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"content": "\u003cp>Growing up all over the U.S. as a second-generation child of Korean immigrants, food was one way my parents remained connected to their native country and introduced its culture to me and my brother. As we moved from Illinois to Virginia to Tennessee, we grew to love deep-dish pizza, Chicago-style hot dogs, barbecue and other staples of regional American cuisine. But we didn't go out to eat very much as my father worked long hours as a doctor, so occasional outings to restaurants were special trips saved for the weekends.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82447\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/image-e1400825857450.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/image-e1400825857450-290x198.jpg\" alt=\"Adding oil to seaweed before roasting\" width=\"290\" height=\"198\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-82447\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Adding oil to seaweed before roasting\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>My brother and I were enthralled with American junk food, as McDonald's, potato chips and doughnuts seemed \"exotic\" to our palates. While our refrigerator was filled mostly with homemade Korean dishes that my mom had prepared -- like large stinky jars of \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kimchi\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>kimchee\u003c/em>\u003c/a> (we even had a separate refrigerator in the garage that exclusively stored our supply as the smell was so overpowering) -- we, of course, wanted all of the goodies we'd see our friends eating at school. So we would eagerly go to the supermarket with our mom and pester her to buy us Doritos or Pringles and Ding Dongs and Coca-Cola to go along with our lunchtime Wonder Bread peanut butter and jelly sandwiches.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Dried seaweed\u003c/strong>, or \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gim_(food)\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>kim\u003c/em>\u003c/a> (pronounced keem), was one healthy treat that we'd accept as a substitute for Ruffles or Cheetos. My mom would rub the large dried sheets with vegetable oil (usually sesame oil, sometimes canola), using the back of the spoon to spread a thin, even coating on one side. After sprinkling a little bit of salt on top, she'd take each sheet with a pair of chopsticks and gently toast it in a skillet or wave it directly over a gas flame on the stovetop. Flipped regularly to heat both sides, they'd be done when the sheets became translucent and small holes slowly appeared about a minute later. Then they'd be cut up into squares to be eaten plain or with rice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82431\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 893px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/rice-e1400823284568.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/rice-e1400823284568.jpg\" alt=\"Waiting for the rice...\" width=\"893\" height=\"560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82431\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Eagerly waiting for the rice to cook...\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Now \u003cstrong>rice\u003c/strong> was the staple food of my childhood. Whenever I'd come home from school, I'd look to see if the bright orange indicator light on our Zojirushi rice cooker was on (and it usually was), because that meant there was some delicious white Kokuho Rose rice warming inside ready for me to eat. One of the easiest and simplest snacks my brother and I would make was an improvised \"rice carbonara\": we'd crack a raw egg into a bowl of rice, add a splash of soy sauce and quickly swish the whole mixture together so that the heat would cook the egg (although most of the time it'd stay kind of slimy, but we didn't care.) Then my brother and I would park ourselves in front of the TV to watch cartoons, our bowls of sloppy rice porridge perched on our laps.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While my mom was the head chef of the household, my dad would take a few guest stints in the kitchen when his busy schedule permitted him to tie on an apron. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82429\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/omurice-e1400823368389.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/omurice-e1400823368389-290x217.jpg\" alt=\"omurice\" width=\"290\" height=\"217\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-82429\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">\"Omurice\" with delicious swirls of ketchup\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>While he didn't have a lot of dishes in his repertoire, he was an expert at preparing omelette rice, or \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Omurice\" target=\"_blank\">omurice\u003c/a>, \u003c/em>which was introduced by the Japanese to Koreans during the occupation of their country from the late 1800's through \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Korea_under_Japanese_rule\" target=\"_blank\">World War II\u003c/a>. Taking a bag of frozen vegetables (usually peas, corn, diced carrots and green beans, which I'd pick out in disgust and pile up on the side of my plate), he \u003cspan style=\"color: #545454\">sautéed\u003c/span> them in butter before adding cups of cold rice and soy sauce. Then he'd fry a thin omelette that he'd drape on top of the fried rice and decorate with swirls of ketchup.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If we were lucky, he'd add cubes of fried \u003cstrong>Spam\u003c/strong>. Many Koreans (and Asians in general) are huge fans of this canned meat; they were given their first taste of this \"luxury\" foodstuff by \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2014/01/27/world/asia/in-south-korea-spam-is-the-stuff-gifts-are-made-of.html\" target=\"_blank\">American GI's during the Korean War\u003c/a>. My mom would do absolutely wondrous things with Spam. She'd dip slices in egg, then pan-fry them until they were brown and crispy. Or she'd wrap them up with rice and seaweed, \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spam_musubi\" target=\"_blank\">musubi-style\u003c/a>. And for several memorable years, she'd incorporate it into our Thanksgiving dinner -- which was a hybrid of Korean and American dishes -- by making a Spam-cornbread stuffing for our turkey.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82432\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 747px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/spam-e1400823424612.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/spam-e1400823424612.jpg\" alt=\"spam musubi\" width=\"747\" height=\"560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82432\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Spam musubi\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82433\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/steamedegg-e1400826427934.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/steamedegg-e1400826427934-290x198.jpg\" alt=\"Steamed egg casserole\" width=\"290\" height=\"198\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-82433\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Steamed egg casserole\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Another tasty dish my dad would make for us -- although admittedly, my maternal grandmother's version was the best -- was steamed egg casserole, or \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gyeran_jjim\" target=\"_blank\">g\u003c/a>\u003ci style=\"color: #252525\">\u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gyeran_jjim\" target=\"_blank\">yeran jjim\u003c/a>.\u003c/i> He'd crack some eggs in a bowl, beat them until smooth, toss in some chopped scallions and salt, then set the bowl inside a covered pot filled with water. Once the water was brought to boil, the steam would cook the eggs and transform them into a soft custard that we'd scoop onto our rice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My dad's go-to 5-minute breakfast, which he'd slurp down before rushing out the door to work (or if he came home late and wanted a hot meal), was a bowl of instant ramen. He and my mom would eat spicy versions like \u003ca href=\"http://koreanfood.about.com/od/soupsandstews/r/Spicy-Korean-chinese-Seafood-Soup-jjampong.htm\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>jjampong\u003c/em> ramen\u003c/a>, which they'd make even spicier by adding big spoonfuls of \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gochujang\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>gochujang\u003c/em>\u003c/a>. But as my brother and I weren't really fond of spicy food until our early twenties (I know, we were late bloomers), we'd gravitate towards \u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sapporo_Ichiban\" target=\"_blank\">Sapporo Ichiban ramen\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>. While waiting for the water to boil, we'd nibble on the corner of the cracker-like cake of uncooked noodles. Then we'd throw the rest of the noodles into the pot and watch them slowly fan out into the water before adding the flavor packets filled with powdered spices. And if we were really hungry, we'd add a raw egg and let it simmer in the broth until it was cooked through. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82430\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/ramen-e1400823922579.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/ramen-e1400823922579-290x212.jpg\" alt=\"Mmm...Sapporo Ichiban Ramen!\" width=\"290\" height=\"212\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-82430\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mmm...Sapporo Ichiban Ramen!\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Once we ate up the noodles, we'd finish off the soup with rice. For some odd reason, I'd love eating my ramen with a big glass of orange juice; it was a magical sweet-and-salty combination.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I still have a deep fondness for many of these foods to this day. My husband and I have our own rice cooker sitting on our kitchen counter and seaweed and eggs are regularly stocked in our pantry. But the allure of junk food has faded over time and my adoration for Chicken McNuggets is now a long-distant memory, replaced by hankerings for \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bibimbap\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>bibim bap\u003c/em>\u003c/a> or \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kimchi_jjigae\" target=\"_blank\">kimchee jigae\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>I just might make a nostalgic batch of Spam fried rice in the near future, however, just for old times' sake.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Growing up all over the U.S. as a second-generation child of Korean immigrants, food was one way my parents remained connected to their native country and introduced its culture to me and my brother. As we moved from Illinois to Virginia to Tennessee, we grew to love deep-dish pizza, Chicago-style hot dogs, barbecue and other staples of regional American cuisine. But we didn't go out to eat very much as my father worked long hours as a doctor, so occasional outings to restaurants were special trips saved for the weekends.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82447\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/image-e1400825857450.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/image-e1400825857450-290x198.jpg\" alt=\"Adding oil to seaweed before roasting\" width=\"290\" height=\"198\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-82447\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Adding oil to seaweed before roasting\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>My brother and I were enthralled with American junk food, as McDonald's, potato chips and doughnuts seemed \"exotic\" to our palates. While our refrigerator was filled mostly with homemade Korean dishes that my mom had prepared -- like large stinky jars of \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kimchi\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>kimchee\u003c/em>\u003c/a> (we even had a separate refrigerator in the garage that exclusively stored our supply as the smell was so overpowering) -- we, of course, wanted all of the goodies we'd see our friends eating at school. So we would eagerly go to the supermarket with our mom and pester her to buy us Doritos or Pringles and Ding Dongs and Coca-Cola to go along with our lunchtime Wonder Bread peanut butter and jelly sandwiches.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Dried seaweed\u003c/strong>, or \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gim_(food)\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>kim\u003c/em>\u003c/a> (pronounced keem), was one healthy treat that we'd accept as a substitute for Ruffles or Cheetos. My mom would rub the large dried sheets with vegetable oil (usually sesame oil, sometimes canola), using the back of the spoon to spread a thin, even coating on one side. After sprinkling a little bit of salt on top, she'd take each sheet with a pair of chopsticks and gently toast it in a skillet or wave it directly over a gas flame on the stovetop. Flipped regularly to heat both sides, they'd be done when the sheets became translucent and small holes slowly appeared about a minute later. Then they'd be cut up into squares to be eaten plain or with rice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82431\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 893px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/rice-e1400823284568.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/rice-e1400823284568.jpg\" alt=\"Waiting for the rice...\" width=\"893\" height=\"560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82431\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Eagerly waiting for the rice to cook...\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Now \u003cstrong>rice\u003c/strong> was the staple food of my childhood. Whenever I'd come home from school, I'd look to see if the bright orange indicator light on our Zojirushi rice cooker was on (and it usually was), because that meant there was some delicious white Kokuho Rose rice warming inside ready for me to eat. One of the easiest and simplest snacks my brother and I would make was an improvised \"rice carbonara\": we'd crack a raw egg into a bowl of rice, add a splash of soy sauce and quickly swish the whole mixture together so that the heat would cook the egg (although most of the time it'd stay kind of slimy, but we didn't care.) Then my brother and I would park ourselves in front of the TV to watch cartoons, our bowls of sloppy rice porridge perched on our laps.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While my mom was the head chef of the household, my dad would take a few guest stints in the kitchen when his busy schedule permitted him to tie on an apron. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82429\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/omurice-e1400823368389.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/omurice-e1400823368389-290x217.jpg\" alt=\"omurice\" width=\"290\" height=\"217\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-82429\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">\"Omurice\" with delicious swirls of ketchup\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>While he didn't have a lot of dishes in his repertoire, he was an expert at preparing omelette rice, or \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Omurice\" target=\"_blank\">omurice\u003c/a>, \u003c/em>which was introduced by the Japanese to Koreans during the occupation of their country from the late 1800's through \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Korea_under_Japanese_rule\" target=\"_blank\">World War II\u003c/a>. Taking a bag of frozen vegetables (usually peas, corn, diced carrots and green beans, which I'd pick out in disgust and pile up on the side of my plate), he \u003cspan style=\"color: #545454\">sautéed\u003c/span> them in butter before adding cups of cold rice and soy sauce. Then he'd fry a thin omelette that he'd drape on top of the fried rice and decorate with swirls of ketchup.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If we were lucky, he'd add cubes of fried \u003cstrong>Spam\u003c/strong>. Many Koreans (and Asians in general) are huge fans of this canned meat; they were given their first taste of this \"luxury\" foodstuff by \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2014/01/27/world/asia/in-south-korea-spam-is-the-stuff-gifts-are-made-of.html\" target=\"_blank\">American GI's during the Korean War\u003c/a>. My mom would do absolutely wondrous things with Spam. She'd dip slices in egg, then pan-fry them until they were brown and crispy. Or she'd wrap them up with rice and seaweed, \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spam_musubi\" target=\"_blank\">musubi-style\u003c/a>. And for several memorable years, she'd incorporate it into our Thanksgiving dinner -- which was a hybrid of Korean and American dishes -- by making a Spam-cornbread stuffing for our turkey.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82432\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 747px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/spam-e1400823424612.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/spam-e1400823424612.jpg\" alt=\"spam musubi\" width=\"747\" height=\"560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82432\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Spam musubi\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82433\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/steamedegg-e1400826427934.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/steamedegg-e1400826427934-290x198.jpg\" alt=\"Steamed egg casserole\" width=\"290\" height=\"198\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-82433\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Steamed egg casserole\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Another tasty dish my dad would make for us -- although admittedly, my maternal grandmother's version was the best -- was steamed egg casserole, or \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gyeran_jjim\" target=\"_blank\">g\u003c/a>\u003ci style=\"color: #252525\">\u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gyeran_jjim\" target=\"_blank\">yeran jjim\u003c/a>.\u003c/i> He'd crack some eggs in a bowl, beat them until smooth, toss in some chopped scallions and salt, then set the bowl inside a covered pot filled with water. Once the water was brought to boil, the steam would cook the eggs and transform them into a soft custard that we'd scoop onto our rice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My dad's go-to 5-minute breakfast, which he'd slurp down before rushing out the door to work (or if he came home late and wanted a hot meal), was a bowl of instant ramen. He and my mom would eat spicy versions like \u003ca href=\"http://koreanfood.about.com/od/soupsandstews/r/Spicy-Korean-chinese-Seafood-Soup-jjampong.htm\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>jjampong\u003c/em> ramen\u003c/a>, which they'd make even spicier by adding big spoonfuls of \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gochujang\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>gochujang\u003c/em>\u003c/a>. But as my brother and I weren't really fond of spicy food until our early twenties (I know, we were late bloomers), we'd gravitate towards \u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sapporo_Ichiban\" target=\"_blank\">Sapporo Ichiban ramen\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>. While waiting for the water to boil, we'd nibble on the corner of the cracker-like cake of uncooked noodles. Then we'd throw the rest of the noodles into the pot and watch them slowly fan out into the water before adding the flavor packets filled with powdered spices. And if we were really hungry, we'd add a raw egg and let it simmer in the broth until it was cooked through. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82430\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/ramen-e1400823922579.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/ramen-e1400823922579-290x212.jpg\" alt=\"Mmm...Sapporo Ichiban Ramen!\" width=\"290\" height=\"212\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-82430\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mmm...Sapporo Ichiban Ramen!\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Once we ate up the noodles, we'd finish off the soup with rice. For some odd reason, I'd love eating my ramen with a big glass of orange juice; it was a magical sweet-and-salty combination.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I still have a deep fondness for many of these foods to this day. My husband and I have our own rice cooker sitting on our kitchen counter and seaweed and eggs are regularly stocked in our pantry. But the allure of junk food has faded over time and my adoration for Chicken McNuggets is now a long-distant memory, replaced by hankerings for \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bibimbap\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>bibim bap\u003c/em>\u003c/a> or \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kimchi_jjigae\" target=\"_blank\">kimchee jigae\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>I just might make a nostalgic batch of Spam fried rice in the near future, however, just for old times' sake.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Beer Gardens Abound in Oakland: Lost and Found Has Opened Its Doors in Uptown",
"title": "Beer Gardens Abound in Oakland: Lost and Found Has Opened Its Doors in Uptown",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/lostandfound13-e1400998569828.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/lostandfound13-e1400998569828.jpg\" alt=\"Lost and Found\" width=\"640\" height=\"359\" class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-82526\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Summer is upon us, and there's no shortage of outdoor venues to enjoy the warm weather -- especially with the surging influx of beer gardens cropping up in the East Bay. Uptown's \u003ca href=\"http://www.lostandfound510.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Lost and Found\u003c/a> is the latest addition to the Oakland scene (and check out my recent \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2014/05/12/5-bites-suds-and-savory-sausage-in-oakland-and-berkeley/\" target=\"_blank\">beer and sausage\u003c/a> round up for more options.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>From the owners of the music and art lounge \u003ca href=\"http://oaklandlayover.com/\" target=\"_blank\">The Layover\u003c/a>, husband-and-wife team Christi Vaughn and Tim Martinez debuted the renovated 9,000 sq. foot building and patio (that once housed a U.S. Citizenship and Immigration application support center) in mid-April. The airy indoor space has several communal tables and two adjacent bars for patrons, while the sprawling outdoor patio is a literal beer garden that's decorated with flowers and plants maintained \u003ca href=\"http://insidescoopsf.sfgate.com/blog/2014/04/18/lost-found-beer-garden-set-to-open-in-uptown/\" target=\"_blank\">by graduates from a gardening program at San Quentin\u003c/a>. There's numerous cafe and picnic tables as well as cozy nooks that are perfect for kicking back and relaxing in the casual setting. And for customers in a more playful mood, there's also a ping pong table and bean bag toss for folks to enjoy. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/lostandfound01.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/lostandfound01.jpg\" alt=\"Lost and Found\" width=\"1000\" height=\"561\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-82514\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[gallery type=\"slideshow\" link=\"file\" ids=\"82517,82519,82523,82516,82515,82525\"]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lost and Found has 20 beers on draft -- many of which are local offerings, like the \u003ca href=\"http://www.101northbeer.com/heroine-india-pale-ale/\" target=\"_blank\">101 North Heroine\u003c/a> IPA from Petaluma ($6) -- although they're currently limited to just beer and wine. (Head next door to \u003ca href=\"http://www.hutchoakland.com/\" target=\"_blank\">The Hutch\u003c/a> if you're searching for Southern food, whiskeys and cocktails.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[gallery type=\"slideshow\" link=\"file\" ids=\"82527,82518,82524\"]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chef Dennis Yadroff (whose previous stints include \u003ca href=\"http://www.havenoakland.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Haven\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.sweetwoodruffsf.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Sweet Woodruff\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://fuseboxoakland.com/\" target=\"_blank\">FuseBox\u003c/a>) has created an eclectic menu with global influences. Kimchi deviled eggs with green garlic are an Asian fusion take on an American classic ($5), as are the light, crispy instant ramen funnel cakes or fried \"Cheetos\" ($4). The \u003cem>Bahía de Cochinos\u003c/em>, or \"Bay of Pigs\" sandwich, is a nod to Cuban sandwiches with soy-miso braised pork, pickled \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Giardiniera\" target=\"_blank\">giardiniera\u003c/a>\u003c/em> and mustard piled on soft loaves of \u003ca href=\"http://www.firebrandartisanbreads.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Firebrand\u003c/a> ciabatta ($12). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[gallery type=\"slideshow\" link=\"file\" ids=\"82528,82529,82530\"]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If a recent busy Friday night is any indication of its future, Lost and Found seems destined to become another popular al fresco spot with locals. I'll certainly be back to try more of their offerings in the coming months. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://www.lostandfound510.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Lost and Found\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n2040 Telegraph Avenue (btwn. 20th & 21st Streets), Oakland [\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/maps/0FcAG\" target=\"_blank\">map\u003c/a>]\u003cbr>\nPhone: (510) 763-2040\u003cbr>\nHours: Tues.-Thurs. 11:30AM-10PM; Fri.-Sat. 11:30AM-12PM; Sun. 11:30AM-10PM; Closed Mondays\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/LostANDFound510\" target=\"_blank\">Lost and Found \u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/lostandfound13-e1400998569828.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/lostandfound13-e1400998569828.jpg\" alt=\"Lost and Found\" width=\"640\" height=\"359\" class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-82526\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Summer is upon us, and there's no shortage of outdoor venues to enjoy the warm weather -- especially with the surging influx of beer gardens cropping up in the East Bay. Uptown's \u003ca href=\"http://www.lostandfound510.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Lost and Found\u003c/a> is the latest addition to the Oakland scene (and check out my recent \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2014/05/12/5-bites-suds-and-savory-sausage-in-oakland-and-berkeley/\" target=\"_blank\">beer and sausage\u003c/a> round up for more options.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>From the owners of the music and art lounge \u003ca href=\"http://oaklandlayover.com/\" target=\"_blank\">The Layover\u003c/a>, husband-and-wife team Christi Vaughn and Tim Martinez debuted the renovated 9,000 sq. foot building and patio (that once housed a U.S. Citizenship and Immigration application support center) in mid-April. The airy indoor space has several communal tables and two adjacent bars for patrons, while the sprawling outdoor patio is a literal beer garden that's decorated with flowers and plants maintained \u003ca href=\"http://insidescoopsf.sfgate.com/blog/2014/04/18/lost-found-beer-garden-set-to-open-in-uptown/\" target=\"_blank\">by graduates from a gardening program at San Quentin\u003c/a>. There's numerous cafe and picnic tables as well as cozy nooks that are perfect for kicking back and relaxing in the casual setting. And for customers in a more playful mood, there's also a ping pong table and bean bag toss for folks to enjoy. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/lostandfound01.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/lostandfound01.jpg\" alt=\"Lost and Found\" width=\"1000\" height=\"561\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-82514\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lost and Found has 20 beers on draft -- many of which are local offerings, like the \u003ca href=\"http://www.101northbeer.com/heroine-india-pale-ale/\" target=\"_blank\">101 North Heroine\u003c/a> IPA from Petaluma ($6) -- although they're currently limited to just beer and wine. (Head next door to \u003ca href=\"http://www.hutchoakland.com/\" target=\"_blank\">The Hutch\u003c/a> if you're searching for Southern food, whiskeys and cocktails.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chef Dennis Yadroff (whose previous stints include \u003ca href=\"http://www.havenoakland.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Haven\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.sweetwoodruffsf.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Sweet Woodruff\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://fuseboxoakland.com/\" target=\"_blank\">FuseBox\u003c/a>) has created an eclectic menu with global influences. Kimchi deviled eggs with green garlic are an Asian fusion take on an American classic ($5), as are the light, crispy instant ramen funnel cakes or fried \"Cheetos\" ($4). The \u003cem>Bahía de Cochinos\u003c/em>, or \"Bay of Pigs\" sandwich, is a nod to Cuban sandwiches with soy-miso braised pork, pickled \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Giardiniera\" target=\"_blank\">giardiniera\u003c/a>\u003c/em> and mustard piled on soft loaves of \u003ca href=\"http://www.firebrandartisanbreads.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Firebrand\u003c/a> ciabatta ($12). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If a recent busy Friday night is any indication of its future, Lost and Found seems destined to become another popular al fresco spot with locals. I'll certainly be back to try more of their offerings in the coming months. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://www.lostandfound510.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Lost and Found\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n2040 Telegraph Avenue (btwn. 20th & 21st Streets), Oakland [\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/maps/0FcAG\" target=\"_blank\">map\u003c/a>]\u003cbr>\nPhone: (510) 763-2040\u003cbr>\nHours: Tues.-Thurs. 11:30AM-10PM; Fri.-Sat. 11:30AM-12PM; Sun. 11:30AM-10PM; Closed Mondays\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/LostANDFound510\" target=\"_blank\">Lost and Found \u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Hot Eats: The Commissary & Chino Open ",
"title": "Hot Eats: The Commissary & Chino Open ",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82557\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 682px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/Commissary-Portraits-16.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-large wp-image-82557\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/Commissary-Portraits-16-682x1024.jpg\" alt=\"Chefs Reylon Agustin, Robbie Lewis and Traci Des Jardins inside The Commissary Kitchen. Photo: Aubrie Pick\" width=\"682\" height=\"1024\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chefs Reylon Agustin, Robbie Lewis and Traci Des Jardins inside The Commissary Kitchen. Photo: Aubrie Pick\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>With so many hot new food projects it can be hard to keep track of them all and this month is especially buzz-y. Here are fresh updates including one from chef Traci Des Jardins, \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/09/18/qa-with-traci-des-jardins-happy-15th-birthday-jardiniere-restaurant/\" target=\"_blank\">who is no stranger to Bay Area Bites\u003c/a>. Her new restaurant, \u003ca href=\"http://www.presidio.gov/food/Pages/Commissary.aspx\" target=\"_blank\">The Commissary\u003c/a>, opened this week in a restored building that once housed barracks. This eatery is being run in conjunction with \u003ca href=\"http://www.presidio.gov/Pages/default.aspx\" target=\"_blank\">the Presidio Trust\u003c/a> and Bon Appetit Management Company, and serves up more Spanish flavors than Des Jardins' other spots: \u003ca href=\"http://www.jardiniere.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Jardinière Restaurant\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.mijitasf.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Mijita\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.publichousesf.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Public House\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.ritzcarlton.com/en/Properties/LakeTahoe/Dining/manzanita/Default.htm?wbc_purpose=Basic\" target=\"_blank\">Manzanita\u003c/a>. Des Jardins is in the Commissary kitchen right now, but once things settle down kitchen duties will go to executive chefs Reylon Agustin and Robbie Lewis, pictured above. You may want to call ahead since the hours during the soft opening are varied.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82558\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/Commissary-Food-002.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-82558\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/Commissary-Food-002.jpg\" alt=\"Cheese with quince paste and Marcona almonds at The Commissary. Photo: Aubrie Pick\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1500\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cheese with quince paste and Marcona almonds at The Commissary. Photo: Aubrie Pick\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>I caught up with Des Jardins at a preview event while plates of fingerling potato with chorizo and aioli came out of the kitchen, followed by beautiful and tasty sardines with fava beans, radish and garlic. A hearty cheese board was also on offer and other guests who were taking in the airy and open space included Craig Middleton of the Presidio Trust, photographer Frankie Frankeny, Susie and Mark Buell, Liz Einbinder, James Stolich (Cook with James), Jennifer Roy, Joe Brown (his bread from Marla Bakery is used), and Culinary Consultant Laiko Bahrs. The chef's comments have been edited for content and clarity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82559\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/Commissary-Food-029.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-82559\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/Commissary-Food-029.jpg\" alt=\"Fava beans at The Commissary. Photo: Aubrie Pick\" width=\"1000\" height=\"666\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fava beans at The Commissary. Photo: Aubrie Pick\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites:\u003c/strong> How's the opening going?\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Des Jardins:\u003c/strong> It's always crazy. You know how it is. I'll be here through it all.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites:\u003c/strong> What are some of your favorite dishes and what's the menu like?\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Des Jardins:\u003c/strong> It's very improvisational and will change. We're getting seafood that's rated well by the \u003ca href=\"http://www.seafoodwatch.org/cr/seafoodwatch.aspx\" target=\"_blank\">Monterey Seafood Watch\u003c/a> and is local, like sardines in escabeche. We do some of our own curing here. There's also grilled squid and garbanzo beans with fennel and aioli; striped bass, clams and toasted almond picada; as well as roasted chicken, liver toast, Marcona almonds and dates.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82560\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 720px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/chino.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-82560\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/chino.jpg\" alt=\"Joe Hargrave inside Chino during current construction, art work by Drew Kelly. Photo: Chino\" width=\"720\" height=\"540\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Joe Hargrave inside Chino during current construction, art work by Drew Kelly. Photo: Chino\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The wait for Chino (which is Spanish for Chinese), a modern Chinese spot from the folks at \u003ca href=\"http://tacolicious.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Tacolicious\u003c/a>, is almost over. Chino, which is still under construction, has been eagerly anticipated because it means a new place in the Mission District to eat steamed buns known as baos, noodles, “grab pancakes” of the zhōng zhuā bǐng (蔥抓餅) variety, dumplings and other small plates, with or without adult beverages. \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/10/22/alembics-danny-louie-talks-cocktails-creativity-and-shares-a-seasonal-drink-recipe/\" target=\"_blank\">Danny Louie\u003c/a> had a hand in helping create the bar program, and drinks of interest include the Shanghai Buck (Pampero aniversario rum, ginger, bitters & lime) and Chinatown Iced Tea (Baijiu, almond milk, passion fruit, Lipton tea and lemon). Chino will open this Wednesday, May 28 in a space that for years housed a tapas eatery called Andalu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82561\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2736px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/IMG_1906-e1401129415958.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-82561\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/IMG_1906-e1401129415958.jpg\" alt=\"Bao de chicharon pork belly bun. Photo: Chino\" width=\"2736\" height=\"3648\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bao de chicharon pork belly bun. Photo: Chino\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Joe Hargrave came up with the idea for the casual Chinese spot with his wife, Sara Deseran, who is a \u003ca href=\"http://www.modernluxury.com/san-francisco\" target=\"_blank\">San Francisco Magazine\u003c/a> editor and food writer. The menu was crafted with an assist from chef Telmo Faria (who has long been associated with Tacolicious) and initial work was done by chef Brandon Jew, who is no longer on the project after a friendly parting. Chino started as a pop-up at the Ferry Building and Hargrave traveled to some fun spots for a little R+D before moving into the brick-and-mortar location. Hargrave updated me on what to expect. His comments have been edited for content and clarity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites:\u003c/strong> What dishes can customers look forward to?\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Hargrave:\u003c/strong> It’s a funny concept and not totally different than Tacolicious, which we took a lot of heat for. I have a super love of noodles and dumplings and you can go to a few places in the Avenues, but overall it's just not prevalent and available here. Sara wrote \u003ca href=\"http://books.google.com/books/about/Asian_vegetables.html?id=Rq5QAQAAIAAJ\" target=\"_blank\">a book 12 years ago about Asian vegetables\u003c/a>, and it's a topic that she really knows a lot about. We're going to have vegetables and cocktails along with baos and Dan Dan noodles that will be authentic, whatever that means. Look for Korean and Japanese flavors. It's not going to be fusion.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites:\u003c/strong> What are the tough parts about opening?\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Hargrave:\u003c/strong> We don’t speak Mandarin, so sourcing ingredients means I have to take a picture, and go to a market in Chinatown, because I don’t have any words. If I go to La Palma for Tacolicious, I can speak Spanish and order 50,000 tortillas. If I go to Chinatown, I am not able to do that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's just amazing, when people tell me “if you’re going to do a Chinese restaurant you have to have a wok and these are the dishes you have to do.” I say no, I don’t have to do a wok station, it’s just not my concept. San Franciscans are very funny about authenticity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82563\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/chino2.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-82563\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/chino2.jpg\" alt=\"Cucumbers all busted up dish. Photo: Chino\" width=\"640\" height=\"640\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cucumbers all busted up dish. Photo: Chino\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>I was in Taipei, Taiwan and there was super mashed-up food showing Japanese influence and lots of fresh seafood. We went to a place called Addiction Aquatic, that has the most amazing fish market. The pork with peanut in spongey white bread is Taiwanese and we're bringing that back.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chairman Bao and \u003ca href=\"http://tastemychina.com/san-francisco/home/275\" target=\"_blank\">M.Y. China\u003c/a> use Peking duck. At Tacolicious we do a taco of the week; the bao is almost replaceable with a tortilla. At \u003ca href=\"http://momofuku.com/toronto/noodle-bar-to/menu/\" target=\"_blank\">Momofuku\u003c/a>, I tried a pastrami bao that was delicious and really good. There is also a Cubano with chile cheese, and pork that was pressed... those things would bug the purists to no end.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://www.presidio.gov/food/Pages/Commissary.aspx\" target=\"_blank\">The Commissary\u003c/a> \u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n101 Montgomery St. (at Sheridan Ave.), San Francisco\u003cbr>\n(415) 561-3600\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/TheCommissarySF\" target=\"_blank\">TheCommissarySF\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/TheCommissarySF\" target=\"_blank\">www.facebook.com/TheCommissarySF\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://chinosf.tumblr.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Chino\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n3198 16th St. (at Guerrero), San Francisco\u003cbr>\n(415) 420-9869\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/SFChino\" target=\"_blank\">SFChino\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/chinorestaurant\" target=\"_blank\">www.facebook.com/chinorestaurant\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Post updated 6/4/14\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Mary Ladd reports on the juiciest restaurant updates from hot new spots: The Commissary from Chef Traci Des Jardins, and Chino from the people behind Tacolicious. ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82557\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 682px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/Commissary-Portraits-16.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-large wp-image-82557\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/Commissary-Portraits-16-682x1024.jpg\" alt=\"Chefs Reylon Agustin, Robbie Lewis and Traci Des Jardins inside The Commissary Kitchen. Photo: Aubrie Pick\" width=\"682\" height=\"1024\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chefs Reylon Agustin, Robbie Lewis and Traci Des Jardins inside The Commissary Kitchen. Photo: Aubrie Pick\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>With so many hot new food projects it can be hard to keep track of them all and this month is especially buzz-y. Here are fresh updates including one from chef Traci Des Jardins, \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/09/18/qa-with-traci-des-jardins-happy-15th-birthday-jardiniere-restaurant/\" target=\"_blank\">who is no stranger to Bay Area Bites\u003c/a>. Her new restaurant, \u003ca href=\"http://www.presidio.gov/food/Pages/Commissary.aspx\" target=\"_blank\">The Commissary\u003c/a>, opened this week in a restored building that once housed barracks. This eatery is being run in conjunction with \u003ca href=\"http://www.presidio.gov/Pages/default.aspx\" target=\"_blank\">the Presidio Trust\u003c/a> and Bon Appetit Management Company, and serves up more Spanish flavors than Des Jardins' other spots: \u003ca href=\"http://www.jardiniere.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Jardinière Restaurant\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.mijitasf.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Mijita\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.publichousesf.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Public House\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.ritzcarlton.com/en/Properties/LakeTahoe/Dining/manzanita/Default.htm?wbc_purpose=Basic\" target=\"_blank\">Manzanita\u003c/a>. Des Jardins is in the Commissary kitchen right now, but once things settle down kitchen duties will go to executive chefs Reylon Agustin and Robbie Lewis, pictured above. You may want to call ahead since the hours during the soft opening are varied.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82558\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/Commissary-Food-002.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-82558\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/Commissary-Food-002.jpg\" alt=\"Cheese with quince paste and Marcona almonds at The Commissary. Photo: Aubrie Pick\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1500\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cheese with quince paste and Marcona almonds at The Commissary. Photo: Aubrie Pick\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>I caught up with Des Jardins at a preview event while plates of fingerling potato with chorizo and aioli came out of the kitchen, followed by beautiful and tasty sardines with fava beans, radish and garlic. A hearty cheese board was also on offer and other guests who were taking in the airy and open space included Craig Middleton of the Presidio Trust, photographer Frankie Frankeny, Susie and Mark Buell, Liz Einbinder, James Stolich (Cook with James), Jennifer Roy, Joe Brown (his bread from Marla Bakery is used), and Culinary Consultant Laiko Bahrs. The chef's comments have been edited for content and clarity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82559\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/Commissary-Food-029.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-82559\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/Commissary-Food-029.jpg\" alt=\"Fava beans at The Commissary. Photo: Aubrie Pick\" width=\"1000\" height=\"666\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fava beans at The Commissary. Photo: Aubrie Pick\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites:\u003c/strong> How's the opening going?\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Des Jardins:\u003c/strong> It's always crazy. You know how it is. I'll be here through it all.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites:\u003c/strong> What are some of your favorite dishes and what's the menu like?\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Des Jardins:\u003c/strong> It's very improvisational and will change. We're getting seafood that's rated well by the \u003ca href=\"http://www.seafoodwatch.org/cr/seafoodwatch.aspx\" target=\"_blank\">Monterey Seafood Watch\u003c/a> and is local, like sardines in escabeche. We do some of our own curing here. There's also grilled squid and garbanzo beans with fennel and aioli; striped bass, clams and toasted almond picada; as well as roasted chicken, liver toast, Marcona almonds and dates.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82560\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 720px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/chino.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-82560\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/chino.jpg\" alt=\"Joe Hargrave inside Chino during current construction, art work by Drew Kelly. Photo: Chino\" width=\"720\" height=\"540\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Joe Hargrave inside Chino during current construction, art work by Drew Kelly. Photo: Chino\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The wait for Chino (which is Spanish for Chinese), a modern Chinese spot from the folks at \u003ca href=\"http://tacolicious.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Tacolicious\u003c/a>, is almost over. Chino, which is still under construction, has been eagerly anticipated because it means a new place in the Mission District to eat steamed buns known as baos, noodles, “grab pancakes” of the zhōng zhuā bǐng (蔥抓餅) variety, dumplings and other small plates, with or without adult beverages. \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/10/22/alembics-danny-louie-talks-cocktails-creativity-and-shares-a-seasonal-drink-recipe/\" target=\"_blank\">Danny Louie\u003c/a> had a hand in helping create the bar program, and drinks of interest include the Shanghai Buck (Pampero aniversario rum, ginger, bitters & lime) and Chinatown Iced Tea (Baijiu, almond milk, passion fruit, Lipton tea and lemon). Chino will open this Wednesday, May 28 in a space that for years housed a tapas eatery called Andalu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82561\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2736px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/IMG_1906-e1401129415958.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-82561\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/IMG_1906-e1401129415958.jpg\" alt=\"Bao de chicharon pork belly bun. Photo: Chino\" width=\"2736\" height=\"3648\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bao de chicharon pork belly bun. Photo: Chino\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Joe Hargrave came up with the idea for the casual Chinese spot with his wife, Sara Deseran, who is a \u003ca href=\"http://www.modernluxury.com/san-francisco\" target=\"_blank\">San Francisco Magazine\u003c/a> editor and food writer. The menu was crafted with an assist from chef Telmo Faria (who has long been associated with Tacolicious) and initial work was done by chef Brandon Jew, who is no longer on the project after a friendly parting. Chino started as a pop-up at the Ferry Building and Hargrave traveled to some fun spots for a little R+D before moving into the brick-and-mortar location. Hargrave updated me on what to expect. His comments have been edited for content and clarity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites:\u003c/strong> What dishes can customers look forward to?\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Hargrave:\u003c/strong> It’s a funny concept and not totally different than Tacolicious, which we took a lot of heat for. I have a super love of noodles and dumplings and you can go to a few places in the Avenues, but overall it's just not prevalent and available here. Sara wrote \u003ca href=\"http://books.google.com/books/about/Asian_vegetables.html?id=Rq5QAQAAIAAJ\" target=\"_blank\">a book 12 years ago about Asian vegetables\u003c/a>, and it's a topic that she really knows a lot about. We're going to have vegetables and cocktails along with baos and Dan Dan noodles that will be authentic, whatever that means. Look for Korean and Japanese flavors. It's not going to be fusion.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites:\u003c/strong> What are the tough parts about opening?\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Hargrave:\u003c/strong> We don’t speak Mandarin, so sourcing ingredients means I have to take a picture, and go to a market in Chinatown, because I don’t have any words. If I go to La Palma for Tacolicious, I can speak Spanish and order 50,000 tortillas. If I go to Chinatown, I am not able to do that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's just amazing, when people tell me “if you’re going to do a Chinese restaurant you have to have a wok and these are the dishes you have to do.” I say no, I don’t have to do a wok station, it’s just not my concept. San Franciscans are very funny about authenticity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82563\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/chino2.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-82563\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/chino2.jpg\" alt=\"Cucumbers all busted up dish. Photo: Chino\" width=\"640\" height=\"640\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cucumbers all busted up dish. Photo: Chino\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>I was in Taipei, Taiwan and there was super mashed-up food showing Japanese influence and lots of fresh seafood. We went to a place called Addiction Aquatic, that has the most amazing fish market. The pork with peanut in spongey white bread is Taiwanese and we're bringing that back.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chairman Bao and \u003ca href=\"http://tastemychina.com/san-francisco/home/275\" target=\"_blank\">M.Y. China\u003c/a> use Peking duck. At Tacolicious we do a taco of the week; the bao is almost replaceable with a tortilla. At \u003ca href=\"http://momofuku.com/toronto/noodle-bar-to/menu/\" target=\"_blank\">Momofuku\u003c/a>, I tried a pastrami bao that was delicious and really good. There is also a Cubano with chile cheese, and pork that was pressed... those things would bug the purists to no end.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://www.presidio.gov/food/Pages/Commissary.aspx\" target=\"_blank\">The Commissary\u003c/a> \u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n101 Montgomery St. (at Sheridan Ave.), San Francisco\u003cbr>\n(415) 561-3600\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/TheCommissarySF\" target=\"_blank\">TheCommissarySF\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/TheCommissarySF\" target=\"_blank\">www.facebook.com/TheCommissarySF\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://chinosf.tumblr.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Chino\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n3198 16th St. (at Guerrero), San Francisco\u003cbr>\n(415) 420-9869\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/SFChino\" target=\"_blank\">SFChino\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/chinorestaurant\" target=\"_blank\">www.facebook.com/chinorestaurant\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "How Memorial Day Started -- and Why It's Now About BBQ",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82493\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003ca href=\"https://www.flickr.com/photos/parksdh/5779951051/in/photolist-4RdWDu-c6SEom-MMevg-c6bPrY-eseRWW-4QvcH8-4SnFw2-4Qzooh-etRx2n-CRCDz-MM42F-eMx3y-4QzpCw-c5Trob-c3ZVF3-c6WXiu-JMhGu-6qk8bY-9NKL5t-4z5xYa-N1W58-MRfas-NkMkx-NQxgW-9PjGyF-9N7w88-eLC88-6qiPGd-cbSXFd-4z9Q9d-c8qGT9-4z5ymX-4z9QQG-96HaY5-MH7oi-4SgbgY-4RCcsH-86iFw6-euAHTz-4z9Qsd-9NagJY-9Ntypa-86EAQ3-9dvQ1g-4RGo5j-9Ncv4x-9Q1LKU-4R1JSr-2woCf8-4RGo6C\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/5779951051_d72d4a3849_z.jpg\" alt=\"Memorial Day at the San Francisco National Cemetery. Photo: Daniel Parks/ Flickr\" width=\"640\" height=\"482\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82493\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Memorial Day at the San Francisco National Cemetery. Photo: Daniel Parks/ Flickr\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Lest ye forget, as you prepare your grills and marinate your meats for the weekend, Memorial Day was not always the summer food holiday it has become.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As opposed to Veterans Day, which honors living veterans, Memorial Day is a time to remember those who have died while in military service. The holiday originally started as Decoration Day, where the graves of soldiers were decorated with flowers and flags. Though President Lyndon Johnson declared Waterloo, NY the official birthplace of Memorial Day the wake of the Civil War, dozens of towns continue to claim that they, in fact, were the originators of the holiday.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's ancestry is so hard to trace -- particularly through to some of our current iterations -- because the custom of decorating tombstones precedes organized holidays. What is certain is that on May 5, 1868 national commander General John Logan declared May 30 Decoration Day, \"designated for the purpose of strewing with flowers, or otherwise decorating the graves of comrades who died in defense of their country during the late rebellion, and whose bodies now lie in almost every city, village and hamlet churchyard in the land.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the first ceremony at Arlington National Cemetery, 5,000 people participated in decorating the graves of fallen soldiers from the Civil War. By the late 1800s, all the northern states recognized Decoration Day. It wasn't until after World War I, when the holiday changed from recognizing Civil War soldiers to honoring all dead military, that the whole of the country participated on May 30 every year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to the \u003ca href=\"http://www.va.gov/opa/speceven/memday/history.asp?utm_source=3birds&utm_medium=Web&utm_campaign=AUBURNVW_Fun+Facts+About+Memorial+Day\" target=\"_blank\">U.S. Department of Veterans Affairs\u003c/a>, it is believed that date was chosen because flowers would be blooming across the country and would make wreaths with which to decorate the graves of fallen soldiers. And, so, for decades Memorial Day on May 30 was simply a day of memorial and remembrance.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But, in 1971, Congress declared Memorial Day a national holiday and passed the Uniform Monday Holiday Act, which moved a handful of holidays -- including the newly nationally-christened Memorial Day -- to the nearest Monday. Today, Memorial Day is celebrated on the last Monday in May. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The change was meant to give federal workers the day off and create a long weekend, presumably to use the extra time in acts of memorial. However, many view the creation of the three-day weekend as the end of what Memorial Day was supposed to be about and the beginning of its decline into pits of barbecue.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a resolution issued by the \u003ca href=\"http://www.legion.org\" target=\"_blank\">American Legion\u003c/a> in 2010, the group bemoaned the fact that many people now use the holiday as a time to celebrate instead of commemorate. The resolution reads: \"The majority of Americans view Memorial Day as a time for relaxation and leisure recreation rather than as a solemn occasion and a time to reflect and pay tribute to the American servicemen and women who sacrificed their lives in defense of our nation.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The resolution went on to call for the holiday to return to its original date of May 30 and for all American institutions to toll their bells for one minute at 11 a.m. Before he died, Hawaii Senator Daniel Inouye, a World War II veteran and Congressional Medal of Honor recipient, also annually introduced legislation calling for a shift of Memorial Day back to May 30. But, the shift in the holiday's date and focus had already taken hold of the nation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Because of the three-day weekend, the (typically) nice weather, and the end of the school year fast approaching for kids, many families prefer to take advantage of the holiday to ring in the summer. Along with 4th of July and Labor Day (which marks the unofficial end of summer), Memorial Day is \u003ca href=\"http://www.hpba.org/consumers/barbecue/grilling-facts-and-figures\" target=\"_blank\">one of the three most popular days for grilling out\u003c/a>. According to \u003ca href=\"http://www.rasmussenreports.com/public_content/lifestyle/holidays/may_2014/64_consider_memorial_day_the_start_of_summer\" target=\"_blank\">a poll by Rasmussen Reports\u003c/a>, 64% of American adults consider Memorial Day the unofficial start of summer, which explains why so many are eager to celebrate the sun and the long weekend with grilling and swimsuits. If we build it, summer will come -- despite the fact that the actual official start of summer is June 21.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In an effort, though, to remember the day's remembrances, people are asked to observe a national moment of remembrance at 3 p.m. and fly flags at half staff until noon. Then, you can get to eating.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you are planning to kick-off the summer, after remembering those who have died in battle, check out the \u003ca href=\"http://www.seriouseats.com/memorial-day\" target=\"_blank\">Serious Eats Memorial Day guide to grilling all things\u003c/a> -- it includes chicken, hamburgers, veggies, pork, seafood, and cocktails. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Or, just relax with your family and appreciate everything and everyone that got you to this point.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82493\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003ca href=\"https://www.flickr.com/photos/parksdh/5779951051/in/photolist-4RdWDu-c6SEom-MMevg-c6bPrY-eseRWW-4QvcH8-4SnFw2-4Qzooh-etRx2n-CRCDz-MM42F-eMx3y-4QzpCw-c5Trob-c3ZVF3-c6WXiu-JMhGu-6qk8bY-9NKL5t-4z5xYa-N1W58-MRfas-NkMkx-NQxgW-9PjGyF-9N7w88-eLC88-6qiPGd-cbSXFd-4z9Q9d-c8qGT9-4z5ymX-4z9QQG-96HaY5-MH7oi-4SgbgY-4RCcsH-86iFw6-euAHTz-4z9Qsd-9NagJY-9Ntypa-86EAQ3-9dvQ1g-4RGo5j-9Ncv4x-9Q1LKU-4R1JSr-2woCf8-4RGo6C\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/5779951051_d72d4a3849_z.jpg\" alt=\"Memorial Day at the San Francisco National Cemetery. Photo: Daniel Parks/ Flickr\" width=\"640\" height=\"482\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82493\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Memorial Day at the San Francisco National Cemetery. Photo: Daniel Parks/ Flickr\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Lest ye forget, as you prepare your grills and marinate your meats for the weekend, Memorial Day was not always the summer food holiday it has become.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As opposed to Veterans Day, which honors living veterans, Memorial Day is a time to remember those who have died while in military service. The holiday originally started as Decoration Day, where the graves of soldiers were decorated with flowers and flags. Though President Lyndon Johnson declared Waterloo, NY the official birthplace of Memorial Day the wake of the Civil War, dozens of towns continue to claim that they, in fact, were the originators of the holiday.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's ancestry is so hard to trace -- particularly through to some of our current iterations -- because the custom of decorating tombstones precedes organized holidays. What is certain is that on May 5, 1868 national commander General John Logan declared May 30 Decoration Day, \"designated for the purpose of strewing with flowers, or otherwise decorating the graves of comrades who died in defense of their country during the late rebellion, and whose bodies now lie in almost every city, village and hamlet churchyard in the land.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the first ceremony at Arlington National Cemetery, 5,000 people participated in decorating the graves of fallen soldiers from the Civil War. By the late 1800s, all the northern states recognized Decoration Day. It wasn't until after World War I, when the holiday changed from recognizing Civil War soldiers to honoring all dead military, that the whole of the country participated on May 30 every year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to the \u003ca href=\"http://www.va.gov/opa/speceven/memday/history.asp?utm_source=3birds&utm_medium=Web&utm_campaign=AUBURNVW_Fun+Facts+About+Memorial+Day\" target=\"_blank\">U.S. Department of Veterans Affairs\u003c/a>, it is believed that date was chosen because flowers would be blooming across the country and would make wreaths with which to decorate the graves of fallen soldiers. And, so, for decades Memorial Day on May 30 was simply a day of memorial and remembrance.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But, in 1971, Congress declared Memorial Day a national holiday and passed the Uniform Monday Holiday Act, which moved a handful of holidays -- including the newly nationally-christened Memorial Day -- to the nearest Monday. Today, Memorial Day is celebrated on the last Monday in May. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The change was meant to give federal workers the day off and create a long weekend, presumably to use the extra time in acts of memorial. However, many view the creation of the three-day weekend as the end of what Memorial Day was supposed to be about and the beginning of its decline into pits of barbecue.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a resolution issued by the \u003ca href=\"http://www.legion.org\" target=\"_blank\">American Legion\u003c/a> in 2010, the group bemoaned the fact that many people now use the holiday as a time to celebrate instead of commemorate. The resolution reads: \"The majority of Americans view Memorial Day as a time for relaxation and leisure recreation rather than as a solemn occasion and a time to reflect and pay tribute to the American servicemen and women who sacrificed their lives in defense of our nation.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The resolution went on to call for the holiday to return to its original date of May 30 and for all American institutions to toll their bells for one minute at 11 a.m. Before he died, Hawaii Senator Daniel Inouye, a World War II veteran and Congressional Medal of Honor recipient, also annually introduced legislation calling for a shift of Memorial Day back to May 30. But, the shift in the holiday's date and focus had already taken hold of the nation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Because of the three-day weekend, the (typically) nice weather, and the end of the school year fast approaching for kids, many families prefer to take advantage of the holiday to ring in the summer. Along with 4th of July and Labor Day (which marks the unofficial end of summer), Memorial Day is \u003ca href=\"http://www.hpba.org/consumers/barbecue/grilling-facts-and-figures\" target=\"_blank\">one of the three most popular days for grilling out\u003c/a>. According to \u003ca href=\"http://www.rasmussenreports.com/public_content/lifestyle/holidays/may_2014/64_consider_memorial_day_the_start_of_summer\" target=\"_blank\">a poll by Rasmussen Reports\u003c/a>, 64% of American adults consider Memorial Day the unofficial start of summer, which explains why so many are eager to celebrate the sun and the long weekend with grilling and swimsuits. If we build it, summer will come -- despite the fact that the actual official start of summer is June 21.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In an effort, though, to remember the day's remembrances, people are asked to observe a national moment of remembrance at 3 p.m. and fly flags at half staff until noon. Then, you can get to eating.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you are planning to kick-off the summer, after remembering those who have died in battle, check out the \u003ca href=\"http://www.seriouseats.com/memorial-day\" target=\"_blank\">Serious Eats Memorial Day guide to grilling all things\u003c/a> -- it includes chicken, hamburgers, veggies, pork, seafood, and cocktails. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Or, just relax with your family and appreciate everything and everyone that got you to this point.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "DIY Tonic Water: Use It for Personalized Gin and Tonics All Summer Long",
"title": "DIY Tonic Water: Use It for Personalized Gin and Tonics All Summer Long",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82456\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/better-ingredients.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-82456\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/better-ingredients.jpg\" alt=\"Homemade tonic water is made from cinchona bark, citric acid, fresh citrus, and lemongrass. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"644\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Homemade tonic water is made from cinchona bark, citric acid, fresh citrus, and lemongrass. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Memorial Day may not fall on the solstice, but it still signifies the beginning of the summer season. With it comes a bounty of fruits and vegetables, picnics, and plenty of afternoons spent grilling outdoors. And even if our Bay Area summer days come interspersed with plenty of cloudy ones, we can still celebrate like the rest of them. The best way to do so? Switch your drinking habits over from dark spirits to light, refreshing gin, served with bubbly, refreshing homemade tonic water.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82457\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/cinchona-close-up.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-82457\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/cinchona-close-up.jpg\" alt=\"Cinchona bark is the source of quinine in homemade tonic water. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"666\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cinchona bark is the source of quinine in homemade tonic water. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>If you take a look at a bottle of Schweppes tonic, you’ll likely see three ingredients: water, corn syrup, and quinine. It’s easy to do better than that at home. Start with the quinine. Most commercial tonic manufacturers use chemically-produced clear quinine in their tonic water, but the bitter flavor originally comes from the ground bark of cinchona trees. Today, cinchona bark is sold as a natural herbal remedy and can be found through most online and brick-and-mortar herb shops. It’ll turn homemade tonic water a golden brown color, but otherwise has the same effect as the commercial variety. To offset the bitter flavor of the cinchona, we’ll add cane sugar (instead of corn syrup) as well as citric acid and the complementary flavors of citrus and lemongrass.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The easiest way to make carbonated tonic water at home is to first make a sweetened tonic concentrate. This viscous liquid will keep in the fridge for an extended period of time and it can be diluted with as much seltzer water as you’d like upon serving.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Most of the recipes for tonic water I found online called for simmering the aromatic mixture in water for close to half an hour. This method makes a tonic concentrate that is extremely bitter, blunt, and intense. I found that I liked tonic that was “cold-extracted” much better -- the flavor of the citrus really shines. Plus, it’s also a tiny bit easier!\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82458\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/peeled-citrus.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-82458\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/peeled-citrus.jpg\" alt=\"Citrus zest and juice are used to flavor the tonic. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"726\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Citrus zest and juice are used to flavor the tonic. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>To begin, gather one orange, lemon, and lime. I like to use organic citrus here because we’ll be using the zest. If you can’t stomach the cost of organic limes right now, be sure to scrub the exterior very well. Use a vegetable peeler to remove the zest in large swaths, leaving as much of the white pith behind as possible. Transfer the zest to a 1-quart glass jar. Halve the peeled citrus and squeeze the juice into the jar. I like to use a levered hand-juicer to make sure I get out as much juice from the fruit as possible.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82459\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/chopped-lemongrass.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-82459\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/chopped-lemongrass.jpg\" alt=\"Remove any dirty and extremely fibrous layers from the lemongrass before chopping it into rough chunks. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"654\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Remove any dirty and extremely fibrous layers from the lemongrass before chopping it into rough chunks. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Next, chop the lemongrass. Remove the first outer layer or two until you reach an unblemished layer. Trim off the really fibrous top 6 or 8 inches of the lemongrass, as well as the bottom 1 inch or so of root. Discard. Cut the remaining lemongrass into rough chunks, about 1/2 inch long. Add these to the jar with the citrus.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cinchona bark is sold “cut” or in powder form. I like to use cut bark because it has a clean flavor and it is easier to strain out of the mixture than the powdered form. You’ll find that the bark pieces are sold in various sizes, so it is best to weigh out the bark instead of using a volume measurement. I like to use one ounce, which (using my cinchona bark) measures out to around 1/4 cup. Add this to the jar as well.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you have a favorite flavor of gin that you’re planning on drinking with the tonic, you can consider adding spices to pair with its botanicals. For example, if you like a juniper-forward gin such as Aviation, you could add a few juniper berries to the jar. Or perhaps up the citrus flavor of the tonic by adding coriander seeds. Allspice and cardamom are also common additions. Personally, I like to keep the tonic a blank slate in order to use it with a wide variety of gins, so I don’t add anything else in the way of flavorings.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82460\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/everything-in-the-jar.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-82460\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/everything-in-the-jar.jpg\" alt=\"Add water to the mix of fruit and aromatics and let the mixture steep for three days. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"727\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Add water to the mix of fruit and aromatics and let the mixture steep for three days. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Once you’ve got all the flavor elements in the jar, cover the mix with 2 1/2 cups of water. Close the jar, give it a shake, and place it in the fridge. Forget about it for three days.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At some point over those 72 hours, make concentrated simple syrup. This extra-thick syrup will be used to sweeten and thicken the tonic concentrate. Heat 3 cups natural cane sugar (I like its richer flavor, but feel free to use regular granulated instead) and 1 1/2 cups water in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat. Once the mixture comes to a simmer, reduce the heat and stir gently until all of the sugar dissolves. If you’re using natural sugar, the syrup will be brown. That’s okay.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82461\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/adding-citric-acid.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-82461\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/adding-citric-acid.jpg\" alt=\"Citric acid acts as a preservative and flavor enhancer. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"711\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Citric acid acts as a preservative and flavor enhancer. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Remove the syrup from the heat and whisk in 1/4 cup citric acid. This tart powder is used as both a preservative and a flavoring agent for the tonic. It adds a bit of pucker to the final concentrate. Also add a big pinch of kosher salt to balance the flavor. The citric acid and salt should dissolve easily in the syrup with a few good whisks. Transfer the syrup to another 1-quart glass jar, let it cool to room temperature, and then refrigerate until the cinchona mixture is ready.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the end of the steeping period, taste a small spoonful of the cinchona mixture. It should be bitter, of course, but should also taste of citrus and lemongrass. If you think the flavor is weak, you can let it steep a little longer in the fridge. Be careful though -- you don’t want it to be too bitter. If you like the flavor, it’s time to strain.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82462\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/straining-2.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-82462\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/straining-2.jpg\" alt=\"Use coffee filters and a fine-mesh strainer to remove even the smallest bits of cinchona residue from the steeped mixture. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"700\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Use coffee filters and a fine-mesh strainer to remove even the smallest bits of cinchona residue from the steeped mixture. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>I like to use a fine-mesh strainer lined with coffee filters to ensure that I get out every last bit of cinchona residue from the tonic. Help the straining along by wetting the coffee filters before adding the cinchona mixture. You’ll probably need to add the mixture in batches, unless you have an extra-large strainer. It will take several minutes for all of the mixture to seep through the filters. Be patient.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once everything is strained, discard the solids. Pull out the citric acid-filled simple syrup and add it to the cinchona mixture in stages. Since we’re adding the syrup last, you can control how sweet you’d like the final tonic to be. Add all of the syrup for an extra sweet tonic, or hang back a little for a dryer result. Taste as you go, keeping in mind that you will be diluting the concentrate with seltzer water for serving. I added about 2 cups of simple syrup, bringing the total amount of concentrate to 4 cups. Give everything a good whisk to ensure that the sugar is well distributed in the cinchona mixture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82463\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/mixed-with-sugar.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-82463\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/mixed-with-sugar.jpg\" alt=\"Whisk the strained cinchona mixture with the citric acid-sugar syrup to taste. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"748\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Whisk the strained cinchona mixture with the citric acid-sugar syrup to taste. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>At this point, the tonic concentrate is ready to go. You can serve it right away or transfer it back to a (clean) 1-quart glass jar and refrigerate for up to two months. To serve, you’ll want to add seltzer water. I have a home soda maker, but you can also use store-bought seltzer or club soda to dilute. I like to use equal parts tonic concentrate and seltzer, but if you’d like a more subtle drink, you can dilute further to a 2:1 ratio of water to tonic. If you’re making just one drink, you can mix it right in a highball glass. (It’s pretty.) Otherwise, mix the tonic and soda up in a pitcher before serving. To make a \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2016/07/22/diy-gin-yes-you-can-make-it-without-a-still/\" target=\"_blank\">gin\u003c/a> and tonic, start with 1 to 2 ounces of gin in a highball glass filled with ice. Top with tonic water and a lime wedge.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82464\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 700px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/finished-tonic.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-82464\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/finished-tonic.jpg\" alt=\"DIY tonic water. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"700\" height=\"1028\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">DIY tonic water. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: DIY Tonic Water\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 to 5 cups, enough for 8 to 16 cups tonic water\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Note: \u003c/strong> Cinchona bark and citric acid are available online at \u003ca href=\"http://www.mountainroseherbs.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Mountain Rose Herbs\u003c/a> or at \u003ca href=\"http://www.herb-inc.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Lhasa Karnak Herb Company\u003c/a> in Berkeley.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>1 orange\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 lemon\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 lime\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>4 cups water\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 stalk lemongrass, chopped coarse\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 cup (1 ounce) cut cinchona bark\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1–2 tablespoons additional herbs and spices, such as allspice, cardamom, or juniper (optional)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3 cups natural cane sugar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 cup citric acid\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/8 teaspoon kosher salt\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Equipment:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>Vegetable peeler\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Cooking scale\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 (1-quart) glass jars with tight fitting lids\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Medium saucepan\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Fine-mesh strainer\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Coffee filters\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Whisk\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>Remove the zest in large strips from orange, lemon, and lime (leaving the white pith behind), then halve and juice fruits. Combine the zests, juice, 2 1/2 cups water, lemongrass, and cinchona bark in a 1-quart glass jar. Refrigerate until the flavors have melded, about three days.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Meanwhile, make simple syrup by combining the remaining 1 1/2 cups water with the sugar in a medium saucepan. Bring mixture up to a simmer over medium-low heat until the sugar has dissolved. Remove the saucepan from the heat and whisk in the citric acid and salt. Let cool to room temperature and refrigerate until the cinchona mixture has finished steeping.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>After 72 hours, strain the cinchona mixture through a coffee filter-lined fine-mesh strainer into a large bowl. Rinse out glass jar.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Whisk simple syrup into the cinchona mixture until thoroughly combined. Transfer tonic concentrate back to glass jar and store in the refrigerator for up to two months.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>To dilute and serve, combine tonic concentrate with plain seltzer water at anywhere from a 1:1 to 2:1 ratio of water to tonic. For a \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2016/07/22/diy-gin-yes-you-can-make-it-without-a-still/\" target=\"_blank\">gin\u003c/a> and tonic, combine tonic water with ice and 2 ounces gin in a highball glass. Serve with a lime wedge.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Memorial Day signals the beginning of summer, which is the best time of year for cool, icy cocktails. The queen of all iced cocktails is the gin and tonic—but it's so often ruined by overly sweetened, mass-produced tonic water. Making your own tonic water is much easier than you'd think and far tastier than even the fanciest artisanal brands. Kate Williams will show you how.",
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"description": "Memorial Day signals the beginning of summer, which is the best time of year for cool, icy cocktails. The queen of all iced cocktails is the gin and tonic—but it's so often ruined by overly sweetened, mass-produced tonic water. Making your own tonic water is much easier than you'd think and far tastier than even the fanciest artisanal brands. Kate Williams will show you how.",
"title": "DIY Tonic Water: Use It for Personalized Gin and Tonics All Summer Long | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82456\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/better-ingredients.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-82456\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/better-ingredients.jpg\" alt=\"Homemade tonic water is made from cinchona bark, citric acid, fresh citrus, and lemongrass. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"644\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Homemade tonic water is made from cinchona bark, citric acid, fresh citrus, and lemongrass. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Memorial Day may not fall on the solstice, but it still signifies the beginning of the summer season. With it comes a bounty of fruits and vegetables, picnics, and plenty of afternoons spent grilling outdoors. And even if our Bay Area summer days come interspersed with plenty of cloudy ones, we can still celebrate like the rest of them. The best way to do so? Switch your drinking habits over from dark spirits to light, refreshing gin, served with bubbly, refreshing homemade tonic water.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82457\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/cinchona-close-up.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-82457\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/cinchona-close-up.jpg\" alt=\"Cinchona bark is the source of quinine in homemade tonic water. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"666\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cinchona bark is the source of quinine in homemade tonic water. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>If you take a look at a bottle of Schweppes tonic, you’ll likely see three ingredients: water, corn syrup, and quinine. It’s easy to do better than that at home. Start with the quinine. Most commercial tonic manufacturers use chemically-produced clear quinine in their tonic water, but the bitter flavor originally comes from the ground bark of cinchona trees. Today, cinchona bark is sold as a natural herbal remedy and can be found through most online and brick-and-mortar herb shops. It’ll turn homemade tonic water a golden brown color, but otherwise has the same effect as the commercial variety. To offset the bitter flavor of the cinchona, we’ll add cane sugar (instead of corn syrup) as well as citric acid and the complementary flavors of citrus and lemongrass.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The easiest way to make carbonated tonic water at home is to first make a sweetened tonic concentrate. This viscous liquid will keep in the fridge for an extended period of time and it can be diluted with as much seltzer water as you’d like upon serving.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Most of the recipes for tonic water I found online called for simmering the aromatic mixture in water for close to half an hour. This method makes a tonic concentrate that is extremely bitter, blunt, and intense. I found that I liked tonic that was “cold-extracted” much better -- the flavor of the citrus really shines. Plus, it’s also a tiny bit easier!\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82458\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/peeled-citrus.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-82458\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/peeled-citrus.jpg\" alt=\"Citrus zest and juice are used to flavor the tonic. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"726\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Citrus zest and juice are used to flavor the tonic. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>To begin, gather one orange, lemon, and lime. I like to use organic citrus here because we’ll be using the zest. If you can’t stomach the cost of organic limes right now, be sure to scrub the exterior very well. Use a vegetable peeler to remove the zest in large swaths, leaving as much of the white pith behind as possible. Transfer the zest to a 1-quart glass jar. Halve the peeled citrus and squeeze the juice into the jar. I like to use a levered hand-juicer to make sure I get out as much juice from the fruit as possible.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82459\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/chopped-lemongrass.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-82459\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/chopped-lemongrass.jpg\" alt=\"Remove any dirty and extremely fibrous layers from the lemongrass before chopping it into rough chunks. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"654\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Remove any dirty and extremely fibrous layers from the lemongrass before chopping it into rough chunks. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Next, chop the lemongrass. Remove the first outer layer or two until you reach an unblemished layer. Trim off the really fibrous top 6 or 8 inches of the lemongrass, as well as the bottom 1 inch or so of root. Discard. Cut the remaining lemongrass into rough chunks, about 1/2 inch long. Add these to the jar with the citrus.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cinchona bark is sold “cut” or in powder form. I like to use cut bark because it has a clean flavor and it is easier to strain out of the mixture than the powdered form. You’ll find that the bark pieces are sold in various sizes, so it is best to weigh out the bark instead of using a volume measurement. I like to use one ounce, which (using my cinchona bark) measures out to around 1/4 cup. Add this to the jar as well.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you have a favorite flavor of gin that you’re planning on drinking with the tonic, you can consider adding spices to pair with its botanicals. For example, if you like a juniper-forward gin such as Aviation, you could add a few juniper berries to the jar. Or perhaps up the citrus flavor of the tonic by adding coriander seeds. Allspice and cardamom are also common additions. Personally, I like to keep the tonic a blank slate in order to use it with a wide variety of gins, so I don’t add anything else in the way of flavorings.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82460\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/everything-in-the-jar.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-82460\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/everything-in-the-jar.jpg\" alt=\"Add water to the mix of fruit and aromatics and let the mixture steep for three days. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"727\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Add water to the mix of fruit and aromatics and let the mixture steep for three days. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Once you’ve got all the flavor elements in the jar, cover the mix with 2 1/2 cups of water. Close the jar, give it a shake, and place it in the fridge. Forget about it for three days.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At some point over those 72 hours, make concentrated simple syrup. This extra-thick syrup will be used to sweeten and thicken the tonic concentrate. Heat 3 cups natural cane sugar (I like its richer flavor, but feel free to use regular granulated instead) and 1 1/2 cups water in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat. Once the mixture comes to a simmer, reduce the heat and stir gently until all of the sugar dissolves. If you’re using natural sugar, the syrup will be brown. That’s okay.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82461\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/adding-citric-acid.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-82461\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/adding-citric-acid.jpg\" alt=\"Citric acid acts as a preservative and flavor enhancer. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"711\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Citric acid acts as a preservative and flavor enhancer. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Remove the syrup from the heat and whisk in 1/4 cup citric acid. This tart powder is used as both a preservative and a flavoring agent for the tonic. It adds a bit of pucker to the final concentrate. Also add a big pinch of kosher salt to balance the flavor. The citric acid and salt should dissolve easily in the syrup with a few good whisks. Transfer the syrup to another 1-quart glass jar, let it cool to room temperature, and then refrigerate until the cinchona mixture is ready.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the end of the steeping period, taste a small spoonful of the cinchona mixture. It should be bitter, of course, but should also taste of citrus and lemongrass. If you think the flavor is weak, you can let it steep a little longer in the fridge. Be careful though -- you don’t want it to be too bitter. If you like the flavor, it’s time to strain.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82462\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/straining-2.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-82462\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/straining-2.jpg\" alt=\"Use coffee filters and a fine-mesh strainer to remove even the smallest bits of cinchona residue from the steeped mixture. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"700\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Use coffee filters and a fine-mesh strainer to remove even the smallest bits of cinchona residue from the steeped mixture. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>I like to use a fine-mesh strainer lined with coffee filters to ensure that I get out every last bit of cinchona residue from the tonic. Help the straining along by wetting the coffee filters before adding the cinchona mixture. You’ll probably need to add the mixture in batches, unless you have an extra-large strainer. It will take several minutes for all of the mixture to seep through the filters. Be patient.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once everything is strained, discard the solids. Pull out the citric acid-filled simple syrup and add it to the cinchona mixture in stages. Since we’re adding the syrup last, you can control how sweet you’d like the final tonic to be. Add all of the syrup for an extra sweet tonic, or hang back a little for a dryer result. Taste as you go, keeping in mind that you will be diluting the concentrate with seltzer water for serving. I added about 2 cups of simple syrup, bringing the total amount of concentrate to 4 cups. Give everything a good whisk to ensure that the sugar is well distributed in the cinchona mixture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82463\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/mixed-with-sugar.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-82463\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/mixed-with-sugar.jpg\" alt=\"Whisk the strained cinchona mixture with the citric acid-sugar syrup to taste. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"748\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Whisk the strained cinchona mixture with the citric acid-sugar syrup to taste. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>At this point, the tonic concentrate is ready to go. You can serve it right away or transfer it back to a (clean) 1-quart glass jar and refrigerate for up to two months. To serve, you’ll want to add seltzer water. I have a home soda maker, but you can also use store-bought seltzer or club soda to dilute. I like to use equal parts tonic concentrate and seltzer, but if you’d like a more subtle drink, you can dilute further to a 2:1 ratio of water to tonic. If you’re making just one drink, you can mix it right in a highball glass. (It’s pretty.) Otherwise, mix the tonic and soda up in a pitcher before serving. To make a \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2016/07/22/diy-gin-yes-you-can-make-it-without-a-still/\" target=\"_blank\">gin\u003c/a> and tonic, start with 1 to 2 ounces of gin in a highball glass filled with ice. Top with tonic water and a lime wedge.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82464\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 700px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/finished-tonic.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-82464\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/finished-tonic.jpg\" alt=\"DIY tonic water. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"700\" height=\"1028\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">DIY tonic water. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: DIY Tonic Water\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 to 5 cups, enough for 8 to 16 cups tonic water\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Note: \u003c/strong> Cinchona bark and citric acid are available online at \u003ca href=\"http://www.mountainroseherbs.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Mountain Rose Herbs\u003c/a> or at \u003ca href=\"http://www.herb-inc.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Lhasa Karnak Herb Company\u003c/a> in Berkeley.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>1 orange\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 lemon\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 lime\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>4 cups water\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 stalk lemongrass, chopped coarse\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 cup (1 ounce) cut cinchona bark\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1–2 tablespoons additional herbs and spices, such as allspice, cardamom, or juniper (optional)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3 cups natural cane sugar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 cup citric acid\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/8 teaspoon kosher salt\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Equipment:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>Vegetable peeler\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Cooking scale\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 (1-quart) glass jars with tight fitting lids\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Medium saucepan\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Fine-mesh strainer\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Coffee filters\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Whisk\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>Remove the zest in large strips from orange, lemon, and lime (leaving the white pith behind), then halve and juice fruits. Combine the zests, juice, 2 1/2 cups water, lemongrass, and cinchona bark in a 1-quart glass jar. Refrigerate until the flavors have melded, about three days.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Meanwhile, make simple syrup by combining the remaining 1 1/2 cups water with the sugar in a medium saucepan. Bring mixture up to a simmer over medium-low heat until the sugar has dissolved. Remove the saucepan from the heat and whisk in the citric acid and salt. Let cool to room temperature and refrigerate until the cinchona mixture has finished steeping.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>After 72 hours, strain the cinchona mixture through a coffee filter-lined fine-mesh strainer into a large bowl. Rinse out glass jar.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Whisk simple syrup into the cinchona mixture until thoroughly combined. Transfer tonic concentrate back to glass jar and store in the refrigerator for up to two months.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>To dilute and serve, combine tonic concentrate with plain seltzer water at anywhere from a 1:1 to 2:1 ratio of water to tonic. For a \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2016/07/22/diy-gin-yes-you-can-make-it-without-a-still/\" target=\"_blank\">gin\u003c/a> and tonic, combine tonic water with ice and 2 ounces gin in a highball glass. Serve with a lime wedge.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "The Lexicon of Sustainability: Land Trust",
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"content": "\u003cp>In some parts of the country, farm land is valued more for its real estate potential than for what it can grow. As profitability remains challenging for present day farmers, some are looking to sell off their land. Bob Berner, retired Executive Director of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.malt.org/\" target=\"_blank\">Marin Agricultural Land Trust\u003c/a>, explains in this new video by \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/05/15/the-lexicon-of-sustainability-q-a-with-filmmaker-douglas-gayeton/\" target=\"_blank\">Douglas Gayeton\u003c/a> of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.lexiconofsustainability.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Lexicon of Sustainability\u003c/a> project how \u003ca href=\"http://science.kqed.org/quest/video/quest-national-parks-special-bringing-the-parks-to-the-people/\" target=\"_blank\">land trusts\u003c/a> provide guidance and economic support in the form of \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Conservation_easement\" target=\"_blank\">conservation easements\u003c/a> to keep farms in production.\u003c/p>\n\u003cdiv class=\"single-video\">\u003ciframe width=\"560\" height=\"403\" src=\"http://video.pbs.org/viralplayer/2365238250\" frameborder=\"0\" marginwidth=\"0\" marginheight=\"0\" scrolling=\"no\">\u003c/iframe>\u003c/div>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>5 Quotes from Bob Berner, former Executive Director for the \u003ca href=\"http://www.malt.org/\" target=\"_blank\">Marin Agricultural Land Trust\u003c/a>, Nicasio, CA\u003c/strong> (Excerpted from a conversation with Douglas Gayeton)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77115\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 190px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/01/BobBerner.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-thumbnail wp-image-77115\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/01/BobBerner-190x190.jpg\" alt=\"Bob Berner\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bob Berner, former Executive Director for the Marin Agricultural Land Trust\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Marin Agricultural Land Trust:\u003c/strong> MALT is a land trust, a private, nonprofit organization that was formed to actively work to conserve farmland in Marin County, California by acquiring conservation easement in voluntary transactions with agricultural landowners.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Definition of conservation easement:\u003c/strong> It's an agreement between a landowner and a land trust, land conservation organization, or in some cases, a public agency. The landowner agrees to limit the uses of the land to a particular purpose -- in our case, farmland. Other examples might be for habitat or natural resource conservation or open space. But our conservation is aimed at preserving the land as productive agricultural land. So the agreement creates a commitment on the part of the landowner to preserve the land as agricultural land for cultural use. The land trust, MALT, is the holder of the conservation easement and becomes responsible for stewardship of the easement, establishing a relationship with the [owner] who granted the easement and successive property owners to make sure that the terms of easement are respected and observed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/01/Lexishort8_LandTrust_11.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignleft size-medium wp-image-77118\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/01/Lexishort8_LandTrust_11-290x163.jpg\" alt=\"conservation easement\" width=\"290\" height=\"163\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Benefits of conservation easements:\u003c/strong> Typically, the reason that the landowner is willing to sell the easement in order to give up certain property rights and commit the land to agricultural use is because land values in our community -- agricultural land values -- have escalated far beyond any values based on agricultural incomes.This creates over time a potential problem for agricultural landowners who wish to continue in agriculture because they may have to buy out partners or co-owners at market values, but it’s very difficult to do that with the income that’s generated by the land. So what the Marin Agricultural Land Trust offers to do is essentially to liquidate a part of the value of the land without the landowner having to sell the land, but only having to sell this prescription in the form of a conservation easement. And the proceeds of that sale now enable the landowner to do whatever he or she or they may wish and need to do to buy out partners or co-owners, pay out debt, invest in their operations and so forth. So again, it just means for the landowner to continue owning and preserving their property for agricultural use while generating some capital for other purposes -- and in some cases, helping to hold on to the land and keep it in the family.\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/01/Lexishort8_LandTrust_03.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignright size-medium wp-image-77117\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/01/Lexishort8_LandTrust_03-290x163.jpg\" alt=\"land trust\" width=\"290\" height=\"163\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Limitations on future land use\u003c/strong>: The agreement in the conservation easement is one whereby the property owner is giving up the right to do certain things for the property in the future. For example, in the case of an agricultural conservation easement, the landowner is giving up the right to subdivide and develop the land for non-agricultural purposes. That’s why the landowner may require a payment for giving up those rights because those rights could have substantial value. So MALT is compensating the landowner for the loss of value resulting from him or her giving up these future development rights.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>How Marin might be different without land trusts:\u003c/strong> Agriculture has been a part of the history and life of Marin County for over 150 years. It is a fundamental part of the history, culture, environmental character and quality of life. So the loss of the third of the county that is still active and productive with agriculture use would dramatically change the character of the county and alter, I think in a very negative way, its environmental quality and the quality of life of the people in the county and the people who visit here. Helping to maintain and sustain agriculture and agriculture viability here is something that is broadly supported by residence and visitors alike.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/01/Lex220_LandTrust.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-77116\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/01/Lex220_LandTrust.jpg\" alt=\"Land Trust artwork\" width=\"1522\" height=\"1034\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>All images, artwork and video by Douglas Gayeton\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "With farm land often more valuable as real estate than as agricultural grounds, many farmers look to sell off their lands. Bob Berner, retired Executive Director of the Marin Agricultural Land Trust tells us why land trusts can help bridge that profitability gap.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>In some parts of the country, farm land is valued more for its real estate potential than for what it can grow. As profitability remains challenging for present day farmers, some are looking to sell off their land. Bob Berner, retired Executive Director of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.malt.org/\" target=\"_blank\">Marin Agricultural Land Trust\u003c/a>, explains in this new video by \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/05/15/the-lexicon-of-sustainability-q-a-with-filmmaker-douglas-gayeton/\" target=\"_blank\">Douglas Gayeton\u003c/a> of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.lexiconofsustainability.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Lexicon of Sustainability\u003c/a> project how \u003ca href=\"http://science.kqed.org/quest/video/quest-national-parks-special-bringing-the-parks-to-the-people/\" target=\"_blank\">land trusts\u003c/a> provide guidance and economic support in the form of \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Conservation_easement\" target=\"_blank\">conservation easements\u003c/a> to keep farms in production.\u003c/p>\n\u003cdiv class=\"single-video\">\u003ciframe width=\"560\" height=\"403\" src=\"http://video.pbs.org/viralplayer/2365238250\" frameborder=\"0\" marginwidth=\"0\" marginheight=\"0\" scrolling=\"no\">\u003c/iframe>\u003c/div>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>5 Quotes from Bob Berner, former Executive Director for the \u003ca href=\"http://www.malt.org/\" target=\"_blank\">Marin Agricultural Land Trust\u003c/a>, Nicasio, CA\u003c/strong> (Excerpted from a conversation with Douglas Gayeton)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77115\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 190px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/01/BobBerner.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-thumbnail wp-image-77115\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/01/BobBerner-190x190.jpg\" alt=\"Bob Berner\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bob Berner, former Executive Director for the Marin Agricultural Land Trust\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Marin Agricultural Land Trust:\u003c/strong> MALT is a land trust, a private, nonprofit organization that was formed to actively work to conserve farmland in Marin County, California by acquiring conservation easement in voluntary transactions with agricultural landowners.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Definition of conservation easement:\u003c/strong> It's an agreement between a landowner and a land trust, land conservation organization, or in some cases, a public agency. The landowner agrees to limit the uses of the land to a particular purpose -- in our case, farmland. Other examples might be for habitat or natural resource conservation or open space. But our conservation is aimed at preserving the land as productive agricultural land. So the agreement creates a commitment on the part of the landowner to preserve the land as agricultural land for cultural use. The land trust, MALT, is the holder of the conservation easement and becomes responsible for stewardship of the easement, establishing a relationship with the [owner] who granted the easement and successive property owners to make sure that the terms of easement are respected and observed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/01/Lexishort8_LandTrust_11.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignleft size-medium wp-image-77118\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/01/Lexishort8_LandTrust_11-290x163.jpg\" alt=\"conservation easement\" width=\"290\" height=\"163\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Benefits of conservation easements:\u003c/strong> Typically, the reason that the landowner is willing to sell the easement in order to give up certain property rights and commit the land to agricultural use is because land values in our community -- agricultural land values -- have escalated far beyond any values based on agricultural incomes.This creates over time a potential problem for agricultural landowners who wish to continue in agriculture because they may have to buy out partners or co-owners at market values, but it’s very difficult to do that with the income that’s generated by the land. So what the Marin Agricultural Land Trust offers to do is essentially to liquidate a part of the value of the land without the landowner having to sell the land, but only having to sell this prescription in the form of a conservation easement. And the proceeds of that sale now enable the landowner to do whatever he or she or they may wish and need to do to buy out partners or co-owners, pay out debt, invest in their operations and so forth. So again, it just means for the landowner to continue owning and preserving their property for agricultural use while generating some capital for other purposes -- and in some cases, helping to hold on to the land and keep it in the family.\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/01/Lexishort8_LandTrust_03.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignright size-medium wp-image-77117\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/01/Lexishort8_LandTrust_03-290x163.jpg\" alt=\"land trust\" width=\"290\" height=\"163\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Limitations on future land use\u003c/strong>: The agreement in the conservation easement is one whereby the property owner is giving up the right to do certain things for the property in the future. For example, in the case of an agricultural conservation easement, the landowner is giving up the right to subdivide and develop the land for non-agricultural purposes. That’s why the landowner may require a payment for giving up those rights because those rights could have substantial value. So MALT is compensating the landowner for the loss of value resulting from him or her giving up these future development rights.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>How Marin might be different without land trusts:\u003c/strong> Agriculture has been a part of the history and life of Marin County for over 150 years. It is a fundamental part of the history, culture, environmental character and quality of life. So the loss of the third of the county that is still active and productive with agriculture use would dramatically change the character of the county and alter, I think in a very negative way, its environmental quality and the quality of life of the people in the county and the people who visit here. Helping to maintain and sustain agriculture and agriculture viability here is something that is broadly supported by residence and visitors alike.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/01/Lex220_LandTrust.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-77116\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/01/Lex220_LandTrust.jpg\" alt=\"Land Trust artwork\" width=\"1522\" height=\"1034\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>All images, artwork and video by Douglas Gayeton\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "First King Salmon of the Season: Recipe",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82139\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/uncooked-salmon1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/uncooked-salmon1000.jpg\" alt=\"Prepped fresh raw salmon. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum Klassen\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82139\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Prepped fresh raw salmon\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>It's salmon season! California's commercial salmon fishing opened for the season on May 1, and while we may have to wait a while for the home-grown tomatoes and corn to catch up, having local wild-caught Pacific salmon in the markets definitely makes it feel like summer in the kitchen. King, also known as chinook, salmon is coming into the markets right now, often caught as close as Monterey and Bodega Bays. It's well named, being the salmon that chefs and diners alike prize most highly for its rich, succulent, and deeply flavorful flesh. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Later in the season, you can think about preserving the catch with chef Neil Davidson's tutorial on how to \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/06/20/learn-how-to-butcher-smoke-and-can-a-whole-fish-with-chef-neil-davidson/\">butcher, smoke, and can\u003c/a> salmon and other fish. Right now, with the fat, krill-fed early season fish coming in, our forks and our bellies can't wait for anything more than grilling, sauteeing, or in this case, a damp slow roast in a low-temp oven. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, \"slow\" is relative term here--since fish cooks quickly, even this slow cooking should only take about 25 minutes. Adding a pan of water to steam gently underneath while the fish cooks helps keep the flesh moist, as does slathering on a coat of minced shallots, fresh herbs, and olive oil. Serve the fish warm or room temperature over boiled or steamed fingerling potatoes and an herb salad. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82168\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/cooked-salmon1000a.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/cooked-salmon1000a.jpg\" alt=\"Slow-cooked Salmon over Herb Salad. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum Klassen\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82168\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Slow-cooked Salmon over Herb Salad\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Slow-cooked Salmon Over Herb Salad\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>The slow-cook technique is inspired by the recipe for \u003cem>Wild Salmon Salad with Beets, Potatoes, Egg in Mustard Vinaigrette\u003c/em> found in Los Angeles chef Suzanne Goin's 2005 cookbook, \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1400042151/kqedorg-20\">Sunday Suppers at Lucques\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Serves 3\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Salmon\u003c/em>\n\u003cli>1 lb fillet of Pacific king salmon, skin on, preferably in one piece\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 shallots, finely minced (about 2 tablespoons)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tbsp fresh dill or chervil, minced\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tbsp fresh tarragon, minced\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3 tbsp parsley, minced\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>finely grated zest of 1/2 Meyer lemon (save juice for squeezing over cooked fish)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, or as needed\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Flaky sea salt, such as Maldon\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cem>Herb Salad\u003c/em>\n\u003cli>a handful of flat-leaf parsley, stems removed\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 handful arugula\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 handfuls baby greens or mixed lettuces\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 cup fennel fronds, dill fronds, or a mixture of the two\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tbsp tarragon leaves\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tbsp chives, chopped\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>5 radishes, thinly sliced\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 cup peeled and blanched fava beans, optional\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 tbsp white wine or champagne vinegar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tbsp finely minced shallot\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tsp Dijon mustard\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Sea salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\nInstructions:\n\u003cli>\nPreheat oven to 250ºF. Half-fill a round or square cake pan with water and place it on the lower rack of the oven. Place a rack on a baking sheet. Rub the rack lightly with olive oil. Place the salmon, skin side down, on the rack and set aside to come to room temperature while you make the herb paste. \u003c/li>\n\u003cli>In a medium bowl, mix the shallots and herbs together. Add enough olive oil to make a chunky paste. Sprinkle the salmon lightly with sea salt and freshly ground pepper, then cover with herb paste. Sprinkle on a little more sea salt.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Roast for 20-25 minutes, until the fish is just cooked through and fish separates into moist flakes when prodded with the tip of a knife. Squeeze juice from zested lemon over fish.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>While the fish is cooking, toss parsley, arugula, tarragon, dill and/or fennel fronds together. In a small bowl, whisk together vinegar, mustard, shallots, salt and pepper. Whisk in olive oil. Taste for seasoning. Just before serving, toss salad with half the dressing, drizzling in more as needed. Arrange on a platter or individual plates and top with radishes and favas. Arrange salmon next to salad.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n",
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"excerpt": "Our local king salmon season has begun. Make the most of the early season's succulent, richly flavored fish with this great slow-cooking technique. Perfect fish that's never dry or overcooked, in less than 30 minutes!\r\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82139\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/uncooked-salmon1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/uncooked-salmon1000.jpg\" alt=\"Prepped fresh raw salmon. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum Klassen\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82139\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Prepped fresh raw salmon\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>It's salmon season! California's commercial salmon fishing opened for the season on May 1, and while we may have to wait a while for the home-grown tomatoes and corn to catch up, having local wild-caught Pacific salmon in the markets definitely makes it feel like summer in the kitchen. King, also known as chinook, salmon is coming into the markets right now, often caught as close as Monterey and Bodega Bays. It's well named, being the salmon that chefs and diners alike prize most highly for its rich, succulent, and deeply flavorful flesh. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Later in the season, you can think about preserving the catch with chef Neil Davidson's tutorial on how to \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/06/20/learn-how-to-butcher-smoke-and-can-a-whole-fish-with-chef-neil-davidson/\">butcher, smoke, and can\u003c/a> salmon and other fish. Right now, with the fat, krill-fed early season fish coming in, our forks and our bellies can't wait for anything more than grilling, sauteeing, or in this case, a damp slow roast in a low-temp oven. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, \"slow\" is relative term here--since fish cooks quickly, even this slow cooking should only take about 25 minutes. Adding a pan of water to steam gently underneath while the fish cooks helps keep the flesh moist, as does slathering on a coat of minced shallots, fresh herbs, and olive oil. Serve the fish warm or room temperature over boiled or steamed fingerling potatoes and an herb salad. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82168\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/cooked-salmon1000a.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/cooked-salmon1000a.jpg\" alt=\"Slow-cooked Salmon over Herb Salad. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum Klassen\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82168\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Slow-cooked Salmon over Herb Salad\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Slow-cooked Salmon Over Herb Salad\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>The slow-cook technique is inspired by the recipe for \u003cem>Wild Salmon Salad with Beets, Potatoes, Egg in Mustard Vinaigrette\u003c/em> found in Los Angeles chef Suzanne Goin's 2005 cookbook, \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1400042151/kqedorg-20\">Sunday Suppers at Lucques\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Serves 3\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Salmon\u003c/em>\n\u003cli>1 lb fillet of Pacific king salmon, skin on, preferably in one piece\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 shallots, finely minced (about 2 tablespoons)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tbsp fresh dill or chervil, minced\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tbsp fresh tarragon, minced\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3 tbsp parsley, minced\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>finely grated zest of 1/2 Meyer lemon (save juice for squeezing over cooked fish)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, or as needed\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Flaky sea salt, such as Maldon\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cem>Herb Salad\u003c/em>\n\u003cli>a handful of flat-leaf parsley, stems removed\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 handful arugula\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 handfuls baby greens or mixed lettuces\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 cup fennel fronds, dill fronds, or a mixture of the two\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tbsp tarragon leaves\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tbsp chives, chopped\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>5 radishes, thinly sliced\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 cup peeled and blanched fava beans, optional\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 tbsp white wine or champagne vinegar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tbsp finely minced shallot\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tsp Dijon mustard\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Sea salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\nInstructions:\n\u003cli>\nPreheat oven to 250ºF. Half-fill a round or square cake pan with water and place it on the lower rack of the oven. Place a rack on a baking sheet. Rub the rack lightly with olive oil. Place the salmon, skin side down, on the rack and set aside to come to room temperature while you make the herb paste. \u003c/li>\n\u003cli>In a medium bowl, mix the shallots and herbs together. Add enough olive oil to make a chunky paste. Sprinkle the salmon lightly with sea salt and freshly ground pepper, then cover with herb paste. Sprinkle on a little more sea salt.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Roast for 20-25 minutes, until the fish is just cooked through and fish separates into moist flakes when prodded with the tip of a knife. Squeeze juice from zested lemon over fish.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>While the fish is cooking, toss parsley, arugula, tarragon, dill and/or fennel fronds together. In a small bowl, whisk together vinegar, mustard, shallots, salt and pepper. Whisk in olive oil. Taste for seasoning. Just before serving, toss salad with half the dressing, drizzling in more as needed. Arrange on a platter or individual plates and top with radishes and favas. Arrange salmon next to salad.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "Delicious!: A Novel, by Ruth Reichl -- Marshmallow Fiction from Gourmet's Former Editor",
"title": "Delicious!: A Novel, by Ruth Reichl -- Marshmallow Fiction from Gourmet's Former Editor",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82351\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 296px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/Delicious-JPG-Cover-image.jpeg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/Delicious-JPG-Cover-image.jpeg\" alt=\"Delicious! A Novel Photo: Courtesy of Ruth Reichl\" width=\"296\" height=\"450\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82351\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Delicious! A Novel Photo: Courtesy of Ruth Reichl\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>It couldn't have been easy for editor-in-chief Ruth Reichl when \u003cem>Gourmet\u003c/em>, the magazine she had run since 1999, was abruptly shuttered by parent company Conde Nast in 2009. The elegant monthly magazine had been in business since 1941, and Reichl had worked tirelessly for ten years to make it relevant in a rapidly changing gastronomic climate. As talented an editor and writer as Reichl was, however, she couldn't save \u003cem>Gourmet\u003c/em> from the publishing world's pessimistic number-crunchers. Conde Nast axed the once-glamorous \u003cem>Gourmet\u003c/em> in favor of its other food magazine, the bright, ad-generating, family-friendly \u003cem>\u003ca>Bon Appetit\u003c/a>\u003c/em>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With all her insider knowledge of New York's wildly competitive, ambition-driven, gossip-riddled restaurant and food world, one would expect to see Reichl tapping out her own tell-all of that heady time. After all, she has already written three best-selling, well-received and unflinchingly truthful memoirs, starting with \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0812981111/kqedorg-20\">Tender at the Bone\u003c/a>\u003c/em>, which described her childhood with a mentally disturbed, food-hording mother, followed by her freewheeling life as a hippie chef turned restaurant critic in 1970s California. \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0812981626/kqedorg-20\">Comfort Me with Apples\u003c/a>\u003c/em> had her touring Europe with \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.saveur.com/\">Saveur\u003c/a>\u003c/em> editor Colman Andrews, getting a sentimental and culinary education at his side. \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0143036610/kqedorg-20\">Garlic and Sapphires\u003c/a>\u003c/em> detailed her wig-wearing, persona-creating experiments as the all-powerful restaurant reviewer at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com\">New York Times\u003c/a>. Clearly, Reichl can write, and write well, on a variety of topics.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_25777\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/03/Ruth-Reichl-Photo300.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/03/Ruth-Reichl-Photo300.jpg\" alt=\"Ruth Reichl. Photo: Fiona Aboud\" width=\"300\" height=\"450\" class=\"size-full wp-image-25777\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ruth Reichl. Photo: Fiona Aboud\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>But while good novelists usually have the chops to be good memoirists, the reverse is not often true. Despite being based around a \u003cem>Gourmet\u003c/em> magazine stand-in named \u003cem>Delicious!\u003c/em>, Reichl's first foray into fiction, \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1400069629/kqedorg-20\">Delicious!\u003c/a>\u003c/em>, is less \u003cem>roman à clef\u003c/em> than Nancy Drew-ishly-plotted novel about an ugly duckling coming into her own in the big city. Fluffy, sweet, and wholly unbelievable, \u003cem>Delicious!\u003c/em> isn't being marketed as a young-adult book, but it might as well be, except that it's too sugary for a genre now dominated by dark, dystopian fantasies and sexed-up vampires. There's no devil wearing Prada here. Instead, everyone's gorgeous, everyone's charming, and (most unbelievable of all) everyone's friendly, eager to get instantly helpfully chummy with Reichl's frumpy little nobody of a heroine, Billie Breslin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Because isn't that \u003cem>exactly\u003c/em> what life is like in the New York media world? Billie shows up, a badly dressed college dropout with dorky glasses and baggy khakis, who suffers panic attacks when asked to cook, and suddenly the editor of the city's top food magazine wants her as his assistant. On her very first day, the glad-handing owner of the best Italian deli in the city hires her on the spot for a second job that turns into a second family. Within days, she's hanging out with her new magazine pals, drinking endless glasses of wine and scarfing up plates of duck hearts at their cool chef friends' new restaurants. Oh, and at the two-month point, that silver-fox editor takes her out for expensive sushi and assigns her a long feature story about the deli where she's working. Without asking permission from her deli-owner boss, she writes it, brilliantly, in a single all-nighter. And why worry about negligible publishing salaries when dad's paying the rent on that sweet walk-up on hipster-ridden Rivington Street? Even the character's name manages to evoke both \u003ca href=\"http://thebreslin.com/\">The Breslin\u003c/a>, a hot restaurant hangout helmed by Brit-chef April Bloomfield (fictionalized here as Thursday Brown, owner of The Pig, a hardly-disguised version of \u003ca href=\"http://thespottedpig.com/\">The Spotted Pig\u003c/a>, another of Bloomfield's popular restaurants) and the Pulitzer-Prize-winning, longtime NYC journalist Jimmy Breslin. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hired to answer the phone and fetch coffee, suddenly Billie's swimming in feature assignments involving cute farmers and voluble fishermen and fun travel all around the country, because that's just how brand-new careers go in the kooky New York magazine world. See, Billie has that one-in-a-million skill, the pitch-perfect palate. She can pick out a whisper of curry leaf in a spinach-saffron-Parmesan gnocchi that Thursday pops into her mouth the minute she walks into The Pig's crowded kitchen. Oh, how she regrets that in a \"chocolate that tastes like rain,\" she can pick out only \"hyssop and maybe myrtle, and a bit of cassia\" before \"the flavors get away from\" her. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Everyone treats Billie's palate like it's Barry Zito's throwing arm in its prime, but, in fact, it's not exactly a novel talent. Anyone who tastes for a living learns to cultivate sense memories and build a mental database of flavors and scents, so that faced with a dish you can say this is cardamom, this is coriander, this is fenugreek, and that is turmeric. Hardly rocket science. For any food writer or recipe developer or (presumably) chef, identifying, remembering, and recalling flavors is a basic part of the necessary skill set. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, that's the first 80 pages or so, until, as in life, \u003cem>Delicious!\u003c/em> is abruptly shuttered, leaving Billie adrift but, weirdly, still employed as a lone phone voice kept on to honor the \"Delicious! Guarantee,\" a longtime marketing gimmick that promised readers satisfaction with all the magazine's recipes or the cost of their ingredients back. The remaining two-thirds of the book becomes Scooby Doo with cell phones, as intrepid girl reporter Billie discovers, in a secret room in the magazine's long-locked library, a hidden! cache! of! nifty! letters! written by a perkily precocious girl named Lulu to none other but James Beard, who, as a gay soldier during World War II, had nothing better to do than share wartime-rationing cooking tips and canned life lessons with a chatty teenage pen pal from Akron, Ohio. One of the magazine's last librarians, obviously with too much time on his hands, has created an elaborate, yet essentially pointless, treasure hunt for the letters through the library's idiosyncratic card file, which Billie follows with breathless, Velma-worthy excitement. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If only, as readers, we could care about annoyingly chipper little Lulu, persecuted by mean teachers for her milkweed-foraging habits and fondness for pasta (enemy food, in that Axis-fearing era). Or about little Billie, who turns out to have a size-six killer bod AND fabulous fashion sense AND a trust fund on tap from The Cake Sisters, the wildly successful baking business she and her sister started as pre-teens and ran until college, when her absolutely, positively flawless older sister was run down by a speeding Jaguar as she carried the toppers for a $30,000 wedding-cupcake extravaganza across the street. (This is the perfectly perfect dead sister in whose shadow Billie has been willingly standing throughout the whole book, until Big Sis is revealed to have been snorting all her cake-baking profits up her nose, a habit proven after her death thanks to the meticulous written records kept by her coke dealer about all his clients. Because, of course, drug dealers: just like accountants that way.) \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Occasionally, there are moments when Reichl's extensive knowledge of the actual New York food world peeks through. But the howlers outnumber the real world moments by the dozens. Like Billie's devoted boyfriend, Mitch, a well-regarded architectural historian and professor who is surely a little old to be dating a woman of barely legal drinking age. Mitch comes straight from the sensitive urban-hunk division of rom-com casting as he reaches beneath his platform bed, promising \"and now for the major attraction.\" Handcuffs? Sex toys? Nope--just the ultimate foodie fantasy: an under-the-bed freezer drawer stocked with post-coital coffee ice cream, enough to make him worth at least a Ben & Jerry's-fueled booty call or two. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In interviews shortly after \u003cem>Gourmet\u003c/em> closed, Reichl implied that another memoir, this time about her life at the magazine, was on its way. If you want the full Reichl-style meal, better wait for that one. \u003cem>Delicious!\u003c/em> is all frosting and no filling. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Ruth Reichl is discussing Delicious! A Novel at the following Bay Area venues this week:\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5/20, 7 p.m.\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.paloaltojcc.org/events/2014/05/20/cultural-arts/book-signing-ruth-reichl-em-delicious-em/\" target=\"_blank\">Commonwealth Club/JCC\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n3921 Fabian Way, Palo Alto\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.commonwealthclub.org/events/2014-05-20/ruth-reichl\">More information about the event\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5/21, 12:15 p.m.\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.bookpassage.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Book Passage\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n51 Tamal Vista Blvd., Corte Madera\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://bookpassage.com/event/literary-lunch-ruth-reichl-delicious\">More information about the event\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5/21, 6:30 p.m.\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://omnivorebooks.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Omnivore Books\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n3885 Cesar Chavez St., San Francisco\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.omnivorebooks.com/events.html\">More information about the event\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Ruth Reichl, best-selling memoirist and longtime food writer, pens her first novel, loosely based on her time as the editor in chief at the now-defunct Gourmet. Is it this summer's perfect foodie beach read, or too fluffy even for cupcake lovers? Stephanie Rosenbaum Klassen tastes-tests the treat. \r\n",
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"title": "Delicious!: A Novel, by Ruth Reichl -- Marshmallow Fiction from Gourmet's Former Editor | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82351\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 296px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/Delicious-JPG-Cover-image.jpeg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/Delicious-JPG-Cover-image.jpeg\" alt=\"Delicious! A Novel Photo: Courtesy of Ruth Reichl\" width=\"296\" height=\"450\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82351\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Delicious! A Novel Photo: Courtesy of Ruth Reichl\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>It couldn't have been easy for editor-in-chief Ruth Reichl when \u003cem>Gourmet\u003c/em>, the magazine she had run since 1999, was abruptly shuttered by parent company Conde Nast in 2009. The elegant monthly magazine had been in business since 1941, and Reichl had worked tirelessly for ten years to make it relevant in a rapidly changing gastronomic climate. As talented an editor and writer as Reichl was, however, she couldn't save \u003cem>Gourmet\u003c/em> from the publishing world's pessimistic number-crunchers. Conde Nast axed the once-glamorous \u003cem>Gourmet\u003c/em> in favor of its other food magazine, the bright, ad-generating, family-friendly \u003cem>\u003ca>Bon Appetit\u003c/a>\u003c/em>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With all her insider knowledge of New York's wildly competitive, ambition-driven, gossip-riddled restaurant and food world, one would expect to see Reichl tapping out her own tell-all of that heady time. After all, she has already written three best-selling, well-received and unflinchingly truthful memoirs, starting with \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0812981111/kqedorg-20\">Tender at the Bone\u003c/a>\u003c/em>, which described her childhood with a mentally disturbed, food-hording mother, followed by her freewheeling life as a hippie chef turned restaurant critic in 1970s California. \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0812981626/kqedorg-20\">Comfort Me with Apples\u003c/a>\u003c/em> had her touring Europe with \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.saveur.com/\">Saveur\u003c/a>\u003c/em> editor Colman Andrews, getting a sentimental and culinary education at his side. \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0143036610/kqedorg-20\">Garlic and Sapphires\u003c/a>\u003c/em> detailed her wig-wearing, persona-creating experiments as the all-powerful restaurant reviewer at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com\">New York Times\u003c/a>. Clearly, Reichl can write, and write well, on a variety of topics.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_25777\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/03/Ruth-Reichl-Photo300.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/03/Ruth-Reichl-Photo300.jpg\" alt=\"Ruth Reichl. Photo: Fiona Aboud\" width=\"300\" height=\"450\" class=\"size-full wp-image-25777\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ruth Reichl. Photo: Fiona Aboud\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>But while good novelists usually have the chops to be good memoirists, the reverse is not often true. Despite being based around a \u003cem>Gourmet\u003c/em> magazine stand-in named \u003cem>Delicious!\u003c/em>, Reichl's first foray into fiction, \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1400069629/kqedorg-20\">Delicious!\u003c/a>\u003c/em>, is less \u003cem>roman à clef\u003c/em> than Nancy Drew-ishly-plotted novel about an ugly duckling coming into her own in the big city. Fluffy, sweet, and wholly unbelievable, \u003cem>Delicious!\u003c/em> isn't being marketed as a young-adult book, but it might as well be, except that it's too sugary for a genre now dominated by dark, dystopian fantasies and sexed-up vampires. There's no devil wearing Prada here. Instead, everyone's gorgeous, everyone's charming, and (most unbelievable of all) everyone's friendly, eager to get instantly helpfully chummy with Reichl's frumpy little nobody of a heroine, Billie Breslin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Because isn't that \u003cem>exactly\u003c/em> what life is like in the New York media world? Billie shows up, a badly dressed college dropout with dorky glasses and baggy khakis, who suffers panic attacks when asked to cook, and suddenly the editor of the city's top food magazine wants her as his assistant. On her very first day, the glad-handing owner of the best Italian deli in the city hires her on the spot for a second job that turns into a second family. Within days, she's hanging out with her new magazine pals, drinking endless glasses of wine and scarfing up plates of duck hearts at their cool chef friends' new restaurants. Oh, and at the two-month point, that silver-fox editor takes her out for expensive sushi and assigns her a long feature story about the deli where she's working. Without asking permission from her deli-owner boss, she writes it, brilliantly, in a single all-nighter. And why worry about negligible publishing salaries when dad's paying the rent on that sweet walk-up on hipster-ridden Rivington Street? Even the character's name manages to evoke both \u003ca href=\"http://thebreslin.com/\">The Breslin\u003c/a>, a hot restaurant hangout helmed by Brit-chef April Bloomfield (fictionalized here as Thursday Brown, owner of The Pig, a hardly-disguised version of \u003ca href=\"http://thespottedpig.com/\">The Spotted Pig\u003c/a>, another of Bloomfield's popular restaurants) and the Pulitzer-Prize-winning, longtime NYC journalist Jimmy Breslin. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hired to answer the phone and fetch coffee, suddenly Billie's swimming in feature assignments involving cute farmers and voluble fishermen and fun travel all around the country, because that's just how brand-new careers go in the kooky New York magazine world. See, Billie has that one-in-a-million skill, the pitch-perfect palate. She can pick out a whisper of curry leaf in a spinach-saffron-Parmesan gnocchi that Thursday pops into her mouth the minute she walks into The Pig's crowded kitchen. Oh, how she regrets that in a \"chocolate that tastes like rain,\" she can pick out only \"hyssop and maybe myrtle, and a bit of cassia\" before \"the flavors get away from\" her. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Everyone treats Billie's palate like it's Barry Zito's throwing arm in its prime, but, in fact, it's not exactly a novel talent. Anyone who tastes for a living learns to cultivate sense memories and build a mental database of flavors and scents, so that faced with a dish you can say this is cardamom, this is coriander, this is fenugreek, and that is turmeric. Hardly rocket science. For any food writer or recipe developer or (presumably) chef, identifying, remembering, and recalling flavors is a basic part of the necessary skill set. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, that's the first 80 pages or so, until, as in life, \u003cem>Delicious!\u003c/em> is abruptly shuttered, leaving Billie adrift but, weirdly, still employed as a lone phone voice kept on to honor the \"Delicious! Guarantee,\" a longtime marketing gimmick that promised readers satisfaction with all the magazine's recipes or the cost of their ingredients back. The remaining two-thirds of the book becomes Scooby Doo with cell phones, as intrepid girl reporter Billie discovers, in a secret room in the magazine's long-locked library, a hidden! cache! of! nifty! letters! written by a perkily precocious girl named Lulu to none other but James Beard, who, as a gay soldier during World War II, had nothing better to do than share wartime-rationing cooking tips and canned life lessons with a chatty teenage pen pal from Akron, Ohio. One of the magazine's last librarians, obviously with too much time on his hands, has created an elaborate, yet essentially pointless, treasure hunt for the letters through the library's idiosyncratic card file, which Billie follows with breathless, Velma-worthy excitement. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If only, as readers, we could care about annoyingly chipper little Lulu, persecuted by mean teachers for her milkweed-foraging habits and fondness for pasta (enemy food, in that Axis-fearing era). Or about little Billie, who turns out to have a size-six killer bod AND fabulous fashion sense AND a trust fund on tap from The Cake Sisters, the wildly successful baking business she and her sister started as pre-teens and ran until college, when her absolutely, positively flawless older sister was run down by a speeding Jaguar as she carried the toppers for a $30,000 wedding-cupcake extravaganza across the street. (This is the perfectly perfect dead sister in whose shadow Billie has been willingly standing throughout the whole book, until Big Sis is revealed to have been snorting all her cake-baking profits up her nose, a habit proven after her death thanks to the meticulous written records kept by her coke dealer about all his clients. Because, of course, drug dealers: just like accountants that way.) \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Occasionally, there are moments when Reichl's extensive knowledge of the actual New York food world peeks through. But the howlers outnumber the real world moments by the dozens. Like Billie's devoted boyfriend, Mitch, a well-regarded architectural historian and professor who is surely a little old to be dating a woman of barely legal drinking age. Mitch comes straight from the sensitive urban-hunk division of rom-com casting as he reaches beneath his platform bed, promising \"and now for the major attraction.\" Handcuffs? Sex toys? Nope--just the ultimate foodie fantasy: an under-the-bed freezer drawer stocked with post-coital coffee ice cream, enough to make him worth at least a Ben & Jerry's-fueled booty call or two. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In interviews shortly after \u003cem>Gourmet\u003c/em> closed, Reichl implied that another memoir, this time about her life at the magazine, was on its way. If you want the full Reichl-style meal, better wait for that one. \u003cem>Delicious!\u003c/em> is all frosting and no filling. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Ruth Reichl is discussing Delicious! A Novel at the following Bay Area venues this week:\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5/20, 7 p.m.\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.paloaltojcc.org/events/2014/05/20/cultural-arts/book-signing-ruth-reichl-em-delicious-em/\" target=\"_blank\">Commonwealth Club/JCC\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n3921 Fabian Way, Palo Alto\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.commonwealthclub.org/events/2014-05-20/ruth-reichl\">More information about the event\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5/21, 12:15 p.m.\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.bookpassage.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Book Passage\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n51 Tamal Vista Blvd., Corte Madera\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://bookpassage.com/event/literary-lunch-ruth-reichl-delicious\">More information about the event\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "Cholo Soy: Tiny Peruvian Restaurant in the Mission Serves Excellent Comfort Food and Fantastic Ceviche ",
"title": "Cholo Soy: Tiny Peruvian Restaurant in the Mission Serves Excellent Comfort Food and Fantastic Ceviche ",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82231\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/regular-ceviche-2.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/regular-ceviche-2.jpg\" alt=\"Cholo Soy, a tiny restaurant in a shopping mall, serves some of the best ceviche I have tasted in the Bay. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"711\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82231\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cholo Soy, a tiny restaurant in a shopping mall, serves some of the best ceviche I have tasted in the Bay. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In my short two years of living in the Bay Area, I have seen only a few sweltering days. We here are a blessed bunch, with our mild winters and temperate (if not downright cool) summers. So when the temperatures skyrocket above our familiar upper 60s, it can be challenging to know how to cope. We’ve already had two heat waves this spring, and are likely poised for more as the summer continues. My advice? Take it in stride and fill up on \u003cem>ceviche\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This chilled, tangy raw fish salad from Latin America is one of the greatest antidotes for the heat as well as for the other risk of warm weather, mid-week, beer-filled barbecue parties that stretch into far later hours than anticipated. Cholo Soy, the nondescript Peruvian restaurant slipped into the lobby of the Plaza Adelante on 19th and Mission, is an excellent place to find your remedy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82229\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/counter-2.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/counter-2.jpg\" alt=\"The open kitchen counter is the best place to watch chef/owner Yeral Caldas plate his specialties. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"627\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82229\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The open kitchen counter is the best place to watch chef/owner Yeral Caldas plate his specialties. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Chef and owner Yeral Caldas mans the kitchen every day of the week except for Sundays, serving a concise menu of Peruvian staples for breakfast and lunch. Ceviche and a few other saucy potato-based salads, like \u003cem>papa a la huancaina\u003c/em> and \u003cem>ocopa\u003c/em>, are on regular offer, and a selection of two or three stewed entrees change daily. On Mondays, you can find \u003cem>cau-cau\u003c/em> (tripe stew); Thursdays, \u003cem>aji de gallina\u003c/em> (stewed chicken with aji chiles); or Saturdays, \u003cem>cabrito norteño de cordero\u003c/em> (braised lamb shank). There are a few tables perched against the wall, but the prime seat is right at the counter, where you can watch Caldas work. Turned towards his food truck-sized kitchen, it is much easier to forget that you’re sitting in a small shopping mall. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On the particularly hot (90+ degree) day of our visit, the specials on offer were twofold: \u003cem>escabeche de pollo\u003c/em> or \u003cem>pescado\u003c/em> ($8) and \u003cem>carapulcra\u003c/em>, a stew made of pork or chicken, potatoes, chiles, and peanuts ($11.50-$12.50). Stew sounded like a terrible idea, even in the cool, breezy lobby, so we decided to sample the two specialty ceviches ($7.50 each) and the \u003cem>escabeche de pollo\u003c/em>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82228\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/aji-ceviche-3.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/aji-ceviche-3.jpg\" alt=\"The ceviche chalaco comes tossed with sauce made from sweet-hot, yellow aji amarillo chiles. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"693\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82228\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The \u003cem>ceviche chalaco\u003c/em> comes tossed with sauce made from sweet-hot, yellow \u003cem>aji amarillo\u003c/em> chiles. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Ceviches at Cholo Soy are served with plenty of sauce. Rumored to cure hangovers better than cold pizza and bacon, this tangy, bright liquor is known as \u003cem>leche de tigre\u003c/em>, or tiger’s milk. At its best, the leche is salty, tangy, and refreshing, with just enough heat to erase any lingering fatigue. At Cholo Soy, options are redolent of citrus and a faint whiff of the ocean: the classic \u003cem>ceviche de pescado\u003c/em> is lime-forward, with a hint of celery juice and fragrant cilantro, while the bright yellow \u003cem>ceviche chalaco\u003c/em> is anchored by the brilliantly sweet notes of \u003cem>aji amarillo\u003c/em> chiles. You’ll swear you taste a hint of pineapple, or else a whiff of mango.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The fish, white basa from the Mekong River Delta (per the menu), is gently cured. Each thin slice is presented right after being mixed with citrus, the fish slowly transforming from translucent to opaque as it is eaten. Its flavor is mild and sweet, fully embraced by the potent sauce in which it sits. Slivers of red onion and flecks of cilantro add crunch and herbaceous freshness. Alongside each ceviche order is a small bowl of hotter-than-hot sauce (drizzle with care) and a handful of corn nuts, which shouldn’t be ignored.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82230\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/escabeche-1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/escabeche-1.jpg\" alt=\"Escabeche de pollo, a Wednesday special, comes with a vinegar-and-chile braised chicken drumstick, rice, and lentils. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82230\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">\u003cem>Escabeche de pollo\u003c/em>, a Wednesday special, comes with a vinegar-and-chile braised chicken drumstick, rice, and lentils. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The escabeche, perhaps, lacks the glamour of the ceviche, but it is far from boring. In it, a single braised chicken drumstick sits enveloped by a tangy, vinegary sauce spiked with soft caramelized onions. This sweet and sour gravy makes its way into the crevices of the sweet steamed white rice and tender lentils. Get a bite of all of the components for the optimum balance of flavor. Once the chicken’s gone, top any rogue bites of rice and beans with a little leftover leche de tigre and slices of red onion. Delightful. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82232\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 700px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/sign-1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/sign-1.jpg\" alt=\"A small sandwich board sign is the only indication of the restaurant’s presence in the Plaza Adelante. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"700\" height=\"1050\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82232\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A small sandwich board sign is the only indication of the restaurant’s presence in the Plaza Adelante. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Depending on its country of origin, the word “cholo” can be used to characterize a range of ethnicities and heritages. In some countries, the word flirts with derogatory slur, but in Peru it is a proud descriptor of indigenous heritage. To name a restaurant “Cholo Soy” (“I am a Cholo”) is to lay claim to an historical past and assert the food’s unique distinction in a rapidly gentrifying neighborhood. The food at Cholo Soy is the food of the people — inexpensive, exciting, and soul warming. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Information:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/cholo-soy-san-francisco\">\u003cstrong>Cholo Soy\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nAddress: \u003ca href=\"http://goo.gl/7KozfE\">Map\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n2301 Mission Street (inside Plaza Adelante)\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94110\u003cbr>\nHours: Mon-Sat 9am-4pm\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Cool, spicy Peruvian ceviche is the perfect dish for the record-breaking warm weather that's been hitting the Bay. Kate Williams visits Cholo Soy, the tiny Mission restaurant rumored to serve the best.\r\n",
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"description": "Cool, spicy Peruvian ceviche is the perfect dish for the record-breaking warm weather that's been hitting the Bay. Kate Williams visits Cholo Soy, the tiny Mission restaurant rumored to serve the best.\r\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82231\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/regular-ceviche-2.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/regular-ceviche-2.jpg\" alt=\"Cholo Soy, a tiny restaurant in a shopping mall, serves some of the best ceviche I have tasted in the Bay. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"711\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82231\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cholo Soy, a tiny restaurant in a shopping mall, serves some of the best ceviche I have tasted in the Bay. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In my short two years of living in the Bay Area, I have seen only a few sweltering days. We here are a blessed bunch, with our mild winters and temperate (if not downright cool) summers. So when the temperatures skyrocket above our familiar upper 60s, it can be challenging to know how to cope. We’ve already had two heat waves this spring, and are likely poised for more as the summer continues. My advice? Take it in stride and fill up on \u003cem>ceviche\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This chilled, tangy raw fish salad from Latin America is one of the greatest antidotes for the heat as well as for the other risk of warm weather, mid-week, beer-filled barbecue parties that stretch into far later hours than anticipated. Cholo Soy, the nondescript Peruvian restaurant slipped into the lobby of the Plaza Adelante on 19th and Mission, is an excellent place to find your remedy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82229\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/counter-2.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/counter-2.jpg\" alt=\"The open kitchen counter is the best place to watch chef/owner Yeral Caldas plate his specialties. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"627\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82229\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The open kitchen counter is the best place to watch chef/owner Yeral Caldas plate his specialties. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Chef and owner Yeral Caldas mans the kitchen every day of the week except for Sundays, serving a concise menu of Peruvian staples for breakfast and lunch. Ceviche and a few other saucy potato-based salads, like \u003cem>papa a la huancaina\u003c/em> and \u003cem>ocopa\u003c/em>, are on regular offer, and a selection of two or three stewed entrees change daily. On Mondays, you can find \u003cem>cau-cau\u003c/em> (tripe stew); Thursdays, \u003cem>aji de gallina\u003c/em> (stewed chicken with aji chiles); or Saturdays, \u003cem>cabrito norteño de cordero\u003c/em> (braised lamb shank). There are a few tables perched against the wall, but the prime seat is right at the counter, where you can watch Caldas work. Turned towards his food truck-sized kitchen, it is much easier to forget that you’re sitting in a small shopping mall. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On the particularly hot (90+ degree) day of our visit, the specials on offer were twofold: \u003cem>escabeche de pollo\u003c/em> or \u003cem>pescado\u003c/em> ($8) and \u003cem>carapulcra\u003c/em>, a stew made of pork or chicken, potatoes, chiles, and peanuts ($11.50-$12.50). Stew sounded like a terrible idea, even in the cool, breezy lobby, so we decided to sample the two specialty ceviches ($7.50 each) and the \u003cem>escabeche de pollo\u003c/em>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82228\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/aji-ceviche-3.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/aji-ceviche-3.jpg\" alt=\"The ceviche chalaco comes tossed with sauce made from sweet-hot, yellow aji amarillo chiles. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"693\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82228\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The \u003cem>ceviche chalaco\u003c/em> comes tossed with sauce made from sweet-hot, yellow \u003cem>aji amarillo\u003c/em> chiles. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Ceviches at Cholo Soy are served with plenty of sauce. Rumored to cure hangovers better than cold pizza and bacon, this tangy, bright liquor is known as \u003cem>leche de tigre\u003c/em>, or tiger’s milk. At its best, the leche is salty, tangy, and refreshing, with just enough heat to erase any lingering fatigue. At Cholo Soy, options are redolent of citrus and a faint whiff of the ocean: the classic \u003cem>ceviche de pescado\u003c/em> is lime-forward, with a hint of celery juice and fragrant cilantro, while the bright yellow \u003cem>ceviche chalaco\u003c/em> is anchored by the brilliantly sweet notes of \u003cem>aji amarillo\u003c/em> chiles. You’ll swear you taste a hint of pineapple, or else a whiff of mango.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The fish, white basa from the Mekong River Delta (per the menu), is gently cured. Each thin slice is presented right after being mixed with citrus, the fish slowly transforming from translucent to opaque as it is eaten. Its flavor is mild and sweet, fully embraced by the potent sauce in which it sits. Slivers of red onion and flecks of cilantro add crunch and herbaceous freshness. Alongside each ceviche order is a small bowl of hotter-than-hot sauce (drizzle with care) and a handful of corn nuts, which shouldn’t be ignored.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82230\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/escabeche-1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/escabeche-1.jpg\" alt=\"Escabeche de pollo, a Wednesday special, comes with a vinegar-and-chile braised chicken drumstick, rice, and lentils. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82230\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">\u003cem>Escabeche de pollo\u003c/em>, a Wednesday special, comes with a vinegar-and-chile braised chicken drumstick, rice, and lentils. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The escabeche, perhaps, lacks the glamour of the ceviche, but it is far from boring. In it, a single braised chicken drumstick sits enveloped by a tangy, vinegary sauce spiked with soft caramelized onions. This sweet and sour gravy makes its way into the crevices of the sweet steamed white rice and tender lentils. Get a bite of all of the components for the optimum balance of flavor. Once the chicken’s gone, top any rogue bites of rice and beans with a little leftover leche de tigre and slices of red onion. Delightful. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82232\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 700px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/sign-1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/sign-1.jpg\" alt=\"A small sandwich board sign is the only indication of the restaurant’s presence in the Plaza Adelante. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"700\" height=\"1050\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82232\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A small sandwich board sign is the only indication of the restaurant’s presence in the Plaza Adelante. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Depending on its country of origin, the word “cholo” can be used to characterize a range of ethnicities and heritages. In some countries, the word flirts with derogatory slur, but in Peru it is a proud descriptor of indigenous heritage. To name a restaurant “Cholo Soy” (“I am a Cholo”) is to lay claim to an historical past and assert the food’s unique distinction in a rapidly gentrifying neighborhood. The food at Cholo Soy is the food of the people — inexpensive, exciting, and soul warming. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Information:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/cholo-soy-san-francisco\">\u003cstrong>Cholo Soy\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nAddress: \u003ca href=\"http://goo.gl/7KozfE\">Map\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n2301 Mission Street (inside Plaza Adelante)\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94110\u003cbr>\nHours: Mon-Sat 9am-4pm\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Preserve the Bounty of Spring Produce with Homemade Pickled Vegetables",
"title": "Preserve the Bounty of Spring Produce with Homemade Pickled Vegetables",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82107\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/packed-jars.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/packed-jars.jpg\" alt=\"Transforming spring vegetables into pickles is a great way to preserve their flavor for the coming year. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82107\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Transforming spring vegetables into pickles is a great way to preserve their flavor for the coming year. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Canning is often thought of as a summertime activity, what with the bounty of fruits and tomatoes sure to head our way in a few short months. Yet the humbler spring produce now showing its face at farmers’ markets is still a fine—nay, great—object for preservation. I wouldn’t suggest trying to sort out asparagus jam, but these green stalks, as well as their seasonal friends, make glorious pickles. I like to stuff as many different spring goodies as I can get my hands on into a few good canning jars in order to save them for less exciting times (like, say, January). I’d suggest you do the same. Here’s how:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Before getting to work on the vegetables, it’s a good idea to prepare your jars for canning. I like to make pickles in pint jars because they’re big enough to hold sizable pickles, but they’re not so large that the pickles will go bad before you eat up the entire contents of the jar. (If you choose to use a larger jar, you will need to process the pickles an additional 5 minutes in the boiling water bath.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82098\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/boiling-jars.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/boiling-jars.jpg\" alt=\"Bring jars to a rapid boil for at least 10 minutes in order to sterilize before adding the pickles. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82098\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bring jars to a rapid boil for at least 10 minutes in order to sterilize before adding the pickles. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Glass canning jars need to be boiled for at least 10 minutes in order to be considered sterile. For some canning projects, the items being processed in the boiling water bath will be in the water for 10 minutes or more; in those cases, the jars wouldn’t need to be sterilized. These pickles, however, only need 5 minutes in the boiling water bath in order to be shelf-stable, so it will be necessary to sterilize the jars before canning. To do so, place 4 pint jars on the rack of a canning pot or large stockpot and cover completely with water. Bring this water up to a full, rolling boil. Once it hits a boil, start your 10 minute timer. After the allotted time, turn the heat down to low, cover the pot, and let the jars sit in the hot water until you’re ready for them. They will remain sterile as long as they stay hot and submerged. To soften and sterilize the lids and bands, place four new lids and the accompanying bands in a medium-sized bowl. Ladle over some of the boiling water to cover. Let them sit until the vegetables and brine are ready.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82104\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/ingredients-1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/ingredients-1.jpg\" alt=\"You can pickle whichever spring vegetables look best at the market. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82104\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">You can pickle whichever spring vegetables look best at the market. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>While you’re waiting for the jars to boil, get to work on the vegetables. You’ll need around 2 pounds of ready-to-eat vegetables for four pints of pickles. This means you’ll likely need to buy 2 1/2 to 3 pounds of whatever looks wonderful and fresh. Here, I’m using spring onions, carrots, fennel, asparagus, fava beans, and sugar snap peas. Depending on the vegetable, you’ll need to give it more or less attention. You can cut vegetables into any shape you’d like, but make sure to cut the vegetables into comparable sizes to ensure that they’ll pickle at the same rate. Also be sure to slice long vegetables, like carrots and asparagus, into thin spears so that they will fit upright in the jars. Take a look below to see how I’ve prepped by future pickles:\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82110\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/spring-onions.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/spring-onions.jpg\" alt=\"Spring onions should be trimmed of the dark green sections and sliced into 1/2-inch wide wedges. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82110\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Spring onions should be trimmed of the dark green sections and sliced into 1/2-inch wide wedges. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82100\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/carrots.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/carrots.jpg\" alt=\"Carrots should be peeled or well-scrubbed and sliced into batons around 1/4-inch thick and 3 to 4 inches long. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82100\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Carrots should be peeled or well-scrubbed and sliced into batons around 1/4-inch thick and 3 to 4 inches long. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82102\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/fennel.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/fennel.jpg\" alt=\"Fennel should be trimmed of the stems, scrubbed, and sliced into wedges 1/4- to 1/2-inch thick. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82102\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fennel should be trimmed of the stems, scrubbed, and sliced into wedges 1/4- to 1/2-inch thick. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82105\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/measuring-asparagus.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/measuring-asparagus.jpg\" alt=\"Asparagus should be trimmed of its tough base and cut into pieces that are 3 to 4 inches long. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82105\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Asparagus should be trimmed of its tough base and cut into pieces that are 3 to 4 inches long. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82108\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/snap-peas.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/snap-peas.jpg\" alt=\"Sugar snap peas should have their tops and tails removed, as well as any tough strings. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82108\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sugar snap peas should have their tops and tails removed, as well as any tough strings. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82101\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/fava-collage.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/fava-collage.jpg\" alt=\"Fava beans require a bit more work. Shuck the beans from the pod, and collect in a bowl. Bring a small saucepan of salted water to a boil, and add shucked beans. Let boil until the beans start to turn bright green, about 1 minute. Drain and immediately rinse under cold water. Using your fingers, squeeze out the tender center from the tough skin. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"625\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82101\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fava beans require a bit more work. Shuck the beans from the pod, and collect in a bowl. Bring a small saucepan of salted water to a boil, and add shucked beans. Let boil until the beans start to turn bright green, about 1 minute. Drain and immediately rinse under cold water. Using your fingers, squeeze out the tender center from the tough skin. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Next, prepare the brine. When I’m making pickles or other preserved foods, I like to think about the flavor accents that I would use if I were to say, sauté, these vegetables instead of pickling them. One of my favorite spring herbs is tarragon, which I like to pair with fennel seeds, garlic, ginger, and chile flakes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To translate this palate to a pickle brine, I use a couple of tricks: First, I steep the fresh herbs in the hot brine, and then remove them before pickling. Why? Fresh herbs have a tendency to turn slimy and dark if they sit in vinegar for too long. Steeping allows me to add flavor without compromising the aesthetic of the pickle. Second, I add the spices and garlic directly to the sterilized jars before pouring in the brine. I’ve found that when spices are added to a brine and then poured over pickles, the spices have a tendency to clump together and not distribute evenly in the jars. We’ll return to these spices in a moment.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82111\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/tarragon-1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/tarragon-1.jpg\" alt=\"Bundle 2 cups of tarragon leaves and stems in cheesecloth to make it easy to remove from the brine. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82111\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bundle 2 cups of tarragon leaves and stems in cheesecloth to make it easy to remove from the brine. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>To make it easier to remove the tarragon from the brine, I like to tie up the leaves in cheesecloth. You could also strain the herbs out of the brine using a sieve if you don’t have cheesecloth. I like to use a lot of tarragon (2 whole cups of leaves and stems), but feel free to scale back if you don’t want quite the same intensity of flavor. Place the tarragon leaves and stems in the center of a large piece of cheesecloth. Bring the corners of the cheesecloth together and tie the cheesecloth into a bundle around the tarragon using kitchen twine. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82099\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/brine.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/brine.jpg\" alt=\"Bring the brine to a boil, cover, and let the mixture steep off the heat to infuse with tarragon flavor. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"709\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82099\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bring the brine to a boil, cover, and let the mixture steep off the heat to infuse with tarragon flavor. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Now I build the brine by combining 3 cups each of champagne vinegar (you could also use white wine vinegar) and water in a saucepan with 6 tablespoons each of sugar and salt. I get this heating and add the tarragon bundle. Once the mixture comes to a boil, remove the pot from the heat and let the brine steep for 5 to 10 minutes. Taste as you go, and remove the tarragon once you’ve reached the optimum flavor. Keep the pot covered so that the brine remains hot. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once your brine is ready, remove the jars from the canning pot. Work slowly and carefully (I like to use a long pair of tongs) to let the water drain out of the jars and back into the pot. Place the jars on a towel-lined section of the counter or on a towel-lined baking sheet. Cover the canning pot and return the heat to high to bring it back up to a boil. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82109\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/spices-in-jars.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/spices-in-jars.jpg\" alt=\"I like to place the spices into the jars before adding the vegetables and brine to ensure that they are evenly distributed. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82109\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">I like to place the spices into the jars before adding the vegetables and brine to ensure that they are evenly distributed. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Into the bottom of the hot jars go the spices. In each jar, I like to use 1 clove of garlic and a few slices of ginger, plus 1/4 teaspoon each of black peppercorns and fennel seeds, and a pinch of red pepper flakes. Next, add the vegetables. Try and place an equal amount of each vegetable in each jar, packing them in as tightly as possible. All of the vegetables will shrink when the jars are boiled, so be sure to cram in as many pieces as you can. Finally, top the vegetables with the hot brine. Be sure to leave 1/2 inch of headspace between the top of the brine (and vegetables) and the top of the jar. This headspace will allow for the expansion of the liquid and prevent the jars from breaking when they are boiled. Try to work quickly while packing the jars; you want the jars to still be hot when you are finished.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82106\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/packed-and-brined-jars.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/packed-and-brined-jars.jpg\" alt=\"Pack the vegetables into the jars as tightly as possible, as they will shrink upon processing. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82106\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pack the vegetables into the jars as tightly as possible, as they will shrink upon processing. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Add the lids and bands, screwing them shut just until they are closed. (This is called “finger-tip tight.”) You will want air to be able to escape the jars as they boil to create a vacuum inside of the jars. If the lids are screwed on too tightly, the jars may break. Now transfer the jars back to the pot and bring the water back up to a rolling boil. Do not start timing until the water is fully boiling. Sometimes, air bubbles escaping from the jars will make the water appear as though it is boiling; wait until you can see the bubbling from the bottom of the pot. Let the jars boil for a full 5 minutes, and then remove them from the pot, placing them back on the towel-lined counter. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The lids should start to ping and seal within a few minutes. Still, it is a good idea to let the jars rest undisturbed until they are fully cooled before handling. Once they’re cool, you can remove the bands and store them at room temperature for up to 1 year. If any of the jars fail to seal, store them in the fridge. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My favorite way to serve these pickles is standing at the counter, straight out of the jar, but they’d also pair well with fresh or lightly aged goat cheese and a slice of salami or two.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82103\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/finished-jars.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/finished-jars.jpg\" alt=\"Homemade spring vegetable pickles. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"591\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82103\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Homemade spring vegetable pickles. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: Homemade Spring Vegetable Pickles\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 pints\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Note:\u003c/strong> I find it easiest to weigh the produce after it has been prepared for pickling. Depending on the vegetable, it might need to be peeled or shucked ahead of time. Try to cut vegetables into similar sizes to ensure that they will pickle at the same rate. Long vegetables, such as carrots and asparagus, should be cut to fit into jars vertically.\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>2 1/2 to 3 pounds seasonal vegetables, such as asparagus, carrots, spring onions, fava beans, and sugar snap peas\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 bunches tarragon (about 2 cups of leaves and stems)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3 cups champagne or white wine vinegar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3 cups water\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>6 tablespoon granulated sugar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>6 tablespoons kosher salt\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>4 garlic cloves, halved\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 teaspoon fennel seeds\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 (1-inch piece) fresh ginger, peeled and sliced thin\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Equipment:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>1 large canning pot with rack\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>4 glass canning pint jars with new lids and bands\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Scale\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Cheesecloth\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Kitchen twine\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Medium saucepan\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Canning tongs\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Canning funnel\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Kitchen towel\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003col>\n\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>Place 4 glass pint jars in a large canning pot fitted with a canning rack and add water to cover the tops of the jars by 1 inch. Bring the water to a rapid boil over high heat. Boil the jars for at least 10 minutes to sterilize. After 10 minutes, reduce the heat to low, cover the pot, and let the jars sit in the hot water until the vegetables and brine are ready.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Place the lids and bands in a medium bowl and ladle over some of the boiling water to cover. Let sit until the vegetables and brine are ready.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>While the jars are being sterilized, peel, shuck, and/or slice vegetables as needed to fit into jars. See above photographs for examples. You will need 2 pounds of prepped vegetables for the pickles. Save any extras for snacking.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Place tarragon leaves and stems in the center of a large piece of cheesecloth. Bring the corners of the cheesecloth together and tie the cheesecloth into a bundle around the tarragon using kitchen twine.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Combine the vinegar, water, sugar, and kosher salt in medium saucepan. Add the tarragon bundle. Bring the mixture to a boil, cover, and remove from the heat. Let brine steep until desired tarragon flavor is reached, 5 to 10 minutes. Remove tarragon bundle, squeezing the cheesecloth over the saucepan to remove any excess water. Cover the saucepan to keep warm and set aside.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Carefully remove the sterilized jars from the canning pot, allowing the water inside of the jars to fall back into the pot. Re-cover the pot and return the heat to high. Place the jars on a kitchen towel-lined counter or sheet pan. Working quickly (you want to pack the jars while they are still hot), divide garlic, peppercorns, fennel seeds, ginger, and red pepper flakes between the jars.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Pack the vegetables into the jars, fitting as many vegetables in as possible. They will shrink upon canning. Using the canning funnel, pour the hot brine over the pickles, leaving 1/2 inch headspace. Place the lids on the jars and screw the bands on until they are just closed (“finger-tip tight”).\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Using canning tongs, place the jars back into the canning pot. If it is not already boiling, bring the water back to a rolling boil.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Once the water has reached a full boil, set a timer for 5 minutes. After 5 minutes at a rolling boil, remove the jars from the pot and set back down on to the towel-lined counter. Let the jars cool completely before removing the bands and storing. If any jars fail to seal, store them in the fridge.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Canning is often thought of as a summertime activity, what with the bounty of fruits and tomatoes sure to head our way in a few short months. Yet the humbler spring produce now showing its face at farmers' markets make gorgeous pickles. Kate Williams shows you how.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82107\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/packed-jars.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/packed-jars.jpg\" alt=\"Transforming spring vegetables into pickles is a great way to preserve their flavor for the coming year. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82107\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Transforming spring vegetables into pickles is a great way to preserve their flavor for the coming year. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Canning is often thought of as a summertime activity, what with the bounty of fruits and tomatoes sure to head our way in a few short months. Yet the humbler spring produce now showing its face at farmers’ markets is still a fine—nay, great—object for preservation. I wouldn’t suggest trying to sort out asparagus jam, but these green stalks, as well as their seasonal friends, make glorious pickles. I like to stuff as many different spring goodies as I can get my hands on into a few good canning jars in order to save them for less exciting times (like, say, January). I’d suggest you do the same. Here’s how:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Before getting to work on the vegetables, it’s a good idea to prepare your jars for canning. I like to make pickles in pint jars because they’re big enough to hold sizable pickles, but they’re not so large that the pickles will go bad before you eat up the entire contents of the jar. (If you choose to use a larger jar, you will need to process the pickles an additional 5 minutes in the boiling water bath.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82098\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/boiling-jars.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/boiling-jars.jpg\" alt=\"Bring jars to a rapid boil for at least 10 minutes in order to sterilize before adding the pickles. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82098\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bring jars to a rapid boil for at least 10 minutes in order to sterilize before adding the pickles. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Glass canning jars need to be boiled for at least 10 minutes in order to be considered sterile. For some canning projects, the items being processed in the boiling water bath will be in the water for 10 minutes or more; in those cases, the jars wouldn’t need to be sterilized. These pickles, however, only need 5 minutes in the boiling water bath in order to be shelf-stable, so it will be necessary to sterilize the jars before canning. To do so, place 4 pint jars on the rack of a canning pot or large stockpot and cover completely with water. Bring this water up to a full, rolling boil. Once it hits a boil, start your 10 minute timer. After the allotted time, turn the heat down to low, cover the pot, and let the jars sit in the hot water until you’re ready for them. They will remain sterile as long as they stay hot and submerged. To soften and sterilize the lids and bands, place four new lids and the accompanying bands in a medium-sized bowl. Ladle over some of the boiling water to cover. Let them sit until the vegetables and brine are ready.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82104\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/ingredients-1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/ingredients-1.jpg\" alt=\"You can pickle whichever spring vegetables look best at the market. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82104\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">You can pickle whichever spring vegetables look best at the market. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>While you’re waiting for the jars to boil, get to work on the vegetables. You’ll need around 2 pounds of ready-to-eat vegetables for four pints of pickles. This means you’ll likely need to buy 2 1/2 to 3 pounds of whatever looks wonderful and fresh. Here, I’m using spring onions, carrots, fennel, asparagus, fava beans, and sugar snap peas. Depending on the vegetable, you’ll need to give it more or less attention. You can cut vegetables into any shape you’d like, but make sure to cut the vegetables into comparable sizes to ensure that they’ll pickle at the same rate. Also be sure to slice long vegetables, like carrots and asparagus, into thin spears so that they will fit upright in the jars. Take a look below to see how I’ve prepped by future pickles:\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82110\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/spring-onions.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/spring-onions.jpg\" alt=\"Spring onions should be trimmed of the dark green sections and sliced into 1/2-inch wide wedges. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82110\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Spring onions should be trimmed of the dark green sections and sliced into 1/2-inch wide wedges. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82100\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/carrots.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/carrots.jpg\" alt=\"Carrots should be peeled or well-scrubbed and sliced into batons around 1/4-inch thick and 3 to 4 inches long. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82100\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Carrots should be peeled or well-scrubbed and sliced into batons around 1/4-inch thick and 3 to 4 inches long. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82102\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/fennel.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/fennel.jpg\" alt=\"Fennel should be trimmed of the stems, scrubbed, and sliced into wedges 1/4- to 1/2-inch thick. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82102\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fennel should be trimmed of the stems, scrubbed, and sliced into wedges 1/4- to 1/2-inch thick. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82105\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/measuring-asparagus.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/measuring-asparagus.jpg\" alt=\"Asparagus should be trimmed of its tough base and cut into pieces that are 3 to 4 inches long. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82105\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Asparagus should be trimmed of its tough base and cut into pieces that are 3 to 4 inches long. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82108\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/snap-peas.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/snap-peas.jpg\" alt=\"Sugar snap peas should have their tops and tails removed, as well as any tough strings. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82108\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sugar snap peas should have their tops and tails removed, as well as any tough strings. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82101\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/fava-collage.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/fava-collage.jpg\" alt=\"Fava beans require a bit more work. Shuck the beans from the pod, and collect in a bowl. Bring a small saucepan of salted water to a boil, and add shucked beans. Let boil until the beans start to turn bright green, about 1 minute. Drain and immediately rinse under cold water. Using your fingers, squeeze out the tender center from the tough skin. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"625\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82101\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fava beans require a bit more work. Shuck the beans from the pod, and collect in a bowl. Bring a small saucepan of salted water to a boil, and add shucked beans. Let boil until the beans start to turn bright green, about 1 minute. Drain and immediately rinse under cold water. Using your fingers, squeeze out the tender center from the tough skin. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Next, prepare the brine. When I’m making pickles or other preserved foods, I like to think about the flavor accents that I would use if I were to say, sauté, these vegetables instead of pickling them. One of my favorite spring herbs is tarragon, which I like to pair with fennel seeds, garlic, ginger, and chile flakes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To translate this palate to a pickle brine, I use a couple of tricks: First, I steep the fresh herbs in the hot brine, and then remove them before pickling. Why? Fresh herbs have a tendency to turn slimy and dark if they sit in vinegar for too long. Steeping allows me to add flavor without compromising the aesthetic of the pickle. Second, I add the spices and garlic directly to the sterilized jars before pouring in the brine. I’ve found that when spices are added to a brine and then poured over pickles, the spices have a tendency to clump together and not distribute evenly in the jars. We’ll return to these spices in a moment.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82111\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/tarragon-1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/tarragon-1.jpg\" alt=\"Bundle 2 cups of tarragon leaves and stems in cheesecloth to make it easy to remove from the brine. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82111\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bundle 2 cups of tarragon leaves and stems in cheesecloth to make it easy to remove from the brine. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>To make it easier to remove the tarragon from the brine, I like to tie up the leaves in cheesecloth. You could also strain the herbs out of the brine using a sieve if you don’t have cheesecloth. I like to use a lot of tarragon (2 whole cups of leaves and stems), but feel free to scale back if you don’t want quite the same intensity of flavor. Place the tarragon leaves and stems in the center of a large piece of cheesecloth. Bring the corners of the cheesecloth together and tie the cheesecloth into a bundle around the tarragon using kitchen twine. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82099\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/brine.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/brine.jpg\" alt=\"Bring the brine to a boil, cover, and let the mixture steep off the heat to infuse with tarragon flavor. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"709\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82099\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bring the brine to a boil, cover, and let the mixture steep off the heat to infuse with tarragon flavor. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Now I build the brine by combining 3 cups each of champagne vinegar (you could also use white wine vinegar) and water in a saucepan with 6 tablespoons each of sugar and salt. I get this heating and add the tarragon bundle. Once the mixture comes to a boil, remove the pot from the heat and let the brine steep for 5 to 10 minutes. Taste as you go, and remove the tarragon once you’ve reached the optimum flavor. Keep the pot covered so that the brine remains hot. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once your brine is ready, remove the jars from the canning pot. Work slowly and carefully (I like to use a long pair of tongs) to let the water drain out of the jars and back into the pot. Place the jars on a towel-lined section of the counter or on a towel-lined baking sheet. Cover the canning pot and return the heat to high to bring it back up to a boil. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82109\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/spices-in-jars.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/spices-in-jars.jpg\" alt=\"I like to place the spices into the jars before adding the vegetables and brine to ensure that they are evenly distributed. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82109\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">I like to place the spices into the jars before adding the vegetables and brine to ensure that they are evenly distributed. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Into the bottom of the hot jars go the spices. In each jar, I like to use 1 clove of garlic and a few slices of ginger, plus 1/4 teaspoon each of black peppercorns and fennel seeds, and a pinch of red pepper flakes. Next, add the vegetables. Try and place an equal amount of each vegetable in each jar, packing them in as tightly as possible. All of the vegetables will shrink when the jars are boiled, so be sure to cram in as many pieces as you can. Finally, top the vegetables with the hot brine. Be sure to leave 1/2 inch of headspace between the top of the brine (and vegetables) and the top of the jar. This headspace will allow for the expansion of the liquid and prevent the jars from breaking when they are boiled. Try to work quickly while packing the jars; you want the jars to still be hot when you are finished.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82106\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/packed-and-brined-jars.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/packed-and-brined-jars.jpg\" alt=\"Pack the vegetables into the jars as tightly as possible, as they will shrink upon processing. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82106\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pack the vegetables into the jars as tightly as possible, as they will shrink upon processing. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Add the lids and bands, screwing them shut just until they are closed. (This is called “finger-tip tight.”) You will want air to be able to escape the jars as they boil to create a vacuum inside of the jars. If the lids are screwed on too tightly, the jars may break. Now transfer the jars back to the pot and bring the water back up to a rolling boil. Do not start timing until the water is fully boiling. Sometimes, air bubbles escaping from the jars will make the water appear as though it is boiling; wait until you can see the bubbling from the bottom of the pot. Let the jars boil for a full 5 minutes, and then remove them from the pot, placing them back on the towel-lined counter. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The lids should start to ping and seal within a few minutes. Still, it is a good idea to let the jars rest undisturbed until they are fully cooled before handling. Once they’re cool, you can remove the bands and store them at room temperature for up to 1 year. If any of the jars fail to seal, store them in the fridge. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My favorite way to serve these pickles is standing at the counter, straight out of the jar, but they’d also pair well with fresh or lightly aged goat cheese and a slice of salami or two.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82103\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/finished-jars.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/finished-jars.jpg\" alt=\"Homemade spring vegetable pickles. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"591\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82103\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Homemade spring vegetable pickles. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: Homemade Spring Vegetable Pickles\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 pints\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Note:\u003c/strong> I find it easiest to weigh the produce after it has been prepared for pickling. Depending on the vegetable, it might need to be peeled or shucked ahead of time. Try to cut vegetables into similar sizes to ensure that they will pickle at the same rate. Long vegetables, such as carrots and asparagus, should be cut to fit into jars vertically.\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>2 1/2 to 3 pounds seasonal vegetables, such as asparagus, carrots, spring onions, fava beans, and sugar snap peas\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 bunches tarragon (about 2 cups of leaves and stems)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3 cups champagne or white wine vinegar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3 cups water\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>6 tablespoon granulated sugar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>6 tablespoons kosher salt\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>4 garlic cloves, halved\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 teaspoon fennel seeds\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 (1-inch piece) fresh ginger, peeled and sliced thin\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Equipment:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>1 large canning pot with rack\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>4 glass canning pint jars with new lids and bands\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Scale\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Cheesecloth\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Kitchen twine\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Medium saucepan\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Canning tongs\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Canning funnel\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Kitchen towel\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003col>\n\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>Place 4 glass pint jars in a large canning pot fitted with a canning rack and add water to cover the tops of the jars by 1 inch. Bring the water to a rapid boil over high heat. Boil the jars for at least 10 minutes to sterilize. After 10 minutes, reduce the heat to low, cover the pot, and let the jars sit in the hot water until the vegetables and brine are ready.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Place the lids and bands in a medium bowl and ladle over some of the boiling water to cover. Let sit until the vegetables and brine are ready.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>While the jars are being sterilized, peel, shuck, and/or slice vegetables as needed to fit into jars. See above photographs for examples. You will need 2 pounds of prepped vegetables for the pickles. Save any extras for snacking.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Place tarragon leaves and stems in the center of a large piece of cheesecloth. Bring the corners of the cheesecloth together and tie the cheesecloth into a bundle around the tarragon using kitchen twine.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Combine the vinegar, water, sugar, and kosher salt in medium saucepan. Add the tarragon bundle. Bring the mixture to a boil, cover, and remove from the heat. Let brine steep until desired tarragon flavor is reached, 5 to 10 minutes. Remove tarragon bundle, squeezing the cheesecloth over the saucepan to remove any excess water. Cover the saucepan to keep warm and set aside.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Carefully remove the sterilized jars from the canning pot, allowing the water inside of the jars to fall back into the pot. Re-cover the pot and return the heat to high. Place the jars on a kitchen towel-lined counter or sheet pan. Working quickly (you want to pack the jars while they are still hot), divide garlic, peppercorns, fennel seeds, ginger, and red pepper flakes between the jars.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Pack the vegetables into the jars, fitting as many vegetables in as possible. They will shrink upon canning. Using the canning funnel, pour the hot brine over the pickles, leaving 1/2 inch headspace. Place the lids on the jars and screw the bands on until they are just closed (“finger-tip tight”).\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Using canning tongs, place the jars back into the canning pot. If it is not already boiling, bring the water back to a rolling boil.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Once the water has reached a full boil, set a timer for 5 minutes. After 5 minutes at a rolling boil, remove the jars from the pot and set back down on to the towel-lined counter. Let the jars cool completely before removing the bands and storing. If any jars fail to seal, store them in the fridge.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Bay Leaf Kitchen: Cooking and Farming Summer Camp for Kids ",
"title": "Bay Leaf Kitchen: Cooking and Farming Summer Camp for Kids ",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>Another round of LA-worthy days and nights is on its way. Memorial Day may be a week away, but this spate of outdoor-patio, grillin' and beerin' weather is a good reminder that, by the calendar, there's less than a month until school lets out. If you've got kids, you know what that means: entertainment, in the shape of day camps, local trips, and visits to the cousins and grandparents, needs to be arranged as soon as possible, for everyone's sanity and fun, especially yours. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_81359\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/IsaiahCossandEliannaFriedmanbyJoshLeskar700.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/IsaiahCossandEliannaFriedmanbyJoshLeskar700.jpg\" alt=\"Isaiah Coss and EliannaFriedman Photo: JoshLeskar\" width=\"300\" class=\"size-full wp-image-81359\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Isaiah Coss and EliannaFriedman Photo: JoshLeskar\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>And while there are specialty camps for everything from \u003ca href=\"http://thecrucible.org/youth-programs/\">glassblowing and blacksmithing\u003c/a> in Oakland to \u003ca href=\"http://bayareawritingproject.org/2014-young-writers-camps/\">digital storytelling\u003c/a> in San Francisco, camps that give kids hands-on cooking experience are becoming ever more popular. Who wouldn't want to outsource the mess when little Noah and Ellie learn to make their first kale salads? With cooking camps, kids bring home the skills--and hopefully, enthusiasm for new and healthy foods--and leave the spills and dirty pots and pans behind. Even better for busy parents, there's no lunch to pack, no dreaded snack duty, and no feigning enthusiasm at the sidelines of yet another no-score, \u003cem>but-Dad-she-tripped-me!\u003c/em> soccer game. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.bayleafkitchen.org/camp\">Bay Leaf Kitchen\u003c/a> is the latest entry into the kids' cooking-camp category. It's the healthy-eating, farm-to-table brainchild of director Elianna Friedman, formerly the market chef at \u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org\">CUESA\u003c/a> and now its culinary educator. At CUESA, she launched the free field-trip program \u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org/about-cuesa/programs/foodwise-kids\">Foodwise Kids\u003c/a> for San Francisco public school students at the Ferry Plaza farmers' markets, and helps coordinate school activities and outreach at the markets. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The idea for a summer cooking and farming camp came to her in November 2013. Since then, she's raised over ten thousand dollars in an IndieGoGo crowdfunding campaign, and is now registering campers (ages 9-12) for two week-long sessions, June 16-20 and July 21-25. Camp days run from 9am-4pm daily, with one overnight camp-out at the popular \u003ca href=\"http://www.eatwell.com/\">Eatwell Farm\u003c/a> in Winters. (Date night alert! \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.richtablesf.com/\">Rich Table\u003c/a>, dinner for two?)\u003c/em> Each class is limited to 28 students, broken down into small teams overseen by a staff of four or five counselors. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_81361\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/EatwellFarmbyNigelWalker.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/EatwellFarmbyNigelWalker.jpg\" alt=\"Eatwell Farm Photo: NigelWalker\" width=\"1000\" height=\"665\" class=\"size-full wp-image-81361\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Eatwell Farm Photo: NigelWalker\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_81360\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 252px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/GordonCamplejohnandEliannaFriedmanbyJoshLeskar700.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/GordonCamplejohnandEliannaFriedmanbyJoshLeskar700-252x290.jpg\" alt=\"Gordon Camplejohn and Elianna Friedman Photo: JoshLeskar\" width=\"252\" height=\"290\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-81360\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Gordon Camplejohn and Elianna Friedman Photo: JoshLeskar\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Working with the hundreds of kids who came through CUESA's hands-on programs in sustainable agriculture and farm-to-table cooking, Friedman learned that even the squirmiest kids wanted to learn (or at least eat a strawberry). How does a seed become a plant? How does a plant turn sunshine into food? Why are peaches sweet and peppers hot? Done right, a farm trip can be a living biology lesson, complete with plenty of excuses for getting dirty along the way. \"The market was such a natural classroom,\" said Friedman when we spoke with her last month. \"Kids loved to pick stuff out,\" and then eat the fruits and vegetables they'd discovered. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Part of having a good relationship with food is exploring it on your own,\" said Friedman. \"There's no wrong way to make a salad or a soup.\" (Presumably, Bay Leaf Kitchen's middle schoolers will not be tasked with following the full six-step \u003ca href=\"http://insidescoopsf.sfgate.com/blog/2013/11/06/behold-jeremiah-towers-brilliant-instructions-on-how-prep-lettuce-at-stars/\">Jeremiah Tower protocol\u003c/a> for washing lettuce at Stars.) And while there will be hands-on cooking and education, Friedman promises that the approach will let kids be \"wacky, silly, have a lot of fun, learn to explore and play in the kitchen,\" with time for free outdoor recreation in nearby parks as well as at the farm. Guest chefs from local restaurants and food businesses will share their expertise, while also being role models for those young \u003ca href=\"http://www.pbs.org/food/shows/\">food-show fans\u003c/a> who might be curious about cooking careers. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_81362\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 217px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/CowsatEatwellFarmbyNigelWalker.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/CowsatEatwellFarmbyNigelWalker-217x290.jpg\" alt=\"Cows at Eatwell Farm Photo: NigelWalker\" width=\"217\" height=\"290\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-81362\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cows at Eatwell Farm Photo: NigelWalker\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The highlight of the Monday-through-Friday program will be an overnight campout at Eatwell Farm, a 100-acre organic market farm that's run a busy produce stand and CSA program at the Ferry Plaza farmers' market for many years. The farm has animals--including cows, horses, and chickens--as well as a year-round variety of fruits, vegetables, and flowers (especially lavender) under cultivation. Friedman, who knows Eatwell owner Nigel Walker and his wife Lorraine, said the collaboration came together easily. \"It felt so natural. Lorraine had been wanting to run a kids' program. They have a lot of adult programs up at the farm already.\" Planned farm activities might including milking the cows, gathering eggs, and of course, harvesting vegetables for farm feasts. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The farm aspect is what really sets this camp apart, Friedman told us. Coming to the farm can help kids understand where their food comes from, an experience that can have a life-long impact. Sure, it's cool to have knife skills like Bobby Flay, but connecting a pesto pizza with the rain that opens a seed, the sunshine that nourishes it, the cow whose milk makes the cheese and the people who pick the basil and harvest the wheat? Now those are real life stories. \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "A new kids' cooking camp with a farming twist comes to the Bay Area. Stephanie Rosenbaum Klassen talks to former CUESA market chef Elianna Friedman about the launch of Bay Leaf Kitchen at the Ferry Building this summer. ",
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"description": "A new kids' cooking camp with a farming twist comes to the Bay Area. Stephanie Rosenbaum Klassen talks to former CUESA market chef Elianna Friedman about the launch of Bay Leaf Kitchen at the Ferry Building this summer. ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Another round of LA-worthy days and nights is on its way. Memorial Day may be a week away, but this spate of outdoor-patio, grillin' and beerin' weather is a good reminder that, by the calendar, there's less than a month until school lets out. If you've got kids, you know what that means: entertainment, in the shape of day camps, local trips, and visits to the cousins and grandparents, needs to be arranged as soon as possible, for everyone's sanity and fun, especially yours. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_81359\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/IsaiahCossandEliannaFriedmanbyJoshLeskar700.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/IsaiahCossandEliannaFriedmanbyJoshLeskar700.jpg\" alt=\"Isaiah Coss and EliannaFriedman Photo: JoshLeskar\" width=\"300\" class=\"size-full wp-image-81359\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Isaiah Coss and EliannaFriedman Photo: JoshLeskar\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>And while there are specialty camps for everything from \u003ca href=\"http://thecrucible.org/youth-programs/\">glassblowing and blacksmithing\u003c/a> in Oakland to \u003ca href=\"http://bayareawritingproject.org/2014-young-writers-camps/\">digital storytelling\u003c/a> in San Francisco, camps that give kids hands-on cooking experience are becoming ever more popular. Who wouldn't want to outsource the mess when little Noah and Ellie learn to make their first kale salads? With cooking camps, kids bring home the skills--and hopefully, enthusiasm for new and healthy foods--and leave the spills and dirty pots and pans behind. Even better for busy parents, there's no lunch to pack, no dreaded snack duty, and no feigning enthusiasm at the sidelines of yet another no-score, \u003cem>but-Dad-she-tripped-me!\u003c/em> soccer game. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.bayleafkitchen.org/camp\">Bay Leaf Kitchen\u003c/a> is the latest entry into the kids' cooking-camp category. It's the healthy-eating, farm-to-table brainchild of director Elianna Friedman, formerly the market chef at \u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org\">CUESA\u003c/a> and now its culinary educator. At CUESA, she launched the free field-trip program \u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org/about-cuesa/programs/foodwise-kids\">Foodwise Kids\u003c/a> for San Francisco public school students at the Ferry Plaza farmers' markets, and helps coordinate school activities and outreach at the markets. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The idea for a summer cooking and farming camp came to her in November 2013. Since then, she's raised over ten thousand dollars in an IndieGoGo crowdfunding campaign, and is now registering campers (ages 9-12) for two week-long sessions, June 16-20 and July 21-25. Camp days run from 9am-4pm daily, with one overnight camp-out at the popular \u003ca href=\"http://www.eatwell.com/\">Eatwell Farm\u003c/a> in Winters. (Date night alert! \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.richtablesf.com/\">Rich Table\u003c/a>, dinner for two?)\u003c/em> Each class is limited to 28 students, broken down into small teams overseen by a staff of four or five counselors. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_81361\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/EatwellFarmbyNigelWalker.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/EatwellFarmbyNigelWalker.jpg\" alt=\"Eatwell Farm Photo: NigelWalker\" width=\"1000\" height=\"665\" class=\"size-full wp-image-81361\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Eatwell Farm Photo: NigelWalker\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_81360\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 252px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/GordonCamplejohnandEliannaFriedmanbyJoshLeskar700.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/GordonCamplejohnandEliannaFriedmanbyJoshLeskar700-252x290.jpg\" alt=\"Gordon Camplejohn and Elianna Friedman Photo: JoshLeskar\" width=\"252\" height=\"290\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-81360\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Gordon Camplejohn and Elianna Friedman Photo: JoshLeskar\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Working with the hundreds of kids who came through CUESA's hands-on programs in sustainable agriculture and farm-to-table cooking, Friedman learned that even the squirmiest kids wanted to learn (or at least eat a strawberry). How does a seed become a plant? How does a plant turn sunshine into food? Why are peaches sweet and peppers hot? Done right, a farm trip can be a living biology lesson, complete with plenty of excuses for getting dirty along the way. \"The market was such a natural classroom,\" said Friedman when we spoke with her last month. \"Kids loved to pick stuff out,\" and then eat the fruits and vegetables they'd discovered. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Part of having a good relationship with food is exploring it on your own,\" said Friedman. \"There's no wrong way to make a salad or a soup.\" (Presumably, Bay Leaf Kitchen's middle schoolers will not be tasked with following the full six-step \u003ca href=\"http://insidescoopsf.sfgate.com/blog/2013/11/06/behold-jeremiah-towers-brilliant-instructions-on-how-prep-lettuce-at-stars/\">Jeremiah Tower protocol\u003c/a> for washing lettuce at Stars.) And while there will be hands-on cooking and education, Friedman promises that the approach will let kids be \"wacky, silly, have a lot of fun, learn to explore and play in the kitchen,\" with time for free outdoor recreation in nearby parks as well as at the farm. Guest chefs from local restaurants and food businesses will share their expertise, while also being role models for those young \u003ca href=\"http://www.pbs.org/food/shows/\">food-show fans\u003c/a> who might be curious about cooking careers. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_81362\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 217px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/CowsatEatwellFarmbyNigelWalker.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/CowsatEatwellFarmbyNigelWalker-217x290.jpg\" alt=\"Cows at Eatwell Farm Photo: NigelWalker\" width=\"217\" height=\"290\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-81362\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cows at Eatwell Farm Photo: NigelWalker\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The highlight of the Monday-through-Friday program will be an overnight campout at Eatwell Farm, a 100-acre organic market farm that's run a busy produce stand and CSA program at the Ferry Plaza farmers' market for many years. The farm has animals--including cows, horses, and chickens--as well as a year-round variety of fruits, vegetables, and flowers (especially lavender) under cultivation. Friedman, who knows Eatwell owner Nigel Walker and his wife Lorraine, said the collaboration came together easily. \"It felt so natural. Lorraine had been wanting to run a kids' program. They have a lot of adult programs up at the farm already.\" Planned farm activities might including milking the cows, gathering eggs, and of course, harvesting vegetables for farm feasts. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The farm aspect is what really sets this camp apart, Friedman told us. Coming to the farm can help kids understand where their food comes from, an experience that can have a life-long impact. Sure, it's cool to have knife skills like Bobby Flay, but connecting a pesto pizza with the rain that opens a seed, the sunshine that nourishes it, the cow whose milk makes the cheese and the people who pick the basil and harvest the wheat? Now those are real life stories. \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Open Secret's Radiance Cuisine: Food + Kirtan to Recharge Body, Mind and Spirit",
"title": "Open Secret's Radiance Cuisine: Food + Kirtan to Recharge Body, Mind and Spirit",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82022\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/radiance-band1000.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-82022\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/radiance-band1000.jpg\" alt=\"Radiance kirtan band playing at Open Secret Bookstore. \" width=\"1000\" height=\"559\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Radiance kirtan band playing at Open Secret Bookstore.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Photos and video by\u003c/em> \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/wendy-goodfriend/\">\u003cem>Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Who says spring cleaning is just about organizing closets and washing dirty windows? The change of seasons can also inspire us to take inventory of ourselves, pausing to purge some of the junk from our diets and clutter from our minds. Whether it’s a matter of curtailing your bacon intake or releasing stress pent up from sitting in traffic, a good way to kick-start a personal renewal process is to spend an evening eating, chanting and losing yourself in hypnotic rhythms at \u003ca href=\"http://www.opensecretbookstore.com/\">Open Secret Bookstore\u003c/a> in San Rafael.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[gallery type=\"slideshow\" link=\"none\" size=\"full\" ids=\"81996,81995,81994\"]\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82008\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/radiance-plate1000.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-82008\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/radiance-plate1000.jpg\" alt=\"Radiance Plate\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Radiance Plate\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>A Saturday evening at Open Secret might begin like mine did: seated at a supper club-style table, relishing every bite of food on my “Radiance Plate,” the vegan sampler dish served at the in-house cafe. It’s the kind of good-for-you food that makes me proclaim, “If all my meals tasted like this, I’d go vegan!” But the food was just the start of my nourishment. It was the preamble to a night of kirtan, a form of call and response chanting derived from ancient Indian scriptures that’s gained popularity thanks to “kirtaneer” superstars like \u003ca href=\"http://www.krishnadas.com/\">Krishna Das\u003c/a> and Marin County based \u003ca href=\"http://jaiuttal.com/\">Jai Uttal\u003c/a>. My own interest in kirtan was sparked by scientific studies that point to its therapeutic benefits, including \u003ca href=\"http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3099099/\">the power of chanting\u003c/a> to calm the nervous system and elevate our moods.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82012\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/robert-calef1000.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-82012\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/robert-calef1000-290x162.jpg\" alt=\"Robert Calef, founder of Open Secret Bookstore. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"290\" height=\"162\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Robert Calef, founder of Open Secret Bookstore.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Dinner and chanting events are among the many offerings that have helped Open Secret survive while other independent spiritual bookstores \u003ca href=\"http://articles.latimes.com/2011/dec/30/local/la-me-bodhi-20111231\">have been forced to shut down\u003c/a>. Celebrating its 25th anniversary this summer, Robert Calef founded Open Secret out of a desire to create a space for people of all spiritual persuasions to engage in what he calls \"sacred leisure.\" Besides browsing the overstuffed bookshelves that seem to line every wall of the labyrinthine store, other activity options include meditating in a lofty backroom filled with Himalayan art, tarot card readings (courtesy of Granny Rainbow) and an ever-changing roster of classes, talks and performances held in an adjoining space.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82014\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/granny-rainbow1000.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-82014\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/granny-rainbow1000-290x193.jpg\" alt=\"Granny Rainbow\" width=\"290\" height=\"193\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Granny Rainbow\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Calef knew from the start that the store would have to function as a multi-faceted community center to thrive, and offering food would be a critical part of the formula. “It had to be a space where we could feed body, mind and soul,” said Calef. Although their slow-cooked chai became an instant hit, they struggled to get the cafe part just right until four years ago when Calef invited local caterers \u003ca href=\"http://www.radiancecuisine.com/Site/Radiance_Cuisine.html\">Radiance Cuisine\u003c/a> to set up shop inside the bookstore, elevating the culinary offerings to new heights.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Everything on the Radiance Cuisine menu is organic, vegan and gluten-free. Ingredients may change daily depending on what’s available at farmers’ markets, but the roster always includes varying combinations of salad, vegetable curries, soups and grains.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82007\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/radiance-menu.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-82007\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/radiance-menu.jpg\" alt=\"Radiance menu\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Radiance menu\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>One section of my plate held crisp lettuces laced with radish, avocado, golden beets, roasted almonds, and a tangy-sweet dressing made with things like dates, capers, oranges and “more herbs than I can imagine,” according to one of the chefs. Next to that was a scoop of \u003ca href=\"http://massaorganics.com/\">Massa\u003c/a> Organics’ brown rice studded with currants. The rest of my plate was filled out with a curry of asparagus, cauliflower, broccoli, squash and potatoes. To make the curry, each of the vegetables was cooked separately and folded into a rich sauce made from a blend of tahini, cashews and caramelized vegetables.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82004\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 700px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/radiance-food700.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-82004\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/radiance-food700.jpg\" alt=\"Radiance Plate and Lemon-Ginger-Mint Cooler\" width=\"700\" height=\"1050\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Radiance Plate and Lemon-Ginger-Mint Cooler\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>I also gobbled up every last bite of a fragrant bowl of dal; a staple Indian soup. In this version, two forms of traditional dal were combined, resulting in a hearty brew of lentils, carrots, celery and fresh ground spices like cumin and coriander. Adding to my enjoyment of the dal – and the curry – was something that might disappoint others: no fire in my mouth except maybe a hint of pepper, enabling me to detect the diverse infusion of flavors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[gallery type=\"slideshow\" link=\"none\" size=\"full\" ids=\"82039,82010,82001\"]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I washed it all down with a “lemon cooler” made from fresh squeezed lemons, spearmint, and ginger and finished my meal off with a nibble of “Choco-Laddu.” This dense, lightly sweet treat – known affectionately by customers as “radiance crack” – is made from toasted chickpea flour and swirled with dark chocolate. It’s essentially a much healthier take on traditional laddu, an Indian confection typically made with loads of sugar and clarified butter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_81999\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/radhanath-kilimba1000.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-81999\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/radhanath-kilimba1000.jpg\" alt=\"Radhanath Alvarez and Kilimba G. Alvarez, chef/owners of Radiance Cuisine\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Radhanath Alvarez and Kilimba G. Alvarez, chef/owners of Radiance Cuisine\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>If you think all this seems like a complex culinary undertaking for purveyors of a tiny bookstore café, you are right. \u003ca href=\"http://www.radiancecuisine.com/Site/About_Us.html\">Jerry ‘Radhanath’ Alvarez and Kilimba G. Alvarez\u003c/a> are the husband and wife team behind Radiance Cuisine and they take cooking seriously, to say the least. Both are devotees of the deity Krishna (also written as “Krsna”), a branch of Hinduism dubbed “the kitchen religion” in the 1960s because of its emphasis on food as a means of connecting to the divine. The chefs take inspiration from a wide range of eastern and western traditions, but what guides their approach to making any dish is a perception of food preparation as an act of love and offering to Krishna. As Radhanath explained,\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>“We cook everything the same way a loving grandmother would for her grandchildren—from a place of love, using only the best possible ingredients.”\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>[gallery type=\"slideshow\" link=\"none\" size=\"full\" ids=\"82009,82002,82037\"]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Long before they met each other, Radhanath and Kilimba honed their cooking skills while living at different west coast ashrams where they had to \u003cem>earn\u003c/em> the privilege of entering the sacred kitchen. Radhanath later made his way to another ashram in Hawaii, and eventually opened his own restaurant in downtown Honolulu. Kilimba continued to nurture her culinary creativity and other artistic pursuits at international retreats and festivals.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As part of their devotional practice Radhanath and Kilimba also cultivated their musical talents, which brings us to part two of my evening. On the third Saturday of every month, both chefs exchange their aprons for instruments and sit on the stage floor along with a group of master musicians who join them for an hour-long kirtan jam. Guitar, bass, violin and percussion combine with the ethereal tones emanating from Kilimba’s harmonium to create a complex tapestry of sounds. But it’s the hypnotic and passionate drumming by Radhanath on his two-headed Indian \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mrdanga\">mrdanga\u003c/a> drum that really got under my skin and let me lose myself in the music.\u003cbr>\n[youtube //www.youtube.com/watch?v=dRAqvpZ4Xm4?start=392&version=3]\u003cbr>\nSong sheets are passed out to help audience members repeat the Sanskrit chants. As someone whose vocal skills leave much to be desired, I usually shy away from public singing. Relief washed over me when I saw that some people were just listening, eyes closed while moving their bodies to the beat. I did dare to join in at times (quietly), spurred by the promise of those benefits to my \u003ca href=\"http://health.usnews.com/health-news/blogs/eat-run/2013/10/02/your-brain-on-om-the-science-of-mantra\">brain\u003c/a> and emotional well-being.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Most of the songs are about Krishna, but as Kilimba explained, many of the words and stories invoke universal themes relevant to people of all faiths. The same goes for the food. “Although the food is vegan, about 80% of our customers are omnivores,” said Kilimba. “After having lunch here, they may go home and eat a giant pork chop for dinner – and that’s totally fine.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are no prerequisites or judgments here, just an open invitation to enjoy some good food and music to help loosen the cobwebs in our bellies, hearts and minds.\u003cbr>\n[youtube //www.youtube.com/watch?v=vpRIJYXh9TA]\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Information:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.radiancecuisine.com/Site/Radiance_Cuisine.html\">Radiance Cuisine\u003c/a> at Open Secret Bookstore\u003cbr>\nAddress: \u003ca href=\"http://goo.gl/bBPmuO\">Map\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n923 C Street\u003cbr>\nSan Rafael, CA 94901\u003cbr>\nPhone: (415) 686-3442\u003cbr>\nHours: Wed-Sat 12pm-7pm\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/pages/Radiance-Cuisine/351100510287\">Radiance Cuisine\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/pages/Radiance-Kirtan/317321304967501\">Radiance Kirtan\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Next Radiance Kirtan at Open Secret:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nRadiance Kirtan with Radhanath, Kilimba and Friends\u003cbr>\nSaturday, May 17, 7:30-9:30pm\u003cbr>\nKirtan including Radiance dinner $20\u003cbr>\nKirtan only $10- $25 donation at the door\u003cbr>\n(Come early for dinner with Radiance Cuisine. They sometimes run out of food on kirtan nights. Dinner is served from 5:00-7:00pm)\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82022\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/radiance-band1000.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-82022\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/radiance-band1000.jpg\" alt=\"Radiance kirtan band playing at Open Secret Bookstore. \" width=\"1000\" height=\"559\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Radiance kirtan band playing at Open Secret Bookstore.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Photos and video by\u003c/em> \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/wendy-goodfriend/\">\u003cem>Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Who says spring cleaning is just about organizing closets and washing dirty windows? The change of seasons can also inspire us to take inventory of ourselves, pausing to purge some of the junk from our diets and clutter from our minds. Whether it’s a matter of curtailing your bacon intake or releasing stress pent up from sitting in traffic, a good way to kick-start a personal renewal process is to spend an evening eating, chanting and losing yourself in hypnotic rhythms at \u003ca href=\"http://www.opensecretbookstore.com/\">Open Secret Bookstore\u003c/a> in San Rafael.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82008\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/radiance-plate1000.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-82008\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/radiance-plate1000.jpg\" alt=\"Radiance Plate\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Radiance Plate\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>A Saturday evening at Open Secret might begin like mine did: seated at a supper club-style table, relishing every bite of food on my “Radiance Plate,” the vegan sampler dish served at the in-house cafe. It’s the kind of good-for-you food that makes me proclaim, “If all my meals tasted like this, I’d go vegan!” But the food was just the start of my nourishment. It was the preamble to a night of kirtan, a form of call and response chanting derived from ancient Indian scriptures that’s gained popularity thanks to “kirtaneer” superstars like \u003ca href=\"http://www.krishnadas.com/\">Krishna Das\u003c/a> and Marin County based \u003ca href=\"http://jaiuttal.com/\">Jai Uttal\u003c/a>. My own interest in kirtan was sparked by scientific studies that point to its therapeutic benefits, including \u003ca href=\"http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3099099/\">the power of chanting\u003c/a> to calm the nervous system and elevate our moods.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82012\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/robert-calef1000.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-82012\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/robert-calef1000-290x162.jpg\" alt=\"Robert Calef, founder of Open Secret Bookstore. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"290\" height=\"162\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Robert Calef, founder of Open Secret Bookstore.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Dinner and chanting events are among the many offerings that have helped Open Secret survive while other independent spiritual bookstores \u003ca href=\"http://articles.latimes.com/2011/dec/30/local/la-me-bodhi-20111231\">have been forced to shut down\u003c/a>. Celebrating its 25th anniversary this summer, Robert Calef founded Open Secret out of a desire to create a space for people of all spiritual persuasions to engage in what he calls \"sacred leisure.\" Besides browsing the overstuffed bookshelves that seem to line every wall of the labyrinthine store, other activity options include meditating in a lofty backroom filled with Himalayan art, tarot card readings (courtesy of Granny Rainbow) and an ever-changing roster of classes, talks and performances held in an adjoining space.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82014\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/granny-rainbow1000.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-82014\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/granny-rainbow1000-290x193.jpg\" alt=\"Granny Rainbow\" width=\"290\" height=\"193\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Granny Rainbow\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Calef knew from the start that the store would have to function as a multi-faceted community center to thrive, and offering food would be a critical part of the formula. “It had to be a space where we could feed body, mind and soul,” said Calef. Although their slow-cooked chai became an instant hit, they struggled to get the cafe part just right until four years ago when Calef invited local caterers \u003ca href=\"http://www.radiancecuisine.com/Site/Radiance_Cuisine.html\">Radiance Cuisine\u003c/a> to set up shop inside the bookstore, elevating the culinary offerings to new heights.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Everything on the Radiance Cuisine menu is organic, vegan and gluten-free. Ingredients may change daily depending on what’s available at farmers’ markets, but the roster always includes varying combinations of salad, vegetable curries, soups and grains.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82007\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/radiance-menu.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-82007\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/radiance-menu.jpg\" alt=\"Radiance menu\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Radiance menu\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>One section of my plate held crisp lettuces laced with radish, avocado, golden beets, roasted almonds, and a tangy-sweet dressing made with things like dates, capers, oranges and “more herbs than I can imagine,” according to one of the chefs. Next to that was a scoop of \u003ca href=\"http://massaorganics.com/\">Massa\u003c/a> Organics’ brown rice studded with currants. The rest of my plate was filled out with a curry of asparagus, cauliflower, broccoli, squash and potatoes. To make the curry, each of the vegetables was cooked separately and folded into a rich sauce made from a blend of tahini, cashews and caramelized vegetables.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82004\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 700px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/radiance-food700.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-82004\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/radiance-food700.jpg\" alt=\"Radiance Plate and Lemon-Ginger-Mint Cooler\" width=\"700\" height=\"1050\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Radiance Plate and Lemon-Ginger-Mint Cooler\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>I also gobbled up every last bite of a fragrant bowl of dal; a staple Indian soup. In this version, two forms of traditional dal were combined, resulting in a hearty brew of lentils, carrots, celery and fresh ground spices like cumin and coriander. Adding to my enjoyment of the dal – and the curry – was something that might disappoint others: no fire in my mouth except maybe a hint of pepper, enabling me to detect the diverse infusion of flavors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I washed it all down with a “lemon cooler” made from fresh squeezed lemons, spearmint, and ginger and finished my meal off with a nibble of “Choco-Laddu.” This dense, lightly sweet treat – known affectionately by customers as “radiance crack” – is made from toasted chickpea flour and swirled with dark chocolate. It’s essentially a much healthier take on traditional laddu, an Indian confection typically made with loads of sugar and clarified butter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_81999\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/radhanath-kilimba1000.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-81999\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/radhanath-kilimba1000.jpg\" alt=\"Radhanath Alvarez and Kilimba G. Alvarez, chef/owners of Radiance Cuisine\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Radhanath Alvarez and Kilimba G. Alvarez, chef/owners of Radiance Cuisine\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>If you think all this seems like a complex culinary undertaking for purveyors of a tiny bookstore café, you are right. \u003ca href=\"http://www.radiancecuisine.com/Site/About_Us.html\">Jerry ‘Radhanath’ Alvarez and Kilimba G. Alvarez\u003c/a> are the husband and wife team behind Radiance Cuisine and they take cooking seriously, to say the least. Both are devotees of the deity Krishna (also written as “Krsna”), a branch of Hinduism dubbed “the kitchen religion” in the 1960s because of its emphasis on food as a means of connecting to the divine. The chefs take inspiration from a wide range of eastern and western traditions, but what guides their approach to making any dish is a perception of food preparation as an act of love and offering to Krishna. As Radhanath explained,\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>“We cook everything the same way a loving grandmother would for her grandchildren—from a place of love, using only the best possible ingredients.”\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Long before they met each other, Radhanath and Kilimba honed their cooking skills while living at different west coast ashrams where they had to \u003cem>earn\u003c/em> the privilege of entering the sacred kitchen. Radhanath later made his way to another ashram in Hawaii, and eventually opened his own restaurant in downtown Honolulu. Kilimba continued to nurture her culinary creativity and other artistic pursuits at international retreats and festivals.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As part of their devotional practice Radhanath and Kilimba also cultivated their musical talents, which brings us to part two of my evening. On the third Saturday of every month, both chefs exchange their aprons for instruments and sit on the stage floor along with a group of master musicians who join them for an hour-long kirtan jam. Guitar, bass, violin and percussion combine with the ethereal tones emanating from Kilimba’s harmonium to create a complex tapestry of sounds. But it’s the hypnotic and passionate drumming by Radhanath on his two-headed Indian \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mrdanga\">mrdanga\u003c/a> drum that really got under my skin and let me lose myself in the music.\u003cbr>\n\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/dRAqvpZ4Xm4?start=392'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/dRAqvpZ4Xm4?start=392'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cbr>\nSong sheets are passed out to help audience members repeat the Sanskrit chants. As someone whose vocal skills leave much to be desired, I usually shy away from public singing. Relief washed over me when I saw that some people were just listening, eyes closed while moving their bodies to the beat. I did dare to join in at times (quietly), spurred by the promise of those benefits to my \u003ca href=\"http://health.usnews.com/health-news/blogs/eat-run/2013/10/02/your-brain-on-om-the-science-of-mantra\">brain\u003c/a> and emotional well-being.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Most of the songs are about Krishna, but as Kilimba explained, many of the words and stories invoke universal themes relevant to people of all faiths. The same goes for the food. “Although the food is vegan, about 80% of our customers are omnivores,” said Kilimba. “After having lunch here, they may go home and eat a giant pork chop for dinner – and that’s totally fine.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are no prerequisites or judgments here, just an open invitation to enjoy some good food and music to help loosen the cobwebs in our bellies, hearts and minds.\u003cbr>\n\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/vpRIJYXh9TA'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/vpRIJYXh9TA'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Information:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.radiancecuisine.com/Site/Radiance_Cuisine.html\">Radiance Cuisine\u003c/a> at Open Secret Bookstore\u003cbr>\nAddress: \u003ca href=\"http://goo.gl/bBPmuO\">Map\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n923 C Street\u003cbr>\nSan Rafael, CA 94901\u003cbr>\nPhone: (415) 686-3442\u003cbr>\nHours: Wed-Sat 12pm-7pm\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/pages/Radiance-Cuisine/351100510287\">Radiance Cuisine\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/pages/Radiance-Kirtan/317321304967501\">Radiance Kirtan\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Next Radiance Kirtan at Open Secret:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nRadiance Kirtan with Radhanath, Kilimba and Friends\u003cbr>\nSaturday, May 17, 7:30-9:30pm\u003cbr>\nKirtan including Radiance dinner $20\u003cbr>\nKirtan only $10- $25 donation at the door\u003cbr>\n(Come early for dinner with Radiance Cuisine. They sometimes run out of food on kirtan nights. Dinner is served from 5:00-7:00pm)\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"tagline": "The flip side of gentrification, told through one town",
"info": "Gentrification is changing cities across America, forcing people from neighborhoods they have long called home. Call them the displaced. Now those priced out of the Bay Area are looking for a better life in an unlikely place. American Suburb follows this migration to one California town along the Delta, 45 miles from San Francisco. But is this once sleepy suburb ready for them?",
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"order": 19
},
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?mt=2&id=1287748328",
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"rss": "https://ww2.kqed.org/news/series/american-suburb-podcast/feed/podcast",
"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkMzMDExODgxNjA5"
}
},
"baycurious": {
"id": "baycurious",
"title": "Bay Curious",
"tagline": "Exploring the Bay Area, one question at a time",
"info": "KQED’s new podcast, Bay Curious, gets to the bottom of the mysteries — both profound and peculiar — that give the Bay Area its unique identity. And we’ll do it with your help! You ask the questions. You decide what Bay Curious investigates. And you join us on the journey to find the answers.",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Bay-Curious-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
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"order": 3
},
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}
},
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"info": "The day's top stories from BBC News compiled twice daily in the week, once at weekends.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 9pm-10pm, TUE-FRI 1am-2am",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/BBC-World-Service-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
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"source": "BBC World Service"
},
"link": "/radio/program/bbc-world-service",
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"rss": "https://podcasts.files.bbci.co.uk/p02nq0gn.rss"
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},
"californiareport": {
"id": "californiareport",
"title": "The California Report",
"tagline": "California, day by day",
"info": "KQED’s statewide radio news program providing daily coverage of issues, trends and public policy decisions.",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/The-California-Report-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "/californiareport",
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"source": "kqed",
"order": 8
},
"link": "/californiareport",
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}
},
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"id": "californiareportmagazine",
"title": "The California Report Magazine",
"tagline": "Your state, your stories",
"info": "Every week, The California Report Magazine takes you on a road trip for the ears: to visit the places and meet the people who make California unique. The in-depth storytelling podcast from the California Report.",
"airtime": "FRI 4:30pm-5pm, 6:30pm-7pm, 11pm-11:30pm",
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"order": 10
},
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM3NjkwNjk1OTAz",
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},
"city-arts": {
"id": "city-arts",
"title": "City Arts & Lectures",
"info": "A one-hour radio program to hear celebrated writers, artists and thinkers address contemporary ideas and values, often discussing the creative process. Please note: tapes or transcripts are not available",
"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/05/cityartsandlecture-300x300.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.cityarts.net/",
"airtime": "SUN 1pm-2pm, TUE 10pm, WED 1am",
"meta": {
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"source": "City Arts & Lectures"
},
"link": "https://www.cityarts.net",
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"tuneIn": "https://tunein.com/radio/City-Arts-and-Lectures-p692/",
"rss": "https://www.cityarts.net/feed/"
}
},
"closealltabs": {
"id": "closealltabs",
"title": "Close All Tabs",
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"info": "Close All Tabs breaks down how digital culture shapes our world through thoughtful insights and irreverent humor.",
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"order": 1
},
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"code-switch-life-kit": {
"id": "code-switch-life-kit",
"title": "Code Switch / Life Kit",
"info": "\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em>, which listeners will hear in the first part of the hour, has fearless and much-needed conversations about race. Hosted by journalists of color, the show tackles the subject of race head-on, exploring how it impacts every part of society — from politics and pop culture to history, sports and more.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em>, which will be in the second part of the hour, guides you through spaces and feelings no one prepares you for — from finances to mental health, from workplace microaggressions to imposter syndrome, from relationships to parenting. The show features experts with real world experience and shares their knowledge. Because everyone needs a little help being human.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/510312/codeswitch\">\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/lifekit\">\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />",
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"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Code-Switch-Life-Kit-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
"meta": {
"site": "radio",
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},
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cubnByLm9yZy9yc3MvcG9kY2FzdC5waHA_aWQ9NTEwMzEy",
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},
"commonwealth-club": {
"id": "commonwealth-club",
"title": "Commonwealth Club of California Podcast",
"info": "The Commonwealth Club of California is the nation's oldest and largest public affairs forum. As a non-partisan forum, The Club brings to the public airwaves diverse viewpoints on important topics. The Club's weekly radio broadcast - the oldest in the U.S., dating back to 1924 - is carried across the nation on public radio stations and is now podcasting. Our website archive features audio of our recent programs, as well as selected speeches from our long and distinguished history. This podcast feed is usually updated twice a week and is always un-edited.",
"airtime": "THU 10pm, FRI 1am",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Commonwealth-Club-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
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"meta": {
"site": "news",
"source": "Commonwealth Club of California"
},
"link": "/radio/program/commonwealth-club",
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/commonwealth-club-of-california-podcast/id976334034?mt=2",
"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cDovL3d3dy5jb21tb253ZWFsdGhjbHViLm9yZy9hdWRpby9wb2RjYXN0L3dlZWtseS54bWw",
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}
},
"forum": {
"id": "forum",
"title": "Forum",
"tagline": "The conversation starts here",
"info": "KQED’s live call-in program discussing local, state, national and international issues, as well as in-depth interviews.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 9am-11am, 10pm-11pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Forum-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
"imageAlt": "KQED Forum with Mina Kim and Alexis Madrigal",
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"meta": {
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"source": "kqed",
"order": 9
},
"link": "/forum",
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM5NTU3MzgxNjMz",
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},
"freakonomics-radio": {
"id": "freakonomics-radio",
"title": "Freakonomics Radio",
"info": "Freakonomics Radio is a one-hour award-winning podcast and public-radio project hosted by Stephen Dubner, with co-author Steve Levitt as a regular guest. It is produced in partnership with WNYC.",
"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/05/freakonomicsRadio.png",
"officialWebsiteLink": "http://freakonomics.com/",
"airtime": "SUN 1am-2am, SAT 3pm-4pm",
"meta": {
"site": "radio",
"source": "WNYC"
},
"link": "/radio/program/freakonomics-radio",
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"tuneIn": "https://tunein.com/podcasts/WNYC-Podcasts/Freakonomics-Radio-p272293/",
"rss": "https://feeds.feedburner.com/freakonomicsradio"
}
},
"fresh-air": {
"id": "fresh-air",
"title": "Fresh Air",
"info": "Hosted by Terry Gross, \u003cem>Fresh Air from WHYY\u003c/em> is the Peabody Award-winning weekday magazine of contemporary arts and issues. One of public radio's most popular programs, Fresh Air features intimate conversations with today's biggest luminaries.",
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"title": "Here & Now",
"info": "A live production of NPR and WBUR Boston, in collaboration with stations across the country, Here & Now reflects the fluid world of news as it's happening in the middle of the day, with timely, in-depth news, interviews and conversation. Hosted by Robin Young, Jeremy Hobson and Tonya Mosley.",
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},
"hidden-brain": {
"id": "hidden-brain",
"title": "Hidden Brain",
"info": "Shankar Vedantam uses science and storytelling to reveal the unconscious patterns that drive human behavior, shape our choices and direct our relationships.",
"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/05/hiddenbrain.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.npr.org/series/423302056/hidden-brain",
"airtime": "SUN 7pm-8pm",
"meta": {
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"source": "NPR"
},
"link": "/radio/program/hidden-brain",
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"how-i-built-this": {
"id": "how-i-built-this",
"title": "How I Built This with Guy Raz",
"info": "Guy Raz dives into the stories behind some of the world's best known companies. How I Built This weaves a narrative journey about innovators, entrepreneurs and idealists—and the movements they built.",
"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/05/howIBuiltThis.png",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.npr.org/podcasts/510313/how-i-built-this",
"airtime": "SUN 7:30pm-8pm",
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"link": "/radio/program/how-i-built-this",
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"hyphenacion": {
"id": "hyphenacion",
"title": "Hyphenación",
"tagline": "Where conversation and cultura meet",
"info": "What kind of no sabo word is Hyphenación? For us, it’s about living within a hyphenation. Like being a third-gen Mexican-American from the Texas border now living that Bay Area Chicano life. Like Xorje! Each week we bring together a couple of hyphenated Latinos to talk all about personal life choices: family, careers, relationships, belonging … everything is on the table. ",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2025/03/Hyphenacion_FinalAssets_PodcastTile.png",
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"order": 15
},
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},
"jerrybrown": {
"id": "jerrybrown",
"title": "The Political Mind of Jerry Brown",
"tagline": "Lessons from a lifetime in politics",
"info": "The Political Mind of Jerry Brown brings listeners the wisdom of the former Governor, Mayor, and presidential candidate. Scott Shafer interviewed Brown for more than 40 hours, covering the former governor's life and half-century in the political game – and Brown has some lessons he'd like to share. ",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/The-Political-Mind-of-Jerry-Brown-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
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"order": 18
},
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}
},
"latino-usa": {
"id": "latino-usa",
"title": "Latino USA",
"airtime": "MON 1am-2am, SUN 6pm-7pm",
"info": "Latino USA, the radio journal of news and culture, is the only national, English-language radio program produced from a Latino perspective.",
"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/latinoUsa.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "http://latinousa.org/",
"meta": {
"site": "news",
"source": "npr"
},
"link": "/radio/program/latino-usa",
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=79681317&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory",
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"rss": "https://feeds.npr.org/510016/podcast.xml"
}
},
"marketplace": {
"id": "marketplace",
"title": "Marketplace",
"info": "Our flagship program, helmed by Kai Ryssdal, examines what the day in money delivered, through stories, conversations, newsworthy numbers and more. Updated Monday through Friday at about 3:30 p.m. PT.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 4pm-4:30pm, MON-WED 6:30pm-7pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Marketplace-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.marketplace.org/",
"meta": {
"site": "news",
"source": "American Public Media"
},
"link": "/radio/program/marketplace",
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"rss": "https://feeds.publicradio.org/public_feeds/marketplace-pm/rss/rss"
}
},
"masters-of-scale": {
"id": "masters-of-scale",
"title": "Masters of Scale",
"info": "Masters of Scale is an original podcast in which LinkedIn co-founder and Greylock Partner Reid Hoffman sets out to describe and prove theories that explain how great entrepreneurs take their companies from zero to a gazillion in ingenious fashion.",
"airtime": "Every other Wednesday June 12 through October 16 at 8pm (repeats Thursdays at 2am)",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Masters-of-Scale-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://mastersofscale.com/",
"meta": {
"site": "radio",
"source": "WaitWhat"
},
"link": "/radio/program/masters-of-scale",
"subscribe": {
"apple": "http://mastersofscale.app.link/",
"rss": "https://rss.art19.com/masters-of-scale"
}
},
"mindshift": {
"id": "mindshift",
"title": "MindShift",
"tagline": "A podcast about the future of learning and how we raise our kids",
"info": "The MindShift podcast explores the innovations in education that are shaping how kids learn. Hosts Ki Sung and Katrina Schwartz introduce listeners to educators, researchers, parents and students who are developing effective ways to improve how kids learn. We cover topics like how fed-up administrators are developing surprising tactics to deal with classroom disruptions; how listening to podcasts are helping kids develop reading skills; the consequences of overparenting; and why interdisciplinary learning can engage students on all ends of the traditional achievement spectrum. This podcast is part of the MindShift education site, a division of KQED News. KQED is an NPR/PBS member station based in San Francisco. You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Mindshift-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
"imageAlt": "KQED MindShift: How We Will Learn",
"officialWebsiteLink": "/mindshift/",
"meta": {
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"source": "kqed",
"order": 12
},
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