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"bio": "\u003ca href=\"http://www.sarahhenrywriter.com/\">Sarah Henry\u003c/a> hails from Sydney, Australia, where she grew up eating lamingtons, Vegemite, and prawns (not shrimp) on the barbie (barbecue). Sarah has called the Bay Area home for the past two decades and remembers how delighted she was when a modest farmers' market sprouted in downtown San Francisco years ago. As a freelance writer Sarah has covered local food people, places, politics, culture, and news for the \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/food/article/Latina-entrepreneurs-share-wealth-knowledge-2693764.php\">San Francisco Chronicle\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.mercurynews.com/food-wine/ci_21619882/good-eggs-pie-subscriptions-and-seafood-deliveries\">San Jose Mercury News\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://alumni.berkeley.edu/news/california-magazine/fall-2011-good-fight/justice%E2%80%94and-good-grub%E2%80%94-all\">California\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.modernluxury.com/san-francisco\">San Francisco\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.diablomag.com/Diablo-Magazine/November-2012/Artisan-Eats/\">Diablo\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.ediblecommunities.com/eastbay/fall-2012/school-lunch-20.htm\">Edible East Bay\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.ediblecommunities.com/marinandwinecountry/summer-2012-issue-14/getting-wild-at-a-west-marin-supper-club.htm\">Edible Marin & Wine Country\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.berkeleyside.com/\">Berkeleyside\u003c/a>. A contributor to the national food policy site \u003ca href=\"http://civileats.com/\">Civil Eats\u003c/a>, her stories have also appeared in \u003ca href=\"http://www.theatlantic.com/sarah-henry/\">The Atlantic\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.afar.com/highlights/kamal-mouzawaks-beirut-lebanon\">AFAR\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.gilttaste.com/stories/5207-a-family-tied-together-by-apron-strings\">Gilt Taste\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.lhj.com/community/your-stories/whats-for-dinner-dude/?page=1\">Ladies' Home Journal\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://grist.org/author/sarah-henry/\">Grist\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.shareable.net/users/sarah-henry\">Shareable\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.eatingwell.com/food_news_origins/green_sustainable/host_a_diy_food_swap\">Eating Well\u003c/a>. An epicurean tour guide for \u003ca href=\"http://edibleexcursions.net/\">Edible Excursions\u003c/a>, Sarah is the voice behind the blog \u003ca href=\"http://lettuceeatkale.com/\">Lettuce Eat Kale\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/lettuceeatkale\">tweets\u003c/a> under that moniker too.",
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"bio": "My passion is exploring the connections between food, travel and culture. I am a regular contributor to AFAR, Edible East Bay Magazine, Oakland Magazine, Berkeleyside's NOSH and other publications. I usually take a route that's slightly off the beaten path, like \u003ca href=\"http://edibleeastbay.com/online-magazine/fall-harvest-2017/fun-with-food-insults/\">collecting food-related insults\u003c/a> around the world or \u003ca href=\"https://www.afar.com/magazine/what-i-learned-hawking-sweet-potatoes-with-a-street-vendor-in-taiwan?email=amindess%40aol.com&utm_source=Sailthru&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=Doctors%20Without%20Borders&utm_term=Daily%20Wander%20Newsletter\">volunteering with a Sweet Potato Mama\u003c/a> (street food seller) in Tapei.\r\n\r\nCulture is the thread that ties together my several careers. I also work as a sign language interpreter, educator and author. My study of Deaf culture has taken me around the world, where I am always on a quest to find Deaf-owned restaurants. I love making connections between my different worlds, for example in this AFAR story where I share \u003ca href=\"https://www.afar.com/magazine/tips-from-a-sign-language-interpreter-for-overcoming-language-barriers\">tips for communicating across cultures\u003c/a> that I learned from the real experts, Deaf people. Or this \u003ca href=\"http://edibleeastbay.com/online-magazine/fall-harvest-2017/deaf-chefs-compete/\">profile of a Deaf chef and culinary arts instructor\u003c/a> at the California School for the Deaf.\r\n\r\nTo see my visual/edible take on the world, follow me on Instagram: \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/annamindess/\">annamindess. \u003c/a>\r\n\r\nFor more of my stories: visit Contently \u003ca href=\"http://annamindess.contently.com\">annamindess.contently.com\u003c/a>",
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"bio": "Car and technology writer for Discovery Channel and the producer and main recipe developer for TreeHugger's Green Wine Guide. I also contribute regularly to MAKE magazine. You can also find my work at The Atlantic, Digg.com and Fodor's Travel Guides.\r\nI studied Computer Engineering at Cal Poly in San Luis Obispo, CA. During my time there I was a DJ at the campus radio station KCPR and I also wrote for the campus paper, Mustang Daily.\r\nI am currently launching a social media startup called Trak.ly\r\n\r\nFollow me on Twitter \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/#!/jerryjamesstone\">@jerryjamesstone\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.facebook.com/jerryjamesstone\">Facebook\u003c/a>.",
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"bio": "Tilde Herrera is a San Francisco-based journalist who spends an inordinate amount of time plotting her next meal. Over the course of her career, she has reviewed restaurants, covered the commercial fishing industry in Florida and tracked the greening of mainstream Fortune 500 companies. Her work, covering food, business and sustainability, has appeared at the San Francisco Chronicle, Grist and GreenBiz, among others.",
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"disqusTitle": "Local Experts Dish on the Art of Pickled Peppers",
"title": "Local Experts Dish on the Art of Pickled Peppers",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/pickled-pepper-9.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50396\" title=\"Jarred SF Brines version of the classic taqueria pickles. Photo: Joseph Wrye\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/pickled-pepper-9.jpg\" alt=\"Jarred SF Brines version of the classic taqueria pickles. Photo: Joseph Wrye\" width=\"560\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Jarred SF Brine’s version of the classic taquería pickles, made with red and green jalapeños, red onion and carrots.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>All Photos: Joseph Wrye\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My boyfriend and his green thumb managed to coax nearly a dozen heirloom tomato plants into growing well over six feet tall in our often-chilly backyard in San Francisco.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We've eaten those tomatoes as fast as they ripened, but the 12 hot pepper plants growing alongside them required a bit more thought.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hot sauce has become my go-to plan when I come across a nice batch of hot peppers. This year I was also pulled in another direction, intrigued by a new crop of local food entrepreneurs who've launched businesses focused on pickling and preserving.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I turned to the nice people behind \u003ca href=\"http://www.emmyspicklesandjams.com/\">Emmy's Pickles and Jams\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://jarredsf.com/\">Jarred SF Brine\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.pauliespickling.com/Paulies_Plickling/menu.html\">Paulie's Pickling\u003c/a> for advice and they served up loads of tips on preserving peppers so we can continue eating them long after the season ends. Each of them makes a version of pickled jalapeños, some inspired by the classic blend found at taquerías throughout the Mission District.\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"Jalapeño-carrot was one of the first products we started with,\" says Emmy Moore, who co-founded Emmy's in 2010. \"We used to be based in the Mission and wanted to do something that spoke to that community.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>She ran through six trials before settling on her final recipe, which includes whole jalapeños, carrots and black pepper. Emiliana Puyana of Jarred uses a base recipe of sliced red and green jalapeños, carrots and red onion, but admits she never stops trying to perfect her formula.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50397\" title=\"Red and green jalapenos. Photo: Joseph Wrye\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/pickled-pepper-1.jpg\" alt=\"Red and green jalapenos. Photo: Joseph Wrye\" width=\"560\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Red and green jalapeños share the spotlight in Jarred SF Brine’s pickled pepper medley.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"They are super yummy and delicious, spicy and can go on pretty much anything -- a sandwich, taco, salad, you name it,\" says Puyana, who began selling pickled products in late 2011.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The process they each use is basically the same: They sanitize canning jars before stuffing them with cleaned vegetables. The vegetables are covered with a hot brine of vinegar, water, salt, aromatics and possibly sugar. The lids are sealed tightly and submerged in boiling water. Paul Ashby of Paulie's Pickling, however, skips the canning process and instead refrigerates the pickled peppers immediately after adding the brine, which he believes helps the vegetables to retain their texture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The same process may be used with pickling sweet peppers and other vegetables, though the recipe would differ. Moore and Ashby only pickle hot peppers, but Puyana also sells a grilled corn and sweet pepper combo made with sweeter brine kicked up with chili flakes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's important to taste peppers beforehand because the heat level may vary, especially later in the season when they seem to get hotter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"One may taste like a green pepper, one may set your mouth on fire,\" Ashby says. \"Find out what the flavor is like, and if there isn't enough heat, add dried peppers to get a consistent heat throughout the product. That's a good way to get it to the heat you want without effecting the flavor.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>The vegetables should be processed when they are as ripe as possible. In other words, don't wait until the peppers are about to turn before breaking out the canning jars.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Use the freshest stuff possible,\" Moore says. \"You want it to be crisp, fresh.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ashby recommends local farmers' markets as the top source for fresh vegetables. Keep an eye out right now for end-of-season peppers at farmers’ markets throughout the Bay Area.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"That's always your best bet,\" he says. \"Things start to break down, become mushy, and as they deteriorate you get off flavors. One off flavor and that could ruin the whole batch.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Puyana recommends using medium, fleshy peppers for pickling that won't disintegrate over time, such as jalapeño, serrano, bell, gypsy, banana, cherry and piquillo peppers. Padrón and shishito peppers may be too delicate, she said, while hotter peppers, such as habanero and cayenne, may be used to enhance recipes but are often too hot for most people to eat on their own.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When it comes to pickling, cleanliness and sanitation are key, Ashby says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You have to be super vigilant about how clean you are,\" Ashby says. \"There are a lot of rules you have to stick to.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Make sure the brine completely covers the vegetables but leave a little bit of \"head space\" so you can create a seal, Moore says. Or you can take Ashby's cue and simply store the vegetables and brine in a container in the fridge.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One last thing: don't throw out that pickling juice. It can be reused in several ways, such as adding some punch to salsa or a Bloody Mary.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Throw more peppers in it, wait a week or two and they will be pickled again,\" Moore says. \"The brine will become infused with pepper flavor. It's good for meat marinades and you don't have to worry about bacteria.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Recipe: Jarred SF Brine’s Pickled Jalapeños\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nYields: 2 16 oz. jars\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparing the Jars:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>Fill a large pot with water and bring it to a boil, making sure that the pot is large enough to hold the filled jars. Do not overfill the pot because the water level will rise when the jars are submerged.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Place the empty jars in the boiling water for one minute.\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/pickled-pepper-2.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50398\" title=\"Submerge the jars in boiling water. Photo: Joseph Wrye\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/pickled-pepper-2.jpg\" alt=\"Submerge the jars in boiling water. Photo: Joseph Wrye\" width=\"560\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Submerge the jars in boiling water\u003c/em>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Remove the jars with a pair of tongs.\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/pickled-peppers-3-recropped.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50503\" title=\"Remove jars from pot with tongs. Photo: Joseph Wrye\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/pickled-peppers-3-recropped.jpg\" alt=\"Remove jars from pot with tongs. Photo: Joseph Wrye\" width=\"400\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Carefully remove canning jars from pot.\u003c/em>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Place upside down on a counter lined with parchment paper.\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/pickled-pepper-4.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50399\" title=\"Set sanitized jars aside on parchment paper until ready to use. Photo: Joseph Wrye\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/pickled-pepper-4.jpg\" alt=\"Set sanitized jars aside on parchment paper until ready to use. Photo: Joseph Wrye\" width=\"560\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Set sanitized jars aside on parchment paper until ready to use.\u003c/em>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Repeat this step with the lids.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Vegetables\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Ingredients:\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>7 jalapeños, a mix of red and green, sliced into 1/4-inch coins (should yield about 2 cups)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 cup thinly sliced carrot (approximately 1 medium carrot; use a mandoline if possible)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 cup thinly sliced red onion rings (approximately 1/2 of a small red onion; use a mandoline if possible)\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Instructions:\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli style=\"list-style-type: none\">\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>Combine all ingredients in a bowl and mix, wearing gloves if mixing by hand. The yield should be roughly 3 cups of vegetables.\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/pickled-pepper-6.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50401\" title=\"Red and green jalapenos, red onion and carrot are ready to be jarred and pickled. Photo: Joseph Wrye\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/pickled-pepper-6.jpg\" alt=\"Red and green jalapenos, red onion and carrot are ready to be jarred and pickled. Photo: Joseph Wrye\" width=\"560\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Red and green jalapeños, red onion and carrot are ready to be jarred and pickled.\u003c/em>\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For the Brine\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Ingredients:\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n1 1/4 cup white wine vinegar\u003cbr>\n1 1/4 cup water\u003cbr>\n2 tablespoons salt\u003cbr>\n2 tablespoons sugar\u003cbr>\n1 teaspoon fennel seed\u003cbr>\n1 teaspoon coriander seed\u003cbr>\n1/2 teaspoon black peppercorns\u003cbr>\n2 sprigs of fresh Mexican oregano\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Instructions:\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli style=\"list-style-type: none\">\n\u003col>\n\u003cli style=\"list-style-type: none\">\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>Combine all ingredients except the oregano in a stainless steel pot and bring to a boil.\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50402\" title=\"Hot brine includes white wine vinegar, salt, sugar and aromatics. Photo: Joseph Wrye\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/pickled-pepper-7.jpg\" alt=\"Hot brine includes white wine vinegar, salt, sugar and aromatics. Photo: Joseph Wrye\" width=\"560\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>This hot brine includes white wine vinegar, salt, sugar and aromatics.\u003c/em>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Place one spring of oregano in the bottom of each jar. Fill the jars with the prepared vegetables (each jar holds about 1 1/2 cups).\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50405\" title=\"Pack vegetables snugly into jars. Photo: Joseph Wrye\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/pickled-pepper-8.jpg\" alt=\"Pack vegetables snugly into jars. Photo: Joseph Wrye\" width=\"400\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Pack vegetables snugly into jars, but leave enough room that will allow the brine to penetrate.\u003c/em>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Strain the brine into a measuring cup and pour over the vegetables. Make sure to leave a 1/4 of an inch of space and place the lid on securely. The jar is now ready to be processed.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Completely submerge the jar into the pot of boiling water for 3 minutes. Remove the jar from the water with tongs and let cool at room temperature.\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/pickled-pepper-10.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50403\" title=\"Boiling the jars helps to create a tight seal and kill any lurking bacteria. Photo: Joseph Wrye\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/pickled-pepper-10.jpg\" alt=\"Boiling the jars helps to create a tight seal and kill any lurking bacteria. Photo: Joseph Wrye\" width=\"400\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Boiling the jars helps to create a tight seal and kill any lurking bacteria.\u003c/em>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>The pickles will be ready to eat in 10 days.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Resources recommended by the pickling experts in this story:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli style=\"list-style-type: none\">\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Ball-Blue-Book-Guide-Preserving/dp/0972753702\">Ball Blue Book Guide to Preserving\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Tart-Sweet-Canning-Pickling-Recipes/dp/1605293822\">Tart and Sweet: 101 Canning and Pickling Recipes for the Modern Kitchen\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Preservation-Kitchen-Cooking-Preserves-Aigre-doux/dp/1607741008\">The Preservation Kitchen: The Craft of Making and Cooking with Pickles, Preserves, and Aigre-doux\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Canning-New-Generation-Flavors-Modern/dp/1584798645\">Canning for the New Generation: Bold, Fresh Flavors for the Modern Pantry\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Are you feeling sad that the local pepper season is drawing to a close? Don't be. The owners of Emmy's Pickles and Jams, Jarred SF Brine and Paulie's Pickling show how a little vinegar, salt and aromatics will let you enjoy those late-season jalapenos and serranos well into the winter.",
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"description": "Are you feeling sad that the local pepper season is drawing to a close? Don't be. The owners of Emmy's Pickles and Jams, Jarred SF Brine and Paulie's Pickling show how a little vinegar, salt and aromatics will let you enjoy those late-season jalapenos and serranos well into the winter.",
"title": "Local Experts Dish on the Art of Pickled Peppers | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/pickled-pepper-9.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50396\" title=\"Jarred SF Brines version of the classic taqueria pickles. Photo: Joseph Wrye\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/pickled-pepper-9.jpg\" alt=\"Jarred SF Brines version of the classic taqueria pickles. Photo: Joseph Wrye\" width=\"560\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Jarred SF Brine’s version of the classic taquería pickles, made with red and green jalapeños, red onion and carrots.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>All Photos: Joseph Wrye\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My boyfriend and his green thumb managed to coax nearly a dozen heirloom tomato plants into growing well over six feet tall in our often-chilly backyard in San Francisco.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We've eaten those tomatoes as fast as they ripened, but the 12 hot pepper plants growing alongside them required a bit more thought.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hot sauce has become my go-to plan when I come across a nice batch of hot peppers. This year I was also pulled in another direction, intrigued by a new crop of local food entrepreneurs who've launched businesses focused on pickling and preserving.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I turned to the nice people behind \u003ca href=\"http://www.emmyspicklesandjams.com/\">Emmy's Pickles and Jams\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://jarredsf.com/\">Jarred SF Brine\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.pauliespickling.com/Paulies_Plickling/menu.html\">Paulie's Pickling\u003c/a> for advice and they served up loads of tips on preserving peppers so we can continue eating them long after the season ends. Each of them makes a version of pickled jalapeños, some inspired by the classic blend found at taquerías throughout the Mission District.\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"Jalapeño-carrot was one of the first products we started with,\" says Emmy Moore, who co-founded Emmy's in 2010. \"We used to be based in the Mission and wanted to do something that spoke to that community.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>She ran through six trials before settling on her final recipe, which includes whole jalapeños, carrots and black pepper. Emiliana Puyana of Jarred uses a base recipe of sliced red and green jalapeños, carrots and red onion, but admits she never stops trying to perfect her formula.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50397\" title=\"Red and green jalapenos. Photo: Joseph Wrye\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/pickled-pepper-1.jpg\" alt=\"Red and green jalapenos. Photo: Joseph Wrye\" width=\"560\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Red and green jalapeños share the spotlight in Jarred SF Brine’s pickled pepper medley.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"They are super yummy and delicious, spicy and can go on pretty much anything -- a sandwich, taco, salad, you name it,\" says Puyana, who began selling pickled products in late 2011.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The process they each use is basically the same: They sanitize canning jars before stuffing them with cleaned vegetables. The vegetables are covered with a hot brine of vinegar, water, salt, aromatics and possibly sugar. The lids are sealed tightly and submerged in boiling water. Paul Ashby of Paulie's Pickling, however, skips the canning process and instead refrigerates the pickled peppers immediately after adding the brine, which he believes helps the vegetables to retain their texture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The same process may be used with pickling sweet peppers and other vegetables, though the recipe would differ. Moore and Ashby only pickle hot peppers, but Puyana also sells a grilled corn and sweet pepper combo made with sweeter brine kicked up with chili flakes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's important to taste peppers beforehand because the heat level may vary, especially later in the season when they seem to get hotter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"One may taste like a green pepper, one may set your mouth on fire,\" Ashby says. \"Find out what the flavor is like, and if there isn't enough heat, add dried peppers to get a consistent heat throughout the product. That's a good way to get it to the heat you want without effecting the flavor.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>The vegetables should be processed when they are as ripe as possible. In other words, don't wait until the peppers are about to turn before breaking out the canning jars.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Use the freshest stuff possible,\" Moore says. \"You want it to be crisp, fresh.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ashby recommends local farmers' markets as the top source for fresh vegetables. Keep an eye out right now for end-of-season peppers at farmers’ markets throughout the Bay Area.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"That's always your best bet,\" he says. \"Things start to break down, become mushy, and as they deteriorate you get off flavors. One off flavor and that could ruin the whole batch.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Puyana recommends using medium, fleshy peppers for pickling that won't disintegrate over time, such as jalapeño, serrano, bell, gypsy, banana, cherry and piquillo peppers. Padrón and shishito peppers may be too delicate, she said, while hotter peppers, such as habanero and cayenne, may be used to enhance recipes but are often too hot for most people to eat on their own.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When it comes to pickling, cleanliness and sanitation are key, Ashby says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You have to be super vigilant about how clean you are,\" Ashby says. \"There are a lot of rules you have to stick to.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Make sure the brine completely covers the vegetables but leave a little bit of \"head space\" so you can create a seal, Moore says. Or you can take Ashby's cue and simply store the vegetables and brine in a container in the fridge.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One last thing: don't throw out that pickling juice. It can be reused in several ways, such as adding some punch to salsa or a Bloody Mary.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Throw more peppers in it, wait a week or two and they will be pickled again,\" Moore says. \"The brine will become infused with pepper flavor. It's good for meat marinades and you don't have to worry about bacteria.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Recipe: Jarred SF Brine’s Pickled Jalapeños\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nYields: 2 16 oz. jars\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparing the Jars:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>Fill a large pot with water and bring it to a boil, making sure that the pot is large enough to hold the filled jars. Do not overfill the pot because the water level will rise when the jars are submerged.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Place the empty jars in the boiling water for one minute.\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/pickled-pepper-2.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50398\" title=\"Submerge the jars in boiling water. Photo: Joseph Wrye\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/pickled-pepper-2.jpg\" alt=\"Submerge the jars in boiling water. Photo: Joseph Wrye\" width=\"560\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Submerge the jars in boiling water\u003c/em>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Remove the jars with a pair of tongs.\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/pickled-peppers-3-recropped.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50503\" title=\"Remove jars from pot with tongs. Photo: Joseph Wrye\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/pickled-peppers-3-recropped.jpg\" alt=\"Remove jars from pot with tongs. Photo: Joseph Wrye\" width=\"400\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Carefully remove canning jars from pot.\u003c/em>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Place upside down on a counter lined with parchment paper.\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/pickled-pepper-4.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50399\" title=\"Set sanitized jars aside on parchment paper until ready to use. Photo: Joseph Wrye\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/pickled-pepper-4.jpg\" alt=\"Set sanitized jars aside on parchment paper until ready to use. Photo: Joseph Wrye\" width=\"560\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Set sanitized jars aside on parchment paper until ready to use.\u003c/em>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Repeat this step with the lids.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Vegetables\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Ingredients:\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>7 jalapeños, a mix of red and green, sliced into 1/4-inch coins (should yield about 2 cups)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 cup thinly sliced carrot (approximately 1 medium carrot; use a mandoline if possible)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 cup thinly sliced red onion rings (approximately 1/2 of a small red onion; use a mandoline if possible)\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Instructions:\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli style=\"list-style-type: none\">\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>Combine all ingredients in a bowl and mix, wearing gloves if mixing by hand. The yield should be roughly 3 cups of vegetables.\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/pickled-pepper-6.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50401\" title=\"Red and green jalapenos, red onion and carrot are ready to be jarred and pickled. Photo: Joseph Wrye\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/pickled-pepper-6.jpg\" alt=\"Red and green jalapenos, red onion and carrot are ready to be jarred and pickled. Photo: Joseph Wrye\" width=\"560\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Red and green jalapeños, red onion and carrot are ready to be jarred and pickled.\u003c/em>\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For the Brine\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Ingredients:\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n1 1/4 cup white wine vinegar\u003cbr>\n1 1/4 cup water\u003cbr>\n2 tablespoons salt\u003cbr>\n2 tablespoons sugar\u003cbr>\n1 teaspoon fennel seed\u003cbr>\n1 teaspoon coriander seed\u003cbr>\n1/2 teaspoon black peppercorns\u003cbr>\n2 sprigs of fresh Mexican oregano\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Instructions:\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli style=\"list-style-type: none\">\n\u003col>\n\u003cli style=\"list-style-type: none\">\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>Combine all ingredients except the oregano in a stainless steel pot and bring to a boil.\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50402\" title=\"Hot brine includes white wine vinegar, salt, sugar and aromatics. Photo: Joseph Wrye\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/pickled-pepper-7.jpg\" alt=\"Hot brine includes white wine vinegar, salt, sugar and aromatics. Photo: Joseph Wrye\" width=\"560\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>This hot brine includes white wine vinegar, salt, sugar and aromatics.\u003c/em>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Place one spring of oregano in the bottom of each jar. Fill the jars with the prepared vegetables (each jar holds about 1 1/2 cups).\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50405\" title=\"Pack vegetables snugly into jars. Photo: Joseph Wrye\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/pickled-pepper-8.jpg\" alt=\"Pack vegetables snugly into jars. Photo: Joseph Wrye\" width=\"400\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Pack vegetables snugly into jars, but leave enough room that will allow the brine to penetrate.\u003c/em>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Strain the brine into a measuring cup and pour over the vegetables. Make sure to leave a 1/4 of an inch of space and place the lid on securely. The jar is now ready to be processed.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Completely submerge the jar into the pot of boiling water for 3 minutes. Remove the jar from the water with tongs and let cool at room temperature.\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/pickled-pepper-10.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50403\" title=\"Boiling the jars helps to create a tight seal and kill any lurking bacteria. Photo: Joseph Wrye\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/pickled-pepper-10.jpg\" alt=\"Boiling the jars helps to create a tight seal and kill any lurking bacteria. Photo: Joseph Wrye\" width=\"400\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Boiling the jars helps to create a tight seal and kill any lurking bacteria.\u003c/em>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>The pickles will be ready to eat in 10 days.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Resources recommended by the pickling experts in this story:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli style=\"list-style-type: none\">\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Ball-Blue-Book-Guide-Preserving/dp/0972753702\">Ball Blue Book Guide to Preserving\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Tart-Sweet-Canning-Pickling-Recipes/dp/1605293822\">Tart and Sweet: 101 Canning and Pickling Recipes for the Modern Kitchen\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Preservation-Kitchen-Cooking-Preserves-Aigre-doux/dp/1607741008\">The Preservation Kitchen: The Craft of Making and Cooking with Pickles, Preserves, and Aigre-doux\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Canning-New-Generation-Flavors-Modern/dp/1584798645\">Canning for the New Generation: Bold, Fresh Flavors for the Modern Pantry\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": " The Whole Fish: How Adventurous Eating of Seafood Can Make You Healthier, Sexier, and Help Save the Ocean",
"title": " The Whole Fish: How Adventurous Eating of Seafood Can Make You Healthier, Sexier, and Help Save the Ocean",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>The autumn equinox is behind us, Halloween is fast approaching, followed quickly by the end of daylight savings time for the year. Longer nights, more darkness, and rain-gloomy days will be our lot for the next few months. Which means, of course, that it's time to eat more fish. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yes, according to \u003ca href=\"http://www.theatlantic.com/health/archive/2012/10/fish-oil-and-a-lesson-in-happiness-from-iceland/263868/#\">Fish Oil and a Lesson in Happiness\u003c/a>, an article recently published in \u003ca href=\"http://www.theatlantic.com\">The Atlantic\u003c/a>, Icelanders are considered to be some of the happiest people in the world, despite \"the 2008 financial crisis, volcanic eruptions, and predominant winter darkness.\" Due to its near-Arctic latitude, Iceland gets barely four hours of sunlight a day in December, yet its rate of Seasonal Affective Disorder (SAD) is a mere four percent, much lower than many countries further south. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Their secret? Bjork, elves, and swimming in steaming geothermal pools all winter, of course, but it could also be the country's seafood-rich diet, high in mood-enhancing, depression-fighting omega-3 fatty acids from wild-caught, cold-water fish like cod, salmon, sardines, and herring. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/maria-finn800.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/maria-finn560.jpg\" alt=\"Maria Finn author of The Whole Fish\" title=\"Maria Finn author of The Whole Fish\" width=\"560\" height=\"389\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50475\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Maria Finn author of The Whole Fish. Photo: Matthew Perry\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's an idea that Bay Area Bites contributor \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/mariafinn/\">Maria Finn\u003c/a> puts forth in her new \u003ca href=\"http://www.ted.com\">TED\u003c/a> e-book, \u003ca href=\"http://www.ted.com/pages/tedbooks_library#MariaFinn\">The Whole Fish: How Adventurous Eating of Seafood Can Make You Healthier, Sexier, and Help Save the Ocean\u003c/a>. It's a mouthful of a subtitle (and isn't it time to retire the whole \"How X Can Y, Z, and Save The World\" construct for titles by now?) but it goes far in explaining Finn's purpose: to encourage smarter, more responsible, nose-to-tail (or \"gills to adipose fin,\" as she calls it) seafood eating, with a West Coast emphasis on wild-caught salmon and low-on-the-food-chain small fish like sardines and herring.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.ted.com/pages/tedbooks_library#MariaFinn\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/the-whole-fish-cover400.jpg\" alt=\"The Whole Fish book cover\" title=\"The Whole Fish book cover\" width=\"400\" height=\"619\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50473\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Having worked on commercial salmon fishing boats in Alaska, Finn knows her salmons, from the big, meaty chinooks (great for grilling) to the mild, soft-fleshed pinks (perfect for burgers or croquettes), and she starts the book with a vivid description of the opening of the Alaskan salmon season, the boats jostling like racehorses waiting for the starting gun. Finn has also worked in resource management for the Alaska Department of Fish and Game, plunging into frigid water in a wetsuit to count salmon runs, then camping alongside the river through long tundra twilights in utterly remote locations. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Her first-hand experiences pepper the book, giving depth to her impassioned pleas for dam reduction; sound, non-polluting aquaculture and hatchery practices; and putting into practice an everyday environmental consciousness of the complexity of the ocean-to-river food web. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Several of the essays in the book are based on Bay Area Bites' pieces that Finn wrote over the past year, including a recent piece about \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/07/19/foraging-for-fish-in-the-san-francisco-bay/\">foraging for fish in San Francisco Bay\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/05/31/the-whole-fish-snout-to-tail-movement-meet-gills-to-adipose-fin/\">grilling whole salmon.\u003c/a> The book ends with recipes focusing on lesser-known salmon parts, from bones to collar; forage fish, like squid, mackerel, sardines, and herring; and sustainably-farmed fish, including catfish, white bass, trout, and local tilapia. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This Sunday, October 28, from 11am-4pm, you can meet Maria to talk fish and fishing while chowing down on some delicious roasted wild California chinook salmon with local chanterelle mushrooms and \u003ca href=\"http://www.ranchogordo.com/\">Rancho Gordo\u003c/a> cannellini bean salad, sourced by Martin Reed of \u003ca href=\"http://www.ilovebluesea.com/\">I Love Blue Sea\u003c/a> and cooked by John Fink of \u003ca href=\"http://www.thewholebeast.com/\">The Whole Beast\u003c/a> at this month's final \u003ca href=\"http://www.presidio.gov/Calendar/Pages/off-the-grid-picnic-at-the-presidio-october-28.aspx\">Picnic at the Presidio\u003c/a>, sponsored by \u003ca href=\"http://offthegridsf.com/\">Off the Grid\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/sardines-bouche.jpeg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/sardines-bouche.jpeg\" alt=\"Sardines with Grapefruit, Mint, and Marinated Vegetables\" title=\"Sardines with Grapefruit, Mint, and Marinated Vegetables\" width=\"427\" height=\"640\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50476\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Sardines with Grapefruit, Mint, and Marinated Vegetables. Photo: Quan Pham Photography courtesy of Bouche\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Sardines with Grapefruit, Mint, and Marinated Vegetables\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>This recipe comes from Chef Nicolas Borzee of \u003ca href=\"http://www.bouchesf.com/\">Bouche\u003c/a> in San Francisco. Borzee is from Alsace, France, and began working in restaurants at the age of 15. He worked his way through some of the best kitchens in France, including L’Atelier of Joel Robuchon. He moved to San Francisco in part for the local, sustainable ethos and amazing fresh ingredients, but also because of the passion for food. “There was so much love,” he said. “I’d never heard anyone talk about their muse that way.”\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Prep Time:\u003c/strong> 30 minutes, plus 14 hours' marinating time\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Cook Time:\u003c/strong> 30 minutes\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Total Time:\u003c/strong> 1 hour, plus 14 hours' marinating time\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Yield:\u003c/strong> Serves 2\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n8 fresh sardine fillets\u003cbr>\n5 pink grapefruits\u003cbr>\n1 fennel with greens\u003cbr>\n1 celery stalk with yellow leaves\u003cbr>\n2 baby carrots with greens\u003cbr>\n1 red onion, peeled\u003cbr>\n1 branch chocolate mint (from the farmers’ market)\u003cbr>\n4 tablespoons capers\u003cbr>\n4 ounces pain de mie (4 slices from a high quality sandwich-type white loaf)\u003cbr>\n2 ounces (1/4 cup) freshly squeezed lemon juice\u003cbr>\n1 pinch Espelette pepper\u003cbr>\n1 pinch garam masala\u003cbr>\n4 ounces (1/2 cup) olive oil\u003cbr>\n2 ounces (1/4 cup) rice vinegar\u003cbr>\nSalt to taste \u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>Wash the sardine fillets with cold water and dry them. Place the fillets on a tray and marinate for 2 hours with a pinch of salt per sardine and 2 ounces of lemon juice.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Peel and finely cut the vegetables. Bring a pot of water to a boil. Add several tablespoons of salt. Blanch vegetables for 1 minute, then drain. Reserve the greens of the carrots and fennel along with the yellow leaves of the celery stalk.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Take 1 grapefruit, remove the peel and membrane, and cut the flesh into small squares. Juice the remaining grapefruits. Reduce the juice in a pot by one third and season it with 2 ounces of rice vinegar, 4 ounces of olive oil, and salt to taste. Once the reduction has cooled, add all the vegetables and the sardines and marinate for at least 12 hours.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>In a deep fryer, fry the capers.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>To make the croutons, cut the pain de mie into small squares and sauté in a pan until they are dry. Season with a pinch of Espelette pepper and a pinch of garam masala.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>On a plate, place three sardine fillets in the middle and garnish with the vegetables, greens, fried capers, croutons, and mint.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Beverage pairing:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.cavesdesclans.com/wine/chateau-d-esclans.php\">Chateau d’Esclans\u003c/a>, Les Clans Rose 2008. This is an organic rosé from Provence, France. \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Celebrate the release of The Whole Fish: How Adventurous Eating of Seafood Can Make You Healthier, Sexier, and Help Save the Ocean by Bay Area Bites contributor Maria Finn at this Sunday's Picnic in the Presidio. ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>The autumn equinox is behind us, Halloween is fast approaching, followed quickly by the end of daylight savings time for the year. Longer nights, more darkness, and rain-gloomy days will be our lot for the next few months. Which means, of course, that it's time to eat more fish. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yes, according to \u003ca href=\"http://www.theatlantic.com/health/archive/2012/10/fish-oil-and-a-lesson-in-happiness-from-iceland/263868/#\">Fish Oil and a Lesson in Happiness\u003c/a>, an article recently published in \u003ca href=\"http://www.theatlantic.com\">The Atlantic\u003c/a>, Icelanders are considered to be some of the happiest people in the world, despite \"the 2008 financial crisis, volcanic eruptions, and predominant winter darkness.\" Due to its near-Arctic latitude, Iceland gets barely four hours of sunlight a day in December, yet its rate of Seasonal Affective Disorder (SAD) is a mere four percent, much lower than many countries further south. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Their secret? Bjork, elves, and swimming in steaming geothermal pools all winter, of course, but it could also be the country's seafood-rich diet, high in mood-enhancing, depression-fighting omega-3 fatty acids from wild-caught, cold-water fish like cod, salmon, sardines, and herring. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/maria-finn800.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/maria-finn560.jpg\" alt=\"Maria Finn author of The Whole Fish\" title=\"Maria Finn author of The Whole Fish\" width=\"560\" height=\"389\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50475\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Maria Finn author of The Whole Fish. Photo: Matthew Perry\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's an idea that Bay Area Bites contributor \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/mariafinn/\">Maria Finn\u003c/a> puts forth in her new \u003ca href=\"http://www.ted.com\">TED\u003c/a> e-book, \u003ca href=\"http://www.ted.com/pages/tedbooks_library#MariaFinn\">The Whole Fish: How Adventurous Eating of Seafood Can Make You Healthier, Sexier, and Help Save the Ocean\u003c/a>. It's a mouthful of a subtitle (and isn't it time to retire the whole \"How X Can Y, Z, and Save The World\" construct for titles by now?) but it goes far in explaining Finn's purpose: to encourage smarter, more responsible, nose-to-tail (or \"gills to adipose fin,\" as she calls it) seafood eating, with a West Coast emphasis on wild-caught salmon and low-on-the-food-chain small fish like sardines and herring.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.ted.com/pages/tedbooks_library#MariaFinn\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/the-whole-fish-cover400.jpg\" alt=\"The Whole Fish book cover\" title=\"The Whole Fish book cover\" width=\"400\" height=\"619\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50473\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Having worked on commercial salmon fishing boats in Alaska, Finn knows her salmons, from the big, meaty chinooks (great for grilling) to the mild, soft-fleshed pinks (perfect for burgers or croquettes), and she starts the book with a vivid description of the opening of the Alaskan salmon season, the boats jostling like racehorses waiting for the starting gun. Finn has also worked in resource management for the Alaska Department of Fish and Game, plunging into frigid water in a wetsuit to count salmon runs, then camping alongside the river through long tundra twilights in utterly remote locations. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Her first-hand experiences pepper the book, giving depth to her impassioned pleas for dam reduction; sound, non-polluting aquaculture and hatchery practices; and putting into practice an everyday environmental consciousness of the complexity of the ocean-to-river food web. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Several of the essays in the book are based on Bay Area Bites' pieces that Finn wrote over the past year, including a recent piece about \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/07/19/foraging-for-fish-in-the-san-francisco-bay/\">foraging for fish in San Francisco Bay\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/05/31/the-whole-fish-snout-to-tail-movement-meet-gills-to-adipose-fin/\">grilling whole salmon.\u003c/a> The book ends with recipes focusing on lesser-known salmon parts, from bones to collar; forage fish, like squid, mackerel, sardines, and herring; and sustainably-farmed fish, including catfish, white bass, trout, and local tilapia. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This Sunday, October 28, from 11am-4pm, you can meet Maria to talk fish and fishing while chowing down on some delicious roasted wild California chinook salmon with local chanterelle mushrooms and \u003ca href=\"http://www.ranchogordo.com/\">Rancho Gordo\u003c/a> cannellini bean salad, sourced by Martin Reed of \u003ca href=\"http://www.ilovebluesea.com/\">I Love Blue Sea\u003c/a> and cooked by John Fink of \u003ca href=\"http://www.thewholebeast.com/\">The Whole Beast\u003c/a> at this month's final \u003ca href=\"http://www.presidio.gov/Calendar/Pages/off-the-grid-picnic-at-the-presidio-october-28.aspx\">Picnic at the Presidio\u003c/a>, sponsored by \u003ca href=\"http://offthegridsf.com/\">Off the Grid\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/sardines-bouche.jpeg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/sardines-bouche.jpeg\" alt=\"Sardines with Grapefruit, Mint, and Marinated Vegetables\" title=\"Sardines with Grapefruit, Mint, and Marinated Vegetables\" width=\"427\" height=\"640\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50476\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Sardines with Grapefruit, Mint, and Marinated Vegetables. Photo: Quan Pham Photography courtesy of Bouche\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Sardines with Grapefruit, Mint, and Marinated Vegetables\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>This recipe comes from Chef Nicolas Borzee of \u003ca href=\"http://www.bouchesf.com/\">Bouche\u003c/a> in San Francisco. Borzee is from Alsace, France, and began working in restaurants at the age of 15. He worked his way through some of the best kitchens in France, including L’Atelier of Joel Robuchon. He moved to San Francisco in part for the local, sustainable ethos and amazing fresh ingredients, but also because of the passion for food. “There was so much love,” he said. “I’d never heard anyone talk about their muse that way.”\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Prep Time:\u003c/strong> 30 minutes, plus 14 hours' marinating time\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Cook Time:\u003c/strong> 30 minutes\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Total Time:\u003c/strong> 1 hour, plus 14 hours' marinating time\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Yield:\u003c/strong> Serves 2\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n8 fresh sardine fillets\u003cbr>\n5 pink grapefruits\u003cbr>\n1 fennel with greens\u003cbr>\n1 celery stalk with yellow leaves\u003cbr>\n2 baby carrots with greens\u003cbr>\n1 red onion, peeled\u003cbr>\n1 branch chocolate mint (from the farmers’ market)\u003cbr>\n4 tablespoons capers\u003cbr>\n4 ounces pain de mie (4 slices from a high quality sandwich-type white loaf)\u003cbr>\n2 ounces (1/4 cup) freshly squeezed lemon juice\u003cbr>\n1 pinch Espelette pepper\u003cbr>\n1 pinch garam masala\u003cbr>\n4 ounces (1/2 cup) olive oil\u003cbr>\n2 ounces (1/4 cup) rice vinegar\u003cbr>\nSalt to taste \u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>Wash the sardine fillets with cold water and dry them. Place the fillets on a tray and marinate for 2 hours with a pinch of salt per sardine and 2 ounces of lemon juice.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Peel and finely cut the vegetables. Bring a pot of water to a boil. Add several tablespoons of salt. Blanch vegetables for 1 minute, then drain. Reserve the greens of the carrots and fennel along with the yellow leaves of the celery stalk.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Take 1 grapefruit, remove the peel and membrane, and cut the flesh into small squares. Juice the remaining grapefruits. Reduce the juice in a pot by one third and season it with 2 ounces of rice vinegar, 4 ounces of olive oil, and salt to taste. Once the reduction has cooled, add all the vegetables and the sardines and marinate for at least 12 hours.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>In a deep fryer, fry the capers.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>To make the croutons, cut the pain de mie into small squares and sauté in a pan until they are dry. Season with a pinch of Espelette pepper and a pinch of garam masala.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>On a plate, place three sardine fillets in the middle and garnish with the vegetables, greens, fried capers, croutons, and mint.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Beverage pairing:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.cavesdesclans.com/wine/chateau-d-esclans.php\">Chateau d’Esclans\u003c/a>, Les Clans Rose 2008. This is an organic rosé from Provence, France. \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "Balsamic-Roasted Brussels Sprouts with Pine Nuts and Parmesan",
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"content": "\u003cp>I am always amazed when I find out someone is not a Brussels sprouts fan. I mean really, I just don't get it. These tiny little cabbages are not only visually fun but they can be so amazingly good. If done right, they have an earthy, bright and just slightly bitter flavor to them that reminds me of some of my favorite beers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So I try to be open-minded about it, but I am not. I will often invite said naysayer over for dinner...hopefully to change their mind. More often then not, I do! And this isn't some egotistical nod to my ability to cook. Honestly, I think that Brussels sprouts are just an easy vegetable to cook incorrectly. With very little effort you can make them overly bitter or ruin the texture completely.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/IMG_6171.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50063\" title=\"Balsamic-Roasted Brussels Sprouts Recipe\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/IMG_6171.jpg\" alt=\"Balsamic-Roasted Brussels Sprouts Recipe\" width=\"560\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This recipe is one of my favorites as it easy to make and is very tasty. Use it to convert your friends. You can even toss these skewers on the grill if you want to. They are perfect as a side dish but I myself have enjoyed them as the main course many times. I hope you will too!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>1 pound of Brussels sprouts\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/8 cup pine nuts, finely diced\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Balsamic vinegar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Olive oil\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Parmesan cheese\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/IMG_6102.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50068\" title=\"Brussels Sprouts\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/IMG_6102.jpg\" alt=\"Brussels Sprouts\" width=\"560\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1. Trim and peel away the outer leaves of each Brussels sprout and then half them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/IMG_6113.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50067\" title=\"Skewered Brussels Sprout\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/IMG_6113.jpg\" alt=\"Skewered Brussels Sprouts\" width=\"560\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Slide the Brussels sprout halves onto the skewers, about six to eight halves per skewer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Line a baking dish with parchment paper and places the skewers halved-side up.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/IMG_6123.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50066\" title=\"Balsamic and Olive Oil on Brussels Sprouts\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/IMG_6123.jpg\" alt=\"Balsamic and Olive Oil on Brussels Sprouts\" width=\"560\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Drizzle olive oil and balsamic vinegar over each skewer, trying to \"fill up\" the Brussels sprouts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5. Bake the skewers at 400 degrees for about 30 minutes until they are cooked and crispy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/IMG_6149.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50065\" title=\"Shaved Parmesan on Balsamic-Roasted Brussels Sprouts\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/IMG_6149.jpg\" alt=\"Shaved Parmesan on Balsamic-Roasted Brussels Sprouts\" width=\"560\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6. Plate the skewers on a serving tray and cover them with shaved Parmesan and the pine nuts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Enjoy!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/IMG_6153.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50064\" title=\"Balsamic-Roasted Brussels Sprouts Recipe\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/IMG_6153.jpg\" alt=\"Balsamic-Roasted Brussels Sprouts Recipe\" width=\"560\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>I am always amazed when I find out someone is not a Brussels sprouts fan. I mean really, I just don't get it. These tiny little cabbages are not only visually fun but they can be so amazingly good. If done right, they have an earthy, bright and just slightly bitter flavor to them that reminds me of some of my favorite beers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So I try to be open-minded about it, but I am not. I will often invite said naysayer over for dinner...hopefully to change their mind. More often then not, I do! And this isn't some egotistical nod to my ability to cook. Honestly, I think that Brussels sprouts are just an easy vegetable to cook incorrectly. With very little effort you can make them overly bitter or ruin the texture completely.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/IMG_6171.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50063\" title=\"Balsamic-Roasted Brussels Sprouts Recipe\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/IMG_6171.jpg\" alt=\"Balsamic-Roasted Brussels Sprouts Recipe\" width=\"560\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This recipe is one of my favorites as it easy to make and is very tasty. Use it to convert your friends. You can even toss these skewers on the grill if you want to. They are perfect as a side dish but I myself have enjoyed them as the main course many times. I hope you will too!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>1 pound of Brussels sprouts\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/8 cup pine nuts, finely diced\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Balsamic vinegar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Olive oil\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Parmesan cheese\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/IMG_6102.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50068\" title=\"Brussels Sprouts\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/IMG_6102.jpg\" alt=\"Brussels Sprouts\" width=\"560\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1. Trim and peel away the outer leaves of each Brussels sprout and then half them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/IMG_6113.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50067\" title=\"Skewered Brussels Sprout\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/IMG_6113.jpg\" alt=\"Skewered Brussels Sprouts\" width=\"560\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Slide the Brussels sprout halves onto the skewers, about six to eight halves per skewer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Line a baking dish with parchment paper and places the skewers halved-side up.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/IMG_6123.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50066\" title=\"Balsamic and Olive Oil on Brussels Sprouts\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/IMG_6123.jpg\" alt=\"Balsamic and Olive Oil on Brussels Sprouts\" width=\"560\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Drizzle olive oil and balsamic vinegar over each skewer, trying to \"fill up\" the Brussels sprouts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5. Bake the skewers at 400 degrees for about 30 minutes until they are cooked and crispy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/IMG_6149.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50065\" title=\"Shaved Parmesan on Balsamic-Roasted Brussels Sprouts\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/IMG_6149.jpg\" alt=\"Shaved Parmesan on Balsamic-Roasted Brussels Sprouts\" width=\"560\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6. Plate the skewers on a serving tray and cover them with shaved Parmesan and the pine nuts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Enjoy!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/IMG_6153.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50064\" title=\"Balsamic-Roasted Brussels Sprouts Recipe\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/IMG_6153.jpg\" alt=\"Balsamic-Roasted Brussels Sprouts Recipe\" width=\"560\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Q&A with Iron Chef Jose Garces",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/BABjose-garces_Headshot.jpg\" alt=\"Jose Garces. Photo credit: Jason Varney\" title=\"Jose Garces. Photo credit: Jason Varney\" width=\"400\" height=\"600\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50376\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Chef Jose Garces. Photo credit: Jason Varney\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Iron Chef fans, you may want to keep those peepers on high alert. This week, the Bay Area hosts \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Iron_Chef_America#The_Iron_Chefs\">Iron Chef\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.jamesbeard.org/blog/menu-jose-garces\">James Beard\u003c/a> Award-winning Chef \u003ca href=\"http://www.garcesgroup.com/\">Jose Garces\u003c/a>, who will be in San Francisco touting his second book, \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/The-Latin-Road-Home-Savoring/dp/1891105493\">Latin Road Home: Savoring the Foods of Ecuador, Spain, Cuba, Mexico, and Peru\u003c/a>\u003c/em>. The book is a \"travelogue and literary food memoir\" with chapters and recipes from each country. Many of his recipes have ingredients that can be found in, say, your favorite Mission bodega, and Garces gives tips on ingredients for newbies. Garces authored his first cookbook, \u003cem>Latin Evolution\u003c/em>, in 2008 and will be at \u003ca href=\"http://www.omnivorebooks.com/events.html\">Omnivore Books\u003c/a> on Thursday night at 6PM. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>His eponymous Garces Group has 15 restaurants in Philadelphia (Amada, Chifa, Tinto, and Distrito), Chicago, Palm Springs, Arizona, and Atlantic City. An American born to Ecuadorian parents and raised in Chicago, Garces started culinary training as a youngster with his paternal grandmother and later graduated from Chicago’s Kendall College School of Culinary Arts. Chef Garces lives in Philadelphia with his wife and two children and this year created the \u003ca href=\"http://garcesfamilyfoundation.org/\">Garces Family Foundation\u003c/a>, a non-profit to help underserved immigrants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: How did the second book project come about?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nGarces: I knew for a long time that I wanted to work on a second cookbook after finishing my first one, \u003cem>Latin Evolution\u003c/em>. When I started coming up with recipes that I thought I might want to include in a second book, they all carried with them specific stories about how I learned to make them or made them my own. Those stories took on as much life as the recipes themselves, and it quickly became obvious that my next book should bring them both together and share not only how to prepare certain dishes but also why I love to prepare them and what they mean to me.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Do you have any good stories from the book tour? \u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nGarces: Up to this point everything has been running very smoothly! It was great to be back at my alma mater, Kendall College in Chicago and I had a blast at the Arizona Taco Fest in Scottsdale where Distrito took home a few trophies.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What are you most passionate about food-wise?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nGarces: I’m devoted to finding and preparing the best, freshest ingredients. To me, it is the surest way to make a dish truly special. If you refuse to compromise on the quality of your ingredients, you will always be working with the best raw materials, and by extension, you will always create the best version of a dish that you can.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Who are your culinary mentors?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nGarces: I owe a debt of experience and faith to \u003ca href=\"http://www.chefdouglasrodriguez.com/\">Douglas Rodriguez\u003c/a>, both for his trust in me and for bringing me to my adopted hometown of Philadelphia. My fellow Iron Chef, Masaharu Morimoto, never fails to inspire me with his creativity and masterful techniques. The Spanish trailblazer in American has long been Jose Andrés, and I am proud to follow in his footsteps of bringing the best of Spain to America.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What are the best things about being a chef and restaurateur? And the worst?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nGarces: I am lucky to be able to say that I truly love my job. Perhaps the best part of being a chef and restaurateur is using food as a way of bringing people together, whether for just one meal, as guests, or as a team working in one of my restaurants, caring for those guests night after night. Food creates community in a way that nothing else can. There are stresses, as there are in any job, and they can be magnified because every meal in a restaurant should be special, but those stresses pale in comparison to the benefits.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: You are relatively young yet appear to be a success. What are the lessons you’ve learned on the way?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nGarces: The biggest lesson that I have learned, and one that I try to carry with me and to impart on those who ask me for advice, is to surround yourself with talented, passionate, capable people and learn all you can from them. If you are constantly around people you admire, you can’t help but study their approach, and often, you’ll discover a better or more effective way of doing something.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Do you have any favorite Bay Area food spots?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nGarces: Mission Chinese by Danny Bowien is a favorite and I’ll order anything on that menu! I also like Boulevard and Piperade. I’m going to Manresa during this trip.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Where do you think the U.S. is for appreciation of other cultures?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nGarces: It’s often said that the U.S. is a melting pot, therefore I believe it’s impossible for us to not appreciate all of the cultures that now make up American culture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Have you ever experienced racism in the kitchen?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nGarces: In many ways, I think of the kitchen as the great equalizer -- especially because often, our ‘audience,’ or our diners, can’t actually see us. If your food is good, it’s good, and that’s really all there is to it at the end of the day.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Mary Ladd interviews Iron Chef Jose Garces, who is visiting San Francisco to promote his latest book, “Latin Road Home: Savoring the Foods of Ecuador, Spain, Cuba, Mexico, and Peru.” He recently won a trophy at the Arizona Taco Fest and shares where he will eat while in town, and who is his culinary mentor.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/BABjose-garces_Headshot.jpg\" alt=\"Jose Garces. Photo credit: Jason Varney\" title=\"Jose Garces. Photo credit: Jason Varney\" width=\"400\" height=\"600\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50376\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Chef Jose Garces. Photo credit: Jason Varney\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Iron Chef fans, you may want to keep those peepers on high alert. This week, the Bay Area hosts \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Iron_Chef_America#The_Iron_Chefs\">Iron Chef\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.jamesbeard.org/blog/menu-jose-garces\">James Beard\u003c/a> Award-winning Chef \u003ca href=\"http://www.garcesgroup.com/\">Jose Garces\u003c/a>, who will be in San Francisco touting his second book, \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/The-Latin-Road-Home-Savoring/dp/1891105493\">Latin Road Home: Savoring the Foods of Ecuador, Spain, Cuba, Mexico, and Peru\u003c/a>\u003c/em>. The book is a \"travelogue and literary food memoir\" with chapters and recipes from each country. Many of his recipes have ingredients that can be found in, say, your favorite Mission bodega, and Garces gives tips on ingredients for newbies. Garces authored his first cookbook, \u003cem>Latin Evolution\u003c/em>, in 2008 and will be at \u003ca href=\"http://www.omnivorebooks.com/events.html\">Omnivore Books\u003c/a> on Thursday night at 6PM. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>His eponymous Garces Group has 15 restaurants in Philadelphia (Amada, Chifa, Tinto, and Distrito), Chicago, Palm Springs, Arizona, and Atlantic City. An American born to Ecuadorian parents and raised in Chicago, Garces started culinary training as a youngster with his paternal grandmother and later graduated from Chicago’s Kendall College School of Culinary Arts. Chef Garces lives in Philadelphia with his wife and two children and this year created the \u003ca href=\"http://garcesfamilyfoundation.org/\">Garces Family Foundation\u003c/a>, a non-profit to help underserved immigrants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: How did the second book project come about?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nGarces: I knew for a long time that I wanted to work on a second cookbook after finishing my first one, \u003cem>Latin Evolution\u003c/em>. When I started coming up with recipes that I thought I might want to include in a second book, they all carried with them specific stories about how I learned to make them or made them my own. Those stories took on as much life as the recipes themselves, and it quickly became obvious that my next book should bring them both together and share not only how to prepare certain dishes but also why I love to prepare them and what they mean to me.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Do you have any good stories from the book tour? \u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nGarces: Up to this point everything has been running very smoothly! It was great to be back at my alma mater, Kendall College in Chicago and I had a blast at the Arizona Taco Fest in Scottsdale where Distrito took home a few trophies.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What are you most passionate about food-wise?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nGarces: I’m devoted to finding and preparing the best, freshest ingredients. To me, it is the surest way to make a dish truly special. If you refuse to compromise on the quality of your ingredients, you will always be working with the best raw materials, and by extension, you will always create the best version of a dish that you can.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Who are your culinary mentors?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nGarces: I owe a debt of experience and faith to \u003ca href=\"http://www.chefdouglasrodriguez.com/\">Douglas Rodriguez\u003c/a>, both for his trust in me and for bringing me to my adopted hometown of Philadelphia. My fellow Iron Chef, Masaharu Morimoto, never fails to inspire me with his creativity and masterful techniques. The Spanish trailblazer in American has long been Jose Andrés, and I am proud to follow in his footsteps of bringing the best of Spain to America.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What are the best things about being a chef and restaurateur? And the worst?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nGarces: I am lucky to be able to say that I truly love my job. Perhaps the best part of being a chef and restaurateur is using food as a way of bringing people together, whether for just one meal, as guests, or as a team working in one of my restaurants, caring for those guests night after night. Food creates community in a way that nothing else can. There are stresses, as there are in any job, and they can be magnified because every meal in a restaurant should be special, but those stresses pale in comparison to the benefits.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: You are relatively young yet appear to be a success. What are the lessons you’ve learned on the way?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nGarces: The biggest lesson that I have learned, and one that I try to carry with me and to impart on those who ask me for advice, is to surround yourself with talented, passionate, capable people and learn all you can from them. If you are constantly around people you admire, you can’t help but study their approach, and often, you’ll discover a better or more effective way of doing something.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Do you have any favorite Bay Area food spots?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nGarces: Mission Chinese by Danny Bowien is a favorite and I’ll order anything on that menu! I also like Boulevard and Piperade. I’m going to Manresa during this trip.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Where do you think the U.S. is for appreciation of other cultures?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nGarces: It’s often said that the U.S. is a melting pot, therefore I believe it’s impossible for us to not appreciate all of the cultures that now make up American culture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Have you ever experienced racism in the kitchen?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nGarces: In many ways, I think of the kitchen as the great equalizer -- especially because often, our ‘audience,’ or our diners, can’t actually see us. If your food is good, it’s good, and that’s really all there is to it at the end of the day.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Maui Rides Another Culinary Wave",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/maui.seantimberlake.jpg\" alt=\"Maui beach scene. Photo: Sean Timberlake\" title=\"Maui beach scene. Photo: Sean Timberlake\" width=\"403\" height=\"403\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50307\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Many mainlanders head to Maui for the natural beauty not the food. Photo: Sean Timberlake\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Before the 1990s, the Hawaiian Islands had a reputation as a culinary backwater -- the land of SPAM and pineapple. And, let's face it, even today few mainlanders head to Maui for the food. The popular island vacation destination is a playground for water-sport thrill seekers, nature lovers, honeymooners, and stressed-out \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Haole\">haoles\u003c/a> seeking serious beach time and fruity cocktails with tiny umbrellas. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But that may be changing as Maui chefs look beyond local standards like poi and poke for edible inspiration. In recent years, a new culinary culture -- one with homegrown roots -- has emerged on the island and now residents and visitors alike are digging into dishes that wouldn't be out of place on menus in the Bay Area and beyond. The plates coming out of restaurant kitchens, though, reflect Hawaii's rich cultural traditions, exude a clear sense of place, and embrace Japanese, Chinese, Filipino, Portuguese, Polynesian, Korean, traditional Hawaiian, and, yes, European flavors and techniques.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's not the first time in recent memory the 50th state has stirred things up on the stove. Twenty years ago, a dozen celebrated chefs, including \u003ca href=\"http://merrimanshawaii.com/peter_merriman.htm\">Peter Merriman\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.roysrestaurant.com/about/roy_yamaguchi.asp\">Roy Yamaguchi\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.alanwongs.com/\">Alan Wong\u003c/a> decided to showcase the island state's evolving edible landscape in what was dubbed \u003ca href=\"http://www.hawaiiregionalcuisine.com/\">Hawaii Regional Cuisine\u003c/a>. Their mission: fresh local food prepared in creative ways. This new cuisine was a welcome shift for a state known mostly for its plate lunch. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/locomocofriedrice.alohamixedplate560.jpg\" alt=\"Loco Moco Fried Rice\" title=\"Loco Moco Fried Rice\" width=\"560\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50317\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>An updated spin on the plate lunch: Loco Moco Fried Rice from the restaurant Aloha Mixed Plate. Photo: Courtesy Aloha Mixed Plate\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This ubiquitous restaurant item -- still found in many places and getting a makeover too -- typically consists of two scoops of rice, a scoop of macaroni salad, and meat such as Hawaiian BBQ, beef teriyaki, kalua pork, chicken katsu or the Loco Moco, a ground beef patty topped with a fried egg and brown gravy. Not exactly local food, and rarely served with a piece of tropical fruit, taro, or fresh-caught fish in sight. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What's different about the latest crop of notable Maui chefs -- who include resort restaurateur \u003ca href=\"http://www.cohnrestaurants.com/chefs/executive-chef-ryan-luckey/\">Isaac Bancaco\u003c/a> (formerly of \u003ca href=\"http://www.wailearesortdining.com/humuhumu/\">Humuhumu\u003c/a> now at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.cohnrestaurants.com/menu-restaurants/the-pineapple/\">Pineapple Grill\u003c/a>), casual dining standout \u003ca href=\"http://www.starchefs.com/cook/chefs/bio/sheldon-simeon\">Sheldon Simeon\u003c/a> (\u003ca href=\"http://www.starnoodle.com/\">Star Noodle\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://leodas.com/\">Leoda's\u003c/a>), and farmer-forager-pop-up-chef \u003ca href=\"http://kupumaui.com/who-is-kupu-maui/\">James Simpliciano\u003c/a> -- is a renewed focus on collaborating closely with farmers and fishermen and sourcing sustainable ingredients that reflect the many microclimates of Maui. This new breed of cooks embrace a farm-to-table sensibility that many Northern Californians take for granted, and seek to modernize menus, offering food with flair and finesse but in a more casual atmosphere than their culinary trailblazers. And this shift in thinking is taking place at fancy resort restaurants, pop-up farm dinners, and eating establishments in between. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/ahi.avo_.star_.noodle400.jpg\" alt=\"Avo Ahi\" title=\"Avo Ahi\" width=\"400\" height=\"533\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50311\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Fresh island flavors with a twist shine at Star Noodle, such as the Avo Ahi with sambal (chili sauce) and usukuchi (soy sauce). Photo: Courtesy Star Noodle\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"The new generation of leading Maui chefs have a stronger connection to our local food traditions and food cultures and for the most part they are born and raised in the islands and have a natural affinity to the land, sea, mountains, and valleys,\" notes Christopher Speere of the \u003ca href=\"http://mauiculinary-campusdining.com/index.html\">Maui Culinary Academy\u003c/a> at the University of Hawaii Maui College. \"These chefs were raised on pork adobo, ahi poke, kim chee cucumbers, wild guava smoked pork, shoyu braised pork belly and grilled hamachi collars -- island flavors and the use of island ingredients are inherent in their everyday cooking practices. They stay true to their roots and cook from the heart.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/Chef-Simeon.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Seldon Simeon\" title=\"Chef Seldon Simeon\" width=\"401\" height=\"604\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50312\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>The star behind Star Noodle, Sheldon Simeon. Photo: Courtesy Star Noodle\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Case in point James Beard Award-nominee Sheldon Simeon whose Star Noodle -- an Asian-inspired, made-by-hand noodle house in an industrial park near the tourist mecca of Lahaina -- and Leoda's Kitchen and Pie Shop, a roadhouse diner in Olowalu featuring fresh salads, savory pastries, and pies -- have drawn appreciative nods from critics and consumers alike.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Simeon and fellow chefs took off for New York to get ideas and inspiration from noodle bars like David Chang's \u003ca href=\"http://momofuku.com/\">Momofuku\u003c/a>, for Simeon's noodle joint, and it shows in his small plates offering imaginative flavor pairings. Pohole Salad showcases Hana fiddle head ferns, Maui onions, ebi (shrimp), and kombu (seaweed); Lahaina Fried Soup (actually a noodle dish, not soup featuring doubly-thick chow fun, pork, and bean sprouts), and bacon-flecked Brussels Sprouts with Napa cabbage and kimchee puree also wins rave reviews. Desserts include a modern rendition of the popular Portuguese doughnuts known as Malasadas, served with chocolate and butterscotch caramel sauce and chopped peanuts. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/starnoodle.lahainafriednoodlesoup560.jpg\" alt=\"Lahaina Fried Soup\" title=\"Lahaina Fried Soup\" width=\"560\" height=\"418\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50318\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Noodle dishes, such as the Lahaina Fried Soup, feature at Star Noodle. Photo: Courtesy Star Noodle\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/starnoodle.malasadas.jpg\" alt=\"Malasadas\" title=\"Malasadas\" width=\"250\" height=\"353\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50310\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Save room for dessert at Star Noodle. Photo: Courtesy Star Noodle\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Similarly, a kitchen crew from Leoda's decamped to the Bay Area to research bread, pies, and pastries at places like \u003ca href=\"http://www.tartinebakery.com/\">Tartine\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://missionpie.com/\">Mission Pie\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://elportenosf.com/\">El Porteno Empanadas\u003c/a>. On the menu at the roadhouse: a savory corn hand-held pie filled with hibatchi sweet Kula corn, lime zest, cotija cheese, chives, and cilantro, along with hearty chicken or meat 'n potatoes pot pies. Also in the mix: sweet berry pies, flaky crusted yuzu-lemon tart, macadamia nut chocolate praline pie, and coconut cream pie. Sides worth scoping out include the Reuben lumpia (corned beef, sauerkraut, provolone cheese, thousand island dressing) and the fried salad (Brussels sprouts leaves, burnt orange vinaigrette, celery leaves, mixed hydroponic greens, radish, local mint.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On a recent food and farm trip to Maui, Simeon stopped by this reporter's table at Star Noodle to share his thoughts on the current state of dining on the island. Simeon, originally from Hilo on the Big Island, recently earned a People's Choice Award for \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodandwine.com/peoples-best-new-chef/northwest-pacific\">Best New Chef/Northwest and Pacific region\u003c/a> from \u003cem>Food & Wine \u003c/em>magazine. He also appears on season 10 of \u003ca href=\"http://www.bravotv.com/top-chef/season-10/about\">Bravo's Top Chef\u003c/a>, which begins November 7 (he was mum about the show, as one might expect.) But there's nothing celebrity chef-y about this cook: He arrived in a T-shirt, shorts, and slippers (island speak for flip flops) en route to his second baby luau of the night. (A first birthday luau is a grand celebration, he and another local informed me. Naturally, food plays a starring role in such events.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He's a humble guy who comes from a food-loving clan (his dad born and raised Hawaiian, his mom from a Filipino family). Simeon is happy for his restaurants' success and also quietly striving to do more to feature Hawaiian farmers who grow local gems -- he thinks it's time for restaurant chefs like him to step aside and place the spotlight on what growers are doing to improve food in Maui. \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"It's an honor to showcase local ingredients and incorporate local culture in the dishes we serve,\" he says. \"As a chef I like to introduce customers -- locals and visitors -- to flavors they can't find anywhere else.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/leodas.friedsalad560.jpg\" alt=\"fried salad\" title=\"fried salad\" width=\"550\" height=\"364\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50316\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>The fried salad at Leoda's features Brussels sprouts coated in a kicky dressing. Photo: Courtesy Leoda's\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>His wildly popular Brussels sprouts dishes at both hot spots illustrate some of the challenges inherent with island culinary life. Simeon concedes Brussels sprouts showed up on his menus as part of a national trend, and now they're too big a hit to come off. But these cruciferous vegetables are flown in from the mainland. So he's working with farmers in cooler areas on the island, who can grow small Brussels sprouts for a short season, and hopes to switch to this homegrown crop for however long they last and educate diners about seasonal eating along the way.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Food writer Bonnie Friedman says much has changed on the plate in the 30 years she's called Maui home -- despite the island's limited resources. \"When I first arrived here in terms of 'fine dining,' most places were serving frozen mahimahi, frozen vegetables, a baked potato and calling it a day,\" says Friedman, who leads \u003ca href=\"http://tourdafood.com/\">local food tours\u003c/a> designed to whisk visitors away from the resort areas and into the small towns where local people live, work, and eat. She passes on \"name\" places for holes-in-the-walls in central Maui, mom-and-pop shops, cowboy country fare, and gas-station grub to highlight what she calls the island's \"amazing melting pot of ethnic cuisines.\" There's always a shave ice stop too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Not everyone is enamored with the current state of island eats -- notably newbies from the mainland. At \u003ca href=\"http://www.oofarm.com/\">O'o Farm\u003c/a> in Kula Country, a growing region on the island's west side, the resident chef on a \u003ca href=\"http://www.oofarm.com/tour-luncheon/\">farm and lunch tour\u003c/a> there -- who relocated from food-centric Seattle for the gig -- maintains that island food is 5 to 15 years behind what's on plates Stateside and says he hasn't been wowed by anything he's eaten while out and about in the eight months or so he's lived on Maui.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/kupu.maui_.popup_.waiheecoastaldunes.jpg\" alt=\"Pop-up dining, Hawaiian style, at Kupu Maui.\" title=\"Pop-up dining, Hawaiian style, at Kupu Maui.\" width=\"320\" height=\"213\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50315\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Pop-up dining, Hawaiian style, at Kupu Maui. Photo: Monica George\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>No matter, for the most part, locals are content to do their own thing without emulating mainland trends -- or at least giving them a refreshing island feel. Take a recent pop-up dinner, old hat in the Bay Area for sure. But this event, sponsored by the \u003ca href=\"http://slowfoodmaui.org/\">local chapter of Slow Food\u003c/a>, had a distinctly island vibe: James Simpliciano, who grows greens and has worked in the kitchens of large resorts, dished up dinner on protected land while local musician Joel Katz played Hawaiian steel guitar. Proceeds from these events benefit local groups -- the spirit of giving back to the community is alive and well in the land of aloha -- in this case the \u003ca href=\"http://www.hilt.org/about-us/\">Hawaiian Islands Land Trust\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/james.simpliciano.peter_.liu_.maui560.jpg\" alt=\"Farmer-chef James Simpliciano\" title=\"Farmer-chef James Simpliciano\" width=\"560\" height=\"371\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50313\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Farmer-chef James Simpliciano cooks for the pop-up crowd. Photo: Peter Liu, Kaiscapes Media/\u003ca href=\"http://www.flickr.com/photos/kaiscapesllc/7236639608/\">Flickr\u003c/a>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This pop-up event, dubbed \u003ca href=\"http://kupumaui.com/\">Kupu Maui\u003c/a>, (kupu means sprout in Hawaiian) was held at \u003ca href=\"http://www.hilt.org/protected-lands/maui/waihee-refuge/\">Waihe'e Coastal Dunes and Wetlands Refuge\u003c/a>, a quiet, pristine, shoreline plot home to eight different endangered species. On the menu that night pupu (bite-sized appetizers) such as chai-smoked pork with lilikoi (passion fruit) jelly and micro greens on taro chip (a vegetarian version showcased local goat cheese). The main meal served buffet-style included a lamb tagine with aromatic Maui onion mire poix, Honakahau taro, Kapalua sweet potato, Ka'anapali carrots, beets, garlic and Hawaiian sea salt. Much of the food was donated by local farmers and prepared by a crew of local cooks. Kupu Maui pops up once a month at a different location, frequently a farm. For instance, last Saturday the event was held at \u003ca href=\"http://kupaafarms.blogspot.com/\">Kupa'a Farm\u003c/a>, an organic grower whose produce sells out within hours at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.upcountryfarmersmarket.com/\">UpCountry Farmers' Market\u003c/a> on Saturdays.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's true much of what is consumed on Maui is still imported from the mainland, perhaps not surprising for an isolated island a five-hour flight from San Francisco. But increasingly, resident chefs feature homegrown food for the same reasons the rest of us seek local eats -- health, environment, economics, sustainability, taste, terroir -- and a dash of well-deserved local pride.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Full disclosure: The writer was a guest on Maui courtesy of Maui's Visitors & Convention Bureau.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Maui's culinary moment: The island's food scene is flourishing, thanks to a new breed of farmers and chefs. Sarah Henry reports from the field.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/maui.seantimberlake.jpg\" alt=\"Maui beach scene. Photo: Sean Timberlake\" title=\"Maui beach scene. Photo: Sean Timberlake\" width=\"403\" height=\"403\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50307\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Many mainlanders head to Maui for the natural beauty not the food. Photo: Sean Timberlake\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Before the 1990s, the Hawaiian Islands had a reputation as a culinary backwater -- the land of SPAM and pineapple. And, let's face it, even today few mainlanders head to Maui for the food. The popular island vacation destination is a playground for water-sport thrill seekers, nature lovers, honeymooners, and stressed-out \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Haole\">haoles\u003c/a> seeking serious beach time and fruity cocktails with tiny umbrellas. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But that may be changing as Maui chefs look beyond local standards like poi and poke for edible inspiration. In recent years, a new culinary culture -- one with homegrown roots -- has emerged on the island and now residents and visitors alike are digging into dishes that wouldn't be out of place on menus in the Bay Area and beyond. The plates coming out of restaurant kitchens, though, reflect Hawaii's rich cultural traditions, exude a clear sense of place, and embrace Japanese, Chinese, Filipino, Portuguese, Polynesian, Korean, traditional Hawaiian, and, yes, European flavors and techniques.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's not the first time in recent memory the 50th state has stirred things up on the stove. Twenty years ago, a dozen celebrated chefs, including \u003ca href=\"http://merrimanshawaii.com/peter_merriman.htm\">Peter Merriman\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.roysrestaurant.com/about/roy_yamaguchi.asp\">Roy Yamaguchi\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.alanwongs.com/\">Alan Wong\u003c/a> decided to showcase the island state's evolving edible landscape in what was dubbed \u003ca href=\"http://www.hawaiiregionalcuisine.com/\">Hawaii Regional Cuisine\u003c/a>. Their mission: fresh local food prepared in creative ways. This new cuisine was a welcome shift for a state known mostly for its plate lunch. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/locomocofriedrice.alohamixedplate560.jpg\" alt=\"Loco Moco Fried Rice\" title=\"Loco Moco Fried Rice\" width=\"560\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50317\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>An updated spin on the plate lunch: Loco Moco Fried Rice from the restaurant Aloha Mixed Plate. Photo: Courtesy Aloha Mixed Plate\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This ubiquitous restaurant item -- still found in many places and getting a makeover too -- typically consists of two scoops of rice, a scoop of macaroni salad, and meat such as Hawaiian BBQ, beef teriyaki, kalua pork, chicken katsu or the Loco Moco, a ground beef patty topped with a fried egg and brown gravy. Not exactly local food, and rarely served with a piece of tropical fruit, taro, or fresh-caught fish in sight. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What's different about the latest crop of notable Maui chefs -- who include resort restaurateur \u003ca href=\"http://www.cohnrestaurants.com/chefs/executive-chef-ryan-luckey/\">Isaac Bancaco\u003c/a> (formerly of \u003ca href=\"http://www.wailearesortdining.com/humuhumu/\">Humuhumu\u003c/a> now at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.cohnrestaurants.com/menu-restaurants/the-pineapple/\">Pineapple Grill\u003c/a>), casual dining standout \u003ca href=\"http://www.starchefs.com/cook/chefs/bio/sheldon-simeon\">Sheldon Simeon\u003c/a> (\u003ca href=\"http://www.starnoodle.com/\">Star Noodle\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://leodas.com/\">Leoda's\u003c/a>), and farmer-forager-pop-up-chef \u003ca href=\"http://kupumaui.com/who-is-kupu-maui/\">James Simpliciano\u003c/a> -- is a renewed focus on collaborating closely with farmers and fishermen and sourcing sustainable ingredients that reflect the many microclimates of Maui. This new breed of cooks embrace a farm-to-table sensibility that many Northern Californians take for granted, and seek to modernize menus, offering food with flair and finesse but in a more casual atmosphere than their culinary trailblazers. And this shift in thinking is taking place at fancy resort restaurants, pop-up farm dinners, and eating establishments in between. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/ahi.avo_.star_.noodle400.jpg\" alt=\"Avo Ahi\" title=\"Avo Ahi\" width=\"400\" height=\"533\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50311\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Fresh island flavors with a twist shine at Star Noodle, such as the Avo Ahi with sambal (chili sauce) and usukuchi (soy sauce). Photo: Courtesy Star Noodle\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"The new generation of leading Maui chefs have a stronger connection to our local food traditions and food cultures and for the most part they are born and raised in the islands and have a natural affinity to the land, sea, mountains, and valleys,\" notes Christopher Speere of the \u003ca href=\"http://mauiculinary-campusdining.com/index.html\">Maui Culinary Academy\u003c/a> at the University of Hawaii Maui College. \"These chefs were raised on pork adobo, ahi poke, kim chee cucumbers, wild guava smoked pork, shoyu braised pork belly and grilled hamachi collars -- island flavors and the use of island ingredients are inherent in their everyday cooking practices. They stay true to their roots and cook from the heart.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/Chef-Simeon.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Seldon Simeon\" title=\"Chef Seldon Simeon\" width=\"401\" height=\"604\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50312\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>The star behind Star Noodle, Sheldon Simeon. Photo: Courtesy Star Noodle\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Case in point James Beard Award-nominee Sheldon Simeon whose Star Noodle -- an Asian-inspired, made-by-hand noodle house in an industrial park near the tourist mecca of Lahaina -- and Leoda's Kitchen and Pie Shop, a roadhouse diner in Olowalu featuring fresh salads, savory pastries, and pies -- have drawn appreciative nods from critics and consumers alike.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Simeon and fellow chefs took off for New York to get ideas and inspiration from noodle bars like David Chang's \u003ca href=\"http://momofuku.com/\">Momofuku\u003c/a>, for Simeon's noodle joint, and it shows in his small plates offering imaginative flavor pairings. Pohole Salad showcases Hana fiddle head ferns, Maui onions, ebi (shrimp), and kombu (seaweed); Lahaina Fried Soup (actually a noodle dish, not soup featuring doubly-thick chow fun, pork, and bean sprouts), and bacon-flecked Brussels Sprouts with Napa cabbage and kimchee puree also wins rave reviews. Desserts include a modern rendition of the popular Portuguese doughnuts known as Malasadas, served with chocolate and butterscotch caramel sauce and chopped peanuts. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/starnoodle.lahainafriednoodlesoup560.jpg\" alt=\"Lahaina Fried Soup\" title=\"Lahaina Fried Soup\" width=\"560\" height=\"418\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50318\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Noodle dishes, such as the Lahaina Fried Soup, feature at Star Noodle. Photo: Courtesy Star Noodle\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/starnoodle.malasadas.jpg\" alt=\"Malasadas\" title=\"Malasadas\" width=\"250\" height=\"353\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50310\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Save room for dessert at Star Noodle. Photo: Courtesy Star Noodle\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Similarly, a kitchen crew from Leoda's decamped to the Bay Area to research bread, pies, and pastries at places like \u003ca href=\"http://www.tartinebakery.com/\">Tartine\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://missionpie.com/\">Mission Pie\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://elportenosf.com/\">El Porteno Empanadas\u003c/a>. On the menu at the roadhouse: a savory corn hand-held pie filled with hibatchi sweet Kula corn, lime zest, cotija cheese, chives, and cilantro, along with hearty chicken or meat 'n potatoes pot pies. Also in the mix: sweet berry pies, flaky crusted yuzu-lemon tart, macadamia nut chocolate praline pie, and coconut cream pie. Sides worth scoping out include the Reuben lumpia (corned beef, sauerkraut, provolone cheese, thousand island dressing) and the fried salad (Brussels sprouts leaves, burnt orange vinaigrette, celery leaves, mixed hydroponic greens, radish, local mint.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On a recent food and farm trip to Maui, Simeon stopped by this reporter's table at Star Noodle to share his thoughts on the current state of dining on the island. Simeon, originally from Hilo on the Big Island, recently earned a People's Choice Award for \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodandwine.com/peoples-best-new-chef/northwest-pacific\">Best New Chef/Northwest and Pacific region\u003c/a> from \u003cem>Food & Wine \u003c/em>magazine. He also appears on season 10 of \u003ca href=\"http://www.bravotv.com/top-chef/season-10/about\">Bravo's Top Chef\u003c/a>, which begins November 7 (he was mum about the show, as one might expect.) But there's nothing celebrity chef-y about this cook: He arrived in a T-shirt, shorts, and slippers (island speak for flip flops) en route to his second baby luau of the night. (A first birthday luau is a grand celebration, he and another local informed me. Naturally, food plays a starring role in such events.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He's a humble guy who comes from a food-loving clan (his dad born and raised Hawaiian, his mom from a Filipino family). Simeon is happy for his restaurants' success and also quietly striving to do more to feature Hawaiian farmers who grow local gems -- he thinks it's time for restaurant chefs like him to step aside and place the spotlight on what growers are doing to improve food in Maui. \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"It's an honor to showcase local ingredients and incorporate local culture in the dishes we serve,\" he says. \"As a chef I like to introduce customers -- locals and visitors -- to flavors they can't find anywhere else.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/leodas.friedsalad560.jpg\" alt=\"fried salad\" title=\"fried salad\" width=\"550\" height=\"364\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50316\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>The fried salad at Leoda's features Brussels sprouts coated in a kicky dressing. Photo: Courtesy Leoda's\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>His wildly popular Brussels sprouts dishes at both hot spots illustrate some of the challenges inherent with island culinary life. Simeon concedes Brussels sprouts showed up on his menus as part of a national trend, and now they're too big a hit to come off. But these cruciferous vegetables are flown in from the mainland. So he's working with farmers in cooler areas on the island, who can grow small Brussels sprouts for a short season, and hopes to switch to this homegrown crop for however long they last and educate diners about seasonal eating along the way.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Food writer Bonnie Friedman says much has changed on the plate in the 30 years she's called Maui home -- despite the island's limited resources. \"When I first arrived here in terms of 'fine dining,' most places were serving frozen mahimahi, frozen vegetables, a baked potato and calling it a day,\" says Friedman, who leads \u003ca href=\"http://tourdafood.com/\">local food tours\u003c/a> designed to whisk visitors away from the resort areas and into the small towns where local people live, work, and eat. She passes on \"name\" places for holes-in-the-walls in central Maui, mom-and-pop shops, cowboy country fare, and gas-station grub to highlight what she calls the island's \"amazing melting pot of ethnic cuisines.\" There's always a shave ice stop too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Not everyone is enamored with the current state of island eats -- notably newbies from the mainland. At \u003ca href=\"http://www.oofarm.com/\">O'o Farm\u003c/a> in Kula Country, a growing region on the island's west side, the resident chef on a \u003ca href=\"http://www.oofarm.com/tour-luncheon/\">farm and lunch tour\u003c/a> there -- who relocated from food-centric Seattle for the gig -- maintains that island food is 5 to 15 years behind what's on plates Stateside and says he hasn't been wowed by anything he's eaten while out and about in the eight months or so he's lived on Maui.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/kupu.maui_.popup_.waiheecoastaldunes.jpg\" alt=\"Pop-up dining, Hawaiian style, at Kupu Maui.\" title=\"Pop-up dining, Hawaiian style, at Kupu Maui.\" width=\"320\" height=\"213\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50315\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Pop-up dining, Hawaiian style, at Kupu Maui. Photo: Monica George\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>No matter, for the most part, locals are content to do their own thing without emulating mainland trends -- or at least giving them a refreshing island feel. Take a recent pop-up dinner, old hat in the Bay Area for sure. But this event, sponsored by the \u003ca href=\"http://slowfoodmaui.org/\">local chapter of Slow Food\u003c/a>, had a distinctly island vibe: James Simpliciano, who grows greens and has worked in the kitchens of large resorts, dished up dinner on protected land while local musician Joel Katz played Hawaiian steel guitar. Proceeds from these events benefit local groups -- the spirit of giving back to the community is alive and well in the land of aloha -- in this case the \u003ca href=\"http://www.hilt.org/about-us/\">Hawaiian Islands Land Trust\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/james.simpliciano.peter_.liu_.maui560.jpg\" alt=\"Farmer-chef James Simpliciano\" title=\"Farmer-chef James Simpliciano\" width=\"560\" height=\"371\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50313\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Farmer-chef James Simpliciano cooks for the pop-up crowd. Photo: Peter Liu, Kaiscapes Media/\u003ca href=\"http://www.flickr.com/photos/kaiscapesllc/7236639608/\">Flickr\u003c/a>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This pop-up event, dubbed \u003ca href=\"http://kupumaui.com/\">Kupu Maui\u003c/a>, (kupu means sprout in Hawaiian) was held at \u003ca href=\"http://www.hilt.org/protected-lands/maui/waihee-refuge/\">Waihe'e Coastal Dunes and Wetlands Refuge\u003c/a>, a quiet, pristine, shoreline plot home to eight different endangered species. On the menu that night pupu (bite-sized appetizers) such as chai-smoked pork with lilikoi (passion fruit) jelly and micro greens on taro chip (a vegetarian version showcased local goat cheese). The main meal served buffet-style included a lamb tagine with aromatic Maui onion mire poix, Honakahau taro, Kapalua sweet potato, Ka'anapali carrots, beets, garlic and Hawaiian sea salt. Much of the food was donated by local farmers and prepared by a crew of local cooks. Kupu Maui pops up once a month at a different location, frequently a farm. For instance, last Saturday the event was held at \u003ca href=\"http://kupaafarms.blogspot.com/\">Kupa'a Farm\u003c/a>, an organic grower whose produce sells out within hours at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.upcountryfarmersmarket.com/\">UpCountry Farmers' Market\u003c/a> on Saturdays.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's true much of what is consumed on Maui is still imported from the mainland, perhaps not surprising for an isolated island a five-hour flight from San Francisco. But increasingly, resident chefs feature homegrown food for the same reasons the rest of us seek local eats -- health, environment, economics, sustainability, taste, terroir -- and a dash of well-deserved local pride.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Full disclosure: The writer was a guest on Maui courtesy of Maui's Visitors & Convention Bureau.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Q&A with Mourad Lahlou, Chef and Culinary Diplomat",
"title": "Q&A with Mourad Lahlou, Chef and Culinary Diplomat",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/560BAB_Mourad-Lahlou-Deborah-Jones-2.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/560BAB_Mourad-Lahlou-Deborah-Jones-2.jpg\" alt=\"Mourad Lahlou. Photo: Deborah Jones\" title=\"Mourad Lahlou. Photo: Deborah Jones\" width=\"560\" height=\"373\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50274\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Mourad Lahlou. Photo: Deborah Jones\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Self-taught chef and restaurateur Mourad Lahlou is the one name repeatedly whispered at industry events as someone who is innovative and daring. Lahlou’s first cookbook “\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Mourad-New-Moroccan-Lahlou/dp/1579654290\">Mourad: New Moroccan\u003c/a>” came out last year and the recipes reveal his personal interpretation of his native Moroccan cuisine. Eating at his Michelin starred restaurant \u003ca href=\"http://www.aziza-sf.com/\">Aziza\u003c/a> remains a popular “must-do” for many, and Lahlou was recently appointed a culinary ambassador by Secretary of State \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodpolitics.com/wp-content/uploads/Diplomatic-Culinary-Partnership-Initiative-One-Pager.pdf\">Hillary Clinton\u003c/a>. Lahlou is also gearing up to open a new restaurant in downtown San Francisco, which Lahlou has said will be different than Aziza. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bay Area Bites caught up with Lahlou via a telephone and an email interview recently. His comments have been edited for length and clarity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: How did you become a culinary ambassador? How will it change your schedule?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lahlou:\u003c/strong> Hillary Clinton decided to start this new initiative called culinary diplomacy, using food as soft diplomacy. When dignitaries come to the United States from North Africa, I will cook for them. The main task, though is for me to travel and talk about how we care about the world, and care about the environment...that covers what we eat, what we produce and our children.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Imagine if you have a Japanese dignitary coming to the U.S. who has food made by an American with strong links to Japan. It will show them we care and that they are cared for, and I think that’s really important. This whole thing is labeled soft diplomacy. There’s also hard diplomacy, which is the typical way of doing diplomacy. I’m really surprised that it’s taken this long for this initiative to happen. Food is the one thing that we all put into our own body to achieve many purposes: to survive, to be entertained. By cooking, you’re sustaining someone’s life. It’s a very powerful but overlooked way of achieving diplomacy. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I will travel to New York and Washington, D.C., as well as abroad. Every time I go abroad, I have to go to the embassies and consulates. I also will do conferences, events and connect with people on the internet. It’s not just a title, and you don’t just show up for an event. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dignitaries are coming to the United States on a daily basis. You’ll get advanced notice three days ahead, a week, three months -- of course, all the chefs are all stoked and really want to make sure it’s a success. It needs to be nurtured and taken care of. We would like other chefs to be invited to participate in this initiative so it grows. So the chefs are a very important part of this process.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What are you passionate about food-wise these days?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lahlou:\u003c/strong> I’ve really been obsessing and having a hard time with reduced sauces. You know when you eat a dish that’s really sticky and it’s been strained 20 times? It’s delicious and the flavor is deep and profound but it lacquers your tongue. You have to power wash to get it off. It’s so ugly. I’m experimenting with figuring out the components in the sauce so that I can reduce it without it getting sticky, so that it stays runny. If I can figure out how to break the molecules, then I will have a brothy sauce that is also reduced, flavorful and amazing. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Do you have favorite food/drink spots in the Bay Area?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lahlou:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nMy favorite spot to slurp a bowl of noodles is \u003ca href=\"http://turtletowersf.com/\">Turtle Tower\u003c/a>. They have the best pho ga long in town. It’s a great chicken noodle soup with giblets, which is the bomb on a cold, foggy San Francisco summer day.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'd drive across town in rush hour traffic to eat at \u003ca href=\"http://coirestaurant.com/\">Coi\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.benusf.com/\">Benu\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.saisonsf.com/splash.html\">Saison\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.manresarestaurant.com/\">Manresa\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.commisrestaurant.com/\">Commis\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.spqrsf.com/\">SPQR\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.baragricole.com/\">Bar Agricole\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://outerlandssf.com/\">Outerlands\u003c/a>. I would actually walk across town in a rainy day to eat at any of these places. Did i mention that I would walk uphill both ways??\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nothing says San Francisco on a plate more than the Crab Louie served at \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/swan-oyster-depot-san-francisco\">Swan Oyster Depot\u003c/a>, which epitomizes San Francisco in every bite. It’s simple, delicious and crazy fresh seafood and the place to take any out-of-towner and watch them lick their fingers because they can't understand why the food is so deceptively tasty.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My go-to place on my night off is at home. I’d order whatever i feel like. It works every time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For sushi, \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/ino-sushi-san-francisco\">Ino Sushi\u003c/a> has out-of-this-world sushi by Chef Ino who gets to do whatever the f*ck he wants to. It's better that way.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The best tacos are from \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/el-gallo-giro-taco-truck-san-francisco\">El Gallo Giro\u003c/a> on 23rd street and Treat Avenue. They sell these out of a truck but they have the best tacos in town and they are ideal for eating while paying attention to something more serious than just food for a change. They are much tastier than pizza and they don't get stale as quickly. Try their roast chicken, which are so tasty that they make you not miss pork at all.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For my best late night hangout, if it's before 1am, I would choose \u003ca href=\"http://nopasf.com/\">Nopa\u003c/a>. I love their burger and roast chicken. You can't beat it at that hour of the night, morning or whatever it's called. If we're talking after 1am, then it's \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/my-canh-san-francisco\">My Canh\u003c/a> on Broadway, for cheap, tasty grub made when most decent cooks in the city are too tired and drowning in their beer or cocktails; this is San Francisco after all.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Who are your mentors?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lahlou:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://www.joycegoldstein.com/\">Joyce Goldstein\u003c/a> is an amazing human being. She’s known me 16 or 17 years. She’s a great friend and is so honest to a fault. She’ll tell you something to your face and I love that. She cares even on a more profound level. We’ve been friends and close for so many years. She respects and loves what I do and always tells me her opinion. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What are the pros and cons of building a restaurant business?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lahlou: \u003c/strong>The pros are the community. You’re dealing with people who frequent your restaurant who know and appreciate food. Where else can you see someone from another region and country and have it be a success. Look at Mission Chinese, at Bar Tartine. We are so open-minded and embracing of other cultures...That’s a huge draw for me. I feel like people allow me to experiment. They don’t stigmatize me with ethnicity. They don’t ask you to be the same. They don’t have a set of prejudices. They give you room to grow and experiment. When I first started, I was doing traditional Moroccan. I grew and people allowed me to do it differently and to grow. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The produce, farmers and community are also great. It makes it so much easier having easy access to them. We tend to take for granted that. I go to New York quite a bit but our produce puts them to shame. Take Joe’s Early Girl tomatoes, which are so amazing by themselves. They’re like a bundle of flavor that just explodes in your mouth. I think it’s wonderful to get up and go to the farmers' market and then be able to cook with the produce. One of the hardest things is to go to other places and use different tomatoes. You have to manipulate the food more to make it taste better.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The hardest thing about having a restaurant in the Bay Area is that no matter what, it’s a small town. You get a limited area, surrounded with water. It doesn't expand like L.A., which makes it so intimate and limited in a way, you know? Restaurants are opening all the time. The problem I have is: the quality of the cooks. There are great cooks but it’s really hard to find and hold on to great cooks. That’s one issue that has to be addressed sooner or later. It doesn’t allow for one place to have a bunch of great cooks who can elevate to the next level. The cost of living in the Bay Area is so, so high so cooks end up leaving and going somewhere else -- back to New York, Chicago or L.A. because they just can’t be there. We end up losing them. I call it the brain drain because we lose the smartest, brightest cooks. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: How did you learn to cook such great food?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lahlou:\u003c/strong> The environment was really fertile for me to grow in a culinary sense. If my family would have known I was going to be a cook, to travel 6,000 miles to cook, they would have revolted. It would not even be an acceptable option for me. I allowed myself to be exposed to different cultures. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was going to go to college in France and stay with my aunt. I had an idea that I wanted to instead go to America. My grandpa wanted to find a way to tell me “It’s not a great idea, but yeah, if you want to get a visa, just know that it’s extremely hard.” Once he said it at the table in front of everyone, I was able to give it a try. I got a five-year visa and was so excited. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Everyone was shocked. My family had promised I could do it and within two to three weeks I was in a plane on my way to San Francisco. I was so homesick and business was hard. I couldn’t fly back to Morocco; it takes a day to fly back there. The one thing I could do to connect to them was food -- I started making things and it was terrible. I was so lost and so sad, there were so many tears and sleepless nights. Eventually I started using my memory to recreate the days and memories with all the women shopping and cooking in Morocco. I was really reliving those moments. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, in Morocco there are no recipes. I would call someone and say “how did you make that tagine?” they’d say a “pinch of this and pinch of that.” I was in college (at San Francisco State) for economics but I was learning how to preserve things, how to break down a fish and how to cook, really. Eventually by the time I was finished with college, people said, “You should open a restaurant.” I had $3,700 to my name and so I opened a restaurant. I had no idea what I had gotten myself into. Once I opened the restaurant, it was traditional food, and I started to watch people eat, and talk to people about themselves and their food preferences. I started to realize that food has to have a sense of place. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Food has to connect people to where there are. I can’t cook food in the same way it’s made in Morocco. Food connects people to their past. They want to taste the stew that their great grandma made. It’s not Facebook or Twitter that connects us, it’s through memories and through food. It's how we stay connected to people and the past. Here in America it’s always “What’s new?” and “What are the trends?” People are always looking into the future here. I was stuck because the way I was cooking was in the past. But the way people are here is that they look into the future, looking at the ingredients. Food here is a religion, a way of life... where is that carrot and chicken from? There’s an obsession here. I had to change the way I was thinking about food. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was taking those ideas -- the foods from Marrakesh and making it in SF but it didn’t make any sense. What I’m making now is food for the Bay Area. I think that’s what’s really cool. \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Mary Ladd interviews Chef Mourad Lahlou, who recently accepted a position as a culinary diplomat in a program pioneered by Secretary of State Hillary Clinton. Lahlou details his favorite dining spots as well as what the local culinary \"brain drain\" is.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/560BAB_Mourad-Lahlou-Deborah-Jones-2.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/560BAB_Mourad-Lahlou-Deborah-Jones-2.jpg\" alt=\"Mourad Lahlou. Photo: Deborah Jones\" title=\"Mourad Lahlou. Photo: Deborah Jones\" width=\"560\" height=\"373\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50274\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Mourad Lahlou. Photo: Deborah Jones\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Self-taught chef and restaurateur Mourad Lahlou is the one name repeatedly whispered at industry events as someone who is innovative and daring. Lahlou’s first cookbook “\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Mourad-New-Moroccan-Lahlou/dp/1579654290\">Mourad: New Moroccan\u003c/a>” came out last year and the recipes reveal his personal interpretation of his native Moroccan cuisine. Eating at his Michelin starred restaurant \u003ca href=\"http://www.aziza-sf.com/\">Aziza\u003c/a> remains a popular “must-do” for many, and Lahlou was recently appointed a culinary ambassador by Secretary of State \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodpolitics.com/wp-content/uploads/Diplomatic-Culinary-Partnership-Initiative-One-Pager.pdf\">Hillary Clinton\u003c/a>. Lahlou is also gearing up to open a new restaurant in downtown San Francisco, which Lahlou has said will be different than Aziza. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bay Area Bites caught up with Lahlou via a telephone and an email interview recently. His comments have been edited for length and clarity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: How did you become a culinary ambassador? How will it change your schedule?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lahlou:\u003c/strong> Hillary Clinton decided to start this new initiative called culinary diplomacy, using food as soft diplomacy. When dignitaries come to the United States from North Africa, I will cook for them. The main task, though is for me to travel and talk about how we care about the world, and care about the environment...that covers what we eat, what we produce and our children.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Imagine if you have a Japanese dignitary coming to the U.S. who has food made by an American with strong links to Japan. It will show them we care and that they are cared for, and I think that’s really important. This whole thing is labeled soft diplomacy. There’s also hard diplomacy, which is the typical way of doing diplomacy. I’m really surprised that it’s taken this long for this initiative to happen. Food is the one thing that we all put into our own body to achieve many purposes: to survive, to be entertained. By cooking, you’re sustaining someone’s life. It’s a very powerful but overlooked way of achieving diplomacy. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I will travel to New York and Washington, D.C., as well as abroad. Every time I go abroad, I have to go to the embassies and consulates. I also will do conferences, events and connect with people on the internet. It’s not just a title, and you don’t just show up for an event. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dignitaries are coming to the United States on a daily basis. You’ll get advanced notice three days ahead, a week, three months -- of course, all the chefs are all stoked and really want to make sure it’s a success. It needs to be nurtured and taken care of. We would like other chefs to be invited to participate in this initiative so it grows. So the chefs are a very important part of this process.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What are you passionate about food-wise these days?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lahlou:\u003c/strong> I’ve really been obsessing and having a hard time with reduced sauces. You know when you eat a dish that’s really sticky and it’s been strained 20 times? It’s delicious and the flavor is deep and profound but it lacquers your tongue. You have to power wash to get it off. It’s so ugly. I’m experimenting with figuring out the components in the sauce so that I can reduce it without it getting sticky, so that it stays runny. If I can figure out how to break the molecules, then I will have a brothy sauce that is also reduced, flavorful and amazing. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Do you have favorite food/drink spots in the Bay Area?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lahlou:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nMy favorite spot to slurp a bowl of noodles is \u003ca href=\"http://turtletowersf.com/\">Turtle Tower\u003c/a>. They have the best pho ga long in town. It’s a great chicken noodle soup with giblets, which is the bomb on a cold, foggy San Francisco summer day.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'd drive across town in rush hour traffic to eat at \u003ca href=\"http://coirestaurant.com/\">Coi\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.benusf.com/\">Benu\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.saisonsf.com/splash.html\">Saison\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.manresarestaurant.com/\">Manresa\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.commisrestaurant.com/\">Commis\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.spqrsf.com/\">SPQR\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.baragricole.com/\">Bar Agricole\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://outerlandssf.com/\">Outerlands\u003c/a>. I would actually walk across town in a rainy day to eat at any of these places. Did i mention that I would walk uphill both ways??\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nothing says San Francisco on a plate more than the Crab Louie served at \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/swan-oyster-depot-san-francisco\">Swan Oyster Depot\u003c/a>, which epitomizes San Francisco in every bite. It’s simple, delicious and crazy fresh seafood and the place to take any out-of-towner and watch them lick their fingers because they can't understand why the food is so deceptively tasty.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My go-to place on my night off is at home. I’d order whatever i feel like. It works every time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For sushi, \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/ino-sushi-san-francisco\">Ino Sushi\u003c/a> has out-of-this-world sushi by Chef Ino who gets to do whatever the f*ck he wants to. It's better that way.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The best tacos are from \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/el-gallo-giro-taco-truck-san-francisco\">El Gallo Giro\u003c/a> on 23rd street and Treat Avenue. They sell these out of a truck but they have the best tacos in town and they are ideal for eating while paying attention to something more serious than just food for a change. They are much tastier than pizza and they don't get stale as quickly. Try their roast chicken, which are so tasty that they make you not miss pork at all.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For my best late night hangout, if it's before 1am, I would choose \u003ca href=\"http://nopasf.com/\">Nopa\u003c/a>. I love their burger and roast chicken. You can't beat it at that hour of the night, morning or whatever it's called. If we're talking after 1am, then it's \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/my-canh-san-francisco\">My Canh\u003c/a> on Broadway, for cheap, tasty grub made when most decent cooks in the city are too tired and drowning in their beer or cocktails; this is San Francisco after all.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Who are your mentors?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lahlou:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://www.joycegoldstein.com/\">Joyce Goldstein\u003c/a> is an amazing human being. She’s known me 16 or 17 years. She’s a great friend and is so honest to a fault. She’ll tell you something to your face and I love that. She cares even on a more profound level. We’ve been friends and close for so many years. She respects and loves what I do and always tells me her opinion. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What are the pros and cons of building a restaurant business?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lahlou: \u003c/strong>The pros are the community. You’re dealing with people who frequent your restaurant who know and appreciate food. Where else can you see someone from another region and country and have it be a success. Look at Mission Chinese, at Bar Tartine. We are so open-minded and embracing of other cultures...That’s a huge draw for me. I feel like people allow me to experiment. They don’t stigmatize me with ethnicity. They don’t ask you to be the same. They don’t have a set of prejudices. They give you room to grow and experiment. When I first started, I was doing traditional Moroccan. I grew and people allowed me to do it differently and to grow. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The produce, farmers and community are also great. It makes it so much easier having easy access to them. We tend to take for granted that. I go to New York quite a bit but our produce puts them to shame. Take Joe’s Early Girl tomatoes, which are so amazing by themselves. They’re like a bundle of flavor that just explodes in your mouth. I think it’s wonderful to get up and go to the farmers' market and then be able to cook with the produce. One of the hardest things is to go to other places and use different tomatoes. You have to manipulate the food more to make it taste better.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The hardest thing about having a restaurant in the Bay Area is that no matter what, it’s a small town. You get a limited area, surrounded with water. It doesn't expand like L.A., which makes it so intimate and limited in a way, you know? Restaurants are opening all the time. The problem I have is: the quality of the cooks. There are great cooks but it’s really hard to find and hold on to great cooks. That’s one issue that has to be addressed sooner or later. It doesn’t allow for one place to have a bunch of great cooks who can elevate to the next level. The cost of living in the Bay Area is so, so high so cooks end up leaving and going somewhere else -- back to New York, Chicago or L.A. because they just can’t be there. We end up losing them. I call it the brain drain because we lose the smartest, brightest cooks. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: How did you learn to cook such great food?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lahlou:\u003c/strong> The environment was really fertile for me to grow in a culinary sense. If my family would have known I was going to be a cook, to travel 6,000 miles to cook, they would have revolted. It would not even be an acceptable option for me. I allowed myself to be exposed to different cultures. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was going to go to college in France and stay with my aunt. I had an idea that I wanted to instead go to America. My grandpa wanted to find a way to tell me “It’s not a great idea, but yeah, if you want to get a visa, just know that it’s extremely hard.” Once he said it at the table in front of everyone, I was able to give it a try. I got a five-year visa and was so excited. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Everyone was shocked. My family had promised I could do it and within two to three weeks I was in a plane on my way to San Francisco. I was so homesick and business was hard. I couldn’t fly back to Morocco; it takes a day to fly back there. The one thing I could do to connect to them was food -- I started making things and it was terrible. I was so lost and so sad, there were so many tears and sleepless nights. Eventually I started using my memory to recreate the days and memories with all the women shopping and cooking in Morocco. I was really reliving those moments. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, in Morocco there are no recipes. I would call someone and say “how did you make that tagine?” they’d say a “pinch of this and pinch of that.” I was in college (at San Francisco State) for economics but I was learning how to preserve things, how to break down a fish and how to cook, really. Eventually by the time I was finished with college, people said, “You should open a restaurant.” I had $3,700 to my name and so I opened a restaurant. I had no idea what I had gotten myself into. Once I opened the restaurant, it was traditional food, and I started to watch people eat, and talk to people about themselves and their food preferences. I started to realize that food has to have a sense of place. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Food has to connect people to where there are. I can’t cook food in the same way it’s made in Morocco. Food connects people to their past. They want to taste the stew that their great grandma made. It’s not Facebook or Twitter that connects us, it’s through memories and through food. It's how we stay connected to people and the past. Here in America it’s always “What’s new?” and “What are the trends?” People are always looking into the future here. I was stuck because the way I was cooking was in the past. But the way people are here is that they look into the future, looking at the ingredients. Food here is a religion, a way of life... where is that carrot and chicken from? There’s an obsession here. I had to change the way I was thinking about food. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "Recipe: Pumpkin Doughnut Holes",
"title": "Recipe: Pumpkin Doughnut Holes",
"headTitle": "Halloween Recipes | Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/pumpkin-donutholes1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/pumpkin-donutholes560.jpg\" alt=\"Pumpkin Donut Holes\" title=\"Pumpkin Donut Holes\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50248\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Happy autumn! Happy Halloween! Pumpkin patches are open for business, black cats, ghosts, and sugar skulls are decorating every shop window, and crazily colorful winter squash are spilling their stripy, curvy glory across produce stands and farmers' market tables everywhere. Being a Libra/Scorpio with a late-October birthday, I've always had an extra-special--all right, downright personal--appreciation for the seasonal joys of this time of year. Apples fresh off the tree, cider pressing, crisp air and deep blue skies, the vivid sunset hues of persimmons, pomegranates, eggplants, and peppers at the market, the slippery squish of pumpkin seeds scraped from a jack o' lantern: somehow it all links up with the promise of birthday cake, presents, and the imminent delight of dressing up for Halloween.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But you don't have to have a October birthday (even though it \u003cem>is\u003c/em> the best time to born, as all your Libra/Scorpio buddies will agree) to love this time of year, especially now that our last-gasp heat wave has given way to cooler days and the promise of rain. It's soup weather, sweater weather, pumpkin-latte weather, and yes, homemade doughnut weather! \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Bay Area has had a renaissance of doughnut vendors of late, what with the continued success of \u003ca href=\"http://www.facebook.com/dynamodonut\">Dynamo Donut and Coffee\u003c/a> and the recent Oakland openings of both \u003ca href=\"http://www.facebook.com/donutsavant\">Donut Savant\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.facebook.com/DoughnutDolly\">Doughnut Dolly\u003c/a>. Having just finished writing a doughnut cookbook, \"World of Doughnuts,\" which will be published in spring 2013, I've had doughnuts on my mind (and filling my kitchen) lately, and I can tell you, making doughnuts at home is \u003cem>no big deal.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yes, deep-frying, eeek! But you know what you need to fry? Not much! A cast-iron pot that's at least 4 inches deep (a Dutch oven is ideal), a couple quarts of vegetable oil, and a deep-frying or candy thermometer (any kind, as long as it's easy to read and registers up to 400°F). And then, a slotted spoon to take out the doughnuts, a baking sheet lined with paper towels, and a bunch of doughnut-hungry friends, since anything fried is at its best when it's fresh. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That pot of oil is not going to spontaneously combust, as long as you use general kitchen common sense. Never leave the room with oil heating on the stove. Depending on your stove, it can take 10-12 minutes to bring a pot of oil up to the correct temperature. Check the oil's temperature frequently with your thermometer, and adjust the heat accordingly. Just washed sticky batter off your hands? Make sure your hands are absolutely dry before you get near that hot oil, as even a drop of water can make it sputter and spit in your face. Once you start frying, it shouldn't take longer than 2 to 3 minutes to finish a batch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These pumpkin doughnut holes taste like fall to me, especially with some cold or hot mulled cider to wash them down. (Look for Rainbow Orchards' delicious, freshly pressed apple cider at farmers' markets around the Bay Area.) While you could use canned pumpkin in these, you'll have more fun and get a tastier result using pumpkin or winter squash you roast and mash yourself. Butternut and Sunshine kabocha squash are my favorites, but any dense-fleshed, flavorful squash will do. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/squash1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/squash560.jpg\" alt=\"squash\" title=\"squash\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50256\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cut the squash in half lengthwise, then scrape out any strings and seeds. Place the squash face down on a lightly oiled or parchment- or Silpat-lined baking sheet and bake at 350°F for approximately 45-60 minutes, until the squash is very soft. When squash is cool enough to handle, scrape out flesh, discarding skin. Pile squash into a colander or sieve and let any excess liquid drain out for an hour or so. Some squash is really wet; others, not at all. It really depends on the squash, its growing conditions, and how long it's been off the vine. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once squash has drained, it's time to make it smooth. The best way to do this is by cranking it through the fine disk of a food mill. Unlike a food processor, which just pulverizes everything, the food mill catches and separates any errant seeds, skin, and strings while quickly turning your squash into a velvety puree. You can also push your squash through a metal mesh strainer with a wooden spoon. Same effect, but it takes longer, and mashing, pushing, and scraping is less satisfying than cranking. Of course, you can just grab a potato masher or a wooden spoon and beat it smooth. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Any extra can go into soup, or be used as a base for \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/tag/pumpkin-bread/\">pumpkin bread\u003c/a>. I've been throwing a few spoonfuls into my buckwheat pancake batter all week. Covered and refrigerated, your squash puree should last at least a week. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/squash-and-donutholes1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/squash-and-donutholes560.jpg\" alt=\"\" title=\"squash-and-donutholes560\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50258\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Pumpkin Doughnut Holes\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nI've suggested a variety of flours here; you can use regular all-purpose white flour, a combination of white flour and whole-wheat pastry flour, or even a wheat-free mixture of oat and barley flours. I haven't tested this recipe with any gluten-free flour mixes, but I imagine they would probably work quite well. (If you do try this recipe using gluten-free flour, please post your feedback in the comments below.) You can also substitute 2 teaspoons of pumpkin pie spice for the mixed spices.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Prep Time:\u003c/strong> 15 minutes\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Cook Time:\u003c/strong> 10 minutes\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Total Time:\u003c/strong> 25 minutes\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Yield:\u003c/strong> About 36 doughnut holes\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n2 cups all-purpose flour; 1 cup all-purpose flour and 1 cup whole wheat pastry flour, OR 1 cup oat flour and 1 cup barley flour\u003cbr>\n2 teaspoons baking powder\u003cbr>\n1/4 teaspoon salt\u003cbr>\n1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon\u003cbr>\n1/2 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg\u003cbr>\n1/4 teaspoon ground cloves\u003cbr>\n1/4 teaspoon ground ginger\u003cbr>\n2 tablespoons butter\u003cbr>\n1/2 cup sugar\u003cbr>\n1 large egg\u003cbr>\n1 teaspoon vanilla extract\u003cbr>\n1/4 cup plain yogurt or buttermilk\u003cbr>\n3/4 cup roasted and mashed pumpkin or winter squash\u003cbr>\nVegetable oil for frying\u003cbr>\nCinnamon sugar for dusting (1/2 cup sugar mixed with 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1. In a Dutch oven or other deep, heavy pot, heat 2 to 3 inches of oil over medium-high heat to 365°F on a candy or deep-frying thermometer. Pour the cinnamon sugar into a wide, shallow bowl or brown paper lunch bag. Line a baking sheet with two layers of paper towels.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. While oil is heating, sift or whisk together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, and spices into a large bowl. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Using a hand-held electric mixer or stand mixer, cream the butter and sugar. Add the egg, buttermilk, vanilla, and pumpkin, beating until smooth. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Add the flour mixture and mix gently on low speed until just combined, stopping once or twice to scrape down the sides of the bowl with a rubber spatula. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5. Dip two metal spoons into the hot oil. Scoop up a tablespoon of dough with one spoon, pushing it off into the hot oil with the other spoon. Continue to drop spoonfuls of dough into the hot oil in batches, being careful not to crowd the pan. Fry for 60 to 90 seconds per side, until golden brown and cooked through. Break open a “test doughnut” from the first batch to make sure the doughnuts are cooking correctly; adjust the heat level of the oil as needed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the doughnut holes to the paper towels to drain. Roll the warm doughnut holes in the cinnamon sugar, or add a few doughnut holes to the bag and shake until covered. Repeat with remaining doughnuts. \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/pumpkin-donutholes1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/pumpkin-donutholes560.jpg\" alt=\"Pumpkin Donut Holes\" title=\"Pumpkin Donut Holes\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50248\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Happy autumn! Happy Halloween! Pumpkin patches are open for business, black cats, ghosts, and sugar skulls are decorating every shop window, and crazily colorful winter squash are spilling their stripy, curvy glory across produce stands and farmers' market tables everywhere. Being a Libra/Scorpio with a late-October birthday, I've always had an extra-special--all right, downright personal--appreciation for the seasonal joys of this time of year. Apples fresh off the tree, cider pressing, crisp air and deep blue skies, the vivid sunset hues of persimmons, pomegranates, eggplants, and peppers at the market, the slippery squish of pumpkin seeds scraped from a jack o' lantern: somehow it all links up with the promise of birthday cake, presents, and the imminent delight of dressing up for Halloween.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But you don't have to have a October birthday (even though it \u003cem>is\u003c/em> the best time to born, as all your Libra/Scorpio buddies will agree) to love this time of year, especially now that our last-gasp heat wave has given way to cooler days and the promise of rain. It's soup weather, sweater weather, pumpkin-latte weather, and yes, homemade doughnut weather! \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Bay Area has had a renaissance of doughnut vendors of late, what with the continued success of \u003ca href=\"http://www.facebook.com/dynamodonut\">Dynamo Donut and Coffee\u003c/a> and the recent Oakland openings of both \u003ca href=\"http://www.facebook.com/donutsavant\">Donut Savant\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.facebook.com/DoughnutDolly\">Doughnut Dolly\u003c/a>. Having just finished writing a doughnut cookbook, \"World of Doughnuts,\" which will be published in spring 2013, I've had doughnuts on my mind (and filling my kitchen) lately, and I can tell you, making doughnuts at home is \u003cem>no big deal.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yes, deep-frying, eeek! But you know what you need to fry? Not much! A cast-iron pot that's at least 4 inches deep (a Dutch oven is ideal), a couple quarts of vegetable oil, and a deep-frying or candy thermometer (any kind, as long as it's easy to read and registers up to 400°F). And then, a slotted spoon to take out the doughnuts, a baking sheet lined with paper towels, and a bunch of doughnut-hungry friends, since anything fried is at its best when it's fresh. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That pot of oil is not going to spontaneously combust, as long as you use general kitchen common sense. Never leave the room with oil heating on the stove. Depending on your stove, it can take 10-12 minutes to bring a pot of oil up to the correct temperature. Check the oil's temperature frequently with your thermometer, and adjust the heat accordingly. Just washed sticky batter off your hands? Make sure your hands are absolutely dry before you get near that hot oil, as even a drop of water can make it sputter and spit in your face. Once you start frying, it shouldn't take longer than 2 to 3 minutes to finish a batch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These pumpkin doughnut holes taste like fall to me, especially with some cold or hot mulled cider to wash them down. (Look for Rainbow Orchards' delicious, freshly pressed apple cider at farmers' markets around the Bay Area.) While you could use canned pumpkin in these, you'll have more fun and get a tastier result using pumpkin or winter squash you roast and mash yourself. Butternut and Sunshine kabocha squash are my favorites, but any dense-fleshed, flavorful squash will do. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/squash1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/squash560.jpg\" alt=\"squash\" title=\"squash\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50256\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cut the squash in half lengthwise, then scrape out any strings and seeds. Place the squash face down on a lightly oiled or parchment- or Silpat-lined baking sheet and bake at 350°F for approximately 45-60 minutes, until the squash is very soft. When squash is cool enough to handle, scrape out flesh, discarding skin. Pile squash into a colander or sieve and let any excess liquid drain out for an hour or so. Some squash is really wet; others, not at all. It really depends on the squash, its growing conditions, and how long it's been off the vine. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once squash has drained, it's time to make it smooth. The best way to do this is by cranking it through the fine disk of a food mill. Unlike a food processor, which just pulverizes everything, the food mill catches and separates any errant seeds, skin, and strings while quickly turning your squash into a velvety puree. You can also push your squash through a metal mesh strainer with a wooden spoon. Same effect, but it takes longer, and mashing, pushing, and scraping is less satisfying than cranking. Of course, you can just grab a potato masher or a wooden spoon and beat it smooth. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Any extra can go into soup, or be used as a base for \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/tag/pumpkin-bread/\">pumpkin bread\u003c/a>. I've been throwing a few spoonfuls into my buckwheat pancake batter all week. Covered and refrigerated, your squash puree should last at least a week. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/squash-and-donutholes1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/squash-and-donutholes560.jpg\" alt=\"\" title=\"squash-and-donutholes560\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50258\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Pumpkin Doughnut Holes\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nI've suggested a variety of flours here; you can use regular all-purpose white flour, a combination of white flour and whole-wheat pastry flour, or even a wheat-free mixture of oat and barley flours. I haven't tested this recipe with any gluten-free flour mixes, but I imagine they would probably work quite well. (If you do try this recipe using gluten-free flour, please post your feedback in the comments below.) You can also substitute 2 teaspoons of pumpkin pie spice for the mixed spices.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Prep Time:\u003c/strong> 15 minutes\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Cook Time:\u003c/strong> 10 minutes\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Total Time:\u003c/strong> 25 minutes\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Yield:\u003c/strong> About 36 doughnut holes\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n2 cups all-purpose flour; 1 cup all-purpose flour and 1 cup whole wheat pastry flour, OR 1 cup oat flour and 1 cup barley flour\u003cbr>\n2 teaspoons baking powder\u003cbr>\n1/4 teaspoon salt\u003cbr>\n1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon\u003cbr>\n1/2 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg\u003cbr>\n1/4 teaspoon ground cloves\u003cbr>\n1/4 teaspoon ground ginger\u003cbr>\n2 tablespoons butter\u003cbr>\n1/2 cup sugar\u003cbr>\n1 large egg\u003cbr>\n1 teaspoon vanilla extract\u003cbr>\n1/4 cup plain yogurt or buttermilk\u003cbr>\n3/4 cup roasted and mashed pumpkin or winter squash\u003cbr>\nVegetable oil for frying\u003cbr>\nCinnamon sugar for dusting (1/2 cup sugar mixed with 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1. In a Dutch oven or other deep, heavy pot, heat 2 to 3 inches of oil over medium-high heat to 365°F on a candy or deep-frying thermometer. Pour the cinnamon sugar into a wide, shallow bowl or brown paper lunch bag. Line a baking sheet with two layers of paper towels.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. While oil is heating, sift or whisk together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, and spices into a large bowl. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Using a hand-held electric mixer or stand mixer, cream the butter and sugar. Add the egg, buttermilk, vanilla, and pumpkin, beating until smooth. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Add the flour mixture and mix gently on low speed until just combined, stopping once or twice to scrape down the sides of the bowl with a rubber spatula. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5. Dip two metal spoons into the hot oil. Scoop up a tablespoon of dough with one spoon, pushing it off into the hot oil with the other spoon. Continue to drop spoonfuls of dough into the hot oil in batches, being careful not to crowd the pan. Fry for 60 to 90 seconds per side, until golden brown and cooked through. Break open a “test doughnut” from the first batch to make sure the doughnuts are cooking correctly; adjust the heat level of the oil as needed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the doughnut holes to the paper towels to drain. Roll the warm doughnut holes in the cinnamon sugar, or add a few doughnut holes to the bag and shake until covered. Repeat with remaining doughnuts. \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Celebrate Day of the Dead with Sugar Skulls and Pan de Muerto ",
"title": "Celebrate Day of the Dead with Sugar Skulls and Pan de Muerto ",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/skulls-bakery.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50163\" title=\"skulls bakery\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/skulls-bakery.jpg\" alt=\"skulls bakery\" width=\"560\" height=\"551\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Sugar Skulls from Berkeley's Casa Latina Bakery\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Aren't skeletons, with their cavernous eye sockets and leering gap-toothed grins, supposed to inspire screams of terror?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Growing up in the central Mexican city of San Miguel de Allende, Adrian Orozco Blair, a 26-year student now living in San Francisco, didn't find the skeletons that are an integral part of \u003ca href=\"http://gomexico.about.com/od/festivalsholidays/p/day_of_the_dead.htm\">Day of the Dead\u003c/a> celebrations to be spooky, \"because the skulls were sweet sugar candy and you could eat them. We had an altar in our house with pictures of our cherished ancestors. Lighting the candles was a serious moment of acknowledgement, but the altars were so colorful and full of food that it took away the scariness.\" In fact, he still treasures Day of the Dead as \"a way the natural cycles of life are celebrated and a time when the existence of death is befriended.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Day_of_the_Dead\">Dia de los Muertos\u003c/a> (Day of the Dead) traces its roots to an Aztec festival that merged with the Catholic All Saints and All Souls days. Celebrated in central and southern Mexico on November 1 and 2, families spend weeks before preparing home altars. At midnight on October 31, the gates of heaven are believed to open so that the spirits of deceased children may reunite with their families for one day. Altars are decorated with toys, candy, chocolate, little glasses of milk and small sugar skulls. On November 2, the adult spirits descend to enjoy the festivities and the altars may be set with tequila or the corn-based drink \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Atole\">\u003cem>atole\u003c/em>\u003c/a> and favored personal objects of the deceased. In the afternoon, families move the celebration to the cemeteries, to clean graves and reminisce about their departed loved ones while enjoying a feast.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Regional traditions influence the exact make-up of the altars, but common elements include candles, marigolds, incense, photos of the deceased, cut-out paper banners, fruit, candied pumpkin, mole sauce, stacks of tortillas, pan de muerto (sweet egg bread, fashioned with a bone-shaped top) and decorated sugar skulls. These last two edible items caught my fancy and after a little looking, I've complied a list of places to buy or learn to make sugar skulls and pan de muerto in the coming week.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/eleanor.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50164\" title=\"eleanor of ethnic arts\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/eleanor.jpg\" alt=\"eleanor of ethnic arts\" width=\"400\" height=\"482\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Eleanor Hopewell, owner Ethnic Arts\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At Berkeley's \u003ca href=\"http://ethnicarts.com/\">Ethnic Arts\u003c/a> -- a shop much more like a museum -- amid Indonesian shadow puppets, African masks and Indian painted silks, stands a traditional Mexican altar set with candles, sodas, fruit and figurines of skeletons in a myriad of guises from bride and groom, to \"lady of the night\" and even dog and cat skeletons. The altar is decorated with cut-out tissue paper panels, surrounded by marigolds and day-glo colored skulls. Nearby is a large table set with pre-made sugar skulls and everything to decorate your own: bags of bright colored icing, foil, feathers, glitter and sequins. Owner Eleanor Hopewell has been offering this table of materials to children and adults in the community for 25 years.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/DIY-sugar-skull.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50167\" title=\"DIY sugar skull\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/DIY-sugar-skull.jpg\" alt=\"DIY sugar skull\" width=\"560\" height=\"379\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>DIY sugar skull decorating for kids and adults $5/skull at Ethnic Arts\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hopewell, who has traveled extensively in Mexico, was struck by the fun, festive spirit of Oaxaca's candle-lit processions to the cemetery, the bright colors and sharing of good memories that accompany inviting the spirits of loved ones to come back and visit. A picture of Hopewell's own mother is placed on the altar because, \"Mom always loved a good party.\" Hopewell tells me the mood of the Mexican Day of the Dead celebrations she experienced was not gloomy but upbeat and inviting. \"It's common to write the dead person's name on one sugar skull and your name on the other. It's not morbid, it serves as an invitation to show you want their spirit to come and be with you.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/molds.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50168\" title=\"molds\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/molds.jpg\" alt=\"molds\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Where to Buy or Make your Own Sugar Skulls and Pan de Muerto or Join the Festivities \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>East Bay\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.ethnicarts.com\">Ethnic Arts\u003c/a> -- decorate your own sugar skull -- $5 during store hours 11-6 (good to call ahead as local school groups may be there)\u003cbr>\n1314 Tenth Street, Berkeley (moving to 2236 San Pablo in mid-Nov.)\u003cbr>\n(510) 527-5270\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/bread-bakery.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50165\" title=\"bread bakery\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/bread-bakery.jpg\" alt=\"bread bakery\" width=\"560\" height=\"474\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Pan de Muerto topped with \"bones\" from Berkeley's Casa Latina Bakery\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/casa-latina-bakery-berkeley\">Casa Latina Bakery\u003c/a> -- Pan de Muerto, decorative sugar skulls and small edible chocolate skulls.\u003cbr>\n1805 San Pablo Ave., Berkeley\u003cbr>\n(510) 558-7177\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/skulls.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50170\" title=\"skulls\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/skulls.jpg\" alt=\"skulls\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Oakland Museum of California is hosting their 18th annual \u003ca href=\"http://museumca.org/calendar/18th-annual-community-celebration-days-dead\">Community Celebration for Days of the Dead\u003c/a> Sunday \u003cstrong>October 21. 12-4:30\u003c/strong> with dance and musical performances and vendors selling pan de muerto, sugar skulls and other craft items to decorate your home altar.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>NEW ADDITIONS:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Oakland's Unity Council sponsors its 17th annual \u003ca href=\"http://www.unitycouncil.org/dia-de-los-muertos/\">Dia de los Muertos Festival\u003c/a> on \u003cstrong>Sunday October 28, 10-5,\u003c/strong> Fruitvale Village, features live music, Aztec dancers, altars and more.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/events/422301724496589/\">North Berkeley's Dia de los Muertos\u003c/a> Celebration on \u003cstrong>Friday November 2, from 5-9pm\u003c/strong> promises a candlelight procession led by Aztec dancers. Revelers are encouraged to wear costumes or giant paper mâché heads.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/pan-de-muertos.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50169\" title=\"pan de muerto\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/pan-de-muertos.jpg\" alt=\"pan de muerto\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Pan de Muerto\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>San Francisco\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A print shop on Mission Street called \u003ca href=\"http://www.autumnpress.com/autumn-express/exp/shop/category.aspx?catid=82\">Autumn Express\u003c/a> is offering a skull decorating workshop\u003cstrong> Tuesday October 23 from 5-6pm\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.lavictoriabakery.com/\">La Victoria Panaderia\u003c/a> on 24th Street will bake Pan de Muerto throughout the month.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.lacocinasf.org/\">La Cocina\u003c/a> is hosting \u003ca href=\"http://www.lacocinasf.org/events/october-24th-dia-de-los-muertos/\">an evening exploring the Day of the Dead\u003c/a> food and culture connection at their Folsom street center in the Mission on \u003cstrong>Wednesday October 24, 6:30-9pm\u003c/strong> with one of the graduates of their incubator program, Chef Luis Valdez, a fifth-generation Yucatecan bread maker and co-owner with his wife of \u003ca href=\"http://chaacmool.com/\">Chaac Mool\u003c/a> food cart and catering. Chef Valdez will teach participants how to make traditional breads and other dishes for Day of the Dead. The event includes dinner and drinks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On November 2, 6-11pm\u003c/strong> -- San Francisco’s Annual \u003ca href=\"http://www.dayofthedeadsf.org/\">Procession and Festival of Altars\u003c/a> at Garfield Park sponsored by The Marigold Project\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/skull-fabric.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50222\" title=\"skull fabric\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/skull-fabric.jpg\" alt=\"skull fabric\" width=\"400\" height=\"536\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Decorate sugar skulls with icing, sequins and feathers or learn to make bone-shaped Pan de Muerto bread for the upcoming Day of the Dead festivities in the Bay Area.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/skulls-bakery.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50163\" title=\"skulls bakery\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/skulls-bakery.jpg\" alt=\"skulls bakery\" width=\"560\" height=\"551\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Sugar Skulls from Berkeley's Casa Latina Bakery\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Aren't skeletons, with their cavernous eye sockets and leering gap-toothed grins, supposed to inspire screams of terror?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Growing up in the central Mexican city of San Miguel de Allende, Adrian Orozco Blair, a 26-year student now living in San Francisco, didn't find the skeletons that are an integral part of \u003ca href=\"http://gomexico.about.com/od/festivalsholidays/p/day_of_the_dead.htm\">Day of the Dead\u003c/a> celebrations to be spooky, \"because the skulls were sweet sugar candy and you could eat them. We had an altar in our house with pictures of our cherished ancestors. Lighting the candles was a serious moment of acknowledgement, but the altars were so colorful and full of food that it took away the scariness.\" In fact, he still treasures Day of the Dead as \"a way the natural cycles of life are celebrated and a time when the existence of death is befriended.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Day_of_the_Dead\">Dia de los Muertos\u003c/a> (Day of the Dead) traces its roots to an Aztec festival that merged with the Catholic All Saints and All Souls days. Celebrated in central and southern Mexico on November 1 and 2, families spend weeks before preparing home altars. At midnight on October 31, the gates of heaven are believed to open so that the spirits of deceased children may reunite with their families for one day. Altars are decorated with toys, candy, chocolate, little glasses of milk and small sugar skulls. On November 2, the adult spirits descend to enjoy the festivities and the altars may be set with tequila or the corn-based drink \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Atole\">\u003cem>atole\u003c/em>\u003c/a> and favored personal objects of the deceased. In the afternoon, families move the celebration to the cemeteries, to clean graves and reminisce about their departed loved ones while enjoying a feast.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Regional traditions influence the exact make-up of the altars, but common elements include candles, marigolds, incense, photos of the deceased, cut-out paper banners, fruit, candied pumpkin, mole sauce, stacks of tortillas, pan de muerto (sweet egg bread, fashioned with a bone-shaped top) and decorated sugar skulls. These last two edible items caught my fancy and after a little looking, I've complied a list of places to buy or learn to make sugar skulls and pan de muerto in the coming week.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/eleanor.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50164\" title=\"eleanor of ethnic arts\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/eleanor.jpg\" alt=\"eleanor of ethnic arts\" width=\"400\" height=\"482\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Eleanor Hopewell, owner Ethnic Arts\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At Berkeley's \u003ca href=\"http://ethnicarts.com/\">Ethnic Arts\u003c/a> -- a shop much more like a museum -- amid Indonesian shadow puppets, African masks and Indian painted silks, stands a traditional Mexican altar set with candles, sodas, fruit and figurines of skeletons in a myriad of guises from bride and groom, to \"lady of the night\" and even dog and cat skeletons. The altar is decorated with cut-out tissue paper panels, surrounded by marigolds and day-glo colored skulls. Nearby is a large table set with pre-made sugar skulls and everything to decorate your own: bags of bright colored icing, foil, feathers, glitter and sequins. Owner Eleanor Hopewell has been offering this table of materials to children and adults in the community for 25 years.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/DIY-sugar-skull.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50167\" title=\"DIY sugar skull\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/DIY-sugar-skull.jpg\" alt=\"DIY sugar skull\" width=\"560\" height=\"379\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>DIY sugar skull decorating for kids and adults $5/skull at Ethnic Arts\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hopewell, who has traveled extensively in Mexico, was struck by the fun, festive spirit of Oaxaca's candle-lit processions to the cemetery, the bright colors and sharing of good memories that accompany inviting the spirits of loved ones to come back and visit. A picture of Hopewell's own mother is placed on the altar because, \"Mom always loved a good party.\" Hopewell tells me the mood of the Mexican Day of the Dead celebrations she experienced was not gloomy but upbeat and inviting. \"It's common to write the dead person's name on one sugar skull and your name on the other. It's not morbid, it serves as an invitation to show you want their spirit to come and be with you.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/molds.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50168\" title=\"molds\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/molds.jpg\" alt=\"molds\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Where to Buy or Make your Own Sugar Skulls and Pan de Muerto or Join the Festivities \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>East Bay\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.ethnicarts.com\">Ethnic Arts\u003c/a> -- decorate your own sugar skull -- $5 during store hours 11-6 (good to call ahead as local school groups may be there)\u003cbr>\n1314 Tenth Street, Berkeley (moving to 2236 San Pablo in mid-Nov.)\u003cbr>\n(510) 527-5270\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/bread-bakery.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50165\" title=\"bread bakery\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/bread-bakery.jpg\" alt=\"bread bakery\" width=\"560\" height=\"474\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Pan de Muerto topped with \"bones\" from Berkeley's Casa Latina Bakery\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/casa-latina-bakery-berkeley\">Casa Latina Bakery\u003c/a> -- Pan de Muerto, decorative sugar skulls and small edible chocolate skulls.\u003cbr>\n1805 San Pablo Ave., Berkeley\u003cbr>\n(510) 558-7177\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/skulls.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50170\" title=\"skulls\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/skulls.jpg\" alt=\"skulls\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Oakland Museum of California is hosting their 18th annual \u003ca href=\"http://museumca.org/calendar/18th-annual-community-celebration-days-dead\">Community Celebration for Days of the Dead\u003c/a> Sunday \u003cstrong>October 21. 12-4:30\u003c/strong> with dance and musical performances and vendors selling pan de muerto, sugar skulls and other craft items to decorate your home altar.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>NEW ADDITIONS:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Oakland's Unity Council sponsors its 17th annual \u003ca href=\"http://www.unitycouncil.org/dia-de-los-muertos/\">Dia de los Muertos Festival\u003c/a> on \u003cstrong>Sunday October 28, 10-5,\u003c/strong> Fruitvale Village, features live music, Aztec dancers, altars and more.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/events/422301724496589/\">North Berkeley's Dia de los Muertos\u003c/a> Celebration on \u003cstrong>Friday November 2, from 5-9pm\u003c/strong> promises a candlelight procession led by Aztec dancers. Revelers are encouraged to wear costumes or giant paper mâché heads.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/pan-de-muertos.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50169\" title=\"pan de muerto\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/pan-de-muertos.jpg\" alt=\"pan de muerto\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Pan de Muerto\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>San Francisco\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A print shop on Mission Street called \u003ca href=\"http://www.autumnpress.com/autumn-express/exp/shop/category.aspx?catid=82\">Autumn Express\u003c/a> is offering a skull decorating workshop\u003cstrong> Tuesday October 23 from 5-6pm\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.lavictoriabakery.com/\">La Victoria Panaderia\u003c/a> on 24th Street will bake Pan de Muerto throughout the month.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.lacocinasf.org/\">La Cocina\u003c/a> is hosting \u003ca href=\"http://www.lacocinasf.org/events/october-24th-dia-de-los-muertos/\">an evening exploring the Day of the Dead\u003c/a> food and culture connection at their Folsom street center in the Mission on \u003cstrong>Wednesday October 24, 6:30-9pm\u003c/strong> with one of the graduates of their incubator program, Chef Luis Valdez, a fifth-generation Yucatecan bread maker and co-owner with his wife of \u003ca href=\"http://chaacmool.com/\">Chaac Mool\u003c/a> food cart and catering. Chef Valdez will teach participants how to make traditional breads and other dishes for Day of the Dead. The event includes dinner and drinks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On November 2, 6-11pm\u003c/strong> -- San Francisco’s Annual \u003ca href=\"http://www.dayofthedeadsf.org/\">Procession and Festival of Altars\u003c/a> at Garfield Park sponsored by The Marigold Project\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/skull-fabric.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50222\" title=\"skull fabric\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/skull-fabric.jpg\" alt=\"skull fabric\" width=\"400\" height=\"536\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "How To Buy And Store Fresh Tomatoes ",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/IMG_5485.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/IMG_5485.jpg\" alt=\"Tomatoes on the vine\" title=\"Tomatoes on the vine\" width=\"560\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50005\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of my favorite childhood food memories is picking tomatoes fresh from the vine with my dad. I grew up in Sacramento and we didn't have much of a garden in our backyard but those tomato plants made up for it. My mother did all she could to keep me and my father from harvesting them immediately but to no avail. The moment one was ripe, he and I would make a mad dash out the front door to see who could nab it first. I usually won, or maybe he just let me win. Regardless, I attribute these memories to why the tomato is one of my favorite \u003cdel datetime=\"2012-10-16T06:38:13+00:00\">vegetables\u003c/del> fruits. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My desire to share the joy of a good tomato with everyone was the inspiration for making these How-To videos. Now, a store-bought tomato is never going to taste like it was plucked straight from the vine. But there's no reason it can't be a great tasting tomato! All it takes is the steps I outlined below. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>How to Select a Tomato\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ciframe width=\"560\" height=\"315\" src=\"http://www.youtube.com/embed/q-sTFriAahc?list=PL23C10B854AD91955&hl=en_US\" frameborder=\"0\" allowfullscreen>\u003c/iframe>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>Avoid tomatoes with blemishes or dark spots.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>The tomato should have a good weight for its size, feeling heavy.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>The tomato should be firm, yet soft enough to give into any real pressure.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>The tomato should be very aromatic when you smell it near where the stem was attached.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>You want to avoid tomatoes with blemishes or dark spots on the skin as they can indicate rot throughout the entire fruit. It's not a given but they're best avoided just in case. The reason you want the tomato to feel heavy is that a heavy tomato is going to be a lot juicier. While I suggest in video that the fruit be firm yet soft, you can buy them on the firmer side if you do not plan to use them right away, letting them ripen throughout the week. But this can be a bit tricky as I think it is harder to judge a good tomato when it is under ripe. That is mostly due to my last tip on picking a good tomato--the smell. This is a huge part of identifying a good one. It should have a sweet woodsy smell to it and be very aromatic. A tomato with no smell will have no flavor. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>How to Store a Fresh Tomato\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ciframe width=\"560\" height=\"315\" src=\"http://www.youtube.com/embed/O3HhE4rNZOA\" frameborder=\"0\" allowfullscreen>\u003c/iframe>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>Do not store tomatoes in the refrigerator.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Store tomatoes on a flat surface, stem-side down.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>Never store tomatoes in the refrigerator. The fridge causes the tomato to dry out, leaving the fruit mealy and tasteless. And really, no one wants that! The reason you store tomatoes stem-side down, on a flat surface, is because the area where the stem was attached is very sensitive. It is in this area that moisture and bacteria can enter the fruit, causing it to rot. Having the stem side of the tomato somewhat flush with a flat surface reduces this. Another option is to simply tape the top of the tomato with some scotch tape. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tomatoes stored outside of the refrigerator--stem-side down--will stay fresh and tasty for about a week. Enjoy!\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "I wanted to share the joy of a good tomato with everyone. Now, a store-bought tomato is never going to taste like it was plucked straight from the vine. But there's no reason it can't be a great tasting tomato! All it takes is the steps outlined in this post. ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/IMG_5485.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/IMG_5485.jpg\" alt=\"Tomatoes on the vine\" title=\"Tomatoes on the vine\" width=\"560\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50005\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of my favorite childhood food memories is picking tomatoes fresh from the vine with my dad. I grew up in Sacramento and we didn't have much of a garden in our backyard but those tomato plants made up for it. My mother did all she could to keep me and my father from harvesting them immediately but to no avail. The moment one was ripe, he and I would make a mad dash out the front door to see who could nab it first. I usually won, or maybe he just let me win. Regardless, I attribute these memories to why the tomato is one of my favorite \u003cdel datetime=\"2012-10-16T06:38:13+00:00\">vegetables\u003c/del> fruits. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My desire to share the joy of a good tomato with everyone was the inspiration for making these How-To videos. Now, a store-bought tomato is never going to taste like it was plucked straight from the vine. But there's no reason it can't be a great tasting tomato! All it takes is the steps I outlined below. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>How to Select a Tomato\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ciframe width=\"560\" height=\"315\" src=\"http://www.youtube.com/embed/q-sTFriAahc?list=PL23C10B854AD91955&hl=en_US\" frameborder=\"0\" allowfullscreen>\u003c/iframe>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>Avoid tomatoes with blemishes or dark spots.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>The tomato should have a good weight for its size, feeling heavy.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>The tomato should be firm, yet soft enough to give into any real pressure.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>The tomato should be very aromatic when you smell it near where the stem was attached.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>You want to avoid tomatoes with blemishes or dark spots on the skin as they can indicate rot throughout the entire fruit. It's not a given but they're best avoided just in case. The reason you want the tomato to feel heavy is that a heavy tomato is going to be a lot juicier. While I suggest in video that the fruit be firm yet soft, you can buy them on the firmer side if you do not plan to use them right away, letting them ripen throughout the week. But this can be a bit tricky as I think it is harder to judge a good tomato when it is under ripe. That is mostly due to my last tip on picking a good tomato--the smell. This is a huge part of identifying a good one. It should have a sweet woodsy smell to it and be very aromatic. A tomato with no smell will have no flavor. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>How to Store a Fresh Tomato\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ciframe width=\"560\" height=\"315\" src=\"http://www.youtube.com/embed/O3HhE4rNZOA\" frameborder=\"0\" allowfullscreen>\u003c/iframe>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>Do not store tomatoes in the refrigerator.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Store tomatoes on a flat surface, stem-side down.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>Never store tomatoes in the refrigerator. The fridge causes the tomato to dry out, leaving the fruit mealy and tasteless. And really, no one wants that! The reason you store tomatoes stem-side down, on a flat surface, is because the area where the stem was attached is very sensitive. It is in this area that moisture and bacteria can enter the fruit, causing it to rot. Having the stem side of the tomato somewhat flush with a flat surface reduces this. Another option is to simply tape the top of the tomato with some scotch tape. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tomatoes stored outside of the refrigerator--stem-side down--will stay fresh and tasty for about a week. Enjoy!\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Onigilly Introduces Updated Japanese Comfort Food to the FiDi ",
"title": "Onigilly Introduces Updated Japanese Comfort Food to the FiDi ",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/lunch-1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/lunch-1.jpg\" alt=\"lunch onigilly\" title=\"lunch onigilly\" width=\"560\" height=\"418\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49850\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>teriyaki chicken, salmon and hijiki(seaweed) onigiri\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lunch-able staples are culturally relative. While I grew up in LA, toting peanut butter or tuna sandwiches to school, in Denmark, my friend Kim brought a special box from home with his \u003cem>smørrebrød\u003c/em>, open-faced rye bread squares topped with liver spread, cheese or chocolate. And everyday in Japan, Koji Kanematsu’s mother made him \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Onigiri\">onigiri\u003c/a>, rice balls stuffed with a pickled plum, a dab of salmon or other filling. These ubiquitous, portable snacks, often wrapped in nori (seaweed), are standard lunch fare for adults as well as children and sold in train stations, convenience stores and specialty shops in every Japanese city.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/Onigiri_at_a_convenience_store_by_typester_in_Kamakura.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/Onigiri_at_a_convenience_store_by_typester_in_Kamakura.jpg\" alt=\"Onigiri at a convenience store\" title=\"Onigiri at a convenience store\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49847\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>rows of onigiri at Japanese convenience store. photo courtesy: typester at Kamakura\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Last month, Koji Kanematsu’s cozy lunch spot on Kearny, \u003ca href=\"http://onigilly.com/\">Onigilly\u003c/a>, had a soft opening to introduce San Franciscans to an updated version of his childhood comfort food, onigiri. The filled rice packets have been enthusiastically welcomed by curious Fi-Di-ers and who’ve been consuming almost 1000 \"onigilly\" a day.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A little explanation of Koji's tweak on the original name: “onigiri” proved challenging for American tongues with its Japanese “r” that’s actually a combination of r, l and d sounds (technically called an \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alveolar_flap\">alveolar flap\u003c/a>) So, Koji morphed the word to “onigilly,” with a more familiar English “l” as in silly, frilly, lily.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/onigilly-Collage.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/onigilly-Collage.jpg\" alt=\"onigilly Collage\" title=\"onigilly Collage\" width=\"560\" height=\"280\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49862\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I first sampled his rice triangles generously topped with eggplant, hijiki and spicy shrimp at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.newpeopleworld.com/eats/\">Cinema Café\u003c/a> in Japantown’s New People building, during a \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/01/12/tasting-tour-uncovers-japantown%E2%80%99s-tempting-secrets/\">tasting tour that I wrote about\u003c/a> for BAB. (Note: I so enjoyed that \u003ca href=\"http://www.edibleexcursions.net/japantown_tour.htm\">Edible Excursions\u003c/a> tour, that I am now one of the EE guides and lead Japantown tasting tours several Saturdays a month).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was eager to visit his new restaurant and try some of his many veggie, meat and seafood toppings. Arriving before noon, it was easy to snag a spot at one of the five tiny tables and munch my lunch as a steady stream of trendy young office workers moved through an orderly line and took their lunches in compostable boxes to go.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/hijiki.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/hijiki.jpg\" alt=\"hijiki\" title=\"hijiki\" width=\"560\" height=\"418\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49851\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>hijiki and shredded carrots\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With 17 choices, it's not easy to narrow it down to a set of three. I picked salmon, teriyaki chicken and hijiki (seaweed with shredded carrots), which came with a salad, edamame and pickled ginger. This is comforting, finger food (except for the salad) with a trio of balanced textures: soft warm rice, crunchy nori (if you eat it right away) and satisfying toppings. Light, healthy and flavorful.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/onigilly-lunch.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/onigilly-lunch.jpg\" alt=\"onigilly lunch\" title=\"onigilly lunch\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49846\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>onigilly topped with snow crab salad, sesame kale and broiled unagi\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Onigilly's menu features traditional Japanese flavored toppings, such as salmon, pickled plum, lotus root and stinky-smelling, but good-for-you-because-it's-fermented \u003cem>natto\u003c/em> (soy beans). Plus a range of non-traditional combos, such as teriyaki tofu, spicy bacon cooked with garlic butter and sesame kale.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Koji has been selling his nori-wrapped rice packets and toppings from his food cart at Off the Grid Fort Mason, Civic Center Farmers Market and other locations since he completed the food incubation program at \u003ca href=\"http://www.lacocinasf.org/\">La Cocina\u003c/a>. Executive Director, Caleb Zigas, explains that Koji’s \"motivation, talent, entrepreneurial spirit and product quality\" won him one of the few spots awarded to men in the program that prioritizes immigrant women. He was also the first Japanese person to go through La Cocina's training. And now, Mariko Grady, a current La Cocina participant, supplies Onigilly with its fermented foods. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Koji is from southern Japan. While in college there he worked in a restaurant for five years, ironically one that focused on pizza, pasta and wine.Then he started working in a tech company and came to the Bay Area on a business trip and predictably fell for our weather, culture and people.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I interviewed him about his rice-ball business and edited his answers for clarity and length.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/koji-and-adachi.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/koji-and-adachi.jpg\" alt=\"koji and adachi\" title=\"koji and adachi\" width=\"560\" height=\"496\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49858\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Koji Kanematsu and chef Adachi Hiroyuki\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>How did you come up with the idea for your business?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>KK: When I moved here 6 years ago, I found it strange that there were sushi restaurants on every block, but the onigiri snacks that we can buy everywhere in Japan were nowhere to be found. The Japanese friends I met here all missed the same taste of home and urged me to start a business to fill this need. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>So did you start with the onigilly the way you make them now?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>KK: No, I started with a traditional Japanese style rice ball and tried it out on my Irish roommate and his American friends. They said it was okay, but they wouldn't eat it because it had too much rice and not enough filling. I got the idea to switch brown rice for the traditional white rice, then asked my friend (and now business partner) Adachi Hiroyuki–-who was executive chef for the Tsunami sushi restaurants--if he had any ideas how to make this onigiri for Americans? Adachi came up with the perfect fusion of elements: more filling placed on the top of the triangle of brown rice and an expanded array of traditional and non-traditional toppings.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>You say that onigiri has a long history. What do you mean?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>KK: Well, they found fossilized rice balls from the Yayoi Period, about 2300 years ago. And in the Middle Ages (1200-1600) samurai used to take onigiri along when they were fighting a war. The traditional filling of \u003cem>ume\u003c/em> pickled plum, helped keep the rice balls fresh. Farmers used to eat the portable snacks too, and office workers--they're the perfect lunch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>(At this point, chef Adachi Hiroyuki joins the conversation). I notice, chef, that your menu is already changing with the seasons.\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>AH: Yes, we're saying goodbye to eggplant and shishito (little peppers) but we'll have new flavors for the fall like chard, kabocha squash, sesame kale, beet greens with jalapeno and miso-roasted fennel.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What are your plans for the future?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>AH: As soon as we get our liquor license, we plan to stay open later and add an izakaya bar, with beer, sake, shochu (a barley vodka) and appetizers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>KK: Eventually, we want to open 500 Onigilly restaurants around the country.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>AH: We want to educate people about how to eat healthy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>KK: And expand into serving onigilly for school lunches.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://onigilly.com/\">Onigilly\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Address:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://goo.gl/maps/DN3Ay\">Map\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n343 Kearny Street (at Pine)\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94108\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Phone:\u003c/strong> 415-671-4706\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Facebook:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/onigilly\">Onigilly\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Twitter:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/onigilly\">@onigilly\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/lunch-1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/lunch-1.jpg\" alt=\"lunch onigilly\" title=\"lunch onigilly\" width=\"560\" height=\"418\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49850\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>teriyaki chicken, salmon and hijiki(seaweed) onigiri\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lunch-able staples are culturally relative. While I grew up in LA, toting peanut butter or tuna sandwiches to school, in Denmark, my friend Kim brought a special box from home with his \u003cem>smørrebrød\u003c/em>, open-faced rye bread squares topped with liver spread, cheese or chocolate. And everyday in Japan, Koji Kanematsu’s mother made him \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Onigiri\">onigiri\u003c/a>, rice balls stuffed with a pickled plum, a dab of salmon or other filling. These ubiquitous, portable snacks, often wrapped in nori (seaweed), are standard lunch fare for adults as well as children and sold in train stations, convenience stores and specialty shops in every Japanese city.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/Onigiri_at_a_convenience_store_by_typester_in_Kamakura.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/Onigiri_at_a_convenience_store_by_typester_in_Kamakura.jpg\" alt=\"Onigiri at a convenience store\" title=\"Onigiri at a convenience store\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49847\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>rows of onigiri at Japanese convenience store. photo courtesy: typester at Kamakura\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Last month, Koji Kanematsu’s cozy lunch spot on Kearny, \u003ca href=\"http://onigilly.com/\">Onigilly\u003c/a>, had a soft opening to introduce San Franciscans to an updated version of his childhood comfort food, onigiri. The filled rice packets have been enthusiastically welcomed by curious Fi-Di-ers and who’ve been consuming almost 1000 \"onigilly\" a day.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A little explanation of Koji's tweak on the original name: “onigiri” proved challenging for American tongues with its Japanese “r” that’s actually a combination of r, l and d sounds (technically called an \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alveolar_flap\">alveolar flap\u003c/a>) So, Koji morphed the word to “onigilly,” with a more familiar English “l” as in silly, frilly, lily.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/onigilly-Collage.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/onigilly-Collage.jpg\" alt=\"onigilly Collage\" title=\"onigilly Collage\" width=\"560\" height=\"280\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49862\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I first sampled his rice triangles generously topped with eggplant, hijiki and spicy shrimp at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.newpeopleworld.com/eats/\">Cinema Café\u003c/a> in Japantown’s New People building, during a \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/01/12/tasting-tour-uncovers-japantown%E2%80%99s-tempting-secrets/\">tasting tour that I wrote about\u003c/a> for BAB. (Note: I so enjoyed that \u003ca href=\"http://www.edibleexcursions.net/japantown_tour.htm\">Edible Excursions\u003c/a> tour, that I am now one of the EE guides and lead Japantown tasting tours several Saturdays a month).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was eager to visit his new restaurant and try some of his many veggie, meat and seafood toppings. Arriving before noon, it was easy to snag a spot at one of the five tiny tables and munch my lunch as a steady stream of trendy young office workers moved through an orderly line and took their lunches in compostable boxes to go.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/hijiki.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/hijiki.jpg\" alt=\"hijiki\" title=\"hijiki\" width=\"560\" height=\"418\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49851\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>hijiki and shredded carrots\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With 17 choices, it's not easy to narrow it down to a set of three. I picked salmon, teriyaki chicken and hijiki (seaweed with shredded carrots), which came with a salad, edamame and pickled ginger. This is comforting, finger food (except for the salad) with a trio of balanced textures: soft warm rice, crunchy nori (if you eat it right away) and satisfying toppings. Light, healthy and flavorful.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/onigilly-lunch.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/onigilly-lunch.jpg\" alt=\"onigilly lunch\" title=\"onigilly lunch\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49846\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>onigilly topped with snow crab salad, sesame kale and broiled unagi\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Onigilly's menu features traditional Japanese flavored toppings, such as salmon, pickled plum, lotus root and stinky-smelling, but good-for-you-because-it's-fermented \u003cem>natto\u003c/em> (soy beans). Plus a range of non-traditional combos, such as teriyaki tofu, spicy bacon cooked with garlic butter and sesame kale.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Koji has been selling his nori-wrapped rice packets and toppings from his food cart at Off the Grid Fort Mason, Civic Center Farmers Market and other locations since he completed the food incubation program at \u003ca href=\"http://www.lacocinasf.org/\">La Cocina\u003c/a>. Executive Director, Caleb Zigas, explains that Koji’s \"motivation, talent, entrepreneurial spirit and product quality\" won him one of the few spots awarded to men in the program that prioritizes immigrant women. He was also the first Japanese person to go through La Cocina's training. And now, Mariko Grady, a current La Cocina participant, supplies Onigilly with its fermented foods. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Koji is from southern Japan. While in college there he worked in a restaurant for five years, ironically one that focused on pizza, pasta and wine.Then he started working in a tech company and came to the Bay Area on a business trip and predictably fell for our weather, culture and people.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I interviewed him about his rice-ball business and edited his answers for clarity and length.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/koji-and-adachi.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/koji-and-adachi.jpg\" alt=\"koji and adachi\" title=\"koji and adachi\" width=\"560\" height=\"496\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49858\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Koji Kanematsu and chef Adachi Hiroyuki\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>How did you come up with the idea for your business?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>KK: When I moved here 6 years ago, I found it strange that there were sushi restaurants on every block, but the onigiri snacks that we can buy everywhere in Japan were nowhere to be found. The Japanese friends I met here all missed the same taste of home and urged me to start a business to fill this need. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>So did you start with the onigilly the way you make them now?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>KK: No, I started with a traditional Japanese style rice ball and tried it out on my Irish roommate and his American friends. They said it was okay, but they wouldn't eat it because it had too much rice and not enough filling. I got the idea to switch brown rice for the traditional white rice, then asked my friend (and now business partner) Adachi Hiroyuki–-who was executive chef for the Tsunami sushi restaurants--if he had any ideas how to make this onigiri for Americans? Adachi came up with the perfect fusion of elements: more filling placed on the top of the triangle of brown rice and an expanded array of traditional and non-traditional toppings.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>You say that onigiri has a long history. What do you mean?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>KK: Well, they found fossilized rice balls from the Yayoi Period, about 2300 years ago. And in the Middle Ages (1200-1600) samurai used to take onigiri along when they were fighting a war. The traditional filling of \u003cem>ume\u003c/em> pickled plum, helped keep the rice balls fresh. Farmers used to eat the portable snacks too, and office workers--they're the perfect lunch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>(At this point, chef Adachi Hiroyuki joins the conversation). I notice, chef, that your menu is already changing with the seasons.\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>AH: Yes, we're saying goodbye to eggplant and shishito (little peppers) but we'll have new flavors for the fall like chard, kabocha squash, sesame kale, beet greens with jalapeno and miso-roasted fennel.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What are your plans for the future?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>AH: As soon as we get our liquor license, we plan to stay open later and add an izakaya bar, with beer, sake, shochu (a barley vodka) and appetizers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>KK: Eventually, we want to open 500 Onigilly restaurants around the country.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>AH: We want to educate people about how to eat healthy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>KK: And expand into serving onigilly for school lunches.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://onigilly.com/\">Onigilly\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Address:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://goo.gl/maps/DN3Ay\">Map\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n343 Kearny Street (at Pine)\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94108\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Phone:\u003c/strong> 415-671-4706\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Facebook:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/onigilly\">Onigilly\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Twitter:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/onigilly\">@onigilly\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Cast Iron Skillet Cooking: Chicken Marbella recipe",
"title": "Cast Iron Skillet Cooking: Chicken Marbella recipe",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/2012-09-skillet-chicken-marbella-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-49op.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/2012-09-skillet-chicken-marbella-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-49op.jpg\" alt=\"Chicken Marbella over Couscous\" title=\"Chicken Marbella over Couscous\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49828\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cooking in my cast iron skillet…a new chicken recipe to get excited about…sometimes it's about the simple pleasures in life.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I stumbled upon this recipe for \u003ca href=\"http://chezus.com/2011/12/02/chicken-marabella/\">Chicken Marbella\u003c/a>, I knew I’d love it. The combination of \u003cstrong>olives, prunes, and capers\u003c/strong> caught my eye, and indeed, it tasted just lovely. Little did I know, many before me have discovered the wonders of this dish. It is apparently one of the most popular recipes in the \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2009/08/31/dining/31lukins.html\">Silver Palate Cookbook\u003c/a>. Well, where have I been?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Not to worry, I’m making up for lost time and have taken to making my version of \u003cstrong>Chicken Marbella\u003c/strong> frequently. What changes have I made? Well, mainly:\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>I \u003cstrong>don’t marinate\u003c/strong> the chicken (who has the time or forethought to marinate these days?)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>I use my trusty \u003cstrong>skillet\u003c/strong> instead of a Dutch oven\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>I give the chicken a \u003cstrong>good sear\u003c/strong> in said skillet before it goes into the oven\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>And, I add slivers of \u003cstrong>onion\u003c/strong> on top which melt down and caramelize beautifully as the chicken cooks.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>I stole the idea for adding the onion from another favorite skillet chicken recipe -- \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/04/20/tuscan-style-baked-chicken/\">this Tuscan-style number\u003c/a>. In fact, this Chicken Marbella is like the Spanish Costa del Sol bestie to my Tuscan Chicken. Totally different flavor profiles, but similar preparations, and both are utterly delicious.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/2012-09-skillet-chicken-marbella-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-5.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/2012-09-skillet-chicken-marbella-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-5.jpg\" alt=\"Chicken Marbella ingredients\" title=\"Chicken Marbella ingredients\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49820\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Each ingredient really plays its part here. The prunes impart a rich, smoky sweetness that is just spot on. \u003cstrong>Note to self:\u003c/strong> prunes are really under appreciated. They are seriously tasty and not to be relegated to strictly “practical” applications.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The olives and capers bring great briny saltiness to the party. Lemon and garlic play well with chicken, we already know this. Slices of onion, as I mentioned before, transform into gorgeously caramelized loveliness. Rosemary, oregano, and bay leaves fragrance the dish. Red wine vinegar punches up the acidity. Brown sugar makes everything better. And white wine deglazes all the yummy bits and creates the sauce with zero effort on your end.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here’s a play-by-play of how this dish comes together:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/2012-09-skillet-chicken-marbella-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-12.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/2012-09-skillet-chicken-marbella-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-12.jpg\" alt=\"brown the chicken\" title=\"brown the chicken\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49822\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>First things first, rinse and thoroughly pat dry the chicken pieces. Season both sides with salt and pepper, then sear the chicken in the skillet, skin-side down, until golden brown.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/2012-09-skillet-chicken-marbella-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-17.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/2012-09-skillet-chicken-marbella-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-17.jpg\" alt=\"skillet chicken\" title=\"skillet chicken\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49823\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Flip the chicken pieces skin-side up, and add the garlic, prunes, capers, olives, bay leaves, oregano, and rosemary, distributing everything evenly. Juice the lemon quarters over everything and tuck them between the pieces of chicken. It should look good enough to eat at this point, but wait, there’s more!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/2012-09-skillet-chicken-marbella-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-19.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/2012-09-skillet-chicken-marbella-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-19.jpg\" alt=\"scatter onions\" title=\"scatter onions\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49824\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Scatter the onion slivers on top.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/2012-09-skillet-chicken-marbella-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-21.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/2012-09-skillet-chicken-marbella-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-21.jpg\" alt=\"add red wine vinegar and evoo\" title=\"add red wine vinegar and evoo\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49825\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Drizzle the olive oil and red wine vinegar over everything.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/2012-09-skillet-chicken-marbella-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-30.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/2012-09-skillet-chicken-marbella-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-30.jpg\" alt=\"add brown sugar\" title=\"add brown sugar\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49826\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sprinkle on the brown sugar and slide the skillet into the oven for 30 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/2012-09-skillet-chicken-marbella-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-8.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/2012-09-skillet-chicken-marbella-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-8.jpg\" alt=\"add white wine\" title=\"add white wine\" width=\"333\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49821\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Take the skillet out, and pour the white wine over the chicken (no stirring necessary). I used this \u003ca href=\"http://www.14hands.com/wines/hot_to_trot_white_blend\">white blend\u003c/a> of Chardonnay, Pinot Gris & Viognier from \u003ca href=\"http://www.14hands.com/\">14 Hands\u003c/a>, a Washington State winery. Cover the skillet with foil and put it back in the oven for 1 1/2 hours, until it looks like this…\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/2012-09-skillet-chicken-marbella-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-32.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/2012-09-skillet-chicken-marbella-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-32.jpg\" alt=\"chicken marbella\" title=\"chicken marbella\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49827\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Top with some finely chopped parsley for hit of something green and fresh, and enjoy! I love serving this with \u003cstrong>couscous\u003c/strong> cooked in \u003cstrong>fresh orange juice\u003c/strong> instead of water. I add some \u003cstrong>orange zest\u003c/strong> to it, and a handful of roughly chopped \u003cstrong>green olives\u003c/strong>. It’s a perfect side dish to go with this Chicken Marbella if I do say so myself.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Skillet Chicken Marbella\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>An updated take on this classic chicken dish, you fall in love with the sweet, salty, subtly smoky combination of prunes, olives, and capers all over again with this skillet version.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Prep Time:\u003c/strong> 20 minutes\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Cook Time:\u003c/strong> 2 hours\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Total Time:\u003c/strong> 2 hours, 20 minutes\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Yield:\u003c/strong> 4 servings\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>4 chicken quarters (legs and thighs)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 medium onion\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>6 garlic cloves\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 cup pitted prunes, cut in half\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 cup capers\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 cup pitted Spanish green olives\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3 bay leaves\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 tablespoons dried oregano\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3 sprigs rosemary\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 lemon, quartered\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 cup olive oil\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 cup red wine vinegar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 cup brown sugar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 cup white wine (whatever you plan on drinking with this meal will do just fine)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>A handful of fresh parsley, finely chopped\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>Preheat oven to 325 F.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Rinse and thoroughly pat dry the chicken pieces. Season both sides with a sprinkling of Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper. Pour a little olive oil in a skillet (or Dutch oven) and place over high heat. Pan-sear the chicken skin-side down, until golden brown.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>While the chicken is browning, cut up the onion into half-moon slivers, and peel and smash the garlic.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Flip the chicken pieces. To the skillet, add the garlic, prunes, capers, olives, bay leaves, oregano, and rosemary, distributing everything evenly. Juice the lemon quarters over everything (catching and discarding any seeds) and tuck them between the pieces of chicken. Scatter the onion slivers on top.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Mix together the olive oil and red wine vinegar. Drizzle this over everything. Evenly sprinkle the brown sugar over the top and slide the skillet/Dutch oven into the oven for 30 minutes.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Pour the white wine over the chicken (no stirring necessary), and cover with foil or lid. Continue cooking for 1 1/2 hours.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Remove from the oven. Top with parsley and serve.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "An updated take on this classic chicken dish, you fall in love with the sweet, salty, subtly smoky combination of prunes, olives, and capers all over again with this skillet version.",
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"description": "An updated take on this classic chicken dish, you fall in love with the sweet, salty, subtly smoky combination of prunes, olives, and capers all over again with this skillet version.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/2012-09-skillet-chicken-marbella-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-49op.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/2012-09-skillet-chicken-marbella-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-49op.jpg\" alt=\"Chicken Marbella over Couscous\" title=\"Chicken Marbella over Couscous\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49828\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cooking in my cast iron skillet…a new chicken recipe to get excited about…sometimes it's about the simple pleasures in life.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I stumbled upon this recipe for \u003ca href=\"http://chezus.com/2011/12/02/chicken-marabella/\">Chicken Marbella\u003c/a>, I knew I’d love it. The combination of \u003cstrong>olives, prunes, and capers\u003c/strong> caught my eye, and indeed, it tasted just lovely. Little did I know, many before me have discovered the wonders of this dish. It is apparently one of the most popular recipes in the \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2009/08/31/dining/31lukins.html\">Silver Palate Cookbook\u003c/a>. Well, where have I been?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Not to worry, I’m making up for lost time and have taken to making my version of \u003cstrong>Chicken Marbella\u003c/strong> frequently. What changes have I made? Well, mainly:\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>I \u003cstrong>don’t marinate\u003c/strong> the chicken (who has the time or forethought to marinate these days?)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>I use my trusty \u003cstrong>skillet\u003c/strong> instead of a Dutch oven\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>I give the chicken a \u003cstrong>good sear\u003c/strong> in said skillet before it goes into the oven\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>And, I add slivers of \u003cstrong>onion\u003c/strong> on top which melt down and caramelize beautifully as the chicken cooks.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>I stole the idea for adding the onion from another favorite skillet chicken recipe -- \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/04/20/tuscan-style-baked-chicken/\">this Tuscan-style number\u003c/a>. In fact, this Chicken Marbella is like the Spanish Costa del Sol bestie to my Tuscan Chicken. Totally different flavor profiles, but similar preparations, and both are utterly delicious.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/2012-09-skillet-chicken-marbella-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-5.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/2012-09-skillet-chicken-marbella-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-5.jpg\" alt=\"Chicken Marbella ingredients\" title=\"Chicken Marbella ingredients\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49820\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Each ingredient really plays its part here. The prunes impart a rich, smoky sweetness that is just spot on. \u003cstrong>Note to self:\u003c/strong> prunes are really under appreciated. They are seriously tasty and not to be relegated to strictly “practical” applications.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The olives and capers bring great briny saltiness to the party. Lemon and garlic play well with chicken, we already know this. Slices of onion, as I mentioned before, transform into gorgeously caramelized loveliness. Rosemary, oregano, and bay leaves fragrance the dish. Red wine vinegar punches up the acidity. Brown sugar makes everything better. And white wine deglazes all the yummy bits and creates the sauce with zero effort on your end.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here’s a play-by-play of how this dish comes together:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/2012-09-skillet-chicken-marbella-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-12.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/2012-09-skillet-chicken-marbella-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-12.jpg\" alt=\"brown the chicken\" title=\"brown the chicken\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49822\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>First things first, rinse and thoroughly pat dry the chicken pieces. Season both sides with salt and pepper, then sear the chicken in the skillet, skin-side down, until golden brown.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/2012-09-skillet-chicken-marbella-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-17.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/2012-09-skillet-chicken-marbella-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-17.jpg\" alt=\"skillet chicken\" title=\"skillet chicken\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49823\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Flip the chicken pieces skin-side up, and add the garlic, prunes, capers, olives, bay leaves, oregano, and rosemary, distributing everything evenly. Juice the lemon quarters over everything and tuck them between the pieces of chicken. It should look good enough to eat at this point, but wait, there’s more!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/2012-09-skillet-chicken-marbella-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-19.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/2012-09-skillet-chicken-marbella-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-19.jpg\" alt=\"scatter onions\" title=\"scatter onions\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49824\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Scatter the onion slivers on top.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/2012-09-skillet-chicken-marbella-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-21.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/2012-09-skillet-chicken-marbella-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-21.jpg\" alt=\"add red wine vinegar and evoo\" title=\"add red wine vinegar and evoo\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49825\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Drizzle the olive oil and red wine vinegar over everything.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/2012-09-skillet-chicken-marbella-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-30.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/2012-09-skillet-chicken-marbella-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-30.jpg\" alt=\"add brown sugar\" title=\"add brown sugar\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49826\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sprinkle on the brown sugar and slide the skillet into the oven for 30 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/2012-09-skillet-chicken-marbella-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-8.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/2012-09-skillet-chicken-marbella-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-8.jpg\" alt=\"add white wine\" title=\"add white wine\" width=\"333\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49821\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Take the skillet out, and pour the white wine over the chicken (no stirring necessary). I used this \u003ca href=\"http://www.14hands.com/wines/hot_to_trot_white_blend\">white blend\u003c/a> of Chardonnay, Pinot Gris & Viognier from \u003ca href=\"http://www.14hands.com/\">14 Hands\u003c/a>, a Washington State winery. Cover the skillet with foil and put it back in the oven for 1 1/2 hours, until it looks like this…\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/2012-09-skillet-chicken-marbella-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-32.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/2012-09-skillet-chicken-marbella-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-32.jpg\" alt=\"chicken marbella\" title=\"chicken marbella\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49827\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Top with some finely chopped parsley for hit of something green and fresh, and enjoy! I love serving this with \u003cstrong>couscous\u003c/strong> cooked in \u003cstrong>fresh orange juice\u003c/strong> instead of water. I add some \u003cstrong>orange zest\u003c/strong> to it, and a handful of roughly chopped \u003cstrong>green olives\u003c/strong>. It’s a perfect side dish to go with this Chicken Marbella if I do say so myself.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Skillet Chicken Marbella\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>An updated take on this classic chicken dish, you fall in love with the sweet, salty, subtly smoky combination of prunes, olives, and capers all over again with this skillet version.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Prep Time:\u003c/strong> 20 minutes\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Cook Time:\u003c/strong> 2 hours\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Total Time:\u003c/strong> 2 hours, 20 minutes\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Yield:\u003c/strong> 4 servings\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>4 chicken quarters (legs and thighs)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 medium onion\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>6 garlic cloves\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 cup pitted prunes, cut in half\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 cup capers\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 cup pitted Spanish green olives\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3 bay leaves\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 tablespoons dried oregano\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3 sprigs rosemary\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 lemon, quartered\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 cup olive oil\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 cup red wine vinegar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 cup brown sugar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 cup white wine (whatever you plan on drinking with this meal will do just fine)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>A handful of fresh parsley, finely chopped\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>Preheat oven to 325 F.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Rinse and thoroughly pat dry the chicken pieces. Season both sides with a sprinkling of Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper. Pour a little olive oil in a skillet (or Dutch oven) and place over high heat. Pan-sear the chicken skin-side down, until golden brown.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>While the chicken is browning, cut up the onion into half-moon slivers, and peel and smash the garlic.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Flip the chicken pieces. To the skillet, add the garlic, prunes, capers, olives, bay leaves, oregano, and rosemary, distributing everything evenly. Juice the lemon quarters over everything (catching and discarding any seeds) and tuck them between the pieces of chicken. Scatter the onion slivers on top.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Mix together the olive oil and red wine vinegar. Drizzle this over everything. Evenly sprinkle the brown sugar over the top and slide the skillet/Dutch oven into the oven for 30 minutes.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Pour the white wine over the chicken (no stirring necessary), and cover with foil or lid. Continue cooking for 1 1/2 hours.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Remove from the oven. Top with parsley and serve.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Q&A with Chef Adam Dulye of Abbot’s Cellar",
"title": "Q&A with Chef Adam Dulye of Abbot’s Cellar",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/AdamDulye.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49537\" title=\"Adam Dulye. Photo: Melissa Fuller\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/AdamDulye.jpg\" alt=\"Adam Dulye. Photo: Melissa Fuller\" width=\"560\" height=\"373\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Adam Dulye. Photo: Melissa Fuller\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When \u003ca href=\"http://abbotscellar.com/\">Abbot’s Cellar\u003c/a> opened this summer in the Mission, the initial buzz was that it may become something more than a gastropub. The restaurant is considered a local launch for Adam Dulye, 34, who is the chef-owner and hails from Kansas City. Dulye is a a Culinary Institute of America graduate who spent time studying charcuterie and butchery in France after graduation. He first worked at \u003ca href=\"http://monkskettle.com/\">Monk’s Kettle\u003c/a>, which is the sister restaurant to Abbot’s Cellar. Before moving to the Bay Area, Dulye cooked in craft-beer centric locations in Boulder, Vail, and Portland, Oregon, where he caught the eye of the Brewers Association. In 2009, Dulye cooked at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.durango.org/press-room/press-releases.aspx?mode=detail&id=2009-02-04\">James Beard House\u003c/a>, at one of the foundation’s first beer and food pairing dinners.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dulye is the Culinary Consultant for the Brewers Association, and has spearheaded the culinary menus of several events including \u003ca href=\"http://www.savorcraftbeer.com/beer-food/chefs/\">SAVOR\u003c/a>: An American Craft Beer and Food Experience, the Farm to Table Pavilion at the Great American Beer Festival, and the \u003ca href=\"http://www.worldbeercup.org/\">2012 World Beer Cup Dinner\u003c/a>. In 2009 and 2010, Dulye worked with the Colorado Brewers Guild to showcase beer and food pairings at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodandwine.com/classic\">Aspen Food & Wine Classic\u003c/a>. The Noe Valley/Bernal Heights resident is currently consulting with author Janet Fletcher on a book highlighting artisan cheese and craft beer. October's tasting menu at Abbot's Cellar includes pairings like hand cut pasta with brown butter Chanterelle mushrooms, brocolli di ciccio and organic porter from \u003ca href=\"http://www.eelriverbrewing.com/\">Eel River Brewing\u003c/a>; bone marrow roasted root vegetables, chervil pistou with \u003ca href=\"http://www.firestonebeer.com/beers/products/dba-double-barrel-ale\">Double Barrel ale from Firestone Walker\u003c/a>; and for dessert a sour cream cheesecake, Marcona almond shortbread and honey gastrique paired with \u003ca href=\"http://www.moonlightbrewing.com/\">Moonlight Brewing’s\u003c/a> Change of Heart.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bay Area Bites caught up with Dulye via email and in person interviews and his comments have been edited for length and clarity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What do you hope to accomplish at Abbot’s Cellar as Chef-Owner? Is a Michelin star a goal?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Dulye:\u003c/strong> Getting the Michelin star was a one-liner that I used when we opened. The goal here is to keep the conversation going for beer and food, and push Abbot’s to be more than a dining establishment. For diners, that hopefully means that it’s more of an experience and that you leave with more than a full belly. If you focus on that, a lot of times, things like a Michelin star can follow.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/AbbotsCellar-pork-chop.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49538\" title=\"Abbots Cellar oven-roasted pork chop, caraway spaetzle, peaches and tarragon. Photo courtesy of Christian Albertson\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/AbbotsCellar-pork-chop.jpg\" alt=\"Abbots Cellar oven-roasted pork chop, caraway spaetzle, peaches and tarragon. Photo courtesy of Christian Albertson\" width=\"400\" height=\"602\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Abbot’s Cellar oven-roasted pork chop, caraway spaetzle, peaches and tarragon--a popular mainstay of the menu. Photo courtesy of Christian Albertson\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What are you most passionate about, food-wise? \u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Dulye:\u003c/strong> Right now one of the areas I am focusing on is highlighting the integrity of simple ingredients. I want to highlight what the farmer believes is ready to pick and how they want it presented. Take carrots for example, they can be prepared in a way that will allow them to shine in the dish, but they have to be harvested at the perfect time. Carrots are always around but when the farmer says, \"Do this with it now,\" then I want to highlight what they grow and not necessarily what I did with it. We took a batch of carrots from Heirloom Organics farm and did them on a plate: puree, roasted, pickled, and raw. I was seeing where the sugar level and texture were, and doing the puree was kind of a natural thing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Where do you get your information about food? What’s on your nightstand reading pile?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Dulye:\u003c/strong> It’s all over the place. On my nightstand table right now is the \u003ca href=\"http://www.rivercottage.net/shop/\">River Cottage\u003c/a> book. Oddly if you scrolled through my phone, the texts that go back and forth between chefs would make a pretty good read. Right now I’m texting a lot of brewers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My good friend Kyle in Colorado sent over a picture of a one pound Matsutake. He started mushroom foraging, and I did foraging when I lived there.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What are your thoughts on the state of beer pairing and food in the Bay Area? Where are we with knowledge and appreciation? \u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Dulye: \u003c/strong>Craft beer in general is on such a growth explosion. Beer pairing right now in the Bay Area is on its way up and there are some really great chefs and restaurants doing some great pairings. With anything else you have to search through all the places doing pairings and find who is really doing a great job and who is just putting a beer on the menu for the name of the beer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As far as knowledge goes, the Bay Area is at a bit of a plateau. Not in a bad way. There is so much to learn and the basics have been hit. Most people know about IPA, Pale Ale, Stout, and Porter, etc. But now we have sours being the \"it\" beer in the Bay right now and the knowledge there is pretty low. Collaboration beers and new versions of old styles are coming out all the time and it is a challenge for everyone to keep up. Sours and IPAs range and people think, \"that’s what it’s supposed to taste like.\" There’s so much polar difference from IPA to IPA. It’s a good thing and a bad thing. People want to learn more about beer. But it’s challenging because people think IPA is the most popular beer style and you have to like it. If you don’t like it, they think it’s not for you.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Appreciation for beer in the Bay Area is at an all-time high. The amount of people who have had their \"a-ha\" that's what beer can do moment is growing and people are seeking to expand their knowledge. Honestly, the best beer you have is the one right in front of you.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: How did you get into pairing beer with food?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Dulye:\u003c/strong> I grew up in Kansas City, where \u003ca href=\"http://www.boulevard.com/wp-content/themes/boulevard960/ageverify.php?r=http://www.boulevard.com\">Boulevard\u003c/a> is the pillar of brewing. I was doing a lot of different wine, beer and spirits dinners when I was younger. When I was in Vail I did an event called Taste of Vail that was up on top of Vail and a 3000 person event. I was going to lick the snow wall, and thought, this is painfully bright and rather warm. There was one brewer there and we ended up talking and having a few beers. Being in Colorado, it kind of rolled into doing other things with breweries there and I just kept doing it. It was fun. And I enjoyed the people I was working with and how open people are. That openness is unique to brewing and everyone’s willing to share what they know. That’s a rare thing in a competitive industry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What are some of your favorite food and drink spots in the Bay Area?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Dulye:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://www.rockbarsf.com/\">Rock Bar\u003c/a> for a Manhattan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I get coffee every morning at \u003ca href=\"http://www.caffefioresf.com/\">Cafe Fiore\u003c/a> on 24th Street. That counts, right? Coffee is a Bay Area \"drink\" now.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.rangesf.com/\">Range\u003c/a> is a great neighbor to have for both food and cocktails. I tend to drink cocktails and wine when I go out more often than beer. I want to try the experience that they are offering.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Do you have any foods that are a guilty pleasure?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Dulye:\u003c/strong> Peanut butter cookies. Well, just cookies. Every now and then a warm cookie is a relaxing thing.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Mary Ladd interviews Adam Dulye, who is the Chef-Owner of Abbot's Cellar, which is a beer-centric fine dining outpost in the Mission. Dulye shares his thoughts on why he wants to keep the conversation going with diners about beer and food, as well as his favorite spots to eat and drink.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/AdamDulye.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49537\" title=\"Adam Dulye. Photo: Melissa Fuller\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/AdamDulye.jpg\" alt=\"Adam Dulye. Photo: Melissa Fuller\" width=\"560\" height=\"373\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Adam Dulye. Photo: Melissa Fuller\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When \u003ca href=\"http://abbotscellar.com/\">Abbot’s Cellar\u003c/a> opened this summer in the Mission, the initial buzz was that it may become something more than a gastropub. The restaurant is considered a local launch for Adam Dulye, 34, who is the chef-owner and hails from Kansas City. Dulye is a a Culinary Institute of America graduate who spent time studying charcuterie and butchery in France after graduation. He first worked at \u003ca href=\"http://monkskettle.com/\">Monk’s Kettle\u003c/a>, which is the sister restaurant to Abbot’s Cellar. Before moving to the Bay Area, Dulye cooked in craft-beer centric locations in Boulder, Vail, and Portland, Oregon, where he caught the eye of the Brewers Association. In 2009, Dulye cooked at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.durango.org/press-room/press-releases.aspx?mode=detail&id=2009-02-04\">James Beard House\u003c/a>, at one of the foundation’s first beer and food pairing dinners.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dulye is the Culinary Consultant for the Brewers Association, and has spearheaded the culinary menus of several events including \u003ca href=\"http://www.savorcraftbeer.com/beer-food/chefs/\">SAVOR\u003c/a>: An American Craft Beer and Food Experience, the Farm to Table Pavilion at the Great American Beer Festival, and the \u003ca href=\"http://www.worldbeercup.org/\">2012 World Beer Cup Dinner\u003c/a>. In 2009 and 2010, Dulye worked with the Colorado Brewers Guild to showcase beer and food pairings at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodandwine.com/classic\">Aspen Food & Wine Classic\u003c/a>. The Noe Valley/Bernal Heights resident is currently consulting with author Janet Fletcher on a book highlighting artisan cheese and craft beer. October's tasting menu at Abbot's Cellar includes pairings like hand cut pasta with brown butter Chanterelle mushrooms, brocolli di ciccio and organic porter from \u003ca href=\"http://www.eelriverbrewing.com/\">Eel River Brewing\u003c/a>; bone marrow roasted root vegetables, chervil pistou with \u003ca href=\"http://www.firestonebeer.com/beers/products/dba-double-barrel-ale\">Double Barrel ale from Firestone Walker\u003c/a>; and for dessert a sour cream cheesecake, Marcona almond shortbread and honey gastrique paired with \u003ca href=\"http://www.moonlightbrewing.com/\">Moonlight Brewing’s\u003c/a> Change of Heart.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bay Area Bites caught up with Dulye via email and in person interviews and his comments have been edited for length and clarity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What do you hope to accomplish at Abbot’s Cellar as Chef-Owner? Is a Michelin star a goal?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Dulye:\u003c/strong> Getting the Michelin star was a one-liner that I used when we opened. The goal here is to keep the conversation going for beer and food, and push Abbot’s to be more than a dining establishment. For diners, that hopefully means that it’s more of an experience and that you leave with more than a full belly. If you focus on that, a lot of times, things like a Michelin star can follow.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/AbbotsCellar-pork-chop.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49538\" title=\"Abbots Cellar oven-roasted pork chop, caraway spaetzle, peaches and tarragon. Photo courtesy of Christian Albertson\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/AbbotsCellar-pork-chop.jpg\" alt=\"Abbots Cellar oven-roasted pork chop, caraway spaetzle, peaches and tarragon. Photo courtesy of Christian Albertson\" width=\"400\" height=\"602\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Abbot’s Cellar oven-roasted pork chop, caraway spaetzle, peaches and tarragon--a popular mainstay of the menu. Photo courtesy of Christian Albertson\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What are you most passionate about, food-wise? \u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Dulye:\u003c/strong> Right now one of the areas I am focusing on is highlighting the integrity of simple ingredients. I want to highlight what the farmer believes is ready to pick and how they want it presented. Take carrots for example, they can be prepared in a way that will allow them to shine in the dish, but they have to be harvested at the perfect time. Carrots are always around but when the farmer says, \"Do this with it now,\" then I want to highlight what they grow and not necessarily what I did with it. We took a batch of carrots from Heirloom Organics farm and did them on a plate: puree, roasted, pickled, and raw. I was seeing where the sugar level and texture were, and doing the puree was kind of a natural thing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Where do you get your information about food? What’s on your nightstand reading pile?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Dulye:\u003c/strong> It’s all over the place. On my nightstand table right now is the \u003ca href=\"http://www.rivercottage.net/shop/\">River Cottage\u003c/a> book. Oddly if you scrolled through my phone, the texts that go back and forth between chefs would make a pretty good read. Right now I’m texting a lot of brewers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My good friend Kyle in Colorado sent over a picture of a one pound Matsutake. He started mushroom foraging, and I did foraging when I lived there.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What are your thoughts on the state of beer pairing and food in the Bay Area? Where are we with knowledge and appreciation? \u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Dulye: \u003c/strong>Craft beer in general is on such a growth explosion. Beer pairing right now in the Bay Area is on its way up and there are some really great chefs and restaurants doing some great pairings. With anything else you have to search through all the places doing pairings and find who is really doing a great job and who is just putting a beer on the menu for the name of the beer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As far as knowledge goes, the Bay Area is at a bit of a plateau. Not in a bad way. There is so much to learn and the basics have been hit. Most people know about IPA, Pale Ale, Stout, and Porter, etc. But now we have sours being the \"it\" beer in the Bay right now and the knowledge there is pretty low. Collaboration beers and new versions of old styles are coming out all the time and it is a challenge for everyone to keep up. Sours and IPAs range and people think, \"that’s what it’s supposed to taste like.\" There’s so much polar difference from IPA to IPA. It’s a good thing and a bad thing. People want to learn more about beer. But it’s challenging because people think IPA is the most popular beer style and you have to like it. If you don’t like it, they think it’s not for you.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Appreciation for beer in the Bay Area is at an all-time high. The amount of people who have had their \"a-ha\" that's what beer can do moment is growing and people are seeking to expand their knowledge. Honestly, the best beer you have is the one right in front of you.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: How did you get into pairing beer with food?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Dulye:\u003c/strong> I grew up in Kansas City, where \u003ca href=\"http://www.boulevard.com/wp-content/themes/boulevard960/ageverify.php?r=http://www.boulevard.com\">Boulevard\u003c/a> is the pillar of brewing. I was doing a lot of different wine, beer and spirits dinners when I was younger. When I was in Vail I did an event called Taste of Vail that was up on top of Vail and a 3000 person event. I was going to lick the snow wall, and thought, this is painfully bright and rather warm. There was one brewer there and we ended up talking and having a few beers. Being in Colorado, it kind of rolled into doing other things with breweries there and I just kept doing it. It was fun. And I enjoyed the people I was working with and how open people are. That openness is unique to brewing and everyone’s willing to share what they know. That’s a rare thing in a competitive industry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What are some of your favorite food and drink spots in the Bay Area?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Dulye:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://www.rockbarsf.com/\">Rock Bar\u003c/a> for a Manhattan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I get coffee every morning at \u003ca href=\"http://www.caffefioresf.com/\">Cafe Fiore\u003c/a> on 24th Street. That counts, right? Coffee is a Bay Area \"drink\" now.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.rangesf.com/\">Range\u003c/a> is a great neighbor to have for both food and cocktails. I tend to drink cocktails and wine when I go out more often than beer. I want to try the experience that they are offering.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"info": "What kind of no sabo word is Hyphenación? For us, it’s about living within a hyphenation. Like being a third-gen Mexican-American from the Texas border now living that Bay Area Chicano life. Like Xorje! Each week we bring together a couple of hyphenated Latinos to talk all about personal life choices: family, careers, relationships, belonging … everything is on the table. ",
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"info": "Our flagship program, helmed by Kai Ryssdal, examines what the day in money delivered, through stories, conversations, newsworthy numbers and more. Updated Monday through Friday at about 3:30 p.m. PT.",
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"mindshift": {
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"info": "The MindShift podcast explores the innovations in education that are shaping how kids learn. Hosts Ki Sung and Katrina Schwartz introduce listeners to educators, researchers, parents and students who are developing effective ways to improve how kids learn. We cover topics like how fed-up administrators are developing surprising tactics to deal with classroom disruptions; how listening to podcasts are helping kids develop reading skills; the consequences of overparenting; and why interdisciplinary learning can engage students on all ends of the traditional achievement spectrum. This podcast is part of the MindShift education site, a division of KQED News. KQED is an NPR/PBS member station based in San Francisco. You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>",
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"order": 12
},
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM1NzY0NjAwNDI5",
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"info": "For decades, the process for how police police themselves has been inconsistent – if not opaque. In some states, like California, these proceedings were completely hidden. After a new police transparency law unsealed scores of internal affairs files, our reporters set out to examine these cases and the shadow world of police discipline. On Our Watch brings listeners into the rooms where officers are questioned and witnesses are interrogated to find out who this system is really protecting. Is it the officers, or the public they've sworn to serve?",
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"info": "Our weekly podcast explores how the media 'sausage' is made, casts an incisive eye on fluctuations in the marketplace of ideas, and examines threats to the freedom of information and expression in America and abroad. For one hour a week, the show tries to lift the veil from the process of \"making media,\" especially news media, because it's through that lens that we see the world and the world sees us",
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},
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},
"perspectives": {
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"order": 14
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"info": "The economy explained. Imagine you could call up a friend and say, Meet me at the bar and tell me what's going on with the economy. Now imagine that's actually a fun evening.",
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"politicalbreakdown": {
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"title": "Political Breakdown",
"tagline": "Politics from a personal perspective",
"info": "Political Breakdown is a new series that explores the political intersection of California and the nation. Each week hosts Scott Shafer and Marisa Lagos are joined with a new special guest to unpack politics -- with personality — and offer an insider’s glimpse at how politics happens.",
"airtime": "THU 6:30pm-7pm",
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"possible": {
"id": "possible",
"title": "Possible",
"info": "Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.",
"airtime": "SUN 2pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Possible-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.possible.fm/",
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"source": "Possible"
},
"link": "/radio/program/possible",
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"spotify": "https://open.spotify.com/show/730YpdUSNlMyPQwNnyjp4k"
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},
"pri-the-world": {
"id": "pri-the-world",
"title": "PRI's The World: Latest Edition",
"info": "Each weekday, host Marco Werman and his team of producers bring you the world's most interesting stories in an hour of radio that reminds us just how small our planet really is.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 2pm-3pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/The-World-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
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},
"radiolab": {
"id": "radiolab",
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