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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/meatballs.jpg\" alt=\"Cloudy with a Chance of Meatballs\" title=\"Cloudy with a Chance of Meatballs\" width=\"450\" height=\"338\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6011\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.cloudywithachanceofmeatballs.com\">\u003ci>Cloudy with a Chance of Meatballs\u003c/i>\u003c/a> -- a movie based on the children's book of the same name by Judi and Ron Barrett -- might very well be the next \u003ci>Ratatouille\u003c/i> for mini foodies and their parents.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I don't think they'll be calling in Thomas Keller for a culinary consult, but I do know that \u003ci>Cloudy...\u003c/i> is one of my husband's favorite childhood books, and I think a movie treatment is genius. I was initially a little nervous to hear the movie wasn't coming from Pixar. However, after watching the \u003ca href=\"http://www.imdb.com/video/imdb/vi718340633/\">Sony trailer\u003c/a>, my nerves are totally dispelled, and I can't wait to see it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Clearly, it won't be exactly like the book. In fact, it appears the writers used the book more as a jumping off point rather than copying it verbatim, which makes sense because the book is really just a grandfather regaling his grandchildren with stories about a town that would easily beat out San Francisco and New York for best eating. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The movie takes this concept a step further by inventing individual characters, like Flint Lockwood -- the inventor who is responsible for turning his town into a culinary mecca with all sorts of foodstuffs falling from the sky -- and other townspeople, who get caught up in the euphoria and insanity of experiencing manna in a non-biblical sense.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Cloudy with a Chance of Meatballs\u003c/i> is due out September 18th, but in the meantime, all this talk of meatballs has gotten me hungry, so here's a roundup of my five favorite meatballs in the Bay Area. You might want to think about dining at one or all before seeing the movie to combat any meatball envy you're sure to experience during the movie. Better yet, see if you can sneak some meatball action into the theatre with you.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.a16sf.com/\">A16\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nMeatballs available only on Mondays.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2355 Chestnut Street\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.mayfieldbakery.com/\">Mayfield Cafe and Bakery\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nWood-oven baked meatballs available from the lunch menu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Town & Country Village\u003cbr>\n855 El Camino Real\u003cbr>\nPalo Alto, CA \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://pizzeriadelfina.com/pacificHeights.html\">Pizzeria Delfina\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nNeapoletan meatballs in sugo only at their California Street location.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2406 California Street\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.berettasf.com/\">Beretta\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nMeatballs in a spicy tomato sauce available from their antipasti menu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1199 Valencia Street\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://bit.ly/GHqs4\">Saigon Sandwich\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nThe vietnamese meatball sandwich -- bánh mì -- is a perfect storm of flavors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>560 Larkin St\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you want to make your own meatballs, I've found that \u003ca href=\"http://simplyrecipes.com/recipes/meatballs_with_ricotta_in_tomato_sauce/\">the recipe\u003c/a> Simply Recipes adapted from A16's original to be quite wonderful.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Finally, no piece about meatballs could go by without this little delight:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cobject width=\"425\" height=\"344\">\u003cparam name=\"movie\" value=\"http://www.youtube.com/v/-JytbHDRG0U&hl=en&fs=1&\">\u003cparam name=\"allowFullScreen\" value=\"true\">\u003cparam name=\"allowscriptaccess\" value=\"always\">\u003cembed src=\"http://www.youtube.com/v/-JytbHDRG0U&hl=en&fs=1&\" type=\"application/x-shockwave-flash\" allowscriptaccess=\"always\" allowfullscreen=\"true\" width=\"425\" height=\"344\">\u003c/embed>\u003c/object>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Cloudy with a Chance of Meatballs\u003c/i> is due out September 18th, but in the meantime, all this talk of meatballs has gotten me hungry, so here's a roundup of my five favorite meatballs in the Bay Area. You might want to think about dining at one or all before seeing the movie to combat any meatball envy you're sure to experience during the movie. Better yet, see if you can sneak some meatball action into the theatre with you.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.a16sf.com/\">A16\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nMeatballs available only on Mondays.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2355 Chestnut Street\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.mayfieldbakery.com/\">Mayfield Cafe and Bakery\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nWood-oven baked meatballs available from the lunch menu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Town & Country Village\u003cbr>\n855 El Camino Real\u003cbr>\nPalo Alto, CA \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://pizzeriadelfina.com/pacificHeights.html\">Pizzeria Delfina\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nNeapoletan meatballs in sugo only at their California Street location.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2406 California Street\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.berettasf.com/\">Beretta\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nMeatballs in a spicy tomato sauce available from their antipasti menu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1199 Valencia Street\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://bit.ly/GHqs4\">Saigon Sandwich\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nThe vietnamese meatball sandwich -- bánh mì -- is a perfect storm of flavors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>560 Larkin St\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you want to make your own meatballs, I've found that \u003ca href=\"http://simplyrecipes.com/recipes/meatballs_with_ricotta_in_tomato_sauce/\">the recipe\u003c/a> Simply Recipes adapted from A16's original to be quite wonderful.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Finally, no piece about meatballs could go by without this little delight:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cobject width=\"425\" height=\"344\">\u003cparam name=\"movie\" value=\"http://www.youtube.com/v/-JytbHDRG0U&hl=en&fs=1&\">\u003cparam name=\"allowFullScreen\" value=\"true\">\u003cparam name=\"allowscriptaccess\" value=\"always\">\u003cembed src=\"http://www.youtube.com/v/-JytbHDRG0U&hl=en&fs=1&\" type=\"application/x-shockwave-flash\" allowscriptaccess=\"always\" allowfullscreen=\"true\" width=\"425\" height=\"344\">\u003c/embed>\u003c/object>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Cocktail Culture at SF Chefs. Food. Wine",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/cocktails500.jpg\" alt=\"cocktails\" title=\"cocktails\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5846\">\u003cbr>\n10:30 a.m. on a weekday morning is not my usual cocktail hour. But with a cheerful \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfchefsfoodwine.com/\">SF Chefs. Food. Wine\u003c/a> volunteer saying \"Breakfast is served!\" as he placed a cute pink drink in front of me, well, what could I do? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was, after all, educational. The drink was a raspberry rum daisy, made with white rum, lemon, and raspberries, an olden-days cocktail made artisanally up-to-date through the use of small-batch Caribbean-style Baptiste rum and a locally made fruit syrup sweetened with raw cane sugar and thickened with gum arabic, that secret weapon of molecular gastronomy. And the occasion was Cocktails Get Into the Mix , an exploration of the past and present state of West Coast cocktail culture, moderated by \u003ca href=\"http://www.alcademics.com\">Alcademics\u003c/a> editor Camper English. In conversation with English was Duggan McDonnell of Cantina and Thad Vogler of the upcoming Bar Agricole. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Drawing a contrast between the technique-obsessed, traditionalist, authenticity-driven New York style of places like Milk and Honey, Death & Co. and the more free-wheeling, flavor-inspired California vibe, Duggan laughed, admitting, \"We're more of a hot mess behind the bar.\" But both Vogler and McDonnell gave New York City its props, saying they'd both learned a tremendous amount about how even the simplest decisions--what sort of ice to use, whether to double-strain (using a cocktail strainer first, a fine tea strainer second)--can make a dramatic difference in the final result. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But, much like our restaurants, the current West Coast cocktail scene is driven by the extensive, year-round availability of amazing produce. \"We eat and drink incredibly well here, we're tasting things constantly,\" noted McDonnell, who connects this vibrant, terrior-driven food culture with the rise in inventive, market-driven cocktail menus. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These drinks may look simple, but much of the work happens after hours, with bartenders simmering their own herb- or spice-infused syrups, amassing collections of quirky amari (the bitter digestive liqueurs beloved by true cocktail geeks), even growing (or bartering for) herbs, fruits, or seasonings. For bartenders less interested in getting in touch with their inner chef, there's \u003ca href=\"http://www.smallhandfoods.com\">Small Hand Foods\u003c/a> run by Jennifer Colliau, a bartender at the Slanted Door, whose Berkeley-based company creates \"classic ingredients for pre-prohibition cocktails,\" including grenadine, gum syrup, orgeat, and pineapple and raspberry syrups. All are made in small batches using raw cane sugar (no corn syrup) and no artificial ingredients. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As the group of us sipped our rosy daisies (flavored with Colliau's raspberry gum syrup), Vogler pointed out the difficulty of sourcing spirits that haven't come though the big industrial distillers. Even small-batch labels often buy their base spirit--neutral alcohols usually derived from grain--from big producers, then redistill, infuse and flavor it to their own specifications. This, he noted, was behind the simple but surprisingly \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/blogs/mbauer/legacycomments?blogid=26&entry_id=29001\">inflammatory decision\u003c/a> of Oakland's Camino restaurant to yank vodka from their bar menu, instead carrying only a small selection of spirits and seasonal ingredients. (They've since found a small distillery that meets their standards.) When California-grown limes weren't available, the bar used lemons. This caused quite a stir in the press and blogosphere around town, as diners happy to dig into free-range rabbit and sustainable sardines were incensed at not being able to order their usual vodka tonic. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You have to throw out a lot of stuff if you decide not use anything with artificial flavors or colors, or high-fructose corn syrup,\" said Vogler, who worked on Camino's cocktail program. That meant no Campari, no maraschino cherries, almost none of the usual fizzy mixers. It's annoying sometimes, admits Vogler, but also fun, more like being a pastry chef with 5 or 6 creations a day than a typical bartender. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another difference in the East Coast/West Coast throwdown: the pervasive Latin and Asian influences here, and the predominance of tequila, sake, soju and other similar liquors here in lieu of the whiskeys, bourbons, port and sherries more popular in New York. At Cantina, McDonnell noted, the two most popular cocktails are Asian-Latin mashups: the 5-Spice Margarita, and the Latin Buddha, which blends Buddha's Hand citrus vodka with serrano chiles and ginger beer. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A lengthy cocktail competition during the midday food-and-wine tasting seemed to prove nearly all these points. In an Iron-Chef-styled move, the 3 bartenders had to whip up, on the spot, an original cocktail featuring a secret ingredient. The ingredient? Fresh herbs, from dill and rosemary to purple basil and fennel flowers and sage. The winner, Nick Varacalli's \"Pass me the lemon, honey\" matched lemon thyme with honey-sweetened bourbon, a bit of Canton ginger liqueur, fresh lemon, sweet vermouth, and bitters. A little fresh, a little sweet, a little bitter, and some herb to top it off: what could be more Californian? \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As the group of us sipped our rosy daisies (flavored with Colliau's raspberry gum syrup), Vogler pointed out the difficulty of sourcing spirits that haven't come though the big industrial distillers. Even small-batch labels often buy their base spirit--neutral alcohols usually derived from grain--from big producers, then redistill, infuse and flavor it to their own specifications. This, he noted, was behind the simple but surprisingly \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/blogs/mbauer/legacycomments?blogid=26&entry_id=29001\">inflammatory decision\u003c/a> of Oakland's Camino restaurant to yank vodka from their bar menu, instead carrying only a small selection of spirits and seasonal ingredients. (They've since found a small distillery that meets their standards.) When California-grown limes weren't available, the bar used lemons. This caused quite a stir in the press and blogosphere around town, as diners happy to dig into free-range rabbit and sustainable sardines were incensed at not being able to order their usual vodka tonic. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You have to throw out a lot of stuff if you decide not use anything with artificial flavors or colors, or high-fructose corn syrup,\" said Vogler, who worked on Camino's cocktail program. That meant no Campari, no maraschino cherries, almost none of the usual fizzy mixers. It's annoying sometimes, admits Vogler, but also fun, more like being a pastry chef with 5 or 6 creations a day than a typical bartender. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another difference in the East Coast/West Coast throwdown: the pervasive Latin and Asian influences here, and the predominance of tequila, sake, soju and other similar liquors here in lieu of the whiskeys, bourbons, port and sherries more popular in New York. At Cantina, McDonnell noted, the two most popular cocktails are Asian-Latin mashups: the 5-Spice Margarita, and the Latin Buddha, which blends Buddha's Hand citrus vodka with serrano chiles and ginger beer. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A lengthy cocktail competition during the midday food-and-wine tasting seemed to prove nearly all these points. In an Iron-Chef-styled move, the 3 bartenders had to whip up, on the spot, an original cocktail featuring a secret ingredient. The ingredient? Fresh herbs, from dill and rosemary to purple basil and fennel flowers and sage. The winner, Nick Varacalli's \"Pass me the lemon, honey\" matched lemon thyme with honey-sweetened bourbon, a bit of Canton ginger liqueur, fresh lemon, sweet vermouth, and bitters. A little fresh, a little sweet, a little bitter, and some herb to top it off: what could be more Californian? \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "What The Schmidt Is This? (At The Hop)",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/outside500.jpg\" alt=\"Outside of Schmidts looking in to the restaurant\" title=\"Outside of Schmidts looking in to the restaurant\" width=\"500\" height=\"332\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5485\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Outside of Schmidt's looking into restaurant. Photo by Aimee Shapiro\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One day last week, the lady and I had plans to visit \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/schmidts-san-francisco-2\">Schmidt's\u003c/a> for dinner. When we're deciding what to eat, we tend to favor collaboration and compromise, at least I do. Sometimes, rarely, our tastes don't intersect, and I always want to find dishes we both want, even if it means passing on something I'd really, really like to try. In the case of Schmidt's, a sleek, two month-old German eatery in the Mission District, I knew what I wanted, and would accept no proxies: hasenpfeffer, a red wine-soaked saddle and leg of rabbit with braised lingonberry-sweetened cabbage. In the hours leading up to our meals together, we typically examine menus online and discuss what appeals via texts and emails. Frequently, we have a pretty good idea of what we'll order before we walk through the restaurant's doors. On this occasion, I'd done my research, and knew, without question, that I had to hit that hop. The problem was, I wasn't so sure my lady would \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o2OxLyts-zE\">dance with me\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I positioned myself accordingly. At around 1:00 p.m., I sent off a quick text:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Was thinking about bunny. Now not so sure.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Her swift response, even more succinct, confirmed my fears: \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>I will not eat the bun.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Disappointed yet far from resigned, I honed a strategy. It was too early for negotiations. I ate lunch and crafted a diversionary text, giving the impression I was feeling flexible and perhaps willing to eat something else altogether:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Salad good. Still hungry. Tonight maybe fish if on special.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rabbit is a polarizing meat. The world is full of people like my lady: hyper-carnivorous, adventurous gourmets who gleefully inhale piles of Korean barbecue, fried chicken dinners, and entire flocks in the form of steaming shawarmas, yet turn meek and wane at the prospect of the Easter Bunny, sauteed, on a plate. Rabbits are cute but surely no cuter than fuzzy sheep, baby chickens, and pink piglets -- cuddly creatures we're generally more comfortable cooing over and then, respectfully, consuming. Rabbits are also pets, but even those of us who have never fed and groomed one feel as if we know them. From folklore-steeped tricksters \u003ca href=\"http://4and20blackbirds.files.wordpress.com/2009/05/bugs-bunny.jpg\">Bugs\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.mamalisa.com/images/mother_goose/brer_rabbit_sm.gif\">Bre'er\u003c/a>, to \u003ca href=\"http://disney-clipart.com/bambi/jpg/Thumper-1-lg.jpg\">Thumper\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.alice-in-wonderland.net/alicepic/disney-movie/white-rabbit-with-watch-3.jpg\">Alice's elusive White\u003c/a>, and the whole floppy-eared cast of \u003ca href=\"http://a6.vox.com/6a00c2251eda00f21900e398a8b6060004-500pi\">Watership Down\u003c/a>, the rabbit has an enduring and frequently anthropomorphized presence in popular culture, one that surpasses those of other commonly eaten animals. In whatever form, such familiar images, voices, stories, and carried connotations grip folks, and that, more than a real rabbit's bobbing tail, vacuous little eye-specks, and pink twitching nose, contributes to the skittishness diners display when there's hare to be had.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In many cultures, rabbits are a symbol of fertility and rebirth. They're associated with the season Spring and, of course, Easter. In real-life, they're viewed as gentle, vegetarian, harmless, and, despite their breeding proclivities, somehow suggestive of innocence. However, to gardeners like my mother in Louisville, Kentucky, they are far from innocent or harmless; they are a nuisance, a virulent menace fond of hopping, rustling and sniffing, through the backyard shrubbery every April to terrorize lettuce, cucumbers, squash, beans, herbs, and flowers. My mom doesn't hunt or even eat meat, but I doubt she'd mind if \u003ca href=\"http://www.hcdigest.com/assets/Doug%20Howlett/elmer_fudd.jpg\">Elmer Fudd\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.acmeanimation.com/w00082.gif\">Yosemite Sam\u003c/a> showed up one year, shotguns at the ready, to declare war on her tormentors, and keep the neighborhood bistro stocked with lapin all summer long.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Back in San Francisco, it was 6:30 p.m. My lady and I rolled into Schmidt's, ravenous. As I'd suspected, there was no fish on special. My lady wanted a sausage, which was fine by me. We had to find another entree. I knew exactly what that had to be but I had to bide my time. If she sensed my profound resolve, she did not let on.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I just don't think I can do it,\" she said, her eyes peering out, just barely visible above the menu held in front of her face.\u003cbr>\n\"Do what?\" I asked, feigning cluelessness.\u003cbr>\n\"The bunny,\" she said, sighing. \"I'm sure it's amazing, but I don't want to eat it.\"\u003cbr>\n\"It's cool,\" I answered, sort of shrugging lightly and waving my hands as if I didn't care. \"No bunny, no problem. I'll get a sausage too, maybe the duck one.\"\u003cbr>\n\"Two sausages? They don't make the sausages here. If you're writing about this, we should get something they make here too,\" she said, ignoring my \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u14T5wzicqw\">allusion\u003c/a>.\u003cbr>\n\"Well, I don't want blood sausage or the veal,\" I countered, gesturing towards the listing for an egg-topped schnitzel festooned with white anchovies, capers, and cauliflower. It was time to play hardball, to throw down cards, and make a final, decisive play. \"I'm getting the rabbit,\" I said, folding my menu and reaching for the beer list. \"Will you eat it?\" I didn't look up as I spoke, trying to appear focused on selecting an appropriate brew.\u003cbr>\nThere was a pause. \"Hell yes.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> And so, maneuvering ceased; we were eating rabbit. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the classic 1949 cartoon \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cLZ3HdRFBs8\">Bowery Bugs\u003c/a>, Bugs Bunny, pacing in circles around his den, carrot in mid-gnaw, makes, in that distinctive, chattering, Flatbush bark, his case for survival to a downtrodden New York City bookie in search of a good luck charm. \"These rabbit's feet never brought me any luck,\" Bugs points out, pleading. \"Look at the lives rabbits lead: Dogs, hunters, and hasenpfeffer.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/rabbit500.jpg\" alt=\"rabbit\" title=\"rabbit\" width=\"500\" height=\"332\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5491\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Hasenpfeffer, a red wine-soaked saddle and leg of rabbit with braised lingonberry-sweetened cabbage. Photo by Aimee Shapiro\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bugs could use some perspective. If the version at Schmidt's serves as any indication, hassenpfeffer is an unpretentious yet noble and exceedingly delicious way for a rabbit to end up. For a goofy, unintelligent, nervous wreck of a mammal, this beast sure tastes serious, deep, and soulful after a trip through chef Matt Shapiro's kitchen. Sweet shards of pale meat tumble off delicate bones rising up from a creamy, golden moat of rich sauce, a purple mountain of cabbage looming behind. The \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.sfweekly.com/foodie/2009/07/local_flavor_braised_rabbit_an.php\">picture\u003c/a> currently floating around the Internet (to be fair, in the company of a positive, well-crafted mention) unfortunately makes Shapiro's hassenpfeffer look like a symptom of an obscure, unsavory medical condition, or something from one of the \u003ca href=\"http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/c/c3/Alien_movie_poster.jpg\">Alien\u003c/a> movies, a mound of extraterrestrial dung, perhaps. I sympathize. My first crack at pictures in the restaurant's dark dining room turned out so badly I had to outsource art to a real photographer. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/beansalad500.jpg\" alt=\"Bean Salad\" title=\"Bean Salad\" width=\"500\" height=\"350\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5488\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Bean Salad. Photo by Aimee Shapiro\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The rabbit was the defining triumph but not so magnificent as to obscure the rest of the meal: an excellent Thuringer brat, snappy and juicy, best with a touch of an amazing sweet mustard (Schmidt's sells it, along with other German products such as mini-wieners, bottled, floating in water), a subtle, nutty, toothsome salad of green and waxed bean strips with hazelnuts, fried sage, and a citrus vinaigrette, and spaetzle, sans cheese, in fluffy, mild strands, like scrambled eggs colliding with a bowl of cereal -- in a good way. Far from the sort of heavily branded hot-spot designed to lure diners from around the city, Schmidt's is a new neighborhood gem the neighborhood can actually afford -- truly, simply, a very fine place to eat, much like \u003ca href=\"http://www.walzwerk.com/\">Walzwerk\u003c/a>, the owners' first restaurant, though more austere in appearance, with better food. We ordered some bread too, with the idea we'd use it to sop up every last bit of rabbit essence. This was unnecessary. The rabbit came with plenty of bread, the dense, heavy German sort. Unlike less refined purveyors of wurst, Schmidt's doesn't bludgeon you with excessive portions. Bread abuse in the line of duty -- respect for the rabbit's last luscious remnants -- caused me to walk at a 45 degree angle all the way home, stuffed, my body unable to conjure energy for any task beyond digestion. Yet even as I limped, 'kraut-addled, harebrained, breaded, and in need of a comfortable chair, part of me wanted to head back, to find a way to eat some more rabbit. To rock it, to roll it, slop it, and stroll it, once again -- \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o2OxLyts-zE\">at the hop\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/schmidts-san-francisco-2\">Schmidt's\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n2400 Folsom St\u003cbr>\n(between 20th St & 21st St)\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94110\u003cbr>\n(415) 401-0200\u003cbr>\n*Cash only \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "One day last week, the lady and I had plans to visit Schmidt's for dinner. When we're deciding what to eat, we tend to favor collaboration and compromise, at least I do. Sometimes, rarely, our tastes don't intersect, and I always want to find dishes we both want, even if it means passing on something I'd really, really like to try. In the case of Schmidt's, a sleek, two month-old German eatery in the Mission District, I knew what I wanted, and would accept no proxies: hasenpfeffer, a red wine-soaked saddle and leg of rabbit with braised lingonberry-sweetened cabbage. ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/outside500.jpg\" alt=\"Outside of Schmidts looking in to the restaurant\" title=\"Outside of Schmidts looking in to the restaurant\" width=\"500\" height=\"332\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5485\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Outside of Schmidt's looking into restaurant. Photo by Aimee Shapiro\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One day last week, the lady and I had plans to visit \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/schmidts-san-francisco-2\">Schmidt's\u003c/a> for dinner. When we're deciding what to eat, we tend to favor collaboration and compromise, at least I do. Sometimes, rarely, our tastes don't intersect, and I always want to find dishes we both want, even if it means passing on something I'd really, really like to try. In the case of Schmidt's, a sleek, two month-old German eatery in the Mission District, I knew what I wanted, and would accept no proxies: hasenpfeffer, a red wine-soaked saddle and leg of rabbit with braised lingonberry-sweetened cabbage. In the hours leading up to our meals together, we typically examine menus online and discuss what appeals via texts and emails. Frequently, we have a pretty good idea of what we'll order before we walk through the restaurant's doors. On this occasion, I'd done my research, and knew, without question, that I had to hit that hop. The problem was, I wasn't so sure my lady would \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o2OxLyts-zE\">dance with me\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I positioned myself accordingly. At around 1:00 p.m., I sent off a quick text:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Was thinking about bunny. Now not so sure.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Her swift response, even more succinct, confirmed my fears: \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>I will not eat the bun.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Disappointed yet far from resigned, I honed a strategy. It was too early for negotiations. I ate lunch and crafted a diversionary text, giving the impression I was feeling flexible and perhaps willing to eat something else altogether:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Salad good. Still hungry. Tonight maybe fish if on special.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rabbit is a polarizing meat. The world is full of people like my lady: hyper-carnivorous, adventurous gourmets who gleefully inhale piles of Korean barbecue, fried chicken dinners, and entire flocks in the form of steaming shawarmas, yet turn meek and wane at the prospect of the Easter Bunny, sauteed, on a plate. Rabbits are cute but surely no cuter than fuzzy sheep, baby chickens, and pink piglets -- cuddly creatures we're generally more comfortable cooing over and then, respectfully, consuming. Rabbits are also pets, but even those of us who have never fed and groomed one feel as if we know them. From folklore-steeped tricksters \u003ca href=\"http://4and20blackbirds.files.wordpress.com/2009/05/bugs-bunny.jpg\">Bugs\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.mamalisa.com/images/mother_goose/brer_rabbit_sm.gif\">Bre'er\u003c/a>, to \u003ca href=\"http://disney-clipart.com/bambi/jpg/Thumper-1-lg.jpg\">Thumper\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.alice-in-wonderland.net/alicepic/disney-movie/white-rabbit-with-watch-3.jpg\">Alice's elusive White\u003c/a>, and the whole floppy-eared cast of \u003ca href=\"http://a6.vox.com/6a00c2251eda00f21900e398a8b6060004-500pi\">Watership Down\u003c/a>, the rabbit has an enduring and frequently anthropomorphized presence in popular culture, one that surpasses those of other commonly eaten animals. In whatever form, such familiar images, voices, stories, and carried connotations grip folks, and that, more than a real rabbit's bobbing tail, vacuous little eye-specks, and pink twitching nose, contributes to the skittishness diners display when there's hare to be had.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In many cultures, rabbits are a symbol of fertility and rebirth. They're associated with the season Spring and, of course, Easter. In real-life, they're viewed as gentle, vegetarian, harmless, and, despite their breeding proclivities, somehow suggestive of innocence. However, to gardeners like my mother in Louisville, Kentucky, they are far from innocent or harmless; they are a nuisance, a virulent menace fond of hopping, rustling and sniffing, through the backyard shrubbery every April to terrorize lettuce, cucumbers, squash, beans, herbs, and flowers. My mom doesn't hunt or even eat meat, but I doubt she'd mind if \u003ca href=\"http://www.hcdigest.com/assets/Doug%20Howlett/elmer_fudd.jpg\">Elmer Fudd\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.acmeanimation.com/w00082.gif\">Yosemite Sam\u003c/a> showed up one year, shotguns at the ready, to declare war on her tormentors, and keep the neighborhood bistro stocked with lapin all summer long.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Back in San Francisco, it was 6:30 p.m. My lady and I rolled into Schmidt's, ravenous. As I'd suspected, there was no fish on special. My lady wanted a sausage, which was fine by me. We had to find another entree. I knew exactly what that had to be but I had to bide my time. If she sensed my profound resolve, she did not let on.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I just don't think I can do it,\" she said, her eyes peering out, just barely visible above the menu held in front of her face.\u003cbr>\n\"Do what?\" I asked, feigning cluelessness.\u003cbr>\n\"The bunny,\" she said, sighing. \"I'm sure it's amazing, but I don't want to eat it.\"\u003cbr>\n\"It's cool,\" I answered, sort of shrugging lightly and waving my hands as if I didn't care. \"No bunny, no problem. I'll get a sausage too, maybe the duck one.\"\u003cbr>\n\"Two sausages? They don't make the sausages here. If you're writing about this, we should get something they make here too,\" she said, ignoring my \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u14T5wzicqw\">allusion\u003c/a>.\u003cbr>\n\"Well, I don't want blood sausage or the veal,\" I countered, gesturing towards the listing for an egg-topped schnitzel festooned with white anchovies, capers, and cauliflower. It was time to play hardball, to throw down cards, and make a final, decisive play. \"I'm getting the rabbit,\" I said, folding my menu and reaching for the beer list. \"Will you eat it?\" I didn't look up as I spoke, trying to appear focused on selecting an appropriate brew.\u003cbr>\nThere was a pause. \"Hell yes.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> And so, maneuvering ceased; we were eating rabbit. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the classic 1949 cartoon \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cLZ3HdRFBs8\">Bowery Bugs\u003c/a>, Bugs Bunny, pacing in circles around his den, carrot in mid-gnaw, makes, in that distinctive, chattering, Flatbush bark, his case for survival to a downtrodden New York City bookie in search of a good luck charm. \"These rabbit's feet never brought me any luck,\" Bugs points out, pleading. \"Look at the lives rabbits lead: Dogs, hunters, and hasenpfeffer.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/rabbit500.jpg\" alt=\"rabbit\" title=\"rabbit\" width=\"500\" height=\"332\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5491\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Hasenpfeffer, a red wine-soaked saddle and leg of rabbit with braised lingonberry-sweetened cabbage. Photo by Aimee Shapiro\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bugs could use some perspective. If the version at Schmidt's serves as any indication, hassenpfeffer is an unpretentious yet noble and exceedingly delicious way for a rabbit to end up. For a goofy, unintelligent, nervous wreck of a mammal, this beast sure tastes serious, deep, and soulful after a trip through chef Matt Shapiro's kitchen. Sweet shards of pale meat tumble off delicate bones rising up from a creamy, golden moat of rich sauce, a purple mountain of cabbage looming behind. The \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.sfweekly.com/foodie/2009/07/local_flavor_braised_rabbit_an.php\">picture\u003c/a> currently floating around the Internet (to be fair, in the company of a positive, well-crafted mention) unfortunately makes Shapiro's hassenpfeffer look like a symptom of an obscure, unsavory medical condition, or something from one of the \u003ca href=\"http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/c/c3/Alien_movie_poster.jpg\">Alien\u003c/a> movies, a mound of extraterrestrial dung, perhaps. I sympathize. My first crack at pictures in the restaurant's dark dining room turned out so badly I had to outsource art to a real photographer. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/beansalad500.jpg\" alt=\"Bean Salad\" title=\"Bean Salad\" width=\"500\" height=\"350\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5488\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Bean Salad. Photo by Aimee Shapiro\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The rabbit was the defining triumph but not so magnificent as to obscure the rest of the meal: an excellent Thuringer brat, snappy and juicy, best with a touch of an amazing sweet mustard (Schmidt's sells it, along with other German products such as mini-wieners, bottled, floating in water), a subtle, nutty, toothsome salad of green and waxed bean strips with hazelnuts, fried sage, and a citrus vinaigrette, and spaetzle, sans cheese, in fluffy, mild strands, like scrambled eggs colliding with a bowl of cereal -- in a good way. Far from the sort of heavily branded hot-spot designed to lure diners from around the city, Schmidt's is a new neighborhood gem the neighborhood can actually afford -- truly, simply, a very fine place to eat, much like \u003ca href=\"http://www.walzwerk.com/\">Walzwerk\u003c/a>, the owners' first restaurant, though more austere in appearance, with better food. We ordered some bread too, with the idea we'd use it to sop up every last bit of rabbit essence. This was unnecessary. The rabbit came with plenty of bread, the dense, heavy German sort. Unlike less refined purveyors of wurst, Schmidt's doesn't bludgeon you with excessive portions. Bread abuse in the line of duty -- respect for the rabbit's last luscious remnants -- caused me to walk at a 45 degree angle all the way home, stuffed, my body unable to conjure energy for any task beyond digestion. Yet even as I limped, 'kraut-addled, harebrained, breaded, and in need of a comfortable chair, part of me wanted to head back, to find a way to eat some more rabbit. To rock it, to roll it, slop it, and stroll it, once again -- \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o2OxLyts-zE\">at the hop\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/schmidts-san-francisco-2\">Schmidt's\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n2400 Folsom St\u003cbr>\n(between 20th St & 21st St)\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94110\u003cbr>\n(415) 401-0200\u003cbr>\n*Cash only \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>It was the season of sauce, it was the season of toppings. It was the spring of onions, it was the sausage of despair. We had pies before us, we had crusts before us.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/taleza300.jpg\" alt=\"A Tale of Two Pizzas\" title=\"A Tale of Two Pizzas\" width=\"300\" height=\"290\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-5234\">No lesser authority than The New York Times says artisanal pizza is on the rise. Just last week, the Gray Lady \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2009/07/08/dining/08pizza.html?ref=dining/\">blew the trend up\u003c/a>, making a case for the elegantly appointed pizzeria as a cost-conscious diner's best bet amid rotten economic circumstances. In San Francisco, this sub-genre of the pizza form is currently encroaching on the Mission District's once-fior di latte-less expanse with great success. \u003ca href=\"http://www.pizzeriadelfina.com/\">Pizzeria Delfina\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://berettasf.com/\">Beretta\u003c/a> are delicious examples of what's sizzling in Burritoland, though only the former would probably describe itself as a pizzeria first and foremost. \u003ca href=\"http://flourandwater.com/about/\">Flour + Water\u003c/a> just opened on Harrison in the last few months, serving pasta, salumi, and a familiar stripe of 'za: smallish, thin-crusted rounds decked out in classic and occasionally inventive combinations of toppings with a traditional bent and heavy, local-centric nods to seasonality. As if that weren't enough upscale crust and cheese to blanket a few square miles of coveted real estate, \u003ca href=\"http://pibarsf.com/\">Pi Bar\u003c/a> will soon start slinging (whole pies and cheese slices for, ha ha, $3.14) on Valencia near 25th, at a renovated space once home to Suriya Thai.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You might not have heard, but in Fall of 2008, \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfpizzeria.com/\">Pizzeria\u003c/a> opened its doors on a humming stretch of Valencia Street, not far from its intersection with 18th. As of press time, the establishment has garnered \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/pizzeria-san-francisco#hrid:7Wq8aFWDcrtU6ayjSjOJMQ/src:search/query:pizzeria\">45 reviews\u003c/a> on Yelp, most of them quite positive. Yet, for all the times I've wandered past its wide windows, I've never seen a customer populating one of the dining room's handsome circular wooden tables. I've stared at the menu. I've contemplated the helpful photographs of Pizzeria's offerings pasted to the front window. I've watched cooks bustle, a waiter mop, and a manager meticulously refill and reposition jars of red pepper flakes on the long counter, but, never, not once, have I witnessed a person, sitting down, napkin on lap, actually tucking into a plate of anything. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And I've always wondered why. Location could not be the problem. Valencia is a major thoroughfare for night-time revelers and day-time shoppers. The product itself is not immediately suspect either. It's pizza, after all; everyone likes it. Unlike Beretta and Flour + Water, and to a lesser extent, Pizzeria Delfina, purveyors of an ostensibly fancier kind of pizza, the vibe is not glamorous. Apart from the wood oven used to bake them, the wares are not authentic but fairly pan-pizza in approach, though, in this age of hyper-fusion frenzy, that shouldn't deter the masses. You won't find habaneros, chicken tikka masala, or barbecue on pizza in Naples, but, these days, in the United States, thanks perhaps to the influence of \u003ca href=\"http://www.cpk.com/\">California Pizza Kitchen\u003c/a>, they're not exactly unusual toppings, and perfectly appropriate in the right context. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pizzeria is also Halal. The pig is on a big muddy pedastal these days, and there's a chance the absence of house-cured prosciutto, guanciale, and an occasional trotter special throws potential customers off the scent. In addition, Pizzeria sells no alcohol. One Yelper reports brown-bagging some brew, but the restaurant doesn't specifically recommend doing so. Unless you're willing to ask and perhaps plead, the closest thing to a dinner buzz or a perfect pairing you'll get here will have to come in the form of a $2.50 soda. For many, this will prove a bigger sticking point than the pancetta \u003cem>non grata\u003c/em> situation. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Could cost be the issue? Probably not, though, as far as pizza goes, Pizzeria's is not particularly inexpensive. In fact, its pizza margherita costs a dollar more than a similarly sized version made by Flour + Water, when the ingredients are obviously the same: tomatoes, fresh basil, mozzarella, and olive oil. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Generally speaking, when a restaurant's always empty, no passer-by wants to play guinea pig. Delivery customers write the majority of Pizzeria's Yelp reviews, and they tend to gush about speedy delivery and the endearing customer service, signs a few people have been curious enough to phone in orders, and the business owners are working hard to amass devotees, one at a time if necessary. Pizzeria is not open for lunch, which seems like a curious choice to make, especially if the owners want bodies in the dining room. Walk-in customers are more likely at lunch-time, especially on the weekends, when weary shoppers from other parts of town, quivering beneath the weight of new purchases, and stoned folks staggering in from Dolores Park make impulsive dining decisions based on whatever is in front of them. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Unlike Pizzeria, Flour + Water, the sort of sleek, self-styled \"neighborhood\" restaurant that employs a publicist, has been hot. \u003ca href=\"http://flourandwater.com/press/\">A dozen local press mentions and reviews \u003c/a> popped up within days of its opening, many before, and over \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/flour-water-san-francisco\">118 reviewers\u003c/a> have since weighed in, many charmed by the food, a number irritated by the crowds and clientele, and more than a few disparaging of the hosts' demeanor. No one likes a line, and Flour + Water's perpetually snakes out the door like links of runaway sausages. In shaping their doughy vision, the heads behind Flour + Water actually followed a pizza \u003ca href=\"http://missionlocal.org/2009/05/a-recession-time-to-open-a-restaurant-say-mission-district-entrepreneurs/\">principle\u003c/a> not unlike what was outlined in the Times piece, figuring rustic fare in a lovely dark wood-enhanced setting might rake in diners trying to scale back on spending without sacrificing the level of ambience regular restaurant-goers tend to favor. According to Flour + Water's website, the restaurant's design and construction \"are all about the mantra of the triple r: refurbished, repurposed and reclaimed,\" a triptych of buzzwords pretty much designed to make people feel as if they're sitting down to something real, hip, and happening, yet non-indulgent, and even -- gasp -- responsible.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pizzeria and Flour + Water don't serve the same kind of pizza, so reviewing them in tandem wouldn't make sense. I'm interested in why one restaurant is full, and the other is empty. Does the press machine get behind whatever they're told to get behind by whomever gets to decide what should be gotten behind? Is herd mentality a lot of what's keeping Flour + Water packed tighter than a jar of oil-cured anchovies and Pizzeria as forlorn and lonely as a marinara-deprived breadstick? Does a Halal pizzeria without a pizzaiolo or a publicist stand a chance in this city?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On Saturday, I decided to seize the pizza by the box and give Pizzeria a real shot. At 5:15 p.m., I slowly and deliberately walked up to the door. I looked in through the smudged glass. I couldn't do it. The prospect of being the only person in the place stressed me out. A lopsided ratio of cooks to customers makes for awkward dining, a rigid, uncomfortable experience, like at a show, when a band dwarfs the crowd. I turned tail and scurried back to my apartment where, furious with my lack of courage, yet quite relieved, I immediately dialed in an order for delivery: a $12 small \"Popeye\" pizza (baby spinach, slow-roasted garlic, and red onion) to which I, for an extra buck, boldly added beef pepperoni. Minutes later, Pizzeria's pizza and I were face-to-face. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/zafordinner300.jpg\" alt=\"pizzeria\" title=\"pizzeria\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-5233\">The mystery was over. The crust's bottom was black and blistery; the gnarled sides and top were beautiful, rutted in all the right places, tunnels of taste within, perfect pockets of air crunching, wafer-like, between teeth. The toppings were fine. I liked the cheese. The sauce was unmemorable. The thick slices of raw red onion didn't do much for me. I prefer them cooked, semi-pickled, or, if raw, very, very, very thinly slivered. The beef pepperoni didn't taste weird until I tried it cold on Sunday morning. Overall, Pizzeria makes a really good pizza in keeping with its intent: flavorful, timely, unpretentious, and very pizza-like. Everyone should go there ... or at least get something delivered.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>It was the season of sauce, it was the season of toppings. It was the spring of onions, it was the sausage of despair. We had pies before us, we had crusts before us.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/taleza300.jpg\" alt=\"A Tale of Two Pizzas\" title=\"A Tale of Two Pizzas\" width=\"300\" height=\"290\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-5234\">No lesser authority than The New York Times says artisanal pizza is on the rise. Just last week, the Gray Lady \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2009/07/08/dining/08pizza.html?ref=dining/\">blew the trend up\u003c/a>, making a case for the elegantly appointed pizzeria as a cost-conscious diner's best bet amid rotten economic circumstances. In San Francisco, this sub-genre of the pizza form is currently encroaching on the Mission District's once-fior di latte-less expanse with great success. \u003ca href=\"http://www.pizzeriadelfina.com/\">Pizzeria Delfina\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://berettasf.com/\">Beretta\u003c/a> are delicious examples of what's sizzling in Burritoland, though only the former would probably describe itself as a pizzeria first and foremost. \u003ca href=\"http://flourandwater.com/about/\">Flour + Water\u003c/a> just opened on Harrison in the last few months, serving pasta, salumi, and a familiar stripe of 'za: smallish, thin-crusted rounds decked out in classic and occasionally inventive combinations of toppings with a traditional bent and heavy, local-centric nods to seasonality. As if that weren't enough upscale crust and cheese to blanket a few square miles of coveted real estate, \u003ca href=\"http://pibarsf.com/\">Pi Bar\u003c/a> will soon start slinging (whole pies and cheese slices for, ha ha, $3.14) on Valencia near 25th, at a renovated space once home to Suriya Thai.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You might not have heard, but in Fall of 2008, \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfpizzeria.com/\">Pizzeria\u003c/a> opened its doors on a humming stretch of Valencia Street, not far from its intersection with 18th. As of press time, the establishment has garnered \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/pizzeria-san-francisco#hrid:7Wq8aFWDcrtU6ayjSjOJMQ/src:search/query:pizzeria\">45 reviews\u003c/a> on Yelp, most of them quite positive. Yet, for all the times I've wandered past its wide windows, I've never seen a customer populating one of the dining room's handsome circular wooden tables. I've stared at the menu. I've contemplated the helpful photographs of Pizzeria's offerings pasted to the front window. I've watched cooks bustle, a waiter mop, and a manager meticulously refill and reposition jars of red pepper flakes on the long counter, but, never, not once, have I witnessed a person, sitting down, napkin on lap, actually tucking into a plate of anything. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And I've always wondered why. Location could not be the problem. Valencia is a major thoroughfare for night-time revelers and day-time shoppers. The product itself is not immediately suspect either. It's pizza, after all; everyone likes it. Unlike Beretta and Flour + Water, and to a lesser extent, Pizzeria Delfina, purveyors of an ostensibly fancier kind of pizza, the vibe is not glamorous. Apart from the wood oven used to bake them, the wares are not authentic but fairly pan-pizza in approach, though, in this age of hyper-fusion frenzy, that shouldn't deter the masses. You won't find habaneros, chicken tikka masala, or barbecue on pizza in Naples, but, these days, in the United States, thanks perhaps to the influence of \u003ca href=\"http://www.cpk.com/\">California Pizza Kitchen\u003c/a>, they're not exactly unusual toppings, and perfectly appropriate in the right context. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pizzeria is also Halal. The pig is on a big muddy pedastal these days, and there's a chance the absence of house-cured prosciutto, guanciale, and an occasional trotter special throws potential customers off the scent. In addition, Pizzeria sells no alcohol. One Yelper reports brown-bagging some brew, but the restaurant doesn't specifically recommend doing so. Unless you're willing to ask and perhaps plead, the closest thing to a dinner buzz or a perfect pairing you'll get here will have to come in the form of a $2.50 soda. For many, this will prove a bigger sticking point than the pancetta \u003cem>non grata\u003c/em> situation. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Could cost be the issue? Probably not, though, as far as pizza goes, Pizzeria's is not particularly inexpensive. In fact, its pizza margherita costs a dollar more than a similarly sized version made by Flour + Water, when the ingredients are obviously the same: tomatoes, fresh basil, mozzarella, and olive oil. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Generally speaking, when a restaurant's always empty, no passer-by wants to play guinea pig. Delivery customers write the majority of Pizzeria's Yelp reviews, and they tend to gush about speedy delivery and the endearing customer service, signs a few people have been curious enough to phone in orders, and the business owners are working hard to amass devotees, one at a time if necessary. Pizzeria is not open for lunch, which seems like a curious choice to make, especially if the owners want bodies in the dining room. Walk-in customers are more likely at lunch-time, especially on the weekends, when weary shoppers from other parts of town, quivering beneath the weight of new purchases, and stoned folks staggering in from Dolores Park make impulsive dining decisions based on whatever is in front of them. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Unlike Pizzeria, Flour + Water, the sort of sleek, self-styled \"neighborhood\" restaurant that employs a publicist, has been hot. \u003ca href=\"http://flourandwater.com/press/\">A dozen local press mentions and reviews \u003c/a> popped up within days of its opening, many before, and over \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/flour-water-san-francisco\">118 reviewers\u003c/a> have since weighed in, many charmed by the food, a number irritated by the crowds and clientele, and more than a few disparaging of the hosts' demeanor. No one likes a line, and Flour + Water's perpetually snakes out the door like links of runaway sausages. In shaping their doughy vision, the heads behind Flour + Water actually followed a pizza \u003ca href=\"http://missionlocal.org/2009/05/a-recession-time-to-open-a-restaurant-say-mission-district-entrepreneurs/\">principle\u003c/a> not unlike what was outlined in the Times piece, figuring rustic fare in a lovely dark wood-enhanced setting might rake in diners trying to scale back on spending without sacrificing the level of ambience regular restaurant-goers tend to favor. According to Flour + Water's website, the restaurant's design and construction \"are all about the mantra of the triple r: refurbished, repurposed and reclaimed,\" a triptych of buzzwords pretty much designed to make people feel as if they're sitting down to something real, hip, and happening, yet non-indulgent, and even -- gasp -- responsible.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pizzeria and Flour + Water don't serve the same kind of pizza, so reviewing them in tandem wouldn't make sense. I'm interested in why one restaurant is full, and the other is empty. Does the press machine get behind whatever they're told to get behind by whomever gets to decide what should be gotten behind? Is herd mentality a lot of what's keeping Flour + Water packed tighter than a jar of oil-cured anchovies and Pizzeria as forlorn and lonely as a marinara-deprived breadstick? Does a Halal pizzeria without a pizzaiolo or a publicist stand a chance in this city?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On Saturday, I decided to seize the pizza by the box and give Pizzeria a real shot. At 5:15 p.m., I slowly and deliberately walked up to the door. I looked in through the smudged glass. I couldn't do it. The prospect of being the only person in the place stressed me out. A lopsided ratio of cooks to customers makes for awkward dining, a rigid, uncomfortable experience, like at a show, when a band dwarfs the crowd. I turned tail and scurried back to my apartment where, furious with my lack of courage, yet quite relieved, I immediately dialed in an order for delivery: a $12 small \"Popeye\" pizza (baby spinach, slow-roasted garlic, and red onion) to which I, for an extra buck, boldly added beef pepperoni. Minutes later, Pizzeria's pizza and I were face-to-face. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/zafordinner300.jpg\" alt=\"pizzeria\" title=\"pizzeria\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-5233\">The mystery was over. The crust's bottom was black and blistery; the gnarled sides and top were beautiful, rutted in all the right places, tunnels of taste within, perfect pockets of air crunching, wafer-like, between teeth. The toppings were fine. I liked the cheese. The sauce was unmemorable. The thick slices of raw red onion didn't do much for me. I prefer them cooked, semi-pickled, or, if raw, very, very, very thinly slivered. The beef pepperoni didn't taste weird until I tried it cold on Sunday morning. Overall, Pizzeria makes a really good pizza in keeping with its intent: flavorful, timely, unpretentious, and very pizza-like. Everyone should go there ... or at least get something delivered.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/paladar-022.jpg\" alt=\"Paladar - Sandwich Cubano\" title=\"Paladar - Sandwich Cubano\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5131\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Sandwich Cubano\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rich, roasted, shredded Niman pork, boiled ham, melty Swiss, an even layer of sweet and tangy pickles, whole grain mustard, creamy mayo, and a buttery, crusty, fresh roll, hot pressed, melding it all together.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ah.MA.zing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>No, seriously. If I could marry a sandwich, this would be it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Each bite of the \u003cstrong>Cubano\u003c/strong> gives you everything one could ever wish for in a sandwich. Meatiness. Meltiness. Crunch. Chew. An explosion of flavors in perfect harmony. Mee-ow. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's no wonder that this bright little Cuban café is always packed at lunchtime. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/paladar-002.jpg\" alt=\"Paladar Cafe Cubano, San Francisco FiDi\" title=\"Paladar Cafe Cubano, San Francisco FiDi\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5127\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Paladar Café Cubano, San Francisco FiDi\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/paladar-008.jpg\" alt=\"Lunchtime at Paladar\" title=\"Lunchtime at Paladar\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5128\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Lunchtime at Paladar\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Latin music keeps things lively -- as does the addictive \u003cstrong>Café con Leche\u003c/strong>, and the \u003cstrong>Mexican Coca-Cola\u003c/strong> made with real cane sugar, all 39 grams/serving of it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/paladar-011.jpg\" alt=\" Mexican Coca-Cola\" title=\" Mexican Coca-Cola\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5129\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Mexican Coca-Cola\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The regulars are stoked to be back -- on my first visit, I actually overheard a dapper gentleman in a panama hat and seersucker exclaim to no one in particular, \"Man! This place \u003cem>rocks\u003c/em>!\" as he salsa'd out the door.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And then there is the food -- warm, inviting, and satisfying. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/paladar-019.jpg\" alt=\"Picadillo, Paladar Cafe Cubano\" title=\"Picadillo, Paladar Cafe Cubano\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5130\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Picadillo, Paladar Café Cubano\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Other than wanting to marry the \u003cstrong>Cuban Sandwich\u003c/strong>, you may also find yourself wanting to have babies with the \u003cstrong>Picadillo Cubano estilo Elena\u003c/strong>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Niman ground beef, browned and seasoned with sautéed onions, garlic, tomatoes, peppers, green olives, raisins, and herbs, the result is an intensely aromatic Cuban version of an Italian ragu. The \u003cstrong>Picadillo\u003c/strong> is served with fluffy white rice and fried sweet plantains. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The sandwiches and mains are also served with a side of mixed greens. Nice touch. Sometimes it is drizzled with a heavenly coconut milk dressing, other times with a garlic aioli. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In Cuba, paladares are small family-run restaurants that serve home-cooking. While the space at Paladar Café Cubano may be small, the flavors are big. Big, bold, and comforting. This is food that makes you smile. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.paladarcafecubano.com\">Paladar Café Cubano\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n329 Kearny St\u003cbr>\n(between Bush St & Pine St)\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94108\u003cbr>\n(415) 398-4899 \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Paladar's Cuban Sando: rich, roasted, shredded Niman pork, boiled ham, melty Swiss, an even layer of sweet and tangy pickles, whole grain mustard, creamy mayo, and a buttery, crusty, fresh roll, hot pressed, melding it all together. Ah.MA.zing.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's no wonder that this bright little Cuban café is always packed at lunchtime. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/paladar-002.jpg\" alt=\"Paladar Cafe Cubano, San Francisco FiDi\" title=\"Paladar Cafe Cubano, San Francisco FiDi\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5127\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Paladar Café Cubano, San Francisco FiDi\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/paladar-008.jpg\" alt=\"Lunchtime at Paladar\" title=\"Lunchtime at Paladar\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5128\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Lunchtime at Paladar\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Latin music keeps things lively -- as does the addictive \u003cstrong>Café con Leche\u003c/strong>, and the \u003cstrong>Mexican Coca-Cola\u003c/strong> made with real cane sugar, all 39 grams/serving of it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/paladar-011.jpg\" alt=\" Mexican Coca-Cola\" title=\" Mexican Coca-Cola\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5129\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Mexican Coca-Cola\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The regulars are stoked to be back -- on my first visit, I actually overheard a dapper gentleman in a panama hat and seersucker exclaim to no one in particular, \"Man! This place \u003cem>rocks\u003c/em>!\" as he salsa'd out the door.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And then there is the food -- warm, inviting, and satisfying. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/paladar-019.jpg\" alt=\"Picadillo, Paladar Cafe Cubano\" title=\"Picadillo, Paladar Cafe Cubano\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5130\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Picadillo, Paladar Café Cubano\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Other than wanting to marry the \u003cstrong>Cuban Sandwich\u003c/strong>, you may also find yourself wanting to have babies with the \u003cstrong>Picadillo Cubano estilo Elena\u003c/strong>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Niman ground beef, browned and seasoned with sautéed onions, garlic, tomatoes, peppers, green olives, raisins, and herbs, the result is an intensely aromatic Cuban version of an Italian ragu. The \u003cstrong>Picadillo\u003c/strong> is served with fluffy white rice and fried sweet plantains. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The sandwiches and mains are also served with a side of mixed greens. Nice touch. Sometimes it is drizzled with a heavenly coconut milk dressing, other times with a garlic aioli. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In Cuba, paladares are small family-run restaurants that serve home-cooking. While the space at Paladar Café Cubano may be small, the flavors are big. Big, bold, and comforting. This is food that makes you smile. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.paladarcafecubano.com\">Paladar Café Cubano\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n329 Kearny St\u003cbr>\n(between Bush St & Pine St)\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94108\u003cbr>\n(415) 398-4899 \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Toot Toot Tootsie, Hello!",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cobject width=\"425\" height=\"344\">\u003cparam name=\"movie\" value=\"http://www.youtube.com/v/G-WZRUIfHjo&hl=en&fs=1&\">\u003cparam name=\"allowFullScreen\" value=\"true\">\u003cparam name=\"allowscriptaccess\" value=\"always\">\u003cembed src=\"http://www.youtube.com/v/G-WZRUIfHjo&hl=en&fs=1&\" type=\"application/x-shockwave-flash\" allowscriptaccess=\"always\" allowfullscreen=\"true\" width=\"425\" height=\"344\">\u003c/embed>\u003c/object>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Thank god for crappy hospital food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Seriously, as much as I respect and liked my caretakers at Lucile Packard Children's Hospital at Stanford, their food was not all they advertised. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Big surprise, right? Thankfully, my husband was ready and willing to bring back food from any place I wanted. He even would have driven up to San Francisco to bring me \u003ca href=\"http://piccinocafe.com/\">Piccino\u003c/a> or \u003ca href=\"http://nopalitosf.com/\">Nopalito\u003c/a>. Lucky for us and for our future stomachs that he didn't have to go nearly so far. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Just down the street from the hospital is \u003cstrong>Tootsie's\u003c/strong>. Tucked in the historic Stanford Barn, which served as the Stanford winery until 1893, Tootsie's is a little Italian jewel of an eatery that offers high-end coffees and espresso, sandwiches, fresh salads, and breakfasts. \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/jennifer-maiser/\">Jen Maiser\u003c/a> alerted me to Tootsie's existence soon after we moved down here, and we'd been intending to go ever since. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a bow to the location's history, Shannon and Rocco Scordella named their place for university namesake Leland Stanford Junior's dog (did you follow that?) and opened the red bricked restaurant six months ago. Both Scordellas have worked in fine dining in New York, and Chef Rocco, who originally hails from Puglia and Bologna, Italy, was brought to New York by Mario Batali to work at \u003ca href=\"http://www.delposto.com/home.htm\">Del Posto\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Unfortunately, we kept wanting to go for dinner, which they don't serve -- though Shannon did tell us on a recent visit that they might move to small plates and an enoteca-type setting -- so most of our half-hearted efforts were thwarted until I was in the hospital with a days-old baby. Mathra called me from Tootsie's to read off their menu -- I had my laptop in the hospital (of course!) but their website doesn't seem to be operational -- and he didn't get past, \"fried chicken sandwich.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Man. That sandwich. That SANDWICH! That sandwich isn't just a sandwich. It's a crispy-succulent soul reviver, topped with endive-caper slaw and snugged between two halves of a crusty bun. After getting only two hours of sleep in the 48 hours that followed Henry's birth, that sandwich saved my sanity and kept me from going all \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Yellow_Wallpaper\">Yellow Wallpaper\u003c/a> in the maternity ward. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/tootsies.jpg\" alt=\"tootsies\" title=\"tootsies\" width=\"350\" height=\"263\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-4881\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I've been home from the hospital for two weeks, and I've had that sandwich -- along with the accompanying homemade oregano potato chips -- five times. If that sandwich was the only thing they served, I still would think Tootsie's was worth it. However, good thing for everyone else (who have enough sense to take me at my word and run, don't walk, to Tootsie's), they also have a brilliant agrumi salad with butter lettuce, radish, celery, grapefruit segments, and shaved fennel; and a white bean, fennel, and flaked tuna salad with the springiest, most pristine arugula outside of Chez Panisse's crisper.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A very recent trip had us trying a brand new menu item: octopus and farro salad with celery and carrots, a divine dish that Rocco told us was his mother's recipe from Puglia. On the same trip, we sampled an Italian sausage and roasted pepper sandwich on a thick bun that was slabbed over with broccoli pesto and light touches of mustard; both were delicious dishes I hope I see often on the menu. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For breakfast, I will clog my arteries as frequently as I can with their poached egg on thick toast. Sound prosaic? What if I tell you that the poached egg is topped with celery, olives, and a drizzle of olive oil? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some day I plan to try their crêpe-esque ricotta pancakes with strawberries, but I'm having a hard time tearing myself away from that poached egg. I also had a bite of their veal-pork burger with olives and oregano ground right into the meat and slathered with caramelized onions and mozzarella cheese. I wonder if anyone will believe me when I say that the shoestring potatoes Tootsie's serves with that burger are better than those found at Zuni Cafe?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Tootsie's at the Stanford Barn\u003cbr>\n700 Quarry Road\u003cbr>\nPalo Alto, CA 94304\u003cbr>\n(650) 566-8445\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a bow to the location's history, Shannon and Rocco Scordella named their place for university namesake Leland Stanford Junior's dog (did you follow that?) and opened the red bricked restaurant six months ago. Both Scordellas have worked in fine dining in New York, and Chef Rocco, who originally hails from Puglia and Bologna, Italy, was brought to New York by Mario Batali to work at \u003ca href=\"http://www.delposto.com/home.htm\">Del Posto\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Unfortunately, we kept wanting to go for dinner, which they don't serve -- though Shannon did tell us on a recent visit that they might move to small plates and an enoteca-type setting -- so most of our half-hearted efforts were thwarted until I was in the hospital with a days-old baby. Mathra called me from Tootsie's to read off their menu -- I had my laptop in the hospital (of course!) but their website doesn't seem to be operational -- and he didn't get past, \"fried chicken sandwich.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Man. That sandwich. That SANDWICH! That sandwich isn't just a sandwich. It's a crispy-succulent soul reviver, topped with endive-caper slaw and snugged between two halves of a crusty bun. After getting only two hours of sleep in the 48 hours that followed Henry's birth, that sandwich saved my sanity and kept me from going all \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Yellow_Wallpaper\">Yellow Wallpaper\u003c/a> in the maternity ward. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/tootsies.jpg\" alt=\"tootsies\" title=\"tootsies\" width=\"350\" height=\"263\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-4881\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I've been home from the hospital for two weeks, and I've had that sandwich -- along with the accompanying homemade oregano potato chips -- five times. If that sandwich was the only thing they served, I still would think Tootsie's was worth it. However, good thing for everyone else (who have enough sense to take me at my word and run, don't walk, to Tootsie's), they also have a brilliant agrumi salad with butter lettuce, radish, celery, grapefruit segments, and shaved fennel; and a white bean, fennel, and flaked tuna salad with the springiest, most pristine arugula outside of Chez Panisse's crisper.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A very recent trip had us trying a brand new menu item: octopus and farro salad with celery and carrots, a divine dish that Rocco told us was his mother's recipe from Puglia. On the same trip, we sampled an Italian sausage and roasted pepper sandwich on a thick bun that was slabbed over with broccoli pesto and light touches of mustard; both were delicious dishes I hope I see often on the menu. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For breakfast, I will clog my arteries as frequently as I can with their poached egg on thick toast. Sound prosaic? What if I tell you that the poached egg is topped with celery, olives, and a drizzle of olive oil? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some day I plan to try their crêpe-esque ricotta pancakes with strawberries, but I'm having a hard time tearing myself away from that poached egg. I also had a bite of their veal-pork burger with olives and oregano ground right into the meat and slathered with caramelized onions and mozzarella cheese. I wonder if anyone will believe me when I say that the shoestring potatoes Tootsie's serves with that burger are better than those found at Zuni Cafe?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Tootsie's at the Stanford Barn\u003cbr>\n700 Quarry Road\u003cbr>\nPalo Alto, CA 94304\u003cbr>\n(650) 566-8445\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Red Crawfish",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/crawfish_bag.jpg\" alt=\"crawfish_bag\" title=\"crawfish_bag\" width=\"500\" height=\"332\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5095\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of my favorite culinary mash-ups of recent years is the Vietnamese-Chinese-Cajun crawfish boil served with rice or garlic noodles. Following the arc of families moving from Vietnam to New Orleans to Southern California to, finally, San Jose and San Francisco, mud bugs have taken a garlicky turn and shown up, of all places, in Little Saigon's across the country. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://redcrawfishsf.com/\">Red Crawfish\u003c/a>\u003c/strong> in San Francisco's Tenderloin is the one closest and dearest to me, as I head over that way anytime I'm craving familiar, comforting flavors. Boiled crawfish is a new tradition among my peeps, but it's one that I'm very happy to adopt, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Eating here is a dress-down, messy affair that requires friends with absolutely no pretensions about food. The red, steaming, spicy crawfish come out from the kitchen in pails and are plopped down on the paper-topped table inside plastic bags, rather than piled right on the table, to hold in all that the thick, rich broth. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/crawfish_fries.jpg\" alt=\"crawfish fries\" title=\"crawfish fries\" width=\"500\" height=\"332\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5096\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I love very spicy food and found that the medium was just fine for me. If you're hungry and a bit of a glutton, you could eat two pounds of crawfish with nothing else, but it's definitely hard to resist popular side orders like batter-fried sweet potatoes, buttery garlic noodles, buttery garlic toast, or just plain rice. You can also order potatoes and corn on the cob, and they'll throw them right in with the crawfish. If you don't \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xT9mkqpfwlQ&feature=related\">\u003cstrong>suck the heads\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> (and the purists among us would insist that you do), you should at least order some garlic noodles or a bowl of rice for soaking up all the juicy goodness that spurts out of each one. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are other entrees on \u003ca href=\"http://redcrawfishsf.com/menu.html\">\u003cstrong>the Red Crawfish's menu\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> -- the usual suspects of Vietnamese fare dominates over the Cajun influence -- but I haven't yet strayed far from the namesake of the restaurant. The huge bowl of spicy seafood soup is definitely worth sharing, while next on my list is one of my favorite dishes, bun rieu, seafood and tomato-tinged broth served over rice noodles.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/crawfish_soup.jpg\" alt=\"crawfish soup\" title=\"crawfish soup\" width=\"500\" height=\"332\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5101\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the DIY folks, there's also plenty of local crawfish harvested from the Sacramento Delta and from California's rice fields. Although the \u003ca href=\"http://www.crawdadfestival.org/\">\u003cstrong>Isleton Crawdad Festival\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> was canceled last month, another victim of the recession, you can still pick up live mud bugs (more for the rest of us!) from Bob's Bait Shop a.k.a. \u003ca href=\"http://themasterbaiter.tripod.com/\">\u003cstrong>The Master Baiter\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>. Located near the Sacramento Delta and the premier sources of live bait in the area, the shop also provides local crawfish for cooks picky about freshness. Be sure to call in advance, especially if you need more than 15 pounds. Check also with large Asian supermarkets near you, especially \u003ca href=\"http://www.99ranch.com/StoreLocator.asp?Store=All\">\u003cstrong>99 Ranch Market\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>, where crawfish can often be found crawling around live in the tanks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Those of us who have no shame will even ask the server at Red Crawfish to leave all the shells on the table so that, at the end of the meal, we can bag them up, spices and all, to make a very tasty stock back at home. Add some \u003ca href=\"http://hubpages.com/hub/How-to-Make-the-Cajun-Trinity\">\u003cstrong>Cajun trinity\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>, some dark roux, stir in a little heavy cream and lots of dry sherry, pull out a blender and a mesh strainer -- and you have a pot of mighty tasty soup.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://redcrawfishsf.com/\">RED CRAWFISH\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n611 Larkin Street\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94109\u003cbr>\n(415) 771-1388\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=red+crawfish&sll=37.784808,-122.417092&sspn=0.008488,0.006899&ie=UTF8&z=17&iwloc=A\">\u003cstrong>Map\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://themasterbaiter.tripod.com/\">BOB'S BAIT SHOP\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n302 2nd Street\u003cbr>\nIsleton, CA 95641\u003cbr>\n(916) 777-6666 or (916) 777-6806\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://maps.google.com/maps?ie=UTF8&q=map+302+2nd+Street,+isleton+california&fb=1&split=1&gl=us&cid=0,0,12326650582303194107&ei=24ZRSqmbKoeeswOd1vCqDQ&z=16&iwloc=A\">Map\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/crawfish_shells.jpg\" alt=\"crawfish shells\" title=\"crawfish shells\" width=\"500\" height=\"332\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5099\">\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "One of my favorite culinary mash-ups of recent years is the Vietnamese-Chinese-Cajun crawfish boil served with rice or garlic noodles. Following the arc of families moving from Vietnam to New Orleans to Southern California to, finally, San Jose and San Francisco, mud bugs have taken a garlicky turn and shown up, of all places, in Little Saigon's across the country.",
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"title": "Red Crawfish | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/crawfish_bag.jpg\" alt=\"crawfish_bag\" title=\"crawfish_bag\" width=\"500\" height=\"332\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5095\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of my favorite culinary mash-ups of recent years is the Vietnamese-Chinese-Cajun crawfish boil served with rice or garlic noodles. Following the arc of families moving from Vietnam to New Orleans to Southern California to, finally, San Jose and San Francisco, mud bugs have taken a garlicky turn and shown up, of all places, in Little Saigon's across the country. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://redcrawfishsf.com/\">Red Crawfish\u003c/a>\u003c/strong> in San Francisco's Tenderloin is the one closest and dearest to me, as I head over that way anytime I'm craving familiar, comforting flavors. Boiled crawfish is a new tradition among my peeps, but it's one that I'm very happy to adopt, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Eating here is a dress-down, messy affair that requires friends with absolutely no pretensions about food. The red, steaming, spicy crawfish come out from the kitchen in pails and are plopped down on the paper-topped table inside plastic bags, rather than piled right on the table, to hold in all that the thick, rich broth. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/crawfish_fries.jpg\" alt=\"crawfish fries\" title=\"crawfish fries\" width=\"500\" height=\"332\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5096\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I love very spicy food and found that the medium was just fine for me. If you're hungry and a bit of a glutton, you could eat two pounds of crawfish with nothing else, but it's definitely hard to resist popular side orders like batter-fried sweet potatoes, buttery garlic noodles, buttery garlic toast, or just plain rice. You can also order potatoes and corn on the cob, and they'll throw them right in with the crawfish. If you don't \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xT9mkqpfwlQ&feature=related\">\u003cstrong>suck the heads\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> (and the purists among us would insist that you do), you should at least order some garlic noodles or a bowl of rice for soaking up all the juicy goodness that spurts out of each one. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are other entrees on \u003ca href=\"http://redcrawfishsf.com/menu.html\">\u003cstrong>the Red Crawfish's menu\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> -- the usual suspects of Vietnamese fare dominates over the Cajun influence -- but I haven't yet strayed far from the namesake of the restaurant. The huge bowl of spicy seafood soup is definitely worth sharing, while next on my list is one of my favorite dishes, bun rieu, seafood and tomato-tinged broth served over rice noodles.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/crawfish_soup.jpg\" alt=\"crawfish soup\" title=\"crawfish soup\" width=\"500\" height=\"332\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5101\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the DIY folks, there's also plenty of local crawfish harvested from the Sacramento Delta and from California's rice fields. Although the \u003ca href=\"http://www.crawdadfestival.org/\">\u003cstrong>Isleton Crawdad Festival\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> was canceled last month, another victim of the recession, you can still pick up live mud bugs (more for the rest of us!) from Bob's Bait Shop a.k.a. \u003ca href=\"http://themasterbaiter.tripod.com/\">\u003cstrong>The Master Baiter\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>. Located near the Sacramento Delta and the premier sources of live bait in the area, the shop also provides local crawfish for cooks picky about freshness. Be sure to call in advance, especially if you need more than 15 pounds. Check also with large Asian supermarkets near you, especially \u003ca href=\"http://www.99ranch.com/StoreLocator.asp?Store=All\">\u003cstrong>99 Ranch Market\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>, where crawfish can often be found crawling around live in the tanks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Those of us who have no shame will even ask the server at Red Crawfish to leave all the shells on the table so that, at the end of the meal, we can bag them up, spices and all, to make a very tasty stock back at home. Add some \u003ca href=\"http://hubpages.com/hub/How-to-Make-the-Cajun-Trinity\">\u003cstrong>Cajun trinity\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>, some dark roux, stir in a little heavy cream and lots of dry sherry, pull out a blender and a mesh strainer -- and you have a pot of mighty tasty soup.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://redcrawfishsf.com/\">RED CRAWFISH\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n611 Larkin Street\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94109\u003cbr>\n(415) 771-1388\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=red+crawfish&sll=37.784808,-122.417092&sspn=0.008488,0.006899&ie=UTF8&z=17&iwloc=A\">\u003cstrong>Map\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://themasterbaiter.tripod.com/\">BOB'S BAIT SHOP\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n302 2nd Street\u003cbr>\nIsleton, CA 95641\u003cbr>\n(916) 777-6666 or (916) 777-6806\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://maps.google.com/maps?ie=UTF8&q=map+302+2nd+Street,+isleton+california&fb=1&split=1&gl=us&cid=0,0,12326650582303194107&ei=24ZRSqmbKoeeswOd1vCqDQ&z=16&iwloc=A\">Map\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/crawfish_shells.jpg\" alt=\"crawfish shells\" title=\"crawfish shells\" width=\"500\" height=\"332\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5099\">\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "First Look at Donato Enoteca",
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"content": "\u003cp>If you stepped into \u003ca href=\"http://www.donatoenoteca.com/\">Donato Enoteca\u003c/a> in Redwood City on opening night, you might have thought you were in Italy. It seemed just about every Italian in the Bay Area was there. Not only that, as a guest of honor, in attendance was the chef's mother, who flew in from Italy on a whim. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The space feels a bit like three or four restaurants in one. In the front is a casual and inviting space facing the open kitchen. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/frontdiningroom.jpg\" alt=\"front dining room\" title=\"front dining room\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-4992\">\u003cbr>\nThe middle section is across from the bar and is a bit more chic. After all, \"enoteca\" means wine bar. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the far end is the most formal Wine Cellar dining room. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/winecellarroom.jpg\" alt=\"wine cellar room\" title=\"wine cellar room\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-4993\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All along the outside of the restaurant is outdoor seating. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/alfresco.jpg\" alt=\"al fresco\" title=\"al fresco\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-4994\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chef Donato Scotti, a native of Bergamo, Italy, envisioned Donato Enoteca, after years working at well-known Italian restaurants in Italy and the US. His food is the sort to make any Italian happy, there was plenty of stuffed pasta, risotto and pizza to go with endless glasses of Prosecco. While not specializing in a particular region, I suspect the food will often reflect the cuisine of Lombardy. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/chefdonato.jpg\" alt=\"chef donato\" title=\"chef donato\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-4997\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some of the tastiest dishes of the night were creamy risotto and braised wild boar served on crostini.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/risotto.jpg\" alt=\"risotto\" title=\"risotto\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-4996\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Clearly the chef has skills beyond cooking just the dishes of his own home turf, in particular, the seafood dishes including some grilled shrimp and calamari were succulent and delectable. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/calamari.jpg\" alt=\"calamari\" title=\"calamari\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-4995\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That said, the dish I will be most eager to try when I return will be the Costoletta alla Milanese, a thin, crisp breaded veal cutlet that is a speciality of the region and a favorite dish of mine. The Bay Area can always use another great Italian restaurant and if opening night was any indication, Donato Enoteca is well on it's way.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here is the recipe for one of Donato Enoteca's signature dishes:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Insalata Biete e Fave\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Serves:\u003c/strong> 4 \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nChioggia and Golden beets 2 each medium sized\u003cbr>\n6oz fresh peeled & poached fava beans\u003cbr>\n1.5 oz wild organic arugula\u003cbr>\n2 tablespoons Extra Virgin Olive Oil\u003cbr>\n1 stem rosemary\u003cbr>\n2 glasses dry white wine (Pinot Grigio preferred)\u003cbr>\n1 Tablespoon Chianti vinegar (or red wine vinegar)\u003cbr>\n1 ounce Pecorino fresco or goat cheese\u003cbr>\n1 clove garlic\u003cbr>\nSalt & pepper \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Method:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nPlace the beets in a high-edged baking pan. Pour the dry white wine over the beets and add the smashed garlic clove, chopped rosemary and a sprinkle of salt and pepper. Cover with aluminum and bake 20 minutes at 400 degrees. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Remove aluminum and finish baking until done (poke with toothpick, should come out dry and easy). Set to cool until warm approximately 30 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once cooled, gently peel skin from beets and cut beets into segments. Set aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Prepare vinaigrette dressing by whisking 1 tablespoon Chianti Vinegar with a sprinkle of salt then 3 tablespoons Extra Virgin Olive Oil.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Toss segmented beets and fava beans with dressing after gently place on bed of arugula topping with a choice of cheese. Lightly drizzle with Extra Virgin Olive Oil and ground pepper.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>If you stepped into \u003ca href=\"http://www.donatoenoteca.com/\">Donato Enoteca\u003c/a> in Redwood City on opening night, you might have thought you were in Italy. It seemed just about every Italian in the Bay Area was there. Not only that, as a guest of honor, in attendance was the chef's mother, who flew in from Italy on a whim. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The space feels a bit like three or four restaurants in one. In the front is a casual and inviting space facing the open kitchen. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/frontdiningroom.jpg\" alt=\"front dining room\" title=\"front dining room\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-4992\">\u003cbr>\nThe middle section is across from the bar and is a bit more chic. After all, \"enoteca\" means wine bar. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the far end is the most formal Wine Cellar dining room. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/winecellarroom.jpg\" alt=\"wine cellar room\" title=\"wine cellar room\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-4993\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All along the outside of the restaurant is outdoor seating. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/alfresco.jpg\" alt=\"al fresco\" title=\"al fresco\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-4994\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chef Donato Scotti, a native of Bergamo, Italy, envisioned Donato Enoteca, after years working at well-known Italian restaurants in Italy and the US. His food is the sort to make any Italian happy, there was plenty of stuffed pasta, risotto and pizza to go with endless glasses of Prosecco. While not specializing in a particular region, I suspect the food will often reflect the cuisine of Lombardy. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/chefdonato.jpg\" alt=\"chef donato\" title=\"chef donato\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-4997\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some of the tastiest dishes of the night were creamy risotto and braised wild boar served on crostini.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/risotto.jpg\" alt=\"risotto\" title=\"risotto\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-4996\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Clearly the chef has skills beyond cooking just the dishes of his own home turf, in particular, the seafood dishes including some grilled shrimp and calamari were succulent and delectable. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/calamari.jpg\" alt=\"calamari\" title=\"calamari\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-4995\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That said, the dish I will be most eager to try when I return will be the Costoletta alla Milanese, a thin, crisp breaded veal cutlet that is a speciality of the region and a favorite dish of mine. The Bay Area can always use another great Italian restaurant and if opening night was any indication, Donato Enoteca is well on it's way.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here is the recipe for one of Donato Enoteca's signature dishes:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Insalata Biete e Fave\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Serves:\u003c/strong> 4 \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nChioggia and Golden beets 2 each medium sized\u003cbr>\n6oz fresh peeled & poached fava beans\u003cbr>\n1.5 oz wild organic arugula\u003cbr>\n2 tablespoons Extra Virgin Olive Oil\u003cbr>\n1 stem rosemary\u003cbr>\n2 glasses dry white wine (Pinot Grigio preferred)\u003cbr>\n1 Tablespoon Chianti vinegar (or red wine vinegar)\u003cbr>\n1 ounce Pecorino fresco or goat cheese\u003cbr>\n1 clove garlic\u003cbr>\nSalt & pepper \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Method:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nPlace the beets in a high-edged baking pan. Pour the dry white wine over the beets and add the smashed garlic clove, chopped rosemary and a sprinkle of salt and pepper. Cover with aluminum and bake 20 minutes at 400 degrees. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Remove aluminum and finish baking until done (poke with toothpick, should come out dry and easy). Set to cool until warm approximately 30 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once cooled, gently peel skin from beets and cut beets into segments. Set aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Prepare vinaigrette dressing by whisking 1 tablespoon Chianti Vinegar with a sprinkle of salt then 3 tablespoons Extra Virgin Olive Oil.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Toss segmented beets and fava beans with dressing after gently place on bed of arugula topping with a choice of cheese. Lightly drizzle with Extra Virgin Olive Oil and ground pepper.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Happy Pride! Celebrate Local LGBT Chefs",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/gay-pride.jpg\" alt=\"gay pride\" title=\"gay pride\" width=\"300\" height=\"201\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-4847\">Happy Pride! The Gay High Holy Days—or week, or month, depending on your stamina and affinity for dance music, tank tops, rainbow balloons, sign-waving, marches, guys in banana thongs, and standing in line, endlessly, for tickets, beer, and/or bathrooms—are coming to their sunny, sweaty close today. Time to get off the Blue Angel-martini-and-popcorn diet and put those silver latex shorts back in the closet, at least til the Folsom Street Fair. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Or that's how it might be in \u003cem>other\u003c/em> cities, where Pride comes around but once a year. Here in our lovely fog-bound burg, though, we can be prideful every day, even if we still-still!-can't get married in City Hall. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But there is something particularly fabulous in seeing the typical straight-to-gay ratio of just about everything upended this month. I still remember walking into 2223 Market one night near the end of June last year, and feeling like everyone there was gay. Gay couples, gay friends, gay parents--it was just like being in the straight world, except this time it was all ours. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Naming all the LGBT chefs and business owners who have made the SF food scene what it is would turn this column into a faygelah version of Adam Sandler's Hannukah Song, but still, let's raise a glass to Traci des Jardins, for running a fancypants place in Hayes Valley \u003cem>and\u003c/em> a taqueria with a conscience, and never turning down the chance to help out a good cause; to bad boy Jeremiah Tower, for making Stars sparkle; to Elizabeth Faulkner and her partner Sabrina Riddle, for giving the dyke food mafia an official clubhouse, first at Citizen Cake, now at Orson; and to food photographer Frankie Frankeny, because she shoots what we want to eat, and finds a way to sneak her daschunds into every shoot. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And let's not forget a toast to vinologist Pamela Busch, of the late Hayes and Vine and the current Cav Wine Bar, and to Absinthe's Jamie Lauren and her Top Chef Team Rainbow, for making \"hot chef\" replace \"folk singer\" as the default lesbian occupation. Also heating up the room is Gialina pizza diva Sharon Ardiana, turning Glen Park into Naples, and Celia Sack of Omnivore Books, for bringing us cookbook-browsing perfection with nary a 30-Minute-Meal or celebrity diet in sight, just up the street from the ever-charming Lovejoy's Teahouse, run by Muna Nash and Gillian Briley. Were we getting married, we might just drag pastry chef Yigit Pura of Taste Catering out to Iowa with us, just so we could show that corn-fed state just how divine his chocolate-hazelnut daquoise with passion fruit filling wedding cakes can be. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And thank you Rainbow Grocery, for letting us shop for veggie dogs on the 4th of July but closing for Pride Sunday, so your collective members can be out and proud rather than stuck restocking the spirulina. Even Food Not Bombs gets into the spirit now, serving up free eats (in tuxedo shirts and fake mustaches) at their mobile Chez Gay Cafe in Dolores Park before the Trans March. We're here, we're queer, let's eat!\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Naming all the LGBT chefs and business owners who have made the SF food scene what it is would turn this column into a fagelah version of Adam Sandler's Hannukah Song, but still, let's raise a glass to toast a few of the folks we'd love to make us dinner (or even better, breakfast.) ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/gay-pride.jpg\" alt=\"gay pride\" title=\"gay pride\" width=\"300\" height=\"201\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-4847\">Happy Pride! The Gay High Holy Days—or week, or month, depending on your stamina and affinity for dance music, tank tops, rainbow balloons, sign-waving, marches, guys in banana thongs, and standing in line, endlessly, for tickets, beer, and/or bathrooms—are coming to their sunny, sweaty close today. Time to get off the Blue Angel-martini-and-popcorn diet and put those silver latex shorts back in the closet, at least til the Folsom Street Fair. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Or that's how it might be in \u003cem>other\u003c/em> cities, where Pride comes around but once a year. Here in our lovely fog-bound burg, though, we can be prideful every day, even if we still-still!-can't get married in City Hall. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But there is something particularly fabulous in seeing the typical straight-to-gay ratio of just about everything upended this month. I still remember walking into 2223 Market one night near the end of June last year, and feeling like everyone there was gay. Gay couples, gay friends, gay parents--it was just like being in the straight world, except this time it was all ours. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Naming all the LGBT chefs and business owners who have made the SF food scene what it is would turn this column into a faygelah version of Adam Sandler's Hannukah Song, but still, let's raise a glass to Traci des Jardins, for running a fancypants place in Hayes Valley \u003cem>and\u003c/em> a taqueria with a conscience, and never turning down the chance to help out a good cause; to bad boy Jeremiah Tower, for making Stars sparkle; to Elizabeth Faulkner and her partner Sabrina Riddle, for giving the dyke food mafia an official clubhouse, first at Citizen Cake, now at Orson; and to food photographer Frankie Frankeny, because she shoots what we want to eat, and finds a way to sneak her daschunds into every shoot. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And let's not forget a toast to vinologist Pamela Busch, of the late Hayes and Vine and the current Cav Wine Bar, and to Absinthe's Jamie Lauren and her Top Chef Team Rainbow, for making \"hot chef\" replace \"folk singer\" as the default lesbian occupation. Also heating up the room is Gialina pizza diva Sharon Ardiana, turning Glen Park into Naples, and Celia Sack of Omnivore Books, for bringing us cookbook-browsing perfection with nary a 30-Minute-Meal or celebrity diet in sight, just up the street from the ever-charming Lovejoy's Teahouse, run by Muna Nash and Gillian Briley. Were we getting married, we might just drag pastry chef Yigit Pura of Taste Catering out to Iowa with us, just so we could show that corn-fed state just how divine his chocolate-hazelnut daquoise with passion fruit filling wedding cakes can be. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And thank you Rainbow Grocery, for letting us shop for veggie dogs on the 4th of July but closing for Pride Sunday, so your collective members can be out and proud rather than stuck restocking the spirulina. Even Food Not Bombs gets into the spirit now, serving up free eats (in tuxedo shirts and fake mustaches) at their mobile Chez Gay Cafe in Dolores Park before the Trans March. We're here, we're queer, let's eat!\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Oola la Souffle Mondays",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/oola_souffle.jpg\" alt=\"Vahlrona Chocolate Souffle, Oola\" title=\"Vahlrona Chocolate Souffle, Oola\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-4784\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Vahlrona Chocolate Souffle, Oola\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"There is nothing like good food, good wine and a bad girl.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So says the fine print on the menu at \u003ca href=\"http://www.oola-sf.com/\">Oola\u003c/a>. It sure does set the tone, and on a Monday night at that. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/oola-couple.jpg\" alt=\"Monday date night at Oola\" title=\"Monday date night at Oola\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-4786\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Monday date night at Oola\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The strategic lighting, exposed brick, and soaring-ceilings make you feel a little mysterious, a little daring, a little come-hither. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So while we're being naughty, let's start with dessert first. Our \u003cstrong>Vahlrona Chocolate Souffle\u003c/strong> served with a Chambord ice cream sauce, fresh berries, and a cute little puff of meringue was an absolute treat. \u003cstrong>Pastry chef Alicia Montalvo\u003c/strong> has a good thing going here. Our souffle was everything I wanted it to be. Light, airy, rich, and downright sexy. Montalvo is planning on featuring a new souffle special every Monday, only on Mondays. I'm already looking forward to finding out what creative concoctions she has up her sleeve. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/oola_oysters.jpg\" alt=\"Hama Hama Oysters, Oola\" title=\"Hama Hama Oysters, Oola\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-4782\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Hama Hama Oysters, Oola\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>From one aphrodisiac to another, bring on the oysters. Oola had \u003cstrong>Hama Hamas\u003c/strong> and \u003cstrong>Marins\u003c/strong> on the menu, both served on the half shell with a mignonette and cocktail sauce on the side. We preferred the hama hamas which had a more buttery texture and cleaner, fresh sea taste. Mmm, I could eat a whole pirate chest of good oysters. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/oola_shortribs.jpg\" alt=\"Baby Back Ribs, Oola\" title=\"Baby Back Ribs, Oola\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-4783\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Baby Back Ribs, Oola\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you've never tasted \u003cstrong>Chef Ola Fendert’s\u003c/strong> famous \u003cstrong>Baby Back Ribs\u003c/strong>, you must. Glazed in a soy sauce, cilantro, ginger sauce, they are the perfect flavor and texture. Eat them with your hands and lick the tangy, salty, sweet, stickiness off your fingers. The outer layer is beautifully caramelized and slightly charred, while the inner bites are falling-off-the-bone tender. The red cabbage-apple slaw on the side provides a nice fresh crunch and a touch of mellow creaminess. They dutifully perform their supporting role in this highly delicious act. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/oola_foie-gras-ravioli.jpg\" alt=\"Foie gras and chicken ravioli, Oola\" title=\"Foie gras and chicken ravioli, Oola\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-4781\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Foie gras and chicken ravioli, Oola\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For my main, I went with the \u003cstrong>Foie Gras and Chicken Ravioli\u003c/strong> served in a roasted chicken and truffle broth. The ravioli had me at foie gras. When the dish arrived at the table, I was momentarily intoxicated by the unmistakable earthy, pungent, woodsy aroma of black truffle. The al dente pasta had great chew and flavor, and the foie gras/chicken filling was meaty and full-flavored, but texture wise, I wish it was more velvety, molten-foie gras-like, and less meat-like. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/oola_tomato-risotto.jpg\" alt=\"“Farmer’s Market Special” Bruins Farms Heirloom Tomato Risotto\" title=\"“Farmer’s Market Special” Bruins Farms Heirloom Tomato Risotto\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-4785\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>\"Farmer’s Market Special\" Bruins Farms Heirloom Tomato Risotto\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The \"Farmer’s Market Special,\" part of Oola's new summer menu dedicated to showcasing seasonal, local-sourced organic ingredients, was an \u003cstrong>Heirloom Tomato Risotto\u003c/strong> made with chunks of heirloom tomatoes, stewed cherry tomatoes that burst in my mouth, and oven-dried tomatoes that added a touch of smokiness. The combination made for a complex and bright sweetness. The risotto was topped with a creamy, mild goat cheese, and seasoned with fragrant lavender – the perfect complementary accents. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(In a way this dish reminded me of a way fancier version of what I used to eat as a child. Surprisingly, for a period in my life, I was a picky eater, and the only way my parents could get me to eat rice was if it was doused in ketchup. OK, you may or may not think less of me now. What's done is done.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Parenthetical aside, Oola may just have what it takes to make Monday the new date night. Nothing like a souffle and some footsie to take the edge off a new week.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.oola-sf.com%20\">Oola Restaurant & Bar\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n860 Folsom Street\u003cbr>\n(between 4th St & 5th St)\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94107\u003cbr>\n(415) 995-2061 \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So while we're being naughty, let's start with dessert first. Our \u003cstrong>Vahlrona Chocolate Souffle\u003c/strong> served with a Chambord ice cream sauce, fresh berries, and a cute little puff of meringue was an absolute treat. \u003cstrong>Pastry chef Alicia Montalvo\u003c/strong> has a good thing going here. Our souffle was everything I wanted it to be. Light, airy, rich, and downright sexy. Montalvo is planning on featuring a new souffle special every Monday, only on Mondays. I'm already looking forward to finding out what creative concoctions she has up her sleeve. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/oola_oysters.jpg\" alt=\"Hama Hama Oysters, Oola\" title=\"Hama Hama Oysters, Oola\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-4782\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Hama Hama Oysters, Oola\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>From one aphrodisiac to another, bring on the oysters. Oola had \u003cstrong>Hama Hamas\u003c/strong> and \u003cstrong>Marins\u003c/strong> on the menu, both served on the half shell with a mignonette and cocktail sauce on the side. We preferred the hama hamas which had a more buttery texture and cleaner, fresh sea taste. Mmm, I could eat a whole pirate chest of good oysters. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/oola_shortribs.jpg\" alt=\"Baby Back Ribs, Oola\" title=\"Baby Back Ribs, Oola\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-4783\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Baby Back Ribs, Oola\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you've never tasted \u003cstrong>Chef Ola Fendert’s\u003c/strong> famous \u003cstrong>Baby Back Ribs\u003c/strong>, you must. Glazed in a soy sauce, cilantro, ginger sauce, they are the perfect flavor and texture. Eat them with your hands and lick the tangy, salty, sweet, stickiness off your fingers. The outer layer is beautifully caramelized and slightly charred, while the inner bites are falling-off-the-bone tender. The red cabbage-apple slaw on the side provides a nice fresh crunch and a touch of mellow creaminess. They dutifully perform their supporting role in this highly delicious act. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/oola_foie-gras-ravioli.jpg\" alt=\"Foie gras and chicken ravioli, Oola\" title=\"Foie gras and chicken ravioli, Oola\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-4781\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Foie gras and chicken ravioli, Oola\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For my main, I went with the \u003cstrong>Foie Gras and Chicken Ravioli\u003c/strong> served in a roasted chicken and truffle broth. The ravioli had me at foie gras. When the dish arrived at the table, I was momentarily intoxicated by the unmistakable earthy, pungent, woodsy aroma of black truffle. The al dente pasta had great chew and flavor, and the foie gras/chicken filling was meaty and full-flavored, but texture wise, I wish it was more velvety, molten-foie gras-like, and less meat-like. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/oola_tomato-risotto.jpg\" alt=\"“Farmer’s Market Special” Bruins Farms Heirloom Tomato Risotto\" title=\"“Farmer’s Market Special” Bruins Farms Heirloom Tomato Risotto\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-4785\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>\"Farmer’s Market Special\" Bruins Farms Heirloom Tomato Risotto\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The \"Farmer’s Market Special,\" part of Oola's new summer menu dedicated to showcasing seasonal, local-sourced organic ingredients, was an \u003cstrong>Heirloom Tomato Risotto\u003c/strong> made with chunks of heirloom tomatoes, stewed cherry tomatoes that burst in my mouth, and oven-dried tomatoes that added a touch of smokiness. The combination made for a complex and bright sweetness. The risotto was topped with a creamy, mild goat cheese, and seasoned with fragrant lavender – the perfect complementary accents. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(In a way this dish reminded me of a way fancier version of what I used to eat as a child. Surprisingly, for a period in my life, I was a picky eater, and the only way my parents could get me to eat rice was if it was doused in ketchup. OK, you may or may not think less of me now. What's done is done.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Parenthetical aside, Oola may just have what it takes to make Monday the new date night. Nothing like a souffle and some footsie to take the edge off a new week.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.oola-sf.com%20\">Oola Restaurant & Bar\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n860 Folsom Street\u003cbr>\n(between 4th St & 5th St)\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94107\u003cbr>\n(415) 995-2061 \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "How to make your ragu sing like Pavarotti",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/pasta-ragu.jpg\" alt=\"mostaccioli with pork shoulder ragu\" title=\"mostaccioli with pork shoulder ragu\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-4660\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Mostaccioli with pork shoulder ragu\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I've been making meat sauces for years, but only now -- after two months as an apprentice at Oliveto -- have I learned some of the secrets behind a superlative ragu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A ragu is a basic meat sauce for pasta. The first authentic version I tried was years ago, in Emilia-Romagna, the region of Italy that invented the classic Bolognese sauce. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That first ragu was bold and brooding -- much like a Pavarotti opera. The sauce was entangled in a nest of perfectly cooked tagliatelle, with the flavor infused into the noodle. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Numerous cookbooks offer suggestions on making a Bolognese sauce and other forms of ragu. Yet nearly all of these recipes, in my opinion, are flawed. Most suggest cooking a mixture of diced onion, carrots and celery before adding your meat to brown it. The sauce that results tends to be lifeless or, even worse, infused with chunks of burnt vegetables.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/ragu-veg.jpg\" alt=\"Vegetables sweating on top of meat as the meat brown\" title=\"Vegetables sweating on top of meat as the meat brown\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-4661\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Vegetables sweating on top of meat as the meat brown\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At Oliveto, the chefs have reversed the sequence. First they brown the meat and then allow the vegetables to steam, or \"sweat,\" on top of the meat. This process produces a dark layer of caramelized meat solids at the bottom of the pan -- a foundation of flavor. This foundation, or \"fond\" as the chefs call it, is then deglazed by the natural juices of the vegetables when added on top. This is allowed to cook down so the fond is rebuilt and deglazed two or three times.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Paul Bertolli, the former head chef at Oliveto, describes the technique in his 2003 book, \"Cooking By Hand.\" Bertolli's successor, Paul Canales, who had a role in developing this technique, has continued to refine and perfect it since becoming executive chef.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cooking a ragu in this manner is not difficult, but it cannot be whipped out in an hour or two. A ragu is truly slow food -- time-tested and refined by Italian grandmothers over many centuries.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/ragu-cooking.jpg\" alt=\"Ragu ready for a long simmer, after broth and tomato paste have been added\" title=\"Ragu ready for a long simmer, after broth and tomato paste have been added\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-4663\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Ragu ready for a long simmer, after broth and tomato paste have been added\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ragu for pasta\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Makes:\u003c/strong> 8-10 servings of sauce\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n2 pounds ground meat (Beef, pork or equal amounts of both. For beef, try ground chuck or get adventurous with ground hanger steak, beef cheeks, etc. For the pig, try ground pork shoulder.)\u003cbr>\n4 medium yellow onions\u003cbr>\n5 stalks celery\u003cbr>\n5 carrots\u003cbr>\n4 tablespoons finely chopped fresh sage\u003cbr>\n2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh oregano\u003cbr>\n6 cups dark chicken or veal stock\u003cbr>\n½ cup white wine\u003cbr>\n½ cup high-quality tomato paste\u003cbr>\n1 cup cream (optional)\u003cbr>\nSalt and pepper to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Dice the onions, celery and carrots into a mirepoix -- cubes smaller than 1/4 inch in size. As you are dicing the vegetables and mincing the fresh herbs, start cooking your meat. Use a heavy bottomed Dutch oven or stew pot. This is essential. The bottom of the pan has to be thick and heavy enough to brown the meat, without scorching it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Use high heat to start your browning process. But keep an eye on it, and adjust the flame accordingly. It’s okay for the meat to stick and brown, but you don't want it to blacken or burn.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. After you have built an even layer of fond on the bottom, toss your vegetables on top of the meat. Leave them there for at least 15 minutes, allowing them to release their juices to the bottom of the pan. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Give your meat and vegetable a rigorous stir with a wooden spoon, and scrape up the fond layer that has now been deglazed by the vegetables. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5. Turn up heat slightly, and allow this to cook down and brown again, then add a shot of wine -- no more than a cup. Stir and scrape. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6. Allow this to cook down again. When browned, add a cup of stock. Repeat the process and add your tomato paste, diluted with a half cup of stock.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>7. Watch your ragu carefully at this point. The addition of tomato paste could lead to scorching. Keep the heat up, but stir it regularly as the fond starts to reform. When it is nice and brown, but not scorched, add two or three cups of stock -- enough to make it slightly more soupy than you'd want for a sauce. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>8. At this point, your ragu should have a lovely, brownish-red color. Bring it to a boil and then turn down to a simmer. Allow it to simmer for two to four hours, stirring occasionally and adding more stock, if necessary. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>9. Before serving, you have the option of adding cream -- as much or as little as you want. Too much cream will dilute the intensity of the sauce, so be judicious at first.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>10. You can take this basic sauce in many different directions. Add minced porcini mushrooms early in the cooking for an earthier flavor, or cinnamon or nutmeg to give it a spicy edge. Use different combinations of fresh herbs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>11. The final step, of course, is marrying the ragu with the pasta. Don't just ladle it on top. Cook your pasta just short of al dente, then mix it thoroughly in a skillet with an appropriate amount of sauce and then serve it immediately. Sprinkle some Parmesan cheese on top, and you will be ready to sing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/ragu400.jpg\" alt=\"ragu\" title=\"ragu\" width=\"400\" height=\"297\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-4665\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>This is what ragu should look like when finished\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "I've been making meat sauces for years, but only now -- after two months as an apprentice at Oliveto -- have I learned some of the secrets behind a superlative ragu.\r\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/pasta-ragu.jpg\" alt=\"mostaccioli with pork shoulder ragu\" title=\"mostaccioli with pork shoulder ragu\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-4660\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Mostaccioli with pork shoulder ragu\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I've been making meat sauces for years, but only now -- after two months as an apprentice at Oliveto -- have I learned some of the secrets behind a superlative ragu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A ragu is a basic meat sauce for pasta. The first authentic version I tried was years ago, in Emilia-Romagna, the region of Italy that invented the classic Bolognese sauce. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That first ragu was bold and brooding -- much like a Pavarotti opera. The sauce was entangled in a nest of perfectly cooked tagliatelle, with the flavor infused into the noodle. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Numerous cookbooks offer suggestions on making a Bolognese sauce and other forms of ragu. Yet nearly all of these recipes, in my opinion, are flawed. Most suggest cooking a mixture of diced onion, carrots and celery before adding your meat to brown it. The sauce that results tends to be lifeless or, even worse, infused with chunks of burnt vegetables.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/ragu-veg.jpg\" alt=\"Vegetables sweating on top of meat as the meat brown\" title=\"Vegetables sweating on top of meat as the meat brown\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-4661\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Vegetables sweating on top of meat as the meat brown\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At Oliveto, the chefs have reversed the sequence. First they brown the meat and then allow the vegetables to steam, or \"sweat,\" on top of the meat. This process produces a dark layer of caramelized meat solids at the bottom of the pan -- a foundation of flavor. This foundation, or \"fond\" as the chefs call it, is then deglazed by the natural juices of the vegetables when added on top. This is allowed to cook down so the fond is rebuilt and deglazed two or three times.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Paul Bertolli, the former head chef at Oliveto, describes the technique in his 2003 book, \"Cooking By Hand.\" Bertolli's successor, Paul Canales, who had a role in developing this technique, has continued to refine and perfect it since becoming executive chef.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cooking a ragu in this manner is not difficult, but it cannot be whipped out in an hour or two. A ragu is truly slow food -- time-tested and refined by Italian grandmothers over many centuries.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/ragu-cooking.jpg\" alt=\"Ragu ready for a long simmer, after broth and tomato paste have been added\" title=\"Ragu ready for a long simmer, after broth and tomato paste have been added\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-4663\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Ragu ready for a long simmer, after broth and tomato paste have been added\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ragu for pasta\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Makes:\u003c/strong> 8-10 servings of sauce\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n2 pounds ground meat (Beef, pork or equal amounts of both. For beef, try ground chuck or get adventurous with ground hanger steak, beef cheeks, etc. For the pig, try ground pork shoulder.)\u003cbr>\n4 medium yellow onions\u003cbr>\n5 stalks celery\u003cbr>\n5 carrots\u003cbr>\n4 tablespoons finely chopped fresh sage\u003cbr>\n2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh oregano\u003cbr>\n6 cups dark chicken or veal stock\u003cbr>\n½ cup white wine\u003cbr>\n½ cup high-quality tomato paste\u003cbr>\n1 cup cream (optional)\u003cbr>\nSalt and pepper to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Dice the onions, celery and carrots into a mirepoix -- cubes smaller than 1/4 inch in size. As you are dicing the vegetables and mincing the fresh herbs, start cooking your meat. Use a heavy bottomed Dutch oven or stew pot. This is essential. The bottom of the pan has to be thick and heavy enough to brown the meat, without scorching it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Use high heat to start your browning process. But keep an eye on it, and adjust the flame accordingly. It’s okay for the meat to stick and brown, but you don't want it to blacken or burn.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. After you have built an even layer of fond on the bottom, toss your vegetables on top of the meat. Leave them there for at least 15 minutes, allowing them to release their juices to the bottom of the pan. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Give your meat and vegetable a rigorous stir with a wooden spoon, and scrape up the fond layer that has now been deglazed by the vegetables. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5. Turn up heat slightly, and allow this to cook down and brown again, then add a shot of wine -- no more than a cup. Stir and scrape. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6. Allow this to cook down again. When browned, add a cup of stock. Repeat the process and add your tomato paste, diluted with a half cup of stock.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>7. Watch your ragu carefully at this point. The addition of tomato paste could lead to scorching. Keep the heat up, but stir it regularly as the fond starts to reform. When it is nice and brown, but not scorched, add two or three cups of stock -- enough to make it slightly more soupy than you'd want for a sauce. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>8. At this point, your ragu should have a lovely, brownish-red color. Bring it to a boil and then turn down to a simmer. Allow it to simmer for two to four hours, stirring occasionally and adding more stock, if necessary. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>9. Before serving, you have the option of adding cream -- as much or as little as you want. Too much cream will dilute the intensity of the sauce, so be judicious at first.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>10. You can take this basic sauce in many different directions. Add minced porcini mushrooms early in the cooking for an earthier flavor, or cinnamon or nutmeg to give it a spicy edge. Use different combinations of fresh herbs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>11. The final step, of course, is marrying the ragu with the pasta. Don't just ladle it on top. Cook your pasta just short of al dente, then mix it thoroughly in a skillet with an appropriate amount of sauce and then serve it immediately. Sprinkle some Parmesan cheese on top, and you will be ready to sing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/ragu400.jpg\" alt=\"ragu\" title=\"ragu\" width=\"400\" height=\"297\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-4665\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>This is what ragu should look like when finished\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "San Francisco Smoke-Screen",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/sneaky2.jpg\" alt=\"Sneakys bbq meat on the grill\" title=\"Sneakys bbq meat on the grill\" width=\"320\" height=\"240\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-4429\">Barbecue is literally the slowest of slow foods, not a sauce, but a process, a ponderous and primitive one often measured in days as much as hours. It's much more than mere technique. Like a Bedouin goat roast or a Hawaiian luau, barbecue is a festive carnivorous rite, the sort of party humans all over the world have thrown ever since they could catch the beasts they wanted to eat. Barbecue is a distinctly American tradition, however, and it warrants esteem in our food culture, one that increasingly values authenticity, heritage, and, importantly, a bargain. Historically, barbecue began as poor food. Indirect smoking with hardwood chips and charcoal renders sumptuous feeds from large, inexpensive, uncompromising cuts of meat the non-wealthy can readily afford. Today, due to trend as well as economic circumstance, food writers and chefs champion sustainability, rhapsodize about nose-to-tail eating, and fetishize la \u003ca href=\"http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/548870\">cucina povera\u003c/a> across cultures. Hip local foodies head to starred eateries to scarf humble \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ribollita\">ribollita\u003c/a> and marrow, and food glossies aggressively explore the homey cooking traditions of everyday people in distant locales. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp> Even though food tied firmly to a place invariably tastes best in its native setting, barbecue should have a stronger presence here. Sadly, like real bagels and perfect pizza slices, there's something about it San Francisco doesn't quite get.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>L.A. export \u003ca href=\"http://www.babybluessf.com\">Baby Blues BBQ\u003c/a> sits in an old pharmacy storefront on Mission Street at the base of Bernal Hill in San Francisco. The restaurant headed up the S.F. Chronicle's flimsy \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2009/02/12/DDHI15O74D.DTL\">\"new-school\"\u003c/a> Bay Area barbecue round-up back in February. In the article, the proprietor described his establishment's style as a hybrid, with dry rub from Texas, greens from Kansas City, and grilled shrimp from New Orleans. While only one of those things necessarily has anything whatsoever to do with barbecue, I withheld preliminary judgement, assuming I'd look for proof in the pork. The same writer, Amanda Gold, penned a largely favorable review less than two months later, hailing Baby Blues' offerings as \"\u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2009/04/02/DDI616N0KI.DTL\">spot-on\u003c/a>,\" and singling out the brisket and ribs in particular for accolades. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The brisket was, in fact, good -- shredded, not sliced as is customary, slightly sweet, with a broad, warm flavor that belied the stringy appearance. On the other hand, the chicken was desert-dry and the pork shoulder shockingly tasteless. Sauce helped but it shouldn't have been necessary. Good barbecue doesn't truly need sauce, maybe just a splash of vinegary Crystal. The Baby Blues macaroni and cheese was pretty tasty but that came as no surprise. The tidy tureen of pasta, butter, cream, and cheese congregated in creamy, crust-topped ooze resembled a miniature version of one of the less flamboyant goofily greasy things you'd see on \u003ca href=\"http://thisiswhyyourefat.com/\">thisiswhyyourefat.com\u003c/a>. Pork and beans: dreary canned ones of various stripes, topped with some of the same tasteless pork shoulder. Mashed sweet potatoes: one-dimensional and cloying. Great sides are not a prerequisite for even serviceable barbecue but they sure help, especially when a bunch of people are trying to eat until they can't walk.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dodging categorization is no boon when it comes to barbecue. Homogenizing its varied nuances with the perceived intent of garnering broader appeal smacks of desperation or at least excessive compromise, not inclusivity. Barbecue pit-masters, are curators of sorts. They consciously nurture and carry on a tradition, just making something they really, really know exactly the way they think it should be made for anyone who happens to be interested. Diners prize authenticity when it comes to regional Italian fare; they should when it comes to barbecue as well.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Maybe we're barking up the wrong tree even hoping to find what we're looking for at a place like Baby Blues. Throughout the barbecue belt, you'll eat some of the best barbecue in the world at church benefit suppers, desolate country grocery stores on two-lane roads, and strange little delis straddling dusty cracks in the interstate, not just at grand 'cue emporiums with bright lights and long lines. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fittingly, in keeping with another current trend, that of back alley catering and restaurant-esque entities sprouting up all over town, the d.i.y. barbecue operations churning away on the edges of the local food scene actually best the likes of Baby Blues, \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.kqed.org/food/2006/09/21/memphis-minnies-reviews/\">Memphis Minnie's\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/big-nates-bar-b-que-san-francisco\">Big Nate's\u003c/a>. There's definitely something appealing about outlaw status, and barbecue wears it especially well, even here. While the best pork barbecue I've had in San Francisco had to fly 2,000 miles from a deli case in Allen County, Kentucky, there are a few local super-smokers doing it right under-the-radar:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/sneaky1.jpg\" alt=\"Sneakys bbq\" title=\"Sneakys bbq\" width=\"320\" height=\"240\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-4428\">Try ordering a spread from Oakland-based \u003ca href=\"http://www.sneakysbbq.blogspot.com\">Sneaky's BBQ\u003c/a> for your next business meeting. Since 2008, the smoker-in-chief, a native of South Carolina, has been faithfully recreating the barbecue he knew back home -- husky, succulent pork shoulder with pepper-flecked vinegar-laced red sauce and racks of chewy baby-back ribs -- and delivering it, quite sneakily, in an unmarked van (red like the sauce), to homes, offices, and even park parties. It's popping off on \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/sneakys-bbq-san-francisco\">Yelp\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/484818#4581571\">Chowhound\u003c/a> for a reason. It tastes like vigilance. When you're eating it, you easily imagine the whole ritual -- the meat hitting the grill just after rush hour, and coming off, sticky-black, hours and hours later, as well as the sleepless night vigil, the sense, perhaps, of beers drunk and cigarettes smoked, of bleary eyes peering down and smudged hands reaching to open and close flutes at the proper intervals while the rest of the neighborhood sleeps.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.brokenrecordsf.com\">The Broken Record\u003c/a> is a mildly Zeigeist-y bar in the Excelsior. Chef Ryan Ostler, an alum of Boulevard, doesn't own it but he cooks from behind a wooden, windowed counter buried in the back. He's a \u003ca href=\"http://blog.missionstreetfood.com/\">Mission Street Food\u003c/a> veteran, no stranger to the underground eatery game. The bar's offerings run the gamut from frito pies and amazing 'kraut-topped boar and pheasant sausages (sweet, high-flying stoner-pub party fare, yes, but not barbecue) to pulled pork sandwiches (serious barbecue). Of course, it's a chef's whim kind of place at heart. Sometimes, you show up and the pork isn't done. Or it is done, but it hasn't been carved up yet. Or it was ready hours ago and now there's none left. According to Ostler, they smoke every day, but quantities are limited. If you miss out, eat a sausage. Barbecue is not, after all, on-demand.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.babybluessf.com\">Baby Blues BBQ\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n3149 Mission St. in San Francisco\u003cbr>\n415-896-4250\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.sneakysbbq.blogspot.com\">Sneaky's BBQ\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.brokenrecordsf.com\">The Broken Record\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n1166 Geneva Ave. in San Francisco\u003cbr>\n415-963-1713\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "In keeping with another current trend, that of back alley catering and restaurant-esque entities sprouting up all over town, d.i.y. barbecue operations churning away on the edges of the local food scene actually best the likes of Baby Blues, Memphis Minnie's, and Big Nate's. There's definitely something appealing about outlaw status, and barbecue wears it especially well, even here.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/sneaky2.jpg\" alt=\"Sneakys bbq meat on the grill\" title=\"Sneakys bbq meat on the grill\" width=\"320\" height=\"240\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-4429\">Barbecue is literally the slowest of slow foods, not a sauce, but a process, a ponderous and primitive one often measured in days as much as hours. It's much more than mere technique. Like a Bedouin goat roast or a Hawaiian luau, barbecue is a festive carnivorous rite, the sort of party humans all over the world have thrown ever since they could catch the beasts they wanted to eat. Barbecue is a distinctly American tradition, however, and it warrants esteem in our food culture, one that increasingly values authenticity, heritage, and, importantly, a bargain. Historically, barbecue began as poor food. Indirect smoking with hardwood chips and charcoal renders sumptuous feeds from large, inexpensive, uncompromising cuts of meat the non-wealthy can readily afford. Today, due to trend as well as economic circumstance, food writers and chefs champion sustainability, rhapsodize about nose-to-tail eating, and fetishize la \u003ca href=\"http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/548870\">cucina povera\u003c/a> across cultures. Hip local foodies head to starred eateries to scarf humble \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ribollita\">ribollita\u003c/a> and marrow, and food glossies aggressively explore the homey cooking traditions of everyday people in distant locales. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp> Even though food tied firmly to a place invariably tastes best in its native setting, barbecue should have a stronger presence here. Sadly, like real bagels and perfect pizza slices, there's something about it San Francisco doesn't quite get.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>L.A. export \u003ca href=\"http://www.babybluessf.com\">Baby Blues BBQ\u003c/a> sits in an old pharmacy storefront on Mission Street at the base of Bernal Hill in San Francisco. The restaurant headed up the S.F. Chronicle's flimsy \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2009/02/12/DDHI15O74D.DTL\">\"new-school\"\u003c/a> Bay Area barbecue round-up back in February. In the article, the proprietor described his establishment's style as a hybrid, with dry rub from Texas, greens from Kansas City, and grilled shrimp from New Orleans. While only one of those things necessarily has anything whatsoever to do with barbecue, I withheld preliminary judgement, assuming I'd look for proof in the pork. The same writer, Amanda Gold, penned a largely favorable review less than two months later, hailing Baby Blues' offerings as \"\u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2009/04/02/DDI616N0KI.DTL\">spot-on\u003c/a>,\" and singling out the brisket and ribs in particular for accolades. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The brisket was, in fact, good -- shredded, not sliced as is customary, slightly sweet, with a broad, warm flavor that belied the stringy appearance. On the other hand, the chicken was desert-dry and the pork shoulder shockingly tasteless. Sauce helped but it shouldn't have been necessary. Good barbecue doesn't truly need sauce, maybe just a splash of vinegary Crystal. The Baby Blues macaroni and cheese was pretty tasty but that came as no surprise. The tidy tureen of pasta, butter, cream, and cheese congregated in creamy, crust-topped ooze resembled a miniature version of one of the less flamboyant goofily greasy things you'd see on \u003ca href=\"http://thisiswhyyourefat.com/\">thisiswhyyourefat.com\u003c/a>. Pork and beans: dreary canned ones of various stripes, topped with some of the same tasteless pork shoulder. Mashed sweet potatoes: one-dimensional and cloying. Great sides are not a prerequisite for even serviceable barbecue but they sure help, especially when a bunch of people are trying to eat until they can't walk.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dodging categorization is no boon when it comes to barbecue. Homogenizing its varied nuances with the perceived intent of garnering broader appeal smacks of desperation or at least excessive compromise, not inclusivity. Barbecue pit-masters, are curators of sorts. They consciously nurture and carry on a tradition, just making something they really, really know exactly the way they think it should be made for anyone who happens to be interested. Diners prize authenticity when it comes to regional Italian fare; they should when it comes to barbecue as well.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Maybe we're barking up the wrong tree even hoping to find what we're looking for at a place like Baby Blues. Throughout the barbecue belt, you'll eat some of the best barbecue in the world at church benefit suppers, desolate country grocery stores on two-lane roads, and strange little delis straddling dusty cracks in the interstate, not just at grand 'cue emporiums with bright lights and long lines. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fittingly, in keeping with another current trend, that of back alley catering and restaurant-esque entities sprouting up all over town, the d.i.y. barbecue operations churning away on the edges of the local food scene actually best the likes of Baby Blues, \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.kqed.org/food/2006/09/21/memphis-minnies-reviews/\">Memphis Minnie's\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/big-nates-bar-b-que-san-francisco\">Big Nate's\u003c/a>. There's definitely something appealing about outlaw status, and barbecue wears it especially well, even here. While the best pork barbecue I've had in San Francisco had to fly 2,000 miles from a deli case in Allen County, Kentucky, there are a few local super-smokers doing it right under-the-radar:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/sneaky1.jpg\" alt=\"Sneakys bbq\" title=\"Sneakys bbq\" width=\"320\" height=\"240\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-4428\">Try ordering a spread from Oakland-based \u003ca href=\"http://www.sneakysbbq.blogspot.com\">Sneaky's BBQ\u003c/a> for your next business meeting. Since 2008, the smoker-in-chief, a native of South Carolina, has been faithfully recreating the barbecue he knew back home -- husky, succulent pork shoulder with pepper-flecked vinegar-laced red sauce and racks of chewy baby-back ribs -- and delivering it, quite sneakily, in an unmarked van (red like the sauce), to homes, offices, and even park parties. It's popping off on \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/sneakys-bbq-san-francisco\">Yelp\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/484818#4581571\">Chowhound\u003c/a> for a reason. It tastes like vigilance. When you're eating it, you easily imagine the whole ritual -- the meat hitting the grill just after rush hour, and coming off, sticky-black, hours and hours later, as well as the sleepless night vigil, the sense, perhaps, of beers drunk and cigarettes smoked, of bleary eyes peering down and smudged hands reaching to open and close flutes at the proper intervals while the rest of the neighborhood sleeps.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.brokenrecordsf.com\">The Broken Record\u003c/a> is a mildly Zeigeist-y bar in the Excelsior. Chef Ryan Ostler, an alum of Boulevard, doesn't own it but he cooks from behind a wooden, windowed counter buried in the back. He's a \u003ca href=\"http://blog.missionstreetfood.com/\">Mission Street Food\u003c/a> veteran, no stranger to the underground eatery game. The bar's offerings run the gamut from frito pies and amazing 'kraut-topped boar and pheasant sausages (sweet, high-flying stoner-pub party fare, yes, but not barbecue) to pulled pork sandwiches (serious barbecue). Of course, it's a chef's whim kind of place at heart. Sometimes, you show up and the pork isn't done. Or it is done, but it hasn't been carved up yet. Or it was ready hours ago and now there's none left. According to Ostler, they smoke every day, but quantities are limited. If you miss out, eat a sausage. Barbecue is not, after all, on-demand.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.babybluessf.com\">Baby Blues BBQ\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n3149 Mission St. in San Francisco\u003cbr>\n415-896-4250\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.sneakysbbq.blogspot.com\">Sneaky's BBQ\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"info": "A one-hour radio program to hear celebrated writers, artists and thinkers address contemporary ideas and values, often discussing the creative process. Please note: tapes or transcripts are not available",
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"airtime": "SUN 1pm-2pm, TUE 10pm, WED 1am",
"meta": {
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"source": "City Arts & Lectures"
},
"link": "https://www.cityarts.net",
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"rss": "https://www.cityarts.net/feed/"
}
},
"closealltabs": {
"id": "closealltabs",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "/podcasts/closealltabs",
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"order": 1
},
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"id": "code-switch-life-kit",
"title": "Code Switch / Life Kit",
"info": "\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em>, which listeners will hear in the first part of the hour, has fearless and much-needed conversations about race. Hosted by journalists of color, the show tackles the subject of race head-on, exploring how it impacts every part of society — from politics and pop culture to history, sports and more.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em>, which will be in the second part of the hour, guides you through spaces and feelings no one prepares you for — from finances to mental health, from workplace microaggressions to imposter syndrome, from relationships to parenting. The show features experts with real world experience and shares their knowledge. Because everyone needs a little help being human.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/510312/codeswitch\">\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/lifekit\">\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />",
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"id": "commonwealth-club",
"title": "Commonwealth Club of California Podcast",
"info": "The Commonwealth Club of California is the nation's oldest and largest public affairs forum. As a non-partisan forum, The Club brings to the public airwaves diverse viewpoints on important topics. The Club's weekly radio broadcast - the oldest in the U.S., dating back to 1924 - is carried across the nation on public radio stations and is now podcasting. Our website archive features audio of our recent programs, as well as selected speeches from our long and distinguished history. This podcast feed is usually updated twice a week and is always un-edited.",
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"meta": {
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"source": "Commonwealth Club of California"
},
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cDovL3d3dy5jb21tb253ZWFsdGhjbHViLm9yZy9hdWRpby9wb2RjYXN0L3dlZWtseS54bWw",
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"title": "Forum",
"tagline": "The conversation starts here",
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"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Forum-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
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"order": 9
},
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM5NTU3MzgxNjMz",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "http://freakonomics.com/",
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"meta": {
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"source": "WNYC"
},
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/freakonomics-radio/id354668519",
"tuneIn": "https://tunein.com/podcasts/WNYC-Podcasts/Freakonomics-Radio-p272293/",
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},
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"id": "fresh-air",
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=214089682&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory",
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"info": "A live production of NPR and WBUR Boston, in collaboration with stations across the country, Here & Now reflects the fluid world of news as it's happening in the middle of the day, with timely, in-depth news, interviews and conversation. Hosted by Robin Young, Jeremy Hobson and Tonya Mosley.",
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"hidden-brain": {
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"info": "Shankar Vedantam uses science and storytelling to reveal the unconscious patterns that drive human behavior, shape our choices and direct our relationships.",
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"airtime": "SUN 7pm-8pm",
"meta": {
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"source": "NPR"
},
"link": "/radio/program/hidden-brain",
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"how-i-built-this": {
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"title": "How I Built This with Guy Raz",
"info": "Guy Raz dives into the stories behind some of the world's best known companies. How I Built This weaves a narrative journey about innovators, entrepreneurs and idealists—and the movements they built.",
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"airtime": "SUN 7:30pm-8pm",
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"link": "/radio/program/how-i-built-this",
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/how-i-built-this-with-guy-raz/id1150510297?mt=2",
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"hyphenacion": {
"id": "hyphenacion",
"title": "Hyphenación",
"tagline": "Where conversation and cultura meet",
"info": "What kind of no sabo word is Hyphenación? For us, it’s about living within a hyphenation. Like being a third-gen Mexican-American from the Texas border now living that Bay Area Chicano life. Like Xorje! Each week we bring together a couple of hyphenated Latinos to talk all about personal life choices: family, careers, relationships, belonging … everything is on the table. ",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2025/03/Hyphenacion_FinalAssets_PodcastTile.png",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "/podcasts/hyphenacion",
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"order": 15
},
"link": "/podcasts/hyphenacion",
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"spotify": "https://open.spotify.com/show/2p3Fifq96nw9BPcmFdIq0o?si=39209f7b25774f38",
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},
"jerrybrown": {
"id": "jerrybrown",
"title": "The Political Mind of Jerry Brown",
"tagline": "Lessons from a lifetime in politics",
"info": "The Political Mind of Jerry Brown brings listeners the wisdom of the former Governor, Mayor, and presidential candidate. Scott Shafer interviewed Brown for more than 40 hours, covering the former governor's life and half-century in the political game – and Brown has some lessons he'd like to share. ",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/The-Political-Mind-of-Jerry-Brown-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "/podcasts/jerrybrown",
"meta": {
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"order": 18
},
"link": "/podcasts/jerrybrown",
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/id1492194549",
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},
"latino-usa": {
"id": "latino-usa",
"title": "Latino USA",
"airtime": "MON 1am-2am, SUN 6pm-7pm",
"info": "Latino USA, the radio journal of news and culture, is the only national, English-language radio program produced from a Latino perspective.",
"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/latinoUsa.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "http://latinousa.org/",
"meta": {
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},
"link": "/radio/program/latino-usa",
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=79681317&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory",
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"rss": "https://feeds.npr.org/510016/podcast.xml"
}
},
"marketplace": {
"id": "marketplace",
"title": "Marketplace",
"info": "Our flagship program, helmed by Kai Ryssdal, examines what the day in money delivered, through stories, conversations, newsworthy numbers and more. Updated Monday through Friday at about 3:30 p.m. PT.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 4pm-4:30pm, MON-WED 6:30pm-7pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Marketplace-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.marketplace.org/",
"meta": {
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"source": "American Public Media"
},
"link": "/radio/program/marketplace",
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},
"masters-of-scale": {
"id": "masters-of-scale",
"title": "Masters of Scale",
"info": "Masters of Scale is an original podcast in which LinkedIn co-founder and Greylock Partner Reid Hoffman sets out to describe and prove theories that explain how great entrepreneurs take their companies from zero to a gazillion in ingenious fashion.",
"airtime": "Every other Wednesday June 12 through October 16 at 8pm (repeats Thursdays at 2am)",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "https://mastersofscale.com/",
"meta": {
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"source": "WaitWhat"
},
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"rss": "https://rss.art19.com/masters-of-scale"
}
},
"mindshift": {
"id": "mindshift",
"title": "MindShift",
"tagline": "A podcast about the future of learning and how we raise our kids",
"info": "The MindShift podcast explores the innovations in education that are shaping how kids learn. Hosts Ki Sung and Katrina Schwartz introduce listeners to educators, researchers, parents and students who are developing effective ways to improve how kids learn. We cover topics like how fed-up administrators are developing surprising tactics to deal with classroom disruptions; how listening to podcasts are helping kids develop reading skills; the consequences of overparenting; and why interdisciplinary learning can engage students on all ends of the traditional achievement spectrum. This podcast is part of the MindShift education site, a division of KQED News. KQED is an NPR/PBS member station based in San Francisco. You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Mindshift-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
"imageAlt": "KQED MindShift: How We Will Learn",
"officialWebsiteLink": "/mindshift/",
"meta": {
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"source": "kqed",
"order": 12
},
"link": "/podcasts/mindshift",
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM1NzY0NjAwNDI5",
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}
},
"morning-edition": {
"id": "morning-edition",
"title": "Morning Edition",
"info": "\u003cem>Morning Edition\u003c/em> takes listeners around the country and the world with multi-faceted stories and commentaries every weekday. Hosts Steve Inskeep, David Greene and Rachel Martin bring you the latest breaking news and features to prepare you for the day.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 3am-9am",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Morning-Edition-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.npr.org/programs/morning-edition/",
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"link": "/radio/program/morning-edition"
},
"onourwatch": {
"id": "onourwatch",
"title": "On Our Watch",
"tagline": "Deeply-reported investigative journalism",
"info": "For decades, the process for how police police themselves has been inconsistent – if not opaque. In some states, like California, these proceedings were completely hidden. After a new police transparency law unsealed scores of internal affairs files, our reporters set out to examine these cases and the shadow world of police discipline. On Our Watch brings listeners into the rooms where officers are questioned and witnesses are interrogated to find out who this system is really protecting. Is it the officers, or the public they've sworn to serve?",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/On-Our-Watch-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "/podcasts/onourwatch",
"meta": {
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"source": "kqed",
"order": 11
},
"link": "/podcasts/onourwatch",
"subscribe": {
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5ucHIub3JnLzUxMDM2MC9wb2RjYXN0LnhtbD9zYz1nb29nbGVwb2RjYXN0cw",
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},
"on-the-media": {
"id": "on-the-media",
"title": "On The Media",
"info": "Our weekly podcast explores how the media 'sausage' is made, casts an incisive eye on fluctuations in the marketplace of ideas, and examines threats to the freedom of information and expression in America and abroad. For one hour a week, the show tries to lift the veil from the process of \"making media,\" especially news media, because it's through that lens that we see the world and the world sees us",
"airtime": "SUN 2pm-3pm, MON 12am-1am",
"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/onTheMedia.png",
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"meta": {
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"source": "wnyc"
},
"link": "/radio/program/on-the-media",
"subscribe": {
"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/on-the-media/id73330715?mt=2",
"tuneIn": "https://tunein.com/radio/On-the-Media-p69/",
"rss": "http://feeds.wnyc.org/onthemedia"
}
},
"pbs-newshour": {
"id": "pbs-newshour",
"title": "PBS NewsHour",
"info": "Analysis, background reports and updates from the PBS NewsHour putting today's news in context.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 3pm-4pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/PBS-News-Hour-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.pbs.org/newshour/",
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"source": "pbs"
},
"link": "/radio/program/pbs-newshour",
"subscribe": {
"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/pbs-newshour-full-show/id394432287?mt=2",
"tuneIn": "https://tunein.com/radio/PBS-NewsHour---Full-Show-p425698/",
"rss": "https://www.pbs.org/newshour/feeds/rss/podcasts/show"
}
},
"perspectives": {
"id": "perspectives",
"title": "Perspectives",
"tagline": "KQED's series of daily listener commentaries since 1991",
"info": "KQED's series of daily listener commentaries since 1991.",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2025/01/Perspectives_Tile_Final.jpg",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "/perspectives/",
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"source": "kqed",
"order": 14
},
"link": "/perspectives",
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