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"disqusTitle": "'Paradise Lost': How The Apple Became The Forbidden Fruit",
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"content": "\u003cp>This month marks 350 years since John Milton sold his publisher the copyright of \u003cem>Paradise Lost \u003c/em>for the sum of five pounds.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>His great work dramatizes the oldest story in the Bible, whose principal characters we know only too well: God, Adam, Eve, Satan in the form of a talking snake — and an apple.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Except, of course, that Genesis never names the apple but simply refers to \"the fruit.\" To quote from the King James Bible:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>And the woman said to the serpent, \"We may eat the fruit of the trees of the garden; but of the fruit of the tree which is in the midst of the garden, God has said, 'You shall not eat it, nor shall you touch it, lest you die.'\"\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\"Fruit\" is also the word Milton employs in the poem's sonorous opening lines:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Of Mans First Disobedience, and the Fruit\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Of that Forbidden Tree, whose mortal taste\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Brought Death into the World, and all our woe\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>But in the course of his over-10,000-line poem, Milton names the fruit twice, explicitly calling it an apple. So how did the apple become the guilty fruit that brought death into this world and all our woe?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The short and unexpected answer is: a Latin pun.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In order to explain, we have to go all the way back to the fourth century A.D., when Pope Damasus ordered his leading scholar of scripture, Jerome, to translate the Hebrew Bible into Latin. Jerome's path-breaking, 15-year project, which resulted in the canonical \u003cem>Vulgate, \u003c/em>used the Latin spoken by the common man. As it turned out, the Latin words for evil and apple are the same: malus.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the Hebrew Bible, a generic term, \u003cem>peri\u003c/em>, is used for the fruit hanging from the Tree of the Knowledge of Good and Evil, explains Robert Appelbaum, who discusses the biblical provenance of the apple in his book \u003cem>Aguecheek's Beef, Belch's Hiccup, and Other Gastronomic Interjections. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Peri could be absolutely any fruit,\" he says. \"Rabbinic commentators variously characterized it as a fig, a pomegranate, a grape, an apricot, a citron, or even wheat. Some commentators even thought of the forbidden fruit as a kind of wine, intoxicating to drink.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117034\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 987px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/michelangelo_su-ndenfall_custom-75a1def1ba3fc8edaa8a96c81853c04e62b764af-s1500-c85.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/michelangelo_su-ndenfall_custom-75a1def1ba3fc8edaa8a96c81853c04e62b764af-s1500-c85.jpg\" alt=\"A detail of Michelangelo's fresco in the Vatican's Sistine Chapel depicting the Fall of Man and expulsion from the Garden of Eden\" width=\"987\" height=\"460\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117034\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/michelangelo_su-ndenfall_custom-75a1def1ba3fc8edaa8a96c81853c04e62b764af-s1500-c85.jpg 987w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/michelangelo_su-ndenfall_custom-75a1def1ba3fc8edaa8a96c81853c04e62b764af-s1500-c85-160x75.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/michelangelo_su-ndenfall_custom-75a1def1ba3fc8edaa8a96c81853c04e62b764af-s1500-c85-800x373.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/michelangelo_su-ndenfall_custom-75a1def1ba3fc8edaa8a96c81853c04e62b764af-s1500-c85-768x358.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/michelangelo_su-ndenfall_custom-75a1def1ba3fc8edaa8a96c81853c04e62b764af-s1500-c85-960x447.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/michelangelo_su-ndenfall_custom-75a1def1ba3fc8edaa8a96c81853c04e62b764af-s1500-c85-240x112.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/michelangelo_su-ndenfall_custom-75a1def1ba3fc8edaa8a96c81853c04e62b764af-s1500-c85-375x175.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/michelangelo_su-ndenfall_custom-75a1def1ba3fc8edaa8a96c81853c04e62b764af-s1500-c85-520x242.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 987px) 100vw, 987px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A detail of Michelangelo's fresco in the Vatican's Sistine Chapel depicting the Fall of Man and expulsion from the Garden of Eden \u003ccite>(Wikipedia)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>When Jerome was translating the \"Tree of the Knowledge of Good and Evil,\" the word \u003cem>malus \u003c/em>snaked in. A brilliant but controversial theologian, Jerome was known for his hot temper, but he obviously also had a rather cool sense of humor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Jerome had several options,\" says Appelbaum, a professor of English literature at Sweden's Uppsala University. \"But he hit upon the idea of translating \u003cem>peri\u003c/em> as \u003cem>malus\u003c/em>, which in Latin has two very different meanings. As an adjective, \u003cem>malus\u003c/em> means bad or evil. As a noun it seems to means an apple, in our own sense of the word, coming from the very common tree now known officially as the \u003cem>Malus pumila\u003c/em>. So Jerome came up with a very good pun.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The story doesn't end there. \"To complicate things even more,\" says Appelbaum, \"the word \u003cem>malus\u003c/em> in Jerome's time, and for a long time after, could refer to any fleshy seed-bearing fruit. A pear was a kind of \u003cem>malus.\u003c/em> So was the fig, the peach, and so forth.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Which explains why Michelangelo's Sistine Chapel fresco features a serpent coiled around a fig tree. But the apple began to dominate Fall artworks in Europe after the German artist Albrecht Dürer's famous 1504 engraving depicted the First Couple counterpoised beside an apple tree. It became a template for future artists such as Lucas Cranach the Elder, whose luminous \u003cem>Adam and Eve\u003c/em> painting is hung with apples that glow like rubies.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117035\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 600px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/lucas_cranach_the_elder_-_adam_und_eva_im_paradies_-su-ndenfall-_-_google_art_project_custom-2a6ba2ef87467f1e7e8d41d9b11d05c6d44ce118-s600-c85.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/lucas_cranach_the_elder_-_adam_und_eva_im_paradies_-su-ndenfall-_-_google_art_project_custom-2a6ba2ef87467f1e7e8d41d9b11d05c6d44ce118-s600-c85.jpg\" alt=\"Eve giving Adam the forbidden fruit, by Lucas Cranach the Elder.\" width=\"600\" height=\"883\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117035\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/lucas_cranach_the_elder_-_adam_und_eva_im_paradies_-su-ndenfall-_-_google_art_project_custom-2a6ba2ef87467f1e7e8d41d9b11d05c6d44ce118-s600-c85.jpg 600w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/lucas_cranach_the_elder_-_adam_und_eva_im_paradies_-su-ndenfall-_-_google_art_project_custom-2a6ba2ef87467f1e7e8d41d9b11d05c6d44ce118-s600-c85-160x235.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/lucas_cranach_the_elder_-_adam_und_eva_im_paradies_-su-ndenfall-_-_google_art_project_custom-2a6ba2ef87467f1e7e8d41d9b11d05c6d44ce118-s600-c85-240x353.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/lucas_cranach_the_elder_-_adam_und_eva_im_paradies_-su-ndenfall-_-_google_art_project_custom-2a6ba2ef87467f1e7e8d41d9b11d05c6d44ce118-s600-c85-375x552.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/lucas_cranach_the_elder_-_adam_und_eva_im_paradies_-su-ndenfall-_-_google_art_project_custom-2a6ba2ef87467f1e7e8d41d9b11d05c6d44ce118-s600-c85-520x765.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Eve giving Adam the forbidden fruit, by Lucas Cranach the Elder. \u003ccite>(Wikipedia)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Milton, then, was only following cultural tradition. But he was a renowned Cambridge intellectual fluent in Latin, Greek and Hebrew, who served as secretary for foreign tongues to Oliver Cromwell during the Commonwealth. If anyone was aware of the \u003cem>malus\u003c/em> pun, it would be him. And yet he chose to run it with it. Why?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Appelbaum says that Milton's use of the term \"apple\" was ambiguous. \"Even in Milton's time the word had two meanings: either what was our common apple, or, again, any fleshy seed-bearing fruit. Milton probably had in mind an ambiguously named object with a variety of connotations as well as denotations, most but not all of them associating the idea of the apple with a kind of innocence, though also with a kind of intoxication, since hard apple cider was a common English drink.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was only later readers of Milton, says Appelbaum, who thought of \"apple\" as \"apple\" and not any seed-bearing fruit. For them, the forbidden fruit became synonymous with the \u003cem>malus pumila. \u003c/em>As a widely read canonical work, \u003cem>Paradise Lost\u003c/em> was influential in cementing the role of apple in the Fall story.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But whether the forbidden fruit was an apple, fig, peach, pomegranate or something completely different, it is worth revisiting the temptation scene \u003ca href=\"https://www.dartmouth.edu/~milton/reading_room/pl/book_9/text.shtml\">in Book 9 of \u003cem>Paradise Lost\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem>,\u003c/em> both as an homage to Milton (who composed his masterpiece when he was blind, impoverished and in the doghouse for his regicidal politics) and simply to savor the sublime beauty of the language. Thomas Jefferson loved this poem. With its superfood dietary advice, celebration of the 'self-help is the best help' ideal, and presence of a snake-oil salesman, \u003cem>Paradise Los\u003c/em>t is a quintessentially American story, although composed more than a century before the United States was founded.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What makes the temptation scene so absorbing and enjoyable is that, although written in archaic English, it is speckled with mundane details that make the reader stop in surprise.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Take, for instance, the serpent's impeccably timed gustatory seduction. It takes place not at any old time of the day but at lunchtime:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003cp>\"\u003cem>Mean while the hour of Noon drew on, and wak'd/ An eager appetite.\"\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cem> \u003c/em>What a canny and charmingly human detail. Milton builds on it by lingeringly conjuring the aroma of apples, knowing full well that an \"ambrosial smell\" can madden an empty stomach to action. The fruit's \"savorie odour,\" rhapsodizes the snake, is more pleasing to the senses than the scent of the teats of an ewe or goat dropping with unsuckled milk at evening. Today's Food Network impresarios, with their overblown praise and frantic similes, couldn't dream up anything close to that peculiarly sensuous comparison.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It is easy to imagine the scene. Eve, curious, credulous and peckish, gazes longingly at the contraband \"Ruddie and Gold\" fruit while the unctuous snake-oil salesman murmurs his encouragement. Initially, she hangs back, suspicious of his \"overpraising.\" But soon she begins to cave: How can a fruit so \"Fair to the Eye, inviting to the Taste,\" be evil? Surely it is the opposite, its \"sciental sap\" must be the source of divine knowledge. The serpent must speak true.\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>So saying, her rash hand in evil hour \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Forth reaching to the Fruit, she pluck'd, she eat:\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Earth felt the wound, and Nature from her seat\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Sighing through all her Works gave signs of woe,\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>That all was lost. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>But Eve is insensible to the cosmic disappointment her lunch has caused. Sated and intoxicated as if with wine, she bows low before \"O Sovran, vertuous, precious of all Trees,\" and hurries forth with \"a bough of fairest fruit\" to her beloved Adam, that he too might eat and aspire to godhead. Their shared meal, foreshadowed as it is by expulsion and doom, is a moving and poignant tableau of marital bliss.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, the serpent, its mission accomplished, slinks into the gloom. Satan heads eagerly toward a gathering of fellow devils, where he boasts that the Fall of Man has been wrought by something as ridiculous as \"an apple.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Except that it was a fig or a peach or a pear. An ancient Roman punned – and the apple myth was born.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://ninamartyris.pressfolios.com/\">Nina Martyris\u003c/a> is a freelance journalist based in Knoxville, Tenn.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>This month marks 350 years since John Milton sold his publisher the copyright of \u003cem>Paradise Lost \u003c/em>for the sum of five pounds.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>His great work dramatizes the oldest story in the Bible, whose principal characters we know only too well: God, Adam, Eve, Satan in the form of a talking snake — and an apple.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Except, of course, that Genesis never names the apple but simply refers to \"the fruit.\" To quote from the King James Bible:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>And the woman said to the serpent, \"We may eat the fruit of the trees of the garden; but of the fruit of the tree which is in the midst of the garden, God has said, 'You shall not eat it, nor shall you touch it, lest you die.'\"\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\"Fruit\" is also the word Milton employs in the poem's sonorous opening lines:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Of Mans First Disobedience, and the Fruit\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Of that Forbidden Tree, whose mortal taste\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Brought Death into the World, and all our woe\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>But in the course of his over-10,000-line poem, Milton names the fruit twice, explicitly calling it an apple. So how did the apple become the guilty fruit that brought death into this world and all our woe?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The short and unexpected answer is: a Latin pun.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In order to explain, we have to go all the way back to the fourth century A.D., when Pope Damasus ordered his leading scholar of scripture, Jerome, to translate the Hebrew Bible into Latin. Jerome's path-breaking, 15-year project, which resulted in the canonical \u003cem>Vulgate, \u003c/em>used the Latin spoken by the common man. As it turned out, the Latin words for evil and apple are the same: malus.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the Hebrew Bible, a generic term, \u003cem>peri\u003c/em>, is used for the fruit hanging from the Tree of the Knowledge of Good and Evil, explains Robert Appelbaum, who discusses the biblical provenance of the apple in his book \u003cem>Aguecheek's Beef, Belch's Hiccup, and Other Gastronomic Interjections. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Peri could be absolutely any fruit,\" he says. \"Rabbinic commentators variously characterized it as a fig, a pomegranate, a grape, an apricot, a citron, or even wheat. Some commentators even thought of the forbidden fruit as a kind of wine, intoxicating to drink.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117034\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 987px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/michelangelo_su-ndenfall_custom-75a1def1ba3fc8edaa8a96c81853c04e62b764af-s1500-c85.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/michelangelo_su-ndenfall_custom-75a1def1ba3fc8edaa8a96c81853c04e62b764af-s1500-c85.jpg\" alt=\"A detail of Michelangelo's fresco in the Vatican's Sistine Chapel depicting the Fall of Man and expulsion from the Garden of Eden\" width=\"987\" height=\"460\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117034\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/michelangelo_su-ndenfall_custom-75a1def1ba3fc8edaa8a96c81853c04e62b764af-s1500-c85.jpg 987w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/michelangelo_su-ndenfall_custom-75a1def1ba3fc8edaa8a96c81853c04e62b764af-s1500-c85-160x75.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/michelangelo_su-ndenfall_custom-75a1def1ba3fc8edaa8a96c81853c04e62b764af-s1500-c85-800x373.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/michelangelo_su-ndenfall_custom-75a1def1ba3fc8edaa8a96c81853c04e62b764af-s1500-c85-768x358.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/michelangelo_su-ndenfall_custom-75a1def1ba3fc8edaa8a96c81853c04e62b764af-s1500-c85-960x447.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/michelangelo_su-ndenfall_custom-75a1def1ba3fc8edaa8a96c81853c04e62b764af-s1500-c85-240x112.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/michelangelo_su-ndenfall_custom-75a1def1ba3fc8edaa8a96c81853c04e62b764af-s1500-c85-375x175.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/michelangelo_su-ndenfall_custom-75a1def1ba3fc8edaa8a96c81853c04e62b764af-s1500-c85-520x242.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 987px) 100vw, 987px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A detail of Michelangelo's fresco in the Vatican's Sistine Chapel depicting the Fall of Man and expulsion from the Garden of Eden \u003ccite>(Wikipedia)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>When Jerome was translating the \"Tree of the Knowledge of Good and Evil,\" the word \u003cem>malus \u003c/em>snaked in. A brilliant but controversial theologian, Jerome was known for his hot temper, but he obviously also had a rather cool sense of humor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Jerome had several options,\" says Appelbaum, a professor of English literature at Sweden's Uppsala University. \"But he hit upon the idea of translating \u003cem>peri\u003c/em> as \u003cem>malus\u003c/em>, which in Latin has two very different meanings. As an adjective, \u003cem>malus\u003c/em> means bad or evil. As a noun it seems to means an apple, in our own sense of the word, coming from the very common tree now known officially as the \u003cem>Malus pumila\u003c/em>. So Jerome came up with a very good pun.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The story doesn't end there. \"To complicate things even more,\" says Appelbaum, \"the word \u003cem>malus\u003c/em> in Jerome's time, and for a long time after, could refer to any fleshy seed-bearing fruit. A pear was a kind of \u003cem>malus.\u003c/em> So was the fig, the peach, and so forth.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Which explains why Michelangelo's Sistine Chapel fresco features a serpent coiled around a fig tree. But the apple began to dominate Fall artworks in Europe after the German artist Albrecht Dürer's famous 1504 engraving depicted the First Couple counterpoised beside an apple tree. It became a template for future artists such as Lucas Cranach the Elder, whose luminous \u003cem>Adam and Eve\u003c/em> painting is hung with apples that glow like rubies.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117035\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 600px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/lucas_cranach_the_elder_-_adam_und_eva_im_paradies_-su-ndenfall-_-_google_art_project_custom-2a6ba2ef87467f1e7e8d41d9b11d05c6d44ce118-s600-c85.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/lucas_cranach_the_elder_-_adam_und_eva_im_paradies_-su-ndenfall-_-_google_art_project_custom-2a6ba2ef87467f1e7e8d41d9b11d05c6d44ce118-s600-c85.jpg\" alt=\"Eve giving Adam the forbidden fruit, by Lucas Cranach the Elder.\" width=\"600\" height=\"883\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117035\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/lucas_cranach_the_elder_-_adam_und_eva_im_paradies_-su-ndenfall-_-_google_art_project_custom-2a6ba2ef87467f1e7e8d41d9b11d05c6d44ce118-s600-c85.jpg 600w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/lucas_cranach_the_elder_-_adam_und_eva_im_paradies_-su-ndenfall-_-_google_art_project_custom-2a6ba2ef87467f1e7e8d41d9b11d05c6d44ce118-s600-c85-160x235.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/lucas_cranach_the_elder_-_adam_und_eva_im_paradies_-su-ndenfall-_-_google_art_project_custom-2a6ba2ef87467f1e7e8d41d9b11d05c6d44ce118-s600-c85-240x353.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/lucas_cranach_the_elder_-_adam_und_eva_im_paradies_-su-ndenfall-_-_google_art_project_custom-2a6ba2ef87467f1e7e8d41d9b11d05c6d44ce118-s600-c85-375x552.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/lucas_cranach_the_elder_-_adam_und_eva_im_paradies_-su-ndenfall-_-_google_art_project_custom-2a6ba2ef87467f1e7e8d41d9b11d05c6d44ce118-s600-c85-520x765.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Eve giving Adam the forbidden fruit, by Lucas Cranach the Elder. \u003ccite>(Wikipedia)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Milton, then, was only following cultural tradition. But he was a renowned Cambridge intellectual fluent in Latin, Greek and Hebrew, who served as secretary for foreign tongues to Oliver Cromwell during the Commonwealth. If anyone was aware of the \u003cem>malus\u003c/em> pun, it would be him. And yet he chose to run it with it. Why?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Appelbaum says that Milton's use of the term \"apple\" was ambiguous. \"Even in Milton's time the word had two meanings: either what was our common apple, or, again, any fleshy seed-bearing fruit. Milton probably had in mind an ambiguously named object with a variety of connotations as well as denotations, most but not all of them associating the idea of the apple with a kind of innocence, though also with a kind of intoxication, since hard apple cider was a common English drink.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was only later readers of Milton, says Appelbaum, who thought of \"apple\" as \"apple\" and not any seed-bearing fruit. For them, the forbidden fruit became synonymous with the \u003cem>malus pumila. \u003c/em>As a widely read canonical work, \u003cem>Paradise Lost\u003c/em> was influential in cementing the role of apple in the Fall story.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But whether the forbidden fruit was an apple, fig, peach, pomegranate or something completely different, it is worth revisiting the temptation scene \u003ca href=\"https://www.dartmouth.edu/~milton/reading_room/pl/book_9/text.shtml\">in Book 9 of \u003cem>Paradise Lost\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem>,\u003c/em> both as an homage to Milton (who composed his masterpiece when he was blind, impoverished and in the doghouse for his regicidal politics) and simply to savor the sublime beauty of the language. Thomas Jefferson loved this poem. With its superfood dietary advice, celebration of the 'self-help is the best help' ideal, and presence of a snake-oil salesman, \u003cem>Paradise Los\u003c/em>t is a quintessentially American story, although composed more than a century before the United States was founded.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What makes the temptation scene so absorbing and enjoyable is that, although written in archaic English, it is speckled with mundane details that make the reader stop in surprise.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Take, for instance, the serpent's impeccably timed gustatory seduction. It takes place not at any old time of the day but at lunchtime:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003cp>\"\u003cem>Mean while the hour of Noon drew on, and wak'd/ An eager appetite.\"\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cem> \u003c/em>What a canny and charmingly human detail. Milton builds on it by lingeringly conjuring the aroma of apples, knowing full well that an \"ambrosial smell\" can madden an empty stomach to action. The fruit's \"savorie odour,\" rhapsodizes the snake, is more pleasing to the senses than the scent of the teats of an ewe or goat dropping with unsuckled milk at evening. Today's Food Network impresarios, with their overblown praise and frantic similes, couldn't dream up anything close to that peculiarly sensuous comparison.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It is easy to imagine the scene. Eve, curious, credulous and peckish, gazes longingly at the contraband \"Ruddie and Gold\" fruit while the unctuous snake-oil salesman murmurs his encouragement. Initially, she hangs back, suspicious of his \"overpraising.\" But soon she begins to cave: How can a fruit so \"Fair to the Eye, inviting to the Taste,\" be evil? Surely it is the opposite, its \"sciental sap\" must be the source of divine knowledge. The serpent must speak true.\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>So saying, her rash hand in evil hour \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Forth reaching to the Fruit, she pluck'd, she eat:\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Earth felt the wound, and Nature from her seat\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Sighing through all her Works gave signs of woe,\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>That all was lost. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>But Eve is insensible to the cosmic disappointment her lunch has caused. Sated and intoxicated as if with wine, she bows low before \"O Sovran, vertuous, precious of all Trees,\" and hurries forth with \"a bough of fairest fruit\" to her beloved Adam, that he too might eat and aspire to godhead. Their shared meal, foreshadowed as it is by expulsion and doom, is a moving and poignant tableau of marital bliss.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, the serpent, its mission accomplished, slinks into the gloom. Satan heads eagerly toward a gathering of fellow devils, where he boasts that the Fall of Man has been wrought by something as ridiculous as \"an apple.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Except that it was a fig or a peach or a pear. An ancient Roman punned – and the apple myth was born.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://ninamartyris.pressfolios.com/\">Nina Martyris\u003c/a> is a freelance journalist based in Knoxville, Tenn.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "A Watergate Villain Walks Into A Berkeley Restaurant. What Could Go Wrong?",
"title": "A Watergate Villain Walks Into A Berkeley Restaurant. What Could Go Wrong?",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cem>Editor's note: This post is about chefs and they can be quite coarse when they talk. Don't be surprised by a little foul language.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In these acrimonious times, many restaurants are treading the fine line between hospitality and politics. Anxiety-inducing though it might be, restaurants have found themselves in this awkward position before.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Just ask Jeremiah Tower, one of America's most influential chefs, who faced a similarly sticky situation four decades ago.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 1974, when Tower was head chef at Alice Waters' Berkeley restaurant, Chez Panisse, in walked H.R. Haldeman, Richard Nixon's former chief of staff and a key player in the Watergate cover-up. Today, Haldeman's name might not ring too many bells, but at the time, the man known as \"Nixon's son of a bitch\" was nationally notorious.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Chez Panisse staff – very Berkeley and self-righteous – refused to serve him.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116981\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1500px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremiah-in-the-chez-panisse-kitchen-1974_custom-4e44684906e36134e339a915759f267f5ef45ab4-s1500-c85.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremiah-in-the-chez-panisse-kitchen-1974_custom-4e44684906e36134e339a915759f267f5ef45ab4-s1500-c85.jpg\" alt=\"Jeremiah in the kitchen at Chez Panisse, the landmark restaurant where, alongside Alice Waters, he helped shape modern American cuisine. When HR Haldeman, President Richard Nixon's former chief of staff and a key player in the Watergate cover-up, walked into the very Berkeley restaurant back in the '70s, a colorful scene ensued.\" width=\"1500\" height=\"853\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116981\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremiah-in-the-chez-panisse-kitchen-1974_custom-4e44684906e36134e339a915759f267f5ef45ab4-s1500-c85.jpg 1500w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremiah-in-the-chez-panisse-kitchen-1974_custom-4e44684906e36134e339a915759f267f5ef45ab4-s1500-c85-160x91.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremiah-in-the-chez-panisse-kitchen-1974_custom-4e44684906e36134e339a915759f267f5ef45ab4-s1500-c85-800x455.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremiah-in-the-chez-panisse-kitchen-1974_custom-4e44684906e36134e339a915759f267f5ef45ab4-s1500-c85-768x437.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremiah-in-the-chez-panisse-kitchen-1974_custom-4e44684906e36134e339a915759f267f5ef45ab4-s1500-c85-1020x580.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremiah-in-the-chez-panisse-kitchen-1974_custom-4e44684906e36134e339a915759f267f5ef45ab4-s1500-c85-1180x671.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremiah-in-the-chez-panisse-kitchen-1974_custom-4e44684906e36134e339a915759f267f5ef45ab4-s1500-c85-960x546.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremiah-in-the-chez-panisse-kitchen-1974_custom-4e44684906e36134e339a915759f267f5ef45ab4-s1500-c85-240x136.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremiah-in-the-chez-panisse-kitchen-1974_custom-4e44684906e36134e339a915759f267f5ef45ab4-s1500-c85-375x213.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremiah-in-the-chez-panisse-kitchen-1974_custom-4e44684906e36134e339a915759f267f5ef45ab4-s1500-c85-520x296.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1500px) 100vw, 1500px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jeremiah in the kitchen at Chez Panisse, the landmark restaurant where, alongside Alice Waters, he helped shape modern American cuisine. When HR Haldeman, President Richard Nixon's former chief of staff and a key player in the Watergate cover-up, walked into the very Berkeley restaurant back in the '70s, a colorful scene ensued. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of The Orchard)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>It was a classic '70s moment. The country's sleaziest political scandal intersecting with a counterculture restaurant that would become the founding church of modern American cuisine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What happened next?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In order to truly savor the Haldeman story, one must first conjure Tower's exuberant personality. His name probably rings fewer bells today than Haldeman's, but in his prime, first at Chez Panisse and then at his swanky San Francisco restaurant Stars, Tower reportedly rivaled Meryl Streep for column inches.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After ducking the spotlight for nearly two decades by hiding out in Mexico, Tower is currently basking in its amber glow. His elegant and acerbic 2003 memoir has been reissued as \u003cem>Start the Fire\u003c/em>: \u003cem>How I Began a Food Revolution in America – \u003c/em>the superb bibliography alone makes it worth the price, and arouses a deep admiration for this erudite if arrogant epicurean. But more significant is the launch of \u003cem>Jeremiah Tower:\u003c/em> \u003cem>The Last Magnificent\u003c/em>, a documentary on his crash-and-burn career. Produced by Anthony Bourdain, who feels that Tower has been denied his due in the American culinary pantheon, the film is well-intentioned but marred by an arch lyricism and interminable footage of Tower wandering among the Mayan ruins like an ageing hermit. Bourdain, ever ready with a vulgar bon mot, delights in calling the handsome and gay Tower \"the first f***able American chef.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tower was shaped by a wealthy and lonely childhood. He went to an English boarding school, where he learned about bad food and good manners, and later studied architecture at Harvard during the turbulent Vietnam era. Fleetingly moved to revolution, he filled a Dom Pérignon bottle with gasoline, stuffed it with an old Hermès scarf, carried it in a Tiffany bag to campus, and flung it ineptly against a wall. Posturing over, he fled back to his stove. Ever since he fixed himself a nasturtium sandwich as a solitary 5-year-old, he has spent his whole life as an apostle of good food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116982\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1500px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/the-author-with-julia-child-at-her-birthday-celebration-1982_courtesy-of-jt_custom-675ef0e5f2939f165e42573821dd69b4104774e9-s1500-c85.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/the-author-with-julia-child-at-her-birthday-celebration-1982_courtesy-of-jt_custom-675ef0e5f2939f165e42573821dd69b4104774e9-s1500-c85.jpg\" alt=\"Jeremiah Tower with Julia Child at her birthday party in the early 1980s\" width=\"1500\" height=\"1048\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116982\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/the-author-with-julia-child-at-her-birthday-celebration-1982_courtesy-of-jt_custom-675ef0e5f2939f165e42573821dd69b4104774e9-s1500-c85.jpg 1500w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/the-author-with-julia-child-at-her-birthday-celebration-1982_courtesy-of-jt_custom-675ef0e5f2939f165e42573821dd69b4104774e9-s1500-c85-160x112.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/the-author-with-julia-child-at-her-birthday-celebration-1982_courtesy-of-jt_custom-675ef0e5f2939f165e42573821dd69b4104774e9-s1500-c85-800x559.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/the-author-with-julia-child-at-her-birthday-celebration-1982_courtesy-of-jt_custom-675ef0e5f2939f165e42573821dd69b4104774e9-s1500-c85-768x537.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/the-author-with-julia-child-at-her-birthday-celebration-1982_courtesy-of-jt_custom-675ef0e5f2939f165e42573821dd69b4104774e9-s1500-c85-1020x713.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/the-author-with-julia-child-at-her-birthday-celebration-1982_courtesy-of-jt_custom-675ef0e5f2939f165e42573821dd69b4104774e9-s1500-c85-1180x824.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/the-author-with-julia-child-at-her-birthday-celebration-1982_courtesy-of-jt_custom-675ef0e5f2939f165e42573821dd69b4104774e9-s1500-c85-960x671.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/the-author-with-julia-child-at-her-birthday-celebration-1982_courtesy-of-jt_custom-675ef0e5f2939f165e42573821dd69b4104774e9-s1500-c85-240x168.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/the-author-with-julia-child-at-her-birthday-celebration-1982_courtesy-of-jt_custom-675ef0e5f2939f165e42573821dd69b4104774e9-s1500-c85-375x262.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/the-author-with-julia-child-at-her-birthday-celebration-1982_courtesy-of-jt_custom-675ef0e5f2939f165e42573821dd69b4104774e9-s1500-c85-520x363.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1500px) 100vw, 1500px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jeremiah Tower with Julia Child at her birthday party in the early 1980s \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Jeremiah Tower)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In 1973, Tower joined Chez Panisse as head chef. Fortified by heroic amounts of cocaine, champagne, oysters and the soaring operas of Verdi and Puccini, he, along with the \"diminutive, bandannaed\" Alice Waters, unleashed the California cuisine food revolution. It celebrated fresh, local ingredients classically prepared, with Tower providing the sensuous loft to Waters' mesclun asceticism.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One fateful summer evening in 1974, Watergate collided with Chez Panisse.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/9780062498434_custom-a597994f3ffefb979c04f0eb4779b790e1c9af8b-s600-c85.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/9780062498434_custom-a597994f3ffefb979c04f0eb4779b790e1c9af8b-s600-c85.jpg\" alt=\"9780062498434_custom-a597994f3ffefb979c04f0eb4779b790e1c9af8b-s600-c85\" width=\"400\" height=\"600\" class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-116983\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/9780062498434_custom-a597994f3ffefb979c04f0eb4779b790e1c9af8b-s600-c85.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/9780062498434_custom-a597994f3ffefb979c04f0eb4779b790e1c9af8b-s600-c85-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/9780062498434_custom-a597994f3ffefb979c04f0eb4779b790e1c9af8b-s600-c85-240x360.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/9780062498434_custom-a597994f3ffefb979c04f0eb4779b790e1c9af8b-s600-c85-375x563.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/a>The man who recalls it vividly is Jerry Budrick, then a partner at Panisse. \"Haldeman came in with a large party, about six or eight, including his daughter,\" says Budrick, on the phone from his home in California. \"I was waiting tables that day and I didn't recognize him, but the sous chef, Willy Bishop, did. Willy was a Beatnik who was known for erotic art. He got very upset. I remember him saying, 'There's a presence of evil in the dining room.' \"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the meantime, Tower, closeted in his tiny, opera-blasted kitchen, was unaware of \"the waitstaff's powwows about the politically undesirable 'sh**head' in the dining room.\" Until a waiter came up and announced, \"I am not serving that prick!\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I recoiled in shock,\" writes Tower. \"It would take something very rare indeed for a waiter to talk like that to a chef.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Haldeman was that \"very rare\" something. Socially, the tanned, cultured and patrician Californian was a perfect fit at Panisse. Politically, he was a pariah. But he had someone in his corner.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tower turned on the waiter. \"He's paying, isn't he? Take the food out \u003cem>now\u003c/em>.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The waiter refused. As did the \"mutinous staff\" who had Waters' backing. The food was getting cold, but, writes Tower, \"I was adamant that the man would be served and served well. As somewhat of an outcast myself, I sympathized. Throw Molotov cocktails as a political gesture I did, but intentionally serving bad food was not in my repertoire.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fortunately, Jerry Budrick, whom Tower remembers warmly as \"a steady presence,\" offered to take the dishes to the Haldeman table. Tower noticed the phone lines blinking – \"most of the customers and half the staff were trying to call out — to reporters or for reinforcements, I was not sure.\" Regardless, he was getting on with his cooking when he heard his bearded beatnik sous chef snarl, \"motherf***me.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116979\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2951px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/the-author-cooking-lunch-for-one-hundred-food-journalists-at-the-astor-mansion-1983_-courtesy-of-jt_custom-82dae9f57740dea2ec7a15ee9982a116a4a7f7bd.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/the-author-cooking-lunch-for-one-hundred-food-journalists-at-the-astor-mansion-1983_-courtesy-of-jt_custom-82dae9f57740dea2ec7a15ee9982a116a4a7f7bd.jpg\" alt='Jeremiah Tower grills lunch for 100 food journalists on the lawn of the Astor mansion in Newport Beach, R.I., in 1983. Tower wowed the East Coasters with his \"new California\" or new American cooking.' width=\"2951\" height=\"2124\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116979\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/the-author-cooking-lunch-for-one-hundred-food-journalists-at-the-astor-mansion-1983_-courtesy-of-jt_custom-82dae9f57740dea2ec7a15ee9982a116a4a7f7bd.jpg 2951w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/the-author-cooking-lunch-for-one-hundred-food-journalists-at-the-astor-mansion-1983_-courtesy-of-jt_custom-82dae9f57740dea2ec7a15ee9982a116a4a7f7bd-160x115.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/the-author-cooking-lunch-for-one-hundred-food-journalists-at-the-astor-mansion-1983_-courtesy-of-jt_custom-82dae9f57740dea2ec7a15ee9982a116a4a7f7bd-800x576.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/the-author-cooking-lunch-for-one-hundred-food-journalists-at-the-astor-mansion-1983_-courtesy-of-jt_custom-82dae9f57740dea2ec7a15ee9982a116a4a7f7bd-768x553.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/the-author-cooking-lunch-for-one-hundred-food-journalists-at-the-astor-mansion-1983_-courtesy-of-jt_custom-82dae9f57740dea2ec7a15ee9982a116a4a7f7bd-1020x734.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/the-author-cooking-lunch-for-one-hundred-food-journalists-at-the-astor-mansion-1983_-courtesy-of-jt_custom-82dae9f57740dea2ec7a15ee9982a116a4a7f7bd-1180x849.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/the-author-cooking-lunch-for-one-hundred-food-journalists-at-the-astor-mansion-1983_-courtesy-of-jt_custom-82dae9f57740dea2ec7a15ee9982a116a4a7f7bd-960x691.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/the-author-cooking-lunch-for-one-hundred-food-journalists-at-the-astor-mansion-1983_-courtesy-of-jt_custom-82dae9f57740dea2ec7a15ee9982a116a4a7f7bd-240x173.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/the-author-cooking-lunch-for-one-hundred-food-journalists-at-the-astor-mansion-1983_-courtesy-of-jt_custom-82dae9f57740dea2ec7a15ee9982a116a4a7f7bd-375x270.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/the-author-cooking-lunch-for-one-hundred-food-journalists-at-the-astor-mansion-1983_-courtesy-of-jt_custom-82dae9f57740dea2ec7a15ee9982a116a4a7f7bd-520x374.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2951px) 100vw, 2951px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jeremiah Tower \u003ca href=\"http://www.csmonitor.com/1983/0518/051807.html\">grills lunch\u003c/a> for 100 food journalists on the lawn of the Astor mansion in Newport Beach, R.I., in 1983. Tower wowed the East Coasters with his \"new California\" or new American cooking. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Jeremiah Tower)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Tower turned around to see \"Haldeman advancing on me with a smile and an outstretched hand.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He describes what transpired:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\u003cem>\"The best about English public school training is that, when all else fails, your manners take over. Mine did. So I watched my hand as it rose slowly to clasp Haldeman's.\u003cbr>\n\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\"Thank you,\" he said. And for not shaming him in front of his daughter. \"Thank you for that.\"\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>He was nice. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\"This is the perfect time to write about the Haldeman story,\" says Tower on the phone. \"What chefs should know is, it's not about you. It's about the customer. You don't get to judge who can partake of that hospitality. If customers are being obnoxious you can ask them to leave. But not because of who they are or what their politics is. Everyone has the same right to live in this country. If they're just sitting there and enjoying their dinner, hallelujah.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If he had a restaurant today, would someone whose politics he disagreed with, say President Trump's chief strategist, Steve Bannon, be welcome? \"Of course,\" says Tower. \"I can't stand the idiot, but that's not the point. He probably can't stand me, either, probably thinks I'm a dangerous liberal. He can refuse to come to the restaurant. But once he's there, and being nice and normal, hallelujah.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Haldeman dinner is part of Chez Panisse mythology. Competing versions abound, including the pernicious one that Haldeman was not charged because \"this restaurant does not accept tainted money.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Rubbish,\" says Budrick. \"It was my job to wait his table, and I did. But then, Willy and Jeremiah, whom I love, but who is a royalist and loves the grand gesture, came up with the scheme that we wouldn't take his money. So, very politely I conveyed to Haldeman that the restaurant wasn't going to charge him. There was no talk of tainted money. We treated everyone politely. Edward Teller, the father of the hydrogen bomb, lived in Berkeley and was the object of local derision and hatred – but he came often to Chez Panisse and was welcome. That tainted-money story was written by Herb Caen\" – a Pulitzer Prize-winner who wrote a much-loved gossip column for the \u003cem>San Francisco Chronicle\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Somewhat blessedly,\" writes Tower about the fallout of the Haldeman visit, \"Alice and the staff did not speak to me for a week.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A whole week?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Okay, maybe it was two days,\" he laughs. \"But, you know, a week has a bit of a ring to it.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ninamartyris.pressfolios.com/\">Nina Martyris\u003c/a> \u003cem>is a journalist based in Knoxville, Tenn.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "A new film profiles influential chef Jeremiah Tower. When one of the most hated men in U.S. politics walked in for dinner at Berkeley's famed Chez Panisse, where Tower worked, a colorful scene ensued.",
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"description": "A new film profiles influential chef Jeremiah Tower. When one of the most hated men in U.S. politics walked in for dinner at Berkeley's famed Chez Panisse, where Tower worked, a colorful scene ensued.",
"title": "A Watergate Villain Walks Into A Berkeley Restaurant. What Could Go Wrong? | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cem>Editor's note: This post is about chefs and they can be quite coarse when they talk. Don't be surprised by a little foul language.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In these acrimonious times, many restaurants are treading the fine line between hospitality and politics. Anxiety-inducing though it might be, restaurants have found themselves in this awkward position before.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Just ask Jeremiah Tower, one of America's most influential chefs, who faced a similarly sticky situation four decades ago.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 1974, when Tower was head chef at Alice Waters' Berkeley restaurant, Chez Panisse, in walked H.R. Haldeman, Richard Nixon's former chief of staff and a key player in the Watergate cover-up. Today, Haldeman's name might not ring too many bells, but at the time, the man known as \"Nixon's son of a bitch\" was nationally notorious.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Chez Panisse staff – very Berkeley and self-righteous – refused to serve him.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116981\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1500px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremiah-in-the-chez-panisse-kitchen-1974_custom-4e44684906e36134e339a915759f267f5ef45ab4-s1500-c85.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremiah-in-the-chez-panisse-kitchen-1974_custom-4e44684906e36134e339a915759f267f5ef45ab4-s1500-c85.jpg\" alt=\"Jeremiah in the kitchen at Chez Panisse, the landmark restaurant where, alongside Alice Waters, he helped shape modern American cuisine. When HR Haldeman, President Richard Nixon's former chief of staff and a key player in the Watergate cover-up, walked into the very Berkeley restaurant back in the '70s, a colorful scene ensued.\" width=\"1500\" height=\"853\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116981\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremiah-in-the-chez-panisse-kitchen-1974_custom-4e44684906e36134e339a915759f267f5ef45ab4-s1500-c85.jpg 1500w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremiah-in-the-chez-panisse-kitchen-1974_custom-4e44684906e36134e339a915759f267f5ef45ab4-s1500-c85-160x91.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremiah-in-the-chez-panisse-kitchen-1974_custom-4e44684906e36134e339a915759f267f5ef45ab4-s1500-c85-800x455.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremiah-in-the-chez-panisse-kitchen-1974_custom-4e44684906e36134e339a915759f267f5ef45ab4-s1500-c85-768x437.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremiah-in-the-chez-panisse-kitchen-1974_custom-4e44684906e36134e339a915759f267f5ef45ab4-s1500-c85-1020x580.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremiah-in-the-chez-panisse-kitchen-1974_custom-4e44684906e36134e339a915759f267f5ef45ab4-s1500-c85-1180x671.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremiah-in-the-chez-panisse-kitchen-1974_custom-4e44684906e36134e339a915759f267f5ef45ab4-s1500-c85-960x546.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremiah-in-the-chez-panisse-kitchen-1974_custom-4e44684906e36134e339a915759f267f5ef45ab4-s1500-c85-240x136.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremiah-in-the-chez-panisse-kitchen-1974_custom-4e44684906e36134e339a915759f267f5ef45ab4-s1500-c85-375x213.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremiah-in-the-chez-panisse-kitchen-1974_custom-4e44684906e36134e339a915759f267f5ef45ab4-s1500-c85-520x296.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1500px) 100vw, 1500px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jeremiah in the kitchen at Chez Panisse, the landmark restaurant where, alongside Alice Waters, he helped shape modern American cuisine. When HR Haldeman, President Richard Nixon's former chief of staff and a key player in the Watergate cover-up, walked into the very Berkeley restaurant back in the '70s, a colorful scene ensued. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of The Orchard)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>It was a classic '70s moment. The country's sleaziest political scandal intersecting with a counterculture restaurant that would become the founding church of modern American cuisine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What happened next?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In order to truly savor the Haldeman story, one must first conjure Tower's exuberant personality. His name probably rings fewer bells today than Haldeman's, but in his prime, first at Chez Panisse and then at his swanky San Francisco restaurant Stars, Tower reportedly rivaled Meryl Streep for column inches.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After ducking the spotlight for nearly two decades by hiding out in Mexico, Tower is currently basking in its amber glow. His elegant and acerbic 2003 memoir has been reissued as \u003cem>Start the Fire\u003c/em>: \u003cem>How I Began a Food Revolution in America – \u003c/em>the superb bibliography alone makes it worth the price, and arouses a deep admiration for this erudite if arrogant epicurean. But more significant is the launch of \u003cem>Jeremiah Tower:\u003c/em> \u003cem>The Last Magnificent\u003c/em>, a documentary on his crash-and-burn career. Produced by Anthony Bourdain, who feels that Tower has been denied his due in the American culinary pantheon, the film is well-intentioned but marred by an arch lyricism and interminable footage of Tower wandering among the Mayan ruins like an ageing hermit. Bourdain, ever ready with a vulgar bon mot, delights in calling the handsome and gay Tower \"the first f***able American chef.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tower was shaped by a wealthy and lonely childhood. He went to an English boarding school, where he learned about bad food and good manners, and later studied architecture at Harvard during the turbulent Vietnam era. Fleetingly moved to revolution, he filled a Dom Pérignon bottle with gasoline, stuffed it with an old Hermès scarf, carried it in a Tiffany bag to campus, and flung it ineptly against a wall. Posturing over, he fled back to his stove. Ever since he fixed himself a nasturtium sandwich as a solitary 5-year-old, he has spent his whole life as an apostle of good food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116982\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1500px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/the-author-with-julia-child-at-her-birthday-celebration-1982_courtesy-of-jt_custom-675ef0e5f2939f165e42573821dd69b4104774e9-s1500-c85.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/the-author-with-julia-child-at-her-birthday-celebration-1982_courtesy-of-jt_custom-675ef0e5f2939f165e42573821dd69b4104774e9-s1500-c85.jpg\" alt=\"Jeremiah Tower with Julia Child at her birthday party in the early 1980s\" width=\"1500\" height=\"1048\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116982\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/the-author-with-julia-child-at-her-birthday-celebration-1982_courtesy-of-jt_custom-675ef0e5f2939f165e42573821dd69b4104774e9-s1500-c85.jpg 1500w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/the-author-with-julia-child-at-her-birthday-celebration-1982_courtesy-of-jt_custom-675ef0e5f2939f165e42573821dd69b4104774e9-s1500-c85-160x112.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/the-author-with-julia-child-at-her-birthday-celebration-1982_courtesy-of-jt_custom-675ef0e5f2939f165e42573821dd69b4104774e9-s1500-c85-800x559.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/the-author-with-julia-child-at-her-birthday-celebration-1982_courtesy-of-jt_custom-675ef0e5f2939f165e42573821dd69b4104774e9-s1500-c85-768x537.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/the-author-with-julia-child-at-her-birthday-celebration-1982_courtesy-of-jt_custom-675ef0e5f2939f165e42573821dd69b4104774e9-s1500-c85-1020x713.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/the-author-with-julia-child-at-her-birthday-celebration-1982_courtesy-of-jt_custom-675ef0e5f2939f165e42573821dd69b4104774e9-s1500-c85-1180x824.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/the-author-with-julia-child-at-her-birthday-celebration-1982_courtesy-of-jt_custom-675ef0e5f2939f165e42573821dd69b4104774e9-s1500-c85-960x671.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/the-author-with-julia-child-at-her-birthday-celebration-1982_courtesy-of-jt_custom-675ef0e5f2939f165e42573821dd69b4104774e9-s1500-c85-240x168.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/the-author-with-julia-child-at-her-birthday-celebration-1982_courtesy-of-jt_custom-675ef0e5f2939f165e42573821dd69b4104774e9-s1500-c85-375x262.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/the-author-with-julia-child-at-her-birthday-celebration-1982_courtesy-of-jt_custom-675ef0e5f2939f165e42573821dd69b4104774e9-s1500-c85-520x363.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1500px) 100vw, 1500px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jeremiah Tower with Julia Child at her birthday party in the early 1980s \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Jeremiah Tower)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In 1973, Tower joined Chez Panisse as head chef. Fortified by heroic amounts of cocaine, champagne, oysters and the soaring operas of Verdi and Puccini, he, along with the \"diminutive, bandannaed\" Alice Waters, unleashed the California cuisine food revolution. It celebrated fresh, local ingredients classically prepared, with Tower providing the sensuous loft to Waters' mesclun asceticism.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One fateful summer evening in 1974, Watergate collided with Chez Panisse.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/9780062498434_custom-a597994f3ffefb979c04f0eb4779b790e1c9af8b-s600-c85.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/9780062498434_custom-a597994f3ffefb979c04f0eb4779b790e1c9af8b-s600-c85.jpg\" alt=\"9780062498434_custom-a597994f3ffefb979c04f0eb4779b790e1c9af8b-s600-c85\" width=\"400\" height=\"600\" class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-116983\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/9780062498434_custom-a597994f3ffefb979c04f0eb4779b790e1c9af8b-s600-c85.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/9780062498434_custom-a597994f3ffefb979c04f0eb4779b790e1c9af8b-s600-c85-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/9780062498434_custom-a597994f3ffefb979c04f0eb4779b790e1c9af8b-s600-c85-240x360.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/9780062498434_custom-a597994f3ffefb979c04f0eb4779b790e1c9af8b-s600-c85-375x563.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/a>The man who recalls it vividly is Jerry Budrick, then a partner at Panisse. \"Haldeman came in with a large party, about six or eight, including his daughter,\" says Budrick, on the phone from his home in California. \"I was waiting tables that day and I didn't recognize him, but the sous chef, Willy Bishop, did. Willy was a Beatnik who was known for erotic art. He got very upset. I remember him saying, 'There's a presence of evil in the dining room.' \"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the meantime, Tower, closeted in his tiny, opera-blasted kitchen, was unaware of \"the waitstaff's powwows about the politically undesirable 'sh**head' in the dining room.\" Until a waiter came up and announced, \"I am not serving that prick!\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I recoiled in shock,\" writes Tower. \"It would take something very rare indeed for a waiter to talk like that to a chef.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Haldeman was that \"very rare\" something. Socially, the tanned, cultured and patrician Californian was a perfect fit at Panisse. Politically, he was a pariah. But he had someone in his corner.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tower turned on the waiter. \"He's paying, isn't he? Take the food out \u003cem>now\u003c/em>.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The waiter refused. As did the \"mutinous staff\" who had Waters' backing. The food was getting cold, but, writes Tower, \"I was adamant that the man would be served and served well. As somewhat of an outcast myself, I sympathized. Throw Molotov cocktails as a political gesture I did, but intentionally serving bad food was not in my repertoire.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fortunately, Jerry Budrick, whom Tower remembers warmly as \"a steady presence,\" offered to take the dishes to the Haldeman table. Tower noticed the phone lines blinking – \"most of the customers and half the staff were trying to call out — to reporters or for reinforcements, I was not sure.\" Regardless, he was getting on with his cooking when he heard his bearded beatnik sous chef snarl, \"motherf***me.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116979\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2951px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/the-author-cooking-lunch-for-one-hundred-food-journalists-at-the-astor-mansion-1983_-courtesy-of-jt_custom-82dae9f57740dea2ec7a15ee9982a116a4a7f7bd.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/the-author-cooking-lunch-for-one-hundred-food-journalists-at-the-astor-mansion-1983_-courtesy-of-jt_custom-82dae9f57740dea2ec7a15ee9982a116a4a7f7bd.jpg\" alt='Jeremiah Tower grills lunch for 100 food journalists on the lawn of the Astor mansion in Newport Beach, R.I., in 1983. Tower wowed the East Coasters with his \"new California\" or new American cooking.' width=\"2951\" height=\"2124\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116979\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/the-author-cooking-lunch-for-one-hundred-food-journalists-at-the-astor-mansion-1983_-courtesy-of-jt_custom-82dae9f57740dea2ec7a15ee9982a116a4a7f7bd.jpg 2951w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/the-author-cooking-lunch-for-one-hundred-food-journalists-at-the-astor-mansion-1983_-courtesy-of-jt_custom-82dae9f57740dea2ec7a15ee9982a116a4a7f7bd-160x115.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/the-author-cooking-lunch-for-one-hundred-food-journalists-at-the-astor-mansion-1983_-courtesy-of-jt_custom-82dae9f57740dea2ec7a15ee9982a116a4a7f7bd-800x576.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/the-author-cooking-lunch-for-one-hundred-food-journalists-at-the-astor-mansion-1983_-courtesy-of-jt_custom-82dae9f57740dea2ec7a15ee9982a116a4a7f7bd-768x553.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/the-author-cooking-lunch-for-one-hundred-food-journalists-at-the-astor-mansion-1983_-courtesy-of-jt_custom-82dae9f57740dea2ec7a15ee9982a116a4a7f7bd-1020x734.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/the-author-cooking-lunch-for-one-hundred-food-journalists-at-the-astor-mansion-1983_-courtesy-of-jt_custom-82dae9f57740dea2ec7a15ee9982a116a4a7f7bd-1180x849.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/the-author-cooking-lunch-for-one-hundred-food-journalists-at-the-astor-mansion-1983_-courtesy-of-jt_custom-82dae9f57740dea2ec7a15ee9982a116a4a7f7bd-960x691.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/the-author-cooking-lunch-for-one-hundred-food-journalists-at-the-astor-mansion-1983_-courtesy-of-jt_custom-82dae9f57740dea2ec7a15ee9982a116a4a7f7bd-240x173.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/the-author-cooking-lunch-for-one-hundred-food-journalists-at-the-astor-mansion-1983_-courtesy-of-jt_custom-82dae9f57740dea2ec7a15ee9982a116a4a7f7bd-375x270.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/the-author-cooking-lunch-for-one-hundred-food-journalists-at-the-astor-mansion-1983_-courtesy-of-jt_custom-82dae9f57740dea2ec7a15ee9982a116a4a7f7bd-520x374.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2951px) 100vw, 2951px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jeremiah Tower \u003ca href=\"http://www.csmonitor.com/1983/0518/051807.html\">grills lunch\u003c/a> for 100 food journalists on the lawn of the Astor mansion in Newport Beach, R.I., in 1983. Tower wowed the East Coasters with his \"new California\" or new American cooking. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Jeremiah Tower)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Tower turned around to see \"Haldeman advancing on me with a smile and an outstretched hand.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He describes what transpired:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\u003cem>\"The best about English public school training is that, when all else fails, your manners take over. Mine did. So I watched my hand as it rose slowly to clasp Haldeman's.\u003cbr>\n\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\"Thank you,\" he said. And for not shaming him in front of his daughter. \"Thank you for that.\"\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>He was nice. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\"This is the perfect time to write about the Haldeman story,\" says Tower on the phone. \"What chefs should know is, it's not about you. It's about the customer. You don't get to judge who can partake of that hospitality. If customers are being obnoxious you can ask them to leave. But not because of who they are or what their politics is. Everyone has the same right to live in this country. If they're just sitting there and enjoying their dinner, hallelujah.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If he had a restaurant today, would someone whose politics he disagreed with, say President Trump's chief strategist, Steve Bannon, be welcome? \"Of course,\" says Tower. \"I can't stand the idiot, but that's not the point. He probably can't stand me, either, probably thinks I'm a dangerous liberal. He can refuse to come to the restaurant. But once he's there, and being nice and normal, hallelujah.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Haldeman dinner is part of Chez Panisse mythology. Competing versions abound, including the pernicious one that Haldeman was not charged because \"this restaurant does not accept tainted money.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Rubbish,\" says Budrick. \"It was my job to wait his table, and I did. But then, Willy and Jeremiah, whom I love, but who is a royalist and loves the grand gesture, came up with the scheme that we wouldn't take his money. So, very politely I conveyed to Haldeman that the restaurant wasn't going to charge him. There was no talk of tainted money. We treated everyone politely. Edward Teller, the father of the hydrogen bomb, lived in Berkeley and was the object of local derision and hatred – but he came often to Chez Panisse and was welcome. That tainted-money story was written by Herb Caen\" – a Pulitzer Prize-winner who wrote a much-loved gossip column for the \u003cem>San Francisco Chronicle\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Somewhat blessedly,\" writes Tower about the fallout of the Haldeman visit, \"Alice and the staff did not speak to me for a week.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A whole week?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Okay, maybe it was two days,\" he laughs. \"But, you know, a week has a bit of a ring to it.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ninamartyris.pressfolios.com/\">Nina Martyris\u003c/a> \u003cem>is a journalist based in Knoxville, Tenn.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "It's Not Easy Being Green: Food Activism at the 2017 SF Green Film Festival",
"title": "It's Not Easy Being Green: Food Activism at the 2017 SF Green Film Festival",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>Three films at the\u003ca href=\"http://www.greenfilmfest.org/\" target=\"_blank\"> 2017 San Francisco Green Film Festival\u003c/a> (April 20-26) highlight, perhaps unintentionally, how hard it is to do the right thing. Or maybe they demonstrate how easy it is, but how often the right thing is ignored in favor of the expedient. This dilemma is familiar to anyone paying attention, vexing arguments that range across the landscape of human activity. Yes, it might be true that a particular practice is harmful in the long run, but the short-term benefits (usually jobs, economics) trump all other concerns. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What I mean is best expressed in the story of Dick Goin, a man whose decades-long fight to remove two dams and return Chinook salmon to their ancestral spawning grounds in Washington's Elwha River is poetically profiled in Jennifer Galvin & Sachi Cunningham's \u003ca href=\"http://www.thememoryoffish.com/\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>The Memory of Fish\u003c/em>\u003c/a> (Saturday, April 22, 3pm, Roxie Cinema).\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116825\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1400px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/The-Memory-of-Fish-3.jpg\" alt=\"Dick Goin, The Memory of Fish\" width=\"1400\" height=\"788\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116825\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/The-Memory-of-Fish-3.jpg 1400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/The-Memory-of-Fish-3-160x90.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/The-Memory-of-Fish-3-800x450.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/The-Memory-of-Fish-3-768x432.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/The-Memory-of-Fish-3-1020x574.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/The-Memory-of-Fish-3-1180x664.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/The-Memory-of-Fish-3-960x540.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/The-Memory-of-Fish-3-240x135.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/The-Memory-of-Fish-3-375x211.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/The-Memory-of-Fish-3-520x293.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1400px) 100vw, 1400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dick Goin, The Memory of Fish\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Goin's relationship with the river began when he was just a kid. His family suffered the ravages of the infamous Dust Bowl, sold what little they had and headed west from southwestern Iowa. They arrived on the banks of the Elwha \"poor as rats,\" surviving starvation because of the river's rich natural resources, most particularly the hefty salmon that thrived there. Goin spent his whole life on the river, which was dammed early in the 20th century to produce hydro-electricity, fueling mills that produced everything from tires to canned fish. At 18, Goin went to work at Rayonier Incorporated, servicing the machines powered by the dams he despised for 41 1/2 years. He recounts witnessing juvenile salmonids hit the pollution generated by Rayonier and going belly up and wonders at his inaction. \"Should I have then said, 'Hell, I won't work here anymore?'\" How would he have put food on the table for his young family? He says, \"You accept the necessities of life...\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://youtu.be/5GwGlEX0ktw\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The combination of the dams, which inhibited spawning, the canneries that chopped and packaged the fish and other companies that spewed pollution resulted in a huge decline of the Chinook population. Goin's own fishing records track reductions in the size and quantity of the fish. Once Goin retired, and most of the factories previously powered by the dams went out of business, he began to lobby for the restoration of the river. Of course there was resistance. No one had ever undertaken such a \u003ca href=\"http://projects.seattletimes.com/2016/elwha/\" target=\"_blank\">massive dam removal project\u003c/a>. What would happen to the river if it was returned to its former state?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This timeline brings up a troubling question. Did Goin advocate for the river's restoration when his livelihood depended on the power generated by its two dams? This is the complicated heart of the conservation question, the sticky point located at the center of enlightenment, convenience and self interest. Why is it so difficult to do the right thing?\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116826\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1400px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2257_Sunburst-Farm_Apple-pickers.jpg\" alt=\"Sunburst Farm apple pickers; Evolution of Organic\" width=\"1400\" height=\"1013\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116826\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2257_Sunburst-Farm_Apple-pickers.jpg 1400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2257_Sunburst-Farm_Apple-pickers-160x116.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2257_Sunburst-Farm_Apple-pickers-800x579.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2257_Sunburst-Farm_Apple-pickers-768x556.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2257_Sunburst-Farm_Apple-pickers-1020x738.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2257_Sunburst-Farm_Apple-pickers-1180x854.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2257_Sunburst-Farm_Apple-pickers-960x695.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2257_Sunburst-Farm_Apple-pickers-240x174.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2257_Sunburst-Farm_Apple-pickers-375x271.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2257_Sunburst-Farm_Apple-pickers-520x376.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1400px) 100vw, 1400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sunburst Farm apple pickers; Evolution of Organic\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The festival's opening night film, Mark Kitchell's \u003ca href=\"http://evolutionoforganic.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Evolution of Organic\u003c/a> (Thursday, April 20, 7:30pm, Castro Theatre) provides a partial answer. There were indeed people devoted to a principle that was a little more enlightened than it was self-interested. In reaction to the industrial farming practices of the late 1960s and early 1970s, a small band of \"hippies\" sought natural food alternatives for themselves, their families and their communities. However, making a living as an organic farmer was exceedingly difficult in an era when the term was at best obscure and at worst denigrated. This core group of true believers persisted because growing healthy food and responsibly stewarding the land was the right thing to do. They adopted farming practices and innovated food distribution operations out of necessity. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Images of this early movement are endearingly hilarious, looking how you would expect coastal Californians looked in the early 1970s. One image, the one I would have liked to use to promote this post, is of a group of naked, long-haired men and women crouched together on a patch of land, boobs and penises dangling freely, arms draped over one another as the afternoon sun kisses their honey-colored skin. One can only imagine the night ahead after a day's work digging in the dirt! \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://youtu.be/Mh_9ojGcYoE\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The film -- in four acts -- tracks the rise of the \"organic\" movement, which has come to mean so much (and sometimes so little) in today's supermarket. Inspired by Rachel Carson's \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silent_Spring\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>Silent Spring\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, an influential tome documenting the detrimental effects of pesticides, and the arrival of English master gardener \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alan_Chadwick\" target=\"_blank\">Alan Chadwick\u003c/a> at the University of California, Santa Cruz, early organic farmers had to resist prevalent farming practices and rediscover a history of seemingly lost knowledge. (Funny that. A few decades of industrial farming could somehow wipe away millennia of practice. How easily we humans forget.) \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116827\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1400px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2098_RMarks-PVF-Annie-Marks-Apples.jpg\" alt=\"Evolution of Organic\" width=\"1400\" height=\"930\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116827\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2098_RMarks-PVF-Annie-Marks-Apples.jpg 1400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2098_RMarks-PVF-Annie-Marks-Apples-160x106.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2098_RMarks-PVF-Annie-Marks-Apples-800x531.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2098_RMarks-PVF-Annie-Marks-Apples-768x510.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2098_RMarks-PVF-Annie-Marks-Apples-1020x678.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2098_RMarks-PVF-Annie-Marks-Apples-1180x784.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2098_RMarks-PVF-Annie-Marks-Apples-960x638.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2098_RMarks-PVF-Annie-Marks-Apples-240x159.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2098_RMarks-PVF-Annie-Marks-Apples-375x249.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2098_RMarks-PVF-Annie-Marks-Apples-520x345.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1400px) 100vw, 1400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Evolution of Organic \u003ccite>(Annie Marks)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Starting with the beginnings of the movement, when the desire for clean food meant either growing it or distributing it yourself, the film documents the rise of organic practice, illuminating an era when producers shared knowledge on the tailgates of their pick-up trucks. As with all things, organic farming grew because there was a demand. The cash register really is capitalism's ballot box. After a couple of decades in obscurity, the baby lettuce (AKA \"spring mix\") craze of the early 1990s put organic on the map. A couple well-publicized pesticide health scares later, large supermarket chains began to feel the demand. Increased value brought larger producers, many switching their commercial practices to organic. The film's final act locates the current seeds of the movement's future, perhaps even as a redress to atmospheric carbon. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>An interesting point that quickly rushed by was the impending retirement of the organic \"elders.\" This made me wonder about the fate of all the organic farmland this group of pioneers has cleared and converted. Is it in the process of sub-division, turning into vineyards or remote homes for California's coastal elite?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Again, the question arises: what is the right action? Is it favorably aligned with the self interests of those who struggled in obscurity for decades before finding themselves at the vanguard of a food movement that generated a great deal of health and wealth? \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116828\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1400px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6_Rancher-Dusty-Crary-visiting-fathers-grave_Beth-Aala.jpg\" alt=\"Dusty Crary visits his father's grave; Rancher, Farmer, Fisherman\" width=\"1400\" height=\"1050\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116828\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6_Rancher-Dusty-Crary-visiting-fathers-grave_Beth-Aala.jpg 1400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6_Rancher-Dusty-Crary-visiting-fathers-grave_Beth-Aala-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6_Rancher-Dusty-Crary-visiting-fathers-grave_Beth-Aala-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6_Rancher-Dusty-Crary-visiting-fathers-grave_Beth-Aala-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6_Rancher-Dusty-Crary-visiting-fathers-grave_Beth-Aala-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6_Rancher-Dusty-Crary-visiting-fathers-grave_Beth-Aala-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6_Rancher-Dusty-Crary-visiting-fathers-grave_Beth-Aala-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6_Rancher-Dusty-Crary-visiting-fathers-grave_Beth-Aala-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6_Rancher-Dusty-Crary-visiting-fathers-grave_Beth-Aala-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6_Rancher-Dusty-Crary-visiting-fathers-grave_Beth-Aala-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1400px) 100vw, 1400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dusty Crary visits his father's grave; Rancher, Farmer, Fisherman \u003ccite>(Beth AAla)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>If Susan Froemke and John Hoffman's Discovery Channel documentary \u003ca href=\"http://rancherfarmerfisherman.com/\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>Rancher, Farmer, Fisherman\u003c/em>\u003c/a> (Wednesday, April 26, 6pm, Castro Theatre) is any indication, the answer would be ... complicated. Ultimately, the documentary's characters fight a good fight, protecting land from oil drilling, adopting till-free farming practices and creating fishing quotas to responsibly steward the delicate resources of a fishery. But what motivates these people to ultimately do the right thing? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://youtu.be/evg6U1mo3kg\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the case of the Montana ranchers, the large tracts of property their families have inhabited for generations became threatened by proposed drilling on nearby federal lands. They fought not only to shut this activity down, but worked with conservation groups to permanently secure adjacent areas and limit the uses for their own properties for generations. Their self interest conserves the landscape for their descendants, while also protecting over a million acres from development. It's a net good, with direct benefits for a select few. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Similarly, the cadre of Louisiana commercial fishermen featured in the film created fishing quotas for themselves, but only after the stocks of red snapper from which they made their living very nearly collapsed. Finally, after years of warning, they came together to cooperatively save the fishery on which their lives depended. Why did this action take so long? What is it about the human species that makes this kind of enlightened action so elusive? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I suppose there is no answer to this question, only a willingness to continue asking that is the hallmark of the San Francisco Green Film Festival. The festival runs April 20-26, 2017. For tickets and information visit \u003ca href=\"http://www.greenfilmfest.org/\" target=\"_blank\">greenfilmfest.org\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Three food-related films at the 2017 SF Green Film Festival highlight the challenges of conservation. The festival runs April 20-26, 2017.",
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"title": "It's Not Easy Being Green: Food Activism at the 2017 SF Green Film Festival | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Three films at the\u003ca href=\"http://www.greenfilmfest.org/\" target=\"_blank\"> 2017 San Francisco Green Film Festival\u003c/a> (April 20-26) highlight, perhaps unintentionally, how hard it is to do the right thing. Or maybe they demonstrate how easy it is, but how often the right thing is ignored in favor of the expedient. This dilemma is familiar to anyone paying attention, vexing arguments that range across the landscape of human activity. Yes, it might be true that a particular practice is harmful in the long run, but the short-term benefits (usually jobs, economics) trump all other concerns. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What I mean is best expressed in the story of Dick Goin, a man whose decades-long fight to remove two dams and return Chinook salmon to their ancestral spawning grounds in Washington's Elwha River is poetically profiled in Jennifer Galvin & Sachi Cunningham's \u003ca href=\"http://www.thememoryoffish.com/\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>The Memory of Fish\u003c/em>\u003c/a> (Saturday, April 22, 3pm, Roxie Cinema).\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116825\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1400px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/The-Memory-of-Fish-3.jpg\" alt=\"Dick Goin, The Memory of Fish\" width=\"1400\" height=\"788\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116825\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/The-Memory-of-Fish-3.jpg 1400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/The-Memory-of-Fish-3-160x90.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/The-Memory-of-Fish-3-800x450.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/The-Memory-of-Fish-3-768x432.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/The-Memory-of-Fish-3-1020x574.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/The-Memory-of-Fish-3-1180x664.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/The-Memory-of-Fish-3-960x540.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/The-Memory-of-Fish-3-240x135.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/The-Memory-of-Fish-3-375x211.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/The-Memory-of-Fish-3-520x293.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1400px) 100vw, 1400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dick Goin, The Memory of Fish\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Goin's relationship with the river began when he was just a kid. His family suffered the ravages of the infamous Dust Bowl, sold what little they had and headed west from southwestern Iowa. They arrived on the banks of the Elwha \"poor as rats,\" surviving starvation because of the river's rich natural resources, most particularly the hefty salmon that thrived there. Goin spent his whole life on the river, which was dammed early in the 20th century to produce hydro-electricity, fueling mills that produced everything from tires to canned fish. At 18, Goin went to work at Rayonier Incorporated, servicing the machines powered by the dams he despised for 41 1/2 years. He recounts witnessing juvenile salmonids hit the pollution generated by Rayonier and going belly up and wonders at his inaction. \"Should I have then said, 'Hell, I won't work here anymore?'\" How would he have put food on the table for his young family? He says, \"You accept the necessities of life...\"\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/5GwGlEX0ktw'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/5GwGlEX0ktw'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cp>The combination of the dams, which inhibited spawning, the canneries that chopped and packaged the fish and other companies that spewed pollution resulted in a huge decline of the Chinook population. Goin's own fishing records track reductions in the size and quantity of the fish. Once Goin retired, and most of the factories previously powered by the dams went out of business, he began to lobby for the restoration of the river. Of course there was resistance. No one had ever undertaken such a \u003ca href=\"http://projects.seattletimes.com/2016/elwha/\" target=\"_blank\">massive dam removal project\u003c/a>. What would happen to the river if it was returned to its former state?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This timeline brings up a troubling question. Did Goin advocate for the river's restoration when his livelihood depended on the power generated by its two dams? This is the complicated heart of the conservation question, the sticky point located at the center of enlightenment, convenience and self interest. Why is it so difficult to do the right thing?\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116826\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1400px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2257_Sunburst-Farm_Apple-pickers.jpg\" alt=\"Sunburst Farm apple pickers; Evolution of Organic\" width=\"1400\" height=\"1013\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116826\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2257_Sunburst-Farm_Apple-pickers.jpg 1400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2257_Sunburst-Farm_Apple-pickers-160x116.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2257_Sunburst-Farm_Apple-pickers-800x579.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2257_Sunburst-Farm_Apple-pickers-768x556.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2257_Sunburst-Farm_Apple-pickers-1020x738.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2257_Sunburst-Farm_Apple-pickers-1180x854.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2257_Sunburst-Farm_Apple-pickers-960x695.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2257_Sunburst-Farm_Apple-pickers-240x174.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2257_Sunburst-Farm_Apple-pickers-375x271.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2257_Sunburst-Farm_Apple-pickers-520x376.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1400px) 100vw, 1400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sunburst Farm apple pickers; Evolution of Organic\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The festival's opening night film, Mark Kitchell's \u003ca href=\"http://evolutionoforganic.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Evolution of Organic\u003c/a> (Thursday, April 20, 7:30pm, Castro Theatre) provides a partial answer. There were indeed people devoted to a principle that was a little more enlightened than it was self-interested. In reaction to the industrial farming practices of the late 1960s and early 1970s, a small band of \"hippies\" sought natural food alternatives for themselves, their families and their communities. However, making a living as an organic farmer was exceedingly difficult in an era when the term was at best obscure and at worst denigrated. This core group of true believers persisted because growing healthy food and responsibly stewarding the land was the right thing to do. They adopted farming practices and innovated food distribution operations out of necessity. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Images of this early movement are endearingly hilarious, looking how you would expect coastal Californians looked in the early 1970s. One image, the one I would have liked to use to promote this post, is of a group of naked, long-haired men and women crouched together on a patch of land, boobs and penises dangling freely, arms draped over one another as the afternoon sun kisses their honey-colored skin. One can only imagine the night ahead after a day's work digging in the dirt! \u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/Mh_9ojGcYoE'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/Mh_9ojGcYoE'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cp>The film -- in four acts -- tracks the rise of the \"organic\" movement, which has come to mean so much (and sometimes so little) in today's supermarket. Inspired by Rachel Carson's \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silent_Spring\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>Silent Spring\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, an influential tome documenting the detrimental effects of pesticides, and the arrival of English master gardener \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alan_Chadwick\" target=\"_blank\">Alan Chadwick\u003c/a> at the University of California, Santa Cruz, early organic farmers had to resist prevalent farming practices and rediscover a history of seemingly lost knowledge. (Funny that. A few decades of industrial farming could somehow wipe away millennia of practice. How easily we humans forget.) \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116827\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1400px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2098_RMarks-PVF-Annie-Marks-Apples.jpg\" alt=\"Evolution of Organic\" width=\"1400\" height=\"930\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116827\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2098_RMarks-PVF-Annie-Marks-Apples.jpg 1400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2098_RMarks-PVF-Annie-Marks-Apples-160x106.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2098_RMarks-PVF-Annie-Marks-Apples-800x531.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2098_RMarks-PVF-Annie-Marks-Apples-768x510.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2098_RMarks-PVF-Annie-Marks-Apples-1020x678.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2098_RMarks-PVF-Annie-Marks-Apples-1180x784.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2098_RMarks-PVF-Annie-Marks-Apples-960x638.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2098_RMarks-PVF-Annie-Marks-Apples-240x159.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2098_RMarks-PVF-Annie-Marks-Apples-375x249.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2098_RMarks-PVF-Annie-Marks-Apples-520x345.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1400px) 100vw, 1400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Evolution of Organic \u003ccite>(Annie Marks)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Starting with the beginnings of the movement, when the desire for clean food meant either growing it or distributing it yourself, the film documents the rise of organic practice, illuminating an era when producers shared knowledge on the tailgates of their pick-up trucks. As with all things, organic farming grew because there was a demand. The cash register really is capitalism's ballot box. After a couple of decades in obscurity, the baby lettuce (AKA \"spring mix\") craze of the early 1990s put organic on the map. A couple well-publicized pesticide health scares later, large supermarket chains began to feel the demand. Increased value brought larger producers, many switching their commercial practices to organic. The film's final act locates the current seeds of the movement's future, perhaps even as a redress to atmospheric carbon. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>An interesting point that quickly rushed by was the impending retirement of the organic \"elders.\" This made me wonder about the fate of all the organic farmland this group of pioneers has cleared and converted. Is it in the process of sub-division, turning into vineyards or remote homes for California's coastal elite?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Again, the question arises: what is the right action? Is it favorably aligned with the self interests of those who struggled in obscurity for decades before finding themselves at the vanguard of a food movement that generated a great deal of health and wealth? \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116828\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1400px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6_Rancher-Dusty-Crary-visiting-fathers-grave_Beth-Aala.jpg\" alt=\"Dusty Crary visits his father's grave; Rancher, Farmer, Fisherman\" width=\"1400\" height=\"1050\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116828\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6_Rancher-Dusty-Crary-visiting-fathers-grave_Beth-Aala.jpg 1400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6_Rancher-Dusty-Crary-visiting-fathers-grave_Beth-Aala-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6_Rancher-Dusty-Crary-visiting-fathers-grave_Beth-Aala-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6_Rancher-Dusty-Crary-visiting-fathers-grave_Beth-Aala-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6_Rancher-Dusty-Crary-visiting-fathers-grave_Beth-Aala-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6_Rancher-Dusty-Crary-visiting-fathers-grave_Beth-Aala-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6_Rancher-Dusty-Crary-visiting-fathers-grave_Beth-Aala-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6_Rancher-Dusty-Crary-visiting-fathers-grave_Beth-Aala-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6_Rancher-Dusty-Crary-visiting-fathers-grave_Beth-Aala-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6_Rancher-Dusty-Crary-visiting-fathers-grave_Beth-Aala-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1400px) 100vw, 1400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dusty Crary visits his father's grave; Rancher, Farmer, Fisherman \u003ccite>(Beth AAla)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>If Susan Froemke and John Hoffman's Discovery Channel documentary \u003ca href=\"http://rancherfarmerfisherman.com/\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>Rancher, Farmer, Fisherman\u003c/em>\u003c/a> (Wednesday, April 26, 6pm, Castro Theatre) is any indication, the answer would be ... complicated. Ultimately, the documentary's characters fight a good fight, protecting land from oil drilling, adopting till-free farming practices and creating fishing quotas to responsibly steward the delicate resources of a fishery. But what motivates these people to ultimately do the right thing? \u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/evg6U1mo3kg'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/evg6U1mo3kg'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cp>In the case of the Montana ranchers, the large tracts of property their families have inhabited for generations became threatened by proposed drilling on nearby federal lands. They fought not only to shut this activity down, but worked with conservation groups to permanently secure adjacent areas and limit the uses for their own properties for generations. Their self interest conserves the landscape for their descendants, while also protecting over a million acres from development. It's a net good, with direct benefits for a select few. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Similarly, the cadre of Louisiana commercial fishermen featured in the film created fishing quotas for themselves, but only after the stocks of red snapper from which they made their living very nearly collapsed. Finally, after years of warning, they came together to cooperatively save the fishery on which their lives depended. Why did this action take so long? What is it about the human species that makes this kind of enlightened action so elusive? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I suppose there is no answer to this question, only a willingness to continue asking that is the hallmark of the San Francisco Green Film Festival. The festival runs April 20-26, 2017. For tickets and information visit \u003ca href=\"http://www.greenfilmfest.org/\" target=\"_blank\">greenfilmfest.org\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "La Cocina's 'Voices from the Kitchen' Speak Passionately on Race",
"title": "La Cocina's 'Voices from the Kitchen' Speak Passionately on Race",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116767\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1050px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-116767\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-the-crowd-.jpg\" alt=\"A full house of engaged audience members learn from Voices from the Kitchen.\" width=\"1050\" height=\"700\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-the-crowd-.jpg 1050w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-the-crowd--160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-the-crowd--800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-the-crowd--768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-the-crowd--1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-the-crowd--960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-the-crowd--240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-the-crowd--375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-the-crowd--520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1050px) 100vw, 1050px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A full house of engaged audience members learn from Voices from the Kitchen. \u003ccite>(\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/JenBaxterSF/\">@JenBaxterSF\u003c/a>)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://voicesfromthekitchen.org/\" target=\"_blank\">F&B: Voices from the Kitchen\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://www.lacocinasf.org/\" target=\"_blank\">La Cocina\u003c/a>’s latest storytelling performance on April 7 at The Swedish American Hall featured the impassioned words of more than a dozen chefs, poets, writers, historians and activists on the topic of \u003ca href=\"http://voicesfromthekitchen.org/storytellers-1-1/\">\u003cstrong>Race\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>. The evening started with food and drinks from both well-known chefs and a couple of graduates from La Cocina’s Incubator program.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Some highlights from the two-hour performance:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116768\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-116768\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1-PKC-NEW.jpg\" alt=\"People’s Kitchen Collective: Saqib Keval, Sita Kuratomi Bhaumik and Jocelyn Jackson inspired the crowd with their words and songs.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1384\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1-PKC-NEW.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1-PKC-NEW-160x115.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1-PKC-NEW-800x577.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1-PKC-NEW-768x554.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1-PKC-NEW-1020x735.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1-PKC-NEW-1180x851.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1-PKC-NEW-960x692.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1-PKC-NEW-240x173.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1-PKC-NEW-375x270.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1-PKC-NEW-520x375.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">People’s Kitchen Collective: Saqib Keval, Sita Kuratomi Bhaumik and Jocelyn Jackson inspired the crowd with their words and songs. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Co-founders of the \u003ca href=\"http://peopleskitchencollective.com/\">People’s Kitchen Collective\u003c/a> (PKC) Saqib Keval, Sita Kuratomi Bhaumik and Jocelyn Jackson entered from the audience, while Jackson sang in a deep throaty voice, “We who believe in freedom cannot rest…until it’s found.” Then all three alternated with a barrage of wisdom: “We have so much fucking faith in the power of food to fix everything.” “For centuries, food has been a weapon...keeping us stuffed and starved.” “Food deserts are not a naturally occurring phenomenon.” “Food is a strategy for resistance.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116769\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-116769\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-PKC-BPP-NEW.jpg\" alt=\"The PKC shared the story of the Black Panther Party's hugely successful Free Breakfast Program.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1502\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-PKC-BPP-NEW.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-PKC-BPP-NEW-160x125.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-PKC-BPP-NEW-800x626.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-PKC-BPP-NEW-768x601.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-PKC-BPP-NEW-1020x798.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-PKC-BPP-NEW-1180x923.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-PKC-BPP-NEW-960x751.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-PKC-BPP-NEW-240x188.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-PKC-BPP-NEW-375x293.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-PKC-BPP-NEW-520x407.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The PKC shared the story of the Black Panther Party's hugely successful Free Breakfast Program. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As inspiration, they described the \u003ca href=\"http://www.pbs.org/independentlens/videos/free-breakfast-program/\">Black Panther Party’s Free Breakfast for School Children program\u003c/a> that began in Oakland in 1969 and in a few years fed over 100,000 children nationwide. It was so successful that it inspired fear in J. Edgar Hoover, the head of the FBI, who called it “the most dangerous domestic threat to national security.” The PKC explained that while the state was trying to keep food out of the hands of black and brown children, the Black Panther Party viewed breakfast as an active tool of resistance. The breakfast program was revolutionary. And now there are free breakfast and lunch programs in schools. Why don't they come with a history lesson? they ask. Why don’t we teach children the roots of that meal?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The three co-founders of the PKC then challenged the so-called “Farm to Table” movement to acknowledge that food does not magically make it from the farm to the table without the toil of people in the middle. It would be more accurately termed “Farm to Kitchen to Table.” And why, they asked, should this food be enjoyed only in restaurants? The meal can’t end at the table. It should be accessible to all people, so a better motto would be “Farm to Kitchen to Table to Streets.” And they exhorted the audience to take this message out on the streets.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116770\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-116770\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-Asian-salad-NEW.jpg\" alt='Bonnie Tsui showed some of the offensive names used for the supposedly \"Asian salad\" that is a mainstay on restaurant menus all over the country.' width=\"1920\" height=\"1607\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-Asian-salad-NEW.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-Asian-salad-NEW-160x134.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-Asian-salad-NEW-800x670.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-Asian-salad-NEW-768x643.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-Asian-salad-NEW-1020x854.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-Asian-salad-NEW-1180x988.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-Asian-salad-NEW-960x804.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-Asian-salad-NEW-240x201.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-Asian-salad-NEW-375x314.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-Asian-salad-NEW-520x435.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bonnie Tsui showed some of the offensive names used for the supposedly \"Asian salad\" that is a mainstay on restaurant menus all over the country. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Journalist \u003ca href=\"http://www.bonnietsui.com/\">Bonnie Tsui\u003c/a> shared her quest to solve “the curious case of the Asian salad,” a dish cooked up by non-Asians, which is so common on a swath of American restaurant menus that we don’t even question its Asian-ness. The mystery stems from its raw vegetable ingredients, which are not traditionally served in China. In the popular imagination, adding soy sauce or sesame oil somehow transforms it to being “Asian.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Tsui’s issue with this ubiquitous dish is less with its supposedly “Asian” ingredients and more with the variety of offensive names with which it is labeled at places like TGIFridays, Cheesecake Factory, Rainforest Café, and Applebee's. She showed slides of menus with names like “Asian Emperor salad,” “Oriental chop chop,” “Mr. Mao’s” and “secret Asian man.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even though the subject is just salad, Tsui views the use of broad terms to reference an entire continent as stereotypical. The problem is that the words are a blind spot for white people who don’t consider themselves racist. And even with a bowl of salad, words do matter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116773\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-116773\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/nourish-resist-NEW.jpg\" alt='Three members of the woman-led collaborative of people of color, Nourish/Resist, who spoke about micro-aggressions, macro-impact, \"staying woke\" and creating safe spaces.' width=\"1920\" height=\"1285\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/nourish-resist-NEW.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/nourish-resist-NEW-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/nourish-resist-NEW-800x535.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/nourish-resist-NEW-768x514.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/nourish-resist-NEW-1020x683.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/nourish-resist-NEW-1180x790.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/nourish-resist-NEW-960x643.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/nourish-resist-NEW-240x161.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/nourish-resist-NEW-375x251.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/nourish-resist-NEW-520x348.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Members of the woman-led collaborative of people of color, Nourish/Resist, urged people to disrupt micro-aggressions. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Three members of the \u003ca href=\"https://nourishresist.org/\">woman-led collaborative\u003c/a> of people of color, \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2017/04/04/fighting-trump-one-delicious-meal-at-a-time-with-nourishresist/\">Nourish/Resist\u003c/a>, encouraged audience members to check their language and privilege, \"stay woke\" and create safe spaces for stories of struggle and survival. They use food as a tool for resistance.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116765\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 467px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-116765\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-Michael-Twitty-2.jpg\" alt=\"Culinary historian Michael Twitty shares stories from his childhood that ultimately led him to focus on preparing, preserving and promoting African American foodways.\" width=\"467\" height=\"700\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-Michael-Twitty-2.jpg 467w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-Michael-Twitty-2-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-Michael-Twitty-2-240x360.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-Michael-Twitty-2-375x562.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 467px) 100vw, 467px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Culinary historian Michael Twitty shares stories from his childhood that ultimately led him to focus on preparing, preserving and promoting African American foodways. \u003ccite>(\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/JenBaxterSF/\">@JenBaxterSF\u003c/a>)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Culinary historian Michael Twitty, author of the award-winning blog \u003ca href=\"https://afroculinaria.com/\">Afroculinaria\u003c/a>, recounted that as a kid, he hated soul food and hated being black, even though he was “the great-grandson of Jim Crow people.” If he didn’t like The Wiz, of course, he hated collard greens and chitterlings. He called okra “an instrument of Black medieval torture” and longed for fast food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Until one day when his grandmother said, “we’re gonna make some lemonade” and started singing a song “lemonade, lemonade, made in the shade, stirred with a spade…” When he asked her about the song she told him it was a slave song passed down from her great-grandfather who was born into slavery. That piqued his curiosity and once he started asking questions, “the kitchen was filled with ancestors and I got to meet them.” He also learned the stories behind the iconic dishes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Chitterlings was the story of using the whole animal. People who had nothing could waste nothing. Collard greens represented strength.” When his grandmother said “we carried okra seeds in our hair,” he understood, that while seeds may not have literally been carried in hair, “they represent the seeds for everything we had carried in our heads and you couldn’t take that away from us.” So in teaching him about food, his grandmother taught him his own black history. As Twitty put it, “Teaching me not to hate my soul, but how to love it. “\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116771\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-116771\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/5-Saru-NEW.jpg\" alt=\"Saru Jayaraman of ROC exhorts the crowd to take action to end low wages, unfair practices and segregation in the restaurant industry.\" width=\"1000\" height=\"730\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/5-Saru-NEW.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/5-Saru-NEW-160x117.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/5-Saru-NEW-800x584.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/5-Saru-NEW-768x561.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/5-Saru-NEW-960x701.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/5-Saru-NEW-240x175.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/5-Saru-NEW-375x274.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/5-Saru-NEW-520x380.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Saru Jayaraman of ROC exhorts the crowd to take action to end low wages, unfair practices and segregation in the restaurant industry. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In her talk, entitled \"On Ending Jim Crow In The Bay Area Restaurant Industry,\" Saru Jayaraman of \u003ca href=\"http://rocunited.org/\">ROC United\u003c/a> (Restaurant Opportunities Centers United) discussed her organization’s goal to improve wages and working conditions for the nation’s 12 million restaurant workers. She reminded the audience that while white men can earn $150,000/year as fine dining servers or bartenders, the majority of food service workers are the lowest paid of all employees.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Jayaraman also shared the shocking news that numerous surveys in cities across the U.S. have found that the largest race-based wage gap in the country is found right here in the Bay Area, where there is a $5.50/hour gap between white workers and workers of color. “We are better than this,\" she told the audience. “We think we are progressive, but we are not and we participate in segregation every time we eat out. Each of us has to take a part in changing the way we eat out.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then she introduced noted chef, restaurateur and author \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Daniel_Patterson_(chef)\">Daniel Patterson\u003c/a>, who is spearheading a project with other chefs to desegregate their kitchens and collaborate on the \u003ca href=\"http://www.eastbayexpress.com/WhatTheFork/archives/2016/02/16/a-nonprofit-restaurant-in-east-oakland-will-aim-to-prioritize-people-over-profits\">upcoming COLORS restaurant\u003c/a> in Oakland. Located near the Fruitvale BART station, it will train hundred of workers of color. Patterson wants to create a model for standardizing hiring and promotions because “as long as there is implicit bias, you can train all the workers in the world but they will never get hired.” His goal is to change the face of fine dining “until fine dining does not resemble Trump's America.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116766\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1050px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-116766\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-Sugarfoot-2.jpg\" alt=\"Stephanie Fields shares her stories of growing up in the rural South and discovering La Cocina, where she got support for her business Sugarfoot.\" width=\"1050\" height=\"700\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-Sugarfoot-2.jpg 1050w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-Sugarfoot-2-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-Sugarfoot-2-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-Sugarfoot-2-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-Sugarfoot-2-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-Sugarfoot-2-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-Sugarfoot-2-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-Sugarfoot-2-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-Sugarfoot-2-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1050px) 100vw, 1050px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Stephanie Fields shares her stories of growing up in the rural South and discovering La Cocina, where she got support for her business Sugarfoot. \u003ccite>(\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/JenBaxterSF/\">@JenBaxterSF\u003c/a>)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>One of the most compelling stories of the evening was delivered by Stephanie Fields, of \u003ca href=\"http://www.sugarfootkitchen.com\">Sugarfoot Kitchen\u003c/a>, a “Southern comfort catering company,” and a graduate of La Cocina. Her pepper jelly turkey meatballs were a standout at the pre-show food tasting.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fields described her hometown of Henderson, North Carolina in the rural South, a place where the working poor are disillusioned and angry and 36% of residents live in poverty. In a town where 60% of the population is Black, she told us, “You can still call up the KKK for your daily dose of hate from Grand Wizard Mr. Bobbit (and she played his offensive phone recording to prove it). While her family often used the n-word in anger, Fields grew up with friends from both cultures.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116774\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-116774\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/turkey-meatballs-NEW.jpg\" alt=\"Stephanie Fields' moist and flavorful pepper turkey meatballs were a crowd pleaser.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/turkey-meatballs-NEW.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/turkey-meatballs-NEW-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/turkey-meatballs-NEW-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/turkey-meatballs-NEW-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/turkey-meatballs-NEW-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/turkey-meatballs-NEW-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/turkey-meatballs-NEW-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/turkey-meatballs-NEW-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/turkey-meatballs-NEW-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/turkey-meatballs-NEW-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Stephanie Fields' moist and flavorful pepper turkey meatballs were a crowd pleaser. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>She started her business through La Cocina’s incubator program in 2013 and plans to open her Southern restaurant in San Francisco’s Portola district this fall. But Fields confessed that a crisis of conscience almost caused her to close Sugarfoot just one month after she opened it. It happened when she read an open letter that Michael Twitty penned to \u003ca href=\"http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2013/06/19/paula-deen-racist-comments-n-word-caught-on-video_n_3467287.html\">Paula Deen after the uproar\u003c/a> about her use of racist comments. He wrote, “We are surrounded by culinary injustice where some Southerners take credit for things that enslaved Africans and their descendants played key roles in disseminating.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fields stated, “I had to make a choice not to be “some southerner.” After reading Twitty’s words, she realized that there would be no Southern food without slavery and wondered if she could still claim the food she grew up on -- the okra, collard greens and cheese grits -- as her own. After doing research and talking to friends across race and gender lines, she decided, “I am Southern and I had to eat something.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She also realized: “I cannot undo the pain, undo the shame and undo the history, but what I can do is acknowledge where this food comes from and I can be grateful and be kind.” “Empathy,” she added, “is being a member of a tribe that isn’t yours, but still is.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>The next \u003ca href=\"http://voicesfromthekitchen.org/\">F&B: Voices from the Kitchen\u003c/a> event will be on October 19 with the theme: \u003cstrong>Refuge\u003c/strong>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "La Cocina’s stirring storytelling performance on Race had writers, historians and activists discussing the connection between food and resistance. ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116767\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1050px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-116767\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-the-crowd-.jpg\" alt=\"A full house of engaged audience members learn from Voices from the Kitchen.\" width=\"1050\" height=\"700\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-the-crowd-.jpg 1050w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-the-crowd--160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-the-crowd--800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-the-crowd--768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-the-crowd--1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-the-crowd--960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-the-crowd--240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-the-crowd--375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-the-crowd--520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1050px) 100vw, 1050px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A full house of engaged audience members learn from Voices from the Kitchen. \u003ccite>(\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/JenBaxterSF/\">@JenBaxterSF\u003c/a>)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://voicesfromthekitchen.org/\" target=\"_blank\">F&B: Voices from the Kitchen\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://www.lacocinasf.org/\" target=\"_blank\">La Cocina\u003c/a>’s latest storytelling performance on April 7 at The Swedish American Hall featured the impassioned words of more than a dozen chefs, poets, writers, historians and activists on the topic of \u003ca href=\"http://voicesfromthekitchen.org/storytellers-1-1/\">\u003cstrong>Race\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>. The evening started with food and drinks from both well-known chefs and a couple of graduates from La Cocina’s Incubator program.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Some highlights from the two-hour performance:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116768\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-116768\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1-PKC-NEW.jpg\" alt=\"People’s Kitchen Collective: Saqib Keval, Sita Kuratomi Bhaumik and Jocelyn Jackson inspired the crowd with their words and songs.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1384\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1-PKC-NEW.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1-PKC-NEW-160x115.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1-PKC-NEW-800x577.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1-PKC-NEW-768x554.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1-PKC-NEW-1020x735.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1-PKC-NEW-1180x851.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1-PKC-NEW-960x692.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1-PKC-NEW-240x173.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1-PKC-NEW-375x270.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1-PKC-NEW-520x375.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">People’s Kitchen Collective: Saqib Keval, Sita Kuratomi Bhaumik and Jocelyn Jackson inspired the crowd with their words and songs. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Co-founders of the \u003ca href=\"http://peopleskitchencollective.com/\">People’s Kitchen Collective\u003c/a> (PKC) Saqib Keval, Sita Kuratomi Bhaumik and Jocelyn Jackson entered from the audience, while Jackson sang in a deep throaty voice, “We who believe in freedom cannot rest…until it’s found.” Then all three alternated with a barrage of wisdom: “We have so much fucking faith in the power of food to fix everything.” “For centuries, food has been a weapon...keeping us stuffed and starved.” “Food deserts are not a naturally occurring phenomenon.” “Food is a strategy for resistance.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116769\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-116769\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-PKC-BPP-NEW.jpg\" alt=\"The PKC shared the story of the Black Panther Party's hugely successful Free Breakfast Program.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1502\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-PKC-BPP-NEW.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-PKC-BPP-NEW-160x125.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-PKC-BPP-NEW-800x626.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-PKC-BPP-NEW-768x601.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-PKC-BPP-NEW-1020x798.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-PKC-BPP-NEW-1180x923.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-PKC-BPP-NEW-960x751.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-PKC-BPP-NEW-240x188.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-PKC-BPP-NEW-375x293.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-PKC-BPP-NEW-520x407.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The PKC shared the story of the Black Panther Party's hugely successful Free Breakfast Program. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As inspiration, they described the \u003ca href=\"http://www.pbs.org/independentlens/videos/free-breakfast-program/\">Black Panther Party’s Free Breakfast for School Children program\u003c/a> that began in Oakland in 1969 and in a few years fed over 100,000 children nationwide. It was so successful that it inspired fear in J. Edgar Hoover, the head of the FBI, who called it “the most dangerous domestic threat to national security.” The PKC explained that while the state was trying to keep food out of the hands of black and brown children, the Black Panther Party viewed breakfast as an active tool of resistance. The breakfast program was revolutionary. And now there are free breakfast and lunch programs in schools. Why don't they come with a history lesson? they ask. Why don’t we teach children the roots of that meal?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The three co-founders of the PKC then challenged the so-called “Farm to Table” movement to acknowledge that food does not magically make it from the farm to the table without the toil of people in the middle. It would be more accurately termed “Farm to Kitchen to Table.” And why, they asked, should this food be enjoyed only in restaurants? The meal can’t end at the table. It should be accessible to all people, so a better motto would be “Farm to Kitchen to Table to Streets.” And they exhorted the audience to take this message out on the streets.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116770\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-116770\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-Asian-salad-NEW.jpg\" alt='Bonnie Tsui showed some of the offensive names used for the supposedly \"Asian salad\" that is a mainstay on restaurant menus all over the country.' width=\"1920\" height=\"1607\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-Asian-salad-NEW.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-Asian-salad-NEW-160x134.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-Asian-salad-NEW-800x670.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-Asian-salad-NEW-768x643.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-Asian-salad-NEW-1020x854.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-Asian-salad-NEW-1180x988.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-Asian-salad-NEW-960x804.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-Asian-salad-NEW-240x201.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-Asian-salad-NEW-375x314.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-Asian-salad-NEW-520x435.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bonnie Tsui showed some of the offensive names used for the supposedly \"Asian salad\" that is a mainstay on restaurant menus all over the country. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Journalist \u003ca href=\"http://www.bonnietsui.com/\">Bonnie Tsui\u003c/a> shared her quest to solve “the curious case of the Asian salad,” a dish cooked up by non-Asians, which is so common on a swath of American restaurant menus that we don’t even question its Asian-ness. The mystery stems from its raw vegetable ingredients, which are not traditionally served in China. In the popular imagination, adding soy sauce or sesame oil somehow transforms it to being “Asian.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Tsui’s issue with this ubiquitous dish is less with its supposedly “Asian” ingredients and more with the variety of offensive names with which it is labeled at places like TGIFridays, Cheesecake Factory, Rainforest Café, and Applebee's. She showed slides of menus with names like “Asian Emperor salad,” “Oriental chop chop,” “Mr. Mao’s” and “secret Asian man.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even though the subject is just salad, Tsui views the use of broad terms to reference an entire continent as stereotypical. The problem is that the words are a blind spot for white people who don’t consider themselves racist. And even with a bowl of salad, words do matter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116773\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-116773\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/nourish-resist-NEW.jpg\" alt='Three members of the woman-led collaborative of people of color, Nourish/Resist, who spoke about micro-aggressions, macro-impact, \"staying woke\" and creating safe spaces.' width=\"1920\" height=\"1285\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/nourish-resist-NEW.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/nourish-resist-NEW-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/nourish-resist-NEW-800x535.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/nourish-resist-NEW-768x514.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/nourish-resist-NEW-1020x683.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/nourish-resist-NEW-1180x790.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/nourish-resist-NEW-960x643.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/nourish-resist-NEW-240x161.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/nourish-resist-NEW-375x251.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/nourish-resist-NEW-520x348.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Members of the woman-led collaborative of people of color, Nourish/Resist, urged people to disrupt micro-aggressions. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Three members of the \u003ca href=\"https://nourishresist.org/\">woman-led collaborative\u003c/a> of people of color, \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2017/04/04/fighting-trump-one-delicious-meal-at-a-time-with-nourishresist/\">Nourish/Resist\u003c/a>, encouraged audience members to check their language and privilege, \"stay woke\" and create safe spaces for stories of struggle and survival. They use food as a tool for resistance.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116765\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 467px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-116765\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-Michael-Twitty-2.jpg\" alt=\"Culinary historian Michael Twitty shares stories from his childhood that ultimately led him to focus on preparing, preserving and promoting African American foodways.\" width=\"467\" height=\"700\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-Michael-Twitty-2.jpg 467w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-Michael-Twitty-2-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-Michael-Twitty-2-240x360.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-Michael-Twitty-2-375x562.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 467px) 100vw, 467px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Culinary historian Michael Twitty shares stories from his childhood that ultimately led him to focus on preparing, preserving and promoting African American foodways. \u003ccite>(\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/JenBaxterSF/\">@JenBaxterSF\u003c/a>)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Culinary historian Michael Twitty, author of the award-winning blog \u003ca href=\"https://afroculinaria.com/\">Afroculinaria\u003c/a>, recounted that as a kid, he hated soul food and hated being black, even though he was “the great-grandson of Jim Crow people.” If he didn’t like The Wiz, of course, he hated collard greens and chitterlings. He called okra “an instrument of Black medieval torture” and longed for fast food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Until one day when his grandmother said, “we’re gonna make some lemonade” and started singing a song “lemonade, lemonade, made in the shade, stirred with a spade…” When he asked her about the song she told him it was a slave song passed down from her great-grandfather who was born into slavery. That piqued his curiosity and once he started asking questions, “the kitchen was filled with ancestors and I got to meet them.” He also learned the stories behind the iconic dishes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Chitterlings was the story of using the whole animal. People who had nothing could waste nothing. Collard greens represented strength.” When his grandmother said “we carried okra seeds in our hair,” he understood, that while seeds may not have literally been carried in hair, “they represent the seeds for everything we had carried in our heads and you couldn’t take that away from us.” So in teaching him about food, his grandmother taught him his own black history. As Twitty put it, “Teaching me not to hate my soul, but how to love it. “\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116771\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-116771\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/5-Saru-NEW.jpg\" alt=\"Saru Jayaraman of ROC exhorts the crowd to take action to end low wages, unfair practices and segregation in the restaurant industry.\" width=\"1000\" height=\"730\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/5-Saru-NEW.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/5-Saru-NEW-160x117.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/5-Saru-NEW-800x584.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/5-Saru-NEW-768x561.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/5-Saru-NEW-960x701.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/5-Saru-NEW-240x175.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/5-Saru-NEW-375x274.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/5-Saru-NEW-520x380.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Saru Jayaraman of ROC exhorts the crowd to take action to end low wages, unfair practices and segregation in the restaurant industry. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In her talk, entitled \"On Ending Jim Crow In The Bay Area Restaurant Industry,\" Saru Jayaraman of \u003ca href=\"http://rocunited.org/\">ROC United\u003c/a> (Restaurant Opportunities Centers United) discussed her organization’s goal to improve wages and working conditions for the nation’s 12 million restaurant workers. She reminded the audience that while white men can earn $150,000/year as fine dining servers or bartenders, the majority of food service workers are the lowest paid of all employees.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Jayaraman also shared the shocking news that numerous surveys in cities across the U.S. have found that the largest race-based wage gap in the country is found right here in the Bay Area, where there is a $5.50/hour gap between white workers and workers of color. “We are better than this,\" she told the audience. “We think we are progressive, but we are not and we participate in segregation every time we eat out. Each of us has to take a part in changing the way we eat out.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then she introduced noted chef, restaurateur and author \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Daniel_Patterson_(chef)\">Daniel Patterson\u003c/a>, who is spearheading a project with other chefs to desegregate their kitchens and collaborate on the \u003ca href=\"http://www.eastbayexpress.com/WhatTheFork/archives/2016/02/16/a-nonprofit-restaurant-in-east-oakland-will-aim-to-prioritize-people-over-profits\">upcoming COLORS restaurant\u003c/a> in Oakland. Located near the Fruitvale BART station, it will train hundred of workers of color. Patterson wants to create a model for standardizing hiring and promotions because “as long as there is implicit bias, you can train all the workers in the world but they will never get hired.” His goal is to change the face of fine dining “until fine dining does not resemble Trump's America.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116766\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1050px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-116766\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-Sugarfoot-2.jpg\" alt=\"Stephanie Fields shares her stories of growing up in the rural South and discovering La Cocina, where she got support for her business Sugarfoot.\" width=\"1050\" height=\"700\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-Sugarfoot-2.jpg 1050w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-Sugarfoot-2-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-Sugarfoot-2-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-Sugarfoot-2-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-Sugarfoot-2-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-Sugarfoot-2-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-Sugarfoot-2-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-Sugarfoot-2-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-Sugarfoot-2-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1050px) 100vw, 1050px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Stephanie Fields shares her stories of growing up in the rural South and discovering La Cocina, where she got support for her business Sugarfoot. \u003ccite>(\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/JenBaxterSF/\">@JenBaxterSF\u003c/a>)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>One of the most compelling stories of the evening was delivered by Stephanie Fields, of \u003ca href=\"http://www.sugarfootkitchen.com\">Sugarfoot Kitchen\u003c/a>, a “Southern comfort catering company,” and a graduate of La Cocina. Her pepper jelly turkey meatballs were a standout at the pre-show food tasting.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fields described her hometown of Henderson, North Carolina in the rural South, a place where the working poor are disillusioned and angry and 36% of residents live in poverty. In a town where 60% of the population is Black, she told us, “You can still call up the KKK for your daily dose of hate from Grand Wizard Mr. Bobbit (and she played his offensive phone recording to prove it). While her family often used the n-word in anger, Fields grew up with friends from both cultures.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116774\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-116774\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/turkey-meatballs-NEW.jpg\" alt=\"Stephanie Fields' moist and flavorful pepper turkey meatballs were a crowd pleaser.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/turkey-meatballs-NEW.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/turkey-meatballs-NEW-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/turkey-meatballs-NEW-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/turkey-meatballs-NEW-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/turkey-meatballs-NEW-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/turkey-meatballs-NEW-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/turkey-meatballs-NEW-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/turkey-meatballs-NEW-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/turkey-meatballs-NEW-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/turkey-meatballs-NEW-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Stephanie Fields' moist and flavorful pepper turkey meatballs were a crowd pleaser. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>She started her business through La Cocina’s incubator program in 2013 and plans to open her Southern restaurant in San Francisco’s Portola district this fall. But Fields confessed that a crisis of conscience almost caused her to close Sugarfoot just one month after she opened it. It happened when she read an open letter that Michael Twitty penned to \u003ca href=\"http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2013/06/19/paula-deen-racist-comments-n-word-caught-on-video_n_3467287.html\">Paula Deen after the uproar\u003c/a> about her use of racist comments. He wrote, “We are surrounded by culinary injustice where some Southerners take credit for things that enslaved Africans and their descendants played key roles in disseminating.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fields stated, “I had to make a choice not to be “some southerner.” After reading Twitty’s words, she realized that there would be no Southern food without slavery and wondered if she could still claim the food she grew up on -- the okra, collard greens and cheese grits -- as her own. After doing research and talking to friends across race and gender lines, she decided, “I am Southern and I had to eat something.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She also realized: “I cannot undo the pain, undo the shame and undo the history, but what I can do is acknowledge where this food comes from and I can be grateful and be kind.” “Empathy,” she added, “is being a member of a tribe that isn’t yours, but still is.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>The next \u003ca href=\"http://voicesfromthekitchen.org/\">F&B: Voices from the Kitchen\u003c/a> event will be on October 19 with the theme: \u003cstrong>Refuge\u003c/strong>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Duncan Hines: The Original Road Warrior Who Shaped Restaurant History",
"title": "Duncan Hines: The Original Road Warrior Who Shaped Restaurant History",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>Duncan Hines, traveling salesman and future purveyor of boxed cake mix, considered himself an authority on a great many things: hot coffee, Kentucky country-cured ham and how to locate a tasty restaurant meal, in 1935, for under a dollar and a quarter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By the 1950s, Hines' name would be plastered on boxes of cake mix; housewives would turn to his products for consistent quality and superior taste. Newspaper photographs featured Hines clad in a white chef's apron, hoisting a neatly frosted cake or thoughtfully dipping a spoon into a mixing bowl.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116337\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/dhhat65_m_custom-c3cfa51a909bf427cf6aa0fc00cdd64c01232b67-1020x1422.jpg\" alt=\"Duncan Hines wasn't a chef, he was a businessman looking for a decent meal on the road.\" width=\"640\" height=\"892\" class=\"size-large wp-image-116337\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/dhhat65_m_custom-c3cfa51a909bf427cf6aa0fc00cdd64c01232b67-1020x1422.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/dhhat65_m_custom-c3cfa51a909bf427cf6aa0fc00cdd64c01232b67-160x223.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/dhhat65_m_custom-c3cfa51a909bf427cf6aa0fc00cdd64c01232b67-800x1115.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/dhhat65_m_custom-c3cfa51a909bf427cf6aa0fc00cdd64c01232b67-768x1070.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/dhhat65_m_custom-c3cfa51a909bf427cf6aa0fc00cdd64c01232b67-1180x1645.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/dhhat65_m_custom-c3cfa51a909bf427cf6aa0fc00cdd64c01232b67-960x1338.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/dhhat65_m_custom-c3cfa51a909bf427cf6aa0fc00cdd64c01232b67-240x334.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/dhhat65_m_custom-c3cfa51a909bf427cf6aa0fc00cdd64c01232b67-375x523.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/dhhat65_m_custom-c3cfa51a909bf427cf6aa0fc00cdd64c01232b67-520x725.jpg 520w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/dhhat65_m_custom-c3cfa51a909bf427cf6aa0fc00cdd64c01232b67.jpg 1435w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Duncan Hines wasn't a chef, he was a businessman looking for a decent meal on the road. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Department of Special Collections-WKU)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>But Duncan Hines wasn't a chef — in truth, he could barely cook. For most of his career, he had just been a businessman, desperate for a decent meal on the road. Through his search for the best restaurants across America, he became an accidental gourmand, an unlikely author and homegrown connoisseur.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Although boxed cake mix is the legacy that most people now associate with Duncan Hines (only after asking, \"Was he actually a real person?\") the supermarket foods that bear his name are only an epilogue to a storied life traveling America's back roads.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was really his book, \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Adventures-Good-Eating-Highways-America/dp/B0013H5RUC/ref=sr_1_15?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1489697718&sr=1-15\">Adventures in Good Eating\u003c/a>\u003c/em>, that first put Duncan Hines on the map. And it was his tireless pursuit of good food that inspired his book.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>A decent meal\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hines' appreciation for a good meal arose out of mere necessity. From the 1920s through the '40s, he motored across the country hawking letter openers and paperclips and subsisting on unreliable road food. It was an era long before any formal restaurant rating system existed in the U.S. The names and locations of good restaurants were conveyed by word of mouth; for an out-of-town traveler, locating a decent supper was often a daunting and discouraging mission. And although Europe had relied on \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.businessinsider.com/history-of-the-michelin-guide-2014-10\">The Michelin Guide\u003c/a>\u003c/em> since 1900, middle America in the 1920s and '30s was still a land of culinary mystery and inconsistency.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116338\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/fullsizerender-3-_vert-58e17d3f718db017e44db4721b202298eb93f3e4-1020x1362.jpg\" alt='1946 copy of \"Adventures in Good Eating.\"' width=\"640\" height=\"855\" class=\"size-large wp-image-116338\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/fullsizerender-3-_vert-58e17d3f718db017e44db4721b202298eb93f3e4-1020x1362.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/fullsizerender-3-_vert-58e17d3f718db017e44db4721b202298eb93f3e4-160x214.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/fullsizerender-3-_vert-58e17d3f718db017e44db4721b202298eb93f3e4-800x1068.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/fullsizerender-3-_vert-58e17d3f718db017e44db4721b202298eb93f3e4-768x1025.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/fullsizerender-3-_vert-58e17d3f718db017e44db4721b202298eb93f3e4-1180x1575.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/fullsizerender-3-_vert-58e17d3f718db017e44db4721b202298eb93f3e4-960x1282.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/fullsizerender-3-_vert-58e17d3f718db017e44db4721b202298eb93f3e4-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/fullsizerender-3-_vert-58e17d3f718db017e44db4721b202298eb93f3e4-375x501.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/fullsizerender-3-_vert-58e17d3f718db017e44db4721b202298eb93f3e4-520x694.jpg 520w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/fullsizerender-3-_vert-58e17d3f718db017e44db4721b202298eb93f3e4.jpg 1462w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">1946 copy of \"Adventures in Good Eating.\" \u003ccite>(Nicole Jankowski for NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>It was also a time of growing wanderlust. Highways such as \u003ca href=\"http://www.theroute-66.com/history.html\">Route 66\u003c/a> were connecting small towns, and eager motorists often embarked on weekend road trips. According to the \u003ca href=\"http://www.umich.edu/~drivein/restaurant.html\">University of Michigan\u003c/a>, in the '20s \"the number of automobiles in America rose from eight million to twenty-three million and along with the increase came thousands of barbeque shacks, ice cream stands and diners.\" Many new restaurants were not listed on maps. And they were often hidden on dusty back roads that health inspectors didn't travel. (Even if they did, there was no standard for restaurant food safety in America at that time.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Desperate for a clean place to dine, Hines became an investigative epicurean and self-made restaurant critic. He carried a tiny journal in his coat pocket, jotting down the precise locations of his favorite places. No restaurant was off limits for the inquisitive Hines. \"The kitchen is the first spot I inspect in an eating place,\" he wrote. \"More people will die from hit or miss eating than from hit and run driving,\" he joked — though Hines clearly thought food safety was no laughing matter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He frequently popped into the kitchen to scrutinize how staff handled food and then swung around back to investigate the restaurant's garbage pile. He meticulously recorded the names of the most pristine diners, the inns with the tastiest prime roast beef, and where to find the stickiest honey buns. He appreciated regional cuisine, quickly discovering in which part of the country to brake for broiled lobster tail (New England) and where to stop for fried chicken (Kentucky).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hines noted whether a restaurant had air conditioning, its hours of operation and its prices for breakfast, lunch and dinner. \"His restaurant notes were extraordinarily accurate,\" says \u003ca href=\"http://www.louishatchett.com/\">Louis Hatchett\u003c/a>, author of the book, \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Duncan-Hines-Traveling-Salesman-Trusted-ebook/dp/B00K6RV2RW/ref=as_li_ss_il?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1461969049&sr=1-2&linkCode=li3&tag=louishatchett-20&linkId=4f13ce70b762b7edff2e6f3db547bb9c\">Duncan Hines: How a Traveling Salesman Became the Most Trusted Name in Food\u003c/a>\u003c/em>. \"As word spread among his family and friends, people were begging him to share the list he had created. There was nothing out there like it,\" he says. \"In 1935, sick of being pestered, he finally sent out a little blue pamphlet in his Christmas cards, containing a list of 167 restaurants across 33 states that he could safely recommend.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Soon, Hines was receiving postcards from from salesmen, newlyweds and other travelers all over America seeking his recommendations for good, clean restaurants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 1936, at 55, Hines self-published his first edition of \u003cem>Adventures in Good Eating \u003c/em>and sold them for $1 each. It contained the names and locations of 475 restaurants from coast to coast that had Hines' rigorous seal of approval. \"The books were sold through word of mouth, but they quickly sold out. The following year he raised the guide's price to $1.50 — and that's where the price would stay for the next 25 years,\" explains Hatchett.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Each year, until he retired in 1954, Hines broadened his exploration of America's restaurants and published an updated edition of \u003cem>Adventures in Good Eating\u003c/em>. Restaurants fell in and out of Hines' favor — if they could not deliver a quality meal or allow a peek into the kitchen, they were removed from the book. He refused to accept any advertisements or endorsements from restaurants in exchange for reviews. Millions of discerning travelers kept his book in their glove compartments to guide them as they rumbled down gravelly country roads in unfamiliar locations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116339\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/2017.03.20_-kentucky-museum-_lewis-0007_custom-136a788861350cdb4c40acb85a38493a05bef947.jpg\" alt=\"A roadside sign advertising Duncan Hines' Adventures in Good Eating is on display at the Kentucky Museum at Western Kentucky University.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1071\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116339\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/2017.03.20_-kentucky-museum-_lewis-0007_custom-136a788861350cdb4c40acb85a38493a05bef947.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/2017.03.20_-kentucky-museum-_lewis-0007_custom-136a788861350cdb4c40acb85a38493a05bef947-160x86.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/2017.03.20_-kentucky-museum-_lewis-0007_custom-136a788861350cdb4c40acb85a38493a05bef947-800x428.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/2017.03.20_-kentucky-museum-_lewis-0007_custom-136a788861350cdb4c40acb85a38493a05bef947-768x411.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/2017.03.20_-kentucky-museum-_lewis-0007_custom-136a788861350cdb4c40acb85a38493a05bef947-1020x546.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/2017.03.20_-kentucky-museum-_lewis-0007_custom-136a788861350cdb4c40acb85a38493a05bef947-1180x632.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/2017.03.20_-kentucky-museum-_lewis-0007_custom-136a788861350cdb4c40acb85a38493a05bef947-960x514.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/2017.03.20_-kentucky-museum-_lewis-0007_custom-136a788861350cdb4c40acb85a38493a05bef947-240x129.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/2017.03.20_-kentucky-museum-_lewis-0007_custom-136a788861350cdb4c40acb85a38493a05bef947-375x201.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/2017.03.20_-kentucky-museum-_lewis-0007_custom-136a788861350cdb4c40acb85a38493a05bef947-520x278.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A roadside sign advertising Duncan Hines' Adventures in Good Eating is on display at the Kentucky Museum at Western Kentucky University. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Clinton Lewis/Kentucky Museum/Western Kentucky University)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"Recommended by Duncan Hines\" became the gold standard in dining by the 1950s. Restaurants endorsed by Hines tacked up metal signs in their front windows. As his authority grew, Hines published \u003ca href=\"https://archive.org/stream/lodgingfornight00hinerich/lodgingfornight00hinerich_djvu.txt\">\u003cem>Lodging for a Night\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem> \u003c/em>(1938)\u003cem> \u003c/em>and \u003ca href=\"https://archive.org/details/adventuresingood00hine\">\u003cem>Adventures\u003c/em>\u003cem> in Good Cooking (Famous Recipes) and the Art of Carving in the Home\u003c/em>\u003c/a> (1939). In 1952, when Hines was 72, he partnered with \u003ca href=\"http://parklibrary.mj.unc.edu/about/royhpark/\">Roy H. Park\u003c/a> to form Hines-Park in Ithaca, N.Y., allowing the \u003ca href=\"https://www.duncanhines.com/\">Duncan Hines name\u003c/a> to appear on everything from cartons of ice cream to the now-famous cake mixes. Two years before his death in March of 1959, the entire franchise was sold to Procter & Gamble.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Renewed interest\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Thanks to Ebay and rare book vendors, there is resurging interest in \u003cem>Adventures in Good Cooking\u003c/em>. History lovers and discriminating foodies congregate on the forums of \u003ca href=\"https://roadfood.com/\">Roadfood.com\u003c/a> to share modern forays into Hines' antiquated restaurant scene.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116340\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1572px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/dhicecream_custom-63422629e17403e37441bfc4486005f7c6228524.jpg\" alt='A 1950s ad for Duncan Hines ice cream quotes Hines as saying \"Many people tell me they first bought it because they regard my name as a guide to good eating.\"' width=\"1572\" height=\"2000\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116340\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/dhicecream_custom-63422629e17403e37441bfc4486005f7c6228524.jpg 1572w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/dhicecream_custom-63422629e17403e37441bfc4486005f7c6228524-160x204.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/dhicecream_custom-63422629e17403e37441bfc4486005f7c6228524-800x1018.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/dhicecream_custom-63422629e17403e37441bfc4486005f7c6228524-768x977.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/dhicecream_custom-63422629e17403e37441bfc4486005f7c6228524-1020x1298.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/dhicecream_custom-63422629e17403e37441bfc4486005f7c6228524-1180x1501.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/dhicecream_custom-63422629e17403e37441bfc4486005f7c6228524-960x1221.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/dhicecream_custom-63422629e17403e37441bfc4486005f7c6228524-240x305.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/dhicecream_custom-63422629e17403e37441bfc4486005f7c6228524-375x477.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/dhicecream_custom-63422629e17403e37441bfc4486005f7c6228524-520x662.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1572px) 100vw, 1572px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A 1950s ad for Duncan Hines ice cream quotes Hines as saying \"Many people tell me they first bought it because they regard my name as a guide to good eating.\" \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Department of Special Collections-WKU)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Jim Pfefferle, a forum member and engineer from Wisconsin, views Duncan Hines' swift rise to fame as compelling as the material in his books. \"It's kind of meteoric, what Duncan Hines did,\" Pfefferle tells NPR. \"He was unknown when he published his first guidebook in 1936 and then there was a World War. By 1951 he was famous, the one person in the United States that anyone would go to for an authority on food. Less than 10 years later, he was gone.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pfefferle, along with other members of the forum, has spent the past two years painstakingly gathering a list of restaurants from Hines' books that are still in operation. He says it has been an intimidating task filled with many gastronomic dead-ends, but he believes that about 37 of the original 167 restaurants on Hines' 1935 list remain.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hines often said, \"Nearly everyone wants at least one outstanding meal a day.\" This seems as true now as it did a half-century ago. But long before \u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com\">Yelp\u003c/a> or \u003ca href=\"https://www.tripadvisor.com/\">TripAdvisor\u003c/a> offered restaurant reviews with the click of a button, Hines was doing it his own way, by traveling the highway with his pencil and notebook, changing the way America ate on the open road — one adventure at a time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Nicole Jankowski is a freelance food, history and culture writer based in Detroit. You can find her on \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/momof4istired/\">Facebook\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cem>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Duncan Hines, traveling salesman and future purveyor of boxed cake mix, considered himself an authority on a great many things: hot coffee, Kentucky country-cured ham and how to locate a tasty restaurant meal, in 1935, for under a dollar and a quarter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By the 1950s, Hines' name would be plastered on boxes of cake mix; housewives would turn to his products for consistent quality and superior taste. Newspaper photographs featured Hines clad in a white chef's apron, hoisting a neatly frosted cake or thoughtfully dipping a spoon into a mixing bowl.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116337\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/dhhat65_m_custom-c3cfa51a909bf427cf6aa0fc00cdd64c01232b67-1020x1422.jpg\" alt=\"Duncan Hines wasn't a chef, he was a businessman looking for a decent meal on the road.\" width=\"640\" height=\"892\" class=\"size-large wp-image-116337\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/dhhat65_m_custom-c3cfa51a909bf427cf6aa0fc00cdd64c01232b67-1020x1422.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/dhhat65_m_custom-c3cfa51a909bf427cf6aa0fc00cdd64c01232b67-160x223.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/dhhat65_m_custom-c3cfa51a909bf427cf6aa0fc00cdd64c01232b67-800x1115.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/dhhat65_m_custom-c3cfa51a909bf427cf6aa0fc00cdd64c01232b67-768x1070.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/dhhat65_m_custom-c3cfa51a909bf427cf6aa0fc00cdd64c01232b67-1180x1645.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/dhhat65_m_custom-c3cfa51a909bf427cf6aa0fc00cdd64c01232b67-960x1338.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/dhhat65_m_custom-c3cfa51a909bf427cf6aa0fc00cdd64c01232b67-240x334.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/dhhat65_m_custom-c3cfa51a909bf427cf6aa0fc00cdd64c01232b67-375x523.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/dhhat65_m_custom-c3cfa51a909bf427cf6aa0fc00cdd64c01232b67-520x725.jpg 520w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/dhhat65_m_custom-c3cfa51a909bf427cf6aa0fc00cdd64c01232b67.jpg 1435w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Duncan Hines wasn't a chef, he was a businessman looking for a decent meal on the road. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Department of Special Collections-WKU)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>But Duncan Hines wasn't a chef — in truth, he could barely cook. For most of his career, he had just been a businessman, desperate for a decent meal on the road. Through his search for the best restaurants across America, he became an accidental gourmand, an unlikely author and homegrown connoisseur.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Although boxed cake mix is the legacy that most people now associate with Duncan Hines (only after asking, \"Was he actually a real person?\") the supermarket foods that bear his name are only an epilogue to a storied life traveling America's back roads.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was really his book, \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Adventures-Good-Eating-Highways-America/dp/B0013H5RUC/ref=sr_1_15?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1489697718&sr=1-15\">Adventures in Good Eating\u003c/a>\u003c/em>, that first put Duncan Hines on the map. And it was his tireless pursuit of good food that inspired his book.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>A decent meal\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hines' appreciation for a good meal arose out of mere necessity. From the 1920s through the '40s, he motored across the country hawking letter openers and paperclips and subsisting on unreliable road food. It was an era long before any formal restaurant rating system existed in the U.S. The names and locations of good restaurants were conveyed by word of mouth; for an out-of-town traveler, locating a decent supper was often a daunting and discouraging mission. And although Europe had relied on \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.businessinsider.com/history-of-the-michelin-guide-2014-10\">The Michelin Guide\u003c/a>\u003c/em> since 1900, middle America in the 1920s and '30s was still a land of culinary mystery and inconsistency.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116338\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/fullsizerender-3-_vert-58e17d3f718db017e44db4721b202298eb93f3e4-1020x1362.jpg\" alt='1946 copy of \"Adventures in Good Eating.\"' width=\"640\" height=\"855\" class=\"size-large wp-image-116338\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/fullsizerender-3-_vert-58e17d3f718db017e44db4721b202298eb93f3e4-1020x1362.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/fullsizerender-3-_vert-58e17d3f718db017e44db4721b202298eb93f3e4-160x214.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/fullsizerender-3-_vert-58e17d3f718db017e44db4721b202298eb93f3e4-800x1068.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/fullsizerender-3-_vert-58e17d3f718db017e44db4721b202298eb93f3e4-768x1025.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/fullsizerender-3-_vert-58e17d3f718db017e44db4721b202298eb93f3e4-1180x1575.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/fullsizerender-3-_vert-58e17d3f718db017e44db4721b202298eb93f3e4-960x1282.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/fullsizerender-3-_vert-58e17d3f718db017e44db4721b202298eb93f3e4-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/fullsizerender-3-_vert-58e17d3f718db017e44db4721b202298eb93f3e4-375x501.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/fullsizerender-3-_vert-58e17d3f718db017e44db4721b202298eb93f3e4-520x694.jpg 520w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/fullsizerender-3-_vert-58e17d3f718db017e44db4721b202298eb93f3e4.jpg 1462w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">1946 copy of \"Adventures in Good Eating.\" \u003ccite>(Nicole Jankowski for NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>It was also a time of growing wanderlust. Highways such as \u003ca href=\"http://www.theroute-66.com/history.html\">Route 66\u003c/a> were connecting small towns, and eager motorists often embarked on weekend road trips. According to the \u003ca href=\"http://www.umich.edu/~drivein/restaurant.html\">University of Michigan\u003c/a>, in the '20s \"the number of automobiles in America rose from eight million to twenty-three million and along with the increase came thousands of barbeque shacks, ice cream stands and diners.\" Many new restaurants were not listed on maps. And they were often hidden on dusty back roads that health inspectors didn't travel. (Even if they did, there was no standard for restaurant food safety in America at that time.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Desperate for a clean place to dine, Hines became an investigative epicurean and self-made restaurant critic. He carried a tiny journal in his coat pocket, jotting down the precise locations of his favorite places. No restaurant was off limits for the inquisitive Hines. \"The kitchen is the first spot I inspect in an eating place,\" he wrote. \"More people will die from hit or miss eating than from hit and run driving,\" he joked — though Hines clearly thought food safety was no laughing matter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He frequently popped into the kitchen to scrutinize how staff handled food and then swung around back to investigate the restaurant's garbage pile. He meticulously recorded the names of the most pristine diners, the inns with the tastiest prime roast beef, and where to find the stickiest honey buns. He appreciated regional cuisine, quickly discovering in which part of the country to brake for broiled lobster tail (New England) and where to stop for fried chicken (Kentucky).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hines noted whether a restaurant had air conditioning, its hours of operation and its prices for breakfast, lunch and dinner. \"His restaurant notes were extraordinarily accurate,\" says \u003ca href=\"http://www.louishatchett.com/\">Louis Hatchett\u003c/a>, author of the book, \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Duncan-Hines-Traveling-Salesman-Trusted-ebook/dp/B00K6RV2RW/ref=as_li_ss_il?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1461969049&sr=1-2&linkCode=li3&tag=louishatchett-20&linkId=4f13ce70b762b7edff2e6f3db547bb9c\">Duncan Hines: How a Traveling Salesman Became the Most Trusted Name in Food\u003c/a>\u003c/em>. \"As word spread among his family and friends, people were begging him to share the list he had created. There was nothing out there like it,\" he says. \"In 1935, sick of being pestered, he finally sent out a little blue pamphlet in his Christmas cards, containing a list of 167 restaurants across 33 states that he could safely recommend.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Soon, Hines was receiving postcards from from salesmen, newlyweds and other travelers all over America seeking his recommendations for good, clean restaurants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 1936, at 55, Hines self-published his first edition of \u003cem>Adventures in Good Eating \u003c/em>and sold them for $1 each. It contained the names and locations of 475 restaurants from coast to coast that had Hines' rigorous seal of approval. \"The books were sold through word of mouth, but they quickly sold out. The following year he raised the guide's price to $1.50 — and that's where the price would stay for the next 25 years,\" explains Hatchett.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Each year, until he retired in 1954, Hines broadened his exploration of America's restaurants and published an updated edition of \u003cem>Adventures in Good Eating\u003c/em>. Restaurants fell in and out of Hines' favor — if they could not deliver a quality meal or allow a peek into the kitchen, they were removed from the book. He refused to accept any advertisements or endorsements from restaurants in exchange for reviews. Millions of discerning travelers kept his book in their glove compartments to guide them as they rumbled down gravelly country roads in unfamiliar locations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116339\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/2017.03.20_-kentucky-museum-_lewis-0007_custom-136a788861350cdb4c40acb85a38493a05bef947.jpg\" alt=\"A roadside sign advertising Duncan Hines' Adventures in Good Eating is on display at the Kentucky Museum at Western Kentucky University.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1071\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116339\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/2017.03.20_-kentucky-museum-_lewis-0007_custom-136a788861350cdb4c40acb85a38493a05bef947.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/2017.03.20_-kentucky-museum-_lewis-0007_custom-136a788861350cdb4c40acb85a38493a05bef947-160x86.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/2017.03.20_-kentucky-museum-_lewis-0007_custom-136a788861350cdb4c40acb85a38493a05bef947-800x428.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/2017.03.20_-kentucky-museum-_lewis-0007_custom-136a788861350cdb4c40acb85a38493a05bef947-768x411.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/2017.03.20_-kentucky-museum-_lewis-0007_custom-136a788861350cdb4c40acb85a38493a05bef947-1020x546.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/2017.03.20_-kentucky-museum-_lewis-0007_custom-136a788861350cdb4c40acb85a38493a05bef947-1180x632.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/2017.03.20_-kentucky-museum-_lewis-0007_custom-136a788861350cdb4c40acb85a38493a05bef947-960x514.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/2017.03.20_-kentucky-museum-_lewis-0007_custom-136a788861350cdb4c40acb85a38493a05bef947-240x129.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/2017.03.20_-kentucky-museum-_lewis-0007_custom-136a788861350cdb4c40acb85a38493a05bef947-375x201.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/2017.03.20_-kentucky-museum-_lewis-0007_custom-136a788861350cdb4c40acb85a38493a05bef947-520x278.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A roadside sign advertising Duncan Hines' Adventures in Good Eating is on display at the Kentucky Museum at Western Kentucky University. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Clinton Lewis/Kentucky Museum/Western Kentucky University)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"Recommended by Duncan Hines\" became the gold standard in dining by the 1950s. Restaurants endorsed by Hines tacked up metal signs in their front windows. As his authority grew, Hines published \u003ca href=\"https://archive.org/stream/lodgingfornight00hinerich/lodgingfornight00hinerich_djvu.txt\">\u003cem>Lodging for a Night\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem> \u003c/em>(1938)\u003cem> \u003c/em>and \u003ca href=\"https://archive.org/details/adventuresingood00hine\">\u003cem>Adventures\u003c/em>\u003cem> in Good Cooking (Famous Recipes) and the Art of Carving in the Home\u003c/em>\u003c/a> (1939). In 1952, when Hines was 72, he partnered with \u003ca href=\"http://parklibrary.mj.unc.edu/about/royhpark/\">Roy H. Park\u003c/a> to form Hines-Park in Ithaca, N.Y., allowing the \u003ca href=\"https://www.duncanhines.com/\">Duncan Hines name\u003c/a> to appear on everything from cartons of ice cream to the now-famous cake mixes. Two years before his death in March of 1959, the entire franchise was sold to Procter & Gamble.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Renewed interest\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Thanks to Ebay and rare book vendors, there is resurging interest in \u003cem>Adventures in Good Cooking\u003c/em>. History lovers and discriminating foodies congregate on the forums of \u003ca href=\"https://roadfood.com/\">Roadfood.com\u003c/a> to share modern forays into Hines' antiquated restaurant scene.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116340\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1572px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/dhicecream_custom-63422629e17403e37441bfc4486005f7c6228524.jpg\" alt='A 1950s ad for Duncan Hines ice cream quotes Hines as saying \"Many people tell me they first bought it because they regard my name as a guide to good eating.\"' width=\"1572\" height=\"2000\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116340\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/dhicecream_custom-63422629e17403e37441bfc4486005f7c6228524.jpg 1572w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/dhicecream_custom-63422629e17403e37441bfc4486005f7c6228524-160x204.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/dhicecream_custom-63422629e17403e37441bfc4486005f7c6228524-800x1018.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/dhicecream_custom-63422629e17403e37441bfc4486005f7c6228524-768x977.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/dhicecream_custom-63422629e17403e37441bfc4486005f7c6228524-1020x1298.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/dhicecream_custom-63422629e17403e37441bfc4486005f7c6228524-1180x1501.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/dhicecream_custom-63422629e17403e37441bfc4486005f7c6228524-960x1221.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/dhicecream_custom-63422629e17403e37441bfc4486005f7c6228524-240x305.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/dhicecream_custom-63422629e17403e37441bfc4486005f7c6228524-375x477.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/dhicecream_custom-63422629e17403e37441bfc4486005f7c6228524-520x662.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1572px) 100vw, 1572px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A 1950s ad for Duncan Hines ice cream quotes Hines as saying \"Many people tell me they first bought it because they regard my name as a guide to good eating.\" \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Department of Special Collections-WKU)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Jim Pfefferle, a forum member and engineer from Wisconsin, views Duncan Hines' swift rise to fame as compelling as the material in his books. \"It's kind of meteoric, what Duncan Hines did,\" Pfefferle tells NPR. \"He was unknown when he published his first guidebook in 1936 and then there was a World War. By 1951 he was famous, the one person in the United States that anyone would go to for an authority on food. Less than 10 years later, he was gone.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pfefferle, along with other members of the forum, has spent the past two years painstakingly gathering a list of restaurants from Hines' books that are still in operation. He says it has been an intimidating task filled with many gastronomic dead-ends, but he believes that about 37 of the original 167 restaurants on Hines' 1935 list remain.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hines often said, \"Nearly everyone wants at least one outstanding meal a day.\" This seems as true now as it did a half-century ago. But long before \u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com\">Yelp\u003c/a> or \u003ca href=\"https://www.tripadvisor.com/\">TripAdvisor\u003c/a> offered restaurant reviews with the click of a button, Hines was doing it his own way, by traveling the highway with his pencil and notebook, changing the way America ate on the open road — one adventure at a time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Nicole Jankowski is a freelance food, history and culture writer based in Detroit. You can find her on \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/momof4istired/\">Facebook\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "Looking Into The Horse Milk Story That The Dalai Lama Told John Oliver",
"title": "Looking Into The Horse Milk Story That The Dalai Lama Told John Oliver",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>Like so many countries from the former Soviet bloc, Mongolia faced a terrible economic upheaval at the end of the Soviet Union. In the first few years, inflation went up over 250 percent; employment went down.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And people started drinking much more heavily. \"Alcoholism was devastating during the economic hardships of the '90s,\" writes Jargalsaikhan Mendee, a political scientist and former Mongolian defense attaché to the United States, in an email to Goats and Soda.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_115817\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/screen-shot-2017-03-09-at-12.13.19-pm-50-c8efe3b163a97e1f1653deebfe26934d8ec7cb1c-1020x765.jpg\" alt=\"The Dalai Lama has a conversation with John Oliver — and fermented horse milk comes up.\" width=\"640\" height=\"480\" class=\"size-large wp-image-115817\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/screen-shot-2017-03-09-at-12.13.19-pm-50-c8efe3b163a97e1f1653deebfe26934d8ec7cb1c-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/screen-shot-2017-03-09-at-12.13.19-pm-50-c8efe3b163a97e1f1653deebfe26934d8ec7cb1c-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/screen-shot-2017-03-09-at-12.13.19-pm-50-c8efe3b163a97e1f1653deebfe26934d8ec7cb1c-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/screen-shot-2017-03-09-at-12.13.19-pm-50-c8efe3b163a97e1f1653deebfe26934d8ec7cb1c-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/screen-shot-2017-03-09-at-12.13.19-pm-50-c8efe3b163a97e1f1653deebfe26934d8ec7cb1c-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/screen-shot-2017-03-09-at-12.13.19-pm-50-c8efe3b163a97e1f1653deebfe26934d8ec7cb1c-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/screen-shot-2017-03-09-at-12.13.19-pm-50-c8efe3b163a97e1f1653deebfe26934d8ec7cb1c-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/screen-shot-2017-03-09-at-12.13.19-pm-50-c8efe3b163a97e1f1653deebfe26934d8ec7cb1c-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/screen-shot-2017-03-09-at-12.13.19-pm-50-c8efe3b163a97e1f1653deebfe26934d8ec7cb1c-520x390.jpg 520w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/screen-shot-2017-03-09-at-12.13.19-pm-50-c8efe3b163a97e1f1653deebfe26934d8ec7cb1c.jpg 1451w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Dalai Lama has a conversation with John Oliver — and fermented horse milk comes up.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The Dalai Lama says he made a difference. In an interview last Sunday with news comedian John Oliver, the Tibetan spiritual leader said, \"I suggested [to the Mongolians] drink much less vodka. Instead of that, drink horse milk.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You tried to wean them off vodka by giving them horse milk?\" Oliver replied, incredulously.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Oh yes. Then they follow,\" the Dalai Lama said. \"Since then I think majority of Mongolians no longer any drink.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Dalai Lama was actually encouraging people to drink more airag, a fermented brew made from mare's milk, Mendee says. It's a popular traditional beverage that has roots in Central Asian nomadic horse culture going back thousands of years and has an alcohol content similar to hard cider. The idea is that by consuming something less intoxicating than vodka, which is commonly drunk, people might be better off. Vodka often contains 30 or 40 percent alcohol whereas airag is around 5 to 10 percent alcohol by volume.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_115818\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/gettyimages-548822191-50_custom-a336395170e94cf6c219fae27854373d02d0936a.jpg\" alt=\"Milking a mare in Mongolia.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1349\" class=\"size-full wp-image-115818\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/gettyimages-548822191-50_custom-a336395170e94cf6c219fae27854373d02d0936a.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/gettyimages-548822191-50_custom-a336395170e94cf6c219fae27854373d02d0936a-160x108.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/gettyimages-548822191-50_custom-a336395170e94cf6c219fae27854373d02d0936a-800x540.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/gettyimages-548822191-50_custom-a336395170e94cf6c219fae27854373d02d0936a-768x518.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/gettyimages-548822191-50_custom-a336395170e94cf6c219fae27854373d02d0936a-1020x688.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/gettyimages-548822191-50_custom-a336395170e94cf6c219fae27854373d02d0936a-1180x796.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/gettyimages-548822191-50_custom-a336395170e94cf6c219fae27854373d02d0936a-960x648.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/gettyimages-548822191-50_custom-a336395170e94cf6c219fae27854373d02d0936a-240x162.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/gettyimages-548822191-50_custom-a336395170e94cf6c219fae27854373d02d0936a-375x253.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/gettyimages-548822191-50_custom-a336395170e94cf6c219fae27854373d02d0936a-520x351.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Milking a mare in Mongolia. \u003ccite>(H. Christoph/ullstein bild via Getty Images)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>It's not clear when the Dalai Lama first encouraged Mongolians to lay off hard spirits. Some sources suggest it was in 2011, while others believe it was during his fourth visit to the country in 1995.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He hasn't been the only person promoting this message. The current president, Tsakhiagiin Elbegdorj, began making a similar request of his countrymen in 2011, sometime after the Dalai Lama's fourth visit to Mongolia. Ever since then the president has been urging people to toast with milk — the non-alcoholic variety pulled from goats, cows or sheep– and asking officials not to serve alcohol at government events. The president's office did not respond to a request for comment.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Those were really good public health initiatives. When the Dalai Lama came up with that slogan for us, 'Drink less vodka. Drink more mare's milk,' that hit people a lot!\" says Dr. Tsogtbataar Byambaa, the director of the National Center for Public Health in Mongolia. \"A significant percentage of Mongolians are Buddhists. So many people here worship Dalai Lama.\" And Elbegdorj even received an \u003ca href=\"http://www.wpro.who.int/mongolia/mediacentre/rd_recognition/en/\">award from the World Health Organization in 2012\u003c/a> for his efforts to reduce alcoholism.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_115823\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1400px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/gettyimages-526987692-50_custom-dbafa55a694cf0a06e12a397020c65f8aff1759b-s1400-c85.jpg\" alt=\"American Supreme Court justice William O. Douglas drinks fermented horse milk with herders in a yurt during his visit to Mongolia in 1961.\" width=\"1400\" height=\"953\" class=\"size-full wp-image-115823\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/gettyimages-526987692-50_custom-dbafa55a694cf0a06e12a397020c65f8aff1759b-s1400-c85.jpg 1400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/gettyimages-526987692-50_custom-dbafa55a694cf0a06e12a397020c65f8aff1759b-s1400-c85-160x109.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/gettyimages-526987692-50_custom-dbafa55a694cf0a06e12a397020c65f8aff1759b-s1400-c85-800x545.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/gettyimages-526987692-50_custom-dbafa55a694cf0a06e12a397020c65f8aff1759b-s1400-c85-768x523.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/gettyimages-526987692-50_custom-dbafa55a694cf0a06e12a397020c65f8aff1759b-s1400-c85-1020x694.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/gettyimages-526987692-50_custom-dbafa55a694cf0a06e12a397020c65f8aff1759b-s1400-c85-1180x803.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/gettyimages-526987692-50_custom-dbafa55a694cf0a06e12a397020c65f8aff1759b-s1400-c85-960x653.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/gettyimages-526987692-50_custom-dbafa55a694cf0a06e12a397020c65f8aff1759b-s1400-c85-240x163.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/gettyimages-526987692-50_custom-dbafa55a694cf0a06e12a397020c65f8aff1759b-s1400-c85-375x255.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/gettyimages-526987692-50_custom-dbafa55a694cf0a06e12a397020c65f8aff1759b-s1400-c85-520x354.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1400px) 100vw, 1400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">American Supreme Court justice William O. Douglas drinks fermented horse milk with herders in a yurt during his visit to Mongolia in 1961. \u003ccite>(Dean Conger/Corbis via Getty Images)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As the Dalai Lama claimed on \u003cem>Last Week Tonight\u003c/em>, it does seem to be the case that most Mongolians don't drink regularly. Only about 36 percent of Mongolians have had an alcoholic drink in the last month based on a WHO survey from 2013, Byambaa says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was basically the same in 2009, though. Even before Elbegdorj asked people to consider taking it a little easy on the bottle, only \u003ca href=\"http://www.who.int/chp/steps/mongolia/en/\">38 percent of Mongolians\u003c/a> reported drinking in the past month. That's low compared to the U.S., where 56 percent of people drink on a monthly basis (and about 27 percent report binge drinking in the past month).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There is some indication that things changed in Mongolia between 2005 and 2009, however. The oldest WHO alcohol data on Mongolia is from a 2005 report, which put the percentage of drinkers at about 60 percent of the population. So the WHO data indicates that there really are fewer Mongolians who drink today than over a decade ago.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=112485545\">alcohol misuse\u003c/a> is still a significant \u003ca href=\"http://www.who.int/substance_abuse/publications/global_alcohol_report/profiles/mng.pdf\">public health hurdle\u003c/a> for the country, Byambaa says. \"There's a mean number of standard drinks consumed per drinking occasion, he says. \"That's 9 for us. Think about that number for a second.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The WHO surveys suggest that many Mongolians who do drink are binging on a staggering amount of booze, Byambaa says. That volume hasn't changed much since 2009 either. \"[The mean number of drinks per occasion] was 8.8 drinks in 2009. That one went up a little bit,\" Byambaa says. \"It's very alarming.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Did the Dalai Lama and Elbegdorj's call to \"drink milk, not vodka\" have any effect on Mongolian drinking habits? Byambaa demurs to the question. \"I can't quantify the effect of that,\" he says. \"Anecdotally? Well, I can't say anecdotally.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He added with a chuckle: \"Well, who am I to judge Dalai Lama?\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mendee is a little more forthright on the issue. \"I don't think that Dalai Lama and Elbegdorj changed it,\" he says. After the country's hard transition from communism to a market economy, Mongolia has enjoyed steady economic growth since the mid-1990s. Mendee thinks that economic improvement may have done more for alcohol misuse than public health campaigns from dignitaries. Beer and wine are getting more popular nowadays, Mendee adds.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As to whether or not people have begun drinking more fermented mare's milk since His Holiness endorsed it, Byambaa says that airag has always been popular. \"Yeah, I don't know. It looks like milk. It's sour,\" he says. \"I like it. It's my favorite.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Like so many countries from the former Soviet bloc, Mongolia faced a terrible economic upheaval at the end of the Soviet Union. In the first few years, inflation went up over 250 percent; employment went down.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And people started drinking much more heavily. \"Alcoholism was devastating during the economic hardships of the '90s,\" writes Jargalsaikhan Mendee, a political scientist and former Mongolian defense attaché to the United States, in an email to Goats and Soda.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_115817\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/screen-shot-2017-03-09-at-12.13.19-pm-50-c8efe3b163a97e1f1653deebfe26934d8ec7cb1c-1020x765.jpg\" alt=\"The Dalai Lama has a conversation with John Oliver — and fermented horse milk comes up.\" width=\"640\" height=\"480\" class=\"size-large wp-image-115817\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/screen-shot-2017-03-09-at-12.13.19-pm-50-c8efe3b163a97e1f1653deebfe26934d8ec7cb1c-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/screen-shot-2017-03-09-at-12.13.19-pm-50-c8efe3b163a97e1f1653deebfe26934d8ec7cb1c-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/screen-shot-2017-03-09-at-12.13.19-pm-50-c8efe3b163a97e1f1653deebfe26934d8ec7cb1c-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/screen-shot-2017-03-09-at-12.13.19-pm-50-c8efe3b163a97e1f1653deebfe26934d8ec7cb1c-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/screen-shot-2017-03-09-at-12.13.19-pm-50-c8efe3b163a97e1f1653deebfe26934d8ec7cb1c-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/screen-shot-2017-03-09-at-12.13.19-pm-50-c8efe3b163a97e1f1653deebfe26934d8ec7cb1c-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/screen-shot-2017-03-09-at-12.13.19-pm-50-c8efe3b163a97e1f1653deebfe26934d8ec7cb1c-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/screen-shot-2017-03-09-at-12.13.19-pm-50-c8efe3b163a97e1f1653deebfe26934d8ec7cb1c-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/screen-shot-2017-03-09-at-12.13.19-pm-50-c8efe3b163a97e1f1653deebfe26934d8ec7cb1c-520x390.jpg 520w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/screen-shot-2017-03-09-at-12.13.19-pm-50-c8efe3b163a97e1f1653deebfe26934d8ec7cb1c.jpg 1451w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Dalai Lama has a conversation with John Oliver — and fermented horse milk comes up.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The Dalai Lama says he made a difference. In an interview last Sunday with news comedian John Oliver, the Tibetan spiritual leader said, \"I suggested [to the Mongolians] drink much less vodka. Instead of that, drink horse milk.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You tried to wean them off vodka by giving them horse milk?\" Oliver replied, incredulously.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Oh yes. Then they follow,\" the Dalai Lama said. \"Since then I think majority of Mongolians no longer any drink.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Dalai Lama was actually encouraging people to drink more airag, a fermented brew made from mare's milk, Mendee says. It's a popular traditional beverage that has roots in Central Asian nomadic horse culture going back thousands of years and has an alcohol content similar to hard cider. The idea is that by consuming something less intoxicating than vodka, which is commonly drunk, people might be better off. Vodka often contains 30 or 40 percent alcohol whereas airag is around 5 to 10 percent alcohol by volume.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_115818\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/gettyimages-548822191-50_custom-a336395170e94cf6c219fae27854373d02d0936a.jpg\" alt=\"Milking a mare in Mongolia.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1349\" class=\"size-full wp-image-115818\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/gettyimages-548822191-50_custom-a336395170e94cf6c219fae27854373d02d0936a.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/gettyimages-548822191-50_custom-a336395170e94cf6c219fae27854373d02d0936a-160x108.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/gettyimages-548822191-50_custom-a336395170e94cf6c219fae27854373d02d0936a-800x540.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/gettyimages-548822191-50_custom-a336395170e94cf6c219fae27854373d02d0936a-768x518.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/gettyimages-548822191-50_custom-a336395170e94cf6c219fae27854373d02d0936a-1020x688.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/gettyimages-548822191-50_custom-a336395170e94cf6c219fae27854373d02d0936a-1180x796.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/gettyimages-548822191-50_custom-a336395170e94cf6c219fae27854373d02d0936a-960x648.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/gettyimages-548822191-50_custom-a336395170e94cf6c219fae27854373d02d0936a-240x162.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/gettyimages-548822191-50_custom-a336395170e94cf6c219fae27854373d02d0936a-375x253.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/gettyimages-548822191-50_custom-a336395170e94cf6c219fae27854373d02d0936a-520x351.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Milking a mare in Mongolia. \u003ccite>(H. Christoph/ullstein bild via Getty Images)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>It's not clear when the Dalai Lama first encouraged Mongolians to lay off hard spirits. Some sources suggest it was in 2011, while others believe it was during his fourth visit to the country in 1995.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He hasn't been the only person promoting this message. The current president, Tsakhiagiin Elbegdorj, began making a similar request of his countrymen in 2011, sometime after the Dalai Lama's fourth visit to Mongolia. Ever since then the president has been urging people to toast with milk — the non-alcoholic variety pulled from goats, cows or sheep– and asking officials not to serve alcohol at government events. The president's office did not respond to a request for comment.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Those were really good public health initiatives. When the Dalai Lama came up with that slogan for us, 'Drink less vodka. Drink more mare's milk,' that hit people a lot!\" says Dr. Tsogtbataar Byambaa, the director of the National Center for Public Health in Mongolia. \"A significant percentage of Mongolians are Buddhists. So many people here worship Dalai Lama.\" And Elbegdorj even received an \u003ca href=\"http://www.wpro.who.int/mongolia/mediacentre/rd_recognition/en/\">award from the World Health Organization in 2012\u003c/a> for his efforts to reduce alcoholism.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_115823\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1400px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/gettyimages-526987692-50_custom-dbafa55a694cf0a06e12a397020c65f8aff1759b-s1400-c85.jpg\" alt=\"American Supreme Court justice William O. Douglas drinks fermented horse milk with herders in a yurt during his visit to Mongolia in 1961.\" width=\"1400\" height=\"953\" class=\"size-full wp-image-115823\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/gettyimages-526987692-50_custom-dbafa55a694cf0a06e12a397020c65f8aff1759b-s1400-c85.jpg 1400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/gettyimages-526987692-50_custom-dbafa55a694cf0a06e12a397020c65f8aff1759b-s1400-c85-160x109.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/gettyimages-526987692-50_custom-dbafa55a694cf0a06e12a397020c65f8aff1759b-s1400-c85-800x545.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/gettyimages-526987692-50_custom-dbafa55a694cf0a06e12a397020c65f8aff1759b-s1400-c85-768x523.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/gettyimages-526987692-50_custom-dbafa55a694cf0a06e12a397020c65f8aff1759b-s1400-c85-1020x694.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/gettyimages-526987692-50_custom-dbafa55a694cf0a06e12a397020c65f8aff1759b-s1400-c85-1180x803.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/gettyimages-526987692-50_custom-dbafa55a694cf0a06e12a397020c65f8aff1759b-s1400-c85-960x653.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/gettyimages-526987692-50_custom-dbafa55a694cf0a06e12a397020c65f8aff1759b-s1400-c85-240x163.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/gettyimages-526987692-50_custom-dbafa55a694cf0a06e12a397020c65f8aff1759b-s1400-c85-375x255.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/gettyimages-526987692-50_custom-dbafa55a694cf0a06e12a397020c65f8aff1759b-s1400-c85-520x354.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1400px) 100vw, 1400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">American Supreme Court justice William O. Douglas drinks fermented horse milk with herders in a yurt during his visit to Mongolia in 1961. \u003ccite>(Dean Conger/Corbis via Getty Images)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As the Dalai Lama claimed on \u003cem>Last Week Tonight\u003c/em>, it does seem to be the case that most Mongolians don't drink regularly. Only about 36 percent of Mongolians have had an alcoholic drink in the last month based on a WHO survey from 2013, Byambaa says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was basically the same in 2009, though. Even before Elbegdorj asked people to consider taking it a little easy on the bottle, only \u003ca href=\"http://www.who.int/chp/steps/mongolia/en/\">38 percent of Mongolians\u003c/a> reported drinking in the past month. That's low compared to the U.S., where 56 percent of people drink on a monthly basis (and about 27 percent report binge drinking in the past month).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There is some indication that things changed in Mongolia between 2005 and 2009, however. The oldest WHO alcohol data on Mongolia is from a 2005 report, which put the percentage of drinkers at about 60 percent of the population. So the WHO data indicates that there really are fewer Mongolians who drink today than over a decade ago.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=112485545\">alcohol misuse\u003c/a> is still a significant \u003ca href=\"http://www.who.int/substance_abuse/publications/global_alcohol_report/profiles/mng.pdf\">public health hurdle\u003c/a> for the country, Byambaa says. \"There's a mean number of standard drinks consumed per drinking occasion, he says. \"That's 9 for us. Think about that number for a second.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The WHO surveys suggest that many Mongolians who do drink are binging on a staggering amount of booze, Byambaa says. That volume hasn't changed much since 2009 either. \"[The mean number of drinks per occasion] was 8.8 drinks in 2009. That one went up a little bit,\" Byambaa says. \"It's very alarming.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Did the Dalai Lama and Elbegdorj's call to \"drink milk, not vodka\" have any effect on Mongolian drinking habits? Byambaa demurs to the question. \"I can't quantify the effect of that,\" he says. \"Anecdotally? Well, I can't say anecdotally.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He added with a chuckle: \"Well, who am I to judge Dalai Lama?\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mendee is a little more forthright on the issue. \"I don't think that Dalai Lama and Elbegdorj changed it,\" he says. After the country's hard transition from communism to a market economy, Mongolia has enjoyed steady economic growth since the mid-1990s. Mendee thinks that economic improvement may have done more for alcohol misuse than public health campaigns from dignitaries. Beer and wine are getting more popular nowadays, Mendee adds.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As to whether or not people have begun drinking more fermented mare's milk since His Holiness endorsed it, Byambaa says that airag has always been popular. \"Yeah, I don't know. It looks like milk. It's sour,\" he says. \"I like it. It's my favorite.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Celebrate Black History Month at These Black-Owned Bay Area Restaurants",
"title": "Celebrate Black History Month at These Black-Owned Bay Area Restaurants",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Black_History_Month\" target=\"_blank\">Black History Month\u003c/a> can provide an opportunity to learn about and explore the various cuisines locally available at black-owned restaurants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Below we showcase a few of our favorites as well as a longer list that includes restaurants plus other food and drink establishments in San Francisco, Oakland, the South Bay and on the Peninsula. You can also watch video reviews of some of the spots featured on KQED's \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/checkplease/\">Check, Please! Bay Area\u003c/a>. This list does not include \u003cem>every\u003c/em> black-owned restaurant or bar in the whole Bay Area, so please feel free to add any favorites we may have missed in the comments.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Pican\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>An Oakland favorite, Pican serves Southern cuisine and over 100 bourbons. Owner Michael LeBlanc has long brought the cuisine of his native New Orleans to mix with local ingredients and a California touch. Expect fried green tomatoes, grits, beignets, and fried chicken. But it isn't just about the food here. There's also an extensive and ornate bar/lounge, which is open longer than the restaurant's brunch, lunch, or dinner hours. And LeBlanc has announced a soon-to-open sister restaurant in Pleasanton.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The restaurant will also be offering \u003ca href=\"http://picanrestaurant.com/event/bold-flavors-black-history-month/\">special Black History Month menus\u003c/a> that change each week of the month, following \"the progression of black heritage from Africa, through the South and up to the northern United States,\" wrote Chef Jerome “Spike” Williams.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Watch the Check, Please! Bay Area review of Pican:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DrclRwKWMFM\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://picanrestaurant.com/\">\u003cstrong>Pican Restaurant\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> [\u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2017/6/7/15759928/oakland-pican-to-close\">CLOSED 6/17\u003c/a>]\u003cbr>\n2295 Broadway [\u003ca href=\"http://goo.gl/3u5ZE0\">map\u003c/a>]\u003cbr>\nOakland, CA 94612\u003cbr>\nPh: (510) 834-1000\u003cbr>\nHours: Mon-Thu, 11:30am-2pm, 5-9pm; Fri, 11:30am-2pm, 5-10:30pm; Sat, 10:30am-2pm, 5-10:30pm; Sun, 10:30am-2:30pm, 5-9pm (lounge open longer hours)\u003cbr>\nFacebook:\u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/Pic%C3%A1n-Restaurant-123245513784/?ref=hl\"> Pican Restaurant\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/PicanRestaurant\">@PicanRestaurant\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nInstagram: \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/pican_restaurant/\">@pican_restaurant\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nPrice range: $$$ (dinner, $35-60)\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Brown Sugar Kitchen\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Chef and owner Tanya Holland has made Brown Sugar Kitchen the place to be for brunch and lunch in West Oakland. Trained in formal French cooking at La Varenne Ecole de Cuisine, Holland has found innovative ways to serve up soul food, with a very specific Oakland take on the flavors. And she's won a \u003cem>lot\u003c/em> of awards doing it. (Holland also headed up B-Side BBQ, which became B-Side Baking Company, which closed its doors in late 2015.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You'll want to try the cornmeal caramelized waffles and buttermilk fried chicken, which are the restaurant's signature items. For lunch, it's all about the jerk chicken, mashed yams, and pineapple-onion salsa. Brown Sugar Kitchen may be in a more industrial area than many of the trendiest Oakland restaurants, but that hasn't deterred the crowds (and Holland has worked with the local community to build a much-loved home for her cuisine). Expect a line, especially for brunch, and you can't make reservations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tanya Holland is also KQED Food's first chef to be featured in the series \u003cstrong>Celebrity Chefs\u003c/strong>. \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/series/celebrity-chefs-recipes/\">\u003cstrong>Check out her recipes!\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/forum/2014/12/16/brown-sugar-kitchens-tanya-hollands-down-home-recipes-from-west-oakland/\">Tanya Holland on KQED's Forum\u003c/a>, talking about her cookbook.\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Watch the Check, Please! Bay Area episode featuring Brown Sugar Kitchen\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nhttps://youtu.be/BOUE6BeOsjQ\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://www.brownsugarkitchen.com/\">Brown Sugar Kitchen\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003c/strong>2435 Mandela Parkway [\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/fWhsWo\">map\u003c/a>]\u003cbr>\nOakland, California 94607\u003cbr>\nPh: (510) 839-7685\u003cbr>\nHours: Tue-Sat, 7am-3pm; Sun, 8am-3pm\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/brownsugarkitchen/\">Brown Sugar Kitchen\u003cbr>\n\u003c/a>Twitter: \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/brownsugarkitch\">@brownsugarkitch\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nInstagram: \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/mstanyaholland/\">@mstanyaholland\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nPrice range: $$ (lunch $10-15)\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>1300 on Fillmore\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Nine years ago, 1300 on Fillmore opened in the Fillmore Heritage Center with a plan to help revitalize the neighborhood. While a few other things in that building closed, like Yoshi's, 1300 on Fillmore has thrived. It's a jazzy, swinging club, with live music most Friday and weekend nights and an expansive bar.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Executive chef and co-owner David Lawrence serves Southern cuisine with local California ingredients. This turns into one-of-a-kind creations like fresh water shrimp hush puppies, barbecue shrimp n' grits, and the signature 1300 Black Skillet Fried Chicken, with a crust of garlic powder and fresh herbs -- all of which he tends to call \"supper\" at his buzzing supper club. Leave room for beignets and chocolate banana pie with peanut butter ice cream. In 2015, Lawrence also opened \u003ca href=\"http://blackbarkbbq.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Black Bark BBQ\u003c/a> serving “San Francisco style” barbecue directly across the street from 1300 on Fillmore.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To celebrate Black History Month check out \u003ca href=\"http://onemarket.com/happenings/\">Soul to Souls pop-up dinner on Feb. 22\u003c/a> from 1300 on Fillmore chef David Lawrence and One Market chef Mark Dommen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Watch the Check, Please! Bay Area review of 1300 on Fillmore:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gRgtpPcvnS0\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://www.1300fillmore.com/\">1300 on Fillmore\u003c/a>\u003c/strong> [CLOSED 10/17, \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfchronicle.com/insidescoop/article/1300-on-Fillmore-shuts-down-12291448.php\">might reopen in 2018\u003c/a>]\u003cbr>\n1300 Fillmore Street [\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/xm3fDQ\">map\u003c/a>]\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94115\u003cbr>\nPh: (\u003cspan id=\"yui_3_17_2_1_1486594083469_9505\">415) 771-7100\u003c/span>\u003cbr>\nHours: Tue-Thu, 5:30-10pm; Fri, Sat, 5:30-11pm; Sun, 11am-3pm, 5:30-9pm\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/1300fillmore\">1300 Fillmore\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/brownsugarkitchen/\">\u003cbr>\n\u003c/a>Twitter: \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/1300onFillmore\">@1300onFillmore\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nInstagram: \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/1300onfillmore/\">@1300onFillmore\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nPrice range: $$ (dinner $20-30)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>San Francisco\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003cspan class=\"s2\">\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/miyako-old-fashioned-ice-cream-san-francisco\">Miyako Old-Fashioned Ice Cream\u003c/a> (Fillmore)\u003c/span>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://auntieaprilsf.com/users/awp.php?ln=726512\">Auntie April’s\u003c/a> (Bayview) \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9obIsLo2Sj0\">\u003cstrong>Watch Check, Please! Bay Area review\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.bissapbaobab.com/\">Bissap Baobab\u003c/a> (The Mission & Oakland)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.shebapianolounge.com/\">Sheba Piano Lounge\u003c/a> (Fillmore)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.farmerbrownsf.com/\">farmerbrown\u003c/a> (Tenderloin) \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VeQVXbivF2Q\">\u003cstrong>Watch Check, Please! Bay Area review\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.littleskilletsf.com/\">Little Skillet\u003c/a> (China Basin)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://queenslapoboys.com/\">Queen’s Louisiana Po-Boy Cafe\u003c/a> (Bayview)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.radioafricakitchen.com/\">Radio Africa Kitchen\u003c/a> (Bayview) - Check out their \u003ca href=\"http://www.radioafricakitchen.com/events/\">Community Tuesdays events\u003c/a> this month\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://samjordanbar.com/\">Sam Jordan’s Bar\u003c/a> (Bayview)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://letseatbbq.org/\">Let’s Eat BBQ & More\u003c/a> (Bayview)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://friscofried.biz/\">Frisco Fried\u003c/a> (Bayview)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.yvonnessouthernsweets.com/\">Yvonne’s Southern Sweets\u003c/a> (Bayview)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.sweetinspirationbakery.com/\">Sweet Inspiration Bakery and Cafe\u003c/a> (Duboce Triangle)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amawelessouthafricankitchen.com/\">Amawele’s South African Kitchen\u003c/a> (Embarcadero)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/club-waziema-san-francisco\">Club Waziema\u003c/a> (Panhandle)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.twojacksniksplace.com/\">Two Jacks Nik's Place\u003c/a> (Hayes Valley)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://blackbarkbbq.com/\">Black Bark BBQ\u003c/a> (Fillmore)\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>South Bay/Peninsula\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.savannajazz.com/\">Savanna Jazz Club\u003c/a> (San Carlos)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.lilliemaeshouse.com/\">Lillie Mae’s House of Soul Food\u003c/a> (Santa Clara) \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0dNPpGAnQWk\">\u003cstrong>Watch Check, Please! Bay Area review\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/jubba-restaurant-san-jose?osq=black+owned+restaurant\">Jubba Somali Restaurant\u003c/a> (San Jose)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.backayard.net/\">Back a Yard Caribbean Grill\u003c/a> (Menlo Park & San Jose) \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KStDpjwoBrM\">\u003cstrong>Watch Check, Please! Bay Area review\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://waliaethiopian.com/\">Walia Ethiopian Cuisine\u003c/a> (San Jose)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://zeniethiopianrestaurant.com/\">Zeni Ethiopian Restaurant\u003c/a> (San Jose) \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kIt9-sOvTTE\">\u003cstrong>Watch Check, Please! Bay Area review\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>East Bay\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.lenassoulfoodcafe.com/\">Lena’s Soul Food Cafe\u003c/a> (Oakland)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://kingston11eats.com/Home\">Kingston 11 Cuisine\u003c/a> (Oakland) \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qreZIi4UUeo\">\u003cstrong>Watch Check, Please! Bay Area review\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.nelliessoulfood.com/index.html\">Nellie’s Soul Food\u003c/a>(Oakland)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://southerncafe2000.com/\">Southern Cafe\u003c/a> (Oakland and Antioch)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/lois-the-pie-queen-oakland\">Lois the Pie Queen\u003c/a> (Oakland)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://homeofchickenandwaffles.com/\">Home of Chicken and Waffles\u003c/a> (Oakland, Walnut Creek, and Daly City)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.souleyvegan.com/\">Souley Vegan\u003c/a> (Oakland)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/gennys-bbq-oakland-2\">Genny’s BBQ\u003c/a> (Oakland)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.realmissolliesoakland.com/\">Miss Ollie’s\u003c/a> (Oakland)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/elves-bbq-and-soul-food-oakland\">Elve’s BBQ & Soul Food\u003c/a> (Oakland)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://eandjbbq.com/\">Everett & Jones Barbeque\u003c/a> (Oakland)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/aqua-fresh-seafoods-oakland\">Aqua Fresh Seafoods\u003c/a> (Oakland)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/red-sea-restaurant-oakland\">Red Sea Restaurant & Bar\u003c/a> (Oakland)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/uncle-willies-bbq-and-fish-oakland\">Uncle Willie’s Original BBQ & Fish\u003c/a> (Oakland)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://pietisserie.com/\">PieTisserie\u003c/a> (Oakland)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://nkcoakland.com/\">New Karibbean City\u003c/a> (Oakland)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://geoffreyslive.com/\">Goeffrey's Inner Circle\u003c/a> (Oakland)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.addisethiopian.com/\">Addis Ethiopian Restaurant\u003c/a> (Oakland) \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KV0LBRYkwmc\">\u003cstrong>Watch Check, Please! Bay Area review\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.enssaro.com/\">Ensarro Ethiopian\u003c/a> (Oakland)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.milikispot.com/\">Miliki\u003c/a> (Oakland)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://suyaafricangrill.com/\">Suya African Grill\u003c/a> (Oakland)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://enathoneywine.com/\">ENAT Honey Winery\u003c/a> (Oakland)\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Black History Month can provide an opportunity to learn about and explore the various cuisines locally available at black-owned restaurants.\r\n",
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"description": "Black History Month can provide an opportunity to learn about and explore the various cuisines locally available at black-owned restaurants.\r\n",
"title": "Celebrate Black History Month at These Black-Owned Bay Area Restaurants | KQED",
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"headline": "Celebrate Black History Month at These Black-Owned Bay Area Restaurants",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Black_History_Month\" target=\"_blank\">Black History Month\u003c/a> can provide an opportunity to learn about and explore the various cuisines locally available at black-owned restaurants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Below we showcase a few of our favorites as well as a longer list that includes restaurants plus other food and drink establishments in San Francisco, Oakland, the South Bay and on the Peninsula. You can also watch video reviews of some of the spots featured on KQED's \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/checkplease/\">Check, Please! Bay Area\u003c/a>. This list does not include \u003cem>every\u003c/em> black-owned restaurant or bar in the whole Bay Area, so please feel free to add any favorites we may have missed in the comments.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Pican\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>An Oakland favorite, Pican serves Southern cuisine and over 100 bourbons. Owner Michael LeBlanc has long brought the cuisine of his native New Orleans to mix with local ingredients and a California touch. Expect fried green tomatoes, grits, beignets, and fried chicken. But it isn't just about the food here. There's also an extensive and ornate bar/lounge, which is open longer than the restaurant's brunch, lunch, or dinner hours. And LeBlanc has announced a soon-to-open sister restaurant in Pleasanton.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The restaurant will also be offering \u003ca href=\"http://picanrestaurant.com/event/bold-flavors-black-history-month/\">special Black History Month menus\u003c/a> that change each week of the month, following \"the progression of black heritage from Africa, through the South and up to the northern United States,\" wrote Chef Jerome “Spike” Williams.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Watch the Check, Please! Bay Area review of Pican:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/DrclRwKWMFM'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/DrclRwKWMFM'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://picanrestaurant.com/\">\u003cstrong>Pican Restaurant\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> [\u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2017/6/7/15759928/oakland-pican-to-close\">CLOSED 6/17\u003c/a>]\u003cbr>\n2295 Broadway [\u003ca href=\"http://goo.gl/3u5ZE0\">map\u003c/a>]\u003cbr>\nOakland, CA 94612\u003cbr>\nPh: (510) 834-1000\u003cbr>\nHours: Mon-Thu, 11:30am-2pm, 5-9pm; Fri, 11:30am-2pm, 5-10:30pm; Sat, 10:30am-2pm, 5-10:30pm; Sun, 10:30am-2:30pm, 5-9pm (lounge open longer hours)\u003cbr>\nFacebook:\u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/Pic%C3%A1n-Restaurant-123245513784/?ref=hl\"> Pican Restaurant\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/PicanRestaurant\">@PicanRestaurant\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nInstagram: \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/pican_restaurant/\">@pican_restaurant\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nPrice range: $$$ (dinner, $35-60)\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Brown Sugar Kitchen\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Chef and owner Tanya Holland has made Brown Sugar Kitchen the place to be for brunch and lunch in West Oakland. Trained in formal French cooking at La Varenne Ecole de Cuisine, Holland has found innovative ways to serve up soul food, with a very specific Oakland take on the flavors. And she's won a \u003cem>lot\u003c/em> of awards doing it. (Holland also headed up B-Side BBQ, which became B-Side Baking Company, which closed its doors in late 2015.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You'll want to try the cornmeal caramelized waffles and buttermilk fried chicken, which are the restaurant's signature items. For lunch, it's all about the jerk chicken, mashed yams, and pineapple-onion salsa. Brown Sugar Kitchen may be in a more industrial area than many of the trendiest Oakland restaurants, but that hasn't deterred the crowds (and Holland has worked with the local community to build a much-loved home for her cuisine). Expect a line, especially for brunch, and you can't make reservations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tanya Holland is also KQED Food's first chef to be featured in the series \u003cstrong>Celebrity Chefs\u003c/strong>. \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/series/celebrity-chefs-recipes/\">\u003cstrong>Check out her recipes!\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/forum/2014/12/16/brown-sugar-kitchens-tanya-hollands-down-home-recipes-from-west-oakland/\">Tanya Holland on KQED's Forum\u003c/a>, talking about her cookbook.\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Watch the Check, Please! Bay Area episode featuring Brown Sugar Kitchen\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/BOUE6BeOsjQ'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/BOUE6BeOsjQ'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://www.brownsugarkitchen.com/\">Brown Sugar Kitchen\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003c/strong>2435 Mandela Parkway [\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/fWhsWo\">map\u003c/a>]\u003cbr>\nOakland, California 94607\u003cbr>\nPh: (510) 839-7685\u003cbr>\nHours: Tue-Sat, 7am-3pm; Sun, 8am-3pm\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/brownsugarkitchen/\">Brown Sugar Kitchen\u003cbr>\n\u003c/a>Twitter: \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/brownsugarkitch\">@brownsugarkitch\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nInstagram: \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/mstanyaholland/\">@mstanyaholland\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nPrice range: $$ (lunch $10-15)\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>1300 on Fillmore\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Nine years ago, 1300 on Fillmore opened in the Fillmore Heritage Center with a plan to help revitalize the neighborhood. While a few other things in that building closed, like Yoshi's, 1300 on Fillmore has thrived. It's a jazzy, swinging club, with live music most Friday and weekend nights and an expansive bar.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Executive chef and co-owner David Lawrence serves Southern cuisine with local California ingredients. This turns into one-of-a-kind creations like fresh water shrimp hush puppies, barbecue shrimp n' grits, and the signature 1300 Black Skillet Fried Chicken, with a crust of garlic powder and fresh herbs -- all of which he tends to call \"supper\" at his buzzing supper club. Leave room for beignets and chocolate banana pie with peanut butter ice cream. In 2015, Lawrence also opened \u003ca href=\"http://blackbarkbbq.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Black Bark BBQ\u003c/a> serving “San Francisco style” barbecue directly across the street from 1300 on Fillmore.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To celebrate Black History Month check out \u003ca href=\"http://onemarket.com/happenings/\">Soul to Souls pop-up dinner on Feb. 22\u003c/a> from 1300 on Fillmore chef David Lawrence and One Market chef Mark Dommen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Watch the Check, Please! Bay Area review of 1300 on Fillmore:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/gRgtpPcvnS0'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/gRgtpPcvnS0'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://www.1300fillmore.com/\">1300 on Fillmore\u003c/a>\u003c/strong> [CLOSED 10/17, \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfchronicle.com/insidescoop/article/1300-on-Fillmore-shuts-down-12291448.php\">might reopen in 2018\u003c/a>]\u003cbr>\n1300 Fillmore Street [\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/xm3fDQ\">map\u003c/a>]\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94115\u003cbr>\nPh: (\u003cspan id=\"yui_3_17_2_1_1486594083469_9505\">415) 771-7100\u003c/span>\u003cbr>\nHours: Tue-Thu, 5:30-10pm; Fri, Sat, 5:30-11pm; Sun, 11am-3pm, 5:30-9pm\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/1300fillmore\">1300 Fillmore\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/brownsugarkitchen/\">\u003cbr>\n\u003c/a>Twitter: \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/1300onFillmore\">@1300onFillmore\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nInstagram: \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/1300onfillmore/\">@1300onFillmore\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nPrice range: $$ (dinner $20-30)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>San Francisco\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003cspan class=\"s2\">\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/miyako-old-fashioned-ice-cream-san-francisco\">Miyako Old-Fashioned Ice Cream\u003c/a> (Fillmore)\u003c/span>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://auntieaprilsf.com/users/awp.php?ln=726512\">Auntie April’s\u003c/a> (Bayview) \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9obIsLo2Sj0\">\u003cstrong>Watch Check, Please! Bay Area review\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.bissapbaobab.com/\">Bissap Baobab\u003c/a> (The Mission & Oakland)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.shebapianolounge.com/\">Sheba Piano Lounge\u003c/a> (Fillmore)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.farmerbrownsf.com/\">farmerbrown\u003c/a> (Tenderloin) \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VeQVXbivF2Q\">\u003cstrong>Watch Check, Please! Bay Area review\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.littleskilletsf.com/\">Little Skillet\u003c/a> (China Basin)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://queenslapoboys.com/\">Queen’s Louisiana Po-Boy Cafe\u003c/a> (Bayview)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.radioafricakitchen.com/\">Radio Africa Kitchen\u003c/a> (Bayview) - Check out their \u003ca href=\"http://www.radioafricakitchen.com/events/\">Community Tuesdays events\u003c/a> this month\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://samjordanbar.com/\">Sam Jordan’s Bar\u003c/a> (Bayview)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://letseatbbq.org/\">Let’s Eat BBQ & More\u003c/a> (Bayview)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://friscofried.biz/\">Frisco Fried\u003c/a> (Bayview)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.yvonnessouthernsweets.com/\">Yvonne’s Southern Sweets\u003c/a> (Bayview)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.sweetinspirationbakery.com/\">Sweet Inspiration Bakery and Cafe\u003c/a> (Duboce Triangle)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amawelessouthafricankitchen.com/\">Amawele’s South African Kitchen\u003c/a> (Embarcadero)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/club-waziema-san-francisco\">Club Waziema\u003c/a> (Panhandle)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.twojacksniksplace.com/\">Two Jacks Nik's Place\u003c/a> (Hayes Valley)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://blackbarkbbq.com/\">Black Bark BBQ\u003c/a> (Fillmore)\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>South Bay/Peninsula\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.savannajazz.com/\">Savanna Jazz Club\u003c/a> (San Carlos)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.lilliemaeshouse.com/\">Lillie Mae’s House of Soul Food\u003c/a> (Santa Clara) \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0dNPpGAnQWk\">\u003cstrong>Watch Check, Please! Bay Area review\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/jubba-restaurant-san-jose?osq=black+owned+restaurant\">Jubba Somali Restaurant\u003c/a> (San Jose)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.backayard.net/\">Back a Yard Caribbean Grill\u003c/a> (Menlo Park & San Jose) \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KStDpjwoBrM\">\u003cstrong>Watch Check, Please! Bay Area review\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://waliaethiopian.com/\">Walia Ethiopian Cuisine\u003c/a> (San Jose)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://zeniethiopianrestaurant.com/\">Zeni Ethiopian Restaurant\u003c/a> (San Jose) \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kIt9-sOvTTE\">\u003cstrong>Watch Check, Please! Bay Area review\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>East Bay\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.lenassoulfoodcafe.com/\">Lena’s Soul Food Cafe\u003c/a> (Oakland)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://kingston11eats.com/Home\">Kingston 11 Cuisine\u003c/a> (Oakland) \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qreZIi4UUeo\">\u003cstrong>Watch Check, Please! Bay Area review\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.nelliessoulfood.com/index.html\">Nellie’s Soul Food\u003c/a>(Oakland)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://southerncafe2000.com/\">Southern Cafe\u003c/a> (Oakland and Antioch)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/lois-the-pie-queen-oakland\">Lois the Pie Queen\u003c/a> (Oakland)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://homeofchickenandwaffles.com/\">Home of Chicken and Waffles\u003c/a> (Oakland, Walnut Creek, and Daly City)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.souleyvegan.com/\">Souley Vegan\u003c/a> (Oakland)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/gennys-bbq-oakland-2\">Genny’s BBQ\u003c/a> (Oakland)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.realmissolliesoakland.com/\">Miss Ollie’s\u003c/a> (Oakland)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/elves-bbq-and-soul-food-oakland\">Elve’s BBQ & Soul Food\u003c/a> (Oakland)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://eandjbbq.com/\">Everett & Jones Barbeque\u003c/a> (Oakland)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/aqua-fresh-seafoods-oakland\">Aqua Fresh Seafoods\u003c/a> (Oakland)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/red-sea-restaurant-oakland\">Red Sea Restaurant & Bar\u003c/a> (Oakland)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/uncle-willies-bbq-and-fish-oakland\">Uncle Willie’s Original BBQ & Fish\u003c/a> (Oakland)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://pietisserie.com/\">PieTisserie\u003c/a> (Oakland)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://nkcoakland.com/\">New Karibbean City\u003c/a> (Oakland)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://geoffreyslive.com/\">Goeffrey's Inner Circle\u003c/a> (Oakland)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.addisethiopian.com/\">Addis Ethiopian Restaurant\u003c/a> (Oakland) \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KV0LBRYkwmc\">\u003cstrong>Watch Check, Please! Bay Area review\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.enssaro.com/\">Ensarro Ethiopian\u003c/a> (Oakland)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.milikispot.com/\">Miliki\u003c/a> (Oakland)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://suyaafricangrill.com/\">Suya African Grill\u003c/a> (Oakland)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://enathoneywine.com/\">ENAT Honey Winery\u003c/a> (Oakland)\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Meet Freda DeKnight, A 'Hidden Figure' And Titan Of African-American Food",
"title": "Meet Freda DeKnight, A 'Hidden Figure' And Titan Of African-American Food",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\u003cem>\"It is not an accident that there is a blackout on the Black man's contributions in America.\"\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\nDr. Melvin Chapman (1928-2015), educator, Detroit, Mich.\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Inside the dark theater, during a recent showing of \u003cem>Hidden Figures, \u003c/em>the pioneering food journalist and cookbook writer Freda DeKnight came to mind several times\u003cem>. \u003c/em>The Oscar-nominated film highlights the lives of three African-American women whose brilliant mathematical contributions to NASA and the Apollo program were left out of most magazines, news reports and books that covered the U.S. space program.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As a Baby Boomer, born the decade following their amazing accomplishments, I felt betrayed by national media when I first discovered that their brilliance had been concealed from me during a time when I needed it most. I grew up during a decade my parents described as the \"tough, but necessary path of integration\" in the midst of the Civil Rights movement, the Vietnam War, and the assassinations of John F. Kennedy and Martin Luther King Jr.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Later, when my friend referred to the purposeful leaving out of African-American accomplishments as a \"separate and unequal\" approach to American history, she mentioned a plan. \"Our job isn't done until we pull every 'hidden figure' out of the American history closet,\" she said, adding that we should each dig deeper into our field of expertise. Which is why, as an African-American food journalist, I am concerned about culinary \"hidden figures.\" So I'll begin with this question: What do you know about Freda DeKnight?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Born in 1909, DeKnight spent much of her 54 years collecting, protecting and celebrating African-American culture and traditions in the years after World War II up to the civil rights movement. Yet her name has been all but forgotten – she doesn't even have that most basic of 21st century acknowledgements, a Wikipedia page.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As the first food editor for \u003cem>Ebony\u003c/em> magazine, DeKnight wrote a photo-driven monthly column that offered her home economist's tips, as well as regional recipes from the \"Negro community\" of home cooks, professional chefs, caterers, restaurateurs and celebrities.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_115403\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2994px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-115403\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/file-feb-10-3-38-41-pm_custom-9b437a2a7e447c58b97f5838d5c8dea7205251e1.jpe\" alt=\"Freda DeKnight's Banana Orange Caramel Cake, from her 1948 cookbook Date With A Dish. Banana-based dishes have a long history in the South. Ships ferrying the fruit from the Caribbean to be distributed across America would drop off ripe ones at Gulf Coast ports like Mobile, Ala.\" width=\"2994\" height=\"1998\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/file-feb-10-3-38-41-pm_custom-9b437a2a7e447c58b97f5838d5c8dea7205251e1.jpe 2994w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/file-feb-10-3-38-41-pm_custom-9b437a2a7e447c58b97f5838d5c8dea7205251e1-160x107.jpe 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/file-feb-10-3-38-41-pm_custom-9b437a2a7e447c58b97f5838d5c8dea7205251e1-800x534.jpe 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/file-feb-10-3-38-41-pm_custom-9b437a2a7e447c58b97f5838d5c8dea7205251e1-768x513.jpe 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/file-feb-10-3-38-41-pm_custom-9b437a2a7e447c58b97f5838d5c8dea7205251e1-1020x681.jpe 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/file-feb-10-3-38-41-pm_custom-9b437a2a7e447c58b97f5838d5c8dea7205251e1-1180x787.jpe 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/file-feb-10-3-38-41-pm_custom-9b437a2a7e447c58b97f5838d5c8dea7205251e1-960x641.jpe 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/file-feb-10-3-38-41-pm_custom-9b437a2a7e447c58b97f5838d5c8dea7205251e1-240x160.jpe 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/file-feb-10-3-38-41-pm_custom-9b437a2a7e447c58b97f5838d5c8dea7205251e1-375x250.jpe 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/file-feb-10-3-38-41-pm_custom-9b437a2a7e447c58b97f5838d5c8dea7205251e1-520x347.jpe 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2994px) 100vw, 2994px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Freda DeKnight's Banana Orange Caramel Cake, from her 1948 cookbook Date With A Dish. Banana-based dishes have a long history in the South. Ships ferrying the fruit from the Caribbean to be distributed across America would drop off ripe ones at Gulf Coast ports like Mobile, Ala. \u003ccite>(Donna Battle Pierce for NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The column in \u003cem>Ebony'\u003c/em>s 1947 February issue, for instance, featured the singer and actress Lena Horne wearing a prim, Swiss-dotted, ruffled apron and preparing what DeKnight described as \"an exotic Oriental dish ... East Indian chicken.\" The dish was actually a taste of the broader African diaspora: It was from Trinidad, whose melting pot cuisine reflects a population that includes both descendants of African slaves and of Indians brought over as indentured servants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Instead of the traditional recipe format, directions appeared as photo captions. \"Lena adds a dash more curry to suit her taste,\" read one caption, for a photo showing Horne taking a test sip from a spoon above a large pot. (It also included a plug for her film \u003cem>Till the Clouds Roll By\u003c/em>.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This was one of the many ways in which DeKnight presented a more nuanced and often glamorous image of African-American cooking and culture — not just to African-American readers, but to the broader world.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Freda DeKnight was one of the first who brought international attention to African-American food. ... She was a trailblazer,\" says Jessica Harris – herself a respected trailblazer: an educator, culinary historian and author of a dozen books about African-American culture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Ebony\u003c/em> was read not just in the United States but also in Europe, Africa and the Caribbean — \"especially as the Civil Rights movement burgeoned and grew with international repute,\" says Harris.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_115404\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1150px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-115404\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/twobooksyellowblue_wide-9f47d671be6123d9c1bdd2389d109ecc4b1364b3.jpg\" alt=\"Covers from two editions of Freda DeKnight's cookbook. The first edition was called A Date With A Dish. Later updates were rebranded as The Ebony Cookbook.\" width=\"1150\" height=\"647\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/twobooksyellowblue_wide-9f47d671be6123d9c1bdd2389d109ecc4b1364b3.jpg 1150w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/twobooksyellowblue_wide-9f47d671be6123d9c1bdd2389d109ecc4b1364b3-160x90.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/twobooksyellowblue_wide-9f47d671be6123d9c1bdd2389d109ecc4b1364b3-800x450.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/twobooksyellowblue_wide-9f47d671be6123d9c1bdd2389d109ecc4b1364b3-768x432.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/twobooksyellowblue_wide-9f47d671be6123d9c1bdd2389d109ecc4b1364b3-1020x574.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/twobooksyellowblue_wide-9f47d671be6123d9c1bdd2389d109ecc4b1364b3-960x540.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/twobooksyellowblue_wide-9f47d671be6123d9c1bdd2389d109ecc4b1364b3-240x135.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/twobooksyellowblue_wide-9f47d671be6123d9c1bdd2389d109ecc4b1364b3-375x211.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/twobooksyellowblue_wide-9f47d671be6123d9c1bdd2389d109ecc4b1364b3-520x293.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1150px) 100vw, 1150px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Covers from two editions of Freda DeKnight's cookbook. The first edition was called A Date With A Dish. Later updates were rebranded as The Ebony Cookbook. \u003ccite>(Donna Battle Pierce for NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>DeKnight's \"work with \u003cem>Ebony\u003c/em> brought our dishes to a larger world, and their dishes to us,\" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 1948, DeKnight published her only cookbook,\u003cem> A Date With A Dish: A Cookbook of American Negro Recipes. \u003c/em>It is considered the first major cookbook written by an African-American for an African-American audience. It showcased a wide variety of recipes from \"Negro households,\" from Tamale Pie — which DeKnight described as \"fitting in these days when California and Mexico are in the spotlight\" – to filet mignon; from Shortnin' Bread to Key Lime Pie.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By documenting the breadth and depth of African-American culinary know-how, DeKnight challenged the stereotypes of what black cooking could be. Published seven years before Rosa Parks refused to give up her seat on a Montgomery, Ala., bus, and 16 years before the Civil Rights Act of 1964, \u003cem>A Date With A Dish\u003c/em> was a powerful affirmation of black culture. As DeKnight wrote in the preface:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\u003cem>\"It is a fallacy, long disproved, that Negro cooks, chefs, caterers and homemakers can adapt the\u003c/em>\u003cem>m\u003c/em>\u003cem>selves only to the standard Southern dishes, such as fried chicken, greens, corn pone and hot breads. Like other Americans living in various sections of the country they have naturally shown a desire to become versatile in the preparation of any dish, whether it is Spanish, Italian, French, Bal\u003c/em>\u003cem>i\u003c/em>\u003cem>nese or East Indian in origin.\"\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>The book became a national best-seller.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I grew up in the 1950s and '60s in a family of black physicians and educators. DeKnight knew both of my grandmothers socially. And both my Granny and Gran used to say that, compared to other black cookbooks, which they described as a folksy approach for white households employing black cooks, \u003cem>A Date With a Dish\u003c/em> was the first to \"represent the race with dignity ... deliciously.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>DeKnight's culinary ambitions were rooted in her upbringing. She was born in Kansas, a generation after a great wave of African-Americans known as the Exodusters left the South post-Civil War and migrated into Kansas. Her father, a Topeka, Kansas-based Pullman steward, died when she was 2. Her mother, a traveling nurse, moved DeKnight and her sister to Mitchell, S.D., to live with family. DeKnight grew up in the farm home of Paul and Mamie Scott, a couple who ran a successful catering company in town. DeKnight later credited the Scotts with setting her down her future career path.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_115414\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-115414\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_4711_1-copy_custom-d99f51b6cc70c12e9bc354e723a7f2d00eb95fba-s700-c85.jpg\" alt=\"The Ebony Cookbook.\" width=\"400\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_4711_1-copy_custom-d99f51b6cc70c12e9bc354e723a7f2d00eb95fba-s700-c85.jpg 700w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_4711_1-copy_custom-d99f51b6cc70c12e9bc354e723a7f2d00eb95fba-s700-c85-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_4711_1-copy_custom-d99f51b6cc70c12e9bc354e723a7f2d00eb95fba-s700-c85-240x359.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_4711_1-copy_custom-d99f51b6cc70c12e9bc354e723a7f2d00eb95fba-s700-c85-375x561.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_4711_1-copy_custom-d99f51b6cc70c12e9bc354e723a7f2d00eb95fba-s700-c85-520x779.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Ebony Cookbook. \u003ccite>(Donna Battle Pierce for NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"The Scotts were the inspiration for my early cooking aspirations, which gave me every opportunity to absorb all of their fine recipes and rudiments of cooking, preparing food and catering,\" DeKnight wrote in The Collector's Corner, a section of the cookbook that showcased recipes curated from \"Negroes all over the country\" – from caterers in Philadelphia to home cooks in Arkansas and celebrity cooks in California. Each recipe was accompanied by a short biography of the cook. (The Scotts were among those featured.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Collector's Corner showcased recipes from many regions of the U.S., such as Mama Scott's Bechamel Sauce, Effie Jenkins' Mexican Shrimp, Fred Knight's Lobster Newburg and Charlie Saunder's Hot Water Cornbread. (Indeed, the cookbook includes no less than 15 different recipes for cornbread – a reflection, perhaps, of DeKnight's upbringing in a town where corn was a critical part of the local economy.) But, as DeKnight wrote, all the dishes included were stirred with \"Negro culture.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sadly, only the 1948 edition of \u003cem>A Date With A Dish\u003c/em> included The Collector's Corner. The section was left out of the subsequent 1962, 1973 and 1978 editions of the cookbook, which was rebranded as \u003cem>The Ebony Cookbook\u003c/em>. It's the 1948 edition that remains the most significant, becoming an heirloom, passed down through generations of black families and described by today's black food writers and historians as among the most transformative recipe collections published in the 20th century.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Freda DeKnight was a pioneer in translating the \u003cem>Ebony\u003c/em> message of middle-class education, intelligence and dignity to the recipes she shared in her columns and cookbook,\" says Charlotte Lyons, who was an \u003cem>Ebony\u003c/em> food editor for 25 years, from 1985 to 2010.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_115406\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2664px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-115406\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/file-feb-10-3-35-17-pm-32cfe3859541f33401eca116f70dec54fa736f60.jpe\" alt=\"A recipe for chocolate chip cookies from the 1948 edition of A Date with A Dish.\" width=\"2664\" height=\"1998\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/file-feb-10-3-35-17-pm-32cfe3859541f33401eca116f70dec54fa736f60.jpe 2664w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/file-feb-10-3-35-17-pm-32cfe3859541f33401eca116f70dec54fa736f60-160x120.jpe 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/file-feb-10-3-35-17-pm-32cfe3859541f33401eca116f70dec54fa736f60-800x600.jpe 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/file-feb-10-3-35-17-pm-32cfe3859541f33401eca116f70dec54fa736f60-768x576.jpe 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/file-feb-10-3-35-17-pm-32cfe3859541f33401eca116f70dec54fa736f60-1020x765.jpe 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/file-feb-10-3-35-17-pm-32cfe3859541f33401eca116f70dec54fa736f60-1180x885.jpe 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/file-feb-10-3-35-17-pm-32cfe3859541f33401eca116f70dec54fa736f60-960x720.jpe 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/file-feb-10-3-35-17-pm-32cfe3859541f33401eca116f70dec54fa736f60-240x180.jpe 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/file-feb-10-3-35-17-pm-32cfe3859541f33401eca116f70dec54fa736f60-375x281.jpe 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/file-feb-10-3-35-17-pm-32cfe3859541f33401eca116f70dec54fa736f60-520x390.jpe 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2664px) 100vw, 2664px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A recipe for chocolate chip cookies from the 1948 edition of A Date with A Dish. \u003ccite>(Donna Battle PIerce)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>DeKnight didn't limit her celebration of African-American culture to the culinary world. She rose to the position of home service director at Johnson Publishing, home of \u003cem>Ebony. \u003c/em>And in 1957, she staged the first Ebony Fashion Fair, \"stirring Negro culture\" into international haute couture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She appeared frequently on television, demonstrating recipes like violet-petal cake, and scouted the country for models for the pages of \u003cem>Ebony. (\u003c/em>Among her discoveries: a young Diahann Carroll.) In 1960, she underwent surgery for cancer. Still, she continued to travel with the fashion fair until 1962, when advancing illness left her increasingly weakened. She died in January 1963 at age 54.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>DeKnight's obituary appeared in the August 1963 issue of \u003cem>Negro Digest\u003c/em>. It was titled \"Tribute To A Lady Titan.\" Noting her role in revamping the image of African-Americans in the public sphere, the writer called DeKnight \"a familiar figure at professional food and fashion gatherings where Negroes had been seen before only as servants.\" She opened the door to career choices for future generations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Because she wasn't a hidden figure for me, I'm certain childhood memories of DeKnight's A \u003cem>Date With A Dish\u003c/em> column and cookbook – my own copy passed down from my grandmother\u003cstrong> --\u003c/strong> had much to do with me choosing a career in writing about the importance of saving family recipes, and my deep appreciation of Black American foodways in particular.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Donna Battle Pierce is a journalist and food columnist based in Chicago. She is currently writing a book on Freda DeKnight.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
"disqusIdentifier": "115401 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=115401",
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"excerpt": "DeKnight was \u003cem>Ebony\u003c/em>'s first food editor and author of a best-selling African-American cookbook in the '40s. Her recipes presented a vision of black America that was often invisible in mainstream media.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\u003cem>\"It is not an accident that there is a blackout on the Black man's contributions in America.\"\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\nDr. Melvin Chapman (1928-2015), educator, Detroit, Mich.\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Inside the dark theater, during a recent showing of \u003cem>Hidden Figures, \u003c/em>the pioneering food journalist and cookbook writer Freda DeKnight came to mind several times\u003cem>. \u003c/em>The Oscar-nominated film highlights the lives of three African-American women whose brilliant mathematical contributions to NASA and the Apollo program were left out of most magazines, news reports and books that covered the U.S. space program.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As a Baby Boomer, born the decade following their amazing accomplishments, I felt betrayed by national media when I first discovered that their brilliance had been concealed from me during a time when I needed it most. I grew up during a decade my parents described as the \"tough, but necessary path of integration\" in the midst of the Civil Rights movement, the Vietnam War, and the assassinations of John F. Kennedy and Martin Luther King Jr.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Later, when my friend referred to the purposeful leaving out of African-American accomplishments as a \"separate and unequal\" approach to American history, she mentioned a plan. \"Our job isn't done until we pull every 'hidden figure' out of the American history closet,\" she said, adding that we should each dig deeper into our field of expertise. Which is why, as an African-American food journalist, I am concerned about culinary \"hidden figures.\" So I'll begin with this question: What do you know about Freda DeKnight?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Born in 1909, DeKnight spent much of her 54 years collecting, protecting and celebrating African-American culture and traditions in the years after World War II up to the civil rights movement. Yet her name has been all but forgotten – she doesn't even have that most basic of 21st century acknowledgements, a Wikipedia page.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As the first food editor for \u003cem>Ebony\u003c/em> magazine, DeKnight wrote a photo-driven monthly column that offered her home economist's tips, as well as regional recipes from the \"Negro community\" of home cooks, professional chefs, caterers, restaurateurs and celebrities.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_115403\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2994px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-115403\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/file-feb-10-3-38-41-pm_custom-9b437a2a7e447c58b97f5838d5c8dea7205251e1.jpe\" alt=\"Freda DeKnight's Banana Orange Caramel Cake, from her 1948 cookbook Date With A Dish. Banana-based dishes have a long history in the South. Ships ferrying the fruit from the Caribbean to be distributed across America would drop off ripe ones at Gulf Coast ports like Mobile, Ala.\" width=\"2994\" height=\"1998\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/file-feb-10-3-38-41-pm_custom-9b437a2a7e447c58b97f5838d5c8dea7205251e1.jpe 2994w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/file-feb-10-3-38-41-pm_custom-9b437a2a7e447c58b97f5838d5c8dea7205251e1-160x107.jpe 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/file-feb-10-3-38-41-pm_custom-9b437a2a7e447c58b97f5838d5c8dea7205251e1-800x534.jpe 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/file-feb-10-3-38-41-pm_custom-9b437a2a7e447c58b97f5838d5c8dea7205251e1-768x513.jpe 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/file-feb-10-3-38-41-pm_custom-9b437a2a7e447c58b97f5838d5c8dea7205251e1-1020x681.jpe 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/file-feb-10-3-38-41-pm_custom-9b437a2a7e447c58b97f5838d5c8dea7205251e1-1180x787.jpe 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/file-feb-10-3-38-41-pm_custom-9b437a2a7e447c58b97f5838d5c8dea7205251e1-960x641.jpe 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/file-feb-10-3-38-41-pm_custom-9b437a2a7e447c58b97f5838d5c8dea7205251e1-240x160.jpe 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/file-feb-10-3-38-41-pm_custom-9b437a2a7e447c58b97f5838d5c8dea7205251e1-375x250.jpe 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/file-feb-10-3-38-41-pm_custom-9b437a2a7e447c58b97f5838d5c8dea7205251e1-520x347.jpe 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2994px) 100vw, 2994px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Freda DeKnight's Banana Orange Caramel Cake, from her 1948 cookbook Date With A Dish. Banana-based dishes have a long history in the South. Ships ferrying the fruit from the Caribbean to be distributed across America would drop off ripe ones at Gulf Coast ports like Mobile, Ala. \u003ccite>(Donna Battle Pierce for NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The column in \u003cem>Ebony'\u003c/em>s 1947 February issue, for instance, featured the singer and actress Lena Horne wearing a prim, Swiss-dotted, ruffled apron and preparing what DeKnight described as \"an exotic Oriental dish ... East Indian chicken.\" The dish was actually a taste of the broader African diaspora: It was from Trinidad, whose melting pot cuisine reflects a population that includes both descendants of African slaves and of Indians brought over as indentured servants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Instead of the traditional recipe format, directions appeared as photo captions. \"Lena adds a dash more curry to suit her taste,\" read one caption, for a photo showing Horne taking a test sip from a spoon above a large pot. (It also included a plug for her film \u003cem>Till the Clouds Roll By\u003c/em>.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This was one of the many ways in which DeKnight presented a more nuanced and often glamorous image of African-American cooking and culture — not just to African-American readers, but to the broader world.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Freda DeKnight was one of the first who brought international attention to African-American food. ... She was a trailblazer,\" says Jessica Harris – herself a respected trailblazer: an educator, culinary historian and author of a dozen books about African-American culture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Ebony\u003c/em> was read not just in the United States but also in Europe, Africa and the Caribbean — \"especially as the Civil Rights movement burgeoned and grew with international repute,\" says Harris.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_115404\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1150px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-115404\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/twobooksyellowblue_wide-9f47d671be6123d9c1bdd2389d109ecc4b1364b3.jpg\" alt=\"Covers from two editions of Freda DeKnight's cookbook. The first edition was called A Date With A Dish. Later updates were rebranded as The Ebony Cookbook.\" width=\"1150\" height=\"647\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/twobooksyellowblue_wide-9f47d671be6123d9c1bdd2389d109ecc4b1364b3.jpg 1150w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/twobooksyellowblue_wide-9f47d671be6123d9c1bdd2389d109ecc4b1364b3-160x90.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/twobooksyellowblue_wide-9f47d671be6123d9c1bdd2389d109ecc4b1364b3-800x450.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/twobooksyellowblue_wide-9f47d671be6123d9c1bdd2389d109ecc4b1364b3-768x432.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/twobooksyellowblue_wide-9f47d671be6123d9c1bdd2389d109ecc4b1364b3-1020x574.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/twobooksyellowblue_wide-9f47d671be6123d9c1bdd2389d109ecc4b1364b3-960x540.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/twobooksyellowblue_wide-9f47d671be6123d9c1bdd2389d109ecc4b1364b3-240x135.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/twobooksyellowblue_wide-9f47d671be6123d9c1bdd2389d109ecc4b1364b3-375x211.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/twobooksyellowblue_wide-9f47d671be6123d9c1bdd2389d109ecc4b1364b3-520x293.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1150px) 100vw, 1150px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Covers from two editions of Freda DeKnight's cookbook. The first edition was called A Date With A Dish. Later updates were rebranded as The Ebony Cookbook. \u003ccite>(Donna Battle Pierce for NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>DeKnight's \"work with \u003cem>Ebony\u003c/em> brought our dishes to a larger world, and their dishes to us,\" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 1948, DeKnight published her only cookbook,\u003cem> A Date With A Dish: A Cookbook of American Negro Recipes. \u003c/em>It is considered the first major cookbook written by an African-American for an African-American audience. It showcased a wide variety of recipes from \"Negro households,\" from Tamale Pie — which DeKnight described as \"fitting in these days when California and Mexico are in the spotlight\" – to filet mignon; from Shortnin' Bread to Key Lime Pie.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By documenting the breadth and depth of African-American culinary know-how, DeKnight challenged the stereotypes of what black cooking could be. Published seven years before Rosa Parks refused to give up her seat on a Montgomery, Ala., bus, and 16 years before the Civil Rights Act of 1964, \u003cem>A Date With A Dish\u003c/em> was a powerful affirmation of black culture. As DeKnight wrote in the preface:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\u003cem>\"It is a fallacy, long disproved, that Negro cooks, chefs, caterers and homemakers can adapt the\u003c/em>\u003cem>m\u003c/em>\u003cem>selves only to the standard Southern dishes, such as fried chicken, greens, corn pone and hot breads. Like other Americans living in various sections of the country they have naturally shown a desire to become versatile in the preparation of any dish, whether it is Spanish, Italian, French, Bal\u003c/em>\u003cem>i\u003c/em>\u003cem>nese or East Indian in origin.\"\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>The book became a national best-seller.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I grew up in the 1950s and '60s in a family of black physicians and educators. DeKnight knew both of my grandmothers socially. And both my Granny and Gran used to say that, compared to other black cookbooks, which they described as a folksy approach for white households employing black cooks, \u003cem>A Date With a Dish\u003c/em> was the first to \"represent the race with dignity ... deliciously.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>DeKnight's culinary ambitions were rooted in her upbringing. She was born in Kansas, a generation after a great wave of African-Americans known as the Exodusters left the South post-Civil War and migrated into Kansas. Her father, a Topeka, Kansas-based Pullman steward, died when she was 2. Her mother, a traveling nurse, moved DeKnight and her sister to Mitchell, S.D., to live with family. DeKnight grew up in the farm home of Paul and Mamie Scott, a couple who ran a successful catering company in town. DeKnight later credited the Scotts with setting her down her future career path.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_115414\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-115414\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_4711_1-copy_custom-d99f51b6cc70c12e9bc354e723a7f2d00eb95fba-s700-c85.jpg\" alt=\"The Ebony Cookbook.\" width=\"400\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_4711_1-copy_custom-d99f51b6cc70c12e9bc354e723a7f2d00eb95fba-s700-c85.jpg 700w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_4711_1-copy_custom-d99f51b6cc70c12e9bc354e723a7f2d00eb95fba-s700-c85-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_4711_1-copy_custom-d99f51b6cc70c12e9bc354e723a7f2d00eb95fba-s700-c85-240x359.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_4711_1-copy_custom-d99f51b6cc70c12e9bc354e723a7f2d00eb95fba-s700-c85-375x561.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_4711_1-copy_custom-d99f51b6cc70c12e9bc354e723a7f2d00eb95fba-s700-c85-520x779.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Ebony Cookbook. \u003ccite>(Donna Battle Pierce for NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"The Scotts were the inspiration for my early cooking aspirations, which gave me every opportunity to absorb all of their fine recipes and rudiments of cooking, preparing food and catering,\" DeKnight wrote in The Collector's Corner, a section of the cookbook that showcased recipes curated from \"Negroes all over the country\" – from caterers in Philadelphia to home cooks in Arkansas and celebrity cooks in California. Each recipe was accompanied by a short biography of the cook. (The Scotts were among those featured.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Collector's Corner showcased recipes from many regions of the U.S., such as Mama Scott's Bechamel Sauce, Effie Jenkins' Mexican Shrimp, Fred Knight's Lobster Newburg and Charlie Saunder's Hot Water Cornbread. (Indeed, the cookbook includes no less than 15 different recipes for cornbread – a reflection, perhaps, of DeKnight's upbringing in a town where corn was a critical part of the local economy.) But, as DeKnight wrote, all the dishes included were stirred with \"Negro culture.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sadly, only the 1948 edition of \u003cem>A Date With A Dish\u003c/em> included The Collector's Corner. The section was left out of the subsequent 1962, 1973 and 1978 editions of the cookbook, which was rebranded as \u003cem>The Ebony Cookbook\u003c/em>. It's the 1948 edition that remains the most significant, becoming an heirloom, passed down through generations of black families and described by today's black food writers and historians as among the most transformative recipe collections published in the 20th century.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Freda DeKnight was a pioneer in translating the \u003cem>Ebony\u003c/em> message of middle-class education, intelligence and dignity to the recipes she shared in her columns and cookbook,\" says Charlotte Lyons, who was an \u003cem>Ebony\u003c/em> food editor for 25 years, from 1985 to 2010.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_115406\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2664px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-115406\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/file-feb-10-3-35-17-pm-32cfe3859541f33401eca116f70dec54fa736f60.jpe\" alt=\"A recipe for chocolate chip cookies from the 1948 edition of A Date with A Dish.\" width=\"2664\" height=\"1998\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/file-feb-10-3-35-17-pm-32cfe3859541f33401eca116f70dec54fa736f60.jpe 2664w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/file-feb-10-3-35-17-pm-32cfe3859541f33401eca116f70dec54fa736f60-160x120.jpe 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/file-feb-10-3-35-17-pm-32cfe3859541f33401eca116f70dec54fa736f60-800x600.jpe 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/file-feb-10-3-35-17-pm-32cfe3859541f33401eca116f70dec54fa736f60-768x576.jpe 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/file-feb-10-3-35-17-pm-32cfe3859541f33401eca116f70dec54fa736f60-1020x765.jpe 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/file-feb-10-3-35-17-pm-32cfe3859541f33401eca116f70dec54fa736f60-1180x885.jpe 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/file-feb-10-3-35-17-pm-32cfe3859541f33401eca116f70dec54fa736f60-960x720.jpe 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/file-feb-10-3-35-17-pm-32cfe3859541f33401eca116f70dec54fa736f60-240x180.jpe 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/file-feb-10-3-35-17-pm-32cfe3859541f33401eca116f70dec54fa736f60-375x281.jpe 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/file-feb-10-3-35-17-pm-32cfe3859541f33401eca116f70dec54fa736f60-520x390.jpe 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2664px) 100vw, 2664px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A recipe for chocolate chip cookies from the 1948 edition of A Date with A Dish. \u003ccite>(Donna Battle PIerce)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>DeKnight didn't limit her celebration of African-American culture to the culinary world. She rose to the position of home service director at Johnson Publishing, home of \u003cem>Ebony. \u003c/em>And in 1957, she staged the first Ebony Fashion Fair, \"stirring Negro culture\" into international haute couture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She appeared frequently on television, demonstrating recipes like violet-petal cake, and scouted the country for models for the pages of \u003cem>Ebony. (\u003c/em>Among her discoveries: a young Diahann Carroll.) In 1960, she underwent surgery for cancer. Still, she continued to travel with the fashion fair until 1962, when advancing illness left her increasingly weakened. She died in January 1963 at age 54.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>DeKnight's obituary appeared in the August 1963 issue of \u003cem>Negro Digest\u003c/em>. It was titled \"Tribute To A Lady Titan.\" Noting her role in revamping the image of African-Americans in the public sphere, the writer called DeKnight \"a familiar figure at professional food and fashion gatherings where Negroes had been seen before only as servants.\" She opened the door to career choices for future generations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Because she wasn't a hidden figure for me, I'm certain childhood memories of DeKnight's A \u003cem>Date With A Dish\u003c/em> column and cookbook – my own copy passed down from my grandmother\u003cstrong> --\u003c/strong> had much to do with me choosing a career in writing about the importance of saving family recipes, and my deep appreciation of Black American foodways in particular.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Donna Battle Pierce is a journalist and food columnist based in Chicago. She is currently writing a book on Freda DeKnight.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "How Chocolate Became A Sweet (But Not So Innocent) Consort To Valentine's Day",
"title": "How Chocolate Became A Sweet (But Not So Innocent) Consort To Valentine's Day",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>A heart-shaped box of chocolate is a sign of love, a symbol — and often tool — of romance, and an intrinsic part of Valentine's Day.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>From at least the time of the Aztecs, chocolate has been seen as an aphrodisiac. So it's reasonable to assume that it has been connected to love's dedicated day of celebration for many centuries. But, that isn't the case.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The roots of Valentine's Day are ancient but far from clear, and likely originated in the pagan Roman fertility festival of Lupercalia. Those Romans, though, exchanged not candies but whippings — part of a complicated \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2011/02/14/133693152/the-dark-origins-of-valentines-day\">fertility ritual\u003c/a> that began with sacrificing a goat and dog.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This morphed into a tamer Christian feast day in A.D. 496, when Pope Gelasius I commemorated a martyred saint, Valentine. Or saints. In the third century, the Roman emperor Claudius II executed two men named Valentine on Feb. 14th, albeit in different years.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was \u003cem>Canterbury Tales\u003c/em> author Geoffrey Chaucer who first specifically linked the holiday with love birds — literally. In his 1382 dream poem \u003ca href=\"http://www.librarius.com/parliamentfs.htm\">\u003cem>The Parliament of Fowls,\u003c/em>\u003c/a> a large group of birds gather on \"Seynt Valentynes day\" to choose their mates.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Love-gazing poets followed Chaucer's lead, helping to popularize the amorous day through tales of courtly love, chivalric knights and fair maidens. Amateur bards took up their quills, too, and followed the tradition of writing verse to their paramours for the occasion — teasing couplets and sappy sonnets often surreptitiously passed in early valentines.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By the mid-19th century, Feb. 14 had become the day in Britain (and the U.S.) on which people expressed their affection by exchanging lavish cards decorated with lace, ribbons and plump, bow-and-arrow-wielding Cupids.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Amongst these maudlin missives arrived chocolate, with its lustier undertones.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>From Europe's first contact with it, chocolate had a reputation for aphrodisiac powers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bernal Díaz Castillo, chronicler of Hernan Cortéz´s conquest of Mexico, claimed that during a banquet with Moctezuma, the great Aztec emperor was served gold cups \"with a certain drink made of cacao, which they said was for success with woman.\" At first the Spaniard paid little attention, but then \"saw that they brought more than 50 great jars of prepared cacao with its foam, and he drank that.\" \u003ca href=\"#_edn1\" name=\"_ednref1\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_115342\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 700px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/casanova_custom-5fc69443c89da4f85c787e75b393b048ab48eb77-s700-c85.jpg\" alt='Giacomo Casanova, the Venetian-born adventurer, gambler, and womanizer, called chocolate the \"elixir of love.\"' width=\"700\" height=\"884\" class=\"size-full wp-image-115342\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/casanova_custom-5fc69443c89da4f85c787e75b393b048ab48eb77-s700-c85.jpg 700w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/casanova_custom-5fc69443c89da4f85c787e75b393b048ab48eb77-s700-c85-160x202.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/casanova_custom-5fc69443c89da4f85c787e75b393b048ab48eb77-s700-c85-240x303.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/casanova_custom-5fc69443c89da4f85c787e75b393b048ab48eb77-s700-c85-375x474.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/casanova_custom-5fc69443c89da4f85c787e75b393b048ab48eb77-s700-c85-520x657.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Giacomo Casanova, the Venetian-born adventurer, gambler, and womanizer, called chocolate the \"elixir of love.\" \u003ccite>( Keystone/Getty Images)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Mugs of the frothy drink proved immediately popular back in Spain. And chocolate was embraced with equal passion when it traveled beyond Spain's borders, going to Italy, France (perhaps in 1615, when Anne of Austria, chocolate lover and daughter of the Spanish king, married Louis XIII), and, step by step, across Europe.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wherever chocolate went, its reputation as a sexual stimulant seemed to follow. Giacomo Casanova called chocolate the \"elixir of love\" and the notorious Marquis de Sade celebrated its potency.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In Restoration England, the learned physician Henry Stubbe wrote in \u003cem>The Natural History of Chocolate\u003c/em> (1662) of the \"great use of \u003cem>Chocolate \u003c/em>in Venery [sexual indulgence], and for supplying the Testicles with a Balsam, or a Sap.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Stubbe not only advocated the drink, but often prepared it for the insatiable Charles II, whose notorious \u003ca href=\"http://www.historyextra.com/article/sex-and-love/charles-ii-too-randy-rule\">appetite\u003c/a> for sex was matched only by that for chocolate. In 1669, the merry monarch, England's first chocoholic, \u003ca href=\"http://www.historytoday.com/allison-barnes/charlie-and-chocolate-inventory\">spent\u003c/a> £229 10s. 8d. on chocolate. That's significantly more than he spent on tea (just £6), or even what his chief mistress received for an allowance (£200). For most people, though, chocolate was still an extravagance out of reach.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By the time the more staid reign of Queen Victoria began in 1837, that had changed. Valentine's Day was hitting its stride, thanks to the rise of the inexpensive penny post and mass-produced cards, and chocolate had become affordable to the middle class. Its popularity was soaring.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 1847, the British chocolate maker J.S. Fry & Sons produced the first modern-day bar —that is, chocolate to eat rather than drink. The company combined cacao powder and sugar with cacao butter (the fat extracted from cacao beans) to form a moldable paste. A few years later, the company sold the first filled chocolates with flavored centers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But its rival Cadbury would ultimately be the one to connect Valentine's Day with chocolate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tapping into the Victorian fondness for ornamentation, Richard Cadbury launched \"Fancy Boxes\" of chocolates in 1861. Inside, under a heavily decorated lid, assorted bonbons filled with marzipan, chocolate-flavored ganache and fruity crèmes nestled in lace doilies.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It didn't take long—1868 according to \u003cem>The \u003c/em>\u003cem>Oxford\u003c/em> \u003cem>Companion to \u003c/em>\u003cem>Sugar and Sweets \u003c/em>— for Cadbury to create a Fancy Box in the shape of a heart for the romantic holiday. Once the chocolates had been eaten, the boxes were deeply prized by sentimental Victorians, who stored love letters, lockets of hair, and other treasured mementos inside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_115339\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1996px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/cadbury_enl-b1a030d4488e46506a25e56f90cf099956920c53.jpg\" alt=\"It was Cadbury that first linked Valentine's Day with those heart-shaped boxes filled with chocolates nestled in lace doilies. Here, women work on a production line at Cadbury's in England in 1966.\" width=\"1996\" height=\"1394\" class=\"size-full wp-image-115339\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/cadbury_enl-b1a030d4488e46506a25e56f90cf099956920c53.jpg 1996w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/cadbury_enl-b1a030d4488e46506a25e56f90cf099956920c53-160x112.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/cadbury_enl-b1a030d4488e46506a25e56f90cf099956920c53-800x559.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/cadbury_enl-b1a030d4488e46506a25e56f90cf099956920c53-768x536.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/cadbury_enl-b1a030d4488e46506a25e56f90cf099956920c53-1020x712.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/cadbury_enl-b1a030d4488e46506a25e56f90cf099956920c53-1180x824.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/cadbury_enl-b1a030d4488e46506a25e56f90cf099956920c53-960x670.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/cadbury_enl-b1a030d4488e46506a25e56f90cf099956920c53-240x168.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/cadbury_enl-b1a030d4488e46506a25e56f90cf099956920c53-375x262.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/cadbury_enl-b1a030d4488e46506a25e56f90cf099956920c53-520x363.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1996px) 100vw, 1996px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">It was Cadbury that first linked Valentine's Day with those heart-shaped boxes filled with chocolates nestled in lace doilies. Here, women work on a production line at Cadbury's in England in 1966. \u003ccite>(Mirrorpix/Getty Images)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The idea took wing globally and became a lasting commercial phenomenon. In the United States this year, some 40 million heart-shaped boxes of chocolates will be sold for Valentine's Day. Over half of those are from \u003ca href=\"http://www.russellstover.com/\">Russell Stover\u003c/a> — many with lids festooned in enough roses, red satin and lace to please even the most lovesick Victorian.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Modern science has found \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2006/07/18/health/18real.html\">little evidence\u003c/a> of chocolate's purported libido-boosting properties. (That's not say it doesn't have highly potent \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2015/07/04/417366802/aphrodisiacs-can-spark-sexual-imagination-but-probably-not-libido\">psychological ones\u003c/a>.) Regardless, for holiday celebrants, chocolate retains its allure.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to the \u003ca href=\"http://www.candyusa.com/\">National Confectioners Association\u003c/a>, U.S. consumers will shell out around $1 billion for Valentine's Day candy this year. At least \u003ca href=\"http://www.candyusa.com/life-candy/valentines-day-central/bites-bits-and-bon-bons-fun-facts-about-valentines-day/\">75 percent\u003c/a> of that will be on chocolate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And while flowers might be an even greater symbol of love, an \u003ca href=\"http://www.candyusa.com/life-candy/valentines-day-central/bites-bits-and-bon-bons-fun-facts-about-valentines-day/\">overwhelming number\u003c/a> of Americas prefer chocolate to a bouquet of blossoms, some 69 percent.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As \u003cem>Peanuts\u003c/em> creator Charles M. Schulz famously once said, \"All you need is love. But a little chocolate now and then doesn't hurt.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Jeff Koehler's \u003c/em>Darjeeling \u003cem>won the 2016 IACP Award for literary food writing. \u003c/em>Where the Wild Coffee Grows\u003cem> will be published in autumn. Follow him on \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/koehlercooks\" target=\"_blank\">Twitter\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/jeff_koehler/?hl=en\" target=\"_blank\">Instagram\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "From the time of the Aztecs, chocolate has been seen as an aphrodisiac. (Casanova certainly thought so.) But it took many centuries for it to become the taste of the love holiday.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>A heart-shaped box of chocolate is a sign of love, a symbol — and often tool — of romance, and an intrinsic part of Valentine's Day.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>From at least the time of the Aztecs, chocolate has been seen as an aphrodisiac. So it's reasonable to assume that it has been connected to love's dedicated day of celebration for many centuries. But, that isn't the case.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The roots of Valentine's Day are ancient but far from clear, and likely originated in the pagan Roman fertility festival of Lupercalia. Those Romans, though, exchanged not candies but whippings — part of a complicated \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2011/02/14/133693152/the-dark-origins-of-valentines-day\">fertility ritual\u003c/a> that began with sacrificing a goat and dog.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This morphed into a tamer Christian feast day in A.D. 496, when Pope Gelasius I commemorated a martyred saint, Valentine. Or saints. In the third century, the Roman emperor Claudius II executed two men named Valentine on Feb. 14th, albeit in different years.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was \u003cem>Canterbury Tales\u003c/em> author Geoffrey Chaucer who first specifically linked the holiday with love birds — literally. In his 1382 dream poem \u003ca href=\"http://www.librarius.com/parliamentfs.htm\">\u003cem>The Parliament of Fowls,\u003c/em>\u003c/a> a large group of birds gather on \"Seynt Valentynes day\" to choose their mates.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Love-gazing poets followed Chaucer's lead, helping to popularize the amorous day through tales of courtly love, chivalric knights and fair maidens. Amateur bards took up their quills, too, and followed the tradition of writing verse to their paramours for the occasion — teasing couplets and sappy sonnets often surreptitiously passed in early valentines.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By the mid-19th century, Feb. 14 had become the day in Britain (and the U.S.) on which people expressed their affection by exchanging lavish cards decorated with lace, ribbons and plump, bow-and-arrow-wielding Cupids.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Amongst these maudlin missives arrived chocolate, with its lustier undertones.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>From Europe's first contact with it, chocolate had a reputation for aphrodisiac powers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bernal Díaz Castillo, chronicler of Hernan Cortéz´s conquest of Mexico, claimed that during a banquet with Moctezuma, the great Aztec emperor was served gold cups \"with a certain drink made of cacao, which they said was for success with woman.\" At first the Spaniard paid little attention, but then \"saw that they brought more than 50 great jars of prepared cacao with its foam, and he drank that.\" \u003ca href=\"#_edn1\" name=\"_ednref1\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_115342\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 700px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/casanova_custom-5fc69443c89da4f85c787e75b393b048ab48eb77-s700-c85.jpg\" alt='Giacomo Casanova, the Venetian-born adventurer, gambler, and womanizer, called chocolate the \"elixir of love.\"' width=\"700\" height=\"884\" class=\"size-full wp-image-115342\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/casanova_custom-5fc69443c89da4f85c787e75b393b048ab48eb77-s700-c85.jpg 700w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/casanova_custom-5fc69443c89da4f85c787e75b393b048ab48eb77-s700-c85-160x202.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/casanova_custom-5fc69443c89da4f85c787e75b393b048ab48eb77-s700-c85-240x303.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/casanova_custom-5fc69443c89da4f85c787e75b393b048ab48eb77-s700-c85-375x474.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/casanova_custom-5fc69443c89da4f85c787e75b393b048ab48eb77-s700-c85-520x657.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Giacomo Casanova, the Venetian-born adventurer, gambler, and womanizer, called chocolate the \"elixir of love.\" \u003ccite>( Keystone/Getty Images)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Mugs of the frothy drink proved immediately popular back in Spain. And chocolate was embraced with equal passion when it traveled beyond Spain's borders, going to Italy, France (perhaps in 1615, when Anne of Austria, chocolate lover and daughter of the Spanish king, married Louis XIII), and, step by step, across Europe.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wherever chocolate went, its reputation as a sexual stimulant seemed to follow. Giacomo Casanova called chocolate the \"elixir of love\" and the notorious Marquis de Sade celebrated its potency.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In Restoration England, the learned physician Henry Stubbe wrote in \u003cem>The Natural History of Chocolate\u003c/em> (1662) of the \"great use of \u003cem>Chocolate \u003c/em>in Venery [sexual indulgence], and for supplying the Testicles with a Balsam, or a Sap.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Stubbe not only advocated the drink, but often prepared it for the insatiable Charles II, whose notorious \u003ca href=\"http://www.historyextra.com/article/sex-and-love/charles-ii-too-randy-rule\">appetite\u003c/a> for sex was matched only by that for chocolate. In 1669, the merry monarch, England's first chocoholic, \u003ca href=\"http://www.historytoday.com/allison-barnes/charlie-and-chocolate-inventory\">spent\u003c/a> £229 10s. 8d. on chocolate. That's significantly more than he spent on tea (just £6), or even what his chief mistress received for an allowance (£200). For most people, though, chocolate was still an extravagance out of reach.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By the time the more staid reign of Queen Victoria began in 1837, that had changed. Valentine's Day was hitting its stride, thanks to the rise of the inexpensive penny post and mass-produced cards, and chocolate had become affordable to the middle class. Its popularity was soaring.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 1847, the British chocolate maker J.S. Fry & Sons produced the first modern-day bar —that is, chocolate to eat rather than drink. The company combined cacao powder and sugar with cacao butter (the fat extracted from cacao beans) to form a moldable paste. A few years later, the company sold the first filled chocolates with flavored centers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But its rival Cadbury would ultimately be the one to connect Valentine's Day with chocolate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tapping into the Victorian fondness for ornamentation, Richard Cadbury launched \"Fancy Boxes\" of chocolates in 1861. Inside, under a heavily decorated lid, assorted bonbons filled with marzipan, chocolate-flavored ganache and fruity crèmes nestled in lace doilies.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It didn't take long—1868 according to \u003cem>The \u003c/em>\u003cem>Oxford\u003c/em> \u003cem>Companion to \u003c/em>\u003cem>Sugar and Sweets \u003c/em>— for Cadbury to create a Fancy Box in the shape of a heart for the romantic holiday. Once the chocolates had been eaten, the boxes were deeply prized by sentimental Victorians, who stored love letters, lockets of hair, and other treasured mementos inside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_115339\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1996px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/cadbury_enl-b1a030d4488e46506a25e56f90cf099956920c53.jpg\" alt=\"It was Cadbury that first linked Valentine's Day with those heart-shaped boxes filled with chocolates nestled in lace doilies. Here, women work on a production line at Cadbury's in England in 1966.\" width=\"1996\" height=\"1394\" class=\"size-full wp-image-115339\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/cadbury_enl-b1a030d4488e46506a25e56f90cf099956920c53.jpg 1996w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/cadbury_enl-b1a030d4488e46506a25e56f90cf099956920c53-160x112.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/cadbury_enl-b1a030d4488e46506a25e56f90cf099956920c53-800x559.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/cadbury_enl-b1a030d4488e46506a25e56f90cf099956920c53-768x536.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/cadbury_enl-b1a030d4488e46506a25e56f90cf099956920c53-1020x712.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/cadbury_enl-b1a030d4488e46506a25e56f90cf099956920c53-1180x824.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/cadbury_enl-b1a030d4488e46506a25e56f90cf099956920c53-960x670.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/cadbury_enl-b1a030d4488e46506a25e56f90cf099956920c53-240x168.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/cadbury_enl-b1a030d4488e46506a25e56f90cf099956920c53-375x262.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/cadbury_enl-b1a030d4488e46506a25e56f90cf099956920c53-520x363.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1996px) 100vw, 1996px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">It was Cadbury that first linked Valentine's Day with those heart-shaped boxes filled with chocolates nestled in lace doilies. Here, women work on a production line at Cadbury's in England in 1966. \u003ccite>(Mirrorpix/Getty Images)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The idea took wing globally and became a lasting commercial phenomenon. In the United States this year, some 40 million heart-shaped boxes of chocolates will be sold for Valentine's Day. Over half of those are from \u003ca href=\"http://www.russellstover.com/\">Russell Stover\u003c/a> — many with lids festooned in enough roses, red satin and lace to please even the most lovesick Victorian.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Modern science has found \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2006/07/18/health/18real.html\">little evidence\u003c/a> of chocolate's purported libido-boosting properties. (That's not say it doesn't have highly potent \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2015/07/04/417366802/aphrodisiacs-can-spark-sexual-imagination-but-probably-not-libido\">psychological ones\u003c/a>.) Regardless, for holiday celebrants, chocolate retains its allure.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to the \u003ca href=\"http://www.candyusa.com/\">National Confectioners Association\u003c/a>, U.S. consumers will shell out around $1 billion for Valentine's Day candy this year. At least \u003ca href=\"http://www.candyusa.com/life-candy/valentines-day-central/bites-bits-and-bon-bons-fun-facts-about-valentines-day/\">75 percent\u003c/a> of that will be on chocolate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And while flowers might be an even greater symbol of love, an \u003ca href=\"http://www.candyusa.com/life-candy/valentines-day-central/bites-bits-and-bon-bons-fun-facts-about-valentines-day/\">overwhelming number\u003c/a> of Americas prefer chocolate to a bouquet of blossoms, some 69 percent.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As \u003cem>Peanuts\u003c/em> creator Charles M. Schulz famously once said, \"All you need is love. But a little chocolate now and then doesn't hurt.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Jeff Koehler's \u003c/em>Darjeeling \u003cem>won the 2016 IACP Award for literary food writing. \u003c/em>Where the Wild Coffee Grows\u003cem> will be published in autumn. Follow him on \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/koehlercooks\" target=\"_blank\">Twitter\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/jeff_koehler/?hl=en\" target=\"_blank\">Instagram\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "In 'Appetites,' Bourdain Pleases The Toughest Food Critic (His 9-Year-Old)",
"title": "In 'Appetites,' Bourdain Pleases The Toughest Food Critic (His 9-Year-Old)",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the story on Fresh Air:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nhttps://ondemand.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/fa/2016/10/20161027_fa_01.mp3\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As the host of the Peabody Award-winning series \u003cem>Parts Unknown,\u003c/em>\u003cem> \u003c/em>Anthony Bourdain has visited conflict zones like Beirut, Congo, Gaza and Libya — places his CNN colleagues routinely cover. But Bourdain is clear that he doesn't want to be mistaken for a journalist.\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Journalists drop into a situation, ask a question, and people sort of tighten up,\" he tells \u003cem>Fresh Air\u003c/em>'s Dave Davies. \"Whereas if you sit down with people and just say, 'Hey what makes you happy? What do you like to eat?' They'll tell you extraordinary things, many of which have nothing to do with food.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bourdain says experiencing the everyday lives of people around the globe helps give depth to the news reports about those places. \"I mean, who are these people we are talking about when we talk about Benghazi or Libya?\" he says. \"Is it not useful to see them with their kids, to see how their everyday lives are?\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So what does Anthony Bourdain eat when he's at home, being \"ordinary\"? During the course of his 16-year-long career in television, he has developed a reputation for trying just about anything — including unwashed pig rectum and rotten shark. But his new cookbook, \u003cem>Appetites\u003c/em>, focuses on food he eats at home with his young daughter, including mac and cheese, burgers and some of his favorite Asian dishes, like Korean army stew.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"When I cook at home it's with a 9-year-old girl in mind,\" he says. \"I mean, she's who I need to please, and if she's not happy, I'm not happy. The whole house revolves around her and her friends. So it's reflective of that.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>Interview Highlights\u003c/h3>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_113082\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/9780062409959_custom-b00faa2004d5b1cf6232d31bd66e1bf2b86167fa-s600-c85.jpg\" alt=\"Appetites by Anthony Bourdain\" width=\"400\" height=\"505\" class=\"size-full wp-image-113082\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/9780062409959_custom-b00faa2004d5b1cf6232d31bd66e1bf2b86167fa-s600-c85.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/9780062409959_custom-b00faa2004d5b1cf6232d31bd66e1bf2b86167fa-s600-c85-160x202.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/9780062409959_custom-b00faa2004d5b1cf6232d31bd66e1bf2b86167fa-s600-c85-240x303.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/9780062409959_custom-b00faa2004d5b1cf6232d31bd66e1bf2b86167fa-s600-c85-375x473.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/books/titles/498575240/appetites\">Appetites\u003c/a>\u003cbr>by Anthony Bourdain\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On the cookbook \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I wanted it to be useful, approachable, reflective of the life I've lived over the past eight or nine years as a father, as opposed to a professional trying to dazzle with pretty pictures and food that's different than everybody else's. ... I wanted to make a beautiful cookbook, [a] creative-looking one, spoken in honest, straight-forward, casual terms that gives the reader reasonable expectations, that encourages them to organize themselves in the way that I've found to be useful as a professional.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's also reflective of, I think, age, and all those years in the restaurant business. Most chefs I know after work do not want to go out to dinner and be forced to think about what they're eating in a critical or analytical way. They want to experience food as they did as children, in an emotional way. The pure pleasure of that bowl of spicy noodles or even a bowl of soup that their mom gave them on a rainy day when they'd been bullied in school. I mean, that's a happy time when you can escape this world and lose yourself in food. These are recipes where hopefully, I try to evoke those feelings and emotions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On\u003c/strong>\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>\u003cstrong>starting out as a dishwasher and\u003c/strong>\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>\u003cstrong>what attracted him to the restaurant industry \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_113078\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/2016-bourdain-photo-4_-please-credit-cnn-a5ea0cb7a7a416b4f660ad237abcbc2e6cd57544-1020x765.jpg\" alt='Bourdain began his career as a dishwasher, and jokes that he learned \"all the most important lessons\" of his life scrubbing dishes.' width=\"640\" height=\"480\" class=\"size-large wp-image-113078\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/2016-bourdain-photo-4_-please-credit-cnn-a5ea0cb7a7a416b4f660ad237abcbc2e6cd57544-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/2016-bourdain-photo-4_-please-credit-cnn-a5ea0cb7a7a416b4f660ad237abcbc2e6cd57544-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/2016-bourdain-photo-4_-please-credit-cnn-a5ea0cb7a7a416b4f660ad237abcbc2e6cd57544-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/2016-bourdain-photo-4_-please-credit-cnn-a5ea0cb7a7a416b4f660ad237abcbc2e6cd57544-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/2016-bourdain-photo-4_-please-credit-cnn-a5ea0cb7a7a416b4f660ad237abcbc2e6cd57544-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/2016-bourdain-photo-4_-please-credit-cnn-a5ea0cb7a7a416b4f660ad237abcbc2e6cd57544-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/2016-bourdain-photo-4_-please-credit-cnn-a5ea0cb7a7a416b4f660ad237abcbc2e6cd57544-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/2016-bourdain-photo-4_-please-credit-cnn-a5ea0cb7a7a416b4f660ad237abcbc2e6cd57544-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/2016-bourdain-photo-4_-please-credit-cnn-a5ea0cb7a7a416b4f660ad237abcbc2e6cd57544-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bourdain began his career as a dishwasher, and jokes that he learned \"all the most important lessons\" of his life scrubbing dishes. \u003ccite>(David Scott Holloway/Ecco)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>I started working as a dishwasher one summer and it was really a big event for me, because up to that point I was lazy. I was the kid that if you hired me to shovel your walk in winter, I would really do a terrible job of it, probably find a way to weasel out. ...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The kitchen brigade [were] the first people whose respect I wanted, and the first time in my life that I went home feeling respect for myself. It was very hard work. You had to be there on time. There were certain absolutes, certain absolute rules, and for whatever reason I responded to that. ...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was a happy dishwasher. I jokingly say that I learned every important lesson, all the most important lessons of my life, as a dishwasher. In some ways that's true. Thomas Keller, the great chef, talks about ... the magic of discovering that you line the dirty dishes up, you push them in the machine, and they come out clean every time. There's something very comforting about that. ... I still like being at the bottom of a steep learning curve. I liked being the worst in the kitchen and struggling every day to earn respect and status within that hierarchy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On writing\u003c/strong>\u003cstrong> his first cookbook, \u003c/strong>\u003cstrong>\u003cem>Kitchen Confidential,\u003c/em>\u003c/strong>\u003cstrong>\u003cem> \u003c/em>\u003c/strong>\u003cstrong>and finding his writing voice\u003cem>\u003c/em>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I think, to a great extent, the reason \u003cem>Kitchen Confidential\u003c/em> sounds like it does is I just didn't have the luxury or the burden of a lot of time to sit around and contemplate the mysteries of the universe. I had to wake up at 5 o'clock in the morning, write for an hour and a half, and then I had to go to work to a real job. ...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was liberating in the sense that I had no time to think about what I was writing. I certainly had no customer or reader in mind, because I was quite sure no one would ever read it. That was in many ways a very liberating place to be. I've kind of tried to stick with that business model since.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On\u003c/strong>\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>\u003cstrong>twice\u003c/strong>\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>\u003cstrong>being given the honor to kill a pig for a village feast in Borneo \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That first time I don't think I had ever killed an animal before. I had been ordering them up as a chef over the phone, so I was culpable in the death of many animals. But here I was being asked to physically plunge a spear into the heart of a pig. It seemed to me the height of hypocrisy, however uncomfortable I might've been with that, to put it off on somebody else. I had been responsible for the death of many animals. Here I'm being asked, I didn't want to let the team down. I didn't want to dishonor the village or embarrass anyone.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The first time was very, very, very, very difficult. My camera guys almost passed out, it was certainly very difficult for me. The second time, as much as I'd like to say that it was still really hard, and I think I said in the voiceover, I don't know what it says about me, probably something very bad, that I have become — I have changed over time. I'd like to think in good ways, for the most part, but I've also become more callous. I've become able to plunge a spear into the heart of a screaming pig and live with that much more comfortably than I did the first time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On finding great neighborhood places and hearing reactions from locals \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ideally I'll go to a place, like I'll find a little bar in Rio, let's say, some little local place that perfectly expresses the neighborhood. It's not a tourist-friendly place, for lack of a better word, I hate this word but I'll use it anyway — \"authentic.\" I'll feature that on the show.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The response I'm looking for is to hear from someone from the neighborhood saying, \"How did you ever find that place? I thought only we knew about it. It's truly a place that we love and is reflective of our culture and our neighborhood.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But on the other hand, it's kind of a destructive process because if I name the place — and I don't always when it's a place like that — I change it. The next time I go back, there's tourists. There're people who've seen it on the show. Then I might hear from the same person from that neighborhood saying: \"You ruined my favorite bar!\" All the regular customers have run away and it's filled with tourists in ugly T-shirts and flip-flops.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On food he hesitates to eat \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If freshness and hygiene is a question, generally it's tribal situations that are problematic, where the whole tribe, the chief is offering you something that's what they have. Often they don't have refrigeration, it's often old — their tolerance for meat that's even spoiled is higher than [that of] my relatively sensitive stomach. Often these dishes are eaten in one large bowl with the whole tribe jamming their fingers in. So yeah, rotten food, food that's clearly not clean, water that's clearly not good — those are a challenge.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On the flavor spectrum, I'm pretty good with just about everything. ... When you get to, like, rotten shark in Iceland, I mean I could do it, but I'd rather not. Won't be doing that again. It's unpleasant but it's not the end of the world. I don't know, for sheer soul-destroying misery, if you're talking about a bite of food that just makes me question the future of the human race and sends me into a spiral of depression, I think eating an airport Johnny Rockets pretty much would be the nadir.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On getting sick \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I've lost three days of work in 16 years ... only three days that I've been down for the count and confined to bed and desperately, horribly ill. Generally speaking, if it's, like, a street-food stall that's busy, even if it looks dirty as hell, if there are a lot of locals there and they're eating and they're happy, my crew will always eat at that place. Eating a Caesar salad at the major chain hotel in Central Africa or the Middle East, that's where you run into trouble, stomach-wise, generally.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On losing interest in fine dining, because of his love of street food \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'm happiest experiencing food in the most purely emotional way. And it's true of most of my chef friends as well. When it's, like, street food or a one-chef, one-dish operation, or somebody who's just really, really good at one or two or three things that they've been doing for a very long time, that's very reflective of their ethnicity or their culture or their nationality — those are the things that just make me happy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'm spoiled, like a lot of fellow chefs. We get a lot of fine wines and dinners thrown our way and you do reach this enviable point where you just don't want to sit there for four hours, with course after course after course. It's too much, first of all. It doesn't feel good at the end of that time, and it's not interesting. And if the waiter is taking 10 minutes to describe each dish [and] it'll only take you three to eat it, something's really wrong. I think people lose sight of the fact that chefs should be ultimately in the pleasure business, not in the look-at-me business. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2016 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/programs/fresh-air/\">Fresh Air\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the story on Fresh Air:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As the host of the Peabody Award-winning series \u003cem>Parts Unknown,\u003c/em>\u003cem> \u003c/em>Anthony Bourdain has visited conflict zones like Beirut, Congo, Gaza and Libya — places his CNN colleagues routinely cover. But Bourdain is clear that he doesn't want to be mistaken for a journalist.\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Journalists drop into a situation, ask a question, and people sort of tighten up,\" he tells \u003cem>Fresh Air\u003c/em>'s Dave Davies. \"Whereas if you sit down with people and just say, 'Hey what makes you happy? What do you like to eat?' They'll tell you extraordinary things, many of which have nothing to do with food.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bourdain says experiencing the everyday lives of people around the globe helps give depth to the news reports about those places. \"I mean, who are these people we are talking about when we talk about Benghazi or Libya?\" he says. \"Is it not useful to see them with their kids, to see how their everyday lives are?\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So what does Anthony Bourdain eat when he's at home, being \"ordinary\"? During the course of his 16-year-long career in television, he has developed a reputation for trying just about anything — including unwashed pig rectum and rotten shark. But his new cookbook, \u003cem>Appetites\u003c/em>, focuses on food he eats at home with his young daughter, including mac and cheese, burgers and some of his favorite Asian dishes, like Korean army stew.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"When I cook at home it's with a 9-year-old girl in mind,\" he says. \"I mean, she's who I need to please, and if she's not happy, I'm not happy. The whole house revolves around her and her friends. So it's reflective of that.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>Interview Highlights\u003c/h3>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_113082\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/9780062409959_custom-b00faa2004d5b1cf6232d31bd66e1bf2b86167fa-s600-c85.jpg\" alt=\"Appetites by Anthony Bourdain\" width=\"400\" height=\"505\" class=\"size-full wp-image-113082\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/9780062409959_custom-b00faa2004d5b1cf6232d31bd66e1bf2b86167fa-s600-c85.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/9780062409959_custom-b00faa2004d5b1cf6232d31bd66e1bf2b86167fa-s600-c85-160x202.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/9780062409959_custom-b00faa2004d5b1cf6232d31bd66e1bf2b86167fa-s600-c85-240x303.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/9780062409959_custom-b00faa2004d5b1cf6232d31bd66e1bf2b86167fa-s600-c85-375x473.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/books/titles/498575240/appetites\">Appetites\u003c/a>\u003cbr>by Anthony Bourdain\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On the cookbook \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I wanted it to be useful, approachable, reflective of the life I've lived over the past eight or nine years as a father, as opposed to a professional trying to dazzle with pretty pictures and food that's different than everybody else's. ... I wanted to make a beautiful cookbook, [a] creative-looking one, spoken in honest, straight-forward, casual terms that gives the reader reasonable expectations, that encourages them to organize themselves in the way that I've found to be useful as a professional.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's also reflective of, I think, age, and all those years in the restaurant business. Most chefs I know after work do not want to go out to dinner and be forced to think about what they're eating in a critical or analytical way. They want to experience food as they did as children, in an emotional way. The pure pleasure of that bowl of spicy noodles or even a bowl of soup that their mom gave them on a rainy day when they'd been bullied in school. I mean, that's a happy time when you can escape this world and lose yourself in food. These are recipes where hopefully, I try to evoke those feelings and emotions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On\u003c/strong>\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>\u003cstrong>starting out as a dishwasher and\u003c/strong>\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>\u003cstrong>what attracted him to the restaurant industry \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_113078\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/2016-bourdain-photo-4_-please-credit-cnn-a5ea0cb7a7a416b4f660ad237abcbc2e6cd57544-1020x765.jpg\" alt='Bourdain began his career as a dishwasher, and jokes that he learned \"all the most important lessons\" of his life scrubbing dishes.' width=\"640\" height=\"480\" class=\"size-large wp-image-113078\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/2016-bourdain-photo-4_-please-credit-cnn-a5ea0cb7a7a416b4f660ad237abcbc2e6cd57544-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/2016-bourdain-photo-4_-please-credit-cnn-a5ea0cb7a7a416b4f660ad237abcbc2e6cd57544-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/2016-bourdain-photo-4_-please-credit-cnn-a5ea0cb7a7a416b4f660ad237abcbc2e6cd57544-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/2016-bourdain-photo-4_-please-credit-cnn-a5ea0cb7a7a416b4f660ad237abcbc2e6cd57544-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/2016-bourdain-photo-4_-please-credit-cnn-a5ea0cb7a7a416b4f660ad237abcbc2e6cd57544-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/2016-bourdain-photo-4_-please-credit-cnn-a5ea0cb7a7a416b4f660ad237abcbc2e6cd57544-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/2016-bourdain-photo-4_-please-credit-cnn-a5ea0cb7a7a416b4f660ad237abcbc2e6cd57544-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/2016-bourdain-photo-4_-please-credit-cnn-a5ea0cb7a7a416b4f660ad237abcbc2e6cd57544-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/2016-bourdain-photo-4_-please-credit-cnn-a5ea0cb7a7a416b4f660ad237abcbc2e6cd57544-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bourdain began his career as a dishwasher, and jokes that he learned \"all the most important lessons\" of his life scrubbing dishes. \u003ccite>(David Scott Holloway/Ecco)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>I started working as a dishwasher one summer and it was really a big event for me, because up to that point I was lazy. I was the kid that if you hired me to shovel your walk in winter, I would really do a terrible job of it, probably find a way to weasel out. ...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The kitchen brigade [were] the first people whose respect I wanted, and the first time in my life that I went home feeling respect for myself. It was very hard work. You had to be there on time. There were certain absolutes, certain absolute rules, and for whatever reason I responded to that. ...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was a happy dishwasher. I jokingly say that I learned every important lesson, all the most important lessons of my life, as a dishwasher. In some ways that's true. Thomas Keller, the great chef, talks about ... the magic of discovering that you line the dirty dishes up, you push them in the machine, and they come out clean every time. There's something very comforting about that. ... I still like being at the bottom of a steep learning curve. I liked being the worst in the kitchen and struggling every day to earn respect and status within that hierarchy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On writing\u003c/strong>\u003cstrong> his first cookbook, \u003c/strong>\u003cstrong>\u003cem>Kitchen Confidential,\u003c/em>\u003c/strong>\u003cstrong>\u003cem> \u003c/em>\u003c/strong>\u003cstrong>and finding his writing voice\u003cem>\u003c/em>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I think, to a great extent, the reason \u003cem>Kitchen Confidential\u003c/em> sounds like it does is I just didn't have the luxury or the burden of a lot of time to sit around and contemplate the mysteries of the universe. I had to wake up at 5 o'clock in the morning, write for an hour and a half, and then I had to go to work to a real job. ...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was liberating in the sense that I had no time to think about what I was writing. I certainly had no customer or reader in mind, because I was quite sure no one would ever read it. That was in many ways a very liberating place to be. I've kind of tried to stick with that business model since.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On\u003c/strong>\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>\u003cstrong>twice\u003c/strong>\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>\u003cstrong>being given the honor to kill a pig for a village feast in Borneo \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That first time I don't think I had ever killed an animal before. I had been ordering them up as a chef over the phone, so I was culpable in the death of many animals. But here I was being asked to physically plunge a spear into the heart of a pig. It seemed to me the height of hypocrisy, however uncomfortable I might've been with that, to put it off on somebody else. I had been responsible for the death of many animals. Here I'm being asked, I didn't want to let the team down. I didn't want to dishonor the village or embarrass anyone.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The first time was very, very, very, very difficult. My camera guys almost passed out, it was certainly very difficult for me. The second time, as much as I'd like to say that it was still really hard, and I think I said in the voiceover, I don't know what it says about me, probably something very bad, that I have become — I have changed over time. I'd like to think in good ways, for the most part, but I've also become more callous. I've become able to plunge a spear into the heart of a screaming pig and live with that much more comfortably than I did the first time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On finding great neighborhood places and hearing reactions from locals \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ideally I'll go to a place, like I'll find a little bar in Rio, let's say, some little local place that perfectly expresses the neighborhood. It's not a tourist-friendly place, for lack of a better word, I hate this word but I'll use it anyway — \"authentic.\" I'll feature that on the show.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The response I'm looking for is to hear from someone from the neighborhood saying, \"How did you ever find that place? I thought only we knew about it. It's truly a place that we love and is reflective of our culture and our neighborhood.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But on the other hand, it's kind of a destructive process because if I name the place — and I don't always when it's a place like that — I change it. The next time I go back, there's tourists. There're people who've seen it on the show. Then I might hear from the same person from that neighborhood saying: \"You ruined my favorite bar!\" All the regular customers have run away and it's filled with tourists in ugly T-shirts and flip-flops.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On food he hesitates to eat \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If freshness and hygiene is a question, generally it's tribal situations that are problematic, where the whole tribe, the chief is offering you something that's what they have. Often they don't have refrigeration, it's often old — their tolerance for meat that's even spoiled is higher than [that of] my relatively sensitive stomach. Often these dishes are eaten in one large bowl with the whole tribe jamming their fingers in. So yeah, rotten food, food that's clearly not clean, water that's clearly not good — those are a challenge.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On the flavor spectrum, I'm pretty good with just about everything. ... When you get to, like, rotten shark in Iceland, I mean I could do it, but I'd rather not. Won't be doing that again. It's unpleasant but it's not the end of the world. I don't know, for sheer soul-destroying misery, if you're talking about a bite of food that just makes me question the future of the human race and sends me into a spiral of depression, I think eating an airport Johnny Rockets pretty much would be the nadir.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On getting sick \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I've lost three days of work in 16 years ... only three days that I've been down for the count and confined to bed and desperately, horribly ill. Generally speaking, if it's, like, a street-food stall that's busy, even if it looks dirty as hell, if there are a lot of locals there and they're eating and they're happy, my crew will always eat at that place. Eating a Caesar salad at the major chain hotel in Central Africa or the Middle East, that's where you run into trouble, stomach-wise, generally.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On losing interest in fine dining, because of his love of street food \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'm happiest experiencing food in the most purely emotional way. And it's true of most of my chef friends as well. When it's, like, street food or a one-chef, one-dish operation, or somebody who's just really, really good at one or two or three things that they've been doing for a very long time, that's very reflective of their ethnicity or their culture or their nationality — those are the things that just make me happy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'm spoiled, like a lot of fellow chefs. We get a lot of fine wines and dinners thrown our way and you do reach this enviable point where you just don't want to sit there for four hours, with course after course after course. It's too much, first of all. It doesn't feel good at the end of that time, and it's not interesting. And if the waiter is taking 10 minutes to describe each dish [and] it'll only take you three to eat it, something's really wrong. I think people lose sight of the fact that chefs should be ultimately in the pleasure business, not in the look-at-me business. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "How Lipton Built An Empire By Selling 'Farm To Table' Tea",
"title": "How Lipton Built An Empire By Selling 'Farm To Table' Tea",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>Lipton tea can be found in almost any grocery store, and the brand is just about synonymous with industrial Big Tea. So tea enthusiasts who sniff at the familiar square bags might be surprised that once upon a time, Lipton was known as the \"farm to table\" of the tea world. In fact, it was sold with the catchy slogan \"direct from tea garden to tea pot.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So how did Thomas Lipton build this tea empire?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lipton was already a self-made millionaire before he ever entered the tea trade. He was the Scottish-born son of an Irish grocer, and in Glasgow in 1871, he founded the first of a successful chain of grocery stores that made him a wealthy man by age 40.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But, in the British working classes, he saw an opportunity to get even richer. In the latter half of the 1800s, tea had become a popular drink among all British classes, but it was still somewhat of a household luxury. Shops were selling loose leaf tea for the equivalent at the time of 50 cents a pound, an amount he knew was beyond the means of a working-class family living on $10 per week. Lipton saw an opening: Why not cut out the middleman?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lipton thought he could slash the retail price of tea to an affordable 30 cents a pound — and still make a handsome profit for himself. At the time, tea brokers were making the largest returns. To lower the price, he would need to stop buying from them and grow his own tea. And that meant he needed land - a lot of it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To thwart potential competitors, he booked a \"vacation\" to Australia, but secretly got off in Ceylon, now known as Sri Lanka.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ceylon had been one of the world's greatest coffee producers. But in the late 1860s, a fungus arrived that obliterated that industry. Some planters fled, but others turned to tea, which proved to be an excellent replacement.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_112900\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/lipton-3_enl-f79258c55c04bfbf61ed6dce92cb3c38ce601aa6.jpg\" alt=\"Baskets full of fresh tea leaves are sorted at a Lipton tea plantation in Ceylon circa 1900.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1520\" class=\"size-full wp-image-112900\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/lipton-3_enl-f79258c55c04bfbf61ed6dce92cb3c38ce601aa6.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/lipton-3_enl-f79258c55c04bfbf61ed6dce92cb3c38ce601aa6-160x122.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/lipton-3_enl-f79258c55c04bfbf61ed6dce92cb3c38ce601aa6-800x608.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/lipton-3_enl-f79258c55c04bfbf61ed6dce92cb3c38ce601aa6-768x584.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/lipton-3_enl-f79258c55c04bfbf61ed6dce92cb3c38ce601aa6-1020x775.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/lipton-3_enl-f79258c55c04bfbf61ed6dce92cb3c38ce601aa6-1180x897.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/lipton-3_enl-f79258c55c04bfbf61ed6dce92cb3c38ce601aa6-960x730.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/lipton-3_enl-f79258c55c04bfbf61ed6dce92cb3c38ce601aa6-240x182.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/lipton-3_enl-f79258c55c04bfbf61ed6dce92cb3c38ce601aa6-375x285.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/lipton-3_enl-f79258c55c04bfbf61ed6dce92cb3c38ce601aa6-520x395.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Baskets full of fresh tea leaves are sorted at a Lipton tea plantation in Ceylon circa 1900. \u003ccite>( General Photographic Agency/Getty Images)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Tea grown in the island's central highlands had a rich, mellow flavor, bright and golden in the cup, and was proving popular at Mincing Lane, the London tea auction house. By the time Lipton arrived in June 1890, Ceylon was already exporting about 45 million pounds of tea per year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the island was still reeling from the collapse of the coffee industry, and land was going for fire-sale prices.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You can buy estates here for a song,\" Lipton's agent told him.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lipton snapped up five estates, and soon had about a dozen. He planted his own tea and installed machinery that could handle higher production.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_112906\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 677px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/lipton-2_enl-171222769a8ec77288c95c4164f58da97fe142f6-s1400.jpg\" alt=\"A Lipton ad from a Canadian grocer publication in 1896 boasts that the company's tea comes "direct from the tea gardens." Lipton traded on the idea that its tea was grown on the company's own estates. But as its tea grew in popularity, Lipton had to rely on outside brokers to meet demand.\" width=\"677\" height=\"891\" class=\"size-full wp-image-112906\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/lipton-2_enl-171222769a8ec77288c95c4164f58da97fe142f6-s1400.jpg 677w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/lipton-2_enl-171222769a8ec77288c95c4164f58da97fe142f6-s1400-160x211.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/lipton-2_enl-171222769a8ec77288c95c4164f58da97fe142f6-s1400-240x316.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/lipton-2_enl-171222769a8ec77288c95c4164f58da97fe142f6-s1400-375x494.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/lipton-2_enl-171222769a8ec77288c95c4164f58da97fe142f6-s1400-520x684.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 677px) 100vw, 677px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A Lipton ad from a Canadian grocer publication in 1896 boasts that the company's tea comes \"direct from the tea gardens.\" Lipton traded on the idea that its tea was grown on the company's own estates. But as its tea grew in popularity, Lipton had to rely on outside brokers to meet demand. \u003ccite>(Internet Archive Book Images/Flickr)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Before Lipton, shop assistants measured tea by weight from wooden chests and folded it into paper packages. Lipton had the novel idea to sell it in premeasured packets of a quarter, half, and full pound. Standardization would be easier for shops to handle. Another big advantage: It would dispel any customer doubt on the accuracy of a shop's scale or the provenance of the tea.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"He really developed the first consistent brand of tea that was the same from package to package, from location to location, every time you bought it,\" Michael D'Antonio, author of \u003cem>A Full Cup: Sir Thomas Lipton's Extraordinary Life and His Quest for the America's Cup, \u003c/em>\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=128568385\">\u003cem>told NPR\u003c/em>\u003c/a> in 2010\u003c/em>\u003cem>. \u003c/em>\"And he priced it at half the price of other manufacturers, so it was a runaway hit.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lipton became known for selling reliable product at affordable prices. Another advantage: Lipton could advertise his company directly on the packets. Initially they bore the image of a Tamil tea plucker and the aforementioned slogan: \"Direct from tea garden to tea pot.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The packets were so successful that Lipton began selling his tea not just in his own shops, but through other retailers — in the U.K. and beyond. In 1893, he headed to the World's Fair in Chicago, where he sold 1 million packets of Ceylon tea.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Soon, Lipton's bright yellow label with its red shield was everywhere, and his tea became popular in America as well as the U.K. But that popularity meant that Lipton could no longer grow all the tea he needed to meet demand. He was forced to buy from brokers until only a small part of the tea came from his own estates.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"At a time when his dynamic sales and advertising methods, especially in the U.K. and America, were building up a turnover of millions of pounds of tea per year,\" D.M. Forrest noted in his authoritative \u003cem>A Hundred Years of Ceylon Tea: 1867-1967\u003c/em>, \"his 3,000 acres or so could not have supplied a tenth of his needs and he was soon buying and blending where and how he could, like all his major competitors.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the \"garden to teapot\" public perception was already well-established: Lipton equaled tea, and Ceylon was its home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lipton \"gave, or rather did not discourage, the impression that all his teas came from his own gardens,\" wrote Alec Waugh in \u003cem>Lipton: A Centennial Biography\u003c/em>. But if that were true, \"he would have needed to own half the island.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lipton was a showman, and his commercial and marketing savvy drove his success. A master of the memorable stunt, in his early years, he had pigs paraded through the streets of Glasgow to his shop to underscore the farm freshness of his bacon. He heralded the first arrival of Ceylon tea with a brass band and bagpipe parade and for a time, printed Lipton Currency Notes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lipton is now a brand belonging to the colossal British-Dutch multinational Unilever. Its tea is sold in more than 150 countries. While the company does buy tea from Sri Lanka, it no longer owns any of its own gardens on the island. These were sold off — but not until after Lipton's death.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Tea Tuesdays is an occasional series exploring the science, history, culture and economics of this ancient brewed beverage.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.jeff-koehler.com/\">Jeff Koehler\u003c/a> \u003cem>is the author of \u003c/em>Darjeeling: The Colorful History and Precarious Fate of the World's Greatest Tea\u003cem>, which won the 2016 IACP award for literary food writing. Follow him on Twitter @koehlercooks.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2016 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Lipton is just about synonymous with industrial Big Tea these days. So you might be surprised to learn that once upon a time, Lipton was known for selling tea direct from its own gardens.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Lipton tea can be found in almost any grocery store, and the brand is just about synonymous with industrial Big Tea. So tea enthusiasts who sniff at the familiar square bags might be surprised that once upon a time, Lipton was known as the \"farm to table\" of the tea world. In fact, it was sold with the catchy slogan \"direct from tea garden to tea pot.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So how did Thomas Lipton build this tea empire?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lipton was already a self-made millionaire before he ever entered the tea trade. He was the Scottish-born son of an Irish grocer, and in Glasgow in 1871, he founded the first of a successful chain of grocery stores that made him a wealthy man by age 40.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But, in the British working classes, he saw an opportunity to get even richer. In the latter half of the 1800s, tea had become a popular drink among all British classes, but it was still somewhat of a household luxury. Shops were selling loose leaf tea for the equivalent at the time of 50 cents a pound, an amount he knew was beyond the means of a working-class family living on $10 per week. Lipton saw an opening: Why not cut out the middleman?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lipton thought he could slash the retail price of tea to an affordable 30 cents a pound — and still make a handsome profit for himself. At the time, tea brokers were making the largest returns. To lower the price, he would need to stop buying from them and grow his own tea. And that meant he needed land - a lot of it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To thwart potential competitors, he booked a \"vacation\" to Australia, but secretly got off in Ceylon, now known as Sri Lanka.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ceylon had been one of the world's greatest coffee producers. But in the late 1860s, a fungus arrived that obliterated that industry. Some planters fled, but others turned to tea, which proved to be an excellent replacement.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_112900\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/lipton-3_enl-f79258c55c04bfbf61ed6dce92cb3c38ce601aa6.jpg\" alt=\"Baskets full of fresh tea leaves are sorted at a Lipton tea plantation in Ceylon circa 1900.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1520\" class=\"size-full wp-image-112900\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/lipton-3_enl-f79258c55c04bfbf61ed6dce92cb3c38ce601aa6.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/lipton-3_enl-f79258c55c04bfbf61ed6dce92cb3c38ce601aa6-160x122.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/lipton-3_enl-f79258c55c04bfbf61ed6dce92cb3c38ce601aa6-800x608.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/lipton-3_enl-f79258c55c04bfbf61ed6dce92cb3c38ce601aa6-768x584.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/lipton-3_enl-f79258c55c04bfbf61ed6dce92cb3c38ce601aa6-1020x775.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/lipton-3_enl-f79258c55c04bfbf61ed6dce92cb3c38ce601aa6-1180x897.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/lipton-3_enl-f79258c55c04bfbf61ed6dce92cb3c38ce601aa6-960x730.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/lipton-3_enl-f79258c55c04bfbf61ed6dce92cb3c38ce601aa6-240x182.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/lipton-3_enl-f79258c55c04bfbf61ed6dce92cb3c38ce601aa6-375x285.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/lipton-3_enl-f79258c55c04bfbf61ed6dce92cb3c38ce601aa6-520x395.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Baskets full of fresh tea leaves are sorted at a Lipton tea plantation in Ceylon circa 1900. \u003ccite>( General Photographic Agency/Getty Images)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Tea grown in the island's central highlands had a rich, mellow flavor, bright and golden in the cup, and was proving popular at Mincing Lane, the London tea auction house. By the time Lipton arrived in June 1890, Ceylon was already exporting about 45 million pounds of tea per year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the island was still reeling from the collapse of the coffee industry, and land was going for fire-sale prices.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You can buy estates here for a song,\" Lipton's agent told him.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lipton snapped up five estates, and soon had about a dozen. He planted his own tea and installed machinery that could handle higher production.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_112906\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 677px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/lipton-2_enl-171222769a8ec77288c95c4164f58da97fe142f6-s1400.jpg\" alt=\"A Lipton ad from a Canadian grocer publication in 1896 boasts that the company's tea comes "direct from the tea gardens." Lipton traded on the idea that its tea was grown on the company's own estates. But as its tea grew in popularity, Lipton had to rely on outside brokers to meet demand.\" width=\"677\" height=\"891\" class=\"size-full wp-image-112906\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/lipton-2_enl-171222769a8ec77288c95c4164f58da97fe142f6-s1400.jpg 677w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/lipton-2_enl-171222769a8ec77288c95c4164f58da97fe142f6-s1400-160x211.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/lipton-2_enl-171222769a8ec77288c95c4164f58da97fe142f6-s1400-240x316.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/lipton-2_enl-171222769a8ec77288c95c4164f58da97fe142f6-s1400-375x494.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/lipton-2_enl-171222769a8ec77288c95c4164f58da97fe142f6-s1400-520x684.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 677px) 100vw, 677px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A Lipton ad from a Canadian grocer publication in 1896 boasts that the company's tea comes \"direct from the tea gardens.\" Lipton traded on the idea that its tea was grown on the company's own estates. But as its tea grew in popularity, Lipton had to rely on outside brokers to meet demand. \u003ccite>(Internet Archive Book Images/Flickr)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Before Lipton, shop assistants measured tea by weight from wooden chests and folded it into paper packages. Lipton had the novel idea to sell it in premeasured packets of a quarter, half, and full pound. Standardization would be easier for shops to handle. Another big advantage: It would dispel any customer doubt on the accuracy of a shop's scale or the provenance of the tea.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"He really developed the first consistent brand of tea that was the same from package to package, from location to location, every time you bought it,\" Michael D'Antonio, author of \u003cem>A Full Cup: Sir Thomas Lipton's Extraordinary Life and His Quest for the America's Cup, \u003c/em>\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=128568385\">\u003cem>told NPR\u003c/em>\u003c/a> in 2010\u003c/em>\u003cem>. \u003c/em>\"And he priced it at half the price of other manufacturers, so it was a runaway hit.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lipton became known for selling reliable product at affordable prices. Another advantage: Lipton could advertise his company directly on the packets. Initially they bore the image of a Tamil tea plucker and the aforementioned slogan: \"Direct from tea garden to tea pot.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The packets were so successful that Lipton began selling his tea not just in his own shops, but through other retailers — in the U.K. and beyond. In 1893, he headed to the World's Fair in Chicago, where he sold 1 million packets of Ceylon tea.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Soon, Lipton's bright yellow label with its red shield was everywhere, and his tea became popular in America as well as the U.K. But that popularity meant that Lipton could no longer grow all the tea he needed to meet demand. He was forced to buy from brokers until only a small part of the tea came from his own estates.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"At a time when his dynamic sales and advertising methods, especially in the U.K. and America, were building up a turnover of millions of pounds of tea per year,\" D.M. Forrest noted in his authoritative \u003cem>A Hundred Years of Ceylon Tea: 1867-1967\u003c/em>, \"his 3,000 acres or so could not have supplied a tenth of his needs and he was soon buying and blending where and how he could, like all his major competitors.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the \"garden to teapot\" public perception was already well-established: Lipton equaled tea, and Ceylon was its home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lipton \"gave, or rather did not discourage, the impression that all his teas came from his own gardens,\" wrote Alec Waugh in \u003cem>Lipton: A Centennial Biography\u003c/em>. But if that were true, \"he would have needed to own half the island.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lipton was a showman, and his commercial and marketing savvy drove his success. A master of the memorable stunt, in his early years, he had pigs paraded through the streets of Glasgow to his shop to underscore the farm freshness of his bacon. He heralded the first arrival of Ceylon tea with a brass band and bagpipe parade and for a time, printed Lipton Currency Notes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lipton is now a brand belonging to the colossal British-Dutch multinational Unilever. Its tea is sold in more than 150 countries. While the company does buy tea from Sri Lanka, it no longer owns any of its own gardens on the island. These were sold off — but not until after Lipton's death.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Tea Tuesdays is an occasional series exploring the science, history, culture and economics of this ancient brewed beverage.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.jeff-koehler.com/\">Jeff Koehler\u003c/a> \u003cem>is the author of \u003c/em>Darjeeling: The Colorful History and Precarious Fate of the World's Greatest Tea\u003cem>, which won the 2016 IACP award for literary food writing. Follow him on Twitter @koehlercooks.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "African-American Museum Cafe Serves Up Black History With Every Forkful",
"title": "African-American Museum Cafe Serves Up Black History With Every Forkful",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>The restaurant inside the new National Museum of African American History and Culture offers food that satisfies the hunger — and a space that satisfies the mind.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sweet Home Cafe has four serving stations, each representing a region of the United States: the North States, Western Range, Agriculture South and Creole Coast.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The idea is to expand people's understanding of just how much African-Americans have contributed to our nation's culinary heritage, says Joanne Hyppolite, curator for the cultural expressions exhibits that feature foodways, culture and cuisine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"People think that African-Americans only created soul food,\" Hyppolite says. But in fact, she says, black folks \"had a long presence in kitchens all over the United States — whether that was in a railroad car, on ranches in the West, in wealthy people's homes throughout the North and plantations to the South. They were there contributing to all types of American cuisine.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[gallery type=\"slideshow\" size=\"full\" link=\"none\" ids=\"112607,112606,112605,112604,112603,112602,112601,112600,112599\"]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hyppolite meets me for lunch at Sweet Home Cafe. She orders from the North States — pan-roasted oysters served in a rich red sauce that starts with shallots and butter, deglazed with white wine and reduced with chili sauce and cream. The dish was inspired by Thomas Downing — the son of freed slaves who became known as the \"oyster king of New York.\" Downing used his basement as a stop in the Underground Railroad.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_112612\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/2016-09-14-nmaahc-food-museum-0021edit_custom-05e45950c2eae13e4e8876cbe37cb69ebf97aa9a-s800-c85.jpg\" alt=\"Sweet Home Cafe's dining area feels like a gallery. Images and words that tell of African-Americans' relationship with food surround you. A black-and-white photograph covers an entire wall. The subject: the Greensboro Four, sitting in protest of segregation at a Woolworth's lunch counter in 1960.\" width=\"800\" height=\"521\" class=\"size-full wp-image-112612\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/2016-09-14-nmaahc-food-museum-0021edit_custom-05e45950c2eae13e4e8876cbe37cb69ebf97aa9a-s800-c85.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/2016-09-14-nmaahc-food-museum-0021edit_custom-05e45950c2eae13e4e8876cbe37cb69ebf97aa9a-s800-c85-400x261.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/2016-09-14-nmaahc-food-museum-0021edit_custom-05e45950c2eae13e4e8876cbe37cb69ebf97aa9a-s800-c85-768x500.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sweet Home Cafe's dining area feels like a gallery. Images and words that tell of African-Americans' relationship with food surround you. A black-and-white photograph covers an entire wall. The subject: the Greensboro Four, sitting in protest of segregation at a Woolworth's lunch counter in 1960. \u003ccite>(Ariel Zambelich/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>At the Agricultural South station, Shari Hills and Keena Lewis, both young residents of Washington, D.C., who originally hail from the South, choose the fried chicken and mac 'n' cheese — which Hills calls \"the bomb.\" When asked how the food compares to what they've had back home, the two laugh. \"Back home, it's probably a little more salt-seasoned,\" Hills says with a giggle.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Creole Coast serves up dishes like duck, andouille sausage and crawfish gumbo. Visiting from Durham, N.C., Marie Shaw Simmons has a taste for the catfish po' boy and watermelon and tomato salad. \"Isn't it beautiful?\" Simmons says. \"It reminds me of home.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Her friend, Anita Neville, who also got the catfish, takes a picture to send to her sister so that \"she can be a little envious ... and also glad for me.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the Western Range station, many dishes have Native American and Mexican influences, such as barbecued buffalo brisket and black-eyed peas empanadas. After the Civil War, many freed slaves moved West to take up jobs as ranch hands and cowboys. In cattle country, beef replaced pork in their cooking. \"Son of a Gun Stew\" — traditionally made with innards — gets a modern twist with braised short beef, turnips, tomato, potato, leeks and sun-dried tomato.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sweet Home Cafe doesn't just offer food that people already know. It wants to introduce dishes and educate those unfamiliar to African-American cuisine, like Art Bushkin from Virginia.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"First of all, I don't totally know what's on my plate,\" Bushkin tells me. (It was loaded with fried chicken, collards and a Gullah-style version of the rice and beans dish known as Hoppin' John.) \"We don't recognize the names, but you can't go wrong. It's just very different and very wonderful,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It took about two years for a committee of curators, chefs and historians to decided on the cafe concept, design and menu. Jessica Harris, culinary historian and author, led the project. After looking at the success of the Mitsitam Cafe at the National Museum of the American Indian, the first in the Smithsonian family to turn a cafeteria into a history lesson, Harris became the force behind the regional sections at Sweet Home Cafe.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_112609\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2921px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/2016-09-14-nmaahc-food-museum-0120edit_custom-d6cf3895ac865a89044dee9293851e763734755d.jpg\" alt=\"Sweet Home Cafe executive chef Jerome Grant\" width=\"2921\" height=\"1954\" class=\"size-full wp-image-112609\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/2016-09-14-nmaahc-food-museum-0120edit_custom-d6cf3895ac865a89044dee9293851e763734755d.jpg 2921w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/2016-09-14-nmaahc-food-museum-0120edit_custom-d6cf3895ac865a89044dee9293851e763734755d-400x268.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/2016-09-14-nmaahc-food-museum-0120edit_custom-d6cf3895ac865a89044dee9293851e763734755d-800x535.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/2016-09-14-nmaahc-food-museum-0120edit_custom-d6cf3895ac865a89044dee9293851e763734755d-768x514.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/2016-09-14-nmaahc-food-museum-0120edit_custom-d6cf3895ac865a89044dee9293851e763734755d-1440x963.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/2016-09-14-nmaahc-food-museum-0120edit_custom-d6cf3895ac865a89044dee9293851e763734755d-1180x789.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/2016-09-14-nmaahc-food-museum-0120edit_custom-d6cf3895ac865a89044dee9293851e763734755d-960x642.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2921px) 100vw, 2921px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sweet Home Cafe executive chef Jerome Grant \u003ccite>(Ariel Zambelich/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The Smithsonian works with Thomas Hospitality, the largest minority-owned food service company, to help run the kitchen smoothly.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Supervising chef Albert Lukas of Restaurant Associates, another Smithsonian partner in food services, traveled to places like South Carolina to dig into Southern cooking. Executive chef Jerome Grant, who previously ran the Mitsitam Cafe, hung out with his chef friends in New York to see how they put their twists on classic dishes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sweet Home Cafe's dining area feels like a gallery. Images and words that tell of African-Americans' relationship with food surround you. A black-and-white photograph covers an entire wall. The subject: the Greensboro Four, sitting in protest of segregation at a Woolworth's lunch counter in 1960.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Carla Hall, chef, television personality and a D.C. resident, is the cafe's culinary ambassador.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I'm really the person who gets people excited,\" Hall says while on break from her daily shoot at ABC's \u003cem>The Chew\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She says she wants people to talk about their museum experience in the cafe as if they're \"around the kitchen table at home, where you feel comfortable and safe as a family.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Leon Hill and Tori Richardson-Hill of Minnesota did just that. \"We talked about the eating experience of black people or people of color,\" Richardson-Hill says. At the table were her two adult children, both college students who'd joined their family for this museum visit. \"This was a very smart move on the museum's part to have this as part of the museum experience.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2016 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "The restaurant inside the new National Museum of African American History and Culture offers a menu designed to showcase the breadth of black contributions to our nation's cuisine.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>The restaurant inside the new National Museum of African American History and Culture offers food that satisfies the hunger — and a space that satisfies the mind.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sweet Home Cafe has four serving stations, each representing a region of the United States: the North States, Western Range, Agriculture South and Creole Coast.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The idea is to expand people's understanding of just how much African-Americans have contributed to our nation's culinary heritage, says Joanne Hyppolite, curator for the cultural expressions exhibits that feature foodways, culture and cuisine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"People think that African-Americans only created soul food,\" Hyppolite says. But in fact, she says, black folks \"had a long presence in kitchens all over the United States — whether that was in a railroad car, on ranches in the West, in wealthy people's homes throughout the North and plantations to the South. They were there contributing to all types of American cuisine.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hyppolite meets me for lunch at Sweet Home Cafe. She orders from the North States — pan-roasted oysters served in a rich red sauce that starts with shallots and butter, deglazed with white wine and reduced with chili sauce and cream. The dish was inspired by Thomas Downing — the son of freed slaves who became known as the \"oyster king of New York.\" Downing used his basement as a stop in the Underground Railroad.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_112612\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/2016-09-14-nmaahc-food-museum-0021edit_custom-05e45950c2eae13e4e8876cbe37cb69ebf97aa9a-s800-c85.jpg\" alt=\"Sweet Home Cafe's dining area feels like a gallery. Images and words that tell of African-Americans' relationship with food surround you. A black-and-white photograph covers an entire wall. The subject: the Greensboro Four, sitting in protest of segregation at a Woolworth's lunch counter in 1960.\" width=\"800\" height=\"521\" class=\"size-full wp-image-112612\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/2016-09-14-nmaahc-food-museum-0021edit_custom-05e45950c2eae13e4e8876cbe37cb69ebf97aa9a-s800-c85.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/2016-09-14-nmaahc-food-museum-0021edit_custom-05e45950c2eae13e4e8876cbe37cb69ebf97aa9a-s800-c85-400x261.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/2016-09-14-nmaahc-food-museum-0021edit_custom-05e45950c2eae13e4e8876cbe37cb69ebf97aa9a-s800-c85-768x500.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sweet Home Cafe's dining area feels like a gallery. Images and words that tell of African-Americans' relationship with food surround you. A black-and-white photograph covers an entire wall. The subject: the Greensboro Four, sitting in protest of segregation at a Woolworth's lunch counter in 1960. \u003ccite>(Ariel Zambelich/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>At the Agricultural South station, Shari Hills and Keena Lewis, both young residents of Washington, D.C., who originally hail from the South, choose the fried chicken and mac 'n' cheese — which Hills calls \"the bomb.\" When asked how the food compares to what they've had back home, the two laugh. \"Back home, it's probably a little more salt-seasoned,\" Hills says with a giggle.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Creole Coast serves up dishes like duck, andouille sausage and crawfish gumbo. Visiting from Durham, N.C., Marie Shaw Simmons has a taste for the catfish po' boy and watermelon and tomato salad. \"Isn't it beautiful?\" Simmons says. \"It reminds me of home.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Her friend, Anita Neville, who also got the catfish, takes a picture to send to her sister so that \"she can be a little envious ... and also glad for me.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the Western Range station, many dishes have Native American and Mexican influences, such as barbecued buffalo brisket and black-eyed peas empanadas. After the Civil War, many freed slaves moved West to take up jobs as ranch hands and cowboys. In cattle country, beef replaced pork in their cooking. \"Son of a Gun Stew\" — traditionally made with innards — gets a modern twist with braised short beef, turnips, tomato, potato, leeks and sun-dried tomato.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sweet Home Cafe doesn't just offer food that people already know. It wants to introduce dishes and educate those unfamiliar to African-American cuisine, like Art Bushkin from Virginia.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"First of all, I don't totally know what's on my plate,\" Bushkin tells me. (It was loaded with fried chicken, collards and a Gullah-style version of the rice and beans dish known as Hoppin' John.) \"We don't recognize the names, but you can't go wrong. It's just very different and very wonderful,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It took about two years for a committee of curators, chefs and historians to decided on the cafe concept, design and menu. Jessica Harris, culinary historian and author, led the project. After looking at the success of the Mitsitam Cafe at the National Museum of the American Indian, the first in the Smithsonian family to turn a cafeteria into a history lesson, Harris became the force behind the regional sections at Sweet Home Cafe.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_112609\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2921px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/2016-09-14-nmaahc-food-museum-0120edit_custom-d6cf3895ac865a89044dee9293851e763734755d.jpg\" alt=\"Sweet Home Cafe executive chef Jerome Grant\" width=\"2921\" height=\"1954\" class=\"size-full wp-image-112609\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/2016-09-14-nmaahc-food-museum-0120edit_custom-d6cf3895ac865a89044dee9293851e763734755d.jpg 2921w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/2016-09-14-nmaahc-food-museum-0120edit_custom-d6cf3895ac865a89044dee9293851e763734755d-400x268.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/2016-09-14-nmaahc-food-museum-0120edit_custom-d6cf3895ac865a89044dee9293851e763734755d-800x535.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/2016-09-14-nmaahc-food-museum-0120edit_custom-d6cf3895ac865a89044dee9293851e763734755d-768x514.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/2016-09-14-nmaahc-food-museum-0120edit_custom-d6cf3895ac865a89044dee9293851e763734755d-1440x963.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/2016-09-14-nmaahc-food-museum-0120edit_custom-d6cf3895ac865a89044dee9293851e763734755d-1180x789.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/2016-09-14-nmaahc-food-museum-0120edit_custom-d6cf3895ac865a89044dee9293851e763734755d-960x642.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2921px) 100vw, 2921px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sweet Home Cafe executive chef Jerome Grant \u003ccite>(Ariel Zambelich/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The Smithsonian works with Thomas Hospitality, the largest minority-owned food service company, to help run the kitchen smoothly.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Supervising chef Albert Lukas of Restaurant Associates, another Smithsonian partner in food services, traveled to places like South Carolina to dig into Southern cooking. Executive chef Jerome Grant, who previously ran the Mitsitam Cafe, hung out with his chef friends in New York to see how they put their twists on classic dishes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sweet Home Cafe's dining area feels like a gallery. Images and words that tell of African-Americans' relationship with food surround you. A black-and-white photograph covers an entire wall. The subject: the Greensboro Four, sitting in protest of segregation at a Woolworth's lunch counter in 1960.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Carla Hall, chef, television personality and a D.C. resident, is the cafe's culinary ambassador.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I'm really the person who gets people excited,\" Hall says while on break from her daily shoot at ABC's \u003cem>The Chew\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She says she wants people to talk about their museum experience in the cafe as if they're \"around the kitchen table at home, where you feel comfortable and safe as a family.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Leon Hill and Tori Richardson-Hill of Minnesota did just that. \"We talked about the eating experience of black people or people of color,\" Richardson-Hill says. At the table were her two adult children, both college students who'd joined their family for this museum visit. \"This was a very smart move on the museum's part to have this as part of the museum experience.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2016 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/global-news-podcast/id135067274?mt=2",
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"rss": "https://podcasts.files.bbci.co.uk/p02nq0gn.rss"
}
},
"californiareport": {
"id": "californiareport",
"title": "The California Report",
"tagline": "California, day by day",
"info": "KQED’s statewide radio news program providing daily coverage of issues, trends and public policy decisions.",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/The-California-Report-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "/californiareport",
"meta": {
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"source": "kqed",
"order": 8
},
"link": "/californiareport",
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"amazon": "https://music.amazon.com/podcasts/26099305-72af-4542-9dde-ac1807fe36d5/kqed-s-the-california-report",
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}
},
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"id": "californiareportmagazine",
"title": "The California Report Magazine",
"tagline": "Your state, your stories",
"info": "Every week, The California Report Magazine takes you on a road trip for the ears: to visit the places and meet the people who make California unique. The in-depth storytelling podcast from the California Report.",
"airtime": "FRI 4:30pm-5pm, 6:30pm-7pm, 11pm-11:30pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/The-California-Report-Magazine-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "/californiareportmagazine",
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"order": 10
},
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM3NjkwNjk1OTAz",
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}
},
"city-arts": {
"id": "city-arts",
"title": "City Arts & Lectures",
"info": "A one-hour radio program to hear celebrated writers, artists and thinkers address contemporary ideas and values, often discussing the creative process. Please note: tapes or transcripts are not available",
"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/05/cityartsandlecture-300x300.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.cityarts.net/",
"airtime": "SUN 1pm-2pm, TUE 10pm, WED 1am",
"meta": {
"site": "news",
"source": "City Arts & Lectures"
},
"link": "https://www.cityarts.net",
"subscribe": {
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"rss": "https://www.cityarts.net/feed/"
}
},
"closealltabs": {
"id": "closealltabs",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "/podcasts/closealltabs",
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"order": 1
},
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"title": "Code Switch / Life Kit",
"info": "\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em>, which listeners will hear in the first part of the hour, has fearless and much-needed conversations about race. Hosted by journalists of color, the show tackles the subject of race head-on, exploring how it impacts every part of society — from politics and pop culture to history, sports and more.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em>, which will be in the second part of the hour, guides you through spaces and feelings no one prepares you for — from finances to mental health, from workplace microaggressions to imposter syndrome, from relationships to parenting. The show features experts with real world experience and shares their knowledge. Because everyone needs a little help being human.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/510312/codeswitch\">\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/lifekit\">\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />",
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"meta": {
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"id": "commonwealth-club",
"title": "Commonwealth Club of California Podcast",
"info": "The Commonwealth Club of California is the nation's oldest and largest public affairs forum. As a non-partisan forum, The Club brings to the public airwaves diverse viewpoints on important topics. The Club's weekly radio broadcast - the oldest in the U.S., dating back to 1924 - is carried across the nation on public radio stations and is now podcasting. Our website archive features audio of our recent programs, as well as selected speeches from our long and distinguished history. This podcast feed is usually updated twice a week and is always un-edited.",
"airtime": "THU 10pm, FRI 1am",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Commonwealth-Club-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
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"meta": {
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"source": "Commonwealth Club of California"
},
"link": "/radio/program/commonwealth-club",
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cDovL3d3dy5jb21tb253ZWFsdGhjbHViLm9yZy9hdWRpby9wb2RjYXN0L3dlZWtseS54bWw",
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}
},
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"id": "forum",
"title": "Forum",
"tagline": "The conversation starts here",
"info": "KQED’s live call-in program discussing local, state, national and international issues, as well as in-depth interviews.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 9am-11am, 10pm-11pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Forum-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
"imageAlt": "KQED Forum with Mina Kim and Alexis Madrigal",
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"meta": {
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"source": "kqed",
"order": 9
},
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM5NTU3MzgxNjMz",
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"id": "freakonomics-radio",
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"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/05/freakonomicsRadio.png",
"officialWebsiteLink": "http://freakonomics.com/",
"airtime": "SUN 1am-2am, SAT 3pm-4pm",
"meta": {
"site": "radio",
"source": "WNYC"
},
"link": "/radio/program/freakonomics-radio",
"subscribe": {
"npr": "https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/4s8b",
"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/freakonomics-radio/id354668519",
"tuneIn": "https://tunein.com/podcasts/WNYC-Podcasts/Freakonomics-Radio-p272293/",
"rss": "https://feeds.feedburner.com/freakonomicsradio"
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},
"fresh-air": {
"id": "fresh-air",
"title": "Fresh Air",
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=214089682&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory",
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"rss": "https://feeds.npr.org/381444908/podcast.xml"
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"here-and-now": {
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"info": "A live production of NPR and WBUR Boston, in collaboration with stations across the country, Here & Now reflects the fluid world of news as it's happening in the middle of the day, with timely, in-depth news, interviews and conversation. Hosted by Robin Young, Jeremy Hobson and Tonya Mosley.",
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},
"hidden-brain": {
"id": "hidden-brain",
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"info": "Shankar Vedantam uses science and storytelling to reveal the unconscious patterns that drive human behavior, shape our choices and direct our relationships.",
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"airtime": "SUN 7pm-8pm",
"meta": {
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"source": "NPR"
},
"link": "/radio/program/hidden-brain",
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},
"how-i-built-this": {
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"title": "How I Built This with Guy Raz",
"info": "Guy Raz dives into the stories behind some of the world's best known companies. How I Built This weaves a narrative journey about innovators, entrepreneurs and idealists—and the movements they built.",
"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/05/howIBuiltThis.png",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.npr.org/podcasts/510313/how-i-built-this",
"airtime": "SUN 7:30pm-8pm",
"meta": {
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"source": "npr"
},
"link": "/radio/program/how-i-built-this",
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"npr": "https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/3zxy",
"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/how-i-built-this-with-guy-raz/id1150510297?mt=2",
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},
"hyphenacion": {
"id": "hyphenacion",
"title": "Hyphenación",
"tagline": "Where conversation and cultura meet",
"info": "What kind of no sabo word is Hyphenación? For us, it’s about living within a hyphenation. Like being a third-gen Mexican-American from the Texas border now living that Bay Area Chicano life. Like Xorje! Each week we bring together a couple of hyphenated Latinos to talk all about personal life choices: family, careers, relationships, belonging … everything is on the table. ",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2025/03/Hyphenacion_FinalAssets_PodcastTile.png",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "/podcasts/hyphenacion",
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"order": 15
},
"link": "/podcasts/hyphenacion",
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},
"jerrybrown": {
"id": "jerrybrown",
"title": "The Political Mind of Jerry Brown",
"tagline": "Lessons from a lifetime in politics",
"info": "The Political Mind of Jerry Brown brings listeners the wisdom of the former Governor, Mayor, and presidential candidate. Scott Shafer interviewed Brown for more than 40 hours, covering the former governor's life and half-century in the political game – and Brown has some lessons he'd like to share. ",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/The-Political-Mind-of-Jerry-Brown-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "/podcasts/jerrybrown",
"meta": {
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"order": 18
},
"link": "/podcasts/jerrybrown",
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/id1492194549",
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}
},
"latino-usa": {
"id": "latino-usa",
"title": "Latino USA",
"airtime": "MON 1am-2am, SUN 6pm-7pm",
"info": "Latino USA, the radio journal of news and culture, is the only national, English-language radio program produced from a Latino perspective.",
"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/latinoUsa.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "http://latinousa.org/",
"meta": {
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},
"link": "/radio/program/latino-usa",
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=79681317&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory",
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"rss": "https://feeds.npr.org/510016/podcast.xml"
}
},
"marketplace": {
"id": "marketplace",
"title": "Marketplace",
"info": "Our flagship program, helmed by Kai Ryssdal, examines what the day in money delivered, through stories, conversations, newsworthy numbers and more. Updated Monday through Friday at about 3:30 p.m. PT.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 4pm-4:30pm, MON-WED 6:30pm-7pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Marketplace-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.marketplace.org/",
"meta": {
"site": "news",
"source": "American Public Media"
},
"link": "/radio/program/marketplace",
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"rss": "https://feeds.publicradio.org/public_feeds/marketplace-pm/rss/rss"
}
},
"masters-of-scale": {
"id": "masters-of-scale",
"title": "Masters of Scale",
"info": "Masters of Scale is an original podcast in which LinkedIn co-founder and Greylock Partner Reid Hoffman sets out to describe and prove theories that explain how great entrepreneurs take their companies from zero to a gazillion in ingenious fashion.",
"airtime": "Every other Wednesday June 12 through October 16 at 8pm (repeats Thursdays at 2am)",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "https://mastersofscale.com/",
"meta": {
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"source": "WaitWhat"
},
"link": "/radio/program/masters-of-scale",
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"apple": "http://mastersofscale.app.link/",
"rss": "https://rss.art19.com/masters-of-scale"
}
},
"mindshift": {
"id": "mindshift",
"title": "MindShift",
"tagline": "A podcast about the future of learning and how we raise our kids",
"info": "The MindShift podcast explores the innovations in education that are shaping how kids learn. Hosts Ki Sung and Katrina Schwartz introduce listeners to educators, researchers, parents and students who are developing effective ways to improve how kids learn. We cover topics like how fed-up administrators are developing surprising tactics to deal with classroom disruptions; how listening to podcasts are helping kids develop reading skills; the consequences of overparenting; and why interdisciplinary learning can engage students on all ends of the traditional achievement spectrum. This podcast is part of the MindShift education site, a division of KQED News. KQED is an NPR/PBS member station based in San Francisco. You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Mindshift-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
"imageAlt": "KQED MindShift: How We Will Learn",
"officialWebsiteLink": "/mindshift/",
"meta": {
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"source": "kqed",
"order": 12
},
"link": "/podcasts/mindshift",
"subscribe": {
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM1NzY0NjAwNDI5",
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}
},
"morning-edition": {
"id": "morning-edition",
"title": "Morning Edition",
"info": "\u003cem>Morning Edition\u003c/em> takes listeners around the country and the world with multi-faceted stories and commentaries every weekday. Hosts Steve Inskeep, David Greene and Rachel Martin bring you the latest breaking news and features to prepare you for the day.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 3am-9am",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Morning-Edition-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.npr.org/programs/morning-edition/",
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"link": "/radio/program/morning-edition"
},
"onourwatch": {
"id": "onourwatch",
"title": "On Our Watch",
"tagline": "Deeply-reported investigative journalism",
"info": "For decades, the process for how police police themselves has been inconsistent – if not opaque. In some states, like California, these proceedings were completely hidden. After a new police transparency law unsealed scores of internal affairs files, our reporters set out to examine these cases and the shadow world of police discipline. On Our Watch brings listeners into the rooms where officers are questioned and witnesses are interrogated to find out who this system is really protecting. Is it the officers, or the public they've sworn to serve?",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/On-Our-Watch-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
"imageAlt": "On Our Watch from NPR and KQED",
"officialWebsiteLink": "/podcasts/onourwatch",
"meta": {
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"source": "kqed",
"order": 11
},
"link": "/podcasts/onourwatch",
"subscribe": {
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5ucHIub3JnLzUxMDM2MC9wb2RjYXN0LnhtbD9zYz1nb29nbGVwb2RjYXN0cw",
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"rss": "https://feeds.npr.org/510360/podcast.xml"
}
},
"on-the-media": {
"id": "on-the-media",
"title": "On The Media",
"info": "Our weekly podcast explores how the media 'sausage' is made, casts an incisive eye on fluctuations in the marketplace of ideas, and examines threats to the freedom of information and expression in America and abroad. For one hour a week, the show tries to lift the veil from the process of \"making media,\" especially news media, because it's through that lens that we see the world and the world sees us",
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"info": "One of public radio's most dynamic voices, Sam Sanders helped launch The NPR Politics Podcast and hosted NPR's hit show It's Been A Minute. Now, the award-winning host returns with something brand new, The Sam Sanders Show. Every week, Sam Sanders and friends dig into the culture that shapes our lives: what's driving the biggest trends, how artists really think, and even the memes you can't stop scrolling past. Sam is beloved for his way of unpacking the world and bringing you up close to fresh currents and engaging conversations. The Sam Sanders Show is smart, funny and always a good time.",
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