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"disqusTitle": "Restaurant Le Cinq à l’Hôtel Four Seasons George V",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>This is the second best meal I have ever had. In my whole life. Ever. Period.\u003c/strong> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Believe it or not, this meal occurred the same weekend as the \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2005/09/lambroisie.jsp\">\u003cstrong>l’Ambroisie gastronomic extravaganza\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>. When my friends came to town, they requested that I make reservations at the best restaurants I could get us in to for as many meals as I could–not a problem! Happy to oblige 🙂\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The weekend was a veritable food frenzy that would have made Bacchus himself jealous. Each restaurant was an event, a destination, an unveiling of the most spectacular, stunningly brilliant, visually breathtaking, sensually aromatic, sinfully decadent, lavish meals I have ever had and perhaps ever will have. They fall in the once-in-a-lifetime, all-the-planets-are-in-alignment, the-sea-has-parted-where-is-Moses category of meals. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So we concluded the celebration of my pals’ victory in a landmark case against the UNITED STATES OF AMERICA, INTERVENOR (as the Court’s Order read) at the 3-Michelin starred \u003cstrong>Le Cinq\u003c/strong> (pronounced: le sank; meaning: five) in the \u003cstrong>Four Seasons George V Hotel\u003c/strong>. It was an especially exhilarating meal as I had just finished my internship at Le Cinq two days earlier and had made many of the dishes we were about to be served. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/georgev_flowers2a.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One can’t talk about dining at Le Cinq without talking about the hotel itself, voted the #1 hotel in the world (!) in 2004, and after a two year, $125 million renovation, it is luxury and grandeur at its finest. To enter the George V, you whirl through the revolving doors at into the marble lobby and are greeting by the most dramatic floral display imaginable. \u003ca href=\"http://jeffleatham.com/\">\u003cstrong>Artistic director Jeff Leatham\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>, voted best florist in Europe in 2003 and 2004, creates visually stunning arrangements that defy any tradition or norm. Flocks of visitors trek to the George V simply to see the latest floral displays which Jeff changes weekly with over 10,000 flowers flown in twice-weekly from Amsterdam. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/georgev_flowers5_entry_a.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Entering the dining room is a humbling experience as the splendor and beauty take your breath away. It’s impossible to take it all in at once. You must savor a corner here, a painting there, bit by bit. Sixty people each evening put themselves into the hands of the inimitable Chef Legendre and come away dazzled by the experience. We certainly were. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/georgev_diningroom.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to the \u003ca href=\"http://travel2.nytimes.com/top/features/travel/destinations/europe/france/paris/restaurant_details.html?vid=1083747021624\">\u003cstrong>New York Times\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>, \u003cstrong>Le Cinq\u003c/strong> is “...\u003cem>a fitting stage set for chef Philippe Legendre. Formerly a legend at Taillevent, he is clearly thriving in these kitchens. Occasionally, the luxe menu (line-caught turbot with pumpkin-and-grapefruit marmalade, a licorice-infused pear cube with Szechuan pepper ice cream) is brought back down to earth by such selections as grouse and haggis in an aged Scotch whiskey sauce\u003c/em>...” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Not only were we not brought down to earth, we thought we’d been beamed up to the far reaches of heaven so magical that to speak of it would be to desecrate it. So please join me as I try to share, though words and pictures sadly fall far short, this galactic gastronomic journey on the first day of their autumn menu.... Bon appetit!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>* \u003ca href=\"http://www.champagne-billecart.fr/\">\u003cstrong>Champagne Billecart–Salmon Collection Millésime\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Amuse-bouches\u003c/strong> ~ \u003cem>A duo of small starters; the first a cube of the freshest sashimi tuna sprinkled with toasted sesame seeds resting on a perfect mâche leaf, the second a savory “strudel” of sorts filled with a chestnut puree\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg> \u003cimg>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>* \u003ca href=\"http://www.bbr.com/US/db/producer/912/Michel-Niellon?ID=null\">\u003cstrong>Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru «Clos St Jean » 2000 Domaine Niellon\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> ~ a white wine made from the Chardonnay grape in the Côte de Beaune region of Burgundy, France\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Tartare de coquilles St Jacques avec caviar Osciètre\u003c/strong> ~ \u003cem>A perfect scallop topped with Osetra caviar on three perfect mâche leaves and a dollop of a light horseradish crème fraîche\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/georgev_scallop.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>«Tarialini a la fonduta » et à la truffe d’Alba\u003c/strong> ~ \u003cem>Fresh housemade angelhair pasta with shaved truffles from Alba, Italy \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/georgev_tarialini.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Poireau cuit à la ficelle aux saveurs d’automne et à la truffe\u003c/strong> ~ \u003cem>Leeks cooked with the flavors of automn and truffles\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/georgev_poireau.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Homard Breton en coque fumé et rôti aux châtaignes de Corrèze\u003c/strong> ~ \u003cem>Brittany lobster smoked and roasted with a puree of chestnuts from Corrèze\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/georgev_idontknow1.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Dos de Turbot rôti aux topinambours et au lard de Toscane à la crème truffée\u003c/strong> ~ \u003cem>Filet of Turbo roasted with Jerusalem artichokes and Tuscan bacon with a truffle cream sauce\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/georgev_fish1_turbo.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lucy doesn’t eat meat so the chef sent out another fish plate: \u003cem>Ligne de Bar (line caught sea bass) with a confetti of diced sautéed vegetables\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/georgev_fish2.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> * \u003cstrong>Chateauneuf du Pape Domaine du Vieux Donjon 1999\u003c/strong> ~ a red wine from the premier appellation of the Southern Rhône Valley as decanted by our enchanting sommeliers...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/georgev_somelier3_decanting.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Noisette de chevreuil de Sologne au chocolat, sauce poivrade\u003c/strong> ~ \u003cem>Venison from Sologne with a chocolate pepper sauce\u003c/em> (Editors’ note: This was my favorite dish. I’d never had venison -- that I was aware of -- and this knocked my socks off...and I wasn’t wearing socks. The venison was encrusted with crushed chocolate-nougat in a chocolate pepper sauce that sent my taste buds dancing the two-step.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/georgev_venison1.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>La sélection de nos Paîtres fromagers\u003c/strong> ~ Cheese selection from the Master Fromagiers\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/georgev_fromage_cart.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Our charming, delightful, handsome waiters. Christophe, on the right, attended school for SIX years to prepare for this job. He had two years of culinary training, two years of hotel training and – get this! – two years of fine cutlery service! Oooh la la! \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/georgev_fromage_cart2.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> * \u003ca href=\"http://www.kleinconstantia.com/winedisplay6.asp?id=4\">\u003cstrong>Klein Constancia 1998 Sauvignon Blanc\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> ~ a dessert wine from South Africa \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Croquant aux agrumes et épices douces\u003c/strong> ~ \u003cem>A merignue cup of citrus segments with a soft spice sauce\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/georgev_dessert3_citrus.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Du chocolate exclusivement...\u003c/strong> ~ \u003cem>Exclusively chocolate...\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/georgev_dessert2_chocolate.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>and because I had just finished my internship in these hallowed kitchens 2 days earlier...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/georgev_lucy_steve_francois.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>...pastry sous-chef Francois (above with Lucy and Steve) sent us out *every* dessert on the menu! Oh. My. God. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Parfait des framboises\u003c/strong> ~ \u003cem>Raspberry parfait\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/georgev_dessert1_raspberrie.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Tiramisu Le Cinq\u003c/strong> ~ \u003cem>Le Cinq’s version of a tiramisu that won first prize in a national pastry competition\u003c/em>. To get the effect of the chocolate on bottom left corner of the plate, they freeze the plates then literally, with a high powered paint gun, spray paint the plate with chocolate to give it a velvet texture! C'est incroyable!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/georgev_dessert4_tiramisu.jpg\"> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Chocolate soufflé\u003c/strong> ~ \u003cem>no explanation needed!\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/georgev_dessert5_souffle.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Fruits d’automne\u003c/strong> ~ \u003cem>Roasted autumn fruit with a nougat tuile\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/georgev_dessert6_fruits.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Pâte à fruits et nougatine\u003c/strong> ~ \u003cem>Passionfruit and raspberry fruit jellies and nougat\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/georgev_dessert8_pate_fruit_a.jpg\"> \u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/georgev_dessert9_nougat_a.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Truffes du chocolat et guimauves\u003c/strong> ~ Chocolate truffles and fresh marshmallows (“guimauve”, pronounced gwee-mov, is one of my favorite French words, I love saying it. gwee-mov. gwee-mov. gwee-mov.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And so I hope you enjoyed our brief culinary journey through dinner at a 3 Michelin star restaurant in one of, if not the best, hotel in the world. Anyone hungry? 😉\u003cbr>_________________________________\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.fourseasons.com/paris/celebrations/dining_77.html\">\u003cstrong>Le Cinq\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> \u003cbr>\u003cstrong>Hotel Four Seasons George V\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>31, avenue George V\u003cbr>75008 Paris\u003cbr>+33 1 49 52 70 00\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Philippe Legendre\u003c/strong>, Chef des Cuisines, Meilleur Ouvrier de France\u003cbr>\u003cstrong>Eric Beaumard\u003c/strong>, Directeur de Restaurant\u003cbr>\u003cstrong>Enrico Bernardo\u003c/strong>, Chef Sommelier, Meilleur Sommelier du Monde\u003cbr>\u003cstrong>Jeffrey Leatham\u003c/strong>, Artistic Director\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Lucy and Christophe\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\u003cimg>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>This is the second best meal I have ever had. In my whole life. Ever. Period.\u003c/strong> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Believe it or not, this meal occurred the same weekend as the \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2005/09/lambroisie.jsp\">\u003cstrong>l’Ambroisie gastronomic extravaganza\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>. When my friends came to town, they requested that I make reservations at the best restaurants I could get us in to for as many meals as I could–not a problem! Happy to oblige 🙂\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The weekend was a veritable food frenzy that would have made Bacchus himself jealous. Each restaurant was an event, a destination, an unveiling of the most spectacular, stunningly brilliant, visually breathtaking, sensually aromatic, sinfully decadent, lavish meals I have ever had and perhaps ever will have. They fall in the once-in-a-lifetime, all-the-planets-are-in-alignment, the-sea-has-parted-where-is-Moses category of meals. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So we concluded the celebration of my pals’ victory in a landmark case against the UNITED STATES OF AMERICA, INTERVENOR (as the Court’s Order read) at the 3-Michelin starred \u003cstrong>Le Cinq\u003c/strong> (pronounced: le sank; meaning: five) in the \u003cstrong>Four Seasons George V Hotel\u003c/strong>. It was an especially exhilarating meal as I had just finished my internship at Le Cinq two days earlier and had made many of the dishes we were about to be served. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/georgev_flowers2a.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One can’t talk about dining at Le Cinq without talking about the hotel itself, voted the #1 hotel in the world (!) in 2004, and after a two year, $125 million renovation, it is luxury and grandeur at its finest. To enter the George V, you whirl through the revolving doors at into the marble lobby and are greeting by the most dramatic floral display imaginable. \u003ca href=\"http://jeffleatham.com/\">\u003cstrong>Artistic director Jeff Leatham\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>, voted best florist in Europe in 2003 and 2004, creates visually stunning arrangements that defy any tradition or norm. Flocks of visitors trek to the George V simply to see the latest floral displays which Jeff changes weekly with over 10,000 flowers flown in twice-weekly from Amsterdam. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/georgev_flowers5_entry_a.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Entering the dining room is a humbling experience as the splendor and beauty take your breath away. It’s impossible to take it all in at once. You must savor a corner here, a painting there, bit by bit. Sixty people each evening put themselves into the hands of the inimitable Chef Legendre and come away dazzled by the experience. We certainly were. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/georgev_diningroom.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to the \u003ca href=\"http://travel2.nytimes.com/top/features/travel/destinations/europe/france/paris/restaurant_details.html?vid=1083747021624\">\u003cstrong>New York Times\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>, \u003cstrong>Le Cinq\u003c/strong> is “...\u003cem>a fitting stage set for chef Philippe Legendre. Formerly a legend at Taillevent, he is clearly thriving in these kitchens. Occasionally, the luxe menu (line-caught turbot with pumpkin-and-grapefruit marmalade, a licorice-infused pear cube with Szechuan pepper ice cream) is brought back down to earth by such selections as grouse and haggis in an aged Scotch whiskey sauce\u003c/em>...” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Not only were we not brought down to earth, we thought we’d been beamed up to the far reaches of heaven so magical that to speak of it would be to desecrate it. So please join me as I try to share, though words and pictures sadly fall far short, this galactic gastronomic journey on the first day of their autumn menu.... Bon appetit!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>* \u003ca href=\"http://www.champagne-billecart.fr/\">\u003cstrong>Champagne Billecart–Salmon Collection Millésime\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Amuse-bouches\u003c/strong> ~ \u003cem>A duo of small starters; the first a cube of the freshest sashimi tuna sprinkled with toasted sesame seeds resting on a perfect mâche leaf, the second a savory “strudel” of sorts filled with a chestnut puree\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg> \u003cimg>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>* \u003ca href=\"http://www.bbr.com/US/db/producer/912/Michel-Niellon?ID=null\">\u003cstrong>Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru «Clos St Jean » 2000 Domaine Niellon\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> ~ a white wine made from the Chardonnay grape in the Côte de Beaune region of Burgundy, France\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Tartare de coquilles St Jacques avec caviar Osciètre\u003c/strong> ~ \u003cem>A perfect scallop topped with Osetra caviar on three perfect mâche leaves and a dollop of a light horseradish crème fraîche\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/georgev_scallop.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>«Tarialini a la fonduta » et à la truffe d’Alba\u003c/strong> ~ \u003cem>Fresh housemade angelhair pasta with shaved truffles from Alba, Italy \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/georgev_tarialini.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Poireau cuit à la ficelle aux saveurs d’automne et à la truffe\u003c/strong> ~ \u003cem>Leeks cooked with the flavors of automn and truffles\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/georgev_poireau.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Homard Breton en coque fumé et rôti aux châtaignes de Corrèze\u003c/strong> ~ \u003cem>Brittany lobster smoked and roasted with a puree of chestnuts from Corrèze\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/georgev_idontknow1.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Dos de Turbot rôti aux topinambours et au lard de Toscane à la crème truffée\u003c/strong> ~ \u003cem>Filet of Turbo roasted with Jerusalem artichokes and Tuscan bacon with a truffle cream sauce\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/georgev_fish1_turbo.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lucy doesn’t eat meat so the chef sent out another fish plate: \u003cem>Ligne de Bar (line caught sea bass) with a confetti of diced sautéed vegetables\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/georgev_fish2.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> * \u003cstrong>Chateauneuf du Pape Domaine du Vieux Donjon 1999\u003c/strong> ~ a red wine from the premier appellation of the Southern Rhône Valley as decanted by our enchanting sommeliers...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/georgev_somelier3_decanting.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Noisette de chevreuil de Sologne au chocolat, sauce poivrade\u003c/strong> ~ \u003cem>Venison from Sologne with a chocolate pepper sauce\u003c/em> (Editors’ note: This was my favorite dish. I’d never had venison -- that I was aware of -- and this knocked my socks off...and I wasn’t wearing socks. The venison was encrusted with crushed chocolate-nougat in a chocolate pepper sauce that sent my taste buds dancing the two-step.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/georgev_venison1.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>La sélection de nos Paîtres fromagers\u003c/strong> ~ Cheese selection from the Master Fromagiers\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/georgev_fromage_cart.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Our charming, delightful, handsome waiters. Christophe, on the right, attended school for SIX years to prepare for this job. He had two years of culinary training, two years of hotel training and – get this! – two years of fine cutlery service! Oooh la la! \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/georgev_fromage_cart2.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> * \u003ca href=\"http://www.kleinconstantia.com/winedisplay6.asp?id=4\">\u003cstrong>Klein Constancia 1998 Sauvignon Blanc\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> ~ a dessert wine from South Africa \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Croquant aux agrumes et épices douces\u003c/strong> ~ \u003cem>A merignue cup of citrus segments with a soft spice sauce\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/georgev_dessert3_citrus.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Du chocolate exclusivement...\u003c/strong> ~ \u003cem>Exclusively chocolate...\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/georgev_dessert2_chocolate.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>and because I had just finished my internship in these hallowed kitchens 2 days earlier...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/georgev_lucy_steve_francois.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>...pastry sous-chef Francois (above with Lucy and Steve) sent us out *every* dessert on the menu! Oh. My. God. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Parfait des framboises\u003c/strong> ~ \u003cem>Raspberry parfait\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/georgev_dessert1_raspberrie.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Tiramisu Le Cinq\u003c/strong> ~ \u003cem>Le Cinq’s version of a tiramisu that won first prize in a national pastry competition\u003c/em>. To get the effect of the chocolate on bottom left corner of the plate, they freeze the plates then literally, with a high powered paint gun, spray paint the plate with chocolate to give it a velvet texture! C'est incroyable!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/georgev_dessert4_tiramisu.jpg\"> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Chocolate soufflé\u003c/strong> ~ \u003cem>no explanation needed!\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/georgev_dessert5_souffle.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Fruits d’automne\u003c/strong> ~ \u003cem>Roasted autumn fruit with a nougat tuile\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/georgev_dessert6_fruits.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Pâte à fruits et nougatine\u003c/strong> ~ \u003cem>Passionfruit and raspberry fruit jellies and nougat\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/georgev_dessert8_pate_fruit_a.jpg\"> \u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/georgev_dessert9_nougat_a.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Truffes du chocolat et guimauves\u003c/strong> ~ Chocolate truffles and fresh marshmallows (“guimauve”, pronounced gwee-mov, is one of my favorite French words, I love saying it. gwee-mov. gwee-mov. gwee-mov.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And so I hope you enjoyed our brief culinary journey through dinner at a 3 Michelin star restaurant in one of, if not the best, hotel in the world. Anyone hungry? 😉\u003cbr>_________________________________\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.fourseasons.com/paris/celebrations/dining_77.html\">\u003cstrong>Le Cinq\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> \u003cbr>\u003cstrong>Hotel Four Seasons George V\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>31, avenue George V\u003cbr>75008 Paris\u003cbr>+33 1 49 52 70 00\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Philippe Legendre\u003c/strong>, Chef des Cuisines, Meilleur Ouvrier de France\u003cbr>\u003cstrong>Eric Beaumard\u003c/strong>, Directeur de Restaurant\u003cbr>\u003cstrong>Enrico Bernardo\u003c/strong>, Chef Sommelier, Meilleur Sommelier du Monde\u003cbr>\u003cstrong>Jeffrey Leatham\u003c/strong>, Artistic Director\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Lucy and Christophe\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\u003cimg>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/engtea1-753837.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/engtea1-749531.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>How did I start my day this morning? With a glass of tea. A glass of bagged tea. A glass of Earl Grey bagged tea. See, I love bag tea. I've dabbled in loose tea a few times -- mostly when I was working a college job at Crabtree & Evelyn -- and it's fine, but it's just so messy and complicated and then there's the pot that is always drippy down the spout and gets scalding hot water everywhere including on my bare feet and it's all just so...ugh. Pretty much, I like to start the kettle, plunk the bag in a pint glass, and just add water. \u003cb>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2005/10/mistress-of-tea-part-ii.jsp\">Sina\u003c/a>\u003c/b>, you're cringing, aren't you? You can't wait to show me the One True Way, can you? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Okay, bags aside, tea drinking hasn't always been such a slap-dash, impersonal thing for me. Back in 1992, my mother and I toured the English countryside and we drank a lot of tea. In fact, every single one of the B&Bs we stayed in had a preciously personal tea set-up in our room. There would be a polished tin tray set with an electric kettle, two floral china cups and saucers, a teapot, and usually some cookies. However, my absolute favorite part of the set-up was the jug of cream. All the jugs were draped with crocheted doilies edged with tiny beads. The beads weighed the doilies down, and, as I understand it, the point of these delicately worked doilies was to keep bugs and dust and stuff out of the cream -- it's really quite ingenious! \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My mother and I would get to our room, critically examine the tea and cookie choices, and then my mother would always, ALWAYS make me pose next to the tea things. I swear, we have about ten photos of me sitting next to a pile of cups and saucers. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/engtea2-709937.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/engtea2-704898.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Instead of drinking our tea at the proper English hour, we'd save it for bedtime. That's also when we'd discuss which houses and castles we had visited that day, and where certain kings or queens fell into the historical timeline. We'd get confused by some of the early royalty -- like Ethelred the Unwashed and Elgifups of Northampton -- but luckily we had Antonia Fraser's \u003ci>The Kings and Queens of England\u003c/i> as a handy reference tool. The thing was, drinking tea that late at night had some interesting effects. Not \u003ci>that\u003c/i>. God. No, see the tea was so stimulating that we ended up having very vivid dreams about all the kings, queens, murders, coups, and royal affairs we had been gossiping about before bed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, that was a tea ritual of sorts. In another ritual, my older sister and I instituted \"Afternoon Tea\" in our household when we were about eight and eleven. It was brought on by an obsession with Russell Hoban's Frances books. We had all the books, \u003cb>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0060223596/kqedorg-20\">\u003ci>Bread and Jam for Frances\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003c/b>, \u003ci>Best Friends for Frances\u003c/i>, \u003ci>A Bargain for Frances\u003c/i>, etc. We liked these books so much that my mom gave us a \u003cb>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0898458714/kqedorg-20\">record\u003c/a>\u003c/b> with Gynnis Johns (the suffragette mother from \u003ci>Mary Poppins\u003c/i>) reading the story aloud. I think it was the record that put the bug in our ear to create our own Afternoon Tea because on it was the story \u003ci>A Bargain for Frances\u003c/i> in which Frances' calculating friend, Thelma, tricks Frances into buying Thelma's old red-flowered plastic tea set off of her when she really wants \"a real china tea set with pictures on it in blue.\" My sister and I searched and searched but couldn't find the elusive tea set \"with pictures on it in blue,\" so instead we settled for sets with blue flowers. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We'd put the Frances record on the player in the shag-carpeted den, set up the TV trays, and arrange our cups and saucers while my mother made the tea for us. \u003cb>\u003ca href=\"http://www.bigelowtea.com/\">Bigelow\u003c/a>\u003c/b> was the sole sponsor of our tea parties, and we drank either Lemon Lift or Constant Comment. As a kid, I thought that \"Constant Comment\" was a really weird name for a tea. I still think it's a over-anxious marketing ploy gone awry, but I do love the spicy clove and orange rind-infused tea. On one little china plate, we placed slices of lemons for squeezing, filled a tiny pitcher with milk for pouring, and dipped a baby food spoon into a sugar-filled bowl for sweetening. Always looking for new ways to stuff sugar into our mouths, we'd take a spoonful of sugar and suspended it briefly in our tea cup before quickly pulling it out. It was a delicate balance. We immersed the spoon just long enough for the sugar to get wet without allowing it to swirl away into the brew. Then we ate the spoonful of tea-dampened sugar.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Looking back, I wonder if Frances was the only inspiration for our tea parties. After all, my mother had already introduced us to the world of murder mysteries through books, movies, and \u003ci>Masterpiece Theatre\u003c/i>, and we noted that a lot of tea drinking went on in them. That probably had something to do with the fact that we read and watched chiefly British sleuths: Patricia Wentworth's Miss Silver, Agatha Christie's Miss Marple, even Hercule Poirot with his tisanes (which we learned were herbal teas) -- they all drank vats of tea in each book. The influence was strong. Come to think if it, sherry was another British mystery thing -- heroines were constantly sipping on glasses of sherry and dabbing eau de cologne on their temples in order to recover from the shock of discovering a dead body. Or in order to recover from the shock of \u003ci>disposing\u003c/i> of a dead body. My parents had a dust-encrusted bottle of sherry that we dipped into once. And promptly spit it out. We weren't curious about it after that. We stuck to tea.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sometimes my sister and I had food to accompany our tea. Nothing fancy like cucumber sandwiches or scones with clotted cream and preserves, though. We were perfectly happy with our stacks of the Very Thin Pepperidge Farm bread, which was lightly toasted, buttered, and dusted with cinnamon and sugar.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tea has also been a cure-all for me. Come headache, sore throat, or upset stomach, I've always turned to tea. In fact, when I had all four of my severely impacted wisdom teeth out and had an ugly reaction to my codeine -- which took the oral surgeon, like, DAYS to figure out even though about 70% the population has that same ugly reaction to codeine, but don't mind me sleeping on the bathroom floor in 90° MINNESOTA SUMMER HEAT WITH MY HEAD IN THE TOILET! -- all I could keep down was Stouffer's Macaroni and Cheese and weak tea. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There you go, I do have a history of my own tea rituals, but maybe it's now time for me to branch out and experience some new ones. Jeez -- I think I still have that tin of Orange Pekoe from Crabtree & Evelyn. I should probably get rid of that.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/engtea1-753837.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/engtea1-749531.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>How did I start my day this morning? With a glass of tea. A glass of bagged tea. A glass of Earl Grey bagged tea. See, I love bag tea. I've dabbled in loose tea a few times -- mostly when I was working a college job at Crabtree & Evelyn -- and it's fine, but it's just so messy and complicated and then there's the pot that is always drippy down the spout and gets scalding hot water everywhere including on my bare feet and it's all just so...ugh. Pretty much, I like to start the kettle, plunk the bag in a pint glass, and just add water. \u003cb>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2005/10/mistress-of-tea-part-ii.jsp\">Sina\u003c/a>\u003c/b>, you're cringing, aren't you? You can't wait to show me the One True Way, can you? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Okay, bags aside, tea drinking hasn't always been such a slap-dash, impersonal thing for me. Back in 1992, my mother and I toured the English countryside and we drank a lot of tea. In fact, every single one of the B&Bs we stayed in had a preciously personal tea set-up in our room. There would be a polished tin tray set with an electric kettle, two floral china cups and saucers, a teapot, and usually some cookies. However, my absolute favorite part of the set-up was the jug of cream. All the jugs were draped with crocheted doilies edged with tiny beads. The beads weighed the doilies down, and, as I understand it, the point of these delicately worked doilies was to keep bugs and dust and stuff out of the cream -- it's really quite ingenious! \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My mother and I would get to our room, critically examine the tea and cookie choices, and then my mother would always, ALWAYS make me pose next to the tea things. I swear, we have about ten photos of me sitting next to a pile of cups and saucers. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/engtea2-709937.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/engtea2-704898.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Instead of drinking our tea at the proper English hour, we'd save it for bedtime. That's also when we'd discuss which houses and castles we had visited that day, and where certain kings or queens fell into the historical timeline. We'd get confused by some of the early royalty -- like Ethelred the Unwashed and Elgifups of Northampton -- but luckily we had Antonia Fraser's \u003ci>The Kings and Queens of England\u003c/i> as a handy reference tool. The thing was, drinking tea that late at night had some interesting effects. Not \u003ci>that\u003c/i>. God. No, see the tea was so stimulating that we ended up having very vivid dreams about all the kings, queens, murders, coups, and royal affairs we had been gossiping about before bed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, that was a tea ritual of sorts. In another ritual, my older sister and I instituted \"Afternoon Tea\" in our household when we were about eight and eleven. It was brought on by an obsession with Russell Hoban's Frances books. We had all the books, \u003cb>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0060223596/kqedorg-20\">\u003ci>Bread and Jam for Frances\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003c/b>, \u003ci>Best Friends for Frances\u003c/i>, \u003ci>A Bargain for Frances\u003c/i>, etc. We liked these books so much that my mom gave us a \u003cb>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0898458714/kqedorg-20\">record\u003c/a>\u003c/b> with Gynnis Johns (the suffragette mother from \u003ci>Mary Poppins\u003c/i>) reading the story aloud. I think it was the record that put the bug in our ear to create our own Afternoon Tea because on it was the story \u003ci>A Bargain for Frances\u003c/i> in which Frances' calculating friend, Thelma, tricks Frances into buying Thelma's old red-flowered plastic tea set off of her when she really wants \"a real china tea set with pictures on it in blue.\" My sister and I searched and searched but couldn't find the elusive tea set \"with pictures on it in blue,\" so instead we settled for sets with blue flowers. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We'd put the Frances record on the player in the shag-carpeted den, set up the TV trays, and arrange our cups and saucers while my mother made the tea for us. \u003cb>\u003ca href=\"http://www.bigelowtea.com/\">Bigelow\u003c/a>\u003c/b> was the sole sponsor of our tea parties, and we drank either Lemon Lift or Constant Comment. As a kid, I thought that \"Constant Comment\" was a really weird name for a tea. I still think it's a over-anxious marketing ploy gone awry, but I do love the spicy clove and orange rind-infused tea. On one little china plate, we placed slices of lemons for squeezing, filled a tiny pitcher with milk for pouring, and dipped a baby food spoon into a sugar-filled bowl for sweetening. Always looking for new ways to stuff sugar into our mouths, we'd take a spoonful of sugar and suspended it briefly in our tea cup before quickly pulling it out. It was a delicate balance. We immersed the spoon just long enough for the sugar to get wet without allowing it to swirl away into the brew. Then we ate the spoonful of tea-dampened sugar.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Looking back, I wonder if Frances was the only inspiration for our tea parties. After all, my mother had already introduced us to the world of murder mysteries through books, movies, and \u003ci>Masterpiece Theatre\u003c/i>, and we noted that a lot of tea drinking went on in them. That probably had something to do with the fact that we read and watched chiefly British sleuths: Patricia Wentworth's Miss Silver, Agatha Christie's Miss Marple, even Hercule Poirot with his tisanes (which we learned were herbal teas) -- they all drank vats of tea in each book. The influence was strong. Come to think if it, sherry was another British mystery thing -- heroines were constantly sipping on glasses of sherry and dabbing eau de cologne on their temples in order to recover from the shock of discovering a dead body. Or in order to recover from the shock of \u003ci>disposing\u003c/i> of a dead body. My parents had a dust-encrusted bottle of sherry that we dipped into once. And promptly spit it out. We weren't curious about it after that. We stuck to tea.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sometimes my sister and I had food to accompany our tea. Nothing fancy like cucumber sandwiches or scones with clotted cream and preserves, though. We were perfectly happy with our stacks of the Very Thin Pepperidge Farm bread, which was lightly toasted, buttered, and dusted with cinnamon and sugar.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tea has also been a cure-all for me. Come headache, sore throat, or upset stomach, I've always turned to tea. In fact, when I had all four of my severely impacted wisdom teeth out and had an ugly reaction to my codeine -- which took the oral surgeon, like, DAYS to figure out even though about 70% the population has that same ugly reaction to codeine, but don't mind me sleeping on the bathroom floor in 90° MINNESOTA SUMMER HEAT WITH MY HEAD IN THE TOILET! -- all I could keep down was Stouffer's Macaroni and Cheese and weak tea. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There you go, I do have a history of my own tea rituals, but maybe it's now time for me to branch out and experience some new ones. Jeez -- I think I still have that tin of Orange Pekoe from Crabtree & Evelyn. I should probably get rid of that.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/lavendar_ice_cream_300-772561.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/lavendar_ice_cream_300-770438.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\"> \u003c/a> \u003cbr>\u003cem>lavender ice cream made with lavender infused crème anglaise\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Laura: \"Hi Mom.\" \u003cbr>Mom: \"Hi Laura.\" \u003cbr>Laura: \"Quick question. I'm making dinner and the recipe says to simmer. What's simmer?\" \u003cbr>Mom: \"Huh?\" \u003cbr>Laura: \"What does simmer mean?\" \u003cbr>Mom: \"You're telling me you don't know what simmer means?!?!\" \u003cbr>Laura: \"If I knew what it meant, I wouldn't be calling you!\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>....an actual conversation with my mother sometime in 1986 and I'm sorry to say things on the culinary front didn't improve much until I started taking cooking classes in 1997. Also if a recipe had more than 5 ingredients and 6 steps I started hyperventilating and quickly made reservations. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fast forward 6 years to cooking school. One of the most important things I was taught in cooking school was \"\u003cstrong>techniques\u003c/strong>\" as opposed to recipes and in the first 6 weeks we learned 200 and something techniques that form the foundation of French cuisine or really modern cooking. Braising, roasting, searing, emulsions, sauces, stock, soups, etc... Once you know a \"technique\" you can really make anything. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For example, my \"\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2005/09/fast-coq-au-vin-my-way.jsp\">\u003cstrong>Fast Coq au Vin, My Way\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\" was basically a recipe for a stew that requires a protein (chicken), vegetable (peppers), and a liquid (red wine) and the technique is braising which is cooking something in a covered pot with some liquid at a low temperature for a long time. Simply replace chicken with beef, lamb, rabbit, etc..., substitute peppers with mushrooms, potatoes, carrots, etc...and swap red wine with white wine, chicken broth, beef broth, orange juice, any flavored liquid really, cook slowly over/in low heat and voila, stew! \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So in future 'technique' posts, I will try to demystify and simplify some of these techniques and give you a basis from which to cook so that when you are at the market and see a beautiful crate of bespeckled cranberry beans or free range Bresse chickens (with heads & feet intact), you will instantly have a knowledge base from which to draw and many options or techniques to choose from. I bought a darling \u003ca href=\"http://cucinatestarossa.blogs.com/weblog/2005/01/le_petit_potima.html\">\u003cstrong>potimarron\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> the other day and am still trying to decide what to do with it. Do I make soup? Roast it, puree it, or what I really want to do is make ice cream with it! \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Which segues nicely to today's \"\u003cstrong>technique\u003c/strong>\" which is a \u003cstrong>stirred custard\u003c/strong> called \u003cstrong>Crème Anglaise\u003c/strong>. \u003cstrong>Crème Anglaise\u003c/strong> is a light (in viscosity, not caloric content!) dessert sauce that is also the base for ice cream. Make a batch, throw it in an ice cream machine, and in 30 minutes you have vanilla ice cream! Crème Anglaise is also a lovely sauce for spooning over or around various cakes, pastries, tarts, etc. Even if you bought a tart at Safeway and spooned a bit of crème anglaise infused with some aromatic, you'd have an elegant, delicious dessert. In France, it is traditionally served with a Genoise cake. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/ginger_market_300-759416.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/ginger_market_300-756370.jpg\" border=\"0\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The base can be flavored with any number of ingredients, let your imagination run wild here. I've used ginger, lavender, chocolate-chili, fig, basil, earl gray tea, cardamom....you get the idea. Some other ideas include: lemon or orange zest, cinnamon, coffee, toasted nuts, liqueurs, coconut, dried fruits, flavorful fruits such as raspberries or peaches, the ideas are limitless! One of the techniques within this technique is \"tempering\" which means combining a hot and cold item without them separating or \"curdling\", in this case the egg yolks turning into scrambled eggs! I hope this helps!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/lavendar_patisserie_cream_-722587.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/lavendar_patisserie_cream_-720845.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\u003cem>an example of crème anglaise \"nappant\"\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Crème Anglaise\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you are \u003ca href=\"http://cucinatestarossa.blogs.com/weblog/i_scream_you_scream/index.html\">\u003cstrong>making ice cream\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>, let the mixture cool to room temperature (ideally chill it), add it to the ice cream machine and let'er rip. Or you can serve it warm on top of a souffle! That, my friends, is downright decadent! \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>• 500 ml (approx 18 oz) \u003cstrong>milk \u003c/strong>(regular milk please, not non- or low- or 2% milk! if you are worried about calories, just have one spoonful, no need to drink it though you will want to!)\u003cbr>• 4-5 \u003cstrong>egg yolks\u003c/strong> (depending on size)\u003cbr>• 100 g (approx 3.5 oz) \u003cstrong>sugar\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>• ½ \u003cstrong>vanilla bean\u003c/strong>, cut in half lengthwise, insides scraped out and all put into pot\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Put milk and vanilla bean into a cold pot and place it on the stove.\u003cbr>NOTE: This is where you would add what ever flavoring element you choose such as lavender or chocolate, etc...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Slowly bring this mixture to a boil and remove from heat. (You don't want to scald the milk or it will have a burnt taste. Set aside and let cool.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Whisk the egg yolks and sugar in a non-reactive (glass or stainless steel) bowl until it is pale yellow. This is called \"\u003cstrong>blanchir\u003c/strong>\" or to whiten as the eggs will lighten in color. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Very slowly \"\u003cstrong>temper\u003c/strong>\" or pour the hot milk into the yolks/sugar mixture, whisking vigorously constantly. Remember, you want to 'cook' the eggs in the hot liquid without turning them into scrambled eggs! If your bowl is sliding all over the counter, put a damp towel on the counter and set the bowl on that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5. Pour this mixture back into the pot and return to the stove top. Cook over medium heat while stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, making sure you scrape the inside corners of the pot as that is where the cream thickens and clumps. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6. The cream is ready when it is \"\u003cstrong>nappant\u003c/strong>\" or coats the back of the spoon. Run your finger down the back of a spoon and if the mixture doesn't fill in and leaves a line, it is ready. The picture above is an example of \"\u003cstrong>nappant\u003c/strong>\".\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>7. Strain the mixture through a \u003ca href=\"http://cucinatestarossa.blogs.com/weblog/2005/09/the_most_expens.html\">\u003cstrong>chinois\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> (fine strainer) into an \u003cstrong>ice bath\u003c/strong> or a bowl set on top of another bowl of ice. Stir the mixture -- this will cool it down quickly. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bon appetit! \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>*NOTE: This is the same technique for (Crème Patisserie) Pastry Cream (a starch-bound custard) which is a much thicker version of Crème Anglaise and is used in Napoleans, filling for éclairs and profiteroles, and the base for fruit tarts, to name a few...\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"description": "lavender ice cream made with lavender infused crème anglaise Laura: "Hi Mom." Mom: "Hi Laura." Laura: "Quick question. I'm making dinner and the recipe says to simmer. What's simmer?" Mom: "Huh?" Laura: "What does simmer mean?" Mom: "You're telling me you don't know what simmer means?!?!" Laura: "If I knew what it meant, I wouldn't",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/lavendar_ice_cream_300-772561.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/lavendar_ice_cream_300-770438.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\"> \u003c/a> \u003cbr>\u003cem>lavender ice cream made with lavender infused crème anglaise\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Laura: \"Hi Mom.\" \u003cbr>Mom: \"Hi Laura.\" \u003cbr>Laura: \"Quick question. I'm making dinner and the recipe says to simmer. What's simmer?\" \u003cbr>Mom: \"Huh?\" \u003cbr>Laura: \"What does simmer mean?\" \u003cbr>Mom: \"You're telling me you don't know what simmer means?!?!\" \u003cbr>Laura: \"If I knew what it meant, I wouldn't be calling you!\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>....an actual conversation with my mother sometime in 1986 and I'm sorry to say things on the culinary front didn't improve much until I started taking cooking classes in 1997. Also if a recipe had more than 5 ingredients and 6 steps I started hyperventilating and quickly made reservations. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fast forward 6 years to cooking school. One of the most important things I was taught in cooking school was \"\u003cstrong>techniques\u003c/strong>\" as opposed to recipes and in the first 6 weeks we learned 200 and something techniques that form the foundation of French cuisine or really modern cooking. Braising, roasting, searing, emulsions, sauces, stock, soups, etc... Once you know a \"technique\" you can really make anything. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For example, my \"\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2005/09/fast-coq-au-vin-my-way.jsp\">\u003cstrong>Fast Coq au Vin, My Way\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\" was basically a recipe for a stew that requires a protein (chicken), vegetable (peppers), and a liquid (red wine) and the technique is braising which is cooking something in a covered pot with some liquid at a low temperature for a long time. Simply replace chicken with beef, lamb, rabbit, etc..., substitute peppers with mushrooms, potatoes, carrots, etc...and swap red wine with white wine, chicken broth, beef broth, orange juice, any flavored liquid really, cook slowly over/in low heat and voila, stew! \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So in future 'technique' posts, I will try to demystify and simplify some of these techniques and give you a basis from which to cook so that when you are at the market and see a beautiful crate of bespeckled cranberry beans or free range Bresse chickens (with heads & feet intact), you will instantly have a knowledge base from which to draw and many options or techniques to choose from. I bought a darling \u003ca href=\"http://cucinatestarossa.blogs.com/weblog/2005/01/le_petit_potima.html\">\u003cstrong>potimarron\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> the other day and am still trying to decide what to do with it. Do I make soup? Roast it, puree it, or what I really want to do is make ice cream with it! \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Which segues nicely to today's \"\u003cstrong>technique\u003c/strong>\" which is a \u003cstrong>stirred custard\u003c/strong> called \u003cstrong>Crème Anglaise\u003c/strong>. \u003cstrong>Crème Anglaise\u003c/strong> is a light (in viscosity, not caloric content!) dessert sauce that is also the base for ice cream. Make a batch, throw it in an ice cream machine, and in 30 minutes you have vanilla ice cream! Crème Anglaise is also a lovely sauce for spooning over or around various cakes, pastries, tarts, etc. Even if you bought a tart at Safeway and spooned a bit of crème anglaise infused with some aromatic, you'd have an elegant, delicious dessert. In France, it is traditionally served with a Genoise cake. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/ginger_market_300-759416.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/ginger_market_300-756370.jpg\" border=\"0\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The base can be flavored with any number of ingredients, let your imagination run wild here. I've used ginger, lavender, chocolate-chili, fig, basil, earl gray tea, cardamom....you get the idea. Some other ideas include: lemon or orange zest, cinnamon, coffee, toasted nuts, liqueurs, coconut, dried fruits, flavorful fruits such as raspberries or peaches, the ideas are limitless! One of the techniques within this technique is \"tempering\" which means combining a hot and cold item without them separating or \"curdling\", in this case the egg yolks turning into scrambled eggs! I hope this helps!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/lavendar_patisserie_cream_-722587.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/lavendar_patisserie_cream_-720845.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\u003cem>an example of crème anglaise \"nappant\"\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Crème Anglaise\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you are \u003ca href=\"http://cucinatestarossa.blogs.com/weblog/i_scream_you_scream/index.html\">\u003cstrong>making ice cream\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>, let the mixture cool to room temperature (ideally chill it), add it to the ice cream machine and let'er rip. Or you can serve it warm on top of a souffle! That, my friends, is downright decadent! \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>• 500 ml (approx 18 oz) \u003cstrong>milk \u003c/strong>(regular milk please, not non- or low- or 2% milk! if you are worried about calories, just have one spoonful, no need to drink it though you will want to!)\u003cbr>• 4-5 \u003cstrong>egg yolks\u003c/strong> (depending on size)\u003cbr>• 100 g (approx 3.5 oz) \u003cstrong>sugar\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>• ½ \u003cstrong>vanilla bean\u003c/strong>, cut in half lengthwise, insides scraped out and all put into pot\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Put milk and vanilla bean into a cold pot and place it on the stove.\u003cbr>NOTE: This is where you would add what ever flavoring element you choose such as lavender or chocolate, etc...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Slowly bring this mixture to a boil and remove from heat. (You don't want to scald the milk or it will have a burnt taste. Set aside and let cool.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Whisk the egg yolks and sugar in a non-reactive (glass or stainless steel) bowl until it is pale yellow. This is called \"\u003cstrong>blanchir\u003c/strong>\" or to whiten as the eggs will lighten in color. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Very slowly \"\u003cstrong>temper\u003c/strong>\" or pour the hot milk into the yolks/sugar mixture, whisking vigorously constantly. Remember, you want to 'cook' the eggs in the hot liquid without turning them into scrambled eggs! If your bowl is sliding all over the counter, put a damp towel on the counter and set the bowl on that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5. Pour this mixture back into the pot and return to the stove top. Cook over medium heat while stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, making sure you scrape the inside corners of the pot as that is where the cream thickens and clumps. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6. The cream is ready when it is \"\u003cstrong>nappant\u003c/strong>\" or coats the back of the spoon. Run your finger down the back of a spoon and if the mixture doesn't fill in and leaves a line, it is ready. The picture above is an example of \"\u003cstrong>nappant\u003c/strong>\".\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>7. Strain the mixture through a \u003ca href=\"http://cucinatestarossa.blogs.com/weblog/2005/09/the_most_expens.html\">\u003cstrong>chinois\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> (fine strainer) into an \u003cstrong>ice bath\u003c/strong> or a bowl set on top of another bowl of ice. Stir the mixture -- this will cool it down quickly. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bon appetit! \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>*NOTE: This is the same technique for (Crème Patisserie) Pastry Cream (a starch-bound custard) which is a much thicker version of Crème Anglaise and is used in Napoleans, filling for éclairs and profiteroles, and the base for fruit tarts, to name a few...\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/sina-710354.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/sina-702551.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Sina Carrol (right) with Angela Justice at Celadon\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Continuing from \u003cb>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2005/10/mistress-of-tea-part-i.jsp\">last week\u003c/a>\u003c/b>, Sina Carrol tells me more about what she loves so much about tea.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What is the tea you can't live without?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Presently: White Peony King, Luu Shan Clouds and Mist, Honey Dan Chong, and my secret stash of 30 Year Pu-erh, but if you must nail me down to only one...it's probably a Taiwanese oolong. Taiwanese oolongs tend to have more floral tones than Chinese mainland oolongs, which are more honey-like. The oolong I prefer is charcoal fire-roasted -- it's really not as smokey as you might imagine. This is a complex oolong that is slow-roasted over bamboo charcoal, which imparts a subtle sweet grassiness to the it and brings out the soft and velvety sugar tones. It is a sophisticated tea that has many layers, is easily palateable, and simple to enjoy. This is a great tea for a \u003cb>\u003ca href=\"http://www.immortalitea.com/brewing_yixing.htm\">Yixing teapot\u003c/a>\u003c/b>. This particular teapot manages to lend back the flavor of the tea each time you brew it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Also, I want to say a little more about why should people drink more tea: the reason I have found my passion with tea is that I see it, and the time that surrounds making and drinking, it as the gateway into the last respite of ritual, peace and civility. Tea is a chance for you to take charge of the first few minutes of your day and talk with the inside of yourself. To remember your body, to remind yourself of all your senses, to look down into your cup and focus, feel, be present in the moment. Remember that this ritual is available regardless of class or status, without high ceremony or circumstance -- it is an opportunity every day to remind ourselves who we are as individuals, as human beings.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With company, tea is a celebration. It is a means with which to include old friends, break the ice with new acquaintences, to talk with a lover, make dealings with business partners. It is an important part of creating the Atmosphere of your Life! At this point, I can't see myself not making time for tea in my day. Every time I make tea I offer it to the people around me. It has helped me make friends, keep my sanity, persevere, enjoy the good days and put up with the bad ones. You know you love what you're doing when you wish you could do it seven days a week -- if only my legs didn't ache from nine hours of standing, if only I didn't need to take a break to eat, if only I didn't need to sleep... I'd be making tea for you instead of writing this, wouldn't I? Would you like some tea?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Celadon Fine Teas\u003cbr>1111 Solano Avenue\u003cbr>Albany, CA 94706\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>510.524.1696\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hours: Tuesday-Thursday & Sunday 11:30 AM to 7:00 PM\u003cbr> Friday & Saturday 11:30 AM to 10:00 PM\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Also, I want to say a little more about why should people drink more tea: the reason I have found my passion with tea is that I see it, and the time that surrounds making and drinking, it as the gateway into the last respite of ritual, peace and civility. Tea is a chance for you to take charge of the first few minutes of your day and talk with the inside of yourself. To remember your body, to remind yourself of all your senses, to look down into your cup and focus, feel, be present in the moment. Remember that this ritual is available regardless of class or status, without high ceremony or circumstance -- it is an opportunity every day to remind ourselves who we are as individuals, as human beings.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With company, tea is a celebration. It is a means with which to include old friends, break the ice with new acquaintences, to talk with a lover, make dealings with business partners. It is an important part of creating the Atmosphere of your Life! At this point, I can't see myself not making time for tea in my day. Every time I make tea I offer it to the people around me. It has helped me make friends, keep my sanity, persevere, enjoy the good days and put up with the bad ones. You know you love what you're doing when you wish you could do it seven days a week -- if only my legs didn't ache from nine hours of standing, if only I didn't need to take a break to eat, if only I didn't need to sleep... I'd be making tea for you instead of writing this, wouldn't I? Would you like some tea?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Celadon Fine Teas\u003cbr>1111 Solano Avenue\u003cbr>Albany, CA 94706\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>510.524.1696\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hours: Tuesday-Thursday & Sunday 11:30 AM to 7:00 PM\u003cbr> Friday & Saturday 11:30 AM to 10:00 PM\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://homepage.mac.com/amybsherman/images/KQEDChristine.png\">\u003cbr>\u003cb>Title:\u003c/b> Bar manager, \u003cb>\u003ca href=\"http://www.mythsf.com\">Myth\u003c/a>\u003c/b>\u003cbr>\u003cb>Home town:\u003c/b> Anaheim, CA\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>1. What makes someone good at working the bar?\u003c/b>\u003cbr>You have to be a people person. You have to be able to listen. You have to be something of a chameleon and an actor. You never know what's going to come up or what people will want to talk about. I came to San Francisco on a theater scholarship at San Francisco State. But I've always bar-tended nights. Everyday is a character study.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>People who come to the bar are looking for interaction and I really like that part of it. I pretty much always want to keep one night a week working the bar for as long as I can possibly stand up. It's good stories, good interaction you just get to meet so many people. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Experimenting is important. To be able to recreate a memory, something sensory.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>2. How did you learn to work the bar?\u003c/b>\u003cbr>I used to be a cocktail server. An old school bar man took me under his wing and taught me all the classics. When I turned 21 I could get behind the bar legally and I fell into it naturally.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>3. What's your favorite fresh ingredient available right now?\u003c/b>\u003cbr>I'm really liking peaches. I muddle them up and make an Old Fashioned with them instead of cherries. You get all the sweetness but it's different. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Over the Summer I also used cilantro. I especially like savory flavors, like tomatoes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>4. What's your favorite drink on the menu right now?\u003c/b>\u003cbr>Well it's not on the menu but it will be soon. Green Tea Ice Cream--we used the \u003cb>\u003ca href=\"http://www.charbay.com/html/green_tea_vodka.html\">Charbay green tea infused vodka\u003c/a>\u003c/b>, with a little bit of Vermeer, vanilla, rum and it tastes just like green tea ice cream. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>5. If you could take one drink off every bar menu, what would it be?\u003c/b>\u003cbr>The Mojito, by far! It's so labor intensive and they are never right, everyone wants theirs slightly different.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://homepage.mac.com/amybsherman/images/KQEDChristine.png\">\u003cbr>\u003cb>Title:\u003c/b> Bar manager, \u003cb>\u003ca href=\"http://www.mythsf.com\">Myth\u003c/a>\u003c/b>\u003cbr>\u003cb>Home town:\u003c/b> Anaheim, CA\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>1. What makes someone good at working the bar?\u003c/b>\u003cbr>You have to be a people person. You have to be able to listen. You have to be something of a chameleon and an actor. You never know what's going to come up or what people will want to talk about. I came to San Francisco on a theater scholarship at San Francisco State. But I've always bar-tended nights. Everyday is a character study.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>People who come to the bar are looking for interaction and I really like that part of it. I pretty much always want to keep one night a week working the bar for as long as I can possibly stand up. It's good stories, good interaction you just get to meet so many people. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Experimenting is important. To be able to recreate a memory, something sensory.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>2. How did you learn to work the bar?\u003c/b>\u003cbr>I used to be a cocktail server. An old school bar man took me under his wing and taught me all the classics. When I turned 21 I could get behind the bar legally and I fell into it naturally.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.flourphoto.com/blog/archives/2005/10/happily_ever_af.html\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/rossfamily-700788.jpg\" alt=\"\" border=\"0\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here's the amazing thing about farmers' markets: most of the farmers have such an intriguing story when you get to talk to them. Small farms are a rare thing in this country, and making a living farming involves such deliberate decisions that there are not many people who farm without a lot of soul-searching along the way. It can be an addiction ... finding out these stories.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And do I have one for you today.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'm embarrassed to say that I first became truly aware of Ella Bella's produce this year. I have been shopping at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org/\">Ferry Plaza Farmers' Market\u003c/a> for about five years, and I have picked up an item or two at Ella Bella from time to time, but this is the first year that they have become a regular stop for me -- one of the reasons I come to the market. The item that made me stop in my tracks was Ella Bella's summer squash. They were full of sweetness and moisture, I did nothing to these beauties except for eat them lightly steamed and unadorned.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The next week I returned for more squash and some dry-farmed Early Girl tomatoes and talked to one of the two elderly people at the booth. I started talking about quality of the produce, and he beamed. It was the beam of a proud parent -- one who is unabashedly sure that his son walks on water.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I later found out that the parents of the farmer -- Brandon Ross -- work at the booth every week, and it was confirmed that it was Brandon's proud dad who I had been talking to all these weeks. But that's not the end of the story.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You see, Brandon's paternal grandfather was a mentor to Cesar Chavez. He helped to lead the grape boycotts of the sixties, and was a founding member of the United Farm Workers union. And his maternal grandfather was a grape farmer. He was one of the farmers who was boycotted by the UFW movement. In other words, sworn enemies.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Brandon's parents -- the ones who are at the booth each week -- met in college and fell in love. Like a modern day Romeo and Juliet, they were members of warring factions who could never be in the same room together.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In this version, however, Romeo and Juliet lived happily ever after and spend their Saturdays working at the booth of their organic-farmer son.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Brandon Ross, after working at organic farms such as Swanton Berry Farm and Cache Creek Organics, decided to start his own farm and enlisted the help of (now wife) Michelle O'Hearn. Michelle is a chef and prior to farming, owned her own restaurant on Kauai.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You know that these farmers are dedicated to the social spirit of small farms when you talk to Michelle: \"We want to extend our growing season as long as possible to support our workers through as much of the year as we can,\" she said on Saturday in a \"Meet the Farmer\" event hosted by \u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org/\">CUESA\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After moving to a new property last year, Brandon and Michelle are farming on a 19 acres near Watsonville. They farm tomatoes (heirloom, romas and dry-farmed early girls), berries, garlic, squash, broccoli, and many other products at their diverse farm. They are also selling some delicious canned products and sauces. Michelle says that we can expect a return of the summer squash in the next couple weeks, as there are some blooming in the fields this week.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You can find Ella Bella on Tuesdays and Saturdays at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org/\">Ferry Plaza Farmers' Market\u003c/a> or on Sundays at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/listings/event.php?events,e32949\">Menlo Park Farmers' Market\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To read more about Ella Bella:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org/cuesa/e-letter/archives/webmail-121604.htm\">Winter at Ella Bella Farm\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/topics/home/cooking/farmer-month-oct.jsp#\">KQED Farmer of the month\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\u003ca href=\"http://cuesa.org/markets/farmers/farm_26.php\">CUESA farm profile\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Photo credit: \u003ca href=\"http://www.flourphoto.com/\">flourphoto\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I later found out that the parents of the farmer -- Brandon Ross -- work at the booth every week, and it was confirmed that it was Brandon's proud dad who I had been talking to all these weeks. But that's not the end of the story.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You see, Brandon's paternal grandfather was a mentor to Cesar Chavez. He helped to lead the grape boycotts of the sixties, and was a founding member of the United Farm Workers union. And his maternal grandfather was a grape farmer. He was one of the farmers who was boycotted by the UFW movement. In other words, sworn enemies.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Brandon's parents -- the ones who are at the booth each week -- met in college and fell in love. Like a modern day Romeo and Juliet, they were members of warring factions who could never be in the same room together.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In this version, however, Romeo and Juliet lived happily ever after and spend their Saturdays working at the booth of their organic-farmer son.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Brandon Ross, after working at organic farms such as Swanton Berry Farm and Cache Creek Organics, decided to start his own farm and enlisted the help of (now wife) Michelle O'Hearn. Michelle is a chef and prior to farming, owned her own restaurant on Kauai.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You know that these farmers are dedicated to the social spirit of small farms when you talk to Michelle: \"We want to extend our growing season as long as possible to support our workers through as much of the year as we can,\" she said on Saturday in a \"Meet the Farmer\" event hosted by \u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org/\">CUESA\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After moving to a new property last year, Brandon and Michelle are farming on a 19 acres near Watsonville. They farm tomatoes (heirloom, romas and dry-farmed early girls), berries, garlic, squash, broccoli, and many other products at their diverse farm. They are also selling some delicious canned products and sauces. Michelle says that we can expect a return of the summer squash in the next couple weeks, as there are some blooming in the fields this week.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You can find Ella Bella on Tuesdays and Saturdays at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org/\">Ferry Plaza Farmers' Market\u003c/a> or on Sundays at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/listings/event.php?events,e32949\">Menlo Park Farmers' Market\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To read more about Ella Bella:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org/cuesa/e-letter/archives/webmail-121604.htm\">Winter at Ella Bella Farm\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/topics/home/cooking/farmer-month-oct.jsp#\">KQED Farmer of the month\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\u003ca href=\"http://cuesa.org/markets/farmers/farm_26.php\">CUESA farm profile\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Photo credit: \u003ca href=\"http://www.flourphoto.com/\">flourphoto\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>As many Californians know, Los Angeles is often referred to these days as \"Tehrangeles\", so great is the population of Persians there. So, it's no surprise that there are \u003ca href=\"http://www.parstimes.com/cuisine/persian_restaurants.html\">\u003cstrong>dozens of Persian restaurants\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> and \u003cem>Chelo Kabab-i\u003c/em>s to choose from.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sadly, the same is not particularly true of the Bay Area; good Persian joints are few and far between. \u003ca href=\"http://sanfrancisco.citysearch.com/profile/11484328/\">\u003cstrong>Alborz Restaurant\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> is a particular favorite in our family (they even catered part of our wedding feast), but driving to the city each time we crave Chelo Kabab is sub-optimal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The other night, we happened upon Papa's Restaurant, about which we'd heard quite a lot, and decided to check it out.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Papa's is set along a stretch of University Avenue just west of Shattuck. It's a simple little place, with some Persian artwork on the walls, but otherwise rather sparse decor. There are perhaps 15 tables, and one extremely efficient woman serving all of them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Despite the fact that most Persian restaurants serve ridiculously large portions, we decided to order a few appetizers since (a) we were starving and (b) it was my in-laws' first visit to a Persian restaurant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I found our order of \u003ca href=\"http://www.gastronomie-sf.com/2005/08/kashke_bademjan_1.html\">\u003cem>\u003cstrong>Kashk-e Bademjan\u003c/strong>\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>to be just OK. The eggplants seemed a bit undercooked, and the unique tang of \u003cem>kashk\u003c/em> was missing. On the other hand, the \u003cem>mast-o mousir \u003c/em>(yogurt with shallots) was perfect--thick, rich strained yogurt with finely chopped shallot and spices.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We also had a \u003cem>sir-torshi \u003c/em>(pickled garlic) and \u003cem>panir-o-sabzi\u003c/em> (fresh herbs, feta cheese, walnuts, radishes and green onions, to be eaten with pita bread). Both of these were fine, though I was rather surprised that we were only served mint, instead of the traditional mint, basil and sometimes tarragon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We all four ordered varying \u003ca href=\"http://www.gastronomie-sf.com/2005/06/imbb_16_eggstat.html\">\u003cstrong>\u003cem>chelo-kabab\u003c/em>\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> dishes: two orders of \u003cem>Soltani \u003c/em>(one skewer each of \u003cem>barg\u003c/em>, marinated filet mignon and \u003cem>koobideh,\u003c/em> ground beef), one order of \u003cem>Bareh\u003c/em>(marinated chunks of boneless lamb) and an order of \u003cem>Joojeh\u003c/em> (boneless chicken marinated in yogurt and saffron).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The \u003cem>barg\u003c/em> kababs were wonderfully juicy, tender and flavorful. The \u003cem>koobideh \u003c/em>skewers were less successful--they were rather dry, and didn't have nearly enough onion. The \u003cem>bareh\u003c/em> was delicious and very tender--the best pieces had a bit of char on the edges. Each of these was served with a nice-sized portion of \u003ca href=\"http://sfmcclures.blogs.com/gastronomie/2005/01/persian_rice_or.html\">\u003cem>\u003cstrong>polow\u003c/strong>\u003c/em>\u003c/a> and a grilled tomato (which, like the eggplant, was undercooked--it should fall apart easily to be mixed in with the rice).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The \u003cem>joojeh\u003c/em> \u003cem>kabab \u003c/em>was very tasty and moist, and allowed for a nice option of \u003cem>zereshk polow \u003c/em>(rice with glazed barberries) instead of plain rice. This was arguably my favorite dish, and I would be likely to order it next time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For dessert, we had Persian tea all around, and an order of \u003cem>Bastani\u003c/em>, a rosewater-flavored ice cream with chunks of frozen cream folded in. Both were delicious, and a perfect way to end the meal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Overall, I really like having Papa's nearby for when I need a quick fix, but I don't think it's the best \u003cem>chelo kabab\u003c/em> in the area. For novices to Persian food, though, it's a great introduction with a friendly staff and easy-to-decipher menu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.papaspersiancuisine.com/\">\u003cstrong>Papa's Restaurant\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>2026 University Avenue\u003cbr>Berkeley\u003cbr>510-841-0884\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>As many Californians know, Los Angeles is often referred to these days as \"Tehrangeles\", so great is the population of Persians there. So, it's no surprise that there are \u003ca href=\"http://www.parstimes.com/cuisine/persian_restaurants.html\">\u003cstrong>dozens of Persian restaurants\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> and \u003cem>Chelo Kabab-i\u003c/em>s to choose from.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sadly, the same is not particularly true of the Bay Area; good Persian joints are few and far between. \u003ca href=\"http://sanfrancisco.citysearch.com/profile/11484328/\">\u003cstrong>Alborz Restaurant\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> is a particular favorite in our family (they even catered part of our wedding feast), but driving to the city each time we crave Chelo Kabab is sub-optimal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The other night, we happened upon Papa's Restaurant, about which we'd heard quite a lot, and decided to check it out.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Papa's is set along a stretch of University Avenue just west of Shattuck. It's a simple little place, with some Persian artwork on the walls, but otherwise rather sparse decor. There are perhaps 15 tables, and one extremely efficient woman serving all of them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Despite the fact that most Persian restaurants serve ridiculously large portions, we decided to order a few appetizers since (a) we were starving and (b) it was my in-laws' first visit to a Persian restaurant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I found our order of \u003ca href=\"http://www.gastronomie-sf.com/2005/08/kashke_bademjan_1.html\">\u003cem>\u003cstrong>Kashk-e Bademjan\u003c/strong>\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>to be just OK. The eggplants seemed a bit undercooked, and the unique tang of \u003cem>kashk\u003c/em> was missing. On the other hand, the \u003cem>mast-o mousir \u003c/em>(yogurt with shallots) was perfect--thick, rich strained yogurt with finely chopped shallot and spices.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We also had a \u003cem>sir-torshi \u003c/em>(pickled garlic) and \u003cem>panir-o-sabzi\u003c/em> (fresh herbs, feta cheese, walnuts, radishes and green onions, to be eaten with pita bread). Both of these were fine, though I was rather surprised that we were only served mint, instead of the traditional mint, basil and sometimes tarragon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We all four ordered varying \u003ca href=\"http://www.gastronomie-sf.com/2005/06/imbb_16_eggstat.html\">\u003cstrong>\u003cem>chelo-kabab\u003c/em>\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> dishes: two orders of \u003cem>Soltani \u003c/em>(one skewer each of \u003cem>barg\u003c/em>, marinated filet mignon and \u003cem>koobideh,\u003c/em> ground beef), one order of \u003cem>Bareh\u003c/em>(marinated chunks of boneless lamb) and an order of \u003cem>Joojeh\u003c/em> (boneless chicken marinated in yogurt and saffron).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The \u003cem>barg\u003c/em> kababs were wonderfully juicy, tender and flavorful. The \u003cem>koobideh \u003c/em>skewers were less successful--they were rather dry, and didn't have nearly enough onion. The \u003cem>bareh\u003c/em> was delicious and very tender--the best pieces had a bit of char on the edges. Each of these was served with a nice-sized portion of \u003ca href=\"http://sfmcclures.blogs.com/gastronomie/2005/01/persian_rice_or.html\">\u003cem>\u003cstrong>polow\u003c/strong>\u003c/em>\u003c/a> and a grilled tomato (which, like the eggplant, was undercooked--it should fall apart easily to be mixed in with the rice).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The \u003cem>joojeh\u003c/em> \u003cem>kabab \u003c/em>was very tasty and moist, and allowed for a nice option of \u003cem>zereshk polow \u003c/em>(rice with glazed barberries) instead of plain rice. This was arguably my favorite dish, and I would be likely to order it next time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For dessert, we had Persian tea all around, and an order of \u003cem>Bastani\u003c/em>, a rosewater-flavored ice cream with chunks of frozen cream folded in. Both were delicious, and a perfect way to end the meal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Overall, I really like having Papa's nearby for when I need a quick fix, but I don't think it's the best \u003cem>chelo kabab\u003c/em> in the area. For novices to Persian food, though, it's a great introduction with a friendly staff and easy-to-decipher menu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.papaspersiancuisine.com/\">\u003cstrong>Papa's Restaurant\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>2026 University Avenue\u003cbr>Berkeley\u003cbr>510-841-0884\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/chuck-birthday-767847.gif\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/chuck-birthday-765228.gif\" border=\"0\" alt=\"Chuck Williams 90th birthday invitation\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On Tuesday evening I had the great honor of attending \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/chronicle/archive/2005/10/05/FDGQMEVD1C1.DTL\">\u003cstrong>Chuck Williams's \u003c/strong>\u003c/a>(the founder of \u003ca href=\"http://ww5.williams-sonoma.com/\">\u003cstrong>Williams-Sonoma\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>) 90th birthday party at the expansive new Williams-Sonoma store on Union Square. I've worked with Chuck over the past 3 1/2 years on many of the Williams-Sonoma cookbooks, and hence the invitation, along with a number of my co-workers. In attendance were his friends, colleagues, and a whole bevy of who's who in the culinary world. Mayor Gavin Newsom even stopped by later in the evening.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As we entered the store, we were immediately offered sparkling glasses of kir royale and crisp white wine. I had heard prior to arriving that \u003ca href=\"http://www.paulaleduc.com/home2.html\">\u003cstrong>Paula LeDuc \u003c/strong>\u003c/a>was handling the catering and I was excited to finally have an opportunity to sample her wares. On either side of the first floor entry, tables were laden with cheeses and fresh and dried fruits. Waiters whisked through the crowd carrying platters of hors d'oeuvres, such as crisp cones of ahi tuna topped with wasabi roe, little crepe purses stuffed with shredded short ribs and creme fraiche, and fennel crisps topped with fromage blanc and pomegranate seeds. I was in heaven.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chuck showed up shortly after the festivities began, looking dapper as usual. He was in excellent spirits and thrilled by the turnout. A rousing rendition of \"Happy Birthday\" was sung by a surprise choir that appeared on the stairwell behind Chuck. A towering birthday \u003cem>croquembouche\u003c/em>, built from little puffs of choux filled with cream, each delicately encased in a thin layer of crisp caramel, was disassembled and offered to all. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When the crowd again dispersed, we made our way up to the top floor of the store to begin sampling food from the \"stations.\" At the top was a panini station where they were cranking out fresh sizzling ham and cheese panini on pan de mie and herbed foccacia, served alongside a creamy and very decadent potato-leek soup with truffle oil. Moving to the next floor down we hit the rack of lamb station. Tender chops, served with cones of crisp taro chips, were offered with two sauces: a hot, sweet mustard and a cilantro pesto. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But my favorite spread was back on the first floor, where a Moroccan theme was drawing in the crowd. Delicately spiced veal and pea tagine and creamy melt-in-your-mouth chicken with kabocha squash was served with fluffy herbed couscous and raisins, toasted Spanish almonds, and a tangy cherry tomato jam. I could have lived on this food forever. (I wish I had pictures to show you the gorgeous presentation. Now I understand why Paula LeDuc has the outstanding reputation that it has built over the years.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Completely sated, we made our way through the glamorous, cheerful crowd. Chuck seemed in high spirits as did all of those around him. And it seemed a remarkable and fitting way to celebrate his birthday. Happy birthday Chuck!\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/chuck-birthday-767847.gif\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/chuck-birthday-765228.gif\" border=\"0\" alt=\"Chuck Williams 90th birthday invitation\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On Tuesday evening I had the great honor of attending \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/chronicle/archive/2005/10/05/FDGQMEVD1C1.DTL\">\u003cstrong>Chuck Williams's \u003c/strong>\u003c/a>(the founder of \u003ca href=\"http://ww5.williams-sonoma.com/\">\u003cstrong>Williams-Sonoma\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>) 90th birthday party at the expansive new Williams-Sonoma store on Union Square. I've worked with Chuck over the past 3 1/2 years on many of the Williams-Sonoma cookbooks, and hence the invitation, along with a number of my co-workers. In attendance were his friends, colleagues, and a whole bevy of who's who in the culinary world. Mayor Gavin Newsom even stopped by later in the evening.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As we entered the store, we were immediately offered sparkling glasses of kir royale and crisp white wine. I had heard prior to arriving that \u003ca href=\"http://www.paulaleduc.com/home2.html\">\u003cstrong>Paula LeDuc \u003c/strong>\u003c/a>was handling the catering and I was excited to finally have an opportunity to sample her wares. On either side of the first floor entry, tables were laden with cheeses and fresh and dried fruits. Waiters whisked through the crowd carrying platters of hors d'oeuvres, such as crisp cones of ahi tuna topped with wasabi roe, little crepe purses stuffed with shredded short ribs and creme fraiche, and fennel crisps topped with fromage blanc and pomegranate seeds. I was in heaven.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chuck showed up shortly after the festivities began, looking dapper as usual. He was in excellent spirits and thrilled by the turnout. A rousing rendition of \"Happy Birthday\" was sung by a surprise choir that appeared on the stairwell behind Chuck. A towering birthday \u003cem>croquembouche\u003c/em>, built from little puffs of choux filled with cream, each delicately encased in a thin layer of crisp caramel, was disassembled and offered to all. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When the crowd again dispersed, we made our way up to the top floor of the store to begin sampling food from the \"stations.\" At the top was a panini station where they were cranking out fresh sizzling ham and cheese panini on pan de mie and herbed foccacia, served alongside a creamy and very decadent potato-leek soup with truffle oil. Moving to the next floor down we hit the rack of lamb station. Tender chops, served with cones of crisp taro chips, were offered with two sauces: a hot, sweet mustard and a cilantro pesto. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But my favorite spread was back on the first floor, where a Moroccan theme was drawing in the crowd. Delicately spiced veal and pea tagine and creamy melt-in-your-mouth chicken with kabocha squash was served with fluffy herbed couscous and raisins, toasted Spanish almonds, and a tangy cherry tomato jam. I could have lived on this food forever. (I wish I had pictures to show you the gorgeous presentation. Now I understand why Paula LeDuc has the outstanding reputation that it has built over the years.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Completely sated, we made our way through the glamorous, cheerful crowd. Chuck seemed in high spirits as did all of those around him. And it seemed a remarkable and fitting way to celebrate his birthday. Happy birthday Chuck!\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/jphevin4_300.jpg\">\u003cbr>\u003cem>chocolats apéritifs au fromage\u003c/em> (chocolate-cheese aperitifs)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I know I've prattled on endlessly about Pierre Hermé and he will forever remain my favorite simply because he allowed me to walk through his doors and experience the wonder of his chocolate factory, sans wonka-vator, first hand. But I would be remiss if I didn't give fair share to some of the others, and there are many, outstanding chocolatiers in Paris.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.jphevin.com/\">\u003cstrong>Jean-Paul Hévin\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> is one of them and actually the first 'haute couture' chocolate I savored here six years ago. His store rue Saint-Honoré was the most breath-taking I'd ever seen and Pierre Hermé no doubt took note of it when he designed his signature store on rue Bonaparte. There was certainly nothing like this in San Francisco when I was growing up, much less sleepy little Menlo Park, so I was in awe, a veritable 'kid in a candy store'. He now has 4 stores in Paris and 4 stores in Japan so if you are heading west, or east for that matter, check them out!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/jphevin_store.jpg\"> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Since Jean-Paul Hévin's first award in 1979 (a gold medal at the Concours International Gastronomique--International Culinary Competition--in Arpajon, France), he has won every competition offered, hitting his crescendo in 1986 when he was awarded the highest honor possible, the prestigious Meilleur Ouvrier de France (Best Craftsman in France) award in the pastry-confectionery division. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A friend I cooked with last year at the \u003ca href=\"http://cucinatestarossa.blogs.com/weblog/2004/05/bonjour_cannes.html\">\u003cstrong>Cannes Film Festival\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> was in France for the vendage (grape picking) in Burgundy and swung up to Paris for a few days. She thoughtfully handed me a beautiful little box and my eyes lit up as I'd know that box anywhere. Same as if you handed me a little blue box with a white ribbon. It could have a rock in it but if it's in that little blue box... anyways, my little \u003cem>brown\u003c/em> box thankfully did not have a rock but a sampling of Jean-Paul Hévin's chocolate-covered cheese collection!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I know, I'm a little slow on the draw as these came out as part of his millennium collection but better late...as they say. I'd never tasted such delights and was so excited to savor new combinations of flavors and textures, in this case chocolate and cheese and some herbs or nuts. His \u003cstrong>chocolats apéritifs au fromage\u003c/strong> (chocolate-cheese aperitifs) include, from the top clockwise: \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.formaggio.it/francia/pontlevequeE.htm\">\u003cstrong>Pont l'Evêque\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> \u003cstrong>parsemée de thym\u003c/strong> ~ Pont l'Evêque (cow's milk cheese from Normandy) sprinkled (literally: strewn) with thyme\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.formaggio.it/francia/pontlevequeE.htm\">\u003cstrong>Chèvre parsemée de noisette\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> ~ Goat's milk cheese sprinkled with hazelnuts\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Roquefort parsemée de noix\u003c/strong> ~ Blue Cheese sprinkled with walnuts\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.artisanalcheese.com/cheese/product1.cfm?SID=1&Product_ID=575&schString=epoisse&prodName=Epoisses\">\u003cstrong>Epoisse\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> parsemée de cumin ~ Epoisse (cow's milk cheese from Burgundy) sprinkled with cumin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the interest of full disclosure and fair journalism, I judiciously sampled all of them and it's a toss up between the Roquefort and the Epoisse. My favorite cheese is Epoisse but it's hard to beat the tangy, luscious Roquefort. You'll have to \u003ca href=\"http://www.jphevin.com/catalogue.php?type=expediables&id_produit=14\">\u003cstrong>order\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> some and decide for yourself! \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now if a few morsels by mail simply won't suffice, and I can't imagine how it could, you can always fly here and completely immerse yourself in this unctuous Parisian world via 2 Bay Area chocolate afficianados! \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/search-handle-url/index=books&field-author-exact=David%20Lebovitz&rank=-relevance%2C%2Bavailability%2C-daterank/002-1672131-0433604\">\u003cstrong>Author David Lebovitz\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>, former pastry chef at \u003ca href=\"http://www.chezpanisse.com/\">\u003cstrong>Chez Panisse\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> and a fellow Bay Area expat in Paris, offers his take on \u003ca href=\"http://www.davidlebovitz.com/archives/2005/10/index.html#000116\">\u003cstrong>the best chocolatier in Paris\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> as well as some other notables. When he's not writing books or exploring hidden corners of Paris, David gives amazing \u003ca href=\"http://www.davidlebovitz.com/tours.html\">\u003cstrong>chocolate tours\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> and is a guest pastry chef at \u003ca href=\"http://www.onruetatin.com/\">\u003cstrong>On Rue Tatin\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Berkeley's own \u003cstrong>Leonard Pitt\u003c/strong>, founder of the aptly named \u003ca href=\"http://www.berkeleychocolateclub.com/\">\u003cstrong>Berkeley Chocolate Club\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>, has written a book on the history of Paris, \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/2840962489/kqedorg-20.html\">\u003cstrong>Promenades dans le Paris Disparu\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>. When he is on this side of the pond, he gives chocolate tours (as well as historical tours) in Paris. I'm taking his chocolate tour tomorrow. I'll report back...as soon as I recover from my sugar coma.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>________________________________\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Jean-Paul Hévin\u003cbr>\u003ca href=\"http://www.jphevin.com\">www.jphevin.com\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>231, rue Saint-Honoré\u003cbr>75001 Paris\u003cbr>Tel : +33 (0)1 55 35 35 96\u003cbr>Fax : +33 (0)1 55 35 35 97\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>23 bis, avenue de la Motte-Picquet\u003cbr>75007 Paris\u003cbr>Tel : +33 (0)1 45 51 77 48\u003cbr>Fax : +33 (0)1 45 55 87 33\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>16, avenue de la Motte-Picquet\u003cbr>75007 Paris \u003cbr>Tel : +33 (0)1 45 51 99 49 \u003cbr>Fax : +33 (0)1 45 51 28 19\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3, rue Vavin\u003cbr>75006 Paris \u003cbr>Tel : +33 (0)1 43 54 09 85 \u003cbr>Fax : +33 (0)1 40 46 97 51\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"description": "chocolats apéritifs au fromage (chocolate-cheese aperitifs) I know I've prattled on endlessly about Pierre Hermé and he will forever remain my favorite simply because he allowed me to walk through his doors and experience the wonder of his chocolate factory, sans wonka-vator, first hand. But I would be remiss if I didn't give fair share",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/jphevin4_300.jpg\">\u003cbr>\u003cem>chocolats apéritifs au fromage\u003c/em> (chocolate-cheese aperitifs)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I know I've prattled on endlessly about Pierre Hermé and he will forever remain my favorite simply because he allowed me to walk through his doors and experience the wonder of his chocolate factory, sans wonka-vator, first hand. But I would be remiss if I didn't give fair share to some of the others, and there are many, outstanding chocolatiers in Paris.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.jphevin.com/\">\u003cstrong>Jean-Paul Hévin\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> is one of them and actually the first 'haute couture' chocolate I savored here six years ago. His store rue Saint-Honoré was the most breath-taking I'd ever seen and Pierre Hermé no doubt took note of it when he designed his signature store on rue Bonaparte. There was certainly nothing like this in San Francisco when I was growing up, much less sleepy little Menlo Park, so I was in awe, a veritable 'kid in a candy store'. He now has 4 stores in Paris and 4 stores in Japan so if you are heading west, or east for that matter, check them out!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/jphevin_store.jpg\"> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Since Jean-Paul Hévin's first award in 1979 (a gold medal at the Concours International Gastronomique--International Culinary Competition--in Arpajon, France), he has won every competition offered, hitting his crescendo in 1986 when he was awarded the highest honor possible, the prestigious Meilleur Ouvrier de France (Best Craftsman in France) award in the pastry-confectionery division. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A friend I cooked with last year at the \u003ca href=\"http://cucinatestarossa.blogs.com/weblog/2004/05/bonjour_cannes.html\">\u003cstrong>Cannes Film Festival\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> was in France for the vendage (grape picking) in Burgundy and swung up to Paris for a few days. She thoughtfully handed me a beautiful little box and my eyes lit up as I'd know that box anywhere. Same as if you handed me a little blue box with a white ribbon. It could have a rock in it but if it's in that little blue box... anyways, my little \u003cem>brown\u003c/em> box thankfully did not have a rock but a sampling of Jean-Paul Hévin's chocolate-covered cheese collection!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I know, I'm a little slow on the draw as these came out as part of his millennium collection but better late...as they say. I'd never tasted such delights and was so excited to savor new combinations of flavors and textures, in this case chocolate and cheese and some herbs or nuts. His \u003cstrong>chocolats apéritifs au fromage\u003c/strong> (chocolate-cheese aperitifs) include, from the top clockwise: \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.formaggio.it/francia/pontlevequeE.htm\">\u003cstrong>Pont l'Evêque\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> \u003cstrong>parsemée de thym\u003c/strong> ~ Pont l'Evêque (cow's milk cheese from Normandy) sprinkled (literally: strewn) with thyme\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.formaggio.it/francia/pontlevequeE.htm\">\u003cstrong>Chèvre parsemée de noisette\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> ~ Goat's milk cheese sprinkled with hazelnuts\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Roquefort parsemée de noix\u003c/strong> ~ Blue Cheese sprinkled with walnuts\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.artisanalcheese.com/cheese/product1.cfm?SID=1&Product_ID=575&schString=epoisse&prodName=Epoisses\">\u003cstrong>Epoisse\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> parsemée de cumin ~ Epoisse (cow's milk cheese from Burgundy) sprinkled with cumin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the interest of full disclosure and fair journalism, I judiciously sampled all of them and it's a toss up between the Roquefort and the Epoisse. My favorite cheese is Epoisse but it's hard to beat the tangy, luscious Roquefort. You'll have to \u003ca href=\"http://www.jphevin.com/catalogue.php?type=expediables&id_produit=14\">\u003cstrong>order\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> some and decide for yourself! \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now if a few morsels by mail simply won't suffice, and I can't imagine how it could, you can always fly here and completely immerse yourself in this unctuous Parisian world via 2 Bay Area chocolate afficianados! \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/search-handle-url/index=books&field-author-exact=David%20Lebovitz&rank=-relevance%2C%2Bavailability%2C-daterank/002-1672131-0433604\">\u003cstrong>Author David Lebovitz\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>, former pastry chef at \u003ca href=\"http://www.chezpanisse.com/\">\u003cstrong>Chez Panisse\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> and a fellow Bay Area expat in Paris, offers his take on \u003ca href=\"http://www.davidlebovitz.com/archives/2005/10/index.html#000116\">\u003cstrong>the best chocolatier in Paris\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> as well as some other notables. When he's not writing books or exploring hidden corners of Paris, David gives amazing \u003ca href=\"http://www.davidlebovitz.com/tours.html\">\u003cstrong>chocolate tours\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> and is a guest pastry chef at \u003ca href=\"http://www.onruetatin.com/\">\u003cstrong>On Rue Tatin\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Berkeley's own \u003cstrong>Leonard Pitt\u003c/strong>, founder of the aptly named \u003ca href=\"http://www.berkeleychocolateclub.com/\">\u003cstrong>Berkeley Chocolate Club\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>, has written a book on the history of Paris, \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/2840962489/kqedorg-20.html\">\u003cstrong>Promenades dans le Paris Disparu\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>. When he is on this side of the pond, he gives chocolate tours (as well as historical tours) in Paris. I'm taking his chocolate tour tomorrow. I'll report back...as soon as I recover from my sugar coma.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>________________________________\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Jean-Paul Hévin\u003cbr>\u003ca href=\"http://www.jphevin.com\">www.jphevin.com\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>231, rue Saint-Honoré\u003cbr>75001 Paris\u003cbr>Tel : +33 (0)1 55 35 35 96\u003cbr>Fax : +33 (0)1 55 35 35 97\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>23 bis, avenue de la Motte-Picquet\u003cbr>75007 Paris\u003cbr>Tel : +33 (0)1 45 51 77 48\u003cbr>Fax : +33 (0)1 45 55 87 33\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>16, avenue de la Motte-Picquet\u003cbr>75007 Paris \u003cbr>Tel : +33 (0)1 45 51 99 49 \u003cbr>Fax : +33 (0)1 45 51 28 19\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3, rue Vavin\u003cbr>75006 Paris \u003cbr>Tel : +33 (0)1 43 54 09 85 \u003cbr>Fax : +33 (0)1 40 46 97 51\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Mistress of Tea, Part I",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/tea2.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I am constantly amazed how the food world has exploded to such a degree that one can now become an expert in so many different fields -- pastries, bread, chocolate, cheese, coffee, olive oil, and, of course, tea. I met my good friend \u003cb>Sina Carroll\u003c/b> while we were both slinging cheese at Cowgirl Creamery in the Ferry Building, and even then, she was more knowledgeable about tea than your average Brit. You laugh, but I got my tea smarts from \u003ci>To the Manor Born\u003c/i>, \u003ci>Jeeves and Wooster\u003c/i>, Jane Austen, Agatha Christie, \u003ci>Upstairs, Downstairs\u003c/i>, and everything else on Mystery! and Masterpiece Theater. Currently, I'm addicted to and primarily drink Earl Grey. Out of a bag. I mix it up a bit with some Lemon Lift, Darjeeling, Constant Comment, and even English Breakfast. However, I am quite willing to learn what I'm missing. Luckily, Sina is quite willing to teach what she knows. Here is the first part of my interview with her.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Tell me, Sina, what exactly do you do?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I am a teabar tender and tea educator at \u003cb>\u003ca href=\"http://www.teance.com/tearoom.html\">Celadon\u003c/a>\u003c/b> in Albany. I serve premium grade, seasonal, whole leaf, loose leaf pesticide-free Asian teas (90% Chinese, 5% Indian, 5% rest: Taiwanese, Japanese) all in a traditional Chinese tea style of service using a Gaiwan (gai = lid, wan = bowl). I use other tea tools, like a strainer to pour the tea through, a server to pour it into, tongs to pick up cups with, a water pitcher to rinse everything with warm water so all teaweares are pre-heated, and little coasters to serve the tea on. I educate people about where tea is grown, harvested, processed, how people on tea farms live, how tea is imported, graded, bought, stored, made and served. I also help people choose specific teawares for appropriate teas, and [I inform] them [about] specific steeping times and temperatures for over 70 teas. I have been learning to do this for one year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>So, you must have massive qualifications -- what are they?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I started liking and learning about tea two years ago, after I was ill and unable to drink coffee or alcohol. I specifically wanted to learn more about tea, so I made a deal with teahouse owner James Labe (the first tea sommelier in the country for the W hotel in NYC, and now owner of \u003cb>\u003ca href=\"http://www.teahousechoice.com/\">Teahouse Kuan Yin in Seattle\u003c/a>\u003c/b>): his tea knowledge in return for me merchandising his store and helping to brand his product. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I moved to San Francisco rather spontaneously, but also with a mission to learn more about tea. When I came here, I didn't have a job, but I did have a few contacts. Alice Cravens, who provides Chez Panisse and Cafe Zuni with their tea program, was instrumental in my meeting Angela Justice, the wholesale representative for Teance (the name of Celadon's tea). Angela asked if I would consider a tea-internship. Winnie Yu, the owner of Celadon, agreed to take me on simply because she was impressed that I had struck out on a quest for knowledge and would give up a more or less easy life in search of my true passion: tea.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/tea1.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>How and when did you get into tea?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My parents never drank tea. The first cup of tea I remember having was in France about ten years ago -- it was a vanilla-linden flower tisane (herbal) tea. At one point, I was working for a coffee company in London and I attended the Birmingham Good Food Show with the coffee roasters. It was there that I saw huge bags of bulk wholesale tea for the first time. I was impressed. A few years later, I ran the \u003cb>\u003ca href=\"http://www.teuscher.com\">Teuscher\u003c/a>\u003c/b> chocolate shop in Seattle and I was in charge of the wholesale ordering of \u003cb>\u003ca href=\"http://www.mariagefreres.com/\">Mariage Frères\u003c/a>\u003c/b> teas. That was the first time I ever brewed whole leaf, loose leaf tea -- it was the highest quality tea I had experienced yet. However, I was still a pretty dedicated coffee drinker. But then, I got ill and was unable to ingest certain foods and, since coffee was among them, I drank herbal tea and subsequently discovered white tea and oolong tea.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Why should more people drink tea?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I don't advocate trading coffee for tea, rather consider \u003ci>including\u003c/i> tea in your day. Open yourself up to seasonal, whole leaf, loose leaf, premium grade quality tea and incorporate them into your repertoire of delicious drinks to enjoy. Personally, I still enjoy a cappuccino...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>How do you feel about \"bagged tea\"?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I feel really sad when I think about bag tea.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/tea2.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I am constantly amazed how the food world has exploded to such a degree that one can now become an expert in so many different fields -- pastries, bread, chocolate, cheese, coffee, olive oil, and, of course, tea. I met my good friend \u003cb>Sina Carroll\u003c/b> while we were both slinging cheese at Cowgirl Creamery in the Ferry Building, and even then, she was more knowledgeable about tea than your average Brit. You laugh, but I got my tea smarts from \u003ci>To the Manor Born\u003c/i>, \u003ci>Jeeves and Wooster\u003c/i>, Jane Austen, Agatha Christie, \u003ci>Upstairs, Downstairs\u003c/i>, and everything else on Mystery! and Masterpiece Theater. Currently, I'm addicted to and primarily drink Earl Grey. Out of a bag. I mix it up a bit with some Lemon Lift, Darjeeling, Constant Comment, and even English Breakfast. However, I am quite willing to learn what I'm missing. Luckily, Sina is quite willing to teach what she knows. Here is the first part of my interview with her.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Tell me, Sina, what exactly do you do?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I am a teabar tender and tea educator at \u003cb>\u003ca href=\"http://www.teance.com/tearoom.html\">Celadon\u003c/a>\u003c/b> in Albany. I serve premium grade, seasonal, whole leaf, loose leaf pesticide-free Asian teas (90% Chinese, 5% Indian, 5% rest: Taiwanese, Japanese) all in a traditional Chinese tea style of service using a Gaiwan (gai = lid, wan = bowl). I use other tea tools, like a strainer to pour the tea through, a server to pour it into, tongs to pick up cups with, a water pitcher to rinse everything with warm water so all teaweares are pre-heated, and little coasters to serve the tea on. I educate people about where tea is grown, harvested, processed, how people on tea farms live, how tea is imported, graded, bought, stored, made and served. I also help people choose specific teawares for appropriate teas, and [I inform] them [about] specific steeping times and temperatures for over 70 teas. I have been learning to do this for one year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>So, you must have massive qualifications -- what are they?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I started liking and learning about tea two years ago, after I was ill and unable to drink coffee or alcohol. I specifically wanted to learn more about tea, so I made a deal with teahouse owner James Labe (the first tea sommelier in the country for the W hotel in NYC, and now owner of \u003cb>\u003ca href=\"http://www.teahousechoice.com/\">Teahouse Kuan Yin in Seattle\u003c/a>\u003c/b>): his tea knowledge in return for me merchandising his store and helping to brand his product. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I moved to San Francisco rather spontaneously, but also with a mission to learn more about tea. When I came here, I didn't have a job, but I did have a few contacts. Alice Cravens, who provides Chez Panisse and Cafe Zuni with their tea program, was instrumental in my meeting Angela Justice, the wholesale representative for Teance (the name of Celadon's tea). Angela asked if I would consider a tea-internship. Winnie Yu, the owner of Celadon, agreed to take me on simply because she was impressed that I had struck out on a quest for knowledge and would give up a more or less easy life in search of my true passion: tea.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/tea1.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>How and when did you get into tea?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My parents never drank tea. The first cup of tea I remember having was in France about ten years ago -- it was a vanilla-linden flower tisane (herbal) tea. At one point, I was working for a coffee company in London and I attended the Birmingham Good Food Show with the coffee roasters. It was there that I saw huge bags of bulk wholesale tea for the first time. I was impressed. A few years later, I ran the \u003cb>\u003ca href=\"http://www.teuscher.com\">Teuscher\u003c/a>\u003c/b> chocolate shop in Seattle and I was in charge of the wholesale ordering of \u003cb>\u003ca href=\"http://www.mariagefreres.com/\">Mariage Frères\u003c/a>\u003c/b> teas. That was the first time I ever brewed whole leaf, loose leaf tea -- it was the highest quality tea I had experienced yet. However, I was still a pretty dedicated coffee drinker. But then, I got ill and was unable to ingest certain foods and, since coffee was among them, I drank herbal tea and subsequently discovered white tea and oolong tea.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Why should more people drink tea?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I don't advocate trading coffee for tea, rather consider \u003ci>including\u003c/i> tea in your day. Open yourself up to seasonal, whole leaf, loose leaf, premium grade quality tea and incorporate them into your repertoire of delicious drinks to enjoy. Personally, I still enjoy a cappuccino...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>How do you feel about \"bagged tea\"?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I feel really sad when I think about bag tea.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/saigon3.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At 10:15am we drove by \u003ca href=\"http://www.cyberbilly.com/meathenge/archives/000581.html\">\u003cstrong>Saigon Seafood Harbor Restaurant\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> and the parking lot was nearly empty. Early for our dim sum date, we decided to do a quick run-through at \u003ca href=\"http://members.tripod.com/~BayGourmet/ranch99.html\">\u003cstrong>Ranch 99\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>, the cavernous Asian supermarket, where you can find everything from fresh Japanese ramen noodles to ready-to-steam Chinese buns filled with bean paste to pork. After our quick run-through, we headed back to the restaurant to find the parking lot nearly full, only 15 minutes later.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We were quickly whisked to a table across from the chefs who were ladling up pots of thick, steamy soup and savory stir-fried mustard greens, near stacks of fresh seafood tanks brimming with crabs, lobsters, and clams. Our friends arrived shortly after the hot pot of jasmine tea was delivered to our table, and the ordering began in ernest.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/saigon2.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Peter and Peter (our friends who had joined us and recommended this place) had dined here many many times, so we left it to them to order. And order they did. From vegetable siu mei, little steamed dumplings filled with lotus root and mushrooms, to a plate of shredded jellyfish and seaweed salad, we ordered course after course from the carts and trays that were offered continously throughout our eating extravaganza.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'm personally not a fan of shrimp (so shoot me) but everyone I was with was, so we ordered big shrimp balls (chopped shrimp mixed with rice), plump shrimp tucked into slippery rice noodles, puffy fried shrimp rolls, delicate steamed shrimp and scallop dumplings, and traditional steamed shrimp and pork siu mei dumplings. I tried them all, and being a shrimp-non-lover, even I thought they were good.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Little puffy steamed pork buns arrived, and I was in heaven. And then I found all the other lovely things they could do with pork: crispy BBQ pork pastries and round baked pork rolls, steamed pork short ribs, and thin layers of bean curd rolled around a pork and shrimp filling (for even this I could forgive the shrimpy shellfish).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/saigon1.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Going to eat dim sum is like going to a smorgasbord of food, fun, and flavors. As the waiters go by, you get to choose things you only have an instant to decide whether you might love or would rather have passed by. A plate of mini red octopus (surprisingly sweet and cold but delicious nonetheless), cold poached chicken served with a heady ginger-green onion sauce, crispy-fried shredded taro root cakes, and the most delicious surprise of all, fried salt-and-pepper tofu sprinkled with deep-fried baby eels and garlic (incredibly crispy on the outside and sooooo creamy on the inside, which I could not stop eating, even after I thought I would burst).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A few things I could have lived without, like the glutinous rice steamed in a lotus leaf with chicken and mushrooms (um, oh so glutinous) or the steamed chicken with dried mushroom and some sort of glutinous gelatinous blob (are you seeing a trend here?). But overall, there were so many offerings, I only wished I could have tried more (like the beautiful seared potstickers I never got to sink my teeth into - drat). Maybe next time we'll come with a much bigger group of people--which I recommend--so we can share the bounty. But we'd better get there early, because by the time we left, around noon, it was beyond packed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Saigon Seafood Harbor Restaurant\u003cbr>3150 Pierce St. (at Central)\u003cbr>Richmond, CA\u003cbr>(510) 559-9388\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/saigon3.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At 10:15am we drove by \u003ca href=\"http://www.cyberbilly.com/meathenge/archives/000581.html\">\u003cstrong>Saigon Seafood Harbor Restaurant\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> and the parking lot was nearly empty. Early for our dim sum date, we decided to do a quick run-through at \u003ca href=\"http://members.tripod.com/~BayGourmet/ranch99.html\">\u003cstrong>Ranch 99\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>, the cavernous Asian supermarket, where you can find everything from fresh Japanese ramen noodles to ready-to-steam Chinese buns filled with bean paste to pork. After our quick run-through, we headed back to the restaurant to find the parking lot nearly full, only 15 minutes later.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We were quickly whisked to a table across from the chefs who were ladling up pots of thick, steamy soup and savory stir-fried mustard greens, near stacks of fresh seafood tanks brimming with crabs, lobsters, and clams. Our friends arrived shortly after the hot pot of jasmine tea was delivered to our table, and the ordering began in ernest.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/saigon2.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Peter and Peter (our friends who had joined us and recommended this place) had dined here many many times, so we left it to them to order. And order they did. From vegetable siu mei, little steamed dumplings filled with lotus root and mushrooms, to a plate of shredded jellyfish and seaweed salad, we ordered course after course from the carts and trays that were offered continously throughout our eating extravaganza.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'm personally not a fan of shrimp (so shoot me) but everyone I was with was, so we ordered big shrimp balls (chopped shrimp mixed with rice), plump shrimp tucked into slippery rice noodles, puffy fried shrimp rolls, delicate steamed shrimp and scallop dumplings, and traditional steamed shrimp and pork siu mei dumplings. I tried them all, and being a shrimp-non-lover, even I thought they were good.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Little puffy steamed pork buns arrived, and I was in heaven. And then I found all the other lovely things they could do with pork: crispy BBQ pork pastries and round baked pork rolls, steamed pork short ribs, and thin layers of bean curd rolled around a pork and shrimp filling (for even this I could forgive the shrimpy shellfish).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/saigon1.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Going to eat dim sum is like going to a smorgasbord of food, fun, and flavors. As the waiters go by, you get to choose things you only have an instant to decide whether you might love or would rather have passed by. A plate of mini red octopus (surprisingly sweet and cold but delicious nonetheless), cold poached chicken served with a heady ginger-green onion sauce, crispy-fried shredded taro root cakes, and the most delicious surprise of all, fried salt-and-pepper tofu sprinkled with deep-fried baby eels and garlic (incredibly crispy on the outside and sooooo creamy on the inside, which I could not stop eating, even after I thought I would burst).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A few things I could have lived without, like the glutinous rice steamed in a lotus leaf with chicken and mushrooms (um, oh so glutinous) or the steamed chicken with dried mushroom and some sort of glutinous gelatinous blob (are you seeing a trend here?). But overall, there were so many offerings, I only wished I could have tried more (like the beautiful seared potstickers I never got to sink my teeth into - drat). Maybe next time we'll come with a much bigger group of people--which I recommend--so we can share the bounty. But we'd better get there early, because by the time we left, around noon, it was beyond packed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Saigon Seafood Harbor Restaurant\u003cbr>3150 Pierce St. (at Central)\u003cbr>Richmond, CA\u003cbr>(510) 559-9388\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>So what do Paul Newman, Sidney Poitier, and a little unassuming jazz club in Paris have in common? Turns out, a lot!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Le Bilboquet\u003c/strong>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0055278/\">\u003cstrong>\u003cem>Paris Blues\u003c/em>\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>, and the \u003cstrong>history of jazz\u003c/strong> are intrinsically intertwined as the history of jazz was written in this inimitable Belle Epoque salon founded in 1947 right in the heart of Saint-Germain-des-Près. Unlike America at the time, jazz was embraced here in France and racism was not pervasive so the greats headed east to Paris and \u003cstrong>Le Bilboquet\u003c/strong>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Jazz music was immortalized at this corner club by legends Billie Holiday, Miles Davis, Kenny Clarke, Duke Ellington, Art Blakey, Dizzy Gilespie, Lionel Hampton and Charlie Parker, to name a few, and the era was celebrated by Paul Newman, Sidney Poitier, Joanne Woodward, and Diahann Carroll in the movie \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0055278/\">\u003cstrong>Paris Blues\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Le Bilboquet\u003c/strong> is now a restaurant-jazz club-piano bar serving up some of the best music in Paris amongst dark wood panels topped with a copper ceiling, brass trim and a sunken bar on the bottom floor. The three levels offer unobstructed views of the band from every corner and on any given night you will hear Nat King Cole's \"Route 66\" or \"Straighten Up and Fly Right\" resonating from the walls. You'll catch yourself singing along and tapping your toes as it permeates your thoughts and for a moment you forget you are six thousand miles away from home...but then again, this \u003cem>is \u003c/em>home. For now...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Their menu is limited with classical French light fare and a few attempts at fusion. Unfortunately it is not as legendary as their musical memoirs but if you have friends in town who are fans of the blues, this is a wonderful slice of American-French history to share. A friend and former co-worker at a Huge Software Company came to town a few weeks ago. Their yellow labrador is named Jango so I figured Le Bilboquet would be a safe bet. Voila le menu...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Avocat épicé et tartare de thon \u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\u003cem>Spicy avocado purée with tuna tartar\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Melon nature\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\u003cem>Melon (and they weren't kidding! this was a bit awkward and more like eating breakfast than an appetizer but as far a fruit goes, it was sweet and delicious)\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\u003cimg>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Pavé de sandre au beurre blanc \u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\u003cem>Pike in a butter sauce\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Thon juste saisi saté\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\u003cem>Seared tuna with a soy-teriyaki sauce (this was delicious and cooked perfectly!)\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Blanc de poulet rôti, chutney et curry\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\u003cem>Roasted chicken breast with chutney and curry (the curry was really nice, not too spicy, deep layers of rich flavors)\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The music was getting a bit too loud to talk so we went to a little corner bistro a few blocks away for a café and a gateau chocolate moelleux (the soft chocolate lava cake)! Sorry, forgot to take a pic of that. Next time...as there will definitely be a next time...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Le Bilboquet \u003c/strong>\u003cbr>13 rue St-Benoit, 75006 Paris\u003cbr>Phone: +33 1 45 48 81 84\u003cbr>Metro: (#4) St-Germain-des-Près or (#10) Mabillon\u003cbr>Hours: nightly 8:30pm to 2:00am, with music beginning at 9:30pm\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"info": "Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.",
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"restaurantDataById": {},
"restaurantIdsSorted": [],
"error": null
},
"userAgentReducer": {
"userAgent": "Mozilla/5.0 AppleWebKit/537.36 (KHTML, like Gecko; compatible; ClaudeBot/1.0; +claudebot@anthropic.com)",
"isBot": true
}
}
