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"disqusTitle": "What To Do About Your Recalled Meat",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78661\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/4669193811-640x375.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/4669193811-640x375.jpg\" alt=\"Cattle grazing. Photo: Frederic J. Brown/AFP-Getty Images\" width=\"640\" height=\"375\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78661\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cattle grazing. Photo: Frederic J. Brown/AFP-Getty Images\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Last week, Petaluma company \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/news/2014/02/09/petaluma-firm-recalls-possibly-tainted-beef\" target=\"_blank\">Rancho Feeding Corp. was forced to recall nearly 9 million pounds of beef that had come from its slaughterhouse\u003c/a>. Although no human illnesses have been reported, the recall was enacted because of diseased animals processed in the plant. Because the 9 million pounds of beef came from over 1,000 producers, the list of products that use the meat is long. \u003ca href=\"http://www.pressdemocrat.com/article/20140218/articles/140219545\" target=\"_blank\">The nearly full list of items recalled because of the tainted beef can be found here\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Christine Bruhn, a PhD in consumer behavior and food science at UC Davis, said that if you have food that has been recalled -- meat or vegetables -- you should return it to the place you bought it and receive a refund.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"If there's been a recall, that's serious and it's not to be taken lightly,\" said Bruhn.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>People often think that if the food doesn't look bad or doesn't taste bad -- even though it's been recalled -- then it's fine, but that's absolutely not the case, said Bruhn. There have been more than a few examples, she said, of people knowing their food was recalled, but thinking they could just cook it longer or that it seemed ok, and then getting sick from the bacteria or contamination.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Don't eat it. Don't try to cook it longer. Don't say, 'oh it looks alright,'\" she said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All food recalls can be found on \u003ca href=\"http://www.fsis.usda.gov/wps/portal/fsis/topics/recalls-and-public-health-alerts/current-recalls-and-alerts/current-recalls-and-alerts\" target=\"_blank\">USDA's website's list of recalls\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bruhn points out, though, that if it's a serious or large recall then it will typically be covered in the local news, as this beef recall has been.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The slaughterhouse initially recalled a smaller amount of beef in January, reportedly because of a problem with inspections. That, however, was expanded last week and there is now \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/news/2014/02/24/rep-jared-huffman-prosecutors-investigating-petaluma-slaughterhouse/\" target=\"_blank\">a federal investigation over attempts to deliberately deceive inspectors\u003c/a>. \u003cem>The San Francisco Chronicle\u003c/em> \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/health/article/Slaughterhouse-accused-of-selling-meat-from-cows-5267836.php\" target=\"_blank\">reported\u003c/a> that those attempts at deception included selling meat from cows with eye cancer after chopping off their heads to avoid detection.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While no people have become sick from this beef, ordering a recall is costly to the businesses, said Bruhn, so regulators don't do it lightly. Consumers are supposed to get their money back when they return a recalled item.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In fact, this is so costly that some local well-known ranchers, like Bill Niman, have said they could lose $300,000-$400,000 from throwing away thousands of pounds of meat that was processed at the facility.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All of these issues have caused the slaughterhouse to shut down, which is problematic for meat producers in the Bay Area like Niman. Since that was the only slaughterhouse in the area, \u003ca href=\"http://www.californiareport.org/archive/R201402211630/d\" target=\"_blank\">many of the local beef farms in the region are now having to travel hours to have their meat processed\u003c/a>. This, in some cases, is counter-intuitive to the mission of local, grass-fed meat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That's why David Evans, of Marin Sun Farms, announced his plans to buy and operate the slaughterhouse. If those plans go through, it could still be months before the slaughterhouse reopens.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>David Evans spoke on KQED's Forum about his plans. Listen here:\u003c/p>\n\u003cdiv>\u003ciframe src=\"https://w.soundcloud.com/player/?url=https%3A//api.soundcloud.com/tracks/136546091&auto_play=false&hide_related=false&visual=true\" frameborder=\"no\" scrolling=\"no\" width=\"100%\">\u003c/iframe>\u003c/div>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>KQED's Mina Kim also spoke with food safety experts about the investigation into the slaughterhouse:\u003c/p>\n\u003cdiv>\u003ciframe width=\"100%\" scrolling=\"no\" frameborder=\"no\" src=\"https://w.soundcloud.com/player/?url=https%3A//api.soundcloud.com/tracks/136956581&auto_play=false&hide_related=false&visual=true\">\u003c/iframe>\u003c/div>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Petaluma's Rancho Feeding Corp. has shut down and is being investigated after having been forced to recall nearly 9 million pounds of meat. The shutdown is affecting a number of local meat producers and consumers. Any tainted beef should be thrown out.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78661\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/4669193811-640x375.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/4669193811-640x375.jpg\" alt=\"Cattle grazing. Photo: Frederic J. Brown/AFP-Getty Images\" width=\"640\" height=\"375\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78661\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cattle grazing. Photo: Frederic J. Brown/AFP-Getty Images\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Last week, Petaluma company \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/news/2014/02/09/petaluma-firm-recalls-possibly-tainted-beef\" target=\"_blank\">Rancho Feeding Corp. was forced to recall nearly 9 million pounds of beef that had come from its slaughterhouse\u003c/a>. Although no human illnesses have been reported, the recall was enacted because of diseased animals processed in the plant. Because the 9 million pounds of beef came from over 1,000 producers, the list of products that use the meat is long. \u003ca href=\"http://www.pressdemocrat.com/article/20140218/articles/140219545\" target=\"_blank\">The nearly full list of items recalled because of the tainted beef can be found here\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Christine Bruhn, a PhD in consumer behavior and food science at UC Davis, said that if you have food that has been recalled -- meat or vegetables -- you should return it to the place you bought it and receive a refund.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"If there's been a recall, that's serious and it's not to be taken lightly,\" said Bruhn.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>People often think that if the food doesn't look bad or doesn't taste bad -- even though it's been recalled -- then it's fine, but that's absolutely not the case, said Bruhn. There have been more than a few examples, she said, of people knowing their food was recalled, but thinking they could just cook it longer or that it seemed ok, and then getting sick from the bacteria or contamination.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Don't eat it. Don't try to cook it longer. Don't say, 'oh it looks alright,'\" she said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All food recalls can be found on \u003ca href=\"http://www.fsis.usda.gov/wps/portal/fsis/topics/recalls-and-public-health-alerts/current-recalls-and-alerts/current-recalls-and-alerts\" target=\"_blank\">USDA's website's list of recalls\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bruhn points out, though, that if it's a serious or large recall then it will typically be covered in the local news, as this beef recall has been.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The slaughterhouse initially recalled a smaller amount of beef in January, reportedly because of a problem with inspections. That, however, was expanded last week and there is now \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/news/2014/02/24/rep-jared-huffman-prosecutors-investigating-petaluma-slaughterhouse/\" target=\"_blank\">a federal investigation over attempts to deliberately deceive inspectors\u003c/a>. \u003cem>The San Francisco Chronicle\u003c/em> \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/health/article/Slaughterhouse-accused-of-selling-meat-from-cows-5267836.php\" target=\"_blank\">reported\u003c/a> that those attempts at deception included selling meat from cows with eye cancer after chopping off their heads to avoid detection.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While no people have become sick from this beef, ordering a recall is costly to the businesses, said Bruhn, so regulators don't do it lightly. Consumers are supposed to get their money back when they return a recalled item.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In fact, this is so costly that some local well-known ranchers, like Bill Niman, have said they could lose $300,000-$400,000 from throwing away thousands of pounds of meat that was processed at the facility.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All of these issues have caused the slaughterhouse to shut down, which is problematic for meat producers in the Bay Area like Niman. Since that was the only slaughterhouse in the area, \u003ca href=\"http://www.californiareport.org/archive/R201402211630/d\" target=\"_blank\">many of the local beef farms in the region are now having to travel hours to have their meat processed\u003c/a>. This, in some cases, is counter-intuitive to the mission of local, grass-fed meat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That's why David Evans, of Marin Sun Farms, announced his plans to buy and operate the slaughterhouse. If those plans go through, it could still be months before the slaughterhouse reopens.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>David Evans spoke on KQED's Forum about his plans. Listen here:\u003c/p>\n\u003cdiv>\u003ciframe src=\"https://w.soundcloud.com/player/?url=https%3A//api.soundcloud.com/tracks/136546091&auto_play=false&hide_related=false&visual=true\" frameborder=\"no\" scrolling=\"no\" width=\"100%\">\u003c/iframe>\u003c/div>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>KQED's Mina Kim also spoke with food safety experts about the investigation into the slaughterhouse:\u003c/p>\n\u003cdiv>\u003ciframe width=\"100%\" scrolling=\"no\" frameborder=\"no\" src=\"https://w.soundcloud.com/player/?url=https%3A//api.soundcloud.com/tracks/136956581&auto_play=false&hide_related=false&visual=true\">\u003c/iframe>\u003c/div>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Sriracha Maker Given More Time to Contain Spicy Fumes",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78669\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1448px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/ap558431719885-fa15ca3ba746e3fbdc3f7f474100769ca3611b0b.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/ap558431719885-fa15ca3ba746e3fbdc3f7f474100769ca3611b0b.jpg\" alt=\"Sriracha chili sauce is produced at the Huy Fong Foods factory in Irwindale, Calif. Photo: Nick Ut/AP\" width=\"1448\" height=\"1086\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78669\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sriracha chili sauce is produced at the Huy Fong Foods factory in Irwindale, Calif. Photo: Nick Ut/AP\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/2100211/karen-grigsby-bates\" target=\"_blank\">Karen Grigsby Bates\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2014/02/27/283307892/sriracha-maker-given-more-time-to-contain-spicy-fumes\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a> (2/27/2014)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2014/02/27/283307892/sriracha-maker-given-more-time-to-contain-spicy-fumes\">Morning Edition\u003c/a> [audio src=\"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2014/02/20140227_me_sriracha_maker_given_more_time_to_contain_spicy_fumes.mp3\"] \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The saga over the darling of the condiment world, Sriracha, continues.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The popular hot sauce in the rooster bottle is made by Huy Fong Foods in the Los Angeles suburb of Irwindale. The city has had to balance its need for business success against complaints from some residents about spicy fumes from the plant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wednesday night, after a contentious hearing, Irwindale's city council decided to give Huy Fong a bit more time to figure out how to contain those fumes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sriracha, the hot sauce for hipsters (and the rest of us) has gotten widespread national attention since some Irwindale residents complained. They say that when the red jalapenos that give the sauce its distinctive color are crushed, the fumes from the chiles become a big problem. Last fall, during grinding season, Yolanda Wested told CBS News she couldn't stay outside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We had a bridal shower, we had to have the guests go inside, because they were choking, hacking, it was right in the throat,\" said Wested.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The people who have complained say in the 12-week period in which Huy Fong Foods grinds its fresh jalapenos, the air is downright dangerous. Young Whang is the proprietor of a liquor store right across from Huy Fong headquarters, and she doesn't agree.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I don't smell any,\" says Whang. \"I came to my customer, I ask her sometime — 'you smell any?' They say no.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But in a city with a population just under 1500, even a few complaints matter. Writer D.J. Waldie has spent several decades chronicling the evolution of Southern California's suburbs. He says Irwindale's size is a large part of why the local government is taking these complaints so seriously.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"City councils, particularly in small communities, have a very small electorate, and they have to worry about the anger or uncertainty of just a few hundred people,\" says Waldie.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Maybe even fewer than that. The South Coast Air Quality Management District told NPR that while 61 complaints about Irwindale's eye-watering air had been received since October, 41 of those complaints came from only 4 addresses. Media manager Sam Atwood said agency personnel investigated most complaints, but could only trace the odor to Huy Fong on three days.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So: Revenue and the cachet of producing one of the world's most recognized condiments, or occasionally irritating the sensitivities of a few residents — what carries more weight?\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78670\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1448px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/ap925069027143-b10c36942935e919dd962565e67e43cc38910ec7.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/ap925069027143-b10c36942935e919dd962565e67e43cc38910ec7.jpg\" alt=\"All heat and spice inside the Huy Fong Foods grinding rooms. Photo: Nick Ut/ASSOCIATED PRESS\" width=\"1448\" height=\"1087\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78670\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">All heat and spice inside the Huy Fong Foods grinding rooms. Photo: Nick Ut/ASSOCIATED PRESS\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"Both have decent arguments, says Jody Armour, law professor at the University of Southern California. \"But that's what makes it a tough case in a lot of ways.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Armour says the Huy Fong clash with its neighbors represents two legitimate, competing interests. On the one hand, Armour points out, you have mostly-Latino neighbors who strive to maintain well-kept blocks and don't want to see — or smell — any slippage in standards.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Communities of color are concerned with being blighted,\" says Armour.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On the other side is David Tran, who came to the United States with nothing as a Vietnamese refugee. His entrepreneurial spark turned a taste of home into 60 million dollars in sales last year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Filmmaker Griffin Hammond produced a documentary called Sriracha with David Tran's cooperation. While filming, Hammond visited the factory during grinding season. He says that while the smell inside the grinding room can be \"pretty unbearable,\" it is barely noticeable from outside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Once I stepped outside the grinding room, I didn't smell it anymore,\" says Hammond. \"They have it nicely cordoned off. And every time I've stepped outside the factory, I've never smelled it.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wednesday night, representatives from the Air Quality Management District read a letter at the city council meeting offering to work with Tran to \"suggest and evaluate\" ventilation designs that would resolve odor issues, so he and Irwindale can coexist peacefully.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, people in other cities, including some on the East Coast, have invited David Tran to move Huy Fong to their region. Filmmaker Griffin Hammond believes that's highly unlikely.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Of course they're not going to move to Philadelphia,\" says Hammond. \"There are no fields of red jalapenos in Pennsylvania.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Although they \u003cem>do\u003c/em> put Sriracha on cheese steaks... \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78669\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1448px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/ap558431719885-fa15ca3ba746e3fbdc3f7f474100769ca3611b0b.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/ap558431719885-fa15ca3ba746e3fbdc3f7f474100769ca3611b0b.jpg\" alt=\"Sriracha chili sauce is produced at the Huy Fong Foods factory in Irwindale, Calif. Photo: Nick Ut/AP\" width=\"1448\" height=\"1086\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78669\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sriracha chili sauce is produced at the Huy Fong Foods factory in Irwindale, Calif. Photo: Nick Ut/AP\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/2100211/karen-grigsby-bates\" target=\"_blank\">Karen Grigsby Bates\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2014/02/27/283307892/sriracha-maker-given-more-time-to-contain-spicy-fumes\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a> (2/27/2014)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2014/02/27/283307892/sriracha-maker-given-more-time-to-contain-spicy-fumes\">Morning Edition\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The saga over the darling of the condiment world, Sriracha, continues.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The popular hot sauce in the rooster bottle is made by Huy Fong Foods in the Los Angeles suburb of Irwindale. The city has had to balance its need for business success against complaints from some residents about spicy fumes from the plant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wednesday night, after a contentious hearing, Irwindale's city council decided to give Huy Fong a bit more time to figure out how to contain those fumes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sriracha, the hot sauce for hipsters (and the rest of us) has gotten widespread national attention since some Irwindale residents complained. They say that when the red jalapenos that give the sauce its distinctive color are crushed, the fumes from the chiles become a big problem. Last fall, during grinding season, Yolanda Wested told CBS News she couldn't stay outside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We had a bridal shower, we had to have the guests go inside, because they were choking, hacking, it was right in the throat,\" said Wested.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The people who have complained say in the 12-week period in which Huy Fong Foods grinds its fresh jalapenos, the air is downright dangerous. Young Whang is the proprietor of a liquor store right across from Huy Fong headquarters, and she doesn't agree.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I don't smell any,\" says Whang. \"I came to my customer, I ask her sometime — 'you smell any?' They say no.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But in a city with a population just under 1500, even a few complaints matter. Writer D.J. Waldie has spent several decades chronicling the evolution of Southern California's suburbs. He says Irwindale's size is a large part of why the local government is taking these complaints so seriously.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"City councils, particularly in small communities, have a very small electorate, and they have to worry about the anger or uncertainty of just a few hundred people,\" says Waldie.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Maybe even fewer than that. The South Coast Air Quality Management District told NPR that while 61 complaints about Irwindale's eye-watering air had been received since October, 41 of those complaints came from only 4 addresses. Media manager Sam Atwood said agency personnel investigated most complaints, but could only trace the odor to Huy Fong on three days.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So: Revenue and the cachet of producing one of the world's most recognized condiments, or occasionally irritating the sensitivities of a few residents — what carries more weight?\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78670\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1448px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/ap925069027143-b10c36942935e919dd962565e67e43cc38910ec7.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/ap925069027143-b10c36942935e919dd962565e67e43cc38910ec7.jpg\" alt=\"All heat and spice inside the Huy Fong Foods grinding rooms. Photo: Nick Ut/ASSOCIATED PRESS\" width=\"1448\" height=\"1087\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78670\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">All heat and spice inside the Huy Fong Foods grinding rooms. Photo: Nick Ut/ASSOCIATED PRESS\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"Both have decent arguments, says Jody Armour, law professor at the University of Southern California. \"But that's what makes it a tough case in a lot of ways.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Armour says the Huy Fong clash with its neighbors represents two legitimate, competing interests. On the one hand, Armour points out, you have mostly-Latino neighbors who strive to maintain well-kept blocks and don't want to see — or smell — any slippage in standards.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Communities of color are concerned with being blighted,\" says Armour.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On the other side is David Tran, who came to the United States with nothing as a Vietnamese refugee. His entrepreneurial spark turned a taste of home into 60 million dollars in sales last year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Filmmaker Griffin Hammond produced a documentary called Sriracha with David Tran's cooperation. While filming, Hammond visited the factory during grinding season. He says that while the smell inside the grinding room can be \"pretty unbearable,\" it is barely noticeable from outside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Once I stepped outside the grinding room, I didn't smell it anymore,\" says Hammond. \"They have it nicely cordoned off. And every time I've stepped outside the factory, I've never smelled it.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wednesday night, representatives from the Air Quality Management District read a letter at the city council meeting offering to work with Tran to \"suggest and evaluate\" ventilation designs that would resolve odor issues, so he and Irwindale can coexist peacefully.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, people in other cities, including some on the East Coast, have invited David Tran to move Huy Fong to their region. Filmmaker Griffin Hammond believes that's highly unlikely.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Of course they're not going to move to Philadelphia,\" says Hammond. \"There are no fields of red jalapenos in Pennsylvania.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Although they \u003cem>do\u003c/em> put Sriracha on cheese steaks... \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Maybe That BPA in Your Canned Food Isn't So Bad After All",
"title": "Maybe That BPA in Your Canned Food Isn't So Bad After All",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78655\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 860px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/canned-food-f9f85fdb555a28784a138e12420d221d894cd742.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/canned-food-f9f85fdb555a28784a138e12420d221d894cd742.jpg\" alt=\"Should you fear a chemical inside metal food containers like the ones that hold beans? Government scientists say no. Photo: Chip Somodevilla/Getty Images\" width=\"860\" height=\"645\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78655\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Should you fear a chemical inside metal food containers like the ones that hold beans? Government scientists say no. Photo: Chip Somodevilla/Getty Images\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/2100615/jon-hamilton\" target=\"_blank\">Jon Hamilton\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/02/26/283030949/government-studies-suggest-bpa-exposure-from-food-isn-t-risky\" target=\"_blank\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (2/26/2014)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/02/26/283030949/government-studies-suggest-bpa-exposure-from-food-isn-t-risky\">All Things Considered\u003c/a> [audio src=\"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/atc/2014/02/20140226_atc_bpa.mp3\"] \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Maybe BPA isn't so bad after all.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The plastic additive has been \u003ca href=\"http://www.ewg.org/New-Research-Fuels-Demand-for-BPA-Free-Food-Cans\">vilified\u003c/a> by environmental advocacy groups. But the chemical had no effect on rats fed thousands of times the amount a typical person ingests, government scientists are \u003ca href=\"http://toxsci.oxfordjournals.org/content/early/2014/02/20/toxsci.kfu022.abstract\">reporting\u003c/a> in the journal \u003cem>Toxicological Sciences\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The results \"both support and extend the conclusion from the U.S. Food and Drug Administration that BPA is safe as currently used,\" says \u003ca href=\"http://toxforum.org/participant/daniel-doerge-fda\">Daniel Doerge\u003c/a>, a research chemist with the FDA's \u003ca href=\"http://www.fda.gov/AboutFDA/CentersOffices/OC/OfficeofScientificandMedicalPrograms/NCTR/\">National Center for Toxicological Research\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Scientists agree that in large doses, BPA can act a bit like the hormone estrogen. But there's been a lot of debate about whether the tiny amounts found in people have the potential to cause problems.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>BPA has received a lot of attention because the chemical leaches out of many products, including polycarbonate water bottles and the lining of metal food containers. As a result, \"Nearly everyone in the U.S. will have traces of BPA in their urine,\" Doerge says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So Doerge and his colleagues have been working with scientists from the \u003ca href=\"http://ntp.niehs.nih.gov/\">National Toxicology Program\u003c/a> at the National Institutes of Health to see if there are any effects from this low-level exposure.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In their most recent study, the researchers exposed rats to BPA starting a few days after conception and continuing through sexual maturity. Doses ranged from about 70 times the amount that Americans typically get through their diet to millions of times that amount.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And even when rats got more than 70,000 times what a typical American ingests, there was no change in body weight, reproductive organs or hormone levels, the scientists reported. \"In the low-dose range, there really were no biologically significant changes observed at all,\" Doerge says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was only when exposures were millions of times higher than what people typically get that the scientists saw changes like those caused by the body's own sex hormones.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To double-check the results, the scientists also looked at how BPA was interacting with estrogen receptors — the part of a cell that usually responds to estrogen. And once again it was only the highest doses that produced interactions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The results bolster previous \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2012/03/30/149668771/how-much-bpa-exposure-is-dangerous\">studies\u003c/a> by government researchers showing that people's exposure to BPA is lower than previously estimated and that the human body is really good at inactivating and eliminating BPA. But they are at odds with some smaller and less rigorous academic studies.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some of the academic scientists who did those studies have already \u003ca href=\"http://www.nano-active.com/2014/02/new-low-dose-bpa-research-in.html\">called\u003c/a> the new government study flawed. They \u003ca href=\"http://www.environmentalhealthnews.org/ehs/news/2014/feb/bpa-low-doses\">say\u003c/a> it failed to look at things like brain development. They also say the results were compromised because even the \"control\" animals in the study had trace amounts of BPA in their bodies.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That sort of response is pretty typical in the debate over BPA and other hormonelike chemicals known as endocrine disruptors, says \u003ca href=\"http://www.dropeik.com/\">David Ropeik\u003c/a>, a Harvard instructor and author of the book \u003cem>How Risky is it, Really?\u003c/em> \"The endocrine disruption issue has evoked some of the most visceral and ugly attacks among scientists of any scientific issue recently,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For example, when the \u003ca href=\"http://www.efsa.europa.eu/\">European Food Safety Authority\u003c/a> concluded a few weeks ago that BPA is far less risky than some advocacy groups had suggested, \"the endocrine disruption movement said, 'Oh my God, they're all corrupt. They're all taking corporate money,' \" Ropeik says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lively debate is a natural part of science playing out in the public realm. But this sort of allegation may help undermine trust in regulatory agencies and their scientists, Ropeik says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And it may leave consumers perplexed about what chemicals like BPA are actually doing in the body. In that case, Ropeik recommends referring back to the best science available. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Scientists agree that in large doses, BPA can act a bit like the hormone estrogen. But there's been a lot of debate about whether the tiny amounts found in people have the potential to cause problems.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>BPA has received a lot of attention because the chemical leaches out of many products, including polycarbonate water bottles and the lining of metal food containers. As a result, \"Nearly everyone in the U.S. will have traces of BPA in their urine,\" Doerge says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So Doerge and his colleagues have been working with scientists from the \u003ca href=\"http://ntp.niehs.nih.gov/\">National Toxicology Program\u003c/a> at the National Institutes of Health to see if there are any effects from this low-level exposure.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In their most recent study, the researchers exposed rats to BPA starting a few days after conception and continuing through sexual maturity. Doses ranged from about 70 times the amount that Americans typically get through their diet to millions of times that amount.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And even when rats got more than 70,000 times what a typical American ingests, there was no change in body weight, reproductive organs or hormone levels, the scientists reported. \"In the low-dose range, there really were no biologically significant changes observed at all,\" Doerge says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was only when exposures were millions of times higher than what people typically get that the scientists saw changes like those caused by the body's own sex hormones.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To double-check the results, the scientists also looked at how BPA was interacting with estrogen receptors — the part of a cell that usually responds to estrogen. And once again it was only the highest doses that produced interactions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The results bolster previous \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2012/03/30/149668771/how-much-bpa-exposure-is-dangerous\">studies\u003c/a> by government researchers showing that people's exposure to BPA is lower than previously estimated and that the human body is really good at inactivating and eliminating BPA. But they are at odds with some smaller and less rigorous academic studies.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some of the academic scientists who did those studies have already \u003ca href=\"http://www.nano-active.com/2014/02/new-low-dose-bpa-research-in.html\">called\u003c/a> the new government study flawed. They \u003ca href=\"http://www.environmentalhealthnews.org/ehs/news/2014/feb/bpa-low-doses\">say\u003c/a> it failed to look at things like brain development. They also say the results were compromised because even the \"control\" animals in the study had trace amounts of BPA in their bodies.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That sort of response is pretty typical in the debate over BPA and other hormonelike chemicals known as endocrine disruptors, says \u003ca href=\"http://www.dropeik.com/\">David Ropeik\u003c/a>, a Harvard instructor and author of the book \u003cem>How Risky is it, Really?\u003c/em> \"The endocrine disruption issue has evoked some of the most visceral and ugly attacks among scientists of any scientific issue recently,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For example, when the \u003ca href=\"http://www.efsa.europa.eu/\">European Food Safety Authority\u003c/a> concluded a few weeks ago that BPA is far less risky than some advocacy groups had suggested, \"the endocrine disruption movement said, 'Oh my God, they're all corrupt. They're all taking corporate money,' \" Ropeik says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lively debate is a natural part of science playing out in the public realm. But this sort of allegation may help undermine trust in regulatory agencies and their scientists, Ropeik says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And it may leave consumers perplexed about what chemicals like BPA are actually doing in the body. In that case, Ropeik recommends referring back to the best science available. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Cholent: The Original Slow-Cooked Dish ",
"title": "Cholent: The Original Slow-Cooked Dish ",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78505\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/2305368176_f7780b9537_o-copy_wide-b5de3f6ea2db1c307d7b5041a9dda4479739a56f.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/2305368176_f7780b9537_o-copy_wide-b5de3f6ea2db1c307d7b5041a9dda4479739a56f.jpg\" alt=\"While traditional cholents feature meat and beans cooked for a whole day, some modern versions, like this one, use vegetable protein and a quick braise. Photo: rusvaplauke/Flickr\" width=\"1024\" height=\"575\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78505\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">While traditional cholents feature meat and beans cooked for a whole day, some modern versions, like this one, use vegetable protein and a quick braise. Photo: rusvaplauke/Flickr\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Deena Prichep, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/02/22/280231765/cholent-the-original-slow-cooked-dish\" target=\"_blank\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (2/22/2014)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/02/22/280231765/cholent-the-original-slow-cooked-dish\">Weekend Edition\u003c/a> [audio src=\"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/wesat/2014/02/20140222_wesat_cholent_the_original_slow-cooked_dish_.mp3\"] \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This chilly winter, many of us have warmed ourselves — and our kitchens — with long-cooked meals. Roasts, beans, and stews have been in heavy rotation. But there's a dish called \u003cem>cholent\u003c/em> that isn't just cooked for a few hours — it's cooked for a full day.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Cholent\u003c/em> is rooted in the Jewish Sabbath, which traditionally prohibits work from sundown Friday to sundown Saturday. Under some interpretations, this includes prohibitions on even turning on the oven or stove. So for those who want to have a hot meal (and many feel a religious imperative to do so), the solution is to set up a stewed dish cooking low and slow on Friday, long before the sunset. Over a day of slow cooking, flavors infuse, beans soften, and tough cuts of meat become tender. By the time synagogue services are complete on Saturday afternoon, the rich, flavorful stew is ready to ladle out.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Food historian \u003ca href=\"http://www.gilmarks.com/\">Gil Marks\u003c/a> has traced \u003cem>cholent's\u003c/em> journey over the past thousand years, as it moved through different countries.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The dish comes out of the Middle East, and then it spreads to North Africa, and by the 9th century, it's already found in Spain,\" Marks says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The dish eventually made its way to Eastern Europe — the term \u003cem>cholent\u003c/em> refers to this version, which is most common in America. Eastern European (Ashkenazi) \u003cem>cholent\u003c/em> usually features beans, barley, and some sort of meat. The seasoning will vary. Marks points to Hungarian recipes with paprika, peppered Lithuanian variations, and Polish \u003cem>cholents\u003c/em> flavored with little more than onions and garlic.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The surviving versions from the Middle East through North African vary as well — from Iraqi \u003ca href=\"http://www.tasteofbeirut.com/2011/11/iraqi-jewish-chicken-and-rice-tibeat/\">\u003cem>tbit\u003c/em>\u003c/a> featuring a whole chicken stewed overnight with rice, to turmeric- and cumin-scented \u003ca href=\"http://www.dinnersanddreams.net/2011/01/skhina.html\">Moroccan \u003c/a>stews with long-cooked eggs that become caramel-colored.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And Marks maintains that \u003cem>cholent\u003c/em> didn't just change shape in different countries — it gave rise to new dishes. \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodandwine.com/recipes/toulouse-style-cassoulet\">Cassoulet\u003c/a> is a classic Southern French dish, but Marks thinks it has its roots in \u003cem>cholent\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We do find a number of French sources from the Catholic church forbidding Christians from eating a long-cooked bean dish because it's Jewish,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And \u003ca href=\"http://www.simplyrecipes.com/recipes/slow_cooked_boston_baked_beans/\">Boston baked beans\u003c/a> may seem like a dish born in America, but Marks maintains that it came from a version of \u003cem>cholent\u003c/em> made by Sephardic Jews – those of Spanish, Portuguese, Middle Eastern and North African descent.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Marks says the Puritans learned this version of the dish – called \u003cem>shachna --\u003c/em> from Jews they met during their time in Holland.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Shachna, Marks explains, consists of beans cooked in goose fat with honey. But the Puritans \"don't have goose, so they substitute pork. And they don't have honey, so they substitute either maple syrup or molasses.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Unfortunately, these \u003cem>cholent\u003c/em> theories on Boston baked beans and cassoulet can be difficult to really prove. But \u003cem>cholen\u003c/em>t has changed modern American cooking in ways that are undeniable.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Inventor Irving Naxon came up with over 200 patents, for everything from washing machines to sending data over telephone wires. But one of his most popular ideas was inspired by his mother's stories of making \u003cem>cholent\u003c/em> in Lithuania.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"She would walk it over to the village bakery, where, as the ovens were turned off for the Sabbath, the pot of \u003cem>cholent\u003c/em> would be put in the oven,\" explains Naxon's daughter, Lenore. \"And that slow residual heat over the course of the 24 hours would be enough to cook the \u003cem>cholent\u003c/em>.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After the Saturday religious services, the kids would pick up their pots for a warm Sabbath meal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"So my father heard that story, and thought, hmm, well how can I take the crock and electrify it with some slow, even heat?\" Lenore Naxon remembers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The resulting invention was first called the Naxon Beanery — but you might know it better as the \u003ca href=\"http://www.crock-pot.com/\">Crock-Pot\u003c/a>. It's an idea that went from the Middle East, to a little shtetl in Lithuania, to millions of American homes. And in some of them, it's still being used to make \u003cem>cholent.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>Cholent\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>yields about 6 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This recipe comes from Devora Wilhelm of Portland's \u003ca href=\"http://www.maimonidesjds.org/\">Maimonides Jewish Day School\u003c/a> — it originally came from her mother, who got it from a Hungarian friend. Wilhelm stresses that you should feel free to tailor your cholent to your taste — use waxy or starchy potatoes, chickpeas or kidney or pinto beans. As Wilhelm encourages, \"it doesn't matter, it's cholent — do what you want.\"\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>a few tablespoons canola or olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6 onions, peeled and sliced or diced in large pieces (they'll nearly melt by the end, so don't worry)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup pinto beans, soaked overnight\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup barley, soaked overnight\u003cbr> 5 potatoes, peeled and cut up into large chunks (starchy or waxy)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>generous sprinklings each of paprika, salt, black pepper, turmeric , garlic powder\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>About 1/4 — 3/4 of a chicken (this can be pieces of a whole bird, just legs or thighs, cut-up cutlets, etc.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Heat oil in a medium heat over a large pot (or, if you have a stovetop-friendly slow cooker, you can use that). Saute the onions until soft and translucent. If you've used a separate pot, transfer to a slow cooker a this point. Add the beans, barley, and potatoes, and cover with water up to a few inches from the top of the cooker. Add the seasonings, then taste the water and adjust as needed to have a combination of flavors to your liking. Add the chicken, and add additional water if needed so that it's between 1-2 inches from the top of the crock.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> Cook the cholent on high for three to five hours. Taste and adjust seasonings as needed, then turn to low and cook until the next day. Enjoy warm for lunch (although Wilhelm's children have been known to dip into it for breakfast). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "A stewed dish cooked very low and slow, \u003cem>cholent\u003c/em> has roots in the Jewish Sabbath. This ancient stew directly inspired the Crock-Pot – and maybe the French cassoulet and Boston baked beans as well.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78505\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/2305368176_f7780b9537_o-copy_wide-b5de3f6ea2db1c307d7b5041a9dda4479739a56f.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/2305368176_f7780b9537_o-copy_wide-b5de3f6ea2db1c307d7b5041a9dda4479739a56f.jpg\" alt=\"While traditional cholents feature meat and beans cooked for a whole day, some modern versions, like this one, use vegetable protein and a quick braise. Photo: rusvaplauke/Flickr\" width=\"1024\" height=\"575\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78505\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">While traditional cholents feature meat and beans cooked for a whole day, some modern versions, like this one, use vegetable protein and a quick braise. Photo: rusvaplauke/Flickr\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Deena Prichep, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/02/22/280231765/cholent-the-original-slow-cooked-dish\" target=\"_blank\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (2/22/2014)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/02/22/280231765/cholent-the-original-slow-cooked-dish\">Weekend Edition\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This chilly winter, many of us have warmed ourselves — and our kitchens — with long-cooked meals. Roasts, beans, and stews have been in heavy rotation. But there's a dish called \u003cem>cholent\u003c/em> that isn't just cooked for a few hours — it's cooked for a full day.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Cholent\u003c/em> is rooted in the Jewish Sabbath, which traditionally prohibits work from sundown Friday to sundown Saturday. Under some interpretations, this includes prohibitions on even turning on the oven or stove. So for those who want to have a hot meal (and many feel a religious imperative to do so), the solution is to set up a stewed dish cooking low and slow on Friday, long before the sunset. Over a day of slow cooking, flavors infuse, beans soften, and tough cuts of meat become tender. By the time synagogue services are complete on Saturday afternoon, the rich, flavorful stew is ready to ladle out.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Food historian \u003ca href=\"http://www.gilmarks.com/\">Gil Marks\u003c/a> has traced \u003cem>cholent's\u003c/em> journey over the past thousand years, as it moved through different countries.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The dish comes out of the Middle East, and then it spreads to North Africa, and by the 9th century, it's already found in Spain,\" Marks says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The dish eventually made its way to Eastern Europe — the term \u003cem>cholent\u003c/em> refers to this version, which is most common in America. Eastern European (Ashkenazi) \u003cem>cholent\u003c/em> usually features beans, barley, and some sort of meat. The seasoning will vary. Marks points to Hungarian recipes with paprika, peppered Lithuanian variations, and Polish \u003cem>cholents\u003c/em> flavored with little more than onions and garlic.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The surviving versions from the Middle East through North African vary as well — from Iraqi \u003ca href=\"http://www.tasteofbeirut.com/2011/11/iraqi-jewish-chicken-and-rice-tibeat/\">\u003cem>tbit\u003c/em>\u003c/a> featuring a whole chicken stewed overnight with rice, to turmeric- and cumin-scented \u003ca href=\"http://www.dinnersanddreams.net/2011/01/skhina.html\">Moroccan \u003c/a>stews with long-cooked eggs that become caramel-colored.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And Marks maintains that \u003cem>cholent\u003c/em> didn't just change shape in different countries — it gave rise to new dishes. \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodandwine.com/recipes/toulouse-style-cassoulet\">Cassoulet\u003c/a> is a classic Southern French dish, but Marks thinks it has its roots in \u003cem>cholent\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We do find a number of French sources from the Catholic church forbidding Christians from eating a long-cooked bean dish because it's Jewish,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And \u003ca href=\"http://www.simplyrecipes.com/recipes/slow_cooked_boston_baked_beans/\">Boston baked beans\u003c/a> may seem like a dish born in America, but Marks maintains that it came from a version of \u003cem>cholent\u003c/em> made by Sephardic Jews – those of Spanish, Portuguese, Middle Eastern and North African descent.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Marks says the Puritans learned this version of the dish – called \u003cem>shachna --\u003c/em> from Jews they met during their time in Holland.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Shachna, Marks explains, consists of beans cooked in goose fat with honey. But the Puritans \"don't have goose, so they substitute pork. And they don't have honey, so they substitute either maple syrup or molasses.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Unfortunately, these \u003cem>cholent\u003c/em> theories on Boston baked beans and cassoulet can be difficult to really prove. But \u003cem>cholen\u003c/em>t has changed modern American cooking in ways that are undeniable.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Inventor Irving Naxon came up with over 200 patents, for everything from washing machines to sending data over telephone wires. But one of his most popular ideas was inspired by his mother's stories of making \u003cem>cholent\u003c/em> in Lithuania.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"She would walk it over to the village bakery, where, as the ovens were turned off for the Sabbath, the pot of \u003cem>cholent\u003c/em> would be put in the oven,\" explains Naxon's daughter, Lenore. \"And that slow residual heat over the course of the 24 hours would be enough to cook the \u003cem>cholent\u003c/em>.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After the Saturday religious services, the kids would pick up their pots for a warm Sabbath meal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"So my father heard that story, and thought, hmm, well how can I take the crock and electrify it with some slow, even heat?\" Lenore Naxon remembers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The resulting invention was first called the Naxon Beanery — but you might know it better as the \u003ca href=\"http://www.crock-pot.com/\">Crock-Pot\u003c/a>. It's an idea that went from the Middle East, to a little shtetl in Lithuania, to millions of American homes. And in some of them, it's still being used to make \u003cem>cholent.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>Cholent\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>yields about 6 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This recipe comes from Devora Wilhelm of Portland's \u003ca href=\"http://www.maimonidesjds.org/\">Maimonides Jewish Day School\u003c/a> — it originally came from her mother, who got it from a Hungarian friend. Wilhelm stresses that you should feel free to tailor your cholent to your taste — use waxy or starchy potatoes, chickpeas or kidney or pinto beans. As Wilhelm encourages, \"it doesn't matter, it's cholent — do what you want.\"\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>a few tablespoons canola or olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6 onions, peeled and sliced or diced in large pieces (they'll nearly melt by the end, so don't worry)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup pinto beans, soaked overnight\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup barley, soaked overnight\u003cbr> 5 potatoes, peeled and cut up into large chunks (starchy or waxy)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>generous sprinklings each of paprika, salt, black pepper, turmeric , garlic powder\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>About 1/4 — 3/4 of a chicken (this can be pieces of a whole bird, just legs or thighs, cut-up cutlets, etc.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Heat oil in a medium heat over a large pot (or, if you have a stovetop-friendly slow cooker, you can use that). Saute the onions until soft and translucent. If you've used a separate pot, transfer to a slow cooker a this point. Add the beans, barley, and potatoes, and cover with water up to a few inches from the top of the cooker. Add the seasonings, then taste the water and adjust as needed to have a combination of flavors to your liking. Add the chicken, and add additional water if needed so that it's between 1-2 inches from the top of the crock.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> Cook the cholent on high for three to five hours. Taste and adjust seasonings as needed, then turn to low and cook until the next day. Enjoy warm for lunch (although Wilhelm's children have been known to dip into it for breakfast). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "Trader Joe's Caught in Sticky Lawsuit Over Peanut Butter Pretzels",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78472\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/img_0038-500x3752-acd39363fab6456be7443da211ff59e106d78fa2.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/img_0038-500x3752-acd39363fab6456be7443da211ff59e106d78fa2.jpg\" alt=\"The Trader Joe's Peanut Butter Filled Pretzel: The salty-sweet snack that launched a bitter lawsuit. Courtesy of Tine Haupert\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78472\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Trader Joe's Peanut Butter Filled Pretzel: The salty-sweet snack that launched a bitter lawsuit. Courtesy of Tine Haupert\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Maria Godoy, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/02/21/280284547/trader-joes-caught-in-sticky-lawsuit-over-peanut-butter-pretzels\" target=\"_blank\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (2/21/2014)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/02/21/280284547/trader-joes-caught-in-sticky-lawsuit-over-peanut-butter-pretzels\">Morning Edition\u003c/a> [audio src=\"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2014/02/20140221_me_trader_joes_caught_in_sticky_lawsuit_over_peanut_butter_pretzels.mp3\"] \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Among the many snacks you can find in the aisles of Trader Joe's is an icon of sweet and salty goodness: the peanut butter pretzel. It's a combination so tasty, famed food writer Ruth Reichl once raved, \"You haven't lived until you've tried the two together.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the beloved treats aren't just treasures for the palate — they're a pretty lucrative business worth millions of dollars. And now, Trader Joe's is being sued for allegedly cornering the market on the snack.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The plaintiff is Maxim Marketing, a Southern California company that claims to have invented the peanut butter pretzel in the early 1980s. And for more than 25 years, Maxim claims, it supplied the grocery chain with the snack, which is sold under the private Trader Joe's label. But Maxim says the retailer switched suppliers to packaged food giant ConAgra Foods, unfairly cutting it out of the business it pioneered. So Maxim is suing both companies, explains journalist Alfred Lee, who \u003ca href=\"http://www.labusinessjournal.com/news/2014/feb/17/pretzel-supplier-alleges-twisted-tale/?page=1&\">wrote about the lawsuit\u003c/a> for the \u003cem>Los Angeles Business Journal.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"They're suing for alleged breach of contract and also alleging the existence of a peanut butter pretzel monopoly,\" Lee tells \u003cem>Morning Edition\u003c/em> host David Greene. \"I realize that sounds kind of funny, but this isn't some bite-sized niche, if you will. It's a market worth tens of millions of dollars.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Maxim claims it sold Trader Joe's $9 million worth of peanut butter pretzels each year, and the grocer, in turn, sold the snacks at a gross markup of roughly 35 percent.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Maxim is a middle man that doesn't own its own factories,\" Lee explains, \"and ConAgra has bought up most of the peanut butter pretzel manufacturing capability in the United States. And Maxim is saying that this deal prevents them from essentially doing business.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Trader Joe's, which is privately held, is famously tight-lipped. It does not disclose its suppliers, and it has not commented publicly on the lawsuit nor responded to it in court.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, Trader Joe's has the right to use any supplier it wants. And one way the company has traditionally cut costs is by bypassing the middle man and going straight to the manufacturer when it comes to creating its own private-label foods. So, really, it's up to the court to decide whether any contract was indeed breached, and whether the deal between Trader Joe's and ConAgra really does crumble competition in the pretzel marketplace.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of the lawsuit's most surprising revelations? Turns out, the peanut butter pretzel is a marvel of food manufacturing. The technology to make a hard pretzel shell stuffed with peanut butter didn't even exist until the 1980s, Lee says. It's a process called co-extrusion — basically, an outer tube pumps out pretzel dough, while an inner tube pumps out peanut butter filling onto a conveyor belt. The whole thing is then sliced up and baked in a giant 100-foot oven.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It turns out that getting the mix right and the proportions right was pretty tricky,\" Lee says. \"If there is too much water in the pretzel or the shell is too thin, the things will explode. And imagine having to clean a 100-foot oven full of peanut butter.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Creating the salty-sweet snack was a bit of a technological marvel. And the company that claims to have invented it says Trader Joe's has unfairly cut it out of the pretzel marketplace.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78472\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/img_0038-500x3752-acd39363fab6456be7443da211ff59e106d78fa2.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/img_0038-500x3752-acd39363fab6456be7443da211ff59e106d78fa2.jpg\" alt=\"The Trader Joe's Peanut Butter Filled Pretzel: The salty-sweet snack that launched a bitter lawsuit. Courtesy of Tine Haupert\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78472\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Trader Joe's Peanut Butter Filled Pretzel: The salty-sweet snack that launched a bitter lawsuit. Courtesy of Tine Haupert\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Maria Godoy, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/02/21/280284547/trader-joes-caught-in-sticky-lawsuit-over-peanut-butter-pretzels\" target=\"_blank\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (2/21/2014)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/02/21/280284547/trader-joes-caught-in-sticky-lawsuit-over-peanut-butter-pretzels\">Morning Edition\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Among the many snacks you can find in the aisles of Trader Joe's is an icon of sweet and salty goodness: the peanut butter pretzel. It's a combination so tasty, famed food writer Ruth Reichl once raved, \"You haven't lived until you've tried the two together.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the beloved treats aren't just treasures for the palate — they're a pretty lucrative business worth millions of dollars. And now, Trader Joe's is being sued for allegedly cornering the market on the snack.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The plaintiff is Maxim Marketing, a Southern California company that claims to have invented the peanut butter pretzel in the early 1980s. And for more than 25 years, Maxim claims, it supplied the grocery chain with the snack, which is sold under the private Trader Joe's label. But Maxim says the retailer switched suppliers to packaged food giant ConAgra Foods, unfairly cutting it out of the business it pioneered. So Maxim is suing both companies, explains journalist Alfred Lee, who \u003ca href=\"http://www.labusinessjournal.com/news/2014/feb/17/pretzel-supplier-alleges-twisted-tale/?page=1&\">wrote about the lawsuit\u003c/a> for the \u003cem>Los Angeles Business Journal.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"They're suing for alleged breach of contract and also alleging the existence of a peanut butter pretzel monopoly,\" Lee tells \u003cem>Morning Edition\u003c/em> host David Greene. \"I realize that sounds kind of funny, but this isn't some bite-sized niche, if you will. It's a market worth tens of millions of dollars.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Maxim claims it sold Trader Joe's $9 million worth of peanut butter pretzels each year, and the grocer, in turn, sold the snacks at a gross markup of roughly 35 percent.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Maxim is a middle man that doesn't own its own factories,\" Lee explains, \"and ConAgra has bought up most of the peanut butter pretzel manufacturing capability in the United States. And Maxim is saying that this deal prevents them from essentially doing business.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Trader Joe's, which is privately held, is famously tight-lipped. It does not disclose its suppliers, and it has not commented publicly on the lawsuit nor responded to it in court.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, Trader Joe's has the right to use any supplier it wants. And one way the company has traditionally cut costs is by bypassing the middle man and going straight to the manufacturer when it comes to creating its own private-label foods. So, really, it's up to the court to decide whether any contract was indeed breached, and whether the deal between Trader Joe's and ConAgra really does crumble competition in the pretzel marketplace.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of the lawsuit's most surprising revelations? Turns out, the peanut butter pretzel is a marvel of food manufacturing. The technology to make a hard pretzel shell stuffed with peanut butter didn't even exist until the 1980s, Lee says. It's a process called co-extrusion — basically, an outer tube pumps out pretzel dough, while an inner tube pumps out peanut butter filling onto a conveyor belt. The whole thing is then sliced up and baked in a giant 100-foot oven.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It turns out that getting the mix right and the proportions right was pretty tricky,\" Lee says. \"If there is too much water in the pretzel or the shell is too thin, the things will explode. And imagine having to clean a 100-foot oven full of peanut butter.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "The System Supplying America's Chickens Pits Farmer vs. Farmer",
"title": "The System Supplying America's Chickens Pits Farmer vs. Farmer",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78429\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1672px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/img_8673_new2_wide-b3f908a99e476f5a6323f8fcf24d2b7b6f505cc7.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/img_8673_new2_wide-b3f908a99e476f5a6323f8fcf24d2b7b6f505cc7.jpg\" alt=\"Benny Bunting, a farm advocate for Rural Advancement Foundation International-USA, in front of one of his old chicken houses in Oak City, N.C. Photo: Dan Charles/NPR\" width=\"1672\" height=\"941\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78429\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Benny Bunting, a farm advocate for Rural Advancement Foundation International-USA, in front of one of his old chicken houses in Oak City, N.C. Photo: Dan Charles/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/143160021/daniel-charles\" target=\"_blank\">Dan Charles\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/02/20/279040721/the-system-that-supplies-our-chickens-pits-farmer-against-farmer\" target=\"_blank\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (2/20/2014)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/02/20/279040721/the-system-that-supplies-our-chickens-pits-farmer-against-farmer\">Morning Edition\u003c/a> [audio src=\"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2014/02/20140220_me_the_system_that_supplies_our_chickens_pits_farmer_against_farmer.mp3\"] \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After reading Christopher Leonard's \u003cem>The Meat Racket\u003c/em>, a \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2014/02/19/is-tyson-foods-chicken-empire-a-meat-racket/\">broadside\u003c/a> against the contract-farming system, I decided to take a closer look at it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I drove to North Carolina and ended up in the kind of place that supplies practically all of our chickens: a metal-sided, 500-foot-long structure near the town of Fairmont.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the dim light, I see 30,000 little chicks scuttling around on the floor. \"They're 12 days old,\" explains Craig Watts, who's growing these birds for Perdue Farms.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Perdue owns the chickens. It also supplies the feed that they eat. About a month from now, when the birds have grown to about 4.5 pounds, the company will send a truck to carry them away, and Watts will get paid. But he never knows how big his check will be.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's like that test you took in school — you kind of want to know how you did, but you really don't? It's that kind of feeling,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The uncertainty is part of a peculiar payment system that the chicken industry uses. It's often called a tournament. Critics say it's more like a lottery.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78430\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1448px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/img_8648_new-7d5fe3cca2adb6ca16b0615fc77b511fd162bbc6.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/img_8648_new-7d5fe3cca2adb6ca16b0615fc77b511fd162bbc6.jpg\" alt=\"Craig Watts produces chickens for Perdue on his farm in Fairmont, N.C. Photo: Dan Charles/NPR\" width=\"1448\" height=\"1087\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78430\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Craig Watts produces chickens for Perdue on his farm in Fairmont, N.C. Photo: Dan Charles/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The companies set an average price that they will pay for raising the chickens — in this case, 5 cents per pound. But some farmers will get more than that, and others less, depending on a formula that measures their performance. It's mainly based on feed efficiency: how much weight the chickens gained, compared to how much feed the company supplied.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The farmers are ranked, like teams competing in a sports league. The top-ranked farmer can get paid up to 50 percent more, per pound of chicken delivered, than the one at the bottom. \"The pie doesn't change,\" Watts says. It's just divided into bigger and smaller slices.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The entire chicken industry uses this system, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/profile/tom-vukina/\">Tom Vukina\u003c/a>, an economist at North Carolina State University who's studied it, says that from an economic point of view, it's beautiful.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It is really brilliant,\" says Vukina. It solves problems that academic economists have examined with high-powered theory. Problems such as how companies can make sure workers do a good job when they can't be monitored, or how to convince independent contractors to invest in new equipment.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"This thing has phenomenal, theoretically correct design features that [the industry] came up with knowing absolutely nothing about contract theory,\" Vukina says, chuckling. \"It's actually remarkable! Totally mind-boggling!\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He says the result is efficient production, and society as a whole is better off.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yet some people involved in contract farming say it doesn't benefit everyone.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's at the expense of the farmer, because the farmer's not the one making money. The company is making money,\" says \u003ca href=\"http://rafiusa.org/benny-bunting/\">Benny Bunting\u003c/a>, a former chicken farmer who now works for \u003ca href=\"http://rafiusa.org/\">Rural Advancement Foundation International-USA\u003c/a>, an organization devoted to farmers' rights. His job is to provide advice to farmers who find themselves in financial trouble.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We're sitting in Bunting's home in the small town of Oak City, N.C. Across from us is a wall of shelves filled with thick binders. Each binder bears the name of a farm family that ended up deeply in debt.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Every one of them is a person's life,\" says Bunting. \"The thing about my job is, most times, I meet people at the lowest time in their life, when they're in financial problems. That's what this represents.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Many of those farmers raised chickens. Bunting says they discovered, too late, that raising chickens is a raw deal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To explain, he pulls out a brochure that \u003ca href=\"http://www.sandersonfarms.com/\">Sanderson Farms\u003c/a>, another poultry company, passed out while recruiting new farmers a few years ago. The cover shows brand-new chicken houses, gleaming and clean.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Turn the page, and the document shows how much a farmer can earn, in one year, from four big chicken houses: $222,856.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Imagine you're a farmer, Bunting says. Here's what you're thinking: \"I'm going to make that, but I'm going to get a bonus on top of that. Because I'm going to be the \u003cem>top\u003c/em> grower.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"That's the perception,\" Bunting continues. \"Everyone thinks that they're going to be in the top percentile.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The brochure does lay out costs. There's one huge one: Building the chicken houses will cost a million dollars, which means taking on a mountain of debt.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But after making payments on that loan, the brochure estimates a farmer can clear $60,000 in profits. \"That looks really good,\" Bunting says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then you get into the business, he says, and you discover that there are expenses the brochure didn't really mention, such as repairs, a tractor and additional labor. That can eat up your profit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On top of that, there's the uncertainty created by the tournament. This is not Lake Wobegon. No matter how hard the farmers work, half of them will be below average and make less money than the numbers in the brochure. According to Bunting, it means they won't be making enough to service that debt.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The really unfair thing, according to Craig Watts, is that whether he ends up at the top or the bottom of the rankings is out of his control. It seems to depend mainly on which birds the company sent him.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I've been a good grower, I've been a bad grower, and I've been an every-point-in-between grower, and I'm the same guy doing the same thing,\" he says. \"I'm the only thing that's constant on that farm.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But once you owe all that money, he says, you're stuck, because those loans are secured by the land on your farm, or by your home. \"We've got ties to the land, and they exploit that, because we're going to do whatever it takes not to lose our farm,\" Watts says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There's one more aspect of contract farming, beyond the simple arithmetic of income and expenses, that makes some farmers angry. It's the feeling that this is not a deal between equals.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We've got to bite our tongue and do what they say, or face the consequences of being bankrupt,\" says Benny Bunting.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The chicken companies, for their part, \u003ca href=\"http://www.nationalchickencouncil.org/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/The-Meat-Racket-Myths-and-Facts.pdf\">say\u003c/a> the contracts they offer farmers are, in fact, fair. William Roenigk, a senior vice president at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.nationalchickencouncil.org/\">Chicken Council\u003c/a>, which represents the poultry industry, points out that contract farming has been around for 50 years. Farmers know exactly how it works, he says. And new farmers still want to sign up.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"If this was not a good contractual relationship, overall, why would farmers who are not in the chicken business want to get into the chicken business?\" he asks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Charles Postles has raised chickens for 30 years in Milford, Del. He says it has been a good choice, and he has no problem with the tournament payment system. \"It encourages producers to be efficient and to be vigilant in their management,\" he says. \"I think that's a fair system.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's hard to know how many contract farmers agree with Postles. In one survey of poultry farmers in Delaware, three-quarters of those who responded were satisfied with their arrangement. But more than half of them also said that, in their opinion, the companies will retaliate if a farmer raises concerns. Many farmers didn't respond to the \u003ca href=\"http://udel.edu/~ilvento/SUMMARY.PDF\">survey\u003c/a>, which was commissioned by the chicken industry and conducted by the University of Delaware.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Complaints have been common enough that several years ago, the Obama administration proposed new rules to address them. The rules were supposed to give contract farmers more predictable minimum pay, and a better chance of getting compensation if a company treated them unfairly.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The chicken industry lobbied hard against those rules, and blocked many of them from going into effect.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In fact, contract farming is still expanding. It's now the way that most pork is produced, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Most of the nation's chicken meat is grown by contract farmers who get ranked against each other when it's time to get paid. Critics say someone always ends up losing — and, too often, deep in debt.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78429\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1672px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/img_8673_new2_wide-b3f908a99e476f5a6323f8fcf24d2b7b6f505cc7.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/img_8673_new2_wide-b3f908a99e476f5a6323f8fcf24d2b7b6f505cc7.jpg\" alt=\"Benny Bunting, a farm advocate for Rural Advancement Foundation International-USA, in front of one of his old chicken houses in Oak City, N.C. Photo: Dan Charles/NPR\" width=\"1672\" height=\"941\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78429\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Benny Bunting, a farm advocate for Rural Advancement Foundation International-USA, in front of one of his old chicken houses in Oak City, N.C. Photo: Dan Charles/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/143160021/daniel-charles\" target=\"_blank\">Dan Charles\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/02/20/279040721/the-system-that-supplies-our-chickens-pits-farmer-against-farmer\" target=\"_blank\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (2/20/2014)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/02/20/279040721/the-system-that-supplies-our-chickens-pits-farmer-against-farmer\">Morning Edition\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After reading Christopher Leonard's \u003cem>The Meat Racket\u003c/em>, a \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2014/02/19/is-tyson-foods-chicken-empire-a-meat-racket/\">broadside\u003c/a> against the contract-farming system, I decided to take a closer look at it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I drove to North Carolina and ended up in the kind of place that supplies practically all of our chickens: a metal-sided, 500-foot-long structure near the town of Fairmont.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the dim light, I see 30,000 little chicks scuttling around on the floor. \"They're 12 days old,\" explains Craig Watts, who's growing these birds for Perdue Farms.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Perdue owns the chickens. It also supplies the feed that they eat. About a month from now, when the birds have grown to about 4.5 pounds, the company will send a truck to carry them away, and Watts will get paid. But he never knows how big his check will be.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's like that test you took in school — you kind of want to know how you did, but you really don't? It's that kind of feeling,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The uncertainty is part of a peculiar payment system that the chicken industry uses. It's often called a tournament. Critics say it's more like a lottery.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78430\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1448px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/img_8648_new-7d5fe3cca2adb6ca16b0615fc77b511fd162bbc6.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/img_8648_new-7d5fe3cca2adb6ca16b0615fc77b511fd162bbc6.jpg\" alt=\"Craig Watts produces chickens for Perdue on his farm in Fairmont, N.C. Photo: Dan Charles/NPR\" width=\"1448\" height=\"1087\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78430\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Craig Watts produces chickens for Perdue on his farm in Fairmont, N.C. Photo: Dan Charles/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The companies set an average price that they will pay for raising the chickens — in this case, 5 cents per pound. But some farmers will get more than that, and others less, depending on a formula that measures their performance. It's mainly based on feed efficiency: how much weight the chickens gained, compared to how much feed the company supplied.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The farmers are ranked, like teams competing in a sports league. The top-ranked farmer can get paid up to 50 percent more, per pound of chicken delivered, than the one at the bottom. \"The pie doesn't change,\" Watts says. It's just divided into bigger and smaller slices.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The entire chicken industry uses this system, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/profile/tom-vukina/\">Tom Vukina\u003c/a>, an economist at North Carolina State University who's studied it, says that from an economic point of view, it's beautiful.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It is really brilliant,\" says Vukina. It solves problems that academic economists have examined with high-powered theory. Problems such as how companies can make sure workers do a good job when they can't be monitored, or how to convince independent contractors to invest in new equipment.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"This thing has phenomenal, theoretically correct design features that [the industry] came up with knowing absolutely nothing about contract theory,\" Vukina says, chuckling. \"It's actually remarkable! Totally mind-boggling!\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He says the result is efficient production, and society as a whole is better off.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yet some people involved in contract farming say it doesn't benefit everyone.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's at the expense of the farmer, because the farmer's not the one making money. The company is making money,\" says \u003ca href=\"http://rafiusa.org/benny-bunting/\">Benny Bunting\u003c/a>, a former chicken farmer who now works for \u003ca href=\"http://rafiusa.org/\">Rural Advancement Foundation International-USA\u003c/a>, an organization devoted to farmers' rights. His job is to provide advice to farmers who find themselves in financial trouble.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We're sitting in Bunting's home in the small town of Oak City, N.C. Across from us is a wall of shelves filled with thick binders. Each binder bears the name of a farm family that ended up deeply in debt.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Every one of them is a person's life,\" says Bunting. \"The thing about my job is, most times, I meet people at the lowest time in their life, when they're in financial problems. That's what this represents.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Many of those farmers raised chickens. Bunting says they discovered, too late, that raising chickens is a raw deal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To explain, he pulls out a brochure that \u003ca href=\"http://www.sandersonfarms.com/\">Sanderson Farms\u003c/a>, another poultry company, passed out while recruiting new farmers a few years ago. The cover shows brand-new chicken houses, gleaming and clean.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Turn the page, and the document shows how much a farmer can earn, in one year, from four big chicken houses: $222,856.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Imagine you're a farmer, Bunting says. Here's what you're thinking: \"I'm going to make that, but I'm going to get a bonus on top of that. Because I'm going to be the \u003cem>top\u003c/em> grower.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"That's the perception,\" Bunting continues. \"Everyone thinks that they're going to be in the top percentile.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The brochure does lay out costs. There's one huge one: Building the chicken houses will cost a million dollars, which means taking on a mountain of debt.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But after making payments on that loan, the brochure estimates a farmer can clear $60,000 in profits. \"That looks really good,\" Bunting says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then you get into the business, he says, and you discover that there are expenses the brochure didn't really mention, such as repairs, a tractor and additional labor. That can eat up your profit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On top of that, there's the uncertainty created by the tournament. This is not Lake Wobegon. No matter how hard the farmers work, half of them will be below average and make less money than the numbers in the brochure. According to Bunting, it means they won't be making enough to service that debt.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The really unfair thing, according to Craig Watts, is that whether he ends up at the top or the bottom of the rankings is out of his control. It seems to depend mainly on which birds the company sent him.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I've been a good grower, I've been a bad grower, and I've been an every-point-in-between grower, and I'm the same guy doing the same thing,\" he says. \"I'm the only thing that's constant on that farm.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But once you owe all that money, he says, you're stuck, because those loans are secured by the land on your farm, or by your home. \"We've got ties to the land, and they exploit that, because we're going to do whatever it takes not to lose our farm,\" Watts says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There's one more aspect of contract farming, beyond the simple arithmetic of income and expenses, that makes some farmers angry. It's the feeling that this is not a deal between equals.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We've got to bite our tongue and do what they say, or face the consequences of being bankrupt,\" says Benny Bunting.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The chicken companies, for their part, \u003ca href=\"http://www.nationalchickencouncil.org/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/The-Meat-Racket-Myths-and-Facts.pdf\">say\u003c/a> the contracts they offer farmers are, in fact, fair. William Roenigk, a senior vice president at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.nationalchickencouncil.org/\">Chicken Council\u003c/a>, which represents the poultry industry, points out that contract farming has been around for 50 years. Farmers know exactly how it works, he says. And new farmers still want to sign up.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"If this was not a good contractual relationship, overall, why would farmers who are not in the chicken business want to get into the chicken business?\" he asks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Charles Postles has raised chickens for 30 years in Milford, Del. He says it has been a good choice, and he has no problem with the tournament payment system. \"It encourages producers to be efficient and to be vigilant in their management,\" he says. \"I think that's a fair system.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's hard to know how many contract farmers agree with Postles. In one survey of poultry farmers in Delaware, three-quarters of those who responded were satisfied with their arrangement. But more than half of them also said that, in their opinion, the companies will retaliate if a farmer raises concerns. Many farmers didn't respond to the \u003ca href=\"http://udel.edu/~ilvento/SUMMARY.PDF\">survey\u003c/a>, which was commissioned by the chicken industry and conducted by the University of Delaware.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Complaints have been common enough that several years ago, the Obama administration proposed new rules to address them. The rules were supposed to give contract farmers more predictable minimum pay, and a better chance of getting compensation if a company treated them unfairly.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The chicken industry lobbied hard against those rules, and blocked many of them from going into effect.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In fact, contract farming is still expanding. It's now the way that most pork is produced, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "Is Tyson Foods' Chicken Empire a 'Meat Racket'?",
"title": "Is Tyson Foods' Chicken Empire a 'Meat Racket'?",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78388\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1672px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/ap03061904596-copy_wide-04e046a71a76521f2db3a98d6057ea0534e9dc32.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/ap03061904596-copy_wide-04e046a71a76521f2db3a98d6057ea0534e9dc32.jpg\" alt=\"Chickens gather around a feeder in a Tyson Foods poultry house in Washington County, Ark. Photo: April L. Brown/AP\" width=\"1672\" height=\"940\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78388\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chickens gather around a feeder in a Tyson Foods poultry house in Washington County, Ark. Photo: April L. Brown/AP\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/143160021/daniel-charles\" target=\"_blank\">Dan Charles\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/02/19/276981085/is-tyson-foods-chicken-empire-a-meat-racket\" target=\"_blank\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (2/19/2014)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/02/19/276981085/is-tyson-foods-chicken-empire-a-meat-racket\">Morning Edition\u003c/a> [audio src=\"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2014/02/20140219_me_is_tyson_foods_chicken_empire_a_meat_racket.mp3\"] \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Christopher Leonard's new exposé on the chicken industry, \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/The-Meat-Racket-Takeover-Americas/dp/1451645813/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1392403784&sr=8-1&keywords=meat+racket\">The Meat Racket\u003c/a>\u003c/em>, doesn't devote much ink to the physical object on our plate, the chicken meat itself.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Instead, Leonard focuses on the economic machinery that delivers the meat to us, or, as he puts it, \"the hidden power structure that has quietly reshaped U.S. rural economies while gaining unprecedented control over the nation's meat supply.\" His book aims a spotlight at Tyson Foods, which helped create the modern chicken industry. And it recounts the stories of people, mostly farmers, whom Leonard contends Tyson has chewed up and cast aside since its incorporation in 1947.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Leonard, now a fellow at the \u003ca href=\"http://newamerica.net/\">New America Foundation\u003c/a>, once worked for the \u003cem>Arkansas Democrat-Gazette\u003c/em>, covering business news in Tyson's home territory. And there's a note of admiration in Leonard's description of Don Tyson, the man who drove the company's rise to global superpower of meat after taking over the company when his father, John, died in 1967.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78392\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 252px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/dontyson_custom-e4e436a506d04f6a9af7b42019bbcb4bdef0520a-s3-c85.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/dontyson_custom-e4e436a506d04f6a9af7b42019bbcb4bdef0520a-s3-c85-252x290.jpg\" alt=\"Don Tyson took over as president of Tyson Foods in 1967 and ran the company until his death in 2011. Photo: Hudson Photography Inc./Wikimedia Commons\" width=\"252\" height=\"290\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-78392\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Don Tyson took over as president of Tyson Foods in 1967 and ran the company until his death in 2011. Photo: Hudson Photography Inc./Wikimedia Commons\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"I think he was a genius,\" Leonard tells NPR's Renée Montagne on \u003cem>Morning Edition\u003c/em>. \"Don Tyson had the ability to see the world as it did not yet exist. He saw that chicken would soon replace beef or pork as the most popular meat in the United States.\" (For more, listen to the entire interview.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Leonard has no admiration at all, though, for the system of chicken production that Tyson built, which \"keeps farmers in a state of indebted servitude, living like modern-day sharecroppers on the ragged edge of bankruptcy.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Leonard's criticisms are not new. Activist groups devoted to farmers' rights, such as \u003ca href=\"http://rafiusa.org/\">Rural Advancement Foundation International\u003c/a> and the \u003ca href=\"http://www.iatp.org/\">Institute for Agricultural and Trade Policy\u003c/a>, have been fighting against concentration in the poultry and meat-packing industries for many years. In the early days of the Obama administration, the Department of Agriculture and the Justice Department held public \u003ca href=\"http://www.justice.gov/atr/public/workshops/ag2010/\">hearings\u003c/a> on alleged abuses by companies that dominate the meat business. Just a few weeks ago, the Pew Charitable Trusts released its own \u003ca href=\"http://www.pewenvironment.org/news-room/reports/the-business-of-broilers-hidden-costs-of-putting-a-chicken-on-every-grill-85899528152\">critique\u003c/a> of the broiler industry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Leonard's book, however, is probably the most detailed account of the inner workings of Tyson, as well as the relationship between poultry companies and the not-so-independent farmers who actually raise the birds. That relationship is often called \"contract farming.\" It was invented by the poultry industry, but is now gaining ground in the pork and beef industries, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In this system, the farmer owns the chicken houses, but the poultry companies are very much in control. They deliver the chicks on their own schedule — in fact, they aren't required to deliver any flocks at all. They supply the feed, and the feed additives.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78393\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 624px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/gr-tyson-chicken-tons-624.png\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/gr-tyson-chicken-tons-624.png\" alt=\"Source: U.S. Department of Agriculture Foreign Agricultural Service Credit: NPR\" width=\"624\" height=\"354\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78393\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Source: U.S. Department of Agriculture Foreign Agricultural Service\u003cbr>Credit: NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Leonard depicts that relationship as something like a con game run by the companies for their own benefit. \"Almost invariably, from everything I've seen, the farmer loses,\" he told \u003cem>Morning Edition\u003c/em>. \"The farmer takes the brunt of the volatility; the farmer swallows the worst of the losses when there is a problem with their chickens.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Leonard tells the stories of farmers who've fallen into bankruptcy, and implies that this outcome is almost inevitable. The National Chicken Council, an industry lobbying group, \u003ca href=\"http://www.nationalchickencouncil.org/new-book-misses-mark-nothing-educate-consumers-realities-modern-poultry-production/\">responded\u003c/a> with two pages of quotes from poultry producers who stoutly defend the contract growing systems. It also pointed out that when grain prices spiked a few years ago, chicken companies ate huge losses, while contract farmers, who didn't have to pay directly for the feed, were protected.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tyson, in a separate statement, said \"we depend on [contract farmers] and want them to succeed. Some of them have been raising livestock and poultry for us for decades, and in some cases, for multiple generations.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78394\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 624px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/gr-tyson-revenue-624.png\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/gr-tyson-revenue-624.png\" alt=\"Source: SEC filings Credit: NPR\" width=\"624\" height=\"354\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78394\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Source: SEC filings\u003cbr>Credit: NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>The Meat Racket\u003c/em>'s description of the problems with contract farming is more convincing than its ideas for how to build a better, more equitable alternative. Leonard, for instance, endorses the modest reforms put in place in Iowa, which guarantee farmers certain rights, such as the right to share contract information. But those reforms don't touch the basic shape of the system.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>His more ambitious hope is for a revival of free markets in meat production instead of vertically integrated supply chains run by big companies. Yet it's unclear whether this would really improve things. Competition among farmers is a brutal reality of commodity production; as farmers push to become more efficient, it drives down prices and pushes the weakest out of the business. In poultry, the companies run that competition; in many other commodities, free markets do the job.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Few American consumers seem to care very much about that. After all, if competition keeps prices low, why should they complain?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Leonard thinks the situation has changed, and that poultry superpowers now are using their power to raise chicken prices, squeezing consumers as well as farmers. Yet the industry's ability to protect its profits still seems limited. Five years ago, one of the biggest poultry companies in the country, Pilgrim's Pride, actually went bankrupt when feed prices soared.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pilgrim's Pride was snapped up by JBS, a Brazil-based multinational. It's now the biggest producer of meat in the world, ahead of Tyson. Increasing concentration in the meat industry, once fueled by Don Tyson's ambition, continues even without him.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Tyson Responds\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Read Tyson Foods' emailed statement to NPR responding to Christopher Leonard's observations.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Contrary to critics like Mr. Leonard, we provide opportunities for farmers to prosper and consumers to buy safe, affordable food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Tyson Foods is \u003ca href=\"http://www.tysonfoods.com/Our-Story/Farmers.aspx\" target=\"_blank\">one of the leading supporters of American farmers\u003c/a>, paying more than $15 billion last year alone to the thousands of independent farmers who supply us. We depend on them and want them to succeed. Some of them have been raising livestock and poultry for us for decades, and in some cases, for multiple generations. They own and operate their own farms and either sell their livestock to us or raise our chickens for us.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Our business is structured to meet the needs of our customers and ultimately consumers. We sell our products to retail and food service companies; however, we don't set consumer prices. What we ask for our products is determined by supply and demand. No one company is big enough to control the market, especially in today's global food environment. U.S. consumers still spend a smaller percentage of their total income on food than consumers in most other countries.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Meat production is already one of the most heavily-regulated industries in the country with laws covering such important areas as food and worker safety, livestock price reporting and product labeling as well as rules governing our business relationship with the farmers. But for us, it's not just about regulations, it's about people trying to do the right thing in every aspect of what we do, including how we work with farmers.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "A new book argues that Tyson's system treats farmers like \"modern-day sharecroppers.\" Author Christopher Leonard looks at Tyson's inner workings and the not-so-independent farmers who raise the birds.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78388\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1672px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/ap03061904596-copy_wide-04e046a71a76521f2db3a98d6057ea0534e9dc32.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/ap03061904596-copy_wide-04e046a71a76521f2db3a98d6057ea0534e9dc32.jpg\" alt=\"Chickens gather around a feeder in a Tyson Foods poultry house in Washington County, Ark. Photo: April L. Brown/AP\" width=\"1672\" height=\"940\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78388\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chickens gather around a feeder in a Tyson Foods poultry house in Washington County, Ark. Photo: April L. Brown/AP\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/143160021/daniel-charles\" target=\"_blank\">Dan Charles\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/02/19/276981085/is-tyson-foods-chicken-empire-a-meat-racket\" target=\"_blank\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (2/19/2014)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/02/19/276981085/is-tyson-foods-chicken-empire-a-meat-racket\">Morning Edition\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Christopher Leonard's new exposé on the chicken industry, \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/The-Meat-Racket-Takeover-Americas/dp/1451645813/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1392403784&sr=8-1&keywords=meat+racket\">The Meat Racket\u003c/a>\u003c/em>, doesn't devote much ink to the physical object on our plate, the chicken meat itself.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Instead, Leonard focuses on the economic machinery that delivers the meat to us, or, as he puts it, \"the hidden power structure that has quietly reshaped U.S. rural economies while gaining unprecedented control over the nation's meat supply.\" His book aims a spotlight at Tyson Foods, which helped create the modern chicken industry. And it recounts the stories of people, mostly farmers, whom Leonard contends Tyson has chewed up and cast aside since its incorporation in 1947.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Leonard, now a fellow at the \u003ca href=\"http://newamerica.net/\">New America Foundation\u003c/a>, once worked for the \u003cem>Arkansas Democrat-Gazette\u003c/em>, covering business news in Tyson's home territory. And there's a note of admiration in Leonard's description of Don Tyson, the man who drove the company's rise to global superpower of meat after taking over the company when his father, John, died in 1967.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78392\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 252px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/dontyson_custom-e4e436a506d04f6a9af7b42019bbcb4bdef0520a-s3-c85.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/dontyson_custom-e4e436a506d04f6a9af7b42019bbcb4bdef0520a-s3-c85-252x290.jpg\" alt=\"Don Tyson took over as president of Tyson Foods in 1967 and ran the company until his death in 2011. Photo: Hudson Photography Inc./Wikimedia Commons\" width=\"252\" height=\"290\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-78392\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Don Tyson took over as president of Tyson Foods in 1967 and ran the company until his death in 2011. Photo: Hudson Photography Inc./Wikimedia Commons\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"I think he was a genius,\" Leonard tells NPR's Renée Montagne on \u003cem>Morning Edition\u003c/em>. \"Don Tyson had the ability to see the world as it did not yet exist. He saw that chicken would soon replace beef or pork as the most popular meat in the United States.\" (For more, listen to the entire interview.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Leonard has no admiration at all, though, for the system of chicken production that Tyson built, which \"keeps farmers in a state of indebted servitude, living like modern-day sharecroppers on the ragged edge of bankruptcy.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Leonard's criticisms are not new. Activist groups devoted to farmers' rights, such as \u003ca href=\"http://rafiusa.org/\">Rural Advancement Foundation International\u003c/a> and the \u003ca href=\"http://www.iatp.org/\">Institute for Agricultural and Trade Policy\u003c/a>, have been fighting against concentration in the poultry and meat-packing industries for many years. In the early days of the Obama administration, the Department of Agriculture and the Justice Department held public \u003ca href=\"http://www.justice.gov/atr/public/workshops/ag2010/\">hearings\u003c/a> on alleged abuses by companies that dominate the meat business. Just a few weeks ago, the Pew Charitable Trusts released its own \u003ca href=\"http://www.pewenvironment.org/news-room/reports/the-business-of-broilers-hidden-costs-of-putting-a-chicken-on-every-grill-85899528152\">critique\u003c/a> of the broiler industry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Leonard's book, however, is probably the most detailed account of the inner workings of Tyson, as well as the relationship between poultry companies and the not-so-independent farmers who actually raise the birds. That relationship is often called \"contract farming.\" It was invented by the poultry industry, but is now gaining ground in the pork and beef industries, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In this system, the farmer owns the chicken houses, but the poultry companies are very much in control. They deliver the chicks on their own schedule — in fact, they aren't required to deliver any flocks at all. They supply the feed, and the feed additives.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78393\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 624px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/gr-tyson-chicken-tons-624.png\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/gr-tyson-chicken-tons-624.png\" alt=\"Source: U.S. Department of Agriculture Foreign Agricultural Service Credit: NPR\" width=\"624\" height=\"354\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78393\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Source: U.S. Department of Agriculture Foreign Agricultural Service\u003cbr>Credit: NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Leonard depicts that relationship as something like a con game run by the companies for their own benefit. \"Almost invariably, from everything I've seen, the farmer loses,\" he told \u003cem>Morning Edition\u003c/em>. \"The farmer takes the brunt of the volatility; the farmer swallows the worst of the losses when there is a problem with their chickens.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Leonard tells the stories of farmers who've fallen into bankruptcy, and implies that this outcome is almost inevitable. The National Chicken Council, an industry lobbying group, \u003ca href=\"http://www.nationalchickencouncil.org/new-book-misses-mark-nothing-educate-consumers-realities-modern-poultry-production/\">responded\u003c/a> with two pages of quotes from poultry producers who stoutly defend the contract growing systems. It also pointed out that when grain prices spiked a few years ago, chicken companies ate huge losses, while contract farmers, who didn't have to pay directly for the feed, were protected.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tyson, in a separate statement, said \"we depend on [contract farmers] and want them to succeed. Some of them have been raising livestock and poultry for us for decades, and in some cases, for multiple generations.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78394\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 624px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/gr-tyson-revenue-624.png\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/gr-tyson-revenue-624.png\" alt=\"Source: SEC filings Credit: NPR\" width=\"624\" height=\"354\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78394\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Source: SEC filings\u003cbr>Credit: NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>The Meat Racket\u003c/em>'s description of the problems with contract farming is more convincing than its ideas for how to build a better, more equitable alternative. Leonard, for instance, endorses the modest reforms put in place in Iowa, which guarantee farmers certain rights, such as the right to share contract information. But those reforms don't touch the basic shape of the system.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>His more ambitious hope is for a revival of free markets in meat production instead of vertically integrated supply chains run by big companies. Yet it's unclear whether this would really improve things. Competition among farmers is a brutal reality of commodity production; as farmers push to become more efficient, it drives down prices and pushes the weakest out of the business. In poultry, the companies run that competition; in many other commodities, free markets do the job.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Few American consumers seem to care very much about that. After all, if competition keeps prices low, why should they complain?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Leonard thinks the situation has changed, and that poultry superpowers now are using their power to raise chicken prices, squeezing consumers as well as farmers. Yet the industry's ability to protect its profits still seems limited. Five years ago, one of the biggest poultry companies in the country, Pilgrim's Pride, actually went bankrupt when feed prices soared.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pilgrim's Pride was snapped up by JBS, a Brazil-based multinational. It's now the biggest producer of meat in the world, ahead of Tyson. Increasing concentration in the meat industry, once fueled by Don Tyson's ambition, continues even without him.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Tyson Responds\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Read Tyson Foods' emailed statement to NPR responding to Christopher Leonard's observations.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Contrary to critics like Mr. Leonard, we provide opportunities for farmers to prosper and consumers to buy safe, affordable food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Tyson Foods is \u003ca href=\"http://www.tysonfoods.com/Our-Story/Farmers.aspx\" target=\"_blank\">one of the leading supporters of American farmers\u003c/a>, paying more than $15 billion last year alone to the thousands of independent farmers who supply us. We depend on them and want them to succeed. Some of them have been raising livestock and poultry for us for decades, and in some cases, for multiple generations. They own and operate their own farms and either sell their livestock to us or raise our chickens for us.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Our business is structured to meet the needs of our customers and ultimately consumers. We sell our products to retail and food service companies; however, we don't set consumer prices. What we ask for our products is determined by supply and demand. No one company is big enough to control the market, especially in today's global food environment. U.S. consumers still spend a smaller percentage of their total income on food than consumers in most other countries.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Meat production is already one of the most heavily-regulated industries in the country with laws covering such important areas as food and worker safety, livestock price reporting and product labeling as well as rules governing our business relationship with the farmers. But for us, it's not just about regulations, it's about people trying to do the right thing in every aspect of what we do, including how we work with farmers.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "California Toasts 2013's Record Wine Grape Harvest",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78354\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1672px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/ap298912867717-copy_wide-b846d5e790cbac3d42e60ca4055045e96e483416.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/ap298912867717-copy_wide-b846d5e790cbac3d42e60ca4055045e96e483416.jpg\" alt=\"Chardonnay grapes are picked in the Stelling Vineyard at Far Niente winery Wednesday morning, Aug. 28, 2013 in Oakville, Calif. Photo: Eric Risberg/AP\" width=\"1672\" height=\"940\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78354\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chardonnay grapes are picked in the Stelling Vineyard at Far Niente winery Wednesday morning, Aug. 28, 2013 in Oakville, Calif. Photo: Eric Risberg/AP\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by NPR Staff, \u003ca href=\"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2014/02/20140218_me_california_toasts_2013s_record_wine_grape_harvest.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1053&ft=3&f=278952357\" target=\"_blank\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (2/18/2014)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/02/18/278952357/california-toasts-2013s-record-wine-grape-harvest\">Morning Edition\u003c/a> [audio src=\"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2014/02/20140218_me_long-empty_air_raid_shelter_in_london_becomes_vegetable_farm.mp3\"] \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>California may be stricken by \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/news/2014/01/16/california-drought-update-governor-jerry-brown-declaring-drought-emergency\">drought\u003c/a>, but this month it's also celebrating a record wine grape harvest for 2013.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.winebusiness.com/company/management.cfm\">Cyril Penn\u003c/a>, editor of Wine Business Monthly, tells \u003cem>Morning Edition\u003c/em> that the state's \u003ca href=\"http://www.nass.usda.gov/Statistics_by_State/California/Publications/Grape_Crush/Reports/\">preliminary crush report\u003c/a> says 4.23 million tons of wine grapes were crushed in 2013, an increase of 5 percent over the 4.02 million tons crushed in 2012.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of the reasons for California's second bumper crop in a row is that growers have been planting more grapes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"There was the old adage that the less quantity the greater the quality, but as there's been more demand for grapes, the myth about quality and quantity is not there anymore,\" says Penn.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The record harvest also benefited from good weather for grape growing in recent years. In places like Napa Valley, there is still water enough water underground to keep the vineyards thriving despite the drought.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Penn says that luck might not hold much longer. The severe drought is likely to force growers top make some tough choices.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"There are some grape growers that are making contingency plans for if they don't have enough water which blocks of grapes will they water and which ones won't they water,\" says Penn. \"Fortunately grapes use relatively little water compared to a lot of other crops.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For now, wine lovers can raise a glass. The record harvest will produce more wine, likely meaning California wine will cost less. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"There was the old adage that the less quantity the greater the quality, but as there's been more demand for grapes, the myth about quality and quantity is not there anymore,\" says Penn.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The record harvest also benefited from good weather for grape growing in recent years. In places like Napa Valley, there is still water enough water underground to keep the vineyards thriving despite the drought.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Penn says that luck might not hold much longer. The severe drought is likely to force growers top make some tough choices.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"There are some grape growers that are making contingency plans for if they don't have enough water which blocks of grapes will they water and which ones won't they water,\" says Penn. \"Fortunately grapes use relatively little water compared to a lot of other crops.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For now, wine lovers can raise a glass. The record harvest will produce more wine, likely meaning California wine will cost less. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Old London Air Raid Shelter Becomes Vegetable Farm",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78333\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 1192px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/underground_02-copy_wide-7dcaf8290c4b2debacea94f1e1c86b9ed3d9b848.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/underground_02-copy_wide-7dcaf8290c4b2debacea94f1e1c86b9ed3d9b848.jpg\" alt=\"Zero Carbon Food is growing leafy greens, herbs and microgreens in a World War II bomb shelter in London. Photo: Zero Carbon Food\" width=\"1192\" height=\"670\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78333\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Zero Carbon Food is growing leafy greens, herbs and microgreens in a World War II bomb shelter in London. Photo: Zero Carbon Food\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by NPR Staff, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/02/18/278952319/old-london-air-raid-shelter-becomes-vegetable-farm\" target=\"_blank\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (2/18/2014)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/02/18/278952319/old-london-air-raid-shelter-becomes-vegetable-farm\">Morning Edition\u003c/a> [audio src=\"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2014/02/20140218_me_long-empty_air_raid_shelter_in_london_becomes_vegetable_farm.mp3\"] \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>During World War II, Londoners would descend spiral staircases into tunnels to escape German bombs. Now one of those long, empty air raid shelters is filled with fresh greens.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ten stories underground, businessman \u003ca href=\"http://www.linkedin.com/profile/view?id=27054914&authType=OPENLINK&authToken=YGCF&locale=en_US&srchid=76442731392738183343&srchindex=2&srchtotal=9&trk=vsrp_people_res_name&trkInfo=VSRPsearchId%3A76442731392738183343%2CVSRPtargetId%3A27054914%2CVSRPcmpt%3Aprimary\">Steven Dring\u003c/a> and his partner Richard Ballard have turned the tunnel into a vegetable farm, called \u003ca href=\"http://www.zerocarbonfood.co.uk/\">Zero Carbon Food\u003c/a>. They're backed by two-star Michelin chef \u003ca href=\"http://www.le-gavroche.co.uk/\">Michel Roux Jr.\u003c/a>, who's helping to ensure that they're growing only the tastiest of vegetables.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to Dring, this former bomb shelter is a surprisingly good place to grow food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's a nice sort of warm duvet of insulation for growing produce down there,\" Dring tells \u003cem>Morning Edition's\u003c/em> Renee Montagne.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So how's it set up?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here's how Dring describes it: \"If you just imagine a bench with ... a mat on it, and then we just sew the seeds onto that mat. And then underneath the lights, the roots grow into the mat that's in the tray, and then every 12 hours, water waters the mat again, and under the light it grows, so no soil is required.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sunlight, of course, doesn't reach that far underground. So Dring and Ballard use LED lights as a substitute. Dring says LED lights have evolved so much that you can pick and choose elements of the light spectrum to get light that's identical to the sun.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Those lights require energy, but to ensure the project truly is \"zero carbon,\" the energy comes from a company that gets all of its energy from wind and solar.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As for what's under cultivation way down there, Dring says they've got arugula, lettuce and \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2012/08/29/160274163/introducing-microgreens-younger-and-maybe-more-nutritious-vegetables\">microherbs\u003c/a> like coriander, mustard leaf and tatsoi.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One day, they might also grow tomatoes, which Dring assures would be very tasty, despite the fact that they're hydroponic.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chef Roux's \"palate is pretty damn good,\" says Dring. \"Selling a homogenous, sort of tasteless tomato is certainly not part of our plans.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Besides a commitment to good flavor, Dring says he's hopeful the venture will succeed because it also can reach consumers far more quickly than vegetables grown on a farm outside London.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Obviously as soon as you cut product, it starts to degrade in flavor,\" says Dring. \"We can get it to the market in from field to fork, in four to eight hours. Usually it travels 72 hours, maybe four or five days. That's what's really interesting to our customers and wholesalers — that's what's turning them on.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78333\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 1192px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/underground_02-copy_wide-7dcaf8290c4b2debacea94f1e1c86b9ed3d9b848.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/underground_02-copy_wide-7dcaf8290c4b2debacea94f1e1c86b9ed3d9b848.jpg\" alt=\"Zero Carbon Food is growing leafy greens, herbs and microgreens in a World War II bomb shelter in London. Photo: Zero Carbon Food\" width=\"1192\" height=\"670\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78333\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Zero Carbon Food is growing leafy greens, herbs and microgreens in a World War II bomb shelter in London. Photo: Zero Carbon Food\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by NPR Staff, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/02/18/278952319/old-london-air-raid-shelter-becomes-vegetable-farm\" target=\"_blank\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (2/18/2014)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/02/18/278952319/old-london-air-raid-shelter-becomes-vegetable-farm\">Morning Edition\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>During World War II, Londoners would descend spiral staircases into tunnels to escape German bombs. Now one of those long, empty air raid shelters is filled with fresh greens.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ten stories underground, businessman \u003ca href=\"http://www.linkedin.com/profile/view?id=27054914&authType=OPENLINK&authToken=YGCF&locale=en_US&srchid=76442731392738183343&srchindex=2&srchtotal=9&trk=vsrp_people_res_name&trkInfo=VSRPsearchId%3A76442731392738183343%2CVSRPtargetId%3A27054914%2CVSRPcmpt%3Aprimary\">Steven Dring\u003c/a> and his partner Richard Ballard have turned the tunnel into a vegetable farm, called \u003ca href=\"http://www.zerocarbonfood.co.uk/\">Zero Carbon Food\u003c/a>. They're backed by two-star Michelin chef \u003ca href=\"http://www.le-gavroche.co.uk/\">Michel Roux Jr.\u003c/a>, who's helping to ensure that they're growing only the tastiest of vegetables.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to Dring, this former bomb shelter is a surprisingly good place to grow food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's a nice sort of warm duvet of insulation for growing produce down there,\" Dring tells \u003cem>Morning Edition's\u003c/em> Renee Montagne.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So how's it set up?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here's how Dring describes it: \"If you just imagine a bench with ... a mat on it, and then we just sew the seeds onto that mat. And then underneath the lights, the roots grow into the mat that's in the tray, and then every 12 hours, water waters the mat again, and under the light it grows, so no soil is required.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sunlight, of course, doesn't reach that far underground. So Dring and Ballard use LED lights as a substitute. Dring says LED lights have evolved so much that you can pick and choose elements of the light spectrum to get light that's identical to the sun.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Those lights require energy, but to ensure the project truly is \"zero carbon,\" the energy comes from a company that gets all of its energy from wind and solar.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As for what's under cultivation way down there, Dring says they've got arugula, lettuce and \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2012/08/29/160274163/introducing-microgreens-younger-and-maybe-more-nutritious-vegetables\">microherbs\u003c/a> like coriander, mustard leaf and tatsoi.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One day, they might also grow tomatoes, which Dring assures would be very tasty, despite the fact that they're hydroponic.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chef Roux's \"palate is pretty damn good,\" says Dring. \"Selling a homogenous, sort of tasteless tomato is certainly not part of our plans.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Besides a commitment to good flavor, Dring says he's hopeful the venture will succeed because it also can reach consumers far more quickly than vegetables grown on a farm outside London.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Obviously as soon as you cut product, it starts to degrade in flavor,\" says Dring. \"We can get it to the market in from field to fork, in four to eight hours. Usually it travels 72 hours, maybe four or five days. That's what's really interesting to our customers and wholesalers — that's what's turning them on.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Drink Vodka, Eat Pickles, Repeat: Mastering the Zakuski Spread",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78316\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1678px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/zakuskitable_custom-cb2b5d9e736c4a74eba520f5fb67de0fcc940ded.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/zakuskitable_custom-cb2b5d9e736c4a74eba520f5fb67de0fcc940ded.jpg\" alt=\"Zakuski tables, like Slava and Luba Frumkin's, are known for their largesse. This spread includes smoked salmon and halibut, pickled green tomatoes, salted mackerel, Herring Under a Fur Coat and Georgian eggplant rolls. Photo: Deena Prichep/NPR\" width=\"1678\" height=\"938\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78316\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Zakuski tables, like Slava and Luba Frumkin's, are known for their largesse. This spread includes smoked salmon and halibut, pickled green tomatoes, salted mackerel, Herring Under a Fur Coat and Georgian eggplant rolls. Photo: Deena Prichep/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Deena Prichep, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/02/14/277043707/drink-vodka-eat-pickles-repeat-mastering-the-zakuski-spread\" target=\"_blank\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (2/15/2014)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/02/14/277043707/drink-vodka-eat-pickles-repeat-mastering-the-zakuski-spread\">Weekend Edition\u003c/a> [audio src=\"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/wesat/2014/02/20140215_wesat_drink_vodka_eat_pickles_repeat_mastering_the_zakuski_spread.mp3\"] \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As you gather with friends to watch the Olympics this weekend, why not prepare what they might serve in Sochi? Try, say, herring instead of chips.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But if you're really presenting food the Russian way, you'll need to make more than one snack. And get your libations in order.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Zakuski\u003c/em> are often described as Russia's answer to tapas — a little bite to have with your drink.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They can be as simple as salted herring, or as rich as blini and caviar. Traditionally, when you welcome guests in from the cold (whether from the Moscow streets, or from the hundreds of miles it takes to travel to a country estate), you give them a warming shot of vodka. And to protect your stomach and palate from the harsh vodka, you quickly follow it with a bite of \u003cem>zakuski\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You do not exhale, and you immediately eat something to kind of stun the taste,\" explains \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/09/17/223053778/kitchen-time-machine-a-culinary-romp-through-soviet-history\">Anya von Bremzen\u003c/a>, author of \u003cem>Mastering the Art of Soviet Cooking\u003c/em>. \"A shot of vodka, a little pickle, a little herring canapé.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And the dishes on the \u003cem>zakuski\u003c/em> table don't just provide a delicious snack. In a sense, they tell the story of Russia. There are pickles of all sorts — green tomatoes, apples, mushrooms, cabbage — a nod to the food preservation that kept produce available during the long Russian winters.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The \u003cem>zakuski\u003c/em> table also expanded during the Soviet Era — as new republics entered the Soviet Union, new flavors arose. There was the bright cuisine of the more temperate Caucasus — full of walnut sauce and fresh herbs for those with enough connections to secure them — and the Baltics, from which canned sprats are now a fixture on many \u003cem>zakuski\u003c/em> tables.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Soviet Era was also the era of mayonnaise, which brought several mayo-blanketed salads to the \u003cem>zakuski\u003c/em> table, as the state promoted this new industrial product — salads like the appealingly named \"\u003ca href=\"http://russiapedia.rt.com/of-russian-origin/herring-under-fur-coat/\">Herring Under a Fur Coat\u003c/a>,\" or \u003ca href=\"http://www.wnyc.org/story/recipe-1970s-salat-olivier-russian-potato-salad-pickles/\">Salat Olivier\u003c/a>. Von Bremzen is quick to point out that the tangy Russian-brand mayonnaise, Provensal, is much tastier than its American brethren. There were also canned foods, including cans of hard-to-get items.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Laying out \u003cem>zakuski\u003c/em> wasn't just about food. In a sense, it showed who you were, von Bremzen notes — especially during Soviet times.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We had no housing to speak of, we had no cars to speak of, we all wore the same clothes,\" she says. \"So the way you could actually show status, power, hospitality — a whole host of emotions — was through food. Through making this lavish \u003cem>zakuski\u003c/em> table.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And lavish is definitely the right word. Go to a Russian party, and you will be treated to \u003cem>zakuski\u003c/em> after \u003cem>zakuski\u003c/em>, fit onto a groaning table with Tetris-like precision. At a recent evening outside of Portland, Ore., Bonnie Morales struggled to fit the \u003cem>zakuski\u003c/em> onto her parents' table.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Every single time, it's like we're not going to fit all this on here,\" Morales says with a laugh. \"It's kind of embarrassing if there's tablecloth visible.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The assortment of dishes is standard for a \u003cem>zakuski\u003c/em> party, but staggering for an untrained audience. Blini with butter and caviar; Salat Olivier; pickled green tomatoes, plums and apples; smoked salmon, halibut and black cod; salted mackerel; brown bread toasts with egg and smoked sprats; salted mushrooms; Herring Under a Fur Coat; fish in tomato sauce; Georgian eggplant rolls; and canapé with sprats.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And that's not counting the hot \u003cem>zakuski\u003c/em>: \u003cem>piroshki\u003c/em> stuffed with cabbage and golden raisins and pickled mustard seeds; blintzes filled with mushrooms; and \u003cem>pelmeni\u003c/em> filled with farmer cheese.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Although these \u003cem>zakuski\u003c/em> are all delicious, they're almost just an excuse to fill your glass — which is an excuse to make toasts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Slava Frumkin, Morales' father, serves as the toastmaster, or \u003cem>tamada. \u003c/em>With his poetic prompting, others also raise their glasses, lifting toasts to family, to the table, to visiting family and new friends — all with a few bites of \u003cem>zakuski\u003c/em> in between.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And, as the accordion comes out, Frumkin raises a final glass to \u003ca href=\"http://kachkapdx.com/\">Kachka\u003c/a> — the \u003cem>zakuski\u003c/em> restaurant his daughter and son-in-law are preparing to open in Portland. They hope it will bring the family \u003cem>zakuski\u003c/em> tradition to a whole new American table. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "\u003cem>Zakuski \u003c/em>are like Russian tapas. More than a delicious snack, these dishes also tell the story of Russia. From \"Herring Under a Fur Coat\" to pickled everything, \u003cem>zakuski \u003c/em>teach us about harsh winters and state-sponsored products in the Soviet era.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78316\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1678px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/zakuskitable_custom-cb2b5d9e736c4a74eba520f5fb67de0fcc940ded.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/zakuskitable_custom-cb2b5d9e736c4a74eba520f5fb67de0fcc940ded.jpg\" alt=\"Zakuski tables, like Slava and Luba Frumkin's, are known for their largesse. This spread includes smoked salmon and halibut, pickled green tomatoes, salted mackerel, Herring Under a Fur Coat and Georgian eggplant rolls. Photo: Deena Prichep/NPR\" width=\"1678\" height=\"938\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78316\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Zakuski tables, like Slava and Luba Frumkin's, are known for their largesse. This spread includes smoked salmon and halibut, pickled green tomatoes, salted mackerel, Herring Under a Fur Coat and Georgian eggplant rolls. Photo: Deena Prichep/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Deena Prichep, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/02/14/277043707/drink-vodka-eat-pickles-repeat-mastering-the-zakuski-spread\" target=\"_blank\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (2/15/2014)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/02/14/277043707/drink-vodka-eat-pickles-repeat-mastering-the-zakuski-spread\">Weekend Edition\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They can be as simple as salted herring, or as rich as blini and caviar. Traditionally, when you welcome guests in from the cold (whether from the Moscow streets, or from the hundreds of miles it takes to travel to a country estate), you give them a warming shot of vodka. And to protect your stomach and palate from the harsh vodka, you quickly follow it with a bite of \u003cem>zakuski\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You do not exhale, and you immediately eat something to kind of stun the taste,\" explains \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/09/17/223053778/kitchen-time-machine-a-culinary-romp-through-soviet-history\">Anya von Bremzen\u003c/a>, author of \u003cem>Mastering the Art of Soviet Cooking\u003c/em>. \"A shot of vodka, a little pickle, a little herring canapé.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And the dishes on the \u003cem>zakuski\u003c/em> table don't just provide a delicious snack. In a sense, they tell the story of Russia. There are pickles of all sorts — green tomatoes, apples, mushrooms, cabbage — a nod to the food preservation that kept produce available during the long Russian winters.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The \u003cem>zakuski\u003c/em> table also expanded during the Soviet Era — as new republics entered the Soviet Union, new flavors arose. There was the bright cuisine of the more temperate Caucasus — full of walnut sauce and fresh herbs for those with enough connections to secure them — and the Baltics, from which canned sprats are now a fixture on many \u003cem>zakuski\u003c/em> tables.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Soviet Era was also the era of mayonnaise, which brought several mayo-blanketed salads to the \u003cem>zakuski\u003c/em> table, as the state promoted this new industrial product — salads like the appealingly named \"\u003ca href=\"http://russiapedia.rt.com/of-russian-origin/herring-under-fur-coat/\">Herring Under a Fur Coat\u003c/a>,\" or \u003ca href=\"http://www.wnyc.org/story/recipe-1970s-salat-olivier-russian-potato-salad-pickles/\">Salat Olivier\u003c/a>. Von Bremzen is quick to point out that the tangy Russian-brand mayonnaise, Provensal, is much tastier than its American brethren. There were also canned foods, including cans of hard-to-get items.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Laying out \u003cem>zakuski\u003c/em> wasn't just about food. In a sense, it showed who you were, von Bremzen notes — especially during Soviet times.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We had no housing to speak of, we had no cars to speak of, we all wore the same clothes,\" she says. \"So the way you could actually show status, power, hospitality — a whole host of emotions — was through food. Through making this lavish \u003cem>zakuski\u003c/em> table.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And lavish is definitely the right word. Go to a Russian party, and you will be treated to \u003cem>zakuski\u003c/em> after \u003cem>zakuski\u003c/em>, fit onto a groaning table with Tetris-like precision. At a recent evening outside of Portland, Ore., Bonnie Morales struggled to fit the \u003cem>zakuski\u003c/em> onto her parents' table.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Every single time, it's like we're not going to fit all this on here,\" Morales says with a laugh. \"It's kind of embarrassing if there's tablecloth visible.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The assortment of dishes is standard for a \u003cem>zakuski\u003c/em> party, but staggering for an untrained audience. Blini with butter and caviar; Salat Olivier; pickled green tomatoes, plums and apples; smoked salmon, halibut and black cod; salted mackerel; brown bread toasts with egg and smoked sprats; salted mushrooms; Herring Under a Fur Coat; fish in tomato sauce; Georgian eggplant rolls; and canapé with sprats.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And that's not counting the hot \u003cem>zakuski\u003c/em>: \u003cem>piroshki\u003c/em> stuffed with cabbage and golden raisins and pickled mustard seeds; blintzes filled with mushrooms; and \u003cem>pelmeni\u003c/em> filled with farmer cheese.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Although these \u003cem>zakuski\u003c/em> are all delicious, they're almost just an excuse to fill your glass — which is an excuse to make toasts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Slava Frumkin, Morales' father, serves as the toastmaster, or \u003cem>tamada. \u003c/em>With his poetic prompting, others also raise their glasses, lifting toasts to family, to the table, to visiting family and new friends — all with a few bites of \u003cem>zakuski\u003c/em> in between.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And, as the accordion comes out, Frumkin raises a final glass to \u003ca href=\"http://kachkapdx.com/\">Kachka\u003c/a> — the \u003cem>zakuski\u003c/em> restaurant his daughter and son-in-law are preparing to open in Portland. They hope it will bring the family \u003cem>zakuski\u003c/em> tradition to a whole new American table. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "For the Love of Oysters: How a Kiss From the Sea Evokes Passion",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78298\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1449px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/oysters-de636efa2af93ba326d8c64cf4723b661565b750.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/oysters-de636efa2af93ba326d8c64cf4723b661565b750.jpg\" alt=\"The stories linking oysters and other shellfish to lust go back to at least the ancient Greeks. (Maggie Starbard/NPR)\" width=\"1449\" height=\"1086\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78298\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The stories linking oysters and other shellfish to lust go back to at least the ancient Greeks. (Maggie Starbard/NPR)\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/02/14/276585292/for-the-love-of-oysters-how-a-kiss-from-the-sea-evokes-passion\" target=\"_blank\">Allison Aubrey\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/02/14/276585292/for-the-love-of-oysters-how-a-kiss-from-the-sea-evokes-passion\" target=\"_blank\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (2/15/2014)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/02/14/276585292/for-the-love-of-oysters-how-a-kiss-from-the-sea-evokes-passion\">All Things Considered\u003c/a> [audio src=\"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/atc/2014/02/20140214_atc_are_oysters_aphrodisiacs.mp3\"] \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Question: Which of these foods are said to stir passion? An oyster, an avocado or a turnip? (Scroll down to the bottom for the answer.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of these, at least, is a gimme. The stories linking oysters and other shellfish to lust go back to at least the ancient Greeks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Think of the image of Aphrodite, the goddess of love, rising out of the sea from the half-shell.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"There's something primal about eating oysters,\" says oyster-lover MJ Gimbar. He describes them as creamy and velvety. \"It's like a kiss from the ocean.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78299\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1449px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/mj-420abca270b8400817a73532d777f1ffe59a2290.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/mj-420abca270b8400817a73532d777f1ffe59a2290.jpg\" alt=\"Fishmonger MJ Gimbar serves up some oysters at BlackSalt Fish Market & Restaurant in Washington, D.C. (Maggie Starbard/NPR)\" width=\"1449\" height=\"1086\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78299\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fishmonger MJ Gimbar serves up some oysters at BlackSalt Fish Market & Restaurant in Washington, D.C. (Maggie Starbard/NPR)\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>It's a good thing his passions run so deep, because part of his job as fishmonger for the Washington, D.C-region's \u003ca href=\"http://www.blackrestaurantgroup.com/\">Black Restaurant Group\u003c/a> is to introduce newbies to the experience of oysters.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>His trick: Offer up a big range of tastes. As he describes in his blog \u003ca href=\"http://theedibleocean.blogspot.com/2012/09/new-oyster-in-town.html\">The Edible Ocean\u003c/a>, not all oysters are salty.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>During a tasting, he serves up a Kumamoto Oyster, which is sweet, almost melon-like.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then he introduces a \u003ca href=\"http://barrenislandoysters.com/\">Barren Island Oyster\u003c/a>, which, by contrast, is buttery and mild, with hints of a mineral-like taste. \"The taste is indicative of where [the oyster] grows.\" Barren Island Oysters are harvested in the Chesapeake Bay.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Increasingly, fishmongers play up the equivalent of a wine terroir. \"The water [where the oysters are grown] and the species all make a difference\" to the taste, Gimbar says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, when it comes to evoking an aphrodisiac effect? Well, if you talk to oyster-lovers like Gimbar, \u003cem>all\u003c/em> oysters seem to have the potential.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Isn't it the zinc?\" diners have asked Gimbar. Well, maybe. Oysters do contain zinc. And scientists have found a link between zinc and testosterone levels.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But this is a long way from proving that eating a plate-full can stir carnal lust.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In recent years, scientists have been studying the amino acids in mollusks, including oysters.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78297\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 217px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/oysters_vert-d5271dac1d26d693de53fc9677e292e12677067e.jpe\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/oysters_vert-d5271dac1d26d693de53fc9677e292e12677067e-217x290.jpe\" alt=\"Lunch with oysters and wine by Frans van Mieris, 1635-1681. (Universal Images Group/UIG via Getty Images)\" width=\"217\" height=\"290\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-78297\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Lunch with oysters and wine by Frans van Mieris, 1635-1681. (Universal Images Group/UIG via Getty Images)\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>One \u003ca href=\"http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/?term=dl-Aspartic+acid+administration+improves+semen+quality+in+rabbit+bucks\">pape\u003c/a>r published a few years ago in the journal \u003cem>Animal Reproductive Science\u003c/em> documented a link between high levels of the amino acid D-Aspartic acid and improved sperm count — in rabbits.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, it's not clear how much of this amino acid we're getting when we eat a plate of oysters. And the extent to which this could be true in humans begs a \u003cem>lot\u003c/em> more scientific investigation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But it's intriguing that, centuries after the Greeks made the love connection, scientists are still trying to pin down whether there's something to it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Culinary historian \u003ca href=\"http://www.travel-new-england.com/blog/2012/11/19/an-interview-with-kathleen-wall-colonial-foodways-culinarian-for-plimoth-plantation/\">Kathleen Wall\u003c/a> of the Plimoth Plantation in Massachusetts has a different theory as to why the stories connecting love and oysters have amplified over time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's perception,\" Wall says. \"What people think about food has an effect on the body. It's the placebo effect.\" The stories we tell ourselves become true, she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She points to 17th-century Dutch paintings where scattered oyster shells are a common symbol of lust.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And how about the women who sold oysters in Colonial America? \"Oyster wenches were thought to be a little loose because they were so stirred up by the proximity [to the] oysters,\" Wall says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We haven't let go of these [associations],\" Wall says. And over time, they've only become stronger.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Whether it's love or lust, oysters carry their past with them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And, oh, I won't leave you in the lurch re: the avocado and the turnip. Turns out, they've all been said to stir up, well you know, desire.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Really, the turnip? Yes — \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thomas_Elyot\">Thomas Elyot\u003c/a>, an influential health writer from the 16th century, recommended the turnip to promote carnal lust.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So if oysters are not in your Valentine's Day budget, hey, maybe look to that root vegetable for an affordable alternative. \u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>How To Shuck An Oyster\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Step 1:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/mg_4146-ba19619501ed429ad30d90d6d108542600921ed7.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/mg_4146-ba19619501ed429ad30d90d6d108542600921ed7.jpg\" alt=\"Wiggle (don't jab) the knife in from the hinge of the shell.Turn it like a key. Once you have leverage, MJ says you can pop off the top shell. Make sure the cup-side of the shell is on the bottom.\" width=\"1449\" height=\"1086\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-78294\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wiggle (don't jab) the knife in from the hinge of the shell. Turn it like a key. Once you have leverage, MJ says you can pop off the top shell. Make sure the cup-side of the shell is on the bottom.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Step 2:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/mg_4153_wide-21c1ed630febf440050dbf862e04888bbda59663.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/mg_4153_wide-21c1ed630febf440050dbf862e04888bbda59663.jpg\" alt=\"Slide the knife along the top to severe the abductor, which is the muscle attached to the shell.\" width=\"1673\" height=\"940\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-78295\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Slide the knife along the top to severe the abductor, which is the muscle attached to the shell.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Step 3:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/mg_4160_wide-c5bef6325294058a4c2bab68dd3c4f41947a582d.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/mg_4160_wide-c5bef6325294058a4c2bab68dd3c4f41947a582d.jpg\" alt=\"Then slice along bottom, make sure you hold steady to preserve the liquor inside. Your oyster will now slide right off.\" width=\"1674\" height=\"940\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-78296\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then slice along bottom, make sure you hold steady to preserve the liquor inside. Your oyster will now slide right off.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Scientists have made some attempts to link mollusks to increased libido. There's even evidence that consuming heavy doses of an amino acid found in oysters can increase sperm count – in rabbits. But do any of these findings actually prove that oysters can — ahem — amp up arousal? Not so much.",
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"description": "Scientists have made some attempts to link mollusks to increased libido. There's even evidence that consuming heavy doses of an amino acid found in oysters can increase sperm count – in rabbits. But do any of these findings actually prove that oysters can — ahem — amp up arousal? Not so much.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78298\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1449px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/oysters-de636efa2af93ba326d8c64cf4723b661565b750.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/oysters-de636efa2af93ba326d8c64cf4723b661565b750.jpg\" alt=\"The stories linking oysters and other shellfish to lust go back to at least the ancient Greeks. (Maggie Starbard/NPR)\" width=\"1449\" height=\"1086\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78298\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The stories linking oysters and other shellfish to lust go back to at least the ancient Greeks. (Maggie Starbard/NPR)\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/02/14/276585292/for-the-love-of-oysters-how-a-kiss-from-the-sea-evokes-passion\" target=\"_blank\">Allison Aubrey\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/02/14/276585292/for-the-love-of-oysters-how-a-kiss-from-the-sea-evokes-passion\" target=\"_blank\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (2/15/2014)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/02/14/276585292/for-the-love-of-oysters-how-a-kiss-from-the-sea-evokes-passion\">All Things Considered\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Question: Which of these foods are said to stir passion? An oyster, an avocado or a turnip? (Scroll down to the bottom for the answer.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of these, at least, is a gimme. The stories linking oysters and other shellfish to lust go back to at least the ancient Greeks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Think of the image of Aphrodite, the goddess of love, rising out of the sea from the half-shell.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"There's something primal about eating oysters,\" says oyster-lover MJ Gimbar. He describes them as creamy and velvety. \"It's like a kiss from the ocean.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78299\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1449px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/mj-420abca270b8400817a73532d777f1ffe59a2290.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/mj-420abca270b8400817a73532d777f1ffe59a2290.jpg\" alt=\"Fishmonger MJ Gimbar serves up some oysters at BlackSalt Fish Market & Restaurant in Washington, D.C. (Maggie Starbard/NPR)\" width=\"1449\" height=\"1086\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78299\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fishmonger MJ Gimbar serves up some oysters at BlackSalt Fish Market & Restaurant in Washington, D.C. (Maggie Starbard/NPR)\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>It's a good thing his passions run so deep, because part of his job as fishmonger for the Washington, D.C-region's \u003ca href=\"http://www.blackrestaurantgroup.com/\">Black Restaurant Group\u003c/a> is to introduce newbies to the experience of oysters.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>His trick: Offer up a big range of tastes. As he describes in his blog \u003ca href=\"http://theedibleocean.blogspot.com/2012/09/new-oyster-in-town.html\">The Edible Ocean\u003c/a>, not all oysters are salty.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>During a tasting, he serves up a Kumamoto Oyster, which is sweet, almost melon-like.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then he introduces a \u003ca href=\"http://barrenislandoysters.com/\">Barren Island Oyster\u003c/a>, which, by contrast, is buttery and mild, with hints of a mineral-like taste. \"The taste is indicative of where [the oyster] grows.\" Barren Island Oysters are harvested in the Chesapeake Bay.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Increasingly, fishmongers play up the equivalent of a wine terroir. \"The water [where the oysters are grown] and the species all make a difference\" to the taste, Gimbar says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, when it comes to evoking an aphrodisiac effect? Well, if you talk to oyster-lovers like Gimbar, \u003cem>all\u003c/em> oysters seem to have the potential.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Isn't it the zinc?\" diners have asked Gimbar. Well, maybe. Oysters do contain zinc. And scientists have found a link between zinc and testosterone levels.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But this is a long way from proving that eating a plate-full can stir carnal lust.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In recent years, scientists have been studying the amino acids in mollusks, including oysters.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78297\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 217px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/oysters_vert-d5271dac1d26d693de53fc9677e292e12677067e.jpe\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/oysters_vert-d5271dac1d26d693de53fc9677e292e12677067e-217x290.jpe\" alt=\"Lunch with oysters and wine by Frans van Mieris, 1635-1681. (Universal Images Group/UIG via Getty Images)\" width=\"217\" height=\"290\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-78297\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Lunch with oysters and wine by Frans van Mieris, 1635-1681. (Universal Images Group/UIG via Getty Images)\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>One \u003ca href=\"http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/?term=dl-Aspartic+acid+administration+improves+semen+quality+in+rabbit+bucks\">pape\u003c/a>r published a few years ago in the journal \u003cem>Animal Reproductive Science\u003c/em> documented a link between high levels of the amino acid D-Aspartic acid and improved sperm count — in rabbits.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, it's not clear how much of this amino acid we're getting when we eat a plate of oysters. And the extent to which this could be true in humans begs a \u003cem>lot\u003c/em> more scientific investigation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But it's intriguing that, centuries after the Greeks made the love connection, scientists are still trying to pin down whether there's something to it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Culinary historian \u003ca href=\"http://www.travel-new-england.com/blog/2012/11/19/an-interview-with-kathleen-wall-colonial-foodways-culinarian-for-plimoth-plantation/\">Kathleen Wall\u003c/a> of the Plimoth Plantation in Massachusetts has a different theory as to why the stories connecting love and oysters have amplified over time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's perception,\" Wall says. \"What people think about food has an effect on the body. It's the placebo effect.\" The stories we tell ourselves become true, she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She points to 17th-century Dutch paintings where scattered oyster shells are a common symbol of lust.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And how about the women who sold oysters in Colonial America? \"Oyster wenches were thought to be a little loose because they were so stirred up by the proximity [to the] oysters,\" Wall says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We haven't let go of these [associations],\" Wall says. And over time, they've only become stronger.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Whether it's love or lust, oysters carry their past with them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And, oh, I won't leave you in the lurch re: the avocado and the turnip. Turns out, they've all been said to stir up, well you know, desire.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Really, the turnip? Yes — \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thomas_Elyot\">Thomas Elyot\u003c/a>, an influential health writer from the 16th century, recommended the turnip to promote carnal lust.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So if oysters are not in your Valentine's Day budget, hey, maybe look to that root vegetable for an affordable alternative. \u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>How To Shuck An Oyster\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Step 1:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/mg_4146-ba19619501ed429ad30d90d6d108542600921ed7.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/mg_4146-ba19619501ed429ad30d90d6d108542600921ed7.jpg\" alt=\"Wiggle (don't jab) the knife in from the hinge of the shell.Turn it like a key. Once you have leverage, MJ says you can pop off the top shell. Make sure the cup-side of the shell is on the bottom.\" width=\"1449\" height=\"1086\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-78294\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wiggle (don't jab) the knife in from the hinge of the shell. Turn it like a key. Once you have leverage, MJ says you can pop off the top shell. Make sure the cup-side of the shell is on the bottom.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Step 2:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/mg_4153_wide-21c1ed630febf440050dbf862e04888bbda59663.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/mg_4153_wide-21c1ed630febf440050dbf862e04888bbda59663.jpg\" alt=\"Slide the knife along the top to severe the abductor, which is the muscle attached to the shell.\" width=\"1673\" height=\"940\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-78295\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Slide the knife along the top to severe the abductor, which is the muscle attached to the shell.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Step 3:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/mg_4160_wide-c5bef6325294058a4c2bab68dd3c4f41947a582d.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/mg_4160_wide-c5bef6325294058a4c2bab68dd3c4f41947a582d.jpg\" alt=\"Then slice along bottom, make sure you hold steady to preserve the liquor inside. Your oyster will now slide right off.\" width=\"1674\" height=\"940\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-78296\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then slice along bottom, make sure you hold steady to preserve the liquor inside. Your oyster will now slide right off.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Shanghai Warms Up To A New Cuisine: Chinese Food, American-Style",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78199\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/fortune-cookie-1-4d80f452637436e624b3f3458afcc68496263e19.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/fortune-cookie-1-4d80f452637436e624b3f3458afcc68496263e19-1024x766.jpg\" alt=\"The majority of patrons at Shanghai's Fortune Cookie restaurant are foreigners, particularly Americans who crave the American-Chinese food they grew up with but can't find in China. (Frank Langfitt/NPR)\" width=\"1024\" height=\"766\" class=\"size-large wp-image-78199\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The majority of patrons at Shanghai's Fortune Cookie restaurant are foreigners, particularly Americans who crave the American-Chinese food they grew up with but can't find in China. (Frank Langfitt/NPR)\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/4569077/frank-langfitt\" target=\"_blank\">Frank Langfitt\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/02/12/275628045/cornell-pair-introduce-american-chinese-food-to-shanghai\" target=\"_blank\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (2/12/2014)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/02/12/275628045/cornell-pair-introduce-american-chinese-food-to-shanghai\">Morning Edition\u003c/a> [audio src=\"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2014/02/20140212_me_fortune_cookie_serves_up_american-chinese_takeout_in_china.mp3\"] \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Imagine living in China and missing Chinese food. It happens. American expatriates who grew up with popular takeout dishes like General Tso's chicken can't find it in China because it essentially doesn't exist here.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Much of the Chinese food we grew up with isn't really Chinese. It's an American version of Chinese food. Chinese immigrants created it over time, adapting recipes with U.S. ingredients to appeal to American palates.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, Americans living in Shanghai can get a fix of their beloved Chinatown cuisine at a new restaurant \u003ca href=\"http://www.fortunecookieshanghai.com/\">called Fortune Cookie\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A pair of American entrepreneurs launched Fortune Cookie last year to cater to nostalgic expatriates and local Chinese. The venture could be seen as one big prank — the culinary equivalent of coals to Newcastle.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78200\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/fortune-cookie-2-7d551554f49f12fcb1f3f21efc77fdf0e92eec30.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/fortune-cookie-2-7d551554f49f12fcb1f3f21efc77fdf0e92eec30-1024x766.jpg\" alt=\"American entrepreneurs David Rossi (left) and Fung Lam co-own Fortune Cookie, a new Shanghai restaurant that serves Chinatown cuisine. (Frank Langfitt/NPR)\" width=\"1024\" height=\"766\" class=\"size-large wp-image-78200\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">American entrepreneurs David Rossi (left) and Fung Lam co-own Fortune Cookie, a new Shanghai restaurant that serves Chinatown cuisine. (Frank Langfitt/NPR)\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"A lot of people called us crazy and were banking on us closing after six months,\" says co-owner Fung Lam, 31, who grew up in North Jersey.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Eight months later, though, the doors here are still open, and Lam is hopeful he can find a market.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"American-Chinese food is another regional cuisine for China,\" he says, likening it Sichuan, Hunan and Cantonese food, which seems a bit of a stretch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lam is a third-generation Chinese-American restaurateur. His grandfather came from Hong Kong and opened his first restaurant in Brooklyn in the 1960s. Lam spent his teenage years packing takeout boxes in one of the family's restaurants in New Jersey.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fortune Cookie's core demographic includes patrons like Megan Emery-Moore, who teaches art at Shanghai American School. Emery-Moore grew up in a town of 20,000 in Missouri, where she waitressed at a Chinese restaurant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"They had amazing sweet-and-sour chicken,\" she recalls, \"so ever since then, I was always like: I've got to get more that was just like that.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As we chat, Emery-Moore digs into a plate of sweet-and-sour chicken covered in sauce and pineapples.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's kind of embarrassing that you're in China eating American-Chinese food, but it was just spot on,\" says Emery-Moore, referring to her meal. She says the food transports her to another place and time. \"I feel calm. I feel relaxed. I feel like I'm at home.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>No Taste Like Home\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The food at Fortune Cookie tastes like home because many key ingredients — Skippy peanut butter, Mott's applesauce and Philadelphia cream cheese — originate there.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mott's goes in the duck sauce as well as the chili sauce for spring rolls. Skippy is used in fried noodles and fried rice. Cream cheese serves as filling in Crab Rangoon, a deep-fried dumpling appetizer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Standing in the restaurant's cramped kitchen next to a bubbling wok of sweet-and-sour sauce, Lam reveals the secret behind the dish Megan Emery-Moore swears by.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Off the top of my head, about one-third of it is Heinz ketchup,\" says Lam matter-of-factly. That's \"what gives it that bright, red-orangey color.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78201\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 234px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/fortune-cookie-3_enl-871508499b0327c57559bb3016166b09e59b7fbe.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/fortune-cookie-3_enl-871508499b0327c57559bb3016166b09e59b7fbe-234x290.jpg\" alt=\"Fortune Cookie serves authentic American-Chinese dishes, including many that won't be found elsewhere in China. (Frank Langfitt/NPR)\" width=\"234\" height=\"290\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-78201\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fortune Cookie serves authentic American-Chinese dishes, including many that won't be found elsewhere in China. (Frank Langfitt/NPR)\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>When Lam came to Shanghai in 2012, he wasn't thinking about opening a place like this. He and his business partner, David Rossi, who met in a master's program in hospitality management at Cornell University, planned a quick-service restaurant that focused on healthy food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When that concept ran into trouble — China is \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2013/02/11/171081595/auntie-annes-pretzels-in-beijing-why-the-chinese-didnt-bite\">a notoriously tough place to do business\u003c/a> — the pair considered what was missing from the burgeoning culinary scene in this city of 24 million.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"If you're out here, there are so many pizzerias and burger places and bistro bars and tapas ... so you almost don't even miss being in the States,\" says Lam. But when he went looking for the Chinese comfort food his family made back home, he couldn't find it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"A light bulb went off,\" says Lam, who wears a pinstripe apron and black, backwards baseball cap.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Intro To Fortune Cookies And Takeout Boxes\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Getting Fortune Cookie up and running wasn't easy. The owners sourced the restaurant's namesake, a treat that's unheard of in China, from a factory in neighboring Jiangsu province that exported to the Netherlands.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When the sample fortune cookies arrived, they cracked them open to find all the fortunes were written in Dutch. With the restaurant's opening looming, panic set in.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You have no idea how hard it is to write a fortune when you have to come up with 120 of them in one night,\" says Rossi, 33, who grew up in South Pasadena, Calif.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rossi says the first 40 fortunes they wrote were pretty good, but by 2 a.m., their imaginations were spent. They wrote single-word messages such as \"Yes\" and \"No.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Guests were not impressed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Who wrote this?\" Rossi recalls one bewildered customer complaining as he cracked open a cookie. \"This is horrific!\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The restaurant now has a box where customers can suggest their own fortunes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chinese people make up about 40 percent of the lunch crowd at Fortune Cookie these days, and they seem to enjoy the food. Earlier this week, George Zhao, a management consultant who spent eight years in Melbourne, praised his dish of beef and broccoli. But Zhao said, in general, Westernized Chinese food lacks the subtlety of the original cuisine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"For example, the sweet-and-sour pork — the pork is too sweet,\" said Zhao. \"In China, we don't eat food this sweet.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A few booths away sat Jack Zhang, who works in advertising. A Chinese colleague brought him here to taste a new kind of food. After a plate of orange chicken, Zhang bit into his first fortune cookie. He furrowed his brow and searched for the words to describe it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Hmmm. This is like glutinous rice,\" he said in Mandarin. \"It also tastes like a street-side pancake. I've never been to America, so I'm not quite clear about this thing.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another thing at Fortune Cookie that intrigues people here are the white cardboard takeout boxes with wire handles and red pagodas on the side. Ubiquitous in America, they are known to Chinese only through scenes in Hollywood movies.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When the restaurant staff saw them for the first time, they were so excited, they took photos. Then, with \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/tags/171457556/chinese-new-year\">Lunar New Year\u003c/a> approaching, they loaded up some boxes and fortune cookies and took them home to show their families. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78199\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/fortune-cookie-1-4d80f452637436e624b3f3458afcc68496263e19.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/fortune-cookie-1-4d80f452637436e624b3f3458afcc68496263e19-1024x766.jpg\" alt=\"The majority of patrons at Shanghai's Fortune Cookie restaurant are foreigners, particularly Americans who crave the American-Chinese food they grew up with but can't find in China. (Frank Langfitt/NPR)\" width=\"1024\" height=\"766\" class=\"size-large wp-image-78199\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The majority of patrons at Shanghai's Fortune Cookie restaurant are foreigners, particularly Americans who crave the American-Chinese food they grew up with but can't find in China. (Frank Langfitt/NPR)\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/4569077/frank-langfitt\" target=\"_blank\">Frank Langfitt\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/02/12/275628045/cornell-pair-introduce-american-chinese-food-to-shanghai\" target=\"_blank\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (2/12/2014)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/02/12/275628045/cornell-pair-introduce-american-chinese-food-to-shanghai\">Morning Edition\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Imagine living in China and missing Chinese food. It happens. American expatriates who grew up with popular takeout dishes like General Tso's chicken can't find it in China because it essentially doesn't exist here.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Much of the Chinese food we grew up with isn't really Chinese. It's an American version of Chinese food. Chinese immigrants created it over time, adapting recipes with U.S. ingredients to appeal to American palates.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, Americans living in Shanghai can get a fix of their beloved Chinatown cuisine at a new restaurant \u003ca href=\"http://www.fortunecookieshanghai.com/\">called Fortune Cookie\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A pair of American entrepreneurs launched Fortune Cookie last year to cater to nostalgic expatriates and local Chinese. The venture could be seen as one big prank — the culinary equivalent of coals to Newcastle.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78200\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/fortune-cookie-2-7d551554f49f12fcb1f3f21efc77fdf0e92eec30.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/fortune-cookie-2-7d551554f49f12fcb1f3f21efc77fdf0e92eec30-1024x766.jpg\" alt=\"American entrepreneurs David Rossi (left) and Fung Lam co-own Fortune Cookie, a new Shanghai restaurant that serves Chinatown cuisine. (Frank Langfitt/NPR)\" width=\"1024\" height=\"766\" class=\"size-large wp-image-78200\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">American entrepreneurs David Rossi (left) and Fung Lam co-own Fortune Cookie, a new Shanghai restaurant that serves Chinatown cuisine. (Frank Langfitt/NPR)\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"A lot of people called us crazy and were banking on us closing after six months,\" says co-owner Fung Lam, 31, who grew up in North Jersey.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Eight months later, though, the doors here are still open, and Lam is hopeful he can find a market.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"American-Chinese food is another regional cuisine for China,\" he says, likening it Sichuan, Hunan and Cantonese food, which seems a bit of a stretch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lam is a third-generation Chinese-American restaurateur. His grandfather came from Hong Kong and opened his first restaurant in Brooklyn in the 1960s. Lam spent his teenage years packing takeout boxes in one of the family's restaurants in New Jersey.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fortune Cookie's core demographic includes patrons like Megan Emery-Moore, who teaches art at Shanghai American School. Emery-Moore grew up in a town of 20,000 in Missouri, where she waitressed at a Chinese restaurant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"They had amazing sweet-and-sour chicken,\" she recalls, \"so ever since then, I was always like: I've got to get more that was just like that.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As we chat, Emery-Moore digs into a plate of sweet-and-sour chicken covered in sauce and pineapples.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's kind of embarrassing that you're in China eating American-Chinese food, but it was just spot on,\" says Emery-Moore, referring to her meal. She says the food transports her to another place and time. \"I feel calm. I feel relaxed. I feel like I'm at home.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>No Taste Like Home\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The food at Fortune Cookie tastes like home because many key ingredients — Skippy peanut butter, Mott's applesauce and Philadelphia cream cheese — originate there.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mott's goes in the duck sauce as well as the chili sauce for spring rolls. Skippy is used in fried noodles and fried rice. Cream cheese serves as filling in Crab Rangoon, a deep-fried dumpling appetizer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Standing in the restaurant's cramped kitchen next to a bubbling wok of sweet-and-sour sauce, Lam reveals the secret behind the dish Megan Emery-Moore swears by.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Off the top of my head, about one-third of it is Heinz ketchup,\" says Lam matter-of-factly. That's \"what gives it that bright, red-orangey color.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78201\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 234px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/fortune-cookie-3_enl-871508499b0327c57559bb3016166b09e59b7fbe.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/fortune-cookie-3_enl-871508499b0327c57559bb3016166b09e59b7fbe-234x290.jpg\" alt=\"Fortune Cookie serves authentic American-Chinese dishes, including many that won't be found elsewhere in China. (Frank Langfitt/NPR)\" width=\"234\" height=\"290\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-78201\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fortune Cookie serves authentic American-Chinese dishes, including many that won't be found elsewhere in China. (Frank Langfitt/NPR)\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>When Lam came to Shanghai in 2012, he wasn't thinking about opening a place like this. He and his business partner, David Rossi, who met in a master's program in hospitality management at Cornell University, planned a quick-service restaurant that focused on healthy food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When that concept ran into trouble — China is \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2013/02/11/171081595/auntie-annes-pretzels-in-beijing-why-the-chinese-didnt-bite\">a notoriously tough place to do business\u003c/a> — the pair considered what was missing from the burgeoning culinary scene in this city of 24 million.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"If you're out here, there are so many pizzerias and burger places and bistro bars and tapas ... so you almost don't even miss being in the States,\" says Lam. But when he went looking for the Chinese comfort food his family made back home, he couldn't find it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"A light bulb went off,\" says Lam, who wears a pinstripe apron and black, backwards baseball cap.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Intro To Fortune Cookies And Takeout Boxes\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Getting Fortune Cookie up and running wasn't easy. The owners sourced the restaurant's namesake, a treat that's unheard of in China, from a factory in neighboring Jiangsu province that exported to the Netherlands.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When the sample fortune cookies arrived, they cracked them open to find all the fortunes were written in Dutch. With the restaurant's opening looming, panic set in.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You have no idea how hard it is to write a fortune when you have to come up with 120 of them in one night,\" says Rossi, 33, who grew up in South Pasadena, Calif.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rossi says the first 40 fortunes they wrote were pretty good, but by 2 a.m., their imaginations were spent. They wrote single-word messages such as \"Yes\" and \"No.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Guests were not impressed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Who wrote this?\" Rossi recalls one bewildered customer complaining as he cracked open a cookie. \"This is horrific!\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The restaurant now has a box where customers can suggest their own fortunes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chinese people make up about 40 percent of the lunch crowd at Fortune Cookie these days, and they seem to enjoy the food. Earlier this week, George Zhao, a management consultant who spent eight years in Melbourne, praised his dish of beef and broccoli. But Zhao said, in general, Westernized Chinese food lacks the subtlety of the original cuisine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"For example, the sweet-and-sour pork — the pork is too sweet,\" said Zhao. \"In China, we don't eat food this sweet.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A few booths away sat Jack Zhang, who works in advertising. A Chinese colleague brought him here to taste a new kind of food. After a plate of orange chicken, Zhang bit into his first fortune cookie. He furrowed his brow and searched for the words to describe it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Hmmm. This is like glutinous rice,\" he said in Mandarin. \"It also tastes like a street-side pancake. I've never been to America, so I'm not quite clear about this thing.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another thing at Fortune Cookie that intrigues people here are the white cardboard takeout boxes with wire handles and red pagodas on the side. Ubiquitous in America, they are known to Chinese only through scenes in Hollywood movies.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When the restaurant staff saw them for the first time, they were so excited, they took photos. Then, with \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/tags/171457556/chinese-new-year\">Lunar New Year\u003c/a> approaching, they loaded up some boxes and fortune cookies and took them home to show their families. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"info": "What kind of no sabo word is Hyphenación? For us, it’s about living within a hyphenation. Like being a third-gen Mexican-American from the Texas border now living that Bay Area Chicano life. Like Xorje! Each week we bring together a couple of hyphenated Latinos to talk all about personal life choices: family, careers, relationships, belonging … everything is on the table. ",
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"marketplace": {
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"info": "Our flagship program, helmed by Kai Ryssdal, examines what the day in money delivered, through stories, conversations, newsworthy numbers and more. Updated Monday through Friday at about 3:30 p.m. PT.",
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},
"mindshift": {
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"info": "The MindShift podcast explores the innovations in education that are shaping how kids learn. Hosts Ki Sung and Katrina Schwartz introduce listeners to educators, researchers, parents and students who are developing effective ways to improve how kids learn. We cover topics like how fed-up administrators are developing surprising tactics to deal with classroom disruptions; how listening to podcasts are helping kids develop reading skills; the consequences of overparenting; and why interdisciplinary learning can engage students on all ends of the traditional achievement spectrum. This podcast is part of the MindShift education site, a division of KQED News. KQED is an NPR/PBS member station based in San Francisco. You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>",
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"order": 12
},
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM1NzY0NjAwNDI5",
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"morning-edition": {
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"onourwatch": {
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"tagline": "Deeply-reported investigative journalism",
"info": "For decades, the process for how police police themselves has been inconsistent – if not opaque. In some states, like California, these proceedings were completely hidden. After a new police transparency law unsealed scores of internal affairs files, our reporters set out to examine these cases and the shadow world of police discipline. On Our Watch brings listeners into the rooms where officers are questioned and witnesses are interrogated to find out who this system is really protecting. Is it the officers, or the public they've sworn to serve?",
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"on-the-media": {
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"info": "Our weekly podcast explores how the media 'sausage' is made, casts an incisive eye on fluctuations in the marketplace of ideas, and examines threats to the freedom of information and expression in America and abroad. For one hour a week, the show tries to lift the veil from the process of \"making media,\" especially news media, because it's through that lens that we see the world and the world sees us",
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},
"pbs-newshour": {
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},
"perspectives": {
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"order": 14
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"info": "The economy explained. Imagine you could call up a friend and say, Meet me at the bar and tell me what's going on with the economy. Now imagine that's actually a fun evening.",
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"politicalbreakdown": {
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"title": "Political Breakdown",
"tagline": "Politics from a personal perspective",
"info": "Political Breakdown is a new series that explores the political intersection of California and the nation. Each week hosts Scott Shafer and Marisa Lagos are joined with a new special guest to unpack politics -- with personality — and offer an insider’s glimpse at how politics happens.",
"airtime": "THU 6:30pm-7pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Political-Breakdown-2024-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
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"order": 5
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"possible": {
"id": "possible",
"title": "Possible",
"info": "Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.",
"airtime": "SUN 2pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Possible-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.possible.fm/",
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"source": "Possible"
},
"link": "/radio/program/possible",
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"spotify": "https://open.spotify.com/show/730YpdUSNlMyPQwNnyjp4k"
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},
"pri-the-world": {
"id": "pri-the-world",
"title": "PRI's The World: Latest Edition",
"info": "Each weekday, host Marco Werman and his team of producers bring you the world's most interesting stories in an hour of radio that reminds us just how small our planet really is.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 2pm-3pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/The-World-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
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},
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},
"radiolab": {
"id": "radiolab",
"title": "Radiolab",
"info": "A two-time Peabody Award-winner, Radiolab is an investigation told through sounds and stories, and centered around one big idea. In the Radiolab world, information sounds like music and science and culture collide. Hosted by Jad Abumrad and Robert Krulwich, the show is designed for listeners who demand skepticism, but appreciate wonder. WNYC Studios is the producer of other leading podcasts including Freakonomics Radio, Death, Sex & Money, On the Media and many more.",
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