-life-and-times#excerpt\" target=\"_blank\">Read an excerpt\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003cbr>\n\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "4 Slurps: Classic and Comforting Spots to Enjoy Mexican Soup in the Mission",
"title": "4 Slurps: Classic and Comforting Spots to Enjoy Mexican Soup in the Mission",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>Up until last week, it hasn’t much looked like winter here in the Bay Area. Yet winter it is, and with it comes chillier weather, seasonal flus, and (we hope) days filled with rain. There’s little better than a big bowl of soup to sooth a wintry soul: chicken noodle and take-out pho are fine picks, but there is a whole world of Mexican soups hidden amongst the burritos and beer in the Mission. Mexican soups like pozole and menudo are the strongholds, but Salvadoran and Yucatan restaurants each have their own twists on these classics.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We traveled up and down Mission Street to slurp the best soups we could find. Not wanting to limit our search for brunch-only specials, we focused on soups that are available just about any time of day for any kind of soup emergency. Four restaurants and their specialties stood at the top of the pack. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78123\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/pozole1000a.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/pozole1000a.jpg\" alt=\"Gallardo's pozole. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78123\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Gallardo's pozole. Photo: \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/wendy-goodfriend/\">Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/a>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Pozole: \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/gallardos-mexican-restaurant-san-francisco?ob=1\">Gallardos Mexican Restaurant\u003c/a>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>It would be hard to understand the transformative power of hominy without tasting Gallardos pozole. Each toothsome kernel offers its own burst of sweet corn flavor, with small pieces slowly drifting off into the deeply porky broth. The hominy thickens, flavors, and enriches the soup, haunting each successive bite, making it impossible to put down the spoon. The pork itself is a delight as well, with large pieces of bone-in meat adding heft and protein to the bowl. Toppings—radishes, cabbage, lime juice—are obligatory, providing textural contrast, bright zip, and a pop of color. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78127\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/beef-soup1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/beef-soup1000.jpg\" alt=\"Gallardos caldo de res (beef soup). Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78127\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Gallardos caldo de res (beef soup). Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>On the weekends, a line forms out the door populated with diners hoping to nosh on their house speciality: birra, spicy braised lamb served with a rich broth. But on a weekday, those soup lovers searching for something other than pozole should seek out the caldo de res (beef soup). The soup is more akin to a pot roast served in broth, with towering hunks of beef shank and short ribs almost overwhelming the subtle broth. Equally large pieces of super soft carrots, potato, corn, and zucchini break up the bounty of beef. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78130\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/gallardos-moviephotos.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/gallardos-moviephotos.jpg\" alt=\"Gallardos interior includes a display of classic Mexican movie photos. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78130\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Gallardos interior includes a display of classic Mexican movie photos. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Gallardos itself is a pleasant place to pass the afternoon. Their new space at 18th and Shotwell is bright, airy, and still adorned with huge black and white photos of classic Mexican movie stars. The decor is far from the Tex-Mex kitsch typical of the neighboring taquerias. Best of all, on a quiet weekday afternoon, there are only a few other diners, offering plenty of room to slurp down a transformative bowl of pozole in peace.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[gallery type=\"slideshow\" link=\"file\" ids=\"78128,78125,78129\"]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Information:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/gallardos-mexican-restaurant-san-francisco?ob=1\">Gallardos Mexican Restaurant\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nAddress: \u003ca href=\"http://goo.gl/NCCHkP\">Map\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n3248 18th St.\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94110\u003cbr>\nPhone: (415) 436-9387\u003cbr>\nHours: Mon-Sun 7am-8pm\u003cbr>\nSoup Price Range: $8-$10, CASH ONLY\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78150\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/chix-soup1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/chix-soup1000.jpg\" alt=\"Chava's caldo de pollo. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78150\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chava's caldo de pollo. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Caldo de Pollo: \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/chavas-restaurant-san-francisco?ob=1\">Chava’s Restaurant\u003c/a>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>If brothy chicken soup sounds like more of a winter cure, head to Chava’s for their caldo de pollo. It is a soup with little fanfare: bone-in chicken, vegetables, and copious broth. But forget the solid bits for a minute. Sip on the broth. Slurp it from a spoon, soak it into a tortilla. Inhale. Let its quiet warmth fill the belly. Then, only then, bite into the miraculously tender chicken breast, tear apart the wings, and savor the vegetables. Chava’s caldo de pollo will not win any awards for creativity, but it’d be my first choice the next time I’m down with the flu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78149\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/seafood-soup1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/seafood-soup1000.jpg\" alt=\"Chava's sopa 7 mares. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78149\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chava's sopa 7 mares. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Chava’s also serves a colorful sopa 7 mares, a seafood soup of shrimp, octopus, fish, scallops, crab, mussels, clam, and squid. The broth, perfumed with shellfish, is far more satisfying than the chewy morsels inside. Flaky white fish is on the dry side, and the clams and mussels gritty. The advertised crab and scallops were hard to find.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78152\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/interior-murals1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/interior-murals1000.jpg\" alt=\"Murals adorn Chava's interior. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78152\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Murals adorn Chava's interior. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Unlike Gallardos, Chava’s is abundant in south-of-the-border décor. Its pleasant tackiness distracts from the bustle of the 24th Street BART across the street, making the restaurant a calm oasis at lunchtime. Service is friendly, but hands-off, a boon to anyone looking to cure a cold with their restorative chicken soup. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[gallery type=\"slideshow\" link=\"file\" ids=\"78162,78154,78161\"]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Information:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/chavas-restaurant-san-francisco?ob=1\">Chava’s Restaurant\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nAddress: \u003ca href=\"http://goo.gl/UxUAET\">Map\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n2839 Mission St.\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94110\u003cbr>\nPhone:(415) 282-0283\u003cbr>\nHours: Mon-Sun 8am-8pm\u003cbr>\nSoup Price Range: $8.50-$13.50, CASH ONLY/ATM\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78175\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/caldo-de-res1000a.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/caldo-de-res1000a.jpg\" alt=\"SanJalisco's caldo de res (beef soup). Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78175\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">SanJalisco's caldo de res (beef soup). Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Caldo de Res: \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/sanjalisco-san-francisco?ob=1\">SanJalisco\u003c/a>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>For some of the best in Mexican beef soup, take a jaunt down to 20th and Van Ness to bustling SanJalisco. Walking into the beloved Mexican joint feels like stepping into a curious amalgamation of a 1950's American diner and a wizened Tex-Mex restaurant. A long, Formica countertop anchors the space, which is accented with padded booths, Coco-Cola swag and coffee percolators. Sit down, and you’ll be greeted with a long menu of Mexican staples, all-day breakfast, and if you’re lucky, a mariachi band. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78171\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/green-pozole1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/green-pozole1000.jpg\" alt=\"SanJalisco's pozole verde. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78171\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">SanJalisco's pozole verde. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>SanJalisco is famous for their chilaquiles, but their soups are far from something to scoff at. On the day of our visit, a chicken-filled pozole verde was on special—a tangy, bright example of the form, abundant with fresh green chiles. The stew is not as rib-sticking as Gallardos’s pork version, but nearly as satisfying. Even better is their caldo de res. Less a fork and knife meal than in other restaurants, SanJalisco’s take is a broth beefy and pure, punctuated with meltingly tender short ribs and properly tender vegetables. Fresh, well-charred homemade tortillas are a fine accompaniment, as is the rice—it is crunchy on its own, but a dip into the warm broth plumps the grains and infuses them with the soul of the soup.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78178\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/sanjalisco-interior1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/sanjalisco-interior1000.jpg\" alt=\"SanJalisco's festive interior. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78178\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">SanJalisco's festive interior. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>[gallery type=\"slideshow\" link=\"file\" ids=\"78169,78170,78177\"]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Information:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/sanjalisco-san-francisco?ob=1\">SanJalisco\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nAddress: \u003ca href=\"http://goo.gl/UokWS6\">Map\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n901 South Van Ness Ave.\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94110\u003cbr>\nPhone:(415) 648-8383\u003cbr>\nHours: Mon-Sun 8am-10pm\u003cbr>\nSoup Price Range: $7.95-$16.95\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78190\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/sopa-de-pescado1000a.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/sopa-de-pescado1000a.jpg\" alt=\"La Santaneca De La Mission's sopa de pescado. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78190\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">La Santaneca De La Mission's sopa de pescado. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Sopa de Pescado and Sopa de Res: \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/la-santaneca-de-la-mission-san-francisco?ob=1\">La Santaneca De La Mission\u003c/a>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>Back up on Mission Street is a small Salvadoran restaurant worthy of its profuse admiration. Yelpers sing praises of La Santaneca De La Mission’s pupusas, but don’t skip the soups—rainy day or not—on your visit. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78192\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/la-santaneca-interior1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/la-santaneca-interior1000.jpg\" alt=\"Busy lunchtime crowd at La Santaneca De La Mission. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78192\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Busy lunchtime crowd at La Santaneca De La Mission. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Sliding into a booth in their crowded, dimly lit dining room is like stepping into a womb-like cocoon. Inhaling whiffs of broth, corn, and cheese wafting out from the kitchen heightens the sense of warmth. This comfort only increases upon the first sips of soup. Try first the fragrant sopa de pescado. Its broth, enhanced with tomato and infused with mysterious Salvadoran spices, is far more complex than fish bones simmered in water. Each successive spoonful reveals more even complexity; it would be easy to get lost in the broth without even trying the fish. Yet the seafood, cooked bone-in and skin on, is a wonder in itself. Just cooked through and robustly seasoned, the pieces of fish are as fine as in any white tablecloth restaurant. Large chunks of hard boiled egg are a fun surprise.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78187\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/sopa-de-res1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/sopa-de-res1000.jpg\" alt=\"La Santaneca De La Mission's sopa de res. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78187\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">La Santaneca De La Mission's sopa de res. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The sopa de res, El Salvador’s version of Mexican beef stew, was also impossible to put down. Where SanJalisco’s beef broth was light, La Santaneca De La Mission’s is marrow rich. Like their sopa de pescado, the beef broth is imbued with Salvadoran aromatics, topped with hearty chopped greens, and shot through with lemon juice. Each element of the soup, from the succulent short ribs to the wholesome vegetables is clearly executed with care. It is possible to love the bites of tender chayote squash just as much as the pieces of beef. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78191\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/la-santaneca-exterior1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/la-santaneca-exterior1000.jpg\" alt=\"La Santaneca De La Mission exterior. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78191\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">La Santaneca De La Mission exterior. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Information:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/la-santaneca-de-la-mission-san-francisco?ob=1\">La Santaneca De La Mission\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nAddress: \u003ca href=\"http://goo.gl/i0n8cD\">Map\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n2815 Mission St.\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94110\u003cbr>\nPhone:(415) 285-2131\u003cbr>\nHours: Mon-Thu 8:30am-8pm, Fri-Sat 8:30am-10pm, Sun 8:30am-9pm\u003cbr>\nSoup Price Range: $7.75-$13.75, CASH ONLY\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "It may not look like winter in the Bay Area, but despite the weather, it can be nice to take solace in a big bowl of warming soup. For the best in Mexican soups, Kate Williams headed to the Mission to sip her way through a bounty of broth-filled comfort.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Up until last week, it hasn’t much looked like winter here in the Bay Area. Yet winter it is, and with it comes chillier weather, seasonal flus, and (we hope) days filled with rain. There’s little better than a big bowl of soup to sooth a wintry soul: chicken noodle and take-out pho are fine picks, but there is a whole world of Mexican soups hidden amongst the burritos and beer in the Mission. Mexican soups like pozole and menudo are the strongholds, but Salvadoran and Yucatan restaurants each have their own twists on these classics.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We traveled up and down Mission Street to slurp the best soups we could find. Not wanting to limit our search for brunch-only specials, we focused on soups that are available just about any time of day for any kind of soup emergency. Four restaurants and their specialties stood at the top of the pack. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78123\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/pozole1000a.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/pozole1000a.jpg\" alt=\"Gallardo's pozole. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78123\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Gallardo's pozole. Photo: \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/wendy-goodfriend/\">Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/a>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Pozole: \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/gallardos-mexican-restaurant-san-francisco?ob=1\">Gallardos Mexican Restaurant\u003c/a>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>It would be hard to understand the transformative power of hominy without tasting Gallardos pozole. Each toothsome kernel offers its own burst of sweet corn flavor, with small pieces slowly drifting off into the deeply porky broth. The hominy thickens, flavors, and enriches the soup, haunting each successive bite, making it impossible to put down the spoon. The pork itself is a delight as well, with large pieces of bone-in meat adding heft and protein to the bowl. Toppings—radishes, cabbage, lime juice—are obligatory, providing textural contrast, bright zip, and a pop of color. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78127\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/beef-soup1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/beef-soup1000.jpg\" alt=\"Gallardos caldo de res (beef soup). Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78127\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Gallardos caldo de res (beef soup). Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>On the weekends, a line forms out the door populated with diners hoping to nosh on their house speciality: birra, spicy braised lamb served with a rich broth. But on a weekday, those soup lovers searching for something other than pozole should seek out the caldo de res (beef soup). The soup is more akin to a pot roast served in broth, with towering hunks of beef shank and short ribs almost overwhelming the subtle broth. Equally large pieces of super soft carrots, potato, corn, and zucchini break up the bounty of beef. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78130\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/gallardos-moviephotos.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/gallardos-moviephotos.jpg\" alt=\"Gallardos interior includes a display of classic Mexican movie photos. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78130\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Gallardos interior includes a display of classic Mexican movie photos. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Gallardos itself is a pleasant place to pass the afternoon. Their new space at 18th and Shotwell is bright, airy, and still adorned with huge black and white photos of classic Mexican movie stars. The decor is far from the Tex-Mex kitsch typical of the neighboring taquerias. Best of all, on a quiet weekday afternoon, there are only a few other diners, offering plenty of room to slurp down a transformative bowl of pozole in peace.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Information:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/gallardos-mexican-restaurant-san-francisco?ob=1\">Gallardos Mexican Restaurant\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nAddress: \u003ca href=\"http://goo.gl/NCCHkP\">Map\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n3248 18th St.\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94110\u003cbr>\nPhone: (415) 436-9387\u003cbr>\nHours: Mon-Sun 7am-8pm\u003cbr>\nSoup Price Range: $8-$10, CASH ONLY\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78150\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/chix-soup1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/chix-soup1000.jpg\" alt=\"Chava's caldo de pollo. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78150\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chava's caldo de pollo. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Caldo de Pollo: \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/chavas-restaurant-san-francisco?ob=1\">Chava’s Restaurant\u003c/a>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>If brothy chicken soup sounds like more of a winter cure, head to Chava’s for their caldo de pollo. It is a soup with little fanfare: bone-in chicken, vegetables, and copious broth. But forget the solid bits for a minute. Sip on the broth. Slurp it from a spoon, soak it into a tortilla. Inhale. Let its quiet warmth fill the belly. Then, only then, bite into the miraculously tender chicken breast, tear apart the wings, and savor the vegetables. Chava’s caldo de pollo will not win any awards for creativity, but it’d be my first choice the next time I’m down with the flu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78149\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/seafood-soup1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/seafood-soup1000.jpg\" alt=\"Chava's sopa 7 mares. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78149\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chava's sopa 7 mares. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Chava’s also serves a colorful sopa 7 mares, a seafood soup of shrimp, octopus, fish, scallops, crab, mussels, clam, and squid. The broth, perfumed with shellfish, is far more satisfying than the chewy morsels inside. Flaky white fish is on the dry side, and the clams and mussels gritty. The advertised crab and scallops were hard to find.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78152\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/interior-murals1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/interior-murals1000.jpg\" alt=\"Murals adorn Chava's interior. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78152\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Murals adorn Chava's interior. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Unlike Gallardos, Chava’s is abundant in south-of-the-border décor. Its pleasant tackiness distracts from the bustle of the 24th Street BART across the street, making the restaurant a calm oasis at lunchtime. Service is friendly, but hands-off, a boon to anyone looking to cure a cold with their restorative chicken soup. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Information:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/chavas-restaurant-san-francisco?ob=1\">Chava’s Restaurant\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nAddress: \u003ca href=\"http://goo.gl/UxUAET\">Map\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n2839 Mission St.\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94110\u003cbr>\nPhone:(415) 282-0283\u003cbr>\nHours: Mon-Sun 8am-8pm\u003cbr>\nSoup Price Range: $8.50-$13.50, CASH ONLY/ATM\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78175\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/caldo-de-res1000a.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/caldo-de-res1000a.jpg\" alt=\"SanJalisco's caldo de res (beef soup). Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78175\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">SanJalisco's caldo de res (beef soup). Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Caldo de Res: \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/sanjalisco-san-francisco?ob=1\">SanJalisco\u003c/a>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>For some of the best in Mexican beef soup, take a jaunt down to 20th and Van Ness to bustling SanJalisco. Walking into the beloved Mexican joint feels like stepping into a curious amalgamation of a 1950's American diner and a wizened Tex-Mex restaurant. A long, Formica countertop anchors the space, which is accented with padded booths, Coco-Cola swag and coffee percolators. Sit down, and you’ll be greeted with a long menu of Mexican staples, all-day breakfast, and if you’re lucky, a mariachi band. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78171\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/green-pozole1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/green-pozole1000.jpg\" alt=\"SanJalisco's pozole verde. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78171\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">SanJalisco's pozole verde. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>SanJalisco is famous for their chilaquiles, but their soups are far from something to scoff at. On the day of our visit, a chicken-filled pozole verde was on special—a tangy, bright example of the form, abundant with fresh green chiles. The stew is not as rib-sticking as Gallardos’s pork version, but nearly as satisfying. Even better is their caldo de res. Less a fork and knife meal than in other restaurants, SanJalisco’s take is a broth beefy and pure, punctuated with meltingly tender short ribs and properly tender vegetables. Fresh, well-charred homemade tortillas are a fine accompaniment, as is the rice—it is crunchy on its own, but a dip into the warm broth plumps the grains and infuses them with the soul of the soup.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78178\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/sanjalisco-interior1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/sanjalisco-interior1000.jpg\" alt=\"SanJalisco's festive interior. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78178\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">SanJalisco's festive interior. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Information:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/sanjalisco-san-francisco?ob=1\">SanJalisco\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nAddress: \u003ca href=\"http://goo.gl/UokWS6\">Map\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n901 South Van Ness Ave.\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94110\u003cbr>\nPhone:(415) 648-8383\u003cbr>\nHours: Mon-Sun 8am-10pm\u003cbr>\nSoup Price Range: $7.95-$16.95\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78190\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/sopa-de-pescado1000a.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/sopa-de-pescado1000a.jpg\" alt=\"La Santaneca De La Mission's sopa de pescado. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78190\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">La Santaneca De La Mission's sopa de pescado. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Sopa de Pescado and Sopa de Res: \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/la-santaneca-de-la-mission-san-francisco?ob=1\">La Santaneca De La Mission\u003c/a>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>Back up on Mission Street is a small Salvadoran restaurant worthy of its profuse admiration. Yelpers sing praises of La Santaneca De La Mission’s pupusas, but don’t skip the soups—rainy day or not—on your visit. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78192\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/la-santaneca-interior1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/la-santaneca-interior1000.jpg\" alt=\"Busy lunchtime crowd at La Santaneca De La Mission. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78192\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Busy lunchtime crowd at La Santaneca De La Mission. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Sliding into a booth in their crowded, dimly lit dining room is like stepping into a womb-like cocoon. Inhaling whiffs of broth, corn, and cheese wafting out from the kitchen heightens the sense of warmth. This comfort only increases upon the first sips of soup. Try first the fragrant sopa de pescado. Its broth, enhanced with tomato and infused with mysterious Salvadoran spices, is far more complex than fish bones simmered in water. Each successive spoonful reveals more even complexity; it would be easy to get lost in the broth without even trying the fish. Yet the seafood, cooked bone-in and skin on, is a wonder in itself. Just cooked through and robustly seasoned, the pieces of fish are as fine as in any white tablecloth restaurant. Large chunks of hard boiled egg are a fun surprise.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78187\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/sopa-de-res1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/sopa-de-res1000.jpg\" alt=\"La Santaneca De La Mission's sopa de res. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78187\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">La Santaneca De La Mission's sopa de res. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The sopa de res, El Salvador’s version of Mexican beef stew, was also impossible to put down. Where SanJalisco’s beef broth was light, La Santaneca De La Mission’s is marrow rich. Like their sopa de pescado, the beef broth is imbued with Salvadoran aromatics, topped with hearty chopped greens, and shot through with lemon juice. Each element of the soup, from the succulent short ribs to the wholesome vegetables is clearly executed with care. It is possible to love the bites of tender chayote squash just as much as the pieces of beef. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78191\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/la-santaneca-exterior1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/la-santaneca-exterior1000.jpg\" alt=\"La Santaneca De La Mission exterior. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78191\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">La Santaneca De La Mission exterior. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Information:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/la-santaneca-de-la-mission-san-francisco?ob=1\">La Santaneca De La Mission\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nAddress: \u003ca href=\"http://goo.gl/i0n8cD\">Map\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n2815 Mission St.\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94110\u003cbr>\nPhone:(415) 285-2131\u003cbr>\nHours: Mon-Thu 8:30am-8pm, Fri-Sat 8:30am-10pm, Sun 8:30am-9pm\u003cbr>\nSoup Price Range: $7.75-$13.75, CASH ONLY\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "First Bites: PizzaHacker",
"title": "First Bites: PizzaHacker",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77850\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/2014-02-05_DSC8053.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/2014-02-05_DSC8053.jpg\" alt=\"Top Shelf Marg pizza at PizzaHacker. Photo: Naomi Fiss\" width=\"1000\" height=\"714\" class=\"size-full wp-image-77850\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Top Shelf Marg pizza at PizzaHacker.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>All Photos by\u003c/em> \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/naomifliss/\">\u003cem>Naomi Fiss\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Much like our insatiable love for coffee shops, bakeries, ramen joints, and taquerias, there seems to be no limit to the number of pizzerias San Franciscans will support. Does the Mission/Bernal area really need another place to get a pie? Beretta, Flour and Water, Little Star, Arizmendi's, Pauline's, Arinell's, Zante's, Pizzeria Delfina, Bernal Heights Pizza, Pizza Express, and La Nebbia, Haystack, and Paxti's over in Noe Valley: still not enough to sate your chewy dough n' cheese cravings? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Apparently not, judging by the happy crowds scarfing up fresh-from-the-oven pies at \u003ca href=\"http://www.thepizzahacker.com\">PizzaHacker\u003c/a>, Mission Street's latest pizza destination. Located on Mission St. near 29th St., in the former Inka's space, PizzaHacker is the brick-and-mortar incarnation of the pop-up venture that owner Jeff Krupman started in 2009. Strings of multi-colored Edison bulbs loop above bright-orange metal picnic tables, making what was probably once a bank feel like a beer garden. Painted chalkboard walls serve as outlets for free expression by the chalk-scrawling youngsters who create masterpieces while waiting for the dough-slingers in the open kitchen to send out their pizzas. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77834\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/2014-02-05_DSC7929.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/2014-02-05_DSC7929.jpg\" alt=\"PizzaHacker interior. Photo: Naomi Fiss\" width=\"1000\" height=\"664\" class=\"size-full wp-image-77834\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">PizzaHacker interior.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>One thing to note: all those hard surfaces means the place gets loud, loud, loud, especially when the under-10 set's in the house. But those skinny communal tables don't encourage lingering; the modus operandi is get your pizza, share a salad, down a beer or two and head out, for bar-hopping or bedtime. The staff is smiling and sweet, and the food shows up fast, another reason it's been instantly popular with parents in the nabe. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77835\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/2014-02-05_DSC7933.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/2014-02-05_DSC7933.jpg\" alt=\"PizzaHacker chalkboard pizza menu. Photo: Naomi Fiss\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-77835\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">PizzaHacker chalkboard pizza menu.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The choices are relaxingly few: five pies ($15), one salad ($8), four local beers on tap ($5), a red wine, a white wine ($8/glass), and four bottled soft drinks ($3). \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77839\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/2014-02-05_DSC7963.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/2014-02-05_DSC7963.jpg\" alt=\"PizzaHacker's Chalkboard menu is kid-friendly. Photo: Naomi Fiss\" width=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-77839\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">PizzaHacker's Chalkboard menu is kid-friendly.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Loaded with chickpeas, kidney beans, grated eggs, carrots, and cucumbers, and lathered up with a slightly sweet poppyseed dressing, \u003cstrong>The Intermezzo salad\u003c/strong> is a big-bowl throwback to the generous hippie salads dished out at the much-missed Cafe Intermezzo, a longtime Telegraph Avenue staple that burned down in 2012. There may be more raddichio, and fewer sprouts, than in the hippie original, but the generosity of spirit (and portions) is the same; the salad also makes a filling vegetarian option for the gluten-free or cheese-avoident. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77840\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/2014-02-05_DSC7965.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/2014-02-05_DSC7965.jpg\" alt=\"Dough-slinging in the open kitchen. Photo: Naomi Fiss\" width=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-77840\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dough-slinging in the open kitchen.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The basic pie is the \u003cstrong>Top Shelf Marg\u003c/strong>, with tomato sauce made from dry-farmed early girl tomatoes, a stretchy, snuggly blanket of house-made mozzarella, plus some leaves of basil here and there. It's heavier on the cheese than, say, the austere, puffy-crusted pies of \u003ca href=\"http://www.unapizza.com/\">Una Pizza Napoletana\u003c/a>, where crust is all and the stingy toppings feel meted out for the lesser enjoyment of those who can't yet subsist on flour and water alone. Here, the cheese is sweet and snow-white, unctuously layered over a light, well-proofed crust. A little too much char here and there, yes, a few too many black bubbles indicative of a crust left for just a few seconds too long in the 700-degree heat of the electric pizza ovens. The tomato sauce takes a bit of a back seat, but overall, for those who like their cheese, this is very pleasing (and kid-friendly) pie. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77842\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/2014-02-05_DSC7986.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/2014-02-05_DSC7986.jpg\" alt=\"Preparing Rocket Man pie in the open kitchen. Photo: Naomi Fiss\" width=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-77842\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Preparing Rocket Man pie in the open kitchen.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>On to the rest of the winter menu: \u003cstrong>Rocket Man\u003c/strong> is topped with a lovely, lemony-bright salad of fresh arugula, a fluffy garden arranged around a just-set egg, with garlic, teasingly spicy Calabrian chile paste, and yes, plenty of mozzarella underneath. So lemon-juicy! So tangy and fresh! If you like the pizza+salad combo, this is the one for you. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77851\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/2014-02-05_DSC8073.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/2014-02-05_DSC8073.jpg\" alt=\"Rocket Man pizza. Photo: Naomi Fiss\" width=\"1000\" height=\"773\" class=\"size-full wp-image-77851\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Rocket Man pizza.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The local-love evinced in the beer and wine list (Proving Ground IPA from \u003ca href=\"http://www.magnoliapub.com/\">Magnolia Brewing\u003c/a> in SF; Burning Oak Black Lager and Ol' Brick Bitter from Oakland's \u003ca href=\"http://www.lindenbeer.com/\">Linden Street Brewery\u003c/a>; Cali Coast Kolsch from \u003ca href=\"http://calicraft.com/\">Calicraft\u003c/a> in Walnut Creek; \u003ca href=\"https://donkeyandgoat.com/\">Donkey & Goat\u003c/a> Red Blend from Berkeley) shows up in the \u003cstrong>Yo Vinny!\u003c/strong>, PizzaHacker's version of a classic sausage-peppers-and-onion pie. The West Coat locavore version? Sausage from \u003ca href=\"http://4505meats.com/\">4505 Meats\u003c/a>, bright sweet-tart rings of pickled goat horn peppers from \u003ca href=\"http://www.mamalils.com/\">Mama Lil's\u003c/a> in Seattle, and marinated onions, plus the usual tomato and cheese. For this skinny-jean crowd, Vinny is as burly (and manly) as it gets.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77837\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/2014-02-05_DSC7957.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/2014-02-05_DSC7957.jpg\" alt=\"Yo Vinny! pizza. Photo: Naomi Fiss\" width=\"1000\" height=\"714\" class=\"size-full wp-image-77837\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Yo Vinny! pizza.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>We haven't tried the \u003cstrong>Winter Pie\u003c/strong> (marinated Brussels sprouts, \u003ca href=\"http://4505meats.com/\">4505 bacon\u003c/a>, garlic, Calabrian chile paste) or the \u003cstrong>Crowd Pleaser\u003c/strong> (radicchio, dried Black Mission figs, \u003ca href=\"https://www.pointreyescheese.com/\">Point Reyes Blue cheese\u003c/a>, balsamic, mozzarella, rosemary), but you should, even if they sound more like salads than pizzas. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77852\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/2014-02-05_DSC8085.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/2014-02-05_DSC8085.jpg\" alt=\" PizzaHacker owner Jeff Krupman. \" width=\"1000\" height=\"773\" class=\"size-full wp-image-77852\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">PizzaHacker owner Jeff Krupman.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>When owner Jeff Krupman moved to San Francisco in 1994, there wasn't much pizza around, especially outside of North Beach. He started making pizzas in his home kitchen, then in a modified grill in his backyard, first to recreate the cracker-crusted, provolone-and-pepperoni style of his Ohio youth, then to emulate the sublime Neapolitan pies tasted on a mind-expanding trip to Italy. Pop-ups in Precita Park, a months-long stint feeding SoMa bar crowds from his sidewalk \"FrankenWeber\" grill-turned-oven, years in start-ups that never quite became the next big thing, and now, with advice and investors, Krupman's a restaurant owner, already carving out a friendly hangout after less than two months in business. Welcome to the neighborhood, hacker. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77854\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/2014-02-05_DSC7910.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/2014-02-05_DSC7910-683x1024.jpg\" alt=\"PizzaHacker on Mission Street. Photo: Naomi Fiss\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-large wp-image-77854\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">PizzaHacker on Mission Street.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Information:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.thepizzahacker.com\">\u003cstrong>PizzaHacker\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nAddress: \u003ca href=\"http://goo.gl/dVun6i\">Map\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n3299 Mission St\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94110\u003cbr>\nHours: Wed-Sat, 5-10pm, Sun 1-9pm\u003cbr>\n(415) 874-5585\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/pages/PizzaHacker/105536292819459\">PizzaHacker\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/pizzahacker\">@pizzahacker\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n",
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"excerpt": "Does the Mission really need another pizza joint? Stephanie Rosenbaum checks in at the new PizzaHacker to find out. ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77850\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/2014-02-05_DSC8053.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/2014-02-05_DSC8053.jpg\" alt=\"Top Shelf Marg pizza at PizzaHacker. Photo: Naomi Fiss\" width=\"1000\" height=\"714\" class=\"size-full wp-image-77850\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Top Shelf Marg pizza at PizzaHacker.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>All Photos by\u003c/em> \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/naomifliss/\">\u003cem>Naomi Fiss\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Much like our insatiable love for coffee shops, bakeries, ramen joints, and taquerias, there seems to be no limit to the number of pizzerias San Franciscans will support. Does the Mission/Bernal area really need another place to get a pie? Beretta, Flour and Water, Little Star, Arizmendi's, Pauline's, Arinell's, Zante's, Pizzeria Delfina, Bernal Heights Pizza, Pizza Express, and La Nebbia, Haystack, and Paxti's over in Noe Valley: still not enough to sate your chewy dough n' cheese cravings? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Apparently not, judging by the happy crowds scarfing up fresh-from-the-oven pies at \u003ca href=\"http://www.thepizzahacker.com\">PizzaHacker\u003c/a>, Mission Street's latest pizza destination. Located on Mission St. near 29th St., in the former Inka's space, PizzaHacker is the brick-and-mortar incarnation of the pop-up venture that owner Jeff Krupman started in 2009. Strings of multi-colored Edison bulbs loop above bright-orange metal picnic tables, making what was probably once a bank feel like a beer garden. Painted chalkboard walls serve as outlets for free expression by the chalk-scrawling youngsters who create masterpieces while waiting for the dough-slingers in the open kitchen to send out their pizzas. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77834\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/2014-02-05_DSC7929.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/2014-02-05_DSC7929.jpg\" alt=\"PizzaHacker interior. Photo: Naomi Fiss\" width=\"1000\" height=\"664\" class=\"size-full wp-image-77834\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">PizzaHacker interior.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>One thing to note: all those hard surfaces means the place gets loud, loud, loud, especially when the under-10 set's in the house. But those skinny communal tables don't encourage lingering; the modus operandi is get your pizza, share a salad, down a beer or two and head out, for bar-hopping or bedtime. The staff is smiling and sweet, and the food shows up fast, another reason it's been instantly popular with parents in the nabe. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77835\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/2014-02-05_DSC7933.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/2014-02-05_DSC7933.jpg\" alt=\"PizzaHacker chalkboard pizza menu. Photo: Naomi Fiss\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-77835\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">PizzaHacker chalkboard pizza menu.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The choices are relaxingly few: five pies ($15), one salad ($8), four local beers on tap ($5), a red wine, a white wine ($8/glass), and four bottled soft drinks ($3). \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77839\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/2014-02-05_DSC7963.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/2014-02-05_DSC7963.jpg\" alt=\"PizzaHacker's Chalkboard menu is kid-friendly. Photo: Naomi Fiss\" width=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-77839\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">PizzaHacker's Chalkboard menu is kid-friendly.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Loaded with chickpeas, kidney beans, grated eggs, carrots, and cucumbers, and lathered up with a slightly sweet poppyseed dressing, \u003cstrong>The Intermezzo salad\u003c/strong> is a big-bowl throwback to the generous hippie salads dished out at the much-missed Cafe Intermezzo, a longtime Telegraph Avenue staple that burned down in 2012. There may be more raddichio, and fewer sprouts, than in the hippie original, but the generosity of spirit (and portions) is the same; the salad also makes a filling vegetarian option for the gluten-free or cheese-avoident. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77840\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/2014-02-05_DSC7965.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/2014-02-05_DSC7965.jpg\" alt=\"Dough-slinging in the open kitchen. Photo: Naomi Fiss\" width=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-77840\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dough-slinging in the open kitchen.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The basic pie is the \u003cstrong>Top Shelf Marg\u003c/strong>, with tomato sauce made from dry-farmed early girl tomatoes, a stretchy, snuggly blanket of house-made mozzarella, plus some leaves of basil here and there. It's heavier on the cheese than, say, the austere, puffy-crusted pies of \u003ca href=\"http://www.unapizza.com/\">Una Pizza Napoletana\u003c/a>, where crust is all and the stingy toppings feel meted out for the lesser enjoyment of those who can't yet subsist on flour and water alone. Here, the cheese is sweet and snow-white, unctuously layered over a light, well-proofed crust. A little too much char here and there, yes, a few too many black bubbles indicative of a crust left for just a few seconds too long in the 700-degree heat of the electric pizza ovens. The tomato sauce takes a bit of a back seat, but overall, for those who like their cheese, this is very pleasing (and kid-friendly) pie. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77842\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/2014-02-05_DSC7986.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/2014-02-05_DSC7986.jpg\" alt=\"Preparing Rocket Man pie in the open kitchen. Photo: Naomi Fiss\" width=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-77842\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Preparing Rocket Man pie in the open kitchen.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>On to the rest of the winter menu: \u003cstrong>Rocket Man\u003c/strong> is topped with a lovely, lemony-bright salad of fresh arugula, a fluffy garden arranged around a just-set egg, with garlic, teasingly spicy Calabrian chile paste, and yes, plenty of mozzarella underneath. So lemon-juicy! So tangy and fresh! If you like the pizza+salad combo, this is the one for you. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77851\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/2014-02-05_DSC8073.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/2014-02-05_DSC8073.jpg\" alt=\"Rocket Man pizza. Photo: Naomi Fiss\" width=\"1000\" height=\"773\" class=\"size-full wp-image-77851\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Rocket Man pizza.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The local-love evinced in the beer and wine list (Proving Ground IPA from \u003ca href=\"http://www.magnoliapub.com/\">Magnolia Brewing\u003c/a> in SF; Burning Oak Black Lager and Ol' Brick Bitter from Oakland's \u003ca href=\"http://www.lindenbeer.com/\">Linden Street Brewery\u003c/a>; Cali Coast Kolsch from \u003ca href=\"http://calicraft.com/\">Calicraft\u003c/a> in Walnut Creek; \u003ca href=\"https://donkeyandgoat.com/\">Donkey & Goat\u003c/a> Red Blend from Berkeley) shows up in the \u003cstrong>Yo Vinny!\u003c/strong>, PizzaHacker's version of a classic sausage-peppers-and-onion pie. The West Coat locavore version? Sausage from \u003ca href=\"http://4505meats.com/\">4505 Meats\u003c/a>, bright sweet-tart rings of pickled goat horn peppers from \u003ca href=\"http://www.mamalils.com/\">Mama Lil's\u003c/a> in Seattle, and marinated onions, plus the usual tomato and cheese. For this skinny-jean crowd, Vinny is as burly (and manly) as it gets.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77837\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/2014-02-05_DSC7957.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/2014-02-05_DSC7957.jpg\" alt=\"Yo Vinny! pizza. Photo: Naomi Fiss\" width=\"1000\" height=\"714\" class=\"size-full wp-image-77837\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Yo Vinny! pizza.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>We haven't tried the \u003cstrong>Winter Pie\u003c/strong> (marinated Brussels sprouts, \u003ca href=\"http://4505meats.com/\">4505 bacon\u003c/a>, garlic, Calabrian chile paste) or the \u003cstrong>Crowd Pleaser\u003c/strong> (radicchio, dried Black Mission figs, \u003ca href=\"https://www.pointreyescheese.com/\">Point Reyes Blue cheese\u003c/a>, balsamic, mozzarella, rosemary), but you should, even if they sound more like salads than pizzas. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77852\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/2014-02-05_DSC8085.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/2014-02-05_DSC8085.jpg\" alt=\" PizzaHacker owner Jeff Krupman. \" width=\"1000\" height=\"773\" class=\"size-full wp-image-77852\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">PizzaHacker owner Jeff Krupman.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>When owner Jeff Krupman moved to San Francisco in 1994, there wasn't much pizza around, especially outside of North Beach. He started making pizzas in his home kitchen, then in a modified grill in his backyard, first to recreate the cracker-crusted, provolone-and-pepperoni style of his Ohio youth, then to emulate the sublime Neapolitan pies tasted on a mind-expanding trip to Italy. Pop-ups in Precita Park, a months-long stint feeding SoMa bar crowds from his sidewalk \"FrankenWeber\" grill-turned-oven, years in start-ups that never quite became the next big thing, and now, with advice and investors, Krupman's a restaurant owner, already carving out a friendly hangout after less than two months in business. Welcome to the neighborhood, hacker. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77854\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/2014-02-05_DSC7910.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/2014-02-05_DSC7910-683x1024.jpg\" alt=\"PizzaHacker on Mission Street. Photo: Naomi Fiss\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-large wp-image-77854\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">PizzaHacker on Mission Street.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Information:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.thepizzahacker.com\">\u003cstrong>PizzaHacker\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nAddress: \u003ca href=\"http://goo.gl/dVun6i\">Map\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n3299 Mission St\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94110\u003cbr>\nHours: Wed-Sat, 5-10pm, Sun 1-9pm\u003cbr>\n(415) 874-5585\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/pages/PizzaHacker/105536292819459\">PizzaHacker\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/pizzahacker\">@pizzahacker\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "Merigan Sub Shop: Casual Shop Meets Restaurant-Quality Sandwiches in SoMa",
"title": "Merigan Sub Shop: Casual Shop Meets Restaurant-Quality Sandwiches in SoMa",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77599\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/Merigan-Sign-Meatball.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-77599\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/Merigan-Sign-Meatball.jpg\" alt=\"Merigan Sub Shop in SoMa specializes in high-quality East Coast-style sandwiches. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"774\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Merigan Sub Shop in SoMa specializes in high-quality East Coast-style sandwiches. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Back in November, SF Weekly writer Pete Kane called \u003ca href=\"http://www.merigansubshop.com/\">Merigan Sub Shop\u003c/a>’s sandwiches the \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.sfweekly.com/foodie/2013/11/merigan_is_quite_possibly_the.php\">“most overpriced” in the city\u003c/a>. Citing their then-$17 cheesesteak as an example of the city’s fiendishly quick rise in exclusivity, the story clearly hit a nerve. At some point in between Kane’s story’s publication and this January, prices have dropped a few bucks; and while I didn’t visit the SoMa sandwich joint until recently, I can say that I was happy not to have to break more than a $20 for a sandwich and cookie.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77598\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/Merigan-Menu-Board.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-77598\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/Merigan-Menu-Board.jpg\" alt=\"Merigan’s straightforward menu consists of a mix of classic sandwiches and seasonal specials. All of the pickled sides are made in house. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"506\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Merigan’s straightforward menu consists of a mix of classic sandwiches and seasonal specials. All of the pickled sides are made in house. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Merigan is helmed by Liza Shaw, formerly of \u003ca href=\"http://www.a16sf.com/\">A16\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.acquerello.com/\">Acquerello\u003c/a>. Shaw is known for her pizza and pasta chops, as well as for her passion for whole animal butchery. With a fine-dining background, it could seem a surprise that she’d move on to open a casual sandwich shop. Yet Merigan is only casual in its appearance. As we \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/09/10/chef-liza-shaw-talks-about-her-east-coast-inspired-merigan-sub-shop-opening-soon-in-soma/\">reported last fall\u003c/a>, Shaw carefully sources her protein from Chico’s \u003ca href=\"http://llanoseco.com/\">Llano Seco Rancho\u003c/a>, breaking down the animals herself, and makes everything but the bread in-house. The sandwiches are assembled thoughtfully, with an eye but not strict allegiance to seasonality. (Some subs, like the warm winter veg, change depending on ingredient availability. Others, like the Italian combo, are permanent staples.) Merigan therefore offers a hybrid dining experience, serving high-end, restaurant-quality sandwiches in a purposefully causal atmosphere with a television tuned permanently to sports games.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77597\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/Merigan-Cashier.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-77597\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/Merigan-Cashier.jpg\" alt=\"Merigan sandwiches are available to eat in or to take to-go. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"714\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Merigan sandwiches are available to eat in or to take to-go. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Perhaps this hybridism is the real source of consternation on Kane’s (and, frankly, many other online critics) part. It’s hard to know what to expect from such a restaurant, and our bar for quality and value—sandwiches should be cheap, upscale plated Italian food should be expensive—can easily be skewed. One obviously wouldn’t expect to walk out of A16 dropping less than $40, so paying $15 for a thoughtful sandwich from one of the restaurant’s former chef’s \u003cem>may\u003c/em> not be that ridiculous.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But forget the social argument for now. I visited Merigan for the sandwiches, and sandwiches I will discuss.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Shaw’s menu is divided into hot and cold subs, with a few options for side dishes and two choices of dessert. Most contain a hefty layer of meat with a thinner layer of house condiments and often a thin slice of cheese. Each sub comes on a seeded roll from nearby \u003ca href=\"http://pinkiesbakerysf.com/\">Pinkie’s Bakery\u003c/a>. Hots—pickled hot peppers that taste shockingly like Sriracha—are optional.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77600\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/Turkey-Sub.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-77600\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/Turkey-Sub.jpg\" alt=\"The turkey sub is made with house roasted turkey breast, tomato conserva, provolone, arugula, and dressing. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The turkey sub is made with house roasted turkey breast, tomato conserva, provolone, arugula, and dressing. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Served cold, the turkey sub ($12) is made from poultry roasted and sliced in-house, and dressed with a sweet and tangy tomato conserva, mild provolone cheese, sharp and crunchy pickled onions, peppery arugula, and a scant amount of oil and vinegar dressing. While it’s not going to convert any turkey sandwich haters to white meat lovers, it is a fine example of the form. The turkey is moist, and the condiments sing in harmony. If anything, the sub could use an extra drizzle or two of the dressing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77595\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/Cheesesteak-and-Taffy.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-77595\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/Cheesesteak-and-Taffy.jpg\" alt=\"All of Merigan’s sandwiches, including the cheesesteak, come with a small piece of neon-colored taffy. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"738\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">All of Merigan’s sandwiches, including the cheesesteak, come with a small piece of neon-colored taffy. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The infamous cheesesteak (now $14.50) is far better than I’d predicted given its PR. Expertly sliced steak gets a quick trip on the flattop with thick strips of onion and covered with a demure layer of melted provolone. There’s enough cheese to realize its presence, but not so much to overwhelm the flavor of the meat—indeed, the sub \u003cem>actually\u003c/em> tastes like a steak sandwich instead of melted cheese on a roll studded with chewy strips of mystery meat. Add a drizzle of the hots for a spicy bite and bright contrast to the rich slices of beef.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77596\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/Chocolate-Chip-Cookie.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-77596\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/Chocolate-Chip-Cookie.jpg\" alt=\"The chocolate chip cookie makes a stellar dessert. Caption: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The chocolate chip cookie makes a stellar dessert. Caption: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Still, the best bite of the afternoon goes to the chocolate chip cookie flaked with sea salt ($2.50). Deeply buttery and redolent of caramel-y brown sugar, Merigan’s cookie is studded with generous chunks of chocolate and exhibits that elusive and wonderful crisp-chewy contrast between the golden outer edges and soft center. It is the chocolate chip cookie I aspire to make.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Had I not needed to hop in the car and drive from one end of the bay to the other, I surely would have sampled one of the two draft wines ($8 each for Unti Rosso 2012 and Giordnata ‘Il Campo’ Blanco 2012) or a beer from their short, food-friendly list. Happy hour ($5 drafts) is Monday-Saturday from 4-7pm, perfect for Giants game days come summer. For teetotalers, Merigan has a well-curated selection of sodas like Cheerwine, Mexican Coke, and Abita Root Beer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the end, I probably won’t return to Merigan on a regular basis—except, perhaps, for a cookie and a beer. The subs are enjoyable, and I appreciate the careful sourcing and production of the ingredients. But if I made the place a lunchtime habit, I’d quickly run out of pocket change.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Information\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.merigansubshop.com/\">Merigan Sub Shop\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nAddress: \u003ca href=\"http://goo.gl/CMtlAI\">Map\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n636 2nd Street\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94107\u003cbr>\nPhone: 415.536.2991\u003cbr>\nHours: Mon-Sat 10am-7pm (Happy Hour Mon-Sat 4-7pm)\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/MeriganSubShop\">Merigan Sub Shop\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MeriganSubShop\">@MeriganSubShop\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Merigan Sub Shop, the new sandwich joint helmed by A16's Liza Shaw, offers San Franciscans a taste of elevated East Coast-style subs. The price of the food has been a huge sticking point in the restaurant's first few months of opening. Are they worth the expense? Kate Williams checks it out.",
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"description": "Merigan Sub Shop, the new sandwich joint helmed by A16's Liza Shaw, offers San Franciscans a taste of elevated East Coast-style subs. The price of the food has been a huge sticking point in the restaurant's first few months of opening. Are they worth the expense? Kate Williams checks it out.",
"title": "Merigan Sub Shop: Casual Shop Meets Restaurant-Quality Sandwiches in SoMa | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77599\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/Merigan-Sign-Meatball.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-77599\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/Merigan-Sign-Meatball.jpg\" alt=\"Merigan Sub Shop in SoMa specializes in high-quality East Coast-style sandwiches. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"774\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Merigan Sub Shop in SoMa specializes in high-quality East Coast-style sandwiches. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Back in November, SF Weekly writer Pete Kane called \u003ca href=\"http://www.merigansubshop.com/\">Merigan Sub Shop\u003c/a>’s sandwiches the \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.sfweekly.com/foodie/2013/11/merigan_is_quite_possibly_the.php\">“most overpriced” in the city\u003c/a>. Citing their then-$17 cheesesteak as an example of the city’s fiendishly quick rise in exclusivity, the story clearly hit a nerve. At some point in between Kane’s story’s publication and this January, prices have dropped a few bucks; and while I didn’t visit the SoMa sandwich joint until recently, I can say that I was happy not to have to break more than a $20 for a sandwich and cookie.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77598\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/Merigan-Menu-Board.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-77598\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/Merigan-Menu-Board.jpg\" alt=\"Merigan’s straightforward menu consists of a mix of classic sandwiches and seasonal specials. All of the pickled sides are made in house. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"506\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Merigan’s straightforward menu consists of a mix of classic sandwiches and seasonal specials. All of the pickled sides are made in house. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Merigan is helmed by Liza Shaw, formerly of \u003ca href=\"http://www.a16sf.com/\">A16\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.acquerello.com/\">Acquerello\u003c/a>. Shaw is known for her pizza and pasta chops, as well as for her passion for whole animal butchery. With a fine-dining background, it could seem a surprise that she’d move on to open a casual sandwich shop. Yet Merigan is only casual in its appearance. As we \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/09/10/chef-liza-shaw-talks-about-her-east-coast-inspired-merigan-sub-shop-opening-soon-in-soma/\">reported last fall\u003c/a>, Shaw carefully sources her protein from Chico’s \u003ca href=\"http://llanoseco.com/\">Llano Seco Rancho\u003c/a>, breaking down the animals herself, and makes everything but the bread in-house. The sandwiches are assembled thoughtfully, with an eye but not strict allegiance to seasonality. (Some subs, like the warm winter veg, change depending on ingredient availability. Others, like the Italian combo, are permanent staples.) Merigan therefore offers a hybrid dining experience, serving high-end, restaurant-quality sandwiches in a purposefully causal atmosphere with a television tuned permanently to sports games.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77597\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/Merigan-Cashier.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-77597\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/Merigan-Cashier.jpg\" alt=\"Merigan sandwiches are available to eat in or to take to-go. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"714\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Merigan sandwiches are available to eat in or to take to-go. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Perhaps this hybridism is the real source of consternation on Kane’s (and, frankly, many other online critics) part. It’s hard to know what to expect from such a restaurant, and our bar for quality and value—sandwiches should be cheap, upscale plated Italian food should be expensive—can easily be skewed. One obviously wouldn’t expect to walk out of A16 dropping less than $40, so paying $15 for a thoughtful sandwich from one of the restaurant’s former chef’s \u003cem>may\u003c/em> not be that ridiculous.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But forget the social argument for now. I visited Merigan for the sandwiches, and sandwiches I will discuss.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Shaw’s menu is divided into hot and cold subs, with a few options for side dishes and two choices of dessert. Most contain a hefty layer of meat with a thinner layer of house condiments and often a thin slice of cheese. Each sub comes on a seeded roll from nearby \u003ca href=\"http://pinkiesbakerysf.com/\">Pinkie’s Bakery\u003c/a>. Hots—pickled hot peppers that taste shockingly like Sriracha—are optional.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77600\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/Turkey-Sub.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-77600\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/Turkey-Sub.jpg\" alt=\"The turkey sub is made with house roasted turkey breast, tomato conserva, provolone, arugula, and dressing. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The turkey sub is made with house roasted turkey breast, tomato conserva, provolone, arugula, and dressing. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Served cold, the turkey sub ($12) is made from poultry roasted and sliced in-house, and dressed with a sweet and tangy tomato conserva, mild provolone cheese, sharp and crunchy pickled onions, peppery arugula, and a scant amount of oil and vinegar dressing. While it’s not going to convert any turkey sandwich haters to white meat lovers, it is a fine example of the form. The turkey is moist, and the condiments sing in harmony. If anything, the sub could use an extra drizzle or two of the dressing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77595\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/Cheesesteak-and-Taffy.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-77595\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/Cheesesteak-and-Taffy.jpg\" alt=\"All of Merigan’s sandwiches, including the cheesesteak, come with a small piece of neon-colored taffy. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"738\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">All of Merigan’s sandwiches, including the cheesesteak, come with a small piece of neon-colored taffy. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The infamous cheesesteak (now $14.50) is far better than I’d predicted given its PR. Expertly sliced steak gets a quick trip on the flattop with thick strips of onion and covered with a demure layer of melted provolone. There’s enough cheese to realize its presence, but not so much to overwhelm the flavor of the meat—indeed, the sub \u003cem>actually\u003c/em> tastes like a steak sandwich instead of melted cheese on a roll studded with chewy strips of mystery meat. Add a drizzle of the hots for a spicy bite and bright contrast to the rich slices of beef.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77596\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/Chocolate-Chip-Cookie.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-77596\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/Chocolate-Chip-Cookie.jpg\" alt=\"The chocolate chip cookie makes a stellar dessert. Caption: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The chocolate chip cookie makes a stellar dessert. Caption: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Still, the best bite of the afternoon goes to the chocolate chip cookie flaked with sea salt ($2.50). Deeply buttery and redolent of caramel-y brown sugar, Merigan’s cookie is studded with generous chunks of chocolate and exhibits that elusive and wonderful crisp-chewy contrast between the golden outer edges and soft center. It is the chocolate chip cookie I aspire to make.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Had I not needed to hop in the car and drive from one end of the bay to the other, I surely would have sampled one of the two draft wines ($8 each for Unti Rosso 2012 and Giordnata ‘Il Campo’ Blanco 2012) or a beer from their short, food-friendly list. Happy hour ($5 drafts) is Monday-Saturday from 4-7pm, perfect for Giants game days come summer. For teetotalers, Merigan has a well-curated selection of sodas like Cheerwine, Mexican Coke, and Abita Root Beer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the end, I probably won’t return to Merigan on a regular basis—except, perhaps, for a cookie and a beer. The subs are enjoyable, and I appreciate the careful sourcing and production of the ingredients. But if I made the place a lunchtime habit, I’d quickly run out of pocket change.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Information\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.merigansubshop.com/\">Merigan Sub Shop\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nAddress: \u003ca href=\"http://goo.gl/CMtlAI\">Map\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n636 2nd Street\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94107\u003cbr>\nPhone: 415.536.2991\u003cbr>\nHours: Mon-Sat 10am-7pm (Happy Hour Mon-Sat 4-7pm)\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/MeriganSubShop\">Merigan Sub Shop\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MeriganSubShop\">@MeriganSubShop\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "5 Bites: Delightful Bay Area Dim Sum",
"title": "5 Bites: Delightful Bay Area Dim Sum",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77219\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/01/joyluck15.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/01/joyluck15-1024x575.jpg\" alt=\"Joy Luck Palace\" width=\"1024\" height=\"575\" class=\"size-large wp-image-77219\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dim Sum at Joy Luck Palace\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Perhaps you're a dim sum disciple of the venerable \u003ca href=\"http://www.yanksing.com/home.php\" target=\"_blank\">Yank Sing \u003c/a> or other haunts around San Francisco, but there's plenty of other places around the Bay Area to snack on this delightful Chinese fare. While it's hard to narrow down the list to just five, the following restaurants are perennial favorites that I'm willing to brave the crowds for on Sunday mornings -- especially with the Lunar New Year right around the corner (January 31). Let us know where you go for your dumpling fix in the comments.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[gallery type=\"slideshow\" link=\"none\" size=\"full\" ids=\"76991,76994,76990,76987,76988,76989,76992,76995,76997,76996\"]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Koi Palace in Daly City is the flagship location of this mini-dim sum empire, but the Dublin location in the Ulferts Center matches its predecessor in quality. Take the escalator up to the second level of the mall, walk through the glowing Moon Gate and if you're lucky, you won't have to wait too long for a seat in one of their spacious dining rooms. Even on a weekday, bow-tied waiters and servers decked out in black-and-red visors briskly weave through the tables with trays and carts attending to the busy lunch rush as quickly as they can. Their extensive colorful menu offers a variety of dishes; highlights include the lamb buns that arrive sizzling over a bed of onions and scallions in a clay pot; stir-fried, garlicky green beans with tender morsels of pork and chili pepper; succulent, deep-fried pork ribs glazed with maple butter and served in a large coffee mug over a thick, sweet chocolaty-espresso sauce; spinach-scallop dumplings swimming in a spicy Sichuan sauce.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://www.koipalace.com\" target=\"_blank\">Koi Palace\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n4288 Dublin Blvd. (Dublin Ulferts Center) [\u003ca href=\"http://goo.gl/2UVkrs\" target=\"_blank\">Map\u003c/a>]\u003cbr>\nDublin, CA 94568\u003cbr>\nPh: (925) 833-9090\u003cbr>\nHours: Mon-Fri 11am-3pm; Mon-Thu., Sun 5-9:30pm; Fri-Sat 5-10pm; Sat 10am-3:30pm; Sun 9:30am-3:30pm\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/pages/Koi-Garden/153819508020427?rf=117776788284305\" target=\"_blank\">Koi Palace\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nPrice range: $$ Entrees ($11-$17)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[gallery type=\"slideshow\" link=\"none\" size=\"full\" ids=\"76841,76842,76845,76848,76854,76846,76849,76850,76851,76852\"]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you're headed to the Pacific East Mall to stock up on Asian groceries at Ranch Market 99, be sure to stop by its next door neighbor: Asian Pearl Seafood Restaurant. While there's usually a bit of a wait during prime time hours on weekends, they'll call out your number if you're inclined to wander off to the nearby Kingstone Books store that sells an array of Totoro dolls and Hello Kitty backpacks. Then get ready to enter a \"culinary wonderland\" (their motto emblazoned on their menu) as you walk past the tanks filled with live seafood. You can order dim sum everyday and not just for brunch; they now serve it at all hours. Items range between depending on the size of the dish. Try their buttery soft baked BBQ pork buns, sticky rice with lotus leaves that's flavored with pork, mushrooms and other savory ingredients, fried turnip cakes flecked with fatty bits of Chinese sausage and steamed scallop and shrimp dumplings.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://asianpearl.yolasite.com/\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cstrong>Asian Pearl Seafood Restaurant\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n3288 Pierce St. (Pacific East Mall) [\u003ca href=\"http://goo.gl/2CKtdr\" target=\"_blank\">Map\u003c/a>]\u003cbr>\nRichmond, CA 94804\u003cbr>\nPh: (510) 526-6800\u003cbr>\nHours: Mon-Fri 11am-2:30pm; Mon-Sun 5-10pm; Sat-Sun 10am-2:30pm\u003cbr>\nPrice range: $$ Entrees ($11-$17)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[gallery type=\"slideshow\" link=\"none\" size=\"full\" ids=\"76753,76754,76755,76756,76757,76758,76759,76760,76761,76762\"]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Whenever I tell friends that you can order delicious dim sum at the San Francisco or Berkeley locations of the Imperial Tea Court, they're always surprised. Despite the fact that they've been serving dim sum, hand-pulled noodles and other entrees produced with locally-sourced, organic ingredients for several years (\u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dim_sum\" target=\"_blank\">and that tea and dim sum go hand-in hand\u003c/a>), the Imperial Tea Court doesn't seem to register on the local foodie radar when it comes to dumplings or fried turnip cakes. But the Berkeley spot -- perched above the gourmet food complex \u003ca href=\"http://epicuriousgarden.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Epicurious Garden\u003c/a> -- is a quiet sanctuary with an outdoor patio that's perfect for sampling their Dragon Well dumplings, pumpkin or pork shao mai or green onion pancakes. For a tasting platter, try the dim sum sampler with vegetarian pot stickers, pork shao mai, shrimp dumplings made with Yin Hao jasmine green tea and steamed buns.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://www.imperialtea.com\" target=\"_blank\">Imperial Tea Court\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1511 Shattuck Ave. [\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/maps/4YEOf\" target=\"_blank\">Map\u003c/a>]\u003cbr>\nBerkeley, CA 94709\u003cbr>\nPh: (510) 540-8888\u003cbr>\nHours: Mon-Sat 11am-9pm; Sun 11am-8pm\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/ImperialTeaNews\" target=\"_blank\">Imperial Tea Court\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/itcberkeley\" target=\"_blank\">@itcberkeley\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nPrice range: $$ Entrees ($11-$17)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[gallery type=\"slideshow\" link=\"none\" size=\"full\" ids=\"76877,76876,76874,76873,76878,76879,76880,76881,76882,76883,76884,76885,76886\"]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you can find the time to visit East Ocean Seafood Restaurant during the week, you won't be stuck waiting in a long line for a table. They serve dim sum 7 days a week from 10AM-2:30PM (although kitchen items aren't available until 11AM.) You can even select items from the smattering of servers carrying trays and pushing around carts. Otherwise, be prepared to face the throngs that fill the sidewalk out front on weekends. I'm partial to the steamed Dungeness crab dumplings, vegetarian rice noodles wrapped around a generous assortment of sauteed mushrooms, the fried sweet durian puffs stuffed with a tangy custard in a warm, crispy croissant-like pastry and the pork shanghai dumplings flavored with a dash of soup.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://www.eastoceanseafoodrestaurant.com/\" target=\"_blank\">East Ocean Seafood Restaurant\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1713 Webster St. [\u003ca href=\"http://goo.gl/H39A6C\" target=\"_blank\">Map\u003c/a>]\u003cbr>\nAlameda, CA 94501\u003cbr>\nPh: (510) 865-3381\u003cbr>\nHours: Mon-Sun 10am-2:30pm\u003cbr>\nMon-Sun 5pm-9:30pm\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/pages/East-Ocean-Seafood-Restaurant/109576965746129\" target=\"_blank\">East Ocean Seafood Restaurant\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nPrice range: $$ Entrees ($11-$17)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[gallery type=\"slideshow\" link=\"none\" size=\"full\" ids=\"77202,77204,77201,77211,77212,77200,77210,77209,77208,77206,77196,77198,77197\"]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On a dim sum-themed bike ride several years ago, \u003ca href=\"http://www.flickr.com/photos/plattyjo/sets/72157623808172573/with/4552724313/\" target=\"_blank\">some cycling friends and I\u003c/a> ventured down the peninsula for an annual bike swap that takes place in Cupertino. Per the recommendations of the dim sum aficionados in our group, we stopped by the Joy Luck Palace afterwards for lunch. It's also located within a shopping center -- Cupertino Village -- and a welcoming wooden archway gives way to their vast main dining space. If you decide to come on a Sunday, be ready to take a number and wait at least a half-hour in the small foyer or courtyard. But once you're seated, servers are quickly making the rounds, so it'll be no time before you've got a bamboo steamer basket of fresh dumplings on your table. Select kitchen items, like sauteed green beans with tofu are spooned hot from a clay pot atop one of the roving carts. Sticky rice wrapped in a lotus leaf is filled with juicy roast pork, sausage and creamy mashed mung beans, steamed beef balls have a sweet, spongy texture and their classic pork dumplings are topped with fish roe. The golden, baked sweet buns with a coconut-honey filling are a delicious dessert.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/joy-luck-palace-cupertino\" target=\"_blank\">Joy Luck Palace\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n10911 N Wolfe Rd. [\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/maps/6NvAP\" target=\"_blank\">Map\u003c/a>]\u003cbr>\nCupertino, CA 95014\u003cbr>\nPh: (408) 255-6988\u003cbr>\nHours: Mon-Sun 11am-2:30pm\u003cbr>\nMon-Sun 5:30pm-9:30pm\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/pages/Joy-Luck-Palace/153149248086578\" target=\"_blank\">Joy Luck Palace\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nPrice range: $$ Entrees ($11-$17)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>All photos by \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/jennyoh/\">Jenny Oh\u003c/a>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Perhaps you're a dim sum disciple of the venerable Yank Sing located in downtown San Francisco, but there's plenty of other places in the Bay Area to snack on this delightful Chinese fare. ",
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"description": "Perhaps you're a dim sum disciple of the venerable Yank Sing located in downtown San Francisco, but there's plenty of other places in the Bay Area to snack on this delightful Chinese fare. ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77219\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/01/joyluck15.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/01/joyluck15-1024x575.jpg\" alt=\"Joy Luck Palace\" width=\"1024\" height=\"575\" class=\"size-large wp-image-77219\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dim Sum at Joy Luck Palace\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Perhaps you're a dim sum disciple of the venerable \u003ca href=\"http://www.yanksing.com/home.php\" target=\"_blank\">Yank Sing \u003c/a> or other haunts around San Francisco, but there's plenty of other places around the Bay Area to snack on this delightful Chinese fare. While it's hard to narrow down the list to just five, the following restaurants are perennial favorites that I'm willing to brave the crowds for on Sunday mornings -- especially with the Lunar New Year right around the corner (January 31). Let us know where you go for your dumpling fix in the comments.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Koi Palace in Daly City is the flagship location of this mini-dim sum empire, but the Dublin location in the Ulferts Center matches its predecessor in quality. Take the escalator up to the second level of the mall, walk through the glowing Moon Gate and if you're lucky, you won't have to wait too long for a seat in one of their spacious dining rooms. Even on a weekday, bow-tied waiters and servers decked out in black-and-red visors briskly weave through the tables with trays and carts attending to the busy lunch rush as quickly as they can. Their extensive colorful menu offers a variety of dishes; highlights include the lamb buns that arrive sizzling over a bed of onions and scallions in a clay pot; stir-fried, garlicky green beans with tender morsels of pork and chili pepper; succulent, deep-fried pork ribs glazed with maple butter and served in a large coffee mug over a thick, sweet chocolaty-espresso sauce; spinach-scallop dumplings swimming in a spicy Sichuan sauce.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://www.koipalace.com\" target=\"_blank\">Koi Palace\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n4288 Dublin Blvd. (Dublin Ulferts Center) [\u003ca href=\"http://goo.gl/2UVkrs\" target=\"_blank\">Map\u003c/a>]\u003cbr>\nDublin, CA 94568\u003cbr>\nPh: (925) 833-9090\u003cbr>\nHours: Mon-Fri 11am-3pm; Mon-Thu., Sun 5-9:30pm; Fri-Sat 5-10pm; Sat 10am-3:30pm; Sun 9:30am-3:30pm\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/pages/Koi-Garden/153819508020427?rf=117776788284305\" target=\"_blank\">Koi Palace\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nPrice range: $$ Entrees ($11-$17)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you're headed to the Pacific East Mall to stock up on Asian groceries at Ranch Market 99, be sure to stop by its next door neighbor: Asian Pearl Seafood Restaurant. While there's usually a bit of a wait during prime time hours on weekends, they'll call out your number if you're inclined to wander off to the nearby Kingstone Books store that sells an array of Totoro dolls and Hello Kitty backpacks. Then get ready to enter a \"culinary wonderland\" (their motto emblazoned on their menu) as you walk past the tanks filled with live seafood. You can order dim sum everyday and not just for brunch; they now serve it at all hours. Items range between depending on the size of the dish. Try their buttery soft baked BBQ pork buns, sticky rice with lotus leaves that's flavored with pork, mushrooms and other savory ingredients, fried turnip cakes flecked with fatty bits of Chinese sausage and steamed scallop and shrimp dumplings.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://asianpearl.yolasite.com/\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cstrong>Asian Pearl Seafood Restaurant\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n3288 Pierce St. (Pacific East Mall) [\u003ca href=\"http://goo.gl/2CKtdr\" target=\"_blank\">Map\u003c/a>]\u003cbr>\nRichmond, CA 94804\u003cbr>\nPh: (510) 526-6800\u003cbr>\nHours: Mon-Fri 11am-2:30pm; Mon-Sun 5-10pm; Sat-Sun 10am-2:30pm\u003cbr>\nPrice range: $$ Entrees ($11-$17)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Whenever I tell friends that you can order delicious dim sum at the San Francisco or Berkeley locations of the Imperial Tea Court, they're always surprised. Despite the fact that they've been serving dim sum, hand-pulled noodles and other entrees produced with locally-sourced, organic ingredients for several years (\u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dim_sum\" target=\"_blank\">and that tea and dim sum go hand-in hand\u003c/a>), the Imperial Tea Court doesn't seem to register on the local foodie radar when it comes to dumplings or fried turnip cakes. But the Berkeley spot -- perched above the gourmet food complex \u003ca href=\"http://epicuriousgarden.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Epicurious Garden\u003c/a> -- is a quiet sanctuary with an outdoor patio that's perfect for sampling their Dragon Well dumplings, pumpkin or pork shao mai or green onion pancakes. For a tasting platter, try the dim sum sampler with vegetarian pot stickers, pork shao mai, shrimp dumplings made with Yin Hao jasmine green tea and steamed buns.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://www.imperialtea.com\" target=\"_blank\">Imperial Tea Court\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1511 Shattuck Ave. [\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/maps/4YEOf\" target=\"_blank\">Map\u003c/a>]\u003cbr>\nBerkeley, CA 94709\u003cbr>\nPh: (510) 540-8888\u003cbr>\nHours: Mon-Sat 11am-9pm; Sun 11am-8pm\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/ImperialTeaNews\" target=\"_blank\">Imperial Tea Court\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/itcberkeley\" target=\"_blank\">@itcberkeley\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nPrice range: $$ Entrees ($11-$17)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you can find the time to visit East Ocean Seafood Restaurant during the week, you won't be stuck waiting in a long line for a table. They serve dim sum 7 days a week from 10AM-2:30PM (although kitchen items aren't available until 11AM.) You can even select items from the smattering of servers carrying trays and pushing around carts. Otherwise, be prepared to face the throngs that fill the sidewalk out front on weekends. I'm partial to the steamed Dungeness crab dumplings, vegetarian rice noodles wrapped around a generous assortment of sauteed mushrooms, the fried sweet durian puffs stuffed with a tangy custard in a warm, crispy croissant-like pastry and the pork shanghai dumplings flavored with a dash of soup.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://www.eastoceanseafoodrestaurant.com/\" target=\"_blank\">East Ocean Seafood Restaurant\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1713 Webster St. [\u003ca href=\"http://goo.gl/H39A6C\" target=\"_blank\">Map\u003c/a>]\u003cbr>\nAlameda, CA 94501\u003cbr>\nPh: (510) 865-3381\u003cbr>\nHours: Mon-Sun 10am-2:30pm\u003cbr>\nMon-Sun 5pm-9:30pm\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/pages/East-Ocean-Seafood-Restaurant/109576965746129\" target=\"_blank\">East Ocean Seafood Restaurant\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nPrice range: $$ Entrees ($11-$17)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On a dim sum-themed bike ride several years ago, \u003ca href=\"http://www.flickr.com/photos/plattyjo/sets/72157623808172573/with/4552724313/\" target=\"_blank\">some cycling friends and I\u003c/a> ventured down the peninsula for an annual bike swap that takes place in Cupertino. Per the recommendations of the dim sum aficionados in our group, we stopped by the Joy Luck Palace afterwards for lunch. It's also located within a shopping center -- Cupertino Village -- and a welcoming wooden archway gives way to their vast main dining space. If you decide to come on a Sunday, be ready to take a number and wait at least a half-hour in the small foyer or courtyard. But once you're seated, servers are quickly making the rounds, so it'll be no time before you've got a bamboo steamer basket of fresh dumplings on your table. Select kitchen items, like sauteed green beans with tofu are spooned hot from a clay pot atop one of the roving carts. Sticky rice wrapped in a lotus leaf is filled with juicy roast pork, sausage and creamy mashed mung beans, steamed beef balls have a sweet, spongy texture and their classic pork dumplings are topped with fish roe. The golden, baked sweet buns with a coconut-honey filling are a delicious dessert.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/joy-luck-palace-cupertino\" target=\"_blank\">Joy Luck Palace\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n10911 N Wolfe Rd. [\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/maps/6NvAP\" target=\"_blank\">Map\u003c/a>]\u003cbr>\nCupertino, CA 95014\u003cbr>\nPh: (408) 255-6988\u003cbr>\nHours: Mon-Sun 11am-2:30pm\u003cbr>\nMon-Sun 5:30pm-9:30pm\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/pages/Joy-Luck-Palace/153149248086578\" target=\"_blank\">Joy Luck Palace\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nPrice range: $$ Entrees ($11-$17)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "Tosca Cafe: The Revamped North Beach Classic Serves Excellent Italian Fare, For a Price",
"title": "Tosca Cafe: The Revamped North Beach Classic Serves Excellent Italian Fare, For a Price",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_76598\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 450px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/01/tosca-outside-new.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/01/tosca-outside-new.jpg\" alt=\"Tosca Cafe reopened this fall after being bought by New York’s April Bloomfield. They kept the neon sign. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"450\" class=\"size-full wp-image-76598\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tosca Cafe reopened this fall after being bought by New York’s April Bloomfield. They kept the neon sign. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>I never set foot in the old \u003ca href=\"http://toscacafesf.com/\">Tosca Cafe\u003c/a> in North Beach. The name never popped up in the first few months I moved to the Bay; these days, dives (however famous) don’t tend to enter a list of must-see bars for city newbies unless they’re in the Mission. The name didn’t show up on my radar until the news last January that the infamous bar had been bought by \u003ca href=\"http://www.aprilbloomfield.com/\">April Bloomfield\u003c/a>, the famously British, offal-centric New York chef, along with her business partner \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/Kennewyork\">Ken Friedman\u003c/a>. By then, of course, the news was fraught with concern about the Manhattan-ification of San Francisco and the death of neighborhood institutions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_76600\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/01/Door-interior-new.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/01/Door-interior-new.jpg\" alt=\"Tosca fills up early, even on a Sunday night. Luckily, the full dinner menu is available at the bar. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"633\" class=\"size-full wp-image-76600\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tosca fills up early, even on a Sunday night. Luckily, the full dinner menu is available at the bar. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>I was just excited to have the opportunity to taste Bloomfield’s cooking. I’ve also never dined at any of her east coast outposts. Pictures and stories of her bombastically meaty dishes have taunted me for years. Finally, time and place aligned. Tosca is only a short BART ride away. I can go whenever I’d like—or else, as often as my wallet allows.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_76583\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/01/Giardiniera-new.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/01/Giardiniera-new.jpg\" alt=\"Tosca's menu is small, well-crafted, and expensive. Their $5 pickled giardiniera totals only a few tasty bites. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"751\" class=\"size-full wp-image-76583\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tosca's menu is small, well-crafted, and expensive. Their $5 pickled giardiniera totals only a few tasty bites. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>For a bar-turned-restaurant with no reservations and a short, small-plates-focused menu, Tosca is very expensive. You’ll need to shell out at least $30 for one of the three entrees (and $42 for half a chicken). Putting together a meal of a couple of more diminutive dishes will easily top that. Cocktails, including their spiked house cappuccino served out of their gorgeous antique espresso machine, are a cool $12. Beer isn’t much cheaper, and wines (mostly old world) run on the high end as well.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_76584\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/01/Lumaconi-new.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/01/Lumaconi-new.jpg\" alt=\"Lumaconi with speck, puntarelle, and lemon breadcrumbs is one of three simple pasta dishes on Tosca’s menu. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"748\" class=\"size-full wp-image-76584\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Lumaconi with speck, puntarelle, and lemon breadcrumbs is one of three simple pasta dishes on Tosca’s menu. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Is it worth the cost, you ask? Those $12 cocktails? Superbly crafted, gimmick-free classics by Bourbon and Branch alum \u003ca href=\"http://sf.eater.com/archives/2013/09/30/isaac_shumway_spills_details_on_tosca_cafes_bar_revamp.php\">Isaac Shumway\u003c/a>. The miniscule, five dollar saucer of warm marinated olives? Redolent of anise, studded with braised fennel, and compulsively eatable. Pickled giardiniera (also $5) is fresh and light, with a pleasant pucker.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Roasted Tokyo turnips ($7), greens attached, tossed with garlic, marjoram, and chili were a runaway hit. The sharp white orbs are transformed in the oven, turning sweet and fork-tender, and the lemon-y, grassy notes of the marjoram enliven the olive-oil slicked vegetables.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The chicken liver spiedini ($7) are even better: Three meaty livers come grilled and skewered atop thinly sliced grilled bread topped with a potent garlicky gremolata and sweet marsala sauce that focus the iron-y richness of the livers. Lumaconi pasta ($17) studded with smoky speck, bitter puntarelle, and lemon-y breadcrumbs is a solid choice as well. It verges on too salty, but the creamy sauce keeps the toothsome pasta in balance.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_76585\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/01/Meatballs-new.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/01/Meatballs-new.jpg\" alt='The \"secret\" meatballs are made from a trio of beef, pork, and cured guanciale. Photo: Kate Williams' width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-76585\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The \"secret\" meatballs are made from a trio of beef, pork, and cured guanciale. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Yet if there’s one dish that has inspired more simultaneous praise and consternation, it’s the \"secret\" meatballs ($12). Not listed on the menu, but cheerfully introduced by servers, the trio of earthy, \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Guanciale\">guanciale\u003c/a>-laced beef and pork meatballs served in a wine-forward tomato sauce are indicative of Tosca’s ethos. Like the rest of the dishes on the menu, the meatballs are expertly prepared—one cannot even think the words “dry” or “tough” in their presence—but, at $4 \u003cem>per meatball\u003c/em>, they verge on extravagantly expensive. (Tosca has actually \u003cem>lowered\u003c/em> the price on the special; at opening the meatballs were $15.) For a dish of peasant origins, the cost is laughable.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I suppose you’re paying for more than just the meatballs. Tosca’s renovation has affected more than just the kitchen. Everything in the restaurant is polished, from the espresso machine to the red leather boots to the bartenders’ crisp white coats. The room feels like a time warp; Tosca effortlessly evokes a mid-century ethos of aspiration. Service is sunny, sharp, and attentive, even when dining in the crowded bar area (a wait for a table at 5pm on a Sunday was close to 2 hours). It is as if Bloomfield managed to conjure the best of New York service and meld it with the utter casualness of San Francisco.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even with great service, I find it hard to justify a full, multicourse meal at Tosca, at least until I’ve got a tech-sized salary. But I find no problem in dropping in for a drink, a few meatballs, and a roasted vegetable or two. I might just have to go out for a slice of pizza afterwards.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Information:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://toscacafesf.com/\">Tosca Cafe\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nAddress: \u003ca href=\"http://goo.gl/6ixRsK\">Map\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n242 Columbus Ave\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94133\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/toscacafe\">Tosca Cafe\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/ToscaCafeSF\">@ToscaCafeSF\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "After being revamped by New York's April Bloomfield, Tosca Cafe in North Beach opened to great fanfare. Is the pricey, popular new version worth the cost? Kate Williams gives her take.",
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"description": "After being revamped by New York's April Bloomfield, Tosca Cafe in North Beach opened to great fanfare. Is the pricey, popular new version worth the cost? Kate Williams gives her take.",
"title": "Tosca Cafe: The Revamped North Beach Classic Serves Excellent Italian Fare, For a Price | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_76598\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 450px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/01/tosca-outside-new.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/01/tosca-outside-new.jpg\" alt=\"Tosca Cafe reopened this fall after being bought by New York’s April Bloomfield. They kept the neon sign. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"450\" class=\"size-full wp-image-76598\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tosca Cafe reopened this fall after being bought by New York’s April Bloomfield. They kept the neon sign. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>I never set foot in the old \u003ca href=\"http://toscacafesf.com/\">Tosca Cafe\u003c/a> in North Beach. The name never popped up in the first few months I moved to the Bay; these days, dives (however famous) don’t tend to enter a list of must-see bars for city newbies unless they’re in the Mission. The name didn’t show up on my radar until the news last January that the infamous bar had been bought by \u003ca href=\"http://www.aprilbloomfield.com/\">April Bloomfield\u003c/a>, the famously British, offal-centric New York chef, along with her business partner \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/Kennewyork\">Ken Friedman\u003c/a>. By then, of course, the news was fraught with concern about the Manhattan-ification of San Francisco and the death of neighborhood institutions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_76600\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/01/Door-interior-new.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/01/Door-interior-new.jpg\" alt=\"Tosca fills up early, even on a Sunday night. Luckily, the full dinner menu is available at the bar. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"633\" class=\"size-full wp-image-76600\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tosca fills up early, even on a Sunday night. Luckily, the full dinner menu is available at the bar. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>I was just excited to have the opportunity to taste Bloomfield’s cooking. I’ve also never dined at any of her east coast outposts. Pictures and stories of her bombastically meaty dishes have taunted me for years. Finally, time and place aligned. Tosca is only a short BART ride away. I can go whenever I’d like—or else, as often as my wallet allows.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_76583\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/01/Giardiniera-new.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/01/Giardiniera-new.jpg\" alt=\"Tosca's menu is small, well-crafted, and expensive. Their $5 pickled giardiniera totals only a few tasty bites. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"751\" class=\"size-full wp-image-76583\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tosca's menu is small, well-crafted, and expensive. Their $5 pickled giardiniera totals only a few tasty bites. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>For a bar-turned-restaurant with no reservations and a short, small-plates-focused menu, Tosca is very expensive. You’ll need to shell out at least $30 for one of the three entrees (and $42 for half a chicken). Putting together a meal of a couple of more diminutive dishes will easily top that. Cocktails, including their spiked house cappuccino served out of their gorgeous antique espresso machine, are a cool $12. Beer isn’t much cheaper, and wines (mostly old world) run on the high end as well.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_76584\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/01/Lumaconi-new.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/01/Lumaconi-new.jpg\" alt=\"Lumaconi with speck, puntarelle, and lemon breadcrumbs is one of three simple pasta dishes on Tosca’s menu. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"748\" class=\"size-full wp-image-76584\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Lumaconi with speck, puntarelle, and lemon breadcrumbs is one of three simple pasta dishes on Tosca’s menu. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Is it worth the cost, you ask? Those $12 cocktails? Superbly crafted, gimmick-free classics by Bourbon and Branch alum \u003ca href=\"http://sf.eater.com/archives/2013/09/30/isaac_shumway_spills_details_on_tosca_cafes_bar_revamp.php\">Isaac Shumway\u003c/a>. The miniscule, five dollar saucer of warm marinated olives? Redolent of anise, studded with braised fennel, and compulsively eatable. Pickled giardiniera (also $5) is fresh and light, with a pleasant pucker.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Roasted Tokyo turnips ($7), greens attached, tossed with garlic, marjoram, and chili were a runaway hit. The sharp white orbs are transformed in the oven, turning sweet and fork-tender, and the lemon-y, grassy notes of the marjoram enliven the olive-oil slicked vegetables.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The chicken liver spiedini ($7) are even better: Three meaty livers come grilled and skewered atop thinly sliced grilled bread topped with a potent garlicky gremolata and sweet marsala sauce that focus the iron-y richness of the livers. Lumaconi pasta ($17) studded with smoky speck, bitter puntarelle, and lemon-y breadcrumbs is a solid choice as well. It verges on too salty, but the creamy sauce keeps the toothsome pasta in balance.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_76585\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/01/Meatballs-new.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/01/Meatballs-new.jpg\" alt='The \"secret\" meatballs are made from a trio of beef, pork, and cured guanciale. Photo: Kate Williams' width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-76585\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The \"secret\" meatballs are made from a trio of beef, pork, and cured guanciale. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Yet if there’s one dish that has inspired more simultaneous praise and consternation, it’s the \"secret\" meatballs ($12). Not listed on the menu, but cheerfully introduced by servers, the trio of earthy, \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Guanciale\">guanciale\u003c/a>-laced beef and pork meatballs served in a wine-forward tomato sauce are indicative of Tosca’s ethos. Like the rest of the dishes on the menu, the meatballs are expertly prepared—one cannot even think the words “dry” or “tough” in their presence—but, at $4 \u003cem>per meatball\u003c/em>, they verge on extravagantly expensive. (Tosca has actually \u003cem>lowered\u003c/em> the price on the special; at opening the meatballs were $15.) For a dish of peasant origins, the cost is laughable.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I suppose you’re paying for more than just the meatballs. Tosca’s renovation has affected more than just the kitchen. Everything in the restaurant is polished, from the espresso machine to the red leather boots to the bartenders’ crisp white coats. The room feels like a time warp; Tosca effortlessly evokes a mid-century ethos of aspiration. Service is sunny, sharp, and attentive, even when dining in the crowded bar area (a wait for a table at 5pm on a Sunday was close to 2 hours). It is as if Bloomfield managed to conjure the best of New York service and meld it with the utter casualness of San Francisco.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even with great service, I find it hard to justify a full, multicourse meal at Tosca, at least until I’ve got a tech-sized salary. But I find no problem in dropping in for a drink, a few meatballs, and a roasted vegetable or two. I might just have to go out for a slice of pizza afterwards.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Information:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://toscacafesf.com/\">Tosca Cafe\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nAddress: \u003ca href=\"http://goo.gl/6ixRsK\">Map\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n242 Columbus Ave\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94133\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/toscacafe\">Tosca Cafe\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/ToscaCafeSF\">@ToscaCafeSF\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Linea Caffe: The Tiny Mission Café Hit the Coffee and Waffle Sweet Spot ",
"title": "Linea Caffe: The Tiny Mission Café Hit the Coffee and Waffle Sweet Spot ",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_74942\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/egg-souffle-waffle.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/egg-souffle-waffle.jpg\" alt=\"The egg soufflé waffle from Lt. Waffle inside of Linea Caffe in the Mission comes topped with soft goat cheese and fresh herbs. Photo: Emmeline Chuu.\" width=\"1000\" height=\"526\" class=\"size-full wp-image-74942\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The egg soufflé waffle from Lt. Waffle inside of Linea Caffe in the Mission comes topped with soft goat cheese and fresh herbs. Photo: Emmeline Chuu.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Proust had his madeleine, Julia Child had her sole meuniere, and now I have an egg soufflé waffle. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What exactly is an egg soufflé waffle, you ask? It’s a specialty at the new \u003ca href=\"http://www.lineacaffe.com\">Linea Caffe’s\u003c/a> waffle emporium, \u003ca href=\"http://www.ltwaffle.com\">Lt. Waffle\u003c/a>: scrambled eggs cooked in a heavy waffle iron, spread with a generous smear of soft goat cheese and topped with a flurry of bright green herbs. Ever so fluffy on the inside and super-crisp on the outside with tangy, rich cheese in every bite, these waffles are a cross-continental reincarnation of many childhood Sunday morning breakfasts. One bite of the waffle, and I was transported back to my parents’ dining room table, legs swinging off the edge of my chair, and digging into a hot, buttery cream cheese and green onion diner-style omelet of my fathers’ creation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lt. Waffle’s soufflé waffle is, of course, much cooler than those omelets; its ingredients, its location, and its culinary architects have pedigree and style. It is but one item on one menu in one section of the tiny, talent-filled Linea Caffe, a sub-300 square foot storefront behind the Duc Loi supermarket on 18th street in the Mission. \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/andrewbbarnett\">Andrew Barnett\u003c/a> founder of Ecco Caffe and national coffee judge, is the brains behind the coffee counter, and \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anthony_Myint\">Anthony Myint\u003c/a> of Mission Chinese Food and Commonwealth, manages the kitchen, slinging waffles and creative salads for those that want a bite with their buzz. Linea opened shop in September, and glowing reviews have followed ever since. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_74946\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Lt.-Waffle-Counter.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Lt.-Waffle-Counter.jpg\" alt=\"Lt. Waffle is one of three miniature cafes, along with GreenSalads.org, and Linea itself, inside of the Linea Caffe space. Photo: Emmeline Chuu.\" width=\"1000\" height=\"439\" class=\"size-full wp-image-74946\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Lt. Waffle is one of three miniature cafes, along with GreenSalads.org, and Linea itself, inside of the Linea Caffe space. Photo: Emmeline Chuu.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>I visited Linea with cautious optimism on a sunny Sunday afternoon. I know of both Myint’s and Barnett’s talents, but was, frankly, a bit wary of such a trend-focused café. After all, does San Francisco really need a micro coffee shop serving fairly expensive espresso, waffles and salads a la cart? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Given the level of care given to each component of the space, Linea certainly makes a case for its inclusion in the city’s pantheon of artisinal coffee shops. Much like Josey Baker and Four Barrel Coffee’s \u003ca href=\"http://themillsf.com/\">The Mill\u003c/a>, Linea is a place where you will surely sigh when running your credit card, but soon forget the expense when muttering “so good, so good” in between taking gluttonous bites of your $9 waffle. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_74947\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Sweet-potato-and-brussels-waffle-2.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Sweet-potato-and-brussels-waffle-2.jpg\" alt=\"A sweet potato and Brussels sprouts waffle with cranberry applesauce and crème fraiche is a seasonal special. Photo: Emmeline Chuu.\" width=\"1000\" height=\"664\" class=\"size-full wp-image-74947\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A sweet potato and Brussels sprouts waffle with cranberry applesauce and crème fraiche is a seasonal special. Photo: Emmeline Chuu.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Indeed, the egg soufflé waffle is not the only thing worth ordering at Linea. The seasonal Thanksgiving leftovers-inspired sweet potato and Brussels sprouts latke waffle with luxuriously smooth cranberry applesauce and crème fraiche is that which Black Friday snacks dream of. Other savory options include a buckwheat waffle with salmon roe and a potato waffle filled with pastrami and sauerkraut. The sweet waffles are equally creative: yeasted waffles come plain, topped with fruit, yogurt, and olive oil or drizzled with spiced chocolate syrup and coconut crema.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Salads are courtesy of Myint’s \u003ca href=\"http://www.greensalads.org/\">GreenSalads.org\u003c/a>, the charitable arm of the operation ($1 of each salad sale benefits 350.org). Right now, they’re serving a few leafy salads with romaine, mixed greens, or kale as well as both a rice and a quinoa salad. Each has clear Asian influence; ingredients like shoyu vinaigrette, shiitake mushrooms, and miso are all present. For those wishing for a less-virtuous meal, all salads can be gussied up with chicharones, chicken thighs, and/or Benton’s bacon. (The bacon is an import from Tennessee, and some of the best in the country.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_74944\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Linea-Espresso-machine.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Linea-Espresso-machine.jpg\" alt=\"Linea Caffe exclusively serves espresso drinks made to order using their La Marzocco Linea machine. Photo: Emmeline Chuu.\" width=\"1000\" height=\"749\" class=\"size-full wp-image-74944\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Linea Caffe exclusively serves espresso drinks made to order using their La Marzocco Linea machine. Photo: Emmeline Chuu.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Of course, the coffee service is impeccable, but don’t come in expecting to grab a pour-over or drip. Linea sells only espresso, hand-selected by Barnett from Brazil, Ethiopia, Guatemala, and El Salvador and roasted by Ant Walach of Sightglass. Sticking to one preparation method allows Barnett and his team to focus on perfecting their technique. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In fact, all of the divisions in Linea are intended as creative “incubators,” so one can’t expect any part of the café’s line-up to remain static. I only hope that they continue to serve the egg soufflé waffle.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_74945\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Linea-Exterior.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Linea-Exterior.jpg\" alt=\"Linea Caffe sits at the corner of 18th and San Carlos in the Mission district. Photo: Emmeline Chuu.\" width=\"1000\" height=\"691\" class=\"size-full wp-image-74945\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Linea Caffe sits at the corner of 18th and San Carlos in the Mission district. Photo: Emmeline Chuu.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Information\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.lineacaffe.com/\">Linea Caffe\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nAddress: \u003ca href=\"http://goo.gl/Gl8L6U\">Map\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n3417 18th Street\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94110\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/pages/Linea-Caffe/403298279767130\">Linea Caffe\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/linea_caffe\">@linea_caffe\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Anthony Myint, of Mission Chinese fame, is at it again with a unique pair of mini restaurants serving waffles and salads inside the venerable Andrew Barnett's new Linea Caffe. How do the dishes stack up? Kate Williams checks out the tiny, talent-filled cafe.\r\n",
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"description": "Anthony Myint, of Mission Chinese fame, is at it again with a unique pair of mini restaurants serving waffles and salads inside the venerable Andrew Barnett's new Linea Caffe. How do the dishes stack up? Kate Williams checks out the tiny, talent-filled cafe.\r\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_74942\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/egg-souffle-waffle.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/egg-souffle-waffle.jpg\" alt=\"The egg soufflé waffle from Lt. Waffle inside of Linea Caffe in the Mission comes topped with soft goat cheese and fresh herbs. Photo: Emmeline Chuu.\" width=\"1000\" height=\"526\" class=\"size-full wp-image-74942\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The egg soufflé waffle from Lt. Waffle inside of Linea Caffe in the Mission comes topped with soft goat cheese and fresh herbs. Photo: Emmeline Chuu.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Proust had his madeleine, Julia Child had her sole meuniere, and now I have an egg soufflé waffle. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What exactly is an egg soufflé waffle, you ask? It’s a specialty at the new \u003ca href=\"http://www.lineacaffe.com\">Linea Caffe’s\u003c/a> waffle emporium, \u003ca href=\"http://www.ltwaffle.com\">Lt. Waffle\u003c/a>: scrambled eggs cooked in a heavy waffle iron, spread with a generous smear of soft goat cheese and topped with a flurry of bright green herbs. Ever so fluffy on the inside and super-crisp on the outside with tangy, rich cheese in every bite, these waffles are a cross-continental reincarnation of many childhood Sunday morning breakfasts. One bite of the waffle, and I was transported back to my parents’ dining room table, legs swinging off the edge of my chair, and digging into a hot, buttery cream cheese and green onion diner-style omelet of my fathers’ creation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lt. Waffle’s soufflé waffle is, of course, much cooler than those omelets; its ingredients, its location, and its culinary architects have pedigree and style. It is but one item on one menu in one section of the tiny, talent-filled Linea Caffe, a sub-300 square foot storefront behind the Duc Loi supermarket on 18th street in the Mission. \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/andrewbbarnett\">Andrew Barnett\u003c/a> founder of Ecco Caffe and national coffee judge, is the brains behind the coffee counter, and \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anthony_Myint\">Anthony Myint\u003c/a> of Mission Chinese Food and Commonwealth, manages the kitchen, slinging waffles and creative salads for those that want a bite with their buzz. Linea opened shop in September, and glowing reviews have followed ever since. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_74946\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Lt.-Waffle-Counter.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Lt.-Waffle-Counter.jpg\" alt=\"Lt. Waffle is one of three miniature cafes, along with GreenSalads.org, and Linea itself, inside of the Linea Caffe space. Photo: Emmeline Chuu.\" width=\"1000\" height=\"439\" class=\"size-full wp-image-74946\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Lt. Waffle is one of three miniature cafes, along with GreenSalads.org, and Linea itself, inside of the Linea Caffe space. Photo: Emmeline Chuu.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>I visited Linea with cautious optimism on a sunny Sunday afternoon. I know of both Myint’s and Barnett’s talents, but was, frankly, a bit wary of such a trend-focused café. After all, does San Francisco really need a micro coffee shop serving fairly expensive espresso, waffles and salads a la cart? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Given the level of care given to each component of the space, Linea certainly makes a case for its inclusion in the city’s pantheon of artisinal coffee shops. Much like Josey Baker and Four Barrel Coffee’s \u003ca href=\"http://themillsf.com/\">The Mill\u003c/a>, Linea is a place where you will surely sigh when running your credit card, but soon forget the expense when muttering “so good, so good” in between taking gluttonous bites of your $9 waffle. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_74947\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Sweet-potato-and-brussels-waffle-2.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Sweet-potato-and-brussels-waffle-2.jpg\" alt=\"A sweet potato and Brussels sprouts waffle with cranberry applesauce and crème fraiche is a seasonal special. Photo: Emmeline Chuu.\" width=\"1000\" height=\"664\" class=\"size-full wp-image-74947\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A sweet potato and Brussels sprouts waffle with cranberry applesauce and crème fraiche is a seasonal special. Photo: Emmeline Chuu.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Indeed, the egg soufflé waffle is not the only thing worth ordering at Linea. The seasonal Thanksgiving leftovers-inspired sweet potato and Brussels sprouts latke waffle with luxuriously smooth cranberry applesauce and crème fraiche is that which Black Friday snacks dream of. Other savory options include a buckwheat waffle with salmon roe and a potato waffle filled with pastrami and sauerkraut. The sweet waffles are equally creative: yeasted waffles come plain, topped with fruit, yogurt, and olive oil or drizzled with spiced chocolate syrup and coconut crema.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Salads are courtesy of Myint’s \u003ca href=\"http://www.greensalads.org/\">GreenSalads.org\u003c/a>, the charitable arm of the operation ($1 of each salad sale benefits 350.org). Right now, they’re serving a few leafy salads with romaine, mixed greens, or kale as well as both a rice and a quinoa salad. Each has clear Asian influence; ingredients like shoyu vinaigrette, shiitake mushrooms, and miso are all present. For those wishing for a less-virtuous meal, all salads can be gussied up with chicharones, chicken thighs, and/or Benton’s bacon. (The bacon is an import from Tennessee, and some of the best in the country.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_74944\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Linea-Espresso-machine.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Linea-Espresso-machine.jpg\" alt=\"Linea Caffe exclusively serves espresso drinks made to order using their La Marzocco Linea machine. Photo: Emmeline Chuu.\" width=\"1000\" height=\"749\" class=\"size-full wp-image-74944\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Linea Caffe exclusively serves espresso drinks made to order using their La Marzocco Linea machine. Photo: Emmeline Chuu.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Of course, the coffee service is impeccable, but don’t come in expecting to grab a pour-over or drip. Linea sells only espresso, hand-selected by Barnett from Brazil, Ethiopia, Guatemala, and El Salvador and roasted by Ant Walach of Sightglass. Sticking to one preparation method allows Barnett and his team to focus on perfecting their technique. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In fact, all of the divisions in Linea are intended as creative “incubators,” so one can’t expect any part of the café’s line-up to remain static. I only hope that they continue to serve the egg soufflé waffle.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_74945\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Linea-Exterior.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Linea-Exterior.jpg\" alt=\"Linea Caffe sits at the corner of 18th and San Carlos in the Mission district. Photo: Emmeline Chuu.\" width=\"1000\" height=\"691\" class=\"size-full wp-image-74945\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Linea Caffe sits at the corner of 18th and San Carlos in the Mission district. Photo: Emmeline Chuu.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Information\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.lineacaffe.com/\">Linea Caffe\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nAddress: \u003ca href=\"http://goo.gl/Gl8L6U\">Map\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n3417 18th Street\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94110\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/pages/Linea-Caffe/403298279767130\">Linea Caffe\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/linea_caffe\">@linea_caffe\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Stuffed: Pierogi Joint is Positioned to be a Solid Alternative to Taquerias in the Mission",
"title": "Stuffed: Pierogi Joint is Positioned to be a Solid Alternative to Taquerias in the Mission",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_74779\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/exterior.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/exterior.jpg\" alt=\"Stuffed is a new pierogi restaurant near the 24th Street BART in the Mission district. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-74779\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Stuffed is a new pierogi restaurant near the 24th Street BART in the Mission district. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Tucked into a slender storefront between a couple of overflowing discount stores on the boisterous intersection of 24th and Mission is Stuffed, a new pierogi and beer bar. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pierogi, boiled dumplings of Eastern European provenance, aren’t exactly a common sight amongst the tacos, burritos, and pupusas that fill the stomachs of the typical Mission Street wanderer. Stuffed opened in September, in hopes of filling in that missing gap. Co-owners Dana Sacco and Andrew Schoengrund are both from the pierogi-friendly Midwest, and they’re taking their cues from the Americanized dumplings they grew up eating. While traditional pierogi are humble, bare-bones dumplings of potatoes, farmer’s cheese, and (sometimes) meat served simply with caramelized onions and sour cream, the Midwestern versions are typically bigger, bolder, and full of cheddar cheese. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sacco welcomed us in on a recent Saturday afternoon with a friendly smile and helpful tips on ordering. With only nine varieties on the menu, it was an easy decision to try one of each pierog. After ordering at the register, we settled in to watch the passing crowd from an outside table. The restaurant was empty, giving the impression that Stuffed was more appropriate for a late-night visit than for weekend lunch. We made a note to return another time after dark for beers, snacks, and a televised sports game.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_74781\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/traditional-spinach-salmon-pierogi-new.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/traditional-spinach-salmon-pierogi-new.jpg\" alt=\"All of Stuffed’s pierogi, like these spinach and mushroom, potato and cheese, and salmon options, are huge. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-74781\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">All of Stuffed’s pierogi, like these spinach and mushroom, potato and cheese, and salmon options, are huge. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Our table filled quickly with platters of pierogi, and Stuffed’s Midwestern pedigree becomes abundantly clear. Each pierog is fist-sized and large enough, in fact, to eat on its own as a solid snack. An order of two per plate makes a decent meal. Three are almost excessive. So the fairly high price, around $4 to $5 a pop, seems almost justified. There’s little chance of leaving without a full belly.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The pierogi fillings themselves run the gamut from traditional potato and cheese to comically strange “buffalo” flavor. Thankfully, this bar snack doesn’t include minced chicken wings. Inside the hot sauce-laden dough is a mixture of mashed potatoes and blue and jack cheese. Neon orange buffalo sauce crowns the dumpling. While it sounds more like a party trick than a tasty lunch, this curious pierog was surprisingly tasty. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_74778\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/buffalo-jalapeno-bacon-cheddar-pierogi-new.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/buffalo-jalapeno-bacon-cheddar-pierogi-new.jpg\" alt=\"The bacon cheddar piergoi, far right, were the most surprising of the bunch. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-74778\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The bacon cheddar piergoi, far right, were the most surprising of the bunch. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Also unexpected good were the bacon cheddar pierogi, hot pockets for the hipster set. The potato and cheese pierogi, jalapeño special, and smoked salmon with cream cheese were all solid, each with its own distinct identity. Llapingacho, Ecuadorian fried potato cakes, were as satisfying as any plate of mashed potatoes, but the lack of textural contrast from the missing dough made these feel like a concession to the gluten-free crowd.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In fact, even the less successful flavors (mushroom and spinach, goat cheese, and blueberry) were redeemed by Sacco’s tender dough. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Stuffed’s stumble is not in these weaker pierogi, but in the toppings. The sautéed onions scattered atop almost every order hadn’t yet spent enough time on the flattop to collapse into sweet, silky softness. Each fat dollop of sour cream was appropriately thick and tangy, but the sauerkraut next to it was dry and far too sour. The other options—a cup of creamy cucumber salad or vinegary slaw—were each serviceable, but no substitute for the lack of properly caramelized onions and tangy kraut.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_74782\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/stuffed-sign-new.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/stuffed-sign-new.jpg\" alt=\"Beer is the beverage of choice when eating Stuffed’s pierogi. They hope to soon offer a couple of Midwestern beers to round out the drinks menu. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"703\" class=\"size-full wp-image-74782\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Beer is the beverage of choice when eating Stuffed’s pierogi. They hope to soon offer a couple of Midwestern beers to round out the drinks menu. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Most of the beers on offer are well matched to the pierogi. Unexceptional macrobrews and a few local favorites like Drake’s and Anchor Steam make up most of the list. Soon, Sacco and Schoengrund plan on serving Midwestern brews from Yuengling and Great Lakes that aren’t currently available in the Bay. Wine seems mostly an afterthought, but it’s hard to imagine sipping on a nice glass of pinot while digging into a plateful of bacon-cheddar dumplings smeared in sour cream. Stuffed also curiously offers mimosas, perhaps in a plea to solicit brunch patrons during their slow weekend hours.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If Stuffed can find a way to draw in greater daytime crowds, they could stand out as one of the only viable alternatives to tacos and fast food on their block. Right now, the restaurant feels like a mid-Valencia street restaurant that lost its way, getting stuck on a stretch of Mission that is dominated by competitively cheap taquerias. Only a block up 24th Street, there are plenty of inferior and more expensive restaurants crammed with Stuffed’s key demographic—young foodies looking for something new with a couple of beers alongside. Only time will tell if they’ll fall for pierogi.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Information:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/stuffed-san-francisco\">Stuffed\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nAddress: \u003ca href=\"http://goo.gl/gcX0mq\">Map\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n2788 Mission Street\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94110\u003cbr>\nPhone: (415) 642-1069\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/SfStuffed\">@SfStuffed\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Stuffed, a new pierogi restaurant in the Mission district, promises a uniquely Midwestern take on bar food. Can it compete with the countless other cheap eats in the neighborhood? Kate Williams investigates.",
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"description": "Stuffed, a new pierogi restaurant in the Mission district, promises a uniquely Midwestern take on bar food. Can it compete with the countless other cheap eats in the neighborhood? Kate Williams investigates.",
"title": "Stuffed: Pierogi Joint is Positioned to be a Solid Alternative to Taquerias in the Mission | KQED",
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"headline": "Stuffed: Pierogi Joint is Positioned to be a Solid Alternative to Taquerias in the Mission",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_74779\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/exterior.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/exterior.jpg\" alt=\"Stuffed is a new pierogi restaurant near the 24th Street BART in the Mission district. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-74779\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Stuffed is a new pierogi restaurant near the 24th Street BART in the Mission district. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Tucked into a slender storefront between a couple of overflowing discount stores on the boisterous intersection of 24th and Mission is Stuffed, a new pierogi and beer bar. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pierogi, boiled dumplings of Eastern European provenance, aren’t exactly a common sight amongst the tacos, burritos, and pupusas that fill the stomachs of the typical Mission Street wanderer. Stuffed opened in September, in hopes of filling in that missing gap. Co-owners Dana Sacco and Andrew Schoengrund are both from the pierogi-friendly Midwest, and they’re taking their cues from the Americanized dumplings they grew up eating. While traditional pierogi are humble, bare-bones dumplings of potatoes, farmer’s cheese, and (sometimes) meat served simply with caramelized onions and sour cream, the Midwestern versions are typically bigger, bolder, and full of cheddar cheese. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sacco welcomed us in on a recent Saturday afternoon with a friendly smile and helpful tips on ordering. With only nine varieties on the menu, it was an easy decision to try one of each pierog. After ordering at the register, we settled in to watch the passing crowd from an outside table. The restaurant was empty, giving the impression that Stuffed was more appropriate for a late-night visit than for weekend lunch. We made a note to return another time after dark for beers, snacks, and a televised sports game.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_74781\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/traditional-spinach-salmon-pierogi-new.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/traditional-spinach-salmon-pierogi-new.jpg\" alt=\"All of Stuffed’s pierogi, like these spinach and mushroom, potato and cheese, and salmon options, are huge. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-74781\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">All of Stuffed’s pierogi, like these spinach and mushroom, potato and cheese, and salmon options, are huge. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Our table filled quickly with platters of pierogi, and Stuffed’s Midwestern pedigree becomes abundantly clear. Each pierog is fist-sized and large enough, in fact, to eat on its own as a solid snack. An order of two per plate makes a decent meal. Three are almost excessive. So the fairly high price, around $4 to $5 a pop, seems almost justified. There’s little chance of leaving without a full belly.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The pierogi fillings themselves run the gamut from traditional potato and cheese to comically strange “buffalo” flavor. Thankfully, this bar snack doesn’t include minced chicken wings. Inside the hot sauce-laden dough is a mixture of mashed potatoes and blue and jack cheese. Neon orange buffalo sauce crowns the dumpling. While it sounds more like a party trick than a tasty lunch, this curious pierog was surprisingly tasty. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_74778\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/buffalo-jalapeno-bacon-cheddar-pierogi-new.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/buffalo-jalapeno-bacon-cheddar-pierogi-new.jpg\" alt=\"The bacon cheddar piergoi, far right, were the most surprising of the bunch. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-74778\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The bacon cheddar piergoi, far right, were the most surprising of the bunch. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Also unexpected good were the bacon cheddar pierogi, hot pockets for the hipster set. The potato and cheese pierogi, jalapeño special, and smoked salmon with cream cheese were all solid, each with its own distinct identity. Llapingacho, Ecuadorian fried potato cakes, were as satisfying as any plate of mashed potatoes, but the lack of textural contrast from the missing dough made these feel like a concession to the gluten-free crowd.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In fact, even the less successful flavors (mushroom and spinach, goat cheese, and blueberry) were redeemed by Sacco’s tender dough. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Stuffed’s stumble is not in these weaker pierogi, but in the toppings. The sautéed onions scattered atop almost every order hadn’t yet spent enough time on the flattop to collapse into sweet, silky softness. Each fat dollop of sour cream was appropriately thick and tangy, but the sauerkraut next to it was dry and far too sour. The other options—a cup of creamy cucumber salad or vinegary slaw—were each serviceable, but no substitute for the lack of properly caramelized onions and tangy kraut.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_74782\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/stuffed-sign-new.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/stuffed-sign-new.jpg\" alt=\"Beer is the beverage of choice when eating Stuffed’s pierogi. They hope to soon offer a couple of Midwestern beers to round out the drinks menu. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"703\" class=\"size-full wp-image-74782\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Beer is the beverage of choice when eating Stuffed’s pierogi. They hope to soon offer a couple of Midwestern beers to round out the drinks menu. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Most of the beers on offer are well matched to the pierogi. Unexceptional macrobrews and a few local favorites like Drake’s and Anchor Steam make up most of the list. Soon, Sacco and Schoengrund plan on serving Midwestern brews from Yuengling and Great Lakes that aren’t currently available in the Bay. Wine seems mostly an afterthought, but it’s hard to imagine sipping on a nice glass of pinot while digging into a plateful of bacon-cheddar dumplings smeared in sour cream. Stuffed also curiously offers mimosas, perhaps in a plea to solicit brunch patrons during their slow weekend hours.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If Stuffed can find a way to draw in greater daytime crowds, they could stand out as one of the only viable alternatives to tacos and fast food on their block. Right now, the restaurant feels like a mid-Valencia street restaurant that lost its way, getting stuck on a stretch of Mission that is dominated by competitively cheap taquerias. Only a block up 24th Street, there are plenty of inferior and more expensive restaurants crammed with Stuffed’s key demographic—young foodies looking for something new with a couple of beers alongside. Only time will tell if they’ll fall for pierogi.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Information:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/stuffed-san-francisco\">Stuffed\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nAddress: \u003ca href=\"http://goo.gl/gcX0mq\">Map\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n2788 Mission Street\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94110\u003cbr>\nPhone: (415) 642-1069\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/SfStuffed\">@SfStuffed\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "First Impression: Local Mission Market",
"title": "First Impression: Local Mission Market",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_73689\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/fiss-7209.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/fiss-7209.jpg\" alt=\"Cheese counter, pickles and fresh pasta shelves with view of kitchen. Photo: Naomi Fiss\" width=\"1000\" height=\"714\" class=\"size-full wp-image-73689\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Local Mission Market cheese counter, pickles and fresh pasta shelves with view of kitchen.\u003cbr>Photo: Naomi Fiss\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>All Photos by\u003c/em> \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/naomifliss/\">\u003cem>Naomi Fiss\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The to-do list of the prep chefs at \u003ca href=\"http://www.localmissionmarket.com\">Local Mission Market\u003c/a> is a long one. Literally: stand in front of the swath of butcher paper listing the day's output, and you'll see a list of items that extends from eye-level to somewhere near your knees. And each station--bread, meat and fish, pasta, preserving--has its own equally long list, to make all the elements that come together to stock this newly opened market that prides itself on making almost everything in-house from locally sourced ingredients. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_73706\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/fiss-7095.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/fiss-7095.jpg\" alt=\"Yaron Milgrom examines the prep list for the day. Photo: Naomi Fiss\" width=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-73706\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Yaron Milgrom examines the prep list for the day. Photo: Naomi Fiss\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Opened on Tuesday November 5 by Yaron Milgrom and executive chef Jake Des Voignes, the market joins the business partners' two Local restaurants nearby, \u003ca href=\"http://www.localmissioneatery.com/\">Local Mission Eatery\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.localscornersf.com\">Local's Corner\u003c/a>. As a retail business open daily from 9am to 9pm, it's already employing more than 30 people, including chef de cuisine Leslie Gratiano, sous chefs Nick Noren and T.J. Richards, and head baker Sandy Guevara. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_73692\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/fiss-7274.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/fiss-7274.jpg\" alt=\"Yaron Milgrom and executive chef Jake Des Voignes. Photo: Naomi Fiss\" width=\"1000\" height=\"714\" class=\"size-full wp-image-73692\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Yaron Milgrom and executive chef Jake Des Voignes. Photo: Naomi Fiss\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The stripped-down, rectangular space is still being filled, and not all the layout makes sense. Ready-to-eat and prepared foods, like salads and soups, are tucked away in a refrigerated case in a side alcove next to the coffee and tea, too easy for the casual shopper to miss. But the store is still brand-new and just being its learning curve of what the neighborhood wants; presumably, over the next few weeks, if no one can find the soup, the soup will move. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_73682\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/fiss-7062.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/fiss-7062.jpg\" alt=\"Interior of Local Mission Market. Photo: Naomi Fiss\" width=\"1000\" height=\"714\" class=\"size-full wp-image-73682\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Interior of Local Mission Market. Photo: Naomi Fiss\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>[gallery link=\"file\" ids=\"73713,73716,73683,73719,73704,73691\"]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is a market for both chefs and eaters. Everything is either a single ingredient--glass bottles of Straus milk, boxes of Red Hill eggs, a small but inviting display of Northern and Central California cheeses, plus persimmons and chanterelles in the produce boxes and dozens of whole grains, beans, nuts, and dried fruits giving Rainbow a run of its money in sleek, wood-trimmed bulk bins--or a creation of something more sumptuous and ready-to-eat from the busy mezzanine kitchen above. Creme fraiche, mascarpone, yogurt, and goat's milk ricotta are all made in-house. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_73681\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/fiss-7050.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/fiss-7050.jpg\" alt=\"Local Mission Market produce and dairy area. Photo: Naomi Fiss\" width=\"1000\" height=\"773\" class=\"size-full wp-image-73681\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Local Mission Market produce and dairy area. Photo: Naomi Fiss\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>[gallery link=\"file\" ids=\"73687,73712,73690\"]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dozens of pickles, jams, marmalades, and preserves line the shop's wooden shelves; near the meat counter are jars of house-made ketchup, mustard, barbecue sauce, Italian-style peach mostarda, even three kinds of hot sauce. The style is straightforward with a twist: tarragon in the apricot jam, rosemary in the plum preserves and pear butter, lemon verbena in the strawberry jam. The key is the commercial combi oven, a self-contained steam-injection unit that can process close to 200 jars at a time, thanks to adjustable temperature and humidity levels. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[gallery link=\"file\" ids=\"73720,73714,73708\"]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And it's a good thing there's plenty of cheese, butter, and jam in the house, because word is already out about baker Sandy Guevera's delicious bread. For all San Francisco's frenzy for all things gluten-free, it seems that plenty of us still can't pass up a fantastic fresh loaf when it's coming out the oven right down the block. An alum of Acme Bread, Arizmendi, A16, Mayfield Bakery in Palo Alto, and the \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfbi.com\">San Francisco Baking Institute\u003c/a>, Guevara is excited about the \"amazing, heirloom grains and flours\" that the kitchen is sourcing from \u003ca href=\"http://fpfarm.com/the-farm/orchard/\">Front Porch Farm\u003c/a> near the Russian River and \u003ca href=\"http://www.fullbellyfarm.com\">Full Belly Farm\u003c/a> in the Capay Valley, which she blends with a live starter culture to make country-style pan loaves as well as crusty boules and batards. What keeps it fun and interesting for Guevara is getting to shop for the kitchen and \"mix and match\" out of what's coming in daily to the store. She also feels seeing the same ingredients in the store that she's using in the kitchen will help demystify the process, and encourage shoppers to try baking their own similar breads at home. And while the bulk of her breads are slow-risen with her own sourdough-style starter, she's also making baguettes with fresh yeast, which means faster proofing, rising, and baking, in order to keep up with the demand. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_73705\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/fiss-7091.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/fiss-7091.jpg\" alt='\"Zero Waste\" sign. Everything in your cart is either compostable or recyclable. Photo: Naomi Fiss' width=\"500\" height=\"700\" class=\"size-full wp-image-73705\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">\"Zero Waste\" sign. Everything in your cart is either compostable or recyclable. Photo: Naomi Fiss\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In the kitchen, as in the shop itself, the emphasis is on zero waste. Squeezed lemon halves leftover from lemonade-making are dehydrated and added to citrus salt or herb-tea blends; tomato skins are dried and pulverized into tomato powder for tomato salt and seasoning mixtures. Bones from animal butchery go into stock, then get roasted for use as dog bones. Having two other food businesses also helps Milgrom and his team buy in greater bulk and have a place to use produce and other perishable items before they can go to waste. And while no one would confuse this place with Foods 4 Less, or any of the many lower-priced neighborhood markets along 24th and Mission Streets, Milgrom hopes to pass along good prices on abundant items whenever possible. The chanterelle crop is fantastic this year, for example, and so fresh chanterelles are $10/lb here, rather than the $20+ found at other similar shops. The heavy wildfire season of 2013 should have a small upside of encouraging great morel mushroom supplies next year; Milgrom hopes his customers will be able to \"eat morels like they're button mushrooms\" come spring. In the bulk bins, there are \u003ca href=\"https://www.tcho.com/\">TCHO\u003c/a> chocolate buttons for baking, at $5/lb, less expensive, by several dollars a pound than the raisins next to them, and worthwhile stocking up on for holiday baking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_73685\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/fiss-7092.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/fiss-7092.jpg\" alt=\"Signage for Fish and Meat revealing local sources. Photo: Naomi Fiss\" width=\"1000\" height=\"664\" class=\"size-full wp-image-73685\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Signage for Fish and Meat revealing local sources. Photo: Naomi Fiss\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The shop's dedication to staying local is most obvious in the fish case. Late fall, before crab season opens, is a slow time for the Pacific coast fishery. What the shop can source sustainably right now:\u003cbr>\nblack cod, rock cod, whole or filleted, oysters, octopus, trout, and fat slabs of sturgeon, plus rosy-orange chunks of salmon, hot-smoked back when it was still available from local waters. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_73718\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/fiss-7220.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/fiss-7220.jpg\" alt=\"The fish case at the Local Mission Market. Photo: Naomi Fiss\" width=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-73718\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The fish case at the Local Mission Market. Photo: Naomi Fiss\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In the meat case, chicken, beef, pork, lamb, and rabbit, with plans for turkey closer to Thanksgiving. A lone pig trotter hangs by a string in the cold room behind the case--somewhat of a Local signature, since a similar foot has pride of place in the glass-walled walk-in at Local Mission Eatery, too. It's a visceral reminder that the shop and restaurants pride themselves on doing their butchery and using the whole animal, treating the ears and feet with as much respect as the higher-dollar chops and roasts. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_73688\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/fiss-7147.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/fiss-7147.jpg\" alt=\"Meats curing at Local Mission Market. Photo: Naomi Fiss\" width=\"1000\" height=\"773\" class=\"size-full wp-image-73688\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Meats curing at Local Mission Market. Photo: Naomi Fiss\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.localmissionmarket.com\">Local Mission Market\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Address: \u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://goo.gl/maps/FsqKa\">[map]\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n2670 Harrison St (between 22nd and 23rd Sts)\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94110\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Ph:\u003c/strong> (415) 795-3355\u003cbr>\nHours:\u003cbr>\nMon-Sun, 9am-9pm\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Facebook: \u003c/strong>\u003ca>LocalMissionMarket\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Twitter: \u003c/strong>\u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/localmarketsf\">@localmarketsf\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_73680\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/fiss-7049.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/fiss-7049.jpg\" alt=\"Exterior of Local Mission Market on Harrison Street. Photo: Naomi Fiss\" width=\"1000\" height=\"714\" class=\"size-full wp-image-73680\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Exterior of Local Mission Market on Harrison Street. Photo: Naomi Fiss\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>KQED Pop coverage on Local Mission Market:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.kqed.org/pop/2013/11/13/should-we-embrace-or-resist-gourmet-grocery-stores-like-local-mission-market-san-francisco/\">Should We Embrace or Resist Gourmet Grocery Stores Like Local Mission Market?\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Bay Area Bites takes a look around the new Local Mission Market, dedicated to locavore cooking and eating from the team behind Local Mission Eatery and Local's Corner. \r\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_73689\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/fiss-7209.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/fiss-7209.jpg\" alt=\"Cheese counter, pickles and fresh pasta shelves with view of kitchen. Photo: Naomi Fiss\" width=\"1000\" height=\"714\" class=\"size-full wp-image-73689\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Local Mission Market cheese counter, pickles and fresh pasta shelves with view of kitchen.\u003cbr>Photo: Naomi Fiss\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>All Photos by\u003c/em> \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/naomifliss/\">\u003cem>Naomi Fiss\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The to-do list of the prep chefs at \u003ca href=\"http://www.localmissionmarket.com\">Local Mission Market\u003c/a> is a long one. Literally: stand in front of the swath of butcher paper listing the day's output, and you'll see a list of items that extends from eye-level to somewhere near your knees. And each station--bread, meat and fish, pasta, preserving--has its own equally long list, to make all the elements that come together to stock this newly opened market that prides itself on making almost everything in-house from locally sourced ingredients. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_73706\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/fiss-7095.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/fiss-7095.jpg\" alt=\"Yaron Milgrom examines the prep list for the day. Photo: Naomi Fiss\" width=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-73706\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Yaron Milgrom examines the prep list for the day. Photo: Naomi Fiss\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Opened on Tuesday November 5 by Yaron Milgrom and executive chef Jake Des Voignes, the market joins the business partners' two Local restaurants nearby, \u003ca href=\"http://www.localmissioneatery.com/\">Local Mission Eatery\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.localscornersf.com\">Local's Corner\u003c/a>. As a retail business open daily from 9am to 9pm, it's already employing more than 30 people, including chef de cuisine Leslie Gratiano, sous chefs Nick Noren and T.J. Richards, and head baker Sandy Guevara. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_73692\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/fiss-7274.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/fiss-7274.jpg\" alt=\"Yaron Milgrom and executive chef Jake Des Voignes. Photo: Naomi Fiss\" width=\"1000\" height=\"714\" class=\"size-full wp-image-73692\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Yaron Milgrom and executive chef Jake Des Voignes. Photo: Naomi Fiss\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The stripped-down, rectangular space is still being filled, and not all the layout makes sense. Ready-to-eat and prepared foods, like salads and soups, are tucked away in a refrigerated case in a side alcove next to the coffee and tea, too easy for the casual shopper to miss. But the store is still brand-new and just being its learning curve of what the neighborhood wants; presumably, over the next few weeks, if no one can find the soup, the soup will move. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_73682\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/fiss-7062.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/fiss-7062.jpg\" alt=\"Interior of Local Mission Market. Photo: Naomi Fiss\" width=\"1000\" height=\"714\" class=\"size-full wp-image-73682\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Interior of Local Mission Market. Photo: Naomi Fiss\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is a market for both chefs and eaters. Everything is either a single ingredient--glass bottles of Straus milk, boxes of Red Hill eggs, a small but inviting display of Northern and Central California cheeses, plus persimmons and chanterelles in the produce boxes and dozens of whole grains, beans, nuts, and dried fruits giving Rainbow a run of its money in sleek, wood-trimmed bulk bins--or a creation of something more sumptuous and ready-to-eat from the busy mezzanine kitchen above. Creme fraiche, mascarpone, yogurt, and goat's milk ricotta are all made in-house. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_73681\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/fiss-7050.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/fiss-7050.jpg\" alt=\"Local Mission Market produce and dairy area. Photo: Naomi Fiss\" width=\"1000\" height=\"773\" class=\"size-full wp-image-73681\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Local Mission Market produce and dairy area. Photo: Naomi Fiss\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dozens of pickles, jams, marmalades, and preserves line the shop's wooden shelves; near the meat counter are jars of house-made ketchup, mustard, barbecue sauce, Italian-style peach mostarda, even three kinds of hot sauce. The style is straightforward with a twist: tarragon in the apricot jam, rosemary in the plum preserves and pear butter, lemon verbena in the strawberry jam. The key is the commercial combi oven, a self-contained steam-injection unit that can process close to 200 jars at a time, thanks to adjustable temperature and humidity levels. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And it's a good thing there's plenty of cheese, butter, and jam in the house, because word is already out about baker Sandy Guevera's delicious bread. For all San Francisco's frenzy for all things gluten-free, it seems that plenty of us still can't pass up a fantastic fresh loaf when it's coming out the oven right down the block. An alum of Acme Bread, Arizmendi, A16, Mayfield Bakery in Palo Alto, and the \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfbi.com\">San Francisco Baking Institute\u003c/a>, Guevara is excited about the \"amazing, heirloom grains and flours\" that the kitchen is sourcing from \u003ca href=\"http://fpfarm.com/the-farm/orchard/\">Front Porch Farm\u003c/a> near the Russian River and \u003ca href=\"http://www.fullbellyfarm.com\">Full Belly Farm\u003c/a> in the Capay Valley, which she blends with a live starter culture to make country-style pan loaves as well as crusty boules and batards. What keeps it fun and interesting for Guevara is getting to shop for the kitchen and \"mix and match\" out of what's coming in daily to the store. She also feels seeing the same ingredients in the store that she's using in the kitchen will help demystify the process, and encourage shoppers to try baking their own similar breads at home. And while the bulk of her breads are slow-risen with her own sourdough-style starter, she's also making baguettes with fresh yeast, which means faster proofing, rising, and baking, in order to keep up with the demand. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_73705\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/fiss-7091.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/fiss-7091.jpg\" alt='\"Zero Waste\" sign. Everything in your cart is either compostable or recyclable. Photo: Naomi Fiss' width=\"500\" height=\"700\" class=\"size-full wp-image-73705\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">\"Zero Waste\" sign. Everything in your cart is either compostable or recyclable. Photo: Naomi Fiss\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In the kitchen, as in the shop itself, the emphasis is on zero waste. Squeezed lemon halves leftover from lemonade-making are dehydrated and added to citrus salt or herb-tea blends; tomato skins are dried and pulverized into tomato powder for tomato salt and seasoning mixtures. Bones from animal butchery go into stock, then get roasted for use as dog bones. Having two other food businesses also helps Milgrom and his team buy in greater bulk and have a place to use produce and other perishable items before they can go to waste. And while no one would confuse this place with Foods 4 Less, or any of the many lower-priced neighborhood markets along 24th and Mission Streets, Milgrom hopes to pass along good prices on abundant items whenever possible. The chanterelle crop is fantastic this year, for example, and so fresh chanterelles are $10/lb here, rather than the $20+ found at other similar shops. The heavy wildfire season of 2013 should have a small upside of encouraging great morel mushroom supplies next year; Milgrom hopes his customers will be able to \"eat morels like they're button mushrooms\" come spring. In the bulk bins, there are \u003ca href=\"https://www.tcho.com/\">TCHO\u003c/a> chocolate buttons for baking, at $5/lb, less expensive, by several dollars a pound than the raisins next to them, and worthwhile stocking up on for holiday baking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_73685\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/fiss-7092.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/fiss-7092.jpg\" alt=\"Signage for Fish and Meat revealing local sources. Photo: Naomi Fiss\" width=\"1000\" height=\"664\" class=\"size-full wp-image-73685\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Signage for Fish and Meat revealing local sources. Photo: Naomi Fiss\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The shop's dedication to staying local is most obvious in the fish case. Late fall, before crab season opens, is a slow time for the Pacific coast fishery. What the shop can source sustainably right now:\u003cbr>\nblack cod, rock cod, whole or filleted, oysters, octopus, trout, and fat slabs of sturgeon, plus rosy-orange chunks of salmon, hot-smoked back when it was still available from local waters. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_73718\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/fiss-7220.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/fiss-7220.jpg\" alt=\"The fish case at the Local Mission Market. Photo: Naomi Fiss\" width=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-73718\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The fish case at the Local Mission Market. Photo: Naomi Fiss\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In the meat case, chicken, beef, pork, lamb, and rabbit, with plans for turkey closer to Thanksgiving. A lone pig trotter hangs by a string in the cold room behind the case--somewhat of a Local signature, since a similar foot has pride of place in the glass-walled walk-in at Local Mission Eatery, too. It's a visceral reminder that the shop and restaurants pride themselves on doing their butchery and using the whole animal, treating the ears and feet with as much respect as the higher-dollar chops and roasts. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_73688\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/fiss-7147.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/fiss-7147.jpg\" alt=\"Meats curing at Local Mission Market. Photo: Naomi Fiss\" width=\"1000\" height=\"773\" class=\"size-full wp-image-73688\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Meats curing at Local Mission Market. Photo: Naomi Fiss\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.localmissionmarket.com\">Local Mission Market\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Address: \u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://goo.gl/maps/FsqKa\">[map]\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n2670 Harrison St (between 22nd and 23rd Sts)\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94110\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Ph:\u003c/strong> (415) 795-3355\u003cbr>\nHours:\u003cbr>\nMon-Sun, 9am-9pm\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Facebook: \u003c/strong>\u003ca>LocalMissionMarket\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Twitter: \u003c/strong>\u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/localmarketsf\">@localmarketsf\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_73680\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/fiss-7049.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/fiss-7049.jpg\" alt=\"Exterior of Local Mission Market on Harrison Street. Photo: Naomi Fiss\" width=\"1000\" height=\"714\" class=\"size-full wp-image-73680\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Exterior of Local Mission Market on Harrison Street. Photo: Naomi Fiss\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>KQED Pop coverage on Local Mission Market:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.kqed.org/pop/2013/11/13/should-we-embrace-or-resist-gourmet-grocery-stores-like-local-mission-market-san-francisco/\">Should We Embrace or Resist Gourmet Grocery Stores Like Local Mission Market?\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Hunger Games: What's Behind Yelp's Fake Reviews?",
"title": "Hunger Games: What's Behind Yelp's Fake Reviews?",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_73648\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 624px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/yelpreviews.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/yelpreviews.jpg\" alt=\"A new study finds restaurants that face close regional competition are more likely to post fake positive reviews for themselves and negative reviews for competitors. Photo: Jeremy Brooks/Flickr\" width=\"624\" height=\"351\" class=\"size-full wp-image-73648\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A new study finds restaurants that face close regional competition are more likely to post fake positive reviews for themselves and negative reviews for competitors. Photo: Jeremy Brooks/\u003ca href=\"http://www.flickr.com/photos/85853333@N00/9295078135/in/photolist-fanGTR-cZq8sE-99NtC3-dd5eFv-aewmgt-aezbg7-aewmec-9tonFT-98KaPR-cBXqxf-7AoN4Q-ax1vSy-7MFizo-9R8xVH\">Flickr\u003c/a>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Serri Graslie, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/11/06/243527317/hunger-games-whats-behind-yelps-fake-reviews\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (11/8/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When it comes to scouting out a new bakery, pizzeria or noodle shop, there are few review sites that compare to Yelp. In turn, the reviews left on sites like Yelp can have a big effect on many restaurants' bottom lines.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That's created a huge incentive for businesses to write \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/alltechconsidered/2013/09/23/225455596/fake-reviewers-get-zero-stars-from-new-york-attorney-general\">fake positive reviews about themselves\u003c/a>, called \"astroturfing.\" Some fake reviews are written by the businesses, while others are produced in bulk by reputation management companies. Michael Luca of the Harvard Business School and Georgios Zervas of Boston University wanted to figure out the exact conditions under which companies have strongest incentive to leave a fake review.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Luca and Zervas analyzed 316,415 reviews for 3,625 Boston-area restaurants written between 2004 through 2012, all of which Yelp had already flagged as potentially fraudulent. These \"filtered\" reviews \u003ca href=\"http://officialblog.yelp.com/2013/09/fake-reviews-on-yelp-dont-worry-weve-got-your-back.html\">make up\u003c/a> about 25 percent of the 42 million total reviews submitted for all businesses. Of the filtered reviews, Luca and Zervas found 16 percent of reviews weren't legitimate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But defining fraudulence is tricky, especially since Luca and Zervas don't know exactly what makes Yelp's private algorithm tick. According to \u003ca href=\"http://ftc.gov/os/2009/10/091005revisedendorsementguides.pdf\">guidelines\u003c/a> from the Federal Trade Commission, a review written by the business owner, family members, competitors or a compensated reviewer would be considered false advertising. But an owner who encourages users to review his restaurant (and provides instructions) falls into a grey area.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Luca and Zervas' study, which is currently being reviewed by a journal for publication, draws a few large conclusions about who cheats and why. They found that restaurants that have a \"weak\" reputation (few and/or poor reviews) are more likely to boost their presence with fake positive reviews. Those that faced more regional competition might write positive reviews for themselves and leave negative reviews for competitors. Luca and Zervas also found that chain restaurants, which do not benefit greatly from Yelp, are less likely to commit review fraud.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Luca says he was surprised to find that ethics had nothing to do with it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"This type of decision was influenced by the amount of competition and incentives,\" he says. \"This wasn't just a story of a few rotten apples that were going to leave a bad review no matter what.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The number of posts Yelp has to filter has increased dramatically in its nine-year existence. Luca says its part of an \"arms race\" between the review sites and scammers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"People are finding increasing sophisticated ways to get around the algorithms,\" he says. And, as Zervas \u003ca href=\"http://www.bu.edu/today/2013/yelp-reviews-can-you-trust-them/\">told\u003c/a> Boston University, as more consumers make decisions with on crowd-sourced reviews, businesses have a higher incentive to cheat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But those developing the algorithms are also creating new tools that might make fake reviews less relevant in the first place. Luca's \u003ca href=\"http://www.theatlantic.com/magazine/archive/2013/07/youll-never-throw-up-in-this-town-again/309383/\" target=\"_blank\">next project\u003c/a> is working with health inspectors to tap into a restaurant's reviews and predict which ones might have hygiene violations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If a restaurant's Yelp page is branded with a \"pest infestation\" alert, it might be hard to distract with the fake review: \"Great nachos, fast service.\"\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>\u003cbr>\nCopyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Restaurants with a \"weak\" reputation are more likely to write fake positive reviews, a study finds. But chain restaurants, which do not benefit greatly from Yelp, are less likely to commit review fraud.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_73648\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 624px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/yelpreviews.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/yelpreviews.jpg\" alt=\"A new study finds restaurants that face close regional competition are more likely to post fake positive reviews for themselves and negative reviews for competitors. Photo: Jeremy Brooks/Flickr\" width=\"624\" height=\"351\" class=\"size-full wp-image-73648\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A new study finds restaurants that face close regional competition are more likely to post fake positive reviews for themselves and negative reviews for competitors. Photo: Jeremy Brooks/\u003ca href=\"http://www.flickr.com/photos/85853333@N00/9295078135/in/photolist-fanGTR-cZq8sE-99NtC3-dd5eFv-aewmgt-aezbg7-aewmec-9tonFT-98KaPR-cBXqxf-7AoN4Q-ax1vSy-7MFizo-9R8xVH\">Flickr\u003c/a>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Serri Graslie, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/11/06/243527317/hunger-games-whats-behind-yelps-fake-reviews\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (11/8/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When it comes to scouting out a new bakery, pizzeria or noodle shop, there are few review sites that compare to Yelp. In turn, the reviews left on sites like Yelp can have a big effect on many restaurants' bottom lines.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That's created a huge incentive for businesses to write \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/alltechconsidered/2013/09/23/225455596/fake-reviewers-get-zero-stars-from-new-york-attorney-general\">fake positive reviews about themselves\u003c/a>, called \"astroturfing.\" Some fake reviews are written by the businesses, while others are produced in bulk by reputation management companies. Michael Luca of the Harvard Business School and Georgios Zervas of Boston University wanted to figure out the exact conditions under which companies have strongest incentive to leave a fake review.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Luca and Zervas analyzed 316,415 reviews for 3,625 Boston-area restaurants written between 2004 through 2012, all of which Yelp had already flagged as potentially fraudulent. These \"filtered\" reviews \u003ca href=\"http://officialblog.yelp.com/2013/09/fake-reviews-on-yelp-dont-worry-weve-got-your-back.html\">make up\u003c/a> about 25 percent of the 42 million total reviews submitted for all businesses. Of the filtered reviews, Luca and Zervas found 16 percent of reviews weren't legitimate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But defining fraudulence is tricky, especially since Luca and Zervas don't know exactly what makes Yelp's private algorithm tick. According to \u003ca href=\"http://ftc.gov/os/2009/10/091005revisedendorsementguides.pdf\">guidelines\u003c/a> from the Federal Trade Commission, a review written by the business owner, family members, competitors or a compensated reviewer would be considered false advertising. But an owner who encourages users to review his restaurant (and provides instructions) falls into a grey area.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Luca and Zervas' study, which is currently being reviewed by a journal for publication, draws a few large conclusions about who cheats and why. They found that restaurants that have a \"weak\" reputation (few and/or poor reviews) are more likely to boost their presence with fake positive reviews. Those that faced more regional competition might write positive reviews for themselves and leave negative reviews for competitors. Luca and Zervas also found that chain restaurants, which do not benefit greatly from Yelp, are less likely to commit review fraud.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Luca says he was surprised to find that ethics had nothing to do with it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"This type of decision was influenced by the amount of competition and incentives,\" he says. \"This wasn't just a story of a few rotten apples that were going to leave a bad review no matter what.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The number of posts Yelp has to filter has increased dramatically in its nine-year existence. Luca says its part of an \"arms race\" between the review sites and scammers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"People are finding increasing sophisticated ways to get around the algorithms,\" he says. And, as Zervas \u003ca href=\"http://www.bu.edu/today/2013/yelp-reviews-can-you-trust-them/\">told\u003c/a> Boston University, as more consumers make decisions with on crowd-sourced reviews, businesses have a higher incentive to cheat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But those developing the algorithms are also creating new tools that might make fake reviews less relevant in the first place. Luca's \u003ca href=\"http://www.theatlantic.com/magazine/archive/2013/07/youll-never-throw-up-in-this-town-again/309383/\" target=\"_blank\">next project\u003c/a> is working with health inspectors to tap into a restaurant's reviews and predict which ones might have hygiene violations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If a restaurant's Yelp page is branded with a \"pest infestation\" alert, it might be hard to distract with the fake review: \"Great nachos, fast service.\"\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>\u003cbr>\nCopyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Who’s Got the Best Pumpkin Ice Cream in the Bay Area?",
"title": "Who’s Got the Best Pumpkin Ice Cream in the Bay Area?",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>Just in time for Halloween, who's got the pumpkin-iest scoops in town? Unlike, say, \u003ca href=\"http://www.mcsweeneys.net/articles/an-open-letter-to-pumpkin-flavored-seasonal-treats\">pumpkin-spice lattes\u003c/a>--where the operative word is \u003cem>spice,\u003c/em> not pumpkin, as in \"the spices, like cinnamon, cloves, and nutmeg, that one would typically use to flavor a pumpkin dessert, rather than the pumpkin itself\"--pumpkin ice cream is the real deal, getting its golden, autumnal glow and earthy-sweet seasonal charm from actual pumpkin. Because if you think about it, pureed squash in your coffee, ick, but in your ice cream, oh yes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_73117\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/smitten-icecream1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/smitten-icecream1000.jpg\" alt=\"Maple Brown Sugar Squash, Smitten Ice Cream. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-73117\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Maple Brown Sugar Squash, Smitten Ice Cream. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca href=\"http://smittenicecream.com/\">Smitten Ice Cream\u003c/a>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>Before we tasted it, the frozen-to-order used by Smitten Ice Cream sounded like a high-tech gimmick. Would a sci-fi blast of liquid nitrogen really make better ice cream? But then we strolled down to the shipping-container-turned-sweet-shop in Hayes Valley and ordered up a scoop of \u003cstrong>Maple Brown Sugar Squash\u003c/strong>. A hefty spoonful of squash puree, a slug of creamy housemade ice cream base, a sudden burst of chilly, \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/KarlTheFog\">Karl-like fog\u003c/a>, and here was our winner, hands down: lusciously smooth, richly flavored but perfectly balanced, like the best pumpkin pie you've ever eaten, only better, and glazed with a maple-lemon syrup. But get it now--come November, it will be replaced by \u003cstrong>Cinnamon Apple Crisp\u003c/strong>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_73115\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/smitten-chalkboard1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/smitten-chalkboard1000.jpg\" alt=\"Smitten chalkboard. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-73115\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Smitten chalkboard. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_73118\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/smitten-counter1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/smitten-counter1000.jpg\" alt=\"Smitten counter. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-73118\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Smitten counter. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://smittenicecream.com/\">\u003cstrong>Smitten Ice Cream\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Address:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://goo.gl/maps/ym3ee\">[map]\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n432 Octavia St, #1A (at Linden St)\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94102\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Ph:\u003c/strong> (415) 863-1518\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Hours:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nMon-Thu 12pm – 10 pm\u003cbr>\nFri 12pm – 10:30 pm\u003cbr>\nSat 11:30am – 10:30pm\u003cbr>\nSun 11:30am – 10pm\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Facebook:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/SmittenIceCream\">Smitten Ice Cream\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Twitter:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/smittenicecream\">@SmittenIceCream\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_73148\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/pumpkincone-mitchells1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/pumpkincone-mitchells1000.jpg\" alt=\"Mitchell's Pumpkin cone. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-73148\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mitchell's Pumpkin cone. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca href=\"http://www.mitchellsicecream.com/\">Mitchell's\u003c/a>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>Once Smitten's squash has disappeared for the season, restore your necessary pumpkin joy at Mitchell's, which offers one of the longest-running \u003cstrong>Pumpkin\u003c/strong> ice cream experiences in the city. It's still the gold standard: creamy and full-flavored, with just the right hint of natural earthy sweetness (and nutmeg). It's a fall/winter mainstay at this 60-year-old neighborhood hangout, since it's always warmer (and sunnier) in the Mission, and perfect in a double scoop with their cinnamon-y \u003cstrong>Mexican Chocolate.\u003c/strong> \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_73147\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/mitchells-window1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/mitchells-window1000.jpg\" alt=\"Mitchell's storefront. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-73147\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mitchell's storefront. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.mitchellsicecream.com/\">\u003cstrong>Mitchell's\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Address:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://goo.gl/maps/FdYzi\">[map]\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n688 San Jose Ave. (at 29th St)\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94110\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Ph:\u003c/strong> (415) 648-2300\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Hours:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nMon-Sun 11am – 11 pm\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Facebook:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/pages/Mitchells-Ice-Cream/115681848447769\">Mitchell's Ice Cream\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Twitter:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/mitchellsicecre\">@MitchellsIceCre\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_73244\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/Pumpkin-birite600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/Pumpkin-birite600.jpg\" alt=\"Bi-Rite Creamery's Pumpkin Soft-Serve. Photo: Jessie Rogers\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-73244\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bi-Rite Creamery's Pumpkin Soft-Serve. Photo: Jessie Rogers\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca href=\"http://www.biritecreamery.com\">Bi-Rite Creamery\u003c/a>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>For something a little different, the mid-October arrival of Bi-Rite Creamery's \u003cstrong>Pumpkin Soft-Serve\u003c/strong> (Fridays only, paired with tangy \u003cstrong>Creme Fraiche\u003c/strong>) is always cause for seasonal celebration. The soft-serve window (which also sells popsicles, ice-cream sandwiches, cookies, and often, a very delicious hot chocolate) is the best-kept secret of the Bi-Rite universe. There's almost never a line, even while the queue at the Creamery nearby stretches to new-iPhone-release-day proportions. (The main Creamery is also offering a stellar regular pumpkin ice cream right now.) The texture is just right for Dairy Queen/Foster's Freeze nostalgia, but the two daily flavors on offer--like peanut butter and roasted banana, salted caramel and coffee, even plain old vanilla and chocolate--are much, much better. According to the staff, customers go nuts for this flavor, calling every day in early October to find out when it will be back on the menu. But familiarity breeds ennui, and sometime in January, it will have slipped away, quietly, until autumn returns some ten months later.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_73245\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/Pumpkin-birite800.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/Pumpkin-birite800.jpg\" alt=\"Happy Bi-Rite team member holding Bi-Rite Creamery's Pumpkin Soft-Serve. Photo: Jessie Rogers\" width=\"800\" height=\"719\" class=\"size-full wp-image-73245\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Happy Bi-Rite team member holding Bi-Rite Creamery's Pumpkin Soft-Serve. Photo: Jessie Rogers\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.biritecreamery.com\">\u003cstrong>Bi-Rite Creamery\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Address:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://goo.gl/maps/2uTgA\">[map]\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n3692 18th St (between Dolores and Guerrero Sts)\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94110\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Ph:\u003c/strong> (415) 648-2300\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Hours:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nMon-Fri 3pm – 9 pm\u003cbr>\nSat-Sun 1pm – 9 pm\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Facebook:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/biritecreamery\">Bi-Rite Creamery\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Twitter:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/biritesf\">@BiRiteSF\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_73114\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/pumpkin-ici1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/pumpkin-ici1000.jpg\" alt=\"Ici's Wrapped Pumpkin-Gingersnap Ice Cream Sandwich. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-73114\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ici's Wrapped Pumpkin-Gingersnap Ice Cream Sandwich. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca href=\"http://www.ici-icecream.com\">Ici\u003c/a>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>The short list of flavors at Elmwood's pretty little Ici shifts every day, but this month, \u003cstrong>Pumpkin\u003c/strong> is the popular kid. Lightly, mildly pumpkin-y, with bright spicing, you can try it in a hand-held gingersnap ice cream sandwich, or pair a scoop with another autumn-toasty flavor, like the brunch-worthy, pancake-ready \u003cstrong>Maple-Candied Bacon\u003c/strong> or the potent, nightcap-y \u003cstrong>Chicory Whiskey\u003c/strong>. (Note: Ici will be closed on Oct 31.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_73113\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/pumpkin-icecreamsand-ici1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/pumpkin-icecreamsand-ici1000.jpg\" alt=\"Ici's Pumpkin-Gingersnap Ice Cream Sandwich. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-73113\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ici's Pumpkin-Gingersnap Ice Cream Sandwich. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_73112\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/ici-outside1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/ici-outside1000.jpg\" alt=\"Ici exterior. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-73112\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ici exterior. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.ici-icecream.com\">\u003cstrong>Ici\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Address:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://goo.gl/maps/jbC0k\">[map]\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n2948 College Ave (between Ashby Ave and Russell St)\u003cbr>\nBerkeley, CA 94705\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Ph:\u003c/strong> (510) 665-6054\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Hours:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nMon-Thu 12pm – 9:30 pm\u003cbr>\nFri 12pm – 10 pm\u003cbr>\nSat-Sun 11am – 10 pm\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Facebook:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/icicream\">Ici Ice Cream\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Twitter:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/IciIceCream\">@IciIceCream\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca href=\"http://www.chowfoodbar.com\">Chow\u003c/a>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>But what if it's chilly and windy outside, and you'd like to sit down and wrap your hands around a steaming mug of coffee while you anticipate your ice cream's arrival? Whether it's February or August, April or November, \u003cstrong>Ginger Cake with Pumpkin Ice Cream\u003c/strong> is always on the dessert menu at the cozy, tavern-like \u003ca href=\"http://www.chowfoodbar.com\">Chow\u003c/a>. But this moist, molasses-y, noir-dark cake and its creamy pumpkin sidekick tastes best when the Halloween pumpkins are glowing. Not close to the Castro? The restaurant has additional locations in Danville, Lafayette, and San Francisco's Inner Sunset. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.chowfoodbar.com\">\u003cstrong>Chow\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Address:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://goo.gl/maps/eVYsp\">[map]\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n215 Church St (between Market and 15 Sts)\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94114\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Ph:\u003c/strong> (415) 552-2469\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Hours:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nSun-Thu 8am – 11pm\u003cbr>\nFri-Sat 8am – 12am\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cstrong>Who's got your favorite pumpkin ice cream? Let us know in the comments!\u003c/strong>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "BAB goes around the Bay to find out which scoop shop licks the competition for this favorite seasonal flavor. ",
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"title": "Who’s Got the Best Pumpkin Ice Cream in the Bay Area? | KQED",
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"headline": "Who’s Got the Best Pumpkin Ice Cream in the Bay Area?",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Just in time for Halloween, who's got the pumpkin-iest scoops in town? Unlike, say, \u003ca href=\"http://www.mcsweeneys.net/articles/an-open-letter-to-pumpkin-flavored-seasonal-treats\">pumpkin-spice lattes\u003c/a>--where the operative word is \u003cem>spice,\u003c/em> not pumpkin, as in \"the spices, like cinnamon, cloves, and nutmeg, that one would typically use to flavor a pumpkin dessert, rather than the pumpkin itself\"--pumpkin ice cream is the real deal, getting its golden, autumnal glow and earthy-sweet seasonal charm from actual pumpkin. Because if you think about it, pureed squash in your coffee, ick, but in your ice cream, oh yes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_73117\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/smitten-icecream1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/smitten-icecream1000.jpg\" alt=\"Maple Brown Sugar Squash, Smitten Ice Cream. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-73117\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Maple Brown Sugar Squash, Smitten Ice Cream. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca href=\"http://smittenicecream.com/\">Smitten Ice Cream\u003c/a>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>Before we tasted it, the frozen-to-order used by Smitten Ice Cream sounded like a high-tech gimmick. Would a sci-fi blast of liquid nitrogen really make better ice cream? But then we strolled down to the shipping-container-turned-sweet-shop in Hayes Valley and ordered up a scoop of \u003cstrong>Maple Brown Sugar Squash\u003c/strong>. A hefty spoonful of squash puree, a slug of creamy housemade ice cream base, a sudden burst of chilly, \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/KarlTheFog\">Karl-like fog\u003c/a>, and here was our winner, hands down: lusciously smooth, richly flavored but perfectly balanced, like the best pumpkin pie you've ever eaten, only better, and glazed with a maple-lemon syrup. But get it now--come November, it will be replaced by \u003cstrong>Cinnamon Apple Crisp\u003c/strong>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_73115\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/smitten-chalkboard1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/smitten-chalkboard1000.jpg\" alt=\"Smitten chalkboard. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-73115\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Smitten chalkboard. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_73118\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/smitten-counter1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/smitten-counter1000.jpg\" alt=\"Smitten counter. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-73118\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Smitten counter. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://smittenicecream.com/\">\u003cstrong>Smitten Ice Cream\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Address:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://goo.gl/maps/ym3ee\">[map]\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n432 Octavia St, #1A (at Linden St)\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94102\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Ph:\u003c/strong> (415) 863-1518\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Hours:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nMon-Thu 12pm – 10 pm\u003cbr>\nFri 12pm – 10:30 pm\u003cbr>\nSat 11:30am – 10:30pm\u003cbr>\nSun 11:30am – 10pm\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Facebook:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/SmittenIceCream\">Smitten Ice Cream\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Twitter:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/smittenicecream\">@SmittenIceCream\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_73148\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/pumpkincone-mitchells1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/pumpkincone-mitchells1000.jpg\" alt=\"Mitchell's Pumpkin cone. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-73148\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mitchell's Pumpkin cone. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca href=\"http://www.mitchellsicecream.com/\">Mitchell's\u003c/a>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>Once Smitten's squash has disappeared for the season, restore your necessary pumpkin joy at Mitchell's, which offers one of the longest-running \u003cstrong>Pumpkin\u003c/strong> ice cream experiences in the city. It's still the gold standard: creamy and full-flavored, with just the right hint of natural earthy sweetness (and nutmeg). It's a fall/winter mainstay at this 60-year-old neighborhood hangout, since it's always warmer (and sunnier) in the Mission, and perfect in a double scoop with their cinnamon-y \u003cstrong>Mexican Chocolate.\u003c/strong> \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_73147\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/mitchells-window1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/mitchells-window1000.jpg\" alt=\"Mitchell's storefront. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-73147\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mitchell's storefront. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.mitchellsicecream.com/\">\u003cstrong>Mitchell's\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Address:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://goo.gl/maps/FdYzi\">[map]\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n688 San Jose Ave. (at 29th St)\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94110\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Ph:\u003c/strong> (415) 648-2300\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Hours:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nMon-Sun 11am – 11 pm\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Facebook:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/pages/Mitchells-Ice-Cream/115681848447769\">Mitchell's Ice Cream\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Twitter:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/mitchellsicecre\">@MitchellsIceCre\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_73244\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/Pumpkin-birite600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/Pumpkin-birite600.jpg\" alt=\"Bi-Rite Creamery's Pumpkin Soft-Serve. Photo: Jessie Rogers\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-73244\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bi-Rite Creamery's Pumpkin Soft-Serve. Photo: Jessie Rogers\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca href=\"http://www.biritecreamery.com\">Bi-Rite Creamery\u003c/a>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>For something a little different, the mid-October arrival of Bi-Rite Creamery's \u003cstrong>Pumpkin Soft-Serve\u003c/strong> (Fridays only, paired with tangy \u003cstrong>Creme Fraiche\u003c/strong>) is always cause for seasonal celebration. The soft-serve window (which also sells popsicles, ice-cream sandwiches, cookies, and often, a very delicious hot chocolate) is the best-kept secret of the Bi-Rite universe. There's almost never a line, even while the queue at the Creamery nearby stretches to new-iPhone-release-day proportions. (The main Creamery is also offering a stellar regular pumpkin ice cream right now.) The texture is just right for Dairy Queen/Foster's Freeze nostalgia, but the two daily flavors on offer--like peanut butter and roasted banana, salted caramel and coffee, even plain old vanilla and chocolate--are much, much better. According to the staff, customers go nuts for this flavor, calling every day in early October to find out when it will be back on the menu. But familiarity breeds ennui, and sometime in January, it will have slipped away, quietly, until autumn returns some ten months later.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_73245\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/Pumpkin-birite800.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/Pumpkin-birite800.jpg\" alt=\"Happy Bi-Rite team member holding Bi-Rite Creamery's Pumpkin Soft-Serve. Photo: Jessie Rogers\" width=\"800\" height=\"719\" class=\"size-full wp-image-73245\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Happy Bi-Rite team member holding Bi-Rite Creamery's Pumpkin Soft-Serve. Photo: Jessie Rogers\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.biritecreamery.com\">\u003cstrong>Bi-Rite Creamery\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Address:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://goo.gl/maps/2uTgA\">[map]\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n3692 18th St (between Dolores and Guerrero Sts)\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94110\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Ph:\u003c/strong> (415) 648-2300\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Hours:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nMon-Fri 3pm – 9 pm\u003cbr>\nSat-Sun 1pm – 9 pm\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Facebook:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/biritecreamery\">Bi-Rite Creamery\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Twitter:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/biritesf\">@BiRiteSF\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_73114\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/pumpkin-ici1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/pumpkin-ici1000.jpg\" alt=\"Ici's Wrapped Pumpkin-Gingersnap Ice Cream Sandwich. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-73114\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ici's Wrapped Pumpkin-Gingersnap Ice Cream Sandwich. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca href=\"http://www.ici-icecream.com\">Ici\u003c/a>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>The short list of flavors at Elmwood's pretty little Ici shifts every day, but this month, \u003cstrong>Pumpkin\u003c/strong> is the popular kid. Lightly, mildly pumpkin-y, with bright spicing, you can try it in a hand-held gingersnap ice cream sandwich, or pair a scoop with another autumn-toasty flavor, like the brunch-worthy, pancake-ready \u003cstrong>Maple-Candied Bacon\u003c/strong> or the potent, nightcap-y \u003cstrong>Chicory Whiskey\u003c/strong>. (Note: Ici will be closed on Oct 31.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_73113\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/pumpkin-icecreamsand-ici1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/pumpkin-icecreamsand-ici1000.jpg\" alt=\"Ici's Pumpkin-Gingersnap Ice Cream Sandwich. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-73113\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ici's Pumpkin-Gingersnap Ice Cream Sandwich. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_73112\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/ici-outside1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/ici-outside1000.jpg\" alt=\"Ici exterior. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-73112\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ici exterior. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.ici-icecream.com\">\u003cstrong>Ici\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Address:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://goo.gl/maps/jbC0k\">[map]\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n2948 College Ave (between Ashby Ave and Russell St)\u003cbr>\nBerkeley, CA 94705\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Ph:\u003c/strong> (510) 665-6054\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Hours:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nMon-Thu 12pm – 9:30 pm\u003cbr>\nFri 12pm – 10 pm\u003cbr>\nSat-Sun 11am – 10 pm\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Facebook:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/icicream\">Ici Ice Cream\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Twitter:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/IciIceCream\">@IciIceCream\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca href=\"http://www.chowfoodbar.com\">Chow\u003c/a>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>But what if it's chilly and windy outside, and you'd like to sit down and wrap your hands around a steaming mug of coffee while you anticipate your ice cream's arrival? Whether it's February or August, April or November, \u003cstrong>Ginger Cake with Pumpkin Ice Cream\u003c/strong> is always on the dessert menu at the cozy, tavern-like \u003ca href=\"http://www.chowfoodbar.com\">Chow\u003c/a>. But this moist, molasses-y, noir-dark cake and its creamy pumpkin sidekick tastes best when the Halloween pumpkins are glowing. Not close to the Castro? The restaurant has additional locations in Danville, Lafayette, and San Francisco's Inner Sunset. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.chowfoodbar.com\">\u003cstrong>Chow\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Address:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://goo.gl/maps/eVYsp\">[map]\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n215 Church St (between Market and 15 Sts)\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94114\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Ph:\u003c/strong> (415) 552-2469\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Hours:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nSun-Thu 8am – 11pm\u003cbr>\nFri-Sat 8am – 12am\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cstrong>Who's got your favorite pumpkin ice cream? Let us know in the comments!\u003c/strong>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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