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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/books/titles/177493377/cooked-a-natural-history-of-transformation\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/cooked-bookcover-191x290.jpg\" alt=\"Cooked - A Natural History of Transformation. by Michael Pollan\" width=\"191\" height=\"290\" class=\"alignleft size-medium wp-image-60467\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Post by NPR Staff, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2013/04/21/177501735/fire-water-air-earth-michael-pollan-gets-elemental-in-cooked\">NPR Books - Author Interviews\u003c/a> (4/21/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2013/04/21/177501735/fire-water-air-earth-michael-pollan-gets-elemental-in-cooked\">Weekend Edition Sunday\u003c/a> [audio src=\"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/wesun/2013/04/20130421_wesun_09.mp3\"] \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In his systematic scrutiny of the modern American food chain, Michael Pollan has explored everything from the evolution of edible plants to the industrial agricultural complex. In his newest book, he charts territory closer to home — or rather, \u003cem>at\u003c/em> home, in his kitchen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Cooked: A Natural History of Transformation\u003c/em> surveys how the four classical elements — fire, water, air and earth — transform plants and animals into food. Pollan joins NPR's Rachel Martin to discuss the merits of slow home cooking and his adventures in fermentation.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>Interview Highlights\u003c/h3>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60468\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/michael-pollan.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/michael-pollan-290x217.jpg\" alt=\"Michael Pollan is the author of five books, including The Botany of Desire, The Omnivore's Dilemma and In Defense of Food. A longtime contributing writer to The New York Times Magazine, Pollan is also the Knight Professor of Journalism at the University of California, Berkeley. Photo: Fran Collin/Penguin Press\" width=\"290\" height=\"217\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-60468\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Michael Pollan is the author of five books, including \u003cem>The Botany of Desire,\u003c/em> \u003cem>The Omnivore's Dilemma\u003c/em> and \u003cem>In Defense of Food\u003c/em>. A longtime contributing writer to \u003cem>The New York Times Magazine\u003c/em>, Pollan is also the Knight Professor of Journalism at the University of California, Berkeley.\u003cbr>Photo: Fran Collin/Penguin Press\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On the central transformations in cooking\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"I discovered that there are four central transformations that all cooking can be divided into. One is fire, the most elemental; the other is water, cooking in pots; then you've got air, which is baking, and other ways we aerate our food — very significant; and then there's earth, and earth is really fermentation, because it's cooking without the use of heat and strictly with microbes, many of which come from the earth. And I basically apprenticed myself to a master in each of those transformations.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On how cooking left the kitchen\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"We kind of assume that women went back to work and there was no time to make a family meal. But it isn't that simple and it's a lot more interesting. The corporations were knocking on that door for almost 100 years. And after World War II, when they had invented all these technologies for processing food and making it shelf stable and simulating real foods with fake foods, they really pushed. And they found their opportunity with the feminist revolution beginning in the '70s. There was this really uncomfortable conversation taking place at kitchen tables all across America. Men and women were trying to renegotiate the division of labor in the household. And then the food industry recognized they had an opportunity. And they said 'Don't worry about it, we've got you covered. We'll do the cooking.' And KFC even took out a billboard with a big bucket of fried chicken and the slogan, 'Women's Liberation.'\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"So I really think we need to go back and finish that difficult conversation. And I've had it, you know, with my wife, over who does what in the house, and bring men back into the kitchen. And children, which I think is really, really important ... I think the most important thing we can teach our kids for their long-term health and happiness is how to cook.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On the fallacy of convenience\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"Some of the foods that hold themselves out to you as supremely convenient, like those microwaveable single-portion entrees in the supermarket? I did an experiment with those. We had what we called 'Microwave Night,' where we all got to buy one of those, you know, fast-food-in-a-frozen-bag things that they now have in the supermarket. And guess what? It took 40 minutes to get that meal on the table. Because the microwave is individualistic. You can only microwave one person's entrée at a time. And you're not sharing. And there's something magical that happens when people eat from the same pot. The family meal is really the nursery of democracy. It's where we learn to share, it's where we learn to argue without offending. It's just too critical to let go, as we've been so blithely doing.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On bonding with your kids over cooking\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"[My teenage son] loved doing his homework at the island in the middle of the kitchen. And he would work while I was cooking, and he took in the smells, and he'd come over every now and then and taste what was in the pot and offer some unsolicited seasoning advice ... And the best time to connect with a teenager is when other things are going on, when you're not trying to have a face-to-face, when you're not making eye contact, basically. And so while he was doing homework and I was cooking, we had some of our sweetest times together. And then of course there was the meal.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On the resurgence and process of fermentation\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"Fermentation is hot. Who would've thought that kimchi and sauerkraut would be trendy? [Fermentation] is essentially rot that we're kind of guiding. We can't totally control it, but we can guide it. And this, I found, was the most fascinating work I did. I mean, here you cut up a cabbage, and you salt it, and you just, you know, bruise it with your hands and you put it in a crock. And then it automatically cooks. There are already just the right bacteria living on the leaves of those cabbages, that they will, without any heat, transform that food into something more flavorful, more nutritious, more beautiful in every way.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On an unexpected 'transformation'\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"I definitely spend more time cooking. I just make time for it. You know, we live in a very mediated life right now. We spend our lives in front of screens, and cooking is one of the best antidotes. And it's a democratic pleasure — all of us can do it ... This is a book about transformations, and I thought it was all about transformations of nature, but in the end it became a transformation of me, too.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/books/titles/177493377/cooked-a-natural-history-of-transformation\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/cooked-bookcover-191x290.jpg\" alt=\"Cooked - A Natural History of Transformation. by Michael Pollan\" width=\"191\" height=\"290\" class=\"alignleft size-medium wp-image-60467\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Post by NPR Staff, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2013/04/21/177501735/fire-water-air-earth-michael-pollan-gets-elemental-in-cooked\">NPR Books - Author Interviews\u003c/a> (4/21/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2013/04/21/177501735/fire-water-air-earth-michael-pollan-gets-elemental-in-cooked\">Weekend Edition Sunday\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In his systematic scrutiny of the modern American food chain, Michael Pollan has explored everything from the evolution of edible plants to the industrial agricultural complex. In his newest book, he charts territory closer to home — or rather, \u003cem>at\u003c/em> home, in his kitchen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Cooked: A Natural History of Transformation\u003c/em> surveys how the four classical elements — fire, water, air and earth — transform plants and animals into food. Pollan joins NPR's Rachel Martin to discuss the merits of slow home cooking and his adventures in fermentation.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>Interview Highlights\u003c/h3>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60468\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/michael-pollan.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/michael-pollan-290x217.jpg\" alt=\"Michael Pollan is the author of five books, including The Botany of Desire, The Omnivore's Dilemma and In Defense of Food. A longtime contributing writer to The New York Times Magazine, Pollan is also the Knight Professor of Journalism at the University of California, Berkeley. Photo: Fran Collin/Penguin Press\" width=\"290\" height=\"217\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-60468\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Michael Pollan is the author of five books, including \u003cem>The Botany of Desire,\u003c/em> \u003cem>The Omnivore's Dilemma\u003c/em> and \u003cem>In Defense of Food\u003c/em>. A longtime contributing writer to \u003cem>The New York Times Magazine\u003c/em>, Pollan is also the Knight Professor of Journalism at the University of California, Berkeley.\u003cbr>Photo: Fran Collin/Penguin Press\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On the central transformations in cooking\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"I discovered that there are four central transformations that all cooking can be divided into. One is fire, the most elemental; the other is water, cooking in pots; then you've got air, which is baking, and other ways we aerate our food — very significant; and then there's earth, and earth is really fermentation, because it's cooking without the use of heat and strictly with microbes, many of which come from the earth. And I basically apprenticed myself to a master in each of those transformations.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On how cooking left the kitchen\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"We kind of assume that women went back to work and there was no time to make a family meal. But it isn't that simple and it's a lot more interesting. The corporations were knocking on that door for almost 100 years. And after World War II, when they had invented all these technologies for processing food and making it shelf stable and simulating real foods with fake foods, they really pushed. And they found their opportunity with the feminist revolution beginning in the '70s. There was this really uncomfortable conversation taking place at kitchen tables all across America. Men and women were trying to renegotiate the division of labor in the household. And then the food industry recognized they had an opportunity. And they said 'Don't worry about it, we've got you covered. We'll do the cooking.' And KFC even took out a billboard with a big bucket of fried chicken and the slogan, 'Women's Liberation.'\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"So I really think we need to go back and finish that difficult conversation. And I've had it, you know, with my wife, over who does what in the house, and bring men back into the kitchen. And children, which I think is really, really important ... I think the most important thing we can teach our kids for their long-term health and happiness is how to cook.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On the fallacy of convenience\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"Some of the foods that hold themselves out to you as supremely convenient, like those microwaveable single-portion entrees in the supermarket? I did an experiment with those. We had what we called 'Microwave Night,' where we all got to buy one of those, you know, fast-food-in-a-frozen-bag things that they now have in the supermarket. And guess what? It took 40 minutes to get that meal on the table. Because the microwave is individualistic. You can only microwave one person's entrée at a time. And you're not sharing. And there's something magical that happens when people eat from the same pot. The family meal is really the nursery of democracy. It's where we learn to share, it's where we learn to argue without offending. It's just too critical to let go, as we've been so blithely doing.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On bonding with your kids over cooking\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"[My teenage son] loved doing his homework at the island in the middle of the kitchen. And he would work while I was cooking, and he took in the smells, and he'd come over every now and then and taste what was in the pot and offer some unsolicited seasoning advice ... And the best time to connect with a teenager is when other things are going on, when you're not trying to have a face-to-face, when you're not making eye contact, basically. And so while he was doing homework and I was cooking, we had some of our sweetest times together. And then of course there was the meal.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On the resurgence and process of fermentation\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"Fermentation is hot. Who would've thought that kimchi and sauerkraut would be trendy? [Fermentation] is essentially rot that we're kind of guiding. We can't totally control it, but we can guide it. And this, I found, was the most fascinating work I did. I mean, here you cut up a cabbage, and you salt it, and you just, you know, bruise it with your hands and you put it in a crock. And then it automatically cooks. There are already just the right bacteria living on the leaves of those cabbages, that they will, without any heat, transform that food into something more flavorful, more nutritious, more beautiful in every way.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On an unexpected 'transformation'\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"I definitely spend more time cooking. I just make time for it. You know, we live in a very mediated life right now. We spend our lives in front of screens, and cooking is one of the best antidotes. And it's a democratic pleasure — all of us can do it ... This is a book about transformations, and I thought it was all about transformations of nature, but in the end it became a transformation of me, too.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "How Coffee Brings The World Together",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/001guatemala-story-006-642bc9c7d88f7d66fea7c12828ee8e7cb79d991f.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/001guatemala-story-006-642bc9c7d88f7d66fea7c12828ee8e7cb79d991f-190x133.jpg\" alt=\"The best coffee comes from high altitudes with a warm climate like in Huehuetenango, Guatemala.\" width=\"190\" height=\"133\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-60421\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/00283491757-b066156b824d5e7c38c58218cfb2a57f6a173e74.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/00283491757-b066156b824d5e7c38c58218cfb2a57f6a173e74-190x133.jpg\" alt=\"Farmers gather coffee beans in Yunnan province, China.\" width=\"190\" height=\"133\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-60426\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/003gettyimages_94646588_slide-6af1f8ba0a720d2c2864ede364b1e67ebab6b419.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/003gettyimages_94646588_slide-6af1f8ba0a720d2c2864ede364b1e67ebab6b419-190x133.jpg\" alt=\"Workers separate beans in the coffee warehouse in Girbey village in Yergachefe, Gedo zone, Ethiopia, on Friday, Dec. 7, 2007. Beyene works 8 hours a day for 6 Ethiopian birr. Every day the world consumes over 1 billion cups of coffee, generating $80 billion in annual retail sales. That makes it the most valuable traded commodity after oil. Of this, coffee growers make on average 3 cents on every $3 latte bought. Photographer: Michael Tsegaye/Bloomberg News\" width=\"190\" height=\"133\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-60422\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/00451424381-189f5cee6b413bd2bfa2b620501c0475d2279efe.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/00451424381-189f5cee6b413bd2bfa2b620501c0475d2279efe-190x133.jpg\" alt=\"Workers clean coffee beans at the Los Ausoles coffee plantation in Ahuachapan, El Salvador. Global exports of green coffee beans are worth $15 billion a year.\" width=\"190\" height=\"133\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-60427\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/005ap9311180146_slide-82009f981fcc9805007d359d7588f3435fc7ebbb.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/005ap9311180146_slide-82009f981fcc9805007d359d7588f3435fc7ebbb-190x133.jpg\" alt=\"A woman rakes coffee beans that are drying at a coffee plant in Matagalpa, Nicaragua. Coffee is the country's top export.\" width=\"190\" height=\"133\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-60423\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/006gettyimages_111999393-15545cc0f9481a9de97312cf23500130d9d72a25.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/006gettyimages_111999393-15545cc0f9481a9de97312cf23500130d9d72a25-190x133.jpg\" alt=\"Forty percent of all coffee comes from Brazil. Here, coffee plantation workers pour sun-dried coffee beans into burlap sacks in Minas Gerais.\" width=\"190\" height=\"133\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-60424\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/007150303478-2bb487baaca099d0b50b6680da9f3383fe567e02.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/007150303478-2bb487baaca099d0b50b6680da9f3383fe567e02-190x133.jpg\" alt=\"Vietnamese farmers grow a species of coffee tree called robusta. It grows fast and produces a big crop, but the bean has a bitter taste. Pictured is a coffee shop in Hanoi, Vietnam.\" width=\"190\" height=\"133\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-60428\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/008q1indonesia_slide-671a0f1609e00a9e3eef76a0b64addde844c8512.jpe\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/008q1indonesia_slide-671a0f1609e00a9e3eef76a0b64addde844c8512-190x133.jpe\" alt='An Indonesian \"Starbikes\" vendor prepares coffee from his bicycle for street laborers in Jakarta.' width=\"190\" height=\"133\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-60425\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Post by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/143160021/daniel-charles\">Dan Charles\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/04/22/177975138/how-coffee-brings-the-world-together\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (4/22/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/04/22/177975138/how-coffee-brings-the-world-together\">Morning Edition\u003c/a> [audio src=\"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2013/04/20130422_me_03.mp3\"] \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Coffee is more than a drink. For many of us — OK, for me — it's woven into the fabric of every day.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It also connects us to far corners of the globe.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For instance, every Friday, a truck pulls up to the warehouse of \u003ca href=\"http://counterculturecoffee.com/\">Counter Culture Coffee\u003c/a>, a small roaster and coffee distributor in Durham, N.C., and unloads a bunch of heavy burlap sacks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On any random day, that truck could bring \"10 bags from a farm in El Salvador; 20 bags from a cooperative in Burundi; two bags of a special coffee from Guatemala,\" says Kim Elena Ionescu, one of the coffee buyers for Counter Culture Coffee. She travels the world, visiting coffee farms and deciding which beans the company will buy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The best coffee, she says, comes from high altitudes, but you cannot grow it in places that freeze, \"so you need that mixture of high altitude and warm climate, which makes the tropics the place to grow it.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All across Latin America, Africa and Southeast Asia, people \u003ca href=\"http://www.targetmap.com/viewer.aspx?reportId=3033\">grow coffee\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In many tropical countries, especially poor ones, it's a pillar of the economy; \u003ca href=\"http://www.ico.org/prices/po.htm\">exports\u003c/a> of green coffee beans, globally, are worth $15 billion a year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some of these farms, Ionescu says, are idyllic places, high in the mountains. Taller trees often shade the coffee bushes. Such scenes \"hearken a little bit to coffee's homeland, which is Ethiopia,\" Ionescu says. \"Southwestern Ethiopia is really lush, it's got amazingly high altitudes, it's green, misty.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But honestly, even though there are millions of small, idyllic coffee farms, they aren't producing the majority of the world's coffee.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Most coffee isn't specialty coffee. It's just coffee: big cans of it, or instant coffee.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Forty percent of all coffee comes from Brazil, and the typical coffee farm in Brazil looks more like a corn farm in Iowa, Ionescu says — \"coffee plants as far as the eye can see, unbroken by any kind of tree.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When it's time for harvest in Brazil, big machines roll through and strip off the cherrylike coffee fruit, with its valuable bean inside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The second-biggest producer in the world is a surprise for many people: Vietnam. \"Not a lot of people, especially in specialty coffee, talk about Vietnam,\" says Ionescu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Vietnamese farmers grow a species of coffee tree called robusta. (The scientific name is \u003cem>Coffea canephora.)\u003c/em> It grows fast and produces a big crop, but the bean has a bitter taste. It's often used in blends, especially in Europe. But high-end coffee producers like Counter Culture avoid it. They stick to another species — arabica.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is one big divide in the coffee business. On one side is \"commodity\" coffee; on the other, small companies like Counter Culture Coffee, or even big ones like Starbucks or Green Mountain Coffee Roasters, which sell coffee that's been more carefully harvested and graded. These companies market coffee \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2012/08/16/158932704/coffee-is-the-new-wine-heres-how-you-taste-it\">almost like wine\u003c/a>, labeling where it came from and how it tastes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At Green Mountain's headquarters in Waterbury, Vt., tasters suck in mouthfuls of fresh brew, pause to reflect, then give each sample a score and talk about what their supersensitive taste buds picked up. \"Chocolate, melon, lime, subtle peach,\" says one taster.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Specialty coffee like this accounts for only a small part — probably 10 or 15 percent — of the global coffee market.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sometimes, these two sides of the coffee business seem to live in different worlds. But Counter Culture Coffee's Ionescu says they sometimes come together in surprising ways.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You know, what's interesting to me is the large proportion of coffee growers who drink instant coffee, even on some of these idyllic hillsides in Central America,\" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Instead of drinking their own top-quality coffee, they export it to people who can pay more for it, such as Europeans or Americans.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lindsey Bolger, director of coffee for Green Mountain Coffee Roasters, says if you measure the \u003ca href=\"http://chartsbin.com/view/581\">amount of coffee consumed\u003c/a> per coffee drinker, the world champions live in Nordic countries. \"Depending on which country, they're up to eight cups of coffee per person, per day. In the U.S., we're at maybe 2 or 2.5 cups of coffee per day,\" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Americans actually used to drink a lot more coffee. Per person, we drank almost twice as much during World War II.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>People used to divide the coffee world neatly into producers, like Brazil, and consuming countries in Western Europe and North America.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bolger says those clear lines are getting blurred. Brazil could soon overtake the United States to become the world's single biggest coffee-consuming country, she says, and \"we're seeing significant growth in consumption in regions like Southeast Asia, South Korea, Eastern Europe, India and the Gulf nations.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The coffee experience, it seems, is more global than ever.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This is the first in a series of reports for Coffee Week. Along with our friends at \u003c/em>Morning Edition,\u003cem> we're bringing you the stories behind the coffee in your cup — from the farms of Guatemala to the corner coffee shop. \u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Related Quiz at NPR:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/04/22/178092000/coffee-quiz-discover-the-world-in-a-cup-of-joe\">Coffee Quiz: Discover The World In A Cup Of Joe\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Coffee is social stimulant, solitary pleasure, intellectual catalyst. It also connects us to far corners of the globe. From small specialty farms in Guatemala to large, industrial operations in Brazil and unexpected corners of the world, like Vietnam, the world's morning cup of joe makes quite a journey.",
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Beyene works 8 hours a day for 6 Ethiopian birr. Every day the world consumes over 1 billion cups of coffee, generating $80 billion in annual retail sales. That makes it the most valuable traded commodity after oil. Of this, coffee growers make on average 3 cents on every $3 latte bought. Photographer: Michael Tsegaye/Bloomberg News\" width=\"190\" height=\"133\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-60422\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/00451424381-189f5cee6b413bd2bfa2b620501c0475d2279efe.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/00451424381-189f5cee6b413bd2bfa2b620501c0475d2279efe-190x133.jpg\" alt=\"Workers clean coffee beans at the Los Ausoles coffee plantation in Ahuachapan, El Salvador. Global exports of green coffee beans are worth $15 billion a year.\" width=\"190\" height=\"133\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-60427\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/005ap9311180146_slide-82009f981fcc9805007d359d7588f3435fc7ebbb.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/005ap9311180146_slide-82009f981fcc9805007d359d7588f3435fc7ebbb-190x133.jpg\" alt=\"A woman rakes coffee beans that are drying at a coffee plant in Matagalpa, Nicaragua. Coffee is the country's top export.\" width=\"190\" height=\"133\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-60423\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/006gettyimages_111999393-15545cc0f9481a9de97312cf23500130d9d72a25.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/006gettyimages_111999393-15545cc0f9481a9de97312cf23500130d9d72a25-190x133.jpg\" alt=\"Forty percent of all coffee comes from Brazil. Here, coffee plantation workers pour sun-dried coffee beans into burlap sacks in Minas Gerais.\" width=\"190\" height=\"133\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-60424\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/007150303478-2bb487baaca099d0b50b6680da9f3383fe567e02.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/007150303478-2bb487baaca099d0b50b6680da9f3383fe567e02-190x133.jpg\" alt=\"Vietnamese farmers grow a species of coffee tree called robusta. It grows fast and produces a big crop, but the bean has a bitter taste. Pictured is a coffee shop in Hanoi, Vietnam.\" width=\"190\" height=\"133\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-60428\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/008q1indonesia_slide-671a0f1609e00a9e3eef76a0b64addde844c8512.jpe\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/008q1indonesia_slide-671a0f1609e00a9e3eef76a0b64addde844c8512-190x133.jpe\" alt='An Indonesian \"Starbikes\" vendor prepares coffee from his bicycle for street laborers in Jakarta.' width=\"190\" height=\"133\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-60425\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Post by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/143160021/daniel-charles\">Dan Charles\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/04/22/177975138/how-coffee-brings-the-world-together\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (4/22/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/04/22/177975138/how-coffee-brings-the-world-together\">Morning Edition\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Coffee is more than a drink. For many of us — OK, for me — it's woven into the fabric of every day.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It also connects us to far corners of the globe.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For instance, every Friday, a truck pulls up to the warehouse of \u003ca href=\"http://counterculturecoffee.com/\">Counter Culture Coffee\u003c/a>, a small roaster and coffee distributor in Durham, N.C., and unloads a bunch of heavy burlap sacks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On any random day, that truck could bring \"10 bags from a farm in El Salvador; 20 bags from a cooperative in Burundi; two bags of a special coffee from Guatemala,\" says Kim Elena Ionescu, one of the coffee buyers for Counter Culture Coffee. She travels the world, visiting coffee farms and deciding which beans the company will buy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The best coffee, she says, comes from high altitudes, but you cannot grow it in places that freeze, \"so you need that mixture of high altitude and warm climate, which makes the tropics the place to grow it.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All across Latin America, Africa and Southeast Asia, people \u003ca href=\"http://www.targetmap.com/viewer.aspx?reportId=3033\">grow coffee\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In many tropical countries, especially poor ones, it's a pillar of the economy; \u003ca href=\"http://www.ico.org/prices/po.htm\">exports\u003c/a> of green coffee beans, globally, are worth $15 billion a year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some of these farms, Ionescu says, are idyllic places, high in the mountains. Taller trees often shade the coffee bushes. Such scenes \"hearken a little bit to coffee's homeland, which is Ethiopia,\" Ionescu says. \"Southwestern Ethiopia is really lush, it's got amazingly high altitudes, it's green, misty.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But honestly, even though there are millions of small, idyllic coffee farms, they aren't producing the majority of the world's coffee.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Most coffee isn't specialty coffee. It's just coffee: big cans of it, or instant coffee.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Forty percent of all coffee comes from Brazil, and the typical coffee farm in Brazil looks more like a corn farm in Iowa, Ionescu says — \"coffee plants as far as the eye can see, unbroken by any kind of tree.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When it's time for harvest in Brazil, big machines roll through and strip off the cherrylike coffee fruit, with its valuable bean inside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The second-biggest producer in the world is a surprise for many people: Vietnam. \"Not a lot of people, especially in specialty coffee, talk about Vietnam,\" says Ionescu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Vietnamese farmers grow a species of coffee tree called robusta. (The scientific name is \u003cem>Coffea canephora.)\u003c/em> It grows fast and produces a big crop, but the bean has a bitter taste. It's often used in blends, especially in Europe. But high-end coffee producers like Counter Culture avoid it. They stick to another species — arabica.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is one big divide in the coffee business. On one side is \"commodity\" coffee; on the other, small companies like Counter Culture Coffee, or even big ones like Starbucks or Green Mountain Coffee Roasters, which sell coffee that's been more carefully harvested and graded. These companies market coffee \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2012/08/16/158932704/coffee-is-the-new-wine-heres-how-you-taste-it\">almost like wine\u003c/a>, labeling where it came from and how it tastes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At Green Mountain's headquarters in Waterbury, Vt., tasters suck in mouthfuls of fresh brew, pause to reflect, then give each sample a score and talk about what their supersensitive taste buds picked up. \"Chocolate, melon, lime, subtle peach,\" says one taster.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Specialty coffee like this accounts for only a small part — probably 10 or 15 percent — of the global coffee market.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sometimes, these two sides of the coffee business seem to live in different worlds. But Counter Culture Coffee's Ionescu says they sometimes come together in surprising ways.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You know, what's interesting to me is the large proportion of coffee growers who drink instant coffee, even on some of these idyllic hillsides in Central America,\" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Instead of drinking their own top-quality coffee, they export it to people who can pay more for it, such as Europeans or Americans.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lindsey Bolger, director of coffee for Green Mountain Coffee Roasters, says if you measure the \u003ca href=\"http://chartsbin.com/view/581\">amount of coffee consumed\u003c/a> per coffee drinker, the world champions live in Nordic countries. \"Depending on which country, they're up to eight cups of coffee per person, per day. In the U.S., we're at maybe 2 or 2.5 cups of coffee per day,\" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Americans actually used to drink a lot more coffee. Per person, we drank almost twice as much during World War II.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>People used to divide the coffee world neatly into producers, like Brazil, and consuming countries in Western Europe and North America.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bolger says those clear lines are getting blurred. Brazil could soon overtake the United States to become the world's single biggest coffee-consuming country, she says, and \"we're seeing significant growth in consumption in regions like Southeast Asia, South Korea, Eastern Europe, India and the Gulf nations.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The coffee experience, it seems, is more global than ever.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This is the first in a series of reports for Coffee Week. Along with our friends at \u003c/em>Morning Edition,\u003cem> we're bringing you the stories behind the coffee in your cup — from the farms of Guatemala to the corner coffee shop. \u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Related Quiz at NPR:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/04/22/178092000/coffee-quiz-discover-the-world-in-a-cup-of-joe\">Coffee Quiz: Discover The World In A Cup Of Joe\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "A 'Charleston Kitchen' Full Of Foraged And Forgotten Foods",
"title": "A 'Charleston Kitchen' Full Of Foraged And Forgotten Foods",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60344\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Lee-brothers.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Lee-brothers-1024x576.jpg\" alt=\"Matt Lee (left) and Ted Lee (right) grew up in Charleston, S.C. After leaving the South as young adults, they founded a mail-order food company, The Lee Bros. Boiled Peanut Catalogue. They have written two previous cookbooks of Southern cuisine. Photo: Squire Fox/Clarkson Potter\" width=\"1024\" height=\"576\" class=\"size-large wp-image-60344\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Matt Lee (left) and Ted Lee (right) grew up in Charleston, S.C. After leaving the South as young adults, they founded a mail-order food company, The Lee Bros. Boiled Peanut Catalogue. They have written two previous cookbooks of Southern cuisine. Photo: Squire Fox/Clarkson Potter\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2013/04/18/177367797/a-charleston-kitchen-full-of-foraged-and-forgotten-foods\">All Things Considered\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n [audio src=\"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/atc/2013/04/20130418_atc_15.mp3\"] \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Post by NPR Staff, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2013/04/18/177367797/a-charleston-kitchen-full-of-foraged-and-forgotten-foods\">NPR Food\u003c/a> (4/18/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A new cookbook by the Lee brothers just might inspire daydreams of a food-centric vacation to South Carolina. It's called \u003cem>The Lee Bros. Charleston Kitchen\u003c/em>, and in it, Matt and Ted Lee feature recipes and stories from the Southern port city they grew up in. The brothers joined NPR's Melissa Block to talk about Charleston's distinctive food culture, starting with the dishes that they'd put on a typical Charleston menu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I would start with kumquat sparklers, with the flavor of backyard kumquats, which are like tangerines,\" Matt says. \"Also, classic Charleston cheese biscuits with a single pecan pressed into it, and savory benne wafers — sesame seed wafers.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/books/titles/177362137/the-lee-bros-charleston-kitchen\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/lee-brothers-bookcover.jpg\" alt=\"The Lee Bros. Charleston Kitchen\" width=\"300\" height=\"314\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-60345\">\u003c/a>For the second course, Ted says, \"we'd do a she-crab soup, and then we'd do a shrimp and grits,\" he says. \"For vegetables, I think this is the perfect time to do chainey briar; it's growing really well out on Sullivan's Island. We'd do some \u003ca href=\"#briar\">Grilled Chainey Briar\u003c/a>.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Chainey briar is a native weed or vine,\" Ted explains. \"It's \u003cem>Smilax\u003c/em> botanically. It's something that grows on fence lines, it grows on sand dunes at the beaches and it has, in the spring right about now, a tender tip, a shoot that is delicious.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It looks, quite frankly, like a weed, and might be a bit of an acquired taste — but the brothers say it's worth acquiring. \"It's pretty rangy, and that's the appeal, in terms of flavor,\" Matt says. It tastes like asparagus but with this extra sort of reckless green thing. Sometimes we describe it as tasting like asparagus with olive oil already on it.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For dessert, the brothers would serve \u003ca href=\"#torte\">Huguenot Torte\u003c/a>, an iconic Charleston dish. \"Hugeonot torte has this nice meringue-like crisp top, but then a sludgy caramel and apple and pecan bottom to it,\" Matt says. \"It's got flour but tons of leavening — so it just puffs up in the oven, then collapses and creates this very interesting and uniquely Charleston dessert.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Southern Food With Less Pork And More Loquats\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Lee brothers, who were born in New York but grew up in Charleston, have written two previous cookbooks highlighting Southern cuisine. This is their first to focus just on the city of their youth, and their choice is more than just hometown favoritism: Charleston's culinary tradition is unusual, with dishes and traditions you won't find in other parts of the South.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's naturally about the seafood and also about the poultry,\" Matt explains. \"The much-heralded, like, 'porkopolis' of the South doesn't really exist so much in Charleston, because it was never a place to raise cattle or pigs, being so marshy.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's not just the meat that makes Charleston stand out; there's also a rich variety of local produce. \"I think another thing that visitors to Charleston are surprised by is just how close the farms are — the rural part of Charleston — to the city,\" Ted says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You might not even need to find a farmer to get fresh food. \"Even downtown — we grew up downtown in the historic district — we're surrounded by fruits of all kinds, like kumquats, loquats, mulberries, figs, pomegranates, bananas, citrus,\" Ted says. \"They all grow downtown, and you grow up sort of knowing where the trees are and which ones taste best.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Call it \"foraging\" or call it \"stealing,\" snagging fruit off someone else's tree is certainly possible in Charleston. \"There are a lot of secrets in back alleys in Charleston that yield great fruits and herbs.\" The trick to harvesting that bounty without ruining your neighborly relations? \"Be very polite,\" Ted says — and, Matt adds, be sure to smile. \"That's awfully disarming,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Taking Cues From The Past\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In addition to highlighting Charleston's current food culture, Matt and Ted Lee also looked to Charleston's history to find old recipes that might have been forgotten. Cookbooks from the 19th century were particularly inspiring, Ted says. \"They tell a story so diverse and varied about the different types of vegetables that were grown in the low country, some of which are rarely found, like salsify, tania — it's a root vegetable,\" he says. \"It's nice to be able to draw from the past to inform your kitchen in the present.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One recipe in the new cookbook comes from an even more distant past — a dessert from the 1700s called \u003ca href=\"#syllabub\">Syllabub\u003c/a>. \"Despite the fact that it appears in all the old cookbooks, Matt and I have never been served it — either in a Charleston restaurant or a Charleston home,\" Ted says. \"So we just tried it ourselves. It's basically very simple — it's fortified wine that's been seasoned with lemon juice and lemon peel, a little bit of sugar, sometimes spices, and whipped with cream until it's sort of this airy, fluffy, alcoholic whipped cream that goes really well with fruit.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you want to follow Matt and Ted and take a stab at Syllabub, a recipe is below, as well as recipes for Huguenot Torte and Grilled Chainey Briar. But be warned: You might need to plan a trip to Charleston to enjoy that chainey briar. You won't find it in grocery stores or farmers markets, and will have better luck harvesting it yourself. Like fresh kumquats off the tree or oysters from the ocean, it's a location-bound delicacy. As Matt Lee, who lives in Charleston today, puts it, \"it's just one of those things that you have to live here to really appreciate.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"briar\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Grilled Chainey Briar\u003c/h3>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60346\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/lee-brothers-chaineybriar.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/lee-brothers-chaineybriar-290x290.jpg\" alt=\"Chainey briar grows wild around Charleston, S.C. Photo: Matt Lee and Ted Lee/Clarkson Potter\" width=\"290\" height=\"290\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-60346\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chainey briar grows wild around Charleston, S.C. Photo: Matt Lee and Ted Lee/Clarkson Potter\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Chainey briar is what Charlestonians of a certain age call the tender shoots of the smilax (aka cat briar) vine, which can be found growing in the dunes and along sandy fence lines throughout the area. The distinctive spade-shaped leaves distinguish smilax from other vines growing in the same terrain. When raw, chainey briar has a delicious asparagus-and-olive-oil flavor that is fresh and green; lightly cooked, it is even more appetizing and tender. Chainey briar appears most often in community cookbooks of the rural sea islands, like Edisto and Yonge's.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Most chainey briar found among the dunes or in metropolitan Charleston are thin, curly tendrils, although our friend Tom, who gentleman-farms on Johns Island, recently introduced us to \"bull briar,\" the thicker sprouts of mature smilax vines that grow in the forested areas of the sea islands. Bull briar, which truly resembles large asparagus, would seem to represent more vegetable for one's effort, but it is found so high in the trees that a pole pruner is usually required to harvest it. We're just as happy to spend the afternoon on a path to the beach, eating every third tendril we pick, until the basket is full.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chainey briar almost never appears in the farmer's markets, so you must forage for it yourself (or ingratiate yourself to farmer Sidi Limehouse [see page 94 of The Lee Bros. Charleston Kitchen], who will occasionally indulge good friends with a basketful). Its flavor is robust enough that it grills well, wilting and charring in places. Dressed with oil and lemon, it makes for an exciting side dish with pre-colonial roots.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 pound chainey briar\u003cbr>1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for the pan\u003cbr>Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper\u003cbr>2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Thoroughly wash the chainey briar, removing any ants or foreign matter and pinching off the stem ends (which will toughen as they age) so only the tender parts remain. Toss the chainey briar in a large bowl with the olive oil to coat, scatter 1/2 teaspoon salt over the bowl, and toss again.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Lightly oil a grill pan, and place it over high heat. When a drop of water sizzles when dropped on the pan, spread the chainey briar in an even layer about 1/2 inch high (you may have to grill multiple batches, depending on the size of your pan). Allow the chainey briar to sizzle and pop for a minute or two, until the tips of some begin to blacken. Use tongs to shuffle the chainey briar on the grill pan and allow them to cook a minute or two more, until almost all the fronds show signs of wilting. Reserve the chainey briar in a large covered bowl as you move on to grill another batch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. When all the chainey briar is wilted and charred, dress it with the lemon juice, toss lightly, and season to taste with salt and black pepper. Serve warm or at room temperature.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"torte\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Huguenot Torte\u003c/h3>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60347\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/lee-brothershuguenot-torte.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/lee-brothershuguenot-torte-290x290.jpg\" alt=\"Huguenot torte has gooey caramel beneath a crackly top Photo: Squire Fox/Clarkson Potter\" width=\"290\" height=\"290\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-60347\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Huguenot torte has gooey caramel beneath a crackly top Photo: Squire Fox/Clarkson Potter\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Serves: 6 to 8\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\u003cem>Time: 55 minutes, 10 minutes cooling\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Imagine that a blondie and an apple-pecan pie got into a crusty-gooey, sticky-delicious accident in a baking dish, and you'll approximate the ultra-decadence of this dessert. Until relatively recently, Charlestonians believed that this confection, as the title might suggest, came to Charleston with the French Huguenots, who settled in the city in the eighteenth century, and that it was a rustic cousin of elegant pâtisseries. But in the 1990s, the culinary historian and Lowcountry native John Martin Taylor tracked down the woman to whom the recipe is attributed in Charleston Receipts, and learned that she'd encountered the dish as \"Ozark Pudding\" while visiting relatives in Arkansas in the 1940s. She had brought the recipe back to Charleston, and put the dessert on the menu of the Huguenot Tavern, where she was a cook.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The fact that this dessert has become as much an icon of Charleston home cooking as Charleston Okra Soup [see page 74 of The Lee Bros. Charleston Kitchen] and She-Crab Soup [page 77] seems odd — but it's all part of \"Charleston's food pattern,\" as May A. Pyatt wrote in a 1950 review of Charleston Receipts in the News and Courier. Another interesting note: not many Charleston restaurants these days offer the torte — or even variants upon it — but it is almost always offered on menus at the tea rooms [see page 79] that open in the spring throughout the area. You should master it yourself; it's easy to make and easy to eat, and nice to have in your repertoire.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When we're serving this dish for guests, we often temper its sweetness by whipping a small amount of buttermilk or sour cream into the whipped cream garnish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>unsalted butter for greasing the dish\u003cbr>2 large eggs\u003cbr>1 1/3 cups sugar\u003cbr>1/4 cup all-purpose flour\u003cbr>2 1/2 teaspoons baking powder\u003cbr>1/4 teaspoon kosher salt\u003cbr>1 Granny Smith or other tart apple, cored, peeled, and diced (1 cup)\u003cbr>1 cup chopped pecans\u003cbr>1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract\u003cbr>1/2 cup heavy cream\u003cbr>2 tablespoons whole buttermilk or sour cream\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Preheat the oven to 325 degrees F. Grease a 2-quart baking dish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. In a large bowl, beat the eggs with a whisk until they're creamy and frothy. Add the sugar, flour, baking powder, salt, apple, pecans, and vanilla, whisking to combine after each addition.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Pour the batter into the prepared baking dish and bake for 45 minutes, or until the top of the torte is crusty. Remove the torte from the oven and let cool for about 10 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Whip the cream with the buttermilk until stiff peaks form. Cut into individual portions — they will be lumpen and misshapen, with shards of crust and spoonfuls of ooze, but no matter — and serve with dollops of the whipped cream.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"syllabub\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Syllabub With Rosemary-Glazed Figs\u003c/h3>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60343\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 666px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/lee-brothers-syllabub.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/lee-brothers-syllabub.jpg\" alt=\"Syllabub is a traditional dessert featuring sherry, cream and sugar. Photo: Squire Fox/Clarkson Potter\" width=\"666\" height=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-60343\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Syllabub is a traditional dessert featuring sherry, cream and sugar. Photo: Squire Fox/Clarkson Potter\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Serves: 4 \u003c/em>\u003cbr>\u003cem>Time: 1 hour 15 minutes, including chilling\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Syllabub\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup Sercial Madeira or Amontillado sherry\u003cbr>Peel of 1/2 lemon\u003cbr>1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice\u003cbr>1 1/2 tablespoons sugar\u003cbr>Pinch of kosher salt\u003cbr>1 cup heavy cream, cold\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Rosemary-glazed figs\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup sugar\u003cbr>2 (3-inch) long sprigs rosemary\u003cbr>Pinch of kosher salt\u003cbr>4 ounces fresh figs (about 4 large), stemmed and quartered\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Make the syllabub: Put all syllabub ingredients except for the cream into a large bowl, and whisk until the sugar has dissolved, about a minute. Let stand in the fridge, about 1 hour.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2.\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>Make the rosemary-glazed figs: Heat the sugar and 1/4 cup of water in a small saucepan over medium heat, stirring until the sugar dissolves. Add the rosemary and the salt, stir for about 30 seconds to dissolve the salt and bruise the rosemary, and turn off the heat. Cover and let cool to room temperature, about 20 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3\u003cstrong>. \u003c/strong>Put the figs in a small bowl, drizzle 2 to 3 tablespoons of the rosemary syrup over them, and toss gently to coat. (If the figs are less than ripe, let them stand in the syrup for 30 minutes to sweeten.) Reserve the remaining syrup for another use, such as sweetening lemonade.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Remove the lemon peel from the wine mixture. Pour the cream into the wine and whisk by hand until the cream is thick and holds its shape, about 2 minutes. Divide the syllabub among four wine glasses or sundae cups and spoon the rosemary-glazed figs over each serving.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Syllabub with Strawberries and Black Pepper\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For a springtime variation on Syllabub with Rosemary-Glazed Figs, make Syllabub with Strawberries and Black Pepper. Simply substitute for the rosemary-glazed figs 4 ounces strawberries that have been quartered and tossed a few times with sugar to taste (a teaspoon or two) until the sugar has dissolved. (Add a few drops water, if needed, to dissolve). Spoon the strawberries over each serving of Syllabub, then grind a bit of black pepper over the top of each and serve.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Recipes from \u003c/em>The Lee Bros. Charleston Cookbook\u003cem> by Matt Lee and Ted Lee. Copyright 2013 by Matt Lee and Ted Lee. Excerpted by permission of Clarkson Potter, an imprint of the Crown Publishing Group, a division of Random House. \u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>More on the Lee Bros.\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=125832027\">Classic Southern Food Gets A Makeover\u003c/a> (NPR Food)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=6650215\">Recipes That Passed a Cookbook Critic's Test\u003c/a> (Kitchen Window, NPR Food)\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60344\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Lee-brothers.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Lee-brothers-1024x576.jpg\" alt=\"Matt Lee (left) and Ted Lee (right) grew up in Charleston, S.C. After leaving the South as young adults, they founded a mail-order food company, The Lee Bros. Boiled Peanut Catalogue. They have written two previous cookbooks of Southern cuisine. Photo: Squire Fox/Clarkson Potter\" width=\"1024\" height=\"576\" class=\"size-large wp-image-60344\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Matt Lee (left) and Ted Lee (right) grew up in Charleston, S.C. After leaving the South as young adults, they founded a mail-order food company, The Lee Bros. Boiled Peanut Catalogue. They have written two previous cookbooks of Southern cuisine. Photo: Squire Fox/Clarkson Potter\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2013/04/18/177367797/a-charleston-kitchen-full-of-foraged-and-forgotten-foods\">All Things Considered\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n \u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Post by NPR Staff, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2013/04/18/177367797/a-charleston-kitchen-full-of-foraged-and-forgotten-foods\">NPR Food\u003c/a> (4/18/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A new cookbook by the Lee brothers just might inspire daydreams of a food-centric vacation to South Carolina. It's called \u003cem>The Lee Bros. Charleston Kitchen\u003c/em>, and in it, Matt and Ted Lee feature recipes and stories from the Southern port city they grew up in. The brothers joined NPR's Melissa Block to talk about Charleston's distinctive food culture, starting with the dishes that they'd put on a typical Charleston menu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I would start with kumquat sparklers, with the flavor of backyard kumquats, which are like tangerines,\" Matt says. \"Also, classic Charleston cheese biscuits with a single pecan pressed into it, and savory benne wafers — sesame seed wafers.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/books/titles/177362137/the-lee-bros-charleston-kitchen\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/lee-brothers-bookcover.jpg\" alt=\"The Lee Bros. Charleston Kitchen\" width=\"300\" height=\"314\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-60345\">\u003c/a>For the second course, Ted says, \"we'd do a she-crab soup, and then we'd do a shrimp and grits,\" he says. \"For vegetables, I think this is the perfect time to do chainey briar; it's growing really well out on Sullivan's Island. We'd do some \u003ca href=\"#briar\">Grilled Chainey Briar\u003c/a>.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Chainey briar is a native weed or vine,\" Ted explains. \"It's \u003cem>Smilax\u003c/em> botanically. It's something that grows on fence lines, it grows on sand dunes at the beaches and it has, in the spring right about now, a tender tip, a shoot that is delicious.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It looks, quite frankly, like a weed, and might be a bit of an acquired taste — but the brothers say it's worth acquiring. \"It's pretty rangy, and that's the appeal, in terms of flavor,\" Matt says. It tastes like asparagus but with this extra sort of reckless green thing. Sometimes we describe it as tasting like asparagus with olive oil already on it.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For dessert, the brothers would serve \u003ca href=\"#torte\">Huguenot Torte\u003c/a>, an iconic Charleston dish. \"Hugeonot torte has this nice meringue-like crisp top, but then a sludgy caramel and apple and pecan bottom to it,\" Matt says. \"It's got flour but tons of leavening — so it just puffs up in the oven, then collapses and creates this very interesting and uniquely Charleston dessert.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Southern Food With Less Pork And More Loquats\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Lee brothers, who were born in New York but grew up in Charleston, have written two previous cookbooks highlighting Southern cuisine. This is their first to focus just on the city of their youth, and their choice is more than just hometown favoritism: Charleston's culinary tradition is unusual, with dishes and traditions you won't find in other parts of the South.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's naturally about the seafood and also about the poultry,\" Matt explains. \"The much-heralded, like, 'porkopolis' of the South doesn't really exist so much in Charleston, because it was never a place to raise cattle or pigs, being so marshy.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's not just the meat that makes Charleston stand out; there's also a rich variety of local produce. \"I think another thing that visitors to Charleston are surprised by is just how close the farms are — the rural part of Charleston — to the city,\" Ted says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You might not even need to find a farmer to get fresh food. \"Even downtown — we grew up downtown in the historic district — we're surrounded by fruits of all kinds, like kumquats, loquats, mulberries, figs, pomegranates, bananas, citrus,\" Ted says. \"They all grow downtown, and you grow up sort of knowing where the trees are and which ones taste best.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Call it \"foraging\" or call it \"stealing,\" snagging fruit off someone else's tree is certainly possible in Charleston. \"There are a lot of secrets in back alleys in Charleston that yield great fruits and herbs.\" The trick to harvesting that bounty without ruining your neighborly relations? \"Be very polite,\" Ted says — and, Matt adds, be sure to smile. \"That's awfully disarming,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Taking Cues From The Past\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In addition to highlighting Charleston's current food culture, Matt and Ted Lee also looked to Charleston's history to find old recipes that might have been forgotten. Cookbooks from the 19th century were particularly inspiring, Ted says. \"They tell a story so diverse and varied about the different types of vegetables that were grown in the low country, some of which are rarely found, like salsify, tania — it's a root vegetable,\" he says. \"It's nice to be able to draw from the past to inform your kitchen in the present.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One recipe in the new cookbook comes from an even more distant past — a dessert from the 1700s called \u003ca href=\"#syllabub\">Syllabub\u003c/a>. \"Despite the fact that it appears in all the old cookbooks, Matt and I have never been served it — either in a Charleston restaurant or a Charleston home,\" Ted says. \"So we just tried it ourselves. It's basically very simple — it's fortified wine that's been seasoned with lemon juice and lemon peel, a little bit of sugar, sometimes spices, and whipped with cream until it's sort of this airy, fluffy, alcoholic whipped cream that goes really well with fruit.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you want to follow Matt and Ted and take a stab at Syllabub, a recipe is below, as well as recipes for Huguenot Torte and Grilled Chainey Briar. But be warned: You might need to plan a trip to Charleston to enjoy that chainey briar. You won't find it in grocery stores or farmers markets, and will have better luck harvesting it yourself. Like fresh kumquats off the tree or oysters from the ocean, it's a location-bound delicacy. As Matt Lee, who lives in Charleston today, puts it, \"it's just one of those things that you have to live here to really appreciate.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"briar\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Grilled Chainey Briar\u003c/h3>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60346\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/lee-brothers-chaineybriar.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/lee-brothers-chaineybriar-290x290.jpg\" alt=\"Chainey briar grows wild around Charleston, S.C. Photo: Matt Lee and Ted Lee/Clarkson Potter\" width=\"290\" height=\"290\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-60346\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chainey briar grows wild around Charleston, S.C. Photo: Matt Lee and Ted Lee/Clarkson Potter\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Chainey briar is what Charlestonians of a certain age call the tender shoots of the smilax (aka cat briar) vine, which can be found growing in the dunes and along sandy fence lines throughout the area. The distinctive spade-shaped leaves distinguish smilax from other vines growing in the same terrain. When raw, chainey briar has a delicious asparagus-and-olive-oil flavor that is fresh and green; lightly cooked, it is even more appetizing and tender. Chainey briar appears most often in community cookbooks of the rural sea islands, like Edisto and Yonge's.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Most chainey briar found among the dunes or in metropolitan Charleston are thin, curly tendrils, although our friend Tom, who gentleman-farms on Johns Island, recently introduced us to \"bull briar,\" the thicker sprouts of mature smilax vines that grow in the forested areas of the sea islands. Bull briar, which truly resembles large asparagus, would seem to represent more vegetable for one's effort, but it is found so high in the trees that a pole pruner is usually required to harvest it. We're just as happy to spend the afternoon on a path to the beach, eating every third tendril we pick, until the basket is full.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chainey briar almost never appears in the farmer's markets, so you must forage for it yourself (or ingratiate yourself to farmer Sidi Limehouse [see page 94 of The Lee Bros. Charleston Kitchen], who will occasionally indulge good friends with a basketful). Its flavor is robust enough that it grills well, wilting and charring in places. Dressed with oil and lemon, it makes for an exciting side dish with pre-colonial roots.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 pound chainey briar\u003cbr>1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for the pan\u003cbr>Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper\u003cbr>2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Thoroughly wash the chainey briar, removing any ants or foreign matter and pinching off the stem ends (which will toughen as they age) so only the tender parts remain. Toss the chainey briar in a large bowl with the olive oil to coat, scatter 1/2 teaspoon salt over the bowl, and toss again.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Lightly oil a grill pan, and place it over high heat. When a drop of water sizzles when dropped on the pan, spread the chainey briar in an even layer about 1/2 inch high (you may have to grill multiple batches, depending on the size of your pan). Allow the chainey briar to sizzle and pop for a minute or two, until the tips of some begin to blacken. Use tongs to shuffle the chainey briar on the grill pan and allow them to cook a minute or two more, until almost all the fronds show signs of wilting. Reserve the chainey briar in a large covered bowl as you move on to grill another batch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. When all the chainey briar is wilted and charred, dress it with the lemon juice, toss lightly, and season to taste with salt and black pepper. Serve warm or at room temperature.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"torte\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Huguenot Torte\u003c/h3>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60347\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/lee-brothershuguenot-torte.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/lee-brothershuguenot-torte-290x290.jpg\" alt=\"Huguenot torte has gooey caramel beneath a crackly top Photo: Squire Fox/Clarkson Potter\" width=\"290\" height=\"290\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-60347\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Huguenot torte has gooey caramel beneath a crackly top Photo: Squire Fox/Clarkson Potter\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Serves: 6 to 8\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\u003cem>Time: 55 minutes, 10 minutes cooling\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Imagine that a blondie and an apple-pecan pie got into a crusty-gooey, sticky-delicious accident in a baking dish, and you'll approximate the ultra-decadence of this dessert. Until relatively recently, Charlestonians believed that this confection, as the title might suggest, came to Charleston with the French Huguenots, who settled in the city in the eighteenth century, and that it was a rustic cousin of elegant pâtisseries. But in the 1990s, the culinary historian and Lowcountry native John Martin Taylor tracked down the woman to whom the recipe is attributed in Charleston Receipts, and learned that she'd encountered the dish as \"Ozark Pudding\" while visiting relatives in Arkansas in the 1940s. She had brought the recipe back to Charleston, and put the dessert on the menu of the Huguenot Tavern, where she was a cook.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The fact that this dessert has become as much an icon of Charleston home cooking as Charleston Okra Soup [see page 74 of The Lee Bros. Charleston Kitchen] and She-Crab Soup [page 77] seems odd — but it's all part of \"Charleston's food pattern,\" as May A. Pyatt wrote in a 1950 review of Charleston Receipts in the News and Courier. Another interesting note: not many Charleston restaurants these days offer the torte — or even variants upon it — but it is almost always offered on menus at the tea rooms [see page 79] that open in the spring throughout the area. You should master it yourself; it's easy to make and easy to eat, and nice to have in your repertoire.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When we're serving this dish for guests, we often temper its sweetness by whipping a small amount of buttermilk or sour cream into the whipped cream garnish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>unsalted butter for greasing the dish\u003cbr>2 large eggs\u003cbr>1 1/3 cups sugar\u003cbr>1/4 cup all-purpose flour\u003cbr>2 1/2 teaspoons baking powder\u003cbr>1/4 teaspoon kosher salt\u003cbr>1 Granny Smith or other tart apple, cored, peeled, and diced (1 cup)\u003cbr>1 cup chopped pecans\u003cbr>1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract\u003cbr>1/2 cup heavy cream\u003cbr>2 tablespoons whole buttermilk or sour cream\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Preheat the oven to 325 degrees F. Grease a 2-quart baking dish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. In a large bowl, beat the eggs with a whisk until they're creamy and frothy. Add the sugar, flour, baking powder, salt, apple, pecans, and vanilla, whisking to combine after each addition.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Pour the batter into the prepared baking dish and bake for 45 minutes, or until the top of the torte is crusty. Remove the torte from the oven and let cool for about 10 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Whip the cream with the buttermilk until stiff peaks form. Cut into individual portions — they will be lumpen and misshapen, with shards of crust and spoonfuls of ooze, but no matter — and serve with dollops of the whipped cream.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"syllabub\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Syllabub With Rosemary-Glazed Figs\u003c/h3>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60343\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 666px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/lee-brothers-syllabub.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/lee-brothers-syllabub.jpg\" alt=\"Syllabub is a traditional dessert featuring sherry, cream and sugar. Photo: Squire Fox/Clarkson Potter\" width=\"666\" height=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-60343\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Syllabub is a traditional dessert featuring sherry, cream and sugar. Photo: Squire Fox/Clarkson Potter\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Serves: 4 \u003c/em>\u003cbr>\u003cem>Time: 1 hour 15 minutes, including chilling\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Syllabub\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup Sercial Madeira or Amontillado sherry\u003cbr>Peel of 1/2 lemon\u003cbr>1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice\u003cbr>1 1/2 tablespoons sugar\u003cbr>Pinch of kosher salt\u003cbr>1 cup heavy cream, cold\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Rosemary-glazed figs\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup sugar\u003cbr>2 (3-inch) long sprigs rosemary\u003cbr>Pinch of kosher salt\u003cbr>4 ounces fresh figs (about 4 large), stemmed and quartered\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Make the syllabub: Put all syllabub ingredients except for the cream into a large bowl, and whisk until the sugar has dissolved, about a minute. Let stand in the fridge, about 1 hour.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2.\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>Make the rosemary-glazed figs: Heat the sugar and 1/4 cup of water in a small saucepan over medium heat, stirring until the sugar dissolves. Add the rosemary and the salt, stir for about 30 seconds to dissolve the salt and bruise the rosemary, and turn off the heat. Cover and let cool to room temperature, about 20 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3\u003cstrong>. \u003c/strong>Put the figs in a small bowl, drizzle 2 to 3 tablespoons of the rosemary syrup over them, and toss gently to coat. (If the figs are less than ripe, let them stand in the syrup for 30 minutes to sweeten.) Reserve the remaining syrup for another use, such as sweetening lemonade.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Remove the lemon peel from the wine mixture. Pour the cream into the wine and whisk by hand until the cream is thick and holds its shape, about 2 minutes. Divide the syllabub among four wine glasses or sundae cups and spoon the rosemary-glazed figs over each serving.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Syllabub with Strawberries and Black Pepper\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For a springtime variation on Syllabub with Rosemary-Glazed Figs, make Syllabub with Strawberries and Black Pepper. Simply substitute for the rosemary-glazed figs 4 ounces strawberries that have been quartered and tossed a few times with sugar to taste (a teaspoon or two) until the sugar has dissolved. (Add a few drops water, if needed, to dissolve). Spoon the strawberries over each serving of Syllabub, then grind a bit of black pepper over the top of each and serve.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Recipes from \u003c/em>The Lee Bros. Charleston Cookbook\u003cem> by Matt Lee and Ted Lee. Copyright 2013 by Matt Lee and Ted Lee. Excerpted by permission of Clarkson Potter, an imprint of the Crown Publishing Group, a division of Random House. \u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>More on the Lee Bros.\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=125832027\">Classic Southern Food Gets A Makeover\u003c/a> (NPR Food)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=6650215\">Recipes That Passed a Cookbook Critic's Test\u003c/a> (Kitchen Window, NPR Food)\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "Nettles Bring Spring To The Kitchen",
"title": "Nettles Bring Spring To The Kitchen",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60287\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/nettlesmain.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/nettlesmain-1024x575.jpg\" alt=\"Nettles. Photo: Nicole Spiridakis for NPR\" width=\"1024\" height=\"575\" class=\"size-large wp-image-60287\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nettles. Photo: Nicole Spiridakis for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Nicole Spiridakis, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2013/04/17/176668359/nettles-bring-spring-to-the-kitchen\">Kitchen Window at NPR Food\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> Get recipes for \u003ca href=\"#soup\">Nettle Soup\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#tart\">Nettle Tart\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#pesto\">Nettle Pesto\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"#risotto\">Nettle-Lemon Risotto\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My in-laws live in a half-wild, magical place perched along the edge of the Northern California coastline about an hour from San Francisco. On nice days — and even when it rains — my husband and I will take their black Lab for a ramble up into the woods behind the house where banana slugs carpet the narrow trail, salamanders creep shyly through the trees alongside it, and the air is full of birdsong and the good, damp smells of the growing things.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It also is a place where you could \u003cem>almost \u003c/em>eat off the land, particularly if you like your greens. Depending on the season, there are \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2012/07/24/157276973/you-can-never-have-too-many-blackberries\">blackberries\u003c/a>, thimbleberries, huckleberries, miner's lettuce, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=104674500\">fiddlehead ferns\u003c/a>, wild fennel, nettles, mushrooms and \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2010/06/23/128010832/weed-it-and-reap-a-meal-with-natures-outcasts\">probably more\u003c/a> growing rampant in forest and field. Availing oneself of nature's bounty can be as easy as pulling on a pair of gloves and heading out into the wild (or just pulling the stuff growing next to the road).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After years of avoiding nettles as much as possible, I decided it was time to address my loathing. Indeed, I have a long and rather frustrating history with the plant, and it's not been pretty: backpacking trips in the Point Reyes Seashore, where I've unwittingly strode through an overgrown meadow pockmarked with the stuff, leaving me with an unpleasant, lingering sting for the remainder of the trip; or accidental brushing against their vibrant green leaves while on a run and painfully ruing my carelessness.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Still, I've wanted to do \u003cem>something \u003c/em>in the kitchen with nettles for a long time. I had an inkling that despite their sting, nettles might be an overlooked bit of nature's bounty, their prickly leaves couching a hidden secret: Not only are they good-tasting, but they are good for you.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And it's true: Nettles are high in iron, potassium, manganese, calcium and vitamins A and C (and are also a decent source of protein). The word \"nettle\" describes more than 40 different flowering plant species from the Urtica genus, which comes from the Latin word \"uro,\" meaning, \"I burn.\" The plant is native to Europe, Asia, Africa and North America, and is found throughout the continental United States. Nettles are readily available in spring and summer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nettles are used as a medicinal herb and can help in treating arthritis, anemia, hay fever and kidney problems, among other ailments. Dried leaves may be used to make a tea that is useful in alleviating allergy symptoms.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Any vegetable that can provide a great nutritional bang for the effort to cook it is always appealing to me. Plus, nettles grow wild, and all I'd have to do is go pick them (after pulling on protective clothing first, of course).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As I also learned, picking nettles is a fairly simple endeavor (simpler still is a friendly farmer at the market who will sell you a bunch already bagged). Look for young plants in spring and summer when you are ready to forage.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The key is to pick the leaves while wearing thick gloves and a long-sleeved shirt (and pants) and then, as soon as possible, plunge the leaves into a pot of boiling water, and you'll be left with a sleek, slick pile of vivid green leaves. After cooking, nettles produce an entirely sting-free eating experience.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Back in San Francisco, my nettles rested awhile in the refrigerator before I had time to fold them along with almonds and a bit of Parmesan cheese into a semi-traditional pesto recipe that tasted fresh and bright, with a subtle undertone of spring. It was delicious — slightly floral, slightly woodsy and slightly (but only just) reminiscent of spinach. I tossed it with whole-wheat spaghetti and chopped, steamed asparagus for a hearty and satisfying dinner.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I've also made a wonderful nettle tart and a creamy, leek-infused soup that had me regretting any earlier cursing of the plant. Look at nettles as a substitute for spinach, and you will have no trouble coming up with any number of ways to incorporate this unassuming wild plant into many favorite dishes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This spring I have been able to bring the woods into my little urban kitchen because of those nettles, and that to me is argument enough that I should go out foraging again. Soon the blackberries will hang heavy on their thorny branches, ripe for jam, and I will tuck delicate miner's lettuce into salads laced with a sprinkling of huckleberries. The days will stretch out long and longer still, and I will gather nettles as often as I am able.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>Nettle Tips\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>To cook nettles, wash and drain, discarding stems. Place the leaves in a pot of boiling water and cook for 3 to 4 minutes until nettles are wilted. Drain through a colander and press out any excess water. Nettles may be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 5 days.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When foraging, only pick the nettle tops (the top four leaves) and make sure the nettles are less than knee-high. Discard the stems. An annual plant, nettles are found in woodsy areas and forests, in natural grasslands, along fertile fields and riverbanks, and along shaded trails. Always be careful to wear thick gardening gloves and protective clothing when picking. Although being stung by a nettle or eating an uncooked nettle is not dangerous or poisonous, you will probably wish you hadn't.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"soup\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Nettle Soup\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Hearty and nourishing, this soup tastes like the woods and spring. A little heavy cream added at the end lends a touch of richness.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60288\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 462px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/nettlesoup.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/nettlesoup.jpg\" alt=\"Nettle Soup. Photo: Nicole Spiridakis for NPR\" width=\"462\" height=\"391\" class=\"size-full wp-image-60288\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nettle Soup. Photo: Nicole Spiridakis for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon olive oil, plus extra for drizzling\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 carrot, peeled and diced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 leeks, white part only, washed and finely sliced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 large potato, peeled and thinly sliced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>8 cups vegetable stock\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 cups washed stinging nettles\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon pepper\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup heavy cream (optional)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a large soup pot over medium heat, warm the olive oil. Add the carrot, leeks and potato and cook for about 10 minutes, until the vegetables start to soften. Add the stock, bring to a boil, then reduce heat to a simmer and cook for 10 to 15 minutes, or until the potato is soft.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Add the nettle leaves and simmer for about 1 minute to wilt. Remove from heat. With an immersion blender or in a food processor, blend the soup until very smooth. Return to the pot and season with the salt and pepper (add a little more to taste if necessary), then stir in the heavy cream if using. Serve the soup drizzled with olive oil.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"tart\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Nettle Tart\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Spinach may be used here in a pinch, but try to use nettles if it's at all possible. The tart may be made ahead and served warm or at room temperature.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60289\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 677px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/nettletart.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/nettletart.jpg\" alt=\"Nettle Tart. Photo: Nicole Spiridakis for NPR\" width=\"677\" height=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-60289\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nettle Tart. Photo: Nicole Spiridakis for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 8 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Crust\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/4 cups whole-wheat pastry flour\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 to 4 tablespoons ice-cold water\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Filling\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 cups nettle leaves\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 shallots, chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 large eggs\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup whole milk\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup heavy cream\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon black pepper\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon dried thyme\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 ounces Gruyere cheese, grated\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Heat oven to 350 degrees.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To make the crust, place the whole-wheat pastry flour in a large bowl. Whisk and cut in the olive oil with a fork until the mixture resembles coarse meal. Whisk in the ice water a little at a time, until the dough just begins to hold together. Form into a ball, wrap in plastic wrap, and let rest in the refrigerator for 20 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Roll out the dough, fit into a 9-inch tart or pie pan and prick the bottom lightly with a fork. Place in the oven and bake for 15 minutes, until crust is slightly golden. Remove from oven and set aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, make the filling. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil and add the nettle leaves. Boil for 3 minutes. Drain and rinse with cold water. Drain again and set aside. When cool, chop the nettle tops into thin strips.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a medium saucepan, heat the olive oil and add the shallots. Saute for about 4 minutes, until soft.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a large bowl, whisk the eggs. Add the milk and cream, and whisk to combine. Stir in the cooked nettles, salt, pepper, thyme and Gruyere cheese.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pour the filling into the tart shell and sprinkle evenly with the grated Parmesan cheese.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place in the oven and bake for 30 to 40 minutes, until surface is golden and puffed. Remove tart from oven and let cool slightly before serving.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"pesto\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Nettle Pesto\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>I like lots of garlic, so have included 4 cloves here, but adjust to your taste. For a vegan version, omit the cheese and try adding a bit of lemon zest for a flavorful, dairy-free boost. Pair this with pasta, drop dollops onto bowls of asparagus soup, or spread on little toasts and top with thinly sliced radishes and a sprinkling of sea salt.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60285\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 686px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/nettlepestopasta.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/nettlepestopasta.jpg\" alt=\"Nettle Pesto with Pasta. Photo: Nicole Spiridakis for NPR\" width=\"686\" height=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-60285\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nettle Pesto with Pasta. Photo: Nicole Spiridakis for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes about 1 1/2 cups\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup cooked nettles, about 5 cups uncooked nettles\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 tablespoons pine nuts\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 cloves garlic, sliced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more as needed\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dash lemon juice\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Salt and pepper to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To cook the nettles, place leaves in a pot of salted, boiling water for 3 minutes or so, drain and squeeze dry. Coarsely chop.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a food processor, combine the pine nuts and garlic. Process to chop coarsely. Add about half the nettles and process to chop coarsely. Add the remaining nettles and olive oil and process until a thick green sauce forms. If the sauce is too thick, add a little more olive oil.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Add the cheese and dash of lemon juice, and season with salt and pepper. Process briefly. Pour into a glass jar or other container and top with a thin layer of olive oil to prevent the surface from discoloring. Cover tightly and refrigerate for up to 2 weeks.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"risotto\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Nettle-Lemon Risotto\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Simple and lovely, this risotto is bright with lemon zest and is punctuated with a floral note from the nettles. It makes a light and satisfying vegetarian main dish when served with a crisp salad, or pair it with poached wild salmon fillets.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60286\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 666px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/nettlerisotto.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/nettlerisotto.jpg\" alt=\"Nettle Risotto. Photo: Nicole Spiridakis for NPR\" width=\"666\" height=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-60286\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nettle Risotto. Photo: Nicole Spiridakis for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 tablespoons olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 shallots, minced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cloves garlic, minced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 cups arborio rice\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup dry white wine\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6 to 7 cups vegetable broth\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cups cooked nettles, finely chopped, about 10 cups uncooked nettles\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/3 cup grated Parmesan cheese\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon pepper\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon dried herbs de Provence\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Zest from 1 organic lemon\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a large saucepan, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat. Add the shallots and the garlic and cook for 3 to 4 minutes, until vegetables are slightly softened. Add the arborio rice and cook for another minute, until the rice is well coated with olive oil.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pour in the white wine and bring the mixture to a boil, then lower heat to medium and simmer the rice, stirring frequently, until the wine is absorbed. Add 1 cup of vegetable broth and stir frequently until it is absorbed into the rice. Repeat with 5 more cups of broth. Rice should be tender and creamy (not dry). Reduce heat to low and stir in the nettles, stirring well to distribute evenly. Stir in the Parmesan cheese and a little more broth if the risotto seems dry. Cook for about 3 minutes until the cheese is melted.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Stir in the salt, pepper, dried herbs and lemon zest. Serve immediately. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>About The Author\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nNicole Spiridakis lives in San Francisco and writes about food, travel and her native state on her blog, \u003ca href=\"http://www.cucinanicolina.com/\">cucinanicolina.com\u003c/a>. Her work has appeared in \u003cem>The New York Times\u003c/em>, the \u003cem>San Francisco Chronicle\u003c/em>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.chow.com/\">chow.com\u003c/a> and other publications.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Stinging nettles are an overlooked bit of nature's bounty, their prickly leaves hiding a secret: They're good-tasting and good for you. (Consider them a stand-in for spinach.) To find them, just pull on some gloves and head out into the wild — or to a farmers market.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60287\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/nettlesmain.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/nettlesmain-1024x575.jpg\" alt=\"Nettles. Photo: Nicole Spiridakis for NPR\" width=\"1024\" height=\"575\" class=\"size-large wp-image-60287\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nettles. Photo: Nicole Spiridakis for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Nicole Spiridakis, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2013/04/17/176668359/nettles-bring-spring-to-the-kitchen\">Kitchen Window at NPR Food\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> Get recipes for \u003ca href=\"#soup\">Nettle Soup\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#tart\">Nettle Tart\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#pesto\">Nettle Pesto\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"#risotto\">Nettle-Lemon Risotto\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My in-laws live in a half-wild, magical place perched along the edge of the Northern California coastline about an hour from San Francisco. On nice days — and even when it rains — my husband and I will take their black Lab for a ramble up into the woods behind the house where banana slugs carpet the narrow trail, salamanders creep shyly through the trees alongside it, and the air is full of birdsong and the good, damp smells of the growing things.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It also is a place where you could \u003cem>almost \u003c/em>eat off the land, particularly if you like your greens. Depending on the season, there are \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2012/07/24/157276973/you-can-never-have-too-many-blackberries\">blackberries\u003c/a>, thimbleberries, huckleberries, miner's lettuce, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=104674500\">fiddlehead ferns\u003c/a>, wild fennel, nettles, mushrooms and \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2010/06/23/128010832/weed-it-and-reap-a-meal-with-natures-outcasts\">probably more\u003c/a> growing rampant in forest and field. Availing oneself of nature's bounty can be as easy as pulling on a pair of gloves and heading out into the wild (or just pulling the stuff growing next to the road).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After years of avoiding nettles as much as possible, I decided it was time to address my loathing. Indeed, I have a long and rather frustrating history with the plant, and it's not been pretty: backpacking trips in the Point Reyes Seashore, where I've unwittingly strode through an overgrown meadow pockmarked with the stuff, leaving me with an unpleasant, lingering sting for the remainder of the trip; or accidental brushing against their vibrant green leaves while on a run and painfully ruing my carelessness.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Still, I've wanted to do \u003cem>something \u003c/em>in the kitchen with nettles for a long time. I had an inkling that despite their sting, nettles might be an overlooked bit of nature's bounty, their prickly leaves couching a hidden secret: Not only are they good-tasting, but they are good for you.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And it's true: Nettles are high in iron, potassium, manganese, calcium and vitamins A and C (and are also a decent source of protein). The word \"nettle\" describes more than 40 different flowering plant species from the Urtica genus, which comes from the Latin word \"uro,\" meaning, \"I burn.\" The plant is native to Europe, Asia, Africa and North America, and is found throughout the continental United States. Nettles are readily available in spring and summer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nettles are used as a medicinal herb and can help in treating arthritis, anemia, hay fever and kidney problems, among other ailments. Dried leaves may be used to make a tea that is useful in alleviating allergy symptoms.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Any vegetable that can provide a great nutritional bang for the effort to cook it is always appealing to me. Plus, nettles grow wild, and all I'd have to do is go pick them (after pulling on protective clothing first, of course).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As I also learned, picking nettles is a fairly simple endeavor (simpler still is a friendly farmer at the market who will sell you a bunch already bagged). Look for young plants in spring and summer when you are ready to forage.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The key is to pick the leaves while wearing thick gloves and a long-sleeved shirt (and pants) and then, as soon as possible, plunge the leaves into a pot of boiling water, and you'll be left with a sleek, slick pile of vivid green leaves. After cooking, nettles produce an entirely sting-free eating experience.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Back in San Francisco, my nettles rested awhile in the refrigerator before I had time to fold them along with almonds and a bit of Parmesan cheese into a semi-traditional pesto recipe that tasted fresh and bright, with a subtle undertone of spring. It was delicious — slightly floral, slightly woodsy and slightly (but only just) reminiscent of spinach. I tossed it with whole-wheat spaghetti and chopped, steamed asparagus for a hearty and satisfying dinner.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I've also made a wonderful nettle tart and a creamy, leek-infused soup that had me regretting any earlier cursing of the plant. Look at nettles as a substitute for spinach, and you will have no trouble coming up with any number of ways to incorporate this unassuming wild plant into many favorite dishes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This spring I have been able to bring the woods into my little urban kitchen because of those nettles, and that to me is argument enough that I should go out foraging again. Soon the blackberries will hang heavy on their thorny branches, ripe for jam, and I will tuck delicate miner's lettuce into salads laced with a sprinkling of huckleberries. The days will stretch out long and longer still, and I will gather nettles as often as I am able.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>Nettle Tips\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>To cook nettles, wash and drain, discarding stems. Place the leaves in a pot of boiling water and cook for 3 to 4 minutes until nettles are wilted. Drain through a colander and press out any excess water. Nettles may be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 5 days.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When foraging, only pick the nettle tops (the top four leaves) and make sure the nettles are less than knee-high. Discard the stems. An annual plant, nettles are found in woodsy areas and forests, in natural grasslands, along fertile fields and riverbanks, and along shaded trails. Always be careful to wear thick gardening gloves and protective clothing when picking. Although being stung by a nettle or eating an uncooked nettle is not dangerous or poisonous, you will probably wish you hadn't.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"soup\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Nettle Soup\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Hearty and nourishing, this soup tastes like the woods and spring. A little heavy cream added at the end lends a touch of richness.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60288\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 462px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/nettlesoup.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/nettlesoup.jpg\" alt=\"Nettle Soup. Photo: Nicole Spiridakis for NPR\" width=\"462\" height=\"391\" class=\"size-full wp-image-60288\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nettle Soup. Photo: Nicole Spiridakis for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon olive oil, plus extra for drizzling\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 carrot, peeled and diced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 leeks, white part only, washed and finely sliced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 large potato, peeled and thinly sliced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>8 cups vegetable stock\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 cups washed stinging nettles\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon pepper\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup heavy cream (optional)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a large soup pot over medium heat, warm the olive oil. Add the carrot, leeks and potato and cook for about 10 minutes, until the vegetables start to soften. Add the stock, bring to a boil, then reduce heat to a simmer and cook for 10 to 15 minutes, or until the potato is soft.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Add the nettle leaves and simmer for about 1 minute to wilt. Remove from heat. With an immersion blender or in a food processor, blend the soup until very smooth. Return to the pot and season with the salt and pepper (add a little more to taste if necessary), then stir in the heavy cream if using. Serve the soup drizzled with olive oil.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"tart\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Nettle Tart\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Spinach may be used here in a pinch, but try to use nettles if it's at all possible. The tart may be made ahead and served warm or at room temperature.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60289\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 677px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/nettletart.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/nettletart.jpg\" alt=\"Nettle Tart. Photo: Nicole Spiridakis for NPR\" width=\"677\" height=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-60289\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nettle Tart. Photo: Nicole Spiridakis for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 8 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Crust\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/4 cups whole-wheat pastry flour\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 to 4 tablespoons ice-cold water\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Filling\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 cups nettle leaves\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 shallots, chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 large eggs\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup whole milk\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup heavy cream\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon black pepper\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon dried thyme\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 ounces Gruyere cheese, grated\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Heat oven to 350 degrees.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To make the crust, place the whole-wheat pastry flour in a large bowl. Whisk and cut in the olive oil with a fork until the mixture resembles coarse meal. Whisk in the ice water a little at a time, until the dough just begins to hold together. Form into a ball, wrap in plastic wrap, and let rest in the refrigerator for 20 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Roll out the dough, fit into a 9-inch tart or pie pan and prick the bottom lightly with a fork. Place in the oven and bake for 15 minutes, until crust is slightly golden. Remove from oven and set aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, make the filling. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil and add the nettle leaves. Boil for 3 minutes. Drain and rinse with cold water. Drain again and set aside. When cool, chop the nettle tops into thin strips.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a medium saucepan, heat the olive oil and add the shallots. Saute for about 4 minutes, until soft.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a large bowl, whisk the eggs. Add the milk and cream, and whisk to combine. Stir in the cooked nettles, salt, pepper, thyme and Gruyere cheese.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pour the filling into the tart shell and sprinkle evenly with the grated Parmesan cheese.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place in the oven and bake for 30 to 40 minutes, until surface is golden and puffed. Remove tart from oven and let cool slightly before serving.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"pesto\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Nettle Pesto\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>I like lots of garlic, so have included 4 cloves here, but adjust to your taste. For a vegan version, omit the cheese and try adding a bit of lemon zest for a flavorful, dairy-free boost. Pair this with pasta, drop dollops onto bowls of asparagus soup, or spread on little toasts and top with thinly sliced radishes and a sprinkling of sea salt.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60285\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 686px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/nettlepestopasta.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/nettlepestopasta.jpg\" alt=\"Nettle Pesto with Pasta. Photo: Nicole Spiridakis for NPR\" width=\"686\" height=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-60285\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nettle Pesto with Pasta. Photo: Nicole Spiridakis for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes about 1 1/2 cups\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup cooked nettles, about 5 cups uncooked nettles\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 tablespoons pine nuts\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 cloves garlic, sliced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more as needed\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dash lemon juice\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Salt and pepper to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To cook the nettles, place leaves in a pot of salted, boiling water for 3 minutes or so, drain and squeeze dry. Coarsely chop.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a food processor, combine the pine nuts and garlic. Process to chop coarsely. Add about half the nettles and process to chop coarsely. Add the remaining nettles and olive oil and process until a thick green sauce forms. If the sauce is too thick, add a little more olive oil.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Add the cheese and dash of lemon juice, and season with salt and pepper. Process briefly. Pour into a glass jar or other container and top with a thin layer of olive oil to prevent the surface from discoloring. Cover tightly and refrigerate for up to 2 weeks.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"risotto\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Nettle-Lemon Risotto\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Simple and lovely, this risotto is bright with lemon zest and is punctuated with a floral note from the nettles. It makes a light and satisfying vegetarian main dish when served with a crisp salad, or pair it with poached wild salmon fillets.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60286\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 666px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/nettlerisotto.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/nettlerisotto.jpg\" alt=\"Nettle Risotto. Photo: Nicole Spiridakis for NPR\" width=\"666\" height=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-60286\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nettle Risotto. Photo: Nicole Spiridakis for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 tablespoons olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 shallots, minced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cloves garlic, minced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 cups arborio rice\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup dry white wine\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6 to 7 cups vegetable broth\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cups cooked nettles, finely chopped, about 10 cups uncooked nettles\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/3 cup grated Parmesan cheese\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon pepper\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon dried herbs de Provence\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Zest from 1 organic lemon\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a large saucepan, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat. Add the shallots and the garlic and cook for 3 to 4 minutes, until vegetables are slightly softened. Add the arborio rice and cook for another minute, until the rice is well coated with olive oil.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pour in the white wine and bring the mixture to a boil, then lower heat to medium and simmer the rice, stirring frequently, until the wine is absorbed. Add 1 cup of vegetable broth and stir frequently until it is absorbed into the rice. Repeat with 5 more cups of broth. Rice should be tender and creamy (not dry). Reduce heat to low and stir in the nettles, stirring well to distribute evenly. Stir in the Parmesan cheese and a little more broth if the risotto seems dry. Cook for about 3 minutes until the cheese is melted.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Stir in the salt, pepper, dried herbs and lemon zest. Serve immediately. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>About The Author\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nNicole Spiridakis lives in San Francisco and writes about food, travel and her native state on her blog, \u003ca href=\"http://www.cucinanicolina.com/\">cucinanicolina.com\u003c/a>. Her work has appeared in \u003cem>The New York Times\u003c/em>, the \u003cem>San Francisco Chronicle\u003c/em>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.chow.com/\">chow.com\u003c/a> and other publications.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "From Vine To Pen: When Your Drink Is In The Ink",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60259\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/writing-ink.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/writing-ink-1024x992.jpg\" alt='Ernest Hemingway once said, \"A man does not exist until he is drunk. Photo: AP' width=\"1024\" height=\"992\" class=\"size-large wp-image-60259\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ernest Hemingway once said, \"A man does not exist until he is drunk. Photo: AP\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Lydia Zuraw, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/04/03/176121775/from-vine-to-pen-theres-more-than-one-way-wine-fuels-writing\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (4/18/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sure, we all know alcohol has fueled plenty a writing session. William Faulkner — who once said, \"civilization begins with distillation\" — was \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2006/12/15/6624971/great-american-writers-and-their-cocktails\">known\u003c/a> to have kept a bottle by his side while he typed away throughout his writing career.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But for centuries, writers relied on alcohol to keep the words flowing in a far less boozy form than the Burroughs and Hemingways of literary history: the wine ink pen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wine, it turns out, was a key ingredient in many recipes for iron gall ink — for all you non-ink nerds, that was the writing ink used by most of the Western world from the Middle Ages all the way up to the 19th century.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Anyone anywhere near famous will have something in iron gall ink,\" says \u003ca href=\"http://www.loc.gov/today/pr/2013/13-038.html\">Elmer Eusman\u003c/a>, head of the conservation division at the Library of Congress.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A \u003ca href=\"http://www.archives.gov/press/press-releases/2011/nr11-152.html\">1297 copy\u003c/a> of history's great political document the Magna Carta was penned in the stuff. Van Gogh drew with it, Da Vinci jotted notes with it, and Bach composed with it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The practice of adding wine into historic inks was quite widespread,\" says chemist \u003ca href=\"https://iris.ucl.ac.uk/iris/browse/profile?upi=MSTRL90\">Matija Strlic\u003c/a>, a senior lecturer at University College London who has worked with historic parchments and inks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The chemistry involved can get pretty wonky, but basically, the wine was believed to make the coloring agents in ink more stable. Wine was also considered a purer solvent than water. And iron gall inks were prized because they were so indelible.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So why did these inks fall out of favor? Sadly, they didn't play nice with the newfangled steel pens of the 19th century, says \u003ca href=\"http://thewalters.org/conservation/staff.aspx\">Abigail Quandt,\u003c/a> head of book and paper conservation at the Walters Art Museum in Baltimore. The inks corroded the writing implements, so different formulations had to be developed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Which conservators would probably say is a good thing. The inks weren't just corroding pens, but also the paper on which historic documents were written. In some of Rembrandt's drawings, for example, the ink has made the paper fragile and brittle, Eusman says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Still, the wine ink tradition is not completely dead.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_3i7MALxLU0]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Recently, Spanish winery \u003ca href=\"http://www.casamariol.com/en/\">Casa Mariol\u003c/a> unwittingly revived it when it decided to send pens filled with a cabernet sauvignon-based ink to potential clients as part of a new marketing scheme.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You cheer with wine after an agreement and, with our wine pen, you can even sign the agreement with the wine,\" Miguel Angel Vaquer — who runs the family business with his siblings — tells The Salt in an email. He didn't mention whether the pens had drummed up wine sales, but he did say that people around the world have been asking about buying their wine ink pens.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's not clear how long interest will last, if recent history is any guide. Brian Goulet says he used to stock wine inks from a German company for his \u003ca href=\"http://www.gouletpens.com/\">Goulet Pen Co.\u003c/a> but doesn't anymore. Apparently, they didn't sell very well.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"As fountain pen inks, they performed OK,\" he says. \"It was more the novelty of the fact they smelled like the wine they were made from that appealed to people.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Alcohol has bolstered many writing sessions throughout history — not just as a drink but as an ink. For most of the last millennia, writers, artists and kings alike relied on an ink that commonly included wine. Now some people are trying to bring this tradition back.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60259\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/writing-ink.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/writing-ink-1024x992.jpg\" alt='Ernest Hemingway once said, \"A man does not exist until he is drunk. Photo: AP' width=\"1024\" height=\"992\" class=\"size-large wp-image-60259\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ernest Hemingway once said, \"A man does not exist until he is drunk. Photo: AP\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Lydia Zuraw, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/04/03/176121775/from-vine-to-pen-theres-more-than-one-way-wine-fuels-writing\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (4/18/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sure, we all know alcohol has fueled plenty a writing session. William Faulkner — who once said, \"civilization begins with distillation\" — was \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2006/12/15/6624971/great-american-writers-and-their-cocktails\">known\u003c/a> to have kept a bottle by his side while he typed away throughout his writing career.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But for centuries, writers relied on alcohol to keep the words flowing in a far less boozy form than the Burroughs and Hemingways of literary history: the wine ink pen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wine, it turns out, was a key ingredient in many recipes for iron gall ink — for all you non-ink nerds, that was the writing ink used by most of the Western world from the Middle Ages all the way up to the 19th century.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Anyone anywhere near famous will have something in iron gall ink,\" says \u003ca href=\"http://www.loc.gov/today/pr/2013/13-038.html\">Elmer Eusman\u003c/a>, head of the conservation division at the Library of Congress.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A \u003ca href=\"http://www.archives.gov/press/press-releases/2011/nr11-152.html\">1297 copy\u003c/a> of history's great political document the Magna Carta was penned in the stuff. Van Gogh drew with it, Da Vinci jotted notes with it, and Bach composed with it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The practice of adding wine into historic inks was quite widespread,\" says chemist \u003ca href=\"https://iris.ucl.ac.uk/iris/browse/profile?upi=MSTRL90\">Matija Strlic\u003c/a>, a senior lecturer at University College London who has worked with historic parchments and inks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The chemistry involved can get pretty wonky, but basically, the wine was believed to make the coloring agents in ink more stable. Wine was also considered a purer solvent than water. And iron gall inks were prized because they were so indelible.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So why did these inks fall out of favor? Sadly, they didn't play nice with the newfangled steel pens of the 19th century, says \u003ca href=\"http://thewalters.org/conservation/staff.aspx\">Abigail Quandt,\u003c/a> head of book and paper conservation at the Walters Art Museum in Baltimore. The inks corroded the writing implements, so different formulations had to be developed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Which conservators would probably say is a good thing. The inks weren't just corroding pens, but also the paper on which historic documents were written. In some of Rembrandt's drawings, for example, the ink has made the paper fragile and brittle, Eusman says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Still, the wine ink tradition is not completely dead.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/_3i7MALxLU0'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/_3i7MALxLU0'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Recently, Spanish winery \u003ca href=\"http://www.casamariol.com/en/\">Casa Mariol\u003c/a> unwittingly revived it when it decided to send pens filled with a cabernet sauvignon-based ink to potential clients as part of a new marketing scheme.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You cheer with wine after an agreement and, with our wine pen, you can even sign the agreement with the wine,\" Miguel Angel Vaquer — who runs the family business with his siblings — tells The Salt in an email. He didn't mention whether the pens had drummed up wine sales, but he did say that people around the world have been asking about buying their wine ink pens.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's not clear how long interest will last, if recent history is any guide. Brian Goulet says he used to stock wine inks from a German company for his \u003ca href=\"http://www.gouletpens.com/\">Goulet Pen Co.\u003c/a> but doesn't anymore. Apparently, they didn't sell very well.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"As fountain pen inks, they performed OK,\" he says. \"It was more the novelty of the fact they smelled like the wine they were made from that appealed to people.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>Post by Allison Aubrey, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/04/17/177644483/study-finds-no-harm-in-occasional-drink-during-pregnancy\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (4/18/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60249\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/pregnant-drinking.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/pregnant-drinking-290x217.jpg\" alt=\"A pregnant woman holds a glass of wine. Photo: iStockphoto.com\" width=\"290\" height=\"217\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-60249\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A pregnant woman holds a glass of wine.\u003cbr> Photo: iStockphoto.com\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Is the occasional glass of wine or beer OK for moms-to-be?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to a new \u003ca href=\"http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/1471-0528.12246/abstract\">study\u003c/a> published in \u003cem>BJOG: An International Journal of Obstetrics and Gynaecology\u003c/em>, there doesn't seem to be any measurable risk.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The study found that drinking up to two alcoholic beverages per week during pregnancy is not linked to developmental problems in children. But even the study's authors caution that abstaining from alcohol is still best for mothers-to-be.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The research was done at the University College London, using data collected as part of the Millennium Cohort Study. The researchers looked at about 10,000 children born in the U.K. between 2000 and 2001. When the children were 7 years old, they were given math, reading and spatial skills tests. And parents completed questionnaires about the children's emotional and social development.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The researchers found that children born to women who consumed a little alcohol during pregnancy had higher test scores on some tests compared with children of nondrinkers. But the researchers conclude that most of these differences were too small to be statistically significant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"While we have followed these children for the first seven years of their lives, further research is needed to detect whether any adverse effects of low levels of alcohol consumption in pregnancy emerge later in childhood,\" professor \u003ca href=\"http://www.ucl.ac.uk/ucl-iris-project/iris/staffprofile.php?ref=YKELL78\">Yvonne Kelly\u003c/a>, of the International Centre for Lifecourse Studies (\u003ca href=\"http://www.ucl.ac.uk/icls\">ICLS)\u003c/a> at University College London, and co-author of the study, said in a statement released by the journal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Department of Health in the U.K. recommends that pregnant women avoid alcohol altogether. But if moms-to-be do choose to drink, the government's advice is \"to not have more than one to two units of alcohol once or twice a week, and not to get drunk,\" according to \u003ca href=\"http://www.nhs.uk/chq/Pages/2270.aspx?CategoryID=54#close\">this\u003c/a> U.K. government site. Under the British government's definition, a small 4-ounce glass of wine is about one-and-a-half units.\u003cstrong>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Experts on fetal alcohol syndrome in the U.S. aren't so convinced by the new findings. \"Failure to see an effect doesn't mean that there isn't one, or that drinking in pregnancy is safe,\" says \u003ca href=\"http://www.med.wayne.edu/prb/fellowship_faculty_sokol.htm\">Dr. Robert Sokol\u003c/a>, director of the C.S. Mott Center for Human Growth and Development at Wayne State University, in an email to The Salt. He explains that the ability to detect effects of low levels of alcohol exposure depends largely on what's measured.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another shortcoming of the study is that people tend to under-report alcohol consumption when they're questioned about it, says \u003ca href=\"http://www.einstein.yu.edu/faculty/10126/david-garry/\">Dr. David Garry\u003c/a> of the Albert Einstein College of Medicine at Yeshiva University. And in this study, women weren't asked to recall how much alcohol they drank until their child was 9 months old, so memories may not have been so clear. It's \"not a convincing study,\" says Garry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"If a woman has had some drinks in pregnancy, I would reassure her that the [child's] development is likely to be normal,\" writes Garry in an email to The Salt. But overall, he says, drinking does pose a risk and should be avoided during pregnancy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Robert Sokol agrees. \"It's still the case that it's safest not to drink during pregnancy,\" Sokol says. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Post by Allison Aubrey, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/04/17/177644483/study-finds-no-harm-in-occasional-drink-during-pregnancy\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (4/18/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60249\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/pregnant-drinking.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/pregnant-drinking-290x217.jpg\" alt=\"A pregnant woman holds a glass of wine. Photo: iStockphoto.com\" width=\"290\" height=\"217\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-60249\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A pregnant woman holds a glass of wine.\u003cbr> Photo: iStockphoto.com\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Is the occasional glass of wine or beer OK for moms-to-be?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to a new \u003ca href=\"http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/1471-0528.12246/abstract\">study\u003c/a> published in \u003cem>BJOG: An International Journal of Obstetrics and Gynaecology\u003c/em>, there doesn't seem to be any measurable risk.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The study found that drinking up to two alcoholic beverages per week during pregnancy is not linked to developmental problems in children. But even the study's authors caution that abstaining from alcohol is still best for mothers-to-be.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The research was done at the University College London, using data collected as part of the Millennium Cohort Study. The researchers looked at about 10,000 children born in the U.K. between 2000 and 2001. When the children were 7 years old, they were given math, reading and spatial skills tests. And parents completed questionnaires about the children's emotional and social development.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The researchers found that children born to women who consumed a little alcohol during pregnancy had higher test scores on some tests compared with children of nondrinkers. But the researchers conclude that most of these differences were too small to be statistically significant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"While we have followed these children for the first seven years of their lives, further research is needed to detect whether any adverse effects of low levels of alcohol consumption in pregnancy emerge later in childhood,\" professor \u003ca href=\"http://www.ucl.ac.uk/ucl-iris-project/iris/staffprofile.php?ref=YKELL78\">Yvonne Kelly\u003c/a>, of the International Centre for Lifecourse Studies (\u003ca href=\"http://www.ucl.ac.uk/icls\">ICLS)\u003c/a> at University College London, and co-author of the study, said in a statement released by the journal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Department of Health in the U.K. recommends that pregnant women avoid alcohol altogether. But if moms-to-be do choose to drink, the government's advice is \"to not have more than one to two units of alcohol once or twice a week, and not to get drunk,\" according to \u003ca href=\"http://www.nhs.uk/chq/Pages/2270.aspx?CategoryID=54#close\">this\u003c/a> U.K. government site. Under the British government's definition, a small 4-ounce glass of wine is about one-and-a-half units.\u003cstrong>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Experts on fetal alcohol syndrome in the U.S. aren't so convinced by the new findings. \"Failure to see an effect doesn't mean that there isn't one, or that drinking in pregnancy is safe,\" says \u003ca href=\"http://www.med.wayne.edu/prb/fellowship_faculty_sokol.htm\">Dr. Robert Sokol\u003c/a>, director of the C.S. Mott Center for Human Growth and Development at Wayne State University, in an email to The Salt. He explains that the ability to detect effects of low levels of alcohol exposure depends largely on what's measured.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another shortcoming of the study is that people tend to under-report alcohol consumption when they're questioned about it, says \u003ca href=\"http://www.einstein.yu.edu/faculty/10126/david-garry/\">Dr. David Garry\u003c/a> of the Albert Einstein College of Medicine at Yeshiva University. And in this study, women weren't asked to recall how much alcohol they drank until their child was 9 months old, so memories may not have been so clear. It's \"not a convincing study,\" says Garry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"If a woman has had some drinks in pregnancy, I would reassure her that the [child's] development is likely to be normal,\" writes Garry in an email to The Salt. But overall, he says, drinking does pose a risk and should be avoided during pregnancy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Robert Sokol agrees. \"It's still the case that it's safest not to drink during pregnancy,\" Sokol says. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Science In A Scoop: Making Liquid Nitrogen Ice Cream",
"title": "Science In A Scoop: Making Liquid Nitrogen Ice Cream",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60199\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/swittericecream.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/swittericecream-1024x575.jpg\" alt=\"The Smitten Ice Cream shop in the Hayes Valley of San Francisco serves fresh ice cream with one novel ingredient: liquid nitrogen. The shop is located inside of a repurposed shipping container. Photo: Alan Greenblatt/NPR\" width=\"1024\" height=\"575\" class=\"size-large wp-image-60199\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Smitten Ice Cream shop in the Hayes Valley of San Francisco serves fresh ice cream with one novel ingredient: liquid nitrogen. The shop is located inside of a repurposed shipping container. Photo: Alan Greenblatt/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Alan Greenblatt, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/04/17/177614580/science-in-a-scoop-making-liquid-nitrogen-ice-cream\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (4/17/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Robyn Sue Fisher's ice cream shop, \u003ca href=\"http://smittenicecream.com/home/Home.html\">Smitten\u003c/a>, in San Francisco's Hayes Valley, may at moments resemble a high school chemistry lab, but that's because Fisher uses liquid nitrogen to freeze her product.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nitrogen is \"a natural element,\" she notes. \"It's all around us.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What makes it essential to Smitten is the ability to make ice cream fresh to order. You walk up and ask for a chocolate, or a blood orange with pistachio. The liquid nitrogen freezes the ingredients together, and your cup or cone is ready about a minute later.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Each serving is made from only a few ingredients — including none of the gums, egg yolks or other emulsifiers normally needed to keep ice cream frozen on its months-long journey from manufacturer to distributor to store to your home freezer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The mint chip, for example, contains just organic cream and milk, mint and a dash of salt. The first lick is like biting into a mint leaf.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"This is the best ice cream I ever had,\" says my son, who is only 7 but already an experienced ice cream taster, as he spoons his way through an order of chocolate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60198\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 217px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/swittericecreamnitrogen.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/swittericecreamnitrogen-217x290.jpg\" alt=\"The store uses a patented machine to keep ingredients churning and mix in the liquid nitrogen in a safe, controlled manner. Photo: Alan Greenblatt/NPR\" width=\"217\" height=\"290\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-60198\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The store uses a patented machine to keep ingredients churning and mix in the liquid nitrogen in a safe, controlled manner.\u003cbr>Photo: Alan Greenblatt/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>He's not alone in his opinion. At the end of a recent Saturday afternoon that was sunny but not particularly warm, there was a steady line of people eager to order at Smitten, which is located in a repurposed shipping container.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Smitten charges a buck an ounce, but a small amount of the ice cream is rich enough to satisfy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Knowing there are only a few ingredients makes me feel like I can indulge,\" says customer Claire Kensington, the founder of a food, fashion and sex \u003ca href=\"http://www.the3fs.com/\">website\u003c/a>, who'd returned two days after her last serving for some more mint chip.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, there's \u003ca href=\"http://www.polsci.wvu.edu/Henry/Icecream/Icecream.html\">nothing new\u003c/a> about making ice cream with liquid nitrogen. In fact, cooking with the stuff has become so trendy lately that \u003cem>Wired \u003c/em>felt inspired to put together this \u003ca href=\"http://www.wired.co.uk/magazine/archive/2012/02/how-to/cook-with-liquid-nitrogen\">how-to guide\u003c/a>. (As we reported last year, sometimes these culinary experiments can go \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2012/10/10/162636324/liquid-nitrogen-cocktails-smoking-hot-trend-or-unnecessary-risk\">dangerously wrong\u003c/a>.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At New York's \u003ca href=\"http://elevenmadisonpark.com/\">Eleven Madison Park\u003c/a>, guests brought back to the kitchen after dinner are treated to an apple-and-brandy cocktail topped with a frozen dome of foam fashioned with liquid nitrogen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It gives us the opportunity to do a little performance before the guests that's really easy and quick, and at the same time entertaining,\" says Angela Pinkerton, the restaurant's head pastry chef. \"Liquid nitrogen is fun to watch, and everyone's curious about it. It looks cool.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It does look (and feel) cool when clouds of vapors come pouring out of the metal containers where the ice cream's stirring at Smitten. Fisher started serving ice cream out of a kid's red wagon back in 2009. She spent years developing a patented machine that keeps her ingredients churning in a safe, controlled environment. She goes into the techie details in this video:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e52fXpS9YCY]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The stirring, along with the minus 321 F temperature of the liquid nitrogen, keeps ice crystals from forming and is responsible for Smitten's smooth texture, which my son likens to a cross between standard-issue ice cream and whipped cream.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Because it is a different texture than any other ice cream,\" says Kensington, \"it feels like a new experience, like a new treat.\"\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>\u003cbr>\nCopyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "The days of made-to-order ice cream are far from over in San Francisco. A small shop that operates out of an old shipping container uses liquid nitrogen to freeze ingredients together in about a minute for an ultra-fresh, ultra-smooth treat.",
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"description": "The days of made-to-order ice cream are far from over in San Francisco. A small shop that operates out of an old shipping container uses liquid nitrogen to freeze ingredients together in about a minute for an ultra-fresh, ultra-smooth treat.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60199\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/swittericecream.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/swittericecream-1024x575.jpg\" alt=\"The Smitten Ice Cream shop in the Hayes Valley of San Francisco serves fresh ice cream with one novel ingredient: liquid nitrogen. The shop is located inside of a repurposed shipping container. Photo: Alan Greenblatt/NPR\" width=\"1024\" height=\"575\" class=\"size-large wp-image-60199\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Smitten Ice Cream shop in the Hayes Valley of San Francisco serves fresh ice cream with one novel ingredient: liquid nitrogen. The shop is located inside of a repurposed shipping container. Photo: Alan Greenblatt/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Alan Greenblatt, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/04/17/177614580/science-in-a-scoop-making-liquid-nitrogen-ice-cream\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (4/17/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Robyn Sue Fisher's ice cream shop, \u003ca href=\"http://smittenicecream.com/home/Home.html\">Smitten\u003c/a>, in San Francisco's Hayes Valley, may at moments resemble a high school chemistry lab, but that's because Fisher uses liquid nitrogen to freeze her product.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nitrogen is \"a natural element,\" she notes. \"It's all around us.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What makes it essential to Smitten is the ability to make ice cream fresh to order. You walk up and ask for a chocolate, or a blood orange with pistachio. The liquid nitrogen freezes the ingredients together, and your cup or cone is ready about a minute later.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Each serving is made from only a few ingredients — including none of the gums, egg yolks or other emulsifiers normally needed to keep ice cream frozen on its months-long journey from manufacturer to distributor to store to your home freezer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The mint chip, for example, contains just organic cream and milk, mint and a dash of salt. The first lick is like biting into a mint leaf.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"This is the best ice cream I ever had,\" says my son, who is only 7 but already an experienced ice cream taster, as he spoons his way through an order of chocolate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60198\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 217px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/swittericecreamnitrogen.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/swittericecreamnitrogen-217x290.jpg\" alt=\"The store uses a patented machine to keep ingredients churning and mix in the liquid nitrogen in a safe, controlled manner. Photo: Alan Greenblatt/NPR\" width=\"217\" height=\"290\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-60198\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The store uses a patented machine to keep ingredients churning and mix in the liquid nitrogen in a safe, controlled manner.\u003cbr>Photo: Alan Greenblatt/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>He's not alone in his opinion. At the end of a recent Saturday afternoon that was sunny but not particularly warm, there was a steady line of people eager to order at Smitten, which is located in a repurposed shipping container.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Smitten charges a buck an ounce, but a small amount of the ice cream is rich enough to satisfy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Knowing there are only a few ingredients makes me feel like I can indulge,\" says customer Claire Kensington, the founder of a food, fashion and sex \u003ca href=\"http://www.the3fs.com/\">website\u003c/a>, who'd returned two days after her last serving for some more mint chip.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, there's \u003ca href=\"http://www.polsci.wvu.edu/Henry/Icecream/Icecream.html\">nothing new\u003c/a> about making ice cream with liquid nitrogen. In fact, cooking with the stuff has become so trendy lately that \u003cem>Wired \u003c/em>felt inspired to put together this \u003ca href=\"http://www.wired.co.uk/magazine/archive/2012/02/how-to/cook-with-liquid-nitrogen\">how-to guide\u003c/a>. (As we reported last year, sometimes these culinary experiments can go \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2012/10/10/162636324/liquid-nitrogen-cocktails-smoking-hot-trend-or-unnecessary-risk\">dangerously wrong\u003c/a>.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At New York's \u003ca href=\"http://elevenmadisonpark.com/\">Eleven Madison Park\u003c/a>, guests brought back to the kitchen after dinner are treated to an apple-and-brandy cocktail topped with a frozen dome of foam fashioned with liquid nitrogen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It gives us the opportunity to do a little performance before the guests that's really easy and quick, and at the same time entertaining,\" says Angela Pinkerton, the restaurant's head pastry chef. \"Liquid nitrogen is fun to watch, and everyone's curious about it. It looks cool.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It does look (and feel) cool when clouds of vapors come pouring out of the metal containers where the ice cream's stirring at Smitten. Fisher started serving ice cream out of a kid's red wagon back in 2009. She spent years developing a patented machine that keeps her ingredients churning in a safe, controlled environment. She goes into the techie details in this video:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/e52fXpS9YCY'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/e52fXpS9YCY'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The stirring, along with the minus 321 F temperature of the liquid nitrogen, keeps ice crystals from forming and is responsible for Smitten's smooth texture, which my son likens to a cross between standard-issue ice cream and whipped cream.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Because it is a different texture than any other ice cream,\" says Kensington, \"it feels like a new experience, like a new treat.\"\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>\u003cbr>\nCopyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Bands Aren't The Only Things That Incubate At Music Festivals",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59900\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/musicfests.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/musicfests-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"Customers line up for an ice cream van at the 2011 Glastonbury Music Festival in southwest England. Photo: Matt Cardy/Getty Images\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" class=\"size-large wp-image-59900\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Customers line up for an ice cream van at the 2011 Glastonbury Music Festival in southwest England.\u003cbr>Photo: Matt Cardy/Getty Images\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Maria Godoy, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/03/18/174644970/bands-aren-t-the-only-things-that-incubate-at-music-festivals\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (4/12/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Coachella, the massive outdoor music festival that kicks off this weekend in Indio, Calif., has become an \"incubator\" not just for new bands, but for rising food entrepreneurs, according to a \u003ca href=\"http://www.mercurynews.com/music/ci_22998323/coachella-2013-presents-food-rock-stars-too\">story\u003c/a> in the\u003cem> San Jose Mercury News\u003c/em> earlier this week.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We here at The Salt couldn't help but chuckle at the use of the word \"incubator\" to describe the Coachella food scene. It reminded us of two recent studies out of Europe that documented how giant, multiday outdoor gatherings can also be a party site for foodborne illnesses that rock festival goers' bellies.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, to be clear, \u003ca href=\"http://www.coachella.com/\">Coachella\u003c/a> was \u003cem>not\u003c/em> among the events implicated in outbreaks of foodborne illnesses documented by either study. But other well-known bashes were — like the epic \u003ca href=\"http://www.glastonburyfestivals.co.uk/\">Glastonbury Music Festival\u003c/a> in the U.K., and the feminist-oriented \u003ca href=\"http://www.michfest.com/\">Michigan Womyn's Music Festival\u003c/a> here in the U.S.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Both events were named in a \u003ca href=\"http://www.eurosurveillance.org/ViewArticle.aspx?ArticleId=20426\">study\u003c/a> published in the journal \u003cem>Eurosurveillance\u003c/em> that surveyed outbreak reports at massive open-air gatherings held around the world between 1980 and 2012.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Foods like vanilla pastries, coleslaw, crepes, uncooked tofu and unpasteurized milk were blamed for spreading some really bad stomach-churning buggies, including \u003cem>E. coli\u003c/em>, \u003cem>Salmonella\u003c/em>, norovirus and \u003cem>shigella, \u003c/em>as well as hepatitis A. Definitely not the kind of wild party festival attendees were planning on.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A second \u003ca href=\"http://www.hpa.org.uk/webc/HPAwebFile/HPAweb_C/1317138362820\">study\u003c/a>, released by England's Health Protection Agency, sheds light on how bad hygiene practices by mobile caterers can lead to disaster. Over a seven-month period, English public health inspectors gathered more than 1,600 samples of food and other items from caterers at big outdoor events. They found \"unsatisfactory\" levels of bacteria on 8 percent of food samples – \"higher than would be expected if good hygiene procedures were being followed,\" study co-author \u003ca href=\"http://www.hpa.org.uk/ProductsServices/MicrobiologyPathology/SpecialistMicrobiologyServices/FoodWaterEnvironmentalMicrobiologyServices/FWEPorton/\">Caroline Willis\u003c/a> tells The Salt via email.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The finding was interesting,\" writes Willis, a microbiologist with the agency, \"but not surprising, as similar results have been observed in previous studies.\" Cramped conditions and inadequate access to water are both common risk factors among mobile food vendors, she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What \u003cem>was \u003c/em>surprising, she says, was the contamination risk posed by a source that hasn't gotten much attention in the past: the security wristbands that both food vendors and attendees are often required to wear at these events. Fully 20 percent of wristbands sampled were covered with gut-busting bacteria like \u003cem>E. coli\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It makes sense these studies came out of Europe. As the \u003cem>Eurosurveillance\u003c/em> report \u003ca href=\"http://www.eurosurveillance.org/images/dynamic/EE/V18N11/Gautret_tab1.jpg\">notes\u003c/a>, 13 out of 20 of the world's biggest music festivals last year took place on the continent. But the lessons also apply in the U.S.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And if you're heading out to Coachella this weekend, take heart: Tyler Skrove, who oversees food inspections at Coachella for Riverside County, Calif., tells The Salt that inspectors have never had a report of foodborne illness at the festival in the three years he's been on the job.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But food isn't the only source of bad tummy bugs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the \u003ca href=\"http://www.bbc.co.uk/music/festivals/glastonbury/archive/1997/\">1997 Glastonbury festival\u003c/a>, which took place on a farm, \u003cem>E.coli\u003c/em> sickened seven people. After much rain, soaked festivalgoers decided to embrace the all-encompassing mud by dunking themselves in it, Woodstock-style. Unfortunately, cattle had grazed there two days earlier, and left some contaminated presents behind.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dear reader, I was one of these mud-jumping fools. I somehow avoided catching any nasties — though I did get to catch some awesome sets from Radiohead, Beck and Tori Amos. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59901\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/musicfestmud.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/musicfestmud-1024x767.jpg\" alt=\"Looks like these two attendees at the 2009 Music Openair Festival St. Gallen in Switzerland couldn't resist jumping in the mud, either. Photo: Ennio Leanza/AP\" width=\"1024\" height=\"767\" class=\"size-large wp-image-59901\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Looks like these two attendees at the 2009 Music Openair Festival St. Gallen in Switzerland couldn't resist jumping in the mud, either. Photo: Ennio Leanza/AP\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "As the start of Coachella this weekend reminds us, tis the season for outdoor music festivals. But great bands aren't the only things these massive, multiday gatherings can foster. Two recent studies document how such events can be breeding grounds for foodborne illnesses that rock your belly.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59900\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/musicfests.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/musicfests-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"Customers line up for an ice cream van at the 2011 Glastonbury Music Festival in southwest England. Photo: Matt Cardy/Getty Images\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" class=\"size-large wp-image-59900\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Customers line up for an ice cream van at the 2011 Glastonbury Music Festival in southwest England.\u003cbr>Photo: Matt Cardy/Getty Images\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Maria Godoy, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/03/18/174644970/bands-aren-t-the-only-things-that-incubate-at-music-festivals\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (4/12/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Coachella, the massive outdoor music festival that kicks off this weekend in Indio, Calif., has become an \"incubator\" not just for new bands, but for rising food entrepreneurs, according to a \u003ca href=\"http://www.mercurynews.com/music/ci_22998323/coachella-2013-presents-food-rock-stars-too\">story\u003c/a> in the\u003cem> San Jose Mercury News\u003c/em> earlier this week.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We here at The Salt couldn't help but chuckle at the use of the word \"incubator\" to describe the Coachella food scene. It reminded us of two recent studies out of Europe that documented how giant, multiday outdoor gatherings can also be a party site for foodborne illnesses that rock festival goers' bellies.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, to be clear, \u003ca href=\"http://www.coachella.com/\">Coachella\u003c/a> was \u003cem>not\u003c/em> among the events implicated in outbreaks of foodborne illnesses documented by either study. But other well-known bashes were — like the epic \u003ca href=\"http://www.glastonburyfestivals.co.uk/\">Glastonbury Music Festival\u003c/a> in the U.K., and the feminist-oriented \u003ca href=\"http://www.michfest.com/\">Michigan Womyn's Music Festival\u003c/a> here in the U.S.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Both events were named in a \u003ca href=\"http://www.eurosurveillance.org/ViewArticle.aspx?ArticleId=20426\">study\u003c/a> published in the journal \u003cem>Eurosurveillance\u003c/em> that surveyed outbreak reports at massive open-air gatherings held around the world between 1980 and 2012.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Foods like vanilla pastries, coleslaw, crepes, uncooked tofu and unpasteurized milk were blamed for spreading some really bad stomach-churning buggies, including \u003cem>E. coli\u003c/em>, \u003cem>Salmonella\u003c/em>, norovirus and \u003cem>shigella, \u003c/em>as well as hepatitis A. Definitely not the kind of wild party festival attendees were planning on.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A second \u003ca href=\"http://www.hpa.org.uk/webc/HPAwebFile/HPAweb_C/1317138362820\">study\u003c/a>, released by England's Health Protection Agency, sheds light on how bad hygiene practices by mobile caterers can lead to disaster. Over a seven-month period, English public health inspectors gathered more than 1,600 samples of food and other items from caterers at big outdoor events. They found \"unsatisfactory\" levels of bacteria on 8 percent of food samples – \"higher than would be expected if good hygiene procedures were being followed,\" study co-author \u003ca href=\"http://www.hpa.org.uk/ProductsServices/MicrobiologyPathology/SpecialistMicrobiologyServices/FoodWaterEnvironmentalMicrobiologyServices/FWEPorton/\">Caroline Willis\u003c/a> tells The Salt via email.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The finding was interesting,\" writes Willis, a microbiologist with the agency, \"but not surprising, as similar results have been observed in previous studies.\" Cramped conditions and inadequate access to water are both common risk factors among mobile food vendors, she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What \u003cem>was \u003c/em>surprising, she says, was the contamination risk posed by a source that hasn't gotten much attention in the past: the security wristbands that both food vendors and attendees are often required to wear at these events. Fully 20 percent of wristbands sampled were covered with gut-busting bacteria like \u003cem>E. coli\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It makes sense these studies came out of Europe. As the \u003cem>Eurosurveillance\u003c/em> report \u003ca href=\"http://www.eurosurveillance.org/images/dynamic/EE/V18N11/Gautret_tab1.jpg\">notes\u003c/a>, 13 out of 20 of the world's biggest music festivals last year took place on the continent. But the lessons also apply in the U.S.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And if you're heading out to Coachella this weekend, take heart: Tyler Skrove, who oversees food inspections at Coachella for Riverside County, Calif., tells The Salt that inspectors have never had a report of foodborne illness at the festival in the three years he's been on the job.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But food isn't the only source of bad tummy bugs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the \u003ca href=\"http://www.bbc.co.uk/music/festivals/glastonbury/archive/1997/\">1997 Glastonbury festival\u003c/a>, which took place on a farm, \u003cem>E.coli\u003c/em> sickened seven people. After much rain, soaked festivalgoers decided to embrace the all-encompassing mud by dunking themselves in it, Woodstock-style. Unfortunately, cattle had grazed there two days earlier, and left some contaminated presents behind.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dear reader, I was one of these mud-jumping fools. I somehow avoided catching any nasties — though I did get to catch some awesome sets from Radiohead, Beck and Tori Amos. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59901\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/musicfestmud.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/musicfestmud-1024x767.jpg\" alt=\"Looks like these two attendees at the 2009 Music Openair Festival St. Gallen in Switzerland couldn't resist jumping in the mud, either. Photo: Ennio Leanza/AP\" width=\"1024\" height=\"767\" class=\"size-large wp-image-59901\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Looks like these two attendees at the 2009 Music Openair Festival St. Gallen in Switzerland couldn't resist jumping in the mud, either. Photo: Ennio Leanza/AP\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "A Legal Twist In The Effort To Ban Cameras From Livestock Plants",
"title": "A Legal Twist In The Effort To Ban Cameras From Livestock Plants",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59815\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/feedlot.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/feedlot-1024x767.jpg\" alt=\"Cows wait to be milked at a California dairy farm. Photo: Justin Sullivan/Getty Images\" width=\"1024\" height=\"767\" class=\"size-large wp-image-59815\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cows wait to be milked at a California dairy farm. Photo: Justin Sullivan/Getty Images\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Alastair Bland, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/04/10/176843210/a-legal-twist-in-the-effort-to-ban-cameras-from-livestock-plants\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (4/11/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For years, undercover videos documenting animal cruelty at farms and slaughterhouses have cast the nation's meat and dairy farmers in a grim light.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In response, the livestock industry supported legislative efforts in multiple states designed to keep cameras from recording without permission in livestock plants. The Salt \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2012/02/29/147651002/states-crack-down-on-animal-welfare-activists-and-their-undercover-videos\">reported\u003c/a> on these efforts, which activists call \"ag gag\" bills, last year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But recently, the livestock industry seems to have taken a sharp turn in its legislative tactics.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Consider Assembly Bill 343 in California. Introduced in February, this bill would not prohibit a person from seeking employment at a slaughterhouse under false pretenses, which Iowa and several other states have outlawed. Nor would it forbid anyone from using a hidden camera while on the job, which Utah recently made illegal. All that AB 343 would do, in fact, is require that anyone who videotapes or records animal abuse turn over a copy of the evidence to police within 48 hours.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It sounds like the type of bill that animal welfare groups would welcome — but it isn't. Rather, these groups have branded AB 343 as simply a new, and subtler, attempt to stifle undercover investigations of animal cruelty.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The 48-hour time limit is a new twist to stop people from compiling information,\" says Amanda Hitt of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.whistleblower.org/\">Government Accountability Project\u003c/a>, a Washington, D.C.-based group that helps investigate reports of animal abuses.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to Hitt, in order to prove that a serious animal abuse problem is occurring, undercover investigators must gather lengthy documentation. \"You can't prove that animal abuse is systemic and recurring through one snapshot or video of an abused cow,\" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For this reason, says Matt Rice of the group \u003ca href=\"http://www.mercyforanimals.org/\">Mercy for Animals\u003c/a>, \"the last thing we want to do is go to law enforcement at the first sign of animal abuses.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But \u003ca href=\"http://www.calcattlemen.org/about_cca/cca_director_of_government_relations.aspx\">Justin Oldfield\u003c/a>, of the California Cattlemen's Association — AB 343's sponsor — says the bill only intends to protect animals. Rather than allowing witnesses to keep quiet while they continue to film or photograph, Oldfield says, the bill mandates prompt reporting. He says that requirement will allow enforcement agencies to take swift action at the first indication of abused animals.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But not everyone trusts that authorities will respond to such reports of abuse in the absence of uninterrupted undercover investigations lasting weeks or months.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.law.ucla.edu/faculty/all-faculty-profiles/professors/Pages/taimie-l-bryant.aspx\">Taimie Bryant\u003c/a>, a professor at UCLA School of Law who focuses on animal law, tells The Salt that public prosecutors tend to prioritize types of crimes other than those involving animal cruelty.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the past, videos shot by the Humane Society of the United States and turned over to federal prosecutors have resulted in quick action and the filing of charges, \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2013/04/07/us/taping-of-farm-cruelty-is-becoming-the-crime.html?pagewanted=all\">The New York Times\u003c/a> recently reported.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the case mentioned by \u003cem>The Times,\u003c/em> charges were filed before the undercover video was made public. But that's uncommon in animal-related cases, according to\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>Bryant. She says legal action usually only occurs if there is media coverage, public outrage and pressure to prosecute.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Public response [to livestock abuse videos] and clamor are what usually moves these types of cases up the ladder of priorities and motivates prosecutors to take action,\" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even in court, judges are often easy on defendants \"if the evidence of animal abuse is thin,\" Bryant says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 2009, Mercy for Animals publicly revealed seven weeks' worth of footage recorded at the Willet Dairy in Locke, N.Y. The videos show employees cutting off cows' horns and tails without using anesthesia. Bellowing calves are seen dragged by the legs away from their mothers. At least one worker was recorded digging his fingers into a struggling calf's eye socket. Eventually, an employee named Phil Niles was fined several hundred dollars on a misdemeanor animal cruelty conviction.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Cayuga County district attorney who handled the case, Jon Budelmann, tells The Salt that Niles' conviction was based largely on footage that showed Niles hitting a cow on the head with a wrench. Other events and images recorded at the Willet Dairy might also appear cruel to some outsiders, he says. But those events did not provide grounds for criminal prosecution, because \"they were considered normal within the industry,\" Budelmann explains.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Occasionally, federal meat inspectors do speak up for animals — but their superiors don't necessarily listen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Take the case of USDA veterinarian and slaughterhouse inspector \u003ca href=\"http://www.huffingtonpost.com/wayne-pacelle/action-needed-to-better-e_b_488424.html\">Dean Wyatt\u003c/a>. In 2010, Wyatt testified before a House subcommittee that, on several occasions, he was either overruled or threatened with demotion or transfer after he told superiors about instances of extreme animal abuse he'd witnessed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wyatt said he'd seen employees butchering live animals at both Bushway Packing, a veal plant in Vermont, and at Seaboard Foods, a pig slaughterhouse in Oklahoma.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"He went up the chain of command reporting violations [at the Bushway veal slaughterhouse in Vermont], and they did nothing until the Humane Society [of the United States'] video came out,\" says Hitt with the Government Accountability Project.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>California's AB 343 is scheduled to be heard by the state Assembly on April 17. Tennessee, Vermont and Nebraska are also now considering legislation that includes clauses with time limits on turning over recordings of animal abuse.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If these bills become law, they could eliminate the only source of oversight available at dairies and feedlots, warns Bryant at UCLA. She says that federal inspectors assigned to oversee animal welfare only work at slaughterhouses.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"But for dairies and feedlots,\" she says, \"these undercover videos are all we have.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Legislation introduced in several states would require anyone who records evidence of animal abuse to turn it over to authorities within a set period of time. But animal rights activists aren't welcoming these measures: They see the bills as veiled attempts to stifle long-term undercover investigations that can prove a pattern of abuse.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59815\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/feedlot.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/feedlot-1024x767.jpg\" alt=\"Cows wait to be milked at a California dairy farm. Photo: Justin Sullivan/Getty Images\" width=\"1024\" height=\"767\" class=\"size-large wp-image-59815\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cows wait to be milked at a California dairy farm. Photo: Justin Sullivan/Getty Images\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Alastair Bland, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/04/10/176843210/a-legal-twist-in-the-effort-to-ban-cameras-from-livestock-plants\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (4/11/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For years, undercover videos documenting animal cruelty at farms and slaughterhouses have cast the nation's meat and dairy farmers in a grim light.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In response, the livestock industry supported legislative efforts in multiple states designed to keep cameras from recording without permission in livestock plants. The Salt \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2012/02/29/147651002/states-crack-down-on-animal-welfare-activists-and-their-undercover-videos\">reported\u003c/a> on these efforts, which activists call \"ag gag\" bills, last year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But recently, the livestock industry seems to have taken a sharp turn in its legislative tactics.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Consider Assembly Bill 343 in California. Introduced in February, this bill would not prohibit a person from seeking employment at a slaughterhouse under false pretenses, which Iowa and several other states have outlawed. Nor would it forbid anyone from using a hidden camera while on the job, which Utah recently made illegal. All that AB 343 would do, in fact, is require that anyone who videotapes or records animal abuse turn over a copy of the evidence to police within 48 hours.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It sounds like the type of bill that animal welfare groups would welcome — but it isn't. Rather, these groups have branded AB 343 as simply a new, and subtler, attempt to stifle undercover investigations of animal cruelty.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The 48-hour time limit is a new twist to stop people from compiling information,\" says Amanda Hitt of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.whistleblower.org/\">Government Accountability Project\u003c/a>, a Washington, D.C.-based group that helps investigate reports of animal abuses.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to Hitt, in order to prove that a serious animal abuse problem is occurring, undercover investigators must gather lengthy documentation. \"You can't prove that animal abuse is systemic and recurring through one snapshot or video of an abused cow,\" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For this reason, says Matt Rice of the group \u003ca href=\"http://www.mercyforanimals.org/\">Mercy for Animals\u003c/a>, \"the last thing we want to do is go to law enforcement at the first sign of animal abuses.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But \u003ca href=\"http://www.calcattlemen.org/about_cca/cca_director_of_government_relations.aspx\">Justin Oldfield\u003c/a>, of the California Cattlemen's Association — AB 343's sponsor — says the bill only intends to protect animals. Rather than allowing witnesses to keep quiet while they continue to film or photograph, Oldfield says, the bill mandates prompt reporting. He says that requirement will allow enforcement agencies to take swift action at the first indication of abused animals.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But not everyone trusts that authorities will respond to such reports of abuse in the absence of uninterrupted undercover investigations lasting weeks or months.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.law.ucla.edu/faculty/all-faculty-profiles/professors/Pages/taimie-l-bryant.aspx\">Taimie Bryant\u003c/a>, a professor at UCLA School of Law who focuses on animal law, tells The Salt that public prosecutors tend to prioritize types of crimes other than those involving animal cruelty.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the past, videos shot by the Humane Society of the United States and turned over to federal prosecutors have resulted in quick action and the filing of charges, \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2013/04/07/us/taping-of-farm-cruelty-is-becoming-the-crime.html?pagewanted=all\">The New York Times\u003c/a> recently reported.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the case mentioned by \u003cem>The Times,\u003c/em> charges were filed before the undercover video was made public. But that's uncommon in animal-related cases, according to\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>Bryant. She says legal action usually only occurs if there is media coverage, public outrage and pressure to prosecute.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Public response [to livestock abuse videos] and clamor are what usually moves these types of cases up the ladder of priorities and motivates prosecutors to take action,\" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even in court, judges are often easy on defendants \"if the evidence of animal abuse is thin,\" Bryant says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 2009, Mercy for Animals publicly revealed seven weeks' worth of footage recorded at the Willet Dairy in Locke, N.Y. The videos show employees cutting off cows' horns and tails without using anesthesia. Bellowing calves are seen dragged by the legs away from their mothers. At least one worker was recorded digging his fingers into a struggling calf's eye socket. Eventually, an employee named Phil Niles was fined several hundred dollars on a misdemeanor animal cruelty conviction.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Cayuga County district attorney who handled the case, Jon Budelmann, tells The Salt that Niles' conviction was based largely on footage that showed Niles hitting a cow on the head with a wrench. Other events and images recorded at the Willet Dairy might also appear cruel to some outsiders, he says. But those events did not provide grounds for criminal prosecution, because \"they were considered normal within the industry,\" Budelmann explains.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Occasionally, federal meat inspectors do speak up for animals — but their superiors don't necessarily listen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Take the case of USDA veterinarian and slaughterhouse inspector \u003ca href=\"http://www.huffingtonpost.com/wayne-pacelle/action-needed-to-better-e_b_488424.html\">Dean Wyatt\u003c/a>. In 2010, Wyatt testified before a House subcommittee that, on several occasions, he was either overruled or threatened with demotion or transfer after he told superiors about instances of extreme animal abuse he'd witnessed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wyatt said he'd seen employees butchering live animals at both Bushway Packing, a veal plant in Vermont, and at Seaboard Foods, a pig slaughterhouse in Oklahoma.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"He went up the chain of command reporting violations [at the Bushway veal slaughterhouse in Vermont], and they did nothing until the Humane Society [of the United States'] video came out,\" says Hitt with the Government Accountability Project.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>California's AB 343 is scheduled to be heard by the state Assembly on April 17. Tennessee, Vermont and Nebraska are also now considering legislation that includes clauses with time limits on turning over recordings of animal abuse.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If these bills become law, they could eliminate the only source of oversight available at dairies and feedlots, warns Bryant at UCLA. She says that federal inspectors assigned to oversee animal welfare only work at slaughterhouses.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"But for dairies and feedlots,\" she says, \"these undercover videos are all we have.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59797\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/lemons.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/lemons-1024x574.jpg\" alt=\"All you need for preserving lemons is a jar with a tight-fitting lid, lemons and salt -- and time. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\" width=\"1024\" height=\"574\" class=\"size-large wp-image-59797\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">All you need for preserving lemons is a jar with a tight-fitting lid, lemons and salt -- and time.\u003cbr>Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/10593559/t-susan-chang\">T. Susan Chang\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2013/04/08/176577903/preserved-lemons-older-wiser-and-full-of-flavor\">Kitchen Window\u003c/a>, NPR Food (4/10/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Get recipes for \u003ca href=\"#lemons\">Preserved Lemons\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#chicken\">Chicken With Preserved Lemon And Green Olives\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#couscous\">Root Vegetable Couscous With Preserved Lemon\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"#vinaigrette\">Preserved Lemon Vinaigrette\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On many occasions in my longtime relationship with cookbooks, I have had this experience (which will sound familiar, if you like Middle Eastern flavors as much as I do). I'm happily paging through my new Moroccan or Lebanese or Israeli book, lost in dreams of lamb and sumac, saffron and figs. \"Mmmm,\" I murmur over a glossy page, \"\u003cem>that\u003c/em> looks delicious.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I trace my finger down the ingredients list. Shallots, check. Tomatoes, check. Cinnamon stick, check. And then there it is: \u003cem>Preserved lemon\u003c/em>. \"Drat,\" I think. \"Foiled again.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here's the thing about preserved lemons: They're not the sort of thing you can just pick up anywhere. And while they're easy to make, it's not like you can just say, \"Oh, I'll do them tomorrow afternoon, and then we'll have the lamb Thursday.\" Preserved lemons can take a month — certainly not less than two weeks. By that time, I've put aside my North African cookbooks and I'm on to an easy French or Hunan cookbook, or a book that's all about ice cream or pickles. Preserved lemons are not great if you have a short attention span.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On the other hand, they keep practically forever. So if you can just make up your mind one afternoon to spend the 15 minutes it takes to cut, salt and jar them, afterward you can pretty much forget about them for as long as you like, or until you happen to think about Mediterranean citruses again.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The only real problem is that they might be taking up valuable real estate in the fridge, where someone not in the know might mistake them for a project gone wrong and toss them. If this is a habit among members of your family, I recommend that you train them out of it. (\"Whoever throws something out has to taste it first\" is an extremely effective rule.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once you've stashed away your very own golden hoard, you're set. You can pair your preserved lemons with olives (is there any other cuisine which makes such magic with old, salty fruits?) in the traditional, braised fashion. You can dress them up with lashings of butter in potatoes or risottos or couscous. They stand up to garlic, and they cooperate with cilantro. They nicely balance sweet flavors, such as dried apricots or honey.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once, the reason for preserving lemons was the usual one: It was a way of continuing to enjoy the fruit after its season had passed. But the flavor of a preserved lemon needs no justification. It's mellow yet intensely lemony, with none of the nose-tickling bright, high notes of the fresh lemon. The peel — which is the part you use, usually — is soft to the touch and satiny in the mouth. It's translucent, with a muted yellow luster when you hold it to the light, which I like to do just for fun after pulling out the pulp and rinsing off the salt. Sometimes, if the peel happens to be particularly thick, I laterally slice off another quarter-inch layer of pith from the inside, the better to taste and smell that shining cortex.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These days, of course, you can get adorable young lemons pretty much any time you want. (You can even get organic ones by the bag.) They're firm, fresh and tart, and sometimes there really is nothing you want more. But give me my old lemons, mild and mellowed, a little soft and salty, making everything around them seem a little sweeter. They're not the only ones, I hope, that grow more tender as they age.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"lemons\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Preserved Lemons\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>You can find a recipe for preserved lemons just about anywhere, they're that easy. Here's an adaptation of one from Claudia Roden's Arabesque (Knopf, 2005). I used kosher salt, and I can't see that it did any harm.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 lemons\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 tablespoons sea salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Juice of 4 additional lemons, or more to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wash and scrub the lemons. The classic Moroccan way is to cut each lemon in quarters but not right through, so that the pieces are still attached at the stem end, and to stuff each with a tablespoon of salt and squeeze it closed. Put them in a sterilized preserving jar, pressing them down so that they are squashed together, and close the jar.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Leave for 3 to 4 days, by which time the lemons will have disgorged some of their juices and the skins will have softened a little. Open the jar and press the lemons down as much as you can, then add fresh lemon juice to cover them entirely.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Close the jar and leave in a cool place for at least a month. The longer they are left, the better the flavor. (If a piece of lemon is not covered, it develops a white mold that is harmless and just needs to be washed off.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Before using, scoop out and discard the pulp, and rinse the lemon peel under the tap to get rid of the salt.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"chicken\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Chicken With Preserved Lemon And Green Olives\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This is the absolute best-known way to eat preserved lemon, and for good reason. I have two-dozen recipes for chicken with preserved lemon and olives on my shelves, but Claudia Roden's recipe from Arabesque (Knopf, 2005) is my choice for its sheer clarity and sure-footedness.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59798\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 750px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/lemonschicken.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/lemonschicken.jpg\" alt=\"Chicken With Preserved Lemon And Green Olives. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\" width=\"750\" height=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-59798\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chicken With Preserved Lemon And Green Olives. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 onions, grated or very finely chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 to 3 garlic cloves, crushed\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon crushed saffron threads or saffron powder\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon ground ginger\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 chicken, cut up in 8 or 10 pieces\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Salt and black pepper\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Juice of 1/2 lemon\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons chopped coriander\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Peel of 1 large or 2 small preserved lemons\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>12 to 16 green olives\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a wide casserole or heavy-bottomed pan that can hold all the chicken pieces in one layer, heat the oil and put in the onions. Saute, stirring over low heat, until they soften, then stir in the garlic, saffron and ginger.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Put in the chicken pieces, season with salt and pepper, and pour in about 1 cup water. Simmer, covered, turning the pieces over a few times and adding a little more water if it becomes too dry. Lift out the breasts after about 15 minutes and put them to one side. Continue to cook the remaining pieces for another 25 minutes or so, after which time return the breasts to the pan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Stir into the sauce the lemon juice, the chopped coriander and parsley, the preserved lemon peel cut into quarters or strips, and the olives. Simmer uncovered for 5 to 10 minutes, until the reduced sauce is thick and unctuous. If there is too much liquid, lift out the chicken pieces and set aside while you reduce the sauce further, then return the chicken to the pan and heat through.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Present the chicken on a serving dish with the olives and lemon peel on top of the meat.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"couscous\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Root Vegetable Couscous With Preserved Lemon\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>I had my doubts at first about this recipe, which you can find in Yotam Ottolenghi's \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2011/06/26/137402727/for-london-chef-plenty-to-love-about-vegetables\">Plenty\u003c/a> (Chronicle, 2010), under the name \"Ultimate Winter Couscous.\" Could any such medley of starchy roots, I wondered, be made to sing? Well, sing they did, and so decisively that I hoarded the leftovers for lunch. I should also note that the day I made it, the refrigerator shelves were at high tide and I couldn't find my \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2012/06/04/154293245/harissa-the-story-behind-north-africas-favorite-hot-sauce\">harissa\u003c/a>. Instead, I used a Turkish red pepper paste, and it was smashing.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59799\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 411px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/lemonscouscous.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/lemonscouscous.jpg\" alt=\"Root Vegetable Couscous With Preserved Lemon. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\" width=\"411\" height=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-59799\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Root Vegetable Couscous With Preserved Lemon. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 servings (or more)\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 medium carrots, peeled and cut into 3/4-inch chunks\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 medium parsnips, peeled and cut into 3/4-inch chunks\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>8 shallots, peeled\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cinnamon sticks\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 star anise\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 bay leaves\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5 tablespoons olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/4 teaspoon salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon ground ginger\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 teaspoon ground turmeric\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 teaspoon hot paprika\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 teaspoon chili flakes\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 1/2 cups cubed pumpkin or butternut squash (from a 10-ounce squash)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup dried apricots, roughly chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup chickpeas (canned or freshly cooked)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/2 cups chickpea cooking liquid and/or water\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup couscous\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Large pinch saffron\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup boiling vegetable stock\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 tablespoons butter, broken into pieces\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons harissa\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 ounce preserved lemon, finely chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cups cilantro leaves\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place the carrots, parsnips and shallots in a large ovenproof dish. Add the cinnamon sticks, star anise, bay leaves, 4 tablespoons of the oil, 3/4 teaspoon of salt and all the other spices and mix well. Place in the oven and cook for 15 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Add the pumpkin, stir and return to the oven. Continue cooking for about 35 minutes, by which time the vegetables should have softened while retaining a bite. Now add the dried apricots and the chickpeas with their cooking liquid and/or water. Return to the oven and cook for another 10 minutes, or until hot.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>About 15 minutes before the vegetables are ready, put the couscous in a large heatproof bowl with the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil, the saffron and remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt. Pour the boiling stock over the couscous. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and leave for about 10 minutes. Then add the butter and fluff up the couscous with a fork until the butter melts in. Cover again and leave somewhere warm.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To serve, spoon couscous into a deep plate or bowl. Stir the harissa and preserved lemon into the vegetables; taste and add salt if needed. Spoon the vegetables onto the center of the couscous. Finish with plenty of cilantro leaves.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"vinaigrette\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Preserved Lemon Vinaigrette\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>I discovered the original of this one, unexpectedly, in the pages of Hot and Hot Fish Club, a Southern cookbook published by Perseus in 2009. I can't think of a more perfect way to use it than drizzled thickly over a batch of crisp roast potatoes.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59796\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 777px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/lemonsvinaigrette.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/lemonsvinaigrette.jpg\" alt=\"Preserved Lemon Vinaigrette. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\" width=\"777\" height=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-59796\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Preserved Lemon Vinaigrette. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 1/2 cup dressing\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 of a whole preserved lemon peel\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon very finely minced or grated shallot\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons finely chopped parsley\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons finely chopped chives\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons finely chopped thyme\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup lemon juice\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If the lemon peel is thin, simply mince it as finely as you can. If it's thick, divide the lemon peel quarter lengthwise and set each half peel-side down on the cutting board. Steadying the peel by flattening it with the tips of your fingertips, carefully make a lateral slice between the pith and peel and work your way across until you've removed a layer of soft pith. Repeat with the other half, and then you can mince the peels with ease.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Combine the preserved lemon with the other ingredients and give them a good whisk. You may not need to salt at all, given the saltiness of the lemon peel. Use at room temperature.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>About The Author\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nT. Susan Chang regularly reviews cookbooks for \u003cem>The Boston Globe\u003c/em>, NPR.org and the cookbook-indexing website \u003ca href=\"http://www.eatyourbooks.com/\">Eat Your Books\u003c/a>. She's the author of \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Spoonful-Promises-Stories-Recipes-Well-Tempered/dp/0762772506/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1303827445&sr=8-1\">A Spoonful of Promises: Recipes and Stories From a Well-Tempered Table\u003c/a>. For more information, visit her blog, \u003ca href=\"http://tsusanchang.wordpress.com/\">Cookbooks for Dinner\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Salted and aged, the fruit develops mellow yet intensely lemony flavor, with none of the nose-tickling bright, high notes of the fresh version. Though they do take some time, preserved lemons are easy to make, keep practically forever, and make everything around them seem a little sweeter.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59797\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/lemons.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/lemons-1024x574.jpg\" alt=\"All you need for preserving lemons is a jar with a tight-fitting lid, lemons and salt -- and time. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\" width=\"1024\" height=\"574\" class=\"size-large wp-image-59797\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">All you need for preserving lemons is a jar with a tight-fitting lid, lemons and salt -- and time.\u003cbr>Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/10593559/t-susan-chang\">T. Susan Chang\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2013/04/08/176577903/preserved-lemons-older-wiser-and-full-of-flavor\">Kitchen Window\u003c/a>, NPR Food (4/10/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Get recipes for \u003ca href=\"#lemons\">Preserved Lemons\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#chicken\">Chicken With Preserved Lemon And Green Olives\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#couscous\">Root Vegetable Couscous With Preserved Lemon\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"#vinaigrette\">Preserved Lemon Vinaigrette\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On many occasions in my longtime relationship with cookbooks, I have had this experience (which will sound familiar, if you like Middle Eastern flavors as much as I do). I'm happily paging through my new Moroccan or Lebanese or Israeli book, lost in dreams of lamb and sumac, saffron and figs. \"Mmmm,\" I murmur over a glossy page, \"\u003cem>that\u003c/em> looks delicious.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I trace my finger down the ingredients list. Shallots, check. Tomatoes, check. Cinnamon stick, check. And then there it is: \u003cem>Preserved lemon\u003c/em>. \"Drat,\" I think. \"Foiled again.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here's the thing about preserved lemons: They're not the sort of thing you can just pick up anywhere. And while they're easy to make, it's not like you can just say, \"Oh, I'll do them tomorrow afternoon, and then we'll have the lamb Thursday.\" Preserved lemons can take a month — certainly not less than two weeks. By that time, I've put aside my North African cookbooks and I'm on to an easy French or Hunan cookbook, or a book that's all about ice cream or pickles. Preserved lemons are not great if you have a short attention span.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On the other hand, they keep practically forever. So if you can just make up your mind one afternoon to spend the 15 minutes it takes to cut, salt and jar them, afterward you can pretty much forget about them for as long as you like, or until you happen to think about Mediterranean citruses again.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The only real problem is that they might be taking up valuable real estate in the fridge, where someone not in the know might mistake them for a project gone wrong and toss them. If this is a habit among members of your family, I recommend that you train them out of it. (\"Whoever throws something out has to taste it first\" is an extremely effective rule.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once you've stashed away your very own golden hoard, you're set. You can pair your preserved lemons with olives (is there any other cuisine which makes such magic with old, salty fruits?) in the traditional, braised fashion. You can dress them up with lashings of butter in potatoes or risottos or couscous. They stand up to garlic, and they cooperate with cilantro. They nicely balance sweet flavors, such as dried apricots or honey.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once, the reason for preserving lemons was the usual one: It was a way of continuing to enjoy the fruit after its season had passed. But the flavor of a preserved lemon needs no justification. It's mellow yet intensely lemony, with none of the nose-tickling bright, high notes of the fresh lemon. The peel — which is the part you use, usually — is soft to the touch and satiny in the mouth. It's translucent, with a muted yellow luster when you hold it to the light, which I like to do just for fun after pulling out the pulp and rinsing off the salt. Sometimes, if the peel happens to be particularly thick, I laterally slice off another quarter-inch layer of pith from the inside, the better to taste and smell that shining cortex.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These days, of course, you can get adorable young lemons pretty much any time you want. (You can even get organic ones by the bag.) They're firm, fresh and tart, and sometimes there really is nothing you want more. But give me my old lemons, mild and mellowed, a little soft and salty, making everything around them seem a little sweeter. They're not the only ones, I hope, that grow more tender as they age.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"lemons\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Preserved Lemons\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>You can find a recipe for preserved lemons just about anywhere, they're that easy. Here's an adaptation of one from Claudia Roden's Arabesque (Knopf, 2005). I used kosher salt, and I can't see that it did any harm.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 lemons\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 tablespoons sea salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Juice of 4 additional lemons, or more to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wash and scrub the lemons. The classic Moroccan way is to cut each lemon in quarters but not right through, so that the pieces are still attached at the stem end, and to stuff each with a tablespoon of salt and squeeze it closed. Put them in a sterilized preserving jar, pressing them down so that they are squashed together, and close the jar.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Leave for 3 to 4 days, by which time the lemons will have disgorged some of their juices and the skins will have softened a little. Open the jar and press the lemons down as much as you can, then add fresh lemon juice to cover them entirely.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Close the jar and leave in a cool place for at least a month. The longer they are left, the better the flavor. (If a piece of lemon is not covered, it develops a white mold that is harmless and just needs to be washed off.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Before using, scoop out and discard the pulp, and rinse the lemon peel under the tap to get rid of the salt.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"chicken\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Chicken With Preserved Lemon And Green Olives\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This is the absolute best-known way to eat preserved lemon, and for good reason. I have two-dozen recipes for chicken with preserved lemon and olives on my shelves, but Claudia Roden's recipe from Arabesque (Knopf, 2005) is my choice for its sheer clarity and sure-footedness.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59798\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 750px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/lemonschicken.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/lemonschicken.jpg\" alt=\"Chicken With Preserved Lemon And Green Olives. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\" width=\"750\" height=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-59798\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chicken With Preserved Lemon And Green Olives. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 onions, grated or very finely chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 to 3 garlic cloves, crushed\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon crushed saffron threads or saffron powder\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon ground ginger\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 chicken, cut up in 8 or 10 pieces\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Salt and black pepper\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Juice of 1/2 lemon\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons chopped coriander\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Peel of 1 large or 2 small preserved lemons\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>12 to 16 green olives\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a wide casserole or heavy-bottomed pan that can hold all the chicken pieces in one layer, heat the oil and put in the onions. Saute, stirring over low heat, until they soften, then stir in the garlic, saffron and ginger.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Put in the chicken pieces, season with salt and pepper, and pour in about 1 cup water. Simmer, covered, turning the pieces over a few times and adding a little more water if it becomes too dry. Lift out the breasts after about 15 minutes and put them to one side. Continue to cook the remaining pieces for another 25 minutes or so, after which time return the breasts to the pan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Stir into the sauce the lemon juice, the chopped coriander and parsley, the preserved lemon peel cut into quarters or strips, and the olives. Simmer uncovered for 5 to 10 minutes, until the reduced sauce is thick and unctuous. If there is too much liquid, lift out the chicken pieces and set aside while you reduce the sauce further, then return the chicken to the pan and heat through.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Present the chicken on a serving dish with the olives and lemon peel on top of the meat.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"couscous\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Root Vegetable Couscous With Preserved Lemon\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>I had my doubts at first about this recipe, which you can find in Yotam Ottolenghi's \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2011/06/26/137402727/for-london-chef-plenty-to-love-about-vegetables\">Plenty\u003c/a> (Chronicle, 2010), under the name \"Ultimate Winter Couscous.\" Could any such medley of starchy roots, I wondered, be made to sing? Well, sing they did, and so decisively that I hoarded the leftovers for lunch. I should also note that the day I made it, the refrigerator shelves were at high tide and I couldn't find my \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2012/06/04/154293245/harissa-the-story-behind-north-africas-favorite-hot-sauce\">harissa\u003c/a>. Instead, I used a Turkish red pepper paste, and it was smashing.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59799\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 411px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/lemonscouscous.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/lemonscouscous.jpg\" alt=\"Root Vegetable Couscous With Preserved Lemon. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\" width=\"411\" height=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-59799\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Root Vegetable Couscous With Preserved Lemon. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 servings (or more)\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 medium carrots, peeled and cut into 3/4-inch chunks\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 medium parsnips, peeled and cut into 3/4-inch chunks\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>8 shallots, peeled\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cinnamon sticks\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 star anise\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 bay leaves\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5 tablespoons olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/4 teaspoon salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon ground ginger\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 teaspoon ground turmeric\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 teaspoon hot paprika\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 teaspoon chili flakes\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 1/2 cups cubed pumpkin or butternut squash (from a 10-ounce squash)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup dried apricots, roughly chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup chickpeas (canned or freshly cooked)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/2 cups chickpea cooking liquid and/or water\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup couscous\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Large pinch saffron\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup boiling vegetable stock\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 tablespoons butter, broken into pieces\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons harissa\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 ounce preserved lemon, finely chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cups cilantro leaves\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place the carrots, parsnips and shallots in a large ovenproof dish. Add the cinnamon sticks, star anise, bay leaves, 4 tablespoons of the oil, 3/4 teaspoon of salt and all the other spices and mix well. Place in the oven and cook for 15 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Add the pumpkin, stir and return to the oven. Continue cooking for about 35 minutes, by which time the vegetables should have softened while retaining a bite. Now add the dried apricots and the chickpeas with their cooking liquid and/or water. Return to the oven and cook for another 10 minutes, or until hot.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>About 15 minutes before the vegetables are ready, put the couscous in a large heatproof bowl with the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil, the saffron and remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt. Pour the boiling stock over the couscous. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and leave for about 10 minutes. Then add the butter and fluff up the couscous with a fork until the butter melts in. Cover again and leave somewhere warm.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To serve, spoon couscous into a deep plate or bowl. Stir the harissa and preserved lemon into the vegetables; taste and add salt if needed. Spoon the vegetables onto the center of the couscous. Finish with plenty of cilantro leaves.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"vinaigrette\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Preserved Lemon Vinaigrette\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>I discovered the original of this one, unexpectedly, in the pages of Hot and Hot Fish Club, a Southern cookbook published by Perseus in 2009. I can't think of a more perfect way to use it than drizzled thickly over a batch of crisp roast potatoes.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59796\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 777px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/lemonsvinaigrette.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/lemonsvinaigrette.jpg\" alt=\"Preserved Lemon Vinaigrette. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\" width=\"777\" height=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-59796\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Preserved Lemon Vinaigrette. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 1/2 cup dressing\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 of a whole preserved lemon peel\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon very finely minced or grated shallot\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons finely chopped parsley\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons finely chopped chives\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons finely chopped thyme\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup lemon juice\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If the lemon peel is thin, simply mince it as finely as you can. If it's thick, divide the lemon peel quarter lengthwise and set each half peel-side down on the cutting board. Steadying the peel by flattening it with the tips of your fingertips, carefully make a lateral slice between the pith and peel and work your way across until you've removed a layer of soft pith. Repeat with the other half, and then you can mince the peels with ease.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Combine the preserved lemon with the other ingredients and give them a good whisk. You may not need to salt at all, given the saltiness of the lemon peel. Use at room temperature.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>About The Author\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nT. Susan Chang regularly reviews cookbooks for \u003cem>The Boston Globe\u003c/em>, NPR.org and the cookbook-indexing website \u003ca href=\"http://www.eatyourbooks.com/\">Eat Your Books\u003c/a>. She's the author of \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Spoonful-Promises-Stories-Recipes-Well-Tempered/dp/0762772506/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1303827445&sr=8-1\">A Spoonful of Promises: Recipes and Stories From a Well-Tempered Table\u003c/a>. For more information, visit her blog, \u003ca href=\"http://tsusanchang.wordpress.com/\">Cookbooks for Dinner\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "As Promised: Obama Wants To Overhaul Global Anti-Hunger Efforts ",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59728\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 624px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/usaid-hunger.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/usaid-hunger.jpg\" alt=\"Palestinians unload bags of flour donated by USAID, or the United States Agency for International Development, at a depot in the West Bank village of Anin near Jenin, in 2008. Photo: Mohammed Ballas/AP\" width=\"624\" height=\"467\" class=\"size-full wp-image-59728\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Palestinians unload bags of flour donated by USAID, or the United States Agency for International Development, at a depot in the West Bank village of Anin near Jenin, in 2008. Photo: Mohammed Ballas/AP\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Dan Charles, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/04/10/176800377/as-promised-obama-wants-to-overhaul-global-anti-hunger-efforts\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (4/10/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The White House \u003ca href=\"http://www.usaid.gov/foodaidreform\">unveiled\u003c/a> its proposal Wednesday for drastic changes in government programs that donate food to fight hunger abroad — and surprised no one.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As we \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/04/04/a-political-war-brews-over-food-for-peace-aid-program/\">reported\u003c/a> last week, rumors of such an overhaul had been circulating for weeks, arousing both hope and anger among organizations involved in global anti-hunger programs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The rumors, it turns out, were largely on-target — and the groups that previously had expressed \u003ca href=\"http://politicsofpoverty.oxfamamerica.org/2013/04/10/5-ways-the-presidents-budget-would-shift-food-aid/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=5-ways-the-presidents-budget-would-shift-food-aid\">enthusiasm\u003c/a> or \u003ca href=\"http://foodaid.org/news/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/AGFS-Media-Alert-Food-Aid-Reforms-that-Work-4-10-20131.pdf\">skepticism\u003c/a> repeated those views today.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Obama administration wants to increase sharply the share of food aid that the U.S. provides in the form of cash, rather than through food commodities that are bought in the United States and shipped abroad. Humanitarian groups could use that cash to buy food wherever it can be found most cheaply and quickly.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In addition, the U.S. would end the awkward and much-criticized practice known as \"monetization.\" This essentially uses food as a way to transfer cash. The government buys commodities in the U.S. and ships them abroad, only to sell them on local markets in order to fund local nutrition and agricultural development projects. Critics of monetization call it a highly inefficient way to fund such projects.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The change that may matter most for the proposal's chances of success, though, is purely bureaucratic. The Obama administration wants foreign food aid to be funded through the U.S. Agency for International Development instead of the U.S. Department of Agriculture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This change is more than symbolic. For one thing, the agriculture committees of the U.S. Congress would lose authority over these programs — a prospect that is unlikely to please those committees, and will certainly complicate the prospects for this reform on Capitol Hill.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In addition, what people think of this bureaucratic switcheroo seems to depend a great deal on their opinion of these two agencies.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Supporters of the Obama administration's proposal have no love for the USDA. They see it as a knee-jerk defender of domestic farmers, hopelessly out-of-touch when it comes to fighting hunger abroad.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Defenders of the current system, meanwhile, see USAID as a lightweight agency that continually revises its programs to fit the latest political fashion in Washington. They point out, for instance, that USAID's new flagship program in agricultural development, called \u003ca href=\"http://www.feedthefuture.gov/\">Feed the Future\u003c/a>, is active in a relatively small number of countries, most of which are friendly to the U.S. Anti-hunger programs funded through traditional monetized food aid are active in twice as many countries.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "The change that may matter most for the proposal's chances of success, though, is purely bureaucratic. The White House wants foreign food aid to be funded through the U.S. Agency for International Development instead of the U.S. Department of Agriculture.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59728\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 624px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/usaid-hunger.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/usaid-hunger.jpg\" alt=\"Palestinians unload bags of flour donated by USAID, or the United States Agency for International Development, at a depot in the West Bank village of Anin near Jenin, in 2008. Photo: Mohammed Ballas/AP\" width=\"624\" height=\"467\" class=\"size-full wp-image-59728\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Palestinians unload bags of flour donated by USAID, or the United States Agency for International Development, at a depot in the West Bank village of Anin near Jenin, in 2008. Photo: Mohammed Ballas/AP\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Dan Charles, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/04/10/176800377/as-promised-obama-wants-to-overhaul-global-anti-hunger-efforts\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (4/10/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The White House \u003ca href=\"http://www.usaid.gov/foodaidreform\">unveiled\u003c/a> its proposal Wednesday for drastic changes in government programs that donate food to fight hunger abroad — and surprised no one.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As we \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/04/04/a-political-war-brews-over-food-for-peace-aid-program/\">reported\u003c/a> last week, rumors of such an overhaul had been circulating for weeks, arousing both hope and anger among organizations involved in global anti-hunger programs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The rumors, it turns out, were largely on-target — and the groups that previously had expressed \u003ca href=\"http://politicsofpoverty.oxfamamerica.org/2013/04/10/5-ways-the-presidents-budget-would-shift-food-aid/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=5-ways-the-presidents-budget-would-shift-food-aid\">enthusiasm\u003c/a> or \u003ca href=\"http://foodaid.org/news/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/AGFS-Media-Alert-Food-Aid-Reforms-that-Work-4-10-20131.pdf\">skepticism\u003c/a> repeated those views today.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Obama administration wants to increase sharply the share of food aid that the U.S. provides in the form of cash, rather than through food commodities that are bought in the United States and shipped abroad. Humanitarian groups could use that cash to buy food wherever it can be found most cheaply and quickly.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In addition, the U.S. would end the awkward and much-criticized practice known as \"monetization.\" This essentially uses food as a way to transfer cash. The government buys commodities in the U.S. and ships them abroad, only to sell them on local markets in order to fund local nutrition and agricultural development projects. Critics of monetization call it a highly inefficient way to fund such projects.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The change that may matter most for the proposal's chances of success, though, is purely bureaucratic. The Obama administration wants foreign food aid to be funded through the U.S. Agency for International Development instead of the U.S. Department of Agriculture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This change is more than symbolic. For one thing, the agriculture committees of the U.S. Congress would lose authority over these programs — a prospect that is unlikely to please those committees, and will certainly complicate the prospects for this reform on Capitol Hill.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In addition, what people think of this bureaucratic switcheroo seems to depend a great deal on their opinion of these two agencies.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Supporters of the Obama administration's proposal have no love for the USDA. They see it as a knee-jerk defender of domestic farmers, hopelessly out-of-touch when it comes to fighting hunger abroad.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Defenders of the current system, meanwhile, see USAID as a lightweight agency that continually revises its programs to fit the latest political fashion in Washington. They point out, for instance, that USAID's new flagship program in agricultural development, called \u003ca href=\"http://www.feedthefuture.gov/\">Feed the Future\u003c/a>, is active in a relatively small number of countries, most of which are friendly to the U.S. Anti-hunger programs funded through traditional monetized food aid are active in twice as many countries.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Surprise: Organic Apples And Pears Aren't Free Of Antibiotics",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59690\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/organicapples.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/organicapples-1024x767.jpg\" alt=\"Organic apples hang from trees at an orchard near Timberville, Va. Photo: Dean Fosdick/AP\" width=\"1024\" height=\"767\" class=\"size-large wp-image-59690\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Organic apples hang from trees at an orchard near Timberville, Va. Photo: Dean Fosdick/AP\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Maria Godoy, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/04/08/176606069/surprise-organic-apples-and-pears-aren-t-free-of-antibiotics\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (4/10/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Apples and especially pears are vulnerable to a nasty bacterial infection called fire blight that, left unchecked, can spread quickly, killing fruit trees and sometimes devastating whole orchards.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's basically like a gangrene of your limbs. It's hard to stop\" once it takes a hold, says \u003ca href=\"http://bpp.oregonstate.edu/johnson\">Ken Johnson\u003c/a>, a plant pathologist at Oregon State University.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's such a big threat that for decades, growers have seen two antibiotics, streptomycin and oxytetracycline, as vital weapons in the fight to control the disease – even on organic apples and pears.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But their use has raised questions about transparency in organic labeling, amid concerns about the overuse of antibiotics in food production.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"This isn't what consumers expect out of organics,\" says \u003ca href=\"http://www.consumersunion.org/experts/urvashi-rangan/\">Urvashi Rangan\u003c/a>, the director of consumer safety and sustainability at Consumer Reports. \"Organic is supposed to be consistent in meaning,\" she tells The Salt.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here's the back story.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When the U.S. Department of Agriculture's national organic labeling standards went into effect in 2002, the two antibiotics were \u003ca href=\"http://www.ams.usda.gov/AMSv1.0/NOPPetitionedSubstancesDatabase\">listed\u003c/a> as synthetic materials approved for use in organic apple and pear production. Items on that list are revisited on a periodic basis. The notion behind the exemption for these two fruit crops was that, in-between reviews, growers would devise effective non-antibiotic-based methods for controlling fire blight.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the antibiotic exemption is set to expire in October 2014. This week, the National Organic Standards Board is meeting in Portland, Ore., to decide on a petition from organic growers to extend that exemption one more time. Consumers Union, the policy arm of Consumer Reports, is among the groups who say the answer should be a resounding no.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Antibiotics have been used in American plant and livestock agriculture since the mid-20th century. About 80 percent of all antibiotics used in the U.S. go to livestock – not just to treat disease and prevent infections, but also, primarily, to help animals put on more weight.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That heavy usage has been widely blamed for promoting the spread of antibiotic-resistant bugs. And resistance can jump from bacteria that infect livestock to microbes that sicken people. The problem of drug resistance has led to widespread calls for reining in the use of antibiotics on farms, in order to preserve the medicines' effectiveness in treating human disease.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But antibiotic use in plant agriculture is far more limited – just a little over one-tenth of 1 percent of total agricultural use, according to Virginia Stockwell, a plant pathologist at Oregon State University who studies fire blight management. Put another way, about \u003ca href=\"http://www.pewhealth.org/other-resource/record-high-antibiotic-sales-for-meat-and-poultry-production-85899449119\">30 million pounds\u003c/a> of antibiotics were used in livestock in 2011. By comparison, 36,000 pounds of antibiotics were sprayed on fruit trees – mostly on pears and apples, according to \u003ca href=\"http://www.oie.int/eng/A_AMR2013/Presentations/S2_3_VirginiaStockwell.pdf\">data\u003c/a> from the USDA's National Agricultural Statistics Service.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the U.S., up to 16 percent of all apple acreage and up to 40 percent of all pear acreage gets sprayed with antibiotics each year, she says, citing data from NASS. That's including all organic and conventionally grown fruit. Not every orchard gets sprayed every year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"There have never been any cases where we've been able to link an antibiotic-resistant pathogen in humans to orchards,\" says Stockwell, who recently conducted \u003ca href=\"http://www.tfrec.wsu.edu/pdfs/P2631.pdf\">a review\u003c/a> of the literature on the subject for the National Organic Safety Board.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Research suggests both of the antibiotics used on fruit crops are rendered inactive in soils, she says, minimizing concerns that residues that drift to the ground after spraying would be a problem. Any \u003ca href=\"file:///H:/2013/APRIL/antbiotics/True%20or%20false:%20If%20a%20food%20is%20USDA%20certified%20organic,%20that%20means%20it%20was%20raised%20without%20the%20use%20of%20antibiotics.\">residue\u003c/a> on fruit, she says, is miniscule.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59691\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 217px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/pearfireblights.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/pearfireblights-217x290.jpg\" alt=\"Fire blight symptoms on pear leaves. Pears are particularly susceptible to the disease. Photo: Robert Burns/Texas AgriLife Extension Service/via flickr\" width=\"217\" height=\"290\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-59691\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fire blight symptoms on pear leaves. Pears are particularly susceptible to the disease. \u003ca href=\"http://www.flickr.com/photos/agrilifetoday/5794253698/in/photostream/\">Photo: Robert Burns/Texas AgriLife Extension Service/via flickr\u003c/a>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>That said, fire blight resistance to streptomycin \u003cem>is\u003c/em> a concern for growers — it's now pretty common in orchards in the Pacific Northwest. That's one reason why growers have scaled back their spraying over the past two decades, Stockwell says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Everybody is committed to eliminating this use,\" says \u003ca href=\"http://csanr.wsu.edu/pages/Granatstein\">David Granatstein\u003c/a>, a sustainable agricultural specialist with Washington State University, who works with organic farmers in his state.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But before all organic growers can completely give up antibiotics, he says, they need to have effective alternatives for preventing the devastation of fire blight.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Aggressive pruning has helped reduce reliance on antibiotic spraying. So has the use of biological controls, like bacteria that compete \u003cem>with \u003c/em>\u003cem>e.amylovora\u003c/em>\u003cem>, the microbe that causes fire blight,\u003c/em>\u003cem> \u003c/em>for nutrients on blossoms. But it's not enough.\u003cem>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Oregon State's Ken Johnson is one of several researchers overseeing field trials of two promising antibiotic alternatives. \"I'd say we're fairly close,\" Johnson tells The Salt.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He's set to testify about these alternatives before the National Organic Standards Board on Wednesday. One option, called Blossom Protect, is a yeast-like fungus that blocks the fire blight bacteria from colonizing the blossom. It was registered for use with the Environmental Protection Agency late into last year's growing season, so this will be the first year lots of farmers can try it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The other alternative, a copper sulfate that can be applied during bloom times without harming the fruit, has yet to be registered with the agency. Both are highly promising, according to Johnson – but they need more testing. So 2014, he says, is still a bit too soon to say goodbye to antibiotics.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Most people,\" he says, \"when their livelihoods depend on it, want to see a few years of positive data before they're convinced that it is the right thing for them.\"\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>\u003cbr>\nCopyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Both fruits are vulnerable to a nasty disease called fire blight that can devastate orchards. So organic labeling standards allow for antibiotics to be used on apple and pear trees. That exemption is set to end in 2014 — but growers say they need a little more time.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59690\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/organicapples.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/organicapples-1024x767.jpg\" alt=\"Organic apples hang from trees at an orchard near Timberville, Va. Photo: Dean Fosdick/AP\" width=\"1024\" height=\"767\" class=\"size-large wp-image-59690\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Organic apples hang from trees at an orchard near Timberville, Va. Photo: Dean Fosdick/AP\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Maria Godoy, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/04/08/176606069/surprise-organic-apples-and-pears-aren-t-free-of-antibiotics\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (4/10/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Apples and especially pears are vulnerable to a nasty bacterial infection called fire blight that, left unchecked, can spread quickly, killing fruit trees and sometimes devastating whole orchards.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's basically like a gangrene of your limbs. It's hard to stop\" once it takes a hold, says \u003ca href=\"http://bpp.oregonstate.edu/johnson\">Ken Johnson\u003c/a>, a plant pathologist at Oregon State University.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's such a big threat that for decades, growers have seen two antibiotics, streptomycin and oxytetracycline, as vital weapons in the fight to control the disease – even on organic apples and pears.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But their use has raised questions about transparency in organic labeling, amid concerns about the overuse of antibiotics in food production.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"This isn't what consumers expect out of organics,\" says \u003ca href=\"http://www.consumersunion.org/experts/urvashi-rangan/\">Urvashi Rangan\u003c/a>, the director of consumer safety and sustainability at Consumer Reports. \"Organic is supposed to be consistent in meaning,\" she tells The Salt.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here's the back story.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When the U.S. Department of Agriculture's national organic labeling standards went into effect in 2002, the two antibiotics were \u003ca href=\"http://www.ams.usda.gov/AMSv1.0/NOPPetitionedSubstancesDatabase\">listed\u003c/a> as synthetic materials approved for use in organic apple and pear production. Items on that list are revisited on a periodic basis. The notion behind the exemption for these two fruit crops was that, in-between reviews, growers would devise effective non-antibiotic-based methods for controlling fire blight.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the antibiotic exemption is set to expire in October 2014. This week, the National Organic Standards Board is meeting in Portland, Ore., to decide on a petition from organic growers to extend that exemption one more time. Consumers Union, the policy arm of Consumer Reports, is among the groups who say the answer should be a resounding no.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Antibiotics have been used in American plant and livestock agriculture since the mid-20th century. About 80 percent of all antibiotics used in the U.S. go to livestock – not just to treat disease and prevent infections, but also, primarily, to help animals put on more weight.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That heavy usage has been widely blamed for promoting the spread of antibiotic-resistant bugs. And resistance can jump from bacteria that infect livestock to microbes that sicken people. The problem of drug resistance has led to widespread calls for reining in the use of antibiotics on farms, in order to preserve the medicines' effectiveness in treating human disease.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But antibiotic use in plant agriculture is far more limited – just a little over one-tenth of 1 percent of total agricultural use, according to Virginia Stockwell, a plant pathologist at Oregon State University who studies fire blight management. Put another way, about \u003ca href=\"http://www.pewhealth.org/other-resource/record-high-antibiotic-sales-for-meat-and-poultry-production-85899449119\">30 million pounds\u003c/a> of antibiotics were used in livestock in 2011. By comparison, 36,000 pounds of antibiotics were sprayed on fruit trees – mostly on pears and apples, according to \u003ca href=\"http://www.oie.int/eng/A_AMR2013/Presentations/S2_3_VirginiaStockwell.pdf\">data\u003c/a> from the USDA's National Agricultural Statistics Service.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the U.S., up to 16 percent of all apple acreage and up to 40 percent of all pear acreage gets sprayed with antibiotics each year, she says, citing data from NASS. That's including all organic and conventionally grown fruit. Not every orchard gets sprayed every year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"There have never been any cases where we've been able to link an antibiotic-resistant pathogen in humans to orchards,\" says Stockwell, who recently conducted \u003ca href=\"http://www.tfrec.wsu.edu/pdfs/P2631.pdf\">a review\u003c/a> of the literature on the subject for the National Organic Safety Board.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Research suggests both of the antibiotics used on fruit crops are rendered inactive in soils, she says, minimizing concerns that residues that drift to the ground after spraying would be a problem. Any \u003ca href=\"file:///H:/2013/APRIL/antbiotics/True%20or%20false:%20If%20a%20food%20is%20USDA%20certified%20organic,%20that%20means%20it%20was%20raised%20without%20the%20use%20of%20antibiotics.\">residue\u003c/a> on fruit, she says, is miniscule.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59691\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 217px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/pearfireblights.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/pearfireblights-217x290.jpg\" alt=\"Fire blight symptoms on pear leaves. Pears are particularly susceptible to the disease. Photo: Robert Burns/Texas AgriLife Extension Service/via flickr\" width=\"217\" height=\"290\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-59691\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fire blight symptoms on pear leaves. Pears are particularly susceptible to the disease. \u003ca href=\"http://www.flickr.com/photos/agrilifetoday/5794253698/in/photostream/\">Photo: Robert Burns/Texas AgriLife Extension Service/via flickr\u003c/a>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>That said, fire blight resistance to streptomycin \u003cem>is\u003c/em> a concern for growers — it's now pretty common in orchards in the Pacific Northwest. That's one reason why growers have scaled back their spraying over the past two decades, Stockwell says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Everybody is committed to eliminating this use,\" says \u003ca href=\"http://csanr.wsu.edu/pages/Granatstein\">David Granatstein\u003c/a>, a sustainable agricultural specialist with Washington State University, who works with organic farmers in his state.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But before all organic growers can completely give up antibiotics, he says, they need to have effective alternatives for preventing the devastation of fire blight.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Aggressive pruning has helped reduce reliance on antibiotic spraying. So has the use of biological controls, like bacteria that compete \u003cem>with \u003c/em>\u003cem>e.amylovora\u003c/em>\u003cem>, the microbe that causes fire blight,\u003c/em>\u003cem> \u003c/em>for nutrients on blossoms. But it's not enough.\u003cem>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Oregon State's Ken Johnson is one of several researchers overseeing field trials of two promising antibiotic alternatives. \"I'd say we're fairly close,\" Johnson tells The Salt.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He's set to testify about these alternatives before the National Organic Standards Board on Wednesday. One option, called Blossom Protect, is a yeast-like fungus that blocks the fire blight bacteria from colonizing the blossom. It was registered for use with the Environmental Protection Agency late into last year's growing season, so this will be the first year lots of farmers can try it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The other alternative, a copper sulfate that can be applied during bloom times without harming the fruit, has yet to be registered with the agency. Both are highly promising, according to Johnson – but they need more testing. So 2014, he says, is still a bit too soon to say goodbye to antibiotics.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Most people,\" he says, \"when their livelihoods depend on it, want to see a few years of positive data before they're convinced that it is the right thing for them.\"\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>\u003cbr>\nCopyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"link": "/radio/program/bbc-world-service",
"subscribe": {
"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/global-news-podcast/id135067274?mt=2",
"tuneIn": "https://tunein.com/radio/BBC-World-Service-p455581/",
"rss": "https://podcasts.files.bbci.co.uk/p02nq0gn.rss"
}
},
"californiareport": {
"id": "californiareport",
"title": "The California Report",
"tagline": "California, day by day",
"info": "KQED’s statewide radio news program providing daily coverage of issues, trends and public policy decisions.",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/The-California-Report-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "/californiareport",
"meta": {
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"source": "kqed",
"order": 8
},
"link": "/californiareport",
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"amazon": "https://music.amazon.com/podcasts/26099305-72af-4542-9dde-ac1807fe36d5/kqed-s-the-california-report",
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}
},
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"id": "californiareportmagazine",
"title": "The California Report Magazine",
"tagline": "Your state, your stories",
"info": "Every week, The California Report Magazine takes you on a road trip for the ears: to visit the places and meet the people who make California unique. The in-depth storytelling podcast from the California Report.",
"airtime": "FRI 4:30pm-5pm, 6:30pm-7pm, 11pm-11:30pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/The-California-Report-Magazine-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "/californiareportmagazine",
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"order": 10
},
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM3NjkwNjk1OTAz",
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}
},
"city-arts": {
"id": "city-arts",
"title": "City Arts & Lectures",
"info": "A one-hour radio program to hear celebrated writers, artists and thinkers address contemporary ideas and values, often discussing the creative process. Please note: tapes or transcripts are not available",
"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/05/cityartsandlecture-300x300.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.cityarts.net/",
"airtime": "SUN 1pm-2pm, TUE 10pm, WED 1am",
"meta": {
"site": "news",
"source": "City Arts & Lectures"
},
"link": "https://www.cityarts.net",
"subscribe": {
"tuneIn": "https://tunein.com/radio/City-Arts-and-Lectures-p692/",
"rss": "https://www.cityarts.net/feed/"
}
},
"closealltabs": {
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"officialWebsiteLink": "/podcasts/closealltabs",
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"order": 1
},
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"title": "Code Switch / Life Kit",
"info": "\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em>, which listeners will hear in the first part of the hour, has fearless and much-needed conversations about race. Hosted by journalists of color, the show tackles the subject of race head-on, exploring how it impacts every part of society — from politics and pop culture to history, sports and more.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em>, which will be in the second part of the hour, guides you through spaces and feelings no one prepares you for — from finances to mental health, from workplace microaggressions to imposter syndrome, from relationships to parenting. The show features experts with real world experience and shares their knowledge. Because everyone needs a little help being human.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/510312/codeswitch\">\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/lifekit\">\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />",
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"meta": {
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cubnByLm9yZy9yc3MvcG9kY2FzdC5waHA_aWQ9NTEwMzEy",
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},
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"id": "commonwealth-club",
"title": "Commonwealth Club of California Podcast",
"info": "The Commonwealth Club of California is the nation's oldest and largest public affairs forum. As a non-partisan forum, The Club brings to the public airwaves diverse viewpoints on important topics. The Club's weekly radio broadcast - the oldest in the U.S., dating back to 1924 - is carried across the nation on public radio stations and is now podcasting. Our website archive features audio of our recent programs, as well as selected speeches from our long and distinguished history. This podcast feed is usually updated twice a week and is always un-edited.",
"airtime": "THU 10pm, FRI 1am",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Commonwealth-Club-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
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"meta": {
"site": "news",
"source": "Commonwealth Club of California"
},
"link": "/radio/program/commonwealth-club",
"subscribe": {
"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/commonwealth-club-of-california-podcast/id976334034?mt=2",
"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cDovL3d3dy5jb21tb253ZWFsdGhjbHViLm9yZy9hdWRpby9wb2RjYXN0L3dlZWtseS54bWw",
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}
},
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"id": "forum",
"title": "Forum",
"tagline": "The conversation starts here",
"info": "KQED’s live call-in program discussing local, state, national and international issues, as well as in-depth interviews.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 9am-11am, 10pm-11pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Forum-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
"imageAlt": "KQED Forum with Mina Kim and Alexis Madrigal",
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"meta": {
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"source": "kqed",
"order": 9
},
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM5NTU3MzgxNjMz",
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},
"freakonomics-radio": {
"id": "freakonomics-radio",
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"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/05/freakonomicsRadio.png",
"officialWebsiteLink": "http://freakonomics.com/",
"airtime": "SUN 1am-2am, SAT 3pm-4pm",
"meta": {
"site": "radio",
"source": "WNYC"
},
"link": "/radio/program/freakonomics-radio",
"subscribe": {
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/freakonomics-radio/id354668519",
"tuneIn": "https://tunein.com/podcasts/WNYC-Podcasts/Freakonomics-Radio-p272293/",
"rss": "https://feeds.feedburner.com/freakonomicsradio"
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},
"fresh-air": {
"id": "fresh-air",
"title": "Fresh Air",
"info": "Hosted by Terry Gross, \u003cem>Fresh Air from WHYY\u003c/em> is the Peabody Award-winning weekday magazine of contemporary arts and issues. One of public radio's most popular programs, Fresh Air features intimate conversations with today's biggest luminaries.",
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"link": "/radio/program/fresh-air",
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=214089682&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory",
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"rss": "https://feeds.npr.org/381444908/podcast.xml"
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"here-and-now": {
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"info": "A live production of NPR and WBUR Boston, in collaboration with stations across the country, Here & Now reflects the fluid world of news as it's happening in the middle of the day, with timely, in-depth news, interviews and conversation. Hosted by Robin Young, Jeremy Hobson and Tonya Mosley.",
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"rss": "https://feeds.npr.org/510051/podcast.xml"
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},
"hidden-brain": {
"id": "hidden-brain",
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"info": "Shankar Vedantam uses science and storytelling to reveal the unconscious patterns that drive human behavior, shape our choices and direct our relationships.",
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"airtime": "SUN 7pm-8pm",
"meta": {
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"source": "NPR"
},
"link": "/radio/program/hidden-brain",
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},
"how-i-built-this": {
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"title": "How I Built This with Guy Raz",
"info": "Guy Raz dives into the stories behind some of the world's best known companies. How I Built This weaves a narrative journey about innovators, entrepreneurs and idealists—and the movements they built.",
"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/05/howIBuiltThis.png",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.npr.org/podcasts/510313/how-i-built-this",
"airtime": "SUN 7:30pm-8pm",
"meta": {
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"source": "npr"
},
"link": "/radio/program/how-i-built-this",
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"npr": "https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/3zxy",
"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/how-i-built-this-with-guy-raz/id1150510297?mt=2",
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},
"hyphenacion": {
"id": "hyphenacion",
"title": "Hyphenación",
"tagline": "Where conversation and cultura meet",
"info": "What kind of no sabo word is Hyphenación? For us, it’s about living within a hyphenation. Like being a third-gen Mexican-American from the Texas border now living that Bay Area Chicano life. Like Xorje! Each week we bring together a couple of hyphenated Latinos to talk all about personal life choices: family, careers, relationships, belonging … everything is on the table. ",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2025/03/Hyphenacion_FinalAssets_PodcastTile.png",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "/podcasts/hyphenacion",
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"order": 15
},
"link": "/podcasts/hyphenacion",
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},
"jerrybrown": {
"id": "jerrybrown",
"title": "The Political Mind of Jerry Brown",
"tagline": "Lessons from a lifetime in politics",
"info": "The Political Mind of Jerry Brown brings listeners the wisdom of the former Governor, Mayor, and presidential candidate. Scott Shafer interviewed Brown for more than 40 hours, covering the former governor's life and half-century in the political game – and Brown has some lessons he'd like to share. ",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/The-Political-Mind-of-Jerry-Brown-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "/podcasts/jerrybrown",
"meta": {
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"source": "kqed",
"order": 18
},
"link": "/podcasts/jerrybrown",
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/id1492194549",
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}
},
"latino-usa": {
"id": "latino-usa",
"title": "Latino USA",
"airtime": "MON 1am-2am, SUN 6pm-7pm",
"info": "Latino USA, the radio journal of news and culture, is the only national, English-language radio program produced from a Latino perspective.",
"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/latinoUsa.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "http://latinousa.org/",
"meta": {
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"source": "npr"
},
"link": "/radio/program/latino-usa",
"subscribe": {
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=79681317&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory",
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"rss": "https://feeds.npr.org/510016/podcast.xml"
}
},
"marketplace": {
"id": "marketplace",
"title": "Marketplace",
"info": "Our flagship program, helmed by Kai Ryssdal, examines what the day in money delivered, through stories, conversations, newsworthy numbers and more. Updated Monday through Friday at about 3:30 p.m. PT.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 4pm-4:30pm, MON-WED 6:30pm-7pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Marketplace-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.marketplace.org/",
"meta": {
"site": "news",
"source": "American Public Media"
},
"link": "/radio/program/marketplace",
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"rss": "https://feeds.publicradio.org/public_feeds/marketplace-pm/rss/rss"
}
},
"masters-of-scale": {
"id": "masters-of-scale",
"title": "Masters of Scale",
"info": "Masters of Scale is an original podcast in which LinkedIn co-founder and Greylock Partner Reid Hoffman sets out to describe and prove theories that explain how great entrepreneurs take their companies from zero to a gazillion in ingenious fashion.",
"airtime": "Every other Wednesday June 12 through October 16 at 8pm (repeats Thursdays at 2am)",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "https://mastersofscale.com/",
"meta": {
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"source": "WaitWhat"
},
"link": "/radio/program/masters-of-scale",
"subscribe": {
"apple": "http://mastersofscale.app.link/",
"rss": "https://rss.art19.com/masters-of-scale"
}
},
"mindshift": {
"id": "mindshift",
"title": "MindShift",
"tagline": "A podcast about the future of learning and how we raise our kids",
"info": "The MindShift podcast explores the innovations in education that are shaping how kids learn. Hosts Ki Sung and Katrina Schwartz introduce listeners to educators, researchers, parents and students who are developing effective ways to improve how kids learn. We cover topics like how fed-up administrators are developing surprising tactics to deal with classroom disruptions; how listening to podcasts are helping kids develop reading skills; the consequences of overparenting; and why interdisciplinary learning can engage students on all ends of the traditional achievement spectrum. This podcast is part of the MindShift education site, a division of KQED News. KQED is an NPR/PBS member station based in San Francisco. You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Mindshift-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
"imageAlt": "KQED MindShift: How We Will Learn",
"officialWebsiteLink": "/mindshift/",
"meta": {
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"source": "kqed",
"order": 12
},
"link": "/podcasts/mindshift",
"subscribe": {
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM1NzY0NjAwNDI5",
"npr": "https://www.npr.org/podcasts/464615685/mind-shift-podcast",
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}
},
"morning-edition": {
"id": "morning-edition",
"title": "Morning Edition",
"info": "\u003cem>Morning Edition\u003c/em> takes listeners around the country and the world with multi-faceted stories and commentaries every weekday. Hosts Steve Inskeep, David Greene and Rachel Martin bring you the latest breaking news and features to prepare you for the day.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 3am-9am",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Morning-Edition-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.npr.org/programs/morning-edition/",
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"link": "/radio/program/morning-edition"
},
"onourwatch": {
"id": "onourwatch",
"title": "On Our Watch",
"tagline": "Deeply-reported investigative journalism",
"info": "For decades, the process for how police police themselves has been inconsistent – if not opaque. In some states, like California, these proceedings were completely hidden. After a new police transparency law unsealed scores of internal affairs files, our reporters set out to examine these cases and the shadow world of police discipline. On Our Watch brings listeners into the rooms where officers are questioned and witnesses are interrogated to find out who this system is really protecting. Is it the officers, or the public they've sworn to serve?",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/On-Our-Watch-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
"imageAlt": "On Our Watch from NPR and KQED",
"officialWebsiteLink": "/podcasts/onourwatch",
"meta": {
"site": "news",
"source": "kqed",
"order": 11
},
"link": "/podcasts/onourwatch",
"subscribe": {
"apple": "https://podcasts.apple.com/podcast/id1567098962",
"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5ucHIub3JnLzUxMDM2MC9wb2RjYXN0LnhtbD9zYz1nb29nbGVwb2RjYXN0cw",
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"stitcher": "https://www.stitcher.com/show/on-our-watch",
"rss": "https://feeds.npr.org/510360/podcast.xml"
}
},
"on-the-media": {
"id": "on-the-media",
"title": "On The Media",
"info": "Our weekly podcast explores how the media 'sausage' is made, casts an incisive eye on fluctuations in the marketplace of ideas, and examines threats to the freedom of information and expression in America and abroad. For one hour a week, the show tries to lift the veil from the process of \"making media,\" especially news media, because it's through that lens that we see the world and the world sees us",
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"info": "One of public radio's most dynamic voices, Sam Sanders helped launch The NPR Politics Podcast and hosted NPR's hit show It's Been A Minute. Now, the award-winning host returns with something brand new, The Sam Sanders Show. Every week, Sam Sanders and friends dig into the culture that shapes our lives: what's driving the biggest trends, how artists really think, and even the memes you can't stop scrolling past. Sam is beloved for his way of unpacking the world and bringing you up close to fresh currents and engaging conversations. The Sam Sanders Show is smart, funny and always a good time.",
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