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"disqusTitle": "In the Queer Kitchen: A Conversation with John Birdsall, Preeti Mistry, and Nik Sharma",
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"content": "\u003cp>What is a queer kitchen? Is there a recognizable queer style or sensibility that can be expressed through food? Can non-gay chefs queer their food? As the rainbow-stickered crowds in booty shorts and body glitter surged through Dolores Park and Civic Center on a sunny Saturday afternoon, a rather more sedate audience of thirty gathered upstairs at Williams Sonoma's flagship store in Union Square to listen to a discussion of these questions and more. The conversation was the first San Francisco event organized by the New York-based gay men's food magazine \u003ca href=\"http://www.jarrymag.com\" target=\"_blank\">Jarry\u003c/a>, a twice-yearly print publication that launched (thanks in part to a Kickstarter campaign) in the fall of 2015. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_110367\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent4-new.jpg\" alt=\"Jarry issue 2 and tote bags.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" class=\"size-full wp-image-110367\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent4-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent4-new-400x400.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent4-new-800x800.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent4-new-768x768.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent4-new-1440x1440.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent4-new-1180x1180.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent4-new-960x960.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent4-new-150x150.jpg 150w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent4-new-32x32.jpg 32w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent4-new-50x50.jpg 50w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent4-new-64x64.jpg 64w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent4-new-96x96.jpg 96w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent4-new-128x128.jpg 128w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jarry issue 2 and tote bags. \u003ccite>(Stephanie Rosenbaum Klassen)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>According to moderator (and Jarry co-founder/editor) Lukas Volger, the idea of the \"queer kitchen\"--as opposed to \"gay food\"--seemed both more inclusive and more contemporary, at a time when few, if any, restaurants would position themselves as catering to an exclusively gay clientele. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Writer and former chef John Birdsall is a firm believer that there is a queer aesthetic in food, with its roots in the work of Craig Claiborne, James Beard, and ex-pat Richard Olney, a trifecta of closeted gay men whose sensibilities and far-reaching influence changed the way Americans cooked. It's a legacy that Birdsall thinks more people--especially straight chefs--should acknowledge. \"I love \u003ca href=\"http://luckypeach.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Lucky Peach\u003c/a> [magazine],\" said Birdsall. \"But the first couple of issues were really reflective of that male, straight, bro-y chef culture.\" It was this narrowly macho focus that led Birdsall to set the record less than straight with \u003ca href=\"http://luckypeach.com/america-your-food-is-so-gay/\" target=\"_blank\">America, Your Food is So Gay\u003c/a>, which won a James Beard Journalism Award in 2014. Birdsall, now 56, remembers he and a boyfriend reading aloud from Olney's writings, feeling like they were getting a glimpse of a secret gay world, one that was, by necessity, elusive, both cooly cerebral yet infused with the sensuality of Olney's adopted home in the south of France, its brilliant light, its hillsides of thyme and lavender. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But what was coded and discrete before was, by the 1990s, exploding into \u003cem>we're here, we're queer, get used to it\u003c/em>, especially in San Francisco. When Preeti Mistry, co-owner and head chef of Oakland's \u003ca href=\"http://www.juhubeachclub.com\" target=\"_blank\">Juhu Beach Club\u003c/a>, first came to San Francisco in 1996, she found out lesbians like Elizabeth Falkner, Traci Des Jardins, and Elka Gilmore putting their stamp on the evolving California cuisine of the time. Mistry, who originally wanted to be a filmmaker, was inspired by these chefs' creativity and fearlessness, so much so that she left a job in the \"gay bubble\" of \u003ca href=\"http://frameline.org/\" target=\"_blank\">Frameline\u003c/a> to start training in fine dining at Claridge's in London. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_110361\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 3024px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent6-new.jpg\" alt=\"Writer John Birdsall, photographer Nik Sharma, restauranteur/chef Preeti Mistry, in conversation with Jarry editor Lukas Volger.\" width=\"3024\" height=\"3024\" class=\"size-full wp-image-110361\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent6-new.jpg 3024w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent6-new-400x400.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent6-new-800x800.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent6-new-768x768.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent6-new-1440x1440.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent6-new-1180x1180.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent6-new-960x960.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent6-new-150x150.jpg 150w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent6-new-32x32.jpg 32w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent6-new-50x50.jpg 50w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent6-new-64x64.jpg 64w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent6-new-96x96.jpg 96w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent6-new-128x128.jpg 128w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 3024px) 100vw, 3024px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Writer John Birdsall, photographer Nik Sharma, restauranteur/chef Preeti Mistry, in conversation with Jarry editor Lukas Volger. \u003ccite>(Stephanie Rosenbaum Klassen)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"These women were my heroes,\" she said. It wasn't just that these women were out, at a time when restaurant kitchens could still be tough places for women, gay or straight. It was that they were changing the game, on and off the plate. \"At Citizen Cake, Elizabeth changed the presentation of pastry,\" said Mistry. Her cakes were architectural, pierced with sugar shards or kitschily frosted shag-carpet deep. They were disruptive, deconstructed, even a little bit dangerous. (It's no surprise that her first cookbook, written in the form of a comic book, was titled \"Demolition Desserts.\") Mistry remembers a dinner with Jim Dodge, then a well-known pastry chef trained in a more classical style. \"When Elizabeth's dessert came out, he said 'What is this crap?'\" It was a clash of sensibilities, his gay, hers queer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For photographer Nik Sharma of the blog \u003ca href=\"http://www.abrowntable.com/\" target=\"_blank\">A Brown Table\u003c/a>, and the youngest of the group, coming out wasn't an issue, but finding a gay social circle when he first started medical school wasn't easy. A chat with a gay professor led to an invitation to the med school's \"secret gay potluck\"--secret not out of fear, but simply because \"they didn't want any straights to come,\" said Sharma. Formerly a medical researcher, now a professional photographer specializing in food, he still treasures the friendships he made over those dinners. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_110362\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2499px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent5.jpg\" alt=\"Photographer Nik Sharma and writer John Birdsall, with portrait of Sharma by Patrick Byrnes from Jarry issue 2.\" width=\"2499\" height=\"2846\" class=\"size-full wp-image-110362\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent5.jpg 2499w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent5-400x456.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent5-800x911.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent5-768x875.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent5-1440x1640.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent5-1180x1344.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent5-960x1093.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2499px) 100vw, 2499px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Photographer Nik Sharma and writer John Birdsall, with portrait of Sharma by Patrick Byrnes from Jarry issue 2. \u003ccite>(Stephanie Rosenbaum Klassen)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Sharma, like Mistry, is of Indian heritage. Calling out his brownness in the title of his blog--and often photographing his own hands as he made pastry or squeezed oranges--was a deliberate choice, compelled by a wish to make visual space for his immigrant perspective and culture within a blogging world that was overwhelming white and female. His work has paid off: next week, he'll have a new column, A Brown Kitchen, in the San Francisco Chronicle, and his blog has won numerous awards for photography. Sharma was also the subject of a \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/arts/2016/01/08/discover-the-hands-behind-nik-sharmas-food-photography/\" target=\"_blank\">short video\u003c/a> on KQED back in January.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Birdsall, who won a second James Beard Award for \u003ca href=\"https://medium.com/jarry-mag/straight-up-passing-1fab62a5536c#.a3mm0vlqj\" target=\"_blank\">Straight Up Passing\u003c/a>, an article about gay chefs in Jarry's first issue, sees queer cooking as an act of anti-normative transgression and resistance. It's not a concept that all the chefs he spoke to agreed with--in fact, he was stonewalled by several high-profile out chefs, who bristled at being categorized as \"gay chefs,\" much in the way that many artists resist being defined as \"women writers\" or \"female musicians,\" or felt that their sexuality had nothing to do with how they cooked. Or was it just that these chefs--white and \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cisgender\" target=\"_blank\">cisgender\u003c/a>, as Mistry points out--still had more to lose by promoting a higher profile gay identity, even in these more equal times? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Birdsall feels that such transgressive attitudes in the kitchen can be adopted even by non-gay chefs. He points to the boundary-breaking of \u003ca href=\"https://missionchinesefood.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Mission Chinese Food,\u003c/a> as well as the \"sensitive, fluid, thoughtful\" cooking of \u003ca href=\"http://dpgrp.co/\" target=\"_blank\">Daniel Patterson.\u003c/a> Reaching back to the work of Jeremiah Tower (who was mentored by both Beard and Olney), Birdsall sees Tower's shaping of California cuisine in the 1980s as \"a repudiation of the more formal cuisine that came before, as an expression of intense pleasurability, [creating] these very high-level, pleasurable experiences in both cooking and eating.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I'm not interested in forcing something that's not natural, in over-manipulation\" of ingredients or presentation, said Mistry. \"We're not distilling things; it's fire and food and spices.\" And while she does have a underlying aesthetic for plating (\"It's not a trough!\"), she doesn't see the need to torture her food with stylists' tweezers, either. More important to Mistry is creating a workplace, and a dining room, that's diverse and welcoming in ways that restaurants haven't always been, both for diners and employees. Her goal is a place that's so diverse that no one group is on top with the power to belittle or harass others. The vulgar humor that's been long seen as a staple in restaurant kitchens has no place in hers. \"We make jokes and laugh all day long,\" said Mistry, but her employees learn fast that dumb dick jokes won't fly. \"We just shame and humiliate them if they try. Like, 'that's the best you come up with? Really?'\" Mistry said. \"They have to work harder than that.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As a butch woman of color, Mistry has experienced first-hand the stark contrast between how she and her wife, Juhu Beach Club co-owner Ann Nadeau, are treated in restaurants when they are and aren't recognized. If she's recognized from her stint on Top Chef and Anthony Bourdain's \u003ca href=\"http://sfist.com/2015/10/14/eat_exactly_as_anthony_bourdain_did.php\" target=\"_blank\">Parts Unknown\u003c/a> food and travel show, they get the industry hotshot treatment; if not, they've been ignored by bartenders and slighted by hostesses. \"When \u003ca href=\"http://blacklivesmatter.com/category/alicia-garza/\" target=\"_blank\">Alicia Garza\u003c/a>, a co-founder of the Black Lives Matter movement, comes in, we treat her like a rock star,\" Mistry said. Part of running her own restaurant is the freedom to speak out for causes and issues she and Nadeau feel strongly about, and to create a workplace that reflects the diversity of Oakland, where she and Nadeau work and live. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The tides are changing, both in race and gender,\" Mistry said. \"People are used to seeing brown people in the kitchen. We'd like to have an equal diversity in the front of the house.\" \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>What is a queer kitchen? Is there a recognizable queer style or sensibility that can be expressed through food? Can non-gay chefs queer their food? As the rainbow-stickered crowds in booty shorts and body glitter surged through Dolores Park and Civic Center on a sunny Saturday afternoon, a rather more sedate audience of thirty gathered upstairs at Williams Sonoma's flagship store in Union Square to listen to a discussion of these questions and more. The conversation was the first San Francisco event organized by the New York-based gay men's food magazine \u003ca href=\"http://www.jarrymag.com\" target=\"_blank\">Jarry\u003c/a>, a twice-yearly print publication that launched (thanks in part to a Kickstarter campaign) in the fall of 2015. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_110367\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent4-new.jpg\" alt=\"Jarry issue 2 and tote bags.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" class=\"size-full wp-image-110367\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent4-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent4-new-400x400.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent4-new-800x800.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent4-new-768x768.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent4-new-1440x1440.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent4-new-1180x1180.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent4-new-960x960.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent4-new-150x150.jpg 150w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent4-new-32x32.jpg 32w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent4-new-50x50.jpg 50w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent4-new-64x64.jpg 64w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent4-new-96x96.jpg 96w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent4-new-128x128.jpg 128w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jarry issue 2 and tote bags. \u003ccite>(Stephanie Rosenbaum Klassen)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>According to moderator (and Jarry co-founder/editor) Lukas Volger, the idea of the \"queer kitchen\"--as opposed to \"gay food\"--seemed both more inclusive and more contemporary, at a time when few, if any, restaurants would position themselves as catering to an exclusively gay clientele. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Writer and former chef John Birdsall is a firm believer that there is a queer aesthetic in food, with its roots in the work of Craig Claiborne, James Beard, and ex-pat Richard Olney, a trifecta of closeted gay men whose sensibilities and far-reaching influence changed the way Americans cooked. It's a legacy that Birdsall thinks more people--especially straight chefs--should acknowledge. \"I love \u003ca href=\"http://luckypeach.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Lucky Peach\u003c/a> [magazine],\" said Birdsall. \"But the first couple of issues were really reflective of that male, straight, bro-y chef culture.\" It was this narrowly macho focus that led Birdsall to set the record less than straight with \u003ca href=\"http://luckypeach.com/america-your-food-is-so-gay/\" target=\"_blank\">America, Your Food is So Gay\u003c/a>, which won a James Beard Journalism Award in 2014. Birdsall, now 56, remembers he and a boyfriend reading aloud from Olney's writings, feeling like they were getting a glimpse of a secret gay world, one that was, by necessity, elusive, both cooly cerebral yet infused with the sensuality of Olney's adopted home in the south of France, its brilliant light, its hillsides of thyme and lavender. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But what was coded and discrete before was, by the 1990s, exploding into \u003cem>we're here, we're queer, get used to it\u003c/em>, especially in San Francisco. When Preeti Mistry, co-owner and head chef of Oakland's \u003ca href=\"http://www.juhubeachclub.com\" target=\"_blank\">Juhu Beach Club\u003c/a>, first came to San Francisco in 1996, she found out lesbians like Elizabeth Falkner, Traci Des Jardins, and Elka Gilmore putting their stamp on the evolving California cuisine of the time. Mistry, who originally wanted to be a filmmaker, was inspired by these chefs' creativity and fearlessness, so much so that she left a job in the \"gay bubble\" of \u003ca href=\"http://frameline.org/\" target=\"_blank\">Frameline\u003c/a> to start training in fine dining at Claridge's in London. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_110361\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 3024px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent6-new.jpg\" alt=\"Writer John Birdsall, photographer Nik Sharma, restauranteur/chef Preeti Mistry, in conversation with Jarry editor Lukas Volger.\" width=\"3024\" height=\"3024\" class=\"size-full wp-image-110361\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent6-new.jpg 3024w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent6-new-400x400.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent6-new-800x800.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent6-new-768x768.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent6-new-1440x1440.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent6-new-1180x1180.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent6-new-960x960.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent6-new-150x150.jpg 150w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent6-new-32x32.jpg 32w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent6-new-50x50.jpg 50w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent6-new-64x64.jpg 64w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent6-new-96x96.jpg 96w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent6-new-128x128.jpg 128w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 3024px) 100vw, 3024px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Writer John Birdsall, photographer Nik Sharma, restauranteur/chef Preeti Mistry, in conversation with Jarry editor Lukas Volger. \u003ccite>(Stephanie Rosenbaum Klassen)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"These women were my heroes,\" she said. It wasn't just that these women were out, at a time when restaurant kitchens could still be tough places for women, gay or straight. It was that they were changing the game, on and off the plate. \"At Citizen Cake, Elizabeth changed the presentation of pastry,\" said Mistry. Her cakes were architectural, pierced with sugar shards or kitschily frosted shag-carpet deep. They were disruptive, deconstructed, even a little bit dangerous. (It's no surprise that her first cookbook, written in the form of a comic book, was titled \"Demolition Desserts.\") Mistry remembers a dinner with Jim Dodge, then a well-known pastry chef trained in a more classical style. \"When Elizabeth's dessert came out, he said 'What is this crap?'\" It was a clash of sensibilities, his gay, hers queer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For photographer Nik Sharma of the blog \u003ca href=\"http://www.abrowntable.com/\" target=\"_blank\">A Brown Table\u003c/a>, and the youngest of the group, coming out wasn't an issue, but finding a gay social circle when he first started medical school wasn't easy. A chat with a gay professor led to an invitation to the med school's \"secret gay potluck\"--secret not out of fear, but simply because \"they didn't want any straights to come,\" said Sharma. Formerly a medical researcher, now a professional photographer specializing in food, he still treasures the friendships he made over those dinners. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_110362\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2499px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent5.jpg\" alt=\"Photographer Nik Sharma and writer John Birdsall, with portrait of Sharma by Patrick Byrnes from Jarry issue 2.\" width=\"2499\" height=\"2846\" class=\"size-full wp-image-110362\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent5.jpg 2499w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent5-400x456.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent5-800x911.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent5-768x875.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent5-1440x1640.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent5-1180x1344.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent5-960x1093.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2499px) 100vw, 2499px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Photographer Nik Sharma and writer John Birdsall, with portrait of Sharma by Patrick Byrnes from Jarry issue 2. \u003ccite>(Stephanie Rosenbaum Klassen)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Sharma, like Mistry, is of Indian heritage. Calling out his brownness in the title of his blog--and often photographing his own hands as he made pastry or squeezed oranges--was a deliberate choice, compelled by a wish to make visual space for his immigrant perspective and culture within a blogging world that was overwhelming white and female. His work has paid off: next week, he'll have a new column, A Brown Kitchen, in the San Francisco Chronicle, and his blog has won numerous awards for photography. Sharma was also the subject of a \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/arts/2016/01/08/discover-the-hands-behind-nik-sharmas-food-photography/\" target=\"_blank\">short video\u003c/a> on KQED back in January.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Birdsall, who won a second James Beard Award for \u003ca href=\"https://medium.com/jarry-mag/straight-up-passing-1fab62a5536c#.a3mm0vlqj\" target=\"_blank\">Straight Up Passing\u003c/a>, an article about gay chefs in Jarry's first issue, sees queer cooking as an act of anti-normative transgression and resistance. It's not a concept that all the chefs he spoke to agreed with--in fact, he was stonewalled by several high-profile out chefs, who bristled at being categorized as \"gay chefs,\" much in the way that many artists resist being defined as \"women writers\" or \"female musicians,\" or felt that their sexuality had nothing to do with how they cooked. Or was it just that these chefs--white and \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cisgender\" target=\"_blank\">cisgender\u003c/a>, as Mistry points out--still had more to lose by promoting a higher profile gay identity, even in these more equal times? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Birdsall feels that such transgressive attitudes in the kitchen can be adopted even by non-gay chefs. He points to the boundary-breaking of \u003ca href=\"https://missionchinesefood.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Mission Chinese Food,\u003c/a> as well as the \"sensitive, fluid, thoughtful\" cooking of \u003ca href=\"http://dpgrp.co/\" target=\"_blank\">Daniel Patterson.\u003c/a> Reaching back to the work of Jeremiah Tower (who was mentored by both Beard and Olney), Birdsall sees Tower's shaping of California cuisine in the 1980s as \"a repudiation of the more formal cuisine that came before, as an expression of intense pleasurability, [creating] these very high-level, pleasurable experiences in both cooking and eating.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I'm not interested in forcing something that's not natural, in over-manipulation\" of ingredients or presentation, said Mistry. \"We're not distilling things; it's fire and food and spices.\" And while she does have a underlying aesthetic for plating (\"It's not a trough!\"), she doesn't see the need to torture her food with stylists' tweezers, either. More important to Mistry is creating a workplace, and a dining room, that's diverse and welcoming in ways that restaurants haven't always been, both for diners and employees. Her goal is a place that's so diverse that no one group is on top with the power to belittle or harass others. The vulgar humor that's been long seen as a staple in restaurant kitchens has no place in hers. \"We make jokes and laugh all day long,\" said Mistry, but her employees learn fast that dumb dick jokes won't fly. \"We just shame and humiliate them if they try. Like, 'that's the best you come up with? Really?'\" Mistry said. \"They have to work harder than that.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As a butch woman of color, Mistry has experienced first-hand the stark contrast between how she and her wife, Juhu Beach Club co-owner Ann Nadeau, are treated in restaurants when they are and aren't recognized. If she's recognized from her stint on Top Chef and Anthony Bourdain's \u003ca href=\"http://sfist.com/2015/10/14/eat_exactly_as_anthony_bourdain_did.php\" target=\"_blank\">Parts Unknown\u003c/a> food and travel show, they get the industry hotshot treatment; if not, they've been ignored by bartenders and slighted by hostesses. \"When \u003ca href=\"http://blacklivesmatter.com/category/alicia-garza/\" target=\"_blank\">Alicia Garza\u003c/a>, a co-founder of the Black Lives Matter movement, comes in, we treat her like a rock star,\" Mistry said. Part of running her own restaurant is the freedom to speak out for causes and issues she and Nadeau feel strongly about, and to create a workplace that reflects the diversity of Oakland, where she and Nadeau work and live. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The tides are changing, both in race and gender,\" Mistry said. \"People are used to seeing brown people in the kitchen. We'd like to have an equal diversity in the front of the house.\" \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "A Map Of Where Your Food Originated May Surprise You",
"title": "A Map Of Where Your Food Originated May Surprise You",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_110016\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1665px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/southasiaproduce_enl-1cd2d50de93b85cecf7961f0ea1398d68a3d1d45.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/southasiaproduce_enl-1cd2d50de93b85cecf7961f0ea1398d68a3d1d45.jpg\" alt=\"A new study reveals the full extent of globalization in our food supply. The researchers put together a series of interactives that visualize the results. Here's a screen grab, which shows crops that originate in South Asia.\" width=\"1665\" height=\"767\" class=\"size-full wp-image-110016\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/southasiaproduce_enl-1cd2d50de93b85cecf7961f0ea1398d68a3d1d45.jpg 1665w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/southasiaproduce_enl-1cd2d50de93b85cecf7961f0ea1398d68a3d1d45-400x184.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/southasiaproduce_enl-1cd2d50de93b85cecf7961f0ea1398d68a3d1d45-800x369.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/southasiaproduce_enl-1cd2d50de93b85cecf7961f0ea1398d68a3d1d45-768x354.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/southasiaproduce_enl-1cd2d50de93b85cecf7961f0ea1398d68a3d1d45-1440x663.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/southasiaproduce_enl-1cd2d50de93b85cecf7961f0ea1398d68a3d1d45-1180x544.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/southasiaproduce_enl-1cd2d50de93b85cecf7961f0ea1398d68a3d1d45-960x442.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1665px) 100vw, 1665px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A new study reveals the full extent of globalization in our food supply. The researchers put together a series of interactives that visualize the results. Here's a screen grab, which shows crops that originate in South Asia. \u003ccite>(Screenshot from CIAT)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Some people may be dimly aware that Thailand's chilies and Italy's tomatoes — despite being central to their respective local cuisines – originated in South America. Now, for the first time, a new \u003ca href=\"http://rspb.royalsocietypublishing.org/content/283/1832/20160792\">study\u003c/a> reveals the full extent of globalization in our food supply. More than two-thirds of the crops that underpin national diets originally came from somewhere else — often far away. And that trend has accelerated over the past 50 years.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Colin Khoury, a plant scientist at the International Center for Tropical Agriculture (known by its Spanish acronym CIAT) and the U.S. Department of Agriculture, is the study's lead researcher. Khoury tells The Salt that \"the numbers affirm what we have long known — that our entire food system is completely global.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2014/03/03/285335070/in-the-new-globalized-diet-wheat-soy-and-palm-oil-rule\">Previous work\u003c/a> by the same authors had shown that national diets have adopted new crops and become more and more globally alike in recent decades. The new study shows that those crops are mainly foreign.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The idea that crop plants have centers of origin, where they were originally domesticated, goes back to the 1920s and the great Russian plant explorer Nikolai Vavilov. He reasoned that the region where a crop had been domesticated would be marked by the greatest diversity of that crop, because farmers there would have been selecting different types for the longest time. Diversity, along with the presence of that crop's wild relatives, marked the center of origin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Fertile Crescent, with its profusion of wild grasses related to wheat and barley, is the primary center of diversity for those cereals. Thai chilies come originally from Central America and tropical South America, while Italian tomatoes come from the Andes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Khoury and his colleagues extended Vavilov's methods to look for the origins of 151 different crops across 23 geographical regions. They then examined national statistics for diet and food production in 177 countries, covering 98.5 percent of the world's population.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"For each country, we could work out which crops contributed to calories, protein, fats and total weight of food — and whether they originated in that country's region or were foreign,\" Khoury says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_110017\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1280px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/f1.large_enl-126a11fa919aebf0d12f2bf7e7b0e80e2f5f6d61.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/f1.large_enl-126a11fa919aebf0d12f2bf7e7b0e80e2f5f6d61.jpg\" alt=\"The great Russian plant explorer Nikolai Vavilov reasoned that crops originated in the region of the world where they, and their wild relatives, show up in greatest diversity. This map plots the center of origin and primary region of diversity for 151 different crops. (Some crops, like wheat, have more than one primary region of diversity.)\" width=\"1280\" height=\"839\" class=\"size-full wp-image-110017\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/f1.large_enl-126a11fa919aebf0d12f2bf7e7b0e80e2f5f6d61.jpg 1280w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/f1.large_enl-126a11fa919aebf0d12f2bf7e7b0e80e2f5f6d61-400x262.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/f1.large_enl-126a11fa919aebf0d12f2bf7e7b0e80e2f5f6d61-800x524.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/f1.large_enl-126a11fa919aebf0d12f2bf7e7b0e80e2f5f6d61-768x503.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/f1.large_enl-126a11fa919aebf0d12f2bf7e7b0e80e2f5f6d61-1180x773.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/f1.large_enl-126a11fa919aebf0d12f2bf7e7b0e80e2f5f6d61-960x629.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1280px) 100vw, 1280px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The great Russian plant explorer Nikolai Vavilov reasoned that crops originated in the region of the world where they, and their wild relatives, show up in greatest diversity. This map plots the center of origin and primary region of diversity for 151 different crops. (Some crops, like wheat, have more than one primary region of diversity.) \u003ccite>(The Royal Society)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Separately, the researchers looked at what farmers were growing in each country and whether those crops were foreign in origin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Globally, foreign crops made up 69 percent of country food supplies and farm production.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Now we know just how much national diets and agricultural systems everywhere depend on crops that originated in other parts of the world,\" Khoury says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the United States, diet depends on crops from the Mediterranean and West Asia, like wheat, barley, chickpea, almonds and others. Meanwhile, the U.S. farm economy is centered on soybeans from East Asia and maize from Mexico and Central America, as well as wheat and other crops from the Mediterranean. The U.S. is itself the origin of sunflowers, which countries from Argentina to China grow and consume.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Paul Gepts, a plant breeder and professor at the University of California, Davis, who was not involved in the study, called the findings very important.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Professionals are aware of global interdependence, but this is not something most people have thought about,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>CIAT researchers have produced \u003ca href=\"http://blog.ciat.cgiar.org/origin-of-crops/\">an interactive graphic\u003c/a> that allows you to explore the results — Gepts says this could really help people understand where their food comes from. \"It shows up on the screen very nicely,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_110018\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 419px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/tropicalsouthamerica_enl-2eaa86a0b8df2277245644a5927e27a108fa4678.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/tropicalsouthamerica_enl-2eaa86a0b8df2277245644a5927e27a108fa4678.jpg\" alt=\"This screenshot of an interactive graphic shows that, on average, crops that originated in tropical South America contribute 821.6 calories daily to West African diets.\" width=\"419\" height=\"532\" class=\"size-full wp-image-110018\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/tropicalsouthamerica_enl-2eaa86a0b8df2277245644a5927e27a108fa4678.jpg 419w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/tropicalsouthamerica_enl-2eaa86a0b8df2277245644a5927e27a108fa4678-400x508.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 419px) 100vw, 419px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">This screenshot of an interactive graphic shows that, on average, crops that originated in tropical South America contribute 821.6 calories daily to West African diets. \u003ccite>(Screenshot from CIAT)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Regions far from centers of agricultural biodiversity — such as North America, northern Europe and Australia — are most dependent on foreign crops. By the same token, countries in regions of diversity that are still growing and eating their traditional staples — for example, South Asia and West Africa — were least dependent on foreign crops. But even countries like Bangladesh and Niger depend on foreign crops for one-fifth of the food they eat and grow. Tomatoes, chilies and onions (from West and Central Asia), for example, are important in both countries.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Furthermore, over the past 50 years, the world's dietary dependence on foreign crops has increased from around 63 percent to the current 69 percent. Khoury says this was \"a bit of a surprise.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Cultures adopt foreign crops very quickly after coming into contact with them,\" he says, pointing out that potatoes were being grown in Europe just 16 years after being discovered in the Andes. \"We've been connected globally for ages, and yet there's still change going on.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Crops grown for fats and oils have seen the greatest change: Brazil now grows soybeans from East Asia, and Malaysia and Indonesia grow oil palm from West Africa.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Global interdependence also extends to the future of crops — for example, to combat the threats of climate change and new pests and diseases. The genes needed to face those challenges are most likely to be found in the primary regions of diversity, but will be needed wherever those crops are grown.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That is a crucial point for Cary Fowler, former executive secretary of the Global Crop Diversity Trust and an author of the paper. He says the study presents scientifically rigorous evidence for interdependence within the global food system.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"That means we need to start behaving as if we are interdependent,\" Fowler said in an interview.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The International Treaty on Plant Genetic Resources for Food and Agriculture is supposed to ensure that countries can get hold of the plant diversity they need to develop new varieties so they can withstand future challenges. But most countries, Fowler says, are not providing the \"facilitated access\" promised by the treaty.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The problem is usually political, as countries ignore the shared access offered by the seed treaty (which about 120 countries have adopted) in an effort to keep any potential benefits to themselves.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For example, during the International Year of Quinoa in 2013, researchers \u003ca href=\"http://journal.frontiersin.org/article/10.3389/fpls.2016.00850/full\">attempted to compare\u003c/a> as many different varieties of the Andean grain as they could, to see which might be best in different environments. Of more than 3,000 different known varieties, the researchers could obtain only 21, and none of those came directly from genebanks in the countries of origin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Other researchers who conducted a \u003ca href=\"http://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s10722-013-0029-6\">deliberate test\u003c/a> of the treaty\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>genteelly concluded that, \"after nearly 10 years, 'facilitated access' is not straightforward.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fowler says that this kind of attitude undermines the good intentions expressed in the treaty: \"It's time for the International Treaty to be observed and enforced.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.jeremycherfas.net/about/\">Jeremy Cherfas\u003c/a> is a biologist and science journalist based in Rome.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cem>Copyright 2016 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "A new study reveals the full extent of globalization in our food supply. More than two-thirds of the crops that underpin national diets originally came from somewhere else — often far away.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_110016\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1665px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/southasiaproduce_enl-1cd2d50de93b85cecf7961f0ea1398d68a3d1d45.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/southasiaproduce_enl-1cd2d50de93b85cecf7961f0ea1398d68a3d1d45.jpg\" alt=\"A new study reveals the full extent of globalization in our food supply. The researchers put together a series of interactives that visualize the results. Here's a screen grab, which shows crops that originate in South Asia.\" width=\"1665\" height=\"767\" class=\"size-full wp-image-110016\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/southasiaproduce_enl-1cd2d50de93b85cecf7961f0ea1398d68a3d1d45.jpg 1665w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/southasiaproduce_enl-1cd2d50de93b85cecf7961f0ea1398d68a3d1d45-400x184.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/southasiaproduce_enl-1cd2d50de93b85cecf7961f0ea1398d68a3d1d45-800x369.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/southasiaproduce_enl-1cd2d50de93b85cecf7961f0ea1398d68a3d1d45-768x354.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/southasiaproduce_enl-1cd2d50de93b85cecf7961f0ea1398d68a3d1d45-1440x663.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/southasiaproduce_enl-1cd2d50de93b85cecf7961f0ea1398d68a3d1d45-1180x544.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/southasiaproduce_enl-1cd2d50de93b85cecf7961f0ea1398d68a3d1d45-960x442.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1665px) 100vw, 1665px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A new study reveals the full extent of globalization in our food supply. The researchers put together a series of interactives that visualize the results. Here's a screen grab, which shows crops that originate in South Asia. \u003ccite>(Screenshot from CIAT)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Some people may be dimly aware that Thailand's chilies and Italy's tomatoes — despite being central to their respective local cuisines – originated in South America. Now, for the first time, a new \u003ca href=\"http://rspb.royalsocietypublishing.org/content/283/1832/20160792\">study\u003c/a> reveals the full extent of globalization in our food supply. More than two-thirds of the crops that underpin national diets originally came from somewhere else — often far away. And that trend has accelerated over the past 50 years.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Colin Khoury, a plant scientist at the International Center for Tropical Agriculture (known by its Spanish acronym CIAT) and the U.S. Department of Agriculture, is the study's lead researcher. Khoury tells The Salt that \"the numbers affirm what we have long known — that our entire food system is completely global.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2014/03/03/285335070/in-the-new-globalized-diet-wheat-soy-and-palm-oil-rule\">Previous work\u003c/a> by the same authors had shown that national diets have adopted new crops and become more and more globally alike in recent decades. The new study shows that those crops are mainly foreign.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The idea that crop plants have centers of origin, where they were originally domesticated, goes back to the 1920s and the great Russian plant explorer Nikolai Vavilov. He reasoned that the region where a crop had been domesticated would be marked by the greatest diversity of that crop, because farmers there would have been selecting different types for the longest time. Diversity, along with the presence of that crop's wild relatives, marked the center of origin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Fertile Crescent, with its profusion of wild grasses related to wheat and barley, is the primary center of diversity for those cereals. Thai chilies come originally from Central America and tropical South America, while Italian tomatoes come from the Andes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Khoury and his colleagues extended Vavilov's methods to look for the origins of 151 different crops across 23 geographical regions. They then examined national statistics for diet and food production in 177 countries, covering 98.5 percent of the world's population.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"For each country, we could work out which crops contributed to calories, protein, fats and total weight of food — and whether they originated in that country's region or were foreign,\" Khoury says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_110017\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1280px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/f1.large_enl-126a11fa919aebf0d12f2bf7e7b0e80e2f5f6d61.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/f1.large_enl-126a11fa919aebf0d12f2bf7e7b0e80e2f5f6d61.jpg\" alt=\"The great Russian plant explorer Nikolai Vavilov reasoned that crops originated in the region of the world where they, and their wild relatives, show up in greatest diversity. This map plots the center of origin and primary region of diversity for 151 different crops. (Some crops, like wheat, have more than one primary region of diversity.)\" width=\"1280\" height=\"839\" class=\"size-full wp-image-110017\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/f1.large_enl-126a11fa919aebf0d12f2bf7e7b0e80e2f5f6d61.jpg 1280w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/f1.large_enl-126a11fa919aebf0d12f2bf7e7b0e80e2f5f6d61-400x262.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/f1.large_enl-126a11fa919aebf0d12f2bf7e7b0e80e2f5f6d61-800x524.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/f1.large_enl-126a11fa919aebf0d12f2bf7e7b0e80e2f5f6d61-768x503.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/f1.large_enl-126a11fa919aebf0d12f2bf7e7b0e80e2f5f6d61-1180x773.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/f1.large_enl-126a11fa919aebf0d12f2bf7e7b0e80e2f5f6d61-960x629.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1280px) 100vw, 1280px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The great Russian plant explorer Nikolai Vavilov reasoned that crops originated in the region of the world where they, and their wild relatives, show up in greatest diversity. This map plots the center of origin and primary region of diversity for 151 different crops. (Some crops, like wheat, have more than one primary region of diversity.) \u003ccite>(The Royal Society)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Separately, the researchers looked at what farmers were growing in each country and whether those crops were foreign in origin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Globally, foreign crops made up 69 percent of country food supplies and farm production.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Now we know just how much national diets and agricultural systems everywhere depend on crops that originated in other parts of the world,\" Khoury says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the United States, diet depends on crops from the Mediterranean and West Asia, like wheat, barley, chickpea, almonds and others. Meanwhile, the U.S. farm economy is centered on soybeans from East Asia and maize from Mexico and Central America, as well as wheat and other crops from the Mediterranean. The U.S. is itself the origin of sunflowers, which countries from Argentina to China grow and consume.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Paul Gepts, a plant breeder and professor at the University of California, Davis, who was not involved in the study, called the findings very important.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Professionals are aware of global interdependence, but this is not something most people have thought about,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>CIAT researchers have produced \u003ca href=\"http://blog.ciat.cgiar.org/origin-of-crops/\">an interactive graphic\u003c/a> that allows you to explore the results — Gepts says this could really help people understand where their food comes from. \"It shows up on the screen very nicely,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_110018\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 419px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/tropicalsouthamerica_enl-2eaa86a0b8df2277245644a5927e27a108fa4678.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/tropicalsouthamerica_enl-2eaa86a0b8df2277245644a5927e27a108fa4678.jpg\" alt=\"This screenshot of an interactive graphic shows that, on average, crops that originated in tropical South America contribute 821.6 calories daily to West African diets.\" width=\"419\" height=\"532\" class=\"size-full wp-image-110018\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/tropicalsouthamerica_enl-2eaa86a0b8df2277245644a5927e27a108fa4678.jpg 419w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/tropicalsouthamerica_enl-2eaa86a0b8df2277245644a5927e27a108fa4678-400x508.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 419px) 100vw, 419px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">This screenshot of an interactive graphic shows that, on average, crops that originated in tropical South America contribute 821.6 calories daily to West African diets. \u003ccite>(Screenshot from CIAT)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Regions far from centers of agricultural biodiversity — such as North America, northern Europe and Australia — are most dependent on foreign crops. By the same token, countries in regions of diversity that are still growing and eating their traditional staples — for example, South Asia and West Africa — were least dependent on foreign crops. But even countries like Bangladesh and Niger depend on foreign crops for one-fifth of the food they eat and grow. Tomatoes, chilies and onions (from West and Central Asia), for example, are important in both countries.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Furthermore, over the past 50 years, the world's dietary dependence on foreign crops has increased from around 63 percent to the current 69 percent. Khoury says this was \"a bit of a surprise.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Cultures adopt foreign crops very quickly after coming into contact with them,\" he says, pointing out that potatoes were being grown in Europe just 16 years after being discovered in the Andes. \"We've been connected globally for ages, and yet there's still change going on.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Crops grown for fats and oils have seen the greatest change: Brazil now grows soybeans from East Asia, and Malaysia and Indonesia grow oil palm from West Africa.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Global interdependence also extends to the future of crops — for example, to combat the threats of climate change and new pests and diseases. The genes needed to face those challenges are most likely to be found in the primary regions of diversity, but will be needed wherever those crops are grown.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That is a crucial point for Cary Fowler, former executive secretary of the Global Crop Diversity Trust and an author of the paper. He says the study presents scientifically rigorous evidence for interdependence within the global food system.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"That means we need to start behaving as if we are interdependent,\" Fowler said in an interview.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The International Treaty on Plant Genetic Resources for Food and Agriculture is supposed to ensure that countries can get hold of the plant diversity they need to develop new varieties so they can withstand future challenges. But most countries, Fowler says, are not providing the \"facilitated access\" promised by the treaty.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The problem is usually political, as countries ignore the shared access offered by the seed treaty (which about 120 countries have adopted) in an effort to keep any potential benefits to themselves.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For example, during the International Year of Quinoa in 2013, researchers \u003ca href=\"http://journal.frontiersin.org/article/10.3389/fpls.2016.00850/full\">attempted to compare\u003c/a> as many different varieties of the Andean grain as they could, to see which might be best in different environments. Of more than 3,000 different known varieties, the researchers could obtain only 21, and none of those came directly from genebanks in the countries of origin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Other researchers who conducted a \u003ca href=\"http://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s10722-013-0029-6\">deliberate test\u003c/a> of the treaty\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>genteelly concluded that, \"after nearly 10 years, 'facilitated access' is not straightforward.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fowler says that this kind of attitude undermines the good intentions expressed in the treaty: \"It's time for the International Treaty to be observed and enforced.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.jeremycherfas.net/about/\">Jeremy Cherfas\u003c/a> is a biologist and science journalist based in Rome.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cp>Celery, the mild-mannered straight man of the vegetable world, packs a puny six calories per stalk and — in my opinion — about as much flavor as a desk lamp. Yet despite its limitations, the fibrous plant has featured in Mediterranean and East Asian civilizations for thousands of years.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The paradox puzzled me enough that I called a bunch of specialists at the intersection of botany and anthropology to pick their brains. They shared their best guesses about how celery sneaked into our diets.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Celery is odd, right?\" says botanist \u003ca href=\"http://www.oeb.harvard.edu/faculty/faculty_oeb/davis-oeb.html\">Charles Davis\u003c/a> of Harvard University. \"Another thing that's always baffled me about umbellifers [the family to which celery belongs] is that most species are wickedly poisonous.\" Socrates famously died by consuming water hemlock, a member of that family.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wild celery is native to the Mediterranean area, according to Davis, though archaeological remains from Switzerland have suggested that humans were transporting celery seeds as early as 4,000 B.C. Another variety of celery called \"smallage\" was present in China as early as the 5th century. Strong aroma may have boosted the appeal of the varieties in the Mediterranean and Asia.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But celery enthusiasts of yore were probably not munching it for taste, according to \u003ca href=\"http://www.plantsciences.ucdavis.edu/quiros/quiros.htm\">Carlos Quiros\u003c/a>, a plant geneticist emeritus from the University of California, Davis. He says that people in Egypt, Rome and China used the wild plant medicinally for a slew of ailments, but \"usually for hangovers or as aphrodisiacs.\" (Lonely hearts beware: There's no medical proof that celery helps with either.) The Greeks and Romans favored wild celery's leaves to weave victory crowns for athletes, Quiros says, as did the Egyptians. In fact, archaeologists discovered a celery wreath in Tutankhamun's tomb.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Based on my conversations, it seems as though culinary celery cultivation probably began in the 1600s in Italy or France. Horticulturalist \u003ca href=\"http://hortsciences.tamu.edu/people/faculty-2/joe-masabni/\">Joe Masabni\u003c/a>, of Texas A&M University's extension school, speculates that Mediterranean flavors assisted celery's big break.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You saute anything with olive oil, and it tastes good,\" says Masabni, who thinks celery also might have served as a filler food, to \"beef up\" meals, as it were. \"In the old days, you take chicken and it feeds one person. But you take a chicken and add it to soup with lots of vegetables, and you can feed a whole family.\" Davis thinks that during this period, Europeans began selecting for crunchy, succulent stems, while the Chinese cultivated a leafier variety, which today features in soups and sautes as \"Chinese celery.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There's \u003ca href=\"http://www.kpl.gov/local-history/business/celery.aspx\">some debate\u003c/a> about which individual first grew celery in the United States, but we know cultivation began in Michigan in the late 1800s. The crop grew well in the state's mild summers, and Dutch immigrants in the area seized the opportunity to farm the vegetable for a celery-curious American market. Today the average American consumes six pounds of celery per year, UC Davis' Quiros says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Though detractors criticize the watery stalks for culinary blandness, celery does have some devotees.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I love celery. It's awesome,\" says Robin Willis, a librarian in Frederick, Md. \"I'm a big fan of foods that crunch, so celery is right up there. And you can dip it in stuff.\" She also calls celery the unsung hero of soups, infusing subtle — but critical — flavor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But like the Mona Lisa or the Hanging Gardens of Babylon, celery's flavor seems to defy description. When pressed to describe celery in musical terms, general manager of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.michigancelery.com/\">Michigan Celery Promotion Cooperative\u003c/a>, Gary Wruble, compared the vegetable to classic rock. \"I don't know why,\" he says. \"It's my favorite genre.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I'm actually a pretty big fan of celery,\" says ethnobotanist \u003ca href=\"https://ib.berkeley.edu/people/faculty/carlsont\">Thomas Carlson\u003c/a> of the University of California, Berkeley. He sings the praises of the vegetable's fibers, which he says aid digestion. He also tried to win me over to celery seed. \"In the past two weeks,\" says Carlson, \"I've had it in several meals, and it was quite tasty.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003cbr>\nCopyright 2016 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Celery, the mild-mannered straight man of the vegetable world, packs a puny six calories per stalk and — in my opinion — about as much flavor as a desk lamp. Yet despite its limitations, the fibrous plant has featured in Mediterranean and East Asian civilizations for thousands of years.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The paradox puzzled me enough that I called a bunch of specialists at the intersection of botany and anthropology to pick their brains. They shared their best guesses about how celery sneaked into our diets.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Celery is odd, right?\" says botanist \u003ca href=\"http://www.oeb.harvard.edu/faculty/faculty_oeb/davis-oeb.html\">Charles Davis\u003c/a> of Harvard University. \"Another thing that's always baffled me about umbellifers [the family to which celery belongs] is that most species are wickedly poisonous.\" Socrates famously died by consuming water hemlock, a member of that family.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wild celery is native to the Mediterranean area, according to Davis, though archaeological remains from Switzerland have suggested that humans were transporting celery seeds as early as 4,000 B.C. Another variety of celery called \"smallage\" was present in China as early as the 5th century. Strong aroma may have boosted the appeal of the varieties in the Mediterranean and Asia.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But celery enthusiasts of yore were probably not munching it for taste, according to \u003ca href=\"http://www.plantsciences.ucdavis.edu/quiros/quiros.htm\">Carlos Quiros\u003c/a>, a plant geneticist emeritus from the University of California, Davis. He says that people in Egypt, Rome and China used the wild plant medicinally for a slew of ailments, but \"usually for hangovers or as aphrodisiacs.\" (Lonely hearts beware: There's no medical proof that celery helps with either.) The Greeks and Romans favored wild celery's leaves to weave victory crowns for athletes, Quiros says, as did the Egyptians. In fact, archaeologists discovered a celery wreath in Tutankhamun's tomb.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Based on my conversations, it seems as though culinary celery cultivation probably began in the 1600s in Italy or France. Horticulturalist \u003ca href=\"http://hortsciences.tamu.edu/people/faculty-2/joe-masabni/\">Joe Masabni\u003c/a>, of Texas A&M University's extension school, speculates that Mediterranean flavors assisted celery's big break.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You saute anything with olive oil, and it tastes good,\" says Masabni, who thinks celery also might have served as a filler food, to \"beef up\" meals, as it were. \"In the old days, you take chicken and it feeds one person. But you take a chicken and add it to soup with lots of vegetables, and you can feed a whole family.\" Davis thinks that during this period, Europeans began selecting for crunchy, succulent stems, while the Chinese cultivated a leafier variety, which today features in soups and sautes as \"Chinese celery.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There's \u003ca href=\"http://www.kpl.gov/local-history/business/celery.aspx\">some debate\u003c/a> about which individual first grew celery in the United States, but we know cultivation began in Michigan in the late 1800s. The crop grew well in the state's mild summers, and Dutch immigrants in the area seized the opportunity to farm the vegetable for a celery-curious American market. Today the average American consumes six pounds of celery per year, UC Davis' Quiros says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Though detractors criticize the watery stalks for culinary blandness, celery does have some devotees.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I love celery. It's awesome,\" says Robin Willis, a librarian in Frederick, Md. \"I'm a big fan of foods that crunch, so celery is right up there. And you can dip it in stuff.\" She also calls celery the unsung hero of soups, infusing subtle — but critical — flavor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But like the Mona Lisa or the Hanging Gardens of Babylon, celery's flavor seems to defy description. When pressed to describe celery in musical terms, general manager of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.michigancelery.com/\">Michigan Celery Promotion Cooperative\u003c/a>, Gary Wruble, compared the vegetable to classic rock. \"I don't know why,\" he says. \"It's my favorite genre.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I'm actually a pretty big fan of celery,\" says ethnobotanist \u003ca href=\"https://ib.berkeley.edu/people/faculty/carlsont\">Thomas Carlson\u003c/a> of the University of California, Berkeley. He sings the praises of the vegetable's fibers, which he says aid digestion. He also tried to win me over to celery seed. \"In the past two weeks,\" says Carlson, \"I've had it in several meals, and it was quite tasty.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003cbr>\nCopyright 2016 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "The Judgment Of Paris: The Blind Taste Test That Decanted The Wine World",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the story on All Things Considered:\u003c/strong> \u003cbr>\nhttp://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/atc/2016/05/20160524_atc_forty_years_ago_the_judgment_of_paris_revolutionized_the_wine_industry.mp3\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was the tasting that revolutionized the wine world.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Forty years ago today, the crème de la crème of the French wine establishment sat in judgment for a blind tasting that pitted some of the finest wines in France against unknown California bottles. Only one journalist bothered to show up – the outcome was considered a foregone conclusion.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Obviously, the French wines were going to win,\" says journalist George Taber, who was then a correspondent for TIME magazine in Paris. He says everyone thought \"it's going to be a non-story.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Taber did show up — as a favor to the organizers. And he ended up getting the biggest story of his career: To everyone's amazement, the California wines – reds and whites — beat out their French competitors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It turned out to be the most important event, because it broke the myth that only in France could you make great wine. It opened the door for this phenomenon today of the globalization of wine,\" Taber says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Judgment of Paris, as that May 24, 1976, wine tasting has come to be known, began as a publicity stunt. Steven Spurrier, an Englishman who owned a wine shop in Paris, wanted to drum up business. So, prompted by Patricia Gallagher, his American associate, Spurrier decided to stage a competition that highlighted the new California wines they'd been hearing so much about.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Spurrier tapped nine of the most respected names in French gastronomy for the job. They included sommeliers from the best French restaurants in Paris, the head of a highly regarded French vineyard, and Odette Kahn, the editor of the influential \u003cem>Revue du vin de France\u003c/em> (The French Wine Review.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As the sole journalist present, Taber had a lot of access, and he had a list of the order of the wines being served during the tasting. The judges didn't. He watched as they swirled and spat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At one point, Taber says, a judge – Raymond Oliver, chef and owner of Le Grand Véfour, one of Paris' great restaurants — sampled a white. \"And then he smelled it, then he tasted it and he held it up again, [and] he said, \"Ah, back to France!\" Taber recalls.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_109710\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 897px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/jofp3_custom-ec02cff2c01f4008cb1f3dc2593ec7d50d71233b-s1500-c85.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-109710\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/jofp3_custom-ec02cff2c01f4008cb1f3dc2593ec7d50d71233b-s1500-c85.jpg\" alt=\"From left: Patricia Gallagher, who first proposed the tasting, wine merchant Steven Spurrier, and influential French wine editor Odette Kahn. After the results were announced, Kahn is said to have demanded her scorecard back. "She wanted to make sure that the world didn't know what her scores were," says George Taber, the only journalist present that day.\" width=\"897\" height=\"597\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/jofp3_custom-ec02cff2c01f4008cb1f3dc2593ec7d50d71233b-s1500-c85.jpg 897w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/jofp3_custom-ec02cff2c01f4008cb1f3dc2593ec7d50d71233b-s1500-c85-400x266.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/jofp3_custom-ec02cff2c01f4008cb1f3dc2593ec7d50d71233b-s1500-c85-800x532.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/jofp3_custom-ec02cff2c01f4008cb1f3dc2593ec7d50d71233b-s1500-c85-768x511.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 897px) 100vw, 897px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">From left: Patricia Gallagher, who first proposed the tasting, wine merchant Steven Spurrier, and influential French wine editor Odette Kahn. After the results were announced, Kahn is said to have demanded her scorecard back. \"She wanted to make sure that the world didn't know what her scores were,\" says George Taber, the only journalist present that day. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Bella Spurrier)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Except it was a Napa Valley Chardonnay. The judge didn't know that. \"But I knew,\" Taber says. And once he realized what was happening, Taber says, \"I thought, hey, maybe I got a story here.\" Decades later, he penned \u003cem>The Judgment of Paris\u003c/em>, an account of that day and its aftermath.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When the scores were tallied, the top honors went not to France's best vintners but to a California white and red – the 1973 Chardonnay from Chateau Montelena and the 1973 Cabernet Sauvignon from Stag's Leap Wine Cellars. (A bottle of each now resides at the Smithsonian's National Museum of American History.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Taber says the results shocked everyone. When it was over, Kahn unsuccessfully demanded her scorecard back – according to Taber, \"she wanted to make sure that the world didn't know what her scores were.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wine writer David White says the tasting was a major turning point for the wine industry. \"The 1976 judgment totally changed the game,\" says White, who writes the popular wine blog \u003ca href=\"http://www.terroirist.com/\">Terroirist\u003c/a> and is the author of the forthcoming book, \u003cem>But First, Champagne: A Modern Guide to the World's Favorite Wine\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While winemaker Robert Mondavi played a major role in making California the wine powerhouse it is today, the Paris tasting was equally influential, White says. As the late Jim Barrett, part owner of Napa Valley's Chateau Montelena, told Taber back in 1976, the results were \"not bad for kids from the sticks.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And it wasn't just California that was transformed. The results \"gave winemakers everywhere a reason to believe that they too could take on the greatest wines in the world,\" White says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the aftermath of the tasting, new vineyards bloomed around the U.S. (think Oregon, Washington and Virginia) and the world — from Argentina to Australia.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Judgment of Paris prompted the world's winemakers to start sharing and comparing in a way they hadn't done before, says Warren Winiarski, the Polish-American founder of Stag's Leap, whose Cabernet Sauvignon took top honors among the reds in Paris.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As a result, he said at a recent Smithsonian event in honor of that long-ago tasting, \"the wines of the world are better, the wines of France are better.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Which means the world's wine lovers were the real winners that day.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2016 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It turned out to be the most important event, because it broke the myth that only in France could you make great wine. It opened the door for this phenomenon today of the globalization of wine,\" Taber says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Judgment of Paris, as that May 24, 1976, wine tasting has come to be known, began as a publicity stunt. Steven Spurrier, an Englishman who owned a wine shop in Paris, wanted to drum up business. So, prompted by Patricia Gallagher, his American associate, Spurrier decided to stage a competition that highlighted the new California wines they'd been hearing so much about.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Spurrier tapped nine of the most respected names in French gastronomy for the job. They included sommeliers from the best French restaurants in Paris, the head of a highly regarded French vineyard, and Odette Kahn, the editor of the influential \u003cem>Revue du vin de France\u003c/em> (The French Wine Review.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As the sole journalist present, Taber had a lot of access, and he had a list of the order of the wines being served during the tasting. The judges didn't. He watched as they swirled and spat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At one point, Taber says, a judge – Raymond Oliver, chef and owner of Le Grand Véfour, one of Paris' great restaurants — sampled a white. \"And then he smelled it, then he tasted it and he held it up again, [and] he said, \"Ah, back to France!\" Taber recalls.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_109710\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 897px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/jofp3_custom-ec02cff2c01f4008cb1f3dc2593ec7d50d71233b-s1500-c85.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-109710\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/jofp3_custom-ec02cff2c01f4008cb1f3dc2593ec7d50d71233b-s1500-c85.jpg\" alt=\"From left: Patricia Gallagher, who first proposed the tasting, wine merchant Steven Spurrier, and influential French wine editor Odette Kahn. After the results were announced, Kahn is said to have demanded her scorecard back. "She wanted to make sure that the world didn't know what her scores were," says George Taber, the only journalist present that day.\" width=\"897\" height=\"597\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/jofp3_custom-ec02cff2c01f4008cb1f3dc2593ec7d50d71233b-s1500-c85.jpg 897w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/jofp3_custom-ec02cff2c01f4008cb1f3dc2593ec7d50d71233b-s1500-c85-400x266.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/jofp3_custom-ec02cff2c01f4008cb1f3dc2593ec7d50d71233b-s1500-c85-800x532.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/jofp3_custom-ec02cff2c01f4008cb1f3dc2593ec7d50d71233b-s1500-c85-768x511.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 897px) 100vw, 897px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">From left: Patricia Gallagher, who first proposed the tasting, wine merchant Steven Spurrier, and influential French wine editor Odette Kahn. After the results were announced, Kahn is said to have demanded her scorecard back. \"She wanted to make sure that the world didn't know what her scores were,\" says George Taber, the only journalist present that day. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Bella Spurrier)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Except it was a Napa Valley Chardonnay. The judge didn't know that. \"But I knew,\" Taber says. And once he realized what was happening, Taber says, \"I thought, hey, maybe I got a story here.\" Decades later, he penned \u003cem>The Judgment of Paris\u003c/em>, an account of that day and its aftermath.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When the scores were tallied, the top honors went not to France's best vintners but to a California white and red – the 1973 Chardonnay from Chateau Montelena and the 1973 Cabernet Sauvignon from Stag's Leap Wine Cellars. (A bottle of each now resides at the Smithsonian's National Museum of American History.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Taber says the results shocked everyone. When it was over, Kahn unsuccessfully demanded her scorecard back – according to Taber, \"she wanted to make sure that the world didn't know what her scores were.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wine writer David White says the tasting was a major turning point for the wine industry. \"The 1976 judgment totally changed the game,\" says White, who writes the popular wine blog \u003ca href=\"http://www.terroirist.com/\">Terroirist\u003c/a> and is the author of the forthcoming book, \u003cem>But First, Champagne: A Modern Guide to the World's Favorite Wine\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While winemaker Robert Mondavi played a major role in making California the wine powerhouse it is today, the Paris tasting was equally influential, White says. As the late Jim Barrett, part owner of Napa Valley's Chateau Montelena, told Taber back in 1976, the results were \"not bad for kids from the sticks.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And it wasn't just California that was transformed. The results \"gave winemakers everywhere a reason to believe that they too could take on the greatest wines in the world,\" White says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the aftermath of the tasting, new vineyards bloomed around the U.S. (think Oregon, Washington and Virginia) and the world — from Argentina to Australia.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Judgment of Paris prompted the world's winemakers to start sharing and comparing in a way they hadn't done before, says Warren Winiarski, the Polish-American founder of Stag's Leap, whose Cabernet Sauvignon took top honors among the reds in Paris.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As a result, he said at a recent Smithsonian event in honor of that long-ago tasting, \"the wines of the world are better, the wines of France are better.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Which means the world's wine lovers were the real winners that day.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2016 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Loathed By Farmers, Loved By Ancients: The Strange History Of Tiger Nuts",
"title": "Loathed By Farmers, Loved By Ancients: The Strange History Of Tiger Nuts",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>Take a look at some lawns this spring. You might see something that looks like a crown of thin leaves and spikey, yellow flowers shooting over the grass, particularly if you live in the South. If the stems are triangular, you've just found a sedge. Dig it up. If it's the right kind of sedge, clinging to the roots will be a few chewy, brown, marble-sized tubers called tiger nuts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The plant is called yellow nutsedge or \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://plants.usda.gov/core/profile?symbol=cyes\">Cyperus esculentus\u003c/a>\u003c/em>, and it's one of the absolute worst weeds in the world. It wreaks havoc on gardens and crops and causes millions of dollars of agricultural damage every year. But it's also been cultivated for millennia, and yellow nutsedge as a crop, medicinal plant and weed has a very long, strange history with humans.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Today, tiger nuts have been getting a fair amount of attention in health food aisles. The tubers are becoming popular among paleo dieters and lauded as a \"superfood.\" An organic foods press representative named Ludovica Vigliardi Paravia emailed me to say, \"what's nuts is that TigerNuts are finally making a comeback, emerging as the #1 HEALTHY REAL HUMAN FOOD! [sic]\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Real human food? I was intrigued. The company sent some here to NPR, where they arrived in desiccated form.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dried, the tubers resemble shriveled, mummified knuckles. That's somewhat fitting, because the earliest records of tiger nuts date back to ancient Egypt, where they were valuable and loved enough to be entombed and discovered with buried Egyptians from the 4th millennium B.C. to the 5th century A.D. In the tomb of Vizier Rekh-Mi-Re', a high-ranking ancient Egyptian official buried in the 15th century B.C., a wall painting shows workers shoveling heaps of the stuff while a scribe counts the amount.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-108961\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/rekhmire_tt100_cm_700_custom-9ab19b148b859eb4e78a2e2f47b312be0829fd6b-s1500-c85.jpg\" alt=\"rekhmire_tt100_cm_700_custom-9ab19b148b859eb4e78a2e2f47b312be0829fd6b-s1500-c85\" width=\"1500\" height=\"672\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/rekhmire_tt100_cm_700_custom-9ab19b148b859eb4e78a2e2f47b312be0829fd6b-s1500-c85.jpg 1500w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/rekhmire_tt100_cm_700_custom-9ab19b148b859eb4e78a2e2f47b312be0829fd6b-s1500-c85-400x179.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/rekhmire_tt100_cm_700_custom-9ab19b148b859eb4e78a2e2f47b312be0829fd6b-s1500-c85-800x358.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/rekhmire_tt100_cm_700_custom-9ab19b148b859eb4e78a2e2f47b312be0829fd6b-s1500-c85-768x344.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/rekhmire_tt100_cm_700_custom-9ab19b148b859eb4e78a2e2f47b312be0829fd6b-s1500-c85-1440x645.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/rekhmire_tt100_cm_700_custom-9ab19b148b859eb4e78a2e2f47b312be0829fd6b-s1500-c85-1180x529.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/rekhmire_tt100_cm_700_custom-9ab19b148b859eb4e78a2e2f47b312be0829fd6b-s1500-c85-960x430.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1500px) 100vw, 1500px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What records remain from antiquity suggest that tiger nuts were used medicinally and eaten as treats. The roasted, crushed tubers were eaten with honey, according to work by \u003ca href=\"http://www.huji.ac.il/dataj/controller/ihoker/MOP-STAFF_LINK?sno=614769&Save_t=\">Moshe Negbi\u003c/a>, a former botanist at the Hebrew University of Jerusalem. Theophrastus, an ancient Greek botanist, wrote about boiled, sweet tiger nuts in \u003ca href=\"https://archive.org/details/TheophrastiDeHi00Theo\">\u003cem>Historia Plantarus\u003c/em>\u003c/a>. By the 13th century, records from present-day Valencia, Spain, show that tubers were being used to create a drink called \u003cem>horchata de chufa\u003c/em>, \"\u003ca href=\"http://link.springer.com/article/10.1007%2FBF02866543\">an ancestor of the horchata drunk nowadays\u003c/a>,\" according to researchers at the Polytechnic University of Valencia.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But yellow nutsedge's reputation as a valued crop began turning in the 19th century. In the \u003cem>Manual of the Botany of Northern United States 6th ed.\u003c/em>, author Asa Gray wrote in 1889 that the plant was \"becoming a pest in cultivated ground.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There doesn't seem to be any record that ancient people saw yellow nutsedge as a weed, but it's certainly far better at destroying crops than being one, according to Michael Defelice, a retired weed scientist who's \u003ca href=\"http://www.wssajournals.org/doi/abs/10.1614/0890-037X(2002)016%5B0901%3AYNCELS%5D2.0.CO%3B2\">written\u003c/a> about the plant. In agricultural fields, yellow nutsedge can grow quickly and shade over other crops.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The plant just chokes up everything around it. It's really hard to kill,\" Defelice says. It's considered a noxious weed or pest almost everywhere it's found in the world, including its native range in Africa.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And tiger nut has never really enjoyed widespread popularity or fame in the same way other ancient Egyptian crops, like barley or emmer wheat, have. Defelice says that's because it's just not economical.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's not a great volume producer. You wouldn't get a lot of food per acre. That's why it remained a niche product,\" he says. \"In Egypt, there weren't lots of options in those ancient times. So they worked with what they had. I think a really telling feature is that they coated them in honey.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>People enjoy the taste, though. Presumably, people continued cultivating and eating tiger nuts all these thousands of years. They're still eaten in parts of Africa, and \u003cem>horchata de chufa\u003c/em> is still a refreshing treat in Valencia. Granola, smoothies and flours can all be made with tiger nuts as well. These are all being sold as part of an attempted tiger nut renaissance in the health food industry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It doesn't taste terrible. When we tried them at NPR, the greatest endorsement a staff member had for the dried, raw tiger nuts was a thoughtful, chewed over \"alright.\" The tuber has a light almond taste and smell, with a surprising crunch after being rehydrated. After a few seconds of hard chewing, the tiger nut falls apart into what feels like the frayed end of a rope in your mouth. It is extremely fibrous.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On the \u003ca href=\"http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/j.1541-4337.2012.00190.x/full\">nutrition\u003c/a> front, it does OK. Tiger nut has a mix of mostly unsaturated oils, like avocado oil. \"The tiger nut is between the tuber and the nut [in terms of nutrition],\" says José Ángel Pérez Alvarez, a researcher at \u003ca href=\"http://www.umh.es/?lang=EN\">Miguel Hernandez University of Elche\u003c/a> in Spain who studies tiger nuts. For instance, there's less protein than a typical nut but more than the typical tuber. There's more starch than the typical nut but less than the typical tuber.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Why or how health food companies seized on tiger nuts is somewhat unclear. Some scientists believe that certain pre-human hominids ate them as a part of their diet \u003ca href=\"http://journals.plos.org/plosone/article?id=10.1371/journal.pone.0084942\">2 million years ago\u003c/a>, particularly because modern baboons seem to enjoy them. That may have spurred popularity among paleo dieters. It's not really a \"superfood.\" But if you like the taste of faintly sweet, nutty things and making your jaws work for a snack, this might be the thing for you.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2016 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Take a look at some lawns this spring. You might see something that looks like a crown of thin leaves and spikey, yellow flowers shooting over the grass, particularly if you live in the South. If the stems are triangular, you've just found a sedge. Dig it up. If it's the right kind of sedge, clinging to the roots will be a few chewy, brown, marble-sized tubers called tiger nuts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The plant is called yellow nutsedge or \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://plants.usda.gov/core/profile?symbol=cyes\">Cyperus esculentus\u003c/a>\u003c/em>, and it's one of the absolute worst weeds in the world. It wreaks havoc on gardens and crops and causes millions of dollars of agricultural damage every year. But it's also been cultivated for millennia, and yellow nutsedge as a crop, medicinal plant and weed has a very long, strange history with humans.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Today, tiger nuts have been getting a fair amount of attention in health food aisles. The tubers are becoming popular among paleo dieters and lauded as a \"superfood.\" An organic foods press representative named Ludovica Vigliardi Paravia emailed me to say, \"what's nuts is that TigerNuts are finally making a comeback, emerging as the #1 HEALTHY REAL HUMAN FOOD! [sic]\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Real human food? I was intrigued. The company sent some here to NPR, where they arrived in desiccated form.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dried, the tubers resemble shriveled, mummified knuckles. That's somewhat fitting, because the earliest records of tiger nuts date back to ancient Egypt, where they were valuable and loved enough to be entombed and discovered with buried Egyptians from the 4th millennium B.C. to the 5th century A.D. In the tomb of Vizier Rekh-Mi-Re', a high-ranking ancient Egyptian official buried in the 15th century B.C., a wall painting shows workers shoveling heaps of the stuff while a scribe counts the amount.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-108961\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/rekhmire_tt100_cm_700_custom-9ab19b148b859eb4e78a2e2f47b312be0829fd6b-s1500-c85.jpg\" alt=\"rekhmire_tt100_cm_700_custom-9ab19b148b859eb4e78a2e2f47b312be0829fd6b-s1500-c85\" width=\"1500\" height=\"672\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/rekhmire_tt100_cm_700_custom-9ab19b148b859eb4e78a2e2f47b312be0829fd6b-s1500-c85.jpg 1500w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/rekhmire_tt100_cm_700_custom-9ab19b148b859eb4e78a2e2f47b312be0829fd6b-s1500-c85-400x179.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/rekhmire_tt100_cm_700_custom-9ab19b148b859eb4e78a2e2f47b312be0829fd6b-s1500-c85-800x358.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/rekhmire_tt100_cm_700_custom-9ab19b148b859eb4e78a2e2f47b312be0829fd6b-s1500-c85-768x344.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/rekhmire_tt100_cm_700_custom-9ab19b148b859eb4e78a2e2f47b312be0829fd6b-s1500-c85-1440x645.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/rekhmire_tt100_cm_700_custom-9ab19b148b859eb4e78a2e2f47b312be0829fd6b-s1500-c85-1180x529.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/rekhmire_tt100_cm_700_custom-9ab19b148b859eb4e78a2e2f47b312be0829fd6b-s1500-c85-960x430.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1500px) 100vw, 1500px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What records remain from antiquity suggest that tiger nuts were used medicinally and eaten as treats. The roasted, crushed tubers were eaten with honey, according to work by \u003ca href=\"http://www.huji.ac.il/dataj/controller/ihoker/MOP-STAFF_LINK?sno=614769&Save_t=\">Moshe Negbi\u003c/a>, a former botanist at the Hebrew University of Jerusalem. Theophrastus, an ancient Greek botanist, wrote about boiled, sweet tiger nuts in \u003ca href=\"https://archive.org/details/TheophrastiDeHi00Theo\">\u003cem>Historia Plantarus\u003c/em>\u003c/a>. By the 13th century, records from present-day Valencia, Spain, show that tubers were being used to create a drink called \u003cem>horchata de chufa\u003c/em>, \"\u003ca href=\"http://link.springer.com/article/10.1007%2FBF02866543\">an ancestor of the horchata drunk nowadays\u003c/a>,\" according to researchers at the Polytechnic University of Valencia.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But yellow nutsedge's reputation as a valued crop began turning in the 19th century. In the \u003cem>Manual of the Botany of Northern United States 6th ed.\u003c/em>, author Asa Gray wrote in 1889 that the plant was \"becoming a pest in cultivated ground.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There doesn't seem to be any record that ancient people saw yellow nutsedge as a weed, but it's certainly far better at destroying crops than being one, according to Michael Defelice, a retired weed scientist who's \u003ca href=\"http://www.wssajournals.org/doi/abs/10.1614/0890-037X(2002)016%5B0901%3AYNCELS%5D2.0.CO%3B2\">written\u003c/a> about the plant. In agricultural fields, yellow nutsedge can grow quickly and shade over other crops.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The plant just chokes up everything around it. It's really hard to kill,\" Defelice says. It's considered a noxious weed or pest almost everywhere it's found in the world, including its native range in Africa.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And tiger nut has never really enjoyed widespread popularity or fame in the same way other ancient Egyptian crops, like barley or emmer wheat, have. Defelice says that's because it's just not economical.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's not a great volume producer. You wouldn't get a lot of food per acre. That's why it remained a niche product,\" he says. \"In Egypt, there weren't lots of options in those ancient times. So they worked with what they had. I think a really telling feature is that they coated them in honey.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>People enjoy the taste, though. Presumably, people continued cultivating and eating tiger nuts all these thousands of years. They're still eaten in parts of Africa, and \u003cem>horchata de chufa\u003c/em> is still a refreshing treat in Valencia. Granola, smoothies and flours can all be made with tiger nuts as well. These are all being sold as part of an attempted tiger nut renaissance in the health food industry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It doesn't taste terrible. When we tried them at NPR, the greatest endorsement a staff member had for the dried, raw tiger nuts was a thoughtful, chewed over \"alright.\" The tuber has a light almond taste and smell, with a surprising crunch after being rehydrated. After a few seconds of hard chewing, the tiger nut falls apart into what feels like the frayed end of a rope in your mouth. It is extremely fibrous.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On the \u003ca href=\"http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/j.1541-4337.2012.00190.x/full\">nutrition\u003c/a> front, it does OK. Tiger nut has a mix of mostly unsaturated oils, like avocado oil. \"The tiger nut is between the tuber and the nut [in terms of nutrition],\" says José Ángel Pérez Alvarez, a researcher at \u003ca href=\"http://www.umh.es/?lang=EN\">Miguel Hernandez University of Elche\u003c/a> in Spain who studies tiger nuts. For instance, there's less protein than a typical nut but more than the typical tuber. There's more starch than the typical nut but less than the typical tuber.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Why or how health food companies seized on tiger nuts is somewhat unclear. Some scientists believe that certain pre-human hominids ate them as a part of their diet \u003ca href=\"http://journals.plos.org/plosone/article?id=10.1371/journal.pone.0084942\">2 million years ago\u003c/a>, particularly because modern baboons seem to enjoy them. That may have spurred popularity among paleo dieters. It's not really a \"superfood.\" But if you like the taste of faintly sweet, nutty things and making your jaws work for a snack, this might be the thing for you.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2016 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Better Late Than Never: Olympic Champion Greg Louganis Gets His Wheaties Box",
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"content": "\u003cp>In his competitive diving career, four-time Olympic diving gold medalist and five-time world champion Greg Louganis has been all over the world. Now he'll be in one place that's eluded him for years: your kitchen table.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wheaties announced that Louganis — who is \u003ca href=\"http://greglouganis.com/category/activist/\">openly gay and HIV-positive\u003c/a> — along with two other former Olympians, hurdler Edwin Moses and swimmer Janet Evans, will be featured on the cereal boxes as part of the revamped \"legends\" series.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a 2015 HBO documentary called \u003cem>Back on Board: Greg Louganis,\u003c/em> the diver said he understood that he wasn't featured on the Wheaties box during the prime of his career in the 1980s because he didn't fit the company's requirement of a \"wholesome image,\" as he was rumored to be gay. He came out publicly about his sexual identity and HIV-positive status in 1995.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Louganis says he is glad to finally be getting the recognition.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_108487\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/evans_custom-2121964c31ad0f4327bdd3db4373a7251c24b80f-400x618.jpg\" alt=\"Janet Evans is one of the greatest women's distance swimmers in U.S. history..\" width=\"400\" height=\"618\" class=\"size-thumbnail wp-image-108487\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/evans_custom-2121964c31ad0f4327bdd3db4373a7251c24b80f-400x618.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/evans_custom-2121964c31ad0f4327bdd3db4373a7251c24b80f-800x1236.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/evans_custom-2121964c31ad0f4327bdd3db4373a7251c24b80f-768x1187.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/evans_custom-2121964c31ad0f4327bdd3db4373a7251c24b80f-1440x2225.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/evans_custom-2121964c31ad0f4327bdd3db4373a7251c24b80f-1180x1823.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/evans_custom-2121964c31ad0f4327bdd3db4373a7251c24b80f-960x1483.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Janet Evans is one of the greatest women's distance swimmers in U.S. history.. \u003ccite>(Courtesy Of General Mills)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"[It's] so incredible to be honored with the likes of Edwin Moses — we were in our first Olympic games in 1976 together,\" Louganis told NPR's \u003cem>All Things Considered\u003c/em>. \"Janet Evans — we trained at Mission Viejo together — I watched her grow up.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Louganis became the only man to sweep the \u003ca href=\"http://www.olympic.org/gregory-louganis\">Olympic diving events\u003c/a> in back-to-back games when he won gold medals in both springboard and platform diving in the '84 and '88 Olympics. He's now a role model for other athletes including British Olympic diver Tom Daley, who came out as gay when he was around 20 years old.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I would have always wanted someone like him as a role model on the front of a cereal box,\" Daley told NPR's Ari Shapiro. \"He's a great model and forever will be the greatest diver to walk this earth.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>General Mills spokesman Mike Siemienas told NPR he couldn't provide an answer as to why Louganis wasn't on the box previously because no one who was involved in those decisions still worked at the company. Siemienas said a committee is responsible for determining which athletes are on the boxes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_108488\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/edwin_custom-b94f08722c2d731521067ca48d5a09ba94dad083-400x618.jpg\" alt=\"Edwin Moses was a three-time world champion in the 400-meter hurdles.\" width=\"400\" height=\"618\" class=\"size-thumbnail wp-image-108488\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/edwin_custom-b94f08722c2d731521067ca48d5a09ba94dad083-400x618.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/edwin_custom-b94f08722c2d731521067ca48d5a09ba94dad083-800x1236.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/edwin_custom-b94f08722c2d731521067ca48d5a09ba94dad083-768x1187.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/edwin_custom-b94f08722c2d731521067ca48d5a09ba94dad083-1440x2225.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/edwin_custom-b94f08722c2d731521067ca48d5a09ba94dad083-1180x1823.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/edwin_custom-b94f08722c2d731521067ca48d5a09ba94dad083-960x1483.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Edwin Moses was a three-time world champion in the 400-meter hurdles. \u003ccite>(Courtesy Of General Mills)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Wheaties unveiled the \"legends\" cereal boxes after the documentary detailing Louganis' athletic career and experiences as a gay man sparked a petition on \u003ca href=\"https://www.change.org/p/general-mills-put-greg-louganis-on-the-wheaties-box\">Change.org\u003c/a> to get the diver on the iconic Wheaties cereal box. Created by Julie Sondgerath, who had never met Louganis, the petition garnered nearly 45,000 signatures.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wheaties told NPR that the petition did not factor into the decision to put Louganis on a Wheaties box.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We were aware of the petition, as we see this all the time from fans wanting their favorite athlete on the box,\" Siemienas said. \"But appearing on a Wheaties box is not a popularity contest. Wheaties chooses athletes based on their achievements on and off their field of play.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As for Louganis, he says that he appreciates the honor more now than he would have in the 1980s.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Back in '95, I wasn't expected to live very long because we thought of HIV-AIDS as a death sentence, so to be here today, now 56, the box means so much more to me than it would have then because I feel like I'm being embraced as a whole person, not just for my athletic achievements.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2016 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>In his competitive diving career, four-time Olympic diving gold medalist and five-time world champion Greg Louganis has been all over the world. Now he'll be in one place that's eluded him for years: your kitchen table.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wheaties announced that Louganis — who is \u003ca href=\"http://greglouganis.com/category/activist/\">openly gay and HIV-positive\u003c/a> — along with two other former Olympians, hurdler Edwin Moses and swimmer Janet Evans, will be featured on the cereal boxes as part of the revamped \"legends\" series.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a 2015 HBO documentary called \u003cem>Back on Board: Greg Louganis,\u003c/em> the diver said he understood that he wasn't featured on the Wheaties box during the prime of his career in the 1980s because he didn't fit the company's requirement of a \"wholesome image,\" as he was rumored to be gay. He came out publicly about his sexual identity and HIV-positive status in 1995.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Louganis says he is glad to finally be getting the recognition.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_108487\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/evans_custom-2121964c31ad0f4327bdd3db4373a7251c24b80f-400x618.jpg\" alt=\"Janet Evans is one of the greatest women's distance swimmers in U.S. history..\" width=\"400\" height=\"618\" class=\"size-thumbnail wp-image-108487\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/evans_custom-2121964c31ad0f4327bdd3db4373a7251c24b80f-400x618.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/evans_custom-2121964c31ad0f4327bdd3db4373a7251c24b80f-800x1236.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/evans_custom-2121964c31ad0f4327bdd3db4373a7251c24b80f-768x1187.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/evans_custom-2121964c31ad0f4327bdd3db4373a7251c24b80f-1440x2225.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/evans_custom-2121964c31ad0f4327bdd3db4373a7251c24b80f-1180x1823.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/evans_custom-2121964c31ad0f4327bdd3db4373a7251c24b80f-960x1483.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Janet Evans is one of the greatest women's distance swimmers in U.S. history.. \u003ccite>(Courtesy Of General Mills)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"[It's] so incredible to be honored with the likes of Edwin Moses — we were in our first Olympic games in 1976 together,\" Louganis told NPR's \u003cem>All Things Considered\u003c/em>. \"Janet Evans — we trained at Mission Viejo together — I watched her grow up.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Louganis became the only man to sweep the \u003ca href=\"http://www.olympic.org/gregory-louganis\">Olympic diving events\u003c/a> in back-to-back games when he won gold medals in both springboard and platform diving in the '84 and '88 Olympics. He's now a role model for other athletes including British Olympic diver Tom Daley, who came out as gay when he was around 20 years old.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I would have always wanted someone like him as a role model on the front of a cereal box,\" Daley told NPR's Ari Shapiro. \"He's a great model and forever will be the greatest diver to walk this earth.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>General Mills spokesman Mike Siemienas told NPR he couldn't provide an answer as to why Louganis wasn't on the box previously because no one who was involved in those decisions still worked at the company. Siemienas said a committee is responsible for determining which athletes are on the boxes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_108488\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/edwin_custom-b94f08722c2d731521067ca48d5a09ba94dad083-400x618.jpg\" alt=\"Edwin Moses was a three-time world champion in the 400-meter hurdles.\" width=\"400\" height=\"618\" class=\"size-thumbnail wp-image-108488\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/edwin_custom-b94f08722c2d731521067ca48d5a09ba94dad083-400x618.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/edwin_custom-b94f08722c2d731521067ca48d5a09ba94dad083-800x1236.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/edwin_custom-b94f08722c2d731521067ca48d5a09ba94dad083-768x1187.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/edwin_custom-b94f08722c2d731521067ca48d5a09ba94dad083-1440x2225.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/edwin_custom-b94f08722c2d731521067ca48d5a09ba94dad083-1180x1823.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/edwin_custom-b94f08722c2d731521067ca48d5a09ba94dad083-960x1483.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Edwin Moses was a three-time world champion in the 400-meter hurdles. \u003ccite>(Courtesy Of General Mills)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Wheaties unveiled the \"legends\" cereal boxes after the documentary detailing Louganis' athletic career and experiences as a gay man sparked a petition on \u003ca href=\"https://www.change.org/p/general-mills-put-greg-louganis-on-the-wheaties-box\">Change.org\u003c/a> to get the diver on the iconic Wheaties cereal box. Created by Julie Sondgerath, who had never met Louganis, the petition garnered nearly 45,000 signatures.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wheaties told NPR that the petition did not factor into the decision to put Louganis on a Wheaties box.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We were aware of the petition, as we see this all the time from fans wanting their favorite athlete on the box,\" Siemienas said. \"But appearing on a Wheaties box is not a popularity contest. Wheaties chooses athletes based on their achievements on and off their field of play.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As for Louganis, he says that he appreciates the honor more now than he would have in the 1980s.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Back in '95, I wasn't expected to live very long because we thought of HIV-AIDS as a death sentence, so to be here today, now 56, the box means so much more to me than it would have then because I feel like I'm being embraced as a whole person, not just for my athletic achievements.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2016 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>Today is the day that the Guinness flows freely, tough brisket is transformed into tender corned beef, and we celebrate the Emerald Isle with humble cabbage. This holy trinity of meat, veg, and stout is the communion of St. Patrick's Day.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the history of that meal is relatively short, going back mainly to trade and immigration in the 18th and 19th centuries. Want to feast like St. Patrick would have celebrated more than 1,600 years ago? Let's party like it's 399.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>First, it's important to remember that Patrick wasn't born in Ireland, but in late 4th-century Britain, a period of great change. Anglo-Saxons from Germany, Denmark and The Netherlands were just moving in and beginning to push out the Mediterranean culture and cuisine of the Romans, who had occupied Britain for several centuries. That means a lot of different culinary influences from which to choose your menu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Patrick grew up in \"a high status, slave-owning Romano-British family,\" says \u003ca href=\"http://www.caitlingreen.org/\">Caitlin Green\u003c/a> of the University of Cambridge's Institute for Continuing Education. \"We would clearly expect him to have a very late Roman aristocratic lifestyle in his youth.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Think Mediterranean and French wines \"imported on a large scale,\" says Mark McKerracher, an archaeologist who blogs about Anglo-Saxon agriculture at \u003ca href=\"http://farmingunearthed.wordpress.com/\">Farming Unearthed\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Coriander and dill, McKerracher says, were other \"Roman innovations\" that gave dishes Mediterranean flair, as were peas and early relatives of the broad bean.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to Green, game was also moving onto the menu. \"Very little of this was eaten in the Romano-British period in general,\" she says. \"But there is evidence for a greater consumption of venison and wild birds in the very late/post-Roman era.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As a teenager, Patrick ended up in Ireland, one of the few European outposts Roman influence failed to reach. The popular story, told by Patrick in his \u003cem>Confessio\u003c/em>, is that he was stolen away by pirates and sold into slavery.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Cambridge University's \u003ca href=\"https://www.cam.ac.uk/research/news/was-st-patrick-a-slave-trading-roman-official-who-fled-to-ireland\">Roy Flechner\u003c/a> has suggested that Patrick was running away from the expectation that he would take over his father's official duties — and even that Patrick might have been the slave trader, rather than the slave. That changes whether we think he dined like an expat with a mild case of \u003cem>affluenza\u003c/em> or subsisted like an enslaved herdsman, as Patrick says in the \u003cem>Confessio.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Either way, without Roman influence, the cuisine of Ireland had its own style. \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UpbmCqLc0K8\">Regina Sexton\u003c/a>, food and culinary historian at University College Cork, tells us that the local diet was based largely on dairy and grain – especially oats. There were oatcakes, \"more like a hard bread or a cracker,\" and muesli-like mixtures of fruit, nuts, and oats. The thick cooking residue from oats might be made into sowens, \"a type of jelly.\" And oats were often cooked as oatmeals and gruels.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"As a slave,\" says Sexton, gruels \"would be what Patrick ate.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Barley was mostly for making ale; wheat was reserved for the highest status of bread. So, if you celebrate Patrick the wealthy rather than Patrick the poor, swap your usual soda bread for a soft wheat loaf and add to the bill of fare English salt, imported wine, and more meat than the average Irish native would have experienced.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Much of the evidence for what the ancient Irish ate comes from the Brehon Laws, which covered everything from land rents to beekeeping, as well as marriage, divorce, and trespassing --\"all the things you would think would be of concern to agricultural communities,\" says Sexton.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Not surprisingly, Irish stories and legends make for more interesting reading than Irish laws. Even though they were written mostly in the 8th to 12th centuries, many of these tales throw open a window onto the world of upper-class feasts and foods of an earlier time, explains Ger Killeen, professor of Irish and Celtic literature at Marylhurst University in Portland, Ore.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>The Vision of MacConglinne\u003c/em>, an anonymous parody of religious \"vision\" literature, imagines a castle made of food: \"New butter was the bridge ... bacon the palisade, the door was dry meat, the threshold was bare bread, and cheese curds the sides.\" And fine cream, fresh cheese and aged cheese served as mortar to hold up the house throughout.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But there are only two foods that Patrick actually records eating, says Killeen. In his \u003cem>Confessio\u003c/em> tale of escape from Ireland, Patrick and those who aided him \"manage to survive on wild honey\" and deer, thanks to Patrick's prayers for hunting success.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As history tells us, Patrick eventually returned to Ireland as a missionary and the religious figure we celebrate today. For a meal honoring his later years, Killeen suggests something simple: \"wheat bread, some kind of soft cheese, maybe flavored with garlic.\" And salmon, \"a highly esteemed foodstuff.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sexton seconds the salmon, along with other oily fish, and \"eels, trout, apples, hazelnuts, watercress, wild garlic.\" And cabbage.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's hard to get away from cabbage, no matter which era or which Patrick you choose to celebrate. But you can always call on his Roman past with a little coriander and dill in the dressing. And whether you swap your stout for a light barley ale or a glass of red Italian Cesanese, trade the corned beef for some estimable salmon, or make a castle out of Cashel blue cheese, Ireland's signature brassica will be at home on any of these menus honoring Ireland's national saint.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Anne Bramley is an independent scholar who is the author of Eat Feed Autumn Winter. She writes the \u003ca href=\"http://www.thekitchn.com/the-art-of-fondue-228779\">Food and Ritual column\u003c/a> at The Kitchn.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2016 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Today is the day that the Guinness flows freely, tough brisket is transformed into tender corned beef, and we celebrate the Emerald Isle with humble cabbage. This holy trinity of meat, veg, and stout is the communion of St. Patrick's Day.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the history of that meal is relatively short, going back mainly to trade and immigration in the 18th and 19th centuries. Want to feast like St. Patrick would have celebrated more than 1,600 years ago? Let's party like it's 399.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>First, it's important to remember that Patrick wasn't born in Ireland, but in late 4th-century Britain, a period of great change. Anglo-Saxons from Germany, Denmark and The Netherlands were just moving in and beginning to push out the Mediterranean culture and cuisine of the Romans, who had occupied Britain for several centuries. That means a lot of different culinary influences from which to choose your menu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Patrick grew up in \"a high status, slave-owning Romano-British family,\" says \u003ca href=\"http://www.caitlingreen.org/\">Caitlin Green\u003c/a> of the University of Cambridge's Institute for Continuing Education. \"We would clearly expect him to have a very late Roman aristocratic lifestyle in his youth.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Think Mediterranean and French wines \"imported on a large scale,\" says Mark McKerracher, an archaeologist who blogs about Anglo-Saxon agriculture at \u003ca href=\"http://farmingunearthed.wordpress.com/\">Farming Unearthed\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Coriander and dill, McKerracher says, were other \"Roman innovations\" that gave dishes Mediterranean flair, as were peas and early relatives of the broad bean.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to Green, game was also moving onto the menu. \"Very little of this was eaten in the Romano-British period in general,\" she says. \"But there is evidence for a greater consumption of venison and wild birds in the very late/post-Roman era.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As a teenager, Patrick ended up in Ireland, one of the few European outposts Roman influence failed to reach. The popular story, told by Patrick in his \u003cem>Confessio\u003c/em>, is that he was stolen away by pirates and sold into slavery.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Cambridge University's \u003ca href=\"https://www.cam.ac.uk/research/news/was-st-patrick-a-slave-trading-roman-official-who-fled-to-ireland\">Roy Flechner\u003c/a> has suggested that Patrick was running away from the expectation that he would take over his father's official duties — and even that Patrick might have been the slave trader, rather than the slave. That changes whether we think he dined like an expat with a mild case of \u003cem>affluenza\u003c/em> or subsisted like an enslaved herdsman, as Patrick says in the \u003cem>Confessio.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Either way, without Roman influence, the cuisine of Ireland had its own style. \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UpbmCqLc0K8\">Regina Sexton\u003c/a>, food and culinary historian at University College Cork, tells us that the local diet was based largely on dairy and grain – especially oats. There were oatcakes, \"more like a hard bread or a cracker,\" and muesli-like mixtures of fruit, nuts, and oats. The thick cooking residue from oats might be made into sowens, \"a type of jelly.\" And oats were often cooked as oatmeals and gruels.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"As a slave,\" says Sexton, gruels \"would be what Patrick ate.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Barley was mostly for making ale; wheat was reserved for the highest status of bread. So, if you celebrate Patrick the wealthy rather than Patrick the poor, swap your usual soda bread for a soft wheat loaf and add to the bill of fare English salt, imported wine, and more meat than the average Irish native would have experienced.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Much of the evidence for what the ancient Irish ate comes from the Brehon Laws, which covered everything from land rents to beekeeping, as well as marriage, divorce, and trespassing --\"all the things you would think would be of concern to agricultural communities,\" says Sexton.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Not surprisingly, Irish stories and legends make for more interesting reading than Irish laws. Even though they were written mostly in the 8th to 12th centuries, many of these tales throw open a window onto the world of upper-class feasts and foods of an earlier time, explains Ger Killeen, professor of Irish and Celtic literature at Marylhurst University in Portland, Ore.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>The Vision of MacConglinne\u003c/em>, an anonymous parody of religious \"vision\" literature, imagines a castle made of food: \"New butter was the bridge ... bacon the palisade, the door was dry meat, the threshold was bare bread, and cheese curds the sides.\" And fine cream, fresh cheese and aged cheese served as mortar to hold up the house throughout.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But there are only two foods that Patrick actually records eating, says Killeen. In his \u003cem>Confessio\u003c/em> tale of escape from Ireland, Patrick and those who aided him \"manage to survive on wild honey\" and deer, thanks to Patrick's prayers for hunting success.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As history tells us, Patrick eventually returned to Ireland as a missionary and the religious figure we celebrate today. For a meal honoring his later years, Killeen suggests something simple: \"wheat bread, some kind of soft cheese, maybe flavored with garlic.\" And salmon, \"a highly esteemed foodstuff.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sexton seconds the salmon, along with other oily fish, and \"eels, trout, apples, hazelnuts, watercress, wild garlic.\" And cabbage.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's hard to get away from cabbage, no matter which era or which Patrick you choose to celebrate. But you can always call on his Roman past with a little coriander and dill in the dressing. And whether you swap your stout for a light barley ale or a glass of red Italian Cesanese, trade the corned beef for some estimable salmon, or make a castle out of Cashel blue cheese, Ireland's signature brassica will be at home on any of these menus honoring Ireland's national saint.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Anne Bramley is an independent scholar who is the author of Eat Feed Autumn Winter. She writes the \u003ca href=\"http://www.thekitchn.com/the-art-of-fondue-228779\">Food and Ritual column\u003c/a> at The Kitchn.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2016 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Celebrating Bay Area Women Chefs on International Women's Day",
"title": "Celebrating Bay Area Women Chefs on International Women's Day",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>Women chefs have long shaped the food scene in the Bay Area. It's hard to imagine our current vibrant, multicultural, and ever-evolving restaurant landscape without the contributions of women in the industry, to the point where it can seem strange even to call out such talented chefs based solely on their gender. But success in this profession comes from teamwork, and the Bay Area's history of supporting strong, creative women in the kitchen--as well as trend-shaping culinary visionaries and activists--has laid the groundwork for generations of talented female chefs. (Thank you for the Edible Schoolyard, the White House gardens, the mesclun and goat cheese salads, \u003ca href=\"http://www.chezpanisse.com/about/alice-waters/\" target=\"_blank\">Alice Waters\u003c/a>!) \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_107487\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/alice-wheelbarrow560.jpg\" alt=\" Alice Waters at a fundraiser for the Edible Schoolyard Project.\" width=\"560\" height=\"375\" class=\"size-full wp-image-107487\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/alice-wheelbarrow560.jpg 560w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/alice-wheelbarrow560-400x268.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 560px) 100vw, 560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Alice Waters at a fundraiser for the Edible Schoolyard Project. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In honor of International Women's Day, let's raise a toast to pop-up sellers who make it to brick-and-mortar businesses, like Vanessa Chavez of \u003ca href=\"https://www.cholitalinda.com/\" target=\"_blank\">La Cholita Linda\u003c/a> in Oakland and Veronica Salazar of \u003ca href=\"http://huaracheloco.com/\" target=\"_blank\">El Huarache Loco\u003c/a> in Larkspur Landing. Let's do lunch with Liza Shaw of \u003ca href=\"http://www.merigansubshop.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Merigan Sub Shop\u003c/a>, who left A16's pizza and pasta behind to break down whole pigs, make her own hot pickles, and keep us in cheesesteaks and meatball subs, to say nothing of her superior vegetarian offerings, including eggplant parm, egg salad, and chickpea-fritter sandwiches so good we can (almost) forget about the porchetta-and-cracklings that's worth walking all the way down to 2nd and Brannan Streets, even when the Giants are out of town. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Already, we're lining up to check out newcomers like Mexico City's star chef \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2015/09/22/chef-gabriela-camaras-cala-brings-coastal-mexican-food-to-san-francisco/\" target=\"_blank\">Gabriela Cámara\u003c/a>, bringing the exciting flavors of her home city to \u003ca href=\"http://www.calarestaurant.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Cala\u003c/a> in San Francisco. And we're honoring pioneers like the 95-year-old\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.pbs.org/food/features/qa-cecilia-chiang-mandarin-restaurant/\" target=\"_blank\">Cecilia Chiang\u003c/a> who opened the elegant, groundbreaking Mandarin restaurant in 1961, when non-Asian diners typically equated Chinese food with fast, cheap Americanized Cantonese, and ran it, glamorously, for decades. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_107475\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/cecilia-chiang.jpg\" alt=\"Cecilia Chiang was recently honored at CAAMFeast 2016. \" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" class=\"size-full wp-image-107475\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/cecilia-chiang.jpg 1024w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/cecilia-chiang-400x267.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/cecilia-chiang-800x534.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/cecilia-chiang-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/cecilia-chiang-960x640.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cecilia Chiang was recently honored at \u003ca href=\"http://caamedia.org/blog/2016/03/07/celebrating-three-generations-of-food-and-innovation-at-caamfeast-2016/\" target=\"_blank\">CAAMFeast\u003c/a> 2016. \u003ccite>(Leanne Koh)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>We're remembering those whose work continues to influence the way we cook and eat now, from the late \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/12/03/in-memoriam-judy-rodgers-of-zuni-cafe/\" target=\"_blank\">Judy Rodgers\u003c/a> of Zuni Cafe to the unforgettable chef, Chinese scholar, and author \u003ca href=\"http://insidescoopsf.sfgate.com/blog/2011/05/26/reaching-for-the-moon-at-china-moon-cafe/\" target=\"_blank\">Barbara Tropp\u003c/a>, whose inventive China Moon Cafe, closed in 1996, would be right at home today. Tropp, who died in 2001, was part of a group of eight woman (including Square One chef and cookbook author Joyce Goldstein) who founded the professional organization \u003ca href=\"http://womenchefs.org/\" target=\"_blank\">Women Chefs and Restaurateurs\u003c/a> in 1993; WCR, as it's commonly known, remains a valuable resource for women in the industry today. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Working in restaurants is never an easy career path, whether you're scraping together the cooks' family meal or making sure payroll gets met. And while it's often the hot young players that get the press, the Bay Area has an impressive roster of women chefs who have successfully sustained long careers, often maintaining a single flagship restaurant for years or even decades while keeping things fresh with new additions. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, in honor of International Women's Day, here's a brief look at how some of the most notable women chefs in the Bay Area got their starts, what they're cooking and how they're making every day more delicious, while still doing the tough daily work of running restaurants, supporting local farmers and producers, creating jobs, and giving back. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_107480\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/traci-des-jardins-new-400x335.jpg\" alt=\"Traci des Jardins\" width=\"400\" height=\"335\" class=\"size-thumbnail wp-image-107480\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/traci-des-jardins-new-400x335.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/traci-des-jardins-new.jpg 525w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Traci des Jardins \u003ccite>(courtesy of Traci des Jardins)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Traci des Jardins\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nAs a former restaurant critic, I can remember the excitement that the young Traci des Jardins brought to Rubicon as its opening chef in 1994. I was far from her only fan; she won a James Beard Rising Star Chef award in 1995 for her work there. In 1997, she left to open the elegant \u003ca href=\"http://www.jardiniere.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Jardiniere \u003c/a>in Hayes Valley, a restaurant that's still going strong under her direction, nearly 20 years later. And while she made her name with fine dining, she's equally proud of the five dollar fish tacos at \u003ca href=\"http://www.mijitasf.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Mijita Cocina Mexicana\u003c/a> in the Ferry Building, which highlights the food of her Mexican-Californian heritage. Her menus are also in place at three eateries in the Presidio, including The Commissary, Transit, and Arguello, operated in partnership with the Presidio Trust and Bon Appetit Management Company. She's on the board of directors at \u003ca href=\"http://www.lacocinasf.org/\" target=\"_blank\">La Cocina\u003c/a>, the busy incubator for food businesses (with an emphasis on immigrant women) in the Mission. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_107477\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/nancyoakes-400x599.jpg\" alt=\"Nancy Oakes\" width=\"300\" class=\"size-thumbnail wp-image-107477\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/nancyoakes-400x599.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/nancyoakes.jpg 500w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nancy Oakes \u003ccite>(courtesy of Nancy Oakes)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Nancy Oakes\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nOakes opened \u003ca href=\"http://www.boulevardrestaurant.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Boulevard\u003c/a> at the foot of Mission Street in 1993; like Jardiniere, it remains a fixture on the fine dining scene, still serving its lively, vibrant California cuisine 23 years later. Oakes earned a James Beard Award for Best Chef: California in 2001; Boulevard won for Outstanding Restaurant in 2012, after eight consecutive nominations in the category. In 2010, Oakes partnered with two Boulevard chefs, Pam Mazzola and Kathy King, to open the contemporary American \u003ca href=\"http://www.prospectsf.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Prospect\u003c/a> in SoMa. With writer Laura Weiss, she and Mazzola published \"The Boulevard Cookbook\" with Ten Speed Press in 2005. She is on the board of Meals on Wheels, among many other philanthropic organizations. \u003cbr clear=\"all\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_107494\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/DominiqueCrenn-choco500.jpg\" alt=\"Dominique Crenn\" width=\"300\" height=\"418\" class=\"size-full wp-image-107494\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dominique Crenn \u003ccite>(Rien van Rijthoven)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Dominique Crenn\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\"Poetic Culinaria\" is the well-chosen subtitle for the Michelin double-starred \u003ca href=\"http://www.ateliercrenn.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Atelier Crenn\u003c/a>. Dominique Crenn opened this sleek, fog-gray Cow Hollow restaurant in 2011, serving exquisite, cerebral tasting menus, each a poetic meditation on a seasonal moment. Born and raised in France, Crenn has deep roots in the Bay Area, arriving in 1988 and working at the famous Stars restaurant with Jeremiah Tower and Mark Franz, then at Campton Place and 2223 Market, among others. She became Indonesia's first female executive chef at the InterContinental Hotel in Jakarta in 1997, where she worked for a year before returning to California to work in Manhattan Beach, Santa Monica, and San Francisco again, earning a Michelin star at Luce in the InterContinental Hotel in 2009. A longtime fan of Jessica Boncutter's quirky, well-loved Bar Jules in Hayes Valley, Crenn took over the space in 2015 when Boncutter decided to sell. She opened the Brittany-inspired \u003ca href=\"http://www.petitcrenn.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Petit Crenn\u003c/a>, featuring both a la carte dining and a five-course tasting menu, earning a 3 1/2 star review from the San Francisco Chronicle soon after. Last month, Crenn opened her latest venture, Antoinette Brasserie, a more classic French venue in the recently renovated Claremont Club & Spa in Berkeley; Justin Mauz is the executive chef. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_107479\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 250px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/tanyaholland.jpg\" alt=\"Tanya Holland\" width=\"250\" height=\"376\" class=\"size-full wp-image-107479\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tanya Holland \u003ccite>(courtesy of Tanya Holland)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Tanya Holland\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nSouthern born, French trained, Tanya Holland is a familiar face to many. The less fortunate may only know her from her many television appearances on the Food Network and the Today Show, among others. But for those lucky enough to live within eating distance of West Oakland, Holland is a frequent sight behind the line at \u003ca href=\"http://brownsugarkitchen.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Brown Sugar Kitchen\u003c/a>, her 8-year-old breakfast-and-lunch restaurant. (She closed her second Oakland restaurant, B-Side BBQ, a year ago.) Diners may find their way to this stretch of Mandela Parkway for the buttermilk-brined fried chicken, but they stay, from morning to the 3 pm closing time, for the blissfully, buttery-smooth smoked mashed yams, for the fall-off-the-bone pineapple-glazed ribs, the cornmeal waffles and the shrimp and grits. With writer Jan Newberry, Holland published \"Brown Sugar Kitchen: New-Style, Down Home Recipes from Sweet West Oakland,\" with Chronicle Books in 2014.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_107476\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/melissaperello-400x600.jpg\" alt=\"Melissa Perello\" width=\"400\" height=\"600\" class=\"size-thumbnail wp-image-107476\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/melissaperello-400x600.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/melissaperello.jpg 500w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Melissa Perello \u003ccite>(courtesy of Melissa Perello)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Melissa Perello\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nMelissa Perello has a clear penchant for creating warm, welcoming neighborhood dining spots. Located in two small storefronts, both in mostly-residential neighborhoods, Perello's restaurants, \u003ca href=\"http://www.frances-sf.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Frances\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.octavia-sf.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Octavia\u003c/a> both offer a fine dining chef's professionalism and attention to detail, but without formality or fuss. Perello got her start in San Francisco working in the kitchen at Aqua, followed by Charles Nob Hill, where she worked her way up to executive chef. She came on as executive chef at Fifth Floor, which gained a Michelin star under her direction, before leaving in 2007 to start planning for Frances, the Castro small-plates restaurant that she opened in 2009. She added Octavia last year, taking over the lower Pac Heights space previously occupied by Baker and Banker, Quince, and before that, The Meetinghouse (run by another woman chef, Joanne Karlinsky). Octavia's menu is a little bit Italian (ricotta \"malfatti\" dumplings with chard), a little bit French (shellfish bouillabaisse) and very West Coast (little gems salad with Dungeness crab and charred mandarin oranges). \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_107491\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/PreetiMistryHeadShot-400x600.jpg\" alt=\"Preeti Mistry\" width=\"300\" class=\"size-thumbnail wp-image-107491\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/PreetiMistryHeadShot-400x600.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/PreetiMistryHeadShot-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/PreetiMistryHeadShot-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/PreetiMistryHeadShot-1440x2160.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/PreetiMistryHeadShot-1180x1770.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/PreetiMistryHeadShot-960x1440.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Preeti Mistry \u003ccite>(courtesy of Juhu Beach Club)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preeti Mistry\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nMistry has a distinctly 21st-century resume: training in London, competing on \"Top Chef,\" a grueling stint as an executive chef at Google HQ, a popular pop-up that became the Indian street-food-inspired \u003ca href=\"http://www.juhubeachclub.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Juhu Beach Club\u003c/a> in Oakland's Temescal district. Born in London but raised in the Midwest, Mistry aimed to recreate the delectable, beachside snacks she remembered from family trips to Mumbai, filtered through her own American sensibility. Thus, the popular \"Desi Jacks,\" her spice-fragrant take on Cracker Jacks, and the five different pavs, a slider-like sandwich on a soft, sweet bun, that come with fillings like the \"pork vindalated\" in a vindaloo barbecue sauce, and the vegetarian \"sloppy lil'p\". Mistry recently travelled to Hong Kong to open a second outpost, Juhu Beach Club HK. \u003cbr clear=\"all\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_107484\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/sarah-kirnon-400x400.jpg\" alt=\"Sarah Kirnon\" width=\"400\" height=\"400\" class=\"size-thumbnail wp-image-107484\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/sarah-kirnon-400x400.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/sarah-kirnon-32x32.jpg 32w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/sarah-kirnon-64x64.jpg 64w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/sarah-kirnon-96x96.jpg 96w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/sarah-kirnon-128x128.jpg 128w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/sarah-kirnon-150x150.jpg 150w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/sarah-kirnon-75x75.jpg 75w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/sarah-kirnon.jpg 498w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sarah Kirnon \u003ccite>(courtesy of Sarah Kirnon)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Sarah Kirnon\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nWhen Sarah Kirnon left the Front Porch for the East Bay, the Mission's loss was Oakland's gain. (She'd started at Emmy's Spaghetti Shack, just a few blocks up the street, before landing at Front Porch.) She landed first at Hibiscus in Uptown, then opened her own place, \u003ca href=\"http://www.realmissolliesoakland.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Miss Ollie's\u003c/a>, on Washington Street in Old Oakland in 2012. Sure, there's the herb-seasoned fried chicken everyone loves, made just the way Kirnon's grandmother, the original Miss Ollie, made it. But the Afro-Caribbean cuisine that Kirnon, who was born in Britain but raised in Barbados by her grandparents, is dedicated to go much further than that. She cures her own salt cod for the salt fish and ackee, pickles eggs and vegetables with allspice and sugarcane, serves island vegetables like cassava, scotch bonnet peppers, and christophene (known as chayote in Mexico and mirliton in Louisiana). She hopes to put together a cookbook in the near future, telling stories and capturing the flavors of the islands and the Oakland experience. \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "A look at some of the Bay Area's most notable women chefs, in honor of International Women's Day. ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Women chefs have long shaped the food scene in the Bay Area. It's hard to imagine our current vibrant, multicultural, and ever-evolving restaurant landscape without the contributions of women in the industry, to the point where it can seem strange even to call out such talented chefs based solely on their gender. But success in this profession comes from teamwork, and the Bay Area's history of supporting strong, creative women in the kitchen--as well as trend-shaping culinary visionaries and activists--has laid the groundwork for generations of talented female chefs. (Thank you for the Edible Schoolyard, the White House gardens, the mesclun and goat cheese salads, \u003ca href=\"http://www.chezpanisse.com/about/alice-waters/\" target=\"_blank\">Alice Waters\u003c/a>!) \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_107487\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/alice-wheelbarrow560.jpg\" alt=\" Alice Waters at a fundraiser for the Edible Schoolyard Project.\" width=\"560\" height=\"375\" class=\"size-full wp-image-107487\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/alice-wheelbarrow560.jpg 560w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/alice-wheelbarrow560-400x268.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 560px) 100vw, 560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Alice Waters at a fundraiser for the Edible Schoolyard Project. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In honor of International Women's Day, let's raise a toast to pop-up sellers who make it to brick-and-mortar businesses, like Vanessa Chavez of \u003ca href=\"https://www.cholitalinda.com/\" target=\"_blank\">La Cholita Linda\u003c/a> in Oakland and Veronica Salazar of \u003ca href=\"http://huaracheloco.com/\" target=\"_blank\">El Huarache Loco\u003c/a> in Larkspur Landing. Let's do lunch with Liza Shaw of \u003ca href=\"http://www.merigansubshop.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Merigan Sub Shop\u003c/a>, who left A16's pizza and pasta behind to break down whole pigs, make her own hot pickles, and keep us in cheesesteaks and meatball subs, to say nothing of her superior vegetarian offerings, including eggplant parm, egg salad, and chickpea-fritter sandwiches so good we can (almost) forget about the porchetta-and-cracklings that's worth walking all the way down to 2nd and Brannan Streets, even when the Giants are out of town. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Already, we're lining up to check out newcomers like Mexico City's star chef \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2015/09/22/chef-gabriela-camaras-cala-brings-coastal-mexican-food-to-san-francisco/\" target=\"_blank\">Gabriela Cámara\u003c/a>, bringing the exciting flavors of her home city to \u003ca href=\"http://www.calarestaurant.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Cala\u003c/a> in San Francisco. And we're honoring pioneers like the 95-year-old\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.pbs.org/food/features/qa-cecilia-chiang-mandarin-restaurant/\" target=\"_blank\">Cecilia Chiang\u003c/a> who opened the elegant, groundbreaking Mandarin restaurant in 1961, when non-Asian diners typically equated Chinese food with fast, cheap Americanized Cantonese, and ran it, glamorously, for decades. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_107475\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/cecilia-chiang.jpg\" alt=\"Cecilia Chiang was recently honored at CAAMFeast 2016. \" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" class=\"size-full wp-image-107475\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/cecilia-chiang.jpg 1024w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/cecilia-chiang-400x267.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/cecilia-chiang-800x534.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/cecilia-chiang-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/cecilia-chiang-960x640.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cecilia Chiang was recently honored at \u003ca href=\"http://caamedia.org/blog/2016/03/07/celebrating-three-generations-of-food-and-innovation-at-caamfeast-2016/\" target=\"_blank\">CAAMFeast\u003c/a> 2016. \u003ccite>(Leanne Koh)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>We're remembering those whose work continues to influence the way we cook and eat now, from the late \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/12/03/in-memoriam-judy-rodgers-of-zuni-cafe/\" target=\"_blank\">Judy Rodgers\u003c/a> of Zuni Cafe to the unforgettable chef, Chinese scholar, and author \u003ca href=\"http://insidescoopsf.sfgate.com/blog/2011/05/26/reaching-for-the-moon-at-china-moon-cafe/\" target=\"_blank\">Barbara Tropp\u003c/a>, whose inventive China Moon Cafe, closed in 1996, would be right at home today. Tropp, who died in 2001, was part of a group of eight woman (including Square One chef and cookbook author Joyce Goldstein) who founded the professional organization \u003ca href=\"http://womenchefs.org/\" target=\"_blank\">Women Chefs and Restaurateurs\u003c/a> in 1993; WCR, as it's commonly known, remains a valuable resource for women in the industry today. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Working in restaurants is never an easy career path, whether you're scraping together the cooks' family meal or making sure payroll gets met. And while it's often the hot young players that get the press, the Bay Area has an impressive roster of women chefs who have successfully sustained long careers, often maintaining a single flagship restaurant for years or even decades while keeping things fresh with new additions. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, in honor of International Women's Day, here's a brief look at how some of the most notable women chefs in the Bay Area got their starts, what they're cooking and how they're making every day more delicious, while still doing the tough daily work of running restaurants, supporting local farmers and producers, creating jobs, and giving back. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_107480\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/traci-des-jardins-new-400x335.jpg\" alt=\"Traci des Jardins\" width=\"400\" height=\"335\" class=\"size-thumbnail wp-image-107480\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/traci-des-jardins-new-400x335.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/traci-des-jardins-new.jpg 525w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Traci des Jardins \u003ccite>(courtesy of Traci des Jardins)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Traci des Jardins\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nAs a former restaurant critic, I can remember the excitement that the young Traci des Jardins brought to Rubicon as its opening chef in 1994. I was far from her only fan; she won a James Beard Rising Star Chef award in 1995 for her work there. In 1997, she left to open the elegant \u003ca href=\"http://www.jardiniere.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Jardiniere \u003c/a>in Hayes Valley, a restaurant that's still going strong under her direction, nearly 20 years later. And while she made her name with fine dining, she's equally proud of the five dollar fish tacos at \u003ca href=\"http://www.mijitasf.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Mijita Cocina Mexicana\u003c/a> in the Ferry Building, which highlights the food of her Mexican-Californian heritage. Her menus are also in place at three eateries in the Presidio, including The Commissary, Transit, and Arguello, operated in partnership with the Presidio Trust and Bon Appetit Management Company. She's on the board of directors at \u003ca href=\"http://www.lacocinasf.org/\" target=\"_blank\">La Cocina\u003c/a>, the busy incubator for food businesses (with an emphasis on immigrant women) in the Mission. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_107477\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/nancyoakes-400x599.jpg\" alt=\"Nancy Oakes\" width=\"300\" class=\"size-thumbnail wp-image-107477\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/nancyoakes-400x599.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/nancyoakes.jpg 500w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nancy Oakes \u003ccite>(courtesy of Nancy Oakes)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Nancy Oakes\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nOakes opened \u003ca href=\"http://www.boulevardrestaurant.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Boulevard\u003c/a> at the foot of Mission Street in 1993; like Jardiniere, it remains a fixture on the fine dining scene, still serving its lively, vibrant California cuisine 23 years later. Oakes earned a James Beard Award for Best Chef: California in 2001; Boulevard won for Outstanding Restaurant in 2012, after eight consecutive nominations in the category. In 2010, Oakes partnered with two Boulevard chefs, Pam Mazzola and Kathy King, to open the contemporary American \u003ca href=\"http://www.prospectsf.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Prospect\u003c/a> in SoMa. With writer Laura Weiss, she and Mazzola published \"The Boulevard Cookbook\" with Ten Speed Press in 2005. She is on the board of Meals on Wheels, among many other philanthropic organizations. \u003cbr clear=\"all\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_107494\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/DominiqueCrenn-choco500.jpg\" alt=\"Dominique Crenn\" width=\"300\" height=\"418\" class=\"size-full wp-image-107494\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dominique Crenn \u003ccite>(Rien van Rijthoven)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Dominique Crenn\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\"Poetic Culinaria\" is the well-chosen subtitle for the Michelin double-starred \u003ca href=\"http://www.ateliercrenn.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Atelier Crenn\u003c/a>. Dominique Crenn opened this sleek, fog-gray Cow Hollow restaurant in 2011, serving exquisite, cerebral tasting menus, each a poetic meditation on a seasonal moment. Born and raised in France, Crenn has deep roots in the Bay Area, arriving in 1988 and working at the famous Stars restaurant with Jeremiah Tower and Mark Franz, then at Campton Place and 2223 Market, among others. She became Indonesia's first female executive chef at the InterContinental Hotel in Jakarta in 1997, where she worked for a year before returning to California to work in Manhattan Beach, Santa Monica, and San Francisco again, earning a Michelin star at Luce in the InterContinental Hotel in 2009. A longtime fan of Jessica Boncutter's quirky, well-loved Bar Jules in Hayes Valley, Crenn took over the space in 2015 when Boncutter decided to sell. She opened the Brittany-inspired \u003ca href=\"http://www.petitcrenn.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Petit Crenn\u003c/a>, featuring both a la carte dining and a five-course tasting menu, earning a 3 1/2 star review from the San Francisco Chronicle soon after. Last month, Crenn opened her latest venture, Antoinette Brasserie, a more classic French venue in the recently renovated Claremont Club & Spa in Berkeley; Justin Mauz is the executive chef. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_107479\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 250px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/tanyaholland.jpg\" alt=\"Tanya Holland\" width=\"250\" height=\"376\" class=\"size-full wp-image-107479\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tanya Holland \u003ccite>(courtesy of Tanya Holland)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Tanya Holland\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nSouthern born, French trained, Tanya Holland is a familiar face to many. The less fortunate may only know her from her many television appearances on the Food Network and the Today Show, among others. But for those lucky enough to live within eating distance of West Oakland, Holland is a frequent sight behind the line at \u003ca href=\"http://brownsugarkitchen.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Brown Sugar Kitchen\u003c/a>, her 8-year-old breakfast-and-lunch restaurant. (She closed her second Oakland restaurant, B-Side BBQ, a year ago.) Diners may find their way to this stretch of Mandela Parkway for the buttermilk-brined fried chicken, but they stay, from morning to the 3 pm closing time, for the blissfully, buttery-smooth smoked mashed yams, for the fall-off-the-bone pineapple-glazed ribs, the cornmeal waffles and the shrimp and grits. With writer Jan Newberry, Holland published \"Brown Sugar Kitchen: New-Style, Down Home Recipes from Sweet West Oakland,\" with Chronicle Books in 2014.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_107476\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/melissaperello-400x600.jpg\" alt=\"Melissa Perello\" width=\"400\" height=\"600\" class=\"size-thumbnail wp-image-107476\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/melissaperello-400x600.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/melissaperello.jpg 500w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Melissa Perello \u003ccite>(courtesy of Melissa Perello)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Melissa Perello\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nMelissa Perello has a clear penchant for creating warm, welcoming neighborhood dining spots. Located in two small storefronts, both in mostly-residential neighborhoods, Perello's restaurants, \u003ca href=\"http://www.frances-sf.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Frances\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.octavia-sf.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Octavia\u003c/a> both offer a fine dining chef's professionalism and attention to detail, but without formality or fuss. Perello got her start in San Francisco working in the kitchen at Aqua, followed by Charles Nob Hill, where she worked her way up to executive chef. She came on as executive chef at Fifth Floor, which gained a Michelin star under her direction, before leaving in 2007 to start planning for Frances, the Castro small-plates restaurant that she opened in 2009. She added Octavia last year, taking over the lower Pac Heights space previously occupied by Baker and Banker, Quince, and before that, The Meetinghouse (run by another woman chef, Joanne Karlinsky). Octavia's menu is a little bit Italian (ricotta \"malfatti\" dumplings with chard), a little bit French (shellfish bouillabaisse) and very West Coast (little gems salad with Dungeness crab and charred mandarin oranges). \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_107491\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/PreetiMistryHeadShot-400x600.jpg\" alt=\"Preeti Mistry\" width=\"300\" class=\"size-thumbnail wp-image-107491\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/PreetiMistryHeadShot-400x600.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/PreetiMistryHeadShot-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/PreetiMistryHeadShot-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/PreetiMistryHeadShot-1440x2160.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/PreetiMistryHeadShot-1180x1770.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/PreetiMistryHeadShot-960x1440.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Preeti Mistry \u003ccite>(courtesy of Juhu Beach Club)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preeti Mistry\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nMistry has a distinctly 21st-century resume: training in London, competing on \"Top Chef,\" a grueling stint as an executive chef at Google HQ, a popular pop-up that became the Indian street-food-inspired \u003ca href=\"http://www.juhubeachclub.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Juhu Beach Club\u003c/a> in Oakland's Temescal district. Born in London but raised in the Midwest, Mistry aimed to recreate the delectable, beachside snacks she remembered from family trips to Mumbai, filtered through her own American sensibility. Thus, the popular \"Desi Jacks,\" her spice-fragrant take on Cracker Jacks, and the five different pavs, a slider-like sandwich on a soft, sweet bun, that come with fillings like the \"pork vindalated\" in a vindaloo barbecue sauce, and the vegetarian \"sloppy lil'p\". Mistry recently travelled to Hong Kong to open a second outpost, Juhu Beach Club HK. \u003cbr clear=\"all\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_107484\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/sarah-kirnon-400x400.jpg\" alt=\"Sarah Kirnon\" width=\"400\" height=\"400\" class=\"size-thumbnail wp-image-107484\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/sarah-kirnon-400x400.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/sarah-kirnon-32x32.jpg 32w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/sarah-kirnon-64x64.jpg 64w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/sarah-kirnon-96x96.jpg 96w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/sarah-kirnon-128x128.jpg 128w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/sarah-kirnon-150x150.jpg 150w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/sarah-kirnon-75x75.jpg 75w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/03/sarah-kirnon.jpg 498w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sarah Kirnon \u003ccite>(courtesy of Sarah Kirnon)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Sarah Kirnon\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nWhen Sarah Kirnon left the Front Porch for the East Bay, the Mission's loss was Oakland's gain. (She'd started at Emmy's Spaghetti Shack, just a few blocks up the street, before landing at Front Porch.) She landed first at Hibiscus in Uptown, then opened her own place, \u003ca href=\"http://www.realmissolliesoakland.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Miss Ollie's\u003c/a>, on Washington Street in Old Oakland in 2012. Sure, there's the herb-seasoned fried chicken everyone loves, made just the way Kirnon's grandmother, the original Miss Ollie, made it. But the Afro-Caribbean cuisine that Kirnon, who was born in Britain but raised in Barbados by her grandparents, is dedicated to go much further than that. She cures her own salt cod for the salt fish and ackee, pickles eggs and vegetables with allspice and sugarcane, serves island vegetables like cassava, scotch bonnet peppers, and christophene (known as chayote in Mexico and mirliton in Louisiana). She hopes to put together a cookbook in the near future, telling stories and capturing the flavors of the islands and the Oakland experience. \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Sake, Donuts, Noodles and a CAAMFeast: Celebrating Asian Culture and Cuisine",
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"content": "\u003cp>Cecilia Sun Yun Chiang arrived in San Francisco in 1959 to spend time with her sister, who had just lost her husband to cancer. During her first visit to the city, Chiang secured a lease (impulsively? fatefully?) for some friends who wanted to open a restaurant. When that partnership fell apart, Chiang, with little previous business experience, became an accidental restaurateur. Unable to break her lease and unwilling to lose the $10,000 she had put toward the deposit, she decided to go ahead and open the restaurant in a small location on the north end of Polk Street. After sampling what then passed for Chinese food in the U.S. (chop suey, egg foo young, dishes she had never tasted before in China), Chiang opened The Mandarin to little fanfare in 1961, determined to introduce real Chinese food to the American palate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_107169\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/ceciilia1961-1440x1795.jpg\" alt=\"Cecilia Sun Yun Chiang, still from Wayne Wang's Soul of a Banquet\" width=\"640\" height=\"798\" class=\"size-large wp-image-107169\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/ceciilia1961-1440x1795.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/ceciilia1961-400x499.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/ceciilia1961-800x997.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/ceciilia1961-768x957.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/ceciilia1961-1180x1471.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/ceciilia1961-960x1197.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cecilia Sun Yun Chiang, still from Wayne Wang's Soul of a Banquet\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>After gaining (apparently) well-deserved and hard-earned notoriety, The Mandarin moved to a larger location on Ghirardelli Square, and Chiang began her mission in earnest, adding classes in traditional Chinese cooking to the restaurant’s menu. Alice Waters attended a handful of these lessons and became a lifelong friend, eventually comparing Chiang’s influence to Julia Child’s, who Chiang also schooled in the art of Chinese cuisine. When Waters’ famous Berkeley restaurant Chez Panisse celebrated its 40th anniversary a few years back, Chiang paid tribute to their decades-long friendship by preparing a traditional Chinese banquet, which was captured on film by Wayne Wang (\u003cem>The Joy Luck Club\u003c/em>, \u003cem>Chan Is Missing\u003c/em>). That project blossomed into Wang’s \u003cem>Soul of a Banquet\u003c/em> documentary celebrating the restaurateur’s life and influence. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://youtu.be/f3fY6sCQQvc\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, with San Francisco so famous for its cuisine, it is almost impossible to imagine what food in the city must have been like back in the day. We will never understand the influence of pioneers like Chiang. We cannot know the world as it was before them, but must be careful to remember their efforts as we enjoy the fruits of their labor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It is interesting to consider how changes in thinking about food magnify, ripple and ultimately modify the culture. Food is so basic to identity, which is why the Center for Asian American Media (\u003ca href=\"http://caamedia.org/\" target=\"_blank\">CAAM\u003c/a>) began its CAAMFeast a couple years back. \u003ca href=\"http://caamedia.org/caamfeast-awards-stories-food-you/\" target=\"_blank\">CAAMFeast\u003c/a> celebrates “the ways cultural memory and storytelling are passed down through food.” I thought it intriguing that the Center for Asian American \u003cem>Media\u003c/em> was spotlighting chefs instead of filmmakers and asked Debbie Ng, CAAM’s Development and Communications Director about the connection between food and media. Ng replied, “As a cultural institution, we have always told stories about bridging and bonding — and food is a primary vehicle for that.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Indeed, the CAAMFeast, a multimedia event honoring 96-year-old Cecilia Sun Yun Chiang, along with internationally renowned chef and entrepreneur George Chen (Betelnut, LongLife Noodle Company) — who started out as a waiter at The Mandarin, by the way — and chef Brandon Jew (Bar Agricole, Mister Jiu’s) for their contributions to Asian American culinary achievement, is a huge celebration that leads directly into CAAMFest, the 34th annual celebration of Asian American film, music and food. The festival is truly a BEAST, with 11 days of film screenings, music events, panel discussions and social gatherings in multiple venues all around the Bay. This post would quickly become unwieldy should I attempt to cover the breadth of CAAMFest’s ambitions (the festival screens 123 films from around 20 countries).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://youtu.be/WX4C6jr_mmA\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The theme connecting culture and cuisine is on vivid display in the film festival’s presentation of \u003cem>Family Ingredients\u003c/em>, an engaging cooking-travelogue-history show exploring the traditions behind popular Hawaiian dishes with celebrity chef Ed Kenney. The two episodes featured in the festival are a sneak peek at a series that has already won an Emmy for its pilot episode and will begin airing in earnest on PBS this July. The first episode begins with Kenney's personal relationship to poi, a staple made from taro root that is often the first solid food Hawaiian children are fed. Kenney reveals the many permutations of poi, visiting a farm that raises heirloom varieties, a community center that celebrates the making of poi as a communal practice, and profiling a couple of chefs engaged in expanding the vocabulary of the dish (poi pie, poi hummus, poi cheese). The second episode begins with \u003cem>pipikaula\u003c/em> (salted dried beef) and ends up tracing the history of the \u003cem>paniolo\u003c/em> (Hawaiian cowboys) back in time to the Bay Area. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://youtu.be/Q4MIdOj98EA\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A featured documentary, \u003cem>Kampai: For the Love of Sake\u003c/em>, follows three sake connoisseurs on a trip through Japanese culture toward a better understanding of the present-day sake industry. \u003cem>Kampai\u003c/em> (Japanese of ‘cheers’) is one of those lush, multi-layered journey films — a gorgeously photographed and lovingly constructed portrait of three men and the passion for sake that almost fatefully unites them. How did a young, seemingly aimless engineering student from Cleveland, OH become an international sake evangelist? How did the scion of a sake company go from avoiding the family business to revolutionizing it? How did a rural Brit become one of Japan’s most respected sake makers? These questions get answered over the course of the documentary, but as they do another arises: Do you choose your path or does your path choose you? Meanwhile, how is sake made? We get to see the process in glorious detail. Make a reservation at a local sake spot; you will want to experience the drink's many complexities when this film comes to an end. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_107173\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/Noodle-Deli-Photo-1-1440x728.png\" alt=\"Still from Noodle Deli\" width=\"640\" height=\"324\" class=\"size-large wp-image-107173\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/Noodle-Deli-Photo-1-1440x728.png 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/Noodle-Deli-Photo-1-400x202.png 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/Noodle-Deli-Photo-1-800x404.png 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/Noodle-Deli-Photo-1-768x388.png 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/Noodle-Deli-Photo-1-1180x596.png 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/Noodle-Deli-Photo-1-960x485.png 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Still from Noodle Deli\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Two shorts, \u003cem>Noodle Deli\u003c/em> and \u003cem>Donut Shop\u003c/em> offer loving profiles of immigrant entrepreneurs. David Liu’s \u003cem>Noodle Deli\u003c/em> documents the process of making Shanxi knife-cut noodles while Temple City, CA noodle shop-owner Jeffrey Zhifeng Yang tells the origin story of one of the world’s oldest noodle-making traditions. In Robert Riutta’s \u003cem>Donut Shop\u003c/em>, Sam Ath Eath recounts his youth on a poor Cambodian farm, his struggle to get educated, how he became a doctor and then, after the rise of the Khmer Rouge, how he ended up the owner of a donut shop in the Bay Area. Against the current immigration debates, it is an important reminder that we may never truly understand the struggles that lead people out of their homes and into foreign lands. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Center for Asian America’s Feast and Fest both celebrate this continuing journey. It is hard to imagine Chinese food today without Cecilia Sun Yun Chiang’s pioneering contributions. In \u003cem>Family Ingredients\u003c/em>, chef Ed Kenney says, “The person that prepares the food gives a little of themselves.” CAAM celebrates those contributions in their many forms. Get out and celebrate those who blazed the trails that lead to where we are now and those clearing the way for where we are headed. Kampai!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The 3rd Annual CAAMFeast is presented by One Kearny Club, Saturday, March 5, 2016, 6pm-9pm. For more information visit \u003ca href=\"http://caamedia.org/caamfeast-awards-stories-food-you/\" target=\"_blank\">caamedia.org\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The 34th Annual CAAMFest runs March 10-20, 2016 at venues across the San Francisco Bay Area. Get your tickets now at \u003ca href=\"https://caamedia.org/blog/category/caamfest-2016/\" target=\"_blank\">caamedia.org\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Cecilia Sun Yun Chiang arrived in San Francisco in 1959 to spend time with her sister, who had just lost her husband to cancer. During her first visit to the city, Chiang secured a lease (impulsively? fatefully?) for some friends who wanted to open a restaurant. When that partnership fell apart, Chiang, with little previous business experience, became an accidental restaurateur. Unable to break her lease and unwilling to lose the $10,000 she had put toward the deposit, she decided to go ahead and open the restaurant in a small location on the north end of Polk Street. After sampling what then passed for Chinese food in the U.S. (chop suey, egg foo young, dishes she had never tasted before in China), Chiang opened The Mandarin to little fanfare in 1961, determined to introduce real Chinese food to the American palate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_107169\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/ceciilia1961-1440x1795.jpg\" alt=\"Cecilia Sun Yun Chiang, still from Wayne Wang's Soul of a Banquet\" width=\"640\" height=\"798\" class=\"size-large wp-image-107169\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/ceciilia1961-1440x1795.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/ceciilia1961-400x499.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/ceciilia1961-800x997.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/ceciilia1961-768x957.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/ceciilia1961-1180x1471.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/ceciilia1961-960x1197.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cecilia Sun Yun Chiang, still from Wayne Wang's Soul of a Banquet\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>After gaining (apparently) well-deserved and hard-earned notoriety, The Mandarin moved to a larger location on Ghirardelli Square, and Chiang began her mission in earnest, adding classes in traditional Chinese cooking to the restaurant’s menu. Alice Waters attended a handful of these lessons and became a lifelong friend, eventually comparing Chiang’s influence to Julia Child’s, who Chiang also schooled in the art of Chinese cuisine. When Waters’ famous Berkeley restaurant Chez Panisse celebrated its 40th anniversary a few years back, Chiang paid tribute to their decades-long friendship by preparing a traditional Chinese banquet, which was captured on film by Wayne Wang (\u003cem>The Joy Luck Club\u003c/em>, \u003cem>Chan Is Missing\u003c/em>). That project blossomed into Wang’s \u003cem>Soul of a Banquet\u003c/em> documentary celebrating the restaurateur’s life and influence. \u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/f3fY6sCQQvc'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/f3fY6sCQQvc'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cp>Now, with San Francisco so famous for its cuisine, it is almost impossible to imagine what food in the city must have been like back in the day. We will never understand the influence of pioneers like Chiang. We cannot know the world as it was before them, but must be careful to remember their efforts as we enjoy the fruits of their labor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It is interesting to consider how changes in thinking about food magnify, ripple and ultimately modify the culture. Food is so basic to identity, which is why the Center for Asian American Media (\u003ca href=\"http://caamedia.org/\" target=\"_blank\">CAAM\u003c/a>) began its CAAMFeast a couple years back. \u003ca href=\"http://caamedia.org/caamfeast-awards-stories-food-you/\" target=\"_blank\">CAAMFeast\u003c/a> celebrates “the ways cultural memory and storytelling are passed down through food.” I thought it intriguing that the Center for Asian American \u003cem>Media\u003c/em> was spotlighting chefs instead of filmmakers and asked Debbie Ng, CAAM’s Development and Communications Director about the connection between food and media. Ng replied, “As a cultural institution, we have always told stories about bridging and bonding — and food is a primary vehicle for that.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Indeed, the CAAMFeast, a multimedia event honoring 96-year-old Cecilia Sun Yun Chiang, along with internationally renowned chef and entrepreneur George Chen (Betelnut, LongLife Noodle Company) — who started out as a waiter at The Mandarin, by the way — and chef Brandon Jew (Bar Agricole, Mister Jiu’s) for their contributions to Asian American culinary achievement, is a huge celebration that leads directly into CAAMFest, the 34th annual celebration of Asian American film, music and food. The festival is truly a BEAST, with 11 days of film screenings, music events, panel discussions and social gatherings in multiple venues all around the Bay. This post would quickly become unwieldy should I attempt to cover the breadth of CAAMFest’s ambitions (the festival screens 123 films from around 20 countries).\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/WX4C6jr_mmA'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/WX4C6jr_mmA'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cp>The theme connecting culture and cuisine is on vivid display in the film festival’s presentation of \u003cem>Family Ingredients\u003c/em>, an engaging cooking-travelogue-history show exploring the traditions behind popular Hawaiian dishes with celebrity chef Ed Kenney. The two episodes featured in the festival are a sneak peek at a series that has already won an Emmy for its pilot episode and will begin airing in earnest on PBS this July. The first episode begins with Kenney's personal relationship to poi, a staple made from taro root that is often the first solid food Hawaiian children are fed. Kenney reveals the many permutations of poi, visiting a farm that raises heirloom varieties, a community center that celebrates the making of poi as a communal practice, and profiling a couple of chefs engaged in expanding the vocabulary of the dish (poi pie, poi hummus, poi cheese). The second episode begins with \u003cem>pipikaula\u003c/em> (salted dried beef) and ends up tracing the history of the \u003cem>paniolo\u003c/em> (Hawaiian cowboys) back in time to the Bay Area. \u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/Q4MIdOj98EA'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/Q4MIdOj98EA'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cp>A featured documentary, \u003cem>Kampai: For the Love of Sake\u003c/em>, follows three sake connoisseurs on a trip through Japanese culture toward a better understanding of the present-day sake industry. \u003cem>Kampai\u003c/em> (Japanese of ‘cheers’) is one of those lush, multi-layered journey films — a gorgeously photographed and lovingly constructed portrait of three men and the passion for sake that almost fatefully unites them. How did a young, seemingly aimless engineering student from Cleveland, OH become an international sake evangelist? How did the scion of a sake company go from avoiding the family business to revolutionizing it? How did a rural Brit become one of Japan’s most respected sake makers? These questions get answered over the course of the documentary, but as they do another arises: Do you choose your path or does your path choose you? Meanwhile, how is sake made? We get to see the process in glorious detail. Make a reservation at a local sake spot; you will want to experience the drink's many complexities when this film comes to an end. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_107173\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/Noodle-Deli-Photo-1-1440x728.png\" alt=\"Still from Noodle Deli\" width=\"640\" height=\"324\" class=\"size-large wp-image-107173\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/Noodle-Deli-Photo-1-1440x728.png 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/Noodle-Deli-Photo-1-400x202.png 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/Noodle-Deli-Photo-1-800x404.png 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/Noodle-Deli-Photo-1-768x388.png 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/Noodle-Deli-Photo-1-1180x596.png 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/Noodle-Deli-Photo-1-960x485.png 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Still from Noodle Deli\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Two shorts, \u003cem>Noodle Deli\u003c/em> and \u003cem>Donut Shop\u003c/em> offer loving profiles of immigrant entrepreneurs. David Liu’s \u003cem>Noodle Deli\u003c/em> documents the process of making Shanxi knife-cut noodles while Temple City, CA noodle shop-owner Jeffrey Zhifeng Yang tells the origin story of one of the world’s oldest noodle-making traditions. In Robert Riutta’s \u003cem>Donut Shop\u003c/em>, Sam Ath Eath recounts his youth on a poor Cambodian farm, his struggle to get educated, how he became a doctor and then, after the rise of the Khmer Rouge, how he ended up the owner of a donut shop in the Bay Area. Against the current immigration debates, it is an important reminder that we may never truly understand the struggles that lead people out of their homes and into foreign lands. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Center for Asian America’s Feast and Fest both celebrate this continuing journey. It is hard to imagine Chinese food today without Cecilia Sun Yun Chiang’s pioneering contributions. In \u003cem>Family Ingredients\u003c/em>, chef Ed Kenney says, “The person that prepares the food gives a little of themselves.” CAAM celebrates those contributions in their many forms. Get out and celebrate those who blazed the trails that lead to where we are now and those clearing the way for where we are headed. Kampai!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The 3rd Annual CAAMFeast is presented by One Kearny Club, Saturday, March 5, 2016, 6pm-9pm. For more information visit \u003ca href=\"http://caamedia.org/caamfeast-awards-stories-food-you/\" target=\"_blank\">caamedia.org\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The 34th Annual CAAMFest runs March 10-20, 2016 at venues across the San Francisco Bay Area. Get your tickets now at \u003ca href=\"https://caamedia.org/blog/category/caamfest-2016/\" target=\"_blank\">caamedia.org\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "'Save The Fleet, Eat Less Wheat': The Patriotic History Of Ditching Bread",
"title": "'Save The Fleet, Eat Less Wheat': The Patriotic History Of Ditching Bread",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_107143\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 760px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/army-bakery_enl-66b09909b507fb4d30cf826ba8034119cb2e6ddb.jpg\" alt=\"U.S. soldiers sack bread ready for shipment, shortly after the end of World War I.\" width=\"760\" height=\"581\" class=\"size-full wp-image-107143\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/army-bakery_enl-66b09909b507fb4d30cf826ba8034119cb2e6ddb.jpg 760w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/army-bakery_enl-66b09909b507fb4d30cf826ba8034119cb2e6ddb-400x306.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">U.S. soldiers sack bread ready for shipment, shortly after the end of World War I. \u003ccite>(The Miriam and Ira D. Wallach Division of Art, Prints and Photographs: Photography Collection/The New York Public Library)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Finding bread alternatives may seem like a thoroughly modern obsession. (Can someone pass the chia-millet rolls?) But the widespread search for substitutes to white flour, in particular, dates back at least a century, to World War I, when Allied forces aggressively urged consumers to change their starchy habits for nationalistic reasons.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On one hand, bread was symbolically important: It conjured ideas of comfort that were especially welcome during a time of fear and turmoil. The act of sharing a loaf — literally breaking bread together — carried psychological weight.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"If you had bread, you were OK,\" says \u003ca href=\"http://www.joannelambhayes.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Joanne Lamb Hayes\u003c/a>, author of the book \u003cem>Grandma's Wartime Kitchen\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Problem was, diners on both sides of the ocean had a taste for white bread, which only made use of part of the wheat crop, and wasted the rest. Plus, Britain, an island nation, imported much of its food, including its grain – a task made harder with German submarines prowling the waters. In this atmosphere, indulging in white flour was viewed as wastefulness akin to aiding and abetting the enemy. At the same time, Allied forces called on the U.S. to donate some of its wheat crop to feed troops and civilians overseas. So, in the U.S. and U.K., government campaigns encouraged patriots to give up refined white bread in favor of heartier whole wheat, or to add other ingredients as fillers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_107144\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/sendthemwheat_custom-925dc146ed4355c20a735491676a771d63c9a9cb.jpg\" alt=\"A poster produced by the U.S. Food Administration during World War I. "There was a feeling that the troops deserved white bread, and the rest of us could add cornmeal or rye flour," says Joanne Lamb Hayes, author of Grandma's Wartime Kitchen.\" width=\"1024\" height=\"817\" class=\"size-full wp-image-107144\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/sendthemwheat_custom-925dc146ed4355c20a735491676a771d63c9a9cb.jpg 1024w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/sendthemwheat_custom-925dc146ed4355c20a735491676a771d63c9a9cb-400x319.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/sendthemwheat_custom-925dc146ed4355c20a735491676a771d63c9a9cb-800x638.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/sendthemwheat_custom-925dc146ed4355c20a735491676a771d63c9a9cb-768x613.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/sendthemwheat_custom-925dc146ed4355c20a735491676a771d63c9a9cb-960x766.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A poster produced by the U.S. Food Administration during World War I. \"There was a feeling that the troops deserved white bread, and the rest of us could add cornmeal or rye flour,\" says Joanne Lamb Hayes, author of Grandma's Wartime Kitchen. \u003ccite>(Harvey Dunn/U.S. Food Administration/Library of Congress)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"There was a feeling that the troops deserved white bread, and the rest of us could add cornmeal or rye flour,\" says Hayes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the U.S. during World War I, the federal Food Administration encouraged substituting ground oats, cornmeal, rice, barley, potato and buckwheat in place of wheat flour. (Yep — the same kinds of ingredients you'll find in today's frozen gluten-free waffles.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In Oregon, for instance, the loaf locally called \"war bread\" contained 40 percent wheat substitutes, such as corn, barley, or rice flour; another type, known as \"victory bread,\" contained 25 percent substitutes. Those who munched on war bread, readers of the Oregon \u003cem>E\u003c/em>\u003cem>vening Herald \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"http://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn99063812/1918-05-10/ed-1/seq-1/#date1=1836&index=12&rows=20&words=BREAD+bread+Bread+War+WAR+war&searchType=basic&sequence=0&state=&date2=1922&proxtext=war+bread&y=0&x=0&dateFilterType=yearRange&page=1\">were told\u003c/a>, were \"15 per cent more patriotic than the one who eats victory bread.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_107145\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/eat-less-bread_enl-9d7d60f7415cd2e14ac3813fcddaf28db31ec84d-400x599.jpg\" alt='A British propaganda poster from World War I reminds consumers that \"The Kitchen is the Key to Victory. Eat Less Bread.\"' width=\"400\" height=\"599\" class=\"size-thumbnail wp-image-107145\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/eat-less-bread_enl-9d7d60f7415cd2e14ac3813fcddaf28db31ec84d-400x599.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/eat-less-bread_enl-9d7d60f7415cd2e14ac3813fcddaf28db31ec84d.jpg 668w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A British propaganda poster from World War I reminds consumers that \"The Kitchen is the Key to Victory. Eat Less Bread.\" \u003ccite>(Special Collections, USDA National Agricultural Library)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>One 1918 pamphlet described these alternative breads as \"foods that will win the war.\" One wheatless meal per family per day, the pamphlet estimated, \"would mean a saving of 90,000,000 bushels of wheat, which totals 5,400,000,000 lbs.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>American home bakers were also encouraged to mash up potatoes in their breads, because, as Hayes explains, \"people could grow some sort of potato in their victory garden.\" Whereas \"with wheat, you really needed a farm.\" Some newspapers even ran daily potato recipes, such as one for \u003ca href=\"https://bklyn.newspapers.com/image/55292406/?terms=war%2Bbread\" target=\"_blank\">mashed potato biscuits\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ditching white bread for the good of the nation was also a theme during World War II, though American eaters weren't psyched about it. As Aaron Bobow-Strain explains in the book \u003cem>White Bread: A Social History of the Store-Bought Loaf,\u003c/em> \"during the 1930s and '40s, Americans got more calories from white bread than from any other food,\" and glared at attempts to tweak the recipe.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Still, newspapers under the Hearst umbrella dutifully \u003ca href=\"http://www.wrvmuseum.org/journal/journal_ftbr_0404.htm\" target=\"_blank\">compiled recipes\u003c/a> by the pseudonymous \"Prudence Penny,\" who doled out patriotic calls to arms softened by singsong rhymes. The resulting cookbook, \u003cem>Prudence Penny's Coupon Cookery,\u003c/em> included ditties like this, an ode to whole grain flour as an alternative to white:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>The cook who bakes her bread and rolls is everybody's pal\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Just that tantalizing fragrance will help to build morale\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>America is rich in grain, and grain is rich in health\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Whole-grain bread and cereals may prove our nation's wealth\n\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Wartime ingredient swaps were common in the U.K., too, during both world wars,\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>says \u003ca href=\"http://www.iwm.org.uk/authors/amanda-mason\" target=\"_blank\">Amanda Mason\u003c/a>, a historian at the Imperial War Museum in London. Dried eggs — more widely available than fresh ones — became baking staples. Sausage meatloaf molded into the shape of a turkey or duck masqueraded as festive holiday fare. Parsnips were cast as fake bananas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_107142\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/potato-pete_enl-ea0a6d914d36b2e6a9170ffbfc3994cf4823a95c.jpg\" alt=\"During World War II, Potato Pete, a dapper cartoon spud with a jaunty cap and spats, instructed U.K. consumers on the humble tuber's many uses – not just in standards like scalloped potatoes and savory pies, but also in more surprising options, like potato scones and waffles.\" width=\"800\" height=\"601\" class=\"size-full wp-image-107142\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/potato-pete_enl-ea0a6d914d36b2e6a9170ffbfc3994cf4823a95c.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/potato-pete_enl-ea0a6d914d36b2e6a9170ffbfc3994cf4823a95c-400x301.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/potato-pete_enl-ea0a6d914d36b2e6a9170ffbfc3994cf4823a95c-768x577.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">During World War II, Potato Pete, a dapper cartoon spud with a jaunty cap and spats, instructed U.K. consumers on the humble tuber's many uses – not just in standards like scalloped potatoes and savory pies, but also in more surprising options, like potato scones and waffles. \u003ccite>(Imperial War Museums (Art.IWM PST 6080))\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>And, during World War II, U.K. consumers were introduced to Potato Pete, a dapper cartoon spud with a jaunty cap and spats, who \u003ca href=\"http://www.kingscollections.org/exhibitions/archives/food/ww2/pete#Gallery\">instructed them\u003c/a> on the humble tuber's many uses – not just in standards like scalloped potatoes and savory pies, but also in more surprising options, like potato scones and waffles.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Indeed, Mason says the only bakery-made bread for sale in Britain during much of World War II was something called the National Loaf.\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>This was a coarse, wholemeal bread that used as much grain as possible, including the husks — and which, Mason admits, was \"generally unpopular with the average shopper.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_107146\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/save_the_wheat_enl-c8c5fd644131d59a7acaab812eb98cd32ed2e622-400x606.jpg\" alt=\"During World War I, ships bringing imported food supplies into Britain were extremely vulnerable to German U-boat attack. By 1917, 400 Allied ships a month were being sunk. Although wheat was imported from new sources, and Britain's own harvest reached record levels, the government actively encouraged economy.\" width=\"400\" height=\"606\" class=\"size-thumbnail wp-image-107146\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/save_the_wheat_enl-c8c5fd644131d59a7acaab812eb98cd32ed2e622-400x606.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/save_the_wheat_enl-c8c5fd644131d59a7acaab812eb98cd32ed2e622.jpg 528w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">During World War I, ships bringing imported food supplies into Britain were extremely vulnerable to German U-boat attack. By 1917, 400 Allied ships a month were being sunk. Although wheat was imported from new sources, and Britain's own harvest reached record levels, the government actively encouraged economy. \u003ccite>(Imperial War Museums (Art.IWM PST 4470))\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>American consumers weren't drooling over the taste of war bread, either. The writer of a 1918 \u003ca href=\"https://bklyn.newspapers.com/image/55299179/?terms=war%2Bbread\" target=\"_blank\">story\u003c/a> in the \u003cem>Brooklyn Daily Eagle\u003c/em> glumly reported that the texture and flavor of war-time bread \"are suggestive of saw dust,\" and noted that \"it doesn't tempt appetite.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Still, writers were quick to add that war breads were a patriotic duty: As the \u003cem>Daily Eagle \u003c/em>noted, \"Of course, we are resigned — we are even glad — to eat them.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And the government and media outlets made sure people didn't forget that duty. A \u003ca href=\"http://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn88085187/1917-04-24/ed-1/seq-1/#date1=1836&index=15&rows=20&words=bread+war&searchType=basic&sequence=0&state=&date2=1922&proxtext=war+bread&y=0&x=0&dateFilterType=yearRange&page=1\" target=\"_blank\">front-page story\u003c/a> in an April 1917 issue of Washington state's \u003cem>Tacoma Times \u003c/em>newspaper featured a drawing of Uncle Sam admonishing readers to \"avoid wastefulness and shun white-flour bread.\" That same month, Chicago's \u003cem>Day Book\u003c/em> chided consumers who ate white bread, reminding them that \"war bread is more essential than bullets.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Agencies in the U.K. also laid on the guilt trip to keep consumers away from white bread. \u003ca href=\"http://www.iwm.org.uk/history/8-handy-tips-from-the-ministry-of-food#entry8\">Short propaganda films\u003c/a> produced by the British Ministry of Food during World War II urged citizens to \"make the most of every crumb,\" because \"bread is worth more than dough.\" Posters echoed this sentiment, trumpeting, \"Save the Wheat and Help the Fleet,\" and \"The Kitchen Is the Key to Victory: Eat Less Bread.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Jessica Leigh Hester writes about urbanism and history. She lives in Brooklyn. \u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2016 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Finding bread alternatives may seem like a thoroughly modern obsession. But, during both world wars, consumers were urged to give up their white bread habit for the national good.",
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"description": "Finding bread alternatives may seem like a thoroughly modern obsession. But, during both world wars, consumers were urged to give up their white bread habit for the national good.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_107143\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 760px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/army-bakery_enl-66b09909b507fb4d30cf826ba8034119cb2e6ddb.jpg\" alt=\"U.S. soldiers sack bread ready for shipment, shortly after the end of World War I.\" width=\"760\" height=\"581\" class=\"size-full wp-image-107143\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/army-bakery_enl-66b09909b507fb4d30cf826ba8034119cb2e6ddb.jpg 760w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/army-bakery_enl-66b09909b507fb4d30cf826ba8034119cb2e6ddb-400x306.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">U.S. soldiers sack bread ready for shipment, shortly after the end of World War I. \u003ccite>(The Miriam and Ira D. Wallach Division of Art, Prints and Photographs: Photography Collection/The New York Public Library)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Finding bread alternatives may seem like a thoroughly modern obsession. (Can someone pass the chia-millet rolls?) But the widespread search for substitutes to white flour, in particular, dates back at least a century, to World War I, when Allied forces aggressively urged consumers to change their starchy habits for nationalistic reasons.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On one hand, bread was symbolically important: It conjured ideas of comfort that were especially welcome during a time of fear and turmoil. The act of sharing a loaf — literally breaking bread together — carried psychological weight.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"If you had bread, you were OK,\" says \u003ca href=\"http://www.joannelambhayes.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Joanne Lamb Hayes\u003c/a>, author of the book \u003cem>Grandma's Wartime Kitchen\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Problem was, diners on both sides of the ocean had a taste for white bread, which only made use of part of the wheat crop, and wasted the rest. Plus, Britain, an island nation, imported much of its food, including its grain – a task made harder with German submarines prowling the waters. In this atmosphere, indulging in white flour was viewed as wastefulness akin to aiding and abetting the enemy. At the same time, Allied forces called on the U.S. to donate some of its wheat crop to feed troops and civilians overseas. So, in the U.S. and U.K., government campaigns encouraged patriots to give up refined white bread in favor of heartier whole wheat, or to add other ingredients as fillers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_107144\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/sendthemwheat_custom-925dc146ed4355c20a735491676a771d63c9a9cb.jpg\" alt=\"A poster produced by the U.S. Food Administration during World War I. "There was a feeling that the troops deserved white bread, and the rest of us could add cornmeal or rye flour," says Joanne Lamb Hayes, author of Grandma's Wartime Kitchen.\" width=\"1024\" height=\"817\" class=\"size-full wp-image-107144\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/sendthemwheat_custom-925dc146ed4355c20a735491676a771d63c9a9cb.jpg 1024w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/sendthemwheat_custom-925dc146ed4355c20a735491676a771d63c9a9cb-400x319.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/sendthemwheat_custom-925dc146ed4355c20a735491676a771d63c9a9cb-800x638.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/sendthemwheat_custom-925dc146ed4355c20a735491676a771d63c9a9cb-768x613.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/sendthemwheat_custom-925dc146ed4355c20a735491676a771d63c9a9cb-960x766.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A poster produced by the U.S. Food Administration during World War I. \"There was a feeling that the troops deserved white bread, and the rest of us could add cornmeal or rye flour,\" says Joanne Lamb Hayes, author of Grandma's Wartime Kitchen. \u003ccite>(Harvey Dunn/U.S. Food Administration/Library of Congress)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"There was a feeling that the troops deserved white bread, and the rest of us could add cornmeal or rye flour,\" says Hayes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the U.S. during World War I, the federal Food Administration encouraged substituting ground oats, cornmeal, rice, barley, potato and buckwheat in place of wheat flour. (Yep — the same kinds of ingredients you'll find in today's frozen gluten-free waffles.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In Oregon, for instance, the loaf locally called \"war bread\" contained 40 percent wheat substitutes, such as corn, barley, or rice flour; another type, known as \"victory bread,\" contained 25 percent substitutes. Those who munched on war bread, readers of the Oregon \u003cem>E\u003c/em>\u003cem>vening Herald \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"http://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn99063812/1918-05-10/ed-1/seq-1/#date1=1836&index=12&rows=20&words=BREAD+bread+Bread+War+WAR+war&searchType=basic&sequence=0&state=&date2=1922&proxtext=war+bread&y=0&x=0&dateFilterType=yearRange&page=1\">were told\u003c/a>, were \"15 per cent more patriotic than the one who eats victory bread.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_107145\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/eat-less-bread_enl-9d7d60f7415cd2e14ac3813fcddaf28db31ec84d-400x599.jpg\" alt='A British propaganda poster from World War I reminds consumers that \"The Kitchen is the Key to Victory. Eat Less Bread.\"' width=\"400\" height=\"599\" class=\"size-thumbnail wp-image-107145\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/eat-less-bread_enl-9d7d60f7415cd2e14ac3813fcddaf28db31ec84d-400x599.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/eat-less-bread_enl-9d7d60f7415cd2e14ac3813fcddaf28db31ec84d.jpg 668w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A British propaganda poster from World War I reminds consumers that \"The Kitchen is the Key to Victory. Eat Less Bread.\" \u003ccite>(Special Collections, USDA National Agricultural Library)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>One 1918 pamphlet described these alternative breads as \"foods that will win the war.\" One wheatless meal per family per day, the pamphlet estimated, \"would mean a saving of 90,000,000 bushels of wheat, which totals 5,400,000,000 lbs.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>American home bakers were also encouraged to mash up potatoes in their breads, because, as Hayes explains, \"people could grow some sort of potato in their victory garden.\" Whereas \"with wheat, you really needed a farm.\" Some newspapers even ran daily potato recipes, such as one for \u003ca href=\"https://bklyn.newspapers.com/image/55292406/?terms=war%2Bbread\" target=\"_blank\">mashed potato biscuits\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ditching white bread for the good of the nation was also a theme during World War II, though American eaters weren't psyched about it. As Aaron Bobow-Strain explains in the book \u003cem>White Bread: A Social History of the Store-Bought Loaf,\u003c/em> \"during the 1930s and '40s, Americans got more calories from white bread than from any other food,\" and glared at attempts to tweak the recipe.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Still, newspapers under the Hearst umbrella dutifully \u003ca href=\"http://www.wrvmuseum.org/journal/journal_ftbr_0404.htm\" target=\"_blank\">compiled recipes\u003c/a> by the pseudonymous \"Prudence Penny,\" who doled out patriotic calls to arms softened by singsong rhymes. The resulting cookbook, \u003cem>Prudence Penny's Coupon Cookery,\u003c/em> included ditties like this, an ode to whole grain flour as an alternative to white:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>The cook who bakes her bread and rolls is everybody's pal\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Just that tantalizing fragrance will help to build morale\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>America is rich in grain, and grain is rich in health\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Whole-grain bread and cereals may prove our nation's wealth\n\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Wartime ingredient swaps were common in the U.K., too, during both world wars,\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>says \u003ca href=\"http://www.iwm.org.uk/authors/amanda-mason\" target=\"_blank\">Amanda Mason\u003c/a>, a historian at the Imperial War Museum in London. Dried eggs — more widely available than fresh ones — became baking staples. Sausage meatloaf molded into the shape of a turkey or duck masqueraded as festive holiday fare. Parsnips were cast as fake bananas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_107142\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/potato-pete_enl-ea0a6d914d36b2e6a9170ffbfc3994cf4823a95c.jpg\" alt=\"During World War II, Potato Pete, a dapper cartoon spud with a jaunty cap and spats, instructed U.K. consumers on the humble tuber's many uses – not just in standards like scalloped potatoes and savory pies, but also in more surprising options, like potato scones and waffles.\" width=\"800\" height=\"601\" class=\"size-full wp-image-107142\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/potato-pete_enl-ea0a6d914d36b2e6a9170ffbfc3994cf4823a95c.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/potato-pete_enl-ea0a6d914d36b2e6a9170ffbfc3994cf4823a95c-400x301.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/potato-pete_enl-ea0a6d914d36b2e6a9170ffbfc3994cf4823a95c-768x577.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">During World War II, Potato Pete, a dapper cartoon spud with a jaunty cap and spats, instructed U.K. consumers on the humble tuber's many uses – not just in standards like scalloped potatoes and savory pies, but also in more surprising options, like potato scones and waffles. \u003ccite>(Imperial War Museums (Art.IWM PST 6080))\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>And, during World War II, U.K. consumers were introduced to Potato Pete, a dapper cartoon spud with a jaunty cap and spats, who \u003ca href=\"http://www.kingscollections.org/exhibitions/archives/food/ww2/pete#Gallery\">instructed them\u003c/a> on the humble tuber's many uses – not just in standards like scalloped potatoes and savory pies, but also in more surprising options, like potato scones and waffles.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Indeed, Mason says the only bakery-made bread for sale in Britain during much of World War II was something called the National Loaf.\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>This was a coarse, wholemeal bread that used as much grain as possible, including the husks — and which, Mason admits, was \"generally unpopular with the average shopper.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_107146\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/save_the_wheat_enl-c8c5fd644131d59a7acaab812eb98cd32ed2e622-400x606.jpg\" alt=\"During World War I, ships bringing imported food supplies into Britain were extremely vulnerable to German U-boat attack. By 1917, 400 Allied ships a month were being sunk. Although wheat was imported from new sources, and Britain's own harvest reached record levels, the government actively encouraged economy.\" width=\"400\" height=\"606\" class=\"size-thumbnail wp-image-107146\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/save_the_wheat_enl-c8c5fd644131d59a7acaab812eb98cd32ed2e622-400x606.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/save_the_wheat_enl-c8c5fd644131d59a7acaab812eb98cd32ed2e622.jpg 528w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">During World War I, ships bringing imported food supplies into Britain were extremely vulnerable to German U-boat attack. By 1917, 400 Allied ships a month were being sunk. Although wheat was imported from new sources, and Britain's own harvest reached record levels, the government actively encouraged economy. \u003ccite>(Imperial War Museums (Art.IWM PST 4470))\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>American consumers weren't drooling over the taste of war bread, either. The writer of a 1918 \u003ca href=\"https://bklyn.newspapers.com/image/55299179/?terms=war%2Bbread\" target=\"_blank\">story\u003c/a> in the \u003cem>Brooklyn Daily Eagle\u003c/em> glumly reported that the texture and flavor of war-time bread \"are suggestive of saw dust,\" and noted that \"it doesn't tempt appetite.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Still, writers were quick to add that war breads were a patriotic duty: As the \u003cem>Daily Eagle \u003c/em>noted, \"Of course, we are resigned — we are even glad — to eat them.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And the government and media outlets made sure people didn't forget that duty. A \u003ca href=\"http://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn88085187/1917-04-24/ed-1/seq-1/#date1=1836&index=15&rows=20&words=bread+war&searchType=basic&sequence=0&state=&date2=1922&proxtext=war+bread&y=0&x=0&dateFilterType=yearRange&page=1\" target=\"_blank\">front-page story\u003c/a> in an April 1917 issue of Washington state's \u003cem>Tacoma Times \u003c/em>newspaper featured a drawing of Uncle Sam admonishing readers to \"avoid wastefulness and shun white-flour bread.\" That same month, Chicago's \u003cem>Day Book\u003c/em> chided consumers who ate white bread, reminding them that \"war bread is more essential than bullets.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Agencies in the U.K. also laid on the guilt trip to keep consumers away from white bread. \u003ca href=\"http://www.iwm.org.uk/history/8-handy-tips-from-the-ministry-of-food#entry8\">Short propaganda films\u003c/a> produced by the British Ministry of Food during World War II urged citizens to \"make the most of every crumb,\" because \"bread is worth more than dough.\" Posters echoed this sentiment, trumpeting, \"Save the Wheat and Help the Fleet,\" and \"The Kitchen Is the Key to Victory: Eat Less Bread.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Jessica Leigh Hester writes about urbanism and history. She lives in Brooklyn. \u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "Lo Mein Loophole: How U.S. Immigration Law Fueled A Chinese Restaurant Boom",
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"content": "\u003cp>Americans craving kung pao chicken or a good lo mein for dinner have plenty of options: The U.S. is home to more than 40,000 Chinese restaurants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One could think of this proliferation as a promise fulfilled — America as the great melting pot and land of opportunity for immigrants. Ironically, the legal forces that made this Chinese culinary profusion possible, beginning in the early 20th century, were born of altogether different sentiments: racism and xenophobia.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Anti-Chinese sentiment was rampant in America in the early 20th century — and had been since the latter half of the 19th century, when \u003ca href=\"http://www.migrationpolicy.org/article/chinese-immigrants-united-states\">as many as 300,000 Chinese\u003c/a> miners, farmers, railroad and factory workers came to the U.S. Many non-Chinese workers felt threatened by these laborers, who often worked for lower wages.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Amid mounting social tensions, the U.S. passed immigration laws that explicitly barred Chinese laborers from immigrating or becoming U.S. citizens, and made it extremely difficult for even legal residents to re-enter the U.S. after a visit home to China. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_107081\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 760px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/interiorchineserestaurant.jpg\" alt=\"The interior of a Chinese restaurant in San Francisco, circa 1880.\" width=\"760\" height=\"397\" class=\"size-full wp-image-107081\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/interiorchineserestaurant.jpg 760w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/interiorchineserestaurant-400x209.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The interior of a Chinese restaurant in San Francisco, circa 1880. \u003ccite>( The Miriam and Ira D. Wallach Division of Art, Prints and Photographs: Photography Collection,The New York Public Library )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>But, as MIT legal historian \u003ca href=\"http://www.scholarsstrategynetwork.org/scholar/heather-r-lee\">Heather Lee\u003c/a> tells it, there was an important exception to these laws: Some Chinese business owners in the U.S. could get special merchant visas that allowed them to travel to China, and bring back employees. Only a few types of businesses qualified for this status. In 1915, a federal court added restaurants to that list. Voila! A restaurant boom was born.\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The number of Chinese restaurants in the U.S. doubles from 1910 to 1920, and doubles again from 1920 to 1930,\" says Lee, referring to research done by economist \u003ca href=\"http://economics.ucr.edu/people/profemer/carter.html\">Susan Carter\u003c/a>. In New York City alone, Lee found that the number of Chinese eateries quadrupled between 1910 and 1920.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lee was digging through old immigration records in 2011, as part of her doctoral dissertation, when she discovered evidence that this legal change had fueled a rise in restaurants. She found a flood of applications from Chinese immigrants after 1915 seeking merchant status to start up restaurant businesses, along with applications from others brought over to work in these establishments.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Prior to the restaurant loophole, Lee says, most Chinese immigrants in America worked in laundries — they were excluded from better-paying options. But by 1930, they were more likely to be toiling in eating establishments. \"The scale of it increases astronomically,\" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_107084\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/1904menu_custom.jpg\" alt=\"The menu for a Chinese restaurant in New York City, 1904. At the turn of the 20th century, the cheapness of Chinese food and late hours observed by Chinese restaurants were a draw – especially for bohemians, whose patronage lent these establishments a certain cachet. \" width=\"300\" height=\"427\" class=\"size-full wp-image-107084\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The menu for a Chinese restaurant in New York City, 1904. At the turn of the 20th century, the cheapness of Chinese food and late hours observed by Chinese restaurants were a draw – especially for bohemians, whose patronage lent these establishments a certain cachet. \u003ccite>(Rare Book Division, The New York Public Library )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Many Chinese immigrants to the U.S. were men who had come alone: They were here to earn money to support families back home, not to settle down permanently. Once in the U.S., however, it was all but impossible for them to travel back to visit loved ones in China. After 1915, the visas that came with working in a restaurant became bridges to families and friends back in China, Lee says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It was really important for [these men] to be able to move back and forth, to get married and retire someday. That was the idea. These special visas were critically important,\" Lee says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even so, getting a special merchant visa was far from easy, Lee explains. Only the major investors in a restaurant qualified — and it had to be a \"high grade,\" fancy eatery. These investors had to manage their restaurants full time for at least a year. During that time, they couldn't do any menial work: no cooking, waiting tables or ringing up the cash register, she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lee says Chinese immigrants found ingenious ways to get around these hurdles: They would pool their money to start luxury \"chop suey palaces,\" then each investor would take turns running the joint for a year or 18 months. Once they'd earned merchant status, the investors would use it to bring their relatives over to work in the restaurant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lee explains how it worked: \"Your cousin, your uncle has helped you over and is giving you a job. He's supposed to show you the ropes. Then you move up the hierarchy until you earn the money to be a partner in your own restaurant.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lee's research focused on New York City (she's writing a book about the rise of restaurants there in the 19th and early 20th centuries). But she says the immigration dynamics were similar in other urban centers with large Chinese communities, like Chicago and San Francisco.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_107083\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/chopsuey_custom.jpg\" alt=\"A view of New York City's Chinatown in the 1930s. Between 1910 and 1920, the number of Chinese restaurants in New York quadrupled, and it more than doubled between 1920 and 1930, according to legal historian Heather Lee. \" width=\"300\" height=\"413\" class=\"size-full wp-image-107083\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A view of New York City's Chinatown in the 1930s. Between 1910 and 1920, the number of Chinese restaurants in New York quadrupled, and it more than doubled between 1920 and 1930, according to legal historian Heather Lee. \u003ccite>(Keystone-France/Gamma-Keystone via Getty Images )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In order to make these schemes work, Chinese restaurateurs also had to loop in the white vendors they worked with: Lee says Chinese immigrants had to have two white witnesses support their visa applications. In practice, she says, this turned into a quid pro quo situation: A small group of white vendors would secure the restaurants' business, and in exchange, they'd vouch for the investors. \"I found the same six vendors' names over and over again\" on old immigration documents, she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's quite a different story than [the usual explanation] about why Chinese were opening restaurants during that period,\" Lee tells me.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That standard explanation points to a confluence of cultural forces. For one thing, as historian \u003ca href=\"http://cup.columbia.edu/book/chop-suey-usa/9780231168922\">Yong Chen notes\u003c/a> in \u003cem>Chop Suey\u003c/em>, \u003cem>USA,\u003c/em> Chinese food's cheapness made it an affordable luxury and helped democratize the dining out experience.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The late hours observed by Chinese restaurants were also a draw — especially to bohemians, whose patronage lent these establishments a certain cachet. By 1910, \"going out for chop suey made middle-class Americans feel pleasantly naughty,\" write Lisa Stoffer and Michael Lesy in \u003cem>Repast\u003c/em>, their history of dining out during that era.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cultural historians also tell of the rise of \"slumming parties\" — groups of well-heeled suburbanites and out-of-towners in New York who'd pay for tours of Chinatown, where the supposed \"depravity\" of the place was the main attraction. And some point to New York Jews who shook off the old country and \u003ca href=\"http://www.haaretz.com/jewish/features/1.633512\">embraced Chinese food\u003c/a> as a sign of their own modernity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All of these factors played a role, Lee says, but they're not the whole story. \"While going to Chinese restaurants did play into an emerging worldview, what's really under-recognized is the primary motivation for the Chinese,\" Lee tells us.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That motivation was the same then as what still drives many immigrants in America today: to save, get ahead and send money to family back home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Copyright \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a> 2016. \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Americans craving kung pao chicken or a good lo mein for dinner have plenty of options: The U.S. is home to more than 40,000 Chinese restaurants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One could think of this proliferation as a promise fulfilled — America as the great melting pot and land of opportunity for immigrants. Ironically, the legal forces that made this Chinese culinary profusion possible, beginning in the early 20th century, were born of altogether different sentiments: racism and xenophobia.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Anti-Chinese sentiment was rampant in America in the early 20th century — and had been since the latter half of the 19th century, when \u003ca href=\"http://www.migrationpolicy.org/article/chinese-immigrants-united-states\">as many as 300,000 Chinese\u003c/a> miners, farmers, railroad and factory workers came to the U.S. Many non-Chinese workers felt threatened by these laborers, who often worked for lower wages.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Amid mounting social tensions, the U.S. passed immigration laws that explicitly barred Chinese laborers from immigrating or becoming U.S. citizens, and made it extremely difficult for even legal residents to re-enter the U.S. after a visit home to China. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_107081\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 760px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/interiorchineserestaurant.jpg\" alt=\"The interior of a Chinese restaurant in San Francisco, circa 1880.\" width=\"760\" height=\"397\" class=\"size-full wp-image-107081\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/interiorchineserestaurant.jpg 760w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/interiorchineserestaurant-400x209.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The interior of a Chinese restaurant in San Francisco, circa 1880. \u003ccite>( The Miriam and Ira D. Wallach Division of Art, Prints and Photographs: Photography Collection,The New York Public Library )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>But, as MIT legal historian \u003ca href=\"http://www.scholarsstrategynetwork.org/scholar/heather-r-lee\">Heather Lee\u003c/a> tells it, there was an important exception to these laws: Some Chinese business owners in the U.S. could get special merchant visas that allowed them to travel to China, and bring back employees. Only a few types of businesses qualified for this status. In 1915, a federal court added restaurants to that list. Voila! A restaurant boom was born.\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The number of Chinese restaurants in the U.S. doubles from 1910 to 1920, and doubles again from 1920 to 1930,\" says Lee, referring to research done by economist \u003ca href=\"http://economics.ucr.edu/people/profemer/carter.html\">Susan Carter\u003c/a>. In New York City alone, Lee found that the number of Chinese eateries quadrupled between 1910 and 1920.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lee was digging through old immigration records in 2011, as part of her doctoral dissertation, when she discovered evidence that this legal change had fueled a rise in restaurants. She found a flood of applications from Chinese immigrants after 1915 seeking merchant status to start up restaurant businesses, along with applications from others brought over to work in these establishments.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Prior to the restaurant loophole, Lee says, most Chinese immigrants in America worked in laundries — they were excluded from better-paying options. But by 1930, they were more likely to be toiling in eating establishments. \"The scale of it increases astronomically,\" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_107084\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/1904menu_custom.jpg\" alt=\"The menu for a Chinese restaurant in New York City, 1904. At the turn of the 20th century, the cheapness of Chinese food and late hours observed by Chinese restaurants were a draw – especially for bohemians, whose patronage lent these establishments a certain cachet. \" width=\"300\" height=\"427\" class=\"size-full wp-image-107084\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The menu for a Chinese restaurant in New York City, 1904. At the turn of the 20th century, the cheapness of Chinese food and late hours observed by Chinese restaurants were a draw – especially for bohemians, whose patronage lent these establishments a certain cachet. \u003ccite>(Rare Book Division, The New York Public Library )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Many Chinese immigrants to the U.S. were men who had come alone: They were here to earn money to support families back home, not to settle down permanently. Once in the U.S., however, it was all but impossible for them to travel back to visit loved ones in China. After 1915, the visas that came with working in a restaurant became bridges to families and friends back in China, Lee says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It was really important for [these men] to be able to move back and forth, to get married and retire someday. That was the idea. These special visas were critically important,\" Lee says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even so, getting a special merchant visa was far from easy, Lee explains. Only the major investors in a restaurant qualified — and it had to be a \"high grade,\" fancy eatery. These investors had to manage their restaurants full time for at least a year. During that time, they couldn't do any menial work: no cooking, waiting tables or ringing up the cash register, she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lee says Chinese immigrants found ingenious ways to get around these hurdles: They would pool their money to start luxury \"chop suey palaces,\" then each investor would take turns running the joint for a year or 18 months. Once they'd earned merchant status, the investors would use it to bring their relatives over to work in the restaurant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lee explains how it worked: \"Your cousin, your uncle has helped you over and is giving you a job. He's supposed to show you the ropes. Then you move up the hierarchy until you earn the money to be a partner in your own restaurant.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lee's research focused on New York City (she's writing a book about the rise of restaurants there in the 19th and early 20th centuries). But she says the immigration dynamics were similar in other urban centers with large Chinese communities, like Chicago and San Francisco.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_107083\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/chopsuey_custom.jpg\" alt=\"A view of New York City's Chinatown in the 1930s. Between 1910 and 1920, the number of Chinese restaurants in New York quadrupled, and it more than doubled between 1920 and 1930, according to legal historian Heather Lee. \" width=\"300\" height=\"413\" class=\"size-full wp-image-107083\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A view of New York City's Chinatown in the 1930s. Between 1910 and 1920, the number of Chinese restaurants in New York quadrupled, and it more than doubled between 1920 and 1930, according to legal historian Heather Lee. \u003ccite>(Keystone-France/Gamma-Keystone via Getty Images )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In order to make these schemes work, Chinese restaurateurs also had to loop in the white vendors they worked with: Lee says Chinese immigrants had to have two white witnesses support their visa applications. In practice, she says, this turned into a quid pro quo situation: A small group of white vendors would secure the restaurants' business, and in exchange, they'd vouch for the investors. \"I found the same six vendors' names over and over again\" on old immigration documents, she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's quite a different story than [the usual explanation] about why Chinese were opening restaurants during that period,\" Lee tells me.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That standard explanation points to a confluence of cultural forces. For one thing, as historian \u003ca href=\"http://cup.columbia.edu/book/chop-suey-usa/9780231168922\">Yong Chen notes\u003c/a> in \u003cem>Chop Suey\u003c/em>, \u003cem>USA,\u003c/em> Chinese food's cheapness made it an affordable luxury and helped democratize the dining out experience.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The late hours observed by Chinese restaurants were also a draw — especially to bohemians, whose patronage lent these establishments a certain cachet. By 1910, \"going out for chop suey made middle-class Americans feel pleasantly naughty,\" write Lisa Stoffer and Michael Lesy in \u003cem>Repast\u003c/em>, their history of dining out during that era.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cultural historians also tell of the rise of \"slumming parties\" — groups of well-heeled suburbanites and out-of-towners in New York who'd pay for tours of Chinatown, where the supposed \"depravity\" of the place was the main attraction. And some point to New York Jews who shook off the old country and \u003ca href=\"http://www.haaretz.com/jewish/features/1.633512\">embraced Chinese food\u003c/a> as a sign of their own modernity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All of these factors played a role, Lee says, but they're not the whole story. \"While going to Chinese restaurants did play into an emerging worldview, what's really under-recognized is the primary motivation for the Chinese,\" Lee tells us.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That motivation was the same then as what still drives many immigrants in America today: to save, get ahead and send money to family back home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "'No Place For Discontent': A History Of The Family Dinner In America",
"title": "'No Place For Discontent': A History Of The Family Dinner In America",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>In homes across the United States, families sit down around their dining tables to share a meal together known as the Family Dinner. This can be a joyous occasion or a contentious one. Whether you feel warm and fuzzy or grit your teeth at the thought, the family dinner is an opportunity for familial communication that didn't always exist. As dining as a family became an institution in American life, it evolved from being a time for restraint to being a time for expression — an evolution visible in art and film.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Before the late 18th century, it was difficult for American families to dine together regularly, in part because dining rooms and dining tables were not yet a thing. Rooms and tables had multiple uses, and families would eat in shifts, if necessary. If there weren't enough chairs for all members of the family, the men would sit and the women and children might stand, coming and going from the table. (Blame the patriarchy.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The rise of the American family dinner depended upon the arrival of the dining table, and the dining room, from Europe, where they had been embraced since Elizabethan times. One of the first American homes to have a room specifically meant for dining was Thomas Jefferson's Monticello, built in 1772. The dining room, with the dining table at its center, began to be incorporated into wealthy homes across the country, eventually trickling down to the middle class.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>From the mid-19th century onward, the dining room was used as a place to cultivate a sense of family. Now that there was a designated space (and enough chairs around the table) for families to dine together, there were also designated family meal times — which Victorian parents used to educate their children on religion, conversation and table manners.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Laid upon the dining table was an expectation that all family members be agreeable, pious and unified. From the Victorian era through the 1950s, this idealistic notion was impressed upon Americans. In 1943, the sociologist James H.S. Bossard wrote that \"it is at the dining table, and particularly at dinner time, that the family is apt to be at its greatest ease.\" The same year, \u003cem>The Saturday Evening Post\u003c/em> published Norman Rockwell's \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.saturdayeveningpost.com/2011/11/22/art-entertainment/leyendecker-rockwell-thanksgiving.html\">Freedom from Want\u003c/a>\u003c/em>, in which a family dining around a Thanksgiving table represents the strength of American values during World War II. The painted subjects not only have food, but are almost relentlessly happy, smiling pointedly at each other and the viewer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The 1950s emphasized the importance of a happy nuclear family. And what better place to showcase it than at a dining room table? Father sits at the head of the table; mother is at the opposite end. They're flanked by their docile children, as shown on TV shows like \u003cem>Leave It To Beaver\u003c/em> and \u003cem>Father Knows Best\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XEtaaW3UFZA\">\u003cem>A Date With Your Family\u003c/em>,\u003c/a> a '50s instructional film, provides a disturbing peek into the era's rigid rules for dining with Mom and Dad. Mother and daughter switch into nice attire for the meal, because, the narrator tells us, \"the women of this family seem to feel that they owe it to the men of the family to look relaxed, rested and attractive.\" To avoid any distress, one must stick to his or her assigned role, which of course requires a lot of suppression. As the narrator states, \"the table is no place for discontent.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://youtu.be/XEtaaW3UFZA\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This film makes dinners full of arguments and outbursts seem like a breath of fresh air. Thankfully, angst-ridden family dinners couldn't be stamped out completely. Even Bossard acknowledged that, \"There are families in which few meals are completed ... without some member leaving the table in tears, anger, or disgrace.\" While many enjoy their time with family at the dinner table, it is also a space where one can freely air one's grievances to other family members. These kinds of dinners are accepted — and even celebrated — by a modern sensibility.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For example, artist Louise Bourgeois' 1974 sculpture \u003cem>The Destruction of the Father \u003c/em>represents a violent reaction to the kind of dinner idealized in \u003cem>A Date with Your Family\u003c/em>. As Bourgeois frequently described the work:\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_106916\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/destructionofthefather_enl-dd0ddb4ca38f417a626eea0fb915274a671fe788.jpg\" alt=\"The Destruction of The Father, a 1974 sculpture by Louise Bourgeois, represents a sort of violent reaction to the kind of idealized family dinner popularized in 1950s American media.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1328\" class=\"size-full wp-image-106916\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/destructionofthefather_enl-dd0ddb4ca38f417a626eea0fb915274a671fe788.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/destructionofthefather_enl-dd0ddb4ca38f417a626eea0fb915274a671fe788-400x266.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/destructionofthefather_enl-dd0ddb4ca38f417a626eea0fb915274a671fe788-800x531.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/destructionofthefather_enl-dd0ddb4ca38f417a626eea0fb915274a671fe788-768x510.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/destructionofthefather_enl-dd0ddb4ca38f417a626eea0fb915274a671fe788-1440x956.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/destructionofthefather_enl-dd0ddb4ca38f417a626eea0fb915274a671fe788-1180x784.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/destructionofthefather_enl-dd0ddb4ca38f417a626eea0fb915274a671fe788-960x637.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Destruction of The Father, a 1974 sculpture by Louise Bourgeois, represents a sort of violent reaction to the kind of idealized family dinner popularized in 1950s American media. \u003ccite>(Stephane De Sakutin/AFP/Getty Images )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003cp>\"This piece is basically a table, the awful, terrifying family dinner table headed by the father who sits and gloats. ... The mother, of course, tries to satisfy the tyrant, her husband. The children are full of exasperation. ... So in exasperation we grabbed the man, threw him onto the table, dismembered him and proceeded to devour him.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Anti-patriarchal cannibalism may not occur at most tables, but everyone can relate to a mid-dinner outburst.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Film and television also revel in the less-than-docile nature of modern family dinners, which make for perfect theater. Take, for example, \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ldlo1P3PIgs\">the tense dinner scene in \u003cem>American Beauty\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, or \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sGK_uL3OeBU\">family dinner scenes in \u003cem>The Sopranos\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, which rarely pass without a disagreement of some kind. Victorian Americans may not have envisioned this kind of behavior when they made the dining table a pillar of social values, but the beauty of the family dinner is that, time and again, it proves that family dynamics cannot be controlled. The dining table has become a stage for all kinds of human emotion — even discontent.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Mackensie Griffin writes about the history of food and the dining table. \u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2016 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "The dining room, with the dining table at its center, didn't catch on in America before the late 1700s. These rooms — and the family meals held in them — became a place to cultivate social values.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>In homes across the United States, families sit down around their dining tables to share a meal together known as the Family Dinner. This can be a joyous occasion or a contentious one. Whether you feel warm and fuzzy or grit your teeth at the thought, the family dinner is an opportunity for familial communication that didn't always exist. As dining as a family became an institution in American life, it evolved from being a time for restraint to being a time for expression — an evolution visible in art and film.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Before the late 18th century, it was difficult for American families to dine together regularly, in part because dining rooms and dining tables were not yet a thing. Rooms and tables had multiple uses, and families would eat in shifts, if necessary. If there weren't enough chairs for all members of the family, the men would sit and the women and children might stand, coming and going from the table. (Blame the patriarchy.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The rise of the American family dinner depended upon the arrival of the dining table, and the dining room, from Europe, where they had been embraced since Elizabethan times. One of the first American homes to have a room specifically meant for dining was Thomas Jefferson's Monticello, built in 1772. The dining room, with the dining table at its center, began to be incorporated into wealthy homes across the country, eventually trickling down to the middle class.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>From the mid-19th century onward, the dining room was used as a place to cultivate a sense of family. Now that there was a designated space (and enough chairs around the table) for families to dine together, there were also designated family meal times — which Victorian parents used to educate their children on religion, conversation and table manners.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Laid upon the dining table was an expectation that all family members be agreeable, pious and unified. From the Victorian era through the 1950s, this idealistic notion was impressed upon Americans. In 1943, the sociologist James H.S. Bossard wrote that \"it is at the dining table, and particularly at dinner time, that the family is apt to be at its greatest ease.\" The same year, \u003cem>The Saturday Evening Post\u003c/em> published Norman Rockwell's \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.saturdayeveningpost.com/2011/11/22/art-entertainment/leyendecker-rockwell-thanksgiving.html\">Freedom from Want\u003c/a>\u003c/em>, in which a family dining around a Thanksgiving table represents the strength of American values during World War II. The painted subjects not only have food, but are almost relentlessly happy, smiling pointedly at each other and the viewer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The 1950s emphasized the importance of a happy nuclear family. And what better place to showcase it than at a dining room table? Father sits at the head of the table; mother is at the opposite end. They're flanked by their docile children, as shown on TV shows like \u003cem>Leave It To Beaver\u003c/em> and \u003cem>Father Knows Best\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XEtaaW3UFZA\">\u003cem>A Date With Your Family\u003c/em>,\u003c/a> a '50s instructional film, provides a disturbing peek into the era's rigid rules for dining with Mom and Dad. Mother and daughter switch into nice attire for the meal, because, the narrator tells us, \"the women of this family seem to feel that they owe it to the men of the family to look relaxed, rested and attractive.\" To avoid any distress, one must stick to his or her assigned role, which of course requires a lot of suppression. As the narrator states, \"the table is no place for discontent.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/XEtaaW3UFZA'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/XEtaaW3UFZA'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cp>This film makes dinners full of arguments and outbursts seem like a breath of fresh air. Thankfully, angst-ridden family dinners couldn't be stamped out completely. Even Bossard acknowledged that, \"There are families in which few meals are completed ... without some member leaving the table in tears, anger, or disgrace.\" While many enjoy their time with family at the dinner table, it is also a space where one can freely air one's grievances to other family members. These kinds of dinners are accepted — and even celebrated — by a modern sensibility.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For example, artist Louise Bourgeois' 1974 sculpture \u003cem>The Destruction of the Father \u003c/em>represents a violent reaction to the kind of dinner idealized in \u003cem>A Date with Your Family\u003c/em>. As Bourgeois frequently described the work:\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_106916\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/destructionofthefather_enl-dd0ddb4ca38f417a626eea0fb915274a671fe788.jpg\" alt=\"The Destruction of The Father, a 1974 sculpture by Louise Bourgeois, represents a sort of violent reaction to the kind of idealized family dinner popularized in 1950s American media.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1328\" class=\"size-full wp-image-106916\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/destructionofthefather_enl-dd0ddb4ca38f417a626eea0fb915274a671fe788.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/destructionofthefather_enl-dd0ddb4ca38f417a626eea0fb915274a671fe788-400x266.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/destructionofthefather_enl-dd0ddb4ca38f417a626eea0fb915274a671fe788-800x531.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/destructionofthefather_enl-dd0ddb4ca38f417a626eea0fb915274a671fe788-768x510.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/destructionofthefather_enl-dd0ddb4ca38f417a626eea0fb915274a671fe788-1440x956.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/destructionofthefather_enl-dd0ddb4ca38f417a626eea0fb915274a671fe788-1180x784.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/destructionofthefather_enl-dd0ddb4ca38f417a626eea0fb915274a671fe788-960x637.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Destruction of The Father, a 1974 sculpture by Louise Bourgeois, represents a sort of violent reaction to the kind of idealized family dinner popularized in 1950s American media. \u003ccite>(Stephane De Sakutin/AFP/Getty Images )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003cp>\"This piece is basically a table, the awful, terrifying family dinner table headed by the father who sits and gloats. ... The mother, of course, tries to satisfy the tyrant, her husband. The children are full of exasperation. ... So in exasperation we grabbed the man, threw him onto the table, dismembered him and proceeded to devour him.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Anti-patriarchal cannibalism may not occur at most tables, but everyone can relate to a mid-dinner outburst.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Film and television also revel in the less-than-docile nature of modern family dinners, which make for perfect theater. Take, for example, \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ldlo1P3PIgs\">the tense dinner scene in \u003cem>American Beauty\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, or \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sGK_uL3OeBU\">family dinner scenes in \u003cem>The Sopranos\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, which rarely pass without a disagreement of some kind. Victorian Americans may not have envisioned this kind of behavior when they made the dining table a pillar of social values, but the beauty of the family dinner is that, time and again, it proves that family dynamics cannot be controlled. The dining table has become a stage for all kinds of human emotion — even discontent.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Mackensie Griffin writes about the history of food and the dining table. \u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2016 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"info": "Every week, The California Report Magazine takes you on a road trip for the ears: to visit the places and meet the people who make California unique. The in-depth storytelling podcast from the California Report.",
"airtime": "FRI 4:30pm-5pm, 6:30pm-7pm, 11pm-11:30pm",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "/californiareportmagazine",
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"order": 10
},
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},
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"id": "city-arts",
"title": "City Arts & Lectures",
"info": "A one-hour radio program to hear celebrated writers, artists and thinkers address contemporary ideas and values, often discussing the creative process. Please note: tapes or transcripts are not available",
"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/05/cityartsandlecture-300x300.jpg",
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"airtime": "SUN 1pm-2pm, TUE 10pm, WED 1am",
"meta": {
"site": "news",
"source": "City Arts & Lectures"
},
"link": "https://www.cityarts.net",
"subscribe": {
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"rss": "https://www.cityarts.net/feed/"
}
},
"closealltabs": {
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"info": "Close All Tabs breaks down how digital culture shapes our world through thoughtful insights and irreverent humor.",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "/podcasts/closealltabs",
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"order": 1
},
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"title": "Code Switch / Life Kit",
"info": "\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em>, which listeners will hear in the first part of the hour, has fearless and much-needed conversations about race. Hosted by journalists of color, the show tackles the subject of race head-on, exploring how it impacts every part of society — from politics and pop culture to history, sports and more.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em>, which will be in the second part of the hour, guides you through spaces and feelings no one prepares you for — from finances to mental health, from workplace microaggressions to imposter syndrome, from relationships to parenting. The show features experts with real world experience and shares their knowledge. Because everyone needs a little help being human.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/510312/codeswitch\">\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/lifekit\">\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />",
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"meta": {
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cubnByLm9yZy9yc3MvcG9kY2FzdC5waHA_aWQ9NTEwMzEy",
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"id": "commonwealth-club",
"title": "Commonwealth Club of California Podcast",
"info": "The Commonwealth Club of California is the nation's oldest and largest public affairs forum. As a non-partisan forum, The Club brings to the public airwaves diverse viewpoints on important topics. The Club's weekly radio broadcast - the oldest in the U.S., dating back to 1924 - is carried across the nation on public radio stations and is now podcasting. Our website archive features audio of our recent programs, as well as selected speeches from our long and distinguished history. This podcast feed is usually updated twice a week and is always un-edited.",
"airtime": "THU 10pm, FRI 1am",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Commonwealth-Club-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
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"meta": {
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"source": "Commonwealth Club of California"
},
"link": "/radio/program/commonwealth-club",
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cDovL3d3dy5jb21tb253ZWFsdGhjbHViLm9yZy9hdWRpby9wb2RjYXN0L3dlZWtseS54bWw",
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},
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"id": "forum",
"title": "Forum",
"tagline": "The conversation starts here",
"info": "KQED’s live call-in program discussing local, state, national and international issues, as well as in-depth interviews.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 9am-11am, 10pm-11pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Forum-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
"imageAlt": "KQED Forum with Mina Kim and Alexis Madrigal",
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"source": "kqed",
"order": 9
},
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM5NTU3MzgxNjMz",
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"id": "freakonomics-radio",
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"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/05/freakonomicsRadio.png",
"officialWebsiteLink": "http://freakonomics.com/",
"airtime": "SUN 1am-2am, SAT 3pm-4pm",
"meta": {
"site": "radio",
"source": "WNYC"
},
"link": "/radio/program/freakonomics-radio",
"subscribe": {
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/freakonomics-radio/id354668519",
"tuneIn": "https://tunein.com/podcasts/WNYC-Podcasts/Freakonomics-Radio-p272293/",
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},
"fresh-air": {
"id": "fresh-air",
"title": "Fresh Air",
"info": "Hosted by Terry Gross, \u003cem>Fresh Air from WHYY\u003c/em> is the Peabody Award-winning weekday magazine of contemporary arts and issues. One of public radio's most popular programs, Fresh Air features intimate conversations with today's biggest luminaries.",
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=214089682&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory",
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"rss": "https://feeds.npr.org/381444908/podcast.xml"
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"info": "A live production of NPR and WBUR Boston, in collaboration with stations across the country, Here & Now reflects the fluid world of news as it's happening in the middle of the day, with timely, in-depth news, interviews and conversation. Hosted by Robin Young, Jeremy Hobson and Tonya Mosley.",
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"rss": "https://feeds.npr.org/510051/podcast.xml"
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},
"hidden-brain": {
"id": "hidden-brain",
"title": "Hidden Brain",
"info": "Shankar Vedantam uses science and storytelling to reveal the unconscious patterns that drive human behavior, shape our choices and direct our relationships.",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.npr.org/series/423302056/hidden-brain",
"airtime": "SUN 7pm-8pm",
"meta": {
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"source": "NPR"
},
"link": "/radio/program/hidden-brain",
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},
"how-i-built-this": {
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"title": "How I Built This with Guy Raz",
"info": "Guy Raz dives into the stories behind some of the world's best known companies. How I Built This weaves a narrative journey about innovators, entrepreneurs and idealists—and the movements they built.",
"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/05/howIBuiltThis.png",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.npr.org/podcasts/510313/how-i-built-this",
"airtime": "SUN 7:30pm-8pm",
"meta": {
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"source": "npr"
},
"link": "/radio/program/how-i-built-this",
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"npr": "https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/3zxy",
"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/how-i-built-this-with-guy-raz/id1150510297?mt=2",
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"hyphenacion": {
"id": "hyphenacion",
"title": "Hyphenación",
"tagline": "Where conversation and cultura meet",
"info": "What kind of no sabo word is Hyphenación? For us, it’s about living within a hyphenation. Like being a third-gen Mexican-American from the Texas border now living that Bay Area Chicano life. Like Xorje! Each week we bring together a couple of hyphenated Latinos to talk all about personal life choices: family, careers, relationships, belonging … everything is on the table. ",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2025/03/Hyphenacion_FinalAssets_PodcastTile.png",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "/podcasts/hyphenacion",
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"order": 15
},
"link": "/podcasts/hyphenacion",
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"spotify": "https://open.spotify.com/show/2p3Fifq96nw9BPcmFdIq0o?si=39209f7b25774f38",
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},
"jerrybrown": {
"id": "jerrybrown",
"title": "The Political Mind of Jerry Brown",
"tagline": "Lessons from a lifetime in politics",
"info": "The Political Mind of Jerry Brown brings listeners the wisdom of the former Governor, Mayor, and presidential candidate. Scott Shafer interviewed Brown for more than 40 hours, covering the former governor's life and half-century in the political game – and Brown has some lessons he'd like to share. ",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/The-Political-Mind-of-Jerry-Brown-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "/podcasts/jerrybrown",
"meta": {
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"source": "kqed",
"order": 18
},
"link": "/podcasts/jerrybrown",
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}
},
"latino-usa": {
"id": "latino-usa",
"title": "Latino USA",
"airtime": "MON 1am-2am, SUN 6pm-7pm",
"info": "Latino USA, the radio journal of news and culture, is the only national, English-language radio program produced from a Latino perspective.",
"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/latinoUsa.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "http://latinousa.org/",
"meta": {
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},
"link": "/radio/program/latino-usa",
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=79681317&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory",
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"rss": "https://feeds.npr.org/510016/podcast.xml"
}
},
"marketplace": {
"id": "marketplace",
"title": "Marketplace",
"info": "Our flagship program, helmed by Kai Ryssdal, examines what the day in money delivered, through stories, conversations, newsworthy numbers and more. Updated Monday through Friday at about 3:30 p.m. PT.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 4pm-4:30pm, MON-WED 6:30pm-7pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Marketplace-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.marketplace.org/",
"meta": {
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"source": "American Public Media"
},
"link": "/radio/program/marketplace",
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"rss": "https://feeds.publicradio.org/public_feeds/marketplace-pm/rss/rss"
}
},
"masters-of-scale": {
"id": "masters-of-scale",
"title": "Masters of Scale",
"info": "Masters of Scale is an original podcast in which LinkedIn co-founder and Greylock Partner Reid Hoffman sets out to describe and prove theories that explain how great entrepreneurs take their companies from zero to a gazillion in ingenious fashion.",
"airtime": "Every other Wednesday June 12 through October 16 at 8pm (repeats Thursdays at 2am)",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "https://mastersofscale.com/",
"meta": {
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"source": "WaitWhat"
},
"link": "/radio/program/masters-of-scale",
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"apple": "http://mastersofscale.app.link/",
"rss": "https://rss.art19.com/masters-of-scale"
}
},
"mindshift": {
"id": "mindshift",
"title": "MindShift",
"tagline": "A podcast about the future of learning and how we raise our kids",
"info": "The MindShift podcast explores the innovations in education that are shaping how kids learn. Hosts Ki Sung and Katrina Schwartz introduce listeners to educators, researchers, parents and students who are developing effective ways to improve how kids learn. We cover topics like how fed-up administrators are developing surprising tactics to deal with classroom disruptions; how listening to podcasts are helping kids develop reading skills; the consequences of overparenting; and why interdisciplinary learning can engage students on all ends of the traditional achievement spectrum. This podcast is part of the MindShift education site, a division of KQED News. KQED is an NPR/PBS member station based in San Francisco. You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Mindshift-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
"imageAlt": "KQED MindShift: How We Will Learn",
"officialWebsiteLink": "/mindshift/",
"meta": {
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"source": "kqed",
"order": 12
},
"link": "/podcasts/mindshift",
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM1NzY0NjAwNDI5",
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}
},
"morning-edition": {
"id": "morning-edition",
"title": "Morning Edition",
"info": "\u003cem>Morning Edition\u003c/em> takes listeners around the country and the world with multi-faceted stories and commentaries every weekday. Hosts Steve Inskeep, David Greene and Rachel Martin bring you the latest breaking news and features to prepare you for the day.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 3am-9am",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Morning-Edition-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.npr.org/programs/morning-edition/",
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"link": "/radio/program/morning-edition"
},
"onourwatch": {
"id": "onourwatch",
"title": "On Our Watch",
"tagline": "Deeply-reported investigative journalism",
"info": "For decades, the process for how police police themselves has been inconsistent – if not opaque. In some states, like California, these proceedings were completely hidden. After a new police transparency law unsealed scores of internal affairs files, our reporters set out to examine these cases and the shadow world of police discipline. On Our Watch brings listeners into the rooms where officers are questioned and witnesses are interrogated to find out who this system is really protecting. Is it the officers, or the public they've sworn to serve?",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/On-Our-Watch-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
"imageAlt": "On Our Watch from NPR and KQED",
"officialWebsiteLink": "/podcasts/onourwatch",
"meta": {
"site": "news",
"source": "kqed",
"order": 11
},
"link": "/podcasts/onourwatch",
"subscribe": {
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5ucHIub3JnLzUxMDM2MC9wb2RjYXN0LnhtbD9zYz1nb29nbGVwb2RjYXN0cw",
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}
},
"on-the-media": {
"id": "on-the-media",
"title": "On The Media",
"info": "Our weekly podcast explores how the media 'sausage' is made, casts an incisive eye on fluctuations in the marketplace of ideas, and examines threats to the freedom of information and expression in America and abroad. For one hour a week, the show tries to lift the veil from the process of \"making media,\" especially news media, because it's through that lens that we see the world and the world sees us",
"airtime": "SUN 2pm-3pm, MON 12am-1am",
"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/onTheMedia.png",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.wnycstudios.org/shows/otm",
"meta": {
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"source": "wnyc"
},
"link": "/radio/program/on-the-media",
"subscribe": {
"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/on-the-media/id73330715?mt=2",
"tuneIn": "https://tunein.com/radio/On-the-Media-p69/",
"rss": "http://feeds.wnyc.org/onthemedia"
}
},
"pbs-newshour": {
"id": "pbs-newshour",
"title": "PBS NewsHour",
"info": "Analysis, background reports and updates from the PBS NewsHour putting today's news in context.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 3pm-4pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/PBS-News-Hour-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.pbs.org/newshour/",
"meta": {
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"source": "pbs"
},
"link": "/radio/program/pbs-newshour",
"subscribe": {
"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/pbs-newshour-full-show/id394432287?mt=2",
"tuneIn": "https://tunein.com/radio/PBS-NewsHour---Full-Show-p425698/",
"rss": "https://www.pbs.org/newshour/feeds/rss/podcasts/show"
}
},
"perspectives": {
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