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"disqusTitle": "How New Jersey Tamed The Wild Blueberry For Global Production",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story on Morning Edition:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nhttp://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2015/08/20150804_me_how_new_jersey_tamed_the_wild_blueberry_for_global_production.mp3\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nearly every plant that we now depend on for food — from wheat to beans to tomatoes — comes from ancestors that once grew wild on hills and in forests.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In most cases, we don't know who, exactly, tamed those plants. We don't know which inventive farmer, thousands of years ago, first selected seeds and planted them for food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The blueberry, though, is different. We know exactly who brought it in from the wild, and where.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It happened in the pine barrens of New Jersey.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This land is called barren for a reason. \"It's sandy soils, acidic soils, tough conditions,\" says \u003ca href=\"http://www.ars.usda.gov/pandp/people/people.htm?personid=1556\">Mark Ehlenfeldt\u003c/a>, a blueberry breeder with the Agricultural Research Service of the U.S. Department of Agriculture. \"It's not suitable for most agriculture, short of cranberries and blueberries.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ehlenfeldt and I are standing in a tiny, historic settlement called \u003ca href=\"http://www.whitesbog.org/\">Whitesbog\u003c/a>. It's a kind of time capsule from a century ago. There are dirt paths and a few old buildings, their sides made of plain, weathered, wooden shingles.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_98884\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/img_2160_custom-debbd1b41624cea7c27fa2ff87101581bd848215-e1438713554511.jpg\" alt=\"Mark Ehlenfeldt, a USDA blueberry breeder, in a century-old planting of Rubel blueberries in Whitesbog.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1279\" class=\"size-full wp-image-98884\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mark Ehlenfeldt, a USDA blueberry breeder, in a century-old planting of Rubel blueberries in Whitesbog. \u003ccite>(Dan Charles/NPR )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>When these buildings were erected, the White family owned this land. They were Quakers. Joseph White was a big landowner. He grew cranberries. His oldest daughter was named \u003ca href=\"http://gardenstatelegacy.com/files/The_Blueberry_Born___Bred_in_NJ_Knackmuhs_GSL5.pdf\">Elizabeth\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I always describe her as the son he never had. When he rode around with his superintendent, she was the one who rode with them on the wagon. She was very interested in the farm work,\" Ehlenfeldt says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She was also alert to new possibilities for this farm. In 1910, when she was 39 years old, she came across a report about blueberries from the U.S. Department of Agriculture, from a botanist named \u003ca href=\"http://hortsci.ashspublications.org/content/41/1/20.full.pdf\">Frederick Coville\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_98892\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 411px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/npr-blueberry.jpg\" alt=\"Elizabeth Coleman White inspects a blueberry bush in Whitesbog, N.J., date unknown. White began working with blueberries in 1911.\" width=\"411\" height=\"330\" class=\"size-full wp-image-98892\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/npr-blueberry.jpg 411w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/npr-blueberry-400x321.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 411px) 100vw, 411px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Elizabeth Coleman White inspects a blueberry bush in Whitesbog, N.J., date unknown. White began working with blueberries in 1911. \u003ccite>(\u003ca href=\"https://www.flickr.com/photos/usdagov/6839081234/\">USDA/Flickr\u003c/a> )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Coville had been investigating the wild blueberries that grew near his family's vacation home in New Hampshire. He'd figured out, for instance, why wild blueberries usually didn't prosper when people tried to grow them at home, in gardens. Blueberries, he reported, need acidic soils — very different from most food crops.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The report suggested that farmers might be able to use this knowledge to grow blueberries as a crop. And it got Elizabeth White's attention. She sat down and wrote a letter to Coville's boss at the USDA. She made sure to keep a carbon copy of this letter; she kept it in a fireproof safe for years afterward.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Elizabeth White offered to pay the USDA to carry out additional blueberry experiments on her family's farm. She wrote that this land would be \"admirably suited to blueberries, judging by the way the wild ones flourish\" in the pine forests nearby. These were tall, \"high-bush\" blueberries.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Within months, Frederick Coville, the botanist, came to Whitesbog to start the work. Elizabeth White sent word to local people who knew the forests that she would pay generously for any bushes with especially large berries.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_98886\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/img_2054_slide-e7b15e33fb26b99e9485b23b3cba7157546489fd-e1438714195355.jpg\" alt=\"Blueberries wait for processing at the Atlantic Blueberry Co. packing facility in Hammonton, N.J.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-98886\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Blueberries wait for processing at the Atlantic Blueberry Co. packing facility in Hammonton, N.J. \u003ccite>(Dan Charles/NPR )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The pine people, as they were known, located 100 promising blueberry bushes. \u003cbr>White named each one for the person who found it: Harding, Hanes, Rubel. (Rubel was actually found by a man named Rube Leek. White didn't think she should use Leek as a blueberry name, and \"Rube\" didn't seem polite, so they settled on \"Rubel.\")\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Coville figured out how to take cuttings from these bushes and grow new ones. These were clones of the original. \"You could take that single bush and make 100 bushes. You could make 1,000 bushes. 10,000 bushes. And they would all be uniform,\" says Ehlenfeldt.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A few of those bushes were great berry producers. In fact, some of them still are growing here in a field at Whitesbog, right where they were planted 100 years ago, and they're still putting out berries.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Coville also used these native bushes to start breeding. He cross-pollinated them, collected the seeds and grew them, selecting new bushes from among the offspring that produced the biggest and best crop of berries.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Elizabeth White described this work, years later, as a \"joyous memory.\" She wrote that \"encouraging developments came thick and fast. Dr. Coville and I gloated over them together, the enthusiasm of each fanning to brighter flame that of the other.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 1916, they had a totally different kind of blueberry harvest to sell: large berries that all looked and tasted the same.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The blueberry had been tamed. A new business was born.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And in recent years, it's turned into a global phenomenon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_98887\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/img_2073_slide-56b9f162f9a202aa0d78f5c4a495a2219de5f3f8-e1438714273258.jpg\" alt=\"Part of the fresh blueberry packing line at the Atlantic Blueberry Co.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1279\" class=\"size-full wp-image-98887\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Part of the fresh blueberry packing line at the Atlantic Blueberry Co. \u003ccite>(Dan Charles/NPR )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>I got a small taste of that growth at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.atlanticblueberry.com/#!about/c15v1\">Atlantic Blueberry Co.\u003c/a> of Hammonton, N.J., a town that calls itself the Blueberry Capital Of the World. The Galleta family started this business with four acres of blueberries in 1936. Today, the company is still family owned, but its fields cover more than 1,000 acres.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Thousands of tons of blueberries flow through the packing house here during the two-month harvest. A river of blue flows underneath a video camera, which can detect any berries that aren't quite blue enough. A computer instantly activates air jets that blow the not-quite-ripe berry out of the stream.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"If it's red or green, it's coming out!\" shouts Denny Doyle, the company's general manager, over the din of equipment.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some berries go into boxes and straight off to the supermarket. Others go into a supercharged cooler, where it's 15 degrees below zero.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Within 30 to 60 seconds, it'll start freezing the berries,\" says Doyle. \"I'm running 80-mile-an-hour winds in there. It's very turbulent in there.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even though Atlantic Blueberry's production has grown, demand for blueberries has grown even faster.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A few decades ago, \u003ca href=\"http://www.news4jax.com/news/uf-leads-way-in-building-better-blueberry/33768282\">plant breeders\u003c/a> in Florida created new kinds of high-bush blueberries that could grow in warmer climates. Blueberry production spread from its traditional sites in New Jersey and Michigan to Florida, Georgia, California and Oregon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.hrt.msu.edu/jim-hancock\">Jim Hancock\u003c/a>, a blueberry breeder at Michigan State University, watched this growth in amazement. \"I couldn't believe that this could be sustained,\" he says. \"And it's never diminished.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>North American consumers can now get fresh blueberries in winter. They grow in Chile and Peru. Europeans are now growing high-bush blueberries.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Just in the past 10 years, global blueberry production has \u003ca href=\"http://www.blueberrycouncil.org/blueberry-marketers/\">tripled\u003c/a>. \"It's become a world crop. It's huge!\" says Hancock.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And no matter where they grow, these high-bush blueberries trace at least part of their ancestry to Whitesbog, and the enthusiasm of Elizabeth White and Frederick Coville. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cem>Copyright 2015 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "In the past 10 years, the global blueberry crop has tripled. Yet the big, round commercial blueberry is a fairly recent innovation. It was created by breeders exactly 100 years ago, in New Jersey.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story on Morning Edition:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nhttp://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2015/08/20150804_me_how_new_jersey_tamed_the_wild_blueberry_for_global_production.mp3\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nearly every plant that we now depend on for food — from wheat to beans to tomatoes — comes from ancestors that once grew wild on hills and in forests.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In most cases, we don't know who, exactly, tamed those plants. We don't know which inventive farmer, thousands of years ago, first selected seeds and planted them for food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The blueberry, though, is different. We know exactly who brought it in from the wild, and where.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It happened in the pine barrens of New Jersey.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This land is called barren for a reason. \"It's sandy soils, acidic soils, tough conditions,\" says \u003ca href=\"http://www.ars.usda.gov/pandp/people/people.htm?personid=1556\">Mark Ehlenfeldt\u003c/a>, a blueberry breeder with the Agricultural Research Service of the U.S. Department of Agriculture. \"It's not suitable for most agriculture, short of cranberries and blueberries.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ehlenfeldt and I are standing in a tiny, historic settlement called \u003ca href=\"http://www.whitesbog.org/\">Whitesbog\u003c/a>. It's a kind of time capsule from a century ago. There are dirt paths and a few old buildings, their sides made of plain, weathered, wooden shingles.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_98884\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/img_2160_custom-debbd1b41624cea7c27fa2ff87101581bd848215-e1438713554511.jpg\" alt=\"Mark Ehlenfeldt, a USDA blueberry breeder, in a century-old planting of Rubel blueberries in Whitesbog.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1279\" class=\"size-full wp-image-98884\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mark Ehlenfeldt, a USDA blueberry breeder, in a century-old planting of Rubel blueberries in Whitesbog. \u003ccite>(Dan Charles/NPR )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>When these buildings were erected, the White family owned this land. They were Quakers. Joseph White was a big landowner. He grew cranberries. His oldest daughter was named \u003ca href=\"http://gardenstatelegacy.com/files/The_Blueberry_Born___Bred_in_NJ_Knackmuhs_GSL5.pdf\">Elizabeth\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I always describe her as the son he never had. When he rode around with his superintendent, she was the one who rode with them on the wagon. She was very interested in the farm work,\" Ehlenfeldt says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She was also alert to new possibilities for this farm. In 1910, when she was 39 years old, she came across a report about blueberries from the U.S. Department of Agriculture, from a botanist named \u003ca href=\"http://hortsci.ashspublications.org/content/41/1/20.full.pdf\">Frederick Coville\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_98892\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 411px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/npr-blueberry.jpg\" alt=\"Elizabeth Coleman White inspects a blueberry bush in Whitesbog, N.J., date unknown. White began working with blueberries in 1911.\" width=\"411\" height=\"330\" class=\"size-full wp-image-98892\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/npr-blueberry.jpg 411w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/npr-blueberry-400x321.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 411px) 100vw, 411px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Elizabeth Coleman White inspects a blueberry bush in Whitesbog, N.J., date unknown. White began working with blueberries in 1911. \u003ccite>(\u003ca href=\"https://www.flickr.com/photos/usdagov/6839081234/\">USDA/Flickr\u003c/a> )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Coville had been investigating the wild blueberries that grew near his family's vacation home in New Hampshire. He'd figured out, for instance, why wild blueberries usually didn't prosper when people tried to grow them at home, in gardens. Blueberries, he reported, need acidic soils — very different from most food crops.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The report suggested that farmers might be able to use this knowledge to grow blueberries as a crop. And it got Elizabeth White's attention. She sat down and wrote a letter to Coville's boss at the USDA. She made sure to keep a carbon copy of this letter; she kept it in a fireproof safe for years afterward.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Elizabeth White offered to pay the USDA to carry out additional blueberry experiments on her family's farm. She wrote that this land would be \"admirably suited to blueberries, judging by the way the wild ones flourish\" in the pine forests nearby. These were tall, \"high-bush\" blueberries.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Within months, Frederick Coville, the botanist, came to Whitesbog to start the work. Elizabeth White sent word to local people who knew the forests that she would pay generously for any bushes with especially large berries.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_98886\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/img_2054_slide-e7b15e33fb26b99e9485b23b3cba7157546489fd-e1438714195355.jpg\" alt=\"Blueberries wait for processing at the Atlantic Blueberry Co. packing facility in Hammonton, N.J.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-98886\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Blueberries wait for processing at the Atlantic Blueberry Co. packing facility in Hammonton, N.J. \u003ccite>(Dan Charles/NPR )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The pine people, as they were known, located 100 promising blueberry bushes. \u003cbr>White named each one for the person who found it: Harding, Hanes, Rubel. (Rubel was actually found by a man named Rube Leek. White didn't think she should use Leek as a blueberry name, and \"Rube\" didn't seem polite, so they settled on \"Rubel.\")\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Coville figured out how to take cuttings from these bushes and grow new ones. These were clones of the original. \"You could take that single bush and make 100 bushes. You could make 1,000 bushes. 10,000 bushes. And they would all be uniform,\" says Ehlenfeldt.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A few of those bushes were great berry producers. In fact, some of them still are growing here in a field at Whitesbog, right where they were planted 100 years ago, and they're still putting out berries.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Coville also used these native bushes to start breeding. He cross-pollinated them, collected the seeds and grew them, selecting new bushes from among the offspring that produced the biggest and best crop of berries.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Elizabeth White described this work, years later, as a \"joyous memory.\" She wrote that \"encouraging developments came thick and fast. Dr. Coville and I gloated over them together, the enthusiasm of each fanning to brighter flame that of the other.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 1916, they had a totally different kind of blueberry harvest to sell: large berries that all looked and tasted the same.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The blueberry had been tamed. A new business was born.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And in recent years, it's turned into a global phenomenon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_98887\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/img_2073_slide-56b9f162f9a202aa0d78f5c4a495a2219de5f3f8-e1438714273258.jpg\" alt=\"Part of the fresh blueberry packing line at the Atlantic Blueberry Co.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1279\" class=\"size-full wp-image-98887\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Part of the fresh blueberry packing line at the Atlantic Blueberry Co. \u003ccite>(Dan Charles/NPR )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>I got a small taste of that growth at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.atlanticblueberry.com/#!about/c15v1\">Atlantic Blueberry Co.\u003c/a> of Hammonton, N.J., a town that calls itself the Blueberry Capital Of the World. The Galleta family started this business with four acres of blueberries in 1936. Today, the company is still family owned, but its fields cover more than 1,000 acres.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Thousands of tons of blueberries flow through the packing house here during the two-month harvest. A river of blue flows underneath a video camera, which can detect any berries that aren't quite blue enough. A computer instantly activates air jets that blow the not-quite-ripe berry out of the stream.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"If it's red or green, it's coming out!\" shouts Denny Doyle, the company's general manager, over the din of equipment.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some berries go into boxes and straight off to the supermarket. Others go into a supercharged cooler, where it's 15 degrees below zero.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Within 30 to 60 seconds, it'll start freezing the berries,\" says Doyle. \"I'm running 80-mile-an-hour winds in there. It's very turbulent in there.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even though Atlantic Blueberry's production has grown, demand for blueberries has grown even faster.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A few decades ago, \u003ca href=\"http://www.news4jax.com/news/uf-leads-way-in-building-better-blueberry/33768282\">plant breeders\u003c/a> in Florida created new kinds of high-bush blueberries that could grow in warmer climates. Blueberry production spread from its traditional sites in New Jersey and Michigan to Florida, Georgia, California and Oregon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.hrt.msu.edu/jim-hancock\">Jim Hancock\u003c/a>, a blueberry breeder at Michigan State University, watched this growth in amazement. \"I couldn't believe that this could be sustained,\" he says. \"And it's never diminished.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>North American consumers can now get fresh blueberries in winter. They grow in Chile and Peru. Europeans are now growing high-bush blueberries.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Just in the past 10 years, global blueberry production has \u003ca href=\"http://www.blueberrycouncil.org/blueberry-marketers/\">tripled\u003c/a>. \"It's become a world crop. It's huge!\" says Hancock.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And no matter where they grow, these high-bush blueberries trace at least part of their ancestry to Whitesbog, and the enthusiasm of Elizabeth White and Frederick Coville. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "“Better Than Ice Cream”: Frozen Custard Comes To the Bay Area",
"title": "“Better Than Ice Cream”: Frozen Custard Comes To the Bay Area",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>Us Bay Area residents can be a proud bunch when it comes to food. And justifiably so! With a climate that guarantees us picture perfect produce year round, we live in a veritable Eden of fresh, delicious food, far, far away from places with canned vegetables and \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2015/04/15/dining/dont-mess-with-my-breakfast-sandwich.html\" target=\"_blank\">bizarre obsessions\u003c/a> with egg sandwiches--places like the Midwest or the East Coast.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yet, there’s one area that they’ve got us beat: frozen custard, a frozen Midwest and East Coast treat that’s rich, creamy and definitely better than ice cream.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At least, that’s what you’ll hear from the collection of Midwest and East Coast transplants bringing frozen custard to the Bay Area, a growing group that includes \u003ca href=\"http://www.flavorbrigade.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Flavor Brigade\u003c/a> in Oakland, \u003ca href=\"http://www.thevelvetscoop.com/\" target=\"_blank\">The Velvet Scoop\u003c/a> in San Francisco, \u003ca href=\"http://www.ritasfranchises.com/stores/store.cfm/Castro%20Valley-94546/store/2895\" target=\"_blank\">Rita’s\u003c/a> in Castro Valley, and food trucks like \u003ca href=\"http://www.lexiesfrozencustard.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Lexie's Frozen Custard,\u003c/a> \u003ca href=\"http://www.frozenkuhsterd.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Frozen Kuhsterd \u003c/a>and \u003ca href=\"http://izzyafrozenicecreamcustard.com/index.html\" target=\"_blank\">IzzyA's\u003c/a>. Armed with patient explanations and lots of egg yolks, they’re introducing the ice cream lovers of the Bay Area to the pleasures of custards, concretes and gelati. And they’re not the only ones who’ve recognized custard’s potential in the Bay Area. In February, East Coast custard and Italian ice chain \u003ca href=\"http://sf.eater.com/2015/2/12/8027175/ritas-italian-ice-northern-california-60-locations\" target=\"_blank\">Rita’s announced\u003c/a> their plans to open 60 stores in Northern California over the next few years. And later that month, Oakland-born \u003ca href=\"http://www.dreyers.com/FrozenCustard\" target=\"_blank\">Dreyer's introduced \u003c/a>a line of packaged frozen custards coming to a freezer aisle near you.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, what is this beloved treat? Frozen custard is a form of ice cream that's denser and richer than your typical pint, and is governed by the \u003ca href=\"http://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/cfrsearch.cfm?fr=135.110\" target=\"_blank\">FDA’s strict rules\u003c/a>, which ensure that custard is always made with at least 1.4 egg yolk solids by weight, giving it a silky richness.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_98624\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/High_Res_Rainbow_fc_cone-2.jpg\" alt=\"A cone at the Velvet Scoop in the Mission.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1276\" class=\"size-full wp-image-98624\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/High_Res_Rainbow_fc_cone-2.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/High_Res_Rainbow_fc_cone-2-400x266.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/High_Res_Rainbow_fc_cone-2-800x532.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/High_Res_Rainbow_fc_cone-2-1440x957.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/High_Res_Rainbow_fc_cone-2-1400x930.jpg 1400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/High_Res_Rainbow_fc_cone-2-1180x784.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/High_Res_Rainbow_fc_cone-2-960x638.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A cone at the Velvet Scoop in the Mission. \u003ccite>(Velvet Scoop)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>It also has less air whipped into it than ice cream. When making ice cream, the percent of volume increase due to the air added is referred to \u003ca href=\"http://www.idfa.org/news-views/media-kits/ice-cream/ice-cream-labeling\" target=\"_blank\">as overrun.\u003c/a> While ice cream can have up to 100% overrun (meaning that half the volume of your pint of butter pecan is air), frozen custard typically has much less (around 20-25%), making it dense smoothness. Since it’s typically made to order and never frozen, it also has the easier to eat texture of soft serve.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Frozen custard was invented in 1919 when Coney Island ice cream sellers Archie and Elton Kohr \u003ca href=\"http://www.kohrbros.com/coney.html\" target=\"_blank\">added egg to their ice cream\u003c/a> to keep their product from melting too quickly. It was successful and the dessert got a boost in 1933 when it was exhibited at the Chicago World’s Fair. The dessert spread around the country, becoming \u003ca href=\"http://ediblemilwaukee.com/vintage-eats/how-milwaukee-earned-its-custard-crown/\" target=\"_blank\">especially popular\u003c/a> in Milwaukee, where it has become a regional treat aided by the state’s robust dairy industry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_98625\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/20150725_161059-2.jpg\" alt=\"Flavor Brigade's slogan: "Philly's Best Now Available in the West"\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1199\" class=\"size-full wp-image-98625\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/20150725_161059-2.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/20150725_161059-2-400x250.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/20150725_161059-2-800x500.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/20150725_161059-2-1440x899.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/20150725_161059-2-1400x874.jpg 1400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/20150725_161059-2-1180x737.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/20150725_161059-2-960x600.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Flavor Brigade's slogan: \"Philly's Best Now Available in the West\" \u003ccite>(Shelby Pope)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Most of the Bay Area custard shops have Midwestern roots. Oakland’s Flavor Brigade, the Bay Area’s first custard shop, was started in 2010 by childhood friends Braedon Galloway and Justin Mruskovic from Philadelphia who couldn’t find any good custard options after moving to the area. Their venture proved so successful that they opened a second shop in Pleasanton earlier this month. Velvet Scoop owner Zoe Madigan grew up making frozen custard with her grandparents in Illinois and eventually left her tech job to open up her shop in the Mission last year. And after Milwaukee native Tom Tankka introduced his wife Tina to the city’s famous \u003ca href=\"https://www.kopps.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Kopp’s Frozen Custard\u003c/a>, she fell in love with the dessert, and the two decided to start a frozen custard food truck last year, where they offer flavors more unusual than the typical chocolate and vanilla: mojito lime rickey custard, strawberry apricot sorbet, and boba frozen custard floats.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And the new shops aren’t just offering custard. Frozen custard has a whole entourage of desserts that go with it. There’s the concrete, which the Velvet Scoop specializes in: a generous amount of creamy soft serve combined with toppings like Nutella, cornflakes or butterscotch, that’s thick enough to be \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz_photos/the-velvet-scoop-san-francisco#XrlogBW2Ki-VzwDP3evTHA\" target=\"_blank\">served upside down\u003c/a>. Then there’s the gelati-- fruit flavored Italian ice topped with custard, typically vanilla, custard--that the chain Rita’s, which has a location in Castro Valley, offers. Flavor Brigade has something similar called the Mummers Mix, named for Philadelphia's colorful New Year’s Day \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mummers_Parade\" target=\"_blank\">parade\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s been easy for the Bay Area shops to gain momentum: there’s a built-in audience of Midwestern transplants eager for their cherished custard: “A long-running joke at The Velvet Scoop is that we’ve met every San Franciscan with roots in Milwaukee, St. Louis, and Chicago, the modern-day frozen custard capital cities,” Velvet Scoop’s Zoe Madigan said in an email.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s the natives that take a little more convincing. “Some people come and say, ‘Is this custard, like pudding?’” said Tina Tankka. But while bringing custard to the Bay may require a little more explanation, the shop owners say it’s quickly converting us locals.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_98627\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/DSC_0609.jpg\" alt=\"A 2nd Street from Oakland's Flavor Brigade.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1676\" class=\"size-full wp-image-98627\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/DSC_0609.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/DSC_0609-400x349.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/DSC_0609-800x698.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/DSC_0609-1440x1257.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/DSC_0609-1400x1222.jpg 1400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/DSC_0609-1180x1030.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/DSC_0609-960x838.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A 2nd Street from Oakland's Flavor Brigade. \u003ccite>(Shelby Pope)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“We serve frozen custard to everyone from giggly youth soccer teams, to chatty book clubs, people who’ve lived in The Mission for generations, newcomers, business people, artists, musicians, families, friends, tourists, techies, and everyone in between. Collectively, our staff speaks English, Spanish, Chinese, and French; we’ve served customers in each of those languages,” Madigan said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Some of them ask, is it ice cream? No, we say. It’s better than ice cream,” Tankka said. “Then we give them a taste. We insist on the tasting. And once they have a taste, they’re hooked.”\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Frozen custard is supposedly better than ice cream. It is historically a Midwestern and East Coast treat and a number of shops are springing up in the Bay Area serving this frozen dessert. Shelby Pope shares the story behind frozen custard and tells you the best local spots to get it. ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Us Bay Area residents can be a proud bunch when it comes to food. And justifiably so! With a climate that guarantees us picture perfect produce year round, we live in a veritable Eden of fresh, delicious food, far, far away from places with canned vegetables and \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2015/04/15/dining/dont-mess-with-my-breakfast-sandwich.html\" target=\"_blank\">bizarre obsessions\u003c/a> with egg sandwiches--places like the Midwest or the East Coast.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yet, there’s one area that they’ve got us beat: frozen custard, a frozen Midwest and East Coast treat that’s rich, creamy and definitely better than ice cream.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At least, that’s what you’ll hear from the collection of Midwest and East Coast transplants bringing frozen custard to the Bay Area, a growing group that includes \u003ca href=\"http://www.flavorbrigade.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Flavor Brigade\u003c/a> in Oakland, \u003ca href=\"http://www.thevelvetscoop.com/\" target=\"_blank\">The Velvet Scoop\u003c/a> in San Francisco, \u003ca href=\"http://www.ritasfranchises.com/stores/store.cfm/Castro%20Valley-94546/store/2895\" target=\"_blank\">Rita’s\u003c/a> in Castro Valley, and food trucks like \u003ca href=\"http://www.lexiesfrozencustard.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Lexie's Frozen Custard,\u003c/a> \u003ca href=\"http://www.frozenkuhsterd.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Frozen Kuhsterd \u003c/a>and \u003ca href=\"http://izzyafrozenicecreamcustard.com/index.html\" target=\"_blank\">IzzyA's\u003c/a>. Armed with patient explanations and lots of egg yolks, they’re introducing the ice cream lovers of the Bay Area to the pleasures of custards, concretes and gelati. And they’re not the only ones who’ve recognized custard’s potential in the Bay Area. In February, East Coast custard and Italian ice chain \u003ca href=\"http://sf.eater.com/2015/2/12/8027175/ritas-italian-ice-northern-california-60-locations\" target=\"_blank\">Rita’s announced\u003c/a> their plans to open 60 stores in Northern California over the next few years. And later that month, Oakland-born \u003ca href=\"http://www.dreyers.com/FrozenCustard\" target=\"_blank\">Dreyer's introduced \u003c/a>a line of packaged frozen custards coming to a freezer aisle near you.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, what is this beloved treat? Frozen custard is a form of ice cream that's denser and richer than your typical pint, and is governed by the \u003ca href=\"http://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/cfrsearch.cfm?fr=135.110\" target=\"_blank\">FDA’s strict rules\u003c/a>, which ensure that custard is always made with at least 1.4 egg yolk solids by weight, giving it a silky richness.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_98624\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/High_Res_Rainbow_fc_cone-2.jpg\" alt=\"A cone at the Velvet Scoop in the Mission.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1276\" class=\"size-full wp-image-98624\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/High_Res_Rainbow_fc_cone-2.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/High_Res_Rainbow_fc_cone-2-400x266.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/High_Res_Rainbow_fc_cone-2-800x532.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/High_Res_Rainbow_fc_cone-2-1440x957.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/High_Res_Rainbow_fc_cone-2-1400x930.jpg 1400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/High_Res_Rainbow_fc_cone-2-1180x784.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/High_Res_Rainbow_fc_cone-2-960x638.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A cone at the Velvet Scoop in the Mission. \u003ccite>(Velvet Scoop)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>It also has less air whipped into it than ice cream. When making ice cream, the percent of volume increase due to the air added is referred to \u003ca href=\"http://www.idfa.org/news-views/media-kits/ice-cream/ice-cream-labeling\" target=\"_blank\">as overrun.\u003c/a> While ice cream can have up to 100% overrun (meaning that half the volume of your pint of butter pecan is air), frozen custard typically has much less (around 20-25%), making it dense smoothness. Since it’s typically made to order and never frozen, it also has the easier to eat texture of soft serve.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Frozen custard was invented in 1919 when Coney Island ice cream sellers Archie and Elton Kohr \u003ca href=\"http://www.kohrbros.com/coney.html\" target=\"_blank\">added egg to their ice cream\u003c/a> to keep their product from melting too quickly. It was successful and the dessert got a boost in 1933 when it was exhibited at the Chicago World’s Fair. The dessert spread around the country, becoming \u003ca href=\"http://ediblemilwaukee.com/vintage-eats/how-milwaukee-earned-its-custard-crown/\" target=\"_blank\">especially popular\u003c/a> in Milwaukee, where it has become a regional treat aided by the state’s robust dairy industry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_98625\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/20150725_161059-2.jpg\" alt=\"Flavor Brigade's slogan: "Philly's Best Now Available in the West"\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1199\" class=\"size-full wp-image-98625\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/20150725_161059-2.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/20150725_161059-2-400x250.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/20150725_161059-2-800x500.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/20150725_161059-2-1440x899.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/20150725_161059-2-1400x874.jpg 1400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/20150725_161059-2-1180x737.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/20150725_161059-2-960x600.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Flavor Brigade's slogan: \"Philly's Best Now Available in the West\" \u003ccite>(Shelby Pope)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Most of the Bay Area custard shops have Midwestern roots. Oakland’s Flavor Brigade, the Bay Area’s first custard shop, was started in 2010 by childhood friends Braedon Galloway and Justin Mruskovic from Philadelphia who couldn’t find any good custard options after moving to the area. Their venture proved so successful that they opened a second shop in Pleasanton earlier this month. Velvet Scoop owner Zoe Madigan grew up making frozen custard with her grandparents in Illinois and eventually left her tech job to open up her shop in the Mission last year. And after Milwaukee native Tom Tankka introduced his wife Tina to the city’s famous \u003ca href=\"https://www.kopps.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Kopp’s Frozen Custard\u003c/a>, she fell in love with the dessert, and the two decided to start a frozen custard food truck last year, where they offer flavors more unusual than the typical chocolate and vanilla: mojito lime rickey custard, strawberry apricot sorbet, and boba frozen custard floats.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And the new shops aren’t just offering custard. Frozen custard has a whole entourage of desserts that go with it. There’s the concrete, which the Velvet Scoop specializes in: a generous amount of creamy soft serve combined with toppings like Nutella, cornflakes or butterscotch, that’s thick enough to be \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz_photos/the-velvet-scoop-san-francisco#XrlogBW2Ki-VzwDP3evTHA\" target=\"_blank\">served upside down\u003c/a>. Then there’s the gelati-- fruit flavored Italian ice topped with custard, typically vanilla, custard--that the chain Rita’s, which has a location in Castro Valley, offers. Flavor Brigade has something similar called the Mummers Mix, named for Philadelphia's colorful New Year’s Day \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mummers_Parade\" target=\"_blank\">parade\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s been easy for the Bay Area shops to gain momentum: there’s a built-in audience of Midwestern transplants eager for their cherished custard: “A long-running joke at The Velvet Scoop is that we’ve met every San Franciscan with roots in Milwaukee, St. Louis, and Chicago, the modern-day frozen custard capital cities,” Velvet Scoop’s Zoe Madigan said in an email.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s the natives that take a little more convincing. “Some people come and say, ‘Is this custard, like pudding?’” said Tina Tankka. But while bringing custard to the Bay may require a little more explanation, the shop owners say it’s quickly converting us locals.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_98627\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/DSC_0609.jpg\" alt=\"A 2nd Street from Oakland's Flavor Brigade.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1676\" class=\"size-full wp-image-98627\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/DSC_0609.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/DSC_0609-400x349.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/DSC_0609-800x698.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/DSC_0609-1440x1257.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/DSC_0609-1400x1222.jpg 1400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/DSC_0609-1180x1030.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/DSC_0609-960x838.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A 2nd Street from Oakland's Flavor Brigade. \u003ccite>(Shelby Pope)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“We serve frozen custard to everyone from giggly youth soccer teams, to chatty book clubs, people who’ve lived in The Mission for generations, newcomers, business people, artists, musicians, families, friends, tourists, techies, and everyone in between. Collectively, our staff speaks English, Spanish, Chinese, and French; we’ve served customers in each of those languages,” Madigan said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Some of them ask, is it ice cream? No, we say. It’s better than ice cream,” Tankka said. “Then we give them a taste. We insist on the tasting. And once they have a taste, they’re hooked.”\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Why The Pig Is The Most Loved And Most Loathed Animal On The Plate",
"title": "Why The Pig Is The Most Loved And Most Loathed Animal On The Plate",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>In 1849 an American farmer watched a sow give birth and was moved to record a diary entry: \"Pigs! Pigs! Pork! Pork! Pork!\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The writer's enthusiasm — dug up by historical geographer Sam Bowers Hilliard for \u003ca href=\"http://www.ugapress.org/index.php/books/hog_meat_and_hoecake\">Hog Meat and Hoecake\u003c/a>, his examination of Southern foodways — is understandable. Swine reproduce far more quickly than cows and sheep, thanks to brief gestation periods and large litters, and pork only improves when cured with salt and smoke. If your goal is to produce a great deal of meat and then store it at room temperature — crucial before refrigerators came along — the pig is the animal for you.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Enormously useful as they are, swine have not been universally adored. The history of pigs is a tale of love and loathing. As long as pigs have existed, people have weighed their hunger for meat against worries about how the animals lived and what they ate. And today, we have just as much reason to worry about how pigs are living.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pigs and people have similar digestive systems and similar diets: Both are omnivores who thrive on meat, roots and seeds. It was food that first brought them together. About 10,000 years ago, hunter-gatherers in Anatolia — now Turkey — settled down into villages. Almost immediately, Eurasian wild boars began slinking into town to devour scraps, spoiled grain and rotten fruit. In time, some of those scavenging boars evolved into domestic pigs. \u003cem>Sus scrofa domesticus\u003c/em> was the new species perfectly adapted to living alongside people.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By 1,000 BC, however, our partnership with pigs had soured, a development marked most notably in the Book of Leviticus, which deemed pigs \"unclean.\" The Israelites could eat any beast that \"parteth the hoof, and is clovenfooted, and cheweth the cud.\" Cows, sheep and goats got the nod; pigs did not: \"though he divide the hoof, and be clovenfooted, yet he cheweth not the cud.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_98215\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1436px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/pieter_bruegel_the_elder_-_the_fair_at_hoboken_-_wga03527_custom-bd24cc424da80346e34466b7ec7a634a8917eba7.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/pieter_bruegel_the_elder_-_the_fair_at_hoboken_-_wga03527_custom-bd24cc424da80346e34466b7ec7a634a8917eba7.jpg\" alt=\"As Europe's forests were felled to grow crops, pigs took up residence in towns, as in this 1559 sketch "Fair at Hoboken" by Breugel the Elder. The pig's scavenging habits — which included the occasional human corpse — was one factor in a decline in the reputation of pigs and pork in the late Middle Ages.\" width=\"1436\" height=\"965\" class=\"size-full wp-image-98215\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/pieter_bruegel_the_elder_-_the_fair_at_hoboken_-_wga03527_custom-bd24cc424da80346e34466b7ec7a634a8917eba7.jpg 1436w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/pieter_bruegel_the_elder_-_the_fair_at_hoboken_-_wga03527_custom-bd24cc424da80346e34466b7ec7a634a8917eba7-400x269.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/pieter_bruegel_the_elder_-_the_fair_at_hoboken_-_wga03527_custom-bd24cc424da80346e34466b7ec7a634a8917eba7-800x538.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/pieter_bruegel_the_elder_-_the_fair_at_hoboken_-_wga03527_custom-bd24cc424da80346e34466b7ec7a634a8917eba7-1400x941.jpg 1400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/pieter_bruegel_the_elder_-_the_fair_at_hoboken_-_wga03527_custom-bd24cc424da80346e34466b7ec7a634a8917eba7-1180x793.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/pieter_bruegel_the_elder_-_the_fair_at_hoboken_-_wga03527_custom-bd24cc424da80346e34466b7ec7a634a8917eba7-960x645.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1436px) 100vw, 1436px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">As Europe's forests were felled to grow crops, pigs took up residence in towns, as in this 1559 sketch \"Fair at Hoboken\" by Breugel the Elder. The pig's scavenging habits — which included the occasional human corpse — was one factor in a decline in the reputation of pigs and pork in the late Middle Ages. \u003ccite>(\u003ca href=\"https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Pieter_Bruegel_the_Elder_-_The_Fair_at_Hoboken_-_WGA03527.jpg\">Pieter Bruegel the Elder/via Wikimedia\u003c/a>)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The Koran followed suit in the seventh century AD: \"forbidden to you is ... the flesh of swine.\" Today a quarter of the world's population — 14 million Jews and 1.6 billion Muslims — must avoid pork.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The rules strike many as arbitrary, and there has been no shortage of attempts to expose the supposedly hidden truth. The mostly popular explanation — that the ban protected against trichinosis — is almost \u003ca href=\"https://books.google.com/books?id=WV8WAAAAQBAJ&pg=PA70&lpg=PA70&dq=trichinosis+pork+taboo&source=bl&ots=FwHCxtq-Du&sig=53EDiZvefxTwsT54L5s_fu2YD00&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0CDAQ6AEwBTgKahUKEwjFquP2iePGAhWCvYAKHVOJAvw#v=onepage&q=trichinosis%20pork%20taboo&f=false\">certainly untrue\u003c/a> (there's no evidence the parasite existed in ancient Palestine, and other meats could be equally dangerous). Some scholars point to the unsuitability of pigs for desert conditions, or the fact that pigs and humans might compete for food. Others suggest that poor people could raise pigs at home and thereby gain control of their own food supply; rulers, intent on total control, banned pigs so the poor would be hungry unless fed by the state.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_98222\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/pigsty.jpg\" alt=\"This Chinese sculpture, dating to about 200 AD, depicts an outhouse perched over a pigsty. All over the world pigs ate human waste, carrion, and rotting garbage, a dietary habit that made them quite useful—they cleaned the streets and transformed filth into meat—but also turned them into pariahs.\" width=\"400\" height=\"356\" class=\"size-full wp-image-98222\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">This Chinese sculpture, dating to about 200 AD, depicts an outhouse perched over a pigsty. All over the world pigs ate human waste, carrion, and rotting garbage, a dietary habit that made them quite useful—they cleaned the streets and transformed filth into meat—but also turned them into pariahs. \u003ccite>(\u003ca href=\"https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Green_glazed_toilet_with_pigsty_model._Eastern_Han_dynasty_25_-_220_CE.jpg\">via Wikimedia\u003c/a>)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>All of these theories hold a piece of the truth, but the best explanation lies in Leviticus. The approved animals \"chew the cud,\" which is another way of saying they are ruminants that eat grass. Pigs \"cheweth not the cud\" because they possess simple guts, unable to digest cellulose. They eat calorie-dense foods, not only nuts and grains but also less salubrious items such as carrion, human corpses and feces. Pigs were unclean because they ate filth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Jews were not alone in this prejudice. In the great civilizations of Mesopotamia and Egypt, priests and rulers avoided pork at all costs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Just across the Mediterranean, however, the Romans loved swine with a passion matched by few people before or since. Romans sacrificed pigs to their gods and created an elaborate pork-based cuisine, including some dishes—such as roast udder of lactating sow—that could make even a gentile shudder.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What accounts for these differing views? In the Near East, an arid land, most pigs lived as urban scavengers. The Italian Peninsula, by contrast, boasted vast oak forests, and Rome imported wheat by the shipload. Rather than eating garbage in the streets, Roman pigs spent their days dining on acorns and grain.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The reputation of pork depends upon the life of the pig. In early medieval Europe, when most pigs foraged in the woods, pork was the preferred meat of the nobility. By 1300 most forests had been felled, and pigs became scavengers. In a medieval British text, a woman explains that she won't serve pork because pigs \"eat human shit in the streets.\" Pigs also dined on human flesh, which was available because executed prisoners, among others, were left unburied. In Shakespeare's \u003cem>Richard III\u003c/em>, the title character is described as a \"foul swine\" who \"Swills your warm blood like wash, and makes his trough / In your embowell'd bosoms.\" An Irish religious text noted, \"Cows feed only on grass and the leaves of trees, but swine eat things clean and unclean.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pigs today eat a wholesome diet of corn and soybeans, but people have new reasons to avoid pork.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The most intelligent of farm animals, swine raised in the confined feeding operations that now dominate the industry endure the most inhumane conditions. They stand on slatted concrete floors, trampling their waste into gutters below. Most sows still spend nearly their entire lives confined to \"gestation crates,\" metal cages so tiny the animals can't turn around (though this \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2014/01/07/260439063/smithfield-prods-its-pork-suppliers-to-dump-pig-crates\">is changing\u003c/a>.) Sick piglets are killed by being grabbed by their hind legs and slammed against the floor, a practice known as \"thumping.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_98217\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1214px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/16005870734_40a6e97747_o_custom-35581d40e2c1d1c4b0eb330f0762b062fe08902f.jpg\" alt=\"A hog facility in Duplin County, N.C. discharges waste into a manure lagoon, April 2015.\" width=\"1214\" height=\"808\" class=\"size-full wp-image-98217\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/16005870734_40a6e97747_o_custom-35581d40e2c1d1c4b0eb330f0762b062fe08902f.jpg 1214w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/16005870734_40a6e97747_o_custom-35581d40e2c1d1c4b0eb330f0762b062fe08902f-400x266.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/16005870734_40a6e97747_o_custom-35581d40e2c1d1c4b0eb330f0762b062fe08902f-800x532.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/16005870734_40a6e97747_o_custom-35581d40e2c1d1c4b0eb330f0762b062fe08902f-1180x785.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/16005870734_40a6e97747_o_custom-35581d40e2c1d1c4b0eb330f0762b062fe08902f-960x639.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1214px) 100vw, 1214px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A hog facility in Duplin County, N.C. discharges waste into a manure lagoon, April 2015. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Waterkeeper Alliance)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Critiques of such practices, once the concern mostly of animals rights groups, have gone mainstream. This year the restaurant chain Chipotle \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2015/01/16/377760603/chipotles-pulled-pork-highlights-debate-over-sow-welfare\">kept carnitas off the menu\u003c/a> at some locations because it couldn't find enough pork raised according to its stricter welfare standards. Other chains, including McDonald's, still serve conventional pork but have pressured pork suppliers to change their ways. As a result the largest pork producers have vowed to phase out gestation crates.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Smaller producers have taken larger steps, adopting methods that would look familiar to ancient Romans: Their pigs roam on pasture or gobble acorns in the woods. That's the kind of agriculture that might prompt not disgust but enthusiastic cries of, \"Pork! Pork! Pork!\"\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://markessig.com/\">Mark Essig\u003c/a> is the author, most recently, of \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Lesser-Beasts-Snout-Tail-History/dp/0465052746\">Lesser Beasts: A Snout-to-Tail History of the Humble Pig\u003c/a>\u003cem>. He holds a Ph.D. in history from Cornell University and lives in Asheville, N.C.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cem>Copyright 2015 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "As long as pigs have existed, humans have weighed desire for their meat against disgust for how the animals lived and what they ate. Today we have fresh cause for worry about how pigs are living.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>In 1849 an American farmer watched a sow give birth and was moved to record a diary entry: \"Pigs! Pigs! Pork! Pork! Pork!\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The writer's enthusiasm — dug up by historical geographer Sam Bowers Hilliard for \u003ca href=\"http://www.ugapress.org/index.php/books/hog_meat_and_hoecake\">Hog Meat and Hoecake\u003c/a>, his examination of Southern foodways — is understandable. Swine reproduce far more quickly than cows and sheep, thanks to brief gestation periods and large litters, and pork only improves when cured with salt and smoke. If your goal is to produce a great deal of meat and then store it at room temperature — crucial before refrigerators came along — the pig is the animal for you.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Enormously useful as they are, swine have not been universally adored. The history of pigs is a tale of love and loathing. As long as pigs have existed, people have weighed their hunger for meat against worries about how the animals lived and what they ate. And today, we have just as much reason to worry about how pigs are living.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pigs and people have similar digestive systems and similar diets: Both are omnivores who thrive on meat, roots and seeds. It was food that first brought them together. About 10,000 years ago, hunter-gatherers in Anatolia — now Turkey — settled down into villages. Almost immediately, Eurasian wild boars began slinking into town to devour scraps, spoiled grain and rotten fruit. In time, some of those scavenging boars evolved into domestic pigs. \u003cem>Sus scrofa domesticus\u003c/em> was the new species perfectly adapted to living alongside people.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By 1,000 BC, however, our partnership with pigs had soured, a development marked most notably in the Book of Leviticus, which deemed pigs \"unclean.\" The Israelites could eat any beast that \"parteth the hoof, and is clovenfooted, and cheweth the cud.\" Cows, sheep and goats got the nod; pigs did not: \"though he divide the hoof, and be clovenfooted, yet he cheweth not the cud.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_98215\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1436px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/pieter_bruegel_the_elder_-_the_fair_at_hoboken_-_wga03527_custom-bd24cc424da80346e34466b7ec7a634a8917eba7.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/pieter_bruegel_the_elder_-_the_fair_at_hoboken_-_wga03527_custom-bd24cc424da80346e34466b7ec7a634a8917eba7.jpg\" alt=\"As Europe's forests were felled to grow crops, pigs took up residence in towns, as in this 1559 sketch "Fair at Hoboken" by Breugel the Elder. The pig's scavenging habits — which included the occasional human corpse — was one factor in a decline in the reputation of pigs and pork in the late Middle Ages.\" width=\"1436\" height=\"965\" class=\"size-full wp-image-98215\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/pieter_bruegel_the_elder_-_the_fair_at_hoboken_-_wga03527_custom-bd24cc424da80346e34466b7ec7a634a8917eba7.jpg 1436w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/pieter_bruegel_the_elder_-_the_fair_at_hoboken_-_wga03527_custom-bd24cc424da80346e34466b7ec7a634a8917eba7-400x269.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/pieter_bruegel_the_elder_-_the_fair_at_hoboken_-_wga03527_custom-bd24cc424da80346e34466b7ec7a634a8917eba7-800x538.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/pieter_bruegel_the_elder_-_the_fair_at_hoboken_-_wga03527_custom-bd24cc424da80346e34466b7ec7a634a8917eba7-1400x941.jpg 1400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/pieter_bruegel_the_elder_-_the_fair_at_hoboken_-_wga03527_custom-bd24cc424da80346e34466b7ec7a634a8917eba7-1180x793.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/pieter_bruegel_the_elder_-_the_fair_at_hoboken_-_wga03527_custom-bd24cc424da80346e34466b7ec7a634a8917eba7-960x645.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1436px) 100vw, 1436px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">As Europe's forests were felled to grow crops, pigs took up residence in towns, as in this 1559 sketch \"Fair at Hoboken\" by Breugel the Elder. The pig's scavenging habits — which included the occasional human corpse — was one factor in a decline in the reputation of pigs and pork in the late Middle Ages. \u003ccite>(\u003ca href=\"https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Pieter_Bruegel_the_Elder_-_The_Fair_at_Hoboken_-_WGA03527.jpg\">Pieter Bruegel the Elder/via Wikimedia\u003c/a>)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The Koran followed suit in the seventh century AD: \"forbidden to you is ... the flesh of swine.\" Today a quarter of the world's population — 14 million Jews and 1.6 billion Muslims — must avoid pork.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The rules strike many as arbitrary, and there has been no shortage of attempts to expose the supposedly hidden truth. The mostly popular explanation — that the ban protected against trichinosis — is almost \u003ca href=\"https://books.google.com/books?id=WV8WAAAAQBAJ&pg=PA70&lpg=PA70&dq=trichinosis+pork+taboo&source=bl&ots=FwHCxtq-Du&sig=53EDiZvefxTwsT54L5s_fu2YD00&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0CDAQ6AEwBTgKahUKEwjFquP2iePGAhWCvYAKHVOJAvw#v=onepage&q=trichinosis%20pork%20taboo&f=false\">certainly untrue\u003c/a> (there's no evidence the parasite existed in ancient Palestine, and other meats could be equally dangerous). Some scholars point to the unsuitability of pigs for desert conditions, or the fact that pigs and humans might compete for food. Others suggest that poor people could raise pigs at home and thereby gain control of their own food supply; rulers, intent on total control, banned pigs so the poor would be hungry unless fed by the state.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_98222\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/pigsty.jpg\" alt=\"This Chinese sculpture, dating to about 200 AD, depicts an outhouse perched over a pigsty. All over the world pigs ate human waste, carrion, and rotting garbage, a dietary habit that made them quite useful—they cleaned the streets and transformed filth into meat—but also turned them into pariahs.\" width=\"400\" height=\"356\" class=\"size-full wp-image-98222\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">This Chinese sculpture, dating to about 200 AD, depicts an outhouse perched over a pigsty. All over the world pigs ate human waste, carrion, and rotting garbage, a dietary habit that made them quite useful—they cleaned the streets and transformed filth into meat—but also turned them into pariahs. \u003ccite>(\u003ca href=\"https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Green_glazed_toilet_with_pigsty_model._Eastern_Han_dynasty_25_-_220_CE.jpg\">via Wikimedia\u003c/a>)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>All of these theories hold a piece of the truth, but the best explanation lies in Leviticus. The approved animals \"chew the cud,\" which is another way of saying they are ruminants that eat grass. Pigs \"cheweth not the cud\" because they possess simple guts, unable to digest cellulose. They eat calorie-dense foods, not only nuts and grains but also less salubrious items such as carrion, human corpses and feces. Pigs were unclean because they ate filth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Jews were not alone in this prejudice. In the great civilizations of Mesopotamia and Egypt, priests and rulers avoided pork at all costs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Just across the Mediterranean, however, the Romans loved swine with a passion matched by few people before or since. Romans sacrificed pigs to their gods and created an elaborate pork-based cuisine, including some dishes—such as roast udder of lactating sow—that could make even a gentile shudder.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What accounts for these differing views? In the Near East, an arid land, most pigs lived as urban scavengers. The Italian Peninsula, by contrast, boasted vast oak forests, and Rome imported wheat by the shipload. Rather than eating garbage in the streets, Roman pigs spent their days dining on acorns and grain.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The reputation of pork depends upon the life of the pig. In early medieval Europe, when most pigs foraged in the woods, pork was the preferred meat of the nobility. By 1300 most forests had been felled, and pigs became scavengers. In a medieval British text, a woman explains that she won't serve pork because pigs \"eat human shit in the streets.\" Pigs also dined on human flesh, which was available because executed prisoners, among others, were left unburied. In Shakespeare's \u003cem>Richard III\u003c/em>, the title character is described as a \"foul swine\" who \"Swills your warm blood like wash, and makes his trough / In your embowell'd bosoms.\" An Irish religious text noted, \"Cows feed only on grass and the leaves of trees, but swine eat things clean and unclean.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pigs today eat a wholesome diet of corn and soybeans, but people have new reasons to avoid pork.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The most intelligent of farm animals, swine raised in the confined feeding operations that now dominate the industry endure the most inhumane conditions. They stand on slatted concrete floors, trampling their waste into gutters below. Most sows still spend nearly their entire lives confined to \"gestation crates,\" metal cages so tiny the animals can't turn around (though this \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2014/01/07/260439063/smithfield-prods-its-pork-suppliers-to-dump-pig-crates\">is changing\u003c/a>.) Sick piglets are killed by being grabbed by their hind legs and slammed against the floor, a practice known as \"thumping.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_98217\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1214px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/16005870734_40a6e97747_o_custom-35581d40e2c1d1c4b0eb330f0762b062fe08902f.jpg\" alt=\"A hog facility in Duplin County, N.C. discharges waste into a manure lagoon, April 2015.\" width=\"1214\" height=\"808\" class=\"size-full wp-image-98217\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/16005870734_40a6e97747_o_custom-35581d40e2c1d1c4b0eb330f0762b062fe08902f.jpg 1214w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/16005870734_40a6e97747_o_custom-35581d40e2c1d1c4b0eb330f0762b062fe08902f-400x266.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/16005870734_40a6e97747_o_custom-35581d40e2c1d1c4b0eb330f0762b062fe08902f-800x532.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/16005870734_40a6e97747_o_custom-35581d40e2c1d1c4b0eb330f0762b062fe08902f-1180x785.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/16005870734_40a6e97747_o_custom-35581d40e2c1d1c4b0eb330f0762b062fe08902f-960x639.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1214px) 100vw, 1214px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A hog facility in Duplin County, N.C. discharges waste into a manure lagoon, April 2015. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Waterkeeper Alliance)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Critiques of such practices, once the concern mostly of animals rights groups, have gone mainstream. This year the restaurant chain Chipotle \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2015/01/16/377760603/chipotles-pulled-pork-highlights-debate-over-sow-welfare\">kept carnitas off the menu\u003c/a> at some locations because it couldn't find enough pork raised according to its stricter welfare standards. Other chains, including McDonald's, still serve conventional pork but have pressured pork suppliers to change their ways. As a result the largest pork producers have vowed to phase out gestation crates.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Smaller producers have taken larger steps, adopting methods that would look familiar to ancient Romans: Their pigs roam on pasture or gobble acorns in the woods. That's the kind of agriculture that might prompt not disgust but enthusiastic cries of, \"Pork! Pork! Pork!\"\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://markessig.com/\">Mark Essig\u003c/a> is the author, most recently, of \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Lesser-Beasts-Snout-Tail-History/dp/0465052746\">Lesser Beasts: A Snout-to-Tail History of the Humble Pig\u003c/a>\u003cem>. He holds a Ph.D. in history from Cornell University and lives in Asheville, N.C.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cem>Copyright 2015 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "How A Bay Area 11-Year-Old Invented The Popsicle",
"title": "How A Bay Area 11-Year-Old Invented The Popsicle",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>The Bay Area’s love affair with ice cream has a long history. In 1928, an enterprising soul invented the It’s It ice cream sandwich and sold it at San Francisco’s \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Playland_(San_Francisco)\" target=\"_blank\">Playland-at-the-Beach\u003c/a>, and it soon became a Bay Area icon. Swensen's and Mitchell’s ice cream parlors have battled it out for ice cream parlor dominance since the 1950’s, with each attracting a loyal following. And now, there’s ice cream of \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2015/07/01/bay-area-bites-guide-to-7-favorite-east-bay-soft-serve-spots/\" target=\"_blank\">every style\u003c/a> and flavor available, whether you’re craving a simple \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/search?find_desc=ube+ice+cream&find_loc=San+Francisco%2C+CA\" target=\"_blank\">scoop of ube\u003c/a>, or a creamy cup of salted caramel created with \u003ca href=\"http://smittenicecream.com/\" target=\"_blank\">liquid nitrogen\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Bay Area also happens to be the birthplace of another frozen treat: the Popsicle. In 1905, 11-year-old Frank Epperson mixed some sugary soda powder with water and left the mixture out overnight. (Epperson’s location is debated: some sources, include his \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/1983/10/27/obituaries/frank-epperson-89-inventor-of-popsicle-dies-in-california.html\" target=\"_blank\">Associated Press obituary\u003c/a> say he grew up in San Francisco, but \u003ca href=\"http://www.history.com/news/hungry-history/frozen-history-the-story-of-the-popsicle\" target=\"_blank\">others \u003c/a>say he lived in Oakland). It was a cold night, and the mixture froze. In the morning, Epperson devoured the icy concoction, licking it off the wooden stirrer. He declared it an Epsicle, a portmanteau of icicle and his name, and started selling the treat around his neighborhood.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_98183\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/edited3.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-98183\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/edited3-800x450.jpg\" alt=\"A 1917 ad for Alameda's Neptune Beach Source: Alamedainfo.com\" width=\"800\" height=\"450\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/edited3-800x450.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/edited3-400x225.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/edited3-1440x810.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/edited3-1400x788.jpg 1400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/edited3-1180x664.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/edited3-960x540.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A 1917 ad for Alameda's Neptune Beach Source: Alamedainfo.com \u003ccite>(Alamedainfo.com)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In 1923, Epperson decided to expand sales beyond his neighborhood. He started selling the treat at \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Neptune_Beach_(California)\" target=\"_blank\">Neptune Beach,\u003c/a> an amusement park on the coast of Alameda. Dubbed a “West Coast Coney Island,” the park featured roller coasters, baseball, and an Olympic-sized swimming pool. Neptune flourished in the pre-Depression days, and consumers eagerly consumed epsicles and snow cones (which also made their debut at Neptune).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Buoyed by this success, Epperson applied for \u003ca href=\"http://www.google.com/patents/US1505592\" target=\"_blank\">a patent\u003c/a> for his “frozen confection of attractive appearance, which can be conveniently consumed without contamination by contact with the hand and without the need for a plate, spoon, fork or other implement” at the Oakland courthouse in 1924. The patent illustrates the requirements for a perfect ice pop, including recommendations on the best wood for the stick: wood-bass, birch, and poplar. Eventually, Epperson’s children urged him to change the ice pop’s name to what they called it: a Pop’s ‘Sicle, or popsicle.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_98185\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/edited.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-98185\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/edited-800x1176.jpg\" alt='The patent Frank Epperson filed in 1924 for his \"Frozen confectionery\" Source: United States Patent and Trademark Office' width=\"800\" height=\"1176\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/edited-800x1176.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/edited-400x588.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/edited-1440x2117.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/edited-1400x2058.jpg 1400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/edited-1180x1734.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/edited-960x1411.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The patent Frank Epperson filed in 1924 for his \"Frozen confectionery\" Source: United States Patent and Trademark Office \u003ccite>(United States Patent and Trademark Office)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Epperson’s charming yet unverifiable origin story has since become a quaint urban legend, but it didn’t have a happy ending for the inventor. A broke Epperson sold the rights to his creation to the Joe Lowe Company in 1929, much to his regret: \"I was flat and had to liquidate all my assets,\" he later said. \"I haven't been the same since.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Lowe Company went on to catapult Epperson’s invention to national success. During the Great Depression, the company debuted the \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/1987/06/07/nyregion/follow-up-on-the-news-saying-goodbye-to-twin-popsicle.html\" target=\"_blank\">two stick popsicle \u003c/a>to help consumers stretch their dollar, selling the duo for five cents. The company also faced competition from \u003ca href=\"http://www.goodhumor.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Good Humor\u003c/a>--who had recently debuted its chocolate-covered ice cream on a stick--and were sued for \u003ca href=\"http://www.archives.gov/publications/prologue/2005/spring/popsicle-1.html\" target=\"_blank\">copyright infringement\u003c/a>. The court’s compromise? Popsicle could sell water-based treats, and Good Humor could sell ice cream pops. Popsicle tested the limits of the agreement, selling a “Milk Popsicle,” and the two companies tussled in court about the definitions of sherbert and ice cream over the years through a series of lawsuits.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The giant food corporation Unilever bought the Popsicle brand in 1989 and further expanded by introducing more options than the original fruit flavors. They also bought Good Humor, ending the feud between the two companies. Over the years, Epperson’s childhood invention achieved icon status, entry into the pantheon of American consumerism where a certain brand’s product become the default term for the item, a la Xerox or Kleenex. Also over the years, Unilever has worked to keep the name Popsicle theirs and theirs alone: in 2010, they \u003ca href=\"http://www.theatlantic.com/health/archive/2010/07/dont-use-the-p-word-a-popsicle-showdown/59412/\" target=\"_blank\">threatened legal action \u003c/a>against artisan Brooklyn ice pop makers People’s Pops for using the word “popsicle” on their blog.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uiXzcqgRCfI\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Things have changed since Epperson debuted his invention almost a century ago. Today, Neptune Beach is nothing more than \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jg88HXY_eA0\" target=\"_blank\">a mural\u003c/a> in a shopping center. There are a \u003ca href=\"http://www.popsicle.com/product\" target=\"_blank\">dizzying amount of Popsicle choices\u003c/a> on the market: Mystery Middle popsicles, Slow Melt Mighty Mini popsicles, and Frozen popsicles (\"Pretend your pop is a microphone and belt, 'Let it gooo!'\").\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But despite the changes, his unhappy exit from the company and his death in 1983, Epperson’s invention--and his apocryphal origin story--continues to charm. He’s buried in Oakland’s Mountain View Cemetery, where he’s featured \u003ca href=\"http://www.mountainviewcemetery.org/tour-cemetery-oakland-ca.html\" target=\"_blank\">on a tour \u003c/a>celebrating food luminaries along with chocolate mogul Domingo Ghirardelli and mai tai inventor Victor \"Trader Vic\" Bergeron. His story has been repeated everywhere, from the official Popsicle website--where it’s illustrated \u003ca href=\"http://www.popsicle.com/campaigns/popsicle-story/\" target=\"_blank\">in comic form\u003c/a>--to an inspirational \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Walking-Your-Own-Shoes-Direction/dp/B003V1WDUA\" target=\"_blank\">Christian self-help book \u003c/a>about trusting in God’s grand plan for your life. His childhood invention, born randomly on a freezing night, has also proved to be even more successful than he could have imagined: today, the company sells two billion Popsicles every year.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>The Bay Area’s love affair with ice cream has a long history. In 1928, an enterprising soul invented the It’s It ice cream sandwich and sold it at San Francisco’s \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Playland_(San_Francisco)\" target=\"_blank\">Playland-at-the-Beach\u003c/a>, and it soon became a Bay Area icon. Swensen's and Mitchell’s ice cream parlors have battled it out for ice cream parlor dominance since the 1950’s, with each attracting a loyal following. And now, there’s ice cream of \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2015/07/01/bay-area-bites-guide-to-7-favorite-east-bay-soft-serve-spots/\" target=\"_blank\">every style\u003c/a> and flavor available, whether you’re craving a simple \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/search?find_desc=ube+ice+cream&find_loc=San+Francisco%2C+CA\" target=\"_blank\">scoop of ube\u003c/a>, or a creamy cup of salted caramel created with \u003ca href=\"http://smittenicecream.com/\" target=\"_blank\">liquid nitrogen\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Bay Area also happens to be the birthplace of another frozen treat: the Popsicle. In 1905, 11-year-old Frank Epperson mixed some sugary soda powder with water and left the mixture out overnight. (Epperson’s location is debated: some sources, include his \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/1983/10/27/obituaries/frank-epperson-89-inventor-of-popsicle-dies-in-california.html\" target=\"_blank\">Associated Press obituary\u003c/a> say he grew up in San Francisco, but \u003ca href=\"http://www.history.com/news/hungry-history/frozen-history-the-story-of-the-popsicle\" target=\"_blank\">others \u003c/a>say he lived in Oakland). It was a cold night, and the mixture froze. In the morning, Epperson devoured the icy concoction, licking it off the wooden stirrer. He declared it an Epsicle, a portmanteau of icicle and his name, and started selling the treat around his neighborhood.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_98183\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/edited3.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-98183\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/edited3-800x450.jpg\" alt=\"A 1917 ad for Alameda's Neptune Beach Source: Alamedainfo.com\" width=\"800\" height=\"450\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/edited3-800x450.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/edited3-400x225.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/edited3-1440x810.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/edited3-1400x788.jpg 1400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/edited3-1180x664.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/edited3-960x540.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A 1917 ad for Alameda's Neptune Beach Source: Alamedainfo.com \u003ccite>(Alamedainfo.com)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In 1923, Epperson decided to expand sales beyond his neighborhood. He started selling the treat at \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Neptune_Beach_(California)\" target=\"_blank\">Neptune Beach,\u003c/a> an amusement park on the coast of Alameda. Dubbed a “West Coast Coney Island,” the park featured roller coasters, baseball, and an Olympic-sized swimming pool. Neptune flourished in the pre-Depression days, and consumers eagerly consumed epsicles and snow cones (which also made their debut at Neptune).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Buoyed by this success, Epperson applied for \u003ca href=\"http://www.google.com/patents/US1505592\" target=\"_blank\">a patent\u003c/a> for his “frozen confection of attractive appearance, which can be conveniently consumed without contamination by contact with the hand and without the need for a plate, spoon, fork or other implement” at the Oakland courthouse in 1924. The patent illustrates the requirements for a perfect ice pop, including recommendations on the best wood for the stick: wood-bass, birch, and poplar. Eventually, Epperson’s children urged him to change the ice pop’s name to what they called it: a Pop’s ‘Sicle, or popsicle.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_98185\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/edited.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-98185\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/edited-800x1176.jpg\" alt='The patent Frank Epperson filed in 1924 for his \"Frozen confectionery\" Source: United States Patent and Trademark Office' width=\"800\" height=\"1176\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/edited-800x1176.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/edited-400x588.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/edited-1440x2117.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/edited-1400x2058.jpg 1400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/edited-1180x1734.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/edited-960x1411.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The patent Frank Epperson filed in 1924 for his \"Frozen confectionery\" Source: United States Patent and Trademark Office \u003ccite>(United States Patent and Trademark Office)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Epperson’s charming yet unverifiable origin story has since become a quaint urban legend, but it didn’t have a happy ending for the inventor. A broke Epperson sold the rights to his creation to the Joe Lowe Company in 1929, much to his regret: \"I was flat and had to liquidate all my assets,\" he later said. \"I haven't been the same since.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Lowe Company went on to catapult Epperson’s invention to national success. During the Great Depression, the company debuted the \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/1987/06/07/nyregion/follow-up-on-the-news-saying-goodbye-to-twin-popsicle.html\" target=\"_blank\">two stick popsicle \u003c/a>to help consumers stretch their dollar, selling the duo for five cents. The company also faced competition from \u003ca href=\"http://www.goodhumor.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Good Humor\u003c/a>--who had recently debuted its chocolate-covered ice cream on a stick--and were sued for \u003ca href=\"http://www.archives.gov/publications/prologue/2005/spring/popsicle-1.html\" target=\"_blank\">copyright infringement\u003c/a>. The court’s compromise? Popsicle could sell water-based treats, and Good Humor could sell ice cream pops. Popsicle tested the limits of the agreement, selling a “Milk Popsicle,” and the two companies tussled in court about the definitions of sherbert and ice cream over the years through a series of lawsuits.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The giant food corporation Unilever bought the Popsicle brand in 1989 and further expanded by introducing more options than the original fruit flavors. They also bought Good Humor, ending the feud between the two companies. Over the years, Epperson’s childhood invention achieved icon status, entry into the pantheon of American consumerism where a certain brand’s product become the default term for the item, a la Xerox or Kleenex. Also over the years, Unilever has worked to keep the name Popsicle theirs and theirs alone: in 2010, they \u003ca href=\"http://www.theatlantic.com/health/archive/2010/07/dont-use-the-p-word-a-popsicle-showdown/59412/\" target=\"_blank\">threatened legal action \u003c/a>against artisan Brooklyn ice pop makers People’s Pops for using the word “popsicle” on their blog.\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/uiXzcqgRCfI'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/uiXzcqgRCfI'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cp>Things have changed since Epperson debuted his invention almost a century ago. Today, Neptune Beach is nothing more than \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jg88HXY_eA0\" target=\"_blank\">a mural\u003c/a> in a shopping center. There are a \u003ca href=\"http://www.popsicle.com/product\" target=\"_blank\">dizzying amount of Popsicle choices\u003c/a> on the market: Mystery Middle popsicles, Slow Melt Mighty Mini popsicles, and Frozen popsicles (\"Pretend your pop is a microphone and belt, 'Let it gooo!'\").\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But despite the changes, his unhappy exit from the company and his death in 1983, Epperson’s invention--and his apocryphal origin story--continues to charm. He’s buried in Oakland’s Mountain View Cemetery, where he’s featured \u003ca href=\"http://www.mountainviewcemetery.org/tour-cemetery-oakland-ca.html\" target=\"_blank\">on a tour \u003c/a>celebrating food luminaries along with chocolate mogul Domingo Ghirardelli and mai tai inventor Victor \"Trader Vic\" Bergeron. His story has been repeated everywhere, from the official Popsicle website--where it’s illustrated \u003ca href=\"http://www.popsicle.com/campaigns/popsicle-story/\" target=\"_blank\">in comic form\u003c/a>--to an inspirational \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Walking-Your-Own-Shoes-Direction/dp/B003V1WDUA\" target=\"_blank\">Christian self-help book \u003c/a>about trusting in God’s grand plan for your life. His childhood invention, born randomly on a freezing night, has also proved to be even more successful than he could have imagined: today, the company sells two billion Popsicles every year.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "The Ramadan Breakfast Of Champions To Get You Through A Day's Fast",
"title": "The Ramadan Breakfast Of Champions To Get You Through A Day's Fast",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story on Weekend Edition Sunday:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nhttp://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/wesun/2015/07/20150712_wesun_the_ramadan_breakfast_of_champions_to_get_you_through_a_days_fast.mp3\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We're coming up on the final week of the month of Ramadan. It's the time of year when observant Muslims avoid all food and drink during the holy month's daylight hours — if they're able.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When Ramadan falls during the height of summer — as it does this year — that's a lot of hours. So what's the best thing to eat to prepare you for a long fast?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The pre-dawn breakfast meal — \u003cem>suhoor\u003c/em>— varies quite a bit. What you serve for \u003cem>suhoor \u003c/em>depends upon whether you're from the Middle East or Malaysia or the U.S., and whether you're ravenous in the morning or still a little ill from overindulging at last night's \u003cem>iftar,\u003c/em> the Ramadan evening meal.\u003cem> \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Suhoor \u003c/em>tables are spread with everything from leftovers to a dish of \u003ca href=\"http://www.saveur.com/article/Recipes/Classic-Stewed-Fava-Beans\">stewed fava beans\u003c/a> called ful medames to hard-boiled eggs to chia seed smoothies. But no matter what you're feeling in the mood for (and can stomach early in the morning), there are a few guidelines for the most sustaining meal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_97880\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/suhoor.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/suhoor.jpg\" alt=\"Suhoor tables sometimes feature a dish of stewed fava beans called ful medames.\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" class=\"size-full wp-image-97880\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Suhoor tables sometimes feature a dish of stewed fava beans called ful medames. \u003ccite>(\u003ca href=\"https://www.flickr.com/photos/eltpics/5159438924/\">Eltpics/Flickr\u003c/a>)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://nourzibdeh.com/\">Nour Zibdeh\u003c/a> is a dietician and nutritionist in Herdon, Va., who advises many fasting patients (and observes Ramadan herself). She recommends \u003cem>suhoor\u003c/em> dishes with protein, healthy fats, and fiber — as well as smoothies, fruits and water. You want to be satiated and hydrated. But, as Zibdeh notes, even the best \u003cem>suhoor\u003c/em> has its limitations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"There's no meal that will hold anyone for 16 hours. That's just basic physiology,\" Zibdeh explains. \"After 6-8 hours, the body uses up all the glucose it obtained from a meal, and then it starts to go into its glycogen.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And after your body burns through these stores of sugar in the liver and muscles, it keeps on going.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"After 10 hours, the body even runs out from this energy reservoir, and it has to tap into the fat stores.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For those looking to lose weight, burning through stored fat might not sound so bad. Zibdeh points out there are benefits — some of the same reasons studies have come out in support of \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2015/01/12/376712920/minifasting-how-occasionally-skipping-meals-may-boost-health\">intermittent fasting\u003c/a>. In addition to burning fat, the time without food gives your intestines a chance to empty, and your stomach a chance to shrink. And just as importantly, Zibdeh says, fasting cuts out the habit of mindless eating.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I eliminate mindless eating when I'm fasting,\" Zibdeh says. \"You can't lick your finger, you can't take your kids' food, you can't do any of those things.\" Zibdeh says that many of these eating habits can persist beyond the end of Ramadan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And it's more than just food behaviors that change.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Manar Alattar observes the Ramadan fast from her home in Portland, Ore. Like many observant Muslims, she tries to eliminate more than just food. \"We're really taught to clean out our behavioral closet, or whatever you want to think about it as — the bad habits.\" That, she says, laughing, \"is a a little bit \u003cem>even\u003c/em> more difficult if you're hungry, and grumpy.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Over a \u003cem>suhoor\u003c/em> meal of date smoothies, leftover frittat, and warmed granola, Alattar's husband, Mohamed Abdelkader, notes that doing the hard work of fasting can ready you for the hard work that you need to do internally. \"You have to push yourself to change. And that's what fasting does. So it's a practical Islam teaching.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And though it's difficult — even with a good breakfast — this work is what Ramadan is about.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The prophet Mohammed, peace be upon him, said if you don't leave bad speech and bad actions, then God has no need for you to leave food and drink,\" Alattar says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's up to each individual Muslim to figure out how long bad speech and bad actions will be abandoned, and the behavioral closet can stay clean. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cem>Copyright 2015 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Ramadan this year falls in the height of summer when days are longest. Many observant Muslims are fasting 16 hours a day or longer, so their pre-dawn breakfast needs to be hydrating and satiating.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story on Weekend Edition Sunday:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nhttp://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/wesun/2015/07/20150712_wesun_the_ramadan_breakfast_of_champions_to_get_you_through_a_days_fast.mp3\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We're coming up on the final week of the month of Ramadan. It's the time of year when observant Muslims avoid all food and drink during the holy month's daylight hours — if they're able.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When Ramadan falls during the height of summer — as it does this year — that's a lot of hours. So what's the best thing to eat to prepare you for a long fast?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The pre-dawn breakfast meal — \u003cem>suhoor\u003c/em>— varies quite a bit. What you serve for \u003cem>suhoor \u003c/em>depends upon whether you're from the Middle East or Malaysia or the U.S., and whether you're ravenous in the morning or still a little ill from overindulging at last night's \u003cem>iftar,\u003c/em> the Ramadan evening meal.\u003cem> \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Suhoor \u003c/em>tables are spread with everything from leftovers to a dish of \u003ca href=\"http://www.saveur.com/article/Recipes/Classic-Stewed-Fava-Beans\">stewed fava beans\u003c/a> called ful medames to hard-boiled eggs to chia seed smoothies. But no matter what you're feeling in the mood for (and can stomach early in the morning), there are a few guidelines for the most sustaining meal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_97880\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/suhoor.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/suhoor.jpg\" alt=\"Suhoor tables sometimes feature a dish of stewed fava beans called ful medames.\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" class=\"size-full wp-image-97880\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Suhoor tables sometimes feature a dish of stewed fava beans called ful medames. \u003ccite>(\u003ca href=\"https://www.flickr.com/photos/eltpics/5159438924/\">Eltpics/Flickr\u003c/a>)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://nourzibdeh.com/\">Nour Zibdeh\u003c/a> is a dietician and nutritionist in Herdon, Va., who advises many fasting patients (and observes Ramadan herself). She recommends \u003cem>suhoor\u003c/em> dishes with protein, healthy fats, and fiber — as well as smoothies, fruits and water. You want to be satiated and hydrated. But, as Zibdeh notes, even the best \u003cem>suhoor\u003c/em> has its limitations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"There's no meal that will hold anyone for 16 hours. That's just basic physiology,\" Zibdeh explains. \"After 6-8 hours, the body uses up all the glucose it obtained from a meal, and then it starts to go into its glycogen.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And after your body burns through these stores of sugar in the liver and muscles, it keeps on going.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"After 10 hours, the body even runs out from this energy reservoir, and it has to tap into the fat stores.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For those looking to lose weight, burning through stored fat might not sound so bad. Zibdeh points out there are benefits — some of the same reasons studies have come out in support of \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2015/01/12/376712920/minifasting-how-occasionally-skipping-meals-may-boost-health\">intermittent fasting\u003c/a>. In addition to burning fat, the time without food gives your intestines a chance to empty, and your stomach a chance to shrink. And just as importantly, Zibdeh says, fasting cuts out the habit of mindless eating.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I eliminate mindless eating when I'm fasting,\" Zibdeh says. \"You can't lick your finger, you can't take your kids' food, you can't do any of those things.\" Zibdeh says that many of these eating habits can persist beyond the end of Ramadan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And it's more than just food behaviors that change.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Manar Alattar observes the Ramadan fast from her home in Portland, Ore. Like many observant Muslims, she tries to eliminate more than just food. \"We're really taught to clean out our behavioral closet, or whatever you want to think about it as — the bad habits.\" That, she says, laughing, \"is a a little bit \u003cem>even\u003c/em> more difficult if you're hungry, and grumpy.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Over a \u003cem>suhoor\u003c/em> meal of date smoothies, leftover frittat, and warmed granola, Alattar's husband, Mohamed Abdelkader, notes that doing the hard work of fasting can ready you for the hard work that you need to do internally. \"You have to push yourself to change. And that's what fasting does. So it's a practical Islam teaching.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And though it's difficult — even with a good breakfast — this work is what Ramadan is about.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The prophet Mohammed, peace be upon him, said if you don't leave bad speech and bad actions, then God has no need for you to leave food and drink,\" Alattar says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's up to each individual Muslim to figure out how long bad speech and bad actions will be abandoned, and the behavioral closet can stay clean. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cem>Copyright 2015 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "'The Fried Chicken Capital': Where Racial Progress Began Along The Rails",
"title": "'The Fried Chicken Capital': Where Racial Progress Began Along The Rails",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>Fried chicken is a \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/codeswitch/2013/05/22/186087397/where-did-that-fried-chicken-stereotype-come-from\">racially fraught food\u003c/a>. Historically, it's been associated with racist depictions of African-Americans, and today, some still wield the fried-chicken-eating stereotype as an insult. But in some cases, the food itself has provided a path toward financial freedom for blacks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Take the town of Gordonsville, Va., for example. As Lauren Ober of NPR member station WAMU \u003ca href=\"http://wamu.org/programs/metro_connection/15/07/03/how_gordonsville_virginia_became_the_world_capital_of_fried_chicken\">recently reported\u003c/a>, in the latter half of the 1800s, the town gained fame as the \"Fried Chicken Capital of the World.\" And the reasons why date back to the rise of the railroad.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By the time the Civil War broke out, the town was a main stop on two rail lines. It was also a major \u003ca href=\"http://www.encyclopediavirginia.org/Gordonsville_During_the_Civil_War#start_entry\">transportation hub\u003c/a> for produce coming from Virginia's Shenandoah Valley.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But those trains didn't have dining cars, and local African-American women found a business opportunity in hungry passengers. The women would cook up fried chicken, biscuits, pies and other tasty goods and sell it from the train platform, passing it over to passengers through the open windows.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_97783\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 858px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/gvillewaitercarriersphoto_custom-8ce8619a04b61808aa2d6f4aa37f7f766ec198f2.jpg\" alt=\"Waiter carriers sell their wares along the platform. According to Williams-Forson's book, Bella Winston's mother is one of the women pictured in this photo.\" width=\"858\" height=\"623\" class=\"size-full wp-image-97783\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/gvillewaitercarriersphoto_custom-8ce8619a04b61808aa2d6f4aa37f7f766ec198f2.jpg 858w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/gvillewaitercarriersphoto_custom-8ce8619a04b61808aa2d6f4aa37f7f766ec198f2-400x290.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/gvillewaitercarriersphoto_custom-8ce8619a04b61808aa2d6f4aa37f7f766ec198f2-800x581.jpg 800w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 858px) 100vw, 858px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Waiter carriers sell their wares along the platform. According to Williams-Forson's book, Bella Winston's mother is one of the women pictured in this photo. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of the Town of Gordonsville )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>These vendors, known as waiter carriers because they had to transport the food a long way to get to the station, developed a reputation for their culinary skills, according to \u003ca href=\"http://amst.umd.edu/people/faculty/psyche-williams-forson/\">Psyche Williams-Forson\u003c/a>, an associate professor of American Studies at the University of Maryland.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Some people would deliberately chart their way through Gordonsville because they knew they would encounter these women and those particular foodstuffs,\" Williams-Forson tells Ober.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the waiter carriers of Gordonsville, fried chicken became an avenue of economic empowerment after the Civil War. The title of Williams-Forson's \u003ca href=\"http://uncpress.unc.edu/browse/book_detail?title_id=1400\">2006 book\u003c/a>, \u003cem>Building Houses Out of Chicken Legs: Black Women, Food and Power,\u003c/em> is a nod to this entrepreneurial legacy: Bella Winston, an 80-year-old former waiter carrier, who learned the trade from her mother, told a local newspaper in 1970, \"My mother paid for this place with chicken legs.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That degree of economic independence was rare for African-Americans post-emancipation, Gordonsville Mayor Bob Coiner tells Ober:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"At the end of the Civil War, when we have new freedoms for people, they're put in a position where they need jobs,\" says Coiner, whose family has lived in Gordonsville for many generations. \"The situation was bad before, but you could count on the situation. Now it was a big unknown.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The waiter carriers were part of a larger tradition of African-American women who found economic independence — in some cases even \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2013/02/10/171663336/meet-the-calas-a-new-orleans-treat-that-helped-free-slaves\">buying their own freedom\u003c/a> — through their cooking skills. Indeed, one of the first cookbooks published by a black woman in America was \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2015/06/02/411518221/slavery-famine-and-the-politics-of-pie-what-civil-war-recipes-reveal\">put out\u003c/a> by an ex-slave woman in 1881.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Williams-Forson writes that the historical record is sparse when it comes to Gordonsville's fried chicken vendors. But, she tells Ober, \"I think it's important to talk about it, because it reflects some level of agency that some African-Americans were able to exhibit during that horrible institution.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, fried chicken is a particularly racially charged dish. To wit: the\u003ca href=\"http://depts.washington.edu/civilr/coon_chicken.htm\"> Coon Chicken Inn\u003c/a>, a restaurant chain begun in Salt Lake City, Utah, in 1925, that was popular for its fried chicken. The decor was as racist as the name. The caricature of a black man with grotesquely oversized red, open, smiling lips, a porter's hat askew on his head, was ubiquitous: on silverware, menus, matchbooks and other advertising. Customers had to walk through a giant version of those grinning lips to enter the restaurants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Back in those days ... it wasn't nothing to see [such] mockery. Black folks was always being mocked,\" according to former headwaiter Roy Hawkins, whose recollections of working there appear in Williams-Forson's book.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hawkins said he had to endure customer insults, but it was lucrative work: He'd bring home $100 to $200 a night in tips, at a time when bricklayers earned $5 a day. As Hawkins \u003ca href=\"http://archive.sltrib.com/article.php?id=3951441&itype=NGPSID\">told\u003c/a> \u003cem>The Salt Lake Tribune\u003c/em>\u003cem> \u003c/em>in 2006, he ended up \"laughing all the way to the bank.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As for the waiter carriers of Gordonsville, their trade disappeared in the first half of the 20th century, as dining cars were added to trains and government regulations cracked down on track-side food vendors. But their legacy lives on in Gordonsville, which \u003ca href=\"http://www.fredericksburg.com/featuresfood/chicken-tradition-gordonsville-may-be-known-as-the-fried-chicken/article_f6b21b7e-dbb7-5be5-a3d8-808b6469ffd6.html\">hosts\u003c/a> an annual fried chicken contest.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Lauren Ober's \u003ca href=\"http://wamu.org/programs/metro_connection/15/07/03/how_gordonsville_virginia_became_the_world_capital_of_fried_chicken\">report\u003c/a> on Gordonsville's fried chicken tradition aired on member station WAMU in Washington, D.C. You can listen to a longer version of that story, which details other ways that African-American women have found economic empowerment through food, \u003ca href=\"https://www.southernfoodways.org/gravy/fried-chicken-a-complicated-comfort-food-gravy-ep-16/\">from Gravy\u003c/a>, the podcast from the Southern Foodways Alliance.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2015 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Fried chicken is a \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/codeswitch/2013/05/22/186087397/where-did-that-fried-chicken-stereotype-come-from\">racially fraught food\u003c/a>. Historically, it's been associated with racist depictions of African-Americans, and today, some still wield the fried-chicken-eating stereotype as an insult. But in some cases, the food itself has provided a path toward financial freedom for blacks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Take the town of Gordonsville, Va., for example. As Lauren Ober of NPR member station WAMU \u003ca href=\"http://wamu.org/programs/metro_connection/15/07/03/how_gordonsville_virginia_became_the_world_capital_of_fried_chicken\">recently reported\u003c/a>, in the latter half of the 1800s, the town gained fame as the \"Fried Chicken Capital of the World.\" And the reasons why date back to the rise of the railroad.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By the time the Civil War broke out, the town was a main stop on two rail lines. It was also a major \u003ca href=\"http://www.encyclopediavirginia.org/Gordonsville_During_the_Civil_War#start_entry\">transportation hub\u003c/a> for produce coming from Virginia's Shenandoah Valley.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But those trains didn't have dining cars, and local African-American women found a business opportunity in hungry passengers. The women would cook up fried chicken, biscuits, pies and other tasty goods and sell it from the train platform, passing it over to passengers through the open windows.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_97783\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 858px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/gvillewaitercarriersphoto_custom-8ce8619a04b61808aa2d6f4aa37f7f766ec198f2.jpg\" alt=\"Waiter carriers sell their wares along the platform. According to Williams-Forson's book, Bella Winston's mother is one of the women pictured in this photo.\" width=\"858\" height=\"623\" class=\"size-full wp-image-97783\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/gvillewaitercarriersphoto_custom-8ce8619a04b61808aa2d6f4aa37f7f766ec198f2.jpg 858w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/gvillewaitercarriersphoto_custom-8ce8619a04b61808aa2d6f4aa37f7f766ec198f2-400x290.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/gvillewaitercarriersphoto_custom-8ce8619a04b61808aa2d6f4aa37f7f766ec198f2-800x581.jpg 800w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 858px) 100vw, 858px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Waiter carriers sell their wares along the platform. According to Williams-Forson's book, Bella Winston's mother is one of the women pictured in this photo. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of the Town of Gordonsville )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>These vendors, known as waiter carriers because they had to transport the food a long way to get to the station, developed a reputation for their culinary skills, according to \u003ca href=\"http://amst.umd.edu/people/faculty/psyche-williams-forson/\">Psyche Williams-Forson\u003c/a>, an associate professor of American Studies at the University of Maryland.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Some people would deliberately chart their way through Gordonsville because they knew they would encounter these women and those particular foodstuffs,\" Williams-Forson tells Ober.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the waiter carriers of Gordonsville, fried chicken became an avenue of economic empowerment after the Civil War. The title of Williams-Forson's \u003ca href=\"http://uncpress.unc.edu/browse/book_detail?title_id=1400\">2006 book\u003c/a>, \u003cem>Building Houses Out of Chicken Legs: Black Women, Food and Power,\u003c/em> is a nod to this entrepreneurial legacy: Bella Winston, an 80-year-old former waiter carrier, who learned the trade from her mother, told a local newspaper in 1970, \"My mother paid for this place with chicken legs.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That degree of economic independence was rare for African-Americans post-emancipation, Gordonsville Mayor Bob Coiner tells Ober:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"At the end of the Civil War, when we have new freedoms for people, they're put in a position where they need jobs,\" says Coiner, whose family has lived in Gordonsville for many generations. \"The situation was bad before, but you could count on the situation. Now it was a big unknown.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The waiter carriers were part of a larger tradition of African-American women who found economic independence — in some cases even \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2013/02/10/171663336/meet-the-calas-a-new-orleans-treat-that-helped-free-slaves\">buying their own freedom\u003c/a> — through their cooking skills. Indeed, one of the first cookbooks published by a black woman in America was \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2015/06/02/411518221/slavery-famine-and-the-politics-of-pie-what-civil-war-recipes-reveal\">put out\u003c/a> by an ex-slave woman in 1881.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Williams-Forson writes that the historical record is sparse when it comes to Gordonsville's fried chicken vendors. But, she tells Ober, \"I think it's important to talk about it, because it reflects some level of agency that some African-Americans were able to exhibit during that horrible institution.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, fried chicken is a particularly racially charged dish. To wit: the\u003ca href=\"http://depts.washington.edu/civilr/coon_chicken.htm\"> Coon Chicken Inn\u003c/a>, a restaurant chain begun in Salt Lake City, Utah, in 1925, that was popular for its fried chicken. The decor was as racist as the name. The caricature of a black man with grotesquely oversized red, open, smiling lips, a porter's hat askew on his head, was ubiquitous: on silverware, menus, matchbooks and other advertising. Customers had to walk through a giant version of those grinning lips to enter the restaurants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Back in those days ... it wasn't nothing to see [such] mockery. Black folks was always being mocked,\" according to former headwaiter Roy Hawkins, whose recollections of working there appear in Williams-Forson's book.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hawkins said he had to endure customer insults, but it was lucrative work: He'd bring home $100 to $200 a night in tips, at a time when bricklayers earned $5 a day. As Hawkins \u003ca href=\"http://archive.sltrib.com/article.php?id=3951441&itype=NGPSID\">told\u003c/a> \u003cem>The Salt Lake Tribune\u003c/em>\u003cem> \u003c/em>in 2006, he ended up \"laughing all the way to the bank.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As for the waiter carriers of Gordonsville, their trade disappeared in the first half of the 20th century, as dining cars were added to trains and government regulations cracked down on track-side food vendors. But their legacy lives on in Gordonsville, which \u003ca href=\"http://www.fredericksburg.com/featuresfood/chicken-tradition-gordonsville-may-be-known-as-the-fried-chicken/article_f6b21b7e-dbb7-5be5-a3d8-808b6469ffd6.html\">hosts\u003c/a> an annual fried chicken contest.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Lauren Ober's \u003ca href=\"http://wamu.org/programs/metro_connection/15/07/03/how_gordonsville_virginia_became_the_world_capital_of_fried_chicken\">report\u003c/a> on Gordonsville's fried chicken tradition aired on member station WAMU in Washington, D.C. You can listen to a longer version of that story, which details other ways that African-American women have found economic empowerment through food, \u003ca href=\"https://www.southernfoodways.org/gravy/fried-chicken-a-complicated-comfort-food-gravy-ep-16/\">from Gravy\u003c/a>, the podcast from the Southern Foodways Alliance.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2015 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "GUIDE: Bay Area Restaurants On Film (For Hungry Movie Buffs)",
"title": "GUIDE: Bay Area Restaurants On Film (For Hungry Movie Buffs)",
"headTitle": "Our Top 20 Guides From 2015 | Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_96543\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 700px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-96543\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/doubtfire21.jpg\" alt=\"Mrs Doubtfire's Sally Field and Pierce Brosnan in Bridges, Danville\" width=\"700\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/doubtfire21.jpg 700w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/doubtfire21-400x171.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mrs Doubtfire's Sally Field and Pierce Brosnan in Bridges, Danville \u003ccite>(Screenshot: 20th Century Fox)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The San Francisco Bay Area may lack many things -- rain, summer, affordable housing -- but at least you can’t quibble with our place in cinema history. From the classics like \u003ci>Vertigo\u003c/i>, \u003ci>Bullitt\u003c/i> and \u003ci>The Birds \u003c/i>to more recent on-screen roles in movies like \u003ci>Zodiac\u003c/i>, \u003ci>Godzilla\u003c/i> and, uh, \u003ci>San Andreas\u003c/i>, it's entirely possible to while away a very pleasant weekend sightseeing this region’s many movie filming locations. And if you’re a movie fan who loves to eat: what could be better than to tour the Bay Area restaurants you've seen on screen?\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_96546\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-96546\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/Picture-19-800x349.png\" alt=\"Mark Ruffalo and Jake Gyllenhaal in Zodiac, nowhere near San Francisco\" width=\"800\" height=\"349\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/Picture-19-800x349.png 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/Picture-19-400x175.png 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/Picture-19.png 811w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mark Ruffalo and Jake Gyllenhaal in Zodiac, nowhere near San Francisco \u003ccite>(Screenshot: Paramount Pictures)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Disclaimer: a staggering proportion of interior scenes in Bay Area-set movies aren’t filmed here at all, but rather on a soundstage somewhere in Los Angeles. It may be standard movie practice, but it does mean that you can’t \u003ci>actually\u003c/i> have coffee in a place like the seeming 'classic San Francisco diner' where Jake Gyllenhaal and Mark Ruffalo come close to cracking the case in David Fincher’s \u003ci>\u003ca href=\"http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0443706/\" target=\"_blank\">Zodiac\u003c/a> \u003c/i>(above.) But take heart, and come with me on a tour of the Bay's food spots that really have been seen onscreen -- from the ones you \u003cem>can\u003c/em> still visit to some long-shuttered, dearly-departed relics.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Still Playing: Four Bay Area Film Locations You \u003cem>Can\u003c/em> Still Eat In\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Bridges, Danville\u003c/b>\u003cbr>\nFeatured in: \u003ci>Mrs Doubtfire\u003c/i> (1993)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_96549\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-96549\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/Screenshot-2015-06-01-at-9.55.12-PM1-800x343.png\" alt=\"Robin Williams in character as the eponymous Mrs Doubtfire, dining at Bridges in Danville\" width=\"800\" height=\"343\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/Screenshot-2015-06-01-at-9.55.12-PM1-800x343.png 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/Screenshot-2015-06-01-at-9.55.12-PM1-400x172.png 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/Screenshot-2015-06-01-at-9.55.12-PM1.png 841w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Robin Williams in character as the eponymous Mrs. Doubtfire, dining at Bridges in Danville \u003ccite>(Screenshot: 20th Century Fox)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>This pilgrimage may feel a little bittersweet with the passing of Mrs. Doubtfire’s iconic star Robin Williams last year, but it's worth the trip to Danville to relive the movie's climactic set piece -- Williams juggling two simultaneous dinner dates while alternately dressed as elderly alter-ego Mrs. Doubtfire. In real life alas, this upscale East Bay spot's menu does \u003ci>not\u003c/i> feature the infamous “hot jambalaya” that causes Williams to administer a life-saving Heimlich Maneuver to love rival Pierce Brosnan. (Although \u003ca href=\"http://www.pleasantonweekly.com/print/story/2011/01/07/mrs-doubtfire-lives-on-in-danville-memories\" target=\"_blank\">the Pleasanton Weekly reports\u003c/a> that despite forcing the restaurant to close for a whole month during filming back in 1993, the Doubtfire connection consequently doubled Bridges’ business, so it’s fair to guess that they’re used to fans of 90s comedy still dropping in and asking for this particular menu item.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_96515\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 793px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/Screenshot-2015-05-30-at-8.17.32-PM.png\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-96515\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/Screenshot-2015-05-30-at-8.17.32-PM.png\" alt=\"Robin Williams in character as Mrs Doubtfire at the Claremont\" width=\"793\" height=\"426\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/Screenshot-2015-05-30-at-8.17.32-PM.png 793w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/Screenshot-2015-05-30-at-8.17.32-PM-400x215.png 400w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 793px) 100vw, 793px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Robin Williams in character as Mrs Doubtfire at the Claremont \u003ccite>(Screenshot courtesy 20th Century Fox)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Tip: to complete your \u003ci>Mrs Doubtfire\u003c/i> pilgrimage, head north-west to Berkeley and grab a day-pass to the \u003ca href=\"http://www.claremontresort.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Claremont Spa and Hotel\u003c/a>, where the movie’s pool scenes were filmed. If you’re a guest at the hotel or a Club Member, you too can get tipsy at their poolside bar and subject handsome Irishmen to a “run-by fruiting.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Tosca Cafe\u003c/b>\u003cbr>\nFeatured in: \u003ci>Basic Instinct\u003c/i> (1992)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_96514\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/Screenshot-2015-05-25-at-5.43.07-PM.png\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-96514\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/Screenshot-2015-05-25-at-5.43.07-PM-800x372.png\" alt=\"Michael Douglas, hanging out in character in San Francisco's Tosca Cafe \" width=\"800\" height=\"372\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/Screenshot-2015-05-25-at-5.43.07-PM-800x372.png 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/Screenshot-2015-05-25-at-5.43.07-PM-400x186.png 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/Screenshot-2015-05-25-at-5.43.07-PM.png 949w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Michael Douglas, hanging out in character in San Francisco's Tosca Cafe \u003ccite>(Screenshot courtesy TriStar)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Alright, so nobody in 2015 is exactly clamoring for the \u003ci>Basic Instinct\u003c/i> San Francisco Bus Tour, and Bay Area locals are far more likely to snidely remind you of the geographical ludicrousness of this movie’s dramatic car chase north across the Golden Gate Bridge that suddenly cuts to Hwy 1... \u003ci>south\u003c/i> of San Francisco. But a visit to SF’s North Beach neighborhood is still made even more fun with a visit to the century-old \u003ca href=\"http://toscacafesf.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Tosca Cafe\u003c/a>, which has a sort-of-starring role as the SFPD watering hole where detective Michael Douglas, rattled by \u003ci>that \u003c/i>notorious Sharon Stone interrogation, dramatically abandons his sobriety.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_96522\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003ca href=\"https://www.flickr.com/photos/thomashawk/15772616470/in/photolist-q2LMnh-oDgVKW-kacwXs-i4Vk11-fUheVV-dPwNhQ-dPro1S-9URwAi-9UUrGf-9UUozb-9Sru2u-9E8MZJ-9E8MQ9-8d9fRW-8d5Xxc-8d5Xwp-8d9fRd-8d9fQu-8d5XuH-7My9aW-9VntKT-9UUuou-9UUp8G-9SBFC9-9SyNhi-9SoB7R-9EqFdp-9EqF3e-9EtzD3-9EtzpL-9EqEkz-84ZZ5y-84ZZ5q-7My9d1-7My9bY-6EuGri-6yC9tE-6t3ExU-5433Xp-547esj-542Znz-542Zet-547e7S-547dZS-547dS7-547dqS-542Ybe-542XRg-547cBW-542TZ6\">\u003cimg class=\"wp-image-96522 size-medium\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/15772616470_b7ba555958_k-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"The bar at Tosca Cafe in San Francisco\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/15772616470_b7ba555958_k-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/15772616470_b7ba555958_k-400x267.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/15772616470_b7ba555958_k-1440x960.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/15772616470_b7ba555958_k-1180x786.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/15772616470_b7ba555958_k-960x640.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The bar at Tosca Cafe in San Francisco \u003ccite>(Thomas Hawk via Flickr)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>These days Tosca’s almost certainly prefers to be known for its 2013 reinvention as a restaurant than for its brief appearance in a dubious classic of nineties erotica. But it’s still fun to spot its stenciled door and distinctive red booths onscreen, and let’s face it: given Tosca’s popularity, its growing number of awards and its invitation-only back room’s reputation as the place to spot visiting celebrities, Netflix might be the \u003ci>only\u003c/i> way you’ll see the inside of this North Beach institution for a while.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>The Tides Restaurant, Bodega Bay\u003c/b>\u003cbr>\nFeatured in: \u003ci>The Birds\u003c/i> (1960)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_96551\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 600px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-96551\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/birds17.jpg\" alt=\"The Tides Restaurant, as featured in The Birds\" width=\"600\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/birds17.jpg 600w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/birds17-400x200.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Tides Restaurant, as featured in The Birds \u003ccite>(Screenshot: Universal Pictures)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Ever noticed that small-town movie settings -- particularly ones subjected to strange things -- are often given fictionalized, generic names? Not Bodega Bay, the North Bay setting for Alfred Hitchcock’s \u003cem>The Birds\u003c/em> which is why visiting this windswept spot off Hwy 1 is such a fun experience for movie buffs. The town's \u003ca href=\"http://www.innatthetides.com/default.aspx?pg=tideswharf\" target=\"_blank\">Tides Wharf Restaurant\u003c/a> provided the backdrop for multiple moments, although the actual cafe scenes were filmed (you guessed it) hundreds of miles away on the Universal Studios lot.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_96539\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-96539\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/Hitchcock-The-Birds-800x447.jpg\" alt=\"The Tides complex in Bodega Bay under bird attack in The Birds\" width=\"800\" height=\"447\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/Hitchcock-The-Birds-800x447.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/Hitchcock-The-Birds-400x223.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/Hitchcock-The-Birds.jpg 852w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Tides complex in Bodega Bay under bird attack in The Birds \u003ccite>(Screenshot: Universal )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Although the Tides complex has been remodeled several times since those days, it’s still a real kick for Hitchcock fans to experience its windswept, slightly dilapidated charms, especially since the buildings and parking lot were also used for the boat dock scenes and gas station scenes. (Bodega Bay was thankfully spared the famous “gas station explosion” in real life, which took place at the studio.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>The Ramp\u003c/b>\u003cbr>\nFeatured in: \u003ci>Blue Jasmine\u003c/i> (2013)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_96517\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/Screenshot-2015-05-25-at-6.56.01-PM.png\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-96517\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/Screenshot-2015-05-25-at-6.56.01-PM-800x341.png\" alt=\"Cate Blanchett and Sally Hawkins\" width=\"800\" height=\"341\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/Screenshot-2015-05-25-at-6.56.01-PM-800x341.png 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/Screenshot-2015-05-25-at-6.56.01-PM-400x170.png 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/Screenshot-2015-05-25-at-6.56.01-PM.png 845w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cate Blanchett and Sally Hawkins drink at The Ramp in Blue Jasmine \u003ccite>(Screenshot courtesy Sony Pictures Classics)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.hollywoodreporter.com/news/woody-allen-san-francisco-making-656275\" target=\"_blank\">According to his cinematographer\u003c/a>, Woody Allen “always wanted to avoid the postcard sights” while filming his San Francisco-set \u003ci>\u003ca href=\"http://www.imdb.com/title/tt2334873/\" target=\"_blank\">Blue Jasmine\u003c/a>\u003c/i>. Chinatown scenes aside, this commitment to showing the “real” San Francisco results in a cameo for Mission Bay spot \u003ca href=\"http://www.theramprestaurant.com/\" target=\"_blank\">The Ramp\u003c/a>: the waterfront setting for an excruciating first meeting between a Martini-oiled Cate Blanchett and onscreen sister Sally Hawkins, her boyfriend and his dimwit pal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_96518\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/Screenshot-2015-05-25-at-6.56.49-PM.png\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-96518\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/Screenshot-2015-05-25-at-6.56.49-PM-800x337.png\" alt=\"Caption\" width=\"800\" height=\"337\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/Screenshot-2015-05-25-at-6.56.49-PM-800x337.png 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/Screenshot-2015-05-25-at-6.56.49-PM-400x169.png 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/Screenshot-2015-05-25-at-6.56.49-PM.png 845w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Ramp, as featured in Blue Jasmine \u003ccite>(Screenshot: Sony Pictures Classics)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>You’re meant to think Jasmine somewhat pompous when she proclaims the location “reminds me of the Mediterranean” but The Ramp really does boast legimately beautiful views of the bay, and you’re so close to the water on its foliage-filled deck that it’s easy to forget you’re within spitting distance of the freeway.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>That's a Wrap: The Bay Area Foodie Film Locations That Are Long Gone\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Ernie’s, San Francisco\u003c/b>\u003cbr>\nFeatured in: \u003ci>Vertigo\u003c/i> (1958)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_96536\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-96536\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/vertigo-blue-green-evening-dress-800x448.jpg\" alt=\"Kim Novak entering Ernie's in a scene from Vertigo\" width=\"800\" height=\"448\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/vertigo-blue-green-evening-dress.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/vertigo-blue-green-evening-dress-400x224.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Kim Novak entering Ernie's in a scene from Vertigo \u003ccite>(Screenshot: Paramount Pictures)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>With its deep-red silk wallpaper and chandeliered opulence, Ernie’s just \u003ci>looks\u003c/i> like the cinematic ideal of a classic restaurant on-screen in \u003ci>Vertigo. \u003c/i>By all accounts this SF institution, which opened on Montgomery Street at the turn of the 20th century and finally closed in 1995, was quite the hot spot in its heyday but here’s the thing: the restaurant interior James Stewart and Kim Novak are dining in onscreen is actually a painstaking \u003cem>recreation\u003c/em> of Ernie’s.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_96537\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-96537\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/vertigo-archi-detail-800x500.png\" alt=\"Ernie's as seen onscreen in Vertigo\" width=\"800\" height=\"500\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/vertigo-archi-detail-800x500.png 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/vertigo-archi-detail-400x250.png 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/vertigo-archi-detail-1180x738.png 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/vertigo-archi-detail-960x600.png 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/vertigo-archi-detail.png 1280w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ernie's as seen onscreen in Vertigo \u003ccite>(Screenshot: Paramount Pictures)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Hitchcock wanted to have this authentic San Francisco location featured in his movie but when he discovered its size wouldn’t accommodate the panoramic shots he wanted, he just built a fake Ernie’s on the Paramount Studios lot in Hollywood. According to local food writer T.J. Jacobberger’s \u003ca href=\"http://insidescoopsf.sfgate.com/blog/2011/02/11/the-strory-behind-ernies-restaurant-and-alfred-hitchcocks-vertigo/\" target=\"_blank\">fantastic account\u003c/a>, Hitchcock’s dedication to authenticity also extended to flying Ernie’s proprietors Roland and Victor Gotti to L.A. to play the maitre d’ and bartender onscreen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Coffee Cantata\u003c/b>\u003cbr>\nFeatured in \u003ci>Bullitt\u003c/i> (1968)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_96534\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 602px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-96534\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/Screenshot-2015-05-31-at-8.37.49-PM.png\" alt=\"Steve McQueen hangs out at the long-departed Cantata Cafe in San Francisco\" width=\"602\" height=\"333\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/Screenshot-2015-05-31-at-8.37.49-PM.png 602w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/Screenshot-2015-05-31-at-8.37.49-PM-400x221.png 400w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 602px) 100vw, 602px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Steve McQueen hangs out at the long-departed Cantata Cafe in San Francisco \u003ccite>(Screenshot: Warner Bros. Seven Arts)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Don’t you just want to hang out in \u003ci>\u003ca href=\"http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0062765/\" target=\"_blank\">Bullitt\u003c/a>\u003c/i>’s impossibly \u003cem>Mad Men\u003c/em>-esque jazz cafe Coffee Cantata, where Steve McQueen drinks with Jacqueline Bisset? Well tough, because you can’t. This place in SF’s Cow Hollow neighborhood really \u003ci>was\u003c/i> called Coffee Cantata, but it’s long-gone, and in its place lies culinary hotspot Betelnut. There is actually still a spot called Cantata Coffee on Haight Street, but it’s no relation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_96533\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"wp-image-96533 size-medium\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/Screenshot-2015-05-31-at-8.35.58-PM-800x436.png\" alt=\"Steve McQueen and Jacqueline Bisset hang out at the long-departed Cantata Cafe in San Francisco\" width=\"800\" height=\"436\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/Screenshot-2015-05-31-at-8.35.58-PM-800x436.png 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/Screenshot-2015-05-31-at-8.35.58-PM-400x218.png 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/Screenshot-2015-05-31-at-8.35.58-PM-960x523.png 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/Screenshot-2015-05-31-at-8.35.58-PM.png 1136w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Steve McQueen and Jacqueline Bisset dine out at Cantata Cafe in San Francisco -- but you can't \u003ccite>(Screenshot: Warner Bros. Seven Arts)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>While you’re watching this movie, look also for dearly departed North Beach cafe Enrico’s on Broadway, where Bullitt meets an informant: it’s now the site of the restaurant Naked Lunch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Mel’s Drive-In\u003c/b>\u003cbr>\nFeatured in: \u003ci>American Graffiti\u003c/i> (1973)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_96529\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/graffiti12.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-96529\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/graffiti12-800x339.jpg\" alt=\"Mel's Drive in, as featured in George Lucas' American Graffiti\" width=\"800\" height=\"339\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/graffiti12-800x339.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/graffiti12-400x169.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/graffiti12-1440x610.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/graffiti12-1180x500.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/graffiti12-960x406.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mel's Drive in, as featured in George Lucas' American Graffiti \u003ccite>(Screenshot: Universal Pictures)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Not even burger-happy film fans back in the 70s got to pay pilgrimage to this one. \u003ca href=\"http://www.melsdrive-in.com/aboutus/history.html\" target=\"_blank\">George Lucas used Mel’s Drive-In\u003c/a> on South Van Ness Ave. in San Francisco as a location for his Modesto-set coming-of-age tale \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0069704/\" target=\"_blank\">American Graffiti\u003c/a>\u003c/em> just prior to its scheduled demolition, and by the time it was released, this particular drive-in was reduced to rubble.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_96531\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003ca href=\"https://www.flickr.com/photos/thomashawk/2416957021/in/photolist-4Fzx7M-GnyjN-iPMFuX-6oZ3A5-7WqAiC\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-96531\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/2416957021_3073efbbee_b-800x550.jpg\" alt=\"Mel's Drive-In on Geary Street in San Francisco\" width=\"800\" height=\"550\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/2416957021_3073efbbee_b-800x550.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/2416957021_3073efbbee_b-400x275.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/2416957021_3073efbbee_b-960x660.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/2416957021_3073efbbee_b.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mel's Drive-In on Geary Street in San Francisco \u003ccite>(Thomas Hawk via Flickr)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Happily, if you really want to recreate scenes from the movie you can head to one of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.melsdrive-in.com/hoursandlocations/sanfrancisco.html\" target=\"_blank\">many other Mel’s Drive-in incarnations\u003c/a> in San Francisco. They’re novelty pastiches now of course, but of all of them, \u003ca href=\"http://www.melsdrive-in.com/hoursandlocations/gearyboulevard.html\" target=\"_blank\">the Geary Street location\u003c/a> probably most resembles the Mel’s onscreen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Burger Island (a.k.a “Acorn Cafe”)\u003c/b>\u003cbr>\nFeatured in: \u003ci>Sudden Impact\u003c/i> (1983)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_96526\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 631px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/Screenshot-2015-05-31-at-8.16.23-PM.png\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-96526\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/Screenshot-2015-05-31-at-8.16.23-PM.png\" alt=\"Harry Callahan (Clint Eastwood) waits for his coffee at the 'Acorn Cafe' in San Francisco\" width=\"631\" height=\"264\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/Screenshot-2015-05-31-at-8.16.23-PM.png 631w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/Screenshot-2015-05-31-at-8.16.23-PM-400x167.png 400w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 631px) 100vw, 631px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Harry Callahan (Clint Eastwood) waits for his coffee at the 'Acorn Cafe' in San Francisco \u003ccite>(Screenshot courtesy Warner Bros.)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“Go ahead… make my day” has become so iconic a pop culture reference that it’s easy to forget which scene this line is actually spoken in (or indeed, in what Dirty Harry movie.) But of course, it’s the climax to \u003ca href=\"http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0086383/\" target=\"_blank\">the cafe robbery \u003c/a>in \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0086383/\" target=\"_blank\">Sudden Impact\u003c/a>\u003c/em>, set in what was called the 'Acorn Cafe' in the movie, but actually filmed in an unremarkable corner spot called Burger Island in SOMA.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_96527\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 628px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/Screenshot-2015-05-31-at-8.15.19-PM.png\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-96527\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/Screenshot-2015-05-31-at-8.15.19-PM.png\" alt=\"Sudden Impact's hold-up at the Acorn Cafe\" width=\"628\" height=\"266\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/Screenshot-2015-05-31-at-8.15.19-PM.png 628w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/Screenshot-2015-05-31-at-8.15.19-PM-400x169.png 400w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 628px) 100vw, 628px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sudden Impact's hold-up at the Acorn Cafe \u003ccite>(Screenshot courtesy Warner Bros.)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>It’s \u003ca href=\"http://laughingsquid.com/dirty-harry-sudden-impact-then-now-in-san-francisco-go-ahead-make-my-latte/\" target=\"_blank\">now a McDonald’s\u003c/a>, so technically you \u003ci>can\u003c/i> still go there and order a coffee like Harry... but that’s almost certainly where your homage should end.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What Bay Area foodie film locations have I missed? Let me know in the comments!\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>CORRECTION: A previous version of this post stated that fans of \u003c/em>The Birds\u003cem> could attend \u003ca href=\"http://www.innatthetides.com/default.aspx?pg=birds\" target=\"_blank\">a signing at the Tides Inn in August\u003c/a> by star Tippi Hedren. This signing actually took place in 2014, and the post has been updated to reflect that.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "A tour of the Bay Area eateries that have graced the silver screen over the years.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_96543\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 700px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-96543\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/doubtfire21.jpg\" alt=\"Mrs Doubtfire's Sally Field and Pierce Brosnan in Bridges, Danville\" width=\"700\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/doubtfire21.jpg 700w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/doubtfire21-400x171.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mrs Doubtfire's Sally Field and Pierce Brosnan in Bridges, Danville \u003ccite>(Screenshot: 20th Century Fox)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The San Francisco Bay Area may lack many things -- rain, summer, affordable housing -- but at least you can’t quibble with our place in cinema history. From the classics like \u003ci>Vertigo\u003c/i>, \u003ci>Bullitt\u003c/i> and \u003ci>The Birds \u003c/i>to more recent on-screen roles in movies like \u003ci>Zodiac\u003c/i>, \u003ci>Godzilla\u003c/i> and, uh, \u003ci>San Andreas\u003c/i>, it's entirely possible to while away a very pleasant weekend sightseeing this region’s many movie filming locations. And if you’re a movie fan who loves to eat: what could be better than to tour the Bay Area restaurants you've seen on screen?\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_96546\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-96546\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/Picture-19-800x349.png\" alt=\"Mark Ruffalo and Jake Gyllenhaal in Zodiac, nowhere near San Francisco\" width=\"800\" height=\"349\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/Picture-19-800x349.png 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/Picture-19-400x175.png 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/Picture-19.png 811w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mark Ruffalo and Jake Gyllenhaal in Zodiac, nowhere near San Francisco \u003ccite>(Screenshot: Paramount Pictures)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Disclaimer: a staggering proportion of interior scenes in Bay Area-set movies aren’t filmed here at all, but rather on a soundstage somewhere in Los Angeles. It may be standard movie practice, but it does mean that you can’t \u003ci>actually\u003c/i> have coffee in a place like the seeming 'classic San Francisco diner' where Jake Gyllenhaal and Mark Ruffalo come close to cracking the case in David Fincher’s \u003ci>\u003ca href=\"http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0443706/\" target=\"_blank\">Zodiac\u003c/a> \u003c/i>(above.) But take heart, and come with me on a tour of the Bay's food spots that really have been seen onscreen -- from the ones you \u003cem>can\u003c/em> still visit to some long-shuttered, dearly-departed relics.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Still Playing: Four Bay Area Film Locations You \u003cem>Can\u003c/em> Still Eat In\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Bridges, Danville\u003c/b>\u003cbr>\nFeatured in: \u003ci>Mrs Doubtfire\u003c/i> (1993)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_96549\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-96549\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/Screenshot-2015-06-01-at-9.55.12-PM1-800x343.png\" alt=\"Robin Williams in character as the eponymous Mrs Doubtfire, dining at Bridges in Danville\" width=\"800\" height=\"343\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/Screenshot-2015-06-01-at-9.55.12-PM1-800x343.png 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/Screenshot-2015-06-01-at-9.55.12-PM1-400x172.png 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/Screenshot-2015-06-01-at-9.55.12-PM1.png 841w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Robin Williams in character as the eponymous Mrs. Doubtfire, dining at Bridges in Danville \u003ccite>(Screenshot: 20th Century Fox)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>This pilgrimage may feel a little bittersweet with the passing of Mrs. Doubtfire’s iconic star Robin Williams last year, but it's worth the trip to Danville to relive the movie's climactic set piece -- Williams juggling two simultaneous dinner dates while alternately dressed as elderly alter-ego Mrs. Doubtfire. In real life alas, this upscale East Bay spot's menu does \u003ci>not\u003c/i> feature the infamous “hot jambalaya” that causes Williams to administer a life-saving Heimlich Maneuver to love rival Pierce Brosnan. (Although \u003ca href=\"http://www.pleasantonweekly.com/print/story/2011/01/07/mrs-doubtfire-lives-on-in-danville-memories\" target=\"_blank\">the Pleasanton Weekly reports\u003c/a> that despite forcing the restaurant to close for a whole month during filming back in 1993, the Doubtfire connection consequently doubled Bridges’ business, so it’s fair to guess that they’re used to fans of 90s comedy still dropping in and asking for this particular menu item.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_96515\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 793px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/Screenshot-2015-05-30-at-8.17.32-PM.png\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-96515\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/Screenshot-2015-05-30-at-8.17.32-PM.png\" alt=\"Robin Williams in character as Mrs Doubtfire at the Claremont\" width=\"793\" height=\"426\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/Screenshot-2015-05-30-at-8.17.32-PM.png 793w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/Screenshot-2015-05-30-at-8.17.32-PM-400x215.png 400w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 793px) 100vw, 793px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Robin Williams in character as Mrs Doubtfire at the Claremont \u003ccite>(Screenshot courtesy 20th Century Fox)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Tip: to complete your \u003ci>Mrs Doubtfire\u003c/i> pilgrimage, head north-west to Berkeley and grab a day-pass to the \u003ca href=\"http://www.claremontresort.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Claremont Spa and Hotel\u003c/a>, where the movie’s pool scenes were filmed. If you’re a guest at the hotel or a Club Member, you too can get tipsy at their poolside bar and subject handsome Irishmen to a “run-by fruiting.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Tosca Cafe\u003c/b>\u003cbr>\nFeatured in: \u003ci>Basic Instinct\u003c/i> (1992)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_96514\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/Screenshot-2015-05-25-at-5.43.07-PM.png\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-96514\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/Screenshot-2015-05-25-at-5.43.07-PM-800x372.png\" alt=\"Michael Douglas, hanging out in character in San Francisco's Tosca Cafe \" width=\"800\" height=\"372\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/Screenshot-2015-05-25-at-5.43.07-PM-800x372.png 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/Screenshot-2015-05-25-at-5.43.07-PM-400x186.png 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/Screenshot-2015-05-25-at-5.43.07-PM.png 949w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Michael Douglas, hanging out in character in San Francisco's Tosca Cafe \u003ccite>(Screenshot courtesy TriStar)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Alright, so nobody in 2015 is exactly clamoring for the \u003ci>Basic Instinct\u003c/i> San Francisco Bus Tour, and Bay Area locals are far more likely to snidely remind you of the geographical ludicrousness of this movie’s dramatic car chase north across the Golden Gate Bridge that suddenly cuts to Hwy 1... \u003ci>south\u003c/i> of San Francisco. But a visit to SF’s North Beach neighborhood is still made even more fun with a visit to the century-old \u003ca href=\"http://toscacafesf.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Tosca Cafe\u003c/a>, which has a sort-of-starring role as the SFPD watering hole where detective Michael Douglas, rattled by \u003ci>that \u003c/i>notorious Sharon Stone interrogation, dramatically abandons his sobriety.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_96522\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003ca href=\"https://www.flickr.com/photos/thomashawk/15772616470/in/photolist-q2LMnh-oDgVKW-kacwXs-i4Vk11-fUheVV-dPwNhQ-dPro1S-9URwAi-9UUrGf-9UUozb-9Sru2u-9E8MZJ-9E8MQ9-8d9fRW-8d5Xxc-8d5Xwp-8d9fRd-8d9fQu-8d5XuH-7My9aW-9VntKT-9UUuou-9UUp8G-9SBFC9-9SyNhi-9SoB7R-9EqFdp-9EqF3e-9EtzD3-9EtzpL-9EqEkz-84ZZ5y-84ZZ5q-7My9d1-7My9bY-6EuGri-6yC9tE-6t3ExU-5433Xp-547esj-542Znz-542Zet-547e7S-547dZS-547dS7-547dqS-542Ybe-542XRg-547cBW-542TZ6\">\u003cimg class=\"wp-image-96522 size-medium\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/15772616470_b7ba555958_k-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"The bar at Tosca Cafe in San Francisco\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/15772616470_b7ba555958_k-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/15772616470_b7ba555958_k-400x267.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/15772616470_b7ba555958_k-1440x960.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/15772616470_b7ba555958_k-1180x786.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/15772616470_b7ba555958_k-960x640.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The bar at Tosca Cafe in San Francisco \u003ccite>(Thomas Hawk via Flickr)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>These days Tosca’s almost certainly prefers to be known for its 2013 reinvention as a restaurant than for its brief appearance in a dubious classic of nineties erotica. But it’s still fun to spot its stenciled door and distinctive red booths onscreen, and let’s face it: given Tosca’s popularity, its growing number of awards and its invitation-only back room’s reputation as the place to spot visiting celebrities, Netflix might be the \u003ci>only\u003c/i> way you’ll see the inside of this North Beach institution for a while.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>The Tides Restaurant, Bodega Bay\u003c/b>\u003cbr>\nFeatured in: \u003ci>The Birds\u003c/i> (1960)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_96551\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 600px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-96551\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/birds17.jpg\" alt=\"The Tides Restaurant, as featured in The Birds\" width=\"600\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/birds17.jpg 600w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/birds17-400x200.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Tides Restaurant, as featured in The Birds \u003ccite>(Screenshot: Universal Pictures)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Ever noticed that small-town movie settings -- particularly ones subjected to strange things -- are often given fictionalized, generic names? Not Bodega Bay, the North Bay setting for Alfred Hitchcock’s \u003cem>The Birds\u003c/em> which is why visiting this windswept spot off Hwy 1 is such a fun experience for movie buffs. The town's \u003ca href=\"http://www.innatthetides.com/default.aspx?pg=tideswharf\" target=\"_blank\">Tides Wharf Restaurant\u003c/a> provided the backdrop for multiple moments, although the actual cafe scenes were filmed (you guessed it) hundreds of miles away on the Universal Studios lot.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_96539\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-96539\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/Hitchcock-The-Birds-800x447.jpg\" alt=\"The Tides complex in Bodega Bay under bird attack in The Birds\" width=\"800\" height=\"447\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/Hitchcock-The-Birds-800x447.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/Hitchcock-The-Birds-400x223.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/Hitchcock-The-Birds.jpg 852w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Tides complex in Bodega Bay under bird attack in The Birds \u003ccite>(Screenshot: Universal )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Although the Tides complex has been remodeled several times since those days, it’s still a real kick for Hitchcock fans to experience its windswept, slightly dilapidated charms, especially since the buildings and parking lot were also used for the boat dock scenes and gas station scenes. (Bodega Bay was thankfully spared the famous “gas station explosion” in real life, which took place at the studio.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>The Ramp\u003c/b>\u003cbr>\nFeatured in: \u003ci>Blue Jasmine\u003c/i> (2013)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_96517\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/Screenshot-2015-05-25-at-6.56.01-PM.png\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-96517\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/Screenshot-2015-05-25-at-6.56.01-PM-800x341.png\" alt=\"Cate Blanchett and Sally Hawkins\" width=\"800\" height=\"341\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/Screenshot-2015-05-25-at-6.56.01-PM-800x341.png 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/Screenshot-2015-05-25-at-6.56.01-PM-400x170.png 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/Screenshot-2015-05-25-at-6.56.01-PM.png 845w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cate Blanchett and Sally Hawkins drink at The Ramp in Blue Jasmine \u003ccite>(Screenshot courtesy Sony Pictures Classics)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.hollywoodreporter.com/news/woody-allen-san-francisco-making-656275\" target=\"_blank\">According to his cinematographer\u003c/a>, Woody Allen “always wanted to avoid the postcard sights” while filming his San Francisco-set \u003ci>\u003ca href=\"http://www.imdb.com/title/tt2334873/\" target=\"_blank\">Blue Jasmine\u003c/a>\u003c/i>. Chinatown scenes aside, this commitment to showing the “real” San Francisco results in a cameo for Mission Bay spot \u003ca href=\"http://www.theramprestaurant.com/\" target=\"_blank\">The Ramp\u003c/a>: the waterfront setting for an excruciating first meeting between a Martini-oiled Cate Blanchett and onscreen sister Sally Hawkins, her boyfriend and his dimwit pal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_96518\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/Screenshot-2015-05-25-at-6.56.49-PM.png\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-96518\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/Screenshot-2015-05-25-at-6.56.49-PM-800x337.png\" alt=\"Caption\" width=\"800\" height=\"337\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/Screenshot-2015-05-25-at-6.56.49-PM-800x337.png 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/Screenshot-2015-05-25-at-6.56.49-PM-400x169.png 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/Screenshot-2015-05-25-at-6.56.49-PM.png 845w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Ramp, as featured in Blue Jasmine \u003ccite>(Screenshot: Sony Pictures Classics)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>You’re meant to think Jasmine somewhat pompous when she proclaims the location “reminds me of the Mediterranean” but The Ramp really does boast legimately beautiful views of the bay, and you’re so close to the water on its foliage-filled deck that it’s easy to forget you’re within spitting distance of the freeway.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>That's a Wrap: The Bay Area Foodie Film Locations That Are Long Gone\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Ernie’s, San Francisco\u003c/b>\u003cbr>\nFeatured in: \u003ci>Vertigo\u003c/i> (1958)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_96536\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-96536\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/vertigo-blue-green-evening-dress-800x448.jpg\" alt=\"Kim Novak entering Ernie's in a scene from Vertigo\" width=\"800\" height=\"448\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/vertigo-blue-green-evening-dress.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/vertigo-blue-green-evening-dress-400x224.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Kim Novak entering Ernie's in a scene from Vertigo \u003ccite>(Screenshot: Paramount Pictures)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>With its deep-red silk wallpaper and chandeliered opulence, Ernie’s just \u003ci>looks\u003c/i> like the cinematic ideal of a classic restaurant on-screen in \u003ci>Vertigo. \u003c/i>By all accounts this SF institution, which opened on Montgomery Street at the turn of the 20th century and finally closed in 1995, was quite the hot spot in its heyday but here’s the thing: the restaurant interior James Stewart and Kim Novak are dining in onscreen is actually a painstaking \u003cem>recreation\u003c/em> of Ernie’s.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_96537\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-96537\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/vertigo-archi-detail-800x500.png\" alt=\"Ernie's as seen onscreen in Vertigo\" width=\"800\" height=\"500\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/vertigo-archi-detail-800x500.png 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/vertigo-archi-detail-400x250.png 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/vertigo-archi-detail-1180x738.png 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/vertigo-archi-detail-960x600.png 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/vertigo-archi-detail.png 1280w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ernie's as seen onscreen in Vertigo \u003ccite>(Screenshot: Paramount Pictures)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Hitchcock wanted to have this authentic San Francisco location featured in his movie but when he discovered its size wouldn’t accommodate the panoramic shots he wanted, he just built a fake Ernie’s on the Paramount Studios lot in Hollywood. According to local food writer T.J. Jacobberger’s \u003ca href=\"http://insidescoopsf.sfgate.com/blog/2011/02/11/the-strory-behind-ernies-restaurant-and-alfred-hitchcocks-vertigo/\" target=\"_blank\">fantastic account\u003c/a>, Hitchcock’s dedication to authenticity also extended to flying Ernie’s proprietors Roland and Victor Gotti to L.A. to play the maitre d’ and bartender onscreen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Coffee Cantata\u003c/b>\u003cbr>\nFeatured in \u003ci>Bullitt\u003c/i> (1968)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_96534\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 602px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-96534\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/Screenshot-2015-05-31-at-8.37.49-PM.png\" alt=\"Steve McQueen hangs out at the long-departed Cantata Cafe in San Francisco\" width=\"602\" height=\"333\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/Screenshot-2015-05-31-at-8.37.49-PM.png 602w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/Screenshot-2015-05-31-at-8.37.49-PM-400x221.png 400w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 602px) 100vw, 602px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Steve McQueen hangs out at the long-departed Cantata Cafe in San Francisco \u003ccite>(Screenshot: Warner Bros. Seven Arts)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Don’t you just want to hang out in \u003ci>\u003ca href=\"http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0062765/\" target=\"_blank\">Bullitt\u003c/a>\u003c/i>’s impossibly \u003cem>Mad Men\u003c/em>-esque jazz cafe Coffee Cantata, where Steve McQueen drinks with Jacqueline Bisset? Well tough, because you can’t. This place in SF’s Cow Hollow neighborhood really \u003ci>was\u003c/i> called Coffee Cantata, but it’s long-gone, and in its place lies culinary hotspot Betelnut. There is actually still a spot called Cantata Coffee on Haight Street, but it’s no relation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_96533\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"wp-image-96533 size-medium\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/Screenshot-2015-05-31-at-8.35.58-PM-800x436.png\" alt=\"Steve McQueen and Jacqueline Bisset hang out at the long-departed Cantata Cafe in San Francisco\" width=\"800\" height=\"436\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/Screenshot-2015-05-31-at-8.35.58-PM-800x436.png 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/Screenshot-2015-05-31-at-8.35.58-PM-400x218.png 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/Screenshot-2015-05-31-at-8.35.58-PM-960x523.png 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/Screenshot-2015-05-31-at-8.35.58-PM.png 1136w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Steve McQueen and Jacqueline Bisset dine out at Cantata Cafe in San Francisco -- but you can't \u003ccite>(Screenshot: Warner Bros. Seven Arts)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>While you’re watching this movie, look also for dearly departed North Beach cafe Enrico’s on Broadway, where Bullitt meets an informant: it’s now the site of the restaurant Naked Lunch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Mel’s Drive-In\u003c/b>\u003cbr>\nFeatured in: \u003ci>American Graffiti\u003c/i> (1973)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_96529\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/graffiti12.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-96529\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/graffiti12-800x339.jpg\" alt=\"Mel's Drive in, as featured in George Lucas' American Graffiti\" width=\"800\" height=\"339\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/graffiti12-800x339.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/graffiti12-400x169.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/graffiti12-1440x610.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/graffiti12-1180x500.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/graffiti12-960x406.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mel's Drive in, as featured in George Lucas' American Graffiti \u003ccite>(Screenshot: Universal Pictures)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Not even burger-happy film fans back in the 70s got to pay pilgrimage to this one. \u003ca href=\"http://www.melsdrive-in.com/aboutus/history.html\" target=\"_blank\">George Lucas used Mel’s Drive-In\u003c/a> on South Van Ness Ave. in San Francisco as a location for his Modesto-set coming-of-age tale \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0069704/\" target=\"_blank\">American Graffiti\u003c/a>\u003c/em> just prior to its scheduled demolition, and by the time it was released, this particular drive-in was reduced to rubble.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_96531\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003ca href=\"https://www.flickr.com/photos/thomashawk/2416957021/in/photolist-4Fzx7M-GnyjN-iPMFuX-6oZ3A5-7WqAiC\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-96531\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/2416957021_3073efbbee_b-800x550.jpg\" alt=\"Mel's Drive-In on Geary Street in San Francisco\" width=\"800\" height=\"550\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/2416957021_3073efbbee_b-800x550.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/2416957021_3073efbbee_b-400x275.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/2416957021_3073efbbee_b-960x660.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/2416957021_3073efbbee_b.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mel's Drive-In on Geary Street in San Francisco \u003ccite>(Thomas Hawk via Flickr)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Happily, if you really want to recreate scenes from the movie you can head to one of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.melsdrive-in.com/hoursandlocations/sanfrancisco.html\" target=\"_blank\">many other Mel’s Drive-in incarnations\u003c/a> in San Francisco. They’re novelty pastiches now of course, but of all of them, \u003ca href=\"http://www.melsdrive-in.com/hoursandlocations/gearyboulevard.html\" target=\"_blank\">the Geary Street location\u003c/a> probably most resembles the Mel’s onscreen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Burger Island (a.k.a “Acorn Cafe”)\u003c/b>\u003cbr>\nFeatured in: \u003ci>Sudden Impact\u003c/i> (1983)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_96526\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 631px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/Screenshot-2015-05-31-at-8.16.23-PM.png\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-96526\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/Screenshot-2015-05-31-at-8.16.23-PM.png\" alt=\"Harry Callahan (Clint Eastwood) waits for his coffee at the 'Acorn Cafe' in San Francisco\" width=\"631\" height=\"264\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/Screenshot-2015-05-31-at-8.16.23-PM.png 631w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/Screenshot-2015-05-31-at-8.16.23-PM-400x167.png 400w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 631px) 100vw, 631px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Harry Callahan (Clint Eastwood) waits for his coffee at the 'Acorn Cafe' in San Francisco \u003ccite>(Screenshot courtesy Warner Bros.)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“Go ahead… make my day” has become so iconic a pop culture reference that it’s easy to forget which scene this line is actually spoken in (or indeed, in what Dirty Harry movie.) But of course, it’s the climax to \u003ca href=\"http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0086383/\" target=\"_blank\">the cafe robbery \u003c/a>in \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0086383/\" target=\"_blank\">Sudden Impact\u003c/a>\u003c/em>, set in what was called the 'Acorn Cafe' in the movie, but actually filmed in an unremarkable corner spot called Burger Island in SOMA.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_96527\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 628px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/Screenshot-2015-05-31-at-8.15.19-PM.png\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-96527\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/Screenshot-2015-05-31-at-8.15.19-PM.png\" alt=\"Sudden Impact's hold-up at the Acorn Cafe\" width=\"628\" height=\"266\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/Screenshot-2015-05-31-at-8.15.19-PM.png 628w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/Screenshot-2015-05-31-at-8.15.19-PM-400x169.png 400w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 628px) 100vw, 628px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sudden Impact's hold-up at the Acorn Cafe \u003ccite>(Screenshot courtesy Warner Bros.)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>It’s \u003ca href=\"http://laughingsquid.com/dirty-harry-sudden-impact-then-now-in-san-francisco-go-ahead-make-my-latte/\" target=\"_blank\">now a McDonald’s\u003c/a>, so technically you \u003ci>can\u003c/i> still go there and order a coffee like Harry... but that’s almost certainly where your homage should end.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What Bay Area foodie film locations have I missed? Let me know in the comments!\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>CORRECTION: A previous version of this post stated that fans of \u003c/em>The Birds\u003cem> could attend \u003ca href=\"http://www.innatthetides.com/default.aspx?pg=birds\" target=\"_blank\">a signing at the Tides Inn in August\u003c/a> by star Tippi Hedren. This signing actually took place in 2014, and the post has been updated to reflect that.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "As American As Iced Tea: A Brief, Sometimes Boozy History",
"title": "As American As Iced Tea: A Brief, Sometimes Boozy History",
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"content": "\u003cp>You'd be forgiven for not knowing this, but Wednesday is National Iced Tea Day. And while it's only an unofficial food holiday, it makes sense that Americans would set aside a day to celebrate this favorite summertime sip: We popularized it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tea itself, of course, has been consumed in America since Colonial times. (Remember the Boston Tea Party?) But before you could drink\u003cem> \u003c/em>\u003cem>iced\u003c/em> tea, you needed ice — and that was a rare summer luxury until the early 1800s. New Englanders could cut large chunks of ice from frozen ponds and lakes in winter, then insulate it with sawdust so that it could last into the warmer months. But in the hot South, snow and ice didn't exactly abound.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then, around the turn of the 19th century, ice entrepreneurs from Northern U.S. states \u003ca href=\"http://www.ultimatehistoryproject.com/ice-house.html\">started shipping ice\u003c/a> down to Southern states and the Caribbean. Americans would come to \u003ca href=\"http://www.history.com/news/the-man-who-shipped-new-england-ice-around-the-world\">dominate \u003c/a>the 19th century global ice trade. And there's good reason to believe plenty of that ice was being used to serve tea on the rocks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Early recipes had more in common with the booze-laden Long Island iced tea* than the stuff Lipton sells. Indeed, Americans were drinking iced tea in the form of alcohol-drenched punches at least as far back as the Colonial era.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The classic Philadelphia Fish House Punch, first imbibed in the early 1700s, was \u003ca href=\"http://www.wsj.com/articles/SB123758172905298941#articleTabs%3Darticle\">often diluted with tea\u003c/a>. In his book \u003cem>Punch,\u003c/em> liquor historian David Wondrich writes that the recipe for Regent's Punch, dating to 1815, also packed quite the potent wallop: Not only did it call for green tea and arrack, a rumlike liquor from South Asia, it also threw in citrus juice, sugar, champagne, brandy and rum. No wonder, then, that one early drinker described the Regent's as imparting a \"mad, delirious dizziness,\" as Wondrich writes. Overall, these strong, early punches had little in common with the light, fruity sippers served today.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_96814\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1110px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/inside_of_ice_warehouse_1871-1-_custom-9f8db2329abca6cd0960fbd4ee903dff268eb70e.jpg\" alt=\"Ice being stacked at Barrytown, N.Y., 1871. You can't have iced tea without ice, and American entrepreneurs of the 19th century came to the rescue.\" width=\"1110\" height=\"838\" class=\"size-full wp-image-96814\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/inside_of_ice_warehouse_1871-1-_custom-9f8db2329abca6cd0960fbd4ee903dff268eb70e.jpg 1110w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/inside_of_ice_warehouse_1871-1-_custom-9f8db2329abca6cd0960fbd4ee903dff268eb70e-400x302.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/inside_of_ice_warehouse_1871-1-_custom-9f8db2329abca6cd0960fbd4ee903dff268eb70e-800x604.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/inside_of_ice_warehouse_1871-1-_custom-9f8db2329abca6cd0960fbd4ee903dff268eb70e-960x725.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1110px) 100vw, 1110px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ice being stacked at Barrytown, N.Y., 1871. You can't have iced tea without ice, and American entrepreneurs of the 19th century came to the rescue. \u003ccite>(Via \u003ca href=\"http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Inside_of_ice_warehouse_1871.jpg\">Wikimedia\u003c/a>)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Recipes for nonalcoholic iced tea didn't appear in print until 1876 — when one was included in Estelle Woods Wilcox's \u003cem>Buckeye Cookbook.\u003c/em>\u003cem> \u003c/em>But iced tea drinking habits really started to shift around the turn of the 20th century, when the nonalcoholic version was popularized at the 1904 World's Fair in St. Louis. Linda Stradley writes on \u003ca href=\"http://whatscookingamerica.net/\">What's Cooking America\u003c/a> that the hot summer weather caused fairgoers to ignore hot beverages in favor of cold ones — including iced tea. The fair's 20 million visitors cooled themselves with iced tea and brought the new style back to their homes throughout the United States and the world.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While Prohibition sounded a death knell for tea punches, it was a boon for nonalcoholic iced teas. A \u003ca href=\"https://books.google.com/books?id=_Mk6AQAAMAAJ&pg=PA2249&dq=tea+prohibition&hl=en&sa=X&ei=N0daVamNNOSCsQTujoL4Cw&ved=0CDoQ6AEwBQ#v=onepage&q=tea%20prohibition&f=false\">1921 book\u003c/a> on the coffee and tea industry notes, \"Since Prohibition has gone into effect, tea has been drunk in places not heretofore thought of.\" Clubs and hotels looking for substitutes to hard liquor sales gravitated toward strong iced teas or virgin fruit punches — beverages with the bonus of being flavorful but legal. And when home refrigerators with freezers became available for the home market starting in the \u003ca href=\"http://www.aham.org/consumer/ht/action/GetDocumentAction/id/1409\">1920s and '30s\u003c/a>, people didn't even have to leave the house to grab a couple of ice cubes year-round.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another advantage for iced tea? Tea leaves themselves had become more affordable.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As tea plantations took off in India and Ceylon, and countries in Africa started producing tea in the second half of the 19th century, the price of tea — once the product mainly of China — dropped considerably. The majority of the tea these countries produced was black, making it a more popular, economical choice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yet until World War II, American consumers were \u003ca href=\"http://www.nlm.nih.gov/hmd/teapot/medical.html\">split almost equally\u003c/a> between black and green tea consumption. As Marian Segal wrote in \"Tea: a story of serendipity\" for \u003cem>FDA Consumer\u003c/em> magazine, the war cut off trade with China and Japan — the major suppliers of green tea — leaving Americans with British-supplied black teas from India. According to Segal, \"Americans came out of the war drinking nearly 99 percent black tea.\" Seven decades later, black tea is still the preferred version here.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to the Tea Association of the U.S.A., \u003ca href=\"http://www.teausa.com/14655/tea-fact-sheet\">85 percent\u003c/a> of all tea consumed in the United States today is sipped cold. Whether you like your tea with a splash of liquor, poured into punches, or served simply on the rocks, you're taking part in a 200-year-old tradition with every sip.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>*Funny enough, despite its name, the Long Island iced tea contains no tea — though it does taste like it.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/tags/388738261/tea-tuesdays\">Tea Tuesdays\u003c/a> \u003cem>is an occasional series exploring the science, history, culture and economics of this ancient brewed beverage.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Tove Danovich is a writer based in New York City.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cem>Copyright 2015 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>You'd be forgiven for not knowing this, but Wednesday is National Iced Tea Day. And while it's only an unofficial food holiday, it makes sense that Americans would set aside a day to celebrate this favorite summertime sip: We popularized it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tea itself, of course, has been consumed in America since Colonial times. (Remember the Boston Tea Party?) But before you could drink\u003cem> \u003c/em>\u003cem>iced\u003c/em> tea, you needed ice — and that was a rare summer luxury until the early 1800s. New Englanders could cut large chunks of ice from frozen ponds and lakes in winter, then insulate it with sawdust so that it could last into the warmer months. But in the hot South, snow and ice didn't exactly abound.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then, around the turn of the 19th century, ice entrepreneurs from Northern U.S. states \u003ca href=\"http://www.ultimatehistoryproject.com/ice-house.html\">started shipping ice\u003c/a> down to Southern states and the Caribbean. Americans would come to \u003ca href=\"http://www.history.com/news/the-man-who-shipped-new-england-ice-around-the-world\">dominate \u003c/a>the 19th century global ice trade. And there's good reason to believe plenty of that ice was being used to serve tea on the rocks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Early recipes had more in common with the booze-laden Long Island iced tea* than the stuff Lipton sells. Indeed, Americans were drinking iced tea in the form of alcohol-drenched punches at least as far back as the Colonial era.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The classic Philadelphia Fish House Punch, first imbibed in the early 1700s, was \u003ca href=\"http://www.wsj.com/articles/SB123758172905298941#articleTabs%3Darticle\">often diluted with tea\u003c/a>. In his book \u003cem>Punch,\u003c/em> liquor historian David Wondrich writes that the recipe for Regent's Punch, dating to 1815, also packed quite the potent wallop: Not only did it call for green tea and arrack, a rumlike liquor from South Asia, it also threw in citrus juice, sugar, champagne, brandy and rum. No wonder, then, that one early drinker described the Regent's as imparting a \"mad, delirious dizziness,\" as Wondrich writes. Overall, these strong, early punches had little in common with the light, fruity sippers served today.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_96814\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1110px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/inside_of_ice_warehouse_1871-1-_custom-9f8db2329abca6cd0960fbd4ee903dff268eb70e.jpg\" alt=\"Ice being stacked at Barrytown, N.Y., 1871. You can't have iced tea without ice, and American entrepreneurs of the 19th century came to the rescue.\" width=\"1110\" height=\"838\" class=\"size-full wp-image-96814\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/inside_of_ice_warehouse_1871-1-_custom-9f8db2329abca6cd0960fbd4ee903dff268eb70e.jpg 1110w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/inside_of_ice_warehouse_1871-1-_custom-9f8db2329abca6cd0960fbd4ee903dff268eb70e-400x302.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/inside_of_ice_warehouse_1871-1-_custom-9f8db2329abca6cd0960fbd4ee903dff268eb70e-800x604.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/inside_of_ice_warehouse_1871-1-_custom-9f8db2329abca6cd0960fbd4ee903dff268eb70e-960x725.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1110px) 100vw, 1110px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ice being stacked at Barrytown, N.Y., 1871. You can't have iced tea without ice, and American entrepreneurs of the 19th century came to the rescue. \u003ccite>(Via \u003ca href=\"http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Inside_of_ice_warehouse_1871.jpg\">Wikimedia\u003c/a>)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Recipes for nonalcoholic iced tea didn't appear in print until 1876 — when one was included in Estelle Woods Wilcox's \u003cem>Buckeye Cookbook.\u003c/em>\u003cem> \u003c/em>But iced tea drinking habits really started to shift around the turn of the 20th century, when the nonalcoholic version was popularized at the 1904 World's Fair in St. Louis. Linda Stradley writes on \u003ca href=\"http://whatscookingamerica.net/\">What's Cooking America\u003c/a> that the hot summer weather caused fairgoers to ignore hot beverages in favor of cold ones — including iced tea. The fair's 20 million visitors cooled themselves with iced tea and brought the new style back to their homes throughout the United States and the world.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While Prohibition sounded a death knell for tea punches, it was a boon for nonalcoholic iced teas. A \u003ca href=\"https://books.google.com/books?id=_Mk6AQAAMAAJ&pg=PA2249&dq=tea+prohibition&hl=en&sa=X&ei=N0daVamNNOSCsQTujoL4Cw&ved=0CDoQ6AEwBQ#v=onepage&q=tea%20prohibition&f=false\">1921 book\u003c/a> on the coffee and tea industry notes, \"Since Prohibition has gone into effect, tea has been drunk in places not heretofore thought of.\" Clubs and hotels looking for substitutes to hard liquor sales gravitated toward strong iced teas or virgin fruit punches — beverages with the bonus of being flavorful but legal. And when home refrigerators with freezers became available for the home market starting in the \u003ca href=\"http://www.aham.org/consumer/ht/action/GetDocumentAction/id/1409\">1920s and '30s\u003c/a>, people didn't even have to leave the house to grab a couple of ice cubes year-round.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another advantage for iced tea? Tea leaves themselves had become more affordable.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As tea plantations took off in India and Ceylon, and countries in Africa started producing tea in the second half of the 19th century, the price of tea — once the product mainly of China — dropped considerably. The majority of the tea these countries produced was black, making it a more popular, economical choice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yet until World War II, American consumers were \u003ca href=\"http://www.nlm.nih.gov/hmd/teapot/medical.html\">split almost equally\u003c/a> between black and green tea consumption. As Marian Segal wrote in \"Tea: a story of serendipity\" for \u003cem>FDA Consumer\u003c/em> magazine, the war cut off trade with China and Japan — the major suppliers of green tea — leaving Americans with British-supplied black teas from India. According to Segal, \"Americans came out of the war drinking nearly 99 percent black tea.\" Seven decades later, black tea is still the preferred version here.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to the Tea Association of the U.S.A., \u003ca href=\"http://www.teausa.com/14655/tea-fact-sheet\">85 percent\u003c/a> of all tea consumed in the United States today is sipped cold. Whether you like your tea with a splash of liquor, poured into punches, or served simply on the rocks, you're taking part in a 200-year-old tradition with every sip.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>*Funny enough, despite its name, the Long Island iced tea contains no tea — though it does taste like it.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/tags/388738261/tea-tuesdays\">Tea Tuesdays\u003c/a> \u003cem>is an occasional series exploring the science, history, culture and economics of this ancient brewed beverage.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Tove Danovich is a writer based in New York City.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cem>Copyright 2015 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "California Matters: Mark Bittman's Online Video Series Premieres with 'Take a Walk on the Wild (Edibles) Side'",
"title": "California Matters: Mark Bittman's Online Video Series Premieres with 'Take a Walk on the Wild (Edibles) Side'",
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"content": "\u003cp>Gushing over the Meyer lemons growing in his backyard was one of the first signs that Mark Bittman was \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2015/03/18/dining/mark-bittman-revels-in-california-produce.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">falling for California\u003c/a>. The celebrated food writer and New York Times columnist began what was supposed to be a semester-long stint as a visiting fellow at the \u003ca href=\"http://food.berkeley.edu/\">Berkeley Food Institute\u003c/a> in January 2015. But Bittman has decided to stay on for another academic year, at least. Besides continuing to lecture for the Food Institute, this fall he’ll have an official appointment at Berkeley’s Journalism School. He may also have an opportunity to create more programs for his new online video series, \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCl-FXGBB36Yd4xOFWSKc0Dg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">\u003cem>California Matters\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, premiering today, June 8, 2015.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://markbittman.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Bittman\u003c/a> came up with the idea for the video series as a platform for doing what he does in most of his writing these days: plunge headlong into a vast array of food-related issues and decipher them for the public. Whether exploring injustices and innovations or unpacking science and policy, he generally does it with equal frankness and gusto. One of the most outspoken advocates for \u003ca href=\"http://www.slate.com/articles/life/food/2014/11/michael_pollan_and_mark_bittman_s_food_policy_proposal_at_the_stone_barns.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">overhauling many of America’s food systems\u003c/a> (I’ve heard him referred to as the east coast’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.ted.com/speakers/michael_pollan\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Michael Pollan\u003c/a>), Bittman’s rants can engender total devotion or harsh critique. Although being an on-camera host is not his usual medium, Bittman’s casual vibe and quintessential New York voice might play just as well on video as his words do on the page.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In each 4-7 minute episode, Bittman introduces viewers to different researchers, entrepreneurs, educators and thinkers from the University of California (UC) network who are working to better understand and improve the food we eat and the systems that support it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I wanted to find people who are doing interesting things and talk to them,” says Bittman. \"I thought we could make their work more easily and widely understood. And I think we succeeded.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4n1PvH4B1Vo\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was also a good way for Bittman to get to know his new home state, and probably helped tip the scales in favor of extending his stay in the Bay Area. “There’s just nothing I’d rather do than travel around California looking at food-related stuff,” says Bittman. “There are a million stories out there.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In \u003cem>California Matters\u003c/em>, Bittman traipses up and down the state in search of those stories. In each episode he takes viewers behind-the-scenes at a different location; like a Chinese restaurant in L.A. where he discusses cultural traditions and worker wage issues, and the test gardens and \u003ca href=\"http://casfs.ucsc.edu/about/facilities.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">farms of UC Santa Cruz\u003c/a>, where cutting edge research into sustainable agriculture practices is underway. “There’s this amazing 33-acre farm on an academic campus – it’s unheard of,” says Bittman, shaking his head in disbelief.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Although he describes some of the episodes as heartrending -- like one that explores how pesticides affect neonatal health in Salinas Valley -- the series kicks off on a lighter note as Bittman heads out on a foraging mission with UC Berkeley ethnobotanist Tom Carlson and statistician Philip Stark.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://youtu.be/F8BLU3iaLgM\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We went out with these guys in west Oakland in a neighborhood that doesn’t look like a park. There was stuff all over the place that you could eat,” Bittman recalls. “So you can imagine that in greener areas, if you knew what you were doing and carried a knapsack and a plastic bag, you’d never buy salad again. I’ll tell you that.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What began as a weed hobby (think dandelions and calendula) for \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2015/02/05/snacking-in-between-sidewalks-mapping-abundance-of-wild-edibles-in-the-bay-areas-food-deserts/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Carlson and Stark\u003c/a>, has now morphed into \u003ca href=\"http://forage.berkeley.edu/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">an enthusiastic mission\u003c/a> to make wild edibles a more practical, popular and profitable food source. Their current work includes testing urban weeds for concentrations of heavy metals.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_96701\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-96701\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/flowers.jpg\" alt=\"Edible weeds found around Oakland: Calendula, vetch and plantago.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/flowers.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/flowers-400x267.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/flowers-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/flowers-1440x960.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/flowers-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/flowers-960x640.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Edible weeds found around Oakland: Calendula, vetch and plantago. \u003ccite>(Kristen Rasmussen)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“Foraging is nothing new, but it’s a fantastic opportunity,” says Bittman. “We talked to some farmers who understand that weeds are not necessarily the enemy—that they could be harvested and sold, or used to re-nutrify the soil. Look at the irony; you are using herbicides to kill something that you could be eating. You’re depriving yourself of free food and spreading the use of herbicides.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In another episode, Bittman travels to Hog Island in western Marin County to meet with a \u003ca href=\"http://bml.ucdavis.edu/research/faculty/tessa-hill/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Tessa Hill\u003c/a> of UC Davis, who is studying the impacts of ocean acidification on oysters. As CO2 levels rise, it causes the ocean’s pH levels to become increasingly acidic. “Because of the acidity, the oyster shells get thinner, grow more slowly and are more prone to early death,” Bittman explains. Although the research may yield some clues about how \u003ca href=\"https://hogislandoysters.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">local oyster farmers\u003c/a> might employ new management strategies to help deal with the acidity, Bittman says he simply hopes to draw the public’s attention to the problem.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_96702\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1201px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-96702\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/bittman-boat.jpg\" alt=\"Bittman discusses oysters with UC Davis' Tessa Hill in Marshall, CA. \" width=\"1201\" height=\"901\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/bittman-boat.jpg 1201w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/bittman-boat-400x300.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/bittman-boat-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/bittman-boat-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/bittman-boat-960x720.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1201px) 100vw, 1201px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bittman discusses oysters with UC Davis' Tessa Hill in Marshall, CA. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of the University of California)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In one of the more solution-based programs, Bittman hits the lunch tables at a public school in San Francisco. Here, researchers are studying the effects of \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfusdfuturedining.org/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">district-wide initiatives\u003c/a> aimed at redesigning the school meal experience and making it more nutritious. “They’re trying to offer more choices, nicer eating spaces, outdoor and portable spaces and even grab-and-go stuff. They are just going to look at every option until they come up with a better system that they can afford.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Surprisingly, one subject the series’ producers didn’t manage to cover in these ten episodes is one that’s most top of mind in California: the drought. Bittman says it’s on his list for the next season of programs (if there is a next season). In the meantime, you can get his take on the drought and allay any guilt you may have about eating almonds by reading one of\u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2015/06/03/opinion/mark-bittman-fear-of-almonds.html?_r=0\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"> his recent New York Times posts\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You can also read many of his other editorials about GMOs, diets, livestock welfare, farmworker wages and other hot topics in “\u003ca href=\"http://www.penguinrandomhouse.com/books/246578/a-bone-to-pick-by-mark-bittman-the-new-york-times-bestselling-author/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">A Bone to Pick\u003c/a>,” a recently released compilation of Bittman’s popular New York Times columns.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Although the \u003cem>California Matters\u003c/em> series is regionally focused, the stories being covered seem relevant to viewers across America. As Bittman pointed out in that same editorial mentioned above, “…because such a significant fraction of our food is produced in California, problems for California agriculture are problems for all of us.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, Bittman’s life will be touched more directly and visibly by problems such as drought as he settles in for another year in the sun-scorched state.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I asked him if there was anything he has been missing about New York in terms of the food. My question was met with a resounding “Nah.” After a brief pause he added, “Maybe a couple of restaurants. Maybe the excitement of having new foods appear in the summertime. But I ate better this winter in Berkeley than I do most summers in New York. It’s really just paradise here when it comes to food.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He seems to have no qualms about trading the Big Apple for a Meyer lemon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Join Mark Bittman for a live Twitter chat on June 10, 2015 at 12:00 PM PST.\u003cbr>\n\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cimg class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-96706\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/bittman-twitter-chat.jpg\" alt=\"Mark Bittman Twitter Chat\" width=\"600\" height=\"480\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/bittman-twitter-chat.jpg 600w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/bittman-twitter-chat-400x320.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\">\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Find out what’s in store as New York Times food columnist Mark Bittman hits the road in California for his new online series. Watch the first episode about foraging in the East Bay: \u003cem>Take a Walk on the Wild (Edibles) Side\u003c/em>. \r\n\r\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Gushing over the Meyer lemons growing in his backyard was one of the first signs that Mark Bittman was \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2015/03/18/dining/mark-bittman-revels-in-california-produce.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">falling for California\u003c/a>. The celebrated food writer and New York Times columnist began what was supposed to be a semester-long stint as a visiting fellow at the \u003ca href=\"http://food.berkeley.edu/\">Berkeley Food Institute\u003c/a> in January 2015. But Bittman has decided to stay on for another academic year, at least. Besides continuing to lecture for the Food Institute, this fall he’ll have an official appointment at Berkeley’s Journalism School. He may also have an opportunity to create more programs for his new online video series, \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCl-FXGBB36Yd4xOFWSKc0Dg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">\u003cem>California Matters\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, premiering today, June 8, 2015.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://markbittman.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Bittman\u003c/a> came up with the idea for the video series as a platform for doing what he does in most of his writing these days: plunge headlong into a vast array of food-related issues and decipher them for the public. Whether exploring injustices and innovations or unpacking science and policy, he generally does it with equal frankness and gusto. One of the most outspoken advocates for \u003ca href=\"http://www.slate.com/articles/life/food/2014/11/michael_pollan_and_mark_bittman_s_food_policy_proposal_at_the_stone_barns.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">overhauling many of America’s food systems\u003c/a> (I’ve heard him referred to as the east coast’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.ted.com/speakers/michael_pollan\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Michael Pollan\u003c/a>), Bittman’s rants can engender total devotion or harsh critique. Although being an on-camera host is not his usual medium, Bittman’s casual vibe and quintessential New York voice might play just as well on video as his words do on the page.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In each 4-7 minute episode, Bittman introduces viewers to different researchers, entrepreneurs, educators and thinkers from the University of California (UC) network who are working to better understand and improve the food we eat and the systems that support it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I wanted to find people who are doing interesting things and talk to them,” says Bittman. \"I thought we could make their work more easily and widely understood. And I think we succeeded.”\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/4n1PvH4B1Vo'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/4n1PvH4B1Vo'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was also a good way for Bittman to get to know his new home state, and probably helped tip the scales in favor of extending his stay in the Bay Area. “There’s just nothing I’d rather do than travel around California looking at food-related stuff,” says Bittman. “There are a million stories out there.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In \u003cem>California Matters\u003c/em>, Bittman traipses up and down the state in search of those stories. In each episode he takes viewers behind-the-scenes at a different location; like a Chinese restaurant in L.A. where he discusses cultural traditions and worker wage issues, and the test gardens and \u003ca href=\"http://casfs.ucsc.edu/about/facilities.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">farms of UC Santa Cruz\u003c/a>, where cutting edge research into sustainable agriculture practices is underway. “There’s this amazing 33-acre farm on an academic campus – it’s unheard of,” says Bittman, shaking his head in disbelief.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Although he describes some of the episodes as heartrending -- like one that explores how pesticides affect neonatal health in Salinas Valley -- the series kicks off on a lighter note as Bittman heads out on a foraging mission with UC Berkeley ethnobotanist Tom Carlson and statistician Philip Stark.\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/F8BLU3iaLgM'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/F8BLU3iaLgM'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cp>“We went out with these guys in west Oakland in a neighborhood that doesn’t look like a park. There was stuff all over the place that you could eat,” Bittman recalls. “So you can imagine that in greener areas, if you knew what you were doing and carried a knapsack and a plastic bag, you’d never buy salad again. I’ll tell you that.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What began as a weed hobby (think dandelions and calendula) for \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2015/02/05/snacking-in-between-sidewalks-mapping-abundance-of-wild-edibles-in-the-bay-areas-food-deserts/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Carlson and Stark\u003c/a>, has now morphed into \u003ca href=\"http://forage.berkeley.edu/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">an enthusiastic mission\u003c/a> to make wild edibles a more practical, popular and profitable food source. Their current work includes testing urban weeds for concentrations of heavy metals.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_96701\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-96701\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/flowers.jpg\" alt=\"Edible weeds found around Oakland: Calendula, vetch and plantago.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/flowers.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/flowers-400x267.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/flowers-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/flowers-1440x960.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/flowers-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/flowers-960x640.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Edible weeds found around Oakland: Calendula, vetch and plantago. \u003ccite>(Kristen Rasmussen)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“Foraging is nothing new, but it’s a fantastic opportunity,” says Bittman. “We talked to some farmers who understand that weeds are not necessarily the enemy—that they could be harvested and sold, or used to re-nutrify the soil. Look at the irony; you are using herbicides to kill something that you could be eating. You’re depriving yourself of free food and spreading the use of herbicides.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In another episode, Bittman travels to Hog Island in western Marin County to meet with a \u003ca href=\"http://bml.ucdavis.edu/research/faculty/tessa-hill/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Tessa Hill\u003c/a> of UC Davis, who is studying the impacts of ocean acidification on oysters. As CO2 levels rise, it causes the ocean’s pH levels to become increasingly acidic. “Because of the acidity, the oyster shells get thinner, grow more slowly and are more prone to early death,” Bittman explains. Although the research may yield some clues about how \u003ca href=\"https://hogislandoysters.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">local oyster farmers\u003c/a> might employ new management strategies to help deal with the acidity, Bittman says he simply hopes to draw the public’s attention to the problem.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_96702\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1201px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-96702\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/bittman-boat.jpg\" alt=\"Bittman discusses oysters with UC Davis' Tessa Hill in Marshall, CA. \" width=\"1201\" height=\"901\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/bittman-boat.jpg 1201w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/bittman-boat-400x300.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/bittman-boat-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/bittman-boat-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/bittman-boat-960x720.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1201px) 100vw, 1201px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bittman discusses oysters with UC Davis' Tessa Hill in Marshall, CA. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of the University of California)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In one of the more solution-based programs, Bittman hits the lunch tables at a public school in San Francisco. Here, researchers are studying the effects of \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfusdfuturedining.org/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">district-wide initiatives\u003c/a> aimed at redesigning the school meal experience and making it more nutritious. “They’re trying to offer more choices, nicer eating spaces, outdoor and portable spaces and even grab-and-go stuff. They are just going to look at every option until they come up with a better system that they can afford.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Surprisingly, one subject the series’ producers didn’t manage to cover in these ten episodes is one that’s most top of mind in California: the drought. Bittman says it’s on his list for the next season of programs (if there is a next season). In the meantime, you can get his take on the drought and allay any guilt you may have about eating almonds by reading one of\u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2015/06/03/opinion/mark-bittman-fear-of-almonds.html?_r=0\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"> his recent New York Times posts\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You can also read many of his other editorials about GMOs, diets, livestock welfare, farmworker wages and other hot topics in “\u003ca href=\"http://www.penguinrandomhouse.com/books/246578/a-bone-to-pick-by-mark-bittman-the-new-york-times-bestselling-author/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">A Bone to Pick\u003c/a>,” a recently released compilation of Bittman’s popular New York Times columns.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Although the \u003cem>California Matters\u003c/em> series is regionally focused, the stories being covered seem relevant to viewers across America. As Bittman pointed out in that same editorial mentioned above, “…because such a significant fraction of our food is produced in California, problems for California agriculture are problems for all of us.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, Bittman’s life will be touched more directly and visibly by problems such as drought as he settles in for another year in the sun-scorched state.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I asked him if there was anything he has been missing about New York in terms of the food. My question was met with a resounding “Nah.” After a brief pause he added, “Maybe a couple of restaurants. Maybe the excitement of having new foods appear in the summertime. But I ate better this winter in Berkeley than I do most summers in New York. It’s really just paradise here when it comes to food.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He seems to have no qualms about trading the Big Apple for a Meyer lemon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Join Mark Bittman for a live Twitter chat on June 10, 2015 at 12:00 PM PST.\u003cbr>\n\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cimg class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-96706\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/bittman-twitter-chat.jpg\" alt=\"Mark Bittman Twitter Chat\" width=\"600\" height=\"480\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/bittman-twitter-chat.jpg 600w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/bittman-twitter-chat-400x320.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\">\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "How Dorothea Lange Taught Us To See Hunger And Humanity",
"title": "How Dorothea Lange Taught Us To See Hunger And Humanity",
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"content": "\u003cp>Documentary photographer Dorothea Lange had a favorite saying: \"A camera is a tool for learning how to see without a camera.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_96436\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 200px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-96436\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/3551599565_b79e941b2a_o_custom-fab2a02ea3349e297ed8aef1abca8dc141a46cda.jpg\" alt=\"Lange's iconic photograph of Florence Owens Thompson, often referred to as "Migrant Mother." It was taken at a camp full of destitute pea pickers in Nipomo, Calif., in 1936.\" width=\"200\" height=\"249\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Lange's iconic photograph of Florence Owens Thompson, often referred to as \"Migrant Mother.\" It was taken at a camp full of destitute pea pickers in Nipomo, Calif., in 1936. \u003ccite>(Dorothea Lange/Library of Congress )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>And perhaps no one did more to reveal the human toll of the Great Depression than Lange, who was born on May 27, 1895. Her photographs gave us an unflinching — but also deeply humanizing — look at the struggles of displaced farmers, migrant laborers, sharecroppers and others at the bottom of the American farm economy as it reeled through the 1930s.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lange worked for the Farm Security Administration in the 1930s, chronicling rural poverty across America and the agency's efforts to provide relief.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Her most famous photo is often referred to as \"Migrant Mother.\" Shot in 1936 at a campsite full of unemployed pea pickers in Nipomo, Calif., the image features \u003ca href=\"http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/roadshow/fts/kansascity_201307F03.html\">Florence Owen Thompson\u003c/a>, a poor farmworker flanked by two of her seven children, while a third, a baby wrapped in burlap, rests on her lap.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Freezing rain had destroyed the pea crop. Thompson and her kids \"had been living on frozen vegetables from the surrounding fields, and birds that the children killed,\" Lange wrote in her notes. \"She had just sold the tires from her car to buy food.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_96437\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 200px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-96437\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/806362_custom-b4f8f07fba03775c2b11d334f95c990b42000097.jpg\" alt=\"A man waits in a bread line in San Francisco during the winter of 1933\" width=\"200\" height=\"245\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A man waits in a bread line in San Francisco during the winter of 1933 \u003ccite>(Dorothea Lange/Library of Congress )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>But you don't need to read Lange's notes to sense this desperation. So much is conveyed in the worry etched on Thompson's face, worn far beyond her 32 years at the time the photo was taken.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Before she began documenting the travails of the poor, Lange was a portrait photographer for the well-to-do in San Francisco. So she knew that images of individuals would have far more emotional impact than those showing barren landscapes, her biographer, Linda Gordon, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=126289455\">told\u003c/a> NPR in 2010. Some of Lange's early photos of the downtrodden include images of hungry, unemployed men in San Francisco's bread lines.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As Anne Whiston Spirn \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=92656801\">recounts\u003c/a> in \u003cem>Daring To Look\u003c/em>, her book about Lange's Depression-era work, Lange turned her lens to agricultural workers in early 1935, traveling to California's Imperial Valley.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_96438\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-96438\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/8b27001u-1-_custom-d950ef016733c2ebcea86a9b61705563bc7f08cb-e1432747861641.jpg\" alt='\"Off for the melon fields (Mexican labor).\" Imperial Valley, Calif. 1935' width=\"1920\" height=\"1526\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">\"Off for the melon fields (Mexican labor).\" Imperial Valley, Calif. 1935 \u003ccite>(Dorothea Lange/Library of Congress )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There, Spirn writes, Lange documented the situation of Mexican, Filipino and \"white American\" farm workers \"living in hovels made of cartons, branches, and scraps of wood and cloth, with primitive privies, no waste disposal, no potable water.\" One of Lange's captions noted: \"On these workers the crops of California depend.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Later that year, Spirn says, Lange's images and field notes from the Imperial Valley helped sway officials to fund a camp for migrants in California.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_96439\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-96439\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/8b33921u-1-c5d280ff7a5b1c82e32eded0ff2afdbc3f623227-e1432747909580.jpg\" alt='A sharecropper plants sweet potatoes with his 13-year-old daughter near Olive Hill, N.C., July 1939. \"Her father hopes to send her to school,\" Lange noted' width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A sharecropper plants sweet potatoes with his 13-year-old daughter near Olive Hill, N.C., July 1939. \"Her father hopes to send her to school,\" Lange noted \u003ccite>(Dorothea Lange/Library of Congress )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Throughout her career documenting the Great Depression, Lange took great pains to include detailed captions with her photographs. In her daybook, she jotted down facts about the people she captured on film, like how much they earned and paid for food, and the number and ages of their children, Spirn says. Lange also made it a point to engage her subjects in conversation, and her notes included direct quotes from these chats.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_96440\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-96440\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/8b29790u_custom-6836fd45e5fe661639a62239f992685ba9a0a4c5-e1432747940458.jpg\" alt=\"A family traveling between Dallas and Austin, Texas. "The people have left their home and connections in South Texas, and hope to reach the Arkansas Delta for work in the cotton fields," Lang wrote in her notes. "Penniless people. No food and three gallons of gas in the tank. The father is trying to repair a tire. Three children. Father says, 'It's tough but life's tough anyway you take it.' "\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1555\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A family traveling between Dallas and Austin, Texas. \"The people have left their home and connections in South Texas, and hope to reach the Arkansas Delta for work in the cotton fields,\" Lang wrote in her notes. \"Penniless people. No food and three gallons of gas in the tank. The father is trying to repair a tire. Three children. Father says, 'It's tough but life's tough anyway you take it.' \" \u003ccite>(Dorothea Lange/Library of Congress )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Lange once wrote that \"half the value\" of her fieldwork was in these captions. Yet as her images became more widely distributed, they were often published without these notes — a situation that made Lange \"furious all of her life,\" according to Gordon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even so, Lange well understood that photographs can speak a powerful visual language of their own. As she once said: \"No country has ever closely scrutinized itself visually ... I know what we could make of it if people only thought we could dare look at ourselves.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Copyright 2015 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Documentary photographer Dorothea Lange had a favorite saying: \"A camera is a tool for learning how to see without a camera.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_96436\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 200px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-96436\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/3551599565_b79e941b2a_o_custom-fab2a02ea3349e297ed8aef1abca8dc141a46cda.jpg\" alt=\"Lange's iconic photograph of Florence Owens Thompson, often referred to as "Migrant Mother." It was taken at a camp full of destitute pea pickers in Nipomo, Calif., in 1936.\" width=\"200\" height=\"249\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Lange's iconic photograph of Florence Owens Thompson, often referred to as \"Migrant Mother.\" It was taken at a camp full of destitute pea pickers in Nipomo, Calif., in 1936. \u003ccite>(Dorothea Lange/Library of Congress )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>And perhaps no one did more to reveal the human toll of the Great Depression than Lange, who was born on May 27, 1895. Her photographs gave us an unflinching — but also deeply humanizing — look at the struggles of displaced farmers, migrant laborers, sharecroppers and others at the bottom of the American farm economy as it reeled through the 1930s.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lange worked for the Farm Security Administration in the 1930s, chronicling rural poverty across America and the agency's efforts to provide relief.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Her most famous photo is often referred to as \"Migrant Mother.\" Shot in 1936 at a campsite full of unemployed pea pickers in Nipomo, Calif., the image features \u003ca href=\"http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/roadshow/fts/kansascity_201307F03.html\">Florence Owen Thompson\u003c/a>, a poor farmworker flanked by two of her seven children, while a third, a baby wrapped in burlap, rests on her lap.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Freezing rain had destroyed the pea crop. Thompson and her kids \"had been living on frozen vegetables from the surrounding fields, and birds that the children killed,\" Lange wrote in her notes. \"She had just sold the tires from her car to buy food.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_96437\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 200px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-96437\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/806362_custom-b4f8f07fba03775c2b11d334f95c990b42000097.jpg\" alt=\"A man waits in a bread line in San Francisco during the winter of 1933\" width=\"200\" height=\"245\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A man waits in a bread line in San Francisco during the winter of 1933 \u003ccite>(Dorothea Lange/Library of Congress )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>But you don't need to read Lange's notes to sense this desperation. So much is conveyed in the worry etched on Thompson's face, worn far beyond her 32 years at the time the photo was taken.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Before she began documenting the travails of the poor, Lange was a portrait photographer for the well-to-do in San Francisco. So she knew that images of individuals would have far more emotional impact than those showing barren landscapes, her biographer, Linda Gordon, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=126289455\">told\u003c/a> NPR in 2010. Some of Lange's early photos of the downtrodden include images of hungry, unemployed men in San Francisco's bread lines.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As Anne Whiston Spirn \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=92656801\">recounts\u003c/a> in \u003cem>Daring To Look\u003c/em>, her book about Lange's Depression-era work, Lange turned her lens to agricultural workers in early 1935, traveling to California's Imperial Valley.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_96438\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-96438\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/8b27001u-1-_custom-d950ef016733c2ebcea86a9b61705563bc7f08cb-e1432747861641.jpg\" alt='\"Off for the melon fields (Mexican labor).\" Imperial Valley, Calif. 1935' width=\"1920\" height=\"1526\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">\"Off for the melon fields (Mexican labor).\" Imperial Valley, Calif. 1935 \u003ccite>(Dorothea Lange/Library of Congress )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There, Spirn writes, Lange documented the situation of Mexican, Filipino and \"white American\" farm workers \"living in hovels made of cartons, branches, and scraps of wood and cloth, with primitive privies, no waste disposal, no potable water.\" One of Lange's captions noted: \"On these workers the crops of California depend.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Later that year, Spirn says, Lange's images and field notes from the Imperial Valley helped sway officials to fund a camp for migrants in California.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_96439\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-96439\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/8b33921u-1-c5d280ff7a5b1c82e32eded0ff2afdbc3f623227-e1432747909580.jpg\" alt='A sharecropper plants sweet potatoes with his 13-year-old daughter near Olive Hill, N.C., July 1939. \"Her father hopes to send her to school,\" Lange noted' width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A sharecropper plants sweet potatoes with his 13-year-old daughter near Olive Hill, N.C., July 1939. \"Her father hopes to send her to school,\" Lange noted \u003ccite>(Dorothea Lange/Library of Congress )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Throughout her career documenting the Great Depression, Lange took great pains to include detailed captions with her photographs. In her daybook, she jotted down facts about the people she captured on film, like how much they earned and paid for food, and the number and ages of their children, Spirn says. Lange also made it a point to engage her subjects in conversation, and her notes included direct quotes from these chats.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_96440\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-96440\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/8b29790u_custom-6836fd45e5fe661639a62239f992685ba9a0a4c5-e1432747940458.jpg\" alt=\"A family traveling between Dallas and Austin, Texas. "The people have left their home and connections in South Texas, and hope to reach the Arkansas Delta for work in the cotton fields," Lang wrote in her notes. "Penniless people. No food and three gallons of gas in the tank. The father is trying to repair a tire. Three children. Father says, 'It's tough but life's tough anyway you take it.' "\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1555\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A family traveling between Dallas and Austin, Texas. \"The people have left their home and connections in South Texas, and hope to reach the Arkansas Delta for work in the cotton fields,\" Lang wrote in her notes. \"Penniless people. No food and three gallons of gas in the tank. The father is trying to repair a tire. Three children. Father says, 'It's tough but life's tough anyway you take it.' \" \u003ccite>(Dorothea Lange/Library of Congress )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Lange once wrote that \"half the value\" of her fieldwork was in these captions. Yet as her images became more widely distributed, they were often published without these notes — a situation that made Lange \"furious all of her life,\" according to Gordon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even so, Lange well understood that photographs can speak a powerful visual language of their own. As she once said: \"No country has ever closely scrutinized itself visually ... I know what we could make of it if people only thought we could dare look at ourselves.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Copyright 2015 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Lunch With Monet, Dinner With Jackson Pollock",
"title": "Lunch With Monet, Dinner With Jackson Pollock",
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"content": "\u003cp>Regardless of our cooking prowess, all of us have undoubtedly spent some time in the kitchen. We all need to eat, and our preferences are intensely personal. Yet food is often overlooked in the biographies of anyone who wasn't a chef or gastronomic icon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Two new books focusing on the culinary lives of artists — \u003ca href=\"http://www.monetspalate.com/monets_palate_cookbook.html\">Monet's Palate Cookbook\u003c/a>\u003cem>, \u003c/em>by Aileen Bordman and Derek Fell, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.assouline.com/dinner-with-jackson-pollock.html\">Dinner with Jackson Pollock\u003c/a>\u003cem>, \u003c/em>by Robyn Lea --\u003cem> \u003c/em>show this to be an oversight. The artists' approaches to food provide a new way of thinking about their very different approaches to art, and of understanding the artists themselves.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As Francesca Pollock, the artist's niece, writes in \u003cem>Dinner\u003c/em>'s introduction, \"He painted the same way he cooked: Endlessly using leftovers; keeping and re-using; trying one color or shape and then another. There was never ever any waste. Painting, like cooking, was a way of living.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_95373\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/04/page-12_custom-d0a517dd65e0256eb7f6cc0f3e8754a3b48cd8ef-e1429830761670.jpg\" alt=\"Robyn Lea\" width=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-95373\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Robyn Lea \u003ccite>(Robyn Lea)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>A giant of abstract expressionism, Pollock has an outward reputation \"as a narcissistic action-painter fueled to alcoholic self-destruction,\" author Lea writes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the handwritten recipes found at his house reveal a quieter, domestic side. His apple pie even won first place in a local pie baking competition.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The impressionist Claude Monet is best known for his vivid landscapes of the French countryside in Normandy, north of Paris. The region, a \u003ca href=\"http://www.monetspalate.com/film/monets_palate_preview.html\">companion film\u003c/a> also called \u003cem>Monet's Palate\u003c/em> tells us, \"inspired Monet's passion for art and his passion for fine cuisine. Both of Monet's palates met at his home in Giverny\" — whose flower gardens are featured in so many of his paintings.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_95374\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1031px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/04/water-lilies-and-japanese-bridge-1897-1899-monet_custom-4a1c268a31cf8dfe605a4db51cd8ea25721f5986.jpg\" alt=\"Monet's <em>Waterlilies and Japanese bridge, </em>1899. Monet turned a parcel of land next to his land in Giverny into a Japanese-style water garden.\" width=\"1031\" height=\"1000\" class=\"size-full wp-image-95374\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/04/water-lilies-and-japanese-bridge-1897-1899-monet_custom-4a1c268a31cf8dfe605a4db51cd8ea25721f5986.jpg 1031w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/04/water-lilies-and-japanese-bridge-1897-1899-monet_custom-4a1c268a31cf8dfe605a4db51cd8ea25721f5986-400x388.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/04/water-lilies-and-japanese-bridge-1897-1899-monet_custom-4a1c268a31cf8dfe605a4db51cd8ea25721f5986-800x776.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/04/water-lilies-and-japanese-bridge-1897-1899-monet_custom-4a1c268a31cf8dfe605a4db51cd8ea25721f5986-960x931.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/04/water-lilies-and-japanese-bridge-1897-1899-monet_custom-4a1c268a31cf8dfe605a4db51cd8ea25721f5986-32x32.jpg 32w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1031px) 100vw, 1031px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Monet's \u003cem>Waterlilies and Japanese bridge, \u003c/em>1899. Monet turned a parcel of land next to his land in Giverny into a Japanese-style water garden. \u003ccite>(Claude Monet/Wikimedia)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Food only occasionally appears in Monet's work, mostly in still-lifes. But though he never painted his private kitchen garden, at 2.5 acres, it was sizable in its own right, and surely at least as much a fixture in his life as its more famous blooming cousin. And Monet himself put a premium on food, according to the authors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_95375\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/04/apples_and_grapes_custom-45afcc4062810b36c3d1a3c959e7cae81e08d6aa-e1429830892924.jpg\" alt=\"Monet's Apples and Grapes, circa 1879-80\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1461\" class=\"size-full wp-image-95375\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Monet's\u003cem> Apples and Grapes\u003c/em>, circa 1879-80 \u003ccite>(Claude Monet/Wikimedia)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"Almost every franc that he earned, after taking care of his family's welfare, he would spend on the freshest ingredients for meals and improving the interior\u003cbr>and exterior of his house\" — originally, a farmhouse and cider press, Bordman and Fell write. Monet, we learn, employed a cook, and his diet included eggs from his own chickens. He was actively involved in directing which vegetables were planted (he liked experimenting with new varieties), and which ones ended up on the dinner table.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Neither of the books are pure biography, though they do delve into the artists' private domestic lives. Filled with recipes — Pollock's are drawn from his own collection, while those in the Monet book are inspired by his gardens and by French cuisine — the books give readers a peek into two famous kitchens.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Imagine Monet's chef wandering out into the vast gardens to pick peaches and apples for a fruit gratin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_95382\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/04/claude_monet_-_jar_of_peaches.jpg\" alt=\"Monet's<em> Jar of Peaches</em>, circa 1866. The artist grew peaches along the wall of his kitchen garden.\" width=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-95382\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/04/claude_monet_-_jar_of_peaches.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/04/claude_monet_-_jar_of_peaches-400x490.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Monet's\u003cem> Jar of Peaches\u003c/em>, circa 1866. The artist grew peaches along the wall of his kitchen garden. \u003ccite>(Claude Monet/Wikimedia)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Or 22-year-old Pollock on a cross-country roadtrip with his brother during the Depression, eating cornmeal Johnny cakes and whatever cheap food they could scrounge up.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A normal biography may portray the artists as \"Artists\" (with a capital \"a\"), but looking at any historical figure through the lens of food makes them more recognizable, accessible and — ultimately — human.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Tove Danovich is a writer based in New York City.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>Peach, Apple and Raisin Gratin With Walnut Streusel\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>6 dessert servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_95385\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/04/monets-palate.jpg\" alt=\"Monet's Palate Cookbook The Artist & His Kitchen Garden at Giverny by Aileen Bordman\" width=\"300\" height=\"325\" class=\"size-full wp-image-95385\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Monet's Palate Cookbook\u003cbr>The Artist & His Kitchen Garden at Giverny\u003cbr>by Aileen Bordman\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Streusel:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>2/3 cup (80 g) all-purpose flour\u003cbr>3 tablespoons (35 g) firmly packed dark brown sugar\u003cbr>2 tablespoons (25 g) sugar\u003cbr>1 teaspoon ground cinnamon\u003cbr>1⁄8 teaspoon finely chopped fresh rosemary\u003cbr>1⁄8 teaspoon salt\u003cbr>1/2 cup (60 g) chopped walnuts\u003cbr>1/2 cup (1 stick) (120 g) unsalted butter, melted\u003cbr>1/8 teaspoon vanilla\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Gratin:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>2 cups (450 g) thinly sliced\u003cbr>peeled peaches\u003cbr>1 cup (175 g) thinly sliced tart apple\u003cbr>1 ⁄ 2 cup (100 g) sugar\u003cbr>1 ⁄ 4 cup (40 g) raisins\u003cbr>1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Monet grew his own peaches, espaliered against a walled enclosure that surrounded his vegetable garden. But it wasn't enough for Monet to grow the fruit; a white-flesh peach called pêche de la vigne also appeared in one of his paintings. A similar peach called Spring Snow is available in the United States. Here the beautiful fruit is combined with apples and raisins and topped with a walnut streusel kissed with rosemary in a gratin that is sure to please. Serve with vanilla ice cream, whipped cream or crème fraîche.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For streusel: Place flour, both sugars, cinnamon, rosemary and salt\u003cbr>in a medium-size bowl. Using a fork, stir to combine. Stir in walnuts.\u003cbr>Add melted butter and vanilla and stir to combine. Set aside until\u003cbr>ready to use.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For gratin: Preheat oven to 400 F (200 C). Butter a 9-inch (23 cm)\u003cbr>glass pie dish. Combine peaches, apple, sugar, raisins and lemon juice\u003cbr>in a medium-size bowl. Transfer to prepared dish. Bake until fruit is\u003cbr>tender, about 35 minutes. Spread streusel evenly over fruit. Return to\u003cbr>oven and bake until golden brown, about 10 minutes. Let cool to room\u003cbr>temperature and serve.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Excerpted from \u003ca href=\"http://www.monetspalate.com/\">Monet's Palate Cookbook\u003c/a> by Aileen Bordman and Derek Fell; reprinted with permission of Gibbs Smith.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>Jackson's Prize-Winning Apple Pie\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>(Recipe as written by Jackson Pollock)\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Serves 8\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_95384\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/04/dinner-jackson-pollock.jpg\" alt=\"Dinner With Jackson Pollock Recipes, Art & Nature by Robyn Lea\" width=\"300\" height=\"363\" class=\"size-full wp-image-95384\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dinner With Jackson Pollock\u003cbr>Recipes, Art & Nature\u003cbr>by Robyn Lea\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For the filling:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>4 lb granny smith apples, or any combination of tart apples\u003cbr>¼ cup water\u003cbr>1 cup sugar, or less if desired\u003cbr>1 tsp cinnamon\u003cbr>½ tsp nutmeg\u003cbr>1 tsp all-purpose flour, sifted\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For the pie crust:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>2½ cups all-purpose flour\u003cbr>1 level tsp baking powder\u003cbr>1 level tsp salt\u003cbr>1½ cups cold butter\u003cbr>2 egg yolks,\u003cbr>plus 1 whole egg for egg wash\u003cbr>½ cup cold milk,\u003cbr>plus more as needed\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To prepare the filling: Peel, core, and thinly slice apples. Stew apples in a pot with a little water to cover the fruit, plus the sugar and spices, until just cooked. Chill apples in a little of the juice. When cold, sift flour over the apples and stir gently to combine. Set aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preheat oven to 450°F. To make the pie crust: Combine flour, baking powder, and salt. Add butter and cut in until mixture is crumbly. Add egg yolks and mix with enough milk to make a dough. Roll out dough lightly. Place the pastry in a greased 10‑inch round pie dish, allowing pastry to overhang the edge of the pan by about 1 inch; trim away excess dough, roll it into a ball, and set aside to make the top crust. Be sure there are no cracks in the bottom crust; seal them by pressing edges together with fingers. Pour apple mixture into pie shell and distribute evenly.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For a simple top crust, roll out the remaining dough, slide the pastry sheet onto the rolling pin, and unroll it on top of the apple pie filling. Allow top crust to overhang the edge of the pan by about 1 inch; trim away excess dough, then pinch the top and bottom crusts together all around the rim to seal the pie. Prick the top crust with a fork in about a dozen places, or slice a few small openings with a knife, to allow steam to escape. Brush top pastry with egg wash and sprinkle lightly with a pinch or two of sugar.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For a more elaborate lattice-style top, roll out the remaining dough, cut into ½‑inch strips, and weave strips across the top of the filling. Brush lattice strips with egg wash and lightly sprinkle with a pinch or two of sugar.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place the pie in the center of oven and bake 10‑15 minutes, then reduce oven to 325°F and bake 25‑30 minutes more.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Excerpted from \u003ca href=\"http://www.assouline.com/dinner-with-jackson-pollock.html\">Dinner With Jackson Pollock: Recipes, Art & Nature\u003c/a>, by Robyn Lea, courtesy of Assouline, copyright 2015.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2015 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Two new books focus on the culinary lives of these two artists. Turns out, their approaches to food provide a new way of thinking about their two very different approaches to art.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Regardless of our cooking prowess, all of us have undoubtedly spent some time in the kitchen. We all need to eat, and our preferences are intensely personal. Yet food is often overlooked in the biographies of anyone who wasn't a chef or gastronomic icon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Two new books focusing on the culinary lives of artists — \u003ca href=\"http://www.monetspalate.com/monets_palate_cookbook.html\">Monet's Palate Cookbook\u003c/a>\u003cem>, \u003c/em>by Aileen Bordman and Derek Fell, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.assouline.com/dinner-with-jackson-pollock.html\">Dinner with Jackson Pollock\u003c/a>\u003cem>, \u003c/em>by Robyn Lea --\u003cem> \u003c/em>show this to be an oversight. The artists' approaches to food provide a new way of thinking about their very different approaches to art, and of understanding the artists themselves.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As Francesca Pollock, the artist's niece, writes in \u003cem>Dinner\u003c/em>'s introduction, \"He painted the same way he cooked: Endlessly using leftovers; keeping and re-using; trying one color or shape and then another. There was never ever any waste. Painting, like cooking, was a way of living.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_95373\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/04/page-12_custom-d0a517dd65e0256eb7f6cc0f3e8754a3b48cd8ef-e1429830761670.jpg\" alt=\"Robyn Lea\" width=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-95373\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Robyn Lea \u003ccite>(Robyn Lea)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>A giant of abstract expressionism, Pollock has an outward reputation \"as a narcissistic action-painter fueled to alcoholic self-destruction,\" author Lea writes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the handwritten recipes found at his house reveal a quieter, domestic side. His apple pie even won first place in a local pie baking competition.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The impressionist Claude Monet is best known for his vivid landscapes of the French countryside in Normandy, north of Paris. The region, a \u003ca href=\"http://www.monetspalate.com/film/monets_palate_preview.html\">companion film\u003c/a> also called \u003cem>Monet's Palate\u003c/em> tells us, \"inspired Monet's passion for art and his passion for fine cuisine. Both of Monet's palates met at his home in Giverny\" — whose flower gardens are featured in so many of his paintings.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_95374\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1031px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/04/water-lilies-and-japanese-bridge-1897-1899-monet_custom-4a1c268a31cf8dfe605a4db51cd8ea25721f5986.jpg\" alt=\"Monet's <em>Waterlilies and Japanese bridge, </em>1899. Monet turned a parcel of land next to his land in Giverny into a Japanese-style water garden.\" width=\"1031\" height=\"1000\" class=\"size-full wp-image-95374\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/04/water-lilies-and-japanese-bridge-1897-1899-monet_custom-4a1c268a31cf8dfe605a4db51cd8ea25721f5986.jpg 1031w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/04/water-lilies-and-japanese-bridge-1897-1899-monet_custom-4a1c268a31cf8dfe605a4db51cd8ea25721f5986-400x388.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/04/water-lilies-and-japanese-bridge-1897-1899-monet_custom-4a1c268a31cf8dfe605a4db51cd8ea25721f5986-800x776.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/04/water-lilies-and-japanese-bridge-1897-1899-monet_custom-4a1c268a31cf8dfe605a4db51cd8ea25721f5986-960x931.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/04/water-lilies-and-japanese-bridge-1897-1899-monet_custom-4a1c268a31cf8dfe605a4db51cd8ea25721f5986-32x32.jpg 32w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1031px) 100vw, 1031px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Monet's \u003cem>Waterlilies and Japanese bridge, \u003c/em>1899. Monet turned a parcel of land next to his land in Giverny into a Japanese-style water garden. \u003ccite>(Claude Monet/Wikimedia)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Food only occasionally appears in Monet's work, mostly in still-lifes. But though he never painted his private kitchen garden, at 2.5 acres, it was sizable in its own right, and surely at least as much a fixture in his life as its more famous blooming cousin. And Monet himself put a premium on food, according to the authors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_95375\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/04/apples_and_grapes_custom-45afcc4062810b36c3d1a3c959e7cae81e08d6aa-e1429830892924.jpg\" alt=\"Monet's Apples and Grapes, circa 1879-80\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1461\" class=\"size-full wp-image-95375\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Monet's\u003cem> Apples and Grapes\u003c/em>, circa 1879-80 \u003ccite>(Claude Monet/Wikimedia)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"Almost every franc that he earned, after taking care of his family's welfare, he would spend on the freshest ingredients for meals and improving the interior\u003cbr>and exterior of his house\" — originally, a farmhouse and cider press, Bordman and Fell write. Monet, we learn, employed a cook, and his diet included eggs from his own chickens. He was actively involved in directing which vegetables were planted (he liked experimenting with new varieties), and which ones ended up on the dinner table.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Neither of the books are pure biography, though they do delve into the artists' private domestic lives. Filled with recipes — Pollock's are drawn from his own collection, while those in the Monet book are inspired by his gardens and by French cuisine — the books give readers a peek into two famous kitchens.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Imagine Monet's chef wandering out into the vast gardens to pick peaches and apples for a fruit gratin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_95382\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/04/claude_monet_-_jar_of_peaches.jpg\" alt=\"Monet's<em> Jar of Peaches</em>, circa 1866. The artist grew peaches along the wall of his kitchen garden.\" width=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-95382\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/04/claude_monet_-_jar_of_peaches.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/04/claude_monet_-_jar_of_peaches-400x490.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Monet's\u003cem> Jar of Peaches\u003c/em>, circa 1866. The artist grew peaches along the wall of his kitchen garden. \u003ccite>(Claude Monet/Wikimedia)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Or 22-year-old Pollock on a cross-country roadtrip with his brother during the Depression, eating cornmeal Johnny cakes and whatever cheap food they could scrounge up.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A normal biography may portray the artists as \"Artists\" (with a capital \"a\"), but looking at any historical figure through the lens of food makes them more recognizable, accessible and — ultimately — human.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Tove Danovich is a writer based in New York City.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>Peach, Apple and Raisin Gratin With Walnut Streusel\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>6 dessert servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_95385\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/04/monets-palate.jpg\" alt=\"Monet's Palate Cookbook The Artist & His Kitchen Garden at Giverny by Aileen Bordman\" width=\"300\" height=\"325\" class=\"size-full wp-image-95385\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Monet's Palate Cookbook\u003cbr>The Artist & His Kitchen Garden at Giverny\u003cbr>by Aileen Bordman\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Streusel:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>2/3 cup (80 g) all-purpose flour\u003cbr>3 tablespoons (35 g) firmly packed dark brown sugar\u003cbr>2 tablespoons (25 g) sugar\u003cbr>1 teaspoon ground cinnamon\u003cbr>1⁄8 teaspoon finely chopped fresh rosemary\u003cbr>1⁄8 teaspoon salt\u003cbr>1/2 cup (60 g) chopped walnuts\u003cbr>1/2 cup (1 stick) (120 g) unsalted butter, melted\u003cbr>1/8 teaspoon vanilla\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Gratin:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>2 cups (450 g) thinly sliced\u003cbr>peeled peaches\u003cbr>1 cup (175 g) thinly sliced tart apple\u003cbr>1 ⁄ 2 cup (100 g) sugar\u003cbr>1 ⁄ 4 cup (40 g) raisins\u003cbr>1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Monet grew his own peaches, espaliered against a walled enclosure that surrounded his vegetable garden. But it wasn't enough for Monet to grow the fruit; a white-flesh peach called pêche de la vigne also appeared in one of his paintings. A similar peach called Spring Snow is available in the United States. Here the beautiful fruit is combined with apples and raisins and topped with a walnut streusel kissed with rosemary in a gratin that is sure to please. Serve with vanilla ice cream, whipped cream or crème fraîche.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For streusel: Place flour, both sugars, cinnamon, rosemary and salt\u003cbr>in a medium-size bowl. Using a fork, stir to combine. Stir in walnuts.\u003cbr>Add melted butter and vanilla and stir to combine. Set aside until\u003cbr>ready to use.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For gratin: Preheat oven to 400 F (200 C). Butter a 9-inch (23 cm)\u003cbr>glass pie dish. Combine peaches, apple, sugar, raisins and lemon juice\u003cbr>in a medium-size bowl. Transfer to prepared dish. Bake until fruit is\u003cbr>tender, about 35 minutes. Spread streusel evenly over fruit. Return to\u003cbr>oven and bake until golden brown, about 10 minutes. Let cool to room\u003cbr>temperature and serve.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Excerpted from \u003ca href=\"http://www.monetspalate.com/\">Monet's Palate Cookbook\u003c/a> by Aileen Bordman and Derek Fell; reprinted with permission of Gibbs Smith.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>Jackson's Prize-Winning Apple Pie\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>(Recipe as written by Jackson Pollock)\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Serves 8\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_95384\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/04/dinner-jackson-pollock.jpg\" alt=\"Dinner With Jackson Pollock Recipes, Art & Nature by Robyn Lea\" width=\"300\" height=\"363\" class=\"size-full wp-image-95384\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dinner With Jackson Pollock\u003cbr>Recipes, Art & Nature\u003cbr>by Robyn Lea\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For the filling:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>4 lb granny smith apples, or any combination of tart apples\u003cbr>¼ cup water\u003cbr>1 cup sugar, or less if desired\u003cbr>1 tsp cinnamon\u003cbr>½ tsp nutmeg\u003cbr>1 tsp all-purpose flour, sifted\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For the pie crust:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>2½ cups all-purpose flour\u003cbr>1 level tsp baking powder\u003cbr>1 level tsp salt\u003cbr>1½ cups cold butter\u003cbr>2 egg yolks,\u003cbr>plus 1 whole egg for egg wash\u003cbr>½ cup cold milk,\u003cbr>plus more as needed\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To prepare the filling: Peel, core, and thinly slice apples. Stew apples in a pot with a little water to cover the fruit, plus the sugar and spices, until just cooked. Chill apples in a little of the juice. When cold, sift flour over the apples and stir gently to combine. Set aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preheat oven to 450°F. To make the pie crust: Combine flour, baking powder, and salt. Add butter and cut in until mixture is crumbly. Add egg yolks and mix with enough milk to make a dough. Roll out dough lightly. Place the pastry in a greased 10‑inch round pie dish, allowing pastry to overhang the edge of the pan by about 1 inch; trim away excess dough, roll it into a ball, and set aside to make the top crust. Be sure there are no cracks in the bottom crust; seal them by pressing edges together with fingers. Pour apple mixture into pie shell and distribute evenly.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For a simple top crust, roll out the remaining dough, slide the pastry sheet onto the rolling pin, and unroll it on top of the apple pie filling. Allow top crust to overhang the edge of the pan by about 1 inch; trim away excess dough, then pinch the top and bottom crusts together all around the rim to seal the pie. Prick the top crust with a fork in about a dozen places, or slice a few small openings with a knife, to allow steam to escape. Brush top pastry with egg wash and sprinkle lightly with a pinch or two of sugar.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For a more elaborate lattice-style top, roll out the remaining dough, cut into ½‑inch strips, and weave strips across the top of the filling. Brush lattice strips with egg wash and lightly sprinkle with a pinch or two of sugar.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place the pie in the center of oven and bake 10‑15 minutes, then reduce oven to 325°F and bake 25‑30 minutes more.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Excerpted from \u003ca href=\"http://www.assouline.com/dinner-with-jackson-pollock.html\">Dinner With Jackson Pollock: Recipes, Art & Nature\u003c/a>, by Robyn Lea, courtesy of Assouline, copyright 2015.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "The Color of Food: America’s Invisible Farmers",
"title": "The Color of Food: America’s Invisible Farmers",
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"content": "\u003cp>At the height of Black farming in the U.S., a million farmers owned almost 17 million acres of land. Between 1920 and 1996, however, Black land ownership dropped by 70 percent and in 2012, there \u003ca href=\"http://www.agcensus.usda.gov/Publications/2012/Online_Resources/Highlights/Black_Farmers/Highlights_Black_Farmers.pdf\" target=\"_blank\">were only 44,000 Black farmers in the nation\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Thanks to evidence uncovered in a landmark lawsuit \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pigford_v._Glickman\" target=\"_blank\">Pigford v. Glickman\u003c/a>, we now know that the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) denied credit and benefits to Black farmers and gave preferential treatment to White farmers, essentially forcing Black farmers out of agriculture. By 1992, the number of Black farmers in America had declined by 98 percent.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But that’s not all. Across the board, people of color are under-represented in today’s agricultural landscape. According to the \u003ca href=\"http://www.ers.usda.gov/topics/farm-economy/beginning-disadvantaged-farmers/socially-disadvantaged-farmers-race,-hispanic-origin,-and-gender.aspx#.VEaDsRax39V\" target=\"_blank\">latest USDA agriculture census\u003c/a>, Latinos make up 3.2 percent of today’s farm owners, American Indians or Alaska natives make up 1.8 percent, Black or African people make up 1.6 percent, and Asians constitute less that 1 percent.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These are the kinds of facts that propelled me to write \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://thecolorofood.com/order-book/\" target=\"_blank\">The Color of Food: Stories of Race, Resilience, and Farming\u003c/a>\u003c/em>. When I joined the food and agricultural movement as a woman of color, I was immediately struck by the glaring racial disparities that live, not only in the food system regarding food access and health, but in the good food movement itself.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I could see that the face of the movement was not representing communities of color, the very same communities most heavily impacted by a broken food system. I felt like these voices were missing in the discussions about organic farming, rural homesteading, and even food justice and the urban farming projects that were sprouting up across the nation. It seemed the role of people of color in food and agriculture was misrepresented and defined solely in statistics about inequity. I knew our story was richer than that and I thought storytelling from farmers and food activists of color was the perfect way to share it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While farming full time on a small CSA farm, I began putting The Color of Food storytelling project together. I spent almost two years reaching out to farmers and food activists and building relationships with people I was meeting at conferences like the Black Farmers and Urban Gardeners Conference or Growing Food and Justice for All’s Annual Gathering. After \u003ca href=\"https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/the-color-of-food\" target=\"_blank\">fundraising on IndieGoGo\u003c/a>, with the support of family, friends, and other farmers and activists nationwide I raised over $10,000 for the book, which allowed me to get on the road and start collecting stories.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I interviewed over 75 farmers from the Southeast to the Northwest. When I transcribed these stories after five months on the road, I was instantly transported back to the farms where I might have been sitting in the farmer’s living room looking at old family photos, or riding in a truck listening to a farmer tell me why growing food was so important to them, or kneeling in the sunshine harvesting side by side as they told me the history of the very land we had our hands in.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Our conversations would run from family histories to historic discrimination in their communities; land love and loss; barriers to successes; and traditional foodways they are trying to preserve in their communities.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So many topics ran out like roots from these conversations, and this was the hardest part of putting the book together. Each story carried its own power and individuality, but many of them centered around land, power, resilience, community, and culture, which was how I decided to organize the book, with an additional section dedicated to women and young farmers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Color of Food takes you on a journey–a journey that started out on a personal note as I worked to understand my place in the food movement, but ended up being far bigger than that. For people of color, The Color of Food is about reclaiming our agrarian identity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s purpose is to remind us of all the less-visible communities that steward the land and the foodways and farming practices we carry. It’s also about digging into the untold stories of the land before we can dig into the soil itself.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Civil Eats will share excerpts of The Color of Food throughout the month of April. Read the \u003ca href=\"http://civileats.com/2015/04/14/the-color-of-food-building-autonomy-as-african-american-farmers//\" target=\"_blank\">first one here\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>About the Writer\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nNatasha is a writer, farmer and food justice activist. She is the author of \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://thecolorofood.com/order-book//\" target=\"_blank\">The Color of Food\u003c/a>\u003c/em>, a book that focuses on the intersection of race and food by amplifying the voices of farms and food work led by people of color. Natasha also blogs at \u003ca href=\"http://browngirlfarming.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Brown.Girl.Farming\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>At the height of Black farming in the U.S., a million farmers owned almost 17 million acres of land. Between 1920 and 1996, however, Black land ownership dropped by 70 percent and in 2012, there \u003ca href=\"http://www.agcensus.usda.gov/Publications/2012/Online_Resources/Highlights/Black_Farmers/Highlights_Black_Farmers.pdf\" target=\"_blank\">were only 44,000 Black farmers in the nation\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Thanks to evidence uncovered in a landmark lawsuit \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pigford_v._Glickman\" target=\"_blank\">Pigford v. Glickman\u003c/a>, we now know that the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) denied credit and benefits to Black farmers and gave preferential treatment to White farmers, essentially forcing Black farmers out of agriculture. By 1992, the number of Black farmers in America had declined by 98 percent.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But that’s not all. Across the board, people of color are under-represented in today’s agricultural landscape. According to the \u003ca href=\"http://www.ers.usda.gov/topics/farm-economy/beginning-disadvantaged-farmers/socially-disadvantaged-farmers-race,-hispanic-origin,-and-gender.aspx#.VEaDsRax39V\" target=\"_blank\">latest USDA agriculture census\u003c/a>, Latinos make up 3.2 percent of today’s farm owners, American Indians or Alaska natives make up 1.8 percent, Black or African people make up 1.6 percent, and Asians constitute less that 1 percent.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These are the kinds of facts that propelled me to write \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://thecolorofood.com/order-book/\" target=\"_blank\">The Color of Food: Stories of Race, Resilience, and Farming\u003c/a>\u003c/em>. When I joined the food and agricultural movement as a woman of color, I was immediately struck by the glaring racial disparities that live, not only in the food system regarding food access and health, but in the good food movement itself.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I could see that the face of the movement was not representing communities of color, the very same communities most heavily impacted by a broken food system. I felt like these voices were missing in the discussions about organic farming, rural homesteading, and even food justice and the urban farming projects that were sprouting up across the nation. It seemed the role of people of color in food and agriculture was misrepresented and defined solely in statistics about inequity. I knew our story was richer than that and I thought storytelling from farmers and food activists of color was the perfect way to share it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While farming full time on a small CSA farm, I began putting The Color of Food storytelling project together. I spent almost two years reaching out to farmers and food activists and building relationships with people I was meeting at conferences like the Black Farmers and Urban Gardeners Conference or Growing Food and Justice for All’s Annual Gathering. After \u003ca href=\"https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/the-color-of-food\" target=\"_blank\">fundraising on IndieGoGo\u003c/a>, with the support of family, friends, and other farmers and activists nationwide I raised over $10,000 for the book, which allowed me to get on the road and start collecting stories.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I interviewed over 75 farmers from the Southeast to the Northwest. When I transcribed these stories after five months on the road, I was instantly transported back to the farms where I might have been sitting in the farmer’s living room looking at old family photos, or riding in a truck listening to a farmer tell me why growing food was so important to them, or kneeling in the sunshine harvesting side by side as they told me the history of the very land we had our hands in.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Our conversations would run from family histories to historic discrimination in their communities; land love and loss; barriers to successes; and traditional foodways they are trying to preserve in their communities.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So many topics ran out like roots from these conversations, and this was the hardest part of putting the book together. Each story carried its own power and individuality, but many of them centered around land, power, resilience, community, and culture, which was how I decided to organize the book, with an additional section dedicated to women and young farmers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Color of Food takes you on a journey–a journey that started out on a personal note as I worked to understand my place in the food movement, but ended up being far bigger than that. For people of color, The Color of Food is about reclaiming our agrarian identity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s purpose is to remind us of all the less-visible communities that steward the land and the foodways and farming practices we carry. It’s also about digging into the untold stories of the land before we can dig into the soil itself.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Civil Eats will share excerpts of The Color of Food throughout the month of April. Read the \u003ca href=\"http://civileats.com/2015/04/14/the-color-of-food-building-autonomy-as-african-american-farmers//\" target=\"_blank\">first one here\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>About the Writer\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nNatasha is a writer, farmer and food justice activist. She is the author of \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://thecolorofood.com/order-book//\" target=\"_blank\">The Color of Food\u003c/a>\u003c/em>, a book that focuses on the intersection of race and food by amplifying the voices of farms and food work led by people of color. Natasha also blogs at \u003ca href=\"http://browngirlfarming.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Brown.Girl.Farming\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"info": "What kind of no sabo word is Hyphenación? For us, it’s about living within a hyphenation. Like being a third-gen Mexican-American from the Texas border now living that Bay Area Chicano life. Like Xorje! Each week we bring together a couple of hyphenated Latinos to talk all about personal life choices: family, careers, relationships, belonging … everything is on the table. ",
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"info": "Our flagship program, helmed by Kai Ryssdal, examines what the day in money delivered, through stories, conversations, newsworthy numbers and more. Updated Monday through Friday at about 3:30 p.m. PT.",
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"info": "The MindShift podcast explores the innovations in education that are shaping how kids learn. Hosts Ki Sung and Katrina Schwartz introduce listeners to educators, researchers, parents and students who are developing effective ways to improve how kids learn. We cover topics like how fed-up administrators are developing surprising tactics to deal with classroom disruptions; how listening to podcasts are helping kids develop reading skills; the consequences of overparenting; and why interdisciplinary learning can engage students on all ends of the traditional achievement spectrum. This podcast is part of the MindShift education site, a division of KQED News. KQED is an NPR/PBS member station based in San Francisco. You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>",
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"info": "For decades, the process for how police police themselves has been inconsistent – if not opaque. In some states, like California, these proceedings were completely hidden. After a new police transparency law unsealed scores of internal affairs files, our reporters set out to examine these cases and the shadow world of police discipline. On Our Watch brings listeners into the rooms where officers are questioned and witnesses are interrogated to find out who this system is really protecting. Is it the officers, or the public they've sworn to serve?",
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"info": "Political Breakdown is a new series that explores the political intersection of California and the nation. Each week hosts Scott Shafer and Marisa Lagos are joined with a new special guest to unpack politics -- with personality — and offer an insider’s glimpse at how politics happens.",
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"possible": {
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"title": "Possible",
"info": "Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.",
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"radiolab": {
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},
"rightnowish": {
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"title": "Rightnowish",
"tagline": "Art is where you find it",
"info": "Rightnowish digs into life in the Bay Area right now… ish. Journalist Pendarvis Harshaw takes us to galleries painted on the sides of liquor stores in West Oakland. We'll dance in warehouses in the Bayview, make smoothies with kids in South Berkeley, and listen to classical music in a 1984 Cutlass Supreme in Richmond. Every week, Pen talks to movers and shakers about how the Bay Area shapes what they create, and how they shape the place we call home.",
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"tagline": "Real stories with killer beats",
"info": "The Snap Judgment radio show and podcast mixes real stories with killer beats to produce cinematic, dramatic radio. Snap's musical brand of storytelling dares listeners to see the world through the eyes of another. This is storytelling... with a BEAT!! Snap first aired on public radio stations nationwide in July 2010. Today, Snap Judgment airs on over 450 public radio stations and is brought to the airwaves by KQED & PRX.",
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"soldout": {
"id": "soldout",
"title": "SOLD OUT: Rethinking Housing in America",
"tagline": "A new future for housing",
"info": "Sold Out: Rethinking Housing in America",
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