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"disqusTitle": "The Fatted Calf's New Cookbook Brings Charcuterie Favorites Into Your Kitchen",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_70450\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 600px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/Boet_In-the-Charcuterie.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/Boet_In-the-Charcuterie.jpg\" alt=\"This fantastically detailed cookbook from celebrated Fatted Calf chefs Taylor Boetticher and Toponia Miller comes out this week. Cover Photo: Alex Farnum\" width=\"600\" height=\"666\" class=\"size-full wp-image-70450\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">This fantastically detailed cookbook from celebrated Fatted Calf chefs Taylor Boetticher and Toponia Miller comes out this week. Cover Photo: Alex Farnum\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>DIY charcuterie is, admittedly, not something every home cook is dying to tackle. On top of the fact that there is equipment to buy and meat to source, there is something magical about well-made sausages, terrines, and confits that makes them seem out of reach for the average kitchen weekend warrior. With the arrival of their new cookbook, \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/In-The-Charcuterie-Sausage-Confits/dp/1607743434\">\u003cem>In the Charcuterie\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, Taylor Boetticher and Toponia Miller, the acclaimed husband-and-wife duo from the \u003ca href=\"http://www.fattedcalf.com/\">Fatted Calf Charcuterie\u003c/a>, aim to change that perception.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_70465\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/boetticher-and-miller.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/boetticher-and-miller.jpg\" alt=\"Taylor Boetticher and Toponia Miller. Photo: Jessica Goodson\" width=\"1000\" height=\"647\" class=\"size-full wp-image-70465\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Taylor Boetticher and Toponia Miller. Photo: Jessica Goodson\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Boetticher and Miller’s book is at once a glossy showpiece, a culinary reference, and a hands-on cookbook. Like most cookbooks coming out of \u003ca href=\"http://crownpublishing.com/imprint/ten-speed-press/\">Ten Speed Press\u003c/a>, it is beautifully designed and photographed; in addition, it is hard to flip through a few pages without learning something. “We wanted it to be, you know, a good reference point for people’s culinary adventures and for it to be...a way of thinking about food and how certain flavors work together,” said Boetticher. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Boetticher and Miller started the Fatted Calf back in 2003. At first, their charcuterie operation was small-scale and focused only on selling at the \u003ca href=\"http://ecologycenter.org/fm/\">Saturday Berkeley Farmers' Market\u003c/a>. Each worked part-time jobs—Boetticher at \u003ca href=\"http://www.lanesplitterpizza.com/\">Lanesplitter Pizza\u003c/a> in West Berkeley and Miller at \u003ca href=\"http://www.stonehouseoliveoil.com/\">Stonehouse Olive Oil\u003c/a> in the Ferry Plaza—to support their fledgling business. Once they were admitted into the \u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org/markets\">Ferry Plaza Farmers’ Market\u003c/a>, their business really picked up and they decided it was time to open a brick-and-mortar shop.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The pair knew they wanted to stay within a public market context. The Ferry Building was all booked up, but there was an opening at the newly emerging \u003ca href=\"http://oxbowpublicmarket.com/\">Oxbow Public Market\u003c/a> in Napa. It was a “huge life change” but in the end, Boetticher said, it was the right move. The Fatted Calf store opened up at the end of January 2008, just in time for the stock market to tumble. “In hindsight, it made me stronger, but at the time it was absolutely terrifying,” he said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_70454\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/salad-with-gizzards1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/salad-with-gizzards1.jpg\" alt=\"A chicory salad featuring the Fatted Calf’s duck gizzard confit was served at the book’s launch event in Napa. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-70454\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A chicory salad featuring the Fatted Calf’s duck gizzard confit was served at the book’s launch event in Napa. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Despite the hard opening, Boetticher and Miller’s store has proven to be wildly successful. Right around the time that they were opening up their Hayes Valley store, the pair started talking to Ten Speed about putting together a cookbook. “At this point we had developed enough recipes, we worked with enough good vendors, and we also had enough really good staff working with us that we would be able to step away for a day or so a week,” Boetticher said. “It was something that Toponia and I had wanted to do for a long time. We didn’t know what it was going to be [yet], but after making charcuterie for this amount of time, it seemed to make sense.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Luckily, they had found a good team over at Ten Speed that was willing to let Boetticher and Miller shape an untraditional meat cookbook. Despite the fact that there are close to 40 pages detailing the precise method for breaking down cows, pigs, goats, lambs, rabbits, ducks, and chickens, \u003cem>In the Charcuterie\u003c/em> is not a particularly masculine book. As Boetticher explained, “We didn’t want it to be a dude food, ‘Let's throw a ton of animals on the fire’ kind of thing. We wanted it to have a little bit more of a refined sensibility.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_70451\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/fig-stuffed-quail1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/fig-stuffed-quail1.jpg\" alt=\"Boetticher and Miller’s recipe for fig and sausage stuffed quail, which is a hit in their stores, is included in the cookbook. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-70451\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Boetticher and Miller’s recipe for fig and sausage stuffed quail, which is a hit in their stores, is included in the cookbook. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The book, like the philosophy of the shop itself, strays away from the more modernist trends in cooking. \u003ca href=\"http://www.sousvidesupreme.com/\">Immersion circulators\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://www.vitamix.com/\">Vitamixes\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.pacojet.com/en/\">PacoJets\u003c/a> are not required. Instead, the recipes blend classic French technique with updated flavors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This emphasis on traditional methods helps to keep the book accessible. Yes, some recipes, like the headcheese or blood sausage, require a great deal of work and many days of commitment. However, many of the others (like the recipes featured below) require little more than a knife, some string, and patience. Natural kitchen skills are not necessarily required. To the Fatted Calf duo, making charcuterie is “more about preparation and planning than it is about raw talent or being a natural genius at something. It’s a lot more important than having a natural palate or having a good touch with a boning knife.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In addition, the two clearly recognize that great charcuterie takes practice. The recipes are written in great detail, with encouragement and experimentation in mind. Boetticher noted, “One of the things we try to hammer home a lot is that these things take practice, and not to get discouraged if your first efforts don’t go the way you intended them to. But also that if you pay attention and you take the time you need and you don’t take shortcuts, then your food will be phenomenal.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But what of those complex terrines and fermented sausages, you ask? How can an ordinary home cook tackle projects that large? Boetticher recommends a charcuterie party.\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp> “Because [charcuterie] is pretty labor intensive, it’s [a good thing] to do with friends or with family, whether it’s making a two pound batch of sausage or cutting up a whole hog for the freezer. It really fosters a sense of community.”\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003ch3>Events:\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>Saturday September 21, 3pm (Free)\u003cbr>\nBook signing at \u003ca href=\"http://www.omnivorebooks.com/events.html\">Omnivore Books\u003c/a>, 3885a Cesar Chavez St., San Francisco, CA 94131\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sunday September 22, 11am ($50 with copy of book, $35 without book)\u003cbr>\nTasting and book signing at \u003ca href=\"http://www.robertsinskey.com/fetes/book-signing-with-fatted-calf/\">Robert Sinskey Vineyards\u003c/a>, 6320 Silverado Trail, Napa, CA 94558\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Information:\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.fattedcalf.com/\">Fatted Calf Charcuterie\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Napa Address:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://goo.gl/AM3dKN\">Map\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n644 C First Street\u003cbr>\nNapa, CA 94559\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Phone:\u003c/strong> (707) 256-3684\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>San Francisco Address:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://goo.gl/77UK8v\">Map\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n320 Fell Street\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Phone:\u003c/strong> (415) 400-5614\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Facebook:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/FattedCalf\">Fatted Calf Charcuterie\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Twitter:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/FattedCalf\">@FattedCalf\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_70453\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 600px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/Pork-Shoulder-Pot-Roast-Stuffed-with-Garlic.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/Pork-Shoulder-Pot-Roast-Stuffed-with-Garlic.jpg\" alt=\"Pork Shoulder Pot Roast with Garlic. Photo: Alex Farnum\" width=\"600\" height=\"669\" class=\"size-full wp-image-70453\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pork Shoulder Pot Roast with Garlic. Photo: Alex Farnum\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: Pork Shoulder Pot Roast Stuffed with Garlic, Greens, and Walnuts\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Chock-full of greens, this simple pork shoulder pot roast, made with Boston butt, makes a nourishing and comforting supper. Abundant, leafy Swiss chard tends to be available year-round and is the standard for this stuffing, but it is equally good made with spinach, mustard, kale, or other seasonal greens.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Serves 8 to 10\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>1 whole boneless, skinless pork Boston butt, about 8 pounds (3.6 kg)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\nFine sea salt and freshly ground pepper\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3 bunches Swiss chard or other leafy greens, stemmed\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>10 cloves garlic, sliced paper-thin\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3/4 cup (85 g) chopped toasted walnuts\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 1/2 cups (360 ml) pork, chicken, or duck broth\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 1/2 cups (360 ml) cups dry red wine\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003col>\n\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>One day in advance of cooking, season and ready the roast for stuffing. First, make the pocket for the stuffing by making a horizontal cut through the middle of the roast, following the seam where the bone was removed. Leave one of the four edges completely intact. Open the roast like a book. Season liberally on both sides with salt and pepper. Close the book, wrap tightly with plastic wrap, and refrigerate overnight.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Remove the roast from the refrigerator and allow it to temper for 2 hours. Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C).\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Bring a large pot of salted water to a rolling boil. Add the chard leaves and blanch for about 2 minutes. Drain and let cool, then squeeze out any excess water. Chop the chard coarsely.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Open the pork shoulder like a book, with the intact edge on your left. Arrange the chard in the center of the roast in a neat layer, leaving a 1-inch (2.5 cm) border uncovered surrounding it. Distribute the garlic evenly over the chard, followed by the walnuts. Fold the top part of the roast over the stuffing and tie tightly with butcher’s twine in three places, spacing the loops evenly and reinforcing the book shape.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Outfit a large braiser with a rack. Place the pork shoulder, fatty side facing up, on the rack. (If you don’t have a rack that fits your pot, halve a few leeks lengthwise, place them on the bottom of the pot, and put the roast on the leeks; they will support the roast nicely during cooking.)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Transfer the pot to the oven and roast for about 45 minutes. Remove the pot from the oven and carefully pour off the rendered fat. Reserve these pan drippings for another use. Add the broth and wine to the pot and return it to the oven. Turn down the oven temperature to 300°F (150°C) and continue to cook, basting the roast every 30 minutes, for about 21/2 hours. The roast is ready when it is a rich golden brown, fork-tender, and a bit wobbly.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Transfer the roast to a cutting board and let it rest for 20 minutes. Snip the twine and cut the roast into thick slices. Bathe each serving with a spoonful of the cooking juices.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_70452\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 600px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/Lamb-Rib-Chops-with-Ras-el-Hanout.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/Lamb-Rib-Chops-with-Ras-el-Hanout.jpg\" alt=\"Lamb Rib Chops with Ras el Hanout. Photo: Alex Farnum\" width=\"600\" height=\"669\" class=\"size-full wp-image-70452\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Lamb Rib Chops with Ras el Hanout. Photo: Alex Farnum\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: Lamb Rib Chops with Ras el Hanout\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Ras el hanout is a classic North African spice blend. Loosely translated it means “head of the shop,” symbolizing the best the spice merchant has to offer. Traditionally, the blend contains a panorama of different spices, usually about twenty but sometimes many more, and each merchant has his or her own recipe. Although we generally advocate toasting and grinding your own spices, we love the perfectly balanced blend available from our neighbors at Whole Spice in Napa. In their version, allspice, bay leaf, black pepper, white pepper, cardamom, cinnamon, chile, clove, cumin, ginger, mace, nutmeg, saffron, rosebuds, and more are carefully combined and ground to produce a truly aromatic mix perfect for seasoning lamb.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Serves 4\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>8 lamb rib chops\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Fine sea salt\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 cloves garlic, crushed\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 dried bay leaves\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tablespoon thinly sliced orange rind\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tablespoon \u003cem>ras el hanout\u003c/em>\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003col>\n\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>Season the lamb chops on both sides with salt.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>In a large, shallow bowl, combine the garlic, bay, orange rind, and olive oil and mix well. Add the lamb chops to the bowl and turn as needed to coat evenly. Sprinkle the \u003cem>ras el hanout\u003c/em> over the lamb chops and again turn as needed to coat evenly.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>To grill the chops, prepare a medium-hot fire for direct-heat grilling in a charcoal grill. Place the chops on the grill grate directly over the coals and grill, turning them once, for about 2 minutes on each side for rare or about 3 minutes on each side for medium-rare to medium. Serve at once.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Alternatively, to cook on the stove top, heat a large cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat until hot. Add the chops and cook, turning often, for about 5 to 7 minutes total. Serve at once.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Recipes reprinted with permission from In the Charcuterie by Taylor Boetticher and Toponia Miller, copyright (c) 2013. Published by Ten Speed Press, a division of Random House, Inc.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Taylor Boetticher and Toponia Miller, the husband-and-wife team behind Napa and S.F.'s Fatted Calf, released their first cookbook this week. Boetticher sat down with BAB's Kate Williams to talk the ins-and-outs of butchery and book publication.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_70450\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 600px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/Boet_In-the-Charcuterie.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/Boet_In-the-Charcuterie.jpg\" alt=\"This fantastically detailed cookbook from celebrated Fatted Calf chefs Taylor Boetticher and Toponia Miller comes out this week. Cover Photo: Alex Farnum\" width=\"600\" height=\"666\" class=\"size-full wp-image-70450\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">This fantastically detailed cookbook from celebrated Fatted Calf chefs Taylor Boetticher and Toponia Miller comes out this week. Cover Photo: Alex Farnum\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>DIY charcuterie is, admittedly, not something every home cook is dying to tackle. On top of the fact that there is equipment to buy and meat to source, there is something magical about well-made sausages, terrines, and confits that makes them seem out of reach for the average kitchen weekend warrior. With the arrival of their new cookbook, \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/In-The-Charcuterie-Sausage-Confits/dp/1607743434\">\u003cem>In the Charcuterie\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, Taylor Boetticher and Toponia Miller, the acclaimed husband-and-wife duo from the \u003ca href=\"http://www.fattedcalf.com/\">Fatted Calf Charcuterie\u003c/a>, aim to change that perception.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_70465\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/boetticher-and-miller.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/boetticher-and-miller.jpg\" alt=\"Taylor Boetticher and Toponia Miller. Photo: Jessica Goodson\" width=\"1000\" height=\"647\" class=\"size-full wp-image-70465\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Taylor Boetticher and Toponia Miller. Photo: Jessica Goodson\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Boetticher and Miller’s book is at once a glossy showpiece, a culinary reference, and a hands-on cookbook. Like most cookbooks coming out of \u003ca href=\"http://crownpublishing.com/imprint/ten-speed-press/\">Ten Speed Press\u003c/a>, it is beautifully designed and photographed; in addition, it is hard to flip through a few pages without learning something. “We wanted it to be, you know, a good reference point for people’s culinary adventures and for it to be...a way of thinking about food and how certain flavors work together,” said Boetticher. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Boetticher and Miller started the Fatted Calf back in 2003. At first, their charcuterie operation was small-scale and focused only on selling at the \u003ca href=\"http://ecologycenter.org/fm/\">Saturday Berkeley Farmers' Market\u003c/a>. Each worked part-time jobs—Boetticher at \u003ca href=\"http://www.lanesplitterpizza.com/\">Lanesplitter Pizza\u003c/a> in West Berkeley and Miller at \u003ca href=\"http://www.stonehouseoliveoil.com/\">Stonehouse Olive Oil\u003c/a> in the Ferry Plaza—to support their fledgling business. Once they were admitted into the \u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org/markets\">Ferry Plaza Farmers’ Market\u003c/a>, their business really picked up and they decided it was time to open a brick-and-mortar shop.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The pair knew they wanted to stay within a public market context. The Ferry Building was all booked up, but there was an opening at the newly emerging \u003ca href=\"http://oxbowpublicmarket.com/\">Oxbow Public Market\u003c/a> in Napa. It was a “huge life change” but in the end, Boetticher said, it was the right move. The Fatted Calf store opened up at the end of January 2008, just in time for the stock market to tumble. “In hindsight, it made me stronger, but at the time it was absolutely terrifying,” he said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_70454\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/salad-with-gizzards1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/salad-with-gizzards1.jpg\" alt=\"A chicory salad featuring the Fatted Calf’s duck gizzard confit was served at the book’s launch event in Napa. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-70454\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A chicory salad featuring the Fatted Calf’s duck gizzard confit was served at the book’s launch event in Napa. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Despite the hard opening, Boetticher and Miller’s store has proven to be wildly successful. Right around the time that they were opening up their Hayes Valley store, the pair started talking to Ten Speed about putting together a cookbook. “At this point we had developed enough recipes, we worked with enough good vendors, and we also had enough really good staff working with us that we would be able to step away for a day or so a week,” Boetticher said. “It was something that Toponia and I had wanted to do for a long time. We didn’t know what it was going to be [yet], but after making charcuterie for this amount of time, it seemed to make sense.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Luckily, they had found a good team over at Ten Speed that was willing to let Boetticher and Miller shape an untraditional meat cookbook. Despite the fact that there are close to 40 pages detailing the precise method for breaking down cows, pigs, goats, lambs, rabbits, ducks, and chickens, \u003cem>In the Charcuterie\u003c/em> is not a particularly masculine book. As Boetticher explained, “We didn’t want it to be a dude food, ‘Let's throw a ton of animals on the fire’ kind of thing. We wanted it to have a little bit more of a refined sensibility.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_70451\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/fig-stuffed-quail1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/fig-stuffed-quail1.jpg\" alt=\"Boetticher and Miller’s recipe for fig and sausage stuffed quail, which is a hit in their stores, is included in the cookbook. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-70451\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Boetticher and Miller’s recipe for fig and sausage stuffed quail, which is a hit in their stores, is included in the cookbook. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The book, like the philosophy of the shop itself, strays away from the more modernist trends in cooking. \u003ca href=\"http://www.sousvidesupreme.com/\">Immersion circulators\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://www.vitamix.com/\">Vitamixes\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.pacojet.com/en/\">PacoJets\u003c/a> are not required. Instead, the recipes blend classic French technique with updated flavors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This emphasis on traditional methods helps to keep the book accessible. Yes, some recipes, like the headcheese or blood sausage, require a great deal of work and many days of commitment. However, many of the others (like the recipes featured below) require little more than a knife, some string, and patience. Natural kitchen skills are not necessarily required. To the Fatted Calf duo, making charcuterie is “more about preparation and planning than it is about raw talent or being a natural genius at something. It’s a lot more important than having a natural palate or having a good touch with a boning knife.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In addition, the two clearly recognize that great charcuterie takes practice. The recipes are written in great detail, with encouragement and experimentation in mind. Boetticher noted, “One of the things we try to hammer home a lot is that these things take practice, and not to get discouraged if your first efforts don’t go the way you intended them to. But also that if you pay attention and you take the time you need and you don’t take shortcuts, then your food will be phenomenal.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But what of those complex terrines and fermented sausages, you ask? How can an ordinary home cook tackle projects that large? Boetticher recommends a charcuterie party.\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp> “Because [charcuterie] is pretty labor intensive, it’s [a good thing] to do with friends or with family, whether it’s making a two pound batch of sausage or cutting up a whole hog for the freezer. It really fosters a sense of community.”\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003ch3>Events:\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>Saturday September 21, 3pm (Free)\u003cbr>\nBook signing at \u003ca href=\"http://www.omnivorebooks.com/events.html\">Omnivore Books\u003c/a>, 3885a Cesar Chavez St., San Francisco, CA 94131\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sunday September 22, 11am ($50 with copy of book, $35 without book)\u003cbr>\nTasting and book signing at \u003ca href=\"http://www.robertsinskey.com/fetes/book-signing-with-fatted-calf/\">Robert Sinskey Vineyards\u003c/a>, 6320 Silverado Trail, Napa, CA 94558\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Information:\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.fattedcalf.com/\">Fatted Calf Charcuterie\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Napa Address:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://goo.gl/AM3dKN\">Map\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n644 C First Street\u003cbr>\nNapa, CA 94559\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Phone:\u003c/strong> (707) 256-3684\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>San Francisco Address:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://goo.gl/77UK8v\">Map\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n320 Fell Street\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Phone:\u003c/strong> (415) 400-5614\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Facebook:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/FattedCalf\">Fatted Calf Charcuterie\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Twitter:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/FattedCalf\">@FattedCalf\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_70453\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 600px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/Pork-Shoulder-Pot-Roast-Stuffed-with-Garlic.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/Pork-Shoulder-Pot-Roast-Stuffed-with-Garlic.jpg\" alt=\"Pork Shoulder Pot Roast with Garlic. Photo: Alex Farnum\" width=\"600\" height=\"669\" class=\"size-full wp-image-70453\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pork Shoulder Pot Roast with Garlic. Photo: Alex Farnum\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: Pork Shoulder Pot Roast Stuffed with Garlic, Greens, and Walnuts\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Chock-full of greens, this simple pork shoulder pot roast, made with Boston butt, makes a nourishing and comforting supper. Abundant, leafy Swiss chard tends to be available year-round and is the standard for this stuffing, but it is equally good made with spinach, mustard, kale, or other seasonal greens.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Serves 8 to 10\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>1 whole boneless, skinless pork Boston butt, about 8 pounds (3.6 kg)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\nFine sea salt and freshly ground pepper\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3 bunches Swiss chard or other leafy greens, stemmed\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>10 cloves garlic, sliced paper-thin\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3/4 cup (85 g) chopped toasted walnuts\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 1/2 cups (360 ml) pork, chicken, or duck broth\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 1/2 cups (360 ml) cups dry red wine\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003col>\n\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>One day in advance of cooking, season and ready the roast for stuffing. First, make the pocket for the stuffing by making a horizontal cut through the middle of the roast, following the seam where the bone was removed. Leave one of the four edges completely intact. Open the roast like a book. Season liberally on both sides with salt and pepper. Close the book, wrap tightly with plastic wrap, and refrigerate overnight.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Remove the roast from the refrigerator and allow it to temper for 2 hours. Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C).\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Bring a large pot of salted water to a rolling boil. Add the chard leaves and blanch for about 2 minutes. Drain and let cool, then squeeze out any excess water. Chop the chard coarsely.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Open the pork shoulder like a book, with the intact edge on your left. Arrange the chard in the center of the roast in a neat layer, leaving a 1-inch (2.5 cm) border uncovered surrounding it. Distribute the garlic evenly over the chard, followed by the walnuts. Fold the top part of the roast over the stuffing and tie tightly with butcher’s twine in three places, spacing the loops evenly and reinforcing the book shape.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Outfit a large braiser with a rack. Place the pork shoulder, fatty side facing up, on the rack. (If you don’t have a rack that fits your pot, halve a few leeks lengthwise, place them on the bottom of the pot, and put the roast on the leeks; they will support the roast nicely during cooking.)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Transfer the pot to the oven and roast for about 45 minutes. Remove the pot from the oven and carefully pour off the rendered fat. Reserve these pan drippings for another use. Add the broth and wine to the pot and return it to the oven. Turn down the oven temperature to 300°F (150°C) and continue to cook, basting the roast every 30 minutes, for about 21/2 hours. The roast is ready when it is a rich golden brown, fork-tender, and a bit wobbly.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Transfer the roast to a cutting board and let it rest for 20 minutes. Snip the twine and cut the roast into thick slices. Bathe each serving with a spoonful of the cooking juices.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_70452\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 600px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/Lamb-Rib-Chops-with-Ras-el-Hanout.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/Lamb-Rib-Chops-with-Ras-el-Hanout.jpg\" alt=\"Lamb Rib Chops with Ras el Hanout. Photo: Alex Farnum\" width=\"600\" height=\"669\" class=\"size-full wp-image-70452\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Lamb Rib Chops with Ras el Hanout. Photo: Alex Farnum\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: Lamb Rib Chops with Ras el Hanout\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Ras el hanout is a classic North African spice blend. Loosely translated it means “head of the shop,” symbolizing the best the spice merchant has to offer. Traditionally, the blend contains a panorama of different spices, usually about twenty but sometimes many more, and each merchant has his or her own recipe. Although we generally advocate toasting and grinding your own spices, we love the perfectly balanced blend available from our neighbors at Whole Spice in Napa. In their version, allspice, bay leaf, black pepper, white pepper, cardamom, cinnamon, chile, clove, cumin, ginger, mace, nutmeg, saffron, rosebuds, and more are carefully combined and ground to produce a truly aromatic mix perfect for seasoning lamb.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Serves 4\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>8 lamb rib chops\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Fine sea salt\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 cloves garlic, crushed\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 dried bay leaves\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tablespoon thinly sliced orange rind\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tablespoon \u003cem>ras el hanout\u003c/em>\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003col>\n\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>Season the lamb chops on both sides with salt.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>In a large, shallow bowl, combine the garlic, bay, orange rind, and olive oil and mix well. Add the lamb chops to the bowl and turn as needed to coat evenly. Sprinkle the \u003cem>ras el hanout\u003c/em> over the lamb chops and again turn as needed to coat evenly.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>To grill the chops, prepare a medium-hot fire for direct-heat grilling in a charcoal grill. Place the chops on the grill grate directly over the coals and grill, turning them once, for about 2 minutes on each side for rare or about 3 minutes on each side for medium-rare to medium. Serve at once.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Alternatively, to cook on the stove top, heat a large cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat until hot. Add the chops and cook, turning often, for about 5 to 7 minutes total. Serve at once.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Recipes reprinted with permission from In the Charcuterie by Taylor Boetticher and Toponia Miller, copyright (c) 2013. Published by Ten Speed Press, a division of Random House, Inc.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Comte Shows There's More Than Gruyere In The Alps",
"title": "Comte Shows There's More Than Gruyere In The Alps",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_70186\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 624px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/comte-salad.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/comte-salad.jpg\" alt=\"Tri-Color Comte, Cherry And Hazelnut Salad. Photo: Kirstin Jackson for NPR\" width=\"624\" height=\"350\" class=\"size-full wp-image-70186\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tri-Color Comte, Cherry And Hazelnut Salad. Photo: Kirstin Jackson for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Kirstin Jackson. \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2013/09/11/220803338/comte-shows-there-s-more-than-gruyere-in-the-alps\">Kitchen Window at NPR Food\u003c/a> (9/11/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Get recipes for \u003ca href=\"#salad\">Tri-Color Comte, Cherry And Hazelnut Salad\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#gratin\">Celery Root And Potato Comte Gratin\u003c/a> And \u003ca href=\"#sandwich\">Strawberry Jam And Walnut Herbed Grilled Comte Sandwich\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Known for its fondue-ready texture and nutty taste, Swiss Gruyere has long been the cheese of choice for cooks who want something as smooth melting as mozzarella but with more complexity. But in the mountains just across the French border, there's another Alpine-style cheese that just might one-up this standard.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With flavors of fresh butter, citrus, hazelnuts, caramelized onions or chocolate, Comte is a cheese with more range than Meryl Streep and a texture just as seamless. It is a smooth, firm, butter-colored cheese that darkens at the rind. Most Comte found in the United States is 8 to 12 months old, but occasionally, an up to 2-year-old, more powerful Comte can be found at select cheesemongers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some say Comte's flavor resembles Gruyere's. It does a little, which is no surprise given its history.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Gruyere formerly was used as a catchall term to describe Rhone-Alpine-style cheese in the western French and eastern Swiss mountains until 2001. Family members included Comte, Beaufort, Abondance, French Gruyere and Swiss Gruyere. Made in the somewhat similar fashion typical of these mountains, the wheels are large (at least 15, and up to 90 pounds), cooked and pressed cow's raw milk cheeses.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 2001, however, Switzerland received AOC (Appellation d'Origine Controlee/Controlled Appellation of Origin) status for its Gruyere. This meant unless a cheese was made via specified methods in AOC Swiss provinces, it could no longer go by the name (except for some made in a tiny French region that never makes it across the pond).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With very effective Swiss marketing, Gruyere quickly earned more kitchen space than its former cheese relatives. Comte-Gruyere, an AOC cheese since 1958, became Comte. Lesser known, but with just as storied of a history and its own marketing team making strides, Comte has been garnering attention here too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A cheese first made more than 1,000 years ago to tide families over during the harsh Jura winters when milk was less abundant and cows were cooped up in barns, Comte is an 80-pound cooperative cheese. Because dairy farmers had small herds and making cheese is so much work, communities pooled their milk and hired fromagers (cheesemakers). Comte is still made this way today, and most fromagers still live over the room where they turn milk into wheels for the tightknit communities.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After the cows are milked in the morning, farmers bring their milk to the fromager. The fromager gently heats the milk in a copper vat, adds rennet and cultures they made that morning, waits for the curd to reach the consistency of a firm custard, then cuts it into rice-sized pieces and cooks them on low heat. Next the curds are separated from whey and pressed in wheel molds. After about 7 hours, the still-elastic and white Comtes are taken to a cellar and rubbed down with salt and a brine to form the rinds. Three or so weeks\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>later, the cheese babes are taken to an affineur (a professional who ages and nurtures cheese) to ripen. All of this is dictated by AOC rules.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like all AOC cheeses, Comte is highly regulated. It must be made in the Franche-Comte Jura mountains according to rules dictating all levels of its production. Such rules state: how much pasture a cow (Montbeliard only, please) requires — 1 hectare; the type of board cheese must be aged on — Jura spruce; the way udders must be cleaned and how beneficial microflora should be encouraged; and, the maximum number of wheels a cheesemaker can make per day, or month.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The rules concerning the cheese's production are safeguarded and determined by boards of Comte dairy farmers, cheesemakers, affineurs and cheesemongers. They exist to protect the cheese's quality, tradition and livelihood of those connected to it, yet are open to reconsideration if research suggests a way to improve Comte without varying its characteristic deliciousness. Flavor variations due to terroir and microflora in different regions of the Jura are encouraged, too, as long as they stay true to form.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After its 4 or 6 months in affinage caves, Comte takes on its characteristic flavors and texture. Sweet, lactic flavors are its base, but depending on which farms the milk is from, how long, or where it's aged, it will taste as varied as cafe au lait, mushrooms, brown butter, chocolate or pineapple.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Because Comte is so giving and its flavors so many, it has super kitchen potential. It's good melted, grated, shaved, baked or on a cheese plate. If buying from a supermarket, look for one that was wrapped recently. If procuring from a cheese shop, taste. Cross your fingers that they have more than one type of Comte for you and your taste bud's perusal.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"salad\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Tri-Color Comte, Cherry And Hazelnut Salad\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>With an already visually appealing blend of radicchio, Belgian endive and parsley, this salad offers even more color with dark cherries and off-white or yellow Comte. The lightly bitter greens complement the sweet, rich flavors of the cheese and hazelnuts, and the shallots, lemon juice and parsley keep the dish lively. If fresh cherries are not in season, peaches, persimmons, apples or dried cherries will also work. Taste and buy your Comte from a high-end cheese shop if possible for this dish. Its complex flavors have a great chance to shine in this salad.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 to 6 servings \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Salad\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5 Belgian endives\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 medium-sized radicchio (about 7 ounces) untrimmed\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3/4 cup parsley leaves, lightly packed\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 ounces toasted hazelnuts, half roughly chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>24 pitted cherries, half cut in half\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 ounces shaved Comte\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Salt and pepper to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Dressing\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons Dijion mustard\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons minced shallot\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon lemon juice, freshly squeezed\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 teaspoon salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wash the endive and radicchio. Cut off the bottom of the endive and peel away the leaves, slicing more from the bottom as you get closer to the center to loosen the leaves. Cut off the bottom of the radicchio. Set the base on the cutting board and slice in half from top to bottom. Slice once more in the opposite direction. Being careful not to loose too much of the leaves, remove the core and cut each of the radicchio quarters into three pieces. Add this and the parsley to a large bowl.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Put the mustard, shallot, lemon juice, olive oil and salt in a small bowl and whisk or stir with a fork until the mixture emulsifies.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Add the hazelnuts, cherries, dressing and half the Comte to the large bowl. Mix with your hands. Salt and pepper to taste. Divide onto plates and top with the remaining Comte shavings.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"gratin\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Celery Root And Potato Comte Gratin\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Comte adds a sweet touch to this rich dish, and the addition of celery root provides a little diversion from the classic potato gratin. When choosing celery root, look for a young one to avoid tough fiber in the dish, and don't be afraid to peel away to the softer inner core if the layer under the peel feels dry or rough. Keep the sides with this one light — it's rich and heavy, just as a gratin should be.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_70187\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/comte-gratin.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/comte-gratin.jpg\" alt=\"Celery Root And Potato Comte Gratin. Photo: Kirstin Jackson for NPR\" width=\"1120\" height=\"839\" class=\"size-full wp-image-70187\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Celery Root And Potato Comte Gratin. Photo: Kirstin Jackson for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 6 to 8 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 sage leaves\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>10 ounces celery root (about 15-18 ounces untrimmed), trimmed, peeled and medium-diced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cups heavy cream\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cloves garlic, chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/2 teaspoons salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pinch nutmeg\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 large russet potatoes (about 1 1/2 pounds), peeled\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6 ounces Comte, grated (about 1 1/2 cups, grated)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon butter, room temperature\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bring a small pot filled with enough water to cover the celery root to a boil. Add the sage, enough salt so the water tastes like the sea and the celery root. Reduce heat to a simmer and cook for 12 to 20 minutes - until the celery root pieces have lost their fibrous bite. Drain.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Butter an 8-by-8-inch baking dish. Preheat the oven to 325 degrees.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Put the cream, garlic, salt and nutmeg in a medium-sized saucepan and bring to a boil. Stir, remove the pot from heat and keep warm.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Slice the potatoes 1/8-inch thick, put in a bowl and cover with water to keep from browning.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Working in layers, put 1/4 of the cooked, warmed cream mixture on the bottom of the buttered pan, stirring it as you layer to make sure the garlic is evenly distributed through the dish. Evenly layer both a third of the potatoes and celery root over the cream. Top with cheese. Repeat until finished with the root vegetables and cheese, then top off the dish with the remaining cooked cream. Cover with foil and cook for 45 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Remove the foil and cook for 30 or 45 minutes longer, until the top is brown and the potatoes are cooked through. Let sit for 10 minutes before serving.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"sandwich\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Strawberry Jam And Walnut Herbed Grilled Comte Sandwich\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>I've always liked the idea of a slightly sweet grilled-cheese sandwich. This one is kept savory with a light salting of the bread and rosemary, and the optional red pepper flakes offer a little kick.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_70188\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/comte-grilled.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/comte-grilled.jpg\" alt=\"Strawberry Jam And Walnut Herbed Grilled Comte Sandwich. Photo: Kirstin Jackson for NPR\" width=\"1120\" height=\"839\" class=\"size-full wp-image-70188\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Strawberry Jam And Walnut Herbed Grilled Comte Sandwich. Photo: Kirstin Jackson for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon fresh rosemary, finely chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon fresh thyme, finely chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>8 slices Italian batard or white country-style loaf\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6-7 tablespoons salted butter, room temperature\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 tablespoons strawberry jam\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 tablespoons toasted walnuts, chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>7 ounces Comte, grated\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/8 teaspoon red pepper flakes (optional)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place the chopped rosemary and thyme together in a small bowl and stir until combined.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pair the bread for sandwiches. Lightly butter one side of each of the 8 pieces of bread. Next, butter the other side of 4 of those same pieces. Lightly salt the bread that has both sides buttered.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Divide and spread the strawberry jam among the unbuttered portions of the original 8 slices. Sprinkle with a quarter of the mixed herbs and the walnuts. Top with grated Comte and a quarter of the red pepper flakes. Use the remaining buttered slices to cover the sandwich base.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Heat 1 teaspoon of butter per sandwich in a heavy bottomed cast iron skillet or pan over medium heat. Place the sandwiches in the pan and press down firmly with a spatula. Sprinkle with an additional pinch of salt to taste and reduce heat to low. Flip when the first side is golden brown, about 5 to 7 minutes. Repeat with the second side on medium-low heat. The sandwiches are ready when golden brown and the cheese is melted. Serve immediately.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>About The Author\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The author of the book \"\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Its-Not-You-Brie-Unwrapping/dp/039953766X/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1379167572&sr=8-1&keywords=it%27s+not+you+it%27s+brie\">It's Not You, It's Brie: Unwrapping America's Unique Culture of Cheese\u003c/a>,\" Kirstin Jackson is a writer, educator, professional cook and consultant, who focuses almost entirely on cheese, wine and beer. When not traveling the world in search of the perfect wheel or teaching classes around the country, her fromage musings can be found on her blog \u003ca href=\"http://itsnotyouitsbrie.com/\">It's Not You It's Brie\u003c/a>, on \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/ItsBrieBlog\">Twitter\u003c/a> and her \u003ca href=\"http://itsnotyouitsbrie.us7.list-manage.com/subscribe?u=0551b826bf7a620c0e7611934&id=a7c5b0f053\">newsletter\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_70186\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 624px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/comte-salad.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/comte-salad.jpg\" alt=\"Tri-Color Comte, Cherry And Hazelnut Salad. Photo: Kirstin Jackson for NPR\" width=\"624\" height=\"350\" class=\"size-full wp-image-70186\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tri-Color Comte, Cherry And Hazelnut Salad. Photo: Kirstin Jackson for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Kirstin Jackson. \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2013/09/11/220803338/comte-shows-there-s-more-than-gruyere-in-the-alps\">Kitchen Window at NPR Food\u003c/a> (9/11/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Get recipes for \u003ca href=\"#salad\">Tri-Color Comte, Cherry And Hazelnut Salad\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#gratin\">Celery Root And Potato Comte Gratin\u003c/a> And \u003ca href=\"#sandwich\">Strawberry Jam And Walnut Herbed Grilled Comte Sandwich\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Known for its fondue-ready texture and nutty taste, Swiss Gruyere has long been the cheese of choice for cooks who want something as smooth melting as mozzarella but with more complexity. But in the mountains just across the French border, there's another Alpine-style cheese that just might one-up this standard.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With flavors of fresh butter, citrus, hazelnuts, caramelized onions or chocolate, Comte is a cheese with more range than Meryl Streep and a texture just as seamless. It is a smooth, firm, butter-colored cheese that darkens at the rind. Most Comte found in the United States is 8 to 12 months old, but occasionally, an up to 2-year-old, more powerful Comte can be found at select cheesemongers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some say Comte's flavor resembles Gruyere's. It does a little, which is no surprise given its history.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Gruyere formerly was used as a catchall term to describe Rhone-Alpine-style cheese in the western French and eastern Swiss mountains until 2001. Family members included Comte, Beaufort, Abondance, French Gruyere and Swiss Gruyere. Made in the somewhat similar fashion typical of these mountains, the wheels are large (at least 15, and up to 90 pounds), cooked and pressed cow's raw milk cheeses.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 2001, however, Switzerland received AOC (Appellation d'Origine Controlee/Controlled Appellation of Origin) status for its Gruyere. This meant unless a cheese was made via specified methods in AOC Swiss provinces, it could no longer go by the name (except for some made in a tiny French region that never makes it across the pond).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With very effective Swiss marketing, Gruyere quickly earned more kitchen space than its former cheese relatives. Comte-Gruyere, an AOC cheese since 1958, became Comte. Lesser known, but with just as storied of a history and its own marketing team making strides, Comte has been garnering attention here too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A cheese first made more than 1,000 years ago to tide families over during the harsh Jura winters when milk was less abundant and cows were cooped up in barns, Comte is an 80-pound cooperative cheese. Because dairy farmers had small herds and making cheese is so much work, communities pooled their milk and hired fromagers (cheesemakers). Comte is still made this way today, and most fromagers still live over the room where they turn milk into wheels for the tightknit communities.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After the cows are milked in the morning, farmers bring their milk to the fromager. The fromager gently heats the milk in a copper vat, adds rennet and cultures they made that morning, waits for the curd to reach the consistency of a firm custard, then cuts it into rice-sized pieces and cooks them on low heat. Next the curds are separated from whey and pressed in wheel molds. After about 7 hours, the still-elastic and white Comtes are taken to a cellar and rubbed down with salt and a brine to form the rinds. Three or so weeks\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>later, the cheese babes are taken to an affineur (a professional who ages and nurtures cheese) to ripen. All of this is dictated by AOC rules.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like all AOC cheeses, Comte is highly regulated. It must be made in the Franche-Comte Jura mountains according to rules dictating all levels of its production. Such rules state: how much pasture a cow (Montbeliard only, please) requires — 1 hectare; the type of board cheese must be aged on — Jura spruce; the way udders must be cleaned and how beneficial microflora should be encouraged; and, the maximum number of wheels a cheesemaker can make per day, or month.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The rules concerning the cheese's production are safeguarded and determined by boards of Comte dairy farmers, cheesemakers, affineurs and cheesemongers. They exist to protect the cheese's quality, tradition and livelihood of those connected to it, yet are open to reconsideration if research suggests a way to improve Comte without varying its characteristic deliciousness. Flavor variations due to terroir and microflora in different regions of the Jura are encouraged, too, as long as they stay true to form.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After its 4 or 6 months in affinage caves, Comte takes on its characteristic flavors and texture. Sweet, lactic flavors are its base, but depending on which farms the milk is from, how long, or where it's aged, it will taste as varied as cafe au lait, mushrooms, brown butter, chocolate or pineapple.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Because Comte is so giving and its flavors so many, it has super kitchen potential. It's good melted, grated, shaved, baked or on a cheese plate. If buying from a supermarket, look for one that was wrapped recently. If procuring from a cheese shop, taste. Cross your fingers that they have more than one type of Comte for you and your taste bud's perusal.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"salad\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Tri-Color Comte, Cherry And Hazelnut Salad\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>With an already visually appealing blend of radicchio, Belgian endive and parsley, this salad offers even more color with dark cherries and off-white or yellow Comte. The lightly bitter greens complement the sweet, rich flavors of the cheese and hazelnuts, and the shallots, lemon juice and parsley keep the dish lively. If fresh cherries are not in season, peaches, persimmons, apples or dried cherries will also work. Taste and buy your Comte from a high-end cheese shop if possible for this dish. Its complex flavors have a great chance to shine in this salad.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 to 6 servings \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Salad\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5 Belgian endives\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 medium-sized radicchio (about 7 ounces) untrimmed\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3/4 cup parsley leaves, lightly packed\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 ounces toasted hazelnuts, half roughly chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>24 pitted cherries, half cut in half\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 ounces shaved Comte\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Salt and pepper to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Dressing\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons Dijion mustard\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons minced shallot\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon lemon juice, freshly squeezed\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 teaspoon salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wash the endive and radicchio. Cut off the bottom of the endive and peel away the leaves, slicing more from the bottom as you get closer to the center to loosen the leaves. Cut off the bottom of the radicchio. Set the base on the cutting board and slice in half from top to bottom. Slice once more in the opposite direction. Being careful not to loose too much of the leaves, remove the core and cut each of the radicchio quarters into three pieces. Add this and the parsley to a large bowl.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Put the mustard, shallot, lemon juice, olive oil and salt in a small bowl and whisk or stir with a fork until the mixture emulsifies.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Add the hazelnuts, cherries, dressing and half the Comte to the large bowl. Mix with your hands. Salt and pepper to taste. Divide onto plates and top with the remaining Comte shavings.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"gratin\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Celery Root And Potato Comte Gratin\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Comte adds a sweet touch to this rich dish, and the addition of celery root provides a little diversion from the classic potato gratin. When choosing celery root, look for a young one to avoid tough fiber in the dish, and don't be afraid to peel away to the softer inner core if the layer under the peel feels dry or rough. Keep the sides with this one light — it's rich and heavy, just as a gratin should be.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_70187\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/comte-gratin.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/comte-gratin.jpg\" alt=\"Celery Root And Potato Comte Gratin. Photo: Kirstin Jackson for NPR\" width=\"1120\" height=\"839\" class=\"size-full wp-image-70187\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Celery Root And Potato Comte Gratin. Photo: Kirstin Jackson for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 6 to 8 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 sage leaves\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>10 ounces celery root (about 15-18 ounces untrimmed), trimmed, peeled and medium-diced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cups heavy cream\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cloves garlic, chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/2 teaspoons salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pinch nutmeg\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 large russet potatoes (about 1 1/2 pounds), peeled\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6 ounces Comte, grated (about 1 1/2 cups, grated)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon butter, room temperature\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bring a small pot filled with enough water to cover the celery root to a boil. Add the sage, enough salt so the water tastes like the sea and the celery root. Reduce heat to a simmer and cook for 12 to 20 minutes - until the celery root pieces have lost their fibrous bite. Drain.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Butter an 8-by-8-inch baking dish. Preheat the oven to 325 degrees.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Put the cream, garlic, salt and nutmeg in a medium-sized saucepan and bring to a boil. Stir, remove the pot from heat and keep warm.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Slice the potatoes 1/8-inch thick, put in a bowl and cover with water to keep from browning.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Working in layers, put 1/4 of the cooked, warmed cream mixture on the bottom of the buttered pan, stirring it as you layer to make sure the garlic is evenly distributed through the dish. Evenly layer both a third of the potatoes and celery root over the cream. Top with cheese. Repeat until finished with the root vegetables and cheese, then top off the dish with the remaining cooked cream. Cover with foil and cook for 45 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Remove the foil and cook for 30 or 45 minutes longer, until the top is brown and the potatoes are cooked through. Let sit for 10 minutes before serving.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"sandwich\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Strawberry Jam And Walnut Herbed Grilled Comte Sandwich\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>I've always liked the idea of a slightly sweet grilled-cheese sandwich. This one is kept savory with a light salting of the bread and rosemary, and the optional red pepper flakes offer a little kick.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_70188\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/comte-grilled.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/comte-grilled.jpg\" alt=\"Strawberry Jam And Walnut Herbed Grilled Comte Sandwich. Photo: Kirstin Jackson for NPR\" width=\"1120\" height=\"839\" class=\"size-full wp-image-70188\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Strawberry Jam And Walnut Herbed Grilled Comte Sandwich. Photo: Kirstin Jackson for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon fresh rosemary, finely chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon fresh thyme, finely chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>8 slices Italian batard or white country-style loaf\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6-7 tablespoons salted butter, room temperature\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 tablespoons strawberry jam\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 tablespoons toasted walnuts, chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>7 ounces Comte, grated\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/8 teaspoon red pepper flakes (optional)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place the chopped rosemary and thyme together in a small bowl and stir until combined.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pair the bread for sandwiches. Lightly butter one side of each of the 8 pieces of bread. Next, butter the other side of 4 of those same pieces. Lightly salt the bread that has both sides buttered.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Divide and spread the strawberry jam among the unbuttered portions of the original 8 slices. Sprinkle with a quarter of the mixed herbs and the walnuts. Top with grated Comte and a quarter of the red pepper flakes. Use the remaining buttered slices to cover the sandwich base.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Heat 1 teaspoon of butter per sandwich in a heavy bottomed cast iron skillet or pan over medium heat. Place the sandwiches in the pan and press down firmly with a spatula. Sprinkle with an additional pinch of salt to taste and reduce heat to low. Flip when the first side is golden brown, about 5 to 7 minutes. Repeat with the second side on medium-low heat. The sandwiches are ready when golden brown and the cheese is melted. Serve immediately.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>About The Author\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The author of the book \"\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Its-Not-You-Brie-Unwrapping/dp/039953766X/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1379167572&sr=8-1&keywords=it%27s+not+you+it%27s+brie\">It's Not You, It's Brie: Unwrapping America's Unique Culture of Cheese\u003c/a>,\" Kirstin Jackson is a writer, educator, professional cook and consultant, who focuses almost entirely on cheese, wine and beer. When not traveling the world in search of the perfect wheel or teaching classes around the country, her fromage musings can be found on her blog \u003ca href=\"http://itsnotyouitsbrie.com/\">It's Not You It's Brie\u003c/a>, on \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/ItsBrieBlog\">Twitter\u003c/a> and her \u003ca href=\"http://itsnotyouitsbrie.us7.list-manage.com/subscribe?u=0551b826bf7a620c0e7611934&id=a7c5b0f053\">newsletter\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_70050\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 350px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/melonade.png\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/melonade.png\" alt=\"Melonade. Photo: Michael Procopio\" width=\"350\" class=\"size-full wp-image-70050\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Melonade. Photo: Michael Procopio\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>I am a highly selective reader. And listener. By this, I don’t mean to imply that I have discerning taste in literature and music.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Instead, I mean that my brain often prefers to process visual and aural information in ways it thinks I may find either more palatable or more entertaining than the original.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I once wondered aloud to a date about a billboard exhorting women to get Mmmmograms. He then proceeded to wonder aloud as to what in God’s name I was talking about. I pointed to the sign. “It says mammograms. Maaaa-moh-grams” he mouthed slowly and piteously. I looked again at the sign. He was right, of course and I knew that my lexical mirage was due in part to the fact that I was hungry. But still I much preferred my version of the message, which implied that women might visit their doctor for a necessary prescription of chocolate or caviar, rather than to have their breasts smashed and biopsied.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I’m fairly certain that was our last date, but I couldn’t tell you the fellow’s name if my life depended on it because my brain has apparently found that particular bit of information too unpleasant to process.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In terms of mishearing things, I can tell you I’m extremely grateful that, as a child, I was never singled out to perform “The Star Spangled Banner” in front of a large stadium crowd because I am almost certain most Americans would be distressed to hear how their flag survived a cannonade of “tampons bursting in air” above it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I’ve since learned the proper lyrics, but the original imagery will never, ever go away. And that’s fine by me, because I happen to think my version much more dramatic than the original. And so much more colorful.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At work the other evening, one of our sous chefs engaged in a bit of verbal dyslexia as he was telling the waitstaff about dessert specials– announcing that we had a trio of chilled lemons available, should any of our guests feel like having a bit of fruit. By the time he corrected himself, the mouths of everyone in the room had already puckered at the thought of eating slices of cold Eurekas and Meyers. He’d meant to say melons: Sharlyn, Crenshaw, and one with a Spanish name I’d never come across before– Piel de Sapo. My not-at-all-fluent-in-Spanish brain translated it into something I could understand.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_70049\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 350px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/melon.png\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/melon.png\" alt=\"Piel de Sapo exterior. Photo: Michael Procopio\" width=\"350\" class=\"size-full wp-image-70049\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Piel de Sapo exterior. Photo: Michael Procopio\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“Piel de \u003cem>Sappho\u003c/em>?” I asked, wanting to be certain I’d heard correctly.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“No. Sapo. Sah-\u003cstrong>\u003cem>poh\u003c/em>\u003c/strong>,” he pronounced. “It means toad skin.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One minute, I find out we have no cold lemons to sell to our guests and the next I’m told we’re offering them fruit suffering from \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hypovitaminosis_A\">phrynoderma\u003c/a> instead.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>How much lovelier– and more appropriate– it would have been to serve up melon named for a Lesbian poet in an upscale Greek restaurant? Instead, we had nothing but cold-blooded amphibian. Knowing that the likelihood of horticulturists developing, growing, harvesting, and delivering the melon I wanted before service was minimal, I swallowed my disappointment and swore I’d turn this personal misfortune into something positive.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Because as the old adage says, “When life gives you melons, make melonade.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Or something like that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_70051\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/piel-de-sapo-innards.png\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/piel-de-sapo-innards.png\" alt=\"Piel de Sapo innards. Photo: Michael Procopio\" width=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-70051\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Piel de Sapo innards. Photo: Michael Procopio\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>Melonade\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>There are so many melons one could possibly squeeze for juice, but I am currently loving Piel de Sapo. We sometimes eat it like candy at the end of our work shift when it’s in season. It’s flavor is sweet and subtle and vaguely cantaloupe-like. Apparently, it is also referred to as Santa Claus melon, because it can be stored for so long that it can sometimes keep until Christmas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But I still prefer to call it Piel de Sappho because melons are so ripe for female anatomical comparison– undeniably mammarial when whole, unspeakably vaginal when pried open. The only thing I have trouble reconciling is the fact that this melon has a thick skin, which doesn’t quite jibe with the legend of this famed Lesbian* poet of antiquity hurling herself off a cliff when she found her love unrequited.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But at least it does imply a sweet and tender soul, which Piel de Sappho has in spades.\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003ch3>Ingredients:\u003c/h3>\n\u003cli>2 Piel de Sapo (call it whatever you wish. I do) melons. Very ripe and heavy in the hand.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 cup sugar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 cup water\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>A handful of fresh mint, washed\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003ch3>Preparation:\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>1. Cleave your melons, scoop out the seeds with a spoon, remove the skins with a sharp knife, and save only the flesh, which you will then slice into pieces small enough to be shoved into the feed tube of your juicer (You really should have a juicer if you want to do this).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Pour the juice into a large container– you may get up to 3 pints of liquid from two melons. Cover and place in your refrigerator to chill and allow for the remaining melon solids to separate from the juice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. In the meantime, place 1 cup of water and 1 cup of sugar into a saucepan and heat over medium flame until the sugar is dissolved. Now take your clean mint, abuse it, and tear it to pieces, letting them fall as they may (somewhat carefully) into the sugar syrup. Stir and mash the mint all you like, cover and set aside to cool.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Remove the juice from the refrigerator and strain it either through a fine-meshed sieve, cheese cloth, or both.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5. To serve, pour the juice into a large glass and taste. Is it sweet enough? Possibly, but add a teaspoon or two of the subtly-minted syrup and give it a stir. If you want to keep things simpler and do not want any extra sweetness, crumple up a few fresh leaves of mint and toss them into the juice, giving it all a good, hearty stir. If you want your beverage even more straightforward, do nothing and just drink the damned juice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Or send a batch to a friend– it will make for one delightful mmmm-o-gram indeed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you add lemon juice (or lime, for that matter) you will end up with a jumble of letters which will taste of little more than acid and murky water. If you add gin, it will taste terrible. The flavor of the juice is so subtle that one should do as little as possible to it. If your melons are hard and flavorless, the best thing to do with them is hurl them from the nearest cliff. And then learn \u003ca href=\"http://www.ehow.com/video_4398411_pick-ripe-melons.html\">how to properly select a ripe melon\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>* There is no known proof that Sappho a) was homosexual or b) that she ever hurled herself off a cliff. Very little about her is known beyond the fact that she was from the island of Lesbos, and was considered one of the greatest of the ancient Greek poets– no small feat in a time when women of good families were pretty much never allowed to leave the house.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_70050\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 350px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/melonade.png\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/melonade.png\" alt=\"Melonade. Photo: Michael Procopio\" width=\"350\" class=\"size-full wp-image-70050\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Melonade. Photo: Michael Procopio\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>I am a highly selective reader. And listener. By this, I don’t mean to imply that I have discerning taste in literature and music.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Instead, I mean that my brain often prefers to process visual and aural information in ways it thinks I may find either more palatable or more entertaining than the original.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I once wondered aloud to a date about a billboard exhorting women to get Mmmmograms. He then proceeded to wonder aloud as to what in God’s name I was talking about. I pointed to the sign. “It says mammograms. Maaaa-moh-grams” he mouthed slowly and piteously. I looked again at the sign. He was right, of course and I knew that my lexical mirage was due in part to the fact that I was hungry. But still I much preferred my version of the message, which implied that women might visit their doctor for a necessary prescription of chocolate or caviar, rather than to have their breasts smashed and biopsied.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I’m fairly certain that was our last date, but I couldn’t tell you the fellow’s name if my life depended on it because my brain has apparently found that particular bit of information too unpleasant to process.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In terms of mishearing things, I can tell you I’m extremely grateful that, as a child, I was never singled out to perform “The Star Spangled Banner” in front of a large stadium crowd because I am almost certain most Americans would be distressed to hear how their flag survived a cannonade of “tampons bursting in air” above it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I’ve since learned the proper lyrics, but the original imagery will never, ever go away. And that’s fine by me, because I happen to think my version much more dramatic than the original. And so much more colorful.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At work the other evening, one of our sous chefs engaged in a bit of verbal dyslexia as he was telling the waitstaff about dessert specials– announcing that we had a trio of chilled lemons available, should any of our guests feel like having a bit of fruit. By the time he corrected himself, the mouths of everyone in the room had already puckered at the thought of eating slices of cold Eurekas and Meyers. He’d meant to say melons: Sharlyn, Crenshaw, and one with a Spanish name I’d never come across before– Piel de Sapo. My not-at-all-fluent-in-Spanish brain translated it into something I could understand.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_70049\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 350px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/melon.png\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/melon.png\" alt=\"Piel de Sapo exterior. Photo: Michael Procopio\" width=\"350\" class=\"size-full wp-image-70049\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Piel de Sapo exterior. Photo: Michael Procopio\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“Piel de \u003cem>Sappho\u003c/em>?” I asked, wanting to be certain I’d heard correctly.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“No. Sapo. Sah-\u003cstrong>\u003cem>poh\u003c/em>\u003c/strong>,” he pronounced. “It means toad skin.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One minute, I find out we have no cold lemons to sell to our guests and the next I’m told we’re offering them fruit suffering from \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hypovitaminosis_A\">phrynoderma\u003c/a> instead.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>How much lovelier– and more appropriate– it would have been to serve up melon named for a Lesbian poet in an upscale Greek restaurant? Instead, we had nothing but cold-blooded amphibian. Knowing that the likelihood of horticulturists developing, growing, harvesting, and delivering the melon I wanted before service was minimal, I swallowed my disappointment and swore I’d turn this personal misfortune into something positive.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Because as the old adage says, “When life gives you melons, make melonade.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Or something like that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_70051\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/piel-de-sapo-innards.png\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/piel-de-sapo-innards.png\" alt=\"Piel de Sapo innards. Photo: Michael Procopio\" width=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-70051\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Piel de Sapo innards. Photo: Michael Procopio\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>Melonade\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>There are so many melons one could possibly squeeze for juice, but I am currently loving Piel de Sapo. We sometimes eat it like candy at the end of our work shift when it’s in season. It’s flavor is sweet and subtle and vaguely cantaloupe-like. Apparently, it is also referred to as Santa Claus melon, because it can be stored for so long that it can sometimes keep until Christmas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But I still prefer to call it Piel de Sappho because melons are so ripe for female anatomical comparison– undeniably mammarial when whole, unspeakably vaginal when pried open. The only thing I have trouble reconciling is the fact that this melon has a thick skin, which doesn’t quite jibe with the legend of this famed Lesbian* poet of antiquity hurling herself off a cliff when she found her love unrequited.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But at least it does imply a sweet and tender soul, which Piel de Sappho has in spades.\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003ch3>Ingredients:\u003c/h3>\n\u003cli>2 Piel de Sapo (call it whatever you wish. I do) melons. Very ripe and heavy in the hand.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 cup sugar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 cup water\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>A handful of fresh mint, washed\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003ch3>Preparation:\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>1. Cleave your melons, scoop out the seeds with a spoon, remove the skins with a sharp knife, and save only the flesh, which you will then slice into pieces small enough to be shoved into the feed tube of your juicer (You really should have a juicer if you want to do this).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Pour the juice into a large container– you may get up to 3 pints of liquid from two melons. Cover and place in your refrigerator to chill and allow for the remaining melon solids to separate from the juice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. In the meantime, place 1 cup of water and 1 cup of sugar into a saucepan and heat over medium flame until the sugar is dissolved. Now take your clean mint, abuse it, and tear it to pieces, letting them fall as they may (somewhat carefully) into the sugar syrup. Stir and mash the mint all you like, cover and set aside to cool.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Remove the juice from the refrigerator and strain it either through a fine-meshed sieve, cheese cloth, or both.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5. To serve, pour the juice into a large glass and taste. Is it sweet enough? Possibly, but add a teaspoon or two of the subtly-minted syrup and give it a stir. If you want to keep things simpler and do not want any extra sweetness, crumple up a few fresh leaves of mint and toss them into the juice, giving it all a good, hearty stir. If you want your beverage even more straightforward, do nothing and just drink the damned juice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Or send a batch to a friend– it will make for one delightful mmmm-o-gram indeed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you add lemon juice (or lime, for that matter) you will end up with a jumble of letters which will taste of little more than acid and murky water. If you add gin, it will taste terrible. The flavor of the juice is so subtle that one should do as little as possible to it. If your melons are hard and flavorless, the best thing to do with them is hurl them from the nearest cliff. And then learn \u003ca href=\"http://www.ehow.com/video_4398411_pick-ripe-melons.html\">how to properly select a ripe melon\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>* There is no known proof that Sappho a) was homosexual or b) that she ever hurled herself off a cliff. Very little about her is known beyond the fact that she was from the island of Lesbos, and was considered one of the greatest of the ancient Greek poets– no small feat in a time when women of good families were pretty much never allowed to leave the house.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Rosh Hashanah Recipes, Kosher and Gluten-Free, from The Modern Menu and Nosh on This",
"title": "Rosh Hashanah Recipes, Kosher and Gluten-Free, from The Modern Menu and Nosh on This",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>L'shanah tovah! Our favorite early local apple varieties--Pink Pearls, Gravensteins--have been in the markets for only a week or two, and already it's time to dunk them in honey. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dipping apples in honey is a traditional way to celebrate \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rosh_Hashanah\">Rosh Hashanah\u003c/a>, the Jewish New Year, which begins this year at sundown on Wednesday, Sept 4, and continues through Friday, Sept 6. The practice is meant to celebrate the coming of a sweet year, full of joy and prosperity. Challah, the egg bread typically served on Friday nights, is made richer and sweeter, often with raisins added, and shaped into a towering round rather than the usual oval or rectangular braid. It, too, is dipped in honey before the meal. At lunch and dinner, foods that are sour or bitter are avoided, replaced by savory dishes with a hint of sweetness.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/modernmenudisplay600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/modernmenudisplay600.jpg\" alt=\"The Modern Menu by Kim Kushner\" width=\"400\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-69342\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For this year's holiday meals, I've found contemporary inspiration in \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/9652296325/kqedorg-20\">The Modern Menu\u003c/a> by Kim Kushner, a kosher private chef and cooking teacher. Kushner's palate comes with a cosmopolitan variety of influences, from the Mediterranean and Middle East to Asia and India, to reflect the way we eat now. After spending her childhood summers in Israel (her Moroccan-born, Israeli-raised mother was one of 10 siblings, so family meals were no small events), Ms. Kushner settled in Manhattan, trained professionally at the Institute of Culinary Education, and became a private chef and cooking teacher. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_69340\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/kim-kushner-photo-for-media.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/kim-kushner-photo-for-media.jpg\" alt=\"Kim Kushner, author of The Modern Menu. Photo: Nick Lee\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-69340\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Kim Kushner, author of The Modern Menu. Photo: Nick Lee\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Instead of the old-fashioned, mostly Eastern and Central European-influenced standbys of Jewish-American cooking, Ms. Kushner offers lighter, brighter, and indeed more modern dishes. There's brisket, of course, but sauced with olive oil, beer, ketchup, and cranberry sauce, followed by pesto-crusted lamb chops, lemongrass halibut with cilantro and peanuts, curried cauliflower with tahini and pomegranate, cumin-spiced beet salad, and gelato \"towers\" layered with halvah and sorbet. If you don't keep kosher, you'll hardly notice anything out of the ordinary in this book, except, perhaps, the pronounced lack of bacon and the limited use of cheese, butter, and cream. (Pork and shellfish are forbidden by kosher dietary laws, which also proscribe mixing dairy and meat products in the same dish or at the same meal.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The recipes are straightforward, healthy, and appealing, equally adaptable for both busy weeknights and holiday celebrations. Unfortunately, the layout and visual appeal of the book don't match up to the high quality of the recipes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rather than being divided into typical categories of appetizers, salads, entrees, and the like, the chapters are done menu by menu, with cute but unhelpful headings like \"Clever,\" \"Crisp,\" \"Vibrant,\" and \"Saucy.\" It actually took a close reading of the book to realize that each of these short chapters was actually a planned menu; good as they sound on their own, few of these big-flavor dishes seem ready to share real estate on the plate in a single meal. The \"Modern\" menu, for example, includes three dressed vegetable salads plus sesame-crusted Arctic char--what reads like a skinny-jeans ladies' lunch of three shared appetizers and one entree shorn of its deserved sides and starch. Meanwhile, \"Saucy\" veers from teriyaki-glazed sticky beef ribs and surimi-mango salad in wonton cups to a curried couscous salad and salsa-style tomatoes with cilantro and avocado. Global influences are great, but jamming too many into one meal can make for potluck confusion. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And then there are Andrew Zuckerman's photographs, shot in unadorned, often extreme close-up against a stark white background. Muddy color reproduction means page after page of dishes depicted in unappetizingly washed-out browns, dull greens and grayish yellows. Only the red dishes, featuring brilliantly colored beets or watermelon, look appealing. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/Nosh-on-This.Cover600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/Nosh-on-This.Cover600.jpg\" alt=\"Nosh on This. Gluten-Free Baking From a Jewish-American Kitchen. By Lisa Stander-Horel and Tim Horel. Photo:Tim Horel\" width=\"400\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-69341\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You could see this one coming, couldn't you? The Bay Area's wholehearted adoption of all things gluten-free meets the Jewish love of baking, and the result is \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1615190864/kqedorg-20\">Nosh on This: Gluten-Free Baking from a Jewish-American Kitchen\u003c/a>, by South Bay bloggers Lisa Stander-Horel and Tim Horel. When a gluten-free book gets a glowing blurb from \u003ca href=\"http://www.betterbaking.com/\">Marcy Goldman\u003c/a>, the Canadian baker and author of my much-used favorite, \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1770500030/kqedorg-20\">A Treasury of Jewish Holiday Baking\u003c/a>, even the non-gluten-intolerant should pay attention. These days, it's handy for all busy home bakers to have at least one decent gluten-free cookbook, since the demand and/or expectation of tasty gluten-free cupcakes (not to mention gluten-free pizza and yes, gluten-free beer) at every birthday party has risen dramatically. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_69345\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/Tim-Horel-and-Lisa-Stander-Horel.Author-Photo.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/Tim-Horel-and-Lisa-Stander-Horel.Author-Photo.jpg\" alt=\"Tim Horel and Lisa Stander-Horel. Photo courtesy of the authors.\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-69345\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tim Horel and Lisa Stander-Horel. Photo courtesy of the authors.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>This husband-and-wife team, who blog at \u003ca href=\"http://www.glutenfreecanteen.com\">Gluten-Free Canteen\u003c/a> (she bakes and writes, he shoots the photographs), rely almost exclusively on their own Nosh all-purpose gluten-free flour mix, which they recommend be made from \u003ca href=\"http://www.authenticfoods.com/\">Authentic Foods\u003c/a>' superfine-milled flours, in a proportion of two parts brown rice flour to one part each white rice flour and tapioca starch. For yeast breads, they avoid crumbling by mixing minimal amounts of xanthan gum, pectin, and guar gum with \u003ca href=\"http://www.expandexglutenfree.com/\">Expandex Modified Tapioca Starch\u003c/a> to give \"that nice bendy tear we all know and miss in many gluten-free breads.\" Otherwise, though, they keep the chemistry-set demands to a minimum: this is as close to regular, homey-kitchen baking as gluten-free gets. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>True to its name, the book includes lots of typically Jewish treats, although you don't need to have been bat mitzvah'd to appreciate rugelach, challah, macaroons or mandelbrot. In between the honey cake and hamantaschen are plenty of familiar, everyday sweets and pastries--pies, fruit tarts, layer cakes, cupcakes, brownies, lemon bars, eclairs, even doughnuts (lots and \u003cem>lots\u003c/em> of doughnuts). Those parents whose kids can't eat supermarket sweets should especially enjoy the recipes for homemade cookies inspired by Oreos, Mallomars, Stella D'oro Swiss Fudge Cookies, Fig Newtons, and more. And the tone is lively, fun, and just irreverent enough to make even infrequent bakers feel at home in the kitchen. \u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Recipe: Best Brisket\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Reproduced with permission from The Modern Menu by Kim Kushner (Gefen Publishing House, 2013).\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is the best brisket I've tasted. Almost as great as its amazing flavor is that you can make it a month in advance and freeze it. So convenient! Note that you will need a roasting pan that can be used both on a stovetop and in the oven. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_69353\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 903px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/best-brisket.png\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/best-brisket.png\" alt=\"Best Brisket. Photo: Andrew Zuckerman\" width=\"903\" height=\"557\" class=\"size-full wp-image-69353\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Best Brisket. Photo: Andrew Zuckerman\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Serves 8-10\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>3 tbsp olive oil\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 5-lb first-cut brisket\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 medium yellow onions, sliced\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 12-ounce bottle beer\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3/4 cup ketchup\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 14-oz can cranberry sauce\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 cup red wine\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Preheat the oven to 350ºF. Heat the olive oil in a large roasting pan over medium-high heat. Season the brisket generously with salt and pepper (don't be afraid to over-season). Sear the brisket in the pan until nicely browned on each side, about 4 minutes per side. Remove to a platter. Add the onions to the pan and saute until translucent, about 10 minutes. Place the brisket on the onions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. In a large bowl, whisk together the beer, ketchup, cranberry sauce, and wine. Pour the mixture over the brisket in the pan and bring to a boil.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Cover the pan with foil and bake in the oven for 1 1/2 hours. Carefully turn the brisket over using tongs. Continue baking, covered, for an additional 1 1/2 hours, until a fork easily pierces the brisket. Using tongs, transfer the brisket to a cutting board. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Place the roasting pan on the stovetop over medium-high heat. Bring the cooking juices to a boil and simmer until the liquid reduces to a thick, velvety sauce, about 10 minutes. Slice the brisket while still warm and serve with the sauce alongside. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Note:\u003c/strong> The brisket can be made 1 day in advance. To store, let brisket and sauce cool completely, then wrap meat in foil and refrigerate. Transfer sauce to a covered container and refrigerate. To serve, slice the brisket when it is cold to prevent it from falling apart. Arrange the slices in a large baking dish and pour the sauce over them. Cover with foil and reheat in a 300ºF oven for 40 minutes. The brisket, whole or sliced, and the sauce can also be frozen for up to 4 weeks. \u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Recipe: Pumpkin Honey Bread\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Reproduced with permission from Nosh on This: Gluten Free Baking from a Jewish-American Kitchen, by Lisa Stander-Horel and Tim Horel (The Experiment, 2013). \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pumpkin is a popular Rosh Hashanah fruit in other parts of the world, particularly in Northern Italy, and to honor that Sephardic tradition, this bread combines the best of both: honey and pumpkin. This recipe can be made as mini loaves that be given as hostess gifts or as one large loaf that would also make a fantastic breakfast bread. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_69343\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/PumpkinHoneyBread.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/PumpkinHoneyBread.jpg\" alt=\"Pumpkin Honey Bread. Photo: Tim Horel\" width=\"1024\" height=\"1024\" class=\"size-full wp-image-69343\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pumpkin Honey Bread. Photo: Tim Horel\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 5 mini loaves or 1 large loaf\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>Nonstick spray, for greasing.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 cups (260 gms) Nosh AP GF flour (\u003cem>see note below\u003c/em>)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3/4 cup (150 gms) sugar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 1/2 tsp baking powder\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 tsp cinnamon\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 tsp nutmeg, freshly grated preferred\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 tsp ground ginger\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 tsp ground cloves\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 tsp ground mace\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 tsp freshly ground pepper (2 turns of the grinder)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 cup (125 gms) canned pure pumpkin puree\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>5 to 6 tbsp (125 gms) honey\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 cup (110 gms) canola oil\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3 tbsp (50 gms) orange juice\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 extra-large eggs\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tbsp (5 gms) orange or tangerine zest, freshly grated\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tsp vanilla extract\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 tsp orange extract\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Preheat oven to 350ºF. Grease 5 mini loaf pans or one 8 1/2\" by 4 1/2\" loaf pan lightly with nonstick spray. Place pan(s) on baking sheet. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, sugar, baking powder, salt, and spices. In a medium bowl, whisk together the pumpkin puree, honey, oil, orange juice, eggs, vanilla, and orange extract. Using a silicon spatula, add the wet ingredients to the dry, folding from the bottom just until no dry material remains. Scrape the mixture into the prepared pan(s) filling evenly two-thirds full.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. For mini loaf pans, bake 20 minutes and rotate the pans for even baking. Turn down the temperature to 325ºF and bake for 15 to 20 minutes more, or until a toothpick comes out with dry crumbs. For a larger loaf, bake at 350ºF for 30 minutes and rotate the pan for even baking. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes more, or until a toothpick comes out with fairly dry crumbs and the edges are dark brown and crispy. Cool in the pan(s) on a rack for 5 minutes. Transfer the loaf or loaves to a rack to cool completely. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Note:\u003c/strong> To make 2 cups (260 gms) Nosh AP GF flour blend, whisk together 1 cup (130 gms) superfine brown rice flour, 1/2 cup (65 gms) superfine white rice flour, and 1/2 cup (65 gms) tapioca starch. \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Rosh Hashanah, the Jewish New Year, comes extra-early this year. Need some inspiration for your holiday cooking? Stephanie Rosenbaum reviews two new Jewish cookbooks--one kosher, one gluten-free--and offers recipes for Best Brisket and Gluten-Free Pumpkin Honey Bread. ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>L'shanah tovah! Our favorite early local apple varieties--Pink Pearls, Gravensteins--have been in the markets for only a week or two, and already it's time to dunk them in honey. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dipping apples in honey is a traditional way to celebrate \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rosh_Hashanah\">Rosh Hashanah\u003c/a>, the Jewish New Year, which begins this year at sundown on Wednesday, Sept 4, and continues through Friday, Sept 6. The practice is meant to celebrate the coming of a sweet year, full of joy and prosperity. Challah, the egg bread typically served on Friday nights, is made richer and sweeter, often with raisins added, and shaped into a towering round rather than the usual oval or rectangular braid. It, too, is dipped in honey before the meal. At lunch and dinner, foods that are sour or bitter are avoided, replaced by savory dishes with a hint of sweetness.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/modernmenudisplay600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/modernmenudisplay600.jpg\" alt=\"The Modern Menu by Kim Kushner\" width=\"400\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-69342\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For this year's holiday meals, I've found contemporary inspiration in \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/9652296325/kqedorg-20\">The Modern Menu\u003c/a> by Kim Kushner, a kosher private chef and cooking teacher. Kushner's palate comes with a cosmopolitan variety of influences, from the Mediterranean and Middle East to Asia and India, to reflect the way we eat now. After spending her childhood summers in Israel (her Moroccan-born, Israeli-raised mother was one of 10 siblings, so family meals were no small events), Ms. Kushner settled in Manhattan, trained professionally at the Institute of Culinary Education, and became a private chef and cooking teacher. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_69340\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/kim-kushner-photo-for-media.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/kim-kushner-photo-for-media.jpg\" alt=\"Kim Kushner, author of The Modern Menu. Photo: Nick Lee\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-69340\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Kim Kushner, author of The Modern Menu. Photo: Nick Lee\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Instead of the old-fashioned, mostly Eastern and Central European-influenced standbys of Jewish-American cooking, Ms. Kushner offers lighter, brighter, and indeed more modern dishes. There's brisket, of course, but sauced with olive oil, beer, ketchup, and cranberry sauce, followed by pesto-crusted lamb chops, lemongrass halibut with cilantro and peanuts, curried cauliflower with tahini and pomegranate, cumin-spiced beet salad, and gelato \"towers\" layered with halvah and sorbet. If you don't keep kosher, you'll hardly notice anything out of the ordinary in this book, except, perhaps, the pronounced lack of bacon and the limited use of cheese, butter, and cream. (Pork and shellfish are forbidden by kosher dietary laws, which also proscribe mixing dairy and meat products in the same dish or at the same meal.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The recipes are straightforward, healthy, and appealing, equally adaptable for both busy weeknights and holiday celebrations. Unfortunately, the layout and visual appeal of the book don't match up to the high quality of the recipes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rather than being divided into typical categories of appetizers, salads, entrees, and the like, the chapters are done menu by menu, with cute but unhelpful headings like \"Clever,\" \"Crisp,\" \"Vibrant,\" and \"Saucy.\" It actually took a close reading of the book to realize that each of these short chapters was actually a planned menu; good as they sound on their own, few of these big-flavor dishes seem ready to share real estate on the plate in a single meal. The \"Modern\" menu, for example, includes three dressed vegetable salads plus sesame-crusted Arctic char--what reads like a skinny-jeans ladies' lunch of three shared appetizers and one entree shorn of its deserved sides and starch. Meanwhile, \"Saucy\" veers from teriyaki-glazed sticky beef ribs and surimi-mango salad in wonton cups to a curried couscous salad and salsa-style tomatoes with cilantro and avocado. Global influences are great, but jamming too many into one meal can make for potluck confusion. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And then there are Andrew Zuckerman's photographs, shot in unadorned, often extreme close-up against a stark white background. Muddy color reproduction means page after page of dishes depicted in unappetizingly washed-out browns, dull greens and grayish yellows. Only the red dishes, featuring brilliantly colored beets or watermelon, look appealing. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/Nosh-on-This.Cover600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/Nosh-on-This.Cover600.jpg\" alt=\"Nosh on This. Gluten-Free Baking From a Jewish-American Kitchen. By Lisa Stander-Horel and Tim Horel. Photo:Tim Horel\" width=\"400\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-69341\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You could see this one coming, couldn't you? The Bay Area's wholehearted adoption of all things gluten-free meets the Jewish love of baking, and the result is \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1615190864/kqedorg-20\">Nosh on This: Gluten-Free Baking from a Jewish-American Kitchen\u003c/a>, by South Bay bloggers Lisa Stander-Horel and Tim Horel. When a gluten-free book gets a glowing blurb from \u003ca href=\"http://www.betterbaking.com/\">Marcy Goldman\u003c/a>, the Canadian baker and author of my much-used favorite, \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1770500030/kqedorg-20\">A Treasury of Jewish Holiday Baking\u003c/a>, even the non-gluten-intolerant should pay attention. These days, it's handy for all busy home bakers to have at least one decent gluten-free cookbook, since the demand and/or expectation of tasty gluten-free cupcakes (not to mention gluten-free pizza and yes, gluten-free beer) at every birthday party has risen dramatically. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_69345\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/Tim-Horel-and-Lisa-Stander-Horel.Author-Photo.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/Tim-Horel-and-Lisa-Stander-Horel.Author-Photo.jpg\" alt=\"Tim Horel and Lisa Stander-Horel. Photo courtesy of the authors.\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-69345\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tim Horel and Lisa Stander-Horel. Photo courtesy of the authors.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>This husband-and-wife team, who blog at \u003ca href=\"http://www.glutenfreecanteen.com\">Gluten-Free Canteen\u003c/a> (she bakes and writes, he shoots the photographs), rely almost exclusively on their own Nosh all-purpose gluten-free flour mix, which they recommend be made from \u003ca href=\"http://www.authenticfoods.com/\">Authentic Foods\u003c/a>' superfine-milled flours, in a proportion of two parts brown rice flour to one part each white rice flour and tapioca starch. For yeast breads, they avoid crumbling by mixing minimal amounts of xanthan gum, pectin, and guar gum with \u003ca href=\"http://www.expandexglutenfree.com/\">Expandex Modified Tapioca Starch\u003c/a> to give \"that nice bendy tear we all know and miss in many gluten-free breads.\" Otherwise, though, they keep the chemistry-set demands to a minimum: this is as close to regular, homey-kitchen baking as gluten-free gets. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>True to its name, the book includes lots of typically Jewish treats, although you don't need to have been bat mitzvah'd to appreciate rugelach, challah, macaroons or mandelbrot. In between the honey cake and hamantaschen are plenty of familiar, everyday sweets and pastries--pies, fruit tarts, layer cakes, cupcakes, brownies, lemon bars, eclairs, even doughnuts (lots and \u003cem>lots\u003c/em> of doughnuts). Those parents whose kids can't eat supermarket sweets should especially enjoy the recipes for homemade cookies inspired by Oreos, Mallomars, Stella D'oro Swiss Fudge Cookies, Fig Newtons, and more. And the tone is lively, fun, and just irreverent enough to make even infrequent bakers feel at home in the kitchen. \u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Recipe: Best Brisket\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Reproduced with permission from The Modern Menu by Kim Kushner (Gefen Publishing House, 2013).\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is the best brisket I've tasted. Almost as great as its amazing flavor is that you can make it a month in advance and freeze it. So convenient! Note that you will need a roasting pan that can be used both on a stovetop and in the oven. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_69353\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 903px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/best-brisket.png\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/best-brisket.png\" alt=\"Best Brisket. Photo: Andrew Zuckerman\" width=\"903\" height=\"557\" class=\"size-full wp-image-69353\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Best Brisket. Photo: Andrew Zuckerman\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Serves 8-10\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>3 tbsp olive oil\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 5-lb first-cut brisket\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 medium yellow onions, sliced\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 12-ounce bottle beer\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3/4 cup ketchup\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 14-oz can cranberry sauce\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 cup red wine\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Preheat the oven to 350ºF. Heat the olive oil in a large roasting pan over medium-high heat. Season the brisket generously with salt and pepper (don't be afraid to over-season). Sear the brisket in the pan until nicely browned on each side, about 4 minutes per side. Remove to a platter. Add the onions to the pan and saute until translucent, about 10 minutes. Place the brisket on the onions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. In a large bowl, whisk together the beer, ketchup, cranberry sauce, and wine. Pour the mixture over the brisket in the pan and bring to a boil.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Cover the pan with foil and bake in the oven for 1 1/2 hours. Carefully turn the brisket over using tongs. Continue baking, covered, for an additional 1 1/2 hours, until a fork easily pierces the brisket. Using tongs, transfer the brisket to a cutting board. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Place the roasting pan on the stovetop over medium-high heat. Bring the cooking juices to a boil and simmer until the liquid reduces to a thick, velvety sauce, about 10 minutes. Slice the brisket while still warm and serve with the sauce alongside. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Note:\u003c/strong> The brisket can be made 1 day in advance. To store, let brisket and sauce cool completely, then wrap meat in foil and refrigerate. Transfer sauce to a covered container and refrigerate. To serve, slice the brisket when it is cold to prevent it from falling apart. Arrange the slices in a large baking dish and pour the sauce over them. Cover with foil and reheat in a 300ºF oven for 40 minutes. The brisket, whole or sliced, and the sauce can also be frozen for up to 4 weeks. \u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Recipe: Pumpkin Honey Bread\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Reproduced with permission from Nosh on This: Gluten Free Baking from a Jewish-American Kitchen, by Lisa Stander-Horel and Tim Horel (The Experiment, 2013). \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pumpkin is a popular Rosh Hashanah fruit in other parts of the world, particularly in Northern Italy, and to honor that Sephardic tradition, this bread combines the best of both: honey and pumpkin. This recipe can be made as mini loaves that be given as hostess gifts or as one large loaf that would also make a fantastic breakfast bread. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_69343\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/PumpkinHoneyBread.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/PumpkinHoneyBread.jpg\" alt=\"Pumpkin Honey Bread. Photo: Tim Horel\" width=\"1024\" height=\"1024\" class=\"size-full wp-image-69343\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pumpkin Honey Bread. Photo: Tim Horel\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 5 mini loaves or 1 large loaf\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>Nonstick spray, for greasing.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 cups (260 gms) Nosh AP GF flour (\u003cem>see note below\u003c/em>)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3/4 cup (150 gms) sugar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 1/2 tsp baking powder\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 tsp cinnamon\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 tsp nutmeg, freshly grated preferred\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 tsp ground ginger\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 tsp ground cloves\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 tsp ground mace\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 tsp freshly ground pepper (2 turns of the grinder)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 cup (125 gms) canned pure pumpkin puree\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>5 to 6 tbsp (125 gms) honey\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 cup (110 gms) canola oil\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3 tbsp (50 gms) orange juice\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 extra-large eggs\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tbsp (5 gms) orange or tangerine zest, freshly grated\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tsp vanilla extract\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 tsp orange extract\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Preheat oven to 350ºF. Grease 5 mini loaf pans or one 8 1/2\" by 4 1/2\" loaf pan lightly with nonstick spray. Place pan(s) on baking sheet. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, sugar, baking powder, salt, and spices. In a medium bowl, whisk together the pumpkin puree, honey, oil, orange juice, eggs, vanilla, and orange extract. Using a silicon spatula, add the wet ingredients to the dry, folding from the bottom just until no dry material remains. Scrape the mixture into the prepared pan(s) filling evenly two-thirds full.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. For mini loaf pans, bake 20 minutes and rotate the pans for even baking. Turn down the temperature to 325ºF and bake for 15 to 20 minutes more, or until a toothpick comes out with dry crumbs. For a larger loaf, bake at 350ºF for 30 minutes and rotate the pan for even baking. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes more, or until a toothpick comes out with fairly dry crumbs and the edges are dark brown and crispy. Cool in the pan(s) on a rack for 5 minutes. Transfer the loaf or loaves to a rack to cool completely. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Note:\u003c/strong> To make 2 cups (260 gms) Nosh AP GF flour blend, whisk together 1 cup (130 gms) superfine brown rice flour, 1/2 cup (65 gms) superfine white rice flour, and 1/2 cup (65 gms) tapioca starch. \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Final Sips of Summer: Easy Cocktails for Labor Day Weekend",
"title": "Final Sips of Summer: Easy Cocktails for Labor Day Weekend",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_69314\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 960px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/Pur-Spice-Punch-final.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/Pur-Spice-Punch-final.jpg\" alt=\"SS Minnow Summer Punch. Photo courtesy of Matt Fleeger of 15Romolo\" width=\"960\" height=\"645\" class=\"size-full wp-image-69314\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">SS Minnow Summer Punch. Photo courtesy of Matt Fleeger of 15Romolo\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Back to school, back from vacation: isn't it cruel that fall's back-to-business calendar inevitably coincides with the long-delayed arrival of summery-feeling weather in San Francisco? But if you're not spending the weekend in Black Rock City, you can pretty much look forward to \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/arts/popculture/article.jsp?essid=67177\">having the city's best hangouts to yourself\u003c/a>. Save the bitters and bourbons, the house-concocted amaros and hyssop tinctures for the lengthening dark nights that will be drawing in soon; for these last, best carefree days, break out the Ritz crackers and pour the drinks that go down chill and easy. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Who knows better than a college student how to get a cheap, festive buzz on? On a recent meander through Missoula, home of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.umt.edu/\">University of Montana\u003c/a>, we stopped in at \u003ca href=\"http://www.blackcoffeeroastingco.com/\">Black Coffee Roasting Company\u003c/a>, an excellent small-batch, organic craft roaster. As the barista pulled us a couple of fine cortados, he reminisced about a recent road trip he and his girlfriend had taken, which ended up--where else?-- in the hour-long line at \u003ca href=\"http://www.tartinebakery.com/\">Tartine Bakery\u003c/a>. And then he shared his favorite up on the roof on a Sunday morning drink: the \u003cstrong>Pablosa,\u003c/strong> a fizzy combo of Pabst Blue Ribbon and orange juice. Mix student-budget sparkling wine with juice and you're just starting your hangover all over again. At least with this kind of canned brew you know what you're getting: call it a session beer on the serious cheap.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once we started thinking of beer as a mixer, well, what sweet to spicy vistas opened up before us! My friend Annika recalled family members downing V8 and beer. For that Baja beachside feel, there's Clamato and beer, garnished with a skewer of pimento olives and a whole shrimp or two. For drinkers who like it hot, try squirting fresh lime juice and a little sriracha sauce into Tecate, maybe add a few drops of fish sauce, and call it a \u003cstrong>Srirachelada,\u003c/strong> a Thai-American spin on a Mexican michelada. (The tequila or mezcal chaser is up to you). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the \u003ca href=\"http://www.hotsytotsyclub.com/cocktails.php\">Hotsy Totsy Club\u003c/a> in Albany, beer's the mixer in two cocktails on the summer list: the \u003cstrong>Devil in Red Dress\u003c/strong> (pisco, lime juice, and Strawberry Harvest lager from Louisiana'a \u003ca href=\"http://www.abita.com\">Abita Brewing Company\u003c/a>), and \u003ca href=\"http://www.britishmuseum.org/explore/highlights/highlight_objects/pd/w/william_hogarth,_beer_street.aspx\">\u003cstrong>Beer Street & Gin Lane\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> (gin, lemon juice, and pilsner with a grapefruit twist). At the recent \u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org/event/yacht-rock-ii-summer-cocktails-farmers-market\">Yacht Rock II\u003c/a>, CUESA's summery, nautically-themed edition of its quarterly Cocktails from the Farmers Market event, Matt Fleeger of North Beach's \u003ca href=\"http://www.15romolo.com\">15 Romolo\u003c/a> was right on trend with his complex, spicy-fruity \u003ca href=\"http://www.gilligansisle.com/minnow.html\">\u003cstrong>S.S. Minnow\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> \u003cstrong>Summer Punch\u003c/strong>. A blend of fresh strawberries, tarragon, and hot peppers with a touch of absinthe and some warming blood orange liqueur from Germany called \u003ca href=\"http://www.purspirits.com/products_spice.html\">Pur Likor Spice\u003c/a>, it was washed ashore by a smooth, golden wave of pilsner. The \u003cstrong>Express Lane,\u003c/strong> a beer cocktail on 15 Romolo's regular menu, tarts up a glass of pilsner with a shot of the Basque-born, tongue-twisting liqueur Ordoki Patxaran--a nod to the bar's location in the old Basque Hotel. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And if just mixing with beer isn't enough for you, enroll in Oakland's Food Craft Institute's upcoming hands-on how-to, the \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodcraftinstitute.org/courses\">Business of Beer\u003c/a>, running from Oct 24 through Dec 21. No mere brewing 101, this is the chance to put your porter to the test and take your beer crafting experience to the next level. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then again, sometimes even a cold beer isn't cold enough. Because what's summer for, if not a frosty round of girly blended drinks? Recently, my pal Christina, an otherwise vegetarian, ayurvedic-minded conscious eater, discovered whipped-cream and birthday-cake flavored vodkas. She now shows up at picnics with jars full of crunchy-spicy-salty puffed rice and chickpea snacks, tubs of lentil and veggie salads, and a thermos of \u003cstrong>Key Limetinis,\u003c/strong> made with coconut milk, stevia extract, key limes (also sold here as Mexican limes), and whipped-cream vodka. A glass of this tastes amazingly like coconut-key lime pie. If you use regular limes, which are tarter than key limes, you can make a \u003cstrong>Tropicatini\u003c/strong> by blending in some ripe mango chunks. Doesn't get much more summery here than that! \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_69315\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/cocktail-beer1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/cocktail-beer1000.jpg\" alt=\"Srirachelada. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-69315\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Srirachelada. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>Srirachelada\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 1 drink\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>1 can Tecate, chilled\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 lime\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 tsp sriracha sauce, or to taste\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>A few drops fish sauce, optional\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Pinch of kosher salt, plus more for salting the glass\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003col>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>Wipe the 1/2 lime around the outside edge of a glass to wet it. Sprinkle salt into a saucer. Swish edge of glass through the salt.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Squeeze lime into glass. Add sriracha sauce and fish sauce, if using. Fill glass with beer. Add sprinkle of salt. Taste and add more sriracha, lime, and/or fish sauce as needed.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_69316\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/cocktail-limetini1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/cocktail-limetini1000.jpg\" alt=\"Key Limetini. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-69316\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Key Limetini. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>Key Limetini\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 1 drink\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>1 oz whipped-cream flavored vodka\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 cup coconut milk\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>6 drops liquid stevia extract, or to taste\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Juice of 2-3 key limes or 1 regular (Persian) lime\u003c/li>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003cem>For the glass:\u003c/em>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cli>1/2 lime\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tbsp graham-cracker crumbs\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 lime wheel, for garnish\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003col>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>Wipe the 1/2 lime around the outside edge of a chilled martini or cocktail glass to wet it. Sprinkle graham cracker crumbs into a saucer. Swish edge of glass through the crumbs to coat.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>In a blender, combine vodka, coconut milk, stevia, lime juice and 2 handfuls ice cubes. Blend until mixture is smooth and thick.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Pour into prepared glass. Garnish with lime wheel.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Skipping the playa this year? Now that it finally feels like summer, kick back and chill out with our easy Labor Day weekend cocktails. ",
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"description": "Skipping the playa this year? Now that it finally feels like summer, kick back and chill out with our easy Labor Day weekend cocktails. ",
"title": "Final Sips of Summer: Easy Cocktails for Labor Day Weekend | KQED",
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"headline": "Final Sips of Summer: Easy Cocktails for Labor Day Weekend",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_69314\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 960px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/Pur-Spice-Punch-final.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/Pur-Spice-Punch-final.jpg\" alt=\"SS Minnow Summer Punch. Photo courtesy of Matt Fleeger of 15Romolo\" width=\"960\" height=\"645\" class=\"size-full wp-image-69314\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">SS Minnow Summer Punch. Photo courtesy of Matt Fleeger of 15Romolo\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Back to school, back from vacation: isn't it cruel that fall's back-to-business calendar inevitably coincides with the long-delayed arrival of summery-feeling weather in San Francisco? But if you're not spending the weekend in Black Rock City, you can pretty much look forward to \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/arts/popculture/article.jsp?essid=67177\">having the city's best hangouts to yourself\u003c/a>. Save the bitters and bourbons, the house-concocted amaros and hyssop tinctures for the lengthening dark nights that will be drawing in soon; for these last, best carefree days, break out the Ritz crackers and pour the drinks that go down chill and easy. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Who knows better than a college student how to get a cheap, festive buzz on? On a recent meander through Missoula, home of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.umt.edu/\">University of Montana\u003c/a>, we stopped in at \u003ca href=\"http://www.blackcoffeeroastingco.com/\">Black Coffee Roasting Company\u003c/a>, an excellent small-batch, organic craft roaster. As the barista pulled us a couple of fine cortados, he reminisced about a recent road trip he and his girlfriend had taken, which ended up--where else?-- in the hour-long line at \u003ca href=\"http://www.tartinebakery.com/\">Tartine Bakery\u003c/a>. And then he shared his favorite up on the roof on a Sunday morning drink: the \u003cstrong>Pablosa,\u003c/strong> a fizzy combo of Pabst Blue Ribbon and orange juice. Mix student-budget sparkling wine with juice and you're just starting your hangover all over again. At least with this kind of canned brew you know what you're getting: call it a session beer on the serious cheap.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once we started thinking of beer as a mixer, well, what sweet to spicy vistas opened up before us! My friend Annika recalled family members downing V8 and beer. For that Baja beachside feel, there's Clamato and beer, garnished with a skewer of pimento olives and a whole shrimp or two. For drinkers who like it hot, try squirting fresh lime juice and a little sriracha sauce into Tecate, maybe add a few drops of fish sauce, and call it a \u003cstrong>Srirachelada,\u003c/strong> a Thai-American spin on a Mexican michelada. (The tequila or mezcal chaser is up to you). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the \u003ca href=\"http://www.hotsytotsyclub.com/cocktails.php\">Hotsy Totsy Club\u003c/a> in Albany, beer's the mixer in two cocktails on the summer list: the \u003cstrong>Devil in Red Dress\u003c/strong> (pisco, lime juice, and Strawberry Harvest lager from Louisiana'a \u003ca href=\"http://www.abita.com\">Abita Brewing Company\u003c/a>), and \u003ca href=\"http://www.britishmuseum.org/explore/highlights/highlight_objects/pd/w/william_hogarth,_beer_street.aspx\">\u003cstrong>Beer Street & Gin Lane\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> (gin, lemon juice, and pilsner with a grapefruit twist). At the recent \u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org/event/yacht-rock-ii-summer-cocktails-farmers-market\">Yacht Rock II\u003c/a>, CUESA's summery, nautically-themed edition of its quarterly Cocktails from the Farmers Market event, Matt Fleeger of North Beach's \u003ca href=\"http://www.15romolo.com\">15 Romolo\u003c/a> was right on trend with his complex, spicy-fruity \u003ca href=\"http://www.gilligansisle.com/minnow.html\">\u003cstrong>S.S. Minnow\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> \u003cstrong>Summer Punch\u003c/strong>. A blend of fresh strawberries, tarragon, and hot peppers with a touch of absinthe and some warming blood orange liqueur from Germany called \u003ca href=\"http://www.purspirits.com/products_spice.html\">Pur Likor Spice\u003c/a>, it was washed ashore by a smooth, golden wave of pilsner. The \u003cstrong>Express Lane,\u003c/strong> a beer cocktail on 15 Romolo's regular menu, tarts up a glass of pilsner with a shot of the Basque-born, tongue-twisting liqueur Ordoki Patxaran--a nod to the bar's location in the old Basque Hotel. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And if just mixing with beer isn't enough for you, enroll in Oakland's Food Craft Institute's upcoming hands-on how-to, the \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodcraftinstitute.org/courses\">Business of Beer\u003c/a>, running from Oct 24 through Dec 21. No mere brewing 101, this is the chance to put your porter to the test and take your beer crafting experience to the next level. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then again, sometimes even a cold beer isn't cold enough. Because what's summer for, if not a frosty round of girly blended drinks? Recently, my pal Christina, an otherwise vegetarian, ayurvedic-minded conscious eater, discovered whipped-cream and birthday-cake flavored vodkas. She now shows up at picnics with jars full of crunchy-spicy-salty puffed rice and chickpea snacks, tubs of lentil and veggie salads, and a thermos of \u003cstrong>Key Limetinis,\u003c/strong> made with coconut milk, stevia extract, key limes (also sold here as Mexican limes), and whipped-cream vodka. A glass of this tastes amazingly like coconut-key lime pie. If you use regular limes, which are tarter than key limes, you can make a \u003cstrong>Tropicatini\u003c/strong> by blending in some ripe mango chunks. Doesn't get much more summery here than that! \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_69315\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/cocktail-beer1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/cocktail-beer1000.jpg\" alt=\"Srirachelada. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-69315\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Srirachelada. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>Srirachelada\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 1 drink\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>1 can Tecate, chilled\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 lime\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 tsp sriracha sauce, or to taste\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>A few drops fish sauce, optional\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Pinch of kosher salt, plus more for salting the glass\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003col>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>Wipe the 1/2 lime around the outside edge of a glass to wet it. Sprinkle salt into a saucer. Swish edge of glass through the salt.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Squeeze lime into glass. Add sriracha sauce and fish sauce, if using. Fill glass with beer. Add sprinkle of salt. Taste and add more sriracha, lime, and/or fish sauce as needed.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_69316\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/cocktail-limetini1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/cocktail-limetini1000.jpg\" alt=\"Key Limetini. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-69316\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Key Limetini. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>Key Limetini\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 1 drink\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>1 oz whipped-cream flavored vodka\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 cup coconut milk\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>6 drops liquid stevia extract, or to taste\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Juice of 2-3 key limes or 1 regular (Persian) lime\u003c/li>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003cem>For the glass:\u003c/em>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cli>1/2 lime\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tbsp graham-cracker crumbs\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 lime wheel, for garnish\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003col>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>Wipe the 1/2 lime around the outside edge of a chilled martini or cocktail glass to wet it. Sprinkle graham cracker crumbs into a saucer. Swish edge of glass through the crumbs to coat.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>In a blender, combine vodka, coconut milk, stevia, lime juice and 2 handfuls ice cubes. Blend until mixture is smooth and thick.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Pour into prepared glass. Garnish with lime wheel.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "3 Recipes: Roasted Tomatoes, The Perfect Accessory For Summer Dishes",
"title": "3 Recipes: Roasted Tomatoes, The Perfect Accessory For Summer Dishes",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_69020\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/roast-tomatoes.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/roast-tomatoes.jpg\" alt=\"Roasted tomatoes. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\" width=\"1120\" height=\"628\" class=\"size-full wp-image-69020\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Roasted tomatoes. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/10593559/t-susan-chang\">T. Susan Chang\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2013/08/28/215862597/roasted-tomatoes-the-perfect-accessory-for-summer-dishes\">Kitchen Window at NPR Food\u003c/a> (8/28/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Get recipes for \u003ca href=\"#orzo\">Orzo Salad With Roasted Cherry Tomatoes, Toasted Pine Nuts And Basil\u003c/a>; \u003ca href=\"#pork\">Pork Tenderloin With Roasted Tomato-Thyme Gravy\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"#tart\">Roasted Tomato Tart With Caramelized Onions And Parmesan Crust\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At this time of year, we all love tomatoes. Many of us claim we'll \"take a big juicy tomato and bite into it like it's an apple,\" although you won't often see that happen in actual fact.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yet, even people who love a juicy fresh tomato also are likely to enjoy it with all the juice sucked out, as in sun-dried tomatoes and — especially — roasted tomatoes. It's the way the process acts on flavors, caramelizing what's on the outside, concentrating what's on the inside. It's true even for a soulless, pale-pink January tomato. You can count on roasting to isolate and spotlight whatever sugars are to be found in that poor, hardhearted, well-traveled specimen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But when you roast an August tomato — the Rita Hayworth of nightshades, seething in aromatic volatile compounds, complex with the sweetness of captured sunlight, intrinsically tart with citric and malic acids — well, then, you have something worth stopping the presses for. Dressed in caramel notes, with a suggestion of salt and a big wink toward vinegar, a roasted tomato's most memorable feature is its long, sensuous, deep and savory finish. It's a tone poem in umami, and by the time you reach the coda it's already instructed your brain to reach for the next.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At first glance, when you start comparing people's methods for roasting tomatoes, you'll think the world has gone mad. Some tell you to roast at 450 degrees for 30 minutes. Some tell you to roast at 250 degrees for 3 hours. Others say 350 for 2 hours. \u003cem>What is going on?\u003c/em> The thing is, they all work. All you're doing is taking out the water and browning the outside a little. You can do it fast, in which case it will be sludgy but luscious in the middle, with a slippery, detachable outside. Or you can do it slowly, in which case the texture will be more cohesive, uniformly tacky and chewy. Same great taste.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>How much does it change matters if you use cherry or grape tomatoes instead of full-size ones? The most important factor is how much air circulates around each piece of tomato, so smaller pieces will tend to dry faster. Just be sure to drizzle on some oil, and don't be shy — fat carries flavor, and there's a lot of flavor to carry here.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once you've got your roasted tomatoes, you can store them in the refrigerator for as long as it takes to use them up, and, trust me, it won't be long. The oil you so considerately drizzled over them when you were about to pop them in the oven will also help to keep them fresh.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are as many ways to eat a roasted tomato as there are cooks. You can tuck them into pastas and pasta salads with a drizzle of balsamic. They're sensational with basil, the eternal tomato sidekick. You can use them as a base for gravy whose depth and character will bring tears to your eyes. You can showcase them in a gorgeous tart, layered like russet roof tiles in a golden pastry frame. Or you can toss them with some crisp-crusted potatoes with maybe some flecks of olive, and spend a happy half-hour alternating tomato-potato bites in a partial swoon, unable to decide which you love more.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's a happy problem to have, and a specifically \u003cem>summer\u003c/em> sort of happy problem, like whether to wear your strappy sandals or your cork wedges, or whether you should go for a swim or nap in the hammock. Enjoy it while you can — because while the roasted tomatoes of August may indeed be unforgettable, you certainly don't want to wait until they're nothing more than a memory.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"orzo\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Orzo Salad With Roasted Cherry Tomatoes, Toasted Pine Nuts And Basil\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>I think this very simple but satisfying salad looks loveliest if you have a mix of colors — maybe some orange sun gold cherry tomatoes mixed in with the red.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_69018\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/roast-tomato-orzo.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/roast-tomato-orzo.jpg\" alt=\"Orzo Salad With Roasted Cherry Tomatoes, Toasted Pine Nuts And Basil. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\" width=\"1120\" height=\"839\" class=\"size-full wp-image-69018\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Orzo Salad With Roasted Cherry Tomatoes, Toasted Pine Nuts And Basil. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 6 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 pints cherry or grape tomatoes, or a mix\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Olive oil for tossing the tomatoes\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Salt to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 pound orzo\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup pine nuts\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 large bunch basil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Red wine vinegar and fresh pepper to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preheat the oven to 250 degrees (or 200 with convection).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Halve the tomatoes lengthwise and toss with plenty of oil until they glisten. Arrange them cut side up on a foil-lined baking sheet with plenty of space in between and sprinkle with just a bit of salt. Roast for 1 hour and 15-30 minutes, checking every half-hour on their progress. If they start to turn a deep brown on their undersides, pull them right away — they're about to burn. You want them tacky and slightly shriveled but not completely dry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While the tomatoes are roasting, boil a pot of water. Cook the orzo according to the package directions, drain and toss with oil to prevent clumping. As it cools, toast the pine nuts over low heat in a small, dry skillet until they're evenly bronzed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Toss the tomatoes, orzo and pine nuts together with a splash of red wine vinegar. Shred the basil by hand and toss at the very last minute, as both the vinegar and the heat are liable to make it discolor. Serve at room temperature. It's also good picnic food, tossed with a little more olive oil and served cold.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"pork\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Pork Tenderloin With Roasted Tomato-Thyme Gravy\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This is high-heat roasting, enough to concentrate the tomato flavor, but not enough to dry out the pulp, so don't be surprised if the tomatoes remain a bit sludgy. The recipe is adapted from \u003c/em>Sara Foster's Southern Kitchen\u003cem> (Random House, 2011). Foster suggests you serve it with \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2013/07/31/207060436/buttermilk--makes--everything--taste--a--little--better\" target=\"_blank\">buttermilk biscuits\u003c/a>,\u003cem> which is great if you have the time. But the pork with its swoon-worthy gravy is memorable all by itself.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_69016\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/roast-tomatoes-pork.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/roast-tomatoes-pork.jpg\" alt=\"Pork Tenderloin With Roasted Tomato-Thyme Gravy. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\" width=\"1120\" height=\"839\" class=\"size-full wp-image-69016\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pork Tenderloin With Roasted Tomato-Thyme Gravy. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 plum tomatoes, cored and halved\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1-pound pork tenderloin or center-cut loin, trimmed\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons fresh thyme\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/3 cup flour\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon unsalted butter\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cups low-sodium chicken broth\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Place the tomatoes on a rimmed baking sheet and toss with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil and the vinegar. Season with salt and pepper to taste and bake for about 30 minutes, until the skins begin to shrivel and the tomatoes start to caramelize. Remove from the oven and set aside until cool enough to handle. Remove and discard the skins (they will slip right off) and roughly chop the tomatoes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While the tomatoes are cooking, rinse the pork, pat dry and remove any silver skin. Heat the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat until sizzling hot. Slice the tenderloin into rounds about 1/4- to 1/2-inch thick and sprinkle with the thyme and salt and pepper to taste, pressing lightly so the seasonings adhere. Dip the rounds in the flour to coat both sides lightly; reserve the remaining flour. Place the pork in the skillet and saute for about 2 minutes per side, until light brown around the edges. Remove the meat from the skillet, place on a plate and cover loosely.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Add the butter to the same skillet and melt until sizzling hot. Add 2 tablespoons of the reserved dredging flour and stir to scrape any brown bits from the bottom of the skillet. Cook, stirring constantly, for about 1 minute, just until the flour cooks slightly and turns light brown. Whisk in the broth and stir until the gravy is slightly thick and smooth. Add the tomatoes and cook, stirring frequently, until the gravy comes to a boil and thickens, 3 to 5 minutes. Reduce the heat to low and return the tenderloin slices to the skillet with the gravy just to warm through.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"tart\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Roasted Tomato Tart With Caramelized Onions And Parmesan Crust\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This is one of those tarts that come together in no time if you happen to have the roasted tomatoes and the caramelized onions already made. Otherwise, grab a glass of wine and a friend and prepare to hang out in an increasingly fragrant kitchen for a couple of hours.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_69019\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/roast-tomato-tart.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/roast-tomato-tart.jpg\" alt=\"Roasted Tomato Tart With Caramelized Onions And Parmesan Crust. Photo: T. Susan Chang\" width=\"1120\" height=\"839\" class=\"size-full wp-image-69019\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Roasted Tomato Tart With Caramelized Onions And Parmesan Crust. Photo: T. Susan Chang\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 6 to 8 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Tart Dough\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup white whole wheat or all-purpose flour\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup freshly grated Parmesan\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pinch kosher salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 stick cold unsalted butter, cut into 6 or 8 large chunks\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup water, in a measuring cup with a couple of ice cubes thrown in.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Tart Filling\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 large ripe tomatoes\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Olive oil for coating the onions and the tomatoes\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1-2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 large onions, halved and thinly sliced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Kosher salt to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5 oil-packed anchovy fillets\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup crumbled feta cheese\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Freshly ground black pepper to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preheat the oven to 250 degrees.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Line a large baking sheet with parchment paper and lightly oil the paper. Slice the tomatoes 1/3- to 1/2-inch thick and lay them out, well-spaced, on the baking sheet. Drizzle with balsamic vinegar and enough olive oil so that the slices glisten evenly (if your olive oil pools and splotches, just grab a brush and baste the slices with it). Sprinkle with just a pinch of kosher salt. Roast for 1 1/2 hours, flipping the slices halfway through, until tomatoes are collapsed, but firm enough to turn with spatula, and a bit tacky and chewy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While the tomatoes are roasting, make the tart dough.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the bowl of a food processor, pulse the flour, salt and Parmesan briefly to combine. Add the butter chunks and continue pulsing until the mixture is coarsely combined (particles should be a mix of sizes, from sand- to rice- to pea-size). Add a tablespoon or so of water, and pulse a couple of times; repeat. Finally, add just a bit more water and pulse a few times until the dough begins to clump together in little pellets, smaller than a grain of rice. There should be almost no visible flour particles left in the bowl. Pulse two or three more times, so the pellets start to clump, and turn out onto a work surface. Shape gently into a disk about as thick as your thumb. Wrap in plastic and chill in the refrigerator for 20-30 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. While the dough's chilling, caramelize the onions. Add the thin slices to a heavy, wide-bottomed pot with a generous pinch of kosher salt and enough oil to coat the onions. Stir them thoroughly to coat and then let them sweat, gently, over low heat, until they soften and their moisture has dampened the pan and then evaporated, about 20 minutes; stir as often as you have to so that they don't color at this point. If the pan is dry, add a half-cup of water and continue to cook for another 20 minutes or so until the pan is dry again. Add a tiny bit more oil — enough to help the onions glide over the bottom of the pan. They will color quickly at this point, so stir continuously until they are an even caramel color throughout. Add the anchovies, breaking them up with a fork and working them into the onions. Remove from heat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While you're minding the onions, you'll have enough time to blind-bake the tart dough. Remove the tart dough from the refrigerator and press it into a 1/3-inch-thick round with a rolling pin, using a little flour to keep the dough from sticking to the counter if necessary. Then roll it out into a 1/8- to 1/4-inch round.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place the dough in a fluted 9-inch tart pan with removable bottom. Fit snugly in the pan and roll a rolling pin over the top of the pan to cut off any overhang. Refrigerate for 10 minutes more. Place the tart pan on a baking sheet, set a sheet of parchment paper against the surface of the dough and fill with pie weights or dried beans. Bake for 10 minutes, until just pale gold. Prick the dough with a fork.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lower the oven temperature to 300 degrees. Spread the caramelized onions on the base. Crumble the feta cheese onto the onions. Layer on the roasted tomatoes in overlapping circles. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, until the tomatoes are vibrant and slightly more shrunken and the feta has melted a bit. Unmold gingerly and serve.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>About the Author\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nT. Susan Chang regularly reviews cookbooks for \u003cem>The Boston Globe,\u003c/em> \u003ca href=\"http://npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR.org\u003c/a> and the cookbook-indexing website \u003ca href=\"http://www.eatyourbooks.com/\">Eat Your Books\u003c/a>. She's the author of \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Spoonful-Promises-Stories-Recipes-Well-Tempered/dp/0762772506/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1303827445&sr=8-1\">A Spoonful of Promises: Recipes and Stories From a Well-Tempered Table\u003c/a> and has just released the \u003ca href=\"http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/cookshelf-cookbook-rating/id638554845?mt=8\">CookShelf cookbook-rating app\u003c/a>, which is available on iPhone, iPad and Android devices. For more information, visit her blog, \u003ca href=\"http://tsusanchang.wordpress.com/\">Cookbooks for Dinner\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_69020\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/roast-tomatoes.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/roast-tomatoes.jpg\" alt=\"Roasted tomatoes. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\" width=\"1120\" height=\"628\" class=\"size-full wp-image-69020\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Roasted tomatoes. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/10593559/t-susan-chang\">T. Susan Chang\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2013/08/28/215862597/roasted-tomatoes-the-perfect-accessory-for-summer-dishes\">Kitchen Window at NPR Food\u003c/a> (8/28/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Get recipes for \u003ca href=\"#orzo\">Orzo Salad With Roasted Cherry Tomatoes, Toasted Pine Nuts And Basil\u003c/a>; \u003ca href=\"#pork\">Pork Tenderloin With Roasted Tomato-Thyme Gravy\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"#tart\">Roasted Tomato Tart With Caramelized Onions And Parmesan Crust\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At this time of year, we all love tomatoes. Many of us claim we'll \"take a big juicy tomato and bite into it like it's an apple,\" although you won't often see that happen in actual fact.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yet, even people who love a juicy fresh tomato also are likely to enjoy it with all the juice sucked out, as in sun-dried tomatoes and — especially — roasted tomatoes. It's the way the process acts on flavors, caramelizing what's on the outside, concentrating what's on the inside. It's true even for a soulless, pale-pink January tomato. You can count on roasting to isolate and spotlight whatever sugars are to be found in that poor, hardhearted, well-traveled specimen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But when you roast an August tomato — the Rita Hayworth of nightshades, seething in aromatic volatile compounds, complex with the sweetness of captured sunlight, intrinsically tart with citric and malic acids — well, then, you have something worth stopping the presses for. Dressed in caramel notes, with a suggestion of salt and a big wink toward vinegar, a roasted tomato's most memorable feature is its long, sensuous, deep and savory finish. It's a tone poem in umami, and by the time you reach the coda it's already instructed your brain to reach for the next.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At first glance, when you start comparing people's methods for roasting tomatoes, you'll think the world has gone mad. Some tell you to roast at 450 degrees for 30 minutes. Some tell you to roast at 250 degrees for 3 hours. Others say 350 for 2 hours. \u003cem>What is going on?\u003c/em> The thing is, they all work. All you're doing is taking out the water and browning the outside a little. You can do it fast, in which case it will be sludgy but luscious in the middle, with a slippery, detachable outside. Or you can do it slowly, in which case the texture will be more cohesive, uniformly tacky and chewy. Same great taste.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>How much does it change matters if you use cherry or grape tomatoes instead of full-size ones? The most important factor is how much air circulates around each piece of tomato, so smaller pieces will tend to dry faster. Just be sure to drizzle on some oil, and don't be shy — fat carries flavor, and there's a lot of flavor to carry here.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once you've got your roasted tomatoes, you can store them in the refrigerator for as long as it takes to use them up, and, trust me, it won't be long. The oil you so considerately drizzled over them when you were about to pop them in the oven will also help to keep them fresh.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are as many ways to eat a roasted tomato as there are cooks. You can tuck them into pastas and pasta salads with a drizzle of balsamic. They're sensational with basil, the eternal tomato sidekick. You can use them as a base for gravy whose depth and character will bring tears to your eyes. You can showcase them in a gorgeous tart, layered like russet roof tiles in a golden pastry frame. Or you can toss them with some crisp-crusted potatoes with maybe some flecks of olive, and spend a happy half-hour alternating tomato-potato bites in a partial swoon, unable to decide which you love more.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's a happy problem to have, and a specifically \u003cem>summer\u003c/em> sort of happy problem, like whether to wear your strappy sandals or your cork wedges, or whether you should go for a swim or nap in the hammock. Enjoy it while you can — because while the roasted tomatoes of August may indeed be unforgettable, you certainly don't want to wait until they're nothing more than a memory.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"orzo\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Orzo Salad With Roasted Cherry Tomatoes, Toasted Pine Nuts And Basil\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>I think this very simple but satisfying salad looks loveliest if you have a mix of colors — maybe some orange sun gold cherry tomatoes mixed in with the red.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_69018\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/roast-tomato-orzo.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/roast-tomato-orzo.jpg\" alt=\"Orzo Salad With Roasted Cherry Tomatoes, Toasted Pine Nuts And Basil. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\" width=\"1120\" height=\"839\" class=\"size-full wp-image-69018\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Orzo Salad With Roasted Cherry Tomatoes, Toasted Pine Nuts And Basil. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 6 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 pints cherry or grape tomatoes, or a mix\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Olive oil for tossing the tomatoes\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Salt to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 pound orzo\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup pine nuts\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 large bunch basil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Red wine vinegar and fresh pepper to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preheat the oven to 250 degrees (or 200 with convection).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Halve the tomatoes lengthwise and toss with plenty of oil until they glisten. Arrange them cut side up on a foil-lined baking sheet with plenty of space in between and sprinkle with just a bit of salt. Roast for 1 hour and 15-30 minutes, checking every half-hour on their progress. If they start to turn a deep brown on their undersides, pull them right away — they're about to burn. You want them tacky and slightly shriveled but not completely dry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While the tomatoes are roasting, boil a pot of water. Cook the orzo according to the package directions, drain and toss with oil to prevent clumping. As it cools, toast the pine nuts over low heat in a small, dry skillet until they're evenly bronzed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Toss the tomatoes, orzo and pine nuts together with a splash of red wine vinegar. Shred the basil by hand and toss at the very last minute, as both the vinegar and the heat are liable to make it discolor. Serve at room temperature. It's also good picnic food, tossed with a little more olive oil and served cold.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"pork\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Pork Tenderloin With Roasted Tomato-Thyme Gravy\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This is high-heat roasting, enough to concentrate the tomato flavor, but not enough to dry out the pulp, so don't be surprised if the tomatoes remain a bit sludgy. The recipe is adapted from \u003c/em>Sara Foster's Southern Kitchen\u003cem> (Random House, 2011). Foster suggests you serve it with \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2013/07/31/207060436/buttermilk--makes--everything--taste--a--little--better\" target=\"_blank\">buttermilk biscuits\u003c/a>,\u003cem> which is great if you have the time. But the pork with its swoon-worthy gravy is memorable all by itself.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_69016\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/roast-tomatoes-pork.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/roast-tomatoes-pork.jpg\" alt=\"Pork Tenderloin With Roasted Tomato-Thyme Gravy. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\" width=\"1120\" height=\"839\" class=\"size-full wp-image-69016\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pork Tenderloin With Roasted Tomato-Thyme Gravy. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 plum tomatoes, cored and halved\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1-pound pork tenderloin or center-cut loin, trimmed\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons fresh thyme\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/3 cup flour\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon unsalted butter\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cups low-sodium chicken broth\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Place the tomatoes on a rimmed baking sheet and toss with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil and the vinegar. Season with salt and pepper to taste and bake for about 30 minutes, until the skins begin to shrivel and the tomatoes start to caramelize. Remove from the oven and set aside until cool enough to handle. Remove and discard the skins (they will slip right off) and roughly chop the tomatoes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While the tomatoes are cooking, rinse the pork, pat dry and remove any silver skin. Heat the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat until sizzling hot. Slice the tenderloin into rounds about 1/4- to 1/2-inch thick and sprinkle with the thyme and salt and pepper to taste, pressing lightly so the seasonings adhere. Dip the rounds in the flour to coat both sides lightly; reserve the remaining flour. Place the pork in the skillet and saute for about 2 minutes per side, until light brown around the edges. Remove the meat from the skillet, place on a plate and cover loosely.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Add the butter to the same skillet and melt until sizzling hot. Add 2 tablespoons of the reserved dredging flour and stir to scrape any brown bits from the bottom of the skillet. Cook, stirring constantly, for about 1 minute, just until the flour cooks slightly and turns light brown. Whisk in the broth and stir until the gravy is slightly thick and smooth. Add the tomatoes and cook, stirring frequently, until the gravy comes to a boil and thickens, 3 to 5 minutes. Reduce the heat to low and return the tenderloin slices to the skillet with the gravy just to warm through.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"tart\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Roasted Tomato Tart With Caramelized Onions And Parmesan Crust\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This is one of those tarts that come together in no time if you happen to have the roasted tomatoes and the caramelized onions already made. Otherwise, grab a glass of wine and a friend and prepare to hang out in an increasingly fragrant kitchen for a couple of hours.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_69019\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/roast-tomato-tart.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/roast-tomato-tart.jpg\" alt=\"Roasted Tomato Tart With Caramelized Onions And Parmesan Crust. Photo: T. Susan Chang\" width=\"1120\" height=\"839\" class=\"size-full wp-image-69019\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Roasted Tomato Tart With Caramelized Onions And Parmesan Crust. Photo: T. Susan Chang\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 6 to 8 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Tart Dough\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup white whole wheat or all-purpose flour\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup freshly grated Parmesan\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pinch kosher salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 stick cold unsalted butter, cut into 6 or 8 large chunks\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup water, in a measuring cup with a couple of ice cubes thrown in.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Tart Filling\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 large ripe tomatoes\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Olive oil for coating the onions and the tomatoes\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1-2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 large onions, halved and thinly sliced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Kosher salt to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5 oil-packed anchovy fillets\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup crumbled feta cheese\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Freshly ground black pepper to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preheat the oven to 250 degrees.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Line a large baking sheet with parchment paper and lightly oil the paper. Slice the tomatoes 1/3- to 1/2-inch thick and lay them out, well-spaced, on the baking sheet. Drizzle with balsamic vinegar and enough olive oil so that the slices glisten evenly (if your olive oil pools and splotches, just grab a brush and baste the slices with it). Sprinkle with just a pinch of kosher salt. Roast for 1 1/2 hours, flipping the slices halfway through, until tomatoes are collapsed, but firm enough to turn with spatula, and a bit tacky and chewy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While the tomatoes are roasting, make the tart dough.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the bowl of a food processor, pulse the flour, salt and Parmesan briefly to combine. Add the butter chunks and continue pulsing until the mixture is coarsely combined (particles should be a mix of sizes, from sand- to rice- to pea-size). Add a tablespoon or so of water, and pulse a couple of times; repeat. Finally, add just a bit more water and pulse a few times until the dough begins to clump together in little pellets, smaller than a grain of rice. There should be almost no visible flour particles left in the bowl. Pulse two or three more times, so the pellets start to clump, and turn out onto a work surface. Shape gently into a disk about as thick as your thumb. Wrap in plastic and chill in the refrigerator for 20-30 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. While the dough's chilling, caramelize the onions. Add the thin slices to a heavy, wide-bottomed pot with a generous pinch of kosher salt and enough oil to coat the onions. Stir them thoroughly to coat and then let them sweat, gently, over low heat, until they soften and their moisture has dampened the pan and then evaporated, about 20 minutes; stir as often as you have to so that they don't color at this point. If the pan is dry, add a half-cup of water and continue to cook for another 20 minutes or so until the pan is dry again. Add a tiny bit more oil — enough to help the onions glide over the bottom of the pan. They will color quickly at this point, so stir continuously until they are an even caramel color throughout. Add the anchovies, breaking them up with a fork and working them into the onions. Remove from heat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While you're minding the onions, you'll have enough time to blind-bake the tart dough. Remove the tart dough from the refrigerator and press it into a 1/3-inch-thick round with a rolling pin, using a little flour to keep the dough from sticking to the counter if necessary. Then roll it out into a 1/8- to 1/4-inch round.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place the dough in a fluted 9-inch tart pan with removable bottom. Fit snugly in the pan and roll a rolling pin over the top of the pan to cut off any overhang. Refrigerate for 10 minutes more. Place the tart pan on a baking sheet, set a sheet of parchment paper against the surface of the dough and fill with pie weights or dried beans. Bake for 10 minutes, until just pale gold. Prick the dough with a fork.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lower the oven temperature to 300 degrees. Spread the caramelized onions on the base. Crumble the feta cheese onto the onions. Layer on the roasted tomatoes in overlapping circles. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, until the tomatoes are vibrant and slightly more shrunken and the feta has melted a bit. Unmold gingerly and serve.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>About the Author\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nT. Susan Chang regularly reviews cookbooks for \u003cem>The Boston Globe,\u003c/em> \u003ca href=\"http://npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR.org\u003c/a> and the cookbook-indexing website \u003ca href=\"http://www.eatyourbooks.com/\">Eat Your Books\u003c/a>. She's the author of \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Spoonful-Promises-Stories-Recipes-Well-Tempered/dp/0762772506/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1303827445&sr=8-1\">A Spoonful of Promises: Recipes and Stories From a Well-Tempered Table\u003c/a> and has just released the \u003ca href=\"http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/cookshelf-cookbook-rating/id638554845?mt=8\">CookShelf cookbook-rating app\u003c/a>, which is available on iPhone, iPad and Android devices. For more information, visit her blog, \u003ca href=\"http://tsusanchang.wordpress.com/\">Cookbooks for Dinner\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "Tortellini, The Dumpling Inspired By Venus' Navel",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68917\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/venus.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/venus.jpg\" alt=\"Even in Sandro Botticelli's painting <em>The Birth of Venus,</em> the goddess's belly resembles a plump, firm tortellino. Image: Wikimedia.org\" width=\"1120\" height=\"693\" class=\"size-full wp-image-68917\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Even in Sandro Botticelli's painting \u003cem>The Birth of Venus,\u003c/em> the goddess's belly resembles a plump, firm tortellino. Image: \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Sandro_Botticelli_-_La_nascita_di_Venere_-_Google_Art_Project_-_edited.jpg\">Wikimedia.org\u003c/a>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/08/27/210555719/tortellini-the-dumpling-inspired-by-venus-navel\">Morning Edition\u003c/a> [audio src=\"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2013/08/20130827_me_05.mp3\"] \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Post by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/2101034/sylvia-poggioli\">Sylvia Poggioli\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/08/27/210555719/tortellini-the-dumpling-inspired-by-venus-navel\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (98/27/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tortellini — small circles of rolled dough folded around a filling — are one of the most renowned members of the Italian pasta family. In the land of their birth, the region near the Italian city of Bologna, they're strictly served as broth-like dumplings.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Possibly no foodstuff in Italian cuisine is surrounded by so much history and lore.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68916\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/tortellino.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/tortellino.jpg\" alt=\"A young boy in Castelfranco Emilia, Italy, shows off a ceramic version of a tortellino during the town's annual celebration of the pasta's nameless inventor.\" width=\"290\" class=\"size-full wp-image-68916\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A young boy in Castelfranco Emilia, Italy, shows off a ceramic version of a tortellino during the town's annual celebration of the pasta's nameless inventor. Photo courtesy of \u003ca href=\"http://www.lacarbonarablog.it/\">La Carbonara blog\u003c/a>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Legend has it that Venus, the goddess of love, once stayed at the local tavern in the town of \u003ca href=\"https://maps.google.com/maps?q=castelfranco+emilia&ll=44.590467,11.052246&spn=5.664388,8.118896&hnear=Castelfranco+Emilia,+Provincia+di+Modena,+Emilia-Romagna,+Italy&gl=us&t=m&z=7\">Castelfranco Emilia\u003c/a>, halfway between the gastronomic giants Bologna and Modena.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The innkeeper spied on his guest through the keyhole of her room and got a partial glimpse of her. Struck by what he saw, he rushed to his kitchen, rolled out a sheet of fresh egg pasta and invented a shape inspired by Venus' navel.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Every year, Castelfranco Emilia celebrates its favorite son — the nameless inventor of the most sensual of all pasta shapes. Drummers, flag-throwers and local residents parade through town dressed in elaborate Renaissance costumes. On a makeshift stage, the legend of the peeping-Tom innkeeper is more or less re-enacted. The mood is festive and suitable for children.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Inspired by the sight of the divine navel,\" the master of ceremonies intones, \"our innkeeper invents the prestigious ... tortellino!\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While its origins may not be in antiquity, the first known tortellino recipe dates to 1570.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Gianni degli Angeli is the president of the San Nicola Association, which has taken on the task of safeguarding the local region's renowned culinary traditions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He says the No. 1 symbol of the local gastronomic culture is the tortellino. \"In times of poverty and hardship, we ate tortellini only at Christmas, Easter and at weddings, because the filling is made of costly ingredients like prosciutto and parmesan cheese,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tortellini are an integral part of family life in the Emilia region, says Massimo Bottura, chef and owner of a three-Michelin-star restaurant in Modena. \"I grew up under the kitchen table escaping my older brothers at my grandmother's, where flour fell on my feet.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Turning Flour And Eggs Into Tortellini\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nWomen from Castelfranco Emilia, Italy, demonstrate how they prepared 180 kilograms of tortellini for the 2012 London Olympics.\u003c/p>\n\u003cdiv class=\"single-video\">\u003ciframe width=\"600\" height=\"338\" src=\"http://www.npr.org/templates/event/embeddedVideo.php?storyId=210555719&mediaId=211357601\" frameborder=\"0\" scrolling=\"no\">\u003c/iframe>\u003c/div>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Source: Appeditor 2013 Tutti i diritti riservati\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Credit: Il Tortellino Progetto e realizzazione di Lucia Barbieri, Paola Busani e Monica Ropa\u003cbr>\n\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At an international gathering of famous chefs, he said that tortellini bring out a competitive spirit. \"Every family has its own recipe for tortellini, more Parmigiano, less Parmigiano,\" he says. \"I don't put prosciutto. I want mortadella. There are more discussions about tortellini in our family, in every Emilian family, than about politics.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Politics and soccer are way outranked in Emilia by the desire to eat well — \u003cem>very\u003c/em> well.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Making tortellini is an elaborate operation and has long been the domain of women known as \u003cem>sfogline\u003c/em>. The word derives from \u003cem>sfoglia,\u003c/em> the sheet of fresh egg pasta that is painstakingly rolled out by hand.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Grazia Battistini is 63 years old, and she's been a \u003cem>sfoglina\u003c/em> for some 50 years.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68919\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/sfoglina-tortellini.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/sfoglina-tortellini.jpg\" alt=\"Grazia Battistini, 63, has been been making tortellini as a <em>sfoglina </em>for about 50 years. A statue of the ideal tortellino shape sits in the foreground. Photo: Sylvia Poggioli/NPR\" width=\"290\" class=\"size-full wp-image-68919\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Grazia Battistini, 63, has been been making tortellini as a \u003cem>sfoglina \u003c/em>for about 50 years. A statue of the ideal tortellino shape sits in the foreground. Photo: Sylvia Poggioli/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"Grandmothers and mothers handed down the tradition to daughters and granddaughters. We started when we were 7 or 8 years old,\" she says. \"If we couldn't reach the tabletop, they gave us a stool to stand on. Little by little, we learned to roll and then to cut the pasta. We had to be careful not to cut our fingers.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For most of her life, Battistini says, making fresh egg pasta was an activity that involved the entire family. \"It was an occasion for socialization,\" she says. \"We were all together, men, women, children, everyone working together collectively.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Battistini gives us a demonstration on a wooden tabletop.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"For every 4 ounces of flour, we use one egg,\" she says. \"We make a crater in the center of the flour, and we break the eggs in the center and whisk briskly with a fork.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Battistini then starts mixing and scraping, and kneading the dough mostly with the palm of her hands — for at least 10 minutes. Once it's smooth and in the shape of a ball, she sets it aside to rest and starts on the filling, a mixture of prosciutto, mortadella, pork loin, eggs, Parmesan cheese and nutmeg.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Battistini then returns to the \u003cem>sfoglia\u003c/em>\u003cem>. \u003c/em>Her entire body sways, rhythmically and sensually, as she stretches the dough over and over again with a rolling pin until it forms a large paper-thin sheet, not more than 1 millimeter thick.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When the sheet is ready, Battistini starts cutting it in strips and then into little squares 3 centimeters per side. She puts a dab of filling in the center, folds the square into a triangle, presses it, then rolls it around her index finger — out comes the belly-button shaped dumpling.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like most Italians, Battistini has little patience for culinary experimentation and observes a rigid dogma in the kitchen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68920\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/tortelloni.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/tortelloni-290x217.jpg\" alt=\"Hand-made tortelloni – the larger size — are displayed at a grocery store in Castelfranco Emilia, Italy. Photo: Sylvia Poggioli/NPR\" width=\"290\" height=\"217\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-68920\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Hand-made tortelloni – the larger size — are displayed at a grocery store in Castelfranco Emilia, Italy. Photo: Sylvia Poggioli/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"The tortellino can \u003cem>only\u003c/em> be served in broth, that's what tradition teaches us. Of course, some people today serve it with butter, cream or tomato sauce, but then they're killing the taste of the filling.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once upon a time, a young man seeking a wife wanted first and foremost a master \u003cem>sfoglina\u003c/em>. But starting in the 1960s, women started working outside the home, and many no longer know how to make fresh egg pasta.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The art of making tortellino is endangered.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, a group of young graphic designers from Modena has produced \u003ca href=\"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewSoftware?id=676588559&mt=8\">an app\u003c/a> to safeguard the art of making tortellino, its history and the role in plays in the local culture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lucia Barbieri says it's aimed at teaching everyone how to make tortellini.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"For example, men are showing a keen interest in making tortellino,\" Barbieri says. \"When I get together with a group of friends to make pasta, the men are always most enthusiastic as they learn an art that always belonged to women alone.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile in Bologna, a new business opened last fall in the center of town — it's a tortellino-to-go joint, appropriately called Tortellino Bologna.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Open every day until midnight, it caters to students, office workers and even housewives. Customers can order online.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's the brainchild of Federico Spisani, who left his job in a bank to embark on an effort to safeguard his grandmother's culinary traditions with a contemporary twist. He has enlisted an army of \u003cem>sfogline\u003c/em> — several of whom are in their 80s — to prepare fresh pasta every day. Servings come in Styrofoam cups.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I try to unite the Italian quality of food — the best, in my opinion, in the world, — in a very fast-food way, cheap and fast,\" Spisani says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As we leave, two well-dressed, middle-aged women enter the shop circumspectly and, probably hoping nobody will recognize them, they order two servings of takeaway tortellino.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ciframe src=\"//instagram.com/p/dhMNP7OIxz/embed/\" width=\"612\" height=\"710\" frameborder=\"0\" scrolling=\"no\" allowtransparency=\"true\">\u003c/iframe>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68917\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/venus.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/venus.jpg\" alt=\"Even in Sandro Botticelli's painting <em>The Birth of Venus,</em> the goddess's belly resembles a plump, firm tortellino. Image: Wikimedia.org\" width=\"1120\" height=\"693\" class=\"size-full wp-image-68917\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Even in Sandro Botticelli's painting \u003cem>The Birth of Venus,\u003c/em> the goddess's belly resembles a plump, firm tortellino. Image: \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Sandro_Botticelli_-_La_nascita_di_Venere_-_Google_Art_Project_-_edited.jpg\">Wikimedia.org\u003c/a>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/08/27/210555719/tortellini-the-dumpling-inspired-by-venus-navel\">Morning Edition\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Post by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/2101034/sylvia-poggioli\">Sylvia Poggioli\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/08/27/210555719/tortellini-the-dumpling-inspired-by-venus-navel\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (98/27/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tortellini — small circles of rolled dough folded around a filling — are one of the most renowned members of the Italian pasta family. In the land of their birth, the region near the Italian city of Bologna, they're strictly served as broth-like dumplings.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Possibly no foodstuff in Italian cuisine is surrounded by so much history and lore.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68916\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/tortellino.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/tortellino.jpg\" alt=\"A young boy in Castelfranco Emilia, Italy, shows off a ceramic version of a tortellino during the town's annual celebration of the pasta's nameless inventor.\" width=\"290\" class=\"size-full wp-image-68916\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A young boy in Castelfranco Emilia, Italy, shows off a ceramic version of a tortellino during the town's annual celebration of the pasta's nameless inventor. Photo courtesy of \u003ca href=\"http://www.lacarbonarablog.it/\">La Carbonara blog\u003c/a>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Legend has it that Venus, the goddess of love, once stayed at the local tavern in the town of \u003ca href=\"https://maps.google.com/maps?q=castelfranco+emilia&ll=44.590467,11.052246&spn=5.664388,8.118896&hnear=Castelfranco+Emilia,+Provincia+di+Modena,+Emilia-Romagna,+Italy&gl=us&t=m&z=7\">Castelfranco Emilia\u003c/a>, halfway between the gastronomic giants Bologna and Modena.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The innkeeper spied on his guest through the keyhole of her room and got a partial glimpse of her. Struck by what he saw, he rushed to his kitchen, rolled out a sheet of fresh egg pasta and invented a shape inspired by Venus' navel.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Every year, Castelfranco Emilia celebrates its favorite son — the nameless inventor of the most sensual of all pasta shapes. Drummers, flag-throwers and local residents parade through town dressed in elaborate Renaissance costumes. On a makeshift stage, the legend of the peeping-Tom innkeeper is more or less re-enacted. The mood is festive and suitable for children.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Inspired by the sight of the divine navel,\" the master of ceremonies intones, \"our innkeeper invents the prestigious ... tortellino!\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While its origins may not be in antiquity, the first known tortellino recipe dates to 1570.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Gianni degli Angeli is the president of the San Nicola Association, which has taken on the task of safeguarding the local region's renowned culinary traditions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He says the No. 1 symbol of the local gastronomic culture is the tortellino. \"In times of poverty and hardship, we ate tortellini only at Christmas, Easter and at weddings, because the filling is made of costly ingredients like prosciutto and parmesan cheese,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tortellini are an integral part of family life in the Emilia region, says Massimo Bottura, chef and owner of a three-Michelin-star restaurant in Modena. \"I grew up under the kitchen table escaping my older brothers at my grandmother's, where flour fell on my feet.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Turning Flour And Eggs Into Tortellini\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nWomen from Castelfranco Emilia, Italy, demonstrate how they prepared 180 kilograms of tortellini for the 2012 London Olympics.\u003c/p>\n\u003cdiv class=\"single-video\">\u003ciframe width=\"600\" height=\"338\" src=\"http://www.npr.org/templates/event/embeddedVideo.php?storyId=210555719&mediaId=211357601\" frameborder=\"0\" scrolling=\"no\">\u003c/iframe>\u003c/div>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Source: Appeditor 2013 Tutti i diritti riservati\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Credit: Il Tortellino Progetto e realizzazione di Lucia Barbieri, Paola Busani e Monica Ropa\u003cbr>\n\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At an international gathering of famous chefs, he said that tortellini bring out a competitive spirit. \"Every family has its own recipe for tortellini, more Parmigiano, less Parmigiano,\" he says. \"I don't put prosciutto. I want mortadella. There are more discussions about tortellini in our family, in every Emilian family, than about politics.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Politics and soccer are way outranked in Emilia by the desire to eat well — \u003cem>very\u003c/em> well.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Making tortellini is an elaborate operation and has long been the domain of women known as \u003cem>sfogline\u003c/em>. The word derives from \u003cem>sfoglia,\u003c/em> the sheet of fresh egg pasta that is painstakingly rolled out by hand.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Grazia Battistini is 63 years old, and she's been a \u003cem>sfoglina\u003c/em> for some 50 years.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68919\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/sfoglina-tortellini.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/sfoglina-tortellini.jpg\" alt=\"Grazia Battistini, 63, has been been making tortellini as a <em>sfoglina </em>for about 50 years. A statue of the ideal tortellino shape sits in the foreground. Photo: Sylvia Poggioli/NPR\" width=\"290\" class=\"size-full wp-image-68919\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Grazia Battistini, 63, has been been making tortellini as a \u003cem>sfoglina \u003c/em>for about 50 years. A statue of the ideal tortellino shape sits in the foreground. Photo: Sylvia Poggioli/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"Grandmothers and mothers handed down the tradition to daughters and granddaughters. We started when we were 7 or 8 years old,\" she says. \"If we couldn't reach the tabletop, they gave us a stool to stand on. Little by little, we learned to roll and then to cut the pasta. We had to be careful not to cut our fingers.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For most of her life, Battistini says, making fresh egg pasta was an activity that involved the entire family. \"It was an occasion for socialization,\" she says. \"We were all together, men, women, children, everyone working together collectively.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Battistini gives us a demonstration on a wooden tabletop.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"For every 4 ounces of flour, we use one egg,\" she says. \"We make a crater in the center of the flour, and we break the eggs in the center and whisk briskly with a fork.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Battistini then starts mixing and scraping, and kneading the dough mostly with the palm of her hands — for at least 10 minutes. Once it's smooth and in the shape of a ball, she sets it aside to rest and starts on the filling, a mixture of prosciutto, mortadella, pork loin, eggs, Parmesan cheese and nutmeg.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Battistini then returns to the \u003cem>sfoglia\u003c/em>\u003cem>. \u003c/em>Her entire body sways, rhythmically and sensually, as she stretches the dough over and over again with a rolling pin until it forms a large paper-thin sheet, not more than 1 millimeter thick.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When the sheet is ready, Battistini starts cutting it in strips and then into little squares 3 centimeters per side. She puts a dab of filling in the center, folds the square into a triangle, presses it, then rolls it around her index finger — out comes the belly-button shaped dumpling.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like most Italians, Battistini has little patience for culinary experimentation and observes a rigid dogma in the kitchen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68920\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/tortelloni.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/tortelloni-290x217.jpg\" alt=\"Hand-made tortelloni – the larger size — are displayed at a grocery store in Castelfranco Emilia, Italy. Photo: Sylvia Poggioli/NPR\" width=\"290\" height=\"217\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-68920\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Hand-made tortelloni – the larger size — are displayed at a grocery store in Castelfranco Emilia, Italy. Photo: Sylvia Poggioli/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"The tortellino can \u003cem>only\u003c/em> be served in broth, that's what tradition teaches us. Of course, some people today serve it with butter, cream or tomato sauce, but then they're killing the taste of the filling.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once upon a time, a young man seeking a wife wanted first and foremost a master \u003cem>sfoglina\u003c/em>. But starting in the 1960s, women started working outside the home, and many no longer know how to make fresh egg pasta.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The art of making tortellino is endangered.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, a group of young graphic designers from Modena has produced \u003ca href=\"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewSoftware?id=676588559&mt=8\">an app\u003c/a> to safeguard the art of making tortellino, its history and the role in plays in the local culture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lucia Barbieri says it's aimed at teaching everyone how to make tortellini.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"For example, men are showing a keen interest in making tortellino,\" Barbieri says. \"When I get together with a group of friends to make pasta, the men are always most enthusiastic as they learn an art that always belonged to women alone.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile in Bologna, a new business opened last fall in the center of town — it's a tortellino-to-go joint, appropriately called Tortellino Bologna.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Open every day until midnight, it caters to students, office workers and even housewives. Customers can order online.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's the brainchild of Federico Spisani, who left his job in a bank to embark on an effort to safeguard his grandmother's culinary traditions with a contemporary twist. He has enlisted an army of \u003cem>sfogline\u003c/em> — several of whom are in their 80s — to prepare fresh pasta every day. Servings come in Styrofoam cups.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I try to unite the Italian quality of food — the best, in my opinion, in the world, — in a very fast-food way, cheap and fast,\" Spisani says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As we leave, two well-dressed, middle-aged women enter the shop circumspectly and, probably hoping nobody will recognize them, they order two servings of takeaway tortellino.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ciframe src=\"//instagram.com/p/dhMNP7OIxz/embed/\" width=\"612\" height=\"710\" frameborder=\"0\" scrolling=\"no\" allowtransparency=\"true\">\u003c/iframe>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "In the Beginning, There Were ... Dumplings?",
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"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68865\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 624px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/dumplings.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/dumplings.jpg\" alt=\"Buuz are the Mongolian take on the dumpling, and are typically filled with mutton or beef. Dumplings can be found across Europe and Asia and most are stuffed with whatever the locals like to eat. Photo: What'sAllThisThen/Flickr\" width=\"624\" height=\"467\" class=\"size-full wp-image-68865\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Buuz are the Mongolian take on the dumpling, and are typically filled with mutton or beef. Dumplings can be found across Europe and Asia and most are stuffed with whatever the locals like to eat. Photo: What'sAllThisThen/\u003ca href=\"http://www.flickr.com/photos/33092397@N00/\">Flickr\u003c/a>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/08/26/214833891/in-the-beginning-there-were-dumplings\">Morning Edition\u003c/a> [audio src=\"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2013/08/20130826_me_15.mp3\"] \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Post by Geoff Brumfiel, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/08/26/214833891/in-the-beginning-there-were-dumplings\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (8/26/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>From Warsaw to Wuhan, people around the world love dumplings. They're tasty little packages that can be made of any grain and stuffed with whatever the locals crave. But where did they come from?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>No one knows for sure, but \u003ca href=\"http://kenalbala.blogspot.com/\">Ken Albala\u003c/a>, a food historian at the University of the Pacific in Stockton, Calif., thinks dumplings have been around for a very long time. \"Almost without doubt, there are prehistoric dumplings,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Albala envisions the origins of the dumplings like this: To get nutrition from wild grains, hunter-gatherer humans had to cook them. Maybe they'd hollow out a log and fill it with water. Then they'd use hot stones from a fire to get the water boiling. They'd throw in the grain, he says. \"And I think it's a very fine line between putting in loose flour or meal, and getting a porridge out of it, or putting in lumps,\" and getting out dumplings.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Given a choice between gruel and dumplings, Albala says, many people would have chosen the dumpling. \"A dumpling, I don't know, it seems like more fun to me,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some of the earliest archaeological evidence for dumplings date from over a thousand years ago, says \u003ca href=\"http://www.fuchsiadunlop.com/\">Fuchsia Dunlop\u003c/a>, a food writer who specializes in Chinese cuisine. Archaeologists have found wooden bowls filled with dumplings from eighth century \u003ca href=\"http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/tang/hd_tang.htm\">Tang Dynasty\u003c/a> graves \"that look exactly the same as you'd see served in a restaurant in the area today,\" Dunlop says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dumplings were also around in Renaissance Europe, adds Albala. \"The recipes start showing up in the 15\u003csup>th\u003c/sup> century,\" he says, often under the heading \"gnocchi.\" \"Basically, you just take breadcrumbs, you add flour to it, sometimes cheese, sometimes herbs and egg to bind it.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ciframe src=\"//instagram.com/p/ded7wxOI48/embed/\" width=\"612\" height=\"710\" frameborder=\"0\" scrolling=\"no\" allowtransparency=\"true\">\u003c/iframe>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Today, dumplings exist across Europe and Asia. Many are called \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Manti_(dumpling)\">manti\u003c/a>, or some variation thereof. Most are stuffed with whatever the locals like to eat: In the far west of China, it's mutton, in the Himalayas \u003ca href=\"http://toastpoint.blogspot.com/2007/05/tibetan-momo-or-yak-dumplings.html\">it might be Yak meat\u003c/a>. In fact, says Dunlop, they're all pretty much the same as what the Chinese call \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wonton\">wontons\u003c/a> and the Italians call \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tortellini\">tortellini\u003c/a>. \"So the same methods, the same shapes of wrapped dumpling all the way from Italy, right across Asia to China and even Korea,\" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's the endless variation on the theme that make dumplings something to celebrate, says Scott Drewno, the executive chef at \u003ca href=\"http://www.wolfgangpuck.com/restaurants/fine-dining/3941\">The Source\u003c/a> restaurant in Washington, D.C.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>An NPR dumpling week? It's not enough, he says. There are a thousand different possible types of dumplings: different folds, different fillings, different sauces, he says. \"You could do a month if you wanted to.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>Chef Drewno's \u003c/strong>\u003cstrong>Pork Potstickers with Black Vinegar Dipping Sauce\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003ch5>\u003c/h5>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>For Potsticker Filling\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 lb pork butt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tb cure salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tb chopped garlic\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tb chopped ginger\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tb sugar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>¼ cup oyster sauce\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tsp black pepper\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tsp white pepper\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>¼ cup chopped cilantro\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>½ cup scallions, thinly sliced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tb sesame oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>¼ cup dried cherries, reconstituted, drained\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>¼ cup dried apricots, reconstituted, drained\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>¼ cup golden raisins, reconstituted, drained\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Instructions: Mix all ingredients in bowl. Place in freezer for 20 minutes. Grind in mixer with ¼ inch die. Mix in KitchenAid with paddle attachment.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>To Fill Potsickers\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Storebought potsticker skins\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Egg Yolks\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Instructions: \u003c/em>Place potsticker skin on table. Brush half with egg yolk. Place small amount of filling in center of skin. Fold skin in half, and pleat along top using thumb and forefinger. Press bottom gently against cutting board, then bend in crescent shape.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003c/strong>Place in boiling water, cook 3 to 4 minutes til fully cooked through. Drain.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place in hot sauté pan with peanut oil and cook on one side until golden brown. Remove and place on plate with black vinegar dipping sauce (recipe follows). Garnish with carrot strings, beet strings, and daikon strings.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>For Black Vinegar Dipping Sauce\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 tsp black vinegar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/8 cup chili oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 tsp sugar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tb soy sauce ( kikoman or yamasa )\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tb mushroom soy sauce\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>¼ cup rice vinegar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tb ginger, finely chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Instructions:\u003c/em> Place all ingredients in bowl and mix well. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68865\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 624px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/dumplings.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/dumplings.jpg\" alt=\"Buuz are the Mongolian take on the dumpling, and are typically filled with mutton or beef. Dumplings can be found across Europe and Asia and most are stuffed with whatever the locals like to eat. Photo: What'sAllThisThen/Flickr\" width=\"624\" height=\"467\" class=\"size-full wp-image-68865\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Buuz are the Mongolian take on the dumpling, and are typically filled with mutton or beef. Dumplings can be found across Europe and Asia and most are stuffed with whatever the locals like to eat. Photo: What'sAllThisThen/\u003ca href=\"http://www.flickr.com/photos/33092397@N00/\">Flickr\u003c/a>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/08/26/214833891/in-the-beginning-there-were-dumplings\">Morning Edition\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Post by Geoff Brumfiel, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/08/26/214833891/in-the-beginning-there-were-dumplings\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (8/26/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>From Warsaw to Wuhan, people around the world love dumplings. They're tasty little packages that can be made of any grain and stuffed with whatever the locals crave. But where did they come from?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>No one knows for sure, but \u003ca href=\"http://kenalbala.blogspot.com/\">Ken Albala\u003c/a>, a food historian at the University of the Pacific in Stockton, Calif., thinks dumplings have been around for a very long time. \"Almost without doubt, there are prehistoric dumplings,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Albala envisions the origins of the dumplings like this: To get nutrition from wild grains, hunter-gatherer humans had to cook them. Maybe they'd hollow out a log and fill it with water. Then they'd use hot stones from a fire to get the water boiling. They'd throw in the grain, he says. \"And I think it's a very fine line between putting in loose flour or meal, and getting a porridge out of it, or putting in lumps,\" and getting out dumplings.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Given a choice between gruel and dumplings, Albala says, many people would have chosen the dumpling. \"A dumpling, I don't know, it seems like more fun to me,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some of the earliest archaeological evidence for dumplings date from over a thousand years ago, says \u003ca href=\"http://www.fuchsiadunlop.com/\">Fuchsia Dunlop\u003c/a>, a food writer who specializes in Chinese cuisine. Archaeologists have found wooden bowls filled with dumplings from eighth century \u003ca href=\"http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/tang/hd_tang.htm\">Tang Dynasty\u003c/a> graves \"that look exactly the same as you'd see served in a restaurant in the area today,\" Dunlop says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dumplings were also around in Renaissance Europe, adds Albala. \"The recipes start showing up in the 15\u003csup>th\u003c/sup> century,\" he says, often under the heading \"gnocchi.\" \"Basically, you just take breadcrumbs, you add flour to it, sometimes cheese, sometimes herbs and egg to bind it.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ciframe src=\"//instagram.com/p/ded7wxOI48/embed/\" width=\"612\" height=\"710\" frameborder=\"0\" scrolling=\"no\" allowtransparency=\"true\">\u003c/iframe>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Today, dumplings exist across Europe and Asia. Many are called \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Manti_(dumpling)\">manti\u003c/a>, or some variation thereof. Most are stuffed with whatever the locals like to eat: In the far west of China, it's mutton, in the Himalayas \u003ca href=\"http://toastpoint.blogspot.com/2007/05/tibetan-momo-or-yak-dumplings.html\">it might be Yak meat\u003c/a>. In fact, says Dunlop, they're all pretty much the same as what the Chinese call \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wonton\">wontons\u003c/a> and the Italians call \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tortellini\">tortellini\u003c/a>. \"So the same methods, the same shapes of wrapped dumpling all the way from Italy, right across Asia to China and even Korea,\" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's the endless variation on the theme that make dumplings something to celebrate, says Scott Drewno, the executive chef at \u003ca href=\"http://www.wolfgangpuck.com/restaurants/fine-dining/3941\">The Source\u003c/a> restaurant in Washington, D.C.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>An NPR dumpling week? It's not enough, he says. There are a thousand different possible types of dumplings: different folds, different fillings, different sauces, he says. \"You could do a month if you wanted to.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>Chef Drewno's \u003c/strong>\u003cstrong>Pork Potstickers with Black Vinegar Dipping Sauce\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003ch5>\u003c/h5>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>For Potsticker Filling\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 lb pork butt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tb cure salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tb chopped garlic\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tb chopped ginger\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tb sugar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>¼ cup oyster sauce\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tsp black pepper\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tsp white pepper\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>¼ cup chopped cilantro\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>½ cup scallions, thinly sliced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tb sesame oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>¼ cup dried cherries, reconstituted, drained\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>¼ cup dried apricots, reconstituted, drained\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>¼ cup golden raisins, reconstituted, drained\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Instructions: Mix all ingredients in bowl. Place in freezer for 20 minutes. Grind in mixer with ¼ inch die. Mix in KitchenAid with paddle attachment.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>To Fill Potsickers\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Storebought potsticker skins\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Egg Yolks\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Instructions: \u003c/em>Place potsticker skin on table. Brush half with egg yolk. Place small amount of filling in center of skin. Fold skin in half, and pleat along top using thumb and forefinger. Press bottom gently against cutting board, then bend in crescent shape.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003c/strong>Place in boiling water, cook 3 to 4 minutes til fully cooked through. Drain.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place in hot sauté pan with peanut oil and cook on one side until golden brown. Remove and place on plate with black vinegar dipping sauce (recipe follows). Garnish with carrot strings, beet strings, and daikon strings.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>For Black Vinegar Dipping Sauce\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 tsp black vinegar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/8 cup chili oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 tsp sugar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tb soy sauce ( kikoman or yamasa )\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tb mushroom soy sauce\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>¼ cup rice vinegar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tb ginger, finely chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Instructions:\u003c/em> Place all ingredients in bowl and mix well. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Getting Past Pesto to Re-Imagine Basil",
"title": "Getting Past Pesto to Re-Imagine Basil",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68637\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/basil-full.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/basil-full.jpg\" alt=\"Basil. Photo: Serri Graslie\" width=\"1120\" height=\"629\" class=\"size-full wp-image-68637\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Basil. Photo: Serri Graslie\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Serri Graslie, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2013/08/21/200515210/getting-past-pesto-to-re-imagine-basil\">Kitchen Window at NPR Food\u003c/a> (8/21/2013)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Get recipes for \u003ca href=\"#gazpacho\">Beet Gazpacho With Basil Sour Cream And Basil Chips\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#peaches\">Prosciutto-Wrapped Peaches With Basil And Goat Cheese\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#sorbet\">Lemon Basil Sorbet\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#mojito\">Spicy Thai Basil Mojito\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"#soda\">Cherry Basil Soda\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Basil is a mega-celebrity of the herb world and has some of the same problems that come with fame. Known mostly for its starring role in pesto, it's recognized by many people primarily as an ingredient in other Italian dishes such as pastas and \u003cem>caprese\u003c/em> salads. But if it were up to basil, it might prefer to be recognized for its work in lesser-known cuisines and recipes (the indie films and off-Broadway plays, if you will), where it shines in a different way and brings a new dimension to food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Don't get me wrong — every summer, there's nothing I look forward to more than the first batch of pesto with straight-from-the-garden basil. It typifies the season for me and I could eat it every day. But to just stick with pesto is to typecast the herb and limit its potential.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I started to think about how I could get beyond pesto, I looked to dishes I already loved and narrowed down a few that might benefit from the addition of basil. There was never a bad experiment. It lends a lovely herbal undertone to everything from sorbets to sodas; it shines as brightly in Thai cuisine as it does when muddled in a drink or baked into chips. Just abide by one rule: Treat it gently. If left in something hot for too long, the color and flavor can take an unappetizing turn.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Basil is one of the more combinable herbs because of its unusual flavor profile. Culinary herbologist Susan Belsinger says if you dig into the makeup of the plant, you'll find that it's \"a little chemical factory.\" Three distinct chemical compounds are responsible for many basils' nearly indescribable flavor: Methyl chavicol creates the anise and licorice tones, linalool is the floral element and eugenol adds spice and clove notes. When all of those harmonize, basil becomes a perfectly nuanced herb that, as Belsinger told me, \"improves, accentuates and uplifts food.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In addition to being complex, basil is also an incredibly diverse plant — there are dozens of species, with more popping up all the time because it crosses easily. The most popular varieties in the U.S. are cultivars of sweet basil and include Genovese, lemon and cinnamon. You might have to head to your garden or farmers market to find other varieties like Thai, holy and dark opal, but they're available.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://vine.co/v/h7Wzu39FA5z\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once you've got some in hand, you should act quickly before it wilts. But if you won't use everything right away, Belsinger recommends keeping the stalks in a vase with water on the counter, instead of in the refrigerator. If you want to preserve that fresh flavor for months, she suggests making an herbal paste by roughly chopping the leaves in a food processor and adding enough olive oil to cover. Freeze it in plastic containers and scoop it out as needed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You also can save fresh basil by storing the leaves in salt, a traditional method of preserving foods across the world. Just layer the clean, dry leaves with kosher salt in a sealable jar and keep it in the fridge. When using the basil, which will last for a few months, omit the salt in the recipe. I've used leaves preserved this way on top of pizzas and baked into other goods.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>No matter what you do, it's hard to go wrong with basil. The leaves and flavors can vary wildly between species, but part of the fun of cooking with it is trying new varieties and combinations. So before the summer ends, consider casting your everyday basil in a new role. It just might surprise you.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"gazpacho\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Beet Gazpacho With Basil Sour Cream And Basil Chips\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>The gazpacho recipe is adapted from one that appeared in \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"http://www.gourmet.com/recipes/diaryofafoodie/2008/02/beetgazpacho\" target=\"_blank\">Gourmet Magazine\u003c/a>\u003cem> in 2008. Feel free to mix beet varieties.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68638\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/basil2.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/basil2.jpg\" alt=\"Beet Gazpacho With Basil Sour Cream And Basil Chips. Photo: Serri Graslie\" width=\"1120\" height=\"840\" class=\"size-full wp-image-68638\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Beet Gazpacho With Basil Sour Cream And Basil Chips. Photo: Serri Graslie\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 6 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Gazpacho\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 medium leek (white and pale-green parts only), halved lengthwise and coarsely chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 pounds beets, peeled and sliced 1/4-inch thick\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 large onion, diced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 large apple, peeled, cored, and sliced 1/4-inch thick\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/2 tablespoons olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6 cups water\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 tablespoons cider vinegar, or to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon thyme\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 bay leaf\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Salt and pepper, to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons Dijon mustard\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wash leek in a large bowl of water, agitating it, then lift out and drain well.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cook leek, beets, onion, and apple in oil in a large heavy pot over medium heat, stirring occasionally until the onions are softened. Add water, vinegar, thyme, bay leaf, salt and pepper and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat and cook at a bare simmer, uncovered, until vegetables and apple are tender. Discard bay leaf.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Add mustard before pureeing soup in batches until smooth (use caution when blending hot liquids). Chill.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Serve cold with basil sour cream and basil chips.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Basil Sour Cream\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2/3 cup sour cream or creme fraiche\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup packed fresh basil leaves, washed and dried\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pepper, to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Puree sour cream with basil in food processor until leaves are finely chopped. Mix in pepper. Can be made ahead of time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Basil Chips\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>12 fresh basil leaves, washed and dried\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon sea salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Cover sheet pan with tin foil. Mix olive oil and salt in a small bowl. Dredge each leaf in the mixture, allowing excess to drip off. Space 1-inch apart on the pan and roast for 8 minutes. They will be slightly darkened and very delicate.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"peaches\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Prosciutto-Wrapped Peaches With Basil And Goat Cheese\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This simple recipe makes an easy and delicious appetizer. Consider drizzling balsamic vinegar over the peaches before serving.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68639\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/basil3.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/basil3.jpg\" alt=\"Prosciutto-Wrapped Peaches With Basil And Goat Cheese. Photo: Serri Graslie\" width=\"1120\" height=\"839\" class=\"size-full wp-image-68639\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Prosciutto-Wrapped Peaches With Basil And Goat Cheese. Photo: Serri Graslie\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 12 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 large ripe peach, cut into 12 slices\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 ounces goat cheese\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 strips prosciutto, cut into quarters\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>12 medium-size fresh basil leaves, washed and dried\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Toothpicks\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Spoon two teaspoons of goat cheese onto a peach slice, add basil leaf and wrap with a prosciutto slice. Secure with a toothpick. Peaches can be made a few hours ahead of time\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"sorbet\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Lemon Basil Sorbet\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This sorbet is based on a recipe by \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"http://www.cuisinart.com/recipes/desserts/6025.html\" target=\"_blank\">Cuisinart\u003c/a>.\u003cem> Try experimenting with different types of basil — many of the varieties pair well with lemon.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68640\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 462px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/basil4.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/basil4.jpg\" alt=\"Lemon Basil Sorbet. Photo: Serri Graslie\" width=\"462\" height=\"618\" class=\"size-full wp-image-68640\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Lemon Basil Sorbet. Photo: Serri Graslie\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 10 1/2-cup servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cups water\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/2 cups granulated sugar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/2 tablespoons lemon zest\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cup packed fresh lemon basil, washed and dried\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cups fresh lemon juice\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Prepare a lemon simple syrup with the water, sugar and the lemon zest by combining all three in a medium saucepan set over medium-low heat. Cook mixture until the sugar is fully dissolved. Remove from heat. Once the simple syrup is ready, add the basil and a pinch of salt. Let the mixture steep for 30 minutes. Stir in the lemon juice. Cover and refrigerate 2 to 3 hours, or overnight. Strain the chilled mixture through a fine mesh strainer. Freeze in ice cream maker according to manufacturer's directions.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"mojito\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Spicy Thai Basil Mojito\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Feel free to use the chili of your choice for this drink — Thai chilis and serranos are both good options. You can also substitute galangal for the ginger in the syrup if you can find it; just use less of it because it's quite strong.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68641\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1047px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/basil5.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/basil5.jpg\" alt=\"Spicy Thai Basil Mojito. Photo: Serri Graslie\" width=\"1047\" height=\"1502\" class=\"size-full wp-image-68641\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Spicy Thai Basil Mojito. Photo: Serri Graslie\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 1 drink\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Mint Ginger Simple Syrup\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup fresh mint leaves, packed\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/2-inch nub of ginger peeled and chopped into 1/4-inch rounds\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup sugar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup water\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Combine ingredients in small saucepan. Simmer over low heat for 15 minutes. Remove from heat, strain and cool.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Mojito\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup Thai basil leaves, washed and dried\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/2 ounce white rum\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/2 ounce mint ginger simple syrup\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 Thai chili, sliced into 1/4-inch rounds\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lime\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Seltzer\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Muddle basil leaves in the bottom of a glass. Add rum, simple syrup, 1-2 pieces of chili and a squeeze of fresh lime juice. Add ice and top off with seltzer.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"soda\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Cherry Basil Soda\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>If you don't want to ferment this in a bottle, you can just add seltzer water to the syrup once it's cooled. If fermenting, do not use glass bottles because they could explode. \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"https://www.midwestsupplies.com/red-star-wine-yeasts-5-grams-pasteur-champagne.html?utm_medium=feeds&utm_source=google&gdftrk=gdfV24959_a_7c1306_a_7c6184_a_7c8805&gclid=CNfXwqL27rgCFYik4AodeisAfQ\" target=\"_blank\">Champagne yeast\u003c/a>\u003cem> and sanitizer can be found online and in home-brew/winemaking stores. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68642\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1026px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/basil6.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/basil6.jpg\" alt=\"Cherry Basil Soda. Photo: Serri Graslie\" width=\"1026\" height=\"1533\" class=\"size-full wp-image-68642\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cherry Basil Soda. Photo: Serri Graslie\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 12 12-ounce drinks\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Syrup\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 cups sweet cherries, pitted\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 2/3 cup sugar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup fresh packed basil, washed and dried\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lemon\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bottling\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>12 12-ounce plastic soda bottles and caps\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nonchlorine sanitizer, like iodine\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 teaspoon Champagne yeast\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup warm water\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Filtered water\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Combine cherries with sugar in a saucepan. Simmer until cherries begin to release their juices and soften. Remove from heat and blend mixture until smooth. Steep basil leaves in the syrup until it reaches 90 degrees. Strain using mesh strainer, pushing on solids to release liquid.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sanitize bottles and caps with a cleanser like those used in home-brewing. Combine Champagne yeast with warm water, allowing it to sit for 5 minutes. Spoon 1 teaspoon of the yeast mixture into each bottle. Add 3 1/2 tablespoons cherry syrup to each. Top off with filtered water, leaving 2 inches of head space at the top.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Store bottles in a warm, dark place. Check on them often by pressing on the bottles — they are fully carbonated when you can no longer make an indent (it usually takes a few days). Transfer the bottles to the refrigerator. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Serri Graslie is a producer for NPR.org and \u003cem>All Things Considered\u003c/em>. She \u003ca href=\"http://www.serrigraslie.com\" target=\"_blank\">writes\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/sgraslie\" target=\"_blank\">tweets\u003c/a> about food when she's not foisting it on other people. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Basil is a mega-celebrity of the herb world. But if it had a choice, it might prefer to be recognized for its work in lesser-known cuisines and recipes (the indie films and off-Broadway plays, if you will), where it shines in a different way and brings a new dimension to food.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68637\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/basil-full.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/basil-full.jpg\" alt=\"Basil. Photo: Serri Graslie\" width=\"1120\" height=\"629\" class=\"size-full wp-image-68637\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Basil. Photo: Serri Graslie\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Serri Graslie, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2013/08/21/200515210/getting-past-pesto-to-re-imagine-basil\">Kitchen Window at NPR Food\u003c/a> (8/21/2013)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Get recipes for \u003ca href=\"#gazpacho\">Beet Gazpacho With Basil Sour Cream And Basil Chips\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#peaches\">Prosciutto-Wrapped Peaches With Basil And Goat Cheese\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#sorbet\">Lemon Basil Sorbet\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#mojito\">Spicy Thai Basil Mojito\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"#soda\">Cherry Basil Soda\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Basil is a mega-celebrity of the herb world and has some of the same problems that come with fame. Known mostly for its starring role in pesto, it's recognized by many people primarily as an ingredient in other Italian dishes such as pastas and \u003cem>caprese\u003c/em> salads. But if it were up to basil, it might prefer to be recognized for its work in lesser-known cuisines and recipes (the indie films and off-Broadway plays, if you will), where it shines in a different way and brings a new dimension to food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Don't get me wrong — every summer, there's nothing I look forward to more than the first batch of pesto with straight-from-the-garden basil. It typifies the season for me and I could eat it every day. But to just stick with pesto is to typecast the herb and limit its potential.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I started to think about how I could get beyond pesto, I looked to dishes I already loved and narrowed down a few that might benefit from the addition of basil. There was never a bad experiment. It lends a lovely herbal undertone to everything from sorbets to sodas; it shines as brightly in Thai cuisine as it does when muddled in a drink or baked into chips. Just abide by one rule: Treat it gently. If left in something hot for too long, the color and flavor can take an unappetizing turn.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Basil is one of the more combinable herbs because of its unusual flavor profile. Culinary herbologist Susan Belsinger says if you dig into the makeup of the plant, you'll find that it's \"a little chemical factory.\" Three distinct chemical compounds are responsible for many basils' nearly indescribable flavor: Methyl chavicol creates the anise and licorice tones, linalool is the floral element and eugenol adds spice and clove notes. When all of those harmonize, basil becomes a perfectly nuanced herb that, as Belsinger told me, \"improves, accentuates and uplifts food.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In addition to being complex, basil is also an incredibly diverse plant — there are dozens of species, with more popping up all the time because it crosses easily. The most popular varieties in the U.S. are cultivars of sweet basil and include Genovese, lemon and cinnamon. You might have to head to your garden or farmers market to find other varieties like Thai, holy and dark opal, but they're available.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://vine.co/v/h7Wzu39FA5z\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once you've got some in hand, you should act quickly before it wilts. But if you won't use everything right away, Belsinger recommends keeping the stalks in a vase with water on the counter, instead of in the refrigerator. If you want to preserve that fresh flavor for months, she suggests making an herbal paste by roughly chopping the leaves in a food processor and adding enough olive oil to cover. Freeze it in plastic containers and scoop it out as needed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You also can save fresh basil by storing the leaves in salt, a traditional method of preserving foods across the world. Just layer the clean, dry leaves with kosher salt in a sealable jar and keep it in the fridge. When using the basil, which will last for a few months, omit the salt in the recipe. I've used leaves preserved this way on top of pizzas and baked into other goods.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>No matter what you do, it's hard to go wrong with basil. The leaves and flavors can vary wildly between species, but part of the fun of cooking with it is trying new varieties and combinations. So before the summer ends, consider casting your everyday basil in a new role. It just might surprise you.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"gazpacho\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Beet Gazpacho With Basil Sour Cream And Basil Chips\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>The gazpacho recipe is adapted from one that appeared in \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"http://www.gourmet.com/recipes/diaryofafoodie/2008/02/beetgazpacho\" target=\"_blank\">Gourmet Magazine\u003c/a>\u003cem> in 2008. Feel free to mix beet varieties.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68638\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/basil2.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/basil2.jpg\" alt=\"Beet Gazpacho With Basil Sour Cream And Basil Chips. Photo: Serri Graslie\" width=\"1120\" height=\"840\" class=\"size-full wp-image-68638\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Beet Gazpacho With Basil Sour Cream And Basil Chips. Photo: Serri Graslie\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 6 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Gazpacho\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 medium leek (white and pale-green parts only), halved lengthwise and coarsely chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 pounds beets, peeled and sliced 1/4-inch thick\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 large onion, diced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 large apple, peeled, cored, and sliced 1/4-inch thick\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/2 tablespoons olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6 cups water\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 tablespoons cider vinegar, or to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon thyme\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 bay leaf\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Salt and pepper, to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons Dijon mustard\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wash leek in a large bowl of water, agitating it, then lift out and drain well.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cook leek, beets, onion, and apple in oil in a large heavy pot over medium heat, stirring occasionally until the onions are softened. Add water, vinegar, thyme, bay leaf, salt and pepper and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat and cook at a bare simmer, uncovered, until vegetables and apple are tender. Discard bay leaf.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Add mustard before pureeing soup in batches until smooth (use caution when blending hot liquids). Chill.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Serve cold with basil sour cream and basil chips.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Basil Sour Cream\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2/3 cup sour cream or creme fraiche\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup packed fresh basil leaves, washed and dried\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pepper, to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Puree sour cream with basil in food processor until leaves are finely chopped. Mix in pepper. Can be made ahead of time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Basil Chips\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>12 fresh basil leaves, washed and dried\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon sea salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Cover sheet pan with tin foil. Mix olive oil and salt in a small bowl. Dredge each leaf in the mixture, allowing excess to drip off. Space 1-inch apart on the pan and roast for 8 minutes. They will be slightly darkened and very delicate.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"peaches\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Prosciutto-Wrapped Peaches With Basil And Goat Cheese\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This simple recipe makes an easy and delicious appetizer. Consider drizzling balsamic vinegar over the peaches before serving.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68639\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/basil3.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/basil3.jpg\" alt=\"Prosciutto-Wrapped Peaches With Basil And Goat Cheese. Photo: Serri Graslie\" width=\"1120\" height=\"839\" class=\"size-full wp-image-68639\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Prosciutto-Wrapped Peaches With Basil And Goat Cheese. Photo: Serri Graslie\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 12 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 large ripe peach, cut into 12 slices\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 ounces goat cheese\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 strips prosciutto, cut into quarters\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>12 medium-size fresh basil leaves, washed and dried\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Toothpicks\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Spoon two teaspoons of goat cheese onto a peach slice, add basil leaf and wrap with a prosciutto slice. Secure with a toothpick. Peaches can be made a few hours ahead of time\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"sorbet\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Lemon Basil Sorbet\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This sorbet is based on a recipe by \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"http://www.cuisinart.com/recipes/desserts/6025.html\" target=\"_blank\">Cuisinart\u003c/a>.\u003cem> Try experimenting with different types of basil — many of the varieties pair well with lemon.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68640\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 462px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/basil4.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/basil4.jpg\" alt=\"Lemon Basil Sorbet. Photo: Serri Graslie\" width=\"462\" height=\"618\" class=\"size-full wp-image-68640\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Lemon Basil Sorbet. Photo: Serri Graslie\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 10 1/2-cup servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cups water\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/2 cups granulated sugar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/2 tablespoons lemon zest\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cup packed fresh lemon basil, washed and dried\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cups fresh lemon juice\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Prepare a lemon simple syrup with the water, sugar and the lemon zest by combining all three in a medium saucepan set over medium-low heat. Cook mixture until the sugar is fully dissolved. Remove from heat. Once the simple syrup is ready, add the basil and a pinch of salt. Let the mixture steep for 30 minutes. Stir in the lemon juice. Cover and refrigerate 2 to 3 hours, or overnight. Strain the chilled mixture through a fine mesh strainer. Freeze in ice cream maker according to manufacturer's directions.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"mojito\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Spicy Thai Basil Mojito\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Feel free to use the chili of your choice for this drink — Thai chilis and serranos are both good options. You can also substitute galangal for the ginger in the syrup if you can find it; just use less of it because it's quite strong.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68641\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1047px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/basil5.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/basil5.jpg\" alt=\"Spicy Thai Basil Mojito. Photo: Serri Graslie\" width=\"1047\" height=\"1502\" class=\"size-full wp-image-68641\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Spicy Thai Basil Mojito. Photo: Serri Graslie\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 1 drink\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Mint Ginger Simple Syrup\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup fresh mint leaves, packed\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/2-inch nub of ginger peeled and chopped into 1/4-inch rounds\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup sugar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup water\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Combine ingredients in small saucepan. Simmer over low heat for 15 minutes. Remove from heat, strain and cool.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Mojito\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup Thai basil leaves, washed and dried\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/2 ounce white rum\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/2 ounce mint ginger simple syrup\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 Thai chili, sliced into 1/4-inch rounds\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lime\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Seltzer\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Muddle basil leaves in the bottom of a glass. Add rum, simple syrup, 1-2 pieces of chili and a squeeze of fresh lime juice. Add ice and top off with seltzer.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"soda\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Cherry Basil Soda\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>If you don't want to ferment this in a bottle, you can just add seltzer water to the syrup once it's cooled. If fermenting, do not use glass bottles because they could explode. \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"https://www.midwestsupplies.com/red-star-wine-yeasts-5-grams-pasteur-champagne.html?utm_medium=feeds&utm_source=google&gdftrk=gdfV24959_a_7c1306_a_7c6184_a_7c8805&gclid=CNfXwqL27rgCFYik4AodeisAfQ\" target=\"_blank\">Champagne yeast\u003c/a>\u003cem> and sanitizer can be found online and in home-brew/winemaking stores. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68642\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1026px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/basil6.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/basil6.jpg\" alt=\"Cherry Basil Soda. Photo: Serri Graslie\" width=\"1026\" height=\"1533\" class=\"size-full wp-image-68642\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cherry Basil Soda. Photo: Serri Graslie\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 12 12-ounce drinks\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Syrup\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 cups sweet cherries, pitted\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 2/3 cup sugar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup fresh packed basil, washed and dried\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lemon\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bottling\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>12 12-ounce plastic soda bottles and caps\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nonchlorine sanitizer, like iodine\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 teaspoon Champagne yeast\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup warm water\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Filtered water\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Combine cherries with sugar in a saucepan. Simmer until cherries begin to release their juices and soften. Remove from heat and blend mixture until smooth. Steep basil leaves in the syrup until it reaches 90 degrees. Strain using mesh strainer, pushing on solids to release liquid.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sanitize bottles and caps with a cleanser like those used in home-brewing. Combine Champagne yeast with warm water, allowing it to sit for 5 minutes. Spoon 1 teaspoon of the yeast mixture into each bottle. Add 3 1/2 tablespoons cherry syrup to each. Top off with filtered water, leaving 2 inches of head space at the top.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Store bottles in a warm, dark place. Check on them often by pressing on the bottles — they are fully carbonated when you can no longer make an indent (it usually takes a few days). Transfer the bottles to the refrigerator. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Serri Graslie is a producer for NPR.org and \u003cem>All Things Considered\u003c/em>. She \u003ca href=\"http://www.serrigraslie.com\" target=\"_blank\">writes\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/sgraslie\" target=\"_blank\">tweets\u003c/a> about food when she's not foisting it on other people. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "'Treme' Cookbook Captures the Flavor of A Show and A City",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/08/20/213493937/treme-cookbook-captures-the-flavor-of-a-show-and-a-city\">All Things Considered\u003c/a> [audio src=\"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/atc/2013/08/20130820_atc_18.mp3\"] \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Post by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/134002977/melissa-block\">Melissa Block\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/08/20/213493937/treme-cookbook-captures-the-flavor-of-a-show-and-a-city\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (8/20/2013)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68613\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/treme.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/treme.jpg\" alt=\"Treme: Stories and Recipes From the Heart of New Orleans, by Lois Eric Elie\" width=\"300\" height=\"387\" class=\"size-full wp-image-68613\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Treme: Stories and Recipes From the Heart of New Orleans, by Lois Eric Elie\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>If you find yourself craving New Orleans food, you could go there and melt in the sweltering heat for a dose of gumbo or praline bacon. Or you could settle in on your couch, as I've been doing, and torture yourself watching reruns of the HBO series \u003cem>Treme\u003c/em>. It's set in post-Katrina New Orleans and, along with the music, it puts the city's food on center stage.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, if you want to cook the food for yourself, there's \u003cem>Treme: Stories and Recipes From the Heart of New Orleans\u003c/em>. It's written by \u003ca href=\"http://www.loliselie.com/Main/mainframeset.html\">Lolis Eric Elie\u003c/a>, a writer and story editor on the show, who was born and raised in New Orleans.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The cookbook is divided into sections, each told in the voice of one of the characters — from Janette Desautel, the chef, to Antoine Batiste, the trombonist. Elie says he wanted them to have their own chapter so they wouldn't interrupt each other.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"These are the voices I hear when I walk down the street: 'Boy, you gotta soak your red beans the night before or otherwise they're going to take forever to cook. Or you need to put pickle meat in those beans — I don't know what all this vegetarian stuff is about,' \" Elie says. \"People talk about the fact that they're sitting in the supermarket line in New Orleans, and people say, 'How you gonna fix that? White beans and shrimp? What you gonna do with that?' I don't think that happens as much in other cities.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68614\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 948px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/treme2.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/treme2.jpg\" alt=\"Lolis Eric Elie is a New Orleans native and a story editor of HBO's Treme. Photo: Ed Anderson/Chronicle Books\" width=\"948\" height=\"948\" class=\"size-full wp-image-68614\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Lolis Eric Elie is a New Orleans native and a story editor of HBO's Treme. Photo: Ed Anderson/Chronicle Books\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The show includes real life musicians and cooks. When we see \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/ablogsupreme/2010/07/07/128359581/talking-to-the-musicians-of-treme\">Kermit Ruffins\u003c/a>, he's often cooking over a barbecue.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Elie says he called Ruffins to get his butter bean recipe, but he realized Ruffins wasn't going to write it down for him. Instead, he interviewed the musician to get the details.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For more, listen to my conversation with Elie on Tuesday's \u003cem>All Things Considered\u003c/em>. And while you wait for \u003cem>Treme\u003c/em> to start up again in December, Elie says you can do one thing: eat.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: Stuffed Mirliton\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>(from \u003cem>Treme\u003c/em> character Davina Lambreaux)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>8 medium mirlitons (chayotes)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3/4 pound medium shrimp, peeled and deveined\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon Basic Creole Seasoning Blend\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup unsalted butter, plus about 5 tablespoons\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 yellow onion, chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 celery stalks with leaves, finely diced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 large green bell pepper, seeded and chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup minced fresh flat-leaf parsley\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 tablespoons finely chopped green onions, white and tender green parts\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 1/2 tablespoons finely chopped garlic\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup very fine dried bread crumbs, plus about 5 tablespoons\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 large egg, lightly beaten\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Put the mirlitons in a 3-gallon pot, or two large stockpots, and cover with water. Bring to a boil over high heat. Cover the pot(s) and continue boiling, just until the mirlitons are fork tender, 45 minutes to 1 hour. Remove from the heat and, using a slotted spoon, immediately transfer the mirlitons to a colander to drain and cool.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once cool enough to handle, place the mirlitons on a cutting board or other flat surface. Cut them in half lengthwise. With a paring knife, shallowly trim away any spiny or blemished spots from the skin and tough pulp from the end nearest to the seed. Remove and discard the seed and use a small spoon to carefully remove the pulp from the inside of each half, leaving a 1/4- to 1/2-inch-thick shell. Drain the mirliton pulp in a colander, lightly squeezing it to release excess moisture, then chop the pulp. Set aside the pulp and shells.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preheat the oven to 350°F.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To make the stuffing: Season the shrimp with the Creole seasoning and cayenne, mixing well. Set aside. In a heavy 5-quart saucepan or large Dutch oven over low heat, melt the 1/2 cup of butter. Add the onions and cook until they start to soften, about 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Stir in the celery, bell pepper, parsley, green onions and garlic, and cook and stir for 2 minutes. Add the reserved mirliton pulp and cook for 6 minutes. Put 1/2 cup of the bread crumbs into a small bowl.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once the mirliton pulp mixture has cooked for 6 minutes, add 2 tablespoons of the reserved bread crumbs, mixing thoroughly, then continue adding 2 tablespoons at a time until you have added all of them, stirring thoroughly between additions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cook the mixture over low heat, until it is noticeably dryer but still moist, about 3 minutes, stirring as needed. Next, add the seasoned shrimp, salt, and pepper.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Continue cooking until the shrimp turn pink, about 1 minute more, stirring almost constantly. Remove from the heat and stir in the egg, blending well.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mound the stuffing in the 16 mirliton shells, using it all. Place the stuffed shells in a baking pan, such as a 12-by-17-inch baking pan, that will hold the shells in a single layer touching each other lightly to help support their shapes as they cook. Sprinkle about 1 teaspoon more bread crumbs evenly over the top of each stuffed shell and center a scant 1 teaspoon butter on the top of each. Cover tightly with aluminum foil and bake in the hot oven for 10 minutes. Remove the foil and continue baking until the tops are browned, about 1 hour more. Serve at once.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Note: To make ahead, prepare through the point of stuffing up to 1 day in advance. Cover the stuffed mirlitons tightly and refrigerate. Bake as directed when ready to serve.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 8 main-course servings or 16 appetizer servings.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: Microwave Pralines\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>(from \u003cem>Treme\u003c/em> character LaDonna Batiste-Williams)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 pound light brown sugar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup heavy (whipping) cream plus 1 to 3 teaspoons cream or milk for thinning batter\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons light corn syrup\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cups pecan halves, cut in half again (in other words, not too big or small)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature, cut into 4 pieces\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon vanilla extract\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68615\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 462px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/treme3.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/treme3.jpg\" alt=\"Microwave pralines are easier to make than stovetop pralines, and just as tasty. Photo: Ed Anderson/Chronicle Books\" width=\"462\" height=\"691\" class=\"size-full wp-image-68615\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Microwave pralines are easier to make than stovetop pralines, and just as tasty. Photo: Ed Anderson/Chronicle Books\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Line a heatproof surface like a countertop or 2 baking sheets with wax paper.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In an 8-cup microwave-safe glass measuring cup with a handle, combine the brown sugar, cream and corn syrup, mixing until all the sugar lumps are dissolved and the batter is well blended.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Position the measuring cup in the microwave so you can see how the batter inside measures; the batter will be at or near the 2 1/2-cup mark. Microwave on high without covering or stirring, watching it continuously, until the mixture slowly bubbles up to slightly higher than the 8-cup mark and then deflates to near the 4 1/2-cup mark, 10 to 16 minutes (depending on how quickly your microwave cooks). Do not open the microwave during the cooking process and, if in doubt, cook for less time, not more.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(If you want to make praline sauce instead of pralines, let the batter cook as directed until it has expanded to slightly over the 8-cup mark and then has slowly deflated just to the 7-cup mark. Use warm or at room temperature. Refrigerate the leftovers, tightly covered, for up to 1 week.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Carefully remove the very hot measuring cup from the microwave and, using a sturdy metal mixing spoon, gently stir in the pecans, butter and vanilla, being careful to not splash any of the hot mixture on your skin. Continue stirring until the mixture is noticeably less glossy, about 3 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Working quickly, and using two spoons, scoop rounded tablespoonfuls of the mixture onto the wax paper, about 1 inch apart and, using a second tablespoon to push the batter off the mixing spoon. If necessary, thin the batter with the remaining 1 to 3 teaspoons of cream as you reach the end of the batter and it thickens as it cools. Let the pralines cool to room temperature, about 20 minutes, then serve as soon as possible. Any leftovers can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 4 days.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 24 to 34 two-inch pralines, or 3 cups of praline sauce.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>From Lolis Eric Elie, \u003c/em>Treme: Stories and Recipes From the Heart of New Orleans\u003cem>, Chronicle Books (2013). Excerpted with permission.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Melissa Block talks with Lolis Eric Elie, a writer and editor behind the HBO series \u003cem>Treme\u003c/em> about a new cookbook written in the voices of the show's characters. Elie says it reflects both old New Orleans traditions and more recent influences.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/08/20/213493937/treme-cookbook-captures-the-flavor-of-a-show-and-a-city\">All Things Considered\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Post by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/134002977/melissa-block\">Melissa Block\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/08/20/213493937/treme-cookbook-captures-the-flavor-of-a-show-and-a-city\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (8/20/2013)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68613\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/treme.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/treme.jpg\" alt=\"Treme: Stories and Recipes From the Heart of New Orleans, by Lois Eric Elie\" width=\"300\" height=\"387\" class=\"size-full wp-image-68613\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Treme: Stories and Recipes From the Heart of New Orleans, by Lois Eric Elie\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>If you find yourself craving New Orleans food, you could go there and melt in the sweltering heat for a dose of gumbo or praline bacon. Or you could settle in on your couch, as I've been doing, and torture yourself watching reruns of the HBO series \u003cem>Treme\u003c/em>. It's set in post-Katrina New Orleans and, along with the music, it puts the city's food on center stage.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, if you want to cook the food for yourself, there's \u003cem>Treme: Stories and Recipes From the Heart of New Orleans\u003c/em>. It's written by \u003ca href=\"http://www.loliselie.com/Main/mainframeset.html\">Lolis Eric Elie\u003c/a>, a writer and story editor on the show, who was born and raised in New Orleans.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The cookbook is divided into sections, each told in the voice of one of the characters — from Janette Desautel, the chef, to Antoine Batiste, the trombonist. Elie says he wanted them to have their own chapter so they wouldn't interrupt each other.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"These are the voices I hear when I walk down the street: 'Boy, you gotta soak your red beans the night before or otherwise they're going to take forever to cook. Or you need to put pickle meat in those beans — I don't know what all this vegetarian stuff is about,' \" Elie says. \"People talk about the fact that they're sitting in the supermarket line in New Orleans, and people say, 'How you gonna fix that? White beans and shrimp? What you gonna do with that?' I don't think that happens as much in other cities.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68614\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 948px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/treme2.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/treme2.jpg\" alt=\"Lolis Eric Elie is a New Orleans native and a story editor of HBO's Treme. Photo: Ed Anderson/Chronicle Books\" width=\"948\" height=\"948\" class=\"size-full wp-image-68614\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Lolis Eric Elie is a New Orleans native and a story editor of HBO's Treme. Photo: Ed Anderson/Chronicle Books\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The show includes real life musicians and cooks. When we see \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/ablogsupreme/2010/07/07/128359581/talking-to-the-musicians-of-treme\">Kermit Ruffins\u003c/a>, he's often cooking over a barbecue.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Elie says he called Ruffins to get his butter bean recipe, but he realized Ruffins wasn't going to write it down for him. Instead, he interviewed the musician to get the details.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For more, listen to my conversation with Elie on Tuesday's \u003cem>All Things Considered\u003c/em>. And while you wait for \u003cem>Treme\u003c/em> to start up again in December, Elie says you can do one thing: eat.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: Stuffed Mirliton\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>(from \u003cem>Treme\u003c/em> character Davina Lambreaux)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>8 medium mirlitons (chayotes)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3/4 pound medium shrimp, peeled and deveined\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon Basic Creole Seasoning Blend\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup unsalted butter, plus about 5 tablespoons\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 yellow onion, chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 celery stalks with leaves, finely diced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 large green bell pepper, seeded and chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup minced fresh flat-leaf parsley\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 tablespoons finely chopped green onions, white and tender green parts\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 1/2 tablespoons finely chopped garlic\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup very fine dried bread crumbs, plus about 5 tablespoons\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 large egg, lightly beaten\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Put the mirlitons in a 3-gallon pot, or two large stockpots, and cover with water. Bring to a boil over high heat. Cover the pot(s) and continue boiling, just until the mirlitons are fork tender, 45 minutes to 1 hour. Remove from the heat and, using a slotted spoon, immediately transfer the mirlitons to a colander to drain and cool.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once cool enough to handle, place the mirlitons on a cutting board or other flat surface. Cut them in half lengthwise. With a paring knife, shallowly trim away any spiny or blemished spots from the skin and tough pulp from the end nearest to the seed. Remove and discard the seed and use a small spoon to carefully remove the pulp from the inside of each half, leaving a 1/4- to 1/2-inch-thick shell. Drain the mirliton pulp in a colander, lightly squeezing it to release excess moisture, then chop the pulp. Set aside the pulp and shells.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preheat the oven to 350°F.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To make the stuffing: Season the shrimp with the Creole seasoning and cayenne, mixing well. Set aside. In a heavy 5-quart saucepan or large Dutch oven over low heat, melt the 1/2 cup of butter. Add the onions and cook until they start to soften, about 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Stir in the celery, bell pepper, parsley, green onions and garlic, and cook and stir for 2 minutes. Add the reserved mirliton pulp and cook for 6 minutes. Put 1/2 cup of the bread crumbs into a small bowl.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once the mirliton pulp mixture has cooked for 6 minutes, add 2 tablespoons of the reserved bread crumbs, mixing thoroughly, then continue adding 2 tablespoons at a time until you have added all of them, stirring thoroughly between additions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cook the mixture over low heat, until it is noticeably dryer but still moist, about 3 minutes, stirring as needed. Next, add the seasoned shrimp, salt, and pepper.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Continue cooking until the shrimp turn pink, about 1 minute more, stirring almost constantly. Remove from the heat and stir in the egg, blending well.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mound the stuffing in the 16 mirliton shells, using it all. Place the stuffed shells in a baking pan, such as a 12-by-17-inch baking pan, that will hold the shells in a single layer touching each other lightly to help support their shapes as they cook. Sprinkle about 1 teaspoon more bread crumbs evenly over the top of each stuffed shell and center a scant 1 teaspoon butter on the top of each. Cover tightly with aluminum foil and bake in the hot oven for 10 minutes. Remove the foil and continue baking until the tops are browned, about 1 hour more. Serve at once.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Note: To make ahead, prepare through the point of stuffing up to 1 day in advance. Cover the stuffed mirlitons tightly and refrigerate. Bake as directed when ready to serve.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 8 main-course servings or 16 appetizer servings.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: Microwave Pralines\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>(from \u003cem>Treme\u003c/em> character LaDonna Batiste-Williams)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 pound light brown sugar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup heavy (whipping) cream plus 1 to 3 teaspoons cream or milk for thinning batter\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons light corn syrup\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cups pecan halves, cut in half again (in other words, not too big or small)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature, cut into 4 pieces\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon vanilla extract\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68615\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 462px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/treme3.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/treme3.jpg\" alt=\"Microwave pralines are easier to make than stovetop pralines, and just as tasty. Photo: Ed Anderson/Chronicle Books\" width=\"462\" height=\"691\" class=\"size-full wp-image-68615\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Microwave pralines are easier to make than stovetop pralines, and just as tasty. Photo: Ed Anderson/Chronicle Books\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Line a heatproof surface like a countertop or 2 baking sheets with wax paper.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In an 8-cup microwave-safe glass measuring cup with a handle, combine the brown sugar, cream and corn syrup, mixing until all the sugar lumps are dissolved and the batter is well blended.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Position the measuring cup in the microwave so you can see how the batter inside measures; the batter will be at or near the 2 1/2-cup mark. Microwave on high without covering or stirring, watching it continuously, until the mixture slowly bubbles up to slightly higher than the 8-cup mark and then deflates to near the 4 1/2-cup mark, 10 to 16 minutes (depending on how quickly your microwave cooks). Do not open the microwave during the cooking process and, if in doubt, cook for less time, not more.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(If you want to make praline sauce instead of pralines, let the batter cook as directed until it has expanded to slightly over the 8-cup mark and then has slowly deflated just to the 7-cup mark. Use warm or at room temperature. Refrigerate the leftovers, tightly covered, for up to 1 week.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Carefully remove the very hot measuring cup from the microwave and, using a sturdy metal mixing spoon, gently stir in the pecans, butter and vanilla, being careful to not splash any of the hot mixture on your skin. Continue stirring until the mixture is noticeably less glossy, about 3 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Working quickly, and using two spoons, scoop rounded tablespoonfuls of the mixture onto the wax paper, about 1 inch apart and, using a second tablespoon to push the batter off the mixing spoon. If necessary, thin the batter with the remaining 1 to 3 teaspoons of cream as you reach the end of the batter and it thickens as it cools. Let the pralines cool to room temperature, about 20 minutes, then serve as soon as possible. Any leftovers can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 4 days.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 24 to 34 two-inch pralines, or 3 cups of praline sauce.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>From Lolis Eric Elie, \u003c/em>Treme: Stories and Recipes From the Heart of New Orleans\u003cem>, Chronicle Books (2013). Excerpted with permission.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "In Maine, Lobster Comes Out of Its Shell",
"title": "In Maine, Lobster Comes Out of Its Shell",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68210\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/lobster-full.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-68210\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/lobster-full.jpg\" alt=\"Lobster. Photo: iStock\" width=\"1120\" height=\"628\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Lobster. Photo: iStock\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Laura McCandlish, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2013/08/14/211388320/in-maine-lobster-comes-out-of-its-shell\">Kitchen Window at NPR Food\u003c/a> (8/14/2013)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Get recipes for \u003ca href=\"#broth\">Creamy Maine Lobster Broth\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#moqueca\">Brazilian \u003cem>Moqueca De Peixe\u003c/em> With Lobster\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#rice\">Leah's Fried Rice With Lobster\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#banhmi\">Lobster Banh Mi\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"#rolls\">Vietnamese Salad Rolls With Lobster\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You might think a great benefit of living in Maine is unlimited access to fresh, cheap lobster. Most Mainers, however, probably eat less lobster in a year than tourists here consume in a week. Lobster bakes and boiling lobsters in those tall, speckled pots are grudgingly reserved for when company comes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As a less fussy alternative, we treat our guests to lobster rolls. Fortunately, a lobsterman and his wife run \u003ca href=\"http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g40541-d1932364-Reviews-Libby_s_Market-Brunswick_Maine.html\">a convenience store\u003c/a> just down the road from me in Brunswick where they make some of the best ones around. These days, though, it's getting to be more affordable to make your own lobster rolls. There were a record number of lobsters harvested in 2012, and the price for shelled meat dipped as low as $24 a pound. A lobster roll with a quarter pound of meat can cost $15.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.nydailynews.com/life-style/eats/nyc-lobster-rolls-top-daily-meal-list-article-1.1388612\">L\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://www.nydailynews.com/life-style/eats/nyc-lobster-rolls-top-daily-meal-list-article-1.1388612\">obster rolls are all the rage\u003c/a> this summer, everywhere from New York City food trucks to high-end establishments. It's even on the menu at \u003ca href=\"http://www.seriouseats.com/2012/08/cheap-lobster-rolls-maine-northeast-mclobster-fast-food-sandwiches.html\">many fast food restaurants\u003c/a> throughout New England. (What ever happened to that elusive \u003ca href=\"http://www.grubstreet.com/2013/07/mclobster-canada-mcdonalds.html\">McLobster\u003c/a> roll?)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fortunately,\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>you don't have to limit yourself to dressing lobster with heavy mayonnaise. My father, who has been coming to Belgrade Lakes since childhood (the same spot E.B. White extols in \u003ca href=\"http://www.freewebs.com/lanzbom/EBWhiteLakeEssay.pdf\">\"Once More to the Lake\")\u003c/a>, has experimented wildly in recent years. He has married lobster to tangy coconut milk in a Brazilian \u003cem>moqueca\u003c/em> seafood stew, a fusion dish he now enhances with Thai eggplant and green curry paste. Dad still makes rolls, too, with lobster in a lighter bath of butter. I tend to favor vinaigrette lobster salads, made with light rice wine vinegar and citrus juice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lobster lends itself to most cuisines, especially Vietnamese and Thai. There's hardly a Maine restaurant that doesn't have lobster on the menu. I've recently seen lobster tikka masala, lobster jambalaya and lobster-chanterelle mushroom tacos advertised. There are, of course, many Italian preparations such as lobster \u003cem>fra divalo\u003c/em>, lobster ravioli, truffled lobster mac 'n' cheese and lobster risotto, a dish made for early summer's fresh peas. This winter, I watched chef Tim O'Brien of Brunswick's Trattoria Athena and Enoteca Athena make stunning squid ink pasta purses stuffed with chopped lobster and fennel pollen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now that it's peak lobster season, I thought it was high time to cook up a load of live soft-shells (or shedders), to mark the conclusion of my first full year in Vacationland. I have managed to dodge the task until now. When my grandmother wanted lobster for her birthday, we asked the seafood counter to cook them. Nonny would meticulously pick the bodies for every last morsel, even devouring the green tomalley and coral roe. My vegetarian-leaning mother-in-law says she only cooked lobster once, when she live on Cape Cod. Those crustaceans\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>skittering about in the fridge, as if sensing their impending doom, unnerved her.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I now understand. It was stressful enough just transporting the lobsters home without having them die in the car from heat stroke. Then there was the question of whether to kill them first or boil them alive. I had the option of cutting up a live, raw lobster. Julia Child says the French do for \u003cem>bisque de homard\u003c/em>, and it's the preparation Eileen Yin-Fei Lo uses before she stir-fries lobster in black bean sauce in \u003cem>Mastering the Art of Chinese Cooking\u003c/em>. Then, there was the question of how long to cook them. Not to mention a smelly mess of shells to discard.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I made the humane decision to first briefly numb the lobsters in the freezer, then \u003ca href=\"http://www.finecooking.com/item/11058/video-how-to-kill-a-lobster\">kill them belly up\u003c/a>, with a plunge of a knife into the head, drawn down into the mid-section. I then consulted Thomas Keller's \"The French Laundry Cookbook\" for \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodandwine.com/articles/french-laundry-techniques-for-cooking-lobster\">tips on how to gently steep the lobster\u003c/a> so it can then be butter-poached, slow-roasted or chopped for a filling without toughening up. Keller steeps lobsters in boiling water (with 1/2 cup of white distilled vinegar added for every 8 quarts) for only 2 to 3 minutes, then returns the claws to the hot bath for another 5 minutes. I kept mine in longer, \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2012/02/08/dining/lobster-stew-with-a-pastry-lid-for-your-valentine.html\">per the 6-minute boil recommended\u003c/a> by former Chez Panisse chef David Tanis in his \u003cem>New York Times \u003c/em>column. \"It's essential to work with the 'steeped' lobsters while they are still hot,\" Thomas Keller says in \"The French Laundry.\" \"If they cool, the fat in the meat will congeal and the meat will be difficult to remove from the shell.\" Use gloves. Heavy-duty kitchen shears often work best for shelling.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lobster roll outfits only go after the meaty claws and tails, and don't waste time on the bodies. But it's worth reserving them at home for lobster stock. To save money, ask your seafood counter for culls, lobsters maybe missing a claw that are otherwise healthy. My waterfront\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>\u003ca href=\"http://harpswellmaine.org/lobster/\">source in nearby Harpswell\u003c/a> sold them to me for only $3.25 a pound.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's a rite of passage to cook live lobster, a way to make peace with where your food comes from. But buying shelled meat is an efficient treat. Now you can even cook with \u003ca href=\"http://www.shucksmaine.com/\">raw whole meat\u003c/a> separated from the shell by centrifuge.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So eat your Maine lobster now, while it's still plentiful. Though \"wild\" Maine lobster recently \u003ca href=\"http://www.msc.org/newsroom/news/maine-lobster-fishery-achieves-marine-stewardship-council-certification-maine-governor-makes-announcement-at-boston-seafood-show\">earned certification\u003c/a> as a sustainable, well-managed fishery, the state's iconic seafood, now practically \u003ca href=\"http://www.downeast.com/node/25499\">\"farmed\" as a monoculture, is increasingly vulnerable\u003c/a> to \u003ca href=\"http://www.bostonglobe.com/business/2013/08/11/lobster-shell-disease-creeping-northward-maine/7zkeynDtVu5ON5PhSuKR1N/story.html\" target=\"_blank\">disease\u003c/a> and other threats from climate change. Time to get cracking.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"broth\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Creamy Maine Lobster Broth\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>A side benefit of shelling lobster is simmering those meaty bodies down into a sweet stock or consomme. Maybe a seafood shack would even give you their discards for free. This recipe is adapted from the luxurious canape soup in Thomas Keller's \u003c/em>The French Laundry Cookbook\u003cem> (Artisan, 1999). The tarragon here is a natural pairing with lobster. I added boiled chunks of new potatoes, steamed corn cut off the cob and chopped scallions at the end to make a meatless chowder of sorts.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68212\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/lobster2.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-68212\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/lobster2.jpg\" alt=\"Creamy Lobster Stock. Photo: Laura McCandlish for NPR\" width=\"1120\" height=\"839\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Creamy Lobster Stock. Photo: Laura McCandlish/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 6 to 8 servings (2 cups)\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup neutral vegetable oil (I used grape-seed)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 lobster bodies, reserved after eating tail and claws (12 ounces total, cut into quarters)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/2 cups chopped tomatoes (I used canned)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup chopped carrots\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 bunch tarragon (1/2 ounce)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cups heavy cream\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5 small new potatoes, boiled and cut into chunks\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 ear of corn, steamed and kernels cut off cob\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup scallions, chopped for garnish\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Heat the oil in a large \u003cem>rondeau\u003c/em>, or deep straight-sided braising pan. Add the lobster shells and sear over medium-high heat for 1 to 2 minutes per side, until they turn red. (If your pot is not big enough to accomplish this easily, do it in 2 batches.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Add the tomatoes, carrots and tarragon, cover the shells and vegetables with water and bring to a boil. Skim off any impurities that rise to the top. Reduce the heat and simmer over low heat for 1 hour. Strain the stock through a large strainer or \u003cem>chinois \u003c/em>into a clean saucepan, smashing the lobster bodies with a wooden spoon to extract all the liquid.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Return the strained stock to the stove and simmer until it is reduced to 1 cup. Add the heavy cream, return to a simmer, and cook, skimming occasionally, until the broth is reduced to 2 cups. (At this point, you can cover and refrigerate the broth for several hours to chill, or for up to 3 days.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To serve, whisk the broth vigorously on a medium burner as you reheat it. Add the chunked potatoes and corn and stir in until warm. Pour the rich, hot broth into demitasse cups or other small mugs and garnish with scallions.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"moqueca\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Brazilian \u003cem>Moqueca De Peixe\u003c/em> With Lobster\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This recipe is from John Atkinson, my parents' neighbor in Belgrade Lakes. He uses small Maine shrimp instead of lobster. Any seafood combination is delicious here, so feel free to experiment. John says he first discovered moqueca at the Bargaco restaurant in Recife, Brazil, in 1989. My Brazilian brother-in-law Salo Coslovsky says there are endless variations on \u003c/em>moqueca \u003cem>— in Bahia, it must be garnished with red palm oil, while in Capixaba (in the state of Espirito Santo) no palm oil is used. Palm oil can be found at ethnic markets, high-end grocers and ordered from \u003ca href=\"http://amigofoods.com/\">AmigoFoods.com\u003c/a>. Brazilians also always serve \u003c/em>moqueca\u003cem> over rice, though I didn't. \"Other than that, it's a free for all,\" Salo says. My father has made a combination dish using this recipe and Ivy Manning's for zebra eggplant green curry in her \u003c/em>The Farm to Table Cookbook\u003cem> (Sasquatch Publishers 2008). The fragrant Thai basil here is a nod to that influence.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68213\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/lobster3.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-68213\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/lobster3.jpg\" alt=\"Lobster Moqueca. Photo: Laura McCandlish for NPR\" width=\"1120\" height=\"839\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Lobster Moqueca. Photo: Laura McCandlish/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes about 6 generous dinner servings (over rice)\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 pounds fresh or defrosted white fish fillets, cut into spoon-size chunks (I used hake; John recommends cod)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 pound shelled lobster meat (slightly undercooked if possible), cut into chunks\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 to 3 limes, juiced (or bottled lime juice)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Salt and black pepper, to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 medium onions, finely diced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 large green pepper, finely diced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 large red bell pepper, finely diced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 to 5 tablespoons cilantro, chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons parsley, chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 tablespoons basil, chopped (preferably Thai basil)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>14-ounce can diced tomatoes with juice (or use fresh ones)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper, or to taste (or substitute smoked paprika)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>14-ounce can coconut milk\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 tablespoons dendê (red palm) oil (optional)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Portuguese piri-piri or other hot pepper sauce, to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rice (optional)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place fish and lobster pieces in two separate shallow pans or bowls, coat with lime juice, sprinkle with salt and black pepper to taste, toss gently to combine, cover and refrigerate for about an hour.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Put olive oil in a large Dutch oven or wok over medium heat. Add onion and chopped bell peppers. Cook until the onions are nearly translucent, about 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Added chopped cilantro, parsley and basil (reserving some for garnish) and cook for 1 to 2 minutes. Add diced tomatoes and juice, salt, black pepper and cayenne pepper to taste.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When the vegetables begin to steam, add the marinated fish and cover for 10 to 12 minutes, until a low boil is established. Add marinated lobster chunks and cook another few minutes. Remove lid and gently stir in the coconut milk. Add red palm oil over the top (optional) and garnish with chopped cilantro and Thai basil. For a kick, shake on some piri piri or other hot sauce. Serve over rice (recommended).\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"rice\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Leah's Fried Rice With Lobster\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>In the midst of lobster recipe testing, my Chinese friend \u003ca href=\"http://www.bowdoin.edu/faculty/l/lzuo/\">Leah Zuo\u003c/a> brought her fried rice to a dinner party. As I dallied in the kitchen, my husband brilliantly suggested topping her rice with sautéed lobster. Thus, a great dish was born.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68214\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/lobster4.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-68214\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/lobster4.jpg\" alt=\"Lobster Fried Rice. Photo: Laura McCandlish/NPR\" width=\"1120\" height=\"839\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Lobster Fried Rice. Photo: Laura McCandlish/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes about 6 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 large eggs, beaten\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon cornstarch, dissolved into 2 tablespoons water\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 tablespoons grape-seed or peanut oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 medium onion, diced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup carrots, cubed and parboiled for 5 minutes\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup corn, freshly cut from cob, drained from can or defrosted\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup peas, defrosted or freshly shelled\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon garlic, minced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon ginger, minced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 cups cooked jasmine rice, cooled\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ground cumin or Moroccan seasoning blend, to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Minced Chinese pickled vegetable (available at Asian market) or kimchi, to taste (optional)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup minced scallions, green parts only\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup cilantro, chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 pound shelled lobster meat, chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons butter\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon fish sauce\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon soy sauce\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A quarter lemon or lime\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons Thai basil, chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Beat eggs with cornstarch-water solution. Add 1 tablespoon oil to wok or skillet and turn heat to high, covering hot surface with oil. Add egg and cook, folding over into an omelet, until done. Transfer with a spatula to a plate and cut into bite-size pieces.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Put a second tablespoon of oil in wok and return heat to high. Add onion and sauté about 10 minutes, until softened and beginning to brown. Add parboiled carrots, corn and peas to skillet and stir-fry with onions until hot, about a minute or 2. Transfer cooked vegetables to a bowl.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Put remaining oil in skillet, followed by garlic and ginger. Stir-fry briefly, then add the rice, bit by bit, breaking up any clumps.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Return vegetables and egg pieces to skillet and stir to integrate. Season with Moroccan spices or cumin, and if available, minced Chinese preserved vegetable (mustard plant stem) or kimchi to taste. Add salt and pepper if necessary. Remove from heat and stir in scallions and cilantro.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a separate pan, melt butter and add shelled lobster meat, heating until fully cooked. Season with fish sauce, soy sauce, a spritz of lemon or lime and Thai basil. Incorporate with fried rice and serve.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"banhmi\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Lobster Banh Mi\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Dan and Tina Libby of the humble Libby's Market in Brunswick, Maine, make some of the best lobster rolls around. Their formula: scissor-cut the freshly shelled meat into even chunks, coat with a thick and heavy mayo and pile onto griddled Italian sub rolls fresh from Sorella's Bakehouse in nearby Portland's East Bayside neighborhood. Former Bar Boulud chef Damian Sansonetti, who recently opened Blue Rooster Food Co. in the Old Port, also uses these choice Sorella's buns on his lobster roll banh mi. His feature crispy pork skin and a house mayo made with a rich lobster. Saigon Sisters in Chicago also is known for its lobster banh mi. Joe Ricchio,as a waiter back at Portland's original Food Factory Miyake, gave us a tip to always pair lobster with Japanese Kewpie mayonnaise, tangy with rice vinegar (never mind the MSG). It's widely available at Asian markets.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68215\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/lobster5.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-68215\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/lobster5.jpg\" alt=\"Lobster Banh Mi. Photo: Courtesy Of Blue Rooster Food Co\" width=\"1120\" height=\"839\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Lobster Banh Mi. Photo: Courtesy Of Blue Rooster Food Co\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 2 to 3 sandwiches\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 tablespoons Kewpie mayonnaise\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2011/02/06/133468797/spice-up-your-super-bowl-with-sriracha-sauce\">Sriracha sauce\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lime juice\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 pound lobster meat, cut into bite-size morsels\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 French baguette, two Italian sub rolls or split-top hot dog buns\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons butter, softened\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.simplyrecipes.com/recipes/vietnamese_daikon_and_carrot_pickles/\">Vietnamese daikon radish and carrot pickles\u003c/a>, to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 fresh jalapeno pepper, thinly sliced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Thai basil, cilantro, tarragon and/or mint, chopped, to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mix the mayo, Sriracha and lime juice together. Combine with lobster meat, stirring to coat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Butter bread and toast, face down in a cast iron pan. Layer with lobster salad, Vietnamese daikon-carrot pickles, sliced jalapenos, chopped herbs, salt and freshly ground pepper to taste.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"rolls\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Vietnamese Salad Rolls With Lobster\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>I had a magical compressed watermelon and butter-poached lobster tail rice paper roll at Tao Yuan's monthly dim sum brunch in Brunswick. Unfortunately, I lack the chamber vacuum sealer and sous vide cooker chef Cara Stadler employed in its creation. So here's a simpler version, inspired by a recent \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/recipes/1014829/Lobster-Summer-Rolls.html\">David Tanis recipe\u003c/a>. See this \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2012/09/25/161752021/a-roll-for-all-seasons-wrapped-in-rice-paper\">Kitchen Window on rice paper rolls for more inspiration\u003c/a>. You might prefer a lighter \u003c/em>nuoc cham\u003cem> fish sauce-based dipping sauce.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68216\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/lobster6.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-68216\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/lobster6.jpg\" alt=\"Vietnamese Salad Rolls with Lobster. Photo: Laura McCandlish/NPR\" width=\"1120\" height=\"839\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Vietnamese Salad Rolls with Lobster. Photo: Laura McCandlish/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 medium-sized rolls\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Rolls\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 pound cooked lobster claw meat, sliced in half length-wise\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 lime, zest grated and then juiced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon grated ginger\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon rice wine vinegar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fish sauce, to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons butter, melted in a pan\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Kewpie mayo, to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sriracha sauce, to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 ripe avocado, flesh cut into strips\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 ripe mango or 1 cup watermelon, flesh cut into strips\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cucumber, peeled and cut into julienne strips (preferably less seedy Asian variety)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rice paper wrappers (I used 8-inch rounds)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup basil leaves (preferably Thai)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup spearmint leaves\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup cilantro springs, destemmed\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup scallions, slivered\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons black sesame seeds (optional)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Dipping Sauce\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup cashew nut butter (or just use natural peanut butter)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/8 cup water\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons hoisin sauce\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lime juice\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 teaspoons soy sauce\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon maple syrup (or honey)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon Sriracha sauce\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon rice wine vinegar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Combine lobster meat with lime juice, zest, ginger, rice wine vinegar and a couple dashes of fish sauce in a bowl. Let marinate for at least 30 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Whisk together dipping sauce ingredients and set aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Prepare cucumber, avocado, mango and fresh herb leaves.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Melt butter in pan, turn off and add marinated lobster. Toss in warm butter to bring to room temperature. Add some Kewpie mayo and Sriracha to taste and toss again.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Individually dip rice paper wrappers in bowl of lukewarm water, then transfer to a towel-lined plate or cutting board. Use two wrappers for a sturdier roll.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lay one-quarter of the lobster mixture on the lower third of the softened wrapper, then lightly cover with herb leaves. Layer on cucumber, avocado and mango strips. Top with scallion slivers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Roll up burrito-style, folding in the left and right edges and pressing down to help them stick. Roll away from you, compressing the enclosed ingredients\u003cstrong>. \u003c/strong>Sprinkle rolls with black sesame seeds as an optional garnish\u003cstrong>. \u003c/strong>Eat whole (if you are lazy like me), or chill first and then slice in half before serving.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Laura McCandlish is a food writer and radio producer who recently relocated from Oregon back East to Brunswick, Maine. She writes a food column for \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://portland.thephoenix.com/Authors/LAURA-MCCANDLISH/\">The Portland Phoenix\u003c/a>\u003c/em> and is reporting on Maine's \u003ca href=\"http://smallfarms.cornell.edu/2013/03/27/reconnecting-refugee-farmers-to-their-agricultural-roots-3/\">Somali community\u003c/a> with support from a \u003ca href=\"http://newamericamedia.org/2013-nam-women-immigrants-fellowship.php\">New America Media Women Immigrants fellowship\u003c/a>. She previously reported for NPR member station \u003ca href=\"http://www.klcc.org/Feature.asp?FeatureID=2251\">KLCC\u003c/a> in Eugene, Ore, and contributed to \u003cem>The Oregonian's FOODday \u003c/em>section, \u003cem>Culinate\u003c/em> and \u003cem>Edible Portland\u003c/em>. She blogs at \u003ca href=\"http://baltimoregon.com/\" target=\"_blank\">baltimoregon.com\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "It's a rite of passage to cook live lobster, a way to make peace with where your food comes from. But buying shelled meat is an efficient treat. Now you can even cook with raw whole meat separated from the shell by centrifuge.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68210\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/lobster-full.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-68210\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/lobster-full.jpg\" alt=\"Lobster. Photo: iStock\" width=\"1120\" height=\"628\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Lobster. Photo: iStock\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Laura McCandlish, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2013/08/14/211388320/in-maine-lobster-comes-out-of-its-shell\">Kitchen Window at NPR Food\u003c/a> (8/14/2013)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Get recipes for \u003ca href=\"#broth\">Creamy Maine Lobster Broth\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#moqueca\">Brazilian \u003cem>Moqueca De Peixe\u003c/em> With Lobster\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#rice\">Leah's Fried Rice With Lobster\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#banhmi\">Lobster Banh Mi\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"#rolls\">Vietnamese Salad Rolls With Lobster\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You might think a great benefit of living in Maine is unlimited access to fresh, cheap lobster. Most Mainers, however, probably eat less lobster in a year than tourists here consume in a week. Lobster bakes and boiling lobsters in those tall, speckled pots are grudgingly reserved for when company comes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As a less fussy alternative, we treat our guests to lobster rolls. Fortunately, a lobsterman and his wife run \u003ca href=\"http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g40541-d1932364-Reviews-Libby_s_Market-Brunswick_Maine.html\">a convenience store\u003c/a> just down the road from me in Brunswick where they make some of the best ones around. These days, though, it's getting to be more affordable to make your own lobster rolls. There were a record number of lobsters harvested in 2012, and the price for shelled meat dipped as low as $24 a pound. A lobster roll with a quarter pound of meat can cost $15.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.nydailynews.com/life-style/eats/nyc-lobster-rolls-top-daily-meal-list-article-1.1388612\">L\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://www.nydailynews.com/life-style/eats/nyc-lobster-rolls-top-daily-meal-list-article-1.1388612\">obster rolls are all the rage\u003c/a> this summer, everywhere from New York City food trucks to high-end establishments. It's even on the menu at \u003ca href=\"http://www.seriouseats.com/2012/08/cheap-lobster-rolls-maine-northeast-mclobster-fast-food-sandwiches.html\">many fast food restaurants\u003c/a> throughout New England. (What ever happened to that elusive \u003ca href=\"http://www.grubstreet.com/2013/07/mclobster-canada-mcdonalds.html\">McLobster\u003c/a> roll?)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fortunately,\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>you don't have to limit yourself to dressing lobster with heavy mayonnaise. My father, who has been coming to Belgrade Lakes since childhood (the same spot E.B. White extols in \u003ca href=\"http://www.freewebs.com/lanzbom/EBWhiteLakeEssay.pdf\">\"Once More to the Lake\")\u003c/a>, has experimented wildly in recent years. He has married lobster to tangy coconut milk in a Brazilian \u003cem>moqueca\u003c/em> seafood stew, a fusion dish he now enhances with Thai eggplant and green curry paste. Dad still makes rolls, too, with lobster in a lighter bath of butter. I tend to favor vinaigrette lobster salads, made with light rice wine vinegar and citrus juice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lobster lends itself to most cuisines, especially Vietnamese and Thai. There's hardly a Maine restaurant that doesn't have lobster on the menu. I've recently seen lobster tikka masala, lobster jambalaya and lobster-chanterelle mushroom tacos advertised. There are, of course, many Italian preparations such as lobster \u003cem>fra divalo\u003c/em>, lobster ravioli, truffled lobster mac 'n' cheese and lobster risotto, a dish made for early summer's fresh peas. This winter, I watched chef Tim O'Brien of Brunswick's Trattoria Athena and Enoteca Athena make stunning squid ink pasta purses stuffed with chopped lobster and fennel pollen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now that it's peak lobster season, I thought it was high time to cook up a load of live soft-shells (or shedders), to mark the conclusion of my first full year in Vacationland. I have managed to dodge the task until now. When my grandmother wanted lobster for her birthday, we asked the seafood counter to cook them. Nonny would meticulously pick the bodies for every last morsel, even devouring the green tomalley and coral roe. My vegetarian-leaning mother-in-law says she only cooked lobster once, when she live on Cape Cod. Those crustaceans\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>skittering about in the fridge, as if sensing their impending doom, unnerved her.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I now understand. It was stressful enough just transporting the lobsters home without having them die in the car from heat stroke. Then there was the question of whether to kill them first or boil them alive. I had the option of cutting up a live, raw lobster. Julia Child says the French do for \u003cem>bisque de homard\u003c/em>, and it's the preparation Eileen Yin-Fei Lo uses before she stir-fries lobster in black bean sauce in \u003cem>Mastering the Art of Chinese Cooking\u003c/em>. Then, there was the question of how long to cook them. Not to mention a smelly mess of shells to discard.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I made the humane decision to first briefly numb the lobsters in the freezer, then \u003ca href=\"http://www.finecooking.com/item/11058/video-how-to-kill-a-lobster\">kill them belly up\u003c/a>, with a plunge of a knife into the head, drawn down into the mid-section. I then consulted Thomas Keller's \"The French Laundry Cookbook\" for \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodandwine.com/articles/french-laundry-techniques-for-cooking-lobster\">tips on how to gently steep the lobster\u003c/a> so it can then be butter-poached, slow-roasted or chopped for a filling without toughening up. Keller steeps lobsters in boiling water (with 1/2 cup of white distilled vinegar added for every 8 quarts) for only 2 to 3 minutes, then returns the claws to the hot bath for another 5 minutes. I kept mine in longer, \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2012/02/08/dining/lobster-stew-with-a-pastry-lid-for-your-valentine.html\">per the 6-minute boil recommended\u003c/a> by former Chez Panisse chef David Tanis in his \u003cem>New York Times \u003c/em>column. \"It's essential to work with the 'steeped' lobsters while they are still hot,\" Thomas Keller says in \"The French Laundry.\" \"If they cool, the fat in the meat will congeal and the meat will be difficult to remove from the shell.\" Use gloves. Heavy-duty kitchen shears often work best for shelling.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lobster roll outfits only go after the meaty claws and tails, and don't waste time on the bodies. But it's worth reserving them at home for lobster stock. To save money, ask your seafood counter for culls, lobsters maybe missing a claw that are otherwise healthy. My waterfront\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>\u003ca href=\"http://harpswellmaine.org/lobster/\">source in nearby Harpswell\u003c/a> sold them to me for only $3.25 a pound.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's a rite of passage to cook live lobster, a way to make peace with where your food comes from. But buying shelled meat is an efficient treat. Now you can even cook with \u003ca href=\"http://www.shucksmaine.com/\">raw whole meat\u003c/a> separated from the shell by centrifuge.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So eat your Maine lobster now, while it's still plentiful. Though \"wild\" Maine lobster recently \u003ca href=\"http://www.msc.org/newsroom/news/maine-lobster-fishery-achieves-marine-stewardship-council-certification-maine-governor-makes-announcement-at-boston-seafood-show\">earned certification\u003c/a> as a sustainable, well-managed fishery, the state's iconic seafood, now practically \u003ca href=\"http://www.downeast.com/node/25499\">\"farmed\" as a monoculture, is increasingly vulnerable\u003c/a> to \u003ca href=\"http://www.bostonglobe.com/business/2013/08/11/lobster-shell-disease-creeping-northward-maine/7zkeynDtVu5ON5PhSuKR1N/story.html\" target=\"_blank\">disease\u003c/a> and other threats from climate change. Time to get cracking.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"broth\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Creamy Maine Lobster Broth\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>A side benefit of shelling lobster is simmering those meaty bodies down into a sweet stock or consomme. Maybe a seafood shack would even give you their discards for free. This recipe is adapted from the luxurious canape soup in Thomas Keller's \u003c/em>The French Laundry Cookbook\u003cem> (Artisan, 1999). The tarragon here is a natural pairing with lobster. I added boiled chunks of new potatoes, steamed corn cut off the cob and chopped scallions at the end to make a meatless chowder of sorts.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68212\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/lobster2.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-68212\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/lobster2.jpg\" alt=\"Creamy Lobster Stock. Photo: Laura McCandlish for NPR\" width=\"1120\" height=\"839\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Creamy Lobster Stock. Photo: Laura McCandlish/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 6 to 8 servings (2 cups)\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup neutral vegetable oil (I used grape-seed)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 lobster bodies, reserved after eating tail and claws (12 ounces total, cut into quarters)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/2 cups chopped tomatoes (I used canned)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup chopped carrots\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 bunch tarragon (1/2 ounce)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cups heavy cream\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5 small new potatoes, boiled and cut into chunks\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 ear of corn, steamed and kernels cut off cob\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup scallions, chopped for garnish\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Heat the oil in a large \u003cem>rondeau\u003c/em>, or deep straight-sided braising pan. Add the lobster shells and sear over medium-high heat for 1 to 2 minutes per side, until they turn red. (If your pot is not big enough to accomplish this easily, do it in 2 batches.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Add the tomatoes, carrots and tarragon, cover the shells and vegetables with water and bring to a boil. Skim off any impurities that rise to the top. Reduce the heat and simmer over low heat for 1 hour. Strain the stock through a large strainer or \u003cem>chinois \u003c/em>into a clean saucepan, smashing the lobster bodies with a wooden spoon to extract all the liquid.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Return the strained stock to the stove and simmer until it is reduced to 1 cup. Add the heavy cream, return to a simmer, and cook, skimming occasionally, until the broth is reduced to 2 cups. (At this point, you can cover and refrigerate the broth for several hours to chill, or for up to 3 days.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To serve, whisk the broth vigorously on a medium burner as you reheat it. Add the chunked potatoes and corn and stir in until warm. Pour the rich, hot broth into demitasse cups or other small mugs and garnish with scallions.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"moqueca\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Brazilian \u003cem>Moqueca De Peixe\u003c/em> With Lobster\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This recipe is from John Atkinson, my parents' neighbor in Belgrade Lakes. He uses small Maine shrimp instead of lobster. Any seafood combination is delicious here, so feel free to experiment. John says he first discovered moqueca at the Bargaco restaurant in Recife, Brazil, in 1989. My Brazilian brother-in-law Salo Coslovsky says there are endless variations on \u003c/em>moqueca \u003cem>— in Bahia, it must be garnished with red palm oil, while in Capixaba (in the state of Espirito Santo) no palm oil is used. Palm oil can be found at ethnic markets, high-end grocers and ordered from \u003ca href=\"http://amigofoods.com/\">AmigoFoods.com\u003c/a>. Brazilians also always serve \u003c/em>moqueca\u003cem> over rice, though I didn't. \"Other than that, it's a free for all,\" Salo says. My father has made a combination dish using this recipe and Ivy Manning's for zebra eggplant green curry in her \u003c/em>The Farm to Table Cookbook\u003cem> (Sasquatch Publishers 2008). The fragrant Thai basil here is a nod to that influence.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68213\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/lobster3.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-68213\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/lobster3.jpg\" alt=\"Lobster Moqueca. Photo: Laura McCandlish for NPR\" width=\"1120\" height=\"839\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Lobster Moqueca. Photo: Laura McCandlish/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes about 6 generous dinner servings (over rice)\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 pounds fresh or defrosted white fish fillets, cut into spoon-size chunks (I used hake; John recommends cod)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 pound shelled lobster meat (slightly undercooked if possible), cut into chunks\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 to 3 limes, juiced (or bottled lime juice)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Salt and black pepper, to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 medium onions, finely diced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 large green pepper, finely diced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 large red bell pepper, finely diced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 to 5 tablespoons cilantro, chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons parsley, chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 tablespoons basil, chopped (preferably Thai basil)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>14-ounce can diced tomatoes with juice (or use fresh ones)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper, or to taste (or substitute smoked paprika)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>14-ounce can coconut milk\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 tablespoons dendê (red palm) oil (optional)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Portuguese piri-piri or other hot pepper sauce, to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rice (optional)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place fish and lobster pieces in two separate shallow pans or bowls, coat with lime juice, sprinkle with salt and black pepper to taste, toss gently to combine, cover and refrigerate for about an hour.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Put olive oil in a large Dutch oven or wok over medium heat. Add onion and chopped bell peppers. Cook until the onions are nearly translucent, about 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Added chopped cilantro, parsley and basil (reserving some for garnish) and cook for 1 to 2 minutes. Add diced tomatoes and juice, salt, black pepper and cayenne pepper to taste.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When the vegetables begin to steam, add the marinated fish and cover for 10 to 12 minutes, until a low boil is established. Add marinated lobster chunks and cook another few minutes. Remove lid and gently stir in the coconut milk. Add red palm oil over the top (optional) and garnish with chopped cilantro and Thai basil. For a kick, shake on some piri piri or other hot sauce. Serve over rice (recommended).\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"rice\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Leah's Fried Rice With Lobster\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>In the midst of lobster recipe testing, my Chinese friend \u003ca href=\"http://www.bowdoin.edu/faculty/l/lzuo/\">Leah Zuo\u003c/a> brought her fried rice to a dinner party. As I dallied in the kitchen, my husband brilliantly suggested topping her rice with sautéed lobster. Thus, a great dish was born.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68214\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/lobster4.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-68214\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/lobster4.jpg\" alt=\"Lobster Fried Rice. Photo: Laura McCandlish/NPR\" width=\"1120\" height=\"839\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Lobster Fried Rice. Photo: Laura McCandlish/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes about 6 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 large eggs, beaten\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon cornstarch, dissolved into 2 tablespoons water\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 tablespoons grape-seed or peanut oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 medium onion, diced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup carrots, cubed and parboiled for 5 minutes\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup corn, freshly cut from cob, drained from can or defrosted\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup peas, defrosted or freshly shelled\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon garlic, minced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon ginger, minced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 cups cooked jasmine rice, cooled\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ground cumin or Moroccan seasoning blend, to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Minced Chinese pickled vegetable (available at Asian market) or kimchi, to taste (optional)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup minced scallions, green parts only\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup cilantro, chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 pound shelled lobster meat, chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons butter\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon fish sauce\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon soy sauce\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A quarter lemon or lime\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons Thai basil, chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Beat eggs with cornstarch-water solution. Add 1 tablespoon oil to wok or skillet and turn heat to high, covering hot surface with oil. Add egg and cook, folding over into an omelet, until done. Transfer with a spatula to a plate and cut into bite-size pieces.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Put a second tablespoon of oil in wok and return heat to high. Add onion and sauté about 10 minutes, until softened and beginning to brown. Add parboiled carrots, corn and peas to skillet and stir-fry with onions until hot, about a minute or 2. Transfer cooked vegetables to a bowl.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Put remaining oil in skillet, followed by garlic and ginger. Stir-fry briefly, then add the rice, bit by bit, breaking up any clumps.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Return vegetables and egg pieces to skillet and stir to integrate. Season with Moroccan spices or cumin, and if available, minced Chinese preserved vegetable (mustard plant stem) or kimchi to taste. Add salt and pepper if necessary. Remove from heat and stir in scallions and cilantro.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a separate pan, melt butter and add shelled lobster meat, heating until fully cooked. Season with fish sauce, soy sauce, a spritz of lemon or lime and Thai basil. Incorporate with fried rice and serve.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"banhmi\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Lobster Banh Mi\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Dan and Tina Libby of the humble Libby's Market in Brunswick, Maine, make some of the best lobster rolls around. Their formula: scissor-cut the freshly shelled meat into even chunks, coat with a thick and heavy mayo and pile onto griddled Italian sub rolls fresh from Sorella's Bakehouse in nearby Portland's East Bayside neighborhood. Former Bar Boulud chef Damian Sansonetti, who recently opened Blue Rooster Food Co. in the Old Port, also uses these choice Sorella's buns on his lobster roll banh mi. His feature crispy pork skin and a house mayo made with a rich lobster. Saigon Sisters in Chicago also is known for its lobster banh mi. Joe Ricchio,as a waiter back at Portland's original Food Factory Miyake, gave us a tip to always pair lobster with Japanese Kewpie mayonnaise, tangy with rice vinegar (never mind the MSG). It's widely available at Asian markets.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68215\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/lobster5.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-68215\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/lobster5.jpg\" alt=\"Lobster Banh Mi. Photo: Courtesy Of Blue Rooster Food Co\" width=\"1120\" height=\"839\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Lobster Banh Mi. Photo: Courtesy Of Blue Rooster Food Co\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 2 to 3 sandwiches\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 tablespoons Kewpie mayonnaise\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2011/02/06/133468797/spice-up-your-super-bowl-with-sriracha-sauce\">Sriracha sauce\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lime juice\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 pound lobster meat, cut into bite-size morsels\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 French baguette, two Italian sub rolls or split-top hot dog buns\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons butter, softened\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.simplyrecipes.com/recipes/vietnamese_daikon_and_carrot_pickles/\">Vietnamese daikon radish and carrot pickles\u003c/a>, to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 fresh jalapeno pepper, thinly sliced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Thai basil, cilantro, tarragon and/or mint, chopped, to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mix the mayo, Sriracha and lime juice together. Combine with lobster meat, stirring to coat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Butter bread and toast, face down in a cast iron pan. Layer with lobster salad, Vietnamese daikon-carrot pickles, sliced jalapenos, chopped herbs, salt and freshly ground pepper to taste.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"rolls\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Vietnamese Salad Rolls With Lobster\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>I had a magical compressed watermelon and butter-poached lobster tail rice paper roll at Tao Yuan's monthly dim sum brunch in Brunswick. Unfortunately, I lack the chamber vacuum sealer and sous vide cooker chef Cara Stadler employed in its creation. So here's a simpler version, inspired by a recent \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/recipes/1014829/Lobster-Summer-Rolls.html\">David Tanis recipe\u003c/a>. See this \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2012/09/25/161752021/a-roll-for-all-seasons-wrapped-in-rice-paper\">Kitchen Window on rice paper rolls for more inspiration\u003c/a>. You might prefer a lighter \u003c/em>nuoc cham\u003cem> fish sauce-based dipping sauce.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68216\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/lobster6.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-68216\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/lobster6.jpg\" alt=\"Vietnamese Salad Rolls with Lobster. Photo: Laura McCandlish/NPR\" width=\"1120\" height=\"839\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Vietnamese Salad Rolls with Lobster. Photo: Laura McCandlish/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 medium-sized rolls\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Rolls\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 pound cooked lobster claw meat, sliced in half length-wise\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 lime, zest grated and then juiced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon grated ginger\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon rice wine vinegar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fish sauce, to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons butter, melted in a pan\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Kewpie mayo, to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sriracha sauce, to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 ripe avocado, flesh cut into strips\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 ripe mango or 1 cup watermelon, flesh cut into strips\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cucumber, peeled and cut into julienne strips (preferably less seedy Asian variety)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rice paper wrappers (I used 8-inch rounds)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup basil leaves (preferably Thai)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup spearmint leaves\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup cilantro springs, destemmed\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup scallions, slivered\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons black sesame seeds (optional)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Dipping Sauce\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup cashew nut butter (or just use natural peanut butter)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/8 cup water\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons hoisin sauce\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lime juice\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 teaspoons soy sauce\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon maple syrup (or honey)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon Sriracha sauce\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon rice wine vinegar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Combine lobster meat with lime juice, zest, ginger, rice wine vinegar and a couple dashes of fish sauce in a bowl. Let marinate for at least 30 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Whisk together dipping sauce ingredients and set aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Prepare cucumber, avocado, mango and fresh herb leaves.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Melt butter in pan, turn off and add marinated lobster. Toss in warm butter to bring to room temperature. Add some Kewpie mayo and Sriracha to taste and toss again.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Individually dip rice paper wrappers in bowl of lukewarm water, then transfer to a towel-lined plate or cutting board. Use two wrappers for a sturdier roll.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lay one-quarter of the lobster mixture on the lower third of the softened wrapper, then lightly cover with herb leaves. Layer on cucumber, avocado and mango strips. Top with scallion slivers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Roll up burrito-style, folding in the left and right edges and pressing down to help them stick. Roll away from you, compressing the enclosed ingredients\u003cstrong>. \u003c/strong>Sprinkle rolls with black sesame seeds as an optional garnish\u003cstrong>. \u003c/strong>Eat whole (if you are lazy like me), or chill first and then slice in half before serving.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Laura McCandlish is a food writer and radio producer who recently relocated from Oregon back East to Brunswick, Maine. She writes a food column for \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://portland.thephoenix.com/Authors/LAURA-MCCANDLISH/\">The Portland Phoenix\u003c/a>\u003c/em> and is reporting on Maine's \u003ca href=\"http://smallfarms.cornell.edu/2013/03/27/reconnecting-refugee-farmers-to-their-agricultural-roots-3/\">Somali community\u003c/a> with support from a \u003ca href=\"http://newamericamedia.org/2013-nam-women-immigrants-fellowship.php\">New America Media Women Immigrants fellowship\u003c/a>. She previously reported for NPR member station \u003ca href=\"http://www.klcc.org/Feature.asp?FeatureID=2251\">KLCC\u003c/a> in Eugene, Ore, and contributed to \u003cem>The Oregonian's FOODday \u003c/em>section, \u003cem>Culinate\u003c/em> and \u003cem>Edible Portland\u003c/em>. She blogs at \u003ca href=\"http://baltimoregon.com/\" target=\"_blank\">baltimoregon.com\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "A Field Guide to Foraging: KQED's Forum",
"title": "A Field Guide to Foraging: KQED's Forum",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68006\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1280px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/foraged.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-68006\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/foraged.jpg\" alt=\"A display of wild foods gathered by Chef Kory Stewart and foraging expert Connie Green at the third annual Wild Foods dinner on June 6.\" width=\"1280\" height=\"960\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A display of wild foods gathered by Chef Kory Stewart and foraging expert Connie Green at the third annual Wild Foods dinner on June 6.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Urban foraging is not a new topic for Bay Area Bites readers. It's actually not that new, period, since foraging is one of the original ways people found food. But, what was once the domain of cave people is now the hottest trend for hip food-lovers. And, the Bay Area has become \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/06/07/modern-day-food-foraging-comes-to-san-francisco-2/\" target=\"_blank\">the hot spot\u003c/a> for top chefs crafting five-star meals from what they found in the wild.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, there's always more to learn about the best places to find foraged food, the best recipes for your finds and the secrets of crafting delicious, healthy meals from what others might ignore.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Friday afternoon, \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/a/forum/R201308091000\" target=\"_blank\">KQED Forum\u003c/a> host Rachael Myrow sat down with \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/11/20/the-california-report-the-fine-art-of-foraging/\" target=\"_blank\">Connie Green\u003c/a>, author of \u003cem>The Wild Table\u003c/em> and owner of Wine Forest Wild Foods; \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/02/22/bay-area-foraging-with-hank-shaw/\" target=\"_blank\">Hank Shaw\u003c/a>, author of \u003cem>Hunt, Gather, Cook: Finding the Forgotten Feast\u003c/em>; Iso Rabins, founder of ForageSF, Forage Kitchen, Underground Market and Batch Made Market; Kirk Lombard, fisherman and forager, and operater of \"Sea Forager,\" a tour business; and \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/06/07/modern-day-food-foraging-comes-to-san-francisco-2/\" target=\"_blank\">Kory Stewart\u003c/a>, chef at Americano Restaurant and Bar.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cobject width=\"335\" height=\"85\" classid=\"clsid:d27cdb6e-ae6d-11cf-96b8-444553540000\" codebase=\"http://download.macromedia.com/pub/shockwave/cabs/flash/swflash.cab#version=6,0,40,0\">\u003cparam name=\"flashvars\" value=\"file=http://www.kqed.org/radio/archives/R201308091000.xml\">\u003cparam name=\"src\" value=\"http://www.kqed.org/assets/flash/kqedplayer.swf\">\u003cembed width=\"335\" height=\"85\" type=\"application/x-shockwave-flash\" src=\"http://www.kqed.org/assets/flash/kqedplayer.swf\" flashvars=\"file=http://www.kqed.org/radio/archives/R201308091000.xml\">\u003c/embed>\u003c/object>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Before you head out on your own, \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/04/23/want-to-forage-in-your-city-theres-a-map-for-that/\" target=\"_blank\">check out the Falling Fruit app\u003c/a> that identifies locations around the world where fruits and vegetables are available for the taking. Clicking on pinpoints on the map brings up information like what can be found there and when the best time to forage is. The map is done through crowd-sourcing, so if you find any particularly good spots, consider sharing the information with your fellow foragers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Along with foraging tips, the guests on KQED's Forum also shared recipes for your foraged food, including a nettle soup recipe from Rabins. Nettles, Rabins says, are nutritious and easy to find around here.\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>River nettle (diocea) is much more intense in both sting and flavor. Whereas farm (urens) will give you a bit of a prick, river nettle will bite you, a searing pain that, instead of going away after several hours of throbbing, actually seems to turn into a general numbness/tingle for as much as 48 hours (hint: use vinegar to get rid of the sting). If you're using it in soup, river nettles are really the best. The intensity comes through in the soup in all the best ways.\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>See the rest of the recipes -- mushroom soup, candy cap crowned sidecar, Turkish washcloth raspberry chocolate pudding and candy cap mushroom ice cream sandwich -- \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/a/forum/R201308091000\" target=\"_blank\">on the Forum page\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Recipe for Nettle Soup:\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Food:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>-1 lb nettle (collect it, or you can often find it at farmers markets in season)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>-1 lb russet potatoes\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>-1 lb leek\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>-6 Cups chicken stock\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>-2 Tbsp butter\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>-Salt/pepper to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>-Small tub crème fraiche\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Equipment:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>-Heavy gloves (seriously. If you're using the thin latex kind, so popular in restaurant kitchens and the nether regions of the airport security line, wear double, or even triple. A good thick pair of dishwashing gloves works perfectly)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>-Heavy bottomed soup pot\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>-Stand up or hand (immersion) blender\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>-Wooden spoon\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>-Scissors\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>-mixing bowl\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1.First, you've got to deal with the nettle. Put a pot of salted water on to boil. With your gloves on, use scissors to cut the leaves from the woody stem, discarding any brown leaves. Wash under cold water. Get a mixing bowl, and fill it with iced and salted water. Throw nettle into boiling water for 5 minutes, drain, then immediately place in ice water. This is called blanching and shocking. The boil gets rid of the nettle sting, and the ice water helps it retain its vibrant green color. Once they're cold, squeeze water out of nettles, and reserve.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Cut off the white section of the leeks, slice them lengthwise, and wash very well. Tons of dirt likes to get stuck in leeks, and it's the last thing you want in your soup. After they're clean, chop them and reserve.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Dice potatoes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Melt butter in pot over medium heat, making sure not to let it burn. When it begins to bubble, throw in the leeks, cook 5 minutes (if they start to brown, turn down the flame, you want them to sweat). Add potatoes, cook 5 minutes. Add nettle, cook 5 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5. Pour in chicken stock, mix, turn up heat until it comes to a boil, then turn down to a simmer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6. Allow to simmer 20-30 minutes, until potatoes are tender. Turn off heat and either blend with you immersion blender, or if using a stand-up, blend in batches with a ventilated blender (take that little plastic thing out of the middle of the lid), and a towel on top. With the danger sounding too much like you dad, BE CAREFUL! Hot soup on the face is not fun.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>7. When its blended, add two spoonsfulls of crème fraiche, mix. Serve hot with a drizzle of crème fraiche on top. This soup will taste quite ?green?. Crème fraiche will balance it to your liking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>8. Enjoy! And regal your friends with your daring tales of nettle foraging, they'll be impressed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_67983\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/ForagedMushrooms.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-67983\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/ForagedMushrooms.jpg\" alt=\"Foraged mushrooms. Photo: kattebelletje/Flickr\" width=\"640\" height=\"360\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Foraged mushrooms. Photo: kattebelletje/Flickr\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Foraging experts Connie Green, Hank Shaw, Iso Rabins, Kirk Lombard and Kory Stewart sat down with KQED's Forum on Friday to talk about the basics of urban foraging. Listen and learn before testing our their recipes.",
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"description": "Foraging experts Connie Green, Hank Shaw, Iso Rabins, Kirk Lombard and Kory Stewart sat down with KQED's Forum on Friday to talk about the basics of urban foraging. Listen and learn before testing our their recipes.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68006\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1280px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/foraged.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-68006\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/foraged.jpg\" alt=\"A display of wild foods gathered by Chef Kory Stewart and foraging expert Connie Green at the third annual Wild Foods dinner on June 6.\" width=\"1280\" height=\"960\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A display of wild foods gathered by Chef Kory Stewart and foraging expert Connie Green at the third annual Wild Foods dinner on June 6.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Urban foraging is not a new topic for Bay Area Bites readers. It's actually not that new, period, since foraging is one of the original ways people found food. But, what was once the domain of cave people is now the hottest trend for hip food-lovers. And, the Bay Area has become \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/06/07/modern-day-food-foraging-comes-to-san-francisco-2/\" target=\"_blank\">the hot spot\u003c/a> for top chefs crafting five-star meals from what they found in the wild.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, there's always more to learn about the best places to find foraged food, the best recipes for your finds and the secrets of crafting delicious, healthy meals from what others might ignore.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Friday afternoon, \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/a/forum/R201308091000\" target=\"_blank\">KQED Forum\u003c/a> host Rachael Myrow sat down with \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/11/20/the-california-report-the-fine-art-of-foraging/\" target=\"_blank\">Connie Green\u003c/a>, author of \u003cem>The Wild Table\u003c/em> and owner of Wine Forest Wild Foods; \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/02/22/bay-area-foraging-with-hank-shaw/\" target=\"_blank\">Hank Shaw\u003c/a>, author of \u003cem>Hunt, Gather, Cook: Finding the Forgotten Feast\u003c/em>; Iso Rabins, founder of ForageSF, Forage Kitchen, Underground Market and Batch Made Market; Kirk Lombard, fisherman and forager, and operater of \"Sea Forager,\" a tour business; and \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/06/07/modern-day-food-foraging-comes-to-san-francisco-2/\" target=\"_blank\">Kory Stewart\u003c/a>, chef at Americano Restaurant and Bar.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cobject width=\"335\" height=\"85\" classid=\"clsid:d27cdb6e-ae6d-11cf-96b8-444553540000\" codebase=\"http://download.macromedia.com/pub/shockwave/cabs/flash/swflash.cab#version=6,0,40,0\">\u003cparam name=\"flashvars\" value=\"file=http://www.kqed.org/radio/archives/R201308091000.xml\">\u003cparam name=\"src\" value=\"http://www.kqed.org/assets/flash/kqedplayer.swf\">\u003cembed width=\"335\" height=\"85\" type=\"application/x-shockwave-flash\" src=\"http://www.kqed.org/assets/flash/kqedplayer.swf\" flashvars=\"file=http://www.kqed.org/radio/archives/R201308091000.xml\">\u003c/embed>\u003c/object>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Before you head out on your own, \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/04/23/want-to-forage-in-your-city-theres-a-map-for-that/\" target=\"_blank\">check out the Falling Fruit app\u003c/a> that identifies locations around the world where fruits and vegetables are available for the taking. Clicking on pinpoints on the map brings up information like what can be found there and when the best time to forage is. The map is done through crowd-sourcing, so if you find any particularly good spots, consider sharing the information with your fellow foragers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Along with foraging tips, the guests on KQED's Forum also shared recipes for your foraged food, including a nettle soup recipe from Rabins. Nettles, Rabins says, are nutritious and easy to find around here.\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>River nettle (diocea) is much more intense in both sting and flavor. Whereas farm (urens) will give you a bit of a prick, river nettle will bite you, a searing pain that, instead of going away after several hours of throbbing, actually seems to turn into a general numbness/tingle for as much as 48 hours (hint: use vinegar to get rid of the sting). If you're using it in soup, river nettles are really the best. The intensity comes through in the soup in all the best ways.\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>See the rest of the recipes -- mushroom soup, candy cap crowned sidecar, Turkish washcloth raspberry chocolate pudding and candy cap mushroom ice cream sandwich -- \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/a/forum/R201308091000\" target=\"_blank\">on the Forum page\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Recipe for Nettle Soup:\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Food:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>-1 lb nettle (collect it, or you can often find it at farmers markets in season)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>-1 lb russet potatoes\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>-1 lb leek\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>-6 Cups chicken stock\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>-2 Tbsp butter\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>-Salt/pepper to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>-Small tub crème fraiche\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Equipment:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>-Heavy gloves (seriously. If you're using the thin latex kind, so popular in restaurant kitchens and the nether regions of the airport security line, wear double, or even triple. A good thick pair of dishwashing gloves works perfectly)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>-Heavy bottomed soup pot\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>-Stand up or hand (immersion) blender\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>-Wooden spoon\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>-Scissors\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>-mixing bowl\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1.First, you've got to deal with the nettle. Put a pot of salted water on to boil. With your gloves on, use scissors to cut the leaves from the woody stem, discarding any brown leaves. Wash under cold water. Get a mixing bowl, and fill it with iced and salted water. Throw nettle into boiling water for 5 minutes, drain, then immediately place in ice water. This is called blanching and shocking. The boil gets rid of the nettle sting, and the ice water helps it retain its vibrant green color. Once they're cold, squeeze water out of nettles, and reserve.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Cut off the white section of the leeks, slice them lengthwise, and wash very well. Tons of dirt likes to get stuck in leeks, and it's the last thing you want in your soup. After they're clean, chop them and reserve.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Dice potatoes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Melt butter in pot over medium heat, making sure not to let it burn. When it begins to bubble, throw in the leeks, cook 5 minutes (if they start to brown, turn down the flame, you want them to sweat). Add potatoes, cook 5 minutes. Add nettle, cook 5 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5. Pour in chicken stock, mix, turn up heat until it comes to a boil, then turn down to a simmer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6. Allow to simmer 20-30 minutes, until potatoes are tender. Turn off heat and either blend with you immersion blender, or if using a stand-up, blend in batches with a ventilated blender (take that little plastic thing out of the middle of the lid), and a towel on top. With the danger sounding too much like you dad, BE CAREFUL! Hot soup on the face is not fun.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>7. When its blended, add two spoonsfulls of crème fraiche, mix. Serve hot with a drizzle of crème fraiche on top. This soup will taste quite ?green?. Crème fraiche will balance it to your liking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>8. Enjoy! And regal your friends with your daring tales of nettle foraging, they'll be impressed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_67983\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/ForagedMushrooms.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-67983\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/ForagedMushrooms.jpg\" alt=\"Foraged mushrooms. Photo: kattebelletje/Flickr\" width=\"640\" height=\"360\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Foraged mushrooms. Photo: kattebelletje/Flickr\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"amazon": "https://music.amazon.com/podcasts/26099305-72af-4542-9dde-ac1807fe36d5/kqed-s-the-california-report",
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},
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"id": "californiareportmagazine",
"title": "The California Report Magazine",
"tagline": "Your state, your stories",
"info": "Every week, The California Report Magazine takes you on a road trip for the ears: to visit the places and meet the people who make California unique. The in-depth storytelling podcast from the California Report.",
"airtime": "FRI 4:30pm-5pm, 6:30pm-7pm, 11pm-11:30pm",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "/californiareportmagazine",
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"order": 10
},
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM3NjkwNjk1OTAz",
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},
"city-arts": {
"id": "city-arts",
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"info": "A one-hour radio program to hear celebrated writers, artists and thinkers address contemporary ideas and values, often discussing the creative process. Please note: tapes or transcripts are not available",
"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/05/cityartsandlecture-300x300.jpg",
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"airtime": "SUN 1pm-2pm, TUE 10pm, WED 1am",
"meta": {
"site": "news",
"source": "City Arts & Lectures"
},
"link": "https://www.cityarts.net",
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"rss": "https://www.cityarts.net/feed/"
}
},
"closealltabs": {
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"info": "Close All Tabs breaks down how digital culture shapes our world through thoughtful insights and irreverent humor.",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "/podcasts/closealltabs",
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"order": 1
},
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"title": "Code Switch / Life Kit",
"info": "\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em>, which listeners will hear in the first part of the hour, has fearless and much-needed conversations about race. Hosted by journalists of color, the show tackles the subject of race head-on, exploring how it impacts every part of society — from politics and pop culture to history, sports and more.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em>, which will be in the second part of the hour, guides you through spaces and feelings no one prepares you for — from finances to mental health, from workplace microaggressions to imposter syndrome, from relationships to parenting. The show features experts with real world experience and shares their knowledge. Because everyone needs a little help being human.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/510312/codeswitch\">\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/lifekit\">\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />",
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"id": "commonwealth-club",
"title": "Commonwealth Club of California Podcast",
"info": "The Commonwealth Club of California is the nation's oldest and largest public affairs forum. As a non-partisan forum, The Club brings to the public airwaves diverse viewpoints on important topics. The Club's weekly radio broadcast - the oldest in the U.S., dating back to 1924 - is carried across the nation on public radio stations and is now podcasting. Our website archive features audio of our recent programs, as well as selected speeches from our long and distinguished history. This podcast feed is usually updated twice a week and is always un-edited.",
"airtime": "THU 10pm, FRI 1am",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Commonwealth-Club-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
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"meta": {
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"source": "Commonwealth Club of California"
},
"link": "/radio/program/commonwealth-club",
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cDovL3d3dy5jb21tb253ZWFsdGhjbHViLm9yZy9hdWRpby9wb2RjYXN0L3dlZWtseS54bWw",
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},
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"id": "forum",
"title": "Forum",
"tagline": "The conversation starts here",
"info": "KQED’s live call-in program discussing local, state, national and international issues, as well as in-depth interviews.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 9am-11am, 10pm-11pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Forum-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
"imageAlt": "KQED Forum with Mina Kim and Alexis Madrigal",
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"source": "kqed",
"order": 9
},
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM5NTU3MzgxNjMz",
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"id": "freakonomics-radio",
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"info": "Freakonomics Radio is a one-hour award-winning podcast and public-radio project hosted by Stephen Dubner, with co-author Steve Levitt as a regular guest. It is produced in partnership with WNYC.",
"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/05/freakonomicsRadio.png",
"officialWebsiteLink": "http://freakonomics.com/",
"airtime": "SUN 1am-2am, SAT 3pm-4pm",
"meta": {
"site": "radio",
"source": "WNYC"
},
"link": "/radio/program/freakonomics-radio",
"subscribe": {
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/freakonomics-radio/id354668519",
"tuneIn": "https://tunein.com/podcasts/WNYC-Podcasts/Freakonomics-Radio-p272293/",
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},
"fresh-air": {
"id": "fresh-air",
"title": "Fresh Air",
"info": "Hosted by Terry Gross, \u003cem>Fresh Air from WHYY\u003c/em> is the Peabody Award-winning weekday magazine of contemporary arts and issues. One of public radio's most popular programs, Fresh Air features intimate conversations with today's biggest luminaries.",
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=214089682&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory",
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"here-and-now": {
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"info": "A live production of NPR and WBUR Boston, in collaboration with stations across the country, Here & Now reflects the fluid world of news as it's happening in the middle of the day, with timely, in-depth news, interviews and conversation. Hosted by Robin Young, Jeremy Hobson and Tonya Mosley.",
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"rss": "https://feeds.npr.org/510051/podcast.xml"
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},
"hidden-brain": {
"id": "hidden-brain",
"title": "Hidden Brain",
"info": "Shankar Vedantam uses science and storytelling to reveal the unconscious patterns that drive human behavior, shape our choices and direct our relationships.",
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"airtime": "SUN 7pm-8pm",
"meta": {
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"source": "NPR"
},
"link": "/radio/program/hidden-brain",
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},
"how-i-built-this": {
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"title": "How I Built This with Guy Raz",
"info": "Guy Raz dives into the stories behind some of the world's best known companies. How I Built This weaves a narrative journey about innovators, entrepreneurs and idealists—and the movements they built.",
"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/05/howIBuiltThis.png",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.npr.org/podcasts/510313/how-i-built-this",
"airtime": "SUN 7:30pm-8pm",
"meta": {
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"source": "npr"
},
"link": "/radio/program/how-i-built-this",
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"npr": "https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/3zxy",
"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/how-i-built-this-with-guy-raz/id1150510297?mt=2",
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},
"hyphenacion": {
"id": "hyphenacion",
"title": "Hyphenación",
"tagline": "Where conversation and cultura meet",
"info": "What kind of no sabo word is Hyphenación? For us, it’s about living within a hyphenation. Like being a third-gen Mexican-American from the Texas border now living that Bay Area Chicano life. Like Xorje! Each week we bring together a couple of hyphenated Latinos to talk all about personal life choices: family, careers, relationships, belonging … everything is on the table. ",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2025/03/Hyphenacion_FinalAssets_PodcastTile.png",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "/podcasts/hyphenacion",
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"order": 15
},
"link": "/podcasts/hyphenacion",
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"spotify": "https://open.spotify.com/show/2p3Fifq96nw9BPcmFdIq0o?si=39209f7b25774f38",
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},
"jerrybrown": {
"id": "jerrybrown",
"title": "The Political Mind of Jerry Brown",
"tagline": "Lessons from a lifetime in politics",
"info": "The Political Mind of Jerry Brown brings listeners the wisdom of the former Governor, Mayor, and presidential candidate. Scott Shafer interviewed Brown for more than 40 hours, covering the former governor's life and half-century in the political game – and Brown has some lessons he'd like to share. ",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/The-Political-Mind-of-Jerry-Brown-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "/podcasts/jerrybrown",
"meta": {
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"source": "kqed",
"order": 18
},
"link": "/podcasts/jerrybrown",
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/id1492194549",
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}
},
"latino-usa": {
"id": "latino-usa",
"title": "Latino USA",
"airtime": "MON 1am-2am, SUN 6pm-7pm",
"info": "Latino USA, the radio journal of news and culture, is the only national, English-language radio program produced from a Latino perspective.",
"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/latinoUsa.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "http://latinousa.org/",
"meta": {
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"source": "npr"
},
"link": "/radio/program/latino-usa",
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=79681317&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory",
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"rss": "https://feeds.npr.org/510016/podcast.xml"
}
},
"marketplace": {
"id": "marketplace",
"title": "Marketplace",
"info": "Our flagship program, helmed by Kai Ryssdal, examines what the day in money delivered, through stories, conversations, newsworthy numbers and more. Updated Monday through Friday at about 3:30 p.m. PT.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 4pm-4:30pm, MON-WED 6:30pm-7pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Marketplace-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.marketplace.org/",
"meta": {
"site": "news",
"source": "American Public Media"
},
"link": "/radio/program/marketplace",
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"rss": "https://feeds.publicradio.org/public_feeds/marketplace-pm/rss/rss"
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},
"masters-of-scale": {
"id": "masters-of-scale",
"title": "Masters of Scale",
"info": "Masters of Scale is an original podcast in which LinkedIn co-founder and Greylock Partner Reid Hoffman sets out to describe and prove theories that explain how great entrepreneurs take their companies from zero to a gazillion in ingenious fashion.",
"airtime": "Every other Wednesday June 12 through October 16 at 8pm (repeats Thursdays at 2am)",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "https://mastersofscale.com/",
"meta": {
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"source": "WaitWhat"
},
"link": "/radio/program/masters-of-scale",
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"apple": "http://mastersofscale.app.link/",
"rss": "https://rss.art19.com/masters-of-scale"
}
},
"mindshift": {
"id": "mindshift",
"title": "MindShift",
"tagline": "A podcast about the future of learning and how we raise our kids",
"info": "The MindShift podcast explores the innovations in education that are shaping how kids learn. Hosts Ki Sung and Katrina Schwartz introduce listeners to educators, researchers, parents and students who are developing effective ways to improve how kids learn. We cover topics like how fed-up administrators are developing surprising tactics to deal with classroom disruptions; how listening to podcasts are helping kids develop reading skills; the consequences of overparenting; and why interdisciplinary learning can engage students on all ends of the traditional achievement spectrum. This podcast is part of the MindShift education site, a division of KQED News. KQED is an NPR/PBS member station based in San Francisco. You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Mindshift-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
"imageAlt": "KQED MindShift: How We Will Learn",
"officialWebsiteLink": "/mindshift/",
"meta": {
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"source": "kqed",
"order": 12
},
"link": "/podcasts/mindshift",
"subscribe": {
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM1NzY0NjAwNDI5",
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"stitcher": "https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/kqed/stories-teachers-share",
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}
},
"morning-edition": {
"id": "morning-edition",
"title": "Morning Edition",
"info": "\u003cem>Morning Edition\u003c/em> takes listeners around the country and the world with multi-faceted stories and commentaries every weekday. Hosts Steve Inskeep, David Greene and Rachel Martin bring you the latest breaking news and features to prepare you for the day.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 3am-9am",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Morning-Edition-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.npr.org/programs/morning-edition/",
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"link": "/radio/program/morning-edition"
},
"onourwatch": {
"id": "onourwatch",
"title": "On Our Watch",
"tagline": "Deeply-reported investigative journalism",
"info": "For decades, the process for how police police themselves has been inconsistent – if not opaque. In some states, like California, these proceedings were completely hidden. After a new police transparency law unsealed scores of internal affairs files, our reporters set out to examine these cases and the shadow world of police discipline. On Our Watch brings listeners into the rooms where officers are questioned and witnesses are interrogated to find out who this system is really protecting. Is it the officers, or the public they've sworn to serve?",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/On-Our-Watch-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
"imageAlt": "On Our Watch from NPR and KQED",
"officialWebsiteLink": "/podcasts/onourwatch",
"meta": {
"site": "news",
"source": "kqed",
"order": 11
},
"link": "/podcasts/onourwatch",
"subscribe": {
"apple": "https://podcasts.apple.com/podcast/id1567098962",
"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5ucHIub3JnLzUxMDM2MC9wb2RjYXN0LnhtbD9zYz1nb29nbGVwb2RjYXN0cw",
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}
},
"on-the-media": {
"id": "on-the-media",
"title": "On The Media",
"info": "Our weekly podcast explores how the media 'sausage' is made, casts an incisive eye on fluctuations in the marketplace of ideas, and examines threats to the freedom of information and expression in America and abroad. For one hour a week, the show tries to lift the veil from the process of \"making media,\" especially news media, because it's through that lens that we see the world and the world sees us",
"airtime": "SUN 2pm-3pm, MON 12am-1am",
"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/onTheMedia.png",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.wnycstudios.org/shows/otm",
"meta": {
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"source": "wnyc"
},
"link": "/radio/program/on-the-media",
"subscribe": {
"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/on-the-media/id73330715?mt=2",
"tuneIn": "https://tunein.com/radio/On-the-Media-p69/",
"rss": "http://feeds.wnyc.org/onthemedia"
}
},
"pbs-newshour": {
"id": "pbs-newshour",
"title": "PBS NewsHour",
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