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"bio": "Maria Finn lives on a floating houseboat in Sausalito, where she grows a rooftop container garden, despite the salty winds. She’s the author of the book, \u003ca href=\"http://www.bookpassage.com/book/9780789320278\">“A Little Piece of Earth, How to Grow Your Own Food in Small Spaces\u003c/a>” (Rizzoli, 2010), and the memoir, \u003ca href=\"http://www.bookpassage.com/book/9781565125179\">“Hold Me Tight and Tango Me Home”\u003c/a> (Algonquin Books, 2010) , which is in development for a television series with Fox Studios. Her novel-in-progress, “Sea Legs and Fish Nets,” loosely based on her experiences working on an all female fishing boat in Alaska, is a finalist for the Pen/Bellwether Prize, founded by Barbara Kingsolver for novels that address issues of social justice. She writes for Sunset Magazine, Afar Magazine, The Wall Street Journal, and many other publications. Visit her website at \u003ca href=\"http://www.mariafinn.com/\">mariafinn.com\u003c/a> and follow her on Twitter \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/#!/mariafinn\">@mariafinn\u003c/a>.",
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"bio": "Fresh to the food scene, I made a career change from education to food and media, after studying Culinary Arts and Broadcast Journalism at SF City College. Landing my first gig as a KQED intern for \u003cem>Essential Pépin\u003c/em>, later recruited as an Associate Producer for seasons 6 and 7 of \u003cem>Check, Please! Bay Area\u003c/em>. As a first-time Photography Editor, I collaborated with CCA Chef Instructor Al Meyer on his first culinary textbook \u003cem>The Working Garde Manger\u003c/em>. Now, in an attempt to manage the full plate of emerging talent in the Bay Area, I’m developing \u003cem>Kenny Kusina\u003c/em>, a culinary and media arts studio which produces several web series; \u003cem>FoodCentric\u003c/em> covering food news, \u003cem>Fusion\u003c/em> a music and arts channel, \u003cem>Kulinarya\u003c/em> a focus on Filipino-American food, and a live show called \u003cem>Studio Gourmet\u003c/em> featuring the city’s top Chefs.\r\nView my channel on \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/user/kennykusina\">YouTube\u003c/a> and follow me on Twitter \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/KennyKusina\">@kennykusina\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/pages/Kenny-Kusina/137578689595778\">Facebook\u003c/a>.",
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"disqusTitle": "Tamale Class at La Cocina -- Just in Time for Christmas",
"title": "Tamale Class at La Cocina -- Just in Time for Christmas",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_53121\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/tamaleplate-new.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-53121\" title=\"Tamales at La Cocina's Tamalada\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/tamaleplate-new.jpg\" alt=\"Tamales at La Cocina's Tamalada\" width=\"560\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tamales at La Cocina's Tamalada\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Forty hungry people with sticky hands and \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tamale\">tamales\u003c/a> on their minds rotated through four tables at \u003ca href=\"http://www.lacocinasf.org/\">La Cocina’s\u003c/a> Tamalada event last Wednesday evening, learning how to make beef, veggie, chicken, cheese and sweet mango tamales. No wonder this annual December event always sells out in November. Tamales can be intimidating for the novice, and even for a pro are time-consuming and labor intensive. That's the reason behind tamaladas (tamale making parties): share the toil and end up with enough to eat plus a pile to take home for later.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Besides demystifying tamale making (this is the first time I dared to try my hand at filling and rolling the corn meal bundles) the event at La Cocina introduced students to three chefs from different regions of Latin America, each demonstrating their own traditional recipes and techniques that produced a variety of stuffed, steamy bundles.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tamales, a beloved comfort food served for festivals, birthdays and everyday meals, are a staple at Christmastime. They date back thousands of years, even before the Mayans and Aztecs. The portable, filled buns have fed generations of families (and armies) from Mexico to Argentina. Corn meal wrapped in corn husks, plantain or banana leaves can be filled with almost anything, most commonly with shredded pork, beef or chicken, while sweet tamales feature fruit or raisins and coconut.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_53123\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/Alicias-beef-and-mango-tamales-1000a.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-53123\" title=\"Alicia's beef and mango tamales\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/Alicias-beef-and-mango-tamales-1000a.jpg\" alt=\"Alicia's beef and mango tamales\" width=\"560\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Alicia's beef and mango tamales\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Alicia Villanueva of \u003ca href=\"http://www.aliciatamaleslosmayas.com/\">Tamales Los Mayas\u003c/a> grew up in Mazatlan and her masa had the consistency of a light play-doh. She demonstrated how to roll it into a ball between two palms and then flatten it by pressing into a roundish shape onto the corn husk and plopping some of her fall-apart-tender cooked beef roast, studded with vegetables on top. Squeeze together the edges of the filled masa in its corn husk wrapper and simply fold the ends or tie up the tamale with a thin strip of corn husk.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_53101\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/Dilsas-cheese-tamales-1000.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-53101\" title=\"Dilsa's cheese tamales\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/Dilsas-cheese-tamales-1000.jpg\" alt=\"Dilsa's cheese tamales\" width=\"560\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dilsa's cheese tamales\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Dilsa Lugo of \u003ca href=\"http://www.buylocalcampaign.com/losCilantros/index.html\">Los Cilantros\u003c/a> is from Cuernavaca, Mexico. She told us her secret for achieving fluffy tamales is using fresh lard and explained that each corn husk has a smooth and a scratchy side; you should spread the masa on the smooth side for easier removal after steaming.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The consistency of Dilsa’s masa was totally different than Alicia’s. We used a spoon to smear the sticky masa very thinly on the corn husk, then added two kinds of cheese and topped with tomato, onion and jalapeno. Dilsa, who is sous chef at \u003ca href=\"http://www.copitarestaurant.com/\">Copita\u003c/a> in Sausalito also does catering. Here is \u003ca href=\"http://lettuceeatkale.com/2010/la-cocina-helps-launch-los-cilantros-catering-company/\">an interview\u003c/a> with her by Sarah Henry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_53110\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/Marias-vegetable-tamales-10001.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-53110\" title=\"Maria's vegetable tamales \" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/Marias-vegetable-tamales-10001.jpg\" alt=\"Maria's vegetable tamales\" width=\"560\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Maria's vegetable tamales\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Maria del Carmen Flores, owner of \u003ca href=\"http://www.estrellitassnacks.com/\">Estrellita’s Snacks\u003c/a> is from El Salvador. Her variation on the tamale theme employed cooked--not raw--masa with the vegetables already mixed in. We scooped a big dollop of the masa veggie mixture onto cut rectangles of banana leaves, backed with paper, instead of corn husks, and folded and rolled them up into tight little bundles. She also demonstrated another recipe with chicken and a dozen vegetables, including green beans, zucchini, peas, mushrooms, spinach and green olives.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the fourth table, demonstrating Alicia’s recipe for sweet mango-filled tamales was Alejandra, another program participant at La Cocina. Alicia adapted her mother’s traditional pineapple and strawberry tamale recipe, which uses a sweet masa made with butter and sugar. Her fluffy mango marvel won Alicia 1st prize at the Alameda County Fair. She shares her recipe with Bay Area Bites readers at the end of this post.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Although enjoyed throughout the year, tamales are an integral part of Mexican Christmas celebrations, most notably the nine day ritual called \u003ca href=\"http://www.nydailynews.com/latino/savor-holidays-tamales-las-posadas-article-1.354163\">Las Posadas\u003c/a> (meaning “lodgings”), which runs December 16-25, in which a candlelit, costumed procession with musicians, that is said to represent Mary and Joseph’s search for an inn, knocks on the doors of several houses before being welcomed into one home. Songs, piñatas, moles, \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pozole.\">pozole\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.examiner.com/article/celebrate-las-posadas-what-are-they-where-to-buy-tamales-how-to-make-ponche\">hot punch\u003c/a> and tamales typically enliven the festivities.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A few days before the Tamalada, BAB spoke with Alicia Villanueava and Maria del Carmen Flores at La Cocina. Their comments have been edited for length and clarity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Alicia, one of 4 children who grew up in Sinaloa, Mexico, is the only one in her family to move to the US. She came here with her 8-year old son (who is now 20 years old and studying alternative energy at SFSU). Her husband joined them later.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>I see your business is centered on tamales. What is your connection to tamales?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Alicia:\u003c/strong> Tamales bring back beautiful memories from my mom and grandma. Every year, the whole family would get together and cook them. It’s really hard work and takes many hours and dedication because there are so many details. First, you have to prepare the masa and then the fillings. My Grandma would start with the corncobs and a mill to make the masa.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I started cooking and selling tamales just by myself in 2000 but it was more stressful without any permits or anything and I just depended on friends to tell me who was planning a party or else I walked the streets knocking on doors, offering tastes of my tamales.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then I realized I needed more help so I went to \u003ca href=\"http://www.womensinitiative.org/index.htm\">The Women’s Initiative\u003c/a>. And my teacher referred me to La Cocina in 2010 and this was the most heavenly place. I am so happy. La Cocina made my dream come true. Now I have five women working for me. They make about 400 tamales a day in La Cocina’s kitchen. The Hobart mixer and the professional steamer are my angels. I can steam 400 tamales in 30 minutes compared to 5 hours it would take on a small stove.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Tell me about the Tamalada tradition in your family. Is it just women who make the tamales?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Alicia:\u003c/strong> Not just women, men make them too. When you’re making tamales everyone wants to participate. Our Tamaladas would take a whole day. There were 10 of us family and friends, and my grandmother would dole out the tasks. When I was little, I enjoyed all the smells of cooking. It’s not just about cooking, but talking and solving problems together as a family. And everyone goes home with lots of tamales that last for days.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Where can we find your tamales now?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Alicia:\u003c/strong> I used to sell at Justin Herman Plaza but I found a new place at \u003ca href=\"http://somastreatfoodpark.com/\">SOMA Streat Food\u003c/a> -- every day. And I do catering and festivals. My big goal is to have a restaurant. I’m working on my second business plan with La Cocina. Maybe in the Financial District, but I’m open; God will find the right place.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_52970\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/DSCN3733.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-52970\" title=\"Ingredients for Maria's chicken tamales\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/DSCN3733.jpg\" alt=\"Ingredients for Maria's chicken tamales\" width=\"560\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ingredients for Maria's chicken tamales\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>For the interview with Maria del Carmen Flores, La Cocina’s Azalea Perez Olivares kindly acted as interpreter\u003cbr>\nMaria is from El Salvador and started making tamales with her father when she was six years old. She described some differences:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Maria:\u003c/strong> In Mexico, they use raw masa, while we use cooked. And our fillings are different, like one with chicken, potato, green olives and chickpeas. The vegetarian I made up because there are so many vegetarians here. Since tamale making is so labor intensive, it’s great for parties. We talk, teach and learn in a group from each other. I started making them here in my kitchen in 2003 and sold them on street corners in San Francisco. It was hard because I had to hide from the police. Then I found La Cocina and now I sell at \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/alemany-farmers-market-san-francisco\">Alemany Farmers Market\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/heart-of-the-city-farmers-market-san-francisco\">Civic Center Farmers Market\u003c/a> and do catering.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>I know your business name Estrellita means little stars and I see you have gold inlay stars on your teeth too. Can I ask why all the stars?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Maria:\u003c/strong> Since I was a little girl, I wanted to be a superstar on TV. Thank God I could accomplish that through my food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(Then with a little prompting from Azalea, Maria tells me how her other dream came true too. She has a part in the new Woody Allen film that was recently shot in San Francisco. She was “discovered” on the corner of south Van Ness and 14th wearing a typical dress from El Salvador, when apparently she was noticed by film people scouting for extras. They asked her to be in Allen’s movie and she filmed a scene in which Cate Blanchett asks her for a key to an apartment.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Don’t miss another Tamalada at La Cocina. They have already scheduled next year’s class. Put it on your calendar: December 11, 2013.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Recipe: ALICIA'S MANGO TAMALES\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Makes 30-40 tamales, depending on the size you make\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>INGREDIENTS:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>40 - 60 dried corn husks* (this includes extra, in case some tear)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>10 pounds maseca* (corn flour)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>10 sticks unsalted butter, let soften at room temperature 2-3 hours\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>6 cups white sugar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>6 pounds frozen mango (Whole Foods brand is best) let thaw at room temperature about 2hrs\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>4 14-oz.cans condensed milk\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>*Can find in Mexican markets or Mexican food aisle of most large markets\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>PREPARATION:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For Masa:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>In a large pan, cover corn husks with water and boil for 30 min.\u003c/li>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cli>Combine 3 pounds of thawed mango and 2 cans of condensed milk in blender. Blend until smooth.\u003c/li>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cli>In a large bowl, put the 10 pounds of maseca, 8 sticks softened butter, 4 cups sugar and the blended mango/milk cream from Step 2.\u003c/li>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cli>For traditional “grandmother method,” mix well with your hands 40-60 minutes until it becomes a smooth paste. OR you can mix it using an electric mixer with a big enough bowl for 15-20 minutes.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For Filling:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>On the stove in a medium pot, put in remaining 2 sticks of softened butter, 2 cups of sugar, 3 pounds of thawed mango and 2 cans condensed milk. Heat on high for 5 minutes, uncovered, then cook slowly at medium-low for another 30 minutes, stirring constantly so filling does not stick to pan.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>To Assemble the Tamales:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>To assemble tamales, take about a 1/4 cup of masa and roll it in a smooth ball between your palms. Then press it onto the softened corn husk leaving about 1/2 inch border along the sides and 2-inch border on top and bottom for folding.\u003c/li>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cli> Top center of masa with about 2 Tablespoons of mango filling.\u003c/li>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cli> Gently fold one long side of the corn husk to the other, making make a tight bundle, then fold up the pointed end of the corn husk,leaving other end open. If you wish, use a thin strip of corn husk to tie it up and look pretty. Lay each tamale folded-side down while you finish the rest.\u003c/li>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cli> Once the tamales are folded, fill a large steamer with water just below the fill line and place the steam tray on the rack.\u003c/li>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cli> Carefully place each tamale standing up on the steamer, open ends up and cook covered for 90 min. (If you don’t have a steamer, you can use a large pot with a steamer basket, just make sure water is below tamales, so that they don’t get wet and check every 15 minutes so that water does not boil away). Turn the gas to high until water boils then turn it down to medium-low. (After 90 minutes, masa should be firm and pull away easily from corn husk, if it is sticky, carefully re-wrap and steam some more.)\u003c/li>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cli> Remove each tamale with tongs and let rest for a few minutes before serving as a delicious dessert for lunch or dinner or even breakfast.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Besides demystifying tamale making the event at La Cocina introduced students to three chefs from different regions of Latin America, each demonstrating their own traditional recipes and techniques that produced a variety of stuffed, steamy bundles. Post includes recipe for Alicia’s Mango Tamales.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_53121\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/tamaleplate-new.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-53121\" title=\"Tamales at La Cocina's Tamalada\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/tamaleplate-new.jpg\" alt=\"Tamales at La Cocina's Tamalada\" width=\"560\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tamales at La Cocina's Tamalada\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Forty hungry people with sticky hands and \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tamale\">tamales\u003c/a> on their minds rotated through four tables at \u003ca href=\"http://www.lacocinasf.org/\">La Cocina’s\u003c/a> Tamalada event last Wednesday evening, learning how to make beef, veggie, chicken, cheese and sweet mango tamales. No wonder this annual December event always sells out in November. Tamales can be intimidating for the novice, and even for a pro are time-consuming and labor intensive. That's the reason behind tamaladas (tamale making parties): share the toil and end up with enough to eat plus a pile to take home for later.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Besides demystifying tamale making (this is the first time I dared to try my hand at filling and rolling the corn meal bundles) the event at La Cocina introduced students to three chefs from different regions of Latin America, each demonstrating their own traditional recipes and techniques that produced a variety of stuffed, steamy bundles.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tamales, a beloved comfort food served for festivals, birthdays and everyday meals, are a staple at Christmastime. They date back thousands of years, even before the Mayans and Aztecs. The portable, filled buns have fed generations of families (and armies) from Mexico to Argentina. Corn meal wrapped in corn husks, plantain or banana leaves can be filled with almost anything, most commonly with shredded pork, beef or chicken, while sweet tamales feature fruit or raisins and coconut.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_53123\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/Alicias-beef-and-mango-tamales-1000a.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-53123\" title=\"Alicia's beef and mango tamales\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/Alicias-beef-and-mango-tamales-1000a.jpg\" alt=\"Alicia's beef and mango tamales\" width=\"560\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Alicia's beef and mango tamales\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Alicia Villanueva of \u003ca href=\"http://www.aliciatamaleslosmayas.com/\">Tamales Los Mayas\u003c/a> grew up in Mazatlan and her masa had the consistency of a light play-doh. She demonstrated how to roll it into a ball between two palms and then flatten it by pressing into a roundish shape onto the corn husk and plopping some of her fall-apart-tender cooked beef roast, studded with vegetables on top. Squeeze together the edges of the filled masa in its corn husk wrapper and simply fold the ends or tie up the tamale with a thin strip of corn husk.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_53101\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/Dilsas-cheese-tamales-1000.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-53101\" title=\"Dilsa's cheese tamales\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/Dilsas-cheese-tamales-1000.jpg\" alt=\"Dilsa's cheese tamales\" width=\"560\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dilsa's cheese tamales\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Dilsa Lugo of \u003ca href=\"http://www.buylocalcampaign.com/losCilantros/index.html\">Los Cilantros\u003c/a> is from Cuernavaca, Mexico. She told us her secret for achieving fluffy tamales is using fresh lard and explained that each corn husk has a smooth and a scratchy side; you should spread the masa on the smooth side for easier removal after steaming.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The consistency of Dilsa’s masa was totally different than Alicia’s. We used a spoon to smear the sticky masa very thinly on the corn husk, then added two kinds of cheese and topped with tomato, onion and jalapeno. Dilsa, who is sous chef at \u003ca href=\"http://www.copitarestaurant.com/\">Copita\u003c/a> in Sausalito also does catering. Here is \u003ca href=\"http://lettuceeatkale.com/2010/la-cocina-helps-launch-los-cilantros-catering-company/\">an interview\u003c/a> with her by Sarah Henry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_53110\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/Marias-vegetable-tamales-10001.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-53110\" title=\"Maria's vegetable tamales \" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/Marias-vegetable-tamales-10001.jpg\" alt=\"Maria's vegetable tamales\" width=\"560\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Maria's vegetable tamales\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Maria del Carmen Flores, owner of \u003ca href=\"http://www.estrellitassnacks.com/\">Estrellita’s Snacks\u003c/a> is from El Salvador. Her variation on the tamale theme employed cooked--not raw--masa with the vegetables already mixed in. We scooped a big dollop of the masa veggie mixture onto cut rectangles of banana leaves, backed with paper, instead of corn husks, and folded and rolled them up into tight little bundles. She also demonstrated another recipe with chicken and a dozen vegetables, including green beans, zucchini, peas, mushrooms, spinach and green olives.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the fourth table, demonstrating Alicia’s recipe for sweet mango-filled tamales was Alejandra, another program participant at La Cocina. Alicia adapted her mother’s traditional pineapple and strawberry tamale recipe, which uses a sweet masa made with butter and sugar. Her fluffy mango marvel won Alicia 1st prize at the Alameda County Fair. She shares her recipe with Bay Area Bites readers at the end of this post.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Although enjoyed throughout the year, tamales are an integral part of Mexican Christmas celebrations, most notably the nine day ritual called \u003ca href=\"http://www.nydailynews.com/latino/savor-holidays-tamales-las-posadas-article-1.354163\">Las Posadas\u003c/a> (meaning “lodgings”), which runs December 16-25, in which a candlelit, costumed procession with musicians, that is said to represent Mary and Joseph’s search for an inn, knocks on the doors of several houses before being welcomed into one home. Songs, piñatas, moles, \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pozole.\">pozole\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.examiner.com/article/celebrate-las-posadas-what-are-they-where-to-buy-tamales-how-to-make-ponche\">hot punch\u003c/a> and tamales typically enliven the festivities.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A few days before the Tamalada, BAB spoke with Alicia Villanueava and Maria del Carmen Flores at La Cocina. Their comments have been edited for length and clarity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Alicia, one of 4 children who grew up in Sinaloa, Mexico, is the only one in her family to move to the US. She came here with her 8-year old son (who is now 20 years old and studying alternative energy at SFSU). Her husband joined them later.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>I see your business is centered on tamales. What is your connection to tamales?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Alicia:\u003c/strong> Tamales bring back beautiful memories from my mom and grandma. Every year, the whole family would get together and cook them. It’s really hard work and takes many hours and dedication because there are so many details. First, you have to prepare the masa and then the fillings. My Grandma would start with the corncobs and a mill to make the masa.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I started cooking and selling tamales just by myself in 2000 but it was more stressful without any permits or anything and I just depended on friends to tell me who was planning a party or else I walked the streets knocking on doors, offering tastes of my tamales.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then I realized I needed more help so I went to \u003ca href=\"http://www.womensinitiative.org/index.htm\">The Women’s Initiative\u003c/a>. And my teacher referred me to La Cocina in 2010 and this was the most heavenly place. I am so happy. La Cocina made my dream come true. Now I have five women working for me. They make about 400 tamales a day in La Cocina’s kitchen. The Hobart mixer and the professional steamer are my angels. I can steam 400 tamales in 30 minutes compared to 5 hours it would take on a small stove.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Tell me about the Tamalada tradition in your family. Is it just women who make the tamales?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Alicia:\u003c/strong> Not just women, men make them too. When you’re making tamales everyone wants to participate. Our Tamaladas would take a whole day. There were 10 of us family and friends, and my grandmother would dole out the tasks. When I was little, I enjoyed all the smells of cooking. It’s not just about cooking, but talking and solving problems together as a family. And everyone goes home with lots of tamales that last for days.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Where can we find your tamales now?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Alicia:\u003c/strong> I used to sell at Justin Herman Plaza but I found a new place at \u003ca href=\"http://somastreatfoodpark.com/\">SOMA Streat Food\u003c/a> -- every day. And I do catering and festivals. My big goal is to have a restaurant. I’m working on my second business plan with La Cocina. Maybe in the Financial District, but I’m open; God will find the right place.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_52970\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/DSCN3733.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-52970\" title=\"Ingredients for Maria's chicken tamales\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/DSCN3733.jpg\" alt=\"Ingredients for Maria's chicken tamales\" width=\"560\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ingredients for Maria's chicken tamales\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>For the interview with Maria del Carmen Flores, La Cocina’s Azalea Perez Olivares kindly acted as interpreter\u003cbr>\nMaria is from El Salvador and started making tamales with her father when she was six years old. She described some differences:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Maria:\u003c/strong> In Mexico, they use raw masa, while we use cooked. And our fillings are different, like one with chicken, potato, green olives and chickpeas. The vegetarian I made up because there are so many vegetarians here. Since tamale making is so labor intensive, it’s great for parties. We talk, teach and learn in a group from each other. I started making them here in my kitchen in 2003 and sold them on street corners in San Francisco. It was hard because I had to hide from the police. Then I found La Cocina and now I sell at \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/alemany-farmers-market-san-francisco\">Alemany Farmers Market\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/heart-of-the-city-farmers-market-san-francisco\">Civic Center Farmers Market\u003c/a> and do catering.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>I know your business name Estrellita means little stars and I see you have gold inlay stars on your teeth too. Can I ask why all the stars?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Maria:\u003c/strong> Since I was a little girl, I wanted to be a superstar on TV. Thank God I could accomplish that through my food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(Then with a little prompting from Azalea, Maria tells me how her other dream came true too. She has a part in the new Woody Allen film that was recently shot in San Francisco. She was “discovered” on the corner of south Van Ness and 14th wearing a typical dress from El Salvador, when apparently she was noticed by film people scouting for extras. They asked her to be in Allen’s movie and she filmed a scene in which Cate Blanchett asks her for a key to an apartment.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Don’t miss another Tamalada at La Cocina. They have already scheduled next year’s class. Put it on your calendar: December 11, 2013.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Recipe: ALICIA'S MANGO TAMALES\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Makes 30-40 tamales, depending on the size you make\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>INGREDIENTS:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>40 - 60 dried corn husks* (this includes extra, in case some tear)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>10 pounds maseca* (corn flour)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>10 sticks unsalted butter, let soften at room temperature 2-3 hours\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>6 cups white sugar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>6 pounds frozen mango (Whole Foods brand is best) let thaw at room temperature about 2hrs\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>4 14-oz.cans condensed milk\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>*Can find in Mexican markets or Mexican food aisle of most large markets\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>PREPARATION:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For Masa:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>In a large pan, cover corn husks with water and boil for 30 min.\u003c/li>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cli>Combine 3 pounds of thawed mango and 2 cans of condensed milk in blender. Blend until smooth.\u003c/li>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cli>In a large bowl, put the 10 pounds of maseca, 8 sticks softened butter, 4 cups sugar and the blended mango/milk cream from Step 2.\u003c/li>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cli>For traditional “grandmother method,” mix well with your hands 40-60 minutes until it becomes a smooth paste. OR you can mix it using an electric mixer with a big enough bowl for 15-20 minutes.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For Filling:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>On the stove in a medium pot, put in remaining 2 sticks of softened butter, 2 cups of sugar, 3 pounds of thawed mango and 2 cans condensed milk. Heat on high for 5 minutes, uncovered, then cook slowly at medium-low for another 30 minutes, stirring constantly so filling does not stick to pan.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>To Assemble the Tamales:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>To assemble tamales, take about a 1/4 cup of masa and roll it in a smooth ball between your palms. Then press it onto the softened corn husk leaving about 1/2 inch border along the sides and 2-inch border on top and bottom for folding.\u003c/li>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cli> Top center of masa with about 2 Tablespoons of mango filling.\u003c/li>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cli> Gently fold one long side of the corn husk to the other, making make a tight bundle, then fold up the pointed end of the corn husk,leaving other end open. If you wish, use a thin strip of corn husk to tie it up and look pretty. Lay each tamale folded-side down while you finish the rest.\u003c/li>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cli> Once the tamales are folded, fill a large steamer with water just below the fill line and place the steam tray on the rack.\u003c/li>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cli> Carefully place each tamale standing up on the steamer, open ends up and cook covered for 90 min. (If you don’t have a steamer, you can use a large pot with a steamer basket, just make sure water is below tamales, so that they don’t get wet and check every 15 minutes so that water does not boil away). Turn the gas to high until water boils then turn it down to medium-low. (After 90 minutes, masa should be firm and pull away easily from corn husk, if it is sticky, carefully re-wrap and steam some more.)\u003c/li>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cli> Remove each tamale with tongs and let rest for a few minutes before serving as a delicious dessert for lunch or dinner or even breakfast.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Q&A with Michael Recchiuti about Chocolate Lab and the Holidays",
"title": "Q&A with Michael Recchiuti about Chocolate Lab and the Holidays",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_52761\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/Michael-recchiuti1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/Michael-recchiuti1000.jpg\" alt=\"Michael Recchiuti. photo credit: Tom Seawell Photography\" title=\"Michael Recchiuti. photo credit: Tom Seawell Photography\" width=\"560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-52761\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Michael Recchiuti. photo credit: Tom Seawell Photography\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>At the new \u003ca href=\"http://chocolatelabsf.com/\">Chocolate Lab\u003c/a> dessert café from Michael and Jacky \u003ca href=\"http://www.recchiuti.com/index.html\">Recchiuti\u003c/a>, there is a bounty of sweets -- adult sundaes, chocolates, caramels, cookies, pastries and classic drinking chocolate. Still, it’s best to plan ahead and opt for a full meal here, since there are savory delights like a goat cheese tourteau and tartines made with bay shrimp and seasonal root vegetables. The savory items are ones that Michael has perfected over the years and reminds him of travels to Europe. He’s openly passionate about using the best produce our Northern California has to offer. The sweet Chocolate Lab space formerly housed Piccino and has been refreshed to suit Recchiuti’s cooking needs and eye for design. There is rooftop Dogpatch honey, plants from \u003ca href=\"http://floragrubb.com/idx/index.php\">Flora Grubb\u003c/a>, walls and tabletops from fallen timber elm, and mouth blown glass hanging from the ceiling. After ordering, each table gets a beaker of water, in keeping with the lab theme. Chocolate Lab is open late and has wine, beer and an intriguing probiotic soda from Drinkwell Softers. Young families, couples, travelers and folks doing relaxed meetings were spotted on recent visits. I interviewed Michael Recchiuti in person on what his life is like now that Chocolate Lab has opened.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_52783\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/sundae1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/sundae1000.jpg\" alt=\"Chocolate Lab Ice-Cream Sundae\" title=\"Chocolate Lab Ice-Cream Sundae\" width=\"560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-52783\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chocolate Lab Ice-Cream Sundae\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What are you favorite holiday foods?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nRecchiuti: Oh God. Aside from chocolate? [laughs] I just love turkey and stuffing. I always have to have mashed potatoes or sweet potatoes -- and a good stuffing. If we’re cooking a capon or a turkey, I’ll change the stuffing. I don’t like the really dry crunchy stuffing. It’s like marshmallows: some people like them toasted at different levels.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Which Recchiuti products do you recommend for the holidays as gifts?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n Recchiuti: I always think of things that can be shared, where there’s more than one of the same. Our \u003ca href=\"http://www.recchiuti.com/100.html\">Burgundy Box\u003c/a> ($83) has 32 pieces. Or try the \u003ca href=\"http://www.recchiuti.com/726.html\">Dragee Sampler\u003c/a> ($29), which is like fancy bridge mix. People can dive into it. There are also \u003ca href=\"http://www.recchiuti.com/108.html\">Fleur de Sel salted caramels\u003c/a> ($23). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Our \u003ca href=\"http://www.recchiuti.com/238.html\">PEPs\u003c/a> (Peppermint Thins $18) are great because there’s a lot in the box. That’s my Junior Mint substitute -- I’ll take it to the movies. Jacky and I go to Sundance because we can book a seat and show up right when the show starts. We get spoiled and it’s tough to see a film elsewhere because at Sundance, you can have a drink and something to eat. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: How do you celebrate the holidays?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nRecchiuti: Usually with a lot of relaxation because we're just coming off a busy holiday with the chocolate factory. Normally we’ll go see a movie and hang out with a small group of friends who are in the food industry. This past Thanksgiving, I ordered a turkey kit from Bi-Rite and told them “I’m having seven to eight people over.” It had everything in it. People bring pies and we may do hot chocolate. My go-to dessert is always the tarte tatin. It’s simple: apples, butter, puff pastry. Serve it with little bit of ice cream.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/michael-recchiuiti-counter1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/michael-recchiuiti-counter1000-150x150.jpg\" alt=\"Michael Recchiuiti (L) with Garrett Zacker (R) at Chocolate Lab\" title=\"Michael Recchiuiti (L) with Garrett Zacker (R) at Chocolate Lab\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-52781\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/little-nib700.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/little-nib700-150x150.jpg\" alt=\"Little Nib signage\" title=\"Little Nib signage\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-52780\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/h2o-beaker700.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/h2o-beaker700-150x150.jpg\" alt=\"Mary Ladd's son behind H2O beaker at Chocolate Lab\" title=\"Mary Ladd's son behind H2O beaker at Chocolate Lab\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-52779\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: You’ve been making confections since 1997, and have retail outlets at the Ferry Building and Little Nib, around the corner from Chocolate Lab. Having a restaurant is a new development. What’s it been like? What are your favorite menu items?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nRecchiuti: It’s definitely been different. It’s not the first time I’ve opened a place but it has been awhile. We’ve just been trying to get people to think of it as more than a place for dessert. I am kind of getting used to the groove again—there’s service, with people walking in the door versus when I’m making chocolate and making things in advance. That’s like wine and cigars or precious cargo, where you’re releasing stock. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My favorite menu items are the Tourteau Fromage or Goat Cheese Souffle with a salad. I’ve been trying to perfect it for a while. I wouldn’t call it a cheesecake because it’s lighter than that. Have it with a drizzle of early harvest olive oil and Hawaiian pink salt. The other thing I really like is the vegetarian tartines. We change with the seasons and now we’re into root vegetables that are sliced thin then kept overnight. It’s like vegetable lasagna and we serve it with chickpea spread and salsa verde. We keep it kind of clean and not too garlicky, and there’s also a little Parmesan. People with dietary restrictions can get them. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_52778\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/cheese-torte1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/cheese-torte1000.jpg\" alt=\"Tourteau Fromage aka Savory Goat Cheese Souffle\" title=\"Tourteau Fromage aka Savory Goat Cheese Souffle\" width=\"560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-52778\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tourteau Fromage aka Savory Goat Cheese Souffle\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Two of our workers are gluten intolerant so we’re working on gluten-free bread. A lot of gluten-free people make requests, too. Gluten-free bread mixes differently, and bakes differently. It burns really fast. Some gluten-free bread turns out good, and some of it’s like cardboard. There’s a really good gluten-free flour that Thomas Keller has. I made pasta and pastry crust with it and also made pastry crust with it and cut butter into it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As for the vegan thing, we can serve it without the cheese. We have an apiary across the street and the woman who lives upstairs is managing it. She pulls the combs off. We have big slabs and racks. The spring honey is very light and clear. The one from last week is like blackstrap molasses. The bees are local, and they’re traveling 4-5 miles. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Chocolate Lab is inspired by your early years as a savory and pastry chef and your travels with Jacky. How did that come about?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nRecchiuti: The whole concept is about our travels to Paris. We would always go into this tartine shop in the 6th arrondissement and were fascinated because it was right next to the famous bakery called \u003ca href=\"http://www.poilane.com/pages/en/company_boutiques.php\">Poilâne\u003c/a>. They serve beer, wine, a tartine and salad. That’s it. They make the bread.\u003cbr>\nThe other funny thing is I used to make the tarte tatin [dessert] during the last job I had in Vermont. There was a British chef who said, “You have no idea what you’re doing. Let me show you how to make it.” His version was so much more rustic and refined in the amount of butter and the amount of pastry. Once I tried his, I was like, “This is fantastic.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What’s the secret to working together and staying married?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nRecchiuti: We both divide and conquer. Jacky’s over at the office working and I’m here working. A lot of times we are in the same physical space. We give each other autonomy and space. I try not to interfere in what she’s working on. It’s hard to shake talking about work, how to craft and shape it. We’ve been together for 20 years.... \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What are you most passionate about food-wise? \u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nRecchiuti: All the fresh ingredients we’ve been getting from the farms: winter greens and the root vegetables. I didn't realize there were so many kinds of carrots. The watermelon radishes are wonderful. They drop it off at 4 a.m. and it’s like a gift. It’s nice to not work with chocolate -- I love chocolate but it’s a nice shift. With this great produce, you don’t have to manipulate and do too much to the product. That’s probably where Alice Waters and everyone started: out of the ground and onto the table. We can do that here in California and we’re spoiled that way. It was different on the East Coast. You cut, chop, puree, and blanch unless it’s summer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Who are your mentors?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nRecchiuti: Raymond Moderski owned a bunch of restaurants. He spent a lot time working with me in my teens and twenties allowing me to see how things worked. We’d go to his house and bake all day long. He’d do that because he loved it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pascal Janvier from \u003ca href=\"http://www.fleurdecocoa.com/\">Fleur de Cocoa\u003c/a> in Los Gatos is another mentor. He recently sold his business and packed his bags to go to Australia with his wife. I worked with him a lot when I was on the East Coast. He was patient and very generous with information. A lot of European chefs aren’t like that. They yell.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What are the best and worst things about being in the confection and restaurant business? \u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nRecchiuti: The best part for both? Before we opened Chocolate Lab, my work was behind the scenes. Here you’re more directly involved with people as they’re having their experience. You get to experience in real time both criticism and accolades. It helps your craft to know immediately what people like and what they don’t like. The hard part is figuring out how to do it well. You can’t make everyone happy. We’re tweaking the menu descriptions and just listening. That way, people will help me craft it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What are the lessons you’ve learned on the way?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nRecchiuti: I did a fig and pink peppercorn and realized it tasted like dirt. It just didn’t work. Then there was a chocolate beet torte and I couldn't put the word “beet” on the menu. People would enjoy it, but then they’d see the pink in the torte and say, “What’s that?” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong> Bay Area Bites: Do you have any favorite Bay Area spots?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nRecchiuti: \u003ca href=\"http://www.bartartine.com/\">Bar Tartine\u003c/a> is really fun. I love what he’s doing with all the seasoning and dry herbs, bold flavors and textures. The wine list is really good. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sometimes we don’t make it as far as \u003ca href=\"http://www.digwinesf.com/contact.html\">Dig wine\u003c/a> around the corner. We’ll have a glass of wine between lunch and dinner service. We live here and I call it \"The Chocolate Triangle\" because we have Little Nib, Chocolate Lab and our warehouse all nearby. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>INFORMATION:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://chocolatelabsf.com/\">Chocolate Lab\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Address:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://goo.gl/maps/XJeAA\">Map\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n807 22nd St (at Tennessee St.)\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94107\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Phone:\u003c/strong> 415-489-2882\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Hours:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nSun 12pm–5pm,\u003cbr>\nClosed Monday\u003cbr>\nTues–Thurs 11am–10pm,\u003cbr>\nFri & Sat 11am–11pm\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Facebook:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/chocolatelabsf\">Chocolate Lab\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Twitter:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/ChocolateLabSF\">@ChocolateLabSF\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Mary Ladd profiles Michael Recchiuti, who shares what it's like to work in his new Chocolate Lab dessert cafe in the Dogpatch neighborhood. Recchiuti talks about his favorite menu items and holiday foods and gift sweets.",
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"description": "Mary Ladd profiles Michael Recchiuti, who shares what it's like to work in his new Chocolate Lab dessert cafe in the Dogpatch neighborhood. Recchiuti talks about his favorite menu items and holiday foods and gift sweets.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_52761\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/Michael-recchiuti1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/Michael-recchiuti1000.jpg\" alt=\"Michael Recchiuti. photo credit: Tom Seawell Photography\" title=\"Michael Recchiuti. photo credit: Tom Seawell Photography\" width=\"560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-52761\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Michael Recchiuti. photo credit: Tom Seawell Photography\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>At the new \u003ca href=\"http://chocolatelabsf.com/\">Chocolate Lab\u003c/a> dessert café from Michael and Jacky \u003ca href=\"http://www.recchiuti.com/index.html\">Recchiuti\u003c/a>, there is a bounty of sweets -- adult sundaes, chocolates, caramels, cookies, pastries and classic drinking chocolate. Still, it’s best to plan ahead and opt for a full meal here, since there are savory delights like a goat cheese tourteau and tartines made with bay shrimp and seasonal root vegetables. The savory items are ones that Michael has perfected over the years and reminds him of travels to Europe. He’s openly passionate about using the best produce our Northern California has to offer. The sweet Chocolate Lab space formerly housed Piccino and has been refreshed to suit Recchiuti’s cooking needs and eye for design. There is rooftop Dogpatch honey, plants from \u003ca href=\"http://floragrubb.com/idx/index.php\">Flora Grubb\u003c/a>, walls and tabletops from fallen timber elm, and mouth blown glass hanging from the ceiling. After ordering, each table gets a beaker of water, in keeping with the lab theme. Chocolate Lab is open late and has wine, beer and an intriguing probiotic soda from Drinkwell Softers. Young families, couples, travelers and folks doing relaxed meetings were spotted on recent visits. I interviewed Michael Recchiuti in person on what his life is like now that Chocolate Lab has opened.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_52783\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/sundae1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/sundae1000.jpg\" alt=\"Chocolate Lab Ice-Cream Sundae\" title=\"Chocolate Lab Ice-Cream Sundae\" width=\"560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-52783\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chocolate Lab Ice-Cream Sundae\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What are you favorite holiday foods?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nRecchiuti: Oh God. Aside from chocolate? [laughs] I just love turkey and stuffing. I always have to have mashed potatoes or sweet potatoes -- and a good stuffing. If we’re cooking a capon or a turkey, I’ll change the stuffing. I don’t like the really dry crunchy stuffing. It’s like marshmallows: some people like them toasted at different levels.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Which Recchiuti products do you recommend for the holidays as gifts?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n Recchiuti: I always think of things that can be shared, where there’s more than one of the same. Our \u003ca href=\"http://www.recchiuti.com/100.html\">Burgundy Box\u003c/a> ($83) has 32 pieces. Or try the \u003ca href=\"http://www.recchiuti.com/726.html\">Dragee Sampler\u003c/a> ($29), which is like fancy bridge mix. People can dive into it. There are also \u003ca href=\"http://www.recchiuti.com/108.html\">Fleur de Sel salted caramels\u003c/a> ($23). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Our \u003ca href=\"http://www.recchiuti.com/238.html\">PEPs\u003c/a> (Peppermint Thins $18) are great because there’s a lot in the box. That’s my Junior Mint substitute -- I’ll take it to the movies. Jacky and I go to Sundance because we can book a seat and show up right when the show starts. We get spoiled and it’s tough to see a film elsewhere because at Sundance, you can have a drink and something to eat. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: How do you celebrate the holidays?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nRecchiuti: Usually with a lot of relaxation because we're just coming off a busy holiday with the chocolate factory. Normally we’ll go see a movie and hang out with a small group of friends who are in the food industry. This past Thanksgiving, I ordered a turkey kit from Bi-Rite and told them “I’m having seven to eight people over.” It had everything in it. People bring pies and we may do hot chocolate. My go-to dessert is always the tarte tatin. It’s simple: apples, butter, puff pastry. Serve it with little bit of ice cream.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/michael-recchiuiti-counter1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/michael-recchiuiti-counter1000-150x150.jpg\" alt=\"Michael Recchiuiti (L) with Garrett Zacker (R) at Chocolate Lab\" title=\"Michael Recchiuiti (L) with Garrett Zacker (R) at Chocolate Lab\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-52781\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/little-nib700.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/little-nib700-150x150.jpg\" alt=\"Little Nib signage\" title=\"Little Nib signage\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-52780\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/h2o-beaker700.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/h2o-beaker700-150x150.jpg\" alt=\"Mary Ladd's son behind H2O beaker at Chocolate Lab\" title=\"Mary Ladd's son behind H2O beaker at Chocolate Lab\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-52779\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: You’ve been making confections since 1997, and have retail outlets at the Ferry Building and Little Nib, around the corner from Chocolate Lab. Having a restaurant is a new development. What’s it been like? What are your favorite menu items?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nRecchiuti: It’s definitely been different. It’s not the first time I’ve opened a place but it has been awhile. We’ve just been trying to get people to think of it as more than a place for dessert. I am kind of getting used to the groove again—there’s service, with people walking in the door versus when I’m making chocolate and making things in advance. That’s like wine and cigars or precious cargo, where you’re releasing stock. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My favorite menu items are the Tourteau Fromage or Goat Cheese Souffle with a salad. I’ve been trying to perfect it for a while. I wouldn’t call it a cheesecake because it’s lighter than that. Have it with a drizzle of early harvest olive oil and Hawaiian pink salt. The other thing I really like is the vegetarian tartines. We change with the seasons and now we’re into root vegetables that are sliced thin then kept overnight. It’s like vegetable lasagna and we serve it with chickpea spread and salsa verde. We keep it kind of clean and not too garlicky, and there’s also a little Parmesan. People with dietary restrictions can get them. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_52778\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/cheese-torte1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/cheese-torte1000.jpg\" alt=\"Tourteau Fromage aka Savory Goat Cheese Souffle\" title=\"Tourteau Fromage aka Savory Goat Cheese Souffle\" width=\"560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-52778\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tourteau Fromage aka Savory Goat Cheese Souffle\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Two of our workers are gluten intolerant so we’re working on gluten-free bread. A lot of gluten-free people make requests, too. Gluten-free bread mixes differently, and bakes differently. It burns really fast. Some gluten-free bread turns out good, and some of it’s like cardboard. There’s a really good gluten-free flour that Thomas Keller has. I made pasta and pastry crust with it and also made pastry crust with it and cut butter into it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As for the vegan thing, we can serve it without the cheese. We have an apiary across the street and the woman who lives upstairs is managing it. She pulls the combs off. We have big slabs and racks. The spring honey is very light and clear. The one from last week is like blackstrap molasses. The bees are local, and they’re traveling 4-5 miles. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Chocolate Lab is inspired by your early years as a savory and pastry chef and your travels with Jacky. How did that come about?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nRecchiuti: The whole concept is about our travels to Paris. We would always go into this tartine shop in the 6th arrondissement and were fascinated because it was right next to the famous bakery called \u003ca href=\"http://www.poilane.com/pages/en/company_boutiques.php\">Poilâne\u003c/a>. They serve beer, wine, a tartine and salad. That’s it. They make the bread.\u003cbr>\nThe other funny thing is I used to make the tarte tatin [dessert] during the last job I had in Vermont. There was a British chef who said, “You have no idea what you’re doing. Let me show you how to make it.” His version was so much more rustic and refined in the amount of butter and the amount of pastry. Once I tried his, I was like, “This is fantastic.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What’s the secret to working together and staying married?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nRecchiuti: We both divide and conquer. Jacky’s over at the office working and I’m here working. A lot of times we are in the same physical space. We give each other autonomy and space. I try not to interfere in what she’s working on. It’s hard to shake talking about work, how to craft and shape it. We’ve been together for 20 years.... \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What are you most passionate about food-wise? \u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nRecchiuti: All the fresh ingredients we’ve been getting from the farms: winter greens and the root vegetables. I didn't realize there were so many kinds of carrots. The watermelon radishes are wonderful. They drop it off at 4 a.m. and it’s like a gift. It’s nice to not work with chocolate -- I love chocolate but it’s a nice shift. With this great produce, you don’t have to manipulate and do too much to the product. That’s probably where Alice Waters and everyone started: out of the ground and onto the table. We can do that here in California and we’re spoiled that way. It was different on the East Coast. You cut, chop, puree, and blanch unless it’s summer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Who are your mentors?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nRecchiuti: Raymond Moderski owned a bunch of restaurants. He spent a lot time working with me in my teens and twenties allowing me to see how things worked. We’d go to his house and bake all day long. He’d do that because he loved it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pascal Janvier from \u003ca href=\"http://www.fleurdecocoa.com/\">Fleur de Cocoa\u003c/a> in Los Gatos is another mentor. He recently sold his business and packed his bags to go to Australia with his wife. I worked with him a lot when I was on the East Coast. He was patient and very generous with information. A lot of European chefs aren’t like that. They yell.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What are the best and worst things about being in the confection and restaurant business? \u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nRecchiuti: The best part for both? Before we opened Chocolate Lab, my work was behind the scenes. Here you’re more directly involved with people as they’re having their experience. You get to experience in real time both criticism and accolades. It helps your craft to know immediately what people like and what they don’t like. The hard part is figuring out how to do it well. You can’t make everyone happy. We’re tweaking the menu descriptions and just listening. That way, people will help me craft it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What are the lessons you’ve learned on the way?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nRecchiuti: I did a fig and pink peppercorn and realized it tasted like dirt. It just didn’t work. Then there was a chocolate beet torte and I couldn't put the word “beet” on the menu. People would enjoy it, but then they’d see the pink in the torte and say, “What’s that?” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong> Bay Area Bites: Do you have any favorite Bay Area spots?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nRecchiuti: \u003ca href=\"http://www.bartartine.com/\">Bar Tartine\u003c/a> is really fun. I love what he’s doing with all the seasoning and dry herbs, bold flavors and textures. The wine list is really good. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sometimes we don’t make it as far as \u003ca href=\"http://www.digwinesf.com/contact.html\">Dig wine\u003c/a> around the corner. We’ll have a glass of wine between lunch and dinner service. We live here and I call it \"The Chocolate Triangle\" because we have Little Nib, Chocolate Lab and our warehouse all nearby. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>INFORMATION:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://chocolatelabsf.com/\">Chocolate Lab\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Address:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://goo.gl/maps/XJeAA\">Map\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n807 22nd St (at Tennessee St.)\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94107\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Phone:\u003c/strong> 415-489-2882\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Hours:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nSun 12pm–5pm,\u003cbr>\nClosed Monday\u003cbr>\nTues–Thurs 11am–10pm,\u003cbr>\nFri & Sat 11am–11pm\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Facebook:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/chocolatelabsf\">Chocolate Lab\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Twitter:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/ChocolateLabSF\">@ChocolateLabSF\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_52337\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 248px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/RiceCookiesGlutenFree.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/RiceCookiesGlutenFree.jpg\" alt=\"Gluten-free rice cookies. Photo: Getty Images\" title=\"Gluten-free rice cookies. Photo: Getty Images\" width=\"248\" height=\"140\" class=\"size-full wp-image-52337\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Gluten-free rice cookies. Photo: Getty Images\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>If you're gluten-free, going to the grocery store used to mean spending hours reading labels to avoid anything with wheat, barley or other grains. But with the rising number of people with celiac disease and gluten intolerance, more stores and restaurants are offering gluten-free foods. KQED's Forum discusses the rise of gluten-free diets.\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/a/forum/R201212071000\">Original Broadcast:\u003c/a> Fri, Dec 7, 2012 -- 10:00 AM\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Listen to the radio program:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n [audio src=\"http://www.kqed.org/.stream/anon/radio/forum/2012/12/20121207bforum.mp3\"] \u003cbr clear=\"all\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Host:\u003c/strong> Dave Iverson\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Guests:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>Neilsen Fernandez-Becker, associate director of the Celiac Management Clinic at the Stanford School of Medicine\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Jefferson Adams, writer at \u003ca href=\"http://www.celiac.com/\">Celiac.com\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Melinda Dennis, dietician and nutrition coordinator with the Celiac Center at Beth Israel Deaconess Medical Center, sufferer from celiac disease, and co-author of \"\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Real-Celiac-Disease-Melinda-Dennis/dp/1603560084\">Real Life with Celiac Disease: Troubleshooting and Thriving Gluten-Free\u003c/a>\"\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Sadie Scheffer, owner and founder of \u003ca href=\"http://www.breadsrsly.com/\">BreadSRSLY.com\u003c/a>, which delivers gluten-free breads around the city\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>More info:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/tag/gluten-free/\">Gluten-Free Posts\u003c/a> (BAB)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.bidmc.org/CentersandDepartments/Departments/DigestiveDiseaseCenter/CeliacCenter.aspx\">Celiac Center at Beth Israel Deaconess Medical Center\u003c/a>\n\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.celiac.com/\">Celiac.com\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.celiaccommunity.org/\">Celiac Community Foundation of Northern California\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/a/perspectives/R201202070735\">\"Life Without Gluten\"\u003c/a> (Perspectives)\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n",
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"disqusTitle": "KQED's Forum: Drakes Bay Oyster Company Sues to Stay",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_52263\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 248px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/DrakesBayOysterHarvest20121204.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/DrakesBayOysterHarvest20121204.jpg\" alt=\"Drakes Bay Oyster Co. workers harvest strings of oysters on Schooner Bay June 7, 2007 in Point Reyes Station. Photo: Justin Sullivan/Getty Images \" title=\"Drakes Bay Oyster Co. workers harvest strings of oysters on Schooner Bay June 7, 2007 in Point Reyes Station. Photo: Justin Sullivan/Getty Images \" width=\"248\" height=\"140\" class=\"size-full wp-image-52263\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Drakes Bay Oyster Co. workers harvest strings of oysters on Schooner Bay June 7, 2007 in Point Reyes Station. Photo: Justin Sullivan/Getty Images \u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Drakes Bay Oyster Company is fighting back after the federal government refused to renew its lease in Point Reyes National Seashore last week. The National Park Service and its environmentalist allies want to return the area to marine wilderness. But the company is suing to overturn the decision, and many oyster lovers are rallying to its defense.\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/a/forum/R201212050900\">Original Broadcast:\u003c/a> Wed, Dec 5, 2012 -- 9:00 AM\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Listen to the radio program:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n [audio src=\"http://www.kqed.org/.stream/anon/radio/forum/2012/12/20121205aaforum.mp3\"] \u003cbr clear=\"all\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Host:\u003c/strong> Michael Krasny\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Guests:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>Kevin Lunny, farmer and owner of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.drakesbayoyster.com/\">Drakes Bay Oyster Company\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Neal Desai, associate director of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.npca.org/\">National Parks Conservation Association\u003c/a>, which actively supported the agreement to let the oyster farm lease expire and wants the estuary returned to natural wilderness\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>More info:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/news/2012/12/04/pt-reyes-oyster-farm-sues-government/\">Pt. Reyes Oyster Farm Sues Government\u003c/a> (News Fix)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.eastbayexpress.com/92510/archives/2012/12/05/drakes-bay-oyster-company-turns-to-koch-brothers-linked-group\">Drakes Bay Oyster Company Turns to Koch Brothers-Linked Group\u003c/a> (East Bay Express)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/science/article/U-S-evicting-Point-Reyes-oyster-farmer-4077624.php#page-1\">U.S. evicting Point Reyes oyster farmer\u003c/a> (SFGate)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/science/article/Drakes-Bay-Oyster-Co-sues-feds-in-fight-over-farm-4090937.php\">Drakes Bay Oyster Co. sues feds in fight over farm\u003c/a> (SFGate)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://green.blogs.nytimes.com/2012/12/04/a-park-an-oyster-farm-and-science-epilogue/\">A Park, an Oyster Farm and Science: Epilogue\u003c/a> (NYTimes Green)\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_52263\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 248px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/DrakesBayOysterHarvest20121204.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/DrakesBayOysterHarvest20121204.jpg\" alt=\"Drakes Bay Oyster Co. workers harvest strings of oysters on Schooner Bay June 7, 2007 in Point Reyes Station. Photo: Justin Sullivan/Getty Images \" title=\"Drakes Bay Oyster Co. workers harvest strings of oysters on Schooner Bay June 7, 2007 in Point Reyes Station. Photo: Justin Sullivan/Getty Images \" width=\"248\" height=\"140\" class=\"size-full wp-image-52263\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Drakes Bay Oyster Co. workers harvest strings of oysters on Schooner Bay June 7, 2007 in Point Reyes Station. Photo: Justin Sullivan/Getty Images \u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Drakes Bay Oyster Company is fighting back after the federal government refused to renew its lease in Point Reyes National Seashore last week. The National Park Service and its environmentalist allies want to return the area to marine wilderness. But the company is suing to overturn the decision, and many oyster lovers are rallying to its defense.\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/a/forum/R201212050900\">Original Broadcast:\u003c/a> Wed, Dec 5, 2012 -- 9:00 AM\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Listen to the radio program:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n \u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp> \u003cbr clear=\"all\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Host:\u003c/strong> Michael Krasny\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Guests:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>Kevin Lunny, farmer and owner of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.drakesbayoyster.com/\">Drakes Bay Oyster Company\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Neal Desai, associate director of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.npca.org/\">National Parks Conservation Association\u003c/a>, which actively supported the agreement to let the oyster farm lease expire and wants the estuary returned to natural wilderness\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>More info:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/news/2012/12/04/pt-reyes-oyster-farm-sues-government/\">Pt. Reyes Oyster Farm Sues Government\u003c/a> (News Fix)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.eastbayexpress.com/92510/archives/2012/12/05/drakes-bay-oyster-company-turns-to-koch-brothers-linked-group\">Drakes Bay Oyster Company Turns to Koch Brothers-Linked Group\u003c/a> (East Bay Express)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/science/article/U-S-evicting-Point-Reyes-oyster-farmer-4077624.php#page-1\">U.S. evicting Point Reyes oyster farmer\u003c/a> (SFGate)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/science/article/Drakes-Bay-Oyster-Co-sues-feds-in-fight-over-farm-4090937.php\">Drakes Bay Oyster Co. sues feds in fight over farm\u003c/a> (SFGate)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://green.blogs.nytimes.com/2012/12/04/a-park-an-oyster-farm-and-science-epilogue/\">A Park, an Oyster Farm and Science: Epilogue\u003c/a> (NYTimes Green)\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "Q&A with Rebecca Kaplan, Oakland's Councilmember At-Large",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_51817\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/560_BAB_AlisonYin_RebeccaKaplanPrint.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/560_BAB_AlisonYin_RebeccaKaplanPrint.jpg\" alt=\"Rebecca Kaplan. Photo by Alison Yin\" title=\"Rebecca Kaplan. Photo by Alison Yin\" width=\"560\" height=\"374\" class=\"size-full wp-image-51817\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Rebecca Kaplan. Photo by Alison Yin\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://kaplanforoakland.org/bio\">Rebecca Kaplan\u003c/a> has been an \u003ca href=\"http://www2.oaklandnet.com/Government/o/CityCouncil/o/AtLarge/a/Profile/index.htm\">Oakland City Councilmember\u003c/a> since 2008 and this month celebrated getting over 61 percent of the vote in an instant runoff election. Kaplan is openly gay and has spent her time in office championing equality, public safety, economic development -- with food playing an important role -- and other issues relevant to the port city. Kaplan talked with us recently about the election, what’s next, and why she \u003cem>really\u003c/em> wants a Jewish deli in Oakland. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Food production and dining are central to her plans to help Oakland grow economically. Kaplan helped introduce the \u003ca href=\"http://yum.sfstation.com/2012/06/20/pods-sprout-in-oakland/\">food pod events\u003c/a> that allow gourmet food trucks to operate legally. During our interview, she was enthusiastic about Oakland, and things like the expanded hours for the \u003ca href=\"http://www.meetdowntownoak.com/shuttle.php\">free Broadway shuttle\u003c/a>, which runs to popular restaurant-dense areas and is a “great way for people to explore the hot, hopping scene here.” Kaplan’s comments have been edited for length and grammar.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: How does it feel to have won the election?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nKaplan: It feels great. I’m really happy of course for my own victory with 61 percent but also for the bigger picture. It's a great moment for Oakland. We have several folks coming on to the city council and the people who ran the most divisive campaign, lost. It’s a really healthy moment. The division and negativity did not prevail. I think we’ll have a more functional city council dynamic going forward. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What are your goals for food policy, urban agriculture & animal husbandry? \u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nKaplan: The food industry is one of the remarkable success stories in Oakland. We have restaurants and growing food manufacturers. \u003ca href=\"http://www.bluebottlecoffee.com/\">Blue Bottle\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.lindenbeer.com/\">Linden Street Brewery\u003c/a>, wineries, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.numitea.com/\">Numi tea\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.bttrventures.com/\">Back to the Roots\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://hodosoy.com/\">Hodo Soy\u003c/a> are all here. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Food is a great thing to have for community vibrancy. It’s a very strong element for Oakland’s second development and creates quite a lot of jobs. It's important that we support the food sector. There’s a lot more demand and we can really harness that here since we have the retail space. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For gardening and farming, that’s a great growth area that is creating new vibrancy in the Uptown area and contributing to our economic revitalization. Now we have the food pods with Bites on Broadway. The food truck cluster events were not allowed -- that was a law that I changed and now we have seen great growth. Another change is to allow home gardening of tomatoes or basil or other edibles as a business. It’s also better for the environment when we’re not transporting produce so far and it's also good for generating jobs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Looking ahead, I see more of the micro industry and allowing people to develop that. We’re going to look at developing more licenses for shared commercial kitchens. If you’re going to make cupcakes, it has to be made in a commercial kitchen to be legal. So the small vendors can timeshare a license to produce a product for sale. That will include developing policies for animal products as well.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: It’s now legal to grow and sell fruits and vegetables at home, but big controversy remains around the idea of having residents raise and slaughter (process) animals for food consumption. The rules around slaughter are still being debated & appear to be a potential bellwether nationally. What are your thoughts on this?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nKaplan: There may be a shared, smaller facility that micro producers and home producers can bring their animals to for processing. We just started discussions and will have details in probably a few months. I think that would be a great innovation to have here. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What else is happening on the food front?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nKaplan: We would also do more economic development for food manufacturing particularly as fuel prices go up and it costs more to transport things and more people are aware of the environmental impact. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Community gardens will be a part of the overall picture. People haven’t been talking about droughts until the droughts hit the farm belt this summer. The droughts are real. They aren’t going away. The notion that we’ll continue with monocropping and ship produce around the world will not be sustainable. We’re incredibly blessed here. We have the public, we have the climate, we have enough rainfall, and it’s not too hot or too cold. It’s not true everywhere in the country. We can easily grow everything from fruit trees to vegetables as well as raise livestock.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another nice sign is we have the micro home beekeepers so we’ll have pollinators. The Midwest is suffering from bee colony collapse. We’ll have honey and pollinators.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One new project is the Oakland unified school district will develop a large commercial shared kitchen with a farm onsite. Instead of our kids being fed bad things, there will be a centrally located space operated by the school that will include culinary training. They will actually prepare food and grow vegetables and students will get training in culinary arts. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: You are out as a lesbian. You were successful in repealing Oakland's \u003ca href=\"http://clerkwebsvr1.oaklandnet.com/attachments/25013.pdf\">Immoral Dress Code 9.08.080\u003c/a> which was instituted in 1879 to ban cross-dressing and was still on the books. Have you ever experienced discrimination in your work life?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nI have experienced discrimination but not so much in Oakland. I came out when I was 17 and went to college in Boston, where I dealt a lot with a variety of anti-gay challenges including drunk frat boys yelling and throwing bottles at me. At MIT I helped pass an anti-discrimination policy on campus. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There has certainly been less than that in Oakland. [Discrimination] may take a more subtle form, where people may not be included in positions of leadership. Are LGBT people being respected and included? It’s not just about not having rocks and bottles thrown.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I remember Rachel Maddow got her TV show in 2008 and that was the first time that anyone who looked like me was in such a prominent position. I get asked by LGBT constituents about whether LGBT people are being considered in police recruiting and positions on citizen commissions. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I also want to make sure I don’t talk about the negative half. Despite the work that we still have to do, I was voted in overwhelmingly. I think we’re in a very good place so far both in terms of what went on and where we’re at. Let’s look at the police and fire departments, the citizens’ commissions and make sure we expand those opportunities as well. We have significant homeless LGBT youth -- and we need to do something about that. Maybe people are thrown out of their home. That is something that has come up here. It was also a great election nationwide, with Tammy Baldwin winning, four states voting in same-sex marriage and we re-elected a President who supports equality for LGBT people. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Where do you eat and shop?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nKaplan: One of the things that’s special about Oakland is we have the waterfront. Take \u003ca href=\"http://bocanova.com/\">Bocanova\u003c/a>, where you can get drinks, snacks, or a whole meal, tapas style. It’s right over the water and they have outdoor seating -- it’s not on a street. The outdoor patio faces the boat slips on the water. Have good food and see something unique and beautiful. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I also like \u003ca href=\"http://www.muaoakland.com/\">Mua\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.picanrestaurant.com/\">Picán\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.plumoakland.com/\">Plum\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.eandjbbq.com/\">Everett & Jones\u003c/a> has serious BBQ, which I highly recommend.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://piedmontgrocery.com/\">Piedmont Grocery\u003c/a>, is a really nice \"one shotter\" chain. People don’t realize but they carry just about everything, even though it doesn't look very big: organics and specialty and also more unusual things as well as regular grocery store stuff.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There’s an amazing \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/natures-best-foods-oakland\">Nature’s Best Foods\u003c/a> on Jackson and 14th halfway between downtown and Lake Merritt -- they have bike racks, are very friendly and have kombucha. That’s always the test, “Do they have kombucha?” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Anyone who hasn’t been a part of Oakland's food fabulousity, come on down! We don’t have an old school Kosher deli. If anyone needs contacts, give me a call. Same for food manufacturing: we can help people find manufacturing zoned buildings and tax enterprise credits. If you’re making tofu, cheese, whatever. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Are you Jewish? How and where do you celebrate the holidays?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nKaplan: Yes. I celebrate them in a variety of different places. This year we did a prayer service in the woods. I grew up in an Orthodox community and I teach Torah kind of anywhere I go. Oakland has more congregations per capita than any other city west of Mississippi. That’s a really powerful thing -- our faith based communities. There’s a wonderful opportunity to share in that with other churches and community. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Both in East Oakland \u003ca href=\"http://www.actsfullgospel.org/\">Acts Full Gospel church\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://www.allen-temple.org/\">Allen Temple Baptist church\u003c/a> work with people coming out of prison to recover their lives, get counseling, get placed in food industry, in construction. That’s a really important part in how we’ll succeed going forward. Disparate imprisonment is one of the most stark expressions of racial injustice and it is destroying people’s lives and families. We need to not be sending people to prison in the first place when they’re not a threat and we also need to work with these programs to help them get jobs and rebuild their lives. \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_51817\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/560_BAB_AlisonYin_RebeccaKaplanPrint.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/560_BAB_AlisonYin_RebeccaKaplanPrint.jpg\" alt=\"Rebecca Kaplan. Photo by Alison Yin\" title=\"Rebecca Kaplan. Photo by Alison Yin\" width=\"560\" height=\"374\" class=\"size-full wp-image-51817\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Rebecca Kaplan. Photo by Alison Yin\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://kaplanforoakland.org/bio\">Rebecca Kaplan\u003c/a> has been an \u003ca href=\"http://www2.oaklandnet.com/Government/o/CityCouncil/o/AtLarge/a/Profile/index.htm\">Oakland City Councilmember\u003c/a> since 2008 and this month celebrated getting over 61 percent of the vote in an instant runoff election. Kaplan is openly gay and has spent her time in office championing equality, public safety, economic development -- with food playing an important role -- and other issues relevant to the port city. Kaplan talked with us recently about the election, what’s next, and why she \u003cem>really\u003c/em> wants a Jewish deli in Oakland. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Food production and dining are central to her plans to help Oakland grow economically. Kaplan helped introduce the \u003ca href=\"http://yum.sfstation.com/2012/06/20/pods-sprout-in-oakland/\">food pod events\u003c/a> that allow gourmet food trucks to operate legally. During our interview, she was enthusiastic about Oakland, and things like the expanded hours for the \u003ca href=\"http://www.meetdowntownoak.com/shuttle.php\">free Broadway shuttle\u003c/a>, which runs to popular restaurant-dense areas and is a “great way for people to explore the hot, hopping scene here.” Kaplan’s comments have been edited for length and grammar.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: How does it feel to have won the election?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nKaplan: It feels great. I’m really happy of course for my own victory with 61 percent but also for the bigger picture. It's a great moment for Oakland. We have several folks coming on to the city council and the people who ran the most divisive campaign, lost. It’s a really healthy moment. The division and negativity did not prevail. I think we’ll have a more functional city council dynamic going forward. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What are your goals for food policy, urban agriculture & animal husbandry? \u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nKaplan: The food industry is one of the remarkable success stories in Oakland. We have restaurants and growing food manufacturers. \u003ca href=\"http://www.bluebottlecoffee.com/\">Blue Bottle\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.lindenbeer.com/\">Linden Street Brewery\u003c/a>, wineries, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.numitea.com/\">Numi tea\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.bttrventures.com/\">Back to the Roots\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://hodosoy.com/\">Hodo Soy\u003c/a> are all here. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Food is a great thing to have for community vibrancy. It’s a very strong element for Oakland’s second development and creates quite a lot of jobs. It's important that we support the food sector. There’s a lot more demand and we can really harness that here since we have the retail space. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For gardening and farming, that’s a great growth area that is creating new vibrancy in the Uptown area and contributing to our economic revitalization. Now we have the food pods with Bites on Broadway. The food truck cluster events were not allowed -- that was a law that I changed and now we have seen great growth. Another change is to allow home gardening of tomatoes or basil or other edibles as a business. It’s also better for the environment when we’re not transporting produce so far and it's also good for generating jobs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Looking ahead, I see more of the micro industry and allowing people to develop that. We’re going to look at developing more licenses for shared commercial kitchens. If you’re going to make cupcakes, it has to be made in a commercial kitchen to be legal. So the small vendors can timeshare a license to produce a product for sale. That will include developing policies for animal products as well.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: It’s now legal to grow and sell fruits and vegetables at home, but big controversy remains around the idea of having residents raise and slaughter (process) animals for food consumption. The rules around slaughter are still being debated & appear to be a potential bellwether nationally. What are your thoughts on this?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nKaplan: There may be a shared, smaller facility that micro producers and home producers can bring their animals to for processing. We just started discussions and will have details in probably a few months. I think that would be a great innovation to have here. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What else is happening on the food front?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nKaplan: We would also do more economic development for food manufacturing particularly as fuel prices go up and it costs more to transport things and more people are aware of the environmental impact. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Community gardens will be a part of the overall picture. People haven’t been talking about droughts until the droughts hit the farm belt this summer. The droughts are real. They aren’t going away. The notion that we’ll continue with monocropping and ship produce around the world will not be sustainable. We’re incredibly blessed here. We have the public, we have the climate, we have enough rainfall, and it’s not too hot or too cold. It’s not true everywhere in the country. We can easily grow everything from fruit trees to vegetables as well as raise livestock.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another nice sign is we have the micro home beekeepers so we’ll have pollinators. The Midwest is suffering from bee colony collapse. We’ll have honey and pollinators.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One new project is the Oakland unified school district will develop a large commercial shared kitchen with a farm onsite. Instead of our kids being fed bad things, there will be a centrally located space operated by the school that will include culinary training. They will actually prepare food and grow vegetables and students will get training in culinary arts. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: You are out as a lesbian. You were successful in repealing Oakland's \u003ca href=\"http://clerkwebsvr1.oaklandnet.com/attachments/25013.pdf\">Immoral Dress Code 9.08.080\u003c/a> which was instituted in 1879 to ban cross-dressing and was still on the books. Have you ever experienced discrimination in your work life?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nI have experienced discrimination but not so much in Oakland. I came out when I was 17 and went to college in Boston, where I dealt a lot with a variety of anti-gay challenges including drunk frat boys yelling and throwing bottles at me. At MIT I helped pass an anti-discrimination policy on campus. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There has certainly been less than that in Oakland. [Discrimination] may take a more subtle form, where people may not be included in positions of leadership. Are LGBT people being respected and included? It’s not just about not having rocks and bottles thrown.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I remember Rachel Maddow got her TV show in 2008 and that was the first time that anyone who looked like me was in such a prominent position. I get asked by LGBT constituents about whether LGBT people are being considered in police recruiting and positions on citizen commissions. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I also want to make sure I don’t talk about the negative half. Despite the work that we still have to do, I was voted in overwhelmingly. I think we’re in a very good place so far both in terms of what went on and where we’re at. Let’s look at the police and fire departments, the citizens’ commissions and make sure we expand those opportunities as well. We have significant homeless LGBT youth -- and we need to do something about that. Maybe people are thrown out of their home. That is something that has come up here. It was also a great election nationwide, with Tammy Baldwin winning, four states voting in same-sex marriage and we re-elected a President who supports equality for LGBT people. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Where do you eat and shop?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nKaplan: One of the things that’s special about Oakland is we have the waterfront. Take \u003ca href=\"http://bocanova.com/\">Bocanova\u003c/a>, where you can get drinks, snacks, or a whole meal, tapas style. It’s right over the water and they have outdoor seating -- it’s not on a street. The outdoor patio faces the boat slips on the water. Have good food and see something unique and beautiful. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I also like \u003ca href=\"http://www.muaoakland.com/\">Mua\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.picanrestaurant.com/\">Picán\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.plumoakland.com/\">Plum\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.eandjbbq.com/\">Everett & Jones\u003c/a> has serious BBQ, which I highly recommend.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://piedmontgrocery.com/\">Piedmont Grocery\u003c/a>, is a really nice \"one shotter\" chain. People don’t realize but they carry just about everything, even though it doesn't look very big: organics and specialty and also more unusual things as well as regular grocery store stuff.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There’s an amazing \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/natures-best-foods-oakland\">Nature’s Best Foods\u003c/a> on Jackson and 14th halfway between downtown and Lake Merritt -- they have bike racks, are very friendly and have kombucha. That’s always the test, “Do they have kombucha?” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Anyone who hasn’t been a part of Oakland's food fabulousity, come on down! We don’t have an old school Kosher deli. If anyone needs contacts, give me a call. Same for food manufacturing: we can help people find manufacturing zoned buildings and tax enterprise credits. If you’re making tofu, cheese, whatever. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Are you Jewish? How and where do you celebrate the holidays?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nKaplan: Yes. I celebrate them in a variety of different places. This year we did a prayer service in the woods. I grew up in an Orthodox community and I teach Torah kind of anywhere I go. Oakland has more congregations per capita than any other city west of Mississippi. That’s a really powerful thing -- our faith based communities. There’s a wonderful opportunity to share in that with other churches and community. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Both in East Oakland \u003ca href=\"http://www.actsfullgospel.org/\">Acts Full Gospel church\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://www.allen-temple.org/\">Allen Temple Baptist church\u003c/a> work with people coming out of prison to recover their lives, get counseling, get placed in food industry, in construction. That’s a really important part in how we’ll succeed going forward. Disparate imprisonment is one of the most stark expressions of racial injustice and it is destroying people’s lives and families. We need to not be sending people to prison in the first place when they’re not a threat and we also need to work with these programs to help them get jobs and rebuild their lives. \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>Small food business partners Valerie Luu & Katie Kwan of \u003ca href=\"http://www.ricepaperscissors.com/\">Rice Paper Scissors\u003c/a>, a pop-up cafe serving Vietnamese food located in San Francisco, share their vision: integrating their eastern culinary heritage with the trending western street food culture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_51970\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/rice-paper-scissors560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/rice-paper-scissors560.jpg\" alt=\"Rice Paper Scissors - Valerie Luu and Katie Kwan\" title=\"Rice Paper Scissors - Valerie Luu and Katie Kwan\" width=\"560\" height=\"308\" class=\"size-full wp-image-51970\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Rice Paper Scissors - Valerie Luu and Katie Kwan\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Information:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.ricepaperscissors.com/\">Rice Paper Scissors\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/ricepapersf\">@ricepapersf\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/ricepaperscissors\">Rice Paper Scissors\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Small food business partners Valerie Luu & Katie Kwan of \u003ca href=\"http://www.ricepaperscissors.com/\">Rice Paper Scissors\u003c/a>, a pop-up cafe serving Vietnamese food located in San Francisco, share their vision: integrating their eastern culinary heritage with the trending western street food culture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_51970\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/rice-paper-scissors560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/rice-paper-scissors560.jpg\" alt=\"Rice Paper Scissors - Valerie Luu and Katie Kwan\" title=\"Rice Paper Scissors - Valerie Luu and Katie Kwan\" width=\"560\" height=\"308\" class=\"size-full wp-image-51970\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Rice Paper Scissors - Valerie Luu and Katie Kwan\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Information:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.ricepaperscissors.com/\">Rice Paper Scissors\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/ricepapersf\">@ricepapersf\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/ricepaperscissors\">Rice Paper Scissors\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "Q&A with Pastry Chef and Chocolate Expert Yigit Pura",
"title": "Q&A with Pastry Chef and Chocolate Expert Yigit Pura",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_51713\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/BAB_400Yigitc-Frankeny-Images.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/BAB_400Yigitc-Frankeny-Images.jpg\" alt=\"Yigit Pura. Photo courtesy of Frankeny Images.\" title=\"Yigit Pura. Photo courtesy of Frankeny Images.\" width=\"400\" height=\"537\" class=\"size-full wp-image-51713\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Yigit Pura. Photo courtesy of Frankeny Images.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>After winning the first season of \u003ca href=\"http://www.bravotv.com/top-chef-just-desserts/bio/yigit-pura\">Top Chef Desserts\u003c/a>, pastry dynamo Yigit Pura set his sights on opening his own \u003ca href=\"http://www.toutsweetsf.com/\">Tout Sweet Pâtisserie\u003c/a>. The sweet shop is full of treats from caramels, croissants, macarons (named after his favorite folks, including 7x7 editor Chloe Harris Frankeny), marshmallows, cakes and other confitures and marks a partnership with Taste Catering’s co-owners, MeMe Pederson and Janet Griggs. \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/YigitPura\">Pura\u003c/a> has a book in the works and was recently a spokesperson for the \u003ca href=\"http://www.chocolateadventurecontest.com/Inspiration.aspx\">Chocolate Adventure Contest from Scharffen Berger®\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pura started making sweets as a tyke in Turkey, where he would spoon up dark caramel with his mother. By age 20, he was training in San Francisco and headed east for stints at Le Cirque 2000, The Four Seasons and Daniel. That led to a promotion as executive pastry chef for Daniel Boulud in Las Vegas, and he eventually returned to SF to work for \u003ca href=\"http://www.tastecatering.com/\">Taste Catering\u003c/a>. Bay Area Bites caught up with Pura recently and his comments have been edited for clarity and length. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: How did Tout Sweet Pâtisserie come about?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nYigit Pura: It's been a twelve-year dream of mine. I've been really blessed to create something so wonderful in San Francisco, a city which I love. Though we opened two months ago, we are quickly growing and adding on different legs. We just started our celebration cakes and our wedding cakes, where I get to consult with people and create a one of a kind cake for each guest. This is truly a treat for a pastry chef.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: And your book?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nYigit Pura: One would think I have ample free time... opening a store, writing a book. But this has been so much fun. It's titled \"Sweet Alchemy.\" I wanted to break down the barriers for intimidation which people have when it comes to making really special desserts and show people that they can create really wonderful desserts at home, given they can be patient, follow some simple science, and of course put lots of love in it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Who are your mentors?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nYigit Pura: Farmers, because they remind me to be humble in what I do, and respect what nature gives us. Our clients at Tout Sweet, because their constant desire for a great product inspires me to create every day. Oh, and of course my dog Maui. He teaches me to do everything with love, every single day.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What are the best and worst things about being a chef and business owner?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nYigit Pura: Ask any parent who just had their first child. Their answer will be the same as mine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: You are relatively young yet appear to be a success. What are the lessons you’ve learned on the way?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nYigit Pura: Success. Hmmm. I think success is the process. I wouldn't ever want to consider myself successful, I think it's the drive to be never fully satisfied with everything I've created and gathered is what pushes me every day. But I can't lie, I do love seeing people’s faces as they get giddy with excitement when they look at the products in our store, and more so when they enjoy them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Do you have any favorite Bay Area food spots?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nYigit Pura: \u003ca href=\"http://ericrestaurant.com/\">Eric's Chinese\u003c/a> is great. It's between my kitchen and my boyfriend’s house. Given my long hours it's a magical place. Other than that, I still love going to the Ferry Building on a Saturday before 8am, before the crowds get there, so I can buy produce for Tout Sweet, and enjoy a coffee and sausage sandwich by the bay. It's the small things.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Where do you think the U.S. is for appreciation of other cultures?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nYigit Pura: I think the U.S. has done a great job at celebrating other cultures’ cuisines. Culinary options -- from Ethiopian to Korean to Indian -- are readily available in cities across the United States. Challenging yourself to try different cuisines is important. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Have you ever experienced discrimination in the kitchen?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nYigit Pura: High-end, fine-dining kitchens tend to be really high-testosterone, macho working environments. As an openly gay chef, I had to work very hard to earn respect in New York kitchens early in my career. However, whether you are gay or straight, Muslim, Christian or Buddhist, people love food and I’ve found that is a great homogenizing point. People love desserts and it’s a great way to break the ice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_51714\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/BAB_ScharffenBerger.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/BAB_ScharffenBerger.jpg\" alt=\"Chloe’s Chili-infused Mudslides. Image courtesy of Scharffen Berger\" title=\"Chloe’s Chili-infused Mudslides. Image courtesy of Scharffen Berger\" width=\"560\" height=\"373\" class=\"size-full wp-image-51714\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chloe’s Chili-infused Mudslides. Image courtesy of Scharffen Berger\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Tell us about the Chocolate Adventure Contest. There are ingredients that are definitely different -- any tips for diving in for consumers?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nYigit Pura: The Chocolate Adventure Contest asks bakers of any skill level to create an original sandwich cookie recipe using at least one Scharffen Berger chocolate product and at least one of twelve predetermined “adventure ingredients.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When it comes to matters of being inspired, I always tell people go with your instinct. And if you find it's a horrible pairing, at least you now know better. Sometimes the best combinations come out of lucky mistakes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In my \u003cstrong>Chloe’s Chili-infused Mudslides\u003c/strong> recipe I chose to pair two adventure ingredients: pasilla peppers and Scharffen Berger cocoa nibs, which give the chocolate a flirty and mature twist.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Recipe created by Yigit Pura\u003cbr>\nMakes 25 Sandwich Cookies \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>INGREDIENTS\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For The Ganache:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n4.3 oz. (1/2 cup) heavy cream, plus more for reconstituting\u003cbr>\n3 cloves\u003cbr>\n2 cinnamon sticks\u003cbr>\n1 dried pasilla chili\u003cbr>\n1/2 vanilla bean\u003cbr>\n6.9 oz. Scharffen Berger® 62% Cacao Semisweet Chocolate\u003cbr>\n0.7 oz. (1 1/2 tbs.) honey\u003cbr>\n4.3 oz. (1/2 cup) whole milk\u003cbr>\n1.6 oz. (3 tbs.) egg yolks\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For The Mudslides:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n9 oz. Scharffen Berger® 62% Cacao semisweet chocolate\u003cbr>\n1.6 oz. (3 tbs.) unsalted butter\u003cbr>\n3 large eggs, at room temperature\u003cbr>\n7.5 oz. (scarce 1 cup) granulated sugar\u003cbr>\n0.15 oz. (scarce 1 tsp.) vanilla extract\u003cbr>\n2.1 oz. (1/4 cup) all-purpose flour\u003cbr>\n0.7 oz. (1 1/2 tbs.) baking powder\u003cbr>\n4 oz. Scharffen Berger® 62% Cacao semisweet baking chunks, chopped\u003cbr>\n4.3 oz. (1/2 cup) dried cherries, chopped\u003cbr>\n4.3 oz. (1/2 cup) Scharffen Berger® roasted cacao nibs \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For The Shortbread:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n11.8 oz. (1 1/2 cups) all-purpose flour\u003cbr>\n3.4 oz. (1/3 cup plus 1/2 tsp.)\u003cbr>\nScharffen Berger® Unsweetened Natural Cocoa Powder\u003cbr>\n1.8 oz. (1/4 cup) almond flour\u003cbr>\n0.1 oz. (2/3 tsp.) table salt\u003cbr>\n9 oz. (1 cup and 2 tbs.) unsalted butter at room temperature\u003cbr>\n5.5 oz. (2/3 cup) powdered sugar, sifted\u003cbr>\n2 large eggs\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>PROCESS\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Make The Ganache:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nHeat cream in a small pan over medium heat. Add cloves, cinnamon sticks, chili and vanilla and let steep for 30 minutes. With a hand blender, buzz cream for a few seconds to fully bring out flavor. Strain and reconstitute with fresh cream to original 4.3 oz. to make up for loss in the infusing process.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Melt chocolate over a water bath. Reheat infused cream with honey and milk. Temper yolks into hot cream mixture and cook, stirring constantly, until thickened and coating the back of a spoon, or until 180° F (like crème anglaise). Once the custard is cooked, strain into a pitcher and add to melted chocolate in three additions, stirring with a spatula to emulsify. Cool ganache in a shallow dish, with plastic wrap directly on top, at room temperature for 2 to 3 hours until it’s the consistency of soft fudge. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Make The Mudslides:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nPreheat the oven at 325° F. Sift together all-purpose flour and baking powder. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Melt together chocolate and butter over a water bath and keep warm. In mixing bowl, combine eggs, sugar and vanilla extract and whisk to dissolve the sugar. Add melted chocolate and butter and mix to combine. Add sifted ingredients and stir gently to combine. Add chocolate chunks and dried tart cherries. Allow to set in the fridge for 30 minutes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Scoop onto baking trays and roll generously with the cacao nibs. Place on a cookie tray lined with parchment and bake until set, but still soft, about 6 minutes. Then rotate pan and bake 2 to 3 minutes longer. The cookies should still be soft to the touch and barely set. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Make The Shortbread:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nSift together all-purpose flour, cocoa powder, almond flour and salt. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a mixing bowl fitted with the paddle attachment, cream butter and powdered sugar until smooth. Add eggs one at a time, incorporating fully each time. Add sifted ingredients and mix slowly until smooth. Wrap dough in plastic and chill for at least 1 hour or until firm enough to roll out. Roll dough evenly until it’s about 1/8-inch thick. Cut out small discs of dough, using a 1/2-inch wide round cookie cutter and bake until set around the edges for 7 to 9 minutes. Allow to cool at room temperature. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Assemble The Sandwiches:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nPlace mudslides with the flat side up. Using a piping bag with a #3 plain round tip, pipe ganache drops on top of the cookie in an upward motion.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lightly dust the chocolate shortbread tops with powdered sugar, and gently put “hats” on top of the ganache. \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Mary Ladd interviews chef Yigit Pura, who shares what it's like to open a popular patisserie, write a cookbook and craft recipes. Pura is passionate about pastry and eager to get consumers interested in baking with unusual \"adventure\" ingredients. ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_51713\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/BAB_400Yigitc-Frankeny-Images.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/BAB_400Yigitc-Frankeny-Images.jpg\" alt=\"Yigit Pura. Photo courtesy of Frankeny Images.\" title=\"Yigit Pura. Photo courtesy of Frankeny Images.\" width=\"400\" height=\"537\" class=\"size-full wp-image-51713\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Yigit Pura. Photo courtesy of Frankeny Images.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>After winning the first season of \u003ca href=\"http://www.bravotv.com/top-chef-just-desserts/bio/yigit-pura\">Top Chef Desserts\u003c/a>, pastry dynamo Yigit Pura set his sights on opening his own \u003ca href=\"http://www.toutsweetsf.com/\">Tout Sweet Pâtisserie\u003c/a>. The sweet shop is full of treats from caramels, croissants, macarons (named after his favorite folks, including 7x7 editor Chloe Harris Frankeny), marshmallows, cakes and other confitures and marks a partnership with Taste Catering’s co-owners, MeMe Pederson and Janet Griggs. \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/YigitPura\">Pura\u003c/a> has a book in the works and was recently a spokesperson for the \u003ca href=\"http://www.chocolateadventurecontest.com/Inspiration.aspx\">Chocolate Adventure Contest from Scharffen Berger®\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pura started making sweets as a tyke in Turkey, where he would spoon up dark caramel with his mother. By age 20, he was training in San Francisco and headed east for stints at Le Cirque 2000, The Four Seasons and Daniel. That led to a promotion as executive pastry chef for Daniel Boulud in Las Vegas, and he eventually returned to SF to work for \u003ca href=\"http://www.tastecatering.com/\">Taste Catering\u003c/a>. Bay Area Bites caught up with Pura recently and his comments have been edited for clarity and length. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: How did Tout Sweet Pâtisserie come about?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nYigit Pura: It's been a twelve-year dream of mine. I've been really blessed to create something so wonderful in San Francisco, a city which I love. Though we opened two months ago, we are quickly growing and adding on different legs. We just started our celebration cakes and our wedding cakes, where I get to consult with people and create a one of a kind cake for each guest. This is truly a treat for a pastry chef.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: And your book?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nYigit Pura: One would think I have ample free time... opening a store, writing a book. But this has been so much fun. It's titled \"Sweet Alchemy.\" I wanted to break down the barriers for intimidation which people have when it comes to making really special desserts and show people that they can create really wonderful desserts at home, given they can be patient, follow some simple science, and of course put lots of love in it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Who are your mentors?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nYigit Pura: Farmers, because they remind me to be humble in what I do, and respect what nature gives us. Our clients at Tout Sweet, because their constant desire for a great product inspires me to create every day. Oh, and of course my dog Maui. He teaches me to do everything with love, every single day.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What are the best and worst things about being a chef and business owner?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nYigit Pura: Ask any parent who just had their first child. Their answer will be the same as mine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: You are relatively young yet appear to be a success. What are the lessons you’ve learned on the way?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nYigit Pura: Success. Hmmm. I think success is the process. I wouldn't ever want to consider myself successful, I think it's the drive to be never fully satisfied with everything I've created and gathered is what pushes me every day. But I can't lie, I do love seeing people’s faces as they get giddy with excitement when they look at the products in our store, and more so when they enjoy them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Do you have any favorite Bay Area food spots?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nYigit Pura: \u003ca href=\"http://ericrestaurant.com/\">Eric's Chinese\u003c/a> is great. It's between my kitchen and my boyfriend’s house. Given my long hours it's a magical place. Other than that, I still love going to the Ferry Building on a Saturday before 8am, before the crowds get there, so I can buy produce for Tout Sweet, and enjoy a coffee and sausage sandwich by the bay. It's the small things.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Where do you think the U.S. is for appreciation of other cultures?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nYigit Pura: I think the U.S. has done a great job at celebrating other cultures’ cuisines. Culinary options -- from Ethiopian to Korean to Indian -- are readily available in cities across the United States. Challenging yourself to try different cuisines is important. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Have you ever experienced discrimination in the kitchen?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nYigit Pura: High-end, fine-dining kitchens tend to be really high-testosterone, macho working environments. As an openly gay chef, I had to work very hard to earn respect in New York kitchens early in my career. However, whether you are gay or straight, Muslim, Christian or Buddhist, people love food and I’ve found that is a great homogenizing point. People love desserts and it’s a great way to break the ice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_51714\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/BAB_ScharffenBerger.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/BAB_ScharffenBerger.jpg\" alt=\"Chloe’s Chili-infused Mudslides. Image courtesy of Scharffen Berger\" title=\"Chloe’s Chili-infused Mudslides. Image courtesy of Scharffen Berger\" width=\"560\" height=\"373\" class=\"size-full wp-image-51714\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chloe’s Chili-infused Mudslides. Image courtesy of Scharffen Berger\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Tell us about the Chocolate Adventure Contest. There are ingredients that are definitely different -- any tips for diving in for consumers?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nYigit Pura: The Chocolate Adventure Contest asks bakers of any skill level to create an original sandwich cookie recipe using at least one Scharffen Berger chocolate product and at least one of twelve predetermined “adventure ingredients.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When it comes to matters of being inspired, I always tell people go with your instinct. And if you find it's a horrible pairing, at least you now know better. Sometimes the best combinations come out of lucky mistakes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In my \u003cstrong>Chloe’s Chili-infused Mudslides\u003c/strong> recipe I chose to pair two adventure ingredients: pasilla peppers and Scharffen Berger cocoa nibs, which give the chocolate a flirty and mature twist.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Recipe created by Yigit Pura\u003cbr>\nMakes 25 Sandwich Cookies \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>INGREDIENTS\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For The Ganache:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n4.3 oz. (1/2 cup) heavy cream, plus more for reconstituting\u003cbr>\n3 cloves\u003cbr>\n2 cinnamon sticks\u003cbr>\n1 dried pasilla chili\u003cbr>\n1/2 vanilla bean\u003cbr>\n6.9 oz. Scharffen Berger® 62% Cacao Semisweet Chocolate\u003cbr>\n0.7 oz. (1 1/2 tbs.) honey\u003cbr>\n4.3 oz. (1/2 cup) whole milk\u003cbr>\n1.6 oz. (3 tbs.) egg yolks\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For The Mudslides:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n9 oz. Scharffen Berger® 62% Cacao semisweet chocolate\u003cbr>\n1.6 oz. (3 tbs.) unsalted butter\u003cbr>\n3 large eggs, at room temperature\u003cbr>\n7.5 oz. (scarce 1 cup) granulated sugar\u003cbr>\n0.15 oz. (scarce 1 tsp.) vanilla extract\u003cbr>\n2.1 oz. (1/4 cup) all-purpose flour\u003cbr>\n0.7 oz. (1 1/2 tbs.) baking powder\u003cbr>\n4 oz. Scharffen Berger® 62% Cacao semisweet baking chunks, chopped\u003cbr>\n4.3 oz. (1/2 cup) dried cherries, chopped\u003cbr>\n4.3 oz. (1/2 cup) Scharffen Berger® roasted cacao nibs \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For The Shortbread:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n11.8 oz. (1 1/2 cups) all-purpose flour\u003cbr>\n3.4 oz. (1/3 cup plus 1/2 tsp.)\u003cbr>\nScharffen Berger® Unsweetened Natural Cocoa Powder\u003cbr>\n1.8 oz. (1/4 cup) almond flour\u003cbr>\n0.1 oz. (2/3 tsp.) table salt\u003cbr>\n9 oz. (1 cup and 2 tbs.) unsalted butter at room temperature\u003cbr>\n5.5 oz. (2/3 cup) powdered sugar, sifted\u003cbr>\n2 large eggs\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>PROCESS\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Make The Ganache:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nHeat cream in a small pan over medium heat. Add cloves, cinnamon sticks, chili and vanilla and let steep for 30 minutes. With a hand blender, buzz cream for a few seconds to fully bring out flavor. Strain and reconstitute with fresh cream to original 4.3 oz. to make up for loss in the infusing process.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Melt chocolate over a water bath. Reheat infused cream with honey and milk. Temper yolks into hot cream mixture and cook, stirring constantly, until thickened and coating the back of a spoon, or until 180° F (like crème anglaise). Once the custard is cooked, strain into a pitcher and add to melted chocolate in three additions, stirring with a spatula to emulsify. Cool ganache in a shallow dish, with plastic wrap directly on top, at room temperature for 2 to 3 hours until it’s the consistency of soft fudge. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Make The Mudslides:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nPreheat the oven at 325° F. Sift together all-purpose flour and baking powder. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Melt together chocolate and butter over a water bath and keep warm. In mixing bowl, combine eggs, sugar and vanilla extract and whisk to dissolve the sugar. Add melted chocolate and butter and mix to combine. Add sifted ingredients and stir gently to combine. Add chocolate chunks and dried tart cherries. Allow to set in the fridge for 30 minutes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Scoop onto baking trays and roll generously with the cacao nibs. Place on a cookie tray lined with parchment and bake until set, but still soft, about 6 minutes. Then rotate pan and bake 2 to 3 minutes longer. The cookies should still be soft to the touch and barely set. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Make The Shortbread:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nSift together all-purpose flour, cocoa powder, almond flour and salt. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a mixing bowl fitted with the paddle attachment, cream butter and powdered sugar until smooth. Add eggs one at a time, incorporating fully each time. Add sifted ingredients and mix slowly until smooth. Wrap dough in plastic and chill for at least 1 hour or until firm enough to roll out. Roll dough evenly until it’s about 1/8-inch thick. Cut out small discs of dough, using a 1/2-inch wide round cookie cutter and bake until set around the edges for 7 to 9 minutes. Allow to cool at room temperature. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Assemble The Sandwiches:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nPlace mudslides with the flat side up. Using a piping bag with a #3 plain round tip, pipe ganache drops on top of the cookie in an upward motion.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lightly dust the chocolate shortbread tops with powdered sugar, and gently put “hats” on top of the ganache. \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "East Bay Bagel Smackdown: Beauty's vs. Authentic Bagel Co.",
"title": "East Bay Bagel Smackdown: Beauty's vs. Authentic Bagel Co.",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/Authentic1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/Authentic1000.jpg\" alt=\"Authentic Bagels\" title=\"Authentic Bagels\" width=\"277\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-52022\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/beautys-bagels-group1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/beautys-bagels-group1000.jpg\" alt=\"Beauty's Bagels\" title=\"Beauty's Bagels\" width=\"277\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>All Photos:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/wendy-goodfriend/\">\u003cstrong>Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Food trends go in waves, even right in your neighborhood. Upscale frozen desserts, creative doughnuts, thin-crust pizza, retro cocktails with three kinds of artisanal bitters in them: they aren't there, and then, suddenly, five places selling them spring up within a handful of blocks. \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/donutsavant\">Donut Savant\u003c/a> begets \u003ca href=\"http://www.facebook.com/DoughnutDolly\">Doughnut Dolly\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.facebook.com/icicream\">Ici's\u003c/a> banana-curry ice cream is followed by \u003ca href=\"http://www.facebook.com/screamsorbet\">Scream's\u003c/a> coconut-Thai basil sorbet. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_52042\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/beautys1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/beautys1000.jpg\" alt=\"Beauty's Bagels interior\" title=\"Beauty's Bagels interior\" width=\"560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-52042\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Beauty's Bagels interior\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/beautys-bagels-sign1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/beautys-bagels-sign1000.jpg\" alt=\"Beauty's Bagels exterior with sign\" title=\"Beauty's Bagels exterior with sign\" width=\"277\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-52058\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/tomatoes-over-beautys1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/tomatoes-over-beautys1000.jpg\" alt=\"Beauty's Bagels front counter\" title=\"Beauty's Bagels front counter\" width=\"277\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-52066\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/baking-bagels-beautys1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/baking-bagels-beautys1000.jpg\" alt=\"Blake Joffe making bagels at Beauty's Bagels\" title=\"Blake Joffe making bagels at Beauty's Bagels\" width=\"277\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-52056\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/beautys-bagel-toss1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/beautys-bagel-toss1000.jpg\" alt=\"Blake Joffe about to toss bagels at Beauty's Bagels\" title=\"Blake Joffe about to toss bagels at Beauty's Bagels\" width=\"277\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-52059\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Right now bagels, humble and homey as they are, are having their moment. After months of weekend-only deliveries to \u003ca href=\"http://www.wisesonsdeli.com\">Wise Sons Deli\u003c/a>, and much anticipation in the press, \u003ca href=\"http://www.facebook.com/beautysbagelshop\">Beauty's Bagel Shop\u003c/a> opened on the southern stretch of Telegraph at 38th, not far from Homeroom, mecca of mac-and-cheese. This isn't the vegan-cheese, $20-pizza, $12-quesadillas part of Telegraph; it's the part where beauty-supply shops alternate with nail salons and Chinese take-out joints, and billboards overhead tout credit repair and help getting your GED. But the Mission-East Temescal contingent have found their way inside, with all the tattoos and t-shirt irony that implies. (On one counter worker: a t-shirt emblazoned \"Heaven knows I'm miserable now.\" Yes, I get the Smiths' reference, and anyone who's worked a counter can sympathize, but is that really the best choice of attire for service with a smile?)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/beautys-blake-joffe700.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/beautys-blake-joffe700.jpg\" alt=\"Blake Joffe bagelmaker and co-owner of Beauty's Bagels\" title=\"Blake Joffe bagelmaker and co-owner of Beauty's Bagels\" width=\"277\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-52060\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/bagels-oven700.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/bagels-oven700.jpg\" alt=\"Blake Joffe slides bagels into the wood-fire oven\" title=\"Blake Joffe slides bagels into the wood-fire oven\" width=\"277\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-52095\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/rolling-bagels-beautys700.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/rolling-bagels-beautys700.jpg\" alt=\"Rolling and weighing out bagels at Beauty's Bagels\" title=\"Rolling and weighing out bagels at Beauty's Bagels\" width=\"277\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-52064\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/beauty-bagels700.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/beauty-bagels700.jpg\" alt=\"Beauty's Bagels\" title=\"Beauty's Bagels\" width=\"277\" class=\"size-full wp-image-52041\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bagels come out in waves, baked in a wood-fired oven and expertly, showily flipped by Beauty owner-baker Blake Joffe into a long, seed-scattered chute before filling the bins behind the cash register, still oven-hot. (The flip is really just for show, the bagel-baker's version of the Pike Place Market salmon toss.\"Kids love it,\" he deadpans.) Any bagel is delicious fresh out of the oven, and these don't disappoint. They're nicely sized, not puffed-up behemoths. The crust is a slim, shiny coating instead of a sink-your-teeth-in-and-pull that I remember as a highlight of the bagels of my New York/New York childhood, but the crumb has just the right balance of density and loft. And the whole-wheat bagels, both sesame and \"everything\" (fennel, caraway, poppy, and sesame seeds, plus salt, pepper, and onion), manage to taste both healthy and bagel-y, with a full whole-grain taste that nonetheless still pushes the right bagel button, even if the green, licorice-y flavor of fennel isn't exactly part of the typical salty-savory everything-bagel experience. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_52063\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/beautys-owners1000a1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/beautys-owners1000a1.jpg\" alt=\"Owners of Beauty's Bagels - Blake Joffe and Amy Remsen\" title=\"Owners of Beauty's Bagels - Blake Joffe and Amy Remsen\" width=\"560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-52063\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Owners of Beauty's Bagels - Blake Joffe and Amy Remsen\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"It's a hybrid bagel,\" says Joffe.\"Not exactly Montreal, not exactly New York.\" Having moved to Oakland from Philadelphia, Joffe and his co-owner and partner Amy Remsen also plan to offer some tastes of Pennsylvania on their menu, like scrapple and sticky buns. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now that local tomatoes are out of season, they're off the menu, which is a sad loss for the otherwise tasty lox sandwich, thick slices of Scottish-salmon lox from \u003ca href=\"http://water2table.com/\">Water 2 Table\u003c/a>, swathed over pleasantly tangy Sierra Nevada cream cheese (no relation to the beer), with red onions and plenty of capers. The two tiny half-moon pickle slices alongside seem stingy until I ask Remsen and Joffe, who admit that many customers leave them on the plate. Since the pickles are made in house, it pains Joffe and Remsen to see so many get tossed, especially since, to my pickle palate, they're delicious. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_52053\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/bagel-lox1000a.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/bagel-lox1000a.jpg\" alt=\"Sesame bagel with Scottish-salmon lox, cream cheese, onions, capers and housemade pickles\" title=\"Sesame bagel with Scottish-salmon lox, cream cheese, onions, capers and housemade pickles\" width=\"560\" height=\"815\" class=\"size-full wp-image-52053\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sesame bagel with Scottish-salmon lox, cream cheese, onions, capers and housemade pickles\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Joffe, a former line cook from Delfina, has the weary eyes of a man whose kitchen workday starts at 4am and doesn't end until some 12 hours later. While Joffe and Remsen aren't paying themselves yet, the business is breaking even now, and supporting 10 employees. \"That's one of the things I'm most proud of,\" says Remsen, of the jobs her business has created in the neighborhood. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When they first started baking, they got sage advice from Wise Sons' Evan Bloom, himself a self-taught baker of rye and challah. It's bread, and it will break your heart, he told them: different every day, subject to deep, unpredictable whims, subtle shifts in temperature, moisture, even weather changing a perfect batch into a temper tantrum of intractable dough. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Getting the bagels consistent, learning to work with the new, larger-scale equipment needed to keep up with the shop's demand: it's been a steep learning curve, but now, says Joffe, the bagels are almost where he wants them to be, most days. They've added bialys, not very many yet, so they sell out fast whenever they appear. There are plans for an expanded breakfast and lunch menu, not just bagels. Joffe imagines a salad of green apples, Brie, and onions charred in schmaltz, topped with roasted chicken skin. Already, a fried chicken-and-slaw sandwich, a bagel version of the popular lunchtime offering up the street at \u003ca href=\"http://www.bakesalebetty.com/\">Bakesale Betty\u003c/a>'s, is a hit, as is the matzoh-ball soup. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Leaving Beauty's, drop south towards the waterfront, and if it's Friday, Saturday, or Sunday, you can swing by the bare-bones retail space for \u003ca href=\"http://abagelcompany.com/\">Authentic Bagel Company\u003c/a> in Jack London Square, run by the Providence, Rhode Island-born brothers Jason and Mark Scott. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/authentic-bagel-exterior1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/authentic-bagel-exterior1000.jpg\" alt=\"Authentic Bagel exterior\" title=\"Authentic Bagel exterior\" width=\"277\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-52100\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/authentic-bagel-interior1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/authentic-bagel-interior1000.jpg\" alt=\"Authentic Bagel interior\" title=\"Authentic Bagel interior\" width=\"277\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-52101\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_52025\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/authentic-owners700.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/authentic-owners700.jpg\" alt=\"Authentic Bagel owners - Jason and Mark Scott\" title=\"Authentic Bagel owners - Jason and Mark Scott\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-52025\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Authentic Bagel owners - Jason and Mark Scott\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>With bare, scuffed walls, a chest-high stack of flour bags in the window and a clutter of mixers and ovens in the back, it's easy to see that the room is mostly the brothers' production kitchen, hastily made over into a retail space three days a week. As a two-man operation with a heap of wholesale accounts, ABC bakes all its bagels in one early-morning shift. By 4am, bagels are coming out of the oven, ready to be delivered to 15 or 20 cafes and businesses around the East Bay. Three days a week, the rest go onto the trays at the retail shop. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/authentic-bagels-owner1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/authentic-bagels-owner1000.jpg\" alt=\"Jason Scott co-owner of Authentic Bagel\" title=\"Jason Scott co-owner of Authentic Bagel\" width=\"277\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-52037\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/mark-scott-authentic-bagels1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/mark-scott-authentic-bagels1000.jpg\" alt=\"Mark Scott co-owner of Authentic Bagel\" title=\"Mark Scott co-owner of Authentic Bagel\" width=\"277\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-52106\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, no hot bagels here. But the bagels are made to be a little more durable, using a slow-risen sourdough base that's held for 24 hours to develop flavor and texture, then boiled and baked. Bigger and a little chewier than Beauty's, they have a craggy, handmade look to them, no small feat when the bakery's turning out anywhere from 300 to 1000 bagels a day. \"We wanted to marry a New York bagel with a San Francisco sourdough,\" says Mark, who, like his brother, has a culinary degree from \u003ca href=\"http://www.jwu.edu\">Johnson and Wales.\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_52027\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/Authentic1000b.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/Authentic1000b.jpg\" alt=\"Authentic Bagels\" title=\"Authentic Bagels\" width=\"560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-52027\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Authentic Bagels\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>From Italian restaurants in Providence, they moved to managing and cooking in restaurants in Berkeley and Portland, then to Monaghan's on the Hill in the Oakland Hills. For a Mother's Day brunch menu one year, they decided to offer housemade bagel sandwiches, which were a hit. For the Sunday-afternoon football crowd, more bagel sandwiches, until customers started asking where they got their bagels, and could they buy a dozen to take home? They starting using the Monaghan's kitchen to bake during their off hours, then, last November, they left the restaurant and started their own bagel business, first baking in a commercial kitchen in Emeryville, now in what was once a hot-dog shop in Jack London Square. Their plans? More retail hours, more cafe clients, maybe an employee or two. But mostly, just keep making the bagels.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.beautysbagelshop.com\">Beauty's Bagel Shop\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Address:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://goo.gl/maps/Zb4kt\">Map\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n3838 Telegraph Ave.\u003cbr>\nOakland, CA 94609\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Phone: \u003c/strong> (510) 788-6098\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Facebook:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://www.facebook.com/beautysbagelshop\">Beauty's Bagel Shop\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Twitter:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/beautysbagel\">@beautysbagel\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.abagelcompany.com\">Authentic Bagel Company\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Address:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://goo.gl/maps/2p7wI\">Map\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n463 2nd St\u003cbr>\nOakland, CA 94607\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Phone:\u003c/strong> (510) 459-1201\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Facebook:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://www.facebook.com/abagelco\">Authentic Bagel Company\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Twitter: \u003c/strong>\u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/BagelCo\"> @bagelco\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Humble and homey, bagels are having their moment in Oakland. Beauty's Bagel Shop and Authentic Bagel Company offer two new spots for Oaklanders to get their schmear on. ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/Authentic1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/Authentic1000.jpg\" alt=\"Authentic Bagels\" title=\"Authentic Bagels\" width=\"277\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-52022\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/beautys-bagels-group1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/beautys-bagels-group1000.jpg\" alt=\"Beauty's Bagels\" title=\"Beauty's Bagels\" width=\"277\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>All Photos:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/wendy-goodfriend/\">\u003cstrong>Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Food trends go in waves, even right in your neighborhood. Upscale frozen desserts, creative doughnuts, thin-crust pizza, retro cocktails with three kinds of artisanal bitters in them: they aren't there, and then, suddenly, five places selling them spring up within a handful of blocks. \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/donutsavant\">Donut Savant\u003c/a> begets \u003ca href=\"http://www.facebook.com/DoughnutDolly\">Doughnut Dolly\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.facebook.com/icicream\">Ici's\u003c/a> banana-curry ice cream is followed by \u003ca href=\"http://www.facebook.com/screamsorbet\">Scream's\u003c/a> coconut-Thai basil sorbet. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_52042\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/beautys1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/beautys1000.jpg\" alt=\"Beauty's Bagels interior\" title=\"Beauty's Bagels interior\" width=\"560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-52042\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Beauty's Bagels interior\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/beautys-bagels-sign1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/beautys-bagels-sign1000.jpg\" alt=\"Beauty's Bagels exterior with sign\" title=\"Beauty's Bagels exterior with sign\" width=\"277\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-52058\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/tomatoes-over-beautys1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/tomatoes-over-beautys1000.jpg\" alt=\"Beauty's Bagels front counter\" title=\"Beauty's Bagels front counter\" width=\"277\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-52066\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/baking-bagels-beautys1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/baking-bagels-beautys1000.jpg\" alt=\"Blake Joffe making bagels at Beauty's Bagels\" title=\"Blake Joffe making bagels at Beauty's Bagels\" width=\"277\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-52056\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/beautys-bagel-toss1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/beautys-bagel-toss1000.jpg\" alt=\"Blake Joffe about to toss bagels at Beauty's Bagels\" title=\"Blake Joffe about to toss bagels at Beauty's Bagels\" width=\"277\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-52059\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Right now bagels, humble and homey as they are, are having their moment. After months of weekend-only deliveries to \u003ca href=\"http://www.wisesonsdeli.com\">Wise Sons Deli\u003c/a>, and much anticipation in the press, \u003ca href=\"http://www.facebook.com/beautysbagelshop\">Beauty's Bagel Shop\u003c/a> opened on the southern stretch of Telegraph at 38th, not far from Homeroom, mecca of mac-and-cheese. This isn't the vegan-cheese, $20-pizza, $12-quesadillas part of Telegraph; it's the part where beauty-supply shops alternate with nail salons and Chinese take-out joints, and billboards overhead tout credit repair and help getting your GED. But the Mission-East Temescal contingent have found their way inside, with all the tattoos and t-shirt irony that implies. (On one counter worker: a t-shirt emblazoned \"Heaven knows I'm miserable now.\" Yes, I get the Smiths' reference, and anyone who's worked a counter can sympathize, but is that really the best choice of attire for service with a smile?)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/beautys-blake-joffe700.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/beautys-blake-joffe700.jpg\" alt=\"Blake Joffe bagelmaker and co-owner of Beauty's Bagels\" title=\"Blake Joffe bagelmaker and co-owner of Beauty's Bagels\" width=\"277\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-52060\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/bagels-oven700.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/bagels-oven700.jpg\" alt=\"Blake Joffe slides bagels into the wood-fire oven\" title=\"Blake Joffe slides bagels into the wood-fire oven\" width=\"277\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-52095\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/rolling-bagels-beautys700.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/rolling-bagels-beautys700.jpg\" alt=\"Rolling and weighing out bagels at Beauty's Bagels\" title=\"Rolling and weighing out bagels at Beauty's Bagels\" width=\"277\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-52064\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/beauty-bagels700.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/beauty-bagels700.jpg\" alt=\"Beauty's Bagels\" title=\"Beauty's Bagels\" width=\"277\" class=\"size-full wp-image-52041\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bagels come out in waves, baked in a wood-fired oven and expertly, showily flipped by Beauty owner-baker Blake Joffe into a long, seed-scattered chute before filling the bins behind the cash register, still oven-hot. (The flip is really just for show, the bagel-baker's version of the Pike Place Market salmon toss.\"Kids love it,\" he deadpans.) Any bagel is delicious fresh out of the oven, and these don't disappoint. They're nicely sized, not puffed-up behemoths. The crust is a slim, shiny coating instead of a sink-your-teeth-in-and-pull that I remember as a highlight of the bagels of my New York/New York childhood, but the crumb has just the right balance of density and loft. And the whole-wheat bagels, both sesame and \"everything\" (fennel, caraway, poppy, and sesame seeds, plus salt, pepper, and onion), manage to taste both healthy and bagel-y, with a full whole-grain taste that nonetheless still pushes the right bagel button, even if the green, licorice-y flavor of fennel isn't exactly part of the typical salty-savory everything-bagel experience. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_52063\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/beautys-owners1000a1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/beautys-owners1000a1.jpg\" alt=\"Owners of Beauty's Bagels - Blake Joffe and Amy Remsen\" title=\"Owners of Beauty's Bagels - Blake Joffe and Amy Remsen\" width=\"560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-52063\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Owners of Beauty's Bagels - Blake Joffe and Amy Remsen\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"It's a hybrid bagel,\" says Joffe.\"Not exactly Montreal, not exactly New York.\" Having moved to Oakland from Philadelphia, Joffe and his co-owner and partner Amy Remsen also plan to offer some tastes of Pennsylvania on their menu, like scrapple and sticky buns. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now that local tomatoes are out of season, they're off the menu, which is a sad loss for the otherwise tasty lox sandwich, thick slices of Scottish-salmon lox from \u003ca href=\"http://water2table.com/\">Water 2 Table\u003c/a>, swathed over pleasantly tangy Sierra Nevada cream cheese (no relation to the beer), with red onions and plenty of capers. The two tiny half-moon pickle slices alongside seem stingy until I ask Remsen and Joffe, who admit that many customers leave them on the plate. Since the pickles are made in house, it pains Joffe and Remsen to see so many get tossed, especially since, to my pickle palate, they're delicious. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_52053\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/bagel-lox1000a.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/bagel-lox1000a.jpg\" alt=\"Sesame bagel with Scottish-salmon lox, cream cheese, onions, capers and housemade pickles\" title=\"Sesame bagel with Scottish-salmon lox, cream cheese, onions, capers and housemade pickles\" width=\"560\" height=\"815\" class=\"size-full wp-image-52053\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sesame bagel with Scottish-salmon lox, cream cheese, onions, capers and housemade pickles\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Joffe, a former line cook from Delfina, has the weary eyes of a man whose kitchen workday starts at 4am and doesn't end until some 12 hours later. While Joffe and Remsen aren't paying themselves yet, the business is breaking even now, and supporting 10 employees. \"That's one of the things I'm most proud of,\" says Remsen, of the jobs her business has created in the neighborhood. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When they first started baking, they got sage advice from Wise Sons' Evan Bloom, himself a self-taught baker of rye and challah. It's bread, and it will break your heart, he told them: different every day, subject to deep, unpredictable whims, subtle shifts in temperature, moisture, even weather changing a perfect batch into a temper tantrum of intractable dough. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Getting the bagels consistent, learning to work with the new, larger-scale equipment needed to keep up with the shop's demand: it's been a steep learning curve, but now, says Joffe, the bagels are almost where he wants them to be, most days. They've added bialys, not very many yet, so they sell out fast whenever they appear. There are plans for an expanded breakfast and lunch menu, not just bagels. Joffe imagines a salad of green apples, Brie, and onions charred in schmaltz, topped with roasted chicken skin. Already, a fried chicken-and-slaw sandwich, a bagel version of the popular lunchtime offering up the street at \u003ca href=\"http://www.bakesalebetty.com/\">Bakesale Betty\u003c/a>'s, is a hit, as is the matzoh-ball soup. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Leaving Beauty's, drop south towards the waterfront, and if it's Friday, Saturday, or Sunday, you can swing by the bare-bones retail space for \u003ca href=\"http://abagelcompany.com/\">Authentic Bagel Company\u003c/a> in Jack London Square, run by the Providence, Rhode Island-born brothers Jason and Mark Scott. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/authentic-bagel-exterior1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/authentic-bagel-exterior1000.jpg\" alt=\"Authentic Bagel exterior\" title=\"Authentic Bagel exterior\" width=\"277\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-52100\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/authentic-bagel-interior1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/authentic-bagel-interior1000.jpg\" alt=\"Authentic Bagel interior\" title=\"Authentic Bagel interior\" width=\"277\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-52101\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_52025\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/authentic-owners700.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/authentic-owners700.jpg\" alt=\"Authentic Bagel owners - Jason and Mark Scott\" title=\"Authentic Bagel owners - Jason and Mark Scott\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-52025\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Authentic Bagel owners - Jason and Mark Scott\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>With bare, scuffed walls, a chest-high stack of flour bags in the window and a clutter of mixers and ovens in the back, it's easy to see that the room is mostly the brothers' production kitchen, hastily made over into a retail space three days a week. As a two-man operation with a heap of wholesale accounts, ABC bakes all its bagels in one early-morning shift. By 4am, bagels are coming out of the oven, ready to be delivered to 15 or 20 cafes and businesses around the East Bay. Three days a week, the rest go onto the trays at the retail shop. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/authentic-bagels-owner1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/authentic-bagels-owner1000.jpg\" alt=\"Jason Scott co-owner of Authentic Bagel\" title=\"Jason Scott co-owner of Authentic Bagel\" width=\"277\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-52037\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/mark-scott-authentic-bagels1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/mark-scott-authentic-bagels1000.jpg\" alt=\"Mark Scott co-owner of Authentic Bagel\" title=\"Mark Scott co-owner of Authentic Bagel\" width=\"277\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-52106\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, no hot bagels here. But the bagels are made to be a little more durable, using a slow-risen sourdough base that's held for 24 hours to develop flavor and texture, then boiled and baked. Bigger and a little chewier than Beauty's, they have a craggy, handmade look to them, no small feat when the bakery's turning out anywhere from 300 to 1000 bagels a day. \"We wanted to marry a New York bagel with a San Francisco sourdough,\" says Mark, who, like his brother, has a culinary degree from \u003ca href=\"http://www.jwu.edu\">Johnson and Wales.\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_52027\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/Authentic1000b.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/Authentic1000b.jpg\" alt=\"Authentic Bagels\" title=\"Authentic Bagels\" width=\"560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-52027\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Authentic Bagels\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>From Italian restaurants in Providence, they moved to managing and cooking in restaurants in Berkeley and Portland, then to Monaghan's on the Hill in the Oakland Hills. For a Mother's Day brunch menu one year, they decided to offer housemade bagel sandwiches, which were a hit. For the Sunday-afternoon football crowd, more bagel sandwiches, until customers started asking where they got their bagels, and could they buy a dozen to take home? They starting using the Monaghan's kitchen to bake during their off hours, then, last November, they left the restaurant and started their own bagel business, first baking in a commercial kitchen in Emeryville, now in what was once a hot-dog shop in Jack London Square. Their plans? More retail hours, more cafe clients, maybe an employee or two. But mostly, just keep making the bagels.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.beautysbagelshop.com\">Beauty's Bagel Shop\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Address:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://goo.gl/maps/Zb4kt\">Map\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n3838 Telegraph Ave.\u003cbr>\nOakland, CA 94609\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Phone: \u003c/strong> (510) 788-6098\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Facebook:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://www.facebook.com/beautysbagelshop\">Beauty's Bagel Shop\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Twitter:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/beautysbagel\">@beautysbagel\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.abagelcompany.com\">Authentic Bagel Company\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Address:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://goo.gl/maps/2p7wI\">Map\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n463 2nd St\u003cbr>\nOakland, CA 94607\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Phone:\u003c/strong> (510) 459-1201\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Facebook:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://www.facebook.com/abagelco\">Authentic Bagel Company\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Twitter: \u003c/strong>\u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/BagelCo\"> @bagelco\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Let the Cracking Begin! Dungeness Crab Season is Underway",
"title": "Let the Cracking Begin! Dungeness Crab Season is Underway",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cem>Crab season has started in San Francisco. Crab fisherman are shown on the dock at \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/pages/Fishermans-Wharf-Merchants-Association-SF/114665905239742?v=wall\">Fisherman's Wharf\u003c/a> bringing in their catch of massive amounts of crab. Vendors near the wharf serve and prepare crab. Video: Jonathan Morris, Video Editing: Peter Borg.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Last year something was missing from Thanksgiving festivities in the Bay Area--Dungeness crab. Crabbers were on strike, holding out for $2.50 a pound from buyers. Finally, they settled at $2.25 a pound, but the well-loved crustaceans did not arrive in time for Thanksgiving. Fortunately, that was not the case this year. A price was agreed upon, $3.00 a pound and crabbers hit the high seas; these tasty creatures are now showing up in grocery stores at prices that range from $5.99-$8.99 a pound and in restaurants with a wide range of dishes and price points. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_51739\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/crab800.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/crab800.jpg\" alt=\"This season, fishmongers are reporting that most Dungeness crabs average 1.5-2.3 pounds each. Photo Credit Martin Reed\" title=\"This season, fishmongers are reporting that most Dungeness crabs average 1.5-2.3 pounds each. Photo Credit Martin Reed\" width=\"560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-51739\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">This season, fishmongers are reporting that most Dungeness crabs average 1.5-2.3 pounds each. Photo Credit Martin Reed\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Rocky Burns used to skipper the fishing vessel AL-W for the Dungeness season and now works at the online sustainable seafood company \u003ca href=\"https://www.ilovebluesea.com\">i love blue sea\u003c/a>. He explained that the Dungeness crab fishery is sustainable due to three main components, or the 3 S’s as he calls them: Sex, Size, Season. “We throw back all females, and any males under 6 1/4 inches wide so they can reproduce,” he said. “As well, Dungeness shed their shells, or molt, at different times of the year, and which makes them delicate and susceptible to injury, so we don’t fish them during molting season.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_51737\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/Al-W-800.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/Al-W-800.jpg\" alt=\"The AL-W returns to Pier 45 to offload Dungeness crab. Photo Credit: Martin Reed.\" title=\"The AL-W returns to Pier 45 to offload Dungeness crab. Photo Credit: Martin Reed.\" width=\"560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-51737\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The AL-W returns to Pier 45 to offload Dungeness crab. Photo Credit: Martin Reed.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Rocky explained that another element that makes them sustainable is they are caught with baited traps. These are designed to let smaller crabs and bycatch escape unharmed. Bycatch are other creatures that make their way into the traps that are not the intended catch. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So you can feel good about that Crab Louie that you are enjoying; fishermen are getting a fair price and while they are expecting a light season catch-wise, the crabs are coming in large and healthy right now. Yet there is danger lurking on the horizon for these delicious creatures. While the crabs are caught between 3-40 miles offshore, they spend a great deal of their lives in estuaries. Juvenile Dungeness crabs lose their shells as they grow, this process of molting helps them to grow new, larger shells. During these periods, they head into the San Francisco Bay for protection. They hide out in the eel grass and eat fish, mollusks, and other crustaceans before heading out to the deep waters. At times they even seek protection in clamshells. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So the threat to them does not necessarily lie in the fishing of them, but rather the health of our estuaries, which means restoring habitat along the shore and keeping the bay clean. According to the non-profit \u003ca href=\"https://www.savesfbay.org/\">Save the Bay\u003c/a> we can help the health of the bay through every day activities like not using plastic bags, (they claim to be first at getting a plastic bag ban passed), and make sure your garbage--cigarette butts and Styrofoam containers don’t blow into storm drains. In addition, what you put on your lawn and garden impacts the bay. Natural filters such as wetlands and marshes have been paved over in most cities. As a result, pollution--such as pesticides from lawns and gas leaks on roads gets washed straight into the bay. A great source for learning more about how to reduce ocean pollution by making your lawn and garden runoff less toxic can be found at \u003ca href=\"http://www.surfrider.org/programs/entry/ocean-friendly-gardens\">Surfrider Foundation’s Guide to Ocean Friendly Gardening\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another fear is increasing ocean acidification due to carbon emissions. Dr. Tessa Hill of UC Davis stated in an email, “Ocean acidification threatens the success of many organisms with shells, such as mussels, clams and oysters. Those animals provide habitat for many other organisms, so there will be a cascade of impacts through estuaries and the ocean. Estuaries are susceptible to both ocean acidification and climate change, which means they may experience changes in temperature, pH, and salinity in the future.” So this means that reducing our carbon emissions are critical when it comes to preserving Dungeness crabs. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So let’s protect our estuaries and in the meantime, enjoy the season’s bounty. Here are some places to find Dungeness: \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>SAN FRANCISCO\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Retail:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://www.wholefoodsmarket.com/stores/franklin\">Whole Foods Market/ Franklin & California Streets\u003c/a> are selling Dungeness crab for $7.99, and they crack and clean them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Restaurant:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://www.prospectsf.com\">Prospect Restaurant\u003c/a> is serving calamari stuffed with fresh Dungeness crab with ginger and shitake mushroom with spicy roasted kabocha squash, shishito pepper and mandarin relish. $15.00\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.7x7.com/eat-drink/its-crab-season-heres-where-get-your-dungeness#/0\">List of Crab-Friendly San Francisco restaurants from 7x7\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>EAST BAY\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Retail:\u003c/strong> At \u003ca href=\"http://rockridgemarkethall.com\">Rockridge Market Hall\u003c/a> fishmongers at Hapuku Fish Shop Dungeness crab. Buy them live or cooked, cracked or cleaned. $8.99 a pound.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Restaurant:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://www.comalberkeley.com\">Comal Berkeley\u003c/a> is making Chilpachole de Jaiba, a spicy Dungeness crab soup with lentils. It’s part of a five-course meal at $45.00 per person. (The Chilpachole de Jaiba is a $3.00 add on.) \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>NORTH BAY\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Retail:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://twoxsea.com\">TwoXSea\u003c/a> is the seafood retail store located inside Fish Restaurant in Sausalito. They are selling Dungeness for $6.99 cooked, $7.99 cracked and cleaned. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Restaurant:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://www.restaurantpicco.com/\">Picco Restaurant\u003c/a> in Larkspur is making filet mignon with Dungeness crab, crispy potatoes and a crab butter sauce made with crab roe. $56.95. As well, they are serving hand rolled tagliatelle pasta with crab, scallions, chilies tossed in a sauce made of crab shells. $23.95 \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>SOUTH BAY\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Retail:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://www.99ranch.com\">99 Ranch Market\u003c/a> in Mountain View is selling live Dungeness for $5.99 a pound. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Restaurant:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/hong-kong-restaurant-palo-alto\">Hong Kong Restaurant\u003c/a> in Palo Alto (650) 251-9062 is serving Salt & Pepper crab for $24.00. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>PENINSULA\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Retail:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://princetonseafood.com/\">Princeton Seafood Company\u003c/a> near Half Moon Bay is buying them right there at the harbor and selling them for $5.99 live and $6.50 cooked and cleaned. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Restaurant:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://www.hmbbrewingco.com/\">Half Moon Bay Brewing Company\u003c/a> is serving whole Dungeness crabs with drawn butter and garlic bread ($24.00) as well as a Dungeness Crab Roll with spicy remoulade sauce and a choice of fries or cole slaw ($18.50) And for another winter tradition, you can watch Mavericks Surf Contest from their dining room or patio. \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Last year something was missing from Thanksgiving festivities in the Bay Area--Dungeness crab. Crabbers were on strike but fortunately, that was not the case this year. Here are some places to find Dungeness in the Bay Area.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cem>Crab season has started in San Francisco. Crab fisherman are shown on the dock at \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/pages/Fishermans-Wharf-Merchants-Association-SF/114665905239742?v=wall\">Fisherman's Wharf\u003c/a> bringing in their catch of massive amounts of crab. Vendors near the wharf serve and prepare crab. Video: Jonathan Morris, Video Editing: Peter Borg.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Last year something was missing from Thanksgiving festivities in the Bay Area--Dungeness crab. Crabbers were on strike, holding out for $2.50 a pound from buyers. Finally, they settled at $2.25 a pound, but the well-loved crustaceans did not arrive in time for Thanksgiving. Fortunately, that was not the case this year. A price was agreed upon, $3.00 a pound and crabbers hit the high seas; these tasty creatures are now showing up in grocery stores at prices that range from $5.99-$8.99 a pound and in restaurants with a wide range of dishes and price points. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_51739\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/crab800.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/crab800.jpg\" alt=\"This season, fishmongers are reporting that most Dungeness crabs average 1.5-2.3 pounds each. Photo Credit Martin Reed\" title=\"This season, fishmongers are reporting that most Dungeness crabs average 1.5-2.3 pounds each. Photo Credit Martin Reed\" width=\"560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-51739\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">This season, fishmongers are reporting that most Dungeness crabs average 1.5-2.3 pounds each. Photo Credit Martin Reed\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Rocky Burns used to skipper the fishing vessel AL-W for the Dungeness season and now works at the online sustainable seafood company \u003ca href=\"https://www.ilovebluesea.com\">i love blue sea\u003c/a>. He explained that the Dungeness crab fishery is sustainable due to three main components, or the 3 S’s as he calls them: Sex, Size, Season. “We throw back all females, and any males under 6 1/4 inches wide so they can reproduce,” he said. “As well, Dungeness shed their shells, or molt, at different times of the year, and which makes them delicate and susceptible to injury, so we don’t fish them during molting season.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_51737\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/Al-W-800.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/Al-W-800.jpg\" alt=\"The AL-W returns to Pier 45 to offload Dungeness crab. Photo Credit: Martin Reed.\" title=\"The AL-W returns to Pier 45 to offload Dungeness crab. Photo Credit: Martin Reed.\" width=\"560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-51737\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The AL-W returns to Pier 45 to offload Dungeness crab. Photo Credit: Martin Reed.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Rocky explained that another element that makes them sustainable is they are caught with baited traps. These are designed to let smaller crabs and bycatch escape unharmed. Bycatch are other creatures that make their way into the traps that are not the intended catch. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So you can feel good about that Crab Louie that you are enjoying; fishermen are getting a fair price and while they are expecting a light season catch-wise, the crabs are coming in large and healthy right now. Yet there is danger lurking on the horizon for these delicious creatures. While the crabs are caught between 3-40 miles offshore, they spend a great deal of their lives in estuaries. Juvenile Dungeness crabs lose their shells as they grow, this process of molting helps them to grow new, larger shells. During these periods, they head into the San Francisco Bay for protection. They hide out in the eel grass and eat fish, mollusks, and other crustaceans before heading out to the deep waters. At times they even seek protection in clamshells. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So the threat to them does not necessarily lie in the fishing of them, but rather the health of our estuaries, which means restoring habitat along the shore and keeping the bay clean. According to the non-profit \u003ca href=\"https://www.savesfbay.org/\">Save the Bay\u003c/a> we can help the health of the bay through every day activities like not using plastic bags, (they claim to be first at getting a plastic bag ban passed), and make sure your garbage--cigarette butts and Styrofoam containers don’t blow into storm drains. In addition, what you put on your lawn and garden impacts the bay. Natural filters such as wetlands and marshes have been paved over in most cities. As a result, pollution--such as pesticides from lawns and gas leaks on roads gets washed straight into the bay. A great source for learning more about how to reduce ocean pollution by making your lawn and garden runoff less toxic can be found at \u003ca href=\"http://www.surfrider.org/programs/entry/ocean-friendly-gardens\">Surfrider Foundation’s Guide to Ocean Friendly Gardening\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another fear is increasing ocean acidification due to carbon emissions. Dr. Tessa Hill of UC Davis stated in an email, “Ocean acidification threatens the success of many organisms with shells, such as mussels, clams and oysters. Those animals provide habitat for many other organisms, so there will be a cascade of impacts through estuaries and the ocean. Estuaries are susceptible to both ocean acidification and climate change, which means they may experience changes in temperature, pH, and salinity in the future.” So this means that reducing our carbon emissions are critical when it comes to preserving Dungeness crabs. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So let’s protect our estuaries and in the meantime, enjoy the season’s bounty. Here are some places to find Dungeness: \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>SAN FRANCISCO\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Retail:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://www.wholefoodsmarket.com/stores/franklin\">Whole Foods Market/ Franklin & California Streets\u003c/a> are selling Dungeness crab for $7.99, and they crack and clean them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Restaurant:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://www.prospectsf.com\">Prospect Restaurant\u003c/a> is serving calamari stuffed with fresh Dungeness crab with ginger and shitake mushroom with spicy roasted kabocha squash, shishito pepper and mandarin relish. $15.00\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.7x7.com/eat-drink/its-crab-season-heres-where-get-your-dungeness#/0\">List of Crab-Friendly San Francisco restaurants from 7x7\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>EAST BAY\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Retail:\u003c/strong> At \u003ca href=\"http://rockridgemarkethall.com\">Rockridge Market Hall\u003c/a> fishmongers at Hapuku Fish Shop Dungeness crab. Buy them live or cooked, cracked or cleaned. $8.99 a pound.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Restaurant:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://www.comalberkeley.com\">Comal Berkeley\u003c/a> is making Chilpachole de Jaiba, a spicy Dungeness crab soup with lentils. It’s part of a five-course meal at $45.00 per person. (The Chilpachole de Jaiba is a $3.00 add on.) \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>NORTH BAY\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Retail:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://twoxsea.com\">TwoXSea\u003c/a> is the seafood retail store located inside Fish Restaurant in Sausalito. They are selling Dungeness for $6.99 cooked, $7.99 cracked and cleaned. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Restaurant:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://www.restaurantpicco.com/\">Picco Restaurant\u003c/a> in Larkspur is making filet mignon with Dungeness crab, crispy potatoes and a crab butter sauce made with crab roe. $56.95. As well, they are serving hand rolled tagliatelle pasta with crab, scallions, chilies tossed in a sauce made of crab shells. $23.95 \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>SOUTH BAY\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Retail:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://www.99ranch.com\">99 Ranch Market\u003c/a> in Mountain View is selling live Dungeness for $5.99 a pound. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Restaurant:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/hong-kong-restaurant-palo-alto\">Hong Kong Restaurant\u003c/a> in Palo Alto (650) 251-9062 is serving Salt & Pepper crab for $24.00. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>PENINSULA\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Retail:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://princetonseafood.com/\">Princeton Seafood Company\u003c/a> near Half Moon Bay is buying them right there at the harbor and selling them for $5.99 live and $6.50 cooked and cleaned. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Restaurant:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://www.hmbbrewingco.com/\">Half Moon Bay Brewing Company\u003c/a> is serving whole Dungeness crabs with drawn butter and garlic bread ($24.00) as well as a Dungeness Crab Roll with spicy remoulade sauce and a choice of fries or cole slaw ($18.50) And for another winter tradition, you can watch Mavericks Surf Contest from their dining room or patio. \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Local Hard Cider for Thanksgiving: Tilted Shed Ciderworks",
"title": "Local Hard Cider for Thanksgiving: Tilted Shed Ciderworks",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_51773\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/variety-apples640.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/variety-apples640.jpg\" alt=\"A mix of local apples goes in the cider. Photo: Ellen Cavalli\" title=\"A mix of local apples goes in the cider. Photo: Ellen Cavalli\" width=\"560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-51773\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A mix of local apples goes in the cider. Photo: Ellen Cavalli\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>What are you drinking for Thanksgiving? Local cooking teacher Mary Risley \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=foA0MGUbYH0\">may swear by Pinot Noir\u003c/a>, other wine writers by \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2012/11/21/dining/thanksgiving-wines-for-when-you-didnt-plan-ahead.html\">Ravenswood Zin or Oregon whites\u003c/a>, but this year, my guests will be toasting with dry, autumn-golden hard cider made by the husband and wife team of Scott Heath and Ellen Cavalli of Sebastopol's \u003ca href=\"http://www.tiltedshed.com\">Tilted Shed Ciderworks\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_51772\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/tilted-family800.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/tilted-family800.jpg\" alt=\"Scott Heath, Ellen Cavalli, and Ben. Photo: Miya Endo\" title=\"Scott Heath, Ellen Cavalli, and Ben. Photo: Miya Endo\" width=\"560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-51772\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Scott Heath, Ellen Cavalli, and Ben. Photo: Miya Endo\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Why cider, right now? Appropriately for a harvest festival, it's local, made from a wide variety of apples grown and gleaned around Sebastopol, an area that put Sonoma on the map as an apple-growing region before gaining fame for its grapes. In celebrating this uniquely American holiday, it always seems particularly appropriate to go all-American from plate to glass. Save the French champagne (or French ciders) for New Year's; for Thanksgiving, let's toast with what America has to offer. Already planned your sit-down dinner's wines? Well, nothing goes better with the weekend's turkey-and-cranberry sandwiches than a tangy quaff of lightly chilled cider. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And cider, particularly hard cider, has a long but mostly forgotten history as a favorite American beverage, especially during the Colonial era. Settling in the Northeast, where apples, both wild and planted, grew readily, British-born colonists--especially those from the southwest of England, \u003ca href=\"http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/2012/feb/24/short-guide-to-british-cider\">renowned for its ciders\u003c/a>--lost no time in pressing and fermenting the juice of the fruit they found, especially since the often bitter and tannic wild apples made the best hard cider. Generally fairly low in alcohol, cider was an everyday drink, made at home and served at taverns.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It wasn't until large-scale grain farming took over the Midwest, along with a influx of beer-drinking German immigrant farmers--that beer nudged out cider as the American drink of choice. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But lately, cider's been \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2012/11/08/164599735/americans-rediscover-the-kick-of-hard-cider\">having a revival\u003c/a> in the Bay Area. There's San Francisco's recently opened \u003ca href=\"http://www.upcidersf.com/\">Upcider\u003c/a>, a cider-focused gastropub in Polk Gulch. At organic heirloom apple farm \u003ca href=\"http://www.devotogardens.com/\">Devoto Gardens\u003c/a>, family member Jolie Devoto just launched Apple Sauced, a hard cider pressed from their own Gravenstein apples. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And Tilted Shed, which started bottling professionally in 2011, now has three varieties in its product line: Lost Orchard Dry Cider, January Barbecue Smoked Cider, and Graviva! Semidry Cider, made from Gravensteins. This past harvest season, they pressed over 1000 gallons of cider, a three-fold increase over the previous year. In early 2013, they'll be releasing 2012's January Barbecue Smoked Cider; the remaining three varieties, including a new, as-yet-unnamed blend, will be released throughout the year. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_51770\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/IMG_4758.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/IMG_4758.jpg\" alt=\"Carboys of cider during the fermentation process. Photo: Ellen Cavalli\" title=\"Carboys of cider during the fermentation process. Photo: Ellen Cavalli\" width=\"560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-51770\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Carboys of cider during the fermentation process. Photo: Ellen Cavalli\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>So, how did Heath and Cavalli end up as artisanal cider makers, tracking down the fruit of abandoned orchards like treasure hunters diving around a sunken Spanish galleon? Blame it on the pickles, the homesteaders' gateway ferment. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Born in Northern California, Heath and Cavalli started homesteading in rural New Mexico, doing some small market farming, always on the lookout for new projects. \"We liked making our own food,\" noted Cavalli, and after pickling and making sauerkraut, making a small batch of hard cider from a mixed batch of local apples seemed like a fun next step. Much to their surprise, their first, casual effort was good. Much better than they expected, in fact, and they quickly \"became obsessed\" with cider-making. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When they thought about moving back to California, they knew it would have to be somewhere with apple-growing potential, which led them to a several-acre property near Forestville, good land but affordable because the rundown house was barely habitable. Undaunted, they moved in and starting the renovation themselves. The house is comfortable now, surrounded by both spreading oaks and wandering chickens, with a vegetable garden and spindly rows of newly grafted and planted apple trees, the hopes of the future Tilted Shed cider orchard. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One afternoon last month, Scott and Ellen took a moment between apple pick-ups to share some of last year's batch of cider, serving it with cheese made by their friends Joel and Carleen Weirauch, nearby Petaluma ranchers and cheesemakers who trade their \u003ca href=\"http://www.weirauchfarm.com/Weirauch_Farm_%26_Creamery/CHEESE.html\">cheese\u003c/a> for culled apples and pomace to feed to their pasture-raised sheep. On the table are apples of all sizes and shapes, every taste from pleasantly sweet-tart to mouth-puckeringly bitter. There was Porter's Perfection and Kingston Black, bittersweet English cider apples popular in Victorian times; Kidd's Orange Red, an early-20th century New Zealand-bred cross between Cox's Orange Pippin, a classic English dessert apple, and the original American Delicious, first bred in 1870; and Nehou, an early-20th century French cider apple.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_51759\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/IMG_4184.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/IMG_4184.jpg\" alt=\"Boxes of Sebastopol apples. Photo: Ellen Cavalli\" title=\"Boxes of Sebastopol apples. Photo: Ellen Cavalli\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-51759\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Boxes of Sebastopol apples. Photo: Ellen Cavalli\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The trickiest part of cider-making, says Heath, was sourcing the fruit. It will take several years, at least, before their own trees start bearing enough fruit to supply all their cider-making needs. The challenge, until then, is that the best cider apples--typically bitter, dense-fleshed, and astringently tannic, with many heirloom varieties dating back to the 17th and 18th centuries--have all but disappeared from commercial orchards and nurseries, replaced by sweeter, juicier varieties bred for out-of-hand eating. Pleasant cider can, of course, be made from sweet apples, but, just as wine needs tannic grapes to give it structure, so Heath tries to use a mixture of bitter, bittersweet, sharp, and sweet apples to give his slow-aged cider the desired complexity and depth. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's a treasure hunt,\" said Heath. \"We talk to everyone,\" starting with local nursery \u003ca href=\"http://www.treesofantiquity.com\">Trees of Antiquity\u003c/a>, originally the Sonoma Antique Apple Nursery, a longtime resource for professionals and hobbyists alike seeking out romantically named, hard-to-find varieties like Ashmead's Kernel, Coe's Golden Drop, Maiden Blush, Pink Pearl, and Belle de Boskoop.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It helped, too, that they'd moved to a region with a history of apple growing, where disused and abandoned orchards still lingered, untended but stubbornly fruiting in overgrown pastures and forgotten lots, and where local farmers had sharp eyes and long memories for what might have been planted and where. There's also the legacy of Luther Burbank, the agricultural pioneer and prolific plant breeder, who established his \u003ca href=\"http://www.wschsgrf.org/luther-burbank-gold-ridge-experiment-farm\">Gold Ridge Experimental Farm\u003c/a> in Sebastopol in 1885.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's no coincidence that most hard cider in the US comes from apples grown in the Northeast, Upper Midwest, and the drier, chillier parts of the Pacific Northwest. To thrive, many apple tree varieties need the dormancy period provided by a long, cold winter, longer and colder than what the California coast can provide. Discovering what varieties could grow, and grow well, in Sonoma's mild climate became just as important as figuring out the finer details of aging, blending, and fermenting the final juice. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like all good treasure-hunting foragers, Heath and Cavalli show me photos but won't reveal the exact location of the place that inspired their Lost Orchard Dry Cider, except to speculate that it must have been planted by a would-be cidermaker whose dream never quite came to fruition. Almost hidden by weeds and brush along the Russian River, the unpruned, unloved trees were nevertheless a treasure trove of elegantly pedigreed varieties: Roxbury Russet, Nehou, Muscat de Bernay, and more. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Other apples came from Stan Devoto, himself a devotee of old, obscure and delicious apple varieties. In his orchards grow dozens of heirloom varieties like Arkansas Black, Black Twig, Hudson Golden Gem, and Esopus Spitzenburg, all once reknowned for their complex flavors, now pushed aside in the greater marketplace in favor of the sugary, juicebox-sweet pleasures of Fuji and Gala. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And plenty of practical advice came from Tim and Karen Bates of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.philoapplefarm.com/\">Apple Farm\u003c/a> in Philo, near Mendocino. Just as Peggy Smith and Sue Conley of \u003ca href=\"http://www.cowgirlcreamery.com/\">Cowgirl Creamery\u003c/a> are the go-to sources for so many fledging North Bay cheesemakers, so the Bates have become gurus for local cidermakers, generous in sharing the knowledge they've gleaned over 25 years as small-scale, hands-on apple farmers and cider makers. (For more on their cider, read this \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2008/08/30/philo-apple-farm-hard-cider-ahhhhh/\">Bay Area Bites post\u003c/a> from 2008.) \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The local cider-making community is still a small one, especially in the North Bay and Wine Country, where wine and craft beers dominate. This means there's plenty of room for newcomers: Heath will be joining Jolie Devoto and Tim Bates in a panel discussion of \u003ca href=\"http://ecofarm2013.org/event/hard-cider-revival-of-a-nearly-lost-art/\">Hard Cider: Revival of a Nearly Lost Art\u003c/a> at the \u003ca href=\"http://ecofarm2013.org\">2013 EcoFarm Conference\u003c/a> on Jan 25, 2013, at 10:30AM.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>During Sonoma's apple season--from mid August to late October--Heath and Cavalli process and press whenever a big enough load of apples comes in. It's not always easy, given their numerous other commitments: raising a young son, continuing the renovations on their house, grafting and planting more trees in their two-acre orchard, tending a small flock of babydoll sheep (who will, in future, munch down the weeds between the trees), and meeting the deadlines of their bill-paying work--Cavalli as a book editor, copyeditor, and proofreader, Heath as an artist and printmaker. (The bottle labels' exuberant woodcuts and lettering are Heath's work, while Cavalli handles Tilted Shed's marketing and communications). \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_51775\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/sheep800.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/sheep800.jpg\" alt=\"Babydoll sheep Pomona, Hera, and Seamus eating hay. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\" title=\"Babydoll sheep Pomona, Hera, and Seamus eating hay. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\" width=\"560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-51775\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Babydoll sheep Pomona, Hera, and Seamus eating hay. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Still, the harvest doesn't wait, and so, as soon as boxes of apples arrived, whether scavenged, foraged, or bought from local farms, so begins the days-long process of washing, culling, grinding, pressing, and finally fermenting. It helps that the commercial facility they rent is just minutes from their house in Forestville. Even better, the 700-foot space, once a winery, came with a county use permit for making up to 1200 gallons of cider for sale. \"The stars aligned,\" said Cavalli, who discovered the listing on Craigslist. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_51761\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/IMG_4253.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/IMG_4253.jpg\" alt=\"Apple washing tub. Photo: Ellen Cavalli\" title=\"Apple washing tub. Photo: Ellen Cavalli\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-51761\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Apple washing tub. Photo: Ellen Cavalli\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Stripped down, the process goes something like this: First, the apples are poured into big black rubber tubs and washed, then spread out on tables to be sorted and culled, removing any rotten or overly bruised fruit. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_51764\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/IMG_4740.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/IMG_4740.jpg\" alt=\"Ellen Cavalli sorting and culling. Photo: Scott Heath\" title=\"Ellen Cavalli sorting and culling. Photo: Scott Heath \" width=\"560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-51764\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ellen Cavalli sorting and culling. Photo: Scott Heath\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The apples are shredded in a commercial grinder with a .5 horsepower motor, filling 5-gallon buckets with \"a nice fine pomace.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_51766\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/IMG_4746.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/IMG_4746.jpg\" alt=\"Grinding apples before pressing. Photo: Ellen Cavalli\" title=\"Grinding apples before pressing. Photo: Ellen Cavalli \" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-51766\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Grinding apples before pressing. Photo: Ellen Cavalli \u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Thick piles of shredded fruit are wrapped in heavy cloth, then each wrapped bundle is stacked one above the other on hand-built racks in the hydraulic press. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_51767\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/IMG_4747.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/IMG_4747.jpg\" alt=\"Wrapping ground apples for pressing. Photo: Ellen Cavalli\" title=\"Wrapping ground apples for pressing. Photo: Ellen Cavalli \" width=\"560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-51767\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Wrapping ground apples for pressing. Photo: Ellen Cavalli\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Hooked up to a compressor, the cloth-wrapped bundles are slowly squeezed down, amber juice running out. Fermentation, blending and aging follows, stretched out through the end of autumn into the following spring. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_51769\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/IMG_4753.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/IMG_4753.jpg\" alt=\"Fresh cider squeezed out by the press. Photo: Ellen Cavalli\" title=\"Fresh cider squeezed out by the press. Photo: Ellen Cavalli\" width=\"560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-51769\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fresh cider squeezed out by the press. Photo: Ellen Cavalli\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_51797\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 250px\">\u003ca href=\"http://www.tiltedshed.com/our-ciders.html\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/cider-labels.jpg\" alt=\"Three varieties of Tilted Shed bottled cider\" title=\"Three varieties of Tilted Shed bottled cider\" width=\"250\" height=\"333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-51797\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Three varieties of Tilted Shed cider. Photo courtesy of Tilted Shed Ciderworks\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>For their \u003cstrong>January Barbecue Smoked Cider\u003c/strong>, a few apples are sliced and smoked gently over pear wood, then added to the cider as it ages. The result is \"the only bottled smoked cider in the U.S.,\" according to Heath, a tangy, aromatic pour with a hint of smoke to it, just enough of a whiff to inspire a pairing with a good grilled sausage or juicy burger. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Graviva!\u003c/strong>, a semi-dry cider made with Sebastopol's locally celebrated Gravenstein apple, is a perfect aperitif or dessert sparkler, just lightly off-dry, effervescent and lively. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My everyday cider, however, would have to be the \u003cstrong>Lost Orchard\u003c/strong>, complex and fragrant, with a depth of flavor usually saved for wine-priced French ciders from Normandy, home of Calvados, a potent apple brandy. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So happy Thanksgiving, and whether you're smoking or brining, enjoying turkey or tofurkey, raise a glass to drinking locally.\u003cbr clear=\"all\"> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.tiltedshed.com/\">\u003cstrong>Tilted Shed Ciderworks\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/pages/Tilted-Shed-Ciderworks/145205622223552\">Tilted Shed Ciderworks\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/tiltedshed\">@tiltedshed\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Tilted Shed ciders can be found in the East Bay at both \u003ca href=\"http://www.berkeleybowl.com/\">Berkeley Bowl\u003c/a> locations, and in Sonoma at \u003ca href=\"http://www.andysproduce.com/\">Andy's Fruit Market\u003c/a> in Sebastopol.\u003c/em> Tilted Shed cider is also on the menu at \u003ca href=\"http://www.upcidersf.com\">Upcider\u003c/a> bar in San Francisco. \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "What are you drinking for Thanksgiving? This year, I'm toasting with dry, autumn-golden hard cider made by Sebastopol's Tilted Shed Ciderworks, as craft cider makes a comeback in the Bay Area. ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_51773\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/variety-apples640.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/variety-apples640.jpg\" alt=\"A mix of local apples goes in the cider. Photo: Ellen Cavalli\" title=\"A mix of local apples goes in the cider. Photo: Ellen Cavalli\" width=\"560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-51773\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A mix of local apples goes in the cider. Photo: Ellen Cavalli\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>What are you drinking for Thanksgiving? Local cooking teacher Mary Risley \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=foA0MGUbYH0\">may swear by Pinot Noir\u003c/a>, other wine writers by \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2012/11/21/dining/thanksgiving-wines-for-when-you-didnt-plan-ahead.html\">Ravenswood Zin or Oregon whites\u003c/a>, but this year, my guests will be toasting with dry, autumn-golden hard cider made by the husband and wife team of Scott Heath and Ellen Cavalli of Sebastopol's \u003ca href=\"http://www.tiltedshed.com\">Tilted Shed Ciderworks\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_51772\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/tilted-family800.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/tilted-family800.jpg\" alt=\"Scott Heath, Ellen Cavalli, and Ben. Photo: Miya Endo\" title=\"Scott Heath, Ellen Cavalli, and Ben. Photo: Miya Endo\" width=\"560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-51772\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Scott Heath, Ellen Cavalli, and Ben. Photo: Miya Endo\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Why cider, right now? Appropriately for a harvest festival, it's local, made from a wide variety of apples grown and gleaned around Sebastopol, an area that put Sonoma on the map as an apple-growing region before gaining fame for its grapes. In celebrating this uniquely American holiday, it always seems particularly appropriate to go all-American from plate to glass. Save the French champagne (or French ciders) for New Year's; for Thanksgiving, let's toast with what America has to offer. Already planned your sit-down dinner's wines? Well, nothing goes better with the weekend's turkey-and-cranberry sandwiches than a tangy quaff of lightly chilled cider. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And cider, particularly hard cider, has a long but mostly forgotten history as a favorite American beverage, especially during the Colonial era. Settling in the Northeast, where apples, both wild and planted, grew readily, British-born colonists--especially those from the southwest of England, \u003ca href=\"http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/2012/feb/24/short-guide-to-british-cider\">renowned for its ciders\u003c/a>--lost no time in pressing and fermenting the juice of the fruit they found, especially since the often bitter and tannic wild apples made the best hard cider. Generally fairly low in alcohol, cider was an everyday drink, made at home and served at taverns.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It wasn't until large-scale grain farming took over the Midwest, along with a influx of beer-drinking German immigrant farmers--that beer nudged out cider as the American drink of choice. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But lately, cider's been \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2012/11/08/164599735/americans-rediscover-the-kick-of-hard-cider\">having a revival\u003c/a> in the Bay Area. There's San Francisco's recently opened \u003ca href=\"http://www.upcidersf.com/\">Upcider\u003c/a>, a cider-focused gastropub in Polk Gulch. At organic heirloom apple farm \u003ca href=\"http://www.devotogardens.com/\">Devoto Gardens\u003c/a>, family member Jolie Devoto just launched Apple Sauced, a hard cider pressed from their own Gravenstein apples. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And Tilted Shed, which started bottling professionally in 2011, now has three varieties in its product line: Lost Orchard Dry Cider, January Barbecue Smoked Cider, and Graviva! Semidry Cider, made from Gravensteins. This past harvest season, they pressed over 1000 gallons of cider, a three-fold increase over the previous year. In early 2013, they'll be releasing 2012's January Barbecue Smoked Cider; the remaining three varieties, including a new, as-yet-unnamed blend, will be released throughout the year. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_51770\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/IMG_4758.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/IMG_4758.jpg\" alt=\"Carboys of cider during the fermentation process. Photo: Ellen Cavalli\" title=\"Carboys of cider during the fermentation process. Photo: Ellen Cavalli\" width=\"560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-51770\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Carboys of cider during the fermentation process. Photo: Ellen Cavalli\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>So, how did Heath and Cavalli end up as artisanal cider makers, tracking down the fruit of abandoned orchards like treasure hunters diving around a sunken Spanish galleon? Blame it on the pickles, the homesteaders' gateway ferment. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Born in Northern California, Heath and Cavalli started homesteading in rural New Mexico, doing some small market farming, always on the lookout for new projects. \"We liked making our own food,\" noted Cavalli, and after pickling and making sauerkraut, making a small batch of hard cider from a mixed batch of local apples seemed like a fun next step. Much to their surprise, their first, casual effort was good. Much better than they expected, in fact, and they quickly \"became obsessed\" with cider-making. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When they thought about moving back to California, they knew it would have to be somewhere with apple-growing potential, which led them to a several-acre property near Forestville, good land but affordable because the rundown house was barely habitable. Undaunted, they moved in and starting the renovation themselves. The house is comfortable now, surrounded by both spreading oaks and wandering chickens, with a vegetable garden and spindly rows of newly grafted and planted apple trees, the hopes of the future Tilted Shed cider orchard. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One afternoon last month, Scott and Ellen took a moment between apple pick-ups to share some of last year's batch of cider, serving it with cheese made by their friends Joel and Carleen Weirauch, nearby Petaluma ranchers and cheesemakers who trade their \u003ca href=\"http://www.weirauchfarm.com/Weirauch_Farm_%26_Creamery/CHEESE.html\">cheese\u003c/a> for culled apples and pomace to feed to their pasture-raised sheep. On the table are apples of all sizes and shapes, every taste from pleasantly sweet-tart to mouth-puckeringly bitter. There was Porter's Perfection and Kingston Black, bittersweet English cider apples popular in Victorian times; Kidd's Orange Red, an early-20th century New Zealand-bred cross between Cox's Orange Pippin, a classic English dessert apple, and the original American Delicious, first bred in 1870; and Nehou, an early-20th century French cider apple.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_51759\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/IMG_4184.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/IMG_4184.jpg\" alt=\"Boxes of Sebastopol apples. Photo: Ellen Cavalli\" title=\"Boxes of Sebastopol apples. Photo: Ellen Cavalli\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-51759\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Boxes of Sebastopol apples. Photo: Ellen Cavalli\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The trickiest part of cider-making, says Heath, was sourcing the fruit. It will take several years, at least, before their own trees start bearing enough fruit to supply all their cider-making needs. The challenge, until then, is that the best cider apples--typically bitter, dense-fleshed, and astringently tannic, with many heirloom varieties dating back to the 17th and 18th centuries--have all but disappeared from commercial orchards and nurseries, replaced by sweeter, juicier varieties bred for out-of-hand eating. Pleasant cider can, of course, be made from sweet apples, but, just as wine needs tannic grapes to give it structure, so Heath tries to use a mixture of bitter, bittersweet, sharp, and sweet apples to give his slow-aged cider the desired complexity and depth. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's a treasure hunt,\" said Heath. \"We talk to everyone,\" starting with local nursery \u003ca href=\"http://www.treesofantiquity.com\">Trees of Antiquity\u003c/a>, originally the Sonoma Antique Apple Nursery, a longtime resource for professionals and hobbyists alike seeking out romantically named, hard-to-find varieties like Ashmead's Kernel, Coe's Golden Drop, Maiden Blush, Pink Pearl, and Belle de Boskoop.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It helped, too, that they'd moved to a region with a history of apple growing, where disused and abandoned orchards still lingered, untended but stubbornly fruiting in overgrown pastures and forgotten lots, and where local farmers had sharp eyes and long memories for what might have been planted and where. There's also the legacy of Luther Burbank, the agricultural pioneer and prolific plant breeder, who established his \u003ca href=\"http://www.wschsgrf.org/luther-burbank-gold-ridge-experiment-farm\">Gold Ridge Experimental Farm\u003c/a> in Sebastopol in 1885.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's no coincidence that most hard cider in the US comes from apples grown in the Northeast, Upper Midwest, and the drier, chillier parts of the Pacific Northwest. To thrive, many apple tree varieties need the dormancy period provided by a long, cold winter, longer and colder than what the California coast can provide. Discovering what varieties could grow, and grow well, in Sonoma's mild climate became just as important as figuring out the finer details of aging, blending, and fermenting the final juice. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like all good treasure-hunting foragers, Heath and Cavalli show me photos but won't reveal the exact location of the place that inspired their Lost Orchard Dry Cider, except to speculate that it must have been planted by a would-be cidermaker whose dream never quite came to fruition. Almost hidden by weeds and brush along the Russian River, the unpruned, unloved trees were nevertheless a treasure trove of elegantly pedigreed varieties: Roxbury Russet, Nehou, Muscat de Bernay, and more. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Other apples came from Stan Devoto, himself a devotee of old, obscure and delicious apple varieties. In his orchards grow dozens of heirloom varieties like Arkansas Black, Black Twig, Hudson Golden Gem, and Esopus Spitzenburg, all once reknowned for their complex flavors, now pushed aside in the greater marketplace in favor of the sugary, juicebox-sweet pleasures of Fuji and Gala. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And plenty of practical advice came from Tim and Karen Bates of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.philoapplefarm.com/\">Apple Farm\u003c/a> in Philo, near Mendocino. Just as Peggy Smith and Sue Conley of \u003ca href=\"http://www.cowgirlcreamery.com/\">Cowgirl Creamery\u003c/a> are the go-to sources for so many fledging North Bay cheesemakers, so the Bates have become gurus for local cidermakers, generous in sharing the knowledge they've gleaned over 25 years as small-scale, hands-on apple farmers and cider makers. (For more on their cider, read this \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2008/08/30/philo-apple-farm-hard-cider-ahhhhh/\">Bay Area Bites post\u003c/a> from 2008.) \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The local cider-making community is still a small one, especially in the North Bay and Wine Country, where wine and craft beers dominate. This means there's plenty of room for newcomers: Heath will be joining Jolie Devoto and Tim Bates in a panel discussion of \u003ca href=\"http://ecofarm2013.org/event/hard-cider-revival-of-a-nearly-lost-art/\">Hard Cider: Revival of a Nearly Lost Art\u003c/a> at the \u003ca href=\"http://ecofarm2013.org\">2013 EcoFarm Conference\u003c/a> on Jan 25, 2013, at 10:30AM.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>During Sonoma's apple season--from mid August to late October--Heath and Cavalli process and press whenever a big enough load of apples comes in. It's not always easy, given their numerous other commitments: raising a young son, continuing the renovations on their house, grafting and planting more trees in their two-acre orchard, tending a small flock of babydoll sheep (who will, in future, munch down the weeds between the trees), and meeting the deadlines of their bill-paying work--Cavalli as a book editor, copyeditor, and proofreader, Heath as an artist and printmaker. (The bottle labels' exuberant woodcuts and lettering are Heath's work, while Cavalli handles Tilted Shed's marketing and communications). \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_51775\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/sheep800.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/sheep800.jpg\" alt=\"Babydoll sheep Pomona, Hera, and Seamus eating hay. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\" title=\"Babydoll sheep Pomona, Hera, and Seamus eating hay. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\" width=\"560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-51775\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Babydoll sheep Pomona, Hera, and Seamus eating hay. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Still, the harvest doesn't wait, and so, as soon as boxes of apples arrived, whether scavenged, foraged, or bought from local farms, so begins the days-long process of washing, culling, grinding, pressing, and finally fermenting. It helps that the commercial facility they rent is just minutes from their house in Forestville. Even better, the 700-foot space, once a winery, came with a county use permit for making up to 1200 gallons of cider for sale. \"The stars aligned,\" said Cavalli, who discovered the listing on Craigslist. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_51761\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/IMG_4253.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/IMG_4253.jpg\" alt=\"Apple washing tub. Photo: Ellen Cavalli\" title=\"Apple washing tub. Photo: Ellen Cavalli\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-51761\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Apple washing tub. Photo: Ellen Cavalli\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Stripped down, the process goes something like this: First, the apples are poured into big black rubber tubs and washed, then spread out on tables to be sorted and culled, removing any rotten or overly bruised fruit. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_51764\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/IMG_4740.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/IMG_4740.jpg\" alt=\"Ellen Cavalli sorting and culling. Photo: Scott Heath\" title=\"Ellen Cavalli sorting and culling. Photo: Scott Heath \" width=\"560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-51764\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ellen Cavalli sorting and culling. Photo: Scott Heath\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The apples are shredded in a commercial grinder with a .5 horsepower motor, filling 5-gallon buckets with \"a nice fine pomace.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_51766\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/IMG_4746.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/IMG_4746.jpg\" alt=\"Grinding apples before pressing. Photo: Ellen Cavalli\" title=\"Grinding apples before pressing. Photo: Ellen Cavalli \" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-51766\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Grinding apples before pressing. Photo: Ellen Cavalli \u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Thick piles of shredded fruit are wrapped in heavy cloth, then each wrapped bundle is stacked one above the other on hand-built racks in the hydraulic press. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_51767\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/IMG_4747.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/IMG_4747.jpg\" alt=\"Wrapping ground apples for pressing. Photo: Ellen Cavalli\" title=\"Wrapping ground apples for pressing. Photo: Ellen Cavalli \" width=\"560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-51767\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Wrapping ground apples for pressing. Photo: Ellen Cavalli\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Hooked up to a compressor, the cloth-wrapped bundles are slowly squeezed down, amber juice running out. Fermentation, blending and aging follows, stretched out through the end of autumn into the following spring. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_51769\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/IMG_4753.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/IMG_4753.jpg\" alt=\"Fresh cider squeezed out by the press. Photo: Ellen Cavalli\" title=\"Fresh cider squeezed out by the press. Photo: Ellen Cavalli\" width=\"560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-51769\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fresh cider squeezed out by the press. Photo: Ellen Cavalli\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_51797\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 250px\">\u003ca href=\"http://www.tiltedshed.com/our-ciders.html\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/cider-labels.jpg\" alt=\"Three varieties of Tilted Shed bottled cider\" title=\"Three varieties of Tilted Shed bottled cider\" width=\"250\" height=\"333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-51797\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Three varieties of Tilted Shed cider. Photo courtesy of Tilted Shed Ciderworks\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>For their \u003cstrong>January Barbecue Smoked Cider\u003c/strong>, a few apples are sliced and smoked gently over pear wood, then added to the cider as it ages. The result is \"the only bottled smoked cider in the U.S.,\" according to Heath, a tangy, aromatic pour with a hint of smoke to it, just enough of a whiff to inspire a pairing with a good grilled sausage or juicy burger. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Graviva!\u003c/strong>, a semi-dry cider made with Sebastopol's locally celebrated Gravenstein apple, is a perfect aperitif or dessert sparkler, just lightly off-dry, effervescent and lively. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My everyday cider, however, would have to be the \u003cstrong>Lost Orchard\u003c/strong>, complex and fragrant, with a depth of flavor usually saved for wine-priced French ciders from Normandy, home of Calvados, a potent apple brandy. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So happy Thanksgiving, and whether you're smoking or brining, enjoying turkey or tofurkey, raise a glass to drinking locally.\u003cbr clear=\"all\"> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.tiltedshed.com/\">\u003cstrong>Tilted Shed Ciderworks\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/pages/Tilted-Shed-Ciderworks/145205622223552\">Tilted Shed Ciderworks\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/tiltedshed\">@tiltedshed\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Tilted Shed ciders can be found in the East Bay at both \u003ca href=\"http://www.berkeleybowl.com/\">Berkeley Bowl\u003c/a> locations, and in Sonoma at \u003ca href=\"http://www.andysproduce.com/\">Andy's Fruit Market\u003c/a> in Sebastopol.\u003c/em> Tilted Shed cider is also on the menu at \u003ca href=\"http://www.upcidersf.com\">Upcider\u003c/a> bar in San Francisco. \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_51429\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 248px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/SFFoodBank20121115.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/SFFoodBank20121115.jpg\" alt=\"San Francisco Food Bank. Photo: Justin Sullivan/Getty Images\" title=\"San Francisco Food Bank. Photo: Justin Sullivan/Getty Images\" width=\"248\" height=\"140\" class=\"size-full wp-image-51429\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A worker passes a nearly empty shelf at the San Francisco Food Bank in November, 2009, a time when food banks saw increased demand due to the recession. Justin Sullivan/Getty Images\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Thanksgiving is just around the corner -- but some local food banks are reporting a lack of donations. KQED's \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/radio/programs/forum/index.jsp\">Forum\u003c/a> talks with local food banks about food shortages and what people can do to help.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/a/forum/R201211161030\">Original Broadcast:\u003c/a> Fri, Nov 16, 2012 -- 10:30 AM\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Listen to the radio program:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n [audio src=\"http://www.kqed.org/.stream/anon/radio/forum/2012/11/20121116bbforum.mp3\"] \u003cbr clear=\"all\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\nHost: Dave Iverson\u003cbr>\nGuests:\n\u003cli>Barry Stenger, interim executive director of the St. Anthony Foundation\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>John Healey, president and CEO of California Emergency Foodlink\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Kelly Siefkin, communications director for the Sacramento Food Bank and Family Services\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>More info:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.feedingamericanortherncalifornia.org/\">List of Northern California food banks\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.foodlink.org/\">California Emergency Foodlink\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.sacramentofoodbank.org/\">Sacramento Food Bank\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.stanthonysf.org/\">St. Anthony's of San Francisco\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_51429\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 248px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/SFFoodBank20121115.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/SFFoodBank20121115.jpg\" alt=\"San Francisco Food Bank. Photo: Justin Sullivan/Getty Images\" title=\"San Francisco Food Bank. Photo: Justin Sullivan/Getty Images\" width=\"248\" height=\"140\" class=\"size-full wp-image-51429\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A worker passes a nearly empty shelf at the San Francisco Food Bank in November, 2009, a time when food banks saw increased demand due to the recession. Justin Sullivan/Getty Images\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Thanksgiving is just around the corner -- but some local food banks are reporting a lack of donations. KQED's \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/radio/programs/forum/index.jsp\">Forum\u003c/a> talks with local food banks about food shortages and what people can do to help.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/a/forum/R201211161030\">Original Broadcast:\u003c/a> Fri, Nov 16, 2012 -- 10:30 AM\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Listen to the radio program:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n \u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp> \u003cbr clear=\"all\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\nHost: Dave Iverson\u003cbr>\nGuests:\n\u003cli>Barry Stenger, interim executive director of the St. Anthony Foundation\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>John Healey, president and CEO of California Emergency Foodlink\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Kelly Siefkin, communications director for the Sacramento Food Bank and Family Services\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>More info:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.feedingamericanortherncalifornia.org/\">List of Northern California food banks\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.foodlink.org/\">California Emergency Foodlink\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.sacramentofoodbank.org/\">Sacramento Food Bank\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.stanthonysf.org/\">St. Anthony's of San Francisco\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "Q&A with Mission Restaurateur Yaron Milgrom",
"title": "Q&A with Mission Restaurateur Yaron Milgrom",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/560_BAB_Yaron.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/560_BAB_Yaron.jpg\" alt=\"Yaron Milgrom. Photo credit: Timmy Malloy\" title=\"Yaron Milgrom. Photo credit: Timmy Malloy\" width=\"560\" height=\"418\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50817\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Yaron Milgrom. Photo credit: Timmy Malloy, sous chef at Local's Corner\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mission District resident Yaron Milgrom didn’t plan on becoming a restaurant owner five years ago when he moved to San Francisco with his wife Miriam, who was training to be a doctor at San Francisco General Hospital. Milgrom owns \u003ca href=\"http://www.localscornersf.com/\">Local’s Corner\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.localmissioneatery.com/\">Local: Mission Eatery\u003c/a> and is at work on a third Mission food business. He had studied Medieval Jewish Mysticism at NYU. While he's maybe not the most likely candidate to build two successful restaurants, Milgrom has succeeded so far. He was drawn to the idea of creating community and feeding others, hence the use of work local for both businesses. Bay Area Bites caught up with Milgrom to find out what it’s like to start two food eateries from scratch and what his plans are for the future.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: How has the Mission changed and what role do you see your restaurants playing in those changes, if any?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Milgrom:\u003c/strong> I moved to the neighborhood five years ago and pretty much the week we moved here, Dynamo Donuts opened. That marks the beginning of a certain reconsideration of the neighborhood and a real possibility for a broader diversity and different culinary opportunity in the neighborhood. We came here to be near SF General, where my wife was training. We fell in love with the neighborhood and thought it really needed options that were locally sourced, well prepared and from scratch. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My family and I really loved 24th street, because it’s tree lined and colorful and interesting but later in the day, there wasn’t necessarily a great feeling of safety. So we came up with the idea to make the street more safe and welcoming as a goal, and to be a street presence. Now, our restaurants are open five days a week and we have customers eating dinner ‘til eleven at night.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The changes here in the last five years include \u003ca href=\"http://www.dynamodonut.com/\">Dynamo Donuts\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.humphryslocombe.com/Home.html\">Humphry Slocombe\u003c/a>, us, \u003ca href=\"http://heirloom-sf.com/\">Heirloom\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.flourandwater.com/\">flour + water\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.pigandpiesf.com/\">Pig and Pie\u003c/a> and newly opened retail and gallery spaces. All of those are transitions for the neighborhood; we’re hoping for crossover appeal, and not only from a class and race standpoint. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Do you have any mentors?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Milgrom:\u003c/strong> When I was a graduate student I interned with \u003ca href=\"http://www.willpowder.net/goldfarb.html\">Will Goldfarb\u003c/a> once a week. He has expert knowledge of pastry and culinary methods and knew the temperature of sugar just by looking at it. Now I really appreciate the discipline of cooks. All of our cooks tie garbage bags well, sweep well, dice well… so you see a real sense of caring and a craft.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Local: Mission Eatery Executive Chef \u003ca href=\"http://www.localmissioneatery.com/about-us/founders\">Jake Des Voignes\u003c/a> is a mentor and helped me understand how the kitchen works. I’m really appreciative of him, as well as \u003ca href=\"http://missionlocal.org/2010/03/flour-water-ingredients-for-business-success-in-the-mission/\">David Steele\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.flourandwater.com/about/\">David White\u003c/a> – and more of the folks from flour + water, and Sebo helped me. \u003ca href=\"http://starchefs.com/chefs/rising_stars/2007/sf/html/bio_l_jossel_.shtml\">Laurence Jossel\u003c/a>, too. Early on I talked to people and got little tidbits of information, which can be really encouraging.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What are the best and worst things about being a restaurateur?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Milgrom:\u003c/strong> I really love what I do and that I have 27 employees between the two restaurants. What we do well supports 27 people and makes their lives possible. Between the two restaurants, we spend tens of thousands of dollars on food and wine and literally know the people who produce our food, wine, cheese, and olive oil... We’ve visited them and they visit us. To have relatively small restaurants and have a big impact is great. I love being around delicious food and being able to taste and give feedback on it each day. I walk between the two spots and see neighbors -- we meet at the park, we go to each others homes. I love that my kids have this sense of family with staff and it’s special.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I’m very lucky, because I bring my son to school and pick him up every day. I eat dinner with my family and work till one or two every night. I’ve been able to grow the business and still be with them. I don’t think anyone could be luckier than that. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The worst aspects are it’s a tremendous amount of pressure and anxiety. Ultimately the buck does stop at the top. Making sure the business continues to operate is on me. All the tens of thousands of dollars we spend and paying those 27 people -- they need to be paid on time. There’s pressure to deliver to our employees and our vendors, and they put a lot of trust in us. Then I have friends and family who helped get this started, so I really want to make good on the promises I made to them. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Do you have any favorite Bay Area food spots?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Milgrom:\u003c/strong> As a family we do mostly eat at home -- we don’t eat at our own restaurants except for Sunday brunch. We eat at \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/el-metate-san-francisco\">El Metate\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.bartartine.com/\">Bar Tartine\u003c/a>. Bar Tartine is so interesting.\u003cbr>\nI like \u003ca href=\"http://www.sebosf.com/site/home.html\">Sebo\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://ichisushi.com/\">Ichi\u003c/a> for sushi.\u003cbr>\nI go to \u003ca href=\"http://www.flourandwater.com/\">flour + water\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.salumeriasf.com/\">Salumeria\u003c/a> during the day.\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.ippukuberkeley.com/home\">Ippuku\u003c/a> in Berkeley is just phenomenal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Local: Mission Eatery has a selection of cookbooks. Does your training as a scholar have anything to do with the library?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Milgrom:\u003c/strong> For me, it’s about being open about your influences. There’s so much of an emphasis on culinary innovation as if it stands on its own. It’s not that there’s nothing new under the sun. It’s really important to me as a scholar and an eater to recognize that ideas have sources. Our culinary tradition is European-based around ingredients and method-based.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Where do you think the U.S. is in terms of appreciation for other cultures food-wise? \u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Milgrom:\u003c/strong> I have very little idea what it looks like between New York and San Francisco. In San Francisco, we have a diversity of food opportunities. You have the Eastern European food which is really taking hold and wines from there as well. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For authenticity, the Thai food that people are eating has been modified for an American palate. There are regional foods: Thai, Chinese, Italian.... But now we have more of a sense that there is more to, say Italian food: there’s Tuscan food, and there’s Roman food. That is a deep level of appreciation. It’s not just having Thai, Italian or Chinese restaurant; it’s enjoying the heritage. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Do you have any foods that you enjoy and are a guilty pleasure?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Milgrom:\u003c/strong> In our house we really don’t eat processed or mass produced food. Part of being a parent and creating businesses is to not have or sell packaged goods.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We certainly eat ice cream. I don’t know how many days of a week I eat pastries from \u003ca href=\"http://www.kneadpatisserie.com/\">Knead Patisserie\u003c/a>. Right now their Linzer cookie is a favorite. \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Mary Ladd interviews Yaron Milgrom, who employs 27 people at two Mission District eateries and strongly believes in food made from scratch that is locally sourced. Milgrom explains what community means and what it's like to live and work in the ever-changing Mission.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/560_BAB_Yaron.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/560_BAB_Yaron.jpg\" alt=\"Yaron Milgrom. Photo credit: Timmy Malloy\" title=\"Yaron Milgrom. Photo credit: Timmy Malloy\" width=\"560\" height=\"418\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50817\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Yaron Milgrom. Photo credit: Timmy Malloy, sous chef at Local's Corner\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mission District resident Yaron Milgrom didn’t plan on becoming a restaurant owner five years ago when he moved to San Francisco with his wife Miriam, who was training to be a doctor at San Francisco General Hospital. Milgrom owns \u003ca href=\"http://www.localscornersf.com/\">Local’s Corner\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.localmissioneatery.com/\">Local: Mission Eatery\u003c/a> and is at work on a third Mission food business. He had studied Medieval Jewish Mysticism at NYU. While he's maybe not the most likely candidate to build two successful restaurants, Milgrom has succeeded so far. He was drawn to the idea of creating community and feeding others, hence the use of work local for both businesses. Bay Area Bites caught up with Milgrom to find out what it’s like to start two food eateries from scratch and what his plans are for the future.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: How has the Mission changed and what role do you see your restaurants playing in those changes, if any?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Milgrom:\u003c/strong> I moved to the neighborhood five years ago and pretty much the week we moved here, Dynamo Donuts opened. That marks the beginning of a certain reconsideration of the neighborhood and a real possibility for a broader diversity and different culinary opportunity in the neighborhood. We came here to be near SF General, where my wife was training. We fell in love with the neighborhood and thought it really needed options that were locally sourced, well prepared and from scratch. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My family and I really loved 24th street, because it’s tree lined and colorful and interesting but later in the day, there wasn’t necessarily a great feeling of safety. So we came up with the idea to make the street more safe and welcoming as a goal, and to be a street presence. Now, our restaurants are open five days a week and we have customers eating dinner ‘til eleven at night.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The changes here in the last five years include \u003ca href=\"http://www.dynamodonut.com/\">Dynamo Donuts\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.humphryslocombe.com/Home.html\">Humphry Slocombe\u003c/a>, us, \u003ca href=\"http://heirloom-sf.com/\">Heirloom\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.flourandwater.com/\">flour + water\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.pigandpiesf.com/\">Pig and Pie\u003c/a> and newly opened retail and gallery spaces. All of those are transitions for the neighborhood; we’re hoping for crossover appeal, and not only from a class and race standpoint. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Do you have any mentors?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Milgrom:\u003c/strong> When I was a graduate student I interned with \u003ca href=\"http://www.willpowder.net/goldfarb.html\">Will Goldfarb\u003c/a> once a week. He has expert knowledge of pastry and culinary methods and knew the temperature of sugar just by looking at it. Now I really appreciate the discipline of cooks. All of our cooks tie garbage bags well, sweep well, dice well… so you see a real sense of caring and a craft.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Local: Mission Eatery Executive Chef \u003ca href=\"http://www.localmissioneatery.com/about-us/founders\">Jake Des Voignes\u003c/a> is a mentor and helped me understand how the kitchen works. I’m really appreciative of him, as well as \u003ca href=\"http://missionlocal.org/2010/03/flour-water-ingredients-for-business-success-in-the-mission/\">David Steele\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.flourandwater.com/about/\">David White\u003c/a> – and more of the folks from flour + water, and Sebo helped me. \u003ca href=\"http://starchefs.com/chefs/rising_stars/2007/sf/html/bio_l_jossel_.shtml\">Laurence Jossel\u003c/a>, too. Early on I talked to people and got little tidbits of information, which can be really encouraging.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What are the best and worst things about being a restaurateur?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Milgrom:\u003c/strong> I really love what I do and that I have 27 employees between the two restaurants. What we do well supports 27 people and makes their lives possible. Between the two restaurants, we spend tens of thousands of dollars on food and wine and literally know the people who produce our food, wine, cheese, and olive oil... We’ve visited them and they visit us. To have relatively small restaurants and have a big impact is great. I love being around delicious food and being able to taste and give feedback on it each day. I walk between the two spots and see neighbors -- we meet at the park, we go to each others homes. I love that my kids have this sense of family with staff and it’s special.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I’m very lucky, because I bring my son to school and pick him up every day. I eat dinner with my family and work till one or two every night. I’ve been able to grow the business and still be with them. I don’t think anyone could be luckier than that. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The worst aspects are it’s a tremendous amount of pressure and anxiety. Ultimately the buck does stop at the top. Making sure the business continues to operate is on me. All the tens of thousands of dollars we spend and paying those 27 people -- they need to be paid on time. There’s pressure to deliver to our employees and our vendors, and they put a lot of trust in us. Then I have friends and family who helped get this started, so I really want to make good on the promises I made to them. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Do you have any favorite Bay Area food spots?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Milgrom:\u003c/strong> As a family we do mostly eat at home -- we don’t eat at our own restaurants except for Sunday brunch. We eat at \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/el-metate-san-francisco\">El Metate\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.bartartine.com/\">Bar Tartine\u003c/a>. Bar Tartine is so interesting.\u003cbr>\nI like \u003ca href=\"http://www.sebosf.com/site/home.html\">Sebo\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://ichisushi.com/\">Ichi\u003c/a> for sushi.\u003cbr>\nI go to \u003ca href=\"http://www.flourandwater.com/\">flour + water\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.salumeriasf.com/\">Salumeria\u003c/a> during the day.\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.ippukuberkeley.com/home\">Ippuku\u003c/a> in Berkeley is just phenomenal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Local: Mission Eatery has a selection of cookbooks. Does your training as a scholar have anything to do with the library?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Milgrom:\u003c/strong> For me, it’s about being open about your influences. There’s so much of an emphasis on culinary innovation as if it stands on its own. It’s not that there’s nothing new under the sun. It’s really important to me as a scholar and an eater to recognize that ideas have sources. Our culinary tradition is European-based around ingredients and method-based.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Where do you think the U.S. is in terms of appreciation for other cultures food-wise? \u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Milgrom:\u003c/strong> I have very little idea what it looks like between New York and San Francisco. In San Francisco, we have a diversity of food opportunities. You have the Eastern European food which is really taking hold and wines from there as well. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For authenticity, the Thai food that people are eating has been modified for an American palate. There are regional foods: Thai, Chinese, Italian.... But now we have more of a sense that there is more to, say Italian food: there’s Tuscan food, and there’s Roman food. That is a deep level of appreciation. It’s not just having Thai, Italian or Chinese restaurant; it’s enjoying the heritage. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Do you have any foods that you enjoy and are a guilty pleasure?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Milgrom:\u003c/strong> In our house we really don’t eat processed or mass produced food. Part of being a parent and creating businesses is to not have or sell packaged goods.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"info": "What kind of no sabo word is Hyphenación? For us, it’s about living within a hyphenation. Like being a third-gen Mexican-American from the Texas border now living that Bay Area Chicano life. Like Xorje! Each week we bring together a couple of hyphenated Latinos to talk all about personal life choices: family, careers, relationships, belonging … everything is on the table. ",
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"info": "The Political Mind of Jerry Brown brings listeners the wisdom of the former Governor, Mayor, and presidential candidate. Scott Shafer interviewed Brown for more than 40 hours, covering the former governor's life and half-century in the political game – and Brown has some lessons he'd like to share. ",
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"info": "Our flagship program, helmed by Kai Ryssdal, examines what the day in money delivered, through stories, conversations, newsworthy numbers and more. Updated Monday through Friday at about 3:30 p.m. PT.",
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"masters-of-scale": {
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},
"mindshift": {
"id": "mindshift",
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"info": "The MindShift podcast explores the innovations in education that are shaping how kids learn. Hosts Ki Sung and Katrina Schwartz introduce listeners to educators, researchers, parents and students who are developing effective ways to improve how kids learn. We cover topics like how fed-up administrators are developing surprising tactics to deal with classroom disruptions; how listening to podcasts are helping kids develop reading skills; the consequences of overparenting; and why interdisciplinary learning can engage students on all ends of the traditional achievement spectrum. This podcast is part of the MindShift education site, a division of KQED News. KQED is an NPR/PBS member station based in San Francisco. You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>",
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"order": 12
},
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM1NzY0NjAwNDI5",
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"morning-edition": {
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"info": "\u003cem>Morning Edition\u003c/em> takes listeners around the country and the world with multi-faceted stories and commentaries every weekday. Hosts Steve Inskeep, David Greene and Rachel Martin bring you the latest breaking news and features to prepare you for the day.",
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"onourwatch": {
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"title": "On Our Watch",
"tagline": "Deeply-reported investigative journalism",
"info": "For decades, the process for how police police themselves has been inconsistent – if not opaque. In some states, like California, these proceedings were completely hidden. After a new police transparency law unsealed scores of internal affairs files, our reporters set out to examine these cases and the shadow world of police discipline. On Our Watch brings listeners into the rooms where officers are questioned and witnesses are interrogated to find out who this system is really protecting. Is it the officers, or the public they've sworn to serve?",
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"order": 11
},
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"on-the-media": {
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"title": "On The Media",
"info": "Our weekly podcast explores how the media 'sausage' is made, casts an incisive eye on fluctuations in the marketplace of ideas, and examines threats to the freedom of information and expression in America and abroad. For one hour a week, the show tries to lift the veil from the process of \"making media,\" especially news media, because it's through that lens that we see the world and the world sees us",
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"link": "/radio/program/on-the-media",
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},
"pbs-newshour": {
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"tuneIn": "https://tunein.com/radio/PBS-NewsHour---Full-Show-p425698/",
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},
"perspectives": {
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"order": 14
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"planet-money": {
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"info": "The economy explained. Imagine you could call up a friend and say, Meet me at the bar and tell me what's going on with the economy. Now imagine that's actually a fun evening.",
"airtime": "SUN 3pm-4pm",
"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/planetmoney.jpg",
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"link": "/radio/program/planet-money",
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/planet-money/id290783428?mt=2",
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},
"politicalbreakdown": {
"id": "politicalbreakdown",
"title": "Political Breakdown",
"tagline": "Politics from a personal perspective",
"info": "Political Breakdown is a new series that explores the political intersection of California and the nation. Each week hosts Scott Shafer and Marisa Lagos are joined with a new special guest to unpack politics -- with personality — and offer an insider’s glimpse at how politics happens.",
"airtime": "THU 6:30pm-7pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Political-Breakdown-2024-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
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"order": 5
},
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"amazon": "https://music.amazon.com/podcasts/e0c2d153-ad36-4c8d-901d-f1da6a724824/political-breakdown",
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"possible": {
"id": "possible",
"title": "Possible",
"info": "Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.",
"airtime": "SUN 2pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Possible-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.possible.fm/",
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"source": "Possible"
},
"link": "/radio/program/possible",
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"spotify": "https://open.spotify.com/show/730YpdUSNlMyPQwNnyjp4k"
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},
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