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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_73978\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/red-cabbage11.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-73978\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/red-cabbage11.jpg\" alt=\"Braised Red Cabbage. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"669\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Braised Red Cabbage. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>All Photos: \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/wendy-goodfriend/\">\u003cem>Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I’ve always loved the sweet and sour braised red cabbage you get in German restaurants, but I never considered making it at home until I met my British husband and started frequenting the UK more often (cabbage actually comes from Britain). There, in the deep, dark winter months, they serve it alongside braised sausages, slow-roasted meats, and pillowy piles of mash. Helllooo?! I came home one year and was determined to come up with my own version; one that had all the layers of flavor and nuances of the versions I’d tried across the pond.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is my special holiday version. It feels warm and cozy and a bit spruced up. If you want to make a simpler version, just omit the chestnuts, swap out the pancetta for bacon, and leave off the fresh parsley garnish. It is great alongside turkey, stuffing, and mashed potatoes, providing the perfect sweet-tart counterpoint, but you can also serve this up with sausages, roast chicken, seared lamb chops, or roast pork tenderloin. Sometimes I even just stand there at my fridge and eat it semi-respectfully from the bowl (as opposed to my toddler who merely shovels it into her mouth with her hands, declaring it “nummy” after each and every bite).\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_73965\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/red-cabbage1.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-73965\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/red-cabbage1.jpg\" alt=\"Ingredients for Braised Red Cabbage. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"669\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ingredients for Braised Red Cabbage. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: Braised Red Cabbage\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Serves 4–6\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nOlive oil\u003cbr>\n3–4 thin slices pancetta, roughly chopped\u003cbr>\n2 tablespoons unsalted butter\u003cbr>\nAbout 8 oz cooked, peeled chestnuts, roughly chopped*\u003cbr>\n1 tablespoon dry sherry\u003cbr>\n2 tart baking apples, peeled, cored, and chopped\u003cbr>\n1 small red cabbage, outer leaves and core removed, sliced\u003cbr>\nBalsamic vinegar\u003cbr>\nKosher salt and freshly ground black pepper\u003cbr>\nA handful of chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nPreheat the oven to 325°F. Pour a glug of olive oil into a large, heavy Dutch oven or an ovenproof saucepan and warm it over medium heat. Add the pancetta and cook, stirring, until golden. Add the butter, chestnuts, sherry, and apples. Stir to combine then let sizzle for a few minutes. Add the cabbage, a few healthy glugs of balsamic (maybe 1/4 to 1/3 cup or so), and season with salt and pepper. Stir everything together so that the cabbage is evenly coated. Cover and bake, stirring occasionally, until the cabbage is nice and tender, 1 1/2 to 2 hours. Add a little water or broth if the cabbage starts to dry out, you want it to remain nice and moist. Sprinkle with parsley before serving.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[gallery type=\"slideshow\" link=\"file\" ids=\"73965,73968,73969,73970,73971,73973,73974,73975,73990,73977,73976,73978\"]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>*\u003cstrong>A note on chestnuts:\u003c/strong> If you are determined to roast or boil your own fresh chestnuts and then peel them, good on you. After many years of attempting this, and now that I have a kid, I cannot be bothered. I love the vacuum-sealed precooked, pre-peeled versions, which I think are just as good...in fact, no, they are better because I don’t have to do anything!\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nPreheat the oven to 325°F. Pour a glug of olive oil into a large, heavy Dutch oven or an ovenproof saucepan and warm it over medium heat. Add the pancetta and cook, stirring, until golden. Add the butter, chestnuts, sherry, and apples. Stir to combine then let sizzle for a few minutes. Add the cabbage, a few healthy glugs of balsamic (maybe 1/4 to 1/3 cup or so), and season with salt and pepper. Stir everything together so that the cabbage is evenly coated. Cover and bake, stirring occasionally, until the cabbage is nice and tender, 1 1/2 to 2 hours. Add a little water or broth if the cabbage starts to dry out, you want it to remain nice and moist. Sprinkle with parsley before serving.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>*\u003cstrong>A note on chestnuts:\u003c/strong> If you are determined to roast or boil your own fresh chestnuts and then peel them, good on you. After many years of attempting this, and now that I have a kid, I cannot be bothered. I love the vacuum-sealed precooked, pre-peeled versions, which I think are just as good...in fact, no, they are better because I don’t have to do anything!\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Thanksgiving Recipe: Oh-So-Decadent Wild Mushroom Gravy",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_73894\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/mushrooms1.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-73894\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/mushrooms1.jpg\" alt=\"Ingredients for Wild Mushroom gravy: trumpets, maitakes, thyme, carrots, onion. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"669\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ingredients for Wild Mushroom gravy: trumpets, maitakes, thyme, carrots, onion. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>All Photos:\u003c/em> \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/wendy-goodfriend/\">\u003cem>Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I’m a bit of a purist when it comes to Thanksgiving. I want the turkey, the stuffing, the cranberry sauce, the mashed potatoes, the yams, and of course, The Gravy (don’t worry, in addition to this starch-fest there are plenty of green veggies thrown in, but those tend to change year to year). Gravy just takes all of this over the top and makes it oh-so-decadent.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Generally, I make my gravy at the last minute, using drippings from the turkey along with the turkey stock I’ve bubbled away for hours and the shredded meat from the neck. But I thought I’d switch it up and offer a new option: wild mushroom gravy. This is a simple but chunky gravy, full of the deep richness of mushrooms.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You can easily make this vegan by subbing olive oil for the butter and using vegetable stock. You can even make this gluten-free by swapping out the all-purpose flour for sweet rice flour. If you’d like a less chunky gravy just stick an immersion blender into it at the end and whiz away to your desired level of smoothness; run it through a sieve if you really want it to be smooth, you’ll still retain all that delicious flavor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_73899\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/mushroom-gravy-final.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-73899\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/mushroom-gravy-final.jpg\" alt=\"Wild Mushroom Gravy. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"669\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Wild Mushroom Gravy. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: Wild Mushroom Gravy\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n4 tablespoons butter\u003cbr>\n1 small yellow onion, very finely chopped\u003cbr>\n1 carrot, peeled and very finely chopped\u003cbr>\n10 ounces mixed wild or cultivated mushrooms, such as porcini, trumpet, maitake, matsutake, chanterelle, and/or cremini, finely chopped\u003cbr>\n2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme leaves\u003cbr>\nOlive oil\u003cbr>\nKosher salt and freshly ground black pepper\u003cbr>\n1/4 cup flour\u003cbr>\n1/4 cup dry sherry\u003cbr>\nAbout 2 1/2 cups turkey, chicken, or vegetable stock, plus more as needed to thin the gravy to your desired consistency\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nIn a saucepan over medium-high heat, melt 1 tablespoon butter. Add the onion and carrot and sauté, stirring occasionally, until tender and browned, about 5 minutes. Add the mushrooms, thyme, a glug of olive oil, and a pinch of salt and sauté, stirring, until the mushrooms release their juices, become tender, and the juices mostly evaporate, about 10 minutes. Transfer to a bowl and set aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the same saucepan, melt the remaining 3 tablespoons butter. Add the flour, whisking to remove any lumps. Slowly add the sherry, stirring, until smooth. Slowly add the stock, stirring, until smooth. Simmer for about 5 minutes, then return the mushroom mixture to the saucepan, stirring to combine. Simmer until the flavors come together, about 5 minutes. Taste and season with salt and pepper and serve.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[gallery type=\"slideshow\" link=\"file\" ids=\"73908,73909,73913,73910,73911,73912,73914,73915,73916,73920,73922,73899\"]\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Generally, I make my gravy at the last minute, using drippings from the turkey along with the turkey stock I’ve bubbled away for hours and the shredded meat from the neck. But I thought I’d switch it up and offer a new option: wild mushroom gravy. This is a simple but chunky gravy, full of the deep richness of mushrooms.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_73894\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/mushrooms1.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-73894\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/mushrooms1.jpg\" alt=\"Ingredients for Wild Mushroom gravy: trumpets, maitakes, thyme, carrots, onion. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"669\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ingredients for Wild Mushroom gravy: trumpets, maitakes, thyme, carrots, onion. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>All Photos:\u003c/em> \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/wendy-goodfriend/\">\u003cem>Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I’m a bit of a purist when it comes to Thanksgiving. I want the turkey, the stuffing, the cranberry sauce, the mashed potatoes, the yams, and of course, The Gravy (don’t worry, in addition to this starch-fest there are plenty of green veggies thrown in, but those tend to change year to year). Gravy just takes all of this over the top and makes it oh-so-decadent.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Generally, I make my gravy at the last minute, using drippings from the turkey along with the turkey stock I’ve bubbled away for hours and the shredded meat from the neck. But I thought I’d switch it up and offer a new option: wild mushroom gravy. This is a simple but chunky gravy, full of the deep richness of mushrooms.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You can easily make this vegan by subbing olive oil for the butter and using vegetable stock. You can even make this gluten-free by swapping out the all-purpose flour for sweet rice flour. If you’d like a less chunky gravy just stick an immersion blender into it at the end and whiz away to your desired level of smoothness; run it through a sieve if you really want it to be smooth, you’ll still retain all that delicious flavor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_73899\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/mushroom-gravy-final.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-73899\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/mushroom-gravy-final.jpg\" alt=\"Wild Mushroom Gravy. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"669\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Wild Mushroom Gravy. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: Wild Mushroom Gravy\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n4 tablespoons butter\u003cbr>\n1 small yellow onion, very finely chopped\u003cbr>\n1 carrot, peeled and very finely chopped\u003cbr>\n10 ounces mixed wild or cultivated mushrooms, such as porcini, trumpet, maitake, matsutake, chanterelle, and/or cremini, finely chopped\u003cbr>\n2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme leaves\u003cbr>\nOlive oil\u003cbr>\nKosher salt and freshly ground black pepper\u003cbr>\n1/4 cup flour\u003cbr>\n1/4 cup dry sherry\u003cbr>\nAbout 2 1/2 cups turkey, chicken, or vegetable stock, plus more as needed to thin the gravy to your desired consistency\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nIn a saucepan over medium-high heat, melt 1 tablespoon butter. Add the onion and carrot and sauté, stirring occasionally, until tender and browned, about 5 minutes. Add the mushrooms, thyme, a glug of olive oil, and a pinch of salt and sauté, stirring, until the mushrooms release their juices, become tender, and the juices mostly evaporate, about 10 minutes. Transfer to a bowl and set aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the same saucepan, melt the remaining 3 tablespoons butter. Add the flour, whisking to remove any lumps. Slowly add the sherry, stirring, until smooth. Slowly add the stock, stirring, until smooth. Simmer for about 5 minutes, then return the mushroom mixture to the saucepan, stirring to combine. Simmer until the flavors come together, about 5 minutes. Taste and season with salt and pepper and serve.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "Deconstructed Turkey: A Succulent Alternative to a Thanksgiving Classic",
"title": "Deconstructed Turkey: A Succulent Alternative to a Thanksgiving Classic",
"headTitle": "Thanksgiving Recipes | Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_73816\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/deconstructed-turkey1000.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-73816\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/deconstructed-turkey1000.jpg\" alt=\"Deconstructed Turkey. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"669\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Deconstructed Turkey. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>All Photos:\u003c/em> \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/wendy-goodfriend/\">\u003cem>Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For as long as I can remember, I’ve played a big role in preparing Thanksgiving dinner for both family and friends. Growing up, we did turkey the way most folks did: stuff it, throw it in the oven, and roast it until the little plastic doo-hickey popped out. As I got older, and my culinary sense of adventure grew and matured, I started brining the turkey. Then one year, this was maybe 10 years ago or more, we got really crazy and threw the brined bird on the grill, slow grill-roasting and smoking it to a mahogany red.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_73823\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/raw-turkey1000.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-73823\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/raw-turkey1000.jpg\" alt=\"The raw \" width=\"1000\" height=\"669\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The raw \"petite\" turkey ready to be deconstructed. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>After a number of years on Thanksgiving hiatus (due to the fact that we were traveling abroad), I finally found myself back home last year, and I couldn’t wait to host my first Thanksgiving in our new house.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I decided to take the entire thing on myself, something I’d not done for many years, and I was ready to do something new. So in that spirit, I thought I’d try a whole new and slightly blasphemous approach: I would dismantle the turkey.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is not a new idea, it was actually suggested to me a few years back by a close friend who is also an amazing chef. The idea is simple. White meat and dark meat simply don’t cook at the same rate, so why not treat them the way they want to be treated? Braise the dark meat until it’s falling-off-the-bone-tender and roast the breast meat just long enough to keep it tender and juicy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, I’d fallen into the brining camp years ago, but due to the lack of space for putting a whole 15-lb turkey into a vat of brining liquid, I decided to dry-brine the turkey by rubbing each part down with kosher salt and letting it wallow in the salt for a few days.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The results were incredible. Not only was I able to braise the legs early in the day and just warm the meat right before we sat down, but the breast took no time at all – a mere hour – and took up far less oven space than an entire turkey. It was also the very first time that every scrap of dark meat was devoured that very same night, something I’d never witnessed in all my years of turkey baking/roasting/grilling.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, perhaps it is unthinkable to sit down to your Thanksgiving dinner without the ceremony of bringing a whole golden brown bird to the table and carving it to applause. But if it’s succulent flavor you are after, you really can’t go wrong with this version.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: Deconstructed Turkey & Gravy\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Serves 10–12 with leftovers\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>15 lb turkey, ideally organic*\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 large yellow onions, 1 diced and 1 cut into large chunks (skins reserved)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>4 stalks celery, 2 diced and 2 cut into large chunks (trimmed tops reserved)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>About 3–4 tbsp kosher salt, plus more as needed\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 large carrot, peeled and diced\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3/4 cup dry white wine\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>4 cups turkey stock or low-sodium chicken broth, plus more as needed\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3 tbsp unsalted butter, softened, plus more if needed\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tbsp thyme leaves, chopped\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/3 cup all-purpose flour\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Freshly ground pepper\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli style=\"list-style-type: none\">\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>Using a sharp knife or poultry shears, separate the legs and thighs from the breast and wing section. Remove the backbone and set aside. Rub the leg/thigh and breast sections all over (including under the skin) with kosher salt. Place the turkey pieces on a rimmed baking sheet or in a roasting pan, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 1 to 2 days. If the turkey pieces don’t fit all on the baking sheet, put the breast section into a deep mixing bowl and cover with plastic wrap before refrigerating.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>[gallery type=\"slideshow\" link=\"file\" ids=\"73828,73829,73830,73831,73832,73833,73834,73836,73838,73839,73841,73840\"]\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli style=\"list-style-type: none\">\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>Meanwhile, to make turkey stock, add the reserved backbone plus the neck, onion chunks and skins, and celery chunks and trimmed celery tops to a stockpot. Cover with cold water and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat, cover partially, and simmer for about 3 hours. Strain through a fine mesh sieve, let cool to room temperature, then refrigerate until ready to use.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003cstrong>To braise the legs and thighs:\u003c/strong> Preheat the oven to 300°F. Pat the turkey dry with paper towels. In a large, heavy Dutch oven, warm the olive oil over medium-high heat. Add the thighs and drumsticks and sear until well browned all over, about 15 minutes. Transfer to a platter.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Add the onion, celery, and carrot to the Dutch oven. Saute, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables begin to soften, about 5 minutes. Add the wine and simmer about 5 minutes. Return the thighs and drumsticks to the Dutch oven and add about 4 cups of the turkey stock. Bring to a slow boil, then cover and place in the oven. Cook until the turkey is very tender, turning once about halfway through, about 1 hour. Transfer the turkey to a platter to cool. Strain the braising liquid and set aside.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>[gallery type=\"slideshow\" link=\"file\" ids=\"73846,73847,73848,73849,73850,73851,73852,73853,73854,73855,73856,73857,73858,73859,73860\"]\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli style=\"list-style-type: none\">\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>When the turkey is cool enough to handle, remove the meat from the thighs and roughly shred. Return the drumsticks and thigh meat to the Dutch oven, moisten with some of the braising liquid, and set aside until ready to eat (or re-warm the meat in the oven before eating). Reserve the remaining braising liquid to make the pan gravy.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003cstrong>To roast the turkey breast:\u003c/strong> Remove the turkey breast from the refrigerator about 1 hour before roasting. Preheat the oven to 425°F. Pat the turkey breast dry with paper towels. Spread some of the butter under the turkey breast skin along with the chopped thyme. Spread the remaining butter over the skin, all over the turkey.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Place the turkey breast in a heavy cast-iron skillet just big enough to fit it snugly (I used a 12-inch pan). Place in the oven and roast the turkey breast for about 30 minutes, then reduce the heat to 375°F. Roast for about 1 hour, until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the thickest part of the meat registers 150°–160°F. Transfer the breast to a cutting board and let rest for about 15 minutes.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>To make pan gravy, over medium heat, add the flour to the drippings in the skillet, whisking to remove any lumps. Add some butter if you need more fat. Slowly add the reserved braising liquid, stirring, until smooth. Add more broth if needed to thin the gravy slightly. (\u003cem>not pictured\u003c/em>)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Remove the breast meat from the turkey carcass, and slice across the grain. Serve with the dark meat and drumsticks, and the gravy.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>[gallery type=\"slideshow\" link=\"file\" ids=\"73863,73864,73865,73866,73867,73868\"]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>*\u003cem>A note on the turkey you see in this post:\u003c/em> I jumped through hoops to get a turkey for this post, but after one snafu after another I ended up with a very tiny turkey (labeled “petite”) that almost looks like a chicken. This recipe is actually for a 15-pounder, but you can use anything from about 10 lbs up to 15 lbs.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Perhaps it is unthinkable to sit down to your Thanksgiving dinner without the ceremony of bringing a whole golden brown bird to the table and carving it to applause. But if it’s succulent flavor you are after, you really can’t go wrong with this version.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_73816\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/deconstructed-turkey1000.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-73816\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/deconstructed-turkey1000.jpg\" alt=\"Deconstructed Turkey. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"669\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Deconstructed Turkey. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>All Photos:\u003c/em> \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/wendy-goodfriend/\">\u003cem>Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For as long as I can remember, I’ve played a big role in preparing Thanksgiving dinner for both family and friends. Growing up, we did turkey the way most folks did: stuff it, throw it in the oven, and roast it until the little plastic doo-hickey popped out. As I got older, and my culinary sense of adventure grew and matured, I started brining the turkey. Then one year, this was maybe 10 years ago or more, we got really crazy and threw the brined bird on the grill, slow grill-roasting and smoking it to a mahogany red.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_73823\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/raw-turkey1000.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-73823\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/raw-turkey1000.jpg\" alt=\"The raw \" width=\"1000\" height=\"669\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The raw \"petite\" turkey ready to be deconstructed. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>After a number of years on Thanksgiving hiatus (due to the fact that we were traveling abroad), I finally found myself back home last year, and I couldn’t wait to host my first Thanksgiving in our new house.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I decided to take the entire thing on myself, something I’d not done for many years, and I was ready to do something new. So in that spirit, I thought I’d try a whole new and slightly blasphemous approach: I would dismantle the turkey.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is not a new idea, it was actually suggested to me a few years back by a close friend who is also an amazing chef. The idea is simple. White meat and dark meat simply don’t cook at the same rate, so why not treat them the way they want to be treated? Braise the dark meat until it’s falling-off-the-bone-tender and roast the breast meat just long enough to keep it tender and juicy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, I’d fallen into the brining camp years ago, but due to the lack of space for putting a whole 15-lb turkey into a vat of brining liquid, I decided to dry-brine the turkey by rubbing each part down with kosher salt and letting it wallow in the salt for a few days.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The results were incredible. Not only was I able to braise the legs early in the day and just warm the meat right before we sat down, but the breast took no time at all – a mere hour – and took up far less oven space than an entire turkey. It was also the very first time that every scrap of dark meat was devoured that very same night, something I’d never witnessed in all my years of turkey baking/roasting/grilling.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, perhaps it is unthinkable to sit down to your Thanksgiving dinner without the ceremony of bringing a whole golden brown bird to the table and carving it to applause. But if it’s succulent flavor you are after, you really can’t go wrong with this version.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: Deconstructed Turkey & Gravy\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Serves 10–12 with leftovers\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>15 lb turkey, ideally organic*\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 large yellow onions, 1 diced and 1 cut into large chunks (skins reserved)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>4 stalks celery, 2 diced and 2 cut into large chunks (trimmed tops reserved)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>About 3–4 tbsp kosher salt, plus more as needed\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 large carrot, peeled and diced\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3/4 cup dry white wine\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>4 cups turkey stock or low-sodium chicken broth, plus more as needed\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3 tbsp unsalted butter, softened, plus more if needed\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tbsp thyme leaves, chopped\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/3 cup all-purpose flour\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Freshly ground pepper\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli style=\"list-style-type: none\">\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>Using a sharp knife or poultry shears, separate the legs and thighs from the breast and wing section. Remove the backbone and set aside. Rub the leg/thigh and breast sections all over (including under the skin) with kosher salt. Place the turkey pieces on a rimmed baking sheet or in a roasting pan, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 1 to 2 days. If the turkey pieces don’t fit all on the baking sheet, put the breast section into a deep mixing bowl and cover with plastic wrap before refrigerating.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli style=\"list-style-type: none\">\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>Meanwhile, to make turkey stock, add the reserved backbone plus the neck, onion chunks and skins, and celery chunks and trimmed celery tops to a stockpot. Cover with cold water and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat, cover partially, and simmer for about 3 hours. Strain through a fine mesh sieve, let cool to room temperature, then refrigerate until ready to use.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003cstrong>To braise the legs and thighs:\u003c/strong> Preheat the oven to 300°F. Pat the turkey dry with paper towels. In a large, heavy Dutch oven, warm the olive oil over medium-high heat. Add the thighs and drumsticks and sear until well browned all over, about 15 minutes. Transfer to a platter.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Add the onion, celery, and carrot to the Dutch oven. Saute, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables begin to soften, about 5 minutes. Add the wine and simmer about 5 minutes. Return the thighs and drumsticks to the Dutch oven and add about 4 cups of the turkey stock. Bring to a slow boil, then cover and place in the oven. Cook until the turkey is very tender, turning once about halfway through, about 1 hour. Transfer the turkey to a platter to cool. Strain the braising liquid and set aside.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli style=\"list-style-type: none\">\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>When the turkey is cool enough to handle, remove the meat from the thighs and roughly shred. Return the drumsticks and thigh meat to the Dutch oven, moisten with some of the braising liquid, and set aside until ready to eat (or re-warm the meat in the oven before eating). Reserve the remaining braising liquid to make the pan gravy.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003cstrong>To roast the turkey breast:\u003c/strong> Remove the turkey breast from the refrigerator about 1 hour before roasting. Preheat the oven to 425°F. Pat the turkey breast dry with paper towels. Spread some of the butter under the turkey breast skin along with the chopped thyme. Spread the remaining butter over the skin, all over the turkey.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Place the turkey breast in a heavy cast-iron skillet just big enough to fit it snugly (I used a 12-inch pan). Place in the oven and roast the turkey breast for about 30 minutes, then reduce the heat to 375°F. Roast for about 1 hour, until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the thickest part of the meat registers 150°–160°F. Transfer the breast to a cutting board and let rest for about 15 minutes.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>To make pan gravy, over medium heat, add the flour to the drippings in the skillet, whisking to remove any lumps. Add some butter if you need more fat. Slowly add the reserved braising liquid, stirring, until smooth. Add more broth if needed to thin the gravy slightly. (\u003cem>not pictured\u003c/em>)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Remove the breast meat from the turkey carcass, and slice across the grain. Serve with the dark meat and drumsticks, and the gravy.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>*\u003cem>A note on the turkey you see in this post:\u003c/em> I jumped through hoops to get a turkey for this post, but after one snafu after another I ended up with a very tiny turkey (labeled “petite”) that almost looks like a chicken. This recipe is actually for a 15-pounder, but you can use anything from about 10 lbs up to 15 lbs.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Food Mash-Ups: The Most Popular Combos of the (Dying?) Craze",
"title": "Food Mash-Ups: The Most Popular Combos of the (Dying?) Craze",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_67816\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/cronuts6-feature.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-67816 \" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/cronuts6-feature.jpg\" alt=\"A sampling of cronuts. Did the croissant-donut start the food mash-up craze? Photo: Kelly O'Mara\" width=\"640\" height=\"360\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A sampling of cronuts. Did the croissant-donut start the food mash-up craze? Photo: Kelly O'Mara\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>It's hard to say which came first in food mash-up history: the \u003ca title=\"The San Francisco Cronut (or CroNot): Finding, Sampling and Taste Testing Donut-Croissants\" href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/08/07/the-san-francisco-cronut-or-cronot-finding-sampling-and-taste-testing-donut-croissants/\" target=\"_blank\">Cronut \u003c/a>or the Doritos Loco Taco. Both paved the way for people to start throwing together foods and calling it innovation. Partially, it's simply out of necessity. Snack food makers introduce 2,000 new products every year, \u003ca href=\"http://online.wsj.com/news/articles/SB10001424052702303812104576441720328761938\" target=\"_blank\">according the the Wall Street Journal\u003c/a>, and they're running out of ideas. Partially, food mash-ups are simply \u003ca href=\"http://laist.com/2013/09/18/mash-up_moratorium_quit_it_with_the.php\" target=\"_blank\">a craze whose time may be coming to an end\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.seriouseats.com/2013/09/popeyes-chicken-waffle-tenders-review.html\" target=\"_blank\">Chicken waffle tenders\u003c/a>? \u003cstrong>Done.\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"https://www.dunkindonuts.com/content/dunkindonuts/en/menu/food/sandwiches/breakfastsandwiches/Glazed_donut_breakfast_sandwich.html\" target=\"_blank\">Donut breakfast sandwiches\u003c/a>? \u003cstrong>Done.\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://consumerist.com/2013/08/20/taco-bell-now-testing-waffle-tacos-filled-with-fruit-and-fried-chicken/\" target=\"_blank\">Waffle tacos\u003c/a>? \u003cstrong>Done.\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://newsfeed.time.com/2013/07/26/carls-jr-introduces-a-pop-tart-ice-cream-sandwich/\" target=\"_blank\">Pop-Tart ice cream sandwiches\u003c/a>? \u003cstrong>Done\u003c/strong>, though that actually sounds pretty good.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here are some of the most popular and tastiest sounding mash-ups.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Before the Cronut combined two sweet breakfast items, there was a Thanksgiving treat that combined not two, but three dinner entrees. The \u003cstrong>Turducken\u003c/strong> is a feat of food engineering wizardy: a chicken inside a duck inside a turkey. While you can buy Turducken already made, you can also try to make your own using this \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodnetwork.com/recipes/paula-deen/turducken-recipe/index.html\" target=\"_blank\">Paula Deen recipe\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_72686\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003ca href=\"http://www.flickr.com/photos/14991743@N00/3461693930/in/photolist-6gU617-6gU65J-6kJk8h-6pyjtW-6pyjVC-7hnpYp-7iAyGw-7iRtoy-7iRzxd-7jtGMM-7jtGSi-7jxhhJ-7kuqan-7kXpS7-7kXrHw-7p82ue-7pbTtN-7qoPZS-7qu7MB-7queZF-7qxCye-7qxCDk-7qxGuF-7qxHCp-7qxKoZ-7qy6tu-7qyc19-7qBzPE-7qBCq7-7rTiR2-8mEyNU-9BDu43-9BAwNT-9BAyji-8XWsNe-7RtPw1-7Rqznv-8RkT7m-8RkT8w-8QQ8U6-8RrNSr-8RuVyu-8RuVpw-8RuVMY-8RrP8X-8RuVgm-8RrNBp-8RrP1Z-9E3q4X-7Pu5Hc-94Gvyh\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-72686\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/3461693930_a188db6422_z.jpg\" alt=\"The cross-section of a turducken. Photo: Jessica and Lon Binder/Flickr\" width=\"640\" height=\"427\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The cross-section of a turducken. Photo: Jessica and Lon Binder/Flickr\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>When it comes to desserts, there's virtually no mash-up that can go badly. Throw together some sweets and call it something new. Putting Oreos in things is particularly hot right now, because who doesn't like Oreos? You can make \u003ca href=\"http://www.bakersroyale.com/cookies/oreo-stuffed-funfetti-cookies/\" target=\"_blank\">cookies with Oreos baked inside\u003c/a>. Or, stick a Reese's inside an Oreo and cover the whole thing in chocolate and create \u003ca href=\"http://cookiesandcups.com/reeses-stuffed-oreos/\" target=\"_blank\">Reese's stuffed Oreos\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_72691\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 570px\">\u003ca href=\"http://cookiesandcups.com/reeses-stuffed-oreos/\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-72691\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/IMG_4834.jpg\" alt=\"Reese's stuffed Oreos have to be tasty. Photo: Cookies and Cups\" width=\"570\" height=\"370\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Reese's stuffed Oreos have to be tasty. Photo: Cookies and Cups\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The Bay Area has had its own food mash-ups. Around here \u003cstrong>the ramen burger\u003c/strong>, a burger with two buns made of ramen noodles, was on the menu at \u003ca href=\"http://www.nombesf.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Nombe\u003c/a> long before it became a hot New York item that people lined up down the block for. Now, the food truck pop-up restaurant \u003ca href=\"http://haparamensf.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Hapa Ramen\u003c/a> has come along and created an even more intense mash-up: \u003cstrong>cheeseburger ramen soup\u003c/strong>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_72690\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003ca href=\"http://www.flickr.com/photos/65070045@N03/9450718289/in/photolist-fp8phM-bg3t9X-99QYh7-fygTss-gdozbg-geEhdx-8PikaW-dP51JK-8kptny-8qiJNV-a6VkHs-aCJ93Y-dkAYu3-ftLd42\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-72690\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/9450718289_ae9da1e235_z.jpg\" alt=\"The Ramen Burger. Photo: sneurgaonkar/Flickr\" width=\"640\" height=\"474\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Ramen Burger. Photo: sneurgaonkar/Flickr\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>San Francisco is also home to the \u003cstrong>red velvet fried chicken\u003c/strong> -- fried chicken in red velvet cake batter and covered in red velvet crumbs. \u003ca href=\"http://americancupcake.com/\" target=\"_blank\">American Cupcake\u003c/a>, whose most famous item is the red velvet fried chicken, is making its name with odd food mash-ups that capitalize on the current craze, like cupcake pancakes and candy apple ribs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_72696\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 448px\">\u003ca href=\"http://www.flickr.com/photos/13304425@N02/5061432461/in/photolist-8HgawV-9gTREg-8C6tpV-8nLtjy-93tvUA-edu6uQ-8XbDYe-eYMkVC-eYAdm8-8XbDWc-fDfFKX-cr49S9-bFjfPx-bcwsag-9iGK4r-abxajH-cMHFEu-bipTg6-7Q58An-8XeFrW-8XeFtf-8XbE9i-8tWze6-e45yMS-fDfHT4-fR1DhE-f8tLkq-9aQoY3-97jT4H-8wWX9o-7Dsa7D-dPVtpR-8iYDU9-8iYDRS-bfzLbR-eh3C5t-dQZ9xe-fmbY8m-8XeFau-9gVfwx-8XbDUV-8XeFnQ-8XbE3X-8XbDZt-8XbE5i-8XbE2n-8XbDXc-eGFmRg-fs83vY-b8816i-e1SmkH\">\u003cimg class=\" wp-image-72696 \" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/5061432461_3448424c0c_z.jpg\" alt=\"Red velvet fried chicken at American Cupcake. Photo: atomic girl nyc/Flickr\" width=\"448\" height=\"336\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Red velvet fried chicken at American Cupcake. Photo: atomic girl nyc/Flickr\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The Bay Area is even home to a lesser-known tasty mash-up. \u003cstrong>The chinito\u003c/strong>, a Chinese burrito, was created by \u003ca href=\"http://missionchinesefood.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Mission Chinese Food\u003c/a>. The chinito, which comes vegan or with Peking duck, is a Chinese donut stuffed with vegetables and meat and then wrapped in a rice noodle. Sounds gross, but \u003ca href=\"http://www.chow.com/food-news/51862/more-culinary-mash-ups\" target=\"_blank\">it's supposed to be delicious\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Has the mash-up craze reached its end? Or, will we be cursed/blessed with many more tasty and strange combinations?\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "The food mash-up craze -- combining two (or more) items into one -- has very nearly run its course. Here are some of the most popular food mash-ups.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_67816\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/cronuts6-feature.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-67816 \" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/cronuts6-feature.jpg\" alt=\"A sampling of cronuts. Did the croissant-donut start the food mash-up craze? Photo: Kelly O'Mara\" width=\"640\" height=\"360\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A sampling of cronuts. Did the croissant-donut start the food mash-up craze? Photo: Kelly O'Mara\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>It's hard to say which came first in food mash-up history: the \u003ca title=\"The San Francisco Cronut (or CroNot): Finding, Sampling and Taste Testing Donut-Croissants\" href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/08/07/the-san-francisco-cronut-or-cronot-finding-sampling-and-taste-testing-donut-croissants/\" target=\"_blank\">Cronut \u003c/a>or the Doritos Loco Taco. Both paved the way for people to start throwing together foods and calling it innovation. Partially, it's simply out of necessity. Snack food makers introduce 2,000 new products every year, \u003ca href=\"http://online.wsj.com/news/articles/SB10001424052702303812104576441720328761938\" target=\"_blank\">according the the Wall Street Journal\u003c/a>, and they're running out of ideas. Partially, food mash-ups are simply \u003ca href=\"http://laist.com/2013/09/18/mash-up_moratorium_quit_it_with_the.php\" target=\"_blank\">a craze whose time may be coming to an end\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.seriouseats.com/2013/09/popeyes-chicken-waffle-tenders-review.html\" target=\"_blank\">Chicken waffle tenders\u003c/a>? \u003cstrong>Done.\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"https://www.dunkindonuts.com/content/dunkindonuts/en/menu/food/sandwiches/breakfastsandwiches/Glazed_donut_breakfast_sandwich.html\" target=\"_blank\">Donut breakfast sandwiches\u003c/a>? \u003cstrong>Done.\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://consumerist.com/2013/08/20/taco-bell-now-testing-waffle-tacos-filled-with-fruit-and-fried-chicken/\" target=\"_blank\">Waffle tacos\u003c/a>? \u003cstrong>Done.\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://newsfeed.time.com/2013/07/26/carls-jr-introduces-a-pop-tart-ice-cream-sandwich/\" target=\"_blank\">Pop-Tart ice cream sandwiches\u003c/a>? \u003cstrong>Done\u003c/strong>, though that actually sounds pretty good.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here are some of the most popular and tastiest sounding mash-ups.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Before the Cronut combined two sweet breakfast items, there was a Thanksgiving treat that combined not two, but three dinner entrees. The \u003cstrong>Turducken\u003c/strong> is a feat of food engineering wizardy: a chicken inside a duck inside a turkey. While you can buy Turducken already made, you can also try to make your own using this \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodnetwork.com/recipes/paula-deen/turducken-recipe/index.html\" target=\"_blank\">Paula Deen recipe\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_72686\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003ca href=\"http://www.flickr.com/photos/14991743@N00/3461693930/in/photolist-6gU617-6gU65J-6kJk8h-6pyjtW-6pyjVC-7hnpYp-7iAyGw-7iRtoy-7iRzxd-7jtGMM-7jtGSi-7jxhhJ-7kuqan-7kXpS7-7kXrHw-7p82ue-7pbTtN-7qoPZS-7qu7MB-7queZF-7qxCye-7qxCDk-7qxGuF-7qxHCp-7qxKoZ-7qy6tu-7qyc19-7qBzPE-7qBCq7-7rTiR2-8mEyNU-9BDu43-9BAwNT-9BAyji-8XWsNe-7RtPw1-7Rqznv-8RkT7m-8RkT8w-8QQ8U6-8RrNSr-8RuVyu-8RuVpw-8RuVMY-8RrP8X-8RuVgm-8RrNBp-8RrP1Z-9E3q4X-7Pu5Hc-94Gvyh\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-72686\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/3461693930_a188db6422_z.jpg\" alt=\"The cross-section of a turducken. Photo: Jessica and Lon Binder/Flickr\" width=\"640\" height=\"427\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The cross-section of a turducken. Photo: Jessica and Lon Binder/Flickr\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>When it comes to desserts, there's virtually no mash-up that can go badly. Throw together some sweets and call it something new. Putting Oreos in things is particularly hot right now, because who doesn't like Oreos? You can make \u003ca href=\"http://www.bakersroyale.com/cookies/oreo-stuffed-funfetti-cookies/\" target=\"_blank\">cookies with Oreos baked inside\u003c/a>. Or, stick a Reese's inside an Oreo and cover the whole thing in chocolate and create \u003ca href=\"http://cookiesandcups.com/reeses-stuffed-oreos/\" target=\"_blank\">Reese's stuffed Oreos\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_72691\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 570px\">\u003ca href=\"http://cookiesandcups.com/reeses-stuffed-oreos/\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-72691\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/IMG_4834.jpg\" alt=\"Reese's stuffed Oreos have to be tasty. Photo: Cookies and Cups\" width=\"570\" height=\"370\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Reese's stuffed Oreos have to be tasty. Photo: Cookies and Cups\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The Bay Area has had its own food mash-ups. Around here \u003cstrong>the ramen burger\u003c/strong>, a burger with two buns made of ramen noodles, was on the menu at \u003ca href=\"http://www.nombesf.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Nombe\u003c/a> long before it became a hot New York item that people lined up down the block for. Now, the food truck pop-up restaurant \u003ca href=\"http://haparamensf.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Hapa Ramen\u003c/a> has come along and created an even more intense mash-up: \u003cstrong>cheeseburger ramen soup\u003c/strong>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_72690\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003ca href=\"http://www.flickr.com/photos/65070045@N03/9450718289/in/photolist-fp8phM-bg3t9X-99QYh7-fygTss-gdozbg-geEhdx-8PikaW-dP51JK-8kptny-8qiJNV-a6VkHs-aCJ93Y-dkAYu3-ftLd42\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-72690\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/9450718289_ae9da1e235_z.jpg\" alt=\"The Ramen Burger. Photo: sneurgaonkar/Flickr\" width=\"640\" height=\"474\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Ramen Burger. Photo: sneurgaonkar/Flickr\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>San Francisco is also home to the \u003cstrong>red velvet fried chicken\u003c/strong> -- fried chicken in red velvet cake batter and covered in red velvet crumbs. \u003ca href=\"http://americancupcake.com/\" target=\"_blank\">American Cupcake\u003c/a>, whose most famous item is the red velvet fried chicken, is making its name with odd food mash-ups that capitalize on the current craze, like cupcake pancakes and candy apple ribs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_72696\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 448px\">\u003ca href=\"http://www.flickr.com/photos/13304425@N02/5061432461/in/photolist-8HgawV-9gTREg-8C6tpV-8nLtjy-93tvUA-edu6uQ-8XbDYe-eYMkVC-eYAdm8-8XbDWc-fDfFKX-cr49S9-bFjfPx-bcwsag-9iGK4r-abxajH-cMHFEu-bipTg6-7Q58An-8XeFrW-8XeFtf-8XbE9i-8tWze6-e45yMS-fDfHT4-fR1DhE-f8tLkq-9aQoY3-97jT4H-8wWX9o-7Dsa7D-dPVtpR-8iYDU9-8iYDRS-bfzLbR-eh3C5t-dQZ9xe-fmbY8m-8XeFau-9gVfwx-8XbDUV-8XeFnQ-8XbE3X-8XbDZt-8XbE5i-8XbE2n-8XbDXc-eGFmRg-fs83vY-b8816i-e1SmkH\">\u003cimg class=\" wp-image-72696 \" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/5061432461_3448424c0c_z.jpg\" alt=\"Red velvet fried chicken at American Cupcake. Photo: atomic girl nyc/Flickr\" width=\"448\" height=\"336\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Red velvet fried chicken at American Cupcake. Photo: atomic girl nyc/Flickr\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The Bay Area is even home to a lesser-known tasty mash-up. \u003cstrong>The chinito\u003c/strong>, a Chinese burrito, was created by \u003ca href=\"http://missionchinesefood.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Mission Chinese Food\u003c/a>. The chinito, which comes vegan or with Peking duck, is a Chinese donut stuffed with vegetables and meat and then wrapped in a rice noodle. Sounds gross, but \u003ca href=\"http://www.chow.com/food-news/51862/more-culinary-mash-ups\" target=\"_blank\">it's supposed to be delicious\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Has the mash-up craze reached its end? Or, will we be cursed/blessed with many more tasty and strange combinations?\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Melt: The Art of Macaroni and Cheese Elevates the Classic Comfort Food to a New Level",
"title": "Melt: The Art of Macaroni and Cheese Elevates the Classic Comfort Food to a New Level",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>[vimeo 73431292] \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Just in time for cooler fall climes, there’s a new book called \u003ca href=\"http://www.meltmacaroni.com/melt-the-cookbook/\">\u003cem>Melt: The Art of Macaroni and Cheese\u003c/em>\u003c/a>. Local northern California food writers and BAB bloggers \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/stephaniestiavetti/\">Stephanie Stiavetti\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/garrettmccord/\">Garrett McCord\u003c/a> have developed new takes on the classic comfort food and their innovative creations tempt and excite. The duo has also achieved expert status on how to shop for and cook with cheese. Bay Area Bites caught up with the authors to discuss their newly published book. Their comments have been edited for clarity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/Melt-cover600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/Melt-cover600.jpg\" alt=\"Melt: The Art of Macaroni and Cheese by Stephanie Stiavetti & Garrett McCord\" width=\"400\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-72638\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: \u003cem>Melt\u003c/em> asks folks to take something we think we know – pasta and cheese — and consider making it with different ingredients to go beyond the comfy mac and cheese casserole. What are some of your key recipes?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>McCord:\u003c/strong> I think one of the recipes I personally dig that shows a unique spin on the subject is our beet and Roquefort mac with poppy seeds. It's got a 90s grunge, Pretty In Pink, guy-liner thing going for it appearance-wise with the beet-mornay sauce. Plus, Roquefort sauces are somewhat unique. It gives the mornay some serious blue bite in all that magenta-hued deliciousness.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_72636\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/garrett-mccord600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/garrett-mccord600.jpg\" alt=\"Garrett McCord. Photo credit: Stephanie Stiavetti\" width=\"300\" class=\"size-full wp-image-72636\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Garrett McCord. Photo credit: Stephanie Stiavetti\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Stiavetti:\u003c/strong> Even though we’re madly in love with uber-thick, creamy macaroni dishes, we really tried to expand our thinking outside of the standard cheesy-mac. The salad chapter is filled with non-standard macaroni and cheese recipes, my favorite being the Humboldt Fog, Grilled Peaches, and Orzo. We even hopped over into dessert territory, where another one my favorite dishes lives: a decadent cannelloni stuffed with fromage blanc and chevre, drizzled with a creamy peach topping that is given a touch of heat by the merest pinch of ghost pepper.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_72637\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/stephanie-stiavetti600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/stephanie-stiavetti600.jpg\" alt=\" Stephanie Stiavetti. Photo credit: Stephanie Stiavetti\" width=\"300\" class=\"size-full wp-image-72637\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Stephanie Stiavetti. Photo credit: Stephanie Stiavetti\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Fall is upon us, and almost the perfect season to launch a book that incorporates melted cheese at its ooey gooey best. What are some recipes that take advantage of our farmers’ market scene for fall?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>McCord:\u003c/strong> The stuffed pumpkin is definitely a perfect recipe for Autumn – take a sugar pumpkin, hollow it out, pre-bake it, and then you fill it with sausage, cheese, pasta, and cream. It’s got show for sure, but the taste when the cream becomes infused with the flavor of roasted pumpkin? It’s more wonderful than a stampede of corgis.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There’s also a salad recipe using persimmons and Fiscalini cheddar that’s easy to make and hits every note on the tongue; sweet, fruity, sour, it’s all there and really quite satisfying. Plus, it let me put one of my favorite fruits in the book!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Stiavetti:\u003c/strong> Hands down, the Kasëspätzle reigns supreme as my favorite fall dish. It’s so simple to create but yields a seriously impressive tangle of tender, homemade dumplings smothered with melted Edam cheese. To top off this recipe, we caramelize a few super-sweet onions that you’ll see popping up at the farmers' market. Making this dish is like a big, old culinary bear hug: creamy, hearty, and bursting with flavor. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What are some tips for making and eating macaroni and cheese?\u003c/strong> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>McCord:\u003c/strong> Pre-heat your milk on the stovetop first if you plan to make a mornay. Seriously, using cold milk will slow down the process to a crawl. Warming speeds things up significantly by about 10 minutes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Stiavetti:\u003c/strong> Turn off the heat on your béchamel before adding the grated cheese! Heating cheese too fast can cause the liquids and solids to separate, which makes for a very sad sauce indeed. We make a note in every recipe to remove the pot from the heat before adding the cheese, but I always make sure to mention it so people know that it’s an important step.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: You are both cheese experts at this point. Where do you buy and eat cheese?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>McCord:\u003c/strong> Stephanie introduced me to \u003ca href=\"http://rockridgemarkethall.com/pasta-shop/fourth-street-pasta-shop\">The Pasta Shop in Berkeley\u003c/a>, and now when I go to visit her from Sac I always end up making a quick stop there. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Stiavetti:\u003c/strong> I love \u003ca href=\"http://rockridgemarkethall.com/pasta-shop\">The Pasta Shop in Oakland\u003c/a> and Berkeley, and I’m a frequent visitor to \u003ca href=\"http://cheeseboardcollective.coop/\">The Cheese Board\u003c/a> (of course) and an awesome new shop that just popped up in Oakland a few years ago called \u003ca href=\"http://www.sacredwheelcheeseshop.com/\">Sacred Wheel\u003c/a>. It was opened by a local cheese lover named Jena; she’s incredibly knowledgeable and passionate about cheese. And her kitchen serves up some gorgeous hot dishes made from the cheeses she sells at the counter!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Melt Book Tour Information:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://www.meltmacaroni.com/events/\">\u003cstrong>View local book events\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_72634\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/Melt-pumpkin-final.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/Melt-pumpkin-final.jpg\" alt=\"Pumpkin Stuffed with Fontina, Italian sausage and macaroni. Photo: Matt Armendariz, Courtesy of Little, Brown and Company\" width=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-72634\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pumpkin Stuffed with Fontina, Italian sausage and macaroni.\u003cbr>Photo: Matt Armendariz, Courtesy of Little, Brown and Company\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>RECIPE: Pumpkin Stuffed with Fontina, Italian Sausage, and Macaroni\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Recipe by Stephanie Stiavetti and Garrett McCord, Courtesy of Little, Brown and Company\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Serves 4\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>1 sugar pumpkin, or other sweet variety (not a carving pumpkin), about 5 pounds\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Sea salt\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Freshly ground black pepper\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tablespoon olive oil\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 pound mild Italian pork sausage\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>4 ounces elbow macaroni\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>5 ounces Fontina, cut into 1/4-inch cubes\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 ounces Gruyère, cut into 1/4-inch cubes\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3 scallions, diced\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 teaspoon chopped fresh rosemary\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 teaspoon chopped fresh sage\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 cup heavy cream\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>Fontina is a creamy, woodsy, Alpine-style cheese. There are many varieties of Fontina, from Swiss to Italian, with some fine specimens even coming out of Wisconsin. Each has its own unique profile, so be sure to taste them all and pick the one that you like best. Regardless of which you choose, you will get a nice, semi-hard texture and subtle mushroomy flavor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It just so happens that Fontina pairs beautifully with the sugary flavors of a good baking pumpkin. This recipe, baked inside the pumpkin—a trick inspired by Dorie Greenspan and Ruth Reichl, both famous for their stuffed-pumpkin recipes (among other things)—simply knocked our socks off with flavor and a stylish yet homey presentation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Although best with Fontina (and a touch of Gruyere, another Alpine favorite), this recipe is flexible and can use whatever cheeses, meats, onions, or extra pasta you have on hand. Feel free to experiment.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Cut a circle from the top of the pumpkin at a 45-degree angle, the way you would cut open a pumpkin to make a jack-o’-lantern, and set aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Scoop out the seeds and strings as best you can. Generously salt and pepper the inside of the pumpkin, pop the top back on it, place it on a rimmed baking dish (since the pumpkin may leak or weep a bit), and bake for 45 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Meanwhile, heat the olive oil in a sauté pan over medium heat. If the sausages are in their casings, remove the meat and discard the casings. Crumble the sausage meat into small chunks and cook until lightly browned. Remove the sausage from the pan with a slotted spoon and set aside to cool. Discard the drippings, or save for gravy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Also while the pumpkin bakes, cook the pasta in a large pot of salted boiling water until al dente. Drain through a colander and rinse with cool water to stop the cooking process.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. In a bowl, toss together the Fontina, Gruyère, sausage, pasta, scallions, and herbs. Once the pumpkin is done baking, take it out of the oven and fill it with the macaroni and cheese. Pour the cream over the filling. Place the top back on the pumpkin and bake for 1 hour, taking the top off for the last 15 minutes so the cheese on top of the filling can properly brown. If the top cream still seems a bit too wobbly and liquid, give it another 10 minutes in the oven. The cream may bubble over a bit, which is fine. If the pumpkin splits while baking, as occasionally happens, be thankful you set it in a rimmed baking dish and continue to bake as normal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5. Allow the pumpkin to rest for 10 minutes before serving. Be careful moving the dish, as the pumpkin may be fragile. You can serve this dish two ways: Cut it into sections and serve them, or just scoop out the insides with scrapings of the pumpkin flesh for each serving. Either way is just dandy. Salt and pepper to taste.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Alternative cheeses:\u003c/strong> Fontina and Gruyère are widely available and are best used for this recipe, but feel free to try your favorite cheese. We particularly like Valley Ford’s Estero Gold or its Highway 1 Fontina, as well as Roth Käse’s MezzaLuna Fontina. If you want to try something radical, a creamy blue cheese like Buttermilk Blue or Cambozola will do nicely too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Wine pairings:\u003c/strong> white Rhône Valley blends, Viognier, oaky Chardonnay, champagne\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Additional pairings for the cheese:\u003c/strong> apples, toasted walnuts, toasted hazelnuts\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "A new book from Bay Area Bites contributors Stephanie Stiavetti and Garrett McCord takes mac and cheese to new levels using artisanal cheeses and complementary local ingredients and wine. Find out more about \u003cem>Melt\u003c/em> and get the recipe for pumpkin stuffed with Fontina, Italian sausage, and macaroni.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Just in time for cooler fall climes, there’s a new book called \u003ca href=\"http://www.meltmacaroni.com/melt-the-cookbook/\">\u003cem>Melt: The Art of Macaroni and Cheese\u003c/em>\u003c/a>. Local northern California food writers and BAB bloggers \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/stephaniestiavetti/\">Stephanie Stiavetti\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/garrettmccord/\">Garrett McCord\u003c/a> have developed new takes on the classic comfort food and their innovative creations tempt and excite. The duo has also achieved expert status on how to shop for and cook with cheese. Bay Area Bites caught up with the authors to discuss their newly published book. Their comments have been edited for clarity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/Melt-cover600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/Melt-cover600.jpg\" alt=\"Melt: The Art of Macaroni and Cheese by Stephanie Stiavetti & Garrett McCord\" width=\"400\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-72638\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: \u003cem>Melt\u003c/em> asks folks to take something we think we know – pasta and cheese — and consider making it with different ingredients to go beyond the comfy mac and cheese casserole. What are some of your key recipes?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>McCord:\u003c/strong> I think one of the recipes I personally dig that shows a unique spin on the subject is our beet and Roquefort mac with poppy seeds. It's got a 90s grunge, Pretty In Pink, guy-liner thing going for it appearance-wise with the beet-mornay sauce. Plus, Roquefort sauces are somewhat unique. It gives the mornay some serious blue bite in all that magenta-hued deliciousness.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_72636\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/garrett-mccord600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/garrett-mccord600.jpg\" alt=\"Garrett McCord. Photo credit: Stephanie Stiavetti\" width=\"300\" class=\"size-full wp-image-72636\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Garrett McCord. Photo credit: Stephanie Stiavetti\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Stiavetti:\u003c/strong> Even though we’re madly in love with uber-thick, creamy macaroni dishes, we really tried to expand our thinking outside of the standard cheesy-mac. The salad chapter is filled with non-standard macaroni and cheese recipes, my favorite being the Humboldt Fog, Grilled Peaches, and Orzo. We even hopped over into dessert territory, where another one my favorite dishes lives: a decadent cannelloni stuffed with fromage blanc and chevre, drizzled with a creamy peach topping that is given a touch of heat by the merest pinch of ghost pepper.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_72637\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/stephanie-stiavetti600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/stephanie-stiavetti600.jpg\" alt=\" Stephanie Stiavetti. Photo credit: Stephanie Stiavetti\" width=\"300\" class=\"size-full wp-image-72637\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Stephanie Stiavetti. Photo credit: Stephanie Stiavetti\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Fall is upon us, and almost the perfect season to launch a book that incorporates melted cheese at its ooey gooey best. What are some recipes that take advantage of our farmers’ market scene for fall?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>McCord:\u003c/strong> The stuffed pumpkin is definitely a perfect recipe for Autumn – take a sugar pumpkin, hollow it out, pre-bake it, and then you fill it with sausage, cheese, pasta, and cream. It’s got show for sure, but the taste when the cream becomes infused with the flavor of roasted pumpkin? It’s more wonderful than a stampede of corgis.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There’s also a salad recipe using persimmons and Fiscalini cheddar that’s easy to make and hits every note on the tongue; sweet, fruity, sour, it’s all there and really quite satisfying. Plus, it let me put one of my favorite fruits in the book!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Stiavetti:\u003c/strong> Hands down, the Kasëspätzle reigns supreme as my favorite fall dish. It’s so simple to create but yields a seriously impressive tangle of tender, homemade dumplings smothered with melted Edam cheese. To top off this recipe, we caramelize a few super-sweet onions that you’ll see popping up at the farmers' market. Making this dish is like a big, old culinary bear hug: creamy, hearty, and bursting with flavor. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What are some tips for making and eating macaroni and cheese?\u003c/strong> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>McCord:\u003c/strong> Pre-heat your milk on the stovetop first if you plan to make a mornay. Seriously, using cold milk will slow down the process to a crawl. Warming speeds things up significantly by about 10 minutes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Stiavetti:\u003c/strong> Turn off the heat on your béchamel before adding the grated cheese! Heating cheese too fast can cause the liquids and solids to separate, which makes for a very sad sauce indeed. We make a note in every recipe to remove the pot from the heat before adding the cheese, but I always make sure to mention it so people know that it’s an important step.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: You are both cheese experts at this point. Where do you buy and eat cheese?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>McCord:\u003c/strong> Stephanie introduced me to \u003ca href=\"http://rockridgemarkethall.com/pasta-shop/fourth-street-pasta-shop\">The Pasta Shop in Berkeley\u003c/a>, and now when I go to visit her from Sac I always end up making a quick stop there. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Stiavetti:\u003c/strong> I love \u003ca href=\"http://rockridgemarkethall.com/pasta-shop\">The Pasta Shop in Oakland\u003c/a> and Berkeley, and I’m a frequent visitor to \u003ca href=\"http://cheeseboardcollective.coop/\">The Cheese Board\u003c/a> (of course) and an awesome new shop that just popped up in Oakland a few years ago called \u003ca href=\"http://www.sacredwheelcheeseshop.com/\">Sacred Wheel\u003c/a>. It was opened by a local cheese lover named Jena; she’s incredibly knowledgeable and passionate about cheese. And her kitchen serves up some gorgeous hot dishes made from the cheeses she sells at the counter!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Melt Book Tour Information:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://www.meltmacaroni.com/events/\">\u003cstrong>View local book events\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_72634\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/Melt-pumpkin-final.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/Melt-pumpkin-final.jpg\" alt=\"Pumpkin Stuffed with Fontina, Italian sausage and macaroni. Photo: Matt Armendariz, Courtesy of Little, Brown and Company\" width=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-72634\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pumpkin Stuffed with Fontina, Italian sausage and macaroni.\u003cbr>Photo: Matt Armendariz, Courtesy of Little, Brown and Company\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>RECIPE: Pumpkin Stuffed with Fontina, Italian Sausage, and Macaroni\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Recipe by Stephanie Stiavetti and Garrett McCord, Courtesy of Little, Brown and Company\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Serves 4\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>1 sugar pumpkin, or other sweet variety (not a carving pumpkin), about 5 pounds\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Sea salt\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Freshly ground black pepper\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tablespoon olive oil\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 pound mild Italian pork sausage\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>4 ounces elbow macaroni\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>5 ounces Fontina, cut into 1/4-inch cubes\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 ounces Gruyère, cut into 1/4-inch cubes\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3 scallions, diced\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 teaspoon chopped fresh rosemary\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 teaspoon chopped fresh sage\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 cup heavy cream\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>Fontina is a creamy, woodsy, Alpine-style cheese. There are many varieties of Fontina, from Swiss to Italian, with some fine specimens even coming out of Wisconsin. Each has its own unique profile, so be sure to taste them all and pick the one that you like best. Regardless of which you choose, you will get a nice, semi-hard texture and subtle mushroomy flavor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It just so happens that Fontina pairs beautifully with the sugary flavors of a good baking pumpkin. This recipe, baked inside the pumpkin—a trick inspired by Dorie Greenspan and Ruth Reichl, both famous for their stuffed-pumpkin recipes (among other things)—simply knocked our socks off with flavor and a stylish yet homey presentation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Although best with Fontina (and a touch of Gruyere, another Alpine favorite), this recipe is flexible and can use whatever cheeses, meats, onions, or extra pasta you have on hand. Feel free to experiment.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Cut a circle from the top of the pumpkin at a 45-degree angle, the way you would cut open a pumpkin to make a jack-o’-lantern, and set aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Scoop out the seeds and strings as best you can. Generously salt and pepper the inside of the pumpkin, pop the top back on it, place it on a rimmed baking dish (since the pumpkin may leak or weep a bit), and bake for 45 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Meanwhile, heat the olive oil in a sauté pan over medium heat. If the sausages are in their casings, remove the meat and discard the casings. Crumble the sausage meat into small chunks and cook until lightly browned. Remove the sausage from the pan with a slotted spoon and set aside to cool. Discard the drippings, or save for gravy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Also while the pumpkin bakes, cook the pasta in a large pot of salted boiling water until al dente. Drain through a colander and rinse with cool water to stop the cooking process.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. In a bowl, toss together the Fontina, Gruyère, sausage, pasta, scallions, and herbs. Once the pumpkin is done baking, take it out of the oven and fill it with the macaroni and cheese. Pour the cream over the filling. Place the top back on the pumpkin and bake for 1 hour, taking the top off for the last 15 minutes so the cheese on top of the filling can properly brown. If the top cream still seems a bit too wobbly and liquid, give it another 10 minutes in the oven. The cream may bubble over a bit, which is fine. If the pumpkin splits while baking, as occasionally happens, be thankful you set it in a rimmed baking dish and continue to bake as normal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5. Allow the pumpkin to rest for 10 minutes before serving. Be careful moving the dish, as the pumpkin may be fragile. You can serve this dish two ways: Cut it into sections and serve them, or just scoop out the insides with scrapings of the pumpkin flesh for each serving. Either way is just dandy. Salt and pepper to taste.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Alternative cheeses:\u003c/strong> Fontina and Gruyère are widely available and are best used for this recipe, but feel free to try your favorite cheese. We particularly like Valley Ford’s Estero Gold or its Highway 1 Fontina, as well as Roth Käse’s MezzaLuna Fontina. If you want to try something radical, a creamy blue cheese like Buttermilk Blue or Cambozola will do nicely too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Wine pairings:\u003c/strong> white Rhône Valley blends, Viognier, oaky Chardonnay, champagne\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_72450\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/credit-noelle-chun-and-josh-urich-new.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/credit-noelle-chun-and-josh-urich-new.jpg\" alt=\"Danny Louie at Alembic. Photo: Noelle Chun & Josh Urich\" width=\"640\" height=\"427\" class=\"size-full wp-image-72450\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Danny Louie at Alembic. Photo: Noelle Chun & Josh Urich\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Danny Louie is a creative and mellow force known for his work at \u003ca href=\"http://www.alembicbar.com/\">The Alembic\u003c/a> where he is the Bar Manager. Louie is a San Francisco native and lives in Dogpatch with his wife Lisa Louie, a makeup artist & wardrobe stylist. The couple have two cats: Mao & Django.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Danny says he was raised in an inspirational and innovative environment. His family immigrated from China -- his mother was a seamstress and his father was a bartender and chef. His initial career path focused on pursuing fashion and interior design but he became interested in the food and beverage industry once he started working at the Hotel Sofitel in Redwood Shores. As the head bartender he was able to delve into the craft and history of cocktail making. In 2008 Danny helped open two restaurant hot spots in San Francisco: Dosa & Prospect. He then found a home at The Alembic. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He also teamed up with Ethan Terry, Brandon Josie & Tim Zohn to form Cocktail Lab, a collaboration between bartenders and cocktail enthusiasts focused on bringing together interactive and innovative cocktail techniques and ideas. Danny was also involved in designing the beverage program for the \u003ca href=\"http://stagdining.com/\">Stag Dining Group\u003c/a>, an underground pop-up. In 2011 he cofounded \u003ca href=\"http://www.tomkatsf.com/\">Tomkat Asian Street food truck\u003c/a>. Bay Area Bites caught up with Danny recently and his comments have been edited for length and clarity. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: You have a background in design via fashion and home décor and your father was a bartender and chef here in the Bay Area. How does that creativity come into play at work and in your life?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Louie:\u003c/strong> I approach everything I do, be it at work or play, with a vision of how it will play out. I see it before it materializes and that is my creative process. My upbringing and surroundings heavily influenced my approach to life. That rich cultural tapestry is present in my work. In my building of a cocktail I envision an entire sensory experience: flavor combinations, texture, temperature, as well as experiences and memories.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Do you have any tips handed down from your folks or your wife Lisa?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Louie:\u003c/strong> The greatest advice I have gotten from my parents and strangely it is the same from my wife, is to keep an open mind, to slow down and appreciate all of the \"little\" influences around you. You should observe and then make it your own.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: This year marked a change at Alembic since Daniel Hyatt left. Working with Ethan Terry you were able to add your own personal touch and service style to the cocktail menu. What has that process been like for you as a bartender and manager?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Louie:\u003c/strong>I am doing what I've always dreamed I could do here. I was fortunate to work under Daniel Hyatt and it was an immense learning experience. And now I am able to create the cocktail menu and to work alongside an influential talent and friend, Ethan Terry--we are able to carry on the unique experience that is Alembic. I am truly blessed to be able to put my signature on such a legendary endeavor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Where is the Bay Area when it comes to appreciating the craft and history of cocktails?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Louie:\u003c/strong> The Bay Area has been somewhat in the drivers seat of the movement. For years. We in the local industry strive to maintain the integrity of the craft through exposure in education and having such a tightly knit family.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: You created the beverage program for Stag Dining Group, an underground pop-up. In 2011 you co-founded Tomkat Asian Street Food truck. How do you juggle so many creative endeavors and what has the pop-up and food truck scene been like for you\u003c/strong>?\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Louie:\u003c/strong> I always needed to keep moving forward and shifting gears to stay interested. The juggling of several projects feeds my need for flux. The food truck scene was a great way for me to be involved in my love of cooking. The pop-up bars are a fun and effective way to gain exposure for the cocktail craft. They offer the opportunity to pair cocktails with food and to play them off of each other.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What are your favorite drinks to make these days? \u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Louie:\u003c/strong> Anything that has a proof of 80+. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What ingredients are you most passionate about today for drinks and why?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Louie:\u003c/strong> Currently, I am really into tea-based cocktails served in teapots. It is also my current passion as an ingredient. I love that it is a flexible and complex starting point for either high or low alcohol-based drinks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Where do you go for inspiration?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Louie:\u003c/strong> My wife and I like to play tourist on our days off. We frequent the Beach, Fort Mason, Aquatic Park, Chinatown and Sutro Heights. People watching, art museums and the opera offer great sources of inspiration as well. We also take a yearly trek to Mexico which is where I also find much of my inspiration. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What does it take to make a great bartender? Any advice for someone starting out?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Louie:\u003c/strong> Understand the true meaning of hospitality then everything else will come in time. Have an open mind and an open palate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_72451\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/casco-da-gama-new.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/casco-da-gama-new.jpg\" alt=\"Vasco da Gama Cocktail. Photo: Noelle Chun & Josh Urich\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-72451\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Vasco da Gama Cocktail. Photo: Noelle Chun & Josh Urich\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>Cocktail Recipe: Vasco da Gama\u003c/h2>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>2 oz Buffalo Trace Bourbon\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3/4 oz garam masala spiced apple syrup*\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 oz \u003ca href=\"http://www.masterofmalt.com/whiskies/caol-ila-12-year-old-whisky/\">Caol Ila 12 year single malt scotch whisky\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nBuild in glass / 4 ice cubes / stir / garnish apple chip\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: *Garam Masala Spiced Apple Syrup\u003c/h3>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>2 tablespoons coriander\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tablespoon cumin\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 cardamom pods\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 teaspoon mustard seeds\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 teaspoons black peppercorn\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 teaspoon cloves\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 cinnamon sticks\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 red chili\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 bay leaves\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3 cups apple cider\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 1/2 cups turbinado sugar\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003col>\n\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>Toast all spices over low heat until fragrant.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Add 3 cups apple cider and bring to a boil.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Add sugar and simmer for 30 minutes\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Let cool and strain before using.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "What's hot in the world of craft cocktails? We talk to Danny Louie, the head bartender at The Alembic. Louie has also worked to start-up food trucks and pop-ups and he shares his recipe for Vasco da gama, an enticing drink for the fall weather.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_72450\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/credit-noelle-chun-and-josh-urich-new.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/credit-noelle-chun-and-josh-urich-new.jpg\" alt=\"Danny Louie at Alembic. Photo: Noelle Chun & Josh Urich\" width=\"640\" height=\"427\" class=\"size-full wp-image-72450\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Danny Louie at Alembic. Photo: Noelle Chun & Josh Urich\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Danny Louie is a creative and mellow force known for his work at \u003ca href=\"http://www.alembicbar.com/\">The Alembic\u003c/a> where he is the Bar Manager. Louie is a San Francisco native and lives in Dogpatch with his wife Lisa Louie, a makeup artist & wardrobe stylist. The couple have two cats: Mao & Django.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Danny says he was raised in an inspirational and innovative environment. His family immigrated from China -- his mother was a seamstress and his father was a bartender and chef. His initial career path focused on pursuing fashion and interior design but he became interested in the food and beverage industry once he started working at the Hotel Sofitel in Redwood Shores. As the head bartender he was able to delve into the craft and history of cocktail making. In 2008 Danny helped open two restaurant hot spots in San Francisco: Dosa & Prospect. He then found a home at The Alembic. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He also teamed up with Ethan Terry, Brandon Josie & Tim Zohn to form Cocktail Lab, a collaboration between bartenders and cocktail enthusiasts focused on bringing together interactive and innovative cocktail techniques and ideas. Danny was also involved in designing the beverage program for the \u003ca href=\"http://stagdining.com/\">Stag Dining Group\u003c/a>, an underground pop-up. In 2011 he cofounded \u003ca href=\"http://www.tomkatsf.com/\">Tomkat Asian Street food truck\u003c/a>. Bay Area Bites caught up with Danny recently and his comments have been edited for length and clarity. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: You have a background in design via fashion and home décor and your father was a bartender and chef here in the Bay Area. How does that creativity come into play at work and in your life?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Louie:\u003c/strong> I approach everything I do, be it at work or play, with a vision of how it will play out. I see it before it materializes and that is my creative process. My upbringing and surroundings heavily influenced my approach to life. That rich cultural tapestry is present in my work. In my building of a cocktail I envision an entire sensory experience: flavor combinations, texture, temperature, as well as experiences and memories.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Do you have any tips handed down from your folks or your wife Lisa?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Louie:\u003c/strong> The greatest advice I have gotten from my parents and strangely it is the same from my wife, is to keep an open mind, to slow down and appreciate all of the \"little\" influences around you. You should observe and then make it your own.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: This year marked a change at Alembic since Daniel Hyatt left. Working with Ethan Terry you were able to add your own personal touch and service style to the cocktail menu. What has that process been like for you as a bartender and manager?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Louie:\u003c/strong>I am doing what I've always dreamed I could do here. I was fortunate to work under Daniel Hyatt and it was an immense learning experience. And now I am able to create the cocktail menu and to work alongside an influential talent and friend, Ethan Terry--we are able to carry on the unique experience that is Alembic. I am truly blessed to be able to put my signature on such a legendary endeavor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Where is the Bay Area when it comes to appreciating the craft and history of cocktails?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Louie:\u003c/strong> The Bay Area has been somewhat in the drivers seat of the movement. For years. We in the local industry strive to maintain the integrity of the craft through exposure in education and having such a tightly knit family.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: You created the beverage program for Stag Dining Group, an underground pop-up. In 2011 you co-founded Tomkat Asian Street Food truck. How do you juggle so many creative endeavors and what has the pop-up and food truck scene been like for you\u003c/strong>?\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Louie:\u003c/strong> I always needed to keep moving forward and shifting gears to stay interested. The juggling of several projects feeds my need for flux. The food truck scene was a great way for me to be involved in my love of cooking. The pop-up bars are a fun and effective way to gain exposure for the cocktail craft. They offer the opportunity to pair cocktails with food and to play them off of each other.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What are your favorite drinks to make these days? \u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Louie:\u003c/strong> Anything that has a proof of 80+. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What ingredients are you most passionate about today for drinks and why?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Louie:\u003c/strong> Currently, I am really into tea-based cocktails served in teapots. It is also my current passion as an ingredient. I love that it is a flexible and complex starting point for either high or low alcohol-based drinks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Where do you go for inspiration?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Louie:\u003c/strong> My wife and I like to play tourist on our days off. We frequent the Beach, Fort Mason, Aquatic Park, Chinatown and Sutro Heights. People watching, art museums and the opera offer great sources of inspiration as well. We also take a yearly trek to Mexico which is where I also find much of my inspiration. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What does it take to make a great bartender? Any advice for someone starting out?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Louie:\u003c/strong> Understand the true meaning of hospitality then everything else will come in time. Have an open mind and an open palate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_72451\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/casco-da-gama-new.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/casco-da-gama-new.jpg\" alt=\"Vasco da Gama Cocktail. Photo: Noelle Chun & Josh Urich\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-72451\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Vasco da Gama Cocktail. Photo: Noelle Chun & Josh Urich\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>Cocktail Recipe: Vasco da Gama\u003c/h2>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>2 oz Buffalo Trace Bourbon\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3/4 oz garam masala spiced apple syrup*\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 oz \u003ca href=\"http://www.masterofmalt.com/whiskies/caol-ila-12-year-old-whisky/\">Caol Ila 12 year single malt scotch whisky\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nBuild in glass / 4 ice cubes / stir / garnish apple chip\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: *Garam Masala Spiced Apple Syrup\u003c/h3>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>2 tablespoons coriander\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tablespoon cumin\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 cardamom pods\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 teaspoon mustard seeds\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 teaspoons black peppercorn\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 teaspoon cloves\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 cinnamon sticks\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 red chili\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 bay leaves\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3 cups apple cider\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 1/2 cups turbinado sugar\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003col>\n\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>Toast all spices over low heat until fragrant.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Add 3 cups apple cider and bring to a boil.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Add sugar and simmer for 30 minutes\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Let cool and strain before using.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "Holiday Spirit: The Coping Mechanism",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_72410\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/Coping-Mechanism.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/Coping-Mechanism.jpg\" alt=\"Coping Mechanism: It's that special Holiday time of the year, which can only mean one thing: like many Americans, I need a drink.\" width=\"560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-72410\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">It's that special Holiday time of the year, which can only mean one thing: like many Americans, I need a drink.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>I've seen Halloween candy on store shelves as early as August. Department stores piping Christmas music in September. If companies start merchandising Veteran's Day, I may begin to foam at the mouth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By Thanksgiving, I've just about had it, which is a pity since it happens to be one of my favorite holidays of the year. But now that it's riding tandem with Hanukkah, I very well may have to lock myself in the bathroom to have my quiet Holiday breakdown.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And I've found the ideal cocktail to take in there with me-- it's a take on The Filibuster cocktail by Erik Adkins of Oakland's Flora restaurant, but altered just enough to help me cope while appearing festive enough to look as though my Holiday spirits are high.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Which they will be, thanks to the three ounces of booze per cocktail.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>The Coping Mechanism\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>Short of a magic wand to transport you elsewhere, this cocktail has everything you need to help cope with holiday get-togethers: plenty of liquor to take the edge off; maple syrup, which acts as a mild anti-depressant; egg white, which provides enough protein to help you forgo a plate of dry turducken; and lemon juice, which is excellent for softening dry elbows. And that little hint of nutmeg screams \"Thanksgiving\" just loud enough so you don't have to.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the most satisfying part of this cocktail is in the making of it. It must be shaken to achieve the eggnog-esque foam. And quite vigorously. It's a marvelous way to vent one's aggression, seasonal or otherwise.\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>3 ounces of bourbon. Use a decent one. Especially if someone else is paying for it.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 ounce dark amber maple syrup. I like using Canadian because they seem as baffled over what to do with Thanksgiving as I do.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>The juice of half a lemon. Either Eureka or Meyer will do just fine.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>The white of one egg freshly liberated from a moderately healthy chicken. Turkey eggs are to be avoided. As are turkeys in general.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Freshly grated nutmeg\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Plenty of ice\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003col>\n\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>Into a large cocktail shaker, drop the ice. Pour over bourbon, maple syrup, lemon juice, and egg white. Close lid firmly.\n\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\nWrap a clean kitchen towel around the shaker to protect your hands from the cold. The wearing of mittens for this exercise is not recommended. Begin to agitate the contents of your shaker.\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>\u003cem>Step One:\u003c/em> Start the exercise as a pleasant dance routine-- a conga tempo works very nicely in this case.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003cem>Step Two:\u003c/em> Increase the vigor of your shake, imagining that what you hold in your hands is not a mixology vessel, but rather the neck of your least favorite person in the room.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003cem>Step Three:\u003c/em> Feel incredible remorse at your formerly violent thoughts towards said person, crumble to the floor in a fit of tears. Your body's own shaking will do the rest of the work for you.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cli>Remove the lid of your shaker, strain the frothy contents into a cocktail glass, garnish with a pinch of nutmeg, consume the drink in one to two large gulps, and tell everyone who's been staring at you for the past three minutes that you're just fine.\n\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Repeat as often as necessary.\u003c/li>\n\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Short of a magic wand to transport you elsewhere, this cocktail has everything you need to help cope with holiday get-togethers.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_72410\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/Coping-Mechanism.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/Coping-Mechanism.jpg\" alt=\"Coping Mechanism: It's that special Holiday time of the year, which can only mean one thing: like many Americans, I need a drink.\" width=\"560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-72410\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">It's that special Holiday time of the year, which can only mean one thing: like many Americans, I need a drink.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>I've seen Halloween candy on store shelves as early as August. Department stores piping Christmas music in September. If companies start merchandising Veteran's Day, I may begin to foam at the mouth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By Thanksgiving, I've just about had it, which is a pity since it happens to be one of my favorite holidays of the year. But now that it's riding tandem with Hanukkah, I very well may have to lock myself in the bathroom to have my quiet Holiday breakdown.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And I've found the ideal cocktail to take in there with me-- it's a take on The Filibuster cocktail by Erik Adkins of Oakland's Flora restaurant, but altered just enough to help me cope while appearing festive enough to look as though my Holiday spirits are high.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Which they will be, thanks to the three ounces of booze per cocktail.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>The Coping Mechanism\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>Short of a magic wand to transport you elsewhere, this cocktail has everything you need to help cope with holiday get-togethers: plenty of liquor to take the edge off; maple syrup, which acts as a mild anti-depressant; egg white, which provides enough protein to help you forgo a plate of dry turducken; and lemon juice, which is excellent for softening dry elbows. And that little hint of nutmeg screams \"Thanksgiving\" just loud enough so you don't have to.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the most satisfying part of this cocktail is in the making of it. It must be shaken to achieve the eggnog-esque foam. And quite vigorously. It's a marvelous way to vent one's aggression, seasonal or otherwise.\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>3 ounces of bourbon. Use a decent one. Especially if someone else is paying for it.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 ounce dark amber maple syrup. I like using Canadian because they seem as baffled over what to do with Thanksgiving as I do.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>The juice of half a lemon. Either Eureka or Meyer will do just fine.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>The white of one egg freshly liberated from a moderately healthy chicken. Turkey eggs are to be avoided. As are turkeys in general.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Freshly grated nutmeg\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Plenty of ice\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003col>\n\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>Into a large cocktail shaker, drop the ice. Pour over bourbon, maple syrup, lemon juice, and egg white. Close lid firmly.\n\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\nWrap a clean kitchen towel around the shaker to protect your hands from the cold. The wearing of mittens for this exercise is not recommended. Begin to agitate the contents of your shaker.\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>\u003cem>Step One:\u003c/em> Start the exercise as a pleasant dance routine-- a conga tempo works very nicely in this case.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003cem>Step Two:\u003c/em> Increase the vigor of your shake, imagining that what you hold in your hands is not a mixology vessel, but rather the neck of your least favorite person in the room.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003cem>Step Three:\u003c/em> Feel incredible remorse at your formerly violent thoughts towards said person, crumble to the floor in a fit of tears. Your body's own shaking will do the rest of the work for you.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cli>Remove the lid of your shaker, strain the frothy contents into a cocktail glass, garnish with a pinch of nutmeg, consume the drink in one to two large gulps, and tell everyone who's been staring at you for the past three minutes that you're just fine.\n\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Repeat as often as necessary.\u003c/li>\n\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "DIY: Concord Grape Jelly",
"title": "DIY: Concord Grape Jelly",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_71825\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/final-jelly-in-jar.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/final-jelly-in-jar.jpg\" alt=\"Homemade grape jelly captures some of the best of the early fall harvest. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"753\" class=\"size-full wp-image-71825\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Homemade grape jelly captures some of the best of the early fall harvest. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Given their grocery store ubiquity, it is easy to forget that grapes are best enjoyed seasonably. The best fall grapes are truly ephemeral, appearing on shelves as soon as the air begins to chill, and departing far too soon afterward. In California, much of the attention goes to those destined for wine barrels: cabernet, chardonnay, merlot, and pinot. But fresh table grapes, those with hearty skins and copious seeds, deserve just as much attention.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Gobbling down pounds of the fresh fruit are a great way to embrace their fleeting season, especially when paired with a nutty blue cheese or a few slices of smoky speck, but I wanted to harness their sweet-tart juice for the winter to come. I thought of conserves and jams, but couldn’t stop imagining a perfectly giggly and brilliantly purple jar of jelly.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here’s the catch: I am not, and have never been, a huge grape jelly fan. Something about the combination of cooked Welch’s and corn syrup has never been an appealing condiment for crackers or almond butter sandwiches. Yet I’d never tried a homemade version. Besides, DIY recipes are always the most fun when they transform an unlikeable grocery store item into a winning pantry staple.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Jelly-making isn’t terribly difficult, but there are quite a few steps to get it right. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>First, you’ll want to sterilize your jars to get ready for canning. I use my biggest stockpot with a small canning rack set in the bottom. It’ll fit 5 half-pint jars—perfect for this recipe. You can get the jars boiling while you prep the fruit; they’ll need a full 10 minutes to sterilize, and then you can leave them in the pot covered over low heat until you’re ready to add the jelly. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_71831\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/Green-grapes-are-good.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/Green-grapes-are-good.jpg\" alt=\"Under-ripe fruit contributes extra pectin to the jelly. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"752\" class=\"size-full wp-image-71831\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Under-ripe fruit contributes extra pectin to the jelly. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>I used fat, juicy Concords for my jelly, but any flavorful grape with seeds will work. I like to weigh out the grapes inside my colander so they can go straight into the sink for a wash after weighing. Be sure to pick through the grapes to remove any stems, leaves, and moldy or dried grapes. If you see any unripe green grapes in the bunch, keep them. Underripe fruit has more pectin than ripe fruit, so it’s good to have a mix. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_71829\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/Granny-smith.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/Granny-smith.jpg\" alt=\"A chopped whole Granny Smith, core and all, adds sour notes in addition to valuable added pectin. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"752\" class=\"size-full wp-image-71829\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A chopped whole Granny Smith, core and all, adds sour notes in addition to valuable added pectin. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>I also like to add a whole Granny Smith apple, cut into big pieces (core included) into the pot with the grapes. Granny Smiths are naturally high in pectin—they’re actually used in many DIY pectin recipes—and I like the contrasting sourness they contribute to the otherwise sweet jelly.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once you’ve got the fruit prepped, place it in a large pot, and give it a few good mashes with a potato masher to get things going. Bring the fruit and juice to a boil, and then cook the fruit until the apples are softened. Periodically smash grapes while the fruit is cooking to make sure they release all of their juice. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_71824\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/draining-fruit.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/draining-fruit.jpg\" alt=\"I like to use a cheesecloth-lined colander to drain the cooked fruit—it’s cheaper and more readily available than a jelly bag, and it is just as re-usable. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"747\" class=\"size-full wp-image-71824\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">I like to use a cheesecloth-lined colander to drain the cooked fruit—it’s cheaper and more readily available than a jelly bag, and it is just as re-usable. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Hard-core jelly fanatics often say that the only way to drain jelly is to let it slowly drip through a jelly bag overnight. A second straining the next morning is not unheard of. I am not that much of a fanatic. Instead, I drain the juice through a cheesecloth-lined colander. I try not to press on the grapes too much since it will make the final jelly cloudier, but a little nudge or two doesn’t hurt anything. After about 20 minutes, the draining will slow down, and you can discard the pulp. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To determine the amount of sugar you’ll need to set the jelly, you’ll need to measure out the juice. I like to use equal parts sugar and juice, by volume. This means if you have 4 1/2 cups juice, you’ll need to add 4 1/2 cups sugar. Add the measured juice and sugar back to the pot (which you’ve cleaned in the meantime, right?). \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_71822\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/black-pepper-and-fennel.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/black-pepper-and-fennel.jpg\" alt=\"It’s easy to flavor jellies with herbs and spices. Tie them up an a little packet of cheesecloth and throw add it to the pot with the juice and sugar. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-71822\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">It’s easy to flavor jellies with herbs and spices. Tie them up an a little packet of cheesecloth and throw add it to the pot with the juice and sugar. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>If you want to flavor your jelly in any way, now is the time. Tie up any spices or herbs in a small packet using cheesecloth and a bit of butcher’s twine. Here I’ve got a tablespoon each of fennel and black peppercorns. Leave enough string to tie the packet to your pot handle so you can fetch it out easily. Place the packet in the juice and sugar mixture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_71823\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/canning-set-up.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/canning-set-up.jpg\" alt=\"I don’t have a counter next to my stove, so I place a towel-lined baking sheet next to my boiling jelly as a landing pad for the mason jars (sterilizing in the stockpot in the back). The jelly should be cooking at a rolling boil, pictured bottom right. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"752\" class=\"size-full wp-image-71823\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">I don’t have a counter next to my stove, so I place a towel-lined baking sheet next to my boiling jelly as a landing pad for the mason jars (sterilizing in the stockpot in the back). The jelly should be cooking at a rolling boil, pictured bottom right. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Bring the juice and sugar mixture to a boil over medium-high heat while stirring to dissolve the sugar. Once the mixture reaches a vigorous boil, toss in a little butter. In what seems like an act of magic, the butterfat will help reduce foaming as the jelly boils. It won’t prevent boiling over, so be sure to stir regularly as the jelly cooks. If you’re using a seasoning packet, taste occasionally as you’re cooking the jelly to gauge the flavor. Once you can taste your seasonings, remove the seasoning packet.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_71821\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/222-degrees.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/222-degrees.jpg\" alt=\"I like to cook jelly until I can get a reading 222 degrees; this helps guarantee that the rest of the pot is at least at 220 degrees, which is the set point for sugar. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-71821\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">I like to cook jelly until I can get a reading 222 degrees; this helps guarantee that the rest of the pot is at least at 220 degrees, which is the set point for sugar. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>I tried making the jelly with and without pectin, but found that the jelly made with pectin needed far too much sugar to set properly. I wanted to taste grapes, not sugar. To set the jelly without pectin, you need to cook the jelly until it reaches a temperature of 220 degrees throughout. But don’t just look for a single 220-degree reading. There are often pockets of higher temperature sugar in the pot, so be sure to give the jelly mixture a few good stirs and check the temperature several times. As extra insurance, I’ll often cook the jelly until I get a reading of 222; that way, I know that the rest of the jelly is at least 220 degrees. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_71828\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/funneling-jelly.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/funneling-jelly.jpg\" alt=\"I use a standard size canning funnel to help fill the jars. This jar needs just a little more jelly to fill it within 1/4-inch headspace. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"752\" class=\"size-full wp-image-71828\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">I use a standard size canning funnel to help fill the jars. This jar needs just a little more jelly to fill it within 1/4-inch headspace. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Carefully remove the jars from the canning pot. Use a ladle and canning funnel to fill the jars with the jelly mixture, leaving 1/4 inch of headspace between the top of the jelly and the top of the jar. Wipe any jelly drips from the rims of the jars with a wet towel dipped in hot water. Top the jars with the flat lid and screw on the rings just until it is closed (“finger-tip” tight). You don’t want to close the jars too tightly because you want oxygen to bubble out while the jars are boiling. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Return the filled jars to the canning and the water back to a rolling boil. Once the water reaches a boil, set a timer for 5 minutes. Many older canning books call for at least 10 minutes of boiling because it was believed that anything canned using a water bath need at least that long to reach 210 degrees in the center of the jar. But since the jelly is not dense and the jars are small, they only need 5 minutes to reach the proper temperature. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Remove the jars from the canner and place them on the towel-lined counter or baking sheet. Let them cool completely before storing them. You should hear all of the lids “ping” shut; if not, you’ll need to refrigerate any jars with imperfect seals. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Spooned atop a schmear of homemade cream cheese, this grape jelly is worlds away from the dreaded Welch’s of my youth. The sweet, faintly musty flavor of the concords truly shines through; it’s a great snack today, but will be even better come January when fall grapes are a distant memory.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_71826\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/final-jelly-on-cracker.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/final-jelly-on-cracker.jpg\" alt=\"This grape jelly pairs well with cool, spreadable homemade cream cheese and a hearty whole grain cracker. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"751\" class=\"size-full wp-image-71826\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">This grape jelly pairs well with cool, spreadable homemade cream cheese and a hearty whole grain cracker. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: Concord Grape Jelly\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes about 5 half-pint jars\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>5\tpounds concord grapes or other flavorful, seeded grape\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1\tGranny Smith apple, chopped with core, seeds, and skin\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>4–5\tcups granulated sugar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2\ttablespoons seasonings like lemon peel, ginger, black peppercorns, fennel seeds, or rosemary sprigs (optional)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1\tpacket liquid pectin\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4\tteaspoon unsalted butter\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Equipment:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>1\tcanning set-up including large stockpot or canning pot, canning rack, jar lifter, and jar funnel\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>6\thalf-pint mason jars\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1\tcolander\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1\tlarge bowl\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>cheesecloth\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003col>\n\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>First, sterilize six half-pint canning jars: Place jars on a rack set in the canning pot. Cover the jars with water by at least 2 inches. Bring water to a rolling boil, and let jars boil for 10 minutes. Reduce heat to low, cover pot, and let jars sit in hot water until jelly is finished cooking.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Place jar lids and bands in small bowl, and ladle boiling water from canning pot to cover completely. Let the lids sit in the water until the jelly is finished cooking.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>To make the jelly: Place the grapes and apple in large pot or Dutch oven over medium heat. Smash a few grapes with potato masher to release juice. Bring mixture to a boil, and cook, smashing occasionally, until the grapes are very juicy and the apples are softened, 10 to 15 minutes. Transfer to cheesecloth-lined colander set in large bowl. Let juice drip gently until pulp is relatively dry, about 20 minutes. Do not squeeze or press on the pulp. While grapes are draining, clean out pot.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Measure the volume of juice. You should have between 4 and 5 cups. Measure out an equal amount of sugar by volume.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Combine juice and sugar in now-clean pot. If using seasoning, tie spices and/or herbs in small packet of cheesecloth. Tie packet to the handle of the pot and place packet in the juice.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>While stirring to dissolve the sugar, bring mixture to a vigorous boil over medium-high heat. Add butter, and stir to dissolve. Continue to boil jelly, stirring regularly to prevent boiling over, until the jelly mixture registers 220-222 degrees. This should take about 20 minutes. Remove from heat, discard seasoning packet, and skim off any foam from surface of the jelly.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Carefully remove jars from canning pot, draining water from jars back into pot, and place on towel-lined counter or baking sheet next to the cooked jelly.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Using a ladle and funnel, pour the jelly into the hot, sterilized jars leaving 1/4 inch of headspace. Wipe rim with a wet paper towel or clean dishtowel dipped in hot water. Top with flat lid. Screw on ring finger-tight.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Place jars on rack in canning pot and bring water to a rolling boil. Rapidly boil jars for 5 minutes. Submerge the jars in a pot of water and boil for 5 minutes. Carefully remove the jars and let cool on towel-lined counter. Check the jar lids to make sure they’ve fully sealed; refrigerate any jars with imperfect seals.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "All too often, grape jelly gets the short stick. Jars from the grocery store are nothing to treasure, but a homemade version made at the peak of the grape season is another story—take it from a vocal critic of Welch's. Make it yourself with this step-by-step DIY recipe.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_71825\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/final-jelly-in-jar.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/final-jelly-in-jar.jpg\" alt=\"Homemade grape jelly captures some of the best of the early fall harvest. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"753\" class=\"size-full wp-image-71825\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Homemade grape jelly captures some of the best of the early fall harvest. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Given their grocery store ubiquity, it is easy to forget that grapes are best enjoyed seasonably. The best fall grapes are truly ephemeral, appearing on shelves as soon as the air begins to chill, and departing far too soon afterward. In California, much of the attention goes to those destined for wine barrels: cabernet, chardonnay, merlot, and pinot. But fresh table grapes, those with hearty skins and copious seeds, deserve just as much attention.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Gobbling down pounds of the fresh fruit are a great way to embrace their fleeting season, especially when paired with a nutty blue cheese or a few slices of smoky speck, but I wanted to harness their sweet-tart juice for the winter to come. I thought of conserves and jams, but couldn’t stop imagining a perfectly giggly and brilliantly purple jar of jelly.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here’s the catch: I am not, and have never been, a huge grape jelly fan. Something about the combination of cooked Welch’s and corn syrup has never been an appealing condiment for crackers or almond butter sandwiches. Yet I’d never tried a homemade version. Besides, DIY recipes are always the most fun when they transform an unlikeable grocery store item into a winning pantry staple.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Jelly-making isn’t terribly difficult, but there are quite a few steps to get it right. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>First, you’ll want to sterilize your jars to get ready for canning. I use my biggest stockpot with a small canning rack set in the bottom. It’ll fit 5 half-pint jars—perfect for this recipe. You can get the jars boiling while you prep the fruit; they’ll need a full 10 minutes to sterilize, and then you can leave them in the pot covered over low heat until you’re ready to add the jelly. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_71831\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/Green-grapes-are-good.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/Green-grapes-are-good.jpg\" alt=\"Under-ripe fruit contributes extra pectin to the jelly. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"752\" class=\"size-full wp-image-71831\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Under-ripe fruit contributes extra pectin to the jelly. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>I used fat, juicy Concords for my jelly, but any flavorful grape with seeds will work. I like to weigh out the grapes inside my colander so they can go straight into the sink for a wash after weighing. Be sure to pick through the grapes to remove any stems, leaves, and moldy or dried grapes. If you see any unripe green grapes in the bunch, keep them. Underripe fruit has more pectin than ripe fruit, so it’s good to have a mix. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_71829\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/Granny-smith.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/Granny-smith.jpg\" alt=\"A chopped whole Granny Smith, core and all, adds sour notes in addition to valuable added pectin. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"752\" class=\"size-full wp-image-71829\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A chopped whole Granny Smith, core and all, adds sour notes in addition to valuable added pectin. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>I also like to add a whole Granny Smith apple, cut into big pieces (core included) into the pot with the grapes. Granny Smiths are naturally high in pectin—they’re actually used in many DIY pectin recipes—and I like the contrasting sourness they contribute to the otherwise sweet jelly.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once you’ve got the fruit prepped, place it in a large pot, and give it a few good mashes with a potato masher to get things going. Bring the fruit and juice to a boil, and then cook the fruit until the apples are softened. Periodically smash grapes while the fruit is cooking to make sure they release all of their juice. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_71824\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/draining-fruit.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/draining-fruit.jpg\" alt=\"I like to use a cheesecloth-lined colander to drain the cooked fruit—it’s cheaper and more readily available than a jelly bag, and it is just as re-usable. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"747\" class=\"size-full wp-image-71824\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">I like to use a cheesecloth-lined colander to drain the cooked fruit—it’s cheaper and more readily available than a jelly bag, and it is just as re-usable. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Hard-core jelly fanatics often say that the only way to drain jelly is to let it slowly drip through a jelly bag overnight. A second straining the next morning is not unheard of. I am not that much of a fanatic. Instead, I drain the juice through a cheesecloth-lined colander. I try not to press on the grapes too much since it will make the final jelly cloudier, but a little nudge or two doesn’t hurt anything. After about 20 minutes, the draining will slow down, and you can discard the pulp. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To determine the amount of sugar you’ll need to set the jelly, you’ll need to measure out the juice. I like to use equal parts sugar and juice, by volume. This means if you have 4 1/2 cups juice, you’ll need to add 4 1/2 cups sugar. Add the measured juice and sugar back to the pot (which you’ve cleaned in the meantime, right?). \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_71822\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/black-pepper-and-fennel.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/black-pepper-and-fennel.jpg\" alt=\"It’s easy to flavor jellies with herbs and spices. Tie them up an a little packet of cheesecloth and throw add it to the pot with the juice and sugar. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-71822\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">It’s easy to flavor jellies with herbs and spices. Tie them up an a little packet of cheesecloth and throw add it to the pot with the juice and sugar. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>If you want to flavor your jelly in any way, now is the time. Tie up any spices or herbs in a small packet using cheesecloth and a bit of butcher’s twine. Here I’ve got a tablespoon each of fennel and black peppercorns. Leave enough string to tie the packet to your pot handle so you can fetch it out easily. Place the packet in the juice and sugar mixture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_71823\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/canning-set-up.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/canning-set-up.jpg\" alt=\"I don’t have a counter next to my stove, so I place a towel-lined baking sheet next to my boiling jelly as a landing pad for the mason jars (sterilizing in the stockpot in the back). The jelly should be cooking at a rolling boil, pictured bottom right. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"752\" class=\"size-full wp-image-71823\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">I don’t have a counter next to my stove, so I place a towel-lined baking sheet next to my boiling jelly as a landing pad for the mason jars (sterilizing in the stockpot in the back). The jelly should be cooking at a rolling boil, pictured bottom right. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Bring the juice and sugar mixture to a boil over medium-high heat while stirring to dissolve the sugar. Once the mixture reaches a vigorous boil, toss in a little butter. In what seems like an act of magic, the butterfat will help reduce foaming as the jelly boils. It won’t prevent boiling over, so be sure to stir regularly as the jelly cooks. If you’re using a seasoning packet, taste occasionally as you’re cooking the jelly to gauge the flavor. Once you can taste your seasonings, remove the seasoning packet.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_71821\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/222-degrees.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/222-degrees.jpg\" alt=\"I like to cook jelly until I can get a reading 222 degrees; this helps guarantee that the rest of the pot is at least at 220 degrees, which is the set point for sugar. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-71821\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">I like to cook jelly until I can get a reading 222 degrees; this helps guarantee that the rest of the pot is at least at 220 degrees, which is the set point for sugar. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>I tried making the jelly with and without pectin, but found that the jelly made with pectin needed far too much sugar to set properly. I wanted to taste grapes, not sugar. To set the jelly without pectin, you need to cook the jelly until it reaches a temperature of 220 degrees throughout. But don’t just look for a single 220-degree reading. There are often pockets of higher temperature sugar in the pot, so be sure to give the jelly mixture a few good stirs and check the temperature several times. As extra insurance, I’ll often cook the jelly until I get a reading of 222; that way, I know that the rest of the jelly is at least 220 degrees. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_71828\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/funneling-jelly.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/funneling-jelly.jpg\" alt=\"I use a standard size canning funnel to help fill the jars. This jar needs just a little more jelly to fill it within 1/4-inch headspace. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"752\" class=\"size-full wp-image-71828\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">I use a standard size canning funnel to help fill the jars. This jar needs just a little more jelly to fill it within 1/4-inch headspace. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Carefully remove the jars from the canning pot. Use a ladle and canning funnel to fill the jars with the jelly mixture, leaving 1/4 inch of headspace between the top of the jelly and the top of the jar. Wipe any jelly drips from the rims of the jars with a wet towel dipped in hot water. Top the jars with the flat lid and screw on the rings just until it is closed (“finger-tip” tight). You don’t want to close the jars too tightly because you want oxygen to bubble out while the jars are boiling. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Return the filled jars to the canning and the water back to a rolling boil. Once the water reaches a boil, set a timer for 5 minutes. Many older canning books call for at least 10 minutes of boiling because it was believed that anything canned using a water bath need at least that long to reach 210 degrees in the center of the jar. But since the jelly is not dense and the jars are small, they only need 5 minutes to reach the proper temperature. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Remove the jars from the canner and place them on the towel-lined counter or baking sheet. Let them cool completely before storing them. You should hear all of the lids “ping” shut; if not, you’ll need to refrigerate any jars with imperfect seals. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Spooned atop a schmear of homemade cream cheese, this grape jelly is worlds away from the dreaded Welch’s of my youth. The sweet, faintly musty flavor of the concords truly shines through; it’s a great snack today, but will be even better come January when fall grapes are a distant memory.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_71826\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/final-jelly-on-cracker.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/final-jelly-on-cracker.jpg\" alt=\"This grape jelly pairs well with cool, spreadable homemade cream cheese and a hearty whole grain cracker. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"751\" class=\"size-full wp-image-71826\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">This grape jelly pairs well with cool, spreadable homemade cream cheese and a hearty whole grain cracker. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: Concord Grape Jelly\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes about 5 half-pint jars\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>5\tpounds concord grapes or other flavorful, seeded grape\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1\tGranny Smith apple, chopped with core, seeds, and skin\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>4–5\tcups granulated sugar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2\ttablespoons seasonings like lemon peel, ginger, black peppercorns, fennel seeds, or rosemary sprigs (optional)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1\tpacket liquid pectin\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4\tteaspoon unsalted butter\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Equipment:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>1\tcanning set-up including large stockpot or canning pot, canning rack, jar lifter, and jar funnel\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>6\thalf-pint mason jars\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1\tcolander\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1\tlarge bowl\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>cheesecloth\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003col>\n\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>First, sterilize six half-pint canning jars: Place jars on a rack set in the canning pot. Cover the jars with water by at least 2 inches. Bring water to a rolling boil, and let jars boil for 10 minutes. Reduce heat to low, cover pot, and let jars sit in hot water until jelly is finished cooking.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Place jar lids and bands in small bowl, and ladle boiling water from canning pot to cover completely. Let the lids sit in the water until the jelly is finished cooking.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>To make the jelly: Place the grapes and apple in large pot or Dutch oven over medium heat. Smash a few grapes with potato masher to release juice. Bring mixture to a boil, and cook, smashing occasionally, until the grapes are very juicy and the apples are softened, 10 to 15 minutes. Transfer to cheesecloth-lined colander set in large bowl. Let juice drip gently until pulp is relatively dry, about 20 minutes. Do not squeeze or press on the pulp. While grapes are draining, clean out pot.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Measure the volume of juice. You should have between 4 and 5 cups. Measure out an equal amount of sugar by volume.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Combine juice and sugar in now-clean pot. If using seasoning, tie spices and/or herbs in small packet of cheesecloth. Tie packet to the handle of the pot and place packet in the juice.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>While stirring to dissolve the sugar, bring mixture to a vigorous boil over medium-high heat. Add butter, and stir to dissolve. Continue to boil jelly, stirring regularly to prevent boiling over, until the jelly mixture registers 220-222 degrees. This should take about 20 minutes. Remove from heat, discard seasoning packet, and skim off any foam from surface of the jelly.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Carefully remove jars from canning pot, draining water from jars back into pot, and place on towel-lined counter or baking sheet next to the cooked jelly.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Using a ladle and funnel, pour the jelly into the hot, sterilized jars leaving 1/4 inch of headspace. Wipe rim with a wet paper towel or clean dishtowel dipped in hot water. Top with flat lid. Screw on ring finger-tight.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Place jars on rack in canning pot and bring water to a rolling boil. Rapidly boil jars for 5 minutes. Submerge the jars in a pot of water and boil for 5 minutes. Carefully remove the jars and let cool on towel-lined counter. Check the jar lids to make sure they’ve fully sealed; refrigerate any jars with imperfect seals.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_71082\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/icy-vs-spicy-Collage.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-71082\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/icy-vs-spicy-Collage.jpg\" alt=\"In summertime, some like it cold and some like it hot. Left photo: Managementboy, wikimedia commons; Right photo: McKay Savage, Flickr\" width=\"1000\" height=\"690\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">In summertime, some like it cold and some like it hot. Left photo: Managementboy, \u003ca href=\"http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Ice_cream_cone_.jpg\">wikimedia commons\u003c/a>; Right photo: McKay Savage, \u003ca href=\"http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:India_-_Koyambedu_Market_-_Chili_Peppers_01_(3986954258).jpg\">wikimedia commons\u003c/a>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Like a dripping popsicle in an overheated toddler’s hand, I’m melting in Kyoto’s sultry, summer streets. Luckily, my friend Tomoko knows the perfect thing to revive me: a cooling lunch of icy noodles at a restaurant perched atop a cascading mountain stream. The only hitch -- and part of the fun -- is that we’ll have to catch our somen noodles (with chopsticks, of course) as they whiz down the cold water rushing through a bamboo tube. \u003cem>Nagashi Somen\u003c/em> or “flowing noodles” is a traditional treat to cope with Japan’s sauna-like summers. Some families erect a backyard bamboo course to delight the kids -- \u003ca href=\"http://vimeo.com/47912950\">as in this video.\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_71083\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/Nagashi-somen-Collage.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-71083\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/Nagashi-somen-Collage.jpg\" alt=\"Catch your noodles before they get away. Nagashi Somen, Kibune, Japan. Photo: Anna Mindess\" width=\"1000\" height=\"798\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Catch your noodles before they slip away. Nagashi Somen, Kibune, Japan. Photos: Anna Mindess, Tomoko Yoshihara\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Near Kyoto, \u003ca href=\"http://hirobun.co.jp/\">only one restaurant\u003c/a> serves this summertime-only, snatch-your-noodle-experience. Tomoko and I take a 20-minute train ride and a 10-minute bus ride to the village of Kibune, nestled in a forested valley. Then we walk up a narrow mountain road, past picturesque inns and high-end kaiseki restaurants set on platforms over the gushing river. Even though it’s an uphill trek to the last eating spot at the top of the path, the forest's shaded greenery, undulating thrum of cicadas and refreshing river air feels revitalizing -- plus it’s twenty degrees cooler than in the city.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This popular restaurant adds a stainless steel gutter inside the traditional bamboo pipe -- perhaps for ease of cleanup or added speed? The crowd of diners are seated ten at a time at the noodle bar and treated to bracing breezes from nearby dramatic waterfalls. As the server brings us each a bowl of dipping sauce and pair of chopsticks to nab our noodles, she points out which of the several pipelines are assigned to which diners and the fun begins as slippery strands zoom by hungry patrons. Squeals of delight or frustration are heard all around, followed by murmurs of enjoyment.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tomoko is seated \"downstream\" from me, so she can snag a clump of noodles if I miss it, which I do on the first round. Then she shares her strategy: stand the ends of the chopsticks in the water to act as a dainty dam. It works! My chilled nest of noodles, dipped in tangy sauce, tastes even better for having caught it. Once we all get the hang of it, the challenge is to grab your noodles, take a photo, dip and eat before the next bundle comes whizzing by. You can watch all the diners attempting this juggling act. After a dozen or so rounds, a last tangle of pink noodles silently slides by to announce the final serving.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On our journey back to the city, I ask Tomoko what other foods are eaten in \u003cstrong>Japan\u003c/strong>’s meltingly hot summers. Besides cold noodles (somen, \u003ca href=\"http://www.japanfoodaddict.com/noodles/hiayshi-chuka-reimen/\">reimen\u003c/a> and soba), she tells me that unagi is supposed to supply strength to withstand the withering weather. Plus cooling sweets such as \u003cem>mizu-yokan\u003c/em> (a jelly made with red adzuki beans) and shaved iced desserts like \u003cem>kakigori,\u003c/em> flavored\u003cem> \u003c/em>with green tea or other syrups.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even though our rare Bay Area hot spells are short and blessedly dry,” I start to wonder about \"cooling foods\" in other cultures. So I ask a few Bay Area connections to share their wisdom. (This is just a sampling of cultures. Please feel free to add your favorites).\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_71084\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/icy-desserts-Collage.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-71084\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/icy-desserts-Collage.jpg\" alt=\"Sweet and Icy. Left: Halo-halo, photo: tumbler??. Center: Kakigori, photo: Chris 73, wikimedia commons. Right: Ice Kachang, photo: Anna Mindess\" width=\"1000\" height=\"430\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sweet and Icy. Left: Halo-halo, photo: \u003ca href=\"http://25.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_lju93jDC5M1qhl5rgo1_500.jpg\">tumblr\u003c/a>. Center: Kakigori, photo: Chris 73, \u003ca href=\"http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Macha_kakigori_snow_cone.jpg\">wikimedia commons\u003c/a>. Right: Ice Kachang, photo: Anna Mindess\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Sweet and Icy\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>Aileen Suzara, educator, natural chef and environmental justice advocate, who often writes about \u003cstrong>Filipino\u003c/strong> cuisine at \u003ca href=\"http://www.kitchenkwento.typepad.com/\">Kitchen Kwento, \u003c/a> suggests the classic Filipino icy treat, \u003cem>halo-halo\u003c/em>, “literally a mix-mix\" with a range of possible ingredients. The layered medley may include jackfruit, kaong palm fruit, pineapple gelatin, red beans, a scoop of shaved ice, toasted rice pinipig or \u003cem>ube\u003c/em> (purple yam) ice cream, topped with evaporated milk, leche flan and strands of coconut.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This reminds me of Ice Kachang, a mountain of shaved ice, doused with syrups and toppings, which I sampled \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/11/17/sweet-treats-in-food-obsessed-singapore/\">on a trip to \u003cstrong>Singapore\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>, another steamy city. \u003cstrong>Korean\u003c/strong> \u003cem>Pat-bing-soo\u003c/em> also features shaved ice, topped with sweet red bean paste and mochi. And of course, even a day in the 70’s would be an excuse for San Franciscans to head over to \u003ca href=\"http://biritecreamery.com/\">Bi-Rite Creamery\u003c/a> for a scoop of their salted caramel or balsamic strawberry ice cream. Ironically, this\u003ca href=\"http://healthland.time.com/2013/06/15/surprising-foods-that-toy-with-body-temperature/\"> article in Time\u003c/a> reveals that slurping ice cream actually heats up the body, thanks to its fat content. (Oh, now I know why SF is such an ice cream-crazed city -- it makes us warmer!)\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Soup (cold or hot)\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>While we’re on the subject of chilled dishes, people in many countries enjoy cold soups during the hottest months -- think \u003cstrong>Spanish\u003c/strong> gazpachos, \u003cstrong>Swedish\u003c/strong> fruit soups, and \u003cstrong>French\u003c/strong>-inspired vichyssoise. Yet, on the opposite end of the culinary continuum, diners in other cultures prefer to sip hot summer soups for their cooling properties.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A recent \u003ca href=\"http://articles.chicagotribune.com/2013-07-25/features/ct-dining-0725-korean-summer-20130725_1_korean-dishes-broth-whole-bird\">article in the Chicago Tribune\u003c/a> featured \u003cstrong>Korean\u003c/strong> summer foods, like \u003cem>Sam gye tang\u003c/em> (Ginseng Chicken Soup).\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"Boiled chicken in a steaming stone bowl may sound like the last thing you crave on a sweltering, 90 percent humidity afternoon. But that's exactly what Koreans line up for during the summer doldrums. Sam gye tang is young chicken or hen stuffed with glutinous rice, garlic, jujube (a prune-y maroon date), ginseng and sometimes ginger, then simmered in its own fat and juices. The two vital \"warming\" ingredients, ginseng and garlic, are meant to inject you with nutrients lost to excessive sweating, as well as regulate blood flow and metabolism.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Wok-wizard and acclaimed cookbook author, \u003ca href=\"http://www.graceyoung.com/\">Grace Young\u003c/a>, grew up in a traditional \u003cstrong>Chinese\u003c/strong> home in San Francisco. In \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Wisdom-Chinese-Kitchen-Grace-Young/dp/0684847396/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1380343667&sr=1-1&keywords=the+wisdom+of+the+chinese+kitchen\">The Wisdom of the Chinese Kitchen\u003c/a> she presents “the brilliant harmony of Chinese cooking” as an ingenious system to mitigate the effects of external as well as internal heat. “Unlike the Western practice of drinking iced beverages to cool the body,\" Young explains, \"hot soups are often drunk in the summer in China.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Young includes recipes her mother and aunt would routinely make during hot weather, including Herbal Winter Melon Soup with adzuki beans, and Soybean and Sparerib Soup with ginger. She explains that these soups are \"tonics\" and sipped for their healing properties, rather than consumed as a meal. Young recalls that growing up in her Cantonese family's home, a bowl or two was drunk at mealtimes, in place of water, milk or soda. She also notes that these “yin-yang concoctions” are \"an acquired taste\" and change with the seasons.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Heat from Spice is Nice\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>It’s not just the warm temperature of the food, but the heat from spices (especially peppers) that many cultures employ to beat the heat. Vinita Jacinto, chef and cooking teacher, who writes at \u003ca href=\"http://spicewhisperer.wordpress.com/\">The Spice Whisperer\u003c/a> shares that in \u003cstrong>India\u003c/strong>, certain herbs and spices (like cumin and cayenne) promote perspiration to naturally cool the body. \"Spicy food is a natural way to keep cool in the tropics,\" she says. One of her favorite hot weather beverages is \u003cem> Jal-Jeera, \u003c/em>a spiced lemonade she prepares with toasted cumin powder, mint, cilantro, black salt and raw sugar or agave.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_71087\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/spice-whisperer-collage.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-71087\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/spice-whisperer-collage.jpg\" alt=\"Vinita Jacinto, the Spice Whisperer\" width=\"1000\" height=\"608\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Vinita Jacinto, the Spice Whisperer, photo: Anna Mindess\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Because of its replenishing, high water content, watermelon is a natural hot weather favorite around the world. Jacinto amps up watermelon's cooling capabilities by sprinkling chunks of fruit with a mixture of dry mango powder, black salt, ginger powder and garnishing with chopped mint. An additional summer drink she suggests is a salted buttermilk lassi with toasted cumin and muddled mint. \"Its protein fights off heat exhaustion as it rehydrates the body,\" counsels Jacinto.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another devotee of the power of peppers is Nico Vera, who chronicles the drinks and cuisine of \u003cstrong>Peru\u003c/strong> in his blog \u003ca href=\"http://www.piscotrail.com/\">Pisco Trail\u003c/a>. \"During Peruvian summers [November-March], when Lima is hot and humid,\" Vera says, “the most cooling dish for lunch is ceviche: fresh fish, lime juice, onions, salt, hot peppers, and a cold beer make quite the combination. I suspect that the hot peppers also act as cooling agents, in that they make one perspire and cool off.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_71086\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/ceviche-nikkei.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-71086\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/ceviche-nikkei.jpg\" alt=\"Japanese inspired Peruvian Ceviche by Nico Vera\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Japanese inspired Peruvian Ceviche, photo by Nico Vera\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Traveling full circle back to Japan, Vera comments that, “Peru has a tremendous abundance and variety of fish. But not until the arrival of the Japanese 100 years ago, did Peruvians truly become interested in seafood. Thanks in large part to their profound appreciation for fish, the Japanese transformed how Peruvians prepared and ate Ceviche, making it one of Peru’s most culturally significant dishes.” \u003ca href=\"http://www.piscotrail.com/2011/07/02/recipes/ceviche-nikkei/\">Here is his recipe\u003c/a> for Ceviche Nikkei.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With our quirky Bay Area weather patterns, we often get our warmest days in early fall, so you might just want to keep some ice and spice handy.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "While the Bay Area doesn't get the swoon-inducing heat and humidity of Japan, Peru, India or the Philippines, we can still partake of their edible solutions for cooling relief. Some like it cold and icy with mounds of shaved ice doused with syrups, while others turn to peppers and spice to induce a natural cooling response.",
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"description": "While the Bay Area doesn't get the swoon-inducing heat and humidity of Japan, Peru, India or the Philippines, we can still partake of their edible solutions for cooling relief. Some like it cold and icy with mounds of shaved ice doused with syrups, while others turn to peppers and spice to induce a natural cooling response.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_71082\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/icy-vs-spicy-Collage.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-71082\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/icy-vs-spicy-Collage.jpg\" alt=\"In summertime, some like it cold and some like it hot. Left photo: Managementboy, wikimedia commons; Right photo: McKay Savage, Flickr\" width=\"1000\" height=\"690\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">In summertime, some like it cold and some like it hot. Left photo: Managementboy, \u003ca href=\"http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Ice_cream_cone_.jpg\">wikimedia commons\u003c/a>; Right photo: McKay Savage, \u003ca href=\"http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:India_-_Koyambedu_Market_-_Chili_Peppers_01_(3986954258).jpg\">wikimedia commons\u003c/a>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Like a dripping popsicle in an overheated toddler’s hand, I’m melting in Kyoto’s sultry, summer streets. Luckily, my friend Tomoko knows the perfect thing to revive me: a cooling lunch of icy noodles at a restaurant perched atop a cascading mountain stream. The only hitch -- and part of the fun -- is that we’ll have to catch our somen noodles (with chopsticks, of course) as they whiz down the cold water rushing through a bamboo tube. \u003cem>Nagashi Somen\u003c/em> or “flowing noodles” is a traditional treat to cope with Japan’s sauna-like summers. Some families erect a backyard bamboo course to delight the kids -- \u003ca href=\"http://vimeo.com/47912950\">as in this video.\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_71083\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/Nagashi-somen-Collage.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-71083\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/Nagashi-somen-Collage.jpg\" alt=\"Catch your noodles before they get away. Nagashi Somen, Kibune, Japan. Photo: Anna Mindess\" width=\"1000\" height=\"798\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Catch your noodles before they slip away. Nagashi Somen, Kibune, Japan. Photos: Anna Mindess, Tomoko Yoshihara\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Near Kyoto, \u003ca href=\"http://hirobun.co.jp/\">only one restaurant\u003c/a> serves this summertime-only, snatch-your-noodle-experience. Tomoko and I take a 20-minute train ride and a 10-minute bus ride to the village of Kibune, nestled in a forested valley. Then we walk up a narrow mountain road, past picturesque inns and high-end kaiseki restaurants set on platforms over the gushing river. Even though it’s an uphill trek to the last eating spot at the top of the path, the forest's shaded greenery, undulating thrum of cicadas and refreshing river air feels revitalizing -- plus it’s twenty degrees cooler than in the city.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This popular restaurant adds a stainless steel gutter inside the traditional bamboo pipe -- perhaps for ease of cleanup or added speed? The crowd of diners are seated ten at a time at the noodle bar and treated to bracing breezes from nearby dramatic waterfalls. As the server brings us each a bowl of dipping sauce and pair of chopsticks to nab our noodles, she points out which of the several pipelines are assigned to which diners and the fun begins as slippery strands zoom by hungry patrons. Squeals of delight or frustration are heard all around, followed by murmurs of enjoyment.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tomoko is seated \"downstream\" from me, so she can snag a clump of noodles if I miss it, which I do on the first round. Then she shares her strategy: stand the ends of the chopsticks in the water to act as a dainty dam. It works! My chilled nest of noodles, dipped in tangy sauce, tastes even better for having caught it. Once we all get the hang of it, the challenge is to grab your noodles, take a photo, dip and eat before the next bundle comes whizzing by. You can watch all the diners attempting this juggling act. After a dozen or so rounds, a last tangle of pink noodles silently slides by to announce the final serving.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On our journey back to the city, I ask Tomoko what other foods are eaten in \u003cstrong>Japan\u003c/strong>’s meltingly hot summers. Besides cold noodles (somen, \u003ca href=\"http://www.japanfoodaddict.com/noodles/hiayshi-chuka-reimen/\">reimen\u003c/a> and soba), she tells me that unagi is supposed to supply strength to withstand the withering weather. Plus cooling sweets such as \u003cem>mizu-yokan\u003c/em> (a jelly made with red adzuki beans) and shaved iced desserts like \u003cem>kakigori,\u003c/em> flavored\u003cem> \u003c/em>with green tea or other syrups.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even though our rare Bay Area hot spells are short and blessedly dry,” I start to wonder about \"cooling foods\" in other cultures. So I ask a few Bay Area connections to share their wisdom. (This is just a sampling of cultures. Please feel free to add your favorites).\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_71084\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/icy-desserts-Collage.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-71084\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/icy-desserts-Collage.jpg\" alt=\"Sweet and Icy. Left: Halo-halo, photo: tumbler??. Center: Kakigori, photo: Chris 73, wikimedia commons. Right: Ice Kachang, photo: Anna Mindess\" width=\"1000\" height=\"430\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sweet and Icy. Left: Halo-halo, photo: \u003ca href=\"http://25.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_lju93jDC5M1qhl5rgo1_500.jpg\">tumblr\u003c/a>. Center: Kakigori, photo: Chris 73, \u003ca href=\"http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Macha_kakigori_snow_cone.jpg\">wikimedia commons\u003c/a>. Right: Ice Kachang, photo: Anna Mindess\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Sweet and Icy\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>Aileen Suzara, educator, natural chef and environmental justice advocate, who often writes about \u003cstrong>Filipino\u003c/strong> cuisine at \u003ca href=\"http://www.kitchenkwento.typepad.com/\">Kitchen Kwento, \u003c/a> suggests the classic Filipino icy treat, \u003cem>halo-halo\u003c/em>, “literally a mix-mix\" with a range of possible ingredients. The layered medley may include jackfruit, kaong palm fruit, pineapple gelatin, red beans, a scoop of shaved ice, toasted rice pinipig or \u003cem>ube\u003c/em> (purple yam) ice cream, topped with evaporated milk, leche flan and strands of coconut.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This reminds me of Ice Kachang, a mountain of shaved ice, doused with syrups and toppings, which I sampled \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/11/17/sweet-treats-in-food-obsessed-singapore/\">on a trip to \u003cstrong>Singapore\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>, another steamy city. \u003cstrong>Korean\u003c/strong> \u003cem>Pat-bing-soo\u003c/em> also features shaved ice, topped with sweet red bean paste and mochi. And of course, even a day in the 70’s would be an excuse for San Franciscans to head over to \u003ca href=\"http://biritecreamery.com/\">Bi-Rite Creamery\u003c/a> for a scoop of their salted caramel or balsamic strawberry ice cream. Ironically, this\u003ca href=\"http://healthland.time.com/2013/06/15/surprising-foods-that-toy-with-body-temperature/\"> article in Time\u003c/a> reveals that slurping ice cream actually heats up the body, thanks to its fat content. (Oh, now I know why SF is such an ice cream-crazed city -- it makes us warmer!)\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Soup (cold or hot)\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>While we’re on the subject of chilled dishes, people in many countries enjoy cold soups during the hottest months -- think \u003cstrong>Spanish\u003c/strong> gazpachos, \u003cstrong>Swedish\u003c/strong> fruit soups, and \u003cstrong>French\u003c/strong>-inspired vichyssoise. Yet, on the opposite end of the culinary continuum, diners in other cultures prefer to sip hot summer soups for their cooling properties.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A recent \u003ca href=\"http://articles.chicagotribune.com/2013-07-25/features/ct-dining-0725-korean-summer-20130725_1_korean-dishes-broth-whole-bird\">article in the Chicago Tribune\u003c/a> featured \u003cstrong>Korean\u003c/strong> summer foods, like \u003cem>Sam gye tang\u003c/em> (Ginseng Chicken Soup).\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"Boiled chicken in a steaming stone bowl may sound like the last thing you crave on a sweltering, 90 percent humidity afternoon. But that's exactly what Koreans line up for during the summer doldrums. Sam gye tang is young chicken or hen stuffed with glutinous rice, garlic, jujube (a prune-y maroon date), ginseng and sometimes ginger, then simmered in its own fat and juices. The two vital \"warming\" ingredients, ginseng and garlic, are meant to inject you with nutrients lost to excessive sweating, as well as regulate blood flow and metabolism.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Wok-wizard and acclaimed cookbook author, \u003ca href=\"http://www.graceyoung.com/\">Grace Young\u003c/a>, grew up in a traditional \u003cstrong>Chinese\u003c/strong> home in San Francisco. In \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Wisdom-Chinese-Kitchen-Grace-Young/dp/0684847396/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1380343667&sr=1-1&keywords=the+wisdom+of+the+chinese+kitchen\">The Wisdom of the Chinese Kitchen\u003c/a> she presents “the brilliant harmony of Chinese cooking” as an ingenious system to mitigate the effects of external as well as internal heat. “Unlike the Western practice of drinking iced beverages to cool the body,\" Young explains, \"hot soups are often drunk in the summer in China.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Young includes recipes her mother and aunt would routinely make during hot weather, including Herbal Winter Melon Soup with adzuki beans, and Soybean and Sparerib Soup with ginger. She explains that these soups are \"tonics\" and sipped for their healing properties, rather than consumed as a meal. Young recalls that growing up in her Cantonese family's home, a bowl or two was drunk at mealtimes, in place of water, milk or soda. She also notes that these “yin-yang concoctions” are \"an acquired taste\" and change with the seasons.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Heat from Spice is Nice\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>It’s not just the warm temperature of the food, but the heat from spices (especially peppers) that many cultures employ to beat the heat. Vinita Jacinto, chef and cooking teacher, who writes at \u003ca href=\"http://spicewhisperer.wordpress.com/\">The Spice Whisperer\u003c/a> shares that in \u003cstrong>India\u003c/strong>, certain herbs and spices (like cumin and cayenne) promote perspiration to naturally cool the body. \"Spicy food is a natural way to keep cool in the tropics,\" she says. One of her favorite hot weather beverages is \u003cem> Jal-Jeera, \u003c/em>a spiced lemonade she prepares with toasted cumin powder, mint, cilantro, black salt and raw sugar or agave.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_71087\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/spice-whisperer-collage.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-71087\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/spice-whisperer-collage.jpg\" alt=\"Vinita Jacinto, the Spice Whisperer\" width=\"1000\" height=\"608\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Vinita Jacinto, the Spice Whisperer, photo: Anna Mindess\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Because of its replenishing, high water content, watermelon is a natural hot weather favorite around the world. Jacinto amps up watermelon's cooling capabilities by sprinkling chunks of fruit with a mixture of dry mango powder, black salt, ginger powder and garnishing with chopped mint. An additional summer drink she suggests is a salted buttermilk lassi with toasted cumin and muddled mint. \"Its protein fights off heat exhaustion as it rehydrates the body,\" counsels Jacinto.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another devotee of the power of peppers is Nico Vera, who chronicles the drinks and cuisine of \u003cstrong>Peru\u003c/strong> in his blog \u003ca href=\"http://www.piscotrail.com/\">Pisco Trail\u003c/a>. \"During Peruvian summers [November-March], when Lima is hot and humid,\" Vera says, “the most cooling dish for lunch is ceviche: fresh fish, lime juice, onions, salt, hot peppers, and a cold beer make quite the combination. I suspect that the hot peppers also act as cooling agents, in that they make one perspire and cool off.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_71086\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/ceviche-nikkei.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-71086\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/ceviche-nikkei.jpg\" alt=\"Japanese inspired Peruvian Ceviche by Nico Vera\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Japanese inspired Peruvian Ceviche, photo by Nico Vera\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Traveling full circle back to Japan, Vera comments that, “Peru has a tremendous abundance and variety of fish. But not until the arrival of the Japanese 100 years ago, did Peruvians truly become interested in seafood. Thanks in large part to their profound appreciation for fish, the Japanese transformed how Peruvians prepared and ate Ceviche, making it one of Peru’s most culturally significant dishes.” \u003ca href=\"http://www.piscotrail.com/2011/07/02/recipes/ceviche-nikkei/\">Here is his recipe\u003c/a> for Ceviche Nikkei.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With our quirky Bay Area weather patterns, we often get our warmest days in early fall, so you might just want to keep some ice and spice handy.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Making Chocolate Truffles with Charles Chocolates: Recipe and Google+ Hangout Video",
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"content": "\u003cp>Why are you still buying chocolate truffles? There is no candy easier or more satisfyingly glamorous to make at home. No special equipment is required, and the four ingredients--heavy cream, good chocolate, butter, and cocoa powder--are readily available. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bay Area Bites decided to learn from a pro: Charles \"Chuck\" Siegel, owner of \u003ca href=\"http://www.charleschocolates.com/\">Charles Chocolates\u003c/a> in San Francisco's Mission Creek. In a recent \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/09/24/google-hangout-alert-make-chocolate-truffles-with-chuck-siegel-of-charles-chocolates/\">Google+ Hangout event\u003c/a>, Siegel talked chocolate and demonstrated a simple recipe for rich (and easily gift-able) chocolate truffles. Could it be as easy as it seemed? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[youtube //www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hz8m9mkg6f0]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Unlike, say, \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q4vBCy-W6uc\">fondant flowers\u003c/a>, which are infinitely trickier to master than the final product might suggest, chocolate truffles register as much fancier than they really are, perhaps due to their high price tag in upscale chocolate shops. What makes, or breaks, a good truffle isn't technique but the quality of the chocolate used. Since they're nothing but a lot of chocolate, a little cream, and a smidge of butter, the chocolate is what you'll be tasting, so make sure you use a brand you like. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wanting to buy local, we used \u003ca href=\"http://www.recchiuti.com/\">Recchuiti Confections'\u003c/a> \"dark milk\" bar mixed with \u003ca href=\"http://www.guittard.com/\">Guittard\u003c/a> 63% extra-dark chocolate chips. While Recchuiti doesn't make its own bean-to-bar product, we like supporting small-scale artisans in the Dogpatch, and their dark milk bar is one of the best we've tried. Family-run Guittard, made in Burlingame, offers a good price-to-quality ratio, and their chips have been a longtime Bay Area baking favorite. As for cream, the glass-bottled heavy cream produced by Straus Family Creamery is utterly dreamy, but Clover's organic heavy cream is also a good choice. You'll get a better texture in the final product if you steer clear of ultra-pasteurized heavy cream, which means avoiding most supermarket brands as well \"big organic\" brands like Horizon. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, amounts. Using the ingredient amounts listed on Siegel's recipe--a pound and a half of chocolate, over a pint of cream--you'll end up with lot of truffles--about 100 if you make 1\"-x-1\" cubes, more if you make them smaller. A 9\"-x-13\" pan of truffles is a whole lot of truffles, especially since they are rich enough to make it hard to eat more than two pieces in a sitting (really!). And here's why we love pastry-chef wonks who do the math for us: Siegel points out that an 8\"-x-8\" pan (the typical square brownie pan) holds 60% of the volume of a 9\"-x-13\" pan, so rather than just halving the recipe, you'll get best results if you use 60% of the original amounts. This is only slightly tricky when it comes to the amount of milk chocolate, 5.4 ounces. If you don't have a scale, eyeballing just under 5 1/2 ounces should be fine; 1 cup of chocolate chips equals 6 ounces. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once you've assembled your chocolates, it's important to get it chopped evenly into roughly chip-sized pieces. You're melting the chocolate by pouring hot cream over it, and if you try pouring your hot liquid over one big solid lump, it won't melt evenly. This is an argument for using chocolate chips or couverture wafers in the first place, as chopping chocolate can be a sticky and rather mess-making task. But if you need to do it, use a sharp, heavy knife (like a cleaver or chef's knife) and make sure your cutting board is clean and non-oniony/garlicky.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you want to infuse your truffles with a subtle but distinctive flavor, try steeping whole spices or herbs in the warm cream. Add whole cinnamon sticks, coffee beans, finely chopped mint, tea leaves or other flavorings to the cream while it's heating. Once cream is steaming, remove from heat, cover and let steep for 5 minutes. Strain, discarding solids. Rewarm the cream briefly if necessary before using. We made Mexican-style truffles by adding 2 cinnamon sticks and a whole dry chipotle chile to the cream, giving a warm hint of smoky spice to the final product.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_71197\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/truffles1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/truffles1000.jpg\" alt=\"Chocolate Truffles produced from Google+ Hangout with Charles Chocolates. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-71197\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chocolate Truffles produced by cooking along with Chuck Siegel during Google+ Hangout. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Charles Chocolates Recipe: Chocolate Truffles\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>To make a 9\"-x-13\" pan:\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n15 oz bittersweet chocolate\u003cbr>\n9 oz milk chocolate\u003cbr>\n2 1/2 cups heavy cream, preferably organic and non ultra-pasteurized\u003cbr>\n2 tablespoons butter\u003cbr>\n1 cup unsweetened cocoa powder, for finishing\t\t\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>To make an 8\"-x-8\" pan:\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n9 oz bittersweet chocolate\u003cbr>\n5.4 oz milk chocolate\u003cbr>\n6 tbsp heavy cream\u003cbr>\n1 tb plus 1 tsp butter\u003cbr>\n2/3 cup unsweetened cocoa powder, for finishing \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1. If not using chips, chop the chocolates evenly into pebble-sized pieces. Combine in a medium bowl and set aside. Line pan with a long strip of plastic wrap, using enough that you'll be able to wrap the long edge completely over the top of the finished truffles. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. In a saucepan, heat heavy cream until just steaming and beginning to bubble around the edges. Pour hot cream over chocolate. Let mixture stand for several minutes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Using a rubber spatula, a whisk, or a hand (immersion) blender, begin mixing the chocolate and cream at the center of the bowl, slowly moving outwards from the center to the sides of the bowl. Continue mixing until chocolate is fully melted and mixture is smooth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Add butter and continue mixing until butter is melted and mixture is smooth. Pour chocolate into prepared pan, using an offset or rubber spatula to push mixture evenly into the corners. Smooth the top and fold the excess plastic wrap over the top, gently pressing down onto the top of the mixture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5. Chill mixture in the refrigerator for at least 6 hours or overnight. When mixture has hardened, remove from refrigerator. Peel back the top plastic wrap. Flip over onto a cutting board and peel off remaining plastic wrap. Using a pizza cutter or a sharp knife, cut into small, even squares. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6. Sift cocoa powder into a wide-mouthed bowl. Add truffles a few at a time to bowl of cocoa, shaking to cover each truffle completely with cocoa. Shake excess cocoa off through a fine mesh strainer and arrange finished truffles on a serving plate. Continue coating truffles with cocoa powder until all the truffles are coated. Cover and refrigerate until serving. \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Chuck Siegel, owner and chief chocolatier of Charles Chocolates, shows Bay Area Bites readers how to make their own easy and outrageously delicious chocolate truffles. Stephanie Rosenbaum tries out his technique at home. \r\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Why are you still buying chocolate truffles? There is no candy easier or more satisfyingly glamorous to make at home. No special equipment is required, and the four ingredients--heavy cream, good chocolate, butter, and cocoa powder--are readily available. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bay Area Bites decided to learn from a pro: Charles \"Chuck\" Siegel, owner of \u003ca href=\"http://www.charleschocolates.com/\">Charles Chocolates\u003c/a> in San Francisco's Mission Creek. In a recent \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/09/24/google-hangout-alert-make-chocolate-truffles-with-chuck-siegel-of-charles-chocolates/\">Google+ Hangout event\u003c/a>, Siegel talked chocolate and demonstrated a simple recipe for rich (and easily gift-able) chocolate truffles. Could it be as easy as it seemed? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/Hz8m9mkg6f0'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/Hz8m9mkg6f0'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Unlike, say, \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q4vBCy-W6uc\">fondant flowers\u003c/a>, which are infinitely trickier to master than the final product might suggest, chocolate truffles register as much fancier than they really are, perhaps due to their high price tag in upscale chocolate shops. What makes, or breaks, a good truffle isn't technique but the quality of the chocolate used. Since they're nothing but a lot of chocolate, a little cream, and a smidge of butter, the chocolate is what you'll be tasting, so make sure you use a brand you like. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wanting to buy local, we used \u003ca href=\"http://www.recchiuti.com/\">Recchuiti Confections'\u003c/a> \"dark milk\" bar mixed with \u003ca href=\"http://www.guittard.com/\">Guittard\u003c/a> 63% extra-dark chocolate chips. While Recchuiti doesn't make its own bean-to-bar product, we like supporting small-scale artisans in the Dogpatch, and their dark milk bar is one of the best we've tried. Family-run Guittard, made in Burlingame, offers a good price-to-quality ratio, and their chips have been a longtime Bay Area baking favorite. As for cream, the glass-bottled heavy cream produced by Straus Family Creamery is utterly dreamy, but Clover's organic heavy cream is also a good choice. You'll get a better texture in the final product if you steer clear of ultra-pasteurized heavy cream, which means avoiding most supermarket brands as well \"big organic\" brands like Horizon. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, amounts. Using the ingredient amounts listed on Siegel's recipe--a pound and a half of chocolate, over a pint of cream--you'll end up with lot of truffles--about 100 if you make 1\"-x-1\" cubes, more if you make them smaller. A 9\"-x-13\" pan of truffles is a whole lot of truffles, especially since they are rich enough to make it hard to eat more than two pieces in a sitting (really!). And here's why we love pastry-chef wonks who do the math for us: Siegel points out that an 8\"-x-8\" pan (the typical square brownie pan) holds 60% of the volume of a 9\"-x-13\" pan, so rather than just halving the recipe, you'll get best results if you use 60% of the original amounts. This is only slightly tricky when it comes to the amount of milk chocolate, 5.4 ounces. If you don't have a scale, eyeballing just under 5 1/2 ounces should be fine; 1 cup of chocolate chips equals 6 ounces. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once you've assembled your chocolates, it's important to get it chopped evenly into roughly chip-sized pieces. You're melting the chocolate by pouring hot cream over it, and if you try pouring your hot liquid over one big solid lump, it won't melt evenly. This is an argument for using chocolate chips or couverture wafers in the first place, as chopping chocolate can be a sticky and rather mess-making task. But if you need to do it, use a sharp, heavy knife (like a cleaver or chef's knife) and make sure your cutting board is clean and non-oniony/garlicky.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you want to infuse your truffles with a subtle but distinctive flavor, try steeping whole spices or herbs in the warm cream. Add whole cinnamon sticks, coffee beans, finely chopped mint, tea leaves or other flavorings to the cream while it's heating. Once cream is steaming, remove from heat, cover and let steep for 5 minutes. Strain, discarding solids. Rewarm the cream briefly if necessary before using. We made Mexican-style truffles by adding 2 cinnamon sticks and a whole dry chipotle chile to the cream, giving a warm hint of smoky spice to the final product.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_71197\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/truffles1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/truffles1000.jpg\" alt=\"Chocolate Truffles produced from Google+ Hangout with Charles Chocolates. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-71197\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chocolate Truffles produced by cooking along with Chuck Siegel during Google+ Hangout. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Charles Chocolates Recipe: Chocolate Truffles\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>To make a 9\"-x-13\" pan:\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n15 oz bittersweet chocolate\u003cbr>\n9 oz milk chocolate\u003cbr>\n2 1/2 cups heavy cream, preferably organic and non ultra-pasteurized\u003cbr>\n2 tablespoons butter\u003cbr>\n1 cup unsweetened cocoa powder, for finishing\t\t\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>To make an 8\"-x-8\" pan:\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n9 oz bittersweet chocolate\u003cbr>\n5.4 oz milk chocolate\u003cbr>\n6 tbsp heavy cream\u003cbr>\n1 tb plus 1 tsp butter\u003cbr>\n2/3 cup unsweetened cocoa powder, for finishing \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1. If not using chips, chop the chocolates evenly into pebble-sized pieces. Combine in a medium bowl and set aside. Line pan with a long strip of plastic wrap, using enough that you'll be able to wrap the long edge completely over the top of the finished truffles. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. In a saucepan, heat heavy cream until just steaming and beginning to bubble around the edges. Pour hot cream over chocolate. Let mixture stand for several minutes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Using a rubber spatula, a whisk, or a hand (immersion) blender, begin mixing the chocolate and cream at the center of the bowl, slowly moving outwards from the center to the sides of the bowl. Continue mixing until chocolate is fully melted and mixture is smooth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Add butter and continue mixing until butter is melted and mixture is smooth. Pour chocolate into prepared pan, using an offset or rubber spatula to push mixture evenly into the corners. Smooth the top and fold the excess plastic wrap over the top, gently pressing down onto the top of the mixture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5. Chill mixture in the refrigerator for at least 6 hours or overnight. When mixture has hardened, remove from refrigerator. Peel back the top plastic wrap. Flip over onto a cutting board and peel off remaining plastic wrap. Using a pizza cutter or a sharp knife, cut into small, even squares. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6. Sift cocoa powder into a wide-mouthed bowl. Add truffles a few at a time to bowl of cocoa, shaking to cover each truffle completely with cocoa. Shake excess cocoa off through a fine mesh strainer and arrange finished truffles on a serving plate. Continue coating truffles with cocoa powder until all the truffles are coated. Cover and refrigerate until serving. \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Gravenstein Apples: The End of Summer in a Fruit",
"title": "Gravenstein Apples: The End of Summer in a Fruit",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_71172\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/apples.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/apples.jpg\" alt=\"Gravenstein Apples. Photo: Nicole Spiridakis for NPR\" width=\"1120\" height=\"745\" class=\"size-full wp-image-71172\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Gravenstein Apples. Photo: Nicole Spiridakis for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Nicole Spiridakis, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2013/09/25/225884066/gravenstein-apples-the-end-of-summer-in-a-fruit\">Kitchen Window at NPR Food\u003c/a> (9/27/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Get recipes for \u003ca href=\"#sauce\">Just Apples Applesauce\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#tart\">Brown Sugar Tarte Tatin\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#muffins\">Apple-Walnut Muffins\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#cake\">Apple And Butter Cake\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"#salad\">Apple And Arugula Salad With Lemon Vinaigrette\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In fall, my thoughts naturally turn to apples. Specifically, Gravensteins.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For many years Gravensteins were the hallmark of Sebastopol, Calif., the small town where I grew up about an hour north of San Francisco. Miles of apple trees and vineyards snugly fit side by side in a peaceful coexistence that juxtaposes the old and the new. When I was a kid there were more apples than grapes; we knew Sebastopol as the 'apple capital' rather than as an extension of wine country. Our back-to-school mornings were tinged with the scent of fermenting fruit and we tucked crisp apples into our lunch boxes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Apples, particularly Gravensteins, were a backdrop to my childhood. I attended Gravenstein Elementary School and participated in the apple blossom parade each spring. In late summer I baked pies to enter in the Gravenstein Apple Fair where I ate apple crumbles piled high with whipped cream and munched on cinnamon-drizzled slices of the local crop as the afternoon waned. Apples and western Sonoma County seemed made for each other.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Things are slightly different now. Although the festivals are still going strong, most of the apple processing plants closed years ago and grape vines are slowly eradicating the ancient, gnarled trunks. But thanks to Slow Food USA – which in 2005 declared the Gravenstein apple a heritage food, thus giving it a much-needed bit of caché – my cherished 'Gravs' are experiencing something of a renaissance.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Why love Gravensteins? First and foremost they are a wonderful cooking apple. Crisp and tart and with a touch of honey, Gravensteins are especially good in sauce and cider or dried (in fact, Sebastopol Gravensteins were the source for apple sauce and dried apples for the U.S. troops in World War II).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Gravenstein's origins lie in 17\u003csup>th\u003c/sup>-century Denmark. In addition to Sebastopol, the fruit is grown from Nova Scotia to the Pacific Northwest. I like them in nearly everything, from a tarte tatin to a buttery, rich cake laden with apple slices.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The trees live lightly on the land, a boon in a perpetually drought-plagued state such as California. Their roots dig deep into the sandy, loamy soil and survive and thrive without irrigation. The coastal fog that typically blows in during the early evening and burns off in the morning sun also helps to create a perfect environment for the trees.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While I know change is as inevitable as the shift of the seasons, it breaks my heart a little to see the orchards being steadily replaced with vineyards. Gravenstein acreage has declined from 1,200 a decade ago to 763 in 2010. In an effort to sustain the remaining orchards, some growers have switched to growing their apples organically, which has helped. Regardless, the area remains an agricultural paradise.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I was growing up we had in our backyard from roughly June through October: plums, nectarines, blueberries, strawberries, blackberries, walnuts, almonds, apples and various vegetables during the summer months. Typical of oblivious children, I don't think my brother and I really appreciated — or even were aware of — how fortunate we were to be assigned the 'task' of picking blueberries, stuffing two berries into our mouths for every five we threw in a bowl.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But that is the true beauty of a fortunate childhood: to be so fully immersed in the moment you have no need to think of the next day or even the next few hours. It is enough simply to be with your dog panting quietly on the dry grass in the shade, listening to the crows call overhead, eating fruit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My mom sometimes made strawberry jam from the garden strawberries and the kitchen smelled delicious, all hot and steamy from the big pots on the stove. As I got older, I used the blackberries in pies, or a tiny batch of jam once in awhile, or as the perfect garnish for the mini angel-food cakes I'd bake for my dad.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Every fall for many years Mom made applesauce. I loved applesauce days. I probably didn't help out more than to peer into the bubbling pot every so often and beg for a taste or two, but the process took at least an entire day. All the fruit came from our trees – though there were only a few they were prolific – and I still pilfer apples when I visit my parents' house in late summer. It was a bit of work, sure, but I loved eating that applesauce; when we had it with a weeknight dinner it elevated the meal into something special.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I try to carry on that tradition in my own kitchen, but I will confess that these days I mostly make small batches of sauce and save the apples for more involved dishes (think cakes, muffins, quick bread, even salads). I lace my pies with cinnamon and ginger — the apple's best friends — and infuse them with maple syrup and brown sugar. This never fails to up the ante. But what I'm really after is that sweet-tart, quintessential fall flavor – the end of summer captured in a fruit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, no apple is created alike, but in my recipes you may use any variety of your favorite cooking apple (though if pressed I may argue in favor of my beloved Gravs). 'Tis the season, after all.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>\u003ca name=\"sauce\">\u003c/a>Just Apples Applesauce\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>More a formula than an exact recipe, this is my favorite way to prepare applesauce – completely unadorned. However, I will occasionally stir in some additional flavorings after I've made it: a bit of butter, a teaspoon of cinnamon, some maple syrup or brown sugar. If your apples are on the tart side, you may find it to your taste to sweeten them up a little. But it's all up to you.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_71169\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/apples-sauce.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/apples-sauce.jpg\" alt=\"Just Apples Applesauce. Photo: Nicole Spiridakis for NPR\" width=\"1120\" height=\"823\" class=\"size-full wp-image-71169\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Just Apples Applesauce. Photo: Nicole Spiridakis for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 1 1/3 cups \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 pound apples, peeled, cored and roughly chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Splash of water\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place the apples in a large heavy-bottomed pot. Add the water and turn heat to high. When the apples and water are just boiling, reduce heat to a simmer and stir frequently. Cook apples until tender, adding more water if necessary, stirring and mashing with a wooden spoon against the side of the pot as they cook.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When apples are cooked through and very tender, remove from heat. Using the wooden spoon or a potato masher, mash the apples until they are fairly smooth (I prefer a lumpier sauce). If you like a smoother sauce, puree apples in a food processor or blender.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Refrigerate until ready to serve. Applesauce may be served cold or at room temperature.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>\u003ca name=\"tart\">\u003c/a>Brown Sugar Tarte Tatin\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>I love to make a tarte tatin – a French upside down tart made with apples caramelized in butter and sugar – in the fall; it seems to perfectly suit the season. Serve slices of this dessert with dollops of softly whipped cream or, better yet, slightly warm and serve with vanilla ice cream.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_71171\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/apples-tarte-tatin.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/apples-tarte-tatin.jpg\" alt=\"Brown Sugar Tarte Tatin. Photo: Nicole Spiridakis for NPR\" width=\"1120\" height=\"745\" class=\"size-full wp-image-71171\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Brown Sugar Tarte Tatin. Photo: Nicole Spiridakis for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 1 10-inch tart\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Crust\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 teaspoon salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch cubes\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 to 4 tablespoons ice water\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Filling\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>½ cup unsalted butter\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 brown cup sugar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 pounds apples, peeled, cored and quartered\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon lemon juice\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the crust, in a large bowl, whisk together the flour and salt. Cut in the butter using your fingertips or a pastry blender until most of mixture resembles coarse meal. Drizzle 2 tablespoons ice water evenly over mixture and gently stir with a fork until incorporated. Test mixture by gently squeezing a small handful. When it has proper texture it should hold together without crumbling apart. If necessary add enough remaining water, 1 tablespoon at a time, stirring until incorporated.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wrap dough in plastic wrap and place in the refrigerator for 1 hour.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preheat oven to 425 degrees.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a deep, heavy 12-inch skillet melt the butter and sugar, stirring occasionally, then boil for 1 minute.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Add apples and cook over moderate heat, turning fruit occasionally (be careful not to break the quarters) and gently stirring syrup, until the apples are glazed and the syrup begins to thicken, about 20 minutes. Stir tin he lemon juice and simmer, turning apples and gently stirring frequently, until most of syrup is evaporated and apples are tender and golden brown, about 10 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Arrange apples in a 10-inch (1 1/2-quart) glass pie plate\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On a lightly floured surface with a floured rolling pin, roll out dough into a 12-inch round and drape it over the apples. Tuck edge between apples and rim of dish and cut several steam vents in the pastry. Place the tart in the oven and bake for about 25 minutes, or until juices are bubbling and crust is golden brown.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Remove from oven and let stand for 5 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Invert a serving plate over the pie plate and invert tart onto serving plate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> Serve warm or at room temperature.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>\u003ca name=\"muffins\">\u003c/a>Apple-Walnut Muffins\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>These hearty, wholesome muffins are lovely on crisp fall mornings with a bit of honey and a cup of tea or coffee. I use my homemade applesauce here, but of course you may use store bought if that is easier.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_71167\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/apples-muffins.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/apples-muffins.jpg\" alt=\"Apple-Walnut Muffins. Photo: Nicole Spiridakis for NPR\" width=\"1120\" height=\"745\" class=\"size-full wp-image-71167\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Apple-Walnut Muffins. Photo: Nicole Spiridakis for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 1 dozen muffins\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Muffins\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3/4 cup non-dairy milk (or whole milk, if you prefer)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon apple cider vinegar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup maple syrup\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup applesauce\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup vegetable oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/2 cups whole wheat pastry flour\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup all-purpose flour\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon baking powder\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon baking soda\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pinch of ground ginger\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 medium apples, peeled, cored and chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup chopped walnuts\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Oat crumble topping\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 tablespoons rolled oats\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 tablespoons brown sugar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Grease a 12-cup muffin tin or line it with cupcake liners.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a medium bowl, whisk together the milk, vinegar, maple syrup, applesauce and oil until well combined.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a large bowl, whisk together the flours, baking powder, baking soda, cinnamon, salt and ginger. Mix in the chopped apples, tossing to coat the fruit lightly.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pour the wet ingredients into the dry and stir gently until just combined. Fold in the nuts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Distribute the batter evenly into the muffin tins and sprinkle each muffin with oats and brown sugar. Place in the oven and bake for 20-25 minutes, until a tester comes out clean.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Remove tin from oven and let muffins cool in the pan for about 10 minutes, then turn the muffins out onto a wire rack to cool completely.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Serve room temperature or slightly warm, with a bit of margarine, butter or coconut butter.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>\u003ca name=\"cake\">\u003c/a>Apple And Butter Cake\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Lush with butter and fragrant with apples, this simple. rich cake is perfect to serve as the finish to a late-September lunch party or simply with a cup of afternoon tea any time. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_71166\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/apples-cake.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/apples-cake.jpg\" alt=\"Apple and Butter Cake. Photo: Nicole Spiridakis for NPR\" width=\"1120\" height=\"819\" class=\"size-full wp-image-71166\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Apple and Butter Cake. Photo: Nicole Spiridakis for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 10 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 large apples, peeled and cored\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon sugar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 teaspoons ground cinnamon\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup butter, at room temperature\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cups sugar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 large eggs\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 cups flour\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 teaspoon baking powder\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup orange juice\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Heat oven to 350 degrees. Grease and flour a tube pan or a springform cake pan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Slice the apples. Put in a small bowl and sprinkle with the sugar and cinnamon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a large bowl, cream the butter and sugar using an electric mixer on medium-high speed. Add the eggs one at a time, beating well to combine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a medium bowl, sift together the dry ingredients and add to butter and sugar mixture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Add the orange juice and vanilla, beating well to form a smooth batter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pour about a third of the batter into pan. Layer with one-half of the apples. Repeat for one more layer, finishing with the batter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place in oven and bake for about 1 1/2 hours until lightly browned and a tester inserted in the middle comes out clean.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Remove from oven and let cool in pan on a rack for 20 minutes, then turn out onto the rack to cool completely.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>\u003ca name=\"salad\">\u003c/a>Apple And Arugula Salad With Lemon Vinaigrette\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>In this salad the sharp bite of arugula is balanced by crisp slices of apples and bound together by a lemony vinaigrette. Use apples that are slightly on the tarter side and make sure they are very firm and fresh.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_71168\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/apples-salad.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/apples-salad.jpg\" alt=\"Apple and Arugula Salad with Lemon Vinaigrette. Photo: Nicole Spiridakis for NPR\" width=\"1120\" height=\"745\" class=\"size-full wp-image-71168\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Apple and Arugula Salad with Lemon Vinaigrette. Photo: Nicole Spiridakis for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Salad\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 large apples, washed\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 cups arugula\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 bunch radishes, thinly sliced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 bunch scallions, thinly sliced (white parts only)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 avocado, skin and pit removed and coarsely sliced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup shelled sunflower seeds, optional\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Vinaigrette\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 shallot, finely diced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon lemon zest\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 teaspoon salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil or to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 teaspoon black pepper\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Thinly slice apples and place in a large salad bowl. Add the arugula, radishes, scallions, avocado and sunflower seeds is using. Lightly toss to combine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the vinaigrette, combine the first four ingredients in a small bowl and let stand for 15 minutes. Then whisk in the oil and season with pepper to taste. Taste to correct the balance, adding more oil if needed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Drizzle dressing over salad, gently tossing and turning to coat lightly. \u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cstrong>About The Author\u003c/strong>\n\u003cp>Nicole Spiridakis lives in San Francisco and writes about food, travel and her native state on her blog, \u003ca href=\"http://www.cucinanicolina.com/\">cucinanicolina.com\u003c/a>. Her work has appeared in \u003cem>The New York Times\u003c/em>, the \u003cem>San Francisco Chronicle\u003c/em>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.chow.com/\">chow.com\u003c/a> and other publications.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "As summer turns to fall, finding new ways to use up abundant apples is a great way to mark the arrival of autumn. And for one food writer, there's one apple in particular that spells the end of summer: Gravenstein apples, which are grown in her native Sebastopol, Calif.",
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"description": "As summer turns to fall, finding new ways to use up abundant apples is a great way to mark the arrival of autumn. And for one food writer, there's one apple in particular that spells the end of summer: Gravenstein apples, which are grown in her native Sebastopol, Calif.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_71172\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/apples.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/apples.jpg\" alt=\"Gravenstein Apples. Photo: Nicole Spiridakis for NPR\" width=\"1120\" height=\"745\" class=\"size-full wp-image-71172\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Gravenstein Apples. Photo: Nicole Spiridakis for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Nicole Spiridakis, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2013/09/25/225884066/gravenstein-apples-the-end-of-summer-in-a-fruit\">Kitchen Window at NPR Food\u003c/a> (9/27/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Get recipes for \u003ca href=\"#sauce\">Just Apples Applesauce\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#tart\">Brown Sugar Tarte Tatin\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#muffins\">Apple-Walnut Muffins\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#cake\">Apple And Butter Cake\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"#salad\">Apple And Arugula Salad With Lemon Vinaigrette\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In fall, my thoughts naturally turn to apples. Specifically, Gravensteins.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For many years Gravensteins were the hallmark of Sebastopol, Calif., the small town where I grew up about an hour north of San Francisco. Miles of apple trees and vineyards snugly fit side by side in a peaceful coexistence that juxtaposes the old and the new. When I was a kid there were more apples than grapes; we knew Sebastopol as the 'apple capital' rather than as an extension of wine country. Our back-to-school mornings were tinged with the scent of fermenting fruit and we tucked crisp apples into our lunch boxes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Apples, particularly Gravensteins, were a backdrop to my childhood. I attended Gravenstein Elementary School and participated in the apple blossom parade each spring. In late summer I baked pies to enter in the Gravenstein Apple Fair where I ate apple crumbles piled high with whipped cream and munched on cinnamon-drizzled slices of the local crop as the afternoon waned. Apples and western Sonoma County seemed made for each other.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Things are slightly different now. Although the festivals are still going strong, most of the apple processing plants closed years ago and grape vines are slowly eradicating the ancient, gnarled trunks. But thanks to Slow Food USA – which in 2005 declared the Gravenstein apple a heritage food, thus giving it a much-needed bit of caché – my cherished 'Gravs' are experiencing something of a renaissance.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Why love Gravensteins? First and foremost they are a wonderful cooking apple. Crisp and tart and with a touch of honey, Gravensteins are especially good in sauce and cider or dried (in fact, Sebastopol Gravensteins were the source for apple sauce and dried apples for the U.S. troops in World War II).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Gravenstein's origins lie in 17\u003csup>th\u003c/sup>-century Denmark. In addition to Sebastopol, the fruit is grown from Nova Scotia to the Pacific Northwest. I like them in nearly everything, from a tarte tatin to a buttery, rich cake laden with apple slices.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The trees live lightly on the land, a boon in a perpetually drought-plagued state such as California. Their roots dig deep into the sandy, loamy soil and survive and thrive without irrigation. The coastal fog that typically blows in during the early evening and burns off in the morning sun also helps to create a perfect environment for the trees.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While I know change is as inevitable as the shift of the seasons, it breaks my heart a little to see the orchards being steadily replaced with vineyards. Gravenstein acreage has declined from 1,200 a decade ago to 763 in 2010. In an effort to sustain the remaining orchards, some growers have switched to growing their apples organically, which has helped. Regardless, the area remains an agricultural paradise.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I was growing up we had in our backyard from roughly June through October: plums, nectarines, blueberries, strawberries, blackberries, walnuts, almonds, apples and various vegetables during the summer months. Typical of oblivious children, I don't think my brother and I really appreciated — or even were aware of — how fortunate we were to be assigned the 'task' of picking blueberries, stuffing two berries into our mouths for every five we threw in a bowl.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But that is the true beauty of a fortunate childhood: to be so fully immersed in the moment you have no need to think of the next day or even the next few hours. It is enough simply to be with your dog panting quietly on the dry grass in the shade, listening to the crows call overhead, eating fruit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My mom sometimes made strawberry jam from the garden strawberries and the kitchen smelled delicious, all hot and steamy from the big pots on the stove. As I got older, I used the blackberries in pies, or a tiny batch of jam once in awhile, or as the perfect garnish for the mini angel-food cakes I'd bake for my dad.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Every fall for many years Mom made applesauce. I loved applesauce days. I probably didn't help out more than to peer into the bubbling pot every so often and beg for a taste or two, but the process took at least an entire day. All the fruit came from our trees – though there were only a few they were prolific – and I still pilfer apples when I visit my parents' house in late summer. It was a bit of work, sure, but I loved eating that applesauce; when we had it with a weeknight dinner it elevated the meal into something special.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I try to carry on that tradition in my own kitchen, but I will confess that these days I mostly make small batches of sauce and save the apples for more involved dishes (think cakes, muffins, quick bread, even salads). I lace my pies with cinnamon and ginger — the apple's best friends — and infuse them with maple syrup and brown sugar. This never fails to up the ante. But what I'm really after is that sweet-tart, quintessential fall flavor – the end of summer captured in a fruit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, no apple is created alike, but in my recipes you may use any variety of your favorite cooking apple (though if pressed I may argue in favor of my beloved Gravs). 'Tis the season, after all.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>\u003ca name=\"sauce\">\u003c/a>Just Apples Applesauce\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>More a formula than an exact recipe, this is my favorite way to prepare applesauce – completely unadorned. However, I will occasionally stir in some additional flavorings after I've made it: a bit of butter, a teaspoon of cinnamon, some maple syrup or brown sugar. If your apples are on the tart side, you may find it to your taste to sweeten them up a little. But it's all up to you.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_71169\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/apples-sauce.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/apples-sauce.jpg\" alt=\"Just Apples Applesauce. Photo: Nicole Spiridakis for NPR\" width=\"1120\" height=\"823\" class=\"size-full wp-image-71169\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Just Apples Applesauce. Photo: Nicole Spiridakis for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 1 1/3 cups \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 pound apples, peeled, cored and roughly chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Splash of water\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place the apples in a large heavy-bottomed pot. Add the water and turn heat to high. When the apples and water are just boiling, reduce heat to a simmer and stir frequently. Cook apples until tender, adding more water if necessary, stirring and mashing with a wooden spoon against the side of the pot as they cook.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When apples are cooked through and very tender, remove from heat. Using the wooden spoon or a potato masher, mash the apples until they are fairly smooth (I prefer a lumpier sauce). If you like a smoother sauce, puree apples in a food processor or blender.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Refrigerate until ready to serve. Applesauce may be served cold or at room temperature.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>\u003ca name=\"tart\">\u003c/a>Brown Sugar Tarte Tatin\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>I love to make a tarte tatin – a French upside down tart made with apples caramelized in butter and sugar – in the fall; it seems to perfectly suit the season. Serve slices of this dessert with dollops of softly whipped cream or, better yet, slightly warm and serve with vanilla ice cream.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_71171\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/apples-tarte-tatin.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/apples-tarte-tatin.jpg\" alt=\"Brown Sugar Tarte Tatin. Photo: Nicole Spiridakis for NPR\" width=\"1120\" height=\"745\" class=\"size-full wp-image-71171\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Brown Sugar Tarte Tatin. Photo: Nicole Spiridakis for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 1 10-inch tart\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Crust\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 teaspoon salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch cubes\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 to 4 tablespoons ice water\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Filling\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>½ cup unsalted butter\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 brown cup sugar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 pounds apples, peeled, cored and quartered\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon lemon juice\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the crust, in a large bowl, whisk together the flour and salt. Cut in the butter using your fingertips or a pastry blender until most of mixture resembles coarse meal. Drizzle 2 tablespoons ice water evenly over mixture and gently stir with a fork until incorporated. Test mixture by gently squeezing a small handful. When it has proper texture it should hold together without crumbling apart. If necessary add enough remaining water, 1 tablespoon at a time, stirring until incorporated.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wrap dough in plastic wrap and place in the refrigerator for 1 hour.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preheat oven to 425 degrees.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a deep, heavy 12-inch skillet melt the butter and sugar, stirring occasionally, then boil for 1 minute.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Add apples and cook over moderate heat, turning fruit occasionally (be careful not to break the quarters) and gently stirring syrup, until the apples are glazed and the syrup begins to thicken, about 20 minutes. Stir tin he lemon juice and simmer, turning apples and gently stirring frequently, until most of syrup is evaporated and apples are tender and golden brown, about 10 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Arrange apples in a 10-inch (1 1/2-quart) glass pie plate\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On a lightly floured surface with a floured rolling pin, roll out dough into a 12-inch round and drape it over the apples. Tuck edge between apples and rim of dish and cut several steam vents in the pastry. Place the tart in the oven and bake for about 25 minutes, or until juices are bubbling and crust is golden brown.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Remove from oven and let stand for 5 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Invert a serving plate over the pie plate and invert tart onto serving plate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> Serve warm or at room temperature.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>\u003ca name=\"muffins\">\u003c/a>Apple-Walnut Muffins\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>These hearty, wholesome muffins are lovely on crisp fall mornings with a bit of honey and a cup of tea or coffee. I use my homemade applesauce here, but of course you may use store bought if that is easier.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_71167\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/apples-muffins.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/apples-muffins.jpg\" alt=\"Apple-Walnut Muffins. Photo: Nicole Spiridakis for NPR\" width=\"1120\" height=\"745\" class=\"size-full wp-image-71167\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Apple-Walnut Muffins. Photo: Nicole Spiridakis for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 1 dozen muffins\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Muffins\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3/4 cup non-dairy milk (or whole milk, if you prefer)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon apple cider vinegar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup maple syrup\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup applesauce\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup vegetable oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/2 cups whole wheat pastry flour\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup all-purpose flour\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon baking powder\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon baking soda\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pinch of ground ginger\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 medium apples, peeled, cored and chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup chopped walnuts\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Oat crumble topping\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 tablespoons rolled oats\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 tablespoons brown sugar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Grease a 12-cup muffin tin or line it with cupcake liners.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a medium bowl, whisk together the milk, vinegar, maple syrup, applesauce and oil until well combined.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a large bowl, whisk together the flours, baking powder, baking soda, cinnamon, salt and ginger. Mix in the chopped apples, tossing to coat the fruit lightly.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pour the wet ingredients into the dry and stir gently until just combined. Fold in the nuts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Distribute the batter evenly into the muffin tins and sprinkle each muffin with oats and brown sugar. Place in the oven and bake for 20-25 minutes, until a tester comes out clean.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Remove tin from oven and let muffins cool in the pan for about 10 minutes, then turn the muffins out onto a wire rack to cool completely.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Serve room temperature or slightly warm, with a bit of margarine, butter or coconut butter.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>\u003ca name=\"cake\">\u003c/a>Apple And Butter Cake\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Lush with butter and fragrant with apples, this simple. rich cake is perfect to serve as the finish to a late-September lunch party or simply with a cup of afternoon tea any time. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_71166\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/apples-cake.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/apples-cake.jpg\" alt=\"Apple and Butter Cake. Photo: Nicole Spiridakis for NPR\" width=\"1120\" height=\"819\" class=\"size-full wp-image-71166\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Apple and Butter Cake. Photo: Nicole Spiridakis for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 10 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 large apples, peeled and cored\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon sugar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 teaspoons ground cinnamon\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup butter, at room temperature\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cups sugar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 large eggs\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 cups flour\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 teaspoon baking powder\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup orange juice\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Heat oven to 350 degrees. Grease and flour a tube pan or a springform cake pan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Slice the apples. Put in a small bowl and sprinkle with the sugar and cinnamon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a large bowl, cream the butter and sugar using an electric mixer on medium-high speed. Add the eggs one at a time, beating well to combine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a medium bowl, sift together the dry ingredients and add to butter and sugar mixture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Add the orange juice and vanilla, beating well to form a smooth batter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pour about a third of the batter into pan. Layer with one-half of the apples. Repeat for one more layer, finishing with the batter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place in oven and bake for about 1 1/2 hours until lightly browned and a tester inserted in the middle comes out clean.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Remove from oven and let cool in pan on a rack for 20 minutes, then turn out onto the rack to cool completely.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>\u003ca name=\"salad\">\u003c/a>Apple And Arugula Salad With Lemon Vinaigrette\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>In this salad the sharp bite of arugula is balanced by crisp slices of apples and bound together by a lemony vinaigrette. Use apples that are slightly on the tarter side and make sure they are very firm and fresh.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_71168\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/apples-salad.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/apples-salad.jpg\" alt=\"Apple and Arugula Salad with Lemon Vinaigrette. Photo: Nicole Spiridakis for NPR\" width=\"1120\" height=\"745\" class=\"size-full wp-image-71168\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Apple and Arugula Salad with Lemon Vinaigrette. Photo: Nicole Spiridakis for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Salad\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 large apples, washed\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 cups arugula\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 bunch radishes, thinly sliced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 bunch scallions, thinly sliced (white parts only)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 avocado, skin and pit removed and coarsely sliced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup shelled sunflower seeds, optional\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Vinaigrette\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 shallot, finely diced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon lemon zest\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 teaspoon salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil or to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 teaspoon black pepper\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Thinly slice apples and place in a large salad bowl. Add the arugula, radishes, scallions, avocado and sunflower seeds is using. Lightly toss to combine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the vinaigrette, combine the first four ingredients in a small bowl and let stand for 15 minutes. Then whisk in the oil and season with pepper to taste. Taste to correct the balance, adding more oil if needed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Drizzle dressing over salad, gently tossing and turning to coat lightly. \u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cstrong>About The Author\u003c/strong>\n\u003cp>Nicole Spiridakis lives in San Francisco and writes about food, travel and her native state on her blog, \u003ca href=\"http://www.cucinanicolina.com/\">cucinanicolina.com\u003c/a>. Her work has appeared in \u003cem>The New York Times\u003c/em>, the \u003cem>San Francisco Chronicle\u003c/em>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.chow.com/\">chow.com\u003c/a> and other publications.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "Beyond Cuba: Foods Of Latino-Caribbean Cuisine",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_70587\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/cuban-skirtsteak.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-70587\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/cuban-skirtsteak.jpg\" alt=\"Grilled, Marinated Skirt Steak With Chimichurri Sauce. Photo: Tom Gilbert for NPR\" width=\"1120\" height=\"839\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Grilled, Marinated Skirt Steak With Chimichurri Sauce. Photo: Tom Gilbert for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Tom Gilbert, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2013/09/18/223403648/beyond-cuba-foods-of-latino-caribbean-cuisine\">Kitchen Window at NPR Food\u003c/a> (9/18/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Get recipes for \u003ca href=\"#Steak\">Grilled, Marinated Skirt Steak with Chimichurri Sauce\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#Rice\">White Rice And Black Beans\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#Maduros\">Maduros\u003c/a> (Fried Sweet Plantains), \u003ca href=\"#salad\">Avocado Salad With Salty, Spicy Lime Dressing\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"#Bul\">Bul\u003c/a> (Beer and Lime Juice Shandy).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Looking back on my history with Latino and Caribbean food, I can see that Cuban was a gateway cuisine. Powerless in my youth before \u003cem>moro\u003c/em> rice (black beans and rice cooked together) and \u003cem>ropa vieja\u003c/em> (shredded flank steak slow-cooked in a tomato-based sauce), in middle age I became hooked on the spicy and soulful cooking of the wider Caribbean, which led to eating adventures even farther south of Key West. All of these have left their mark on my backyard grilling style.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It started not with a trip to Cuba or Miami, but with a subway ride to the Upper West Side of Manhattan. This was a long time ago, and there used to be many restaurants there that advertised \u003cem>comida china y criolla\u003c/em>, or Cuban-Chinese food. At first glance, this might seem to be the world's unlikeliest food fusion idea, but if you think about it, the two cuisines have some degree of overlap — rice and seafood, chilies and garlic, limes and cilantro, the centrality of pork, black beans and black bean paste, empanadas and won tons.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The reality was that the Chinese food at these places was dreadful. The Cuban food was mediocre at best, but for me it was a revelation. I had my first \u003cem>batido\u003c/em>, a shake made of fresh tropical fruit, milk, sugar or cane syrup and ice, put through a blender. You could get \u003cem>batidos\u003c/em> made from papaya and mango, and exotic (to me) flavors such as \u003cem>mamey\u003c/em> and \u003cem>guanabana\u003c/em>. I developed a passion for earthy black beans and Cuban sandwiches and pork shoulder roasted until you could carve it with a butter knife and its perfect partner, \u003cem>maduros\u003c/em> (pan-fried ultra-sweet plantains). I can still taste the \u003cem>café con leche\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I followed my stomach across the Hudson River to Union City, N.J., where Bergenline Avenue ran through the center of the largest Cuban-American community outside of Florida. These were the good old days, when you could light up a cigar after dinner in a restaurant, at least in Union City. (One Cuban place had a sign reading: \"Thank You for Smoking\"). Today, the Cuban community is dwindling, and the state has all but driven the cigar shops out of existence, but you can still find great food — not all of it Cuban. Thanks to the American cycle of assimilation and immigration, Union City and surrounding areas have become more multicultural and more multiculinary. Puerto Rican \u003cem>pasteles\u003c/em>, Dominican \u003cem>mofongo\u003c/em> and Salvadoran \u003cem>pupusas\u003c/em> are crashing the party.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This reflects a trend that is evident even in Cuban-dominated Miami. When I traveled to Miami in the 1980s and 1990s, I came in search of the El Dorado of Cuban cuisine — and no doubt found it — but Miami surprised me by widening my eating horizons to include Argentinian grills and Jamaican jerk places and Haitian barbecue joints. These cuisines co-exist, but they also interact, as kitchens and menus cross-pollinate. This makes profound sense — a lot more sense than Cuban-Chinese food — because Caribbean and Latino cooking are already fusion cuisines, with roots in Spain, Africa, the New World, the Canary Islands and even the Middle East.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In Miami, I had chimichurri sauce — the classic Argentine accompaniment to grilled beef — for the first time (oddly enough, at a Nicaraguan place), which I remember the way most people remember their first kiss. Unlike young love, however, the joy of a good steak with chimichurri — maybe with some rice and beans and \u003cem>maduros\u003c/em> on the side — can be rediscovered and relived forever.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>\u003ca name=\"Steak\">\u003c/a>Grilled, Marinated Skirt Steak\u003c/strong> W\u003cstrong>ith Chimichurri Sauce\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Marinating meat in citrus (here, bitter orange juice), onions or garlic, cilantro and various spices is a technique classically used in Cuban cooking with pork shoulder or whole suckling pig. It works just as well with steak, especially skirt and other wide-grained cuts that can use a bit of tenderizing.\u003c/em> \u003cem>Wood charcoal is the best choice for a very hot, dry fire.\u003c/em> \u003cem>Cultural note: Even though \u003c/em>chimichurri \u003cem>sauce comes from Argentina, my Argentinian relatives absolutely cannot wrap their minds around marinating skirt steak in these strong flavors — or anything else. I ignore them and so can you.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Chimichurri Sauce\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup parsley and 1 cup cilantro, finely chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup red onion, very finely chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/3 cup flavorful extra virgin olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 or 2 garlic cloves, smashed, salted and worked into a paste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 pinch of hot pepper flakes (optional)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon lime juice\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon red wine vinegar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Salt and pepper to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Marinade\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cloves of garlic, smashed\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon dried oregano\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup olive oil, plus more for brushing\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cups bitter orange (\u003cem>naranja agria\u003c/em>) juice (available bottled in Latino markets)*\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 medium Spanish onion, thinly sliced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 bunch cilantro\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 1/2 pounds skirt steak\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Combine chimichurri sauce ingredients and refrigerate or let stand (this can be done hours to days ahead of time).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Combine marinade ingredients and pour over skirt steaks in a covered container or zip-lock bag. Marinate for at least 2 to 3 hours and no more than a day or two.**\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Start fire 1 1/2 hours to 1 hour and 45 minutes before cooking. Charcoal must be white and grates extremely hot before steaks are put on grill. Remove steaks from marinade and pat dry; brush lightly with olive oil. Discard marinade.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Grill steaks close to coals so that they develop a dark crust without burning, while leaving the center rare. This usually takes 10 to 20 minutes. After taking them off the grill, brush steaks with a little chimichurri, salt to taste and let them stand on a cutting board for at least 10 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Be sure to slice the meat across — not with — the (rather wide) grain. Serve the remaining chimichurri on the side.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>* A good substitute for bitter orange juice is a 50-50 mix of sweet orange juice and lime juice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>** You can save time by freezing the skirt steaks and the marinade ahead of time in zip-lock bags, immersing them in cold water to defrost several hours before you grill.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>\u003ca name=\"Rice\">\u003c/a>White Rice And Black Beans\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>The challenge of working with dried beans is not only to surround them with flavor, but to cook flavor \u003c/em>into\u003cem> them as well. I know of two ways to do this: long, slow cooking with onions and other vegetables in water or stock flavored with herbs and spices; and cooking them in a pressure cooker. The recipe below, using a pressure cooker, is unconventional, but it works very well and saves hours of cooking, as well as the overnight pre-soak that many dried beans require.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_70586\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 462px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/cuban-rice-and-beans.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-70586\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/cuban-rice-and-beans.jpg\" alt=\"White Rice And Black Beans. Photo: Tom Gilbert for NPR\" width=\"462\" height=\"346\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">White Rice And Black Beans. Photo: Tom Gilbert for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 medium Spanish onion, studded with 2 dozen cloves\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 pound dried black beans\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 chipotle or other dried chili pepper\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cinnamon stick\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 smoked ham hock\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Long-grain white rice (optional)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place all ingredients in a pressure cooker; add 1 cup water.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cook until beans are soft and edible. The time will vary quite a bit, depending on the cooking temperature and equipment; you may have to experiment. Chop meat from ham hock and add to beans. Discard onion and all other ingredients.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Salt and pepper to taste.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Serve with long-grain white rice.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>\u003ca name=\"Maduros\">\u003c/a>Maduros (Fried Sweet Plantains)\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Plantains when fried ripe are called \u003c/em>maduros\u003cem>; when fried unripe they are known as \u003c/em>tostones\u003cem>. \u003c/em>Tostones\u003cem> can be delicious in the same way as good French fries, but the sweetness and slight crunch of fried \u003c/em>maduros\u003cem> are an amazing complement to roasted and grilled meat. Sweet plantains can be ripened on the kitchen counter in warm weather as long as the humidity is not too low. Otherwise, put them in a paper bag in a warm spot. As sold in the store, they will usually be bright yellow and almost mistakable for bananas. They will only achieve the proper sweetness, however, after a week or so, when the peel is alarmingly wrinkled and black, with white mold spots.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_70585\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/cuban-maduro.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-70585\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/cuban-maduro.jpg\" alt=\"Maduros (Fried Sweet Plantains). Photo: Tom Gilbert for NPR\" width=\"1120\" height=\"745\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Maduros (Fried Sweet Plantains). Photo: Tom Gilbert for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 ripe sweet plantains, peeled, cut in half lengthwise and quartered, also lengthwise.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup vegetable oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Heat corn or vegetable oil in a skillet large enough that the plantain pieces are not crowded, until a small piece of bread dropped into the hot oil sizzles a bit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Add plantain sections, turning once after underside is browned.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When both sides are nicely caramelized, drain on a rack or newspaper for a few seconds and serve immediately.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>\u003ca name=\"salad\">\u003c/a>Avocado Salad With Salty, Spicy Lime Dressing\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Many Caribbean and Latino cooks make salads and garnishes featuring the pairing of onion and avocado, which have rich and soft textures that play against the piquant crunch of red onion, the aroma of cilantro, the bite of salt and the tartness of lime juice. I like to add a little garlic, a dash of hot sauce and tomatoes as well.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_70589\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/cuban-avocado-salad.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-70589\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/cuban-avocado-salad.jpg\" alt=\"Avocado Salad With Salty, Spicy Lime Dressing. Photo: Tom Gilbert for NPR\" width=\"1120\" height=\"746\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Avocado Salad With Salty, Spicy Lime Dressing. Photo: Tom Gilbert for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Juice of 1 lime\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 dash hot pepper sauce\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 clove garlic\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Salt and pepper, to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 ripe avocados, thickly sliced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 medium tomatoes, thickly sliced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Several sprigs cilantro, chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 medium red onion, thinly sliced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Prepare dressing by mixing in a jar olive oil, lime juice, hot sauce, mashed garlic and salt and pepper to taste. Be liberal with the salt.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a salad bowl, combine avocado, tomato, cilantro and onion. Add the dressing and toss.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>\u003ca name=\"Bul\">\u003c/a>Bul (Beer And Lime Juice Shandy)\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>The first few times I drank \u003c/em>bul\u003cem>, I could have sworn it contained rum — and possibly also other kinds of alcohol. There is something about the way these ingredients work together that makes you think the final product is far stronger and more complex than it really is.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_70584\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 441px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/cuban-bul.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-70584\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/cuban-bul.jpg\" alt=\"Bul (Beer And Lime Juice Shandy). Photo: Tom Gilbert for NPR\" width=\"441\" height=\"500\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bul (Beer And Lime Juice Shandy). Photo: Tom Gilbert for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 bottles lager beer\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup sugar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Juice of two limes\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ice cubes\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 lime slice and 1 sprig of mint\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Combine all ingredients except lime slice and mint in blender; add ice cubes to nearly fill.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Blend until ice is finely chopped. Pour into pitcher and garnish with lime and mint.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>About The Author\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nTom Gilbert writes about food, baseball, politics and the history of New York City. A longtime resident of Greenpoint, Brooklyn, where he is a notorious home cook, Tom knows the good food places in three NYC boroughs and several Italian regions; he can eat in eight languages and talk about eating in five.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_70587\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/cuban-skirtsteak.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-70587\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/cuban-skirtsteak.jpg\" alt=\"Grilled, Marinated Skirt Steak With Chimichurri Sauce. Photo: Tom Gilbert for NPR\" width=\"1120\" height=\"839\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Grilled, Marinated Skirt Steak With Chimichurri Sauce. Photo: Tom Gilbert for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Tom Gilbert, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2013/09/18/223403648/beyond-cuba-foods-of-latino-caribbean-cuisine\">Kitchen Window at NPR Food\u003c/a> (9/18/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Get recipes for \u003ca href=\"#Steak\">Grilled, Marinated Skirt Steak with Chimichurri Sauce\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#Rice\">White Rice And Black Beans\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#Maduros\">Maduros\u003c/a> (Fried Sweet Plantains), \u003ca href=\"#salad\">Avocado Salad With Salty, Spicy Lime Dressing\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"#Bul\">Bul\u003c/a> (Beer and Lime Juice Shandy).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Looking back on my history with Latino and Caribbean food, I can see that Cuban was a gateway cuisine. Powerless in my youth before \u003cem>moro\u003c/em> rice (black beans and rice cooked together) and \u003cem>ropa vieja\u003c/em> (shredded flank steak slow-cooked in a tomato-based sauce), in middle age I became hooked on the spicy and soulful cooking of the wider Caribbean, which led to eating adventures even farther south of Key West. All of these have left their mark on my backyard grilling style.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It started not with a trip to Cuba or Miami, but with a subway ride to the Upper West Side of Manhattan. This was a long time ago, and there used to be many restaurants there that advertised \u003cem>comida china y criolla\u003c/em>, or Cuban-Chinese food. At first glance, this might seem to be the world's unlikeliest food fusion idea, but if you think about it, the two cuisines have some degree of overlap — rice and seafood, chilies and garlic, limes and cilantro, the centrality of pork, black beans and black bean paste, empanadas and won tons.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The reality was that the Chinese food at these places was dreadful. The Cuban food was mediocre at best, but for me it was a revelation. I had my first \u003cem>batido\u003c/em>, a shake made of fresh tropical fruit, milk, sugar or cane syrup and ice, put through a blender. You could get \u003cem>batidos\u003c/em> made from papaya and mango, and exotic (to me) flavors such as \u003cem>mamey\u003c/em> and \u003cem>guanabana\u003c/em>. I developed a passion for earthy black beans and Cuban sandwiches and pork shoulder roasted until you could carve it with a butter knife and its perfect partner, \u003cem>maduros\u003c/em> (pan-fried ultra-sweet plantains). I can still taste the \u003cem>café con leche\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I followed my stomach across the Hudson River to Union City, N.J., where Bergenline Avenue ran through the center of the largest Cuban-American community outside of Florida. These were the good old days, when you could light up a cigar after dinner in a restaurant, at least in Union City. (One Cuban place had a sign reading: \"Thank You for Smoking\"). Today, the Cuban community is dwindling, and the state has all but driven the cigar shops out of existence, but you can still find great food — not all of it Cuban. Thanks to the American cycle of assimilation and immigration, Union City and surrounding areas have become more multicultural and more multiculinary. Puerto Rican \u003cem>pasteles\u003c/em>, Dominican \u003cem>mofongo\u003c/em> and Salvadoran \u003cem>pupusas\u003c/em> are crashing the party.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This reflects a trend that is evident even in Cuban-dominated Miami. When I traveled to Miami in the 1980s and 1990s, I came in search of the El Dorado of Cuban cuisine — and no doubt found it — but Miami surprised me by widening my eating horizons to include Argentinian grills and Jamaican jerk places and Haitian barbecue joints. These cuisines co-exist, but they also interact, as kitchens and menus cross-pollinate. This makes profound sense — a lot more sense than Cuban-Chinese food — because Caribbean and Latino cooking are already fusion cuisines, with roots in Spain, Africa, the New World, the Canary Islands and even the Middle East.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In Miami, I had chimichurri sauce — the classic Argentine accompaniment to grilled beef — for the first time (oddly enough, at a Nicaraguan place), which I remember the way most people remember their first kiss. Unlike young love, however, the joy of a good steak with chimichurri — maybe with some rice and beans and \u003cem>maduros\u003c/em> on the side — can be rediscovered and relived forever.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>\u003ca name=\"Steak\">\u003c/a>Grilled, Marinated Skirt Steak\u003c/strong> W\u003cstrong>ith Chimichurri Sauce\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Marinating meat in citrus (here, bitter orange juice), onions or garlic, cilantro and various spices is a technique classically used in Cuban cooking with pork shoulder or whole suckling pig. It works just as well with steak, especially skirt and other wide-grained cuts that can use a bit of tenderizing.\u003c/em> \u003cem>Wood charcoal is the best choice for a very hot, dry fire.\u003c/em> \u003cem>Cultural note: Even though \u003c/em>chimichurri \u003cem>sauce comes from Argentina, my Argentinian relatives absolutely cannot wrap their minds around marinating skirt steak in these strong flavors — or anything else. I ignore them and so can you.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Chimichurri Sauce\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup parsley and 1 cup cilantro, finely chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup red onion, very finely chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/3 cup flavorful extra virgin olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 or 2 garlic cloves, smashed, salted and worked into a paste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 pinch of hot pepper flakes (optional)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon lime juice\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon red wine vinegar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Salt and pepper to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Marinade\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cloves of garlic, smashed\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon dried oregano\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup olive oil, plus more for brushing\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cups bitter orange (\u003cem>naranja agria\u003c/em>) juice (available bottled in Latino markets)*\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 medium Spanish onion, thinly sliced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 bunch cilantro\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 1/2 pounds skirt steak\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Combine chimichurri sauce ingredients and refrigerate or let stand (this can be done hours to days ahead of time).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Combine marinade ingredients and pour over skirt steaks in a covered container or zip-lock bag. Marinate for at least 2 to 3 hours and no more than a day or two.**\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Start fire 1 1/2 hours to 1 hour and 45 minutes before cooking. Charcoal must be white and grates extremely hot before steaks are put on grill. Remove steaks from marinade and pat dry; brush lightly with olive oil. Discard marinade.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Grill steaks close to coals so that they develop a dark crust without burning, while leaving the center rare. This usually takes 10 to 20 minutes. After taking them off the grill, brush steaks with a little chimichurri, salt to taste and let them stand on a cutting board for at least 10 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Be sure to slice the meat across — not with — the (rather wide) grain. Serve the remaining chimichurri on the side.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>* A good substitute for bitter orange juice is a 50-50 mix of sweet orange juice and lime juice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>** You can save time by freezing the skirt steaks and the marinade ahead of time in zip-lock bags, immersing them in cold water to defrost several hours before you grill.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>\u003ca name=\"Rice\">\u003c/a>White Rice And Black Beans\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>The challenge of working with dried beans is not only to surround them with flavor, but to cook flavor \u003c/em>into\u003cem> them as well. I know of two ways to do this: long, slow cooking with onions and other vegetables in water or stock flavored with herbs and spices; and cooking them in a pressure cooker. The recipe below, using a pressure cooker, is unconventional, but it works very well and saves hours of cooking, as well as the overnight pre-soak that many dried beans require.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_70586\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 462px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/cuban-rice-and-beans.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-70586\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/cuban-rice-and-beans.jpg\" alt=\"White Rice And Black Beans. Photo: Tom Gilbert for NPR\" width=\"462\" height=\"346\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">White Rice And Black Beans. Photo: Tom Gilbert for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 medium Spanish onion, studded with 2 dozen cloves\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 pound dried black beans\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 chipotle or other dried chili pepper\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cinnamon stick\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 smoked ham hock\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Long-grain white rice (optional)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place all ingredients in a pressure cooker; add 1 cup water.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cook until beans are soft and edible. The time will vary quite a bit, depending on the cooking temperature and equipment; you may have to experiment. Chop meat from ham hock and add to beans. Discard onion and all other ingredients.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Salt and pepper to taste.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Serve with long-grain white rice.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>\u003ca name=\"Maduros\">\u003c/a>Maduros (Fried Sweet Plantains)\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Plantains when fried ripe are called \u003c/em>maduros\u003cem>; when fried unripe they are known as \u003c/em>tostones\u003cem>. \u003c/em>Tostones\u003cem> can be delicious in the same way as good French fries, but the sweetness and slight crunch of fried \u003c/em>maduros\u003cem> are an amazing complement to roasted and grilled meat. Sweet plantains can be ripened on the kitchen counter in warm weather as long as the humidity is not too low. Otherwise, put them in a paper bag in a warm spot. As sold in the store, they will usually be bright yellow and almost mistakable for bananas. They will only achieve the proper sweetness, however, after a week or so, when the peel is alarmingly wrinkled and black, with white mold spots.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_70585\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/cuban-maduro.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-70585\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/cuban-maduro.jpg\" alt=\"Maduros (Fried Sweet Plantains). Photo: Tom Gilbert for NPR\" width=\"1120\" height=\"745\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Maduros (Fried Sweet Plantains). Photo: Tom Gilbert for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 ripe sweet plantains, peeled, cut in half lengthwise and quartered, also lengthwise.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup vegetable oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Heat corn or vegetable oil in a skillet large enough that the plantain pieces are not crowded, until a small piece of bread dropped into the hot oil sizzles a bit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Add plantain sections, turning once after underside is browned.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When both sides are nicely caramelized, drain on a rack or newspaper for a few seconds and serve immediately.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>\u003ca name=\"salad\">\u003c/a>Avocado Salad With Salty, Spicy Lime Dressing\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Many Caribbean and Latino cooks make salads and garnishes featuring the pairing of onion and avocado, which have rich and soft textures that play against the piquant crunch of red onion, the aroma of cilantro, the bite of salt and the tartness of lime juice. I like to add a little garlic, a dash of hot sauce and tomatoes as well.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_70589\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/cuban-avocado-salad.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-70589\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/cuban-avocado-salad.jpg\" alt=\"Avocado Salad With Salty, Spicy Lime Dressing. Photo: Tom Gilbert for NPR\" width=\"1120\" height=\"746\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Avocado Salad With Salty, Spicy Lime Dressing. Photo: Tom Gilbert for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Juice of 1 lime\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 dash hot pepper sauce\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 clove garlic\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Salt and pepper, to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 ripe avocados, thickly sliced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 medium tomatoes, thickly sliced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Several sprigs cilantro, chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 medium red onion, thinly sliced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Prepare dressing by mixing in a jar olive oil, lime juice, hot sauce, mashed garlic and salt and pepper to taste. Be liberal with the salt.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a salad bowl, combine avocado, tomato, cilantro and onion. Add the dressing and toss.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>\u003ca name=\"Bul\">\u003c/a>Bul (Beer And Lime Juice Shandy)\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>The first few times I drank \u003c/em>bul\u003cem>, I could have sworn it contained rum — and possibly also other kinds of alcohol. There is something about the way these ingredients work together that makes you think the final product is far stronger and more complex than it really is.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_70584\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 441px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/cuban-bul.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-70584\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/cuban-bul.jpg\" alt=\"Bul (Beer And Lime Juice Shandy). Photo: Tom Gilbert for NPR\" width=\"441\" height=\"500\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bul (Beer And Lime Juice Shandy). Photo: Tom Gilbert for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 bottles lager beer\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup sugar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Juice of two limes\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ice cubes\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 lime slice and 1 sprig of mint\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Combine all ingredients except lime slice and mint in blender; add ice cubes to nearly fill.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Blend until ice is finely chopped. Pour into pitcher and garnish with lime and mint.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>About The Author\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nTom Gilbert writes about food, baseball, politics and the history of New York City. A longtime resident of Greenpoint, Brooklyn, where he is a notorious home cook, Tom knows the good food places in three NYC boroughs and several Italian regions; he can eat in eight languages and talk about eating in five.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"info": "A one-hour radio program to hear celebrated writers, artists and thinkers address contemporary ideas and values, often discussing the creative process. Please note: tapes or transcripts are not available",
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"airtime": "SUN 1pm-2pm, TUE 10pm, WED 1am",
"meta": {
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"source": "City Arts & Lectures"
},
"link": "https://www.cityarts.net",
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"rss": "https://www.cityarts.net/feed/"
}
},
"closealltabs": {
"id": "closealltabs",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "/podcasts/closealltabs",
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"order": 1
},
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"id": "code-switch-life-kit",
"title": "Code Switch / Life Kit",
"info": "\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em>, which listeners will hear in the first part of the hour, has fearless and much-needed conversations about race. Hosted by journalists of color, the show tackles the subject of race head-on, exploring how it impacts every part of society — from politics and pop culture to history, sports and more.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em>, which will be in the second part of the hour, guides you through spaces and feelings no one prepares you for — from finances to mental health, from workplace microaggressions to imposter syndrome, from relationships to parenting. The show features experts with real world experience and shares their knowledge. Because everyone needs a little help being human.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/510312/codeswitch\">\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/lifekit\">\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />",
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"id": "commonwealth-club",
"title": "Commonwealth Club of California Podcast",
"info": "The Commonwealth Club of California is the nation's oldest and largest public affairs forum. As a non-partisan forum, The Club brings to the public airwaves diverse viewpoints on important topics. The Club's weekly radio broadcast - the oldest in the U.S., dating back to 1924 - is carried across the nation on public radio stations and is now podcasting. Our website archive features audio of our recent programs, as well as selected speeches from our long and distinguished history. This podcast feed is usually updated twice a week and is always un-edited.",
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"meta": {
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"source": "Commonwealth Club of California"
},
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cDovL3d3dy5jb21tb253ZWFsdGhjbHViLm9yZy9hdWRpby9wb2RjYXN0L3dlZWtseS54bWw",
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"title": "Forum",
"tagline": "The conversation starts here",
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"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Forum-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
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"order": 9
},
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM5NTU3MzgxNjMz",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "http://freakonomics.com/",
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"meta": {
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"source": "WNYC"
},
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/freakonomics-radio/id354668519",
"tuneIn": "https://tunein.com/podcasts/WNYC-Podcasts/Freakonomics-Radio-p272293/",
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},
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"id": "fresh-air",
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=214089682&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory",
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"info": "A live production of NPR and WBUR Boston, in collaboration with stations across the country, Here & Now reflects the fluid world of news as it's happening in the middle of the day, with timely, in-depth news, interviews and conversation. Hosted by Robin Young, Jeremy Hobson and Tonya Mosley.",
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"hidden-brain": {
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"info": "Shankar Vedantam uses science and storytelling to reveal the unconscious patterns that drive human behavior, shape our choices and direct our relationships.",
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"airtime": "SUN 7pm-8pm",
"meta": {
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"source": "NPR"
},
"link": "/radio/program/hidden-brain",
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"how-i-built-this": {
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"title": "How I Built This with Guy Raz",
"info": "Guy Raz dives into the stories behind some of the world's best known companies. How I Built This weaves a narrative journey about innovators, entrepreneurs and idealists—and the movements they built.",
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"airtime": "SUN 7:30pm-8pm",
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"link": "/radio/program/how-i-built-this",
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/how-i-built-this-with-guy-raz/id1150510297?mt=2",
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"hyphenacion": {
"id": "hyphenacion",
"title": "Hyphenación",
"tagline": "Where conversation and cultura meet",
"info": "What kind of no sabo word is Hyphenación? For us, it’s about living within a hyphenation. Like being a third-gen Mexican-American from the Texas border now living that Bay Area Chicano life. Like Xorje! Each week we bring together a couple of hyphenated Latinos to talk all about personal life choices: family, careers, relationships, belonging … everything is on the table. ",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2025/03/Hyphenacion_FinalAssets_PodcastTile.png",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "/podcasts/hyphenacion",
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"order": 15
},
"link": "/podcasts/hyphenacion",
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"spotify": "https://open.spotify.com/show/2p3Fifq96nw9BPcmFdIq0o?si=39209f7b25774f38",
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},
"jerrybrown": {
"id": "jerrybrown",
"title": "The Political Mind of Jerry Brown",
"tagline": "Lessons from a lifetime in politics",
"info": "The Political Mind of Jerry Brown brings listeners the wisdom of the former Governor, Mayor, and presidential candidate. Scott Shafer interviewed Brown for more than 40 hours, covering the former governor's life and half-century in the political game – and Brown has some lessons he'd like to share. ",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/The-Political-Mind-of-Jerry-Brown-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "/podcasts/jerrybrown",
"meta": {
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"order": 18
},
"link": "/podcasts/jerrybrown",
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/id1492194549",
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},
"latino-usa": {
"id": "latino-usa",
"title": "Latino USA",
"airtime": "MON 1am-2am, SUN 6pm-7pm",
"info": "Latino USA, the radio journal of news and culture, is the only national, English-language radio program produced from a Latino perspective.",
"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/latinoUsa.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "http://latinousa.org/",
"meta": {
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},
"link": "/radio/program/latino-usa",
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=79681317&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory",
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"rss": "https://feeds.npr.org/510016/podcast.xml"
}
},
"marketplace": {
"id": "marketplace",
"title": "Marketplace",
"info": "Our flagship program, helmed by Kai Ryssdal, examines what the day in money delivered, through stories, conversations, newsworthy numbers and more. Updated Monday through Friday at about 3:30 p.m. PT.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 4pm-4:30pm, MON-WED 6:30pm-7pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Marketplace-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.marketplace.org/",
"meta": {
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"source": "American Public Media"
},
"link": "/radio/program/marketplace",
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},
"masters-of-scale": {
"id": "masters-of-scale",
"title": "Masters of Scale",
"info": "Masters of Scale is an original podcast in which LinkedIn co-founder and Greylock Partner Reid Hoffman sets out to describe and prove theories that explain how great entrepreneurs take their companies from zero to a gazillion in ingenious fashion.",
"airtime": "Every other Wednesday June 12 through October 16 at 8pm (repeats Thursdays at 2am)",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "https://mastersofscale.com/",
"meta": {
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"source": "WaitWhat"
},
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"rss": "https://rss.art19.com/masters-of-scale"
}
},
"mindshift": {
"id": "mindshift",
"title": "MindShift",
"tagline": "A podcast about the future of learning and how we raise our kids",
"info": "The MindShift podcast explores the innovations in education that are shaping how kids learn. Hosts Ki Sung and Katrina Schwartz introduce listeners to educators, researchers, parents and students who are developing effective ways to improve how kids learn. We cover topics like how fed-up administrators are developing surprising tactics to deal with classroom disruptions; how listening to podcasts are helping kids develop reading skills; the consequences of overparenting; and why interdisciplinary learning can engage students on all ends of the traditional achievement spectrum. This podcast is part of the MindShift education site, a division of KQED News. KQED is an NPR/PBS member station based in San Francisco. You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Mindshift-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
"imageAlt": "KQED MindShift: How We Will Learn",
"officialWebsiteLink": "/mindshift/",
"meta": {
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"source": "kqed",
"order": 12
},
"link": "/podcasts/mindshift",
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM1NzY0NjAwNDI5",
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}
},
"morning-edition": {
"id": "morning-edition",
"title": "Morning Edition",
"info": "\u003cem>Morning Edition\u003c/em> takes listeners around the country and the world with multi-faceted stories and commentaries every weekday. Hosts Steve Inskeep, David Greene and Rachel Martin bring you the latest breaking news and features to prepare you for the day.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 3am-9am",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Morning-Edition-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.npr.org/programs/morning-edition/",
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"link": "/radio/program/morning-edition"
},
"onourwatch": {
"id": "onourwatch",
"title": "On Our Watch",
"tagline": "Deeply-reported investigative journalism",
"info": "For decades, the process for how police police themselves has been inconsistent – if not opaque. In some states, like California, these proceedings were completely hidden. After a new police transparency law unsealed scores of internal affairs files, our reporters set out to examine these cases and the shadow world of police discipline. On Our Watch brings listeners into the rooms where officers are questioned and witnesses are interrogated to find out who this system is really protecting. Is it the officers, or the public they've sworn to serve?",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/On-Our-Watch-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "/podcasts/onourwatch",
"meta": {
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"source": "kqed",
"order": 11
},
"link": "/podcasts/onourwatch",
"subscribe": {
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5ucHIub3JnLzUxMDM2MC9wb2RjYXN0LnhtbD9zYz1nb29nbGVwb2RjYXN0cw",
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},
"on-the-media": {
"id": "on-the-media",
"title": "On The Media",
"info": "Our weekly podcast explores how the media 'sausage' is made, casts an incisive eye on fluctuations in the marketplace of ideas, and examines threats to the freedom of information and expression in America and abroad. For one hour a week, the show tries to lift the veil from the process of \"making media,\" especially news media, because it's through that lens that we see the world and the world sees us",
"airtime": "SUN 2pm-3pm, MON 12am-1am",
"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/onTheMedia.png",
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"meta": {
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"source": "wnyc"
},
"link": "/radio/program/on-the-media",
"subscribe": {
"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/on-the-media/id73330715?mt=2",
"tuneIn": "https://tunein.com/radio/On-the-Media-p69/",
"rss": "http://feeds.wnyc.org/onthemedia"
}
},
"pbs-newshour": {
"id": "pbs-newshour",
"title": "PBS NewsHour",
"info": "Analysis, background reports and updates from the PBS NewsHour putting today's news in context.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 3pm-4pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/PBS-News-Hour-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.pbs.org/newshour/",
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"source": "pbs"
},
"link": "/radio/program/pbs-newshour",
"subscribe": {
"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/pbs-newshour-full-show/id394432287?mt=2",
"tuneIn": "https://tunein.com/radio/PBS-NewsHour---Full-Show-p425698/",
"rss": "https://www.pbs.org/newshour/feeds/rss/podcasts/show"
}
},
"perspectives": {
"id": "perspectives",
"title": "Perspectives",
"tagline": "KQED's series of daily listener commentaries since 1991",
"info": "KQED's series of daily listener commentaries since 1991.",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2025/01/Perspectives_Tile_Final.jpg",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "/perspectives/",
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"source": "kqed",
"order": 14
},
"link": "/perspectives",
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