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"disqusTitle": "Rizogalo: Rice Pudding, Greek Style",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/Rizogalo1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/Rizogalo1.jpg\" alt=\"Rizogalo\" title=\"Rizogalo\" width=\"233\" height=\"350\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-16021\">\u003c/a>The Greeks have their own, particular way of doing things: eating, speaking, dancing with chairs balanced on their chins, dressing, getting excited when anything that can be broken is smashed onto the floor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I like to call it Greek style. Or Greek-style, depending upon the activity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Whatever they are doing, it is often loud and (sometimes irritatingly) proud. This brashness isn't particularly different from any other once-great culture who happened to spend centuries getting kicked around by other Empires-du-jour. It's just the culture I am surrounded by for thirty hours every week at work.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Five or six days a week, I see the Greek men who proudly show off my place of business to their dinner guests as if it were their own home. I count the little Greek flags pinned to their lapels, I bring them more food than anyone could possibly eat because, as one Greek said to me years ago when I quietly suggested he might be ordering too much food for his guests:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Of \u003cem>course\u003c/em> it's too much. I want these people \u003cem>overwhelmed\u003c/em>. I can't have them saying they never got enough to eat.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Well, okay then. When I went upstairs to order the 27,000,000 plates of mezethes he demanded, I realized something: This guy may have been one of the richest men in San Francisco-- a self-made, honest-to-God Greek Tycoon, but he was also a child of the Great Depression who grew into an early manhood under the oppressive thumb of Nazi occupation and its resulting near-starvation-- a time when people survived on little more than boiled weeds (\u003cem>horta\u003c/em>)-- a dish we also serve, but was conspicuously absent from his order.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Greeks-- at least the old ones-- know about starvation. To let anyone who comes under their roof go hungry is to shame an entire culture. It would break the laws of \u003cem>philoxenia\u003c/em> (hospitality) or, worse-- it would break the heart of their dear, sainted \u003cem>yia-yias\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Perhaps that last statement was a little melodramatic, but it's the Greeks we're talking about here. I mean, they \u003cem>invented\u003c/em> drama. I can't say I blame them for overdoing it on the food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The odd thing I find about Greek people versus Greek food is that, where the Greeks themselves can be frequently over the top in their hand gestures, speaking voices, clothing and just about everything else, Greek food is refreshingly, wonderfully simple. It is what it is, which is often straightforward, fresh, and unadorned. And totally delicious.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Maybe they avoid high numbers of ingredients for any given dish because they know they're going to wind up cooking enough of it to feed Alexander the Great's army. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ah, those were the days. I can just hear an old Greek woman saying, \"Now \u003cem>there\u003c/em> was a great Greek man. Of course, he broke his mother's heart by not marrying a Greek girl and look what happened...\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/Wooden-Spoon-in-Rice-Pudding.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/Wooden-Spoon-in-Rice-Pudding.jpg\" alt=\"Wooden Spoon in Rice Pudding\" title=\"Wooden Spoon in Rice Pudding\" width=\"285\" height=\"350\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-16018\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Rizogalo\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Greek rice pudding is just one of those delightfully straightforward, simple dishes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>However simple it may be to make, it is not so simple for non-Greek people to pronounce. And I feel strongly that this dessert must be pronounced correctly before one should be allowed to eat it. Otherwise, one is just eating some rice pudding that any other culture might make. And then it wouldn't be Greek, so what would be the point?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It didn't take me long grasp the need to tackle the difficulties of mastering Greek pronunciation. In fact, it was this particular dessert that made me realize that, if I was going to be working in a Greek restaurant, I was going to have to start saying things correctly in order to be taken seriously.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One evening as I delivered dessert menus to a sweet, elderly, Old Country Greek couple, I mentioned that our \u003cem>Ree\u003cstrong>-zo-Gah\u003c/strong>-low\u003c/em> was delicious. The woman blanched and said to me, \"You are not Greek!\" and then, took my arm and uttered the correct way to say it, pulling down as if to tear my limb from its socket at the correct moment of emphasis.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\"Ri-\u003cstrong>Zho\u003c/strong>-gha-loh!\"\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She then let go of my arm, ordered some Greek coffee and asked,\"If you are not Greek-- and you are \u003cem>not\u003c/em> Greek, where are your people from, because you look like you could be Greek.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Well, my dad's family is Sicilian,\" I answered, not wanting to explain that my father is, in fact, only half Sicilian.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"\u003cem>Sicilian?\u003c/em>\" she said as she looked at her husband. \"That's okay, isn't it?\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To which he replied, \"Una faccia, una razza.\" One face, one race.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>His wife beamed. She took my same arm, but this time, she patted it. She gave me a barely perceptible nod and then said, \"You're okay. We like you, but learn to pronounce Greek!\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Serves 4 to 6 old greek men\u003c/strong>, a mere scraping of the bowl by their standards.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 ½ cups whole milk\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3/4 cups arborio rice, washed\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cinnamon stick\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 egg yolks, lightly beaten\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon of vanilla extract (or more to taste)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2- 3/4 cups of granulated sugar, depending upon your love of sweetness\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Powdered cinnamon for garnish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. In a medium saucepan (why is it that I feel as though I begin everything with \"In a medium saucepan?\"), pour the milk and add the cinnamon stick. Bring to a boil, then let simmer over low heat for about 5 minutes. Add rice and simmer for about 15 minutes, stirring frequently (think of it as a very loose risotto-- you want to release the rice starch).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Temper your awaiting, lightly beaten egg yolks with some of the hot milk, then add the yolk/milk mixture to the simmering rice. Stir in sugar. Stir everything. Stir Crazy, for all I'm concerned. Continue to cook until the you can draw a line in the custardy sauce on the back of a wooden spoon (see: above photo). Add Vanilla extract. If you like your rice pudding loose and very creamy, stop cooking now. If you like it firmer and drier, continue to cook until most of the liquid has been absorbed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Pour out into a large bowl to cool. Cover and refrigerate overnight.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. To serve, spoon the pudding into little yogurt glasses you bought for breakfast at the little grocery store in the Marais and then took home with you because they remind you of someone from a Greek family who makes you very, very happy whenever you think about him. Garnish with cinnamon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5. Eat.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "The Greeks-- at least the old ones-- know about starvation. To let anyone who comes under their roof go hungry is to shame an entire culture. It would break the laws of \u003cem>philoxenia\u003c/em> (hospitality) or, worse-- it would break the heart of their dear, sainted \u003cem>yia-yias\u003c/em>.\r\n\r\nPerhaps that last statement was a little melodramatic, but it's the Greeks we're talking about here. I mean, they \u003cem>invented\u003c/em> drama. I can't say I blame them for overdoing it on the food.",
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"description": "The Greeks-- at least the old ones-- know about starvation. To let anyone who comes under their roof go hungry is to shame an entire culture. It would break the laws of philoxenia (hospitality) or, worse-- it would break the heart of their dear, sainted yia-yias.\r\n\r\nPerhaps that last statement was a little melodramatic, but it's the Greeks we're talking about here. I mean, they invented drama. I can't say I blame them for overdoing it on the food.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/Rizogalo1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/Rizogalo1.jpg\" alt=\"Rizogalo\" title=\"Rizogalo\" width=\"233\" height=\"350\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-16021\">\u003c/a>The Greeks have their own, particular way of doing things: eating, speaking, dancing with chairs balanced on their chins, dressing, getting excited when anything that can be broken is smashed onto the floor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I like to call it Greek style. Or Greek-style, depending upon the activity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Whatever they are doing, it is often loud and (sometimes irritatingly) proud. This brashness isn't particularly different from any other once-great culture who happened to spend centuries getting kicked around by other Empires-du-jour. It's just the culture I am surrounded by for thirty hours every week at work.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Five or six days a week, I see the Greek men who proudly show off my place of business to their dinner guests as if it were their own home. I count the little Greek flags pinned to their lapels, I bring them more food than anyone could possibly eat because, as one Greek said to me years ago when I quietly suggested he might be ordering too much food for his guests:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Of \u003cem>course\u003c/em> it's too much. I want these people \u003cem>overwhelmed\u003c/em>. I can't have them saying they never got enough to eat.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Well, okay then. When I went upstairs to order the 27,000,000 plates of mezethes he demanded, I realized something: This guy may have been one of the richest men in San Francisco-- a self-made, honest-to-God Greek Tycoon, but he was also a child of the Great Depression who grew into an early manhood under the oppressive thumb of Nazi occupation and its resulting near-starvation-- a time when people survived on little more than boiled weeds (\u003cem>horta\u003c/em>)-- a dish we also serve, but was conspicuously absent from his order.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Greeks-- at least the old ones-- know about starvation. To let anyone who comes under their roof go hungry is to shame an entire culture. It would break the laws of \u003cem>philoxenia\u003c/em> (hospitality) or, worse-- it would break the heart of their dear, sainted \u003cem>yia-yias\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Perhaps that last statement was a little melodramatic, but it's the Greeks we're talking about here. I mean, they \u003cem>invented\u003c/em> drama. I can't say I blame them for overdoing it on the food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The odd thing I find about Greek people versus Greek food is that, where the Greeks themselves can be frequently over the top in their hand gestures, speaking voices, clothing and just about everything else, Greek food is refreshingly, wonderfully simple. It is what it is, which is often straightforward, fresh, and unadorned. And totally delicious.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Maybe they avoid high numbers of ingredients for any given dish because they know they're going to wind up cooking enough of it to feed Alexander the Great's army. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ah, those were the days. I can just hear an old Greek woman saying, \"Now \u003cem>there\u003c/em> was a great Greek man. Of course, he broke his mother's heart by not marrying a Greek girl and look what happened...\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/Wooden-Spoon-in-Rice-Pudding.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/Wooden-Spoon-in-Rice-Pudding.jpg\" alt=\"Wooden Spoon in Rice Pudding\" title=\"Wooden Spoon in Rice Pudding\" width=\"285\" height=\"350\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-16018\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Rizogalo\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Greek rice pudding is just one of those delightfully straightforward, simple dishes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>However simple it may be to make, it is not so simple for non-Greek people to pronounce. And I feel strongly that this dessert must be pronounced correctly before one should be allowed to eat it. Otherwise, one is just eating some rice pudding that any other culture might make. And then it wouldn't be Greek, so what would be the point?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It didn't take me long grasp the need to tackle the difficulties of mastering Greek pronunciation. In fact, it was this particular dessert that made me realize that, if I was going to be working in a Greek restaurant, I was going to have to start saying things correctly in order to be taken seriously.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One evening as I delivered dessert menus to a sweet, elderly, Old Country Greek couple, I mentioned that our \u003cem>Ree\u003cstrong>-zo-Gah\u003c/strong>-low\u003c/em> was delicious. The woman blanched and said to me, \"You are not Greek!\" and then, took my arm and uttered the correct way to say it, pulling down as if to tear my limb from its socket at the correct moment of emphasis.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\"Ri-\u003cstrong>Zho\u003c/strong>-gha-loh!\"\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She then let go of my arm, ordered some Greek coffee and asked,\"If you are not Greek-- and you are \u003cem>not\u003c/em> Greek, where are your people from, because you look like you could be Greek.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Well, my dad's family is Sicilian,\" I answered, not wanting to explain that my father is, in fact, only half Sicilian.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"\u003cem>Sicilian?\u003c/em>\" she said as she looked at her husband. \"That's okay, isn't it?\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To which he replied, \"Una faccia, una razza.\" One face, one race.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>His wife beamed. She took my same arm, but this time, she patted it. She gave me a barely perceptible nod and then said, \"You're okay. We like you, but learn to pronounce Greek!\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Serves 4 to 6 old greek men\u003c/strong>, a mere scraping of the bowl by their standards.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 ½ cups whole milk\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3/4 cups arborio rice, washed\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cinnamon stick\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 egg yolks, lightly beaten\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon of vanilla extract (or more to taste)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2- 3/4 cups of granulated sugar, depending upon your love of sweetness\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Powdered cinnamon for garnish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. In a medium saucepan (why is it that I feel as though I begin everything with \"In a medium saucepan?\"), pour the milk and add the cinnamon stick. Bring to a boil, then let simmer over low heat for about 5 minutes. Add rice and simmer for about 15 minutes, stirring frequently (think of it as a very loose risotto-- you want to release the rice starch).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Temper your awaiting, lightly beaten egg yolks with some of the hot milk, then add the yolk/milk mixture to the simmering rice. Stir in sugar. Stir everything. Stir Crazy, for all I'm concerned. Continue to cook until the you can draw a line in the custardy sauce on the back of a wooden spoon (see: above photo). Add Vanilla extract. If you like your rice pudding loose and very creamy, stop cooking now. If you like it firmer and drier, continue to cook until most of the liquid has been absorbed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Pour out into a large bowl to cool. Cover and refrigerate overnight.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. To serve, spoon the pudding into little yogurt glasses you bought for breakfast at the little grocery store in the Marais and then took home with you because they remind you of someone from a Greek family who makes you very, very happy whenever you think about him. Garnish with cinnamon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "Maui: Top 10 Eats",
"title": "Maui: Top 10 Eats",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/Intro.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/Intro.jpg\" alt=\"Maui\" title=\"Maui\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15975\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are many reasons I love living in the Bay Area. The climate, the food, the people…the proximity to Hawaii. Which brings me to the many reasons I've fallen so hard for \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/07/14/alii-kula-lavender-farm-maui/\">Maui\u003c/a>. The climate, the food, the people… \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I had the good fortune to attend the \u003ca href=\"http://lickmyspoon.com/foodmusings/maui-edition-2010-kapalua-wine-and-food-festival/\">Kapalua Wine and Food Festival\u003c/a> not too long ago, and while I was in town, decided to treat myself to a few extra days of blue skies, ocean breeze, and of course, good eats. The food we discovered on Maui was an interesting mix of hearty no-frills home-cooking, and high-end fine dining. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Without further ado, here's my guide to eating your way through paradise: \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>1.\tDa Kitchen ($$)\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/Maui_Da-Kitchen-1370.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/Maui_Da-Kitchen-1370.jpg\" alt=\"short ribs at Da Kitchen, Maui\" title=\"short ribs at Da Kitchen, Maui\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-15994\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This bustling local hot spot is hardly a well-kept secret. Locals and tourists alike head to \u003cstrong>Da Kitchen\u003c/strong> for heaping portions of solid home-cooking, Hawaiian style. Conveniently located near the Kahului airport (OGG), it is an awesome way to kick off (and cap off) your Maui eatfest -- yes, it was so good, it was not only my first meal on the island, I made sure it was my last as well. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I boarded the plane back to SFO with an order of the \u003cstrong>Kalbi Ribs\u003c/strong> to go, and boy, were the folks in the next row jealous. They kept making eyes at my dinner: five big slabs of tender charbroiled short ribs, marinated in a house teriyaki sauce.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Da Kitchen is notorious for their \"big boy\"-sized servings. The plate lunches are their specialty, all served with two scoops of steamed rice and a side of potato mac salad or green salad. If delicious, savory short ribs aren’t your style, try \u003cstrong>Da \"Lau Lau\" Plate\u003c/strong> (two steamed pieces of cured fatty pork wrapped in taro leaves with a side of lomi salmon), \u003cstrong>Loco Moco\u003c/strong> (homemade burger patty topped with two eggs, onions, mushrooms and gravy), or \u003cstrong>Chicken Katsu\u003c/strong> (chicken breaded in panko batter, served with a Japanese BBQ sauce). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.da-kitchen.com/\">Da Kitchen\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n425 Koloa St, Ste 104\u003cbr>\nKahului, HI 96732\u003cbr>\n(808) 871-7782\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Open Mon-Fri 11 am – 8 pm; Sat 11 am – 4 pm (call ahead of time, they sometimes close later if it's busy)\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>2.\tUlulani's Shave Ice ($)\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/IMG_6724.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/IMG_6724.jpg\" alt=\"Ululani's shave ice, Maui\" title=\"Ululani's shave ice, Maui\" width=\"333\" height=\"500\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-15974\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You can't go to Hawaii without getting a taste of \u003cstrong>Shave Ice\u003c/strong>. \u003ca href=\"http://ululanisshaveice.com/\">Ululani's Hawaiian Shave Ice\u003c/a> puts snow cones to shame. Shoot, it even puts most other shave ice places to shame. You may be asking yourself, what's the big deal? It's just ice and syrup, right? Wrong. It is powdery soft, creamy, icy magic, flavored with joy. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There's a reason this spot boasts a perfect 5 star score with 130 reviews and counting on \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/ululanis-hawaiian-shave-ice-lahaina\">Yelp\u003c/a>. The stuff is amazing. The ice is shaved so fine that it actually produces a \u003cem>creamy\u003c/em> texture. 95% of Ululani's flavors are made with premium purees, concentrates and/or extracts. These homemade syrups are what set Ululani's shave ice apart from all the rest. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I tried their most popular flavor combo, the \u003cstrong>Haleakala\u003c/strong>, and fell in love. ½ coconut and ½ leche (a milky flavor with soft hints of cinnamon and nutmeg), topped with their signature \"snow cap\" (a sweet condensed milk and cream mixture). To. Die. For. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Read more about \u003cstrong>David and Ululani Yamashiro's\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://www.mauimagazine.net/Maui-Magazine/July-August-2010/Five-Star-Shave-Ice/\">sweet story\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ululanisshaveice.com/\">Ululani's Hawaiian Shave Ice\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n819 Front St\u003cbr>\nLahaina, HI 96761\u003cbr>\n(360) 609-5678\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Open every day, 11 am – 10 pm\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>3. Lahaina Grill ($$$$)\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/Lahaina-Grill-quad.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/Lahaina-Grill-quad.jpg\" alt=\"Lahaina Grill, Maui\" title=\"Lahaina Grill, Maui\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-15977\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.lahainagrill.com/\">Lahaina Grill\u003c/a> was our favorite splurge meal of the trip. The setting was comfortable and unassuming, the service was on point and friendly, and the food was phenomenal. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Our picks: The \u003cstrong>Seared Ahi and Hudson Valley Foie Gras\u003c/strong> appetizer blew us away. It was the best dish of our entire vacation. Who would've thought that this combo could work so well? The richness of the foie melded seamlessly with the luxurious ahi tuna, resulting in the most heavenly bite. The dish was served with a Dalmatia fig compote, sautéed Kula spinach, and finished in a sweet Maui onion duck demi-glace. Perfection.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Also of note was the signature \u003cstrong>Triple Berry Pie\u003c/strong>. A tall stack of luscious raspberries, blueberries, and black currants, nestled in a light flaky crust sparkling with turbinado sugar. No room for dessert? A word to the wise, take this home and have it for breakfast! I can't wait to try the \u003ca href=\"http://www.lahainagrill.com/recipe.php?k=a\">recipe\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.lahainagrill.com/\">Lahaina Grill\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n127 Lahainaluna Road\u003cbr>\nLahaina, HI 96761\u003cbr>\n(808) 667-5117\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>4.\tKomoda Bakery ($)\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/Komoda-Bakery.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/Komoda-Bakery.jpg\" alt=\"Komoda Bakery, Maui\" title=\"Komoda Bakery, Maui\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-15976\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of the famous sights on Maui is the majestic \u003cstrong>Haleakala\u003c/strong> volcano summit. Sunrise at Haleakala is surreal. If you're staying in West Maui like we were, you need to hit the road by 3 am in order to make the trek up 10,000 feet up above sea level where it is actually \u003cem>cold\u003c/em>. After watching the sun come up, sitting on top of the clouds, being on top of the world, you feel pretty darn good. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And then, when you realize that \u003cstrong>T. Komoda Store & Bakery\u003c/strong> is conveniently located in Makawao, at the base of the mountain, you are truly convinced that all is good in the world. This place is a total gem. Walking in is like entering a time capsule. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>People rave about the \u003cstrong>Cream Puffs\u003c/strong>. The pastry shell is light and fluffy, and the cream filling is more like a vanilla custard rather than whipped cream or pastry cream. My favorite though, was the guava jam-filled \u003cstrong>Malasada Donut\u003c/strong>, sparkling with sugar. And the \u003cstrong>Stick Donut\u003c/strong>. Yeah, you heard me.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/t-komoda-store-and-bakery-makawao\">T. Komoda Store & Bakery \u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n3674 Baldwin Avenue\u003cbr>\nMakawao, HI 96768\u003cbr>\n(808) 572-7261\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Closed Sun & Wed, Open M-T-TH-F, 7 am - 5 pm\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\nBeware, the bakery is closed on Sundays and Wednesdays. We learned this the hard way…all was not lost however, because we subsequently discovered… \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>5.\tRodeo General Store ($)\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/Rodeo-General-Store.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/Rodeo-General-Store.jpg\" alt=\"Rodeo General Store, Maui\" title=\"Rodeo General Store, Maui\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-15982\">\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Located across the street from Komoda Bakery, is this hidden gem. The \u003cstrong>Rodeo General Store\u003c/strong> is stocked full of house-made goodies, both savory: \u003cstrong>Smoked Marlin Dip\u003c/strong> (so so good), \u003cstrong>Kalamata Olive Hummus\u003c/strong>, \u003cstrong>Carrot Cashew Pate\u003c/strong>; and sweet: \u003cstrong>Lilikoi Tapioca\u003c/strong>, \u003cstrong>Raw Chia Vanilla \"Custed\"\u003c/strong>, \u003cstrong>Gogi Brown Rice Pudding\u003c/strong>, \u003cstrong>Maclava\u003c/strong> (macadamia nuts + baklava = swoon). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The flavor combos are creative, fresh, and slant on the hippie-healthy side. Grab some pita chips and some of their awesome dips, and you've got yourself a beach picnic. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/rodeo-general-store-makawao\">Rodeo General Store \u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n3661 Baldwin Ave\u003cbr>\nMakawao, HI 96768\u003cbr>\n(808) 572-1868\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>6.\tMerriman's Kapalua ($$$$)\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/Merrimans-quad.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/Merrimans-quad.jpg\" alt=\"Merriman's, Maui\" title=\"Merriman's, Maui\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-15980\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Speaking of beaches, nothing beats the view at \u003ca href=\"http://www.merrimanshawaii.com/\">Merriman's\u003c/a>, and they know it. This classy waterfront establishment is beautifully designed to bring the outside in. Essentially, it is a restaurant without walls, with floor to ceiling windows on all sides. On pleasant evenings, enjoy a postcard perfect sunset outside on the patio, with one of the best pina coladas on the island. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Chef Peter Merriman\u003c/strong> has been at the forefront of Hawaii's local sustainability movement for over 20 years now, and his menu features an impressive array of Hawaii regional cuisine sourced from local farmers, producers, and ranchers. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Our favorite dish was the \u003cstrong>Pan Roasted Diver Sea Scallops\u003c/strong> with applewood-smoked bacon, creamed Kula corn, Anuhea asparagus, and tarragon. Actually the \u003cstrong>Creamed Kula Corn\u003c/strong> by itself was the show-stopper of the evening. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Did you know that Maui produces some of the sweetest corn on Earth? This is actually a neat fact…there are a number of widely varying microclimates on the island, ranging from the hot and sunny coasts, to humid jungle, to the cool, dry climates of what is called \"upcountry.\" This range of climates allows for a wide range of produce to be farmed. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The region called Kula, full of soil blessed with nutrient-rich volcanic ash, is prime land for growing corn. Hence, acres upon acres of corn fields, far as the eye can see, stretching along the highway -- completely unexpected and disorienting. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Merriman's sources a lot of Kula corn. Mmmm…the stuff is so good, you want to bathe in it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.merrimanshawaii.com/\">Merriman's Kapalua\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n1 Bay Club Place\u003cbr>\nLahaina, HI 96761\u003cbr>\n(808) 669-6400\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>7.\tThe Banyan Tree ($$$$)\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/banyan-tree.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/banyan-tree.jpg\" alt=\"The Banyan Tree, Maui\" title=\"The Banyan Tree, Maui\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-15973\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>From the interesting conversations I had with local chefs and food fiends, it seems as if Hawaii has just started to ride the wave of the local/sustainable movement that we know so well here in San Francisco. Because it’s just starting to gain popularity, it still has a shiny, new, feel to it all. It was great to see people so jazzed about hydroponics, and excited about planting home gardens -- even \"resort\" gardens, like the ones \u003cstrong>Chef Ryan Urig\u003c/strong>, of \u003ca href=\"http://www.ritzcarlton.com/en/Properties/KapaluaMaui/Dining/TheBanyanTree/Default.htm\">The Banyan Tree\u003c/a>, built right on the grounds of The Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Banyan Tree is located inside the resort grounds, and just a stone-throw away from its front steps, next to the stunning hotel pool, is a legitimate herb garden, flourishing with things like grapefruit mint and Thai basil, free for guests to walk through and admire (and pluck a garnish for their cocktail if they so wished). Further behind the scenes is an impressive hydroponic farming system in the works, as well as a large composting operation. Cool stuff. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The chefs not only farm, they cook pretty darn well too. Favorite tastes included an appetizer duo of \u003cstrong>Abalone\u003c/strong>, served with crispy Brussels sprouts, lamb bacon and dates, and \u003cstrong>Watermelon Salad\u003c/strong>, with fresh horseradish and a jelly-like orb filled with watermelon juice that bursts in your mouth when you eat it. Also loved the \u003cstrong>Crispy Moi\u003c/strong> (a traditional Hawaiian fish that used to be served to royalty) with English Pea Risotto, and the \u003cstrong>Grilled Lamb Loin\u003c/strong> with Lentil Dahl and Raita was perfectly cooked and seasoned well.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.ritzcarlton.com/en/Properties/KapaluaMaui/Dining/TheBanyanTree/Default.htm\">The Banyan Tree\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n1 Ritz-Carlton Dr\u003cbr>\nThe Ritz-Carlton Hotel\u003cbr>\nKapalua, HI 96767\u003cbr>\n(808) 669-6200\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Open Tue-Sat 5:30 pm - 9:30 pm\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>8.\tSpam Masubi\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/Spam-Masubi.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/Spam-Masubi.jpg\" alt=\"Spam Masubi\" title=\"Spam Masubi\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-15983\">\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A Maui Top Eats list wouldn't be complete without mention of this classic Hawaiian snack. \u003cstrong>Spam Masubi\u003c/strong> is fried spam over sushi rice, wrapped with seaweed into a neat little, hand-held burst of carb and fatty meat energy. It's what you see moms feeding their kiddies at the airport to tide them over (a bit more substantial than Cheerios, no?); it's what you see construction workers eating in the morning for an on-the-go breakfast; it's what you see my fiancé grabbing from the shelves of delis and general stores every chance he gets because he knows I won't let him eat Spam so freely back on mainland.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>9.\tOld Lahaina Luau ($$$$)\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/luau.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/luau.jpg\" alt=\"Old Lahaina Luau\" title=\"Old Lahaina Luau\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-15978\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When in Rome, right? I couldn't leave Hawaii without experiencing a real luau! Every single travel guide, concierge, and local pointed to one place as the best: \u003cstrong>The Old Lahaina Luau\u003c/strong>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tickets are pricey, and sure, you feel like every tourist on the island is there with you, but man oh man, is it worth it. What a party. Unlimited tropical cocktails, an endless buffet of traditional \u003ca href=\"http://www.oldlahainaluau.com/luaumenu.html\">luau fare\u003c/a> like Polynesian Baked Mahi Mahi, Pulehu Steak, Lomi Lomi Salmon, Ahi Poke, Poi Rolls made with mashed purple taro, and guava butter, and…drumroll please…\u003cstrong>Kalua Pua'a\u003c/strong>, pork roasted underground in a traditional \u003cem>imu\u003c/em>. Pork. So good. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The staff are total pros as well, and even with nightly sold-out shows for 500 guests, the evening runs smooth as cocoa butter. You get the royal Hawaiian treatment, watch the sun set dreamily into the ocean, sit under the stars, and enjoy a first class show of beautiful dancers, shakin' what their momma gave 'em. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If there is one touristy thing you do, make this it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.oldlahainaluau.com/\">Old Lahaina Luau\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n1251 Front St\u003cbr>\nLahaina, HI 96761\u003cbr>\n(808) 667-1998\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>10. Pineapple Express ($$)\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/Pineapple.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/Pineapple.jpg\" alt=\"Maui Gold Pineapple\" title=\"Maui Gold Pineapple\" width=\"333\" height=\"500\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-15981\">\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Juicy, nectar-sweet, \u003ca href=\"http://www.mauipineapple.com/\">Maui Gold Pineapples\u003c/a>. If your entire trip to Maui was embodied into one single flavor, this would be it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wandering around Lahaina on our last day, we stumbled upon \u003ca href=\"http://takehomemaui.com/\">Take Home Maui, Inc.\u003c/a>, a shipping company that specializes in sending gourmet goods like \u003cstrong>Maui Gold pineapples\u003c/strong>, \u003cstrong>sweet Maui onions\u003c/strong>, even \u003cstrong>coconut-grams\u003c/strong> (beats a postcard any day), back to mainland.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nothing like a case of the sweetest pineapples ever to make your coworkers/family/friends not hate you for leaving them behind while you frolicked in the tropical sun all day. While you're at it, get an extra case. You'll need it to ease yourself through the imminent island withdrawal you'll be experiencing when you leave this paradise.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://takehomemaui.com/\">Take Home Maui, Inc. \u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n121 Dickenson St.\u003cbr>\nLahaina, HI 96761\u003cbr>\n808-661-8067\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Well that wraps it up! \u003cem>A hui hou\u003c/em>, Maui! Until we meet again...\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/Intro.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/Intro.jpg\" alt=\"Maui\" title=\"Maui\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15975\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are many reasons I love living in the Bay Area. The climate, the food, the people…the proximity to Hawaii. Which brings me to the many reasons I've fallen so hard for \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/07/14/alii-kula-lavender-farm-maui/\">Maui\u003c/a>. The climate, the food, the people… \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I had the good fortune to attend the \u003ca href=\"http://lickmyspoon.com/foodmusings/maui-edition-2010-kapalua-wine-and-food-festival/\">Kapalua Wine and Food Festival\u003c/a> not too long ago, and while I was in town, decided to treat myself to a few extra days of blue skies, ocean breeze, and of course, good eats. The food we discovered on Maui was an interesting mix of hearty no-frills home-cooking, and high-end fine dining. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Without further ado, here's my guide to eating your way through paradise: \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>1.\tDa Kitchen ($$)\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/Maui_Da-Kitchen-1370.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/Maui_Da-Kitchen-1370.jpg\" alt=\"short ribs at Da Kitchen, Maui\" title=\"short ribs at Da Kitchen, Maui\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-15994\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This bustling local hot spot is hardly a well-kept secret. Locals and tourists alike head to \u003cstrong>Da Kitchen\u003c/strong> for heaping portions of solid home-cooking, Hawaiian style. Conveniently located near the Kahului airport (OGG), it is an awesome way to kick off (and cap off) your Maui eatfest -- yes, it was so good, it was not only my first meal on the island, I made sure it was my last as well. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I boarded the plane back to SFO with an order of the \u003cstrong>Kalbi Ribs\u003c/strong> to go, and boy, were the folks in the next row jealous. They kept making eyes at my dinner: five big slabs of tender charbroiled short ribs, marinated in a house teriyaki sauce.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Da Kitchen is notorious for their \"big boy\"-sized servings. The plate lunches are their specialty, all served with two scoops of steamed rice and a side of potato mac salad or green salad. If delicious, savory short ribs aren’t your style, try \u003cstrong>Da \"Lau Lau\" Plate\u003c/strong> (two steamed pieces of cured fatty pork wrapped in taro leaves with a side of lomi salmon), \u003cstrong>Loco Moco\u003c/strong> (homemade burger patty topped with two eggs, onions, mushrooms and gravy), or \u003cstrong>Chicken Katsu\u003c/strong> (chicken breaded in panko batter, served with a Japanese BBQ sauce). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.da-kitchen.com/\">Da Kitchen\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n425 Koloa St, Ste 104\u003cbr>\nKahului, HI 96732\u003cbr>\n(808) 871-7782\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Open Mon-Fri 11 am – 8 pm; Sat 11 am – 4 pm (call ahead of time, they sometimes close later if it's busy)\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>2.\tUlulani's Shave Ice ($)\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/IMG_6724.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/IMG_6724.jpg\" alt=\"Ululani's shave ice, Maui\" title=\"Ululani's shave ice, Maui\" width=\"333\" height=\"500\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-15974\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You can't go to Hawaii without getting a taste of \u003cstrong>Shave Ice\u003c/strong>. \u003ca href=\"http://ululanisshaveice.com/\">Ululani's Hawaiian Shave Ice\u003c/a> puts snow cones to shame. Shoot, it even puts most other shave ice places to shame. You may be asking yourself, what's the big deal? It's just ice and syrup, right? Wrong. It is powdery soft, creamy, icy magic, flavored with joy. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There's a reason this spot boasts a perfect 5 star score with 130 reviews and counting on \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/ululanis-hawaiian-shave-ice-lahaina\">Yelp\u003c/a>. The stuff is amazing. The ice is shaved so fine that it actually produces a \u003cem>creamy\u003c/em> texture. 95% of Ululani's flavors are made with premium purees, concentrates and/or extracts. These homemade syrups are what set Ululani's shave ice apart from all the rest. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I tried their most popular flavor combo, the \u003cstrong>Haleakala\u003c/strong>, and fell in love. ½ coconut and ½ leche (a milky flavor with soft hints of cinnamon and nutmeg), topped with their signature \"snow cap\" (a sweet condensed milk and cream mixture). To. Die. For. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Read more about \u003cstrong>David and Ululani Yamashiro's\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://www.mauimagazine.net/Maui-Magazine/July-August-2010/Five-Star-Shave-Ice/\">sweet story\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ululanisshaveice.com/\">Ululani's Hawaiian Shave Ice\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n819 Front St\u003cbr>\nLahaina, HI 96761\u003cbr>\n(360) 609-5678\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Open every day, 11 am – 10 pm\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>3. Lahaina Grill ($$$$)\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/Lahaina-Grill-quad.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/Lahaina-Grill-quad.jpg\" alt=\"Lahaina Grill, Maui\" title=\"Lahaina Grill, Maui\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-15977\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.lahainagrill.com/\">Lahaina Grill\u003c/a> was our favorite splurge meal of the trip. The setting was comfortable and unassuming, the service was on point and friendly, and the food was phenomenal. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Our picks: The \u003cstrong>Seared Ahi and Hudson Valley Foie Gras\u003c/strong> appetizer blew us away. It was the best dish of our entire vacation. Who would've thought that this combo could work so well? The richness of the foie melded seamlessly with the luxurious ahi tuna, resulting in the most heavenly bite. The dish was served with a Dalmatia fig compote, sautéed Kula spinach, and finished in a sweet Maui onion duck demi-glace. Perfection.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Also of note was the signature \u003cstrong>Triple Berry Pie\u003c/strong>. A tall stack of luscious raspberries, blueberries, and black currants, nestled in a light flaky crust sparkling with turbinado sugar. No room for dessert? A word to the wise, take this home and have it for breakfast! I can't wait to try the \u003ca href=\"http://www.lahainagrill.com/recipe.php?k=a\">recipe\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.lahainagrill.com/\">Lahaina Grill\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n127 Lahainaluna Road\u003cbr>\nLahaina, HI 96761\u003cbr>\n(808) 667-5117\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>4.\tKomoda Bakery ($)\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/Komoda-Bakery.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/Komoda-Bakery.jpg\" alt=\"Komoda Bakery, Maui\" title=\"Komoda Bakery, Maui\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-15976\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of the famous sights on Maui is the majestic \u003cstrong>Haleakala\u003c/strong> volcano summit. Sunrise at Haleakala is surreal. If you're staying in West Maui like we were, you need to hit the road by 3 am in order to make the trek up 10,000 feet up above sea level where it is actually \u003cem>cold\u003c/em>. After watching the sun come up, sitting on top of the clouds, being on top of the world, you feel pretty darn good. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And then, when you realize that \u003cstrong>T. Komoda Store & Bakery\u003c/strong> is conveniently located in Makawao, at the base of the mountain, you are truly convinced that all is good in the world. This place is a total gem. Walking in is like entering a time capsule. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>People rave about the \u003cstrong>Cream Puffs\u003c/strong>. The pastry shell is light and fluffy, and the cream filling is more like a vanilla custard rather than whipped cream or pastry cream. My favorite though, was the guava jam-filled \u003cstrong>Malasada Donut\u003c/strong>, sparkling with sugar. And the \u003cstrong>Stick Donut\u003c/strong>. Yeah, you heard me.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/t-komoda-store-and-bakery-makawao\">T. Komoda Store & Bakery \u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n3674 Baldwin Avenue\u003cbr>\nMakawao, HI 96768\u003cbr>\n(808) 572-7261\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Closed Sun & Wed, Open M-T-TH-F, 7 am - 5 pm\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\nBeware, the bakery is closed on Sundays and Wednesdays. We learned this the hard way…all was not lost however, because we subsequently discovered… \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>5.\tRodeo General Store ($)\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/Rodeo-General-Store.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/Rodeo-General-Store.jpg\" alt=\"Rodeo General Store, Maui\" title=\"Rodeo General Store, Maui\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-15982\">\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Located across the street from Komoda Bakery, is this hidden gem. The \u003cstrong>Rodeo General Store\u003c/strong> is stocked full of house-made goodies, both savory: \u003cstrong>Smoked Marlin Dip\u003c/strong> (so so good), \u003cstrong>Kalamata Olive Hummus\u003c/strong>, \u003cstrong>Carrot Cashew Pate\u003c/strong>; and sweet: \u003cstrong>Lilikoi Tapioca\u003c/strong>, \u003cstrong>Raw Chia Vanilla \"Custed\"\u003c/strong>, \u003cstrong>Gogi Brown Rice Pudding\u003c/strong>, \u003cstrong>Maclava\u003c/strong> (macadamia nuts + baklava = swoon). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The flavor combos are creative, fresh, and slant on the hippie-healthy side. Grab some pita chips and some of their awesome dips, and you've got yourself a beach picnic. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/rodeo-general-store-makawao\">Rodeo General Store \u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n3661 Baldwin Ave\u003cbr>\nMakawao, HI 96768\u003cbr>\n(808) 572-1868\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>6.\tMerriman's Kapalua ($$$$)\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/Merrimans-quad.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/Merrimans-quad.jpg\" alt=\"Merriman's, Maui\" title=\"Merriman's, Maui\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-15980\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Speaking of beaches, nothing beats the view at \u003ca href=\"http://www.merrimanshawaii.com/\">Merriman's\u003c/a>, and they know it. This classy waterfront establishment is beautifully designed to bring the outside in. Essentially, it is a restaurant without walls, with floor to ceiling windows on all sides. On pleasant evenings, enjoy a postcard perfect sunset outside on the patio, with one of the best pina coladas on the island. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Chef Peter Merriman\u003c/strong> has been at the forefront of Hawaii's local sustainability movement for over 20 years now, and his menu features an impressive array of Hawaii regional cuisine sourced from local farmers, producers, and ranchers. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Our favorite dish was the \u003cstrong>Pan Roasted Diver Sea Scallops\u003c/strong> with applewood-smoked bacon, creamed Kula corn, Anuhea asparagus, and tarragon. Actually the \u003cstrong>Creamed Kula Corn\u003c/strong> by itself was the show-stopper of the evening. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Did you know that Maui produces some of the sweetest corn on Earth? This is actually a neat fact…there are a number of widely varying microclimates on the island, ranging from the hot and sunny coasts, to humid jungle, to the cool, dry climates of what is called \"upcountry.\" This range of climates allows for a wide range of produce to be farmed. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The region called Kula, full of soil blessed with nutrient-rich volcanic ash, is prime land for growing corn. Hence, acres upon acres of corn fields, far as the eye can see, stretching along the highway -- completely unexpected and disorienting. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Merriman's sources a lot of Kula corn. Mmmm…the stuff is so good, you want to bathe in it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.merrimanshawaii.com/\">Merriman's Kapalua\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n1 Bay Club Place\u003cbr>\nLahaina, HI 96761\u003cbr>\n(808) 669-6400\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>7.\tThe Banyan Tree ($$$$)\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/banyan-tree.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/banyan-tree.jpg\" alt=\"The Banyan Tree, Maui\" title=\"The Banyan Tree, Maui\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-15973\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>From the interesting conversations I had with local chefs and food fiends, it seems as if Hawaii has just started to ride the wave of the local/sustainable movement that we know so well here in San Francisco. Because it’s just starting to gain popularity, it still has a shiny, new, feel to it all. It was great to see people so jazzed about hydroponics, and excited about planting home gardens -- even \"resort\" gardens, like the ones \u003cstrong>Chef Ryan Urig\u003c/strong>, of \u003ca href=\"http://www.ritzcarlton.com/en/Properties/KapaluaMaui/Dining/TheBanyanTree/Default.htm\">The Banyan Tree\u003c/a>, built right on the grounds of The Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Banyan Tree is located inside the resort grounds, and just a stone-throw away from its front steps, next to the stunning hotel pool, is a legitimate herb garden, flourishing with things like grapefruit mint and Thai basil, free for guests to walk through and admire (and pluck a garnish for their cocktail if they so wished). Further behind the scenes is an impressive hydroponic farming system in the works, as well as a large composting operation. Cool stuff. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The chefs not only farm, they cook pretty darn well too. Favorite tastes included an appetizer duo of \u003cstrong>Abalone\u003c/strong>, served with crispy Brussels sprouts, lamb bacon and dates, and \u003cstrong>Watermelon Salad\u003c/strong>, with fresh horseradish and a jelly-like orb filled with watermelon juice that bursts in your mouth when you eat it. Also loved the \u003cstrong>Crispy Moi\u003c/strong> (a traditional Hawaiian fish that used to be served to royalty) with English Pea Risotto, and the \u003cstrong>Grilled Lamb Loin\u003c/strong> with Lentil Dahl and Raita was perfectly cooked and seasoned well.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.ritzcarlton.com/en/Properties/KapaluaMaui/Dining/TheBanyanTree/Default.htm\">The Banyan Tree\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n1 Ritz-Carlton Dr\u003cbr>\nThe Ritz-Carlton Hotel\u003cbr>\nKapalua, HI 96767\u003cbr>\n(808) 669-6200\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Open Tue-Sat 5:30 pm - 9:30 pm\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>8.\tSpam Masubi\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/Spam-Masubi.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/Spam-Masubi.jpg\" alt=\"Spam Masubi\" title=\"Spam Masubi\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-15983\">\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A Maui Top Eats list wouldn't be complete without mention of this classic Hawaiian snack. \u003cstrong>Spam Masubi\u003c/strong> is fried spam over sushi rice, wrapped with seaweed into a neat little, hand-held burst of carb and fatty meat energy. It's what you see moms feeding their kiddies at the airport to tide them over (a bit more substantial than Cheerios, no?); it's what you see construction workers eating in the morning for an on-the-go breakfast; it's what you see my fiancé grabbing from the shelves of delis and general stores every chance he gets because he knows I won't let him eat Spam so freely back on mainland.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>9.\tOld Lahaina Luau ($$$$)\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/luau.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/luau.jpg\" alt=\"Old Lahaina Luau\" title=\"Old Lahaina Luau\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-15978\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When in Rome, right? I couldn't leave Hawaii without experiencing a real luau! Every single travel guide, concierge, and local pointed to one place as the best: \u003cstrong>The Old Lahaina Luau\u003c/strong>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tickets are pricey, and sure, you feel like every tourist on the island is there with you, but man oh man, is it worth it. What a party. Unlimited tropical cocktails, an endless buffet of traditional \u003ca href=\"http://www.oldlahainaluau.com/luaumenu.html\">luau fare\u003c/a> like Polynesian Baked Mahi Mahi, Pulehu Steak, Lomi Lomi Salmon, Ahi Poke, Poi Rolls made with mashed purple taro, and guava butter, and…drumroll please…\u003cstrong>Kalua Pua'a\u003c/strong>, pork roasted underground in a traditional \u003cem>imu\u003c/em>. Pork. So good. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The staff are total pros as well, and even with nightly sold-out shows for 500 guests, the evening runs smooth as cocoa butter. You get the royal Hawaiian treatment, watch the sun set dreamily into the ocean, sit under the stars, and enjoy a first class show of beautiful dancers, shakin' what their momma gave 'em. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If there is one touristy thing you do, make this it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.oldlahainaluau.com/\">Old Lahaina Luau\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n1251 Front St\u003cbr>\nLahaina, HI 96761\u003cbr>\n(808) 667-1998\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>10. Pineapple Express ($$)\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/Pineapple.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/Pineapple.jpg\" alt=\"Maui Gold Pineapple\" title=\"Maui Gold Pineapple\" width=\"333\" height=\"500\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-15981\">\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Juicy, nectar-sweet, \u003ca href=\"http://www.mauipineapple.com/\">Maui Gold Pineapples\u003c/a>. If your entire trip to Maui was embodied into one single flavor, this would be it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wandering around Lahaina on our last day, we stumbled upon \u003ca href=\"http://takehomemaui.com/\">Take Home Maui, Inc.\u003c/a>, a shipping company that specializes in sending gourmet goods like \u003cstrong>Maui Gold pineapples\u003c/strong>, \u003cstrong>sweet Maui onions\u003c/strong>, even \u003cstrong>coconut-grams\u003c/strong> (beats a postcard any day), back to mainland.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nothing like a case of the sweetest pineapples ever to make your coworkers/family/friends not hate you for leaving them behind while you frolicked in the tropical sun all day. While you're at it, get an extra case. You'll need it to ease yourself through the imminent island withdrawal you'll be experiencing when you leave this paradise.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://takehomemaui.com/\">Take Home Maui, Inc. \u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n121 Dickenson St.\u003cbr>\nLahaina, HI 96761\u003cbr>\n808-661-8067\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Well that wraps it up! \u003cem>A hui hou\u003c/em>, Maui! Until we meet again...\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "SF Chefs: The Future of Food Media, Hog in the Fog, Delfina vs. Spruce ",
"title": "SF Chefs: The Future of Food Media, Hog in the Fog, Delfina vs. Spruce ",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>There's nothing like the \"Bauer Bump.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Blogs, Tweets, Yelp write-ups, email newsletters, check-ins on Foursquare-- the new social-media options may be the shiniest, coolest toys on the block right now, as evidenced by the full house attending \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfchefsfoodwine.com/Seminars.aspx#Future\">The Future of Food Media\u003c/a>, one of several industry seminars presented as part of \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfchefsfoodwine.com/default.aspx\">SF Chefs 2010\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> But after a 90 minute discussion between Oracle corporate chef \u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/Rdlewisjr\">Robbie Lewis\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/\">Yelp\u003c/a> executive Ruggy Joesten, \u003ca href=\"http://marlowesf.com/\">Marlowe\u003c/a> owner Anna Weinberg, PR specialist \u003ca href=\"http://www.afandco.com/about/andrew.html\">Andrew Freeman\u003c/a>, and moderator \u003ca href=\"http://insidescoopsf.sfgate.com/paololucchesi/\">Paolo Lucchesi\u003c/a> of San Francisco Chronicle's \u003cem>Inside Scoop SF\u003c/em>, it came down to this: A great review from \u003ca href=\"http://insidescoopsf.sfgate.com/michaelbauer/\">Michael Bauer\u003c/a>, the Chronicle's longtime head restaurant critic, is \u003cem>still\u003c/em> the golden ticket that every restaurant dreams of, the one sure-fire way to guarantee a full house for months to come.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the longtime print writers, editors, and public-relations folks in the audience (as well as, presumably, Bauer himself, who was seated unobtrusively near the back of the room), it was satisfying to hear Anna Weinberg, owner of Marlowe, insist that Bauer's dubbing their lamb-laced bacon cheeseburger \u003ca href=\"http://insidescoopsf.sfgate.com/michaelbauer/2010/04/07/the-hunt-is-on-for-the-best-hamburger-in-san-francisco/\">the best in the city\u003c/a> had an instant, and huge, impact on her business. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(And that burger was no accident; Weinberg and her chef Jennifer Puccio did loads of food trend research before opening, looking for what local diners really get passionate about. Which turned out to be, unsurprisingly, pizza and burgers.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For all that Yelp's Joesten had to say about his company's proprietary, scam-searching algorithm for rating and ranking user reviews, a smart professional critic whose palate and judgment you trust is still a more reliable guide than a blogger hoping for perks and freebies, or an anonymous poster with any number of axes to grind. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And there's the other bonus: good writing! Among all the long-winded digressions about data mining and statistical analytics (which got many of the industry types and interested foodies fidgeting in their seats and yes, probably checking their tweets), no one mentioned the enjoyment value of professional criticism until the closing minutes, when audience member Jan Newberry, food editor of \u003ca href=\"http://www.sanfranmag.com\">San Francisco\u003c/a> magazine, noted that no one goes to Yelp for the prose, whereas good criticism is also good writing--entertaining, informative, able to put a restaurant, its chef, and its scene into a social, gastronomic, and cultural context.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(As a former restaurant critic for both the Bay Guardian and San Francisco magazine, I was often asked how I \"got paid to eat.\" My response? I didn't get paid to eat, I got paid to write. Eating was just what I happened to write about.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Still, there was lots to say about how a restaurant, or a chef, can build a community and a brand through judicious use of Twitter, blogs, Yelp, and more.\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp> As Weinberg noted, \"It's a free 24 hour a day focus group. Looking on places like Yelp, you can start to see trends. If 10 posts in a week tell you the soup isn't so great or the bartender was rude, you know that maybe it's time to get a better soup, or a better bartender.\" \u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>Said Lewis, \"You can use to engage your customers, start a direct dialogue with guests, ask for feedback rather than it getting blasted all over the internet. It can be great for customer touch-back, especially when they've given you positive comments. Thanking someone for a positive post builds loyalty instantly.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>According to Lewis, customers love to get a glimpse \"behind the velvet rope,\" and hearing that the sommelier is really jazzed about a new Cab or that the pastry chef is doing something fantastic with the season's first pluots can galvanize these would-be insiders into showing up that very night. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But how much transparency is too much?\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp> Said Lucchesi, to much laughter from the audience, \"You know, Eric Ripert of Le Bernardin in NYC just started tweeting. Now, he's James Bond suave, with an olive-oil French accent, probably one of the world's most respected chefs. But his tweets read like a 12-year-old girl is writing them!\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>The Mayor was a no-show to the Grand Tent's grand ribbon-cutting shortly after the panel concluded, but that didn't stop the crowd from oohing over the dramatic sabering of a magnum of Domaine Chandon, or the star-studded posse of chefs and restauranteurs clustered around the thick orange ribbon. And with a scissor and a snip, the crowd surged forward to check out Friday's main event, \"\u003ca href=\"http://www.sfchefsfoodwine.com/OpeningParty.aspx\">Hog in the Fog\u003c/a>,\" a food-and-cocktail walk-around under a big white tent in Union Square.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It helped to like pork in all its myriad forms, since besides the figs, grapes, and Cowgirl Creamery cheeses offered at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org\"> CUESA\u003c/a> table, there was almost nothing for vegetarians, save a lot of tasty cocktails. Table after table offered pork cured, pork braised, pork shredded, or pork confit'd. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/hoofhead500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/hoofhead500.jpg\" alt=\"head and hoof\" title=\"head and hoof\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-16242\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>No pork crudo was in evidence, but there were plenty of jiggly slices of \"head and hoof\" terrine topped with pickled mustard seeds. (Made by Chris Cosentino of Incanto, as if you had to ask). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/PoggioPig500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/PoggioPig500.jpg\" alt=\"Poggio Pig\" title=\"Poggio Pig\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-16246\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Poggio's Peter McNee laid out a lavish spread of salume, all made from a single pig, including sliced \"pigstrami,\" mortadella, chocolate-brown \"bloodella,\" and more, plus poached cotechino sausage over lentils (a classic Bolognese pairing) and fermented summer sausage on sauerkraut. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Homer Simpson would have been in heaven (\"Porkchops and bacon, my two favorite animals!\") but after the sixth or seventh porky bite, the octopus tentacles made by A16's Liza Shaw starting looking mighty good.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/NicoletteManescalchi-LizaShaw-RossWunderlich.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/NicoletteManescalchi-LizaShaw-RossWunderlich.jpg\" alt=\"Nicolette Manescalchi and Liza Shaw and Ross Wunderlich\" title=\"Nicolette Manescalchi and Liza Shaw and Ross Wunderlich\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-16244\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Nicolette Manescalchi, Liza Shaw and Ross Wunderlich\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>Why octopus? \"Well, I love squid, octopus, all that stuff.\" said Shaw. Sometimes you have to choose between cooking for the people or cooking for chefs. Today, I decided to cook for the chefs. The people will follow!\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>And her octopus tentacles on a stick, with slippery onion and a vivid, herby green-tomato salsa verde, were double-plus good. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/octopus500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/octopus500.jpg\" alt=\"octopus\" title=\"octopus\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-16245\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You could wash down all that pork with many different cocktails, as long as your taste ran to tart, dry, and spicy. San Francisco bartenders continue to love their bitters, from the aromatic bitters (made from cinnamon, allspice, cardamom, and cassia) in the Rye Buck (Wild Turkey, house-made ginger syrup, lime) from Rye to the orange bitters in the cayenne sugar-rimmed Smoking Gun (Combier orange liqueur, Hennessey Black cognac, smoked peach puree) from Otis. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Everything seemed to have lemon or lime, ginger or cinnamon, plus a dash of herbal/anise flavor, in the form of Chartreuse, Herbsaint, or absinthe. Acknowledging that bartenders have their groupies and their name-brand just like chefs, each bar table had a board announcing the bartender's name and his (yes, they were all male) liquor of choice above the table. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The next morning, it was time for the \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfchefsfoodwine.com/SaturdayMorning.aspx#Family\">Anolon Chef Challenge: Restaurant Family Feud\u003c/a> (Delfina vs. Spruce), hosted by the Food Network's Aida Mollenkamp and judged by Jan Newberry, Steffan Terje (Perbacco, Barbacco) and Chronicle editor Miriam Morgan. The same conference room was now a Top Chef-style kitchen, with portable cooktop (but no running water), myriad bottles of wine and olive oil, and both a secret ingredient and a mystery basket of seasonal produce, courtesy of CUESA. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The secret ingredient? Local sustainable seafood, including Monterey Bay squid, sardines, and sole. The produce basket had just about everything you could find at Ferry Plaza: tomatoes of all sizes and colors, new potatoes, corn, herbs, figs, nectarines, melons, plums, onions, leeks, and more. The challenge? Three courses, one hour, two chefs on each team. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/mark-sullivan500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/mark-sullivan500.jpg\" alt=\"Mark Sullivan\" title=\"Mark Sullivan\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-16243\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Mark Sullivan from Spruce\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As you might imagine, chefs know how to focus, and halfway through their allotted time, you could hone a Wusthof knife off the single-minded attention beaming down from Delfina's Craig Stoll and Anthony Strong and Spruce's Mark Sullivan and Ben Cohn. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/craig-stoll500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/craig-stoll500.jpg\" alt=\"Craig Stoll\" title=\"Craig Stoll\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-16240\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Craig Stoll from Delfina\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They had little time or energy for chit-chat, which left Mollenkamp to carry the show, without TV's benefit of tomato-chopping close-ups or suspense-building commercial breaks. But the judges did chime in here and there, as when Mollenkamp asked Terje about his favorite summer produce. \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"Summer is hard for me,\" Terje admitted. \"It's like culinary ADD. Winter is more forgiving. Now, when something hits the market, you have to be ready for it right away.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/delfina-dishes500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/delfina-dishes500.jpg\" alt=\"Delfina dishes\" title=\"Delfina dishes\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-16241\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Delfina dishes\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The final menus? For Delfina, handmade tonarelli pasta with sardines, fennel, grapes, capers, and toasted breadcrumbs, followed by an impromptu toss of charred peppers, anchovies, and poached squid with pureed and diced tomatoes, lemon, capers and olives, and finally rolled sole poached with fish fumet, white wine, and herbs over tomatoes stewed in tomato juice and camomile tea.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/spruce-dishes500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/spruce-dishes500.jpg\" alt=\"Spruce dishes\" title=\"Spruce dishes\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-16238\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Spruce dishes\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Spruce, the meal began with a clear tomato-water gazpacho with diced tomatoes and mint, followed by seared sardine over a pork-and-tomato broth with peppers and smoked paprika, then poached sole and squid with leeks, potatoes, and a basil pistou.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The winner? By just the smallest of margins, Delfina. The audience cheered, the chefs toasted each other with well-deserved beers, and the audience, tantalized by unbearably delicious aromas (but no tastes) during the past two hours, headed to the Grand Tent for another chef-and-cocktail go-round. \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Pork, bitters, social media, local chefs going at it knife to knife: there was a lot going on during this week's \u003cem>SF Chefs 2010\u003c/em>. Here's a taste.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>There's nothing like the \"Bauer Bump.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Blogs, Tweets, Yelp write-ups, email newsletters, check-ins on Foursquare-- the new social-media options may be the shiniest, coolest toys on the block right now, as evidenced by the full house attending \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfchefsfoodwine.com/Seminars.aspx#Future\">The Future of Food Media\u003c/a>, one of several industry seminars presented as part of \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfchefsfoodwine.com/default.aspx\">SF Chefs 2010\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> But after a 90 minute discussion between Oracle corporate chef \u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/Rdlewisjr\">Robbie Lewis\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/\">Yelp\u003c/a> executive Ruggy Joesten, \u003ca href=\"http://marlowesf.com/\">Marlowe\u003c/a> owner Anna Weinberg, PR specialist \u003ca href=\"http://www.afandco.com/about/andrew.html\">Andrew Freeman\u003c/a>, and moderator \u003ca href=\"http://insidescoopsf.sfgate.com/paololucchesi/\">Paolo Lucchesi\u003c/a> of San Francisco Chronicle's \u003cem>Inside Scoop SF\u003c/em>, it came down to this: A great review from \u003ca href=\"http://insidescoopsf.sfgate.com/michaelbauer/\">Michael Bauer\u003c/a>, the Chronicle's longtime head restaurant critic, is \u003cem>still\u003c/em> the golden ticket that every restaurant dreams of, the one sure-fire way to guarantee a full house for months to come.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the longtime print writers, editors, and public-relations folks in the audience (as well as, presumably, Bauer himself, who was seated unobtrusively near the back of the room), it was satisfying to hear Anna Weinberg, owner of Marlowe, insist that Bauer's dubbing their lamb-laced bacon cheeseburger \u003ca href=\"http://insidescoopsf.sfgate.com/michaelbauer/2010/04/07/the-hunt-is-on-for-the-best-hamburger-in-san-francisco/\">the best in the city\u003c/a> had an instant, and huge, impact on her business. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(And that burger was no accident; Weinberg and her chef Jennifer Puccio did loads of food trend research before opening, looking for what local diners really get passionate about. Which turned out to be, unsurprisingly, pizza and burgers.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For all that Yelp's Joesten had to say about his company's proprietary, scam-searching algorithm for rating and ranking user reviews, a smart professional critic whose palate and judgment you trust is still a more reliable guide than a blogger hoping for perks and freebies, or an anonymous poster with any number of axes to grind. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And there's the other bonus: good writing! Among all the long-winded digressions about data mining and statistical analytics (which got many of the industry types and interested foodies fidgeting in their seats and yes, probably checking their tweets), no one mentioned the enjoyment value of professional criticism until the closing minutes, when audience member Jan Newberry, food editor of \u003ca href=\"http://www.sanfranmag.com\">San Francisco\u003c/a> magazine, noted that no one goes to Yelp for the prose, whereas good criticism is also good writing--entertaining, informative, able to put a restaurant, its chef, and its scene into a social, gastronomic, and cultural context.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(As a former restaurant critic for both the Bay Guardian and San Francisco magazine, I was often asked how I \"got paid to eat.\" My response? I didn't get paid to eat, I got paid to write. Eating was just what I happened to write about.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Still, there was lots to say about how a restaurant, or a chef, can build a community and a brand through judicious use of Twitter, blogs, Yelp, and more.\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp> As Weinberg noted, \"It's a free 24 hour a day focus group. Looking on places like Yelp, you can start to see trends. If 10 posts in a week tell you the soup isn't so great or the bartender was rude, you know that maybe it's time to get a better soup, or a better bartender.\" \u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>Said Lewis, \"You can use to engage your customers, start a direct dialogue with guests, ask for feedback rather than it getting blasted all over the internet. It can be great for customer touch-back, especially when they've given you positive comments. Thanking someone for a positive post builds loyalty instantly.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>According to Lewis, customers love to get a glimpse \"behind the velvet rope,\" and hearing that the sommelier is really jazzed about a new Cab or that the pastry chef is doing something fantastic with the season's first pluots can galvanize these would-be insiders into showing up that very night. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But how much transparency is too much?\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp> Said Lucchesi, to much laughter from the audience, \"You know, Eric Ripert of Le Bernardin in NYC just started tweeting. Now, he's James Bond suave, with an olive-oil French accent, probably one of the world's most respected chefs. But his tweets read like a 12-year-old girl is writing them!\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>The Mayor was a no-show to the Grand Tent's grand ribbon-cutting shortly after the panel concluded, but that didn't stop the crowd from oohing over the dramatic sabering of a magnum of Domaine Chandon, or the star-studded posse of chefs and restauranteurs clustered around the thick orange ribbon. And with a scissor and a snip, the crowd surged forward to check out Friday's main event, \"\u003ca href=\"http://www.sfchefsfoodwine.com/OpeningParty.aspx\">Hog in the Fog\u003c/a>,\" a food-and-cocktail walk-around under a big white tent in Union Square.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It helped to like pork in all its myriad forms, since besides the figs, grapes, and Cowgirl Creamery cheeses offered at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org\"> CUESA\u003c/a> table, there was almost nothing for vegetarians, save a lot of tasty cocktails. Table after table offered pork cured, pork braised, pork shredded, or pork confit'd. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/hoofhead500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/hoofhead500.jpg\" alt=\"head and hoof\" title=\"head and hoof\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-16242\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>No pork crudo was in evidence, but there were plenty of jiggly slices of \"head and hoof\" terrine topped with pickled mustard seeds. (Made by Chris Cosentino of Incanto, as if you had to ask). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/PoggioPig500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/PoggioPig500.jpg\" alt=\"Poggio Pig\" title=\"Poggio Pig\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-16246\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Poggio's Peter McNee laid out a lavish spread of salume, all made from a single pig, including sliced \"pigstrami,\" mortadella, chocolate-brown \"bloodella,\" and more, plus poached cotechino sausage over lentils (a classic Bolognese pairing) and fermented summer sausage on sauerkraut. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Homer Simpson would have been in heaven (\"Porkchops and bacon, my two favorite animals!\") but after the sixth or seventh porky bite, the octopus tentacles made by A16's Liza Shaw starting looking mighty good.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/NicoletteManescalchi-LizaShaw-RossWunderlich.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/NicoletteManescalchi-LizaShaw-RossWunderlich.jpg\" alt=\"Nicolette Manescalchi and Liza Shaw and Ross Wunderlich\" title=\"Nicolette Manescalchi and Liza Shaw and Ross Wunderlich\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-16244\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Nicolette Manescalchi, Liza Shaw and Ross Wunderlich\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>Why octopus? \"Well, I love squid, octopus, all that stuff.\" said Shaw. Sometimes you have to choose between cooking for the people or cooking for chefs. Today, I decided to cook for the chefs. The people will follow!\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>And her octopus tentacles on a stick, with slippery onion and a vivid, herby green-tomato salsa verde, were double-plus good. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/octopus500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/octopus500.jpg\" alt=\"octopus\" title=\"octopus\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-16245\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You could wash down all that pork with many different cocktails, as long as your taste ran to tart, dry, and spicy. San Francisco bartenders continue to love their bitters, from the aromatic bitters (made from cinnamon, allspice, cardamom, and cassia) in the Rye Buck (Wild Turkey, house-made ginger syrup, lime) from Rye to the orange bitters in the cayenne sugar-rimmed Smoking Gun (Combier orange liqueur, Hennessey Black cognac, smoked peach puree) from Otis. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Everything seemed to have lemon or lime, ginger or cinnamon, plus a dash of herbal/anise flavor, in the form of Chartreuse, Herbsaint, or absinthe. Acknowledging that bartenders have their groupies and their name-brand just like chefs, each bar table had a board announcing the bartender's name and his (yes, they were all male) liquor of choice above the table. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The next morning, it was time for the \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfchefsfoodwine.com/SaturdayMorning.aspx#Family\">Anolon Chef Challenge: Restaurant Family Feud\u003c/a> (Delfina vs. Spruce), hosted by the Food Network's Aida Mollenkamp and judged by Jan Newberry, Steffan Terje (Perbacco, Barbacco) and Chronicle editor Miriam Morgan. The same conference room was now a Top Chef-style kitchen, with portable cooktop (but no running water), myriad bottles of wine and olive oil, and both a secret ingredient and a mystery basket of seasonal produce, courtesy of CUESA. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The secret ingredient? Local sustainable seafood, including Monterey Bay squid, sardines, and sole. The produce basket had just about everything you could find at Ferry Plaza: tomatoes of all sizes and colors, new potatoes, corn, herbs, figs, nectarines, melons, plums, onions, leeks, and more. The challenge? Three courses, one hour, two chefs on each team. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/mark-sullivan500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/mark-sullivan500.jpg\" alt=\"Mark Sullivan\" title=\"Mark Sullivan\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-16243\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Mark Sullivan from Spruce\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As you might imagine, chefs know how to focus, and halfway through their allotted time, you could hone a Wusthof knife off the single-minded attention beaming down from Delfina's Craig Stoll and Anthony Strong and Spruce's Mark Sullivan and Ben Cohn. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/craig-stoll500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/craig-stoll500.jpg\" alt=\"Craig Stoll\" title=\"Craig Stoll\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-16240\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Craig Stoll from Delfina\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They had little time or energy for chit-chat, which left Mollenkamp to carry the show, without TV's benefit of tomato-chopping close-ups or suspense-building commercial breaks. But the judges did chime in here and there, as when Mollenkamp asked Terje about his favorite summer produce. \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"Summer is hard for me,\" Terje admitted. \"It's like culinary ADD. Winter is more forgiving. Now, when something hits the market, you have to be ready for it right away.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/delfina-dishes500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/delfina-dishes500.jpg\" alt=\"Delfina dishes\" title=\"Delfina dishes\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-16241\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Delfina dishes\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The final menus? For Delfina, handmade tonarelli pasta with sardines, fennel, grapes, capers, and toasted breadcrumbs, followed by an impromptu toss of charred peppers, anchovies, and poached squid with pureed and diced tomatoes, lemon, capers and olives, and finally rolled sole poached with fish fumet, white wine, and herbs over tomatoes stewed in tomato juice and camomile tea.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/spruce-dishes500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/spruce-dishes500.jpg\" alt=\"Spruce dishes\" title=\"Spruce dishes\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-16238\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Spruce dishes\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Spruce, the meal began with a clear tomato-water gazpacho with diced tomatoes and mint, followed by seared sardine over a pork-and-tomato broth with peppers and smoked paprika, then poached sole and squid with leeks, potatoes, and a basil pistou.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The winner? By just the smallest of margins, Delfina. The audience cheered, the chefs toasted each other with well-deserved beers, and the audience, tantalized by unbearably delicious aromas (but no tastes) during the past two hours, headed to the Grand Tent for another chef-and-cocktail go-round. \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/hospitality.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/hospitality.jpg\" alt=\"Hospitalitarianism panel at SF Chefs 2010\" title=\"Hospitalitarianism panel at SF Chefs 2010\" width=\"500\" height=\"188\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-16107\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfchefsfoodwine.com/Seminars.aspx#Love\">Hospitalitarianism panel\u003c/a>, the \u003ca href=\"http://tablehopper.com/\">tablehopper's\u003c/a> Marcia Gagliardi chatted with \u003ca href=\"http://www.perbaccosf.com/\">Umberto Gibin\u003c/a> (Perbacco, barbacco), \u003ca href=\"http://www.delfinasf.com/\">Annie Stoll\u003c/a> (Delfina), \u003ca href=\"http://www.acquerello.com/\">Giancarlo Paterlini\u003c/a> (Acquerello), \u003ca href=\"http://www.cyrusrestaurant.com/\">Nick Peyton\u003c/a> (Cyrus) and \u003ca href=\"http://www.pizzaantica.com/management-team.php\">Tim Stannard\u003c/a> (Pizzeria Antica, Spruce, Cafe Des Amis). Stannard fielded one of the toughest questions, when Gagliardi asked him how he knows who will make it, who won’t, and how do you let people know.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The takeaway messages included these tasty nuggets: \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/\">Yelp\u003c/a> can be painful for restaurateurs, but is a source of information. Tim Stannard reads a thick stack of Yelp reviews along with any and every blog post or other review each Monday. Social media geeks, these pros wish you would stop \"Twittering at the table,\" (Stannard) and taking pictures of food before eating it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some San Francisco spots have adopted their own service style, which may mean ditching the serving tray (looking at you, Delfina). Annie Stoll worked at a spot that required delivery of drinks via tray, and there was always a shortage of trays. She had guests seated by the bar, and was frustrated by not being able to get them their drinks via hand delivery. \"So no trays at Delfina,\" she said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Flour + Water did the right thing by \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.sfweekly.com/foodie/2010/08/even_steve_jobs_cant_get_a_tab.php\">having Steve Jobs wait in line\u003c/a> like everyone else. Also, the restaurateurs felt Jobs behaved well by playing along as the rest of the general public. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hospitality is in one’s blood, and some industry veterans felt drawn to restaurants at a young age. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Good people make a restaurant a success; and aggressively hiring the friends of stellar staff is one way to build a team. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Peterlini admitted he was born a maitre’d, and has kept the same team of nine or ten waiters for the last twenty years. “They know the drill,” Peterlini said, adding “I don’t like people to talk a lot (to guests). Use a lot of eye contact.” Stoll reflected on her first fancy meal at a restaurant at age 12; she used her first credit card to dine out as much as possible. As much as she loves the industry, she wouldn’t necessarily have her young daughter go into the same profession.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Stannard, who just opened Café Des Amis, has a high retention rate of staff and joked that he opens new restaurant locations as a way to keep folks engaged in a career with his group. “They’re going to grow somewhere, and I’d rather it be with us,” he said. The panel agreed that feeling welcomed by staff at a restaurant is always a goal, and that they want to walk out of a place that doesn’t do that. Technical service is one thing, a warm and eager environment can almost over ride a misplaced fork. \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "At the Hospitalitarianism panel, the tablehopper's Marcia Gagliardi chatted with Umberto Gibin (Perbacco, barbacco), Annie Stoll (Delfina), Giancarlo Paterlini (Acquerello), Nick Peyton (Cyrus) and Tim Stannard (Pizzeria Antica, Spruce, Cafe Des Amis). Stannard fielded one of the toughest questions, when Gagliardi asked him how he knows who will make it, who won't, and how do you let people know.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/hospitality.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/hospitality.jpg\" alt=\"Hospitalitarianism panel at SF Chefs 2010\" title=\"Hospitalitarianism panel at SF Chefs 2010\" width=\"500\" height=\"188\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-16107\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfchefsfoodwine.com/Seminars.aspx#Love\">Hospitalitarianism panel\u003c/a>, the \u003ca href=\"http://tablehopper.com/\">tablehopper's\u003c/a> Marcia Gagliardi chatted with \u003ca href=\"http://www.perbaccosf.com/\">Umberto Gibin\u003c/a> (Perbacco, barbacco), \u003ca href=\"http://www.delfinasf.com/\">Annie Stoll\u003c/a> (Delfina), \u003ca href=\"http://www.acquerello.com/\">Giancarlo Paterlini\u003c/a> (Acquerello), \u003ca href=\"http://www.cyrusrestaurant.com/\">Nick Peyton\u003c/a> (Cyrus) and \u003ca href=\"http://www.pizzaantica.com/management-team.php\">Tim Stannard\u003c/a> (Pizzeria Antica, Spruce, Cafe Des Amis). Stannard fielded one of the toughest questions, when Gagliardi asked him how he knows who will make it, who won’t, and how do you let people know.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The takeaway messages included these tasty nuggets: \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/\">Yelp\u003c/a> can be painful for restaurateurs, but is a source of information. Tim Stannard reads a thick stack of Yelp reviews along with any and every blog post or other review each Monday. Social media geeks, these pros wish you would stop \"Twittering at the table,\" (Stannard) and taking pictures of food before eating it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some San Francisco spots have adopted their own service style, which may mean ditching the serving tray (looking at you, Delfina). Annie Stoll worked at a spot that required delivery of drinks via tray, and there was always a shortage of trays. She had guests seated by the bar, and was frustrated by not being able to get them their drinks via hand delivery. \"So no trays at Delfina,\" she said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Flour + Water did the right thing by \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.sfweekly.com/foodie/2010/08/even_steve_jobs_cant_get_a_tab.php\">having Steve Jobs wait in line\u003c/a> like everyone else. Also, the restaurateurs felt Jobs behaved well by playing along as the rest of the general public. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hospitality is in one’s blood, and some industry veterans felt drawn to restaurants at a young age. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Good people make a restaurant a success; and aggressively hiring the friends of stellar staff is one way to build a team. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Peterlini admitted he was born a maitre’d, and has kept the same team of nine or ten waiters for the last twenty years. “They know the drill,” Peterlini said, adding “I don’t like people to talk a lot (to guests). Use a lot of eye contact.” Stoll reflected on her first fancy meal at a restaurant at age 12; she used her first credit card to dine out as much as possible. As much as she loves the industry, she wouldn’t necessarily have her young daughter go into the same profession.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Stannard, who just opened Café Des Amis, has a high retention rate of staff and joked that he opens new restaurant locations as a way to keep folks engaged in a career with his group. “They’re going to grow somewhere, and I’d rather it be with us,” he said. The panel agreed that feeling welcomed by staff at a restaurant is always a goal, and that they want to walk out of a place that doesn’t do that. Technical service is one thing, a warm and eager environment can almost over ride a misplaced fork. \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Death in the Afternoon",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/Death-in-the-Afternoon.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/Death-in-the-Afternoon.jpg\" alt=\"Death in the Afternoon\" title=\"Death in the Afternoon\" width=\"242\" height=\"350\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-16009\">\u003c/a>I recently met up with my friend Fatemeh for brunch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I had every intention of it being a long, lingering meal-- the type one anticipates when one is finally presented with a rare open day and the opportunity to spent a good chunk of it with someone one has known on the edges of his social circle, but has high hopes of getting to know better.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We ordered our food and a round of bacon-studded bloody marys, talking about mutual friends and sharing stories as we tried to figure out the best way to extract the fatty bits of pig from our drinks. The food was middling, but the conversation was excellent.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After we'd filled ourselves and I had given up fishing for identifiable pieces of food that had given up on life and drowned in my bowlful of gravy, we decided to order a second round of cocktails. Fatemeh considered her options and settled on a Ramos Fizz. I asked for a \u003cem>Death in The Afternoon\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The choice was simple, if indeed there was any choice involved at all. I was spending a Saturday afternoon with an interesting, beautiful woman. I was drinking cocktails. I wanted to appear louche, dissipated. Though I have never in my life felt especially Ernest Hemingway-ish, I felt that no other drink would do.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Given the name of the beverage I was consuming, it isn't surprising that our conversation turn to the subject of death and grieving.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As we shared about our families and our personal losses, I began to talk about my brother in a way that I had not allowed myself to do in a very long time: the illness, the denial of illness, the slow and painful wasting of his body in the last year and a half of his short life.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'd fought against thinking of him in that way for years. I had always thought it would serve him better if I could remember him as the handsome, shy, quirky young man I'd worshipped as a boy-- the Douglas who shared his fetish for over-the-top, Technicolor MGM musicals with me, not the Douglas who sat in his darkened room alone, listening to tape recordings of the same films, avoiding the light that seemed to hurt his eyes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But there, the middle of the afternoon, I was discussing the horrifying final act of his life. I wondered if our conversation could possibly take on a more upbeat tone after a talk of such loss- of fathers and brothers, of how different people approach coming to terms with that loss-- but it did. Fatemeh, it seems, is not only a serious and thoughtful woman, but possesses the wonderful gift of buoyancy that both I and my meal were currently lacking. She went down into the depths of my pain and somehow lifted me up out of it again.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As I walked home from our encounter, I thought about my brother and realized that it would have been his 49th birthday this weekend. I remembered all of those birthdays we'd shared and the sometimes frustrating sameness of them: the fudge-marbled birthday cake, my mother's Beef Stroganoff, his unwillingness to tear wrapping paper because it was so nice that he might want to use it himself.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And then I thought about my cocktail and how it lead me to my current state of mind. A \u003cem>Death in the Afternoon\u003c/em> is made of champagne--the drink most closely associated with celebration, and absinthe-- the drink of forgetfulness. I thought it an odd combination; a conflict of emotions in a glass. And that damned drink had the opposite effect on me-- it lead to the dredging up of painful memories that I certainly didn't feel like celebrating. It is a drink that caused me to become acutely aware of what was absent from my life.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I made that connection when I came home and looked at the bottle of absinthe a friend of mine bought me for my own birthday last year. In large letters, there it was, just staring right at me:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/Absent.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/Absent.jpg\" alt=\"Absent\" title=\"Absent\" width=\"350\" height=\"302\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-16010\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I put the bottle down and noticed the nearby model of Chitty Chitty Bang Bang Doug had once given me. I then went into the bathroom and stared at his India ink drawing of a plus-sized woman sitting on the beach, reading a book called \u003cem>Les Femmes de Picasso\u003c/em>, with a lobster approaching her with no small amount of menace and her feet buried neatly in the sand. He could never manage to draw feet.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was comforted by the thought that, though he might no longer be physically present, he continued to exist in the details of both my apartment and my life. I decided that alone was worth celebrating. I took the bottle of good champagne I keep for emergencies out of my refrigerator, poured myself a glass, and bypassed the absinthe altogether. I sifted through my dvd collection and opted to watch, for the 147th time, \u003cem>Singin' in the Rain\u003c/em>-- a film he (and countless film critics) deemed \"possibly the greatest musical ever made.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I crawled into bed with my glass of champagne, got lost in two hours of Arthur Freed music, and quietly celebrated a person who I have deemed \"possibly the greatest brother ever made.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He would have approved.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Death in the Afternoon\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The name for this drink is derived from the title of the same name by Ernest Hemingway. It is he who, coincidentally, is credited with the creation of this cocktail for a book of drinks created by writers for the 1935 book \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/So-Red-Nose-Breath-Afternoon/dp/B001LBQQDC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1281656630&sr=8-1\">So Red the Nose, or, Breath in the Afternoon\u003c/a>. The recipe and instructions are Hemingway's own.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Makes one cocktail\u003c/strong>. However, I would advise you to make two of them at a time: one for you, one for a friend because one should not drink-- nor experience death-- alone.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 ½ ounces absinthe\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 ounces Brut champagne\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pour 1 jigger of absinthe into a champagne glass. Add iced champagne until it attains the proper opalescent milkiness. Drink three to five of these slowly.\"\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "And then I thought about my cocktail and how it lead me to my current state of mind. A \u003cem>Death in the Afternoon\u003c/em> is made of champagne--the drink most closely associated with celebration, and absinthe-- the drink of forgetfulness. I thought it an odd combination; a conflict of emotions in a glass. And that damned drink had the opposite effect on me-- it lead to the dredging up of painful memories that I certainly didn't feel like celebrating. It is a drink that caused me to become acutely aware of what was absent from my life.\r\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/Death-in-the-Afternoon.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/Death-in-the-Afternoon.jpg\" alt=\"Death in the Afternoon\" title=\"Death in the Afternoon\" width=\"242\" height=\"350\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-16009\">\u003c/a>I recently met up with my friend Fatemeh for brunch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I had every intention of it being a long, lingering meal-- the type one anticipates when one is finally presented with a rare open day and the opportunity to spent a good chunk of it with someone one has known on the edges of his social circle, but has high hopes of getting to know better.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We ordered our food and a round of bacon-studded bloody marys, talking about mutual friends and sharing stories as we tried to figure out the best way to extract the fatty bits of pig from our drinks. The food was middling, but the conversation was excellent.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After we'd filled ourselves and I had given up fishing for identifiable pieces of food that had given up on life and drowned in my bowlful of gravy, we decided to order a second round of cocktails. Fatemeh considered her options and settled on a Ramos Fizz. I asked for a \u003cem>Death in The Afternoon\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The choice was simple, if indeed there was any choice involved at all. I was spending a Saturday afternoon with an interesting, beautiful woman. I was drinking cocktails. I wanted to appear louche, dissipated. Though I have never in my life felt especially Ernest Hemingway-ish, I felt that no other drink would do.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Given the name of the beverage I was consuming, it isn't surprising that our conversation turn to the subject of death and grieving.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As we shared about our families and our personal losses, I began to talk about my brother in a way that I had not allowed myself to do in a very long time: the illness, the denial of illness, the slow and painful wasting of his body in the last year and a half of his short life.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'd fought against thinking of him in that way for years. I had always thought it would serve him better if I could remember him as the handsome, shy, quirky young man I'd worshipped as a boy-- the Douglas who shared his fetish for over-the-top, Technicolor MGM musicals with me, not the Douglas who sat in his darkened room alone, listening to tape recordings of the same films, avoiding the light that seemed to hurt his eyes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But there, the middle of the afternoon, I was discussing the horrifying final act of his life. I wondered if our conversation could possibly take on a more upbeat tone after a talk of such loss- of fathers and brothers, of how different people approach coming to terms with that loss-- but it did. Fatemeh, it seems, is not only a serious and thoughtful woman, but possesses the wonderful gift of buoyancy that both I and my meal were currently lacking. She went down into the depths of my pain and somehow lifted me up out of it again.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As I walked home from our encounter, I thought about my brother and realized that it would have been his 49th birthday this weekend. I remembered all of those birthdays we'd shared and the sometimes frustrating sameness of them: the fudge-marbled birthday cake, my mother's Beef Stroganoff, his unwillingness to tear wrapping paper because it was so nice that he might want to use it himself.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And then I thought about my cocktail and how it lead me to my current state of mind. A \u003cem>Death in the Afternoon\u003c/em> is made of champagne--the drink most closely associated with celebration, and absinthe-- the drink of forgetfulness. I thought it an odd combination; a conflict of emotions in a glass. And that damned drink had the opposite effect on me-- it lead to the dredging up of painful memories that I certainly didn't feel like celebrating. It is a drink that caused me to become acutely aware of what was absent from my life.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I made that connection when I came home and looked at the bottle of absinthe a friend of mine bought me for my own birthday last year. In large letters, there it was, just staring right at me:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/Absent.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/Absent.jpg\" alt=\"Absent\" title=\"Absent\" width=\"350\" height=\"302\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-16010\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I put the bottle down and noticed the nearby model of Chitty Chitty Bang Bang Doug had once given me. I then went into the bathroom and stared at his India ink drawing of a plus-sized woman sitting on the beach, reading a book called \u003cem>Les Femmes de Picasso\u003c/em>, with a lobster approaching her with no small amount of menace and her feet buried neatly in the sand. He could never manage to draw feet.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was comforted by the thought that, though he might no longer be physically present, he continued to exist in the details of both my apartment and my life. I decided that alone was worth celebrating. I took the bottle of good champagne I keep for emergencies out of my refrigerator, poured myself a glass, and bypassed the absinthe altogether. I sifted through my dvd collection and opted to watch, for the 147th time, \u003cem>Singin' in the Rain\u003c/em>-- a film he (and countless film critics) deemed \"possibly the greatest musical ever made.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I crawled into bed with my glass of champagne, got lost in two hours of Arthur Freed music, and quietly celebrated a person who I have deemed \"possibly the greatest brother ever made.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He would have approved.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Death in the Afternoon\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The name for this drink is derived from the title of the same name by Ernest Hemingway. It is he who, coincidentally, is credited with the creation of this cocktail for a book of drinks created by writers for the 1935 book \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/So-Red-Nose-Breath-Afternoon/dp/B001LBQQDC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1281656630&sr=8-1\">So Red the Nose, or, Breath in the Afternoon\u003c/a>. The recipe and instructions are Hemingway's own.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Makes one cocktail\u003c/strong>. However, I would advise you to make two of them at a time: one for you, one for a friend because one should not drink-- nor experience death-- alone.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 ½ ounces absinthe\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 ounces Brut champagne\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pour 1 jigger of absinthe into a champagne glass. Add iced champagne until it attains the proper opalescent milkiness. Drink three to five of these slowly.\"\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Blueberry Crumble Pie",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/slice-of-pie.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/slice-of-pie.jpg\" alt=\"slice of pie\" title=\"slice of pie\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15959\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nEach year during blueberry season, I'm reminded of one of my favorite children's books, \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blueberries_for_Sal\">Blueberries for Sal\u003c/a>. If you’re not familiar with this book, here’s the general storyline for this classic \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Robert_McCloskey\">Robert McCloskey\u003c/a> tale.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sal, a toddler in a cute little romper, and her mother go to Blueberry Hill to collect berries to can for the winter. Little do they know that Mama Bear and her baby are also there, eating as many blueberries as they can before they tuck away for a long winter's hibernation. After Sal eats one too many berries from her mother’s pail, mom feels free to send her chubby little tot off to play and pick berries unattended on the wild hill so she can concentrate on her berry collecting duties (written in the 40s, this obviously couldn't happen today without Child Protective Services getting involved). Meanwhile Mama Bear is also annoyed with Baby Bear and so sends him off to find his own berries to store up for the winter. High jinx ensue -- after all, this is a children's story -- and everyone gets all mixed up on Blueberry Hill. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/blueberries-for-sal1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/blueberries-for-sal1.jpg\" alt=\"blueberries for sal\" title=\"blueberries for sal\" width=\"400\" height=\"315\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15967\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sal stumbles upon Mama Bear and Baby Bear comes up behind Sal's mother -- but soon the kids are reunited with their appropriate parents. Sal and her mother have buckets of berries to bring home and Mama and Baby Bear can eat enough to store up for the long cold winter. The ending illustration is of little Sal and her mother canning away in their Maine kitchen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I’ve always loved how this story encapsulates the fleetingness of blueberry season. Sweet and bursting with flavor for a short time, the berries on Blueberry Hill must be picked and eaten or quickly canned before they are lost. Irresistible to Sal and Baby Bear, they are a decadent delight for all children (or anyone) during their brief season. Sure, you can preserve them like Sal and her mom (or these days you can also buy frozen berries), but nothing compares to berries freshly picked. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like Sal, I find blueberries hard to resist this time of year. Sadly I don't live next to Blueberry Hill -- although I would love to see Baby Bear up there eating his fill of berries -- so I don’t have the luxury of picking buckets of them. I can, however, find beautiful mounds of blueberries everywhere I shop. Ripe, plump and juicy, they are ephemerally at their sweetest right now. So in addition to the handfuls of blueberries I like to eat while standing in my kitchen, and the \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2008/08/23/fresh-blueberry-muffins/\">blueberry muffins\u003c/a> I’ve enjoyed recently, I have also made my yearly fresh blueberry crumble pie.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The key to this pie is fresh blueberries. It can be made with frozen berries, but I recommend making it now while the fruit is firm and plump, deliciously sweet with a slightly tart burst. Cooked in a prebaked pie crust, the pastry is buttery and crisp and sits firmly beneath the berry filling (instead of getting soggy). I then top the pie with a traditional fruit crisp topping of oatmeal, flour, sugar and butter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As Sal's mother and Mama Bear knew, blueberry season passes quickly; so why not make the most of it with a pie?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/blueberry-crumble-pie.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/blueberry-crumble-pie.jpg\" alt=\"blueberry crumble pie\" title=\"blueberry crumble pie\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15961\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003cbr>\nBlueberry Crumble Pie\u003cbr>\n\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Makes: \u003c/strong>One pie\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 pie crust\u003cbr>\n5 cups blueberries (cleaned and dried with stems removed)\u003cbr>\n4 Tbsp flour\u003cbr>\n2/3 cup granulated sugar\u003cbr>\nPinch salt\u003cbr>\nZest from 1/2 a lemon\u003cbr>\n1 Tbsp fresh lemon juice\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Topping\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1/2 cup flour\u003cbr>\n1/2 cup oatmeal\u003cbr>\n1/2 cup brown sugar\u003cbr>\n3/4 stick butter\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003cbr>\n\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Place pie crust in you baking dish, top with parchment paper and either pie weights or beans, and bake for 20 minutes. Take crust out of the oven then and then remove the pie weights and parchment paper. Let cool until ready to use.\u003cbr>\n2. Mix berries, white sugar, flour, salt, lemon zest and peel in a large bowl. Set aside.\u003cbr>\n3. Mix topping ingredients, being sure to thoroughly incorporate the butter into the flour, oatmeal and sugar so it resembles small pebbles.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/placing-berries-in-the-crust.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/placing-berries-in-the-crust.jpg\" alt=\"\" title=\"placing berries in the crust\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15962\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Set blueberries into the cooked pie crust. Top with the oatmeal and flour mixture, being sure to mound it securely on top. Bake for 50 - 60 minutes or until the topping is golden brown and the filing is bubbling. If the topping browns too quickly while baking, place foil on it.\u003cbr>\n5. Let pie cool and serve with ice cream.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "The key to this pie is fresh blueberries. It can be made with frozen berries, but I recommend making it now while the fruit is firm and plump, deliciously sweet with a slightly tart burst. Cooked in a prebaked pie crust, the pastry is buttery and crisp and sits firmly beneath the berry filling (instead of getting soggy). I then top the pie with a traditional fruit crisp topping of oatmeal, flour, sugar and butter.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/slice-of-pie.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/slice-of-pie.jpg\" alt=\"slice of pie\" title=\"slice of pie\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15959\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nEach year during blueberry season, I'm reminded of one of my favorite children's books, \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blueberries_for_Sal\">Blueberries for Sal\u003c/a>. If you’re not familiar with this book, here’s the general storyline for this classic \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Robert_McCloskey\">Robert McCloskey\u003c/a> tale.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sal, a toddler in a cute little romper, and her mother go to Blueberry Hill to collect berries to can for the winter. Little do they know that Mama Bear and her baby are also there, eating as many blueberries as they can before they tuck away for a long winter's hibernation. After Sal eats one too many berries from her mother’s pail, mom feels free to send her chubby little tot off to play and pick berries unattended on the wild hill so she can concentrate on her berry collecting duties (written in the 40s, this obviously couldn't happen today without Child Protective Services getting involved). Meanwhile Mama Bear is also annoyed with Baby Bear and so sends him off to find his own berries to store up for the winter. High jinx ensue -- after all, this is a children's story -- and everyone gets all mixed up on Blueberry Hill. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/blueberries-for-sal1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/blueberries-for-sal1.jpg\" alt=\"blueberries for sal\" title=\"blueberries for sal\" width=\"400\" height=\"315\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15967\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sal stumbles upon Mama Bear and Baby Bear comes up behind Sal's mother -- but soon the kids are reunited with their appropriate parents. Sal and her mother have buckets of berries to bring home and Mama and Baby Bear can eat enough to store up for the long cold winter. The ending illustration is of little Sal and her mother canning away in their Maine kitchen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I’ve always loved how this story encapsulates the fleetingness of blueberry season. Sweet and bursting with flavor for a short time, the berries on Blueberry Hill must be picked and eaten or quickly canned before they are lost. Irresistible to Sal and Baby Bear, they are a decadent delight for all children (or anyone) during their brief season. Sure, you can preserve them like Sal and her mom (or these days you can also buy frozen berries), but nothing compares to berries freshly picked. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like Sal, I find blueberries hard to resist this time of year. Sadly I don't live next to Blueberry Hill -- although I would love to see Baby Bear up there eating his fill of berries -- so I don’t have the luxury of picking buckets of them. I can, however, find beautiful mounds of blueberries everywhere I shop. Ripe, plump and juicy, they are ephemerally at their sweetest right now. So in addition to the handfuls of blueberries I like to eat while standing in my kitchen, and the \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2008/08/23/fresh-blueberry-muffins/\">blueberry muffins\u003c/a> I’ve enjoyed recently, I have also made my yearly fresh blueberry crumble pie.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The key to this pie is fresh blueberries. It can be made with frozen berries, but I recommend making it now while the fruit is firm and plump, deliciously sweet with a slightly tart burst. Cooked in a prebaked pie crust, the pastry is buttery and crisp and sits firmly beneath the berry filling (instead of getting soggy). I then top the pie with a traditional fruit crisp topping of oatmeal, flour, sugar and butter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As Sal's mother and Mama Bear knew, blueberry season passes quickly; so why not make the most of it with a pie?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/blueberry-crumble-pie.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/blueberry-crumble-pie.jpg\" alt=\"blueberry crumble pie\" title=\"blueberry crumble pie\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15961\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003cbr>\nBlueberry Crumble Pie\u003cbr>\n\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Makes: \u003c/strong>One pie\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 pie crust\u003cbr>\n5 cups blueberries (cleaned and dried with stems removed)\u003cbr>\n4 Tbsp flour\u003cbr>\n2/3 cup granulated sugar\u003cbr>\nPinch salt\u003cbr>\nZest from 1/2 a lemon\u003cbr>\n1 Tbsp fresh lemon juice\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Topping\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1/2 cup flour\u003cbr>\n1/2 cup oatmeal\u003cbr>\n1/2 cup brown sugar\u003cbr>\n3/4 stick butter\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003cbr>\n\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Place pie crust in you baking dish, top with parchment paper and either pie weights or beans, and bake for 20 minutes. Take crust out of the oven then and then remove the pie weights and parchment paper. Let cool until ready to use.\u003cbr>\n2. Mix berries, white sugar, flour, salt, lemon zest and peel in a large bowl. Set aside.\u003cbr>\n3. Mix topping ingredients, being sure to thoroughly incorporate the butter into the flour, oatmeal and sugar so it resembles small pebbles.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/placing-berries-in-the-crust.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/placing-berries-in-the-crust.jpg\" alt=\"\" title=\"placing berries in the crust\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15962\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Set blueberries into the cooked pie crust. Top with the oatmeal and flour mixture, being sure to mound it securely on top. Bake for 50 - 60 minutes or until the topping is golden brown and the filing is bubbling. If the topping browns too quickly while baking, place foil on it.\u003cbr>\n5. Let pie cool and serve with ice cream.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/IMG_8026.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/IMG_8026.jpg\" alt=\"Spicy Mash Ingredients\" title=\"Spicy Mash Ingredients\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15928\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Ingredients for Spicy Mash\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Indian food -- the aromatic spices, the color, the bold flavors. Love it. Unfortunately, I'm a bit of a wimp when it comes to heat (good thing for raita and mango lassis to soothe my burning tongue). But, when I tasted this \u003cstrong>Spicy Mash\u003c/strong> for the first time, it was so delicious I couldn't stop eating it. Tears were starting to stream down my face, but my hand just kept bringing forkful after forkful to my mouth. It hurt so good.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This brilliant recipe is all thanks to my lovely friend, \u003ca href=\"http://www.fatemayasmine.com/\">Fatema\u003c/a>. I was super excited when she offered to come over one night to teach us some Indian home-cooking. I've experimented a bit with Indian food before, but still haven't been able really nail my favorites, like Chicken Tikka Masala (the hunt continues for the perfect recipe).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As Fatema unpacked her bag of groceries, I quickly discovered why. It's in the spices! Fatema's mum had just sent her a shipment of spices from Bangladesh via London. They knocked the socks off any of the jarred spices I had in my spice rack. I might as well be storing sawdust in my pantry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The fragrance and potency of those \u003cstrong>Indian spices\u003c/strong> transformed this very simple dish of smashed potatoes. \u003cstrong>Raw onion\u003c/strong> and \u003cstrong>cilantro\u003c/strong> also added layers of savory, fresh, flavor. (I know, I usually hate raw onions, but it works in this. The trick is to slice them as thin as possible.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The measurements in this adapted version of \u003cstrong>Spicy Mash\u003c/strong> are based on the potent spices I received from Fatema, so this may take a little bit of trial and error the first time you make it with the store-bought stuff (assuming you don't have a little Indian spice fairy like I do). My recommendation is to make the spice butter as directed and then add it gradually to the potatoes, \u003cstrong>tasting as you go\u003c/strong>. If more flavor is needed, you can always add more spice, but remember, you can never take out. So taste, taste, taste, as you go, until you get just the right ratio to your liking. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I also made some adaptations to Fatema's original recipe. Like I mentioned before, I can't take too much heat, so I omitted the minced green chilis she used and cut down on the amount of chili powder. I also added some ginger, grated to a pulp on a microplane, for some extra umph…and a bit of milk and cream cheese, which has always been a secret ingredient in my house when it comes to creamy mashed potatoes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Special thanks to my little spice fairy and her spice smuggling mum! \u003cstrong>Spicy Mash\u003c/strong> is definitely going to be a new staple in my repertoire. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/IMG_8032.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/IMG_8032.jpg\" alt=\"Spicy Mash\" title=\"Spicy Mash\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15929\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Spicy Mash\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Spicy Mash\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Serves:\u003c/strong> 4-6 as a side\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n2 pounds potatoes, peeled and quartered\u003cbr>\n½ cup onion, thinly sliced\u003cbr>\n¼ cup chopped cilantro\u003cbr>\n1/3 cup milk\u003cbr>\n3 tablespoons butter\u003cbr>\n1 ounce cream cheese\u003cbr>\n1 tablespoon grated ginger\u003cbr>\n2 teaspoons salt\u003cbr>\n2 teaspoons yellow curry powder\u003cbr>\n½ teaspoon turmeric\u003cbr>\n¼ teaspoon chili powder\u003cbr>\nPinch of chili flakes\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1.\tBoil potatoes about 20 minutes, or until you can pierce through them easily with a fork.\u003cbr>\n2.\tMash the potatoes, adding the milk, cream cheese, ginger, and salt, and incorporating well.\u003cbr>\n3.\tIn a saucepan, melt the butter until it starts to froth. Add the curry, turmeric, chili powder, and chili flakes. Cook the spices for a minute or so in the butter, toasting them up until they are fragrant. Be careful not to burn them.\u003cbr>\n4.\tAdd this to the mashed potatoes and mix well.\u003cbr>\n5.\tStir in the onions and cilantro. Serve while warm.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Note: If you love spice and need more heat, add some finely minced green chili pepper.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/IMG_8026.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/IMG_8026.jpg\" alt=\"Spicy Mash Ingredients\" title=\"Spicy Mash Ingredients\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15928\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Ingredients for Spicy Mash\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Indian food -- the aromatic spices, the color, the bold flavors. Love it. Unfortunately, I'm a bit of a wimp when it comes to heat (good thing for raita and mango lassis to soothe my burning tongue). But, when I tasted this \u003cstrong>Spicy Mash\u003c/strong> for the first time, it was so delicious I couldn't stop eating it. Tears were starting to stream down my face, but my hand just kept bringing forkful after forkful to my mouth. It hurt so good.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This brilliant recipe is all thanks to my lovely friend, \u003ca href=\"http://www.fatemayasmine.com/\">Fatema\u003c/a>. I was super excited when she offered to come over one night to teach us some Indian home-cooking. I've experimented a bit with Indian food before, but still haven't been able really nail my favorites, like Chicken Tikka Masala (the hunt continues for the perfect recipe).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As Fatema unpacked her bag of groceries, I quickly discovered why. It's in the spices! Fatema's mum had just sent her a shipment of spices from Bangladesh via London. They knocked the socks off any of the jarred spices I had in my spice rack. I might as well be storing sawdust in my pantry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The fragrance and potency of those \u003cstrong>Indian spices\u003c/strong> transformed this very simple dish of smashed potatoes. \u003cstrong>Raw onion\u003c/strong> and \u003cstrong>cilantro\u003c/strong> also added layers of savory, fresh, flavor. (I know, I usually hate raw onions, but it works in this. The trick is to slice them as thin as possible.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The measurements in this adapted version of \u003cstrong>Spicy Mash\u003c/strong> are based on the potent spices I received from Fatema, so this may take a little bit of trial and error the first time you make it with the store-bought stuff (assuming you don't have a little Indian spice fairy like I do). My recommendation is to make the spice butter as directed and then add it gradually to the potatoes, \u003cstrong>tasting as you go\u003c/strong>. If more flavor is needed, you can always add more spice, but remember, you can never take out. So taste, taste, taste, as you go, until you get just the right ratio to your liking. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I also made some adaptations to Fatema's original recipe. Like I mentioned before, I can't take too much heat, so I omitted the minced green chilis she used and cut down on the amount of chili powder. I also added some ginger, grated to a pulp on a microplane, for some extra umph…and a bit of milk and cream cheese, which has always been a secret ingredient in my house when it comes to creamy mashed potatoes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Special thanks to my little spice fairy and her spice smuggling mum! \u003cstrong>Spicy Mash\u003c/strong> is definitely going to be a new staple in my repertoire. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/IMG_8032.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/IMG_8032.jpg\" alt=\"Spicy Mash\" title=\"Spicy Mash\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15929\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Spicy Mash\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Spicy Mash\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Serves:\u003c/strong> 4-6 as a side\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n2 pounds potatoes, peeled and quartered\u003cbr>\n½ cup onion, thinly sliced\u003cbr>\n¼ cup chopped cilantro\u003cbr>\n1/3 cup milk\u003cbr>\n3 tablespoons butter\u003cbr>\n1 ounce cream cheese\u003cbr>\n1 tablespoon grated ginger\u003cbr>\n2 teaspoons salt\u003cbr>\n2 teaspoons yellow curry powder\u003cbr>\n½ teaspoon turmeric\u003cbr>\n¼ teaspoon chili powder\u003cbr>\nPinch of chili flakes\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1.\tBoil potatoes about 20 minutes, or until you can pierce through them easily with a fork.\u003cbr>\n2.\tMash the potatoes, adding the milk, cream cheese, ginger, and salt, and incorporating well.\u003cbr>\n3.\tIn a saucepan, melt the butter until it starts to froth. Add the curry, turmeric, chili powder, and chili flakes. Cook the spices for a minute or so in the butter, toasting them up until they are fragrant. Be careful not to burn them.\u003cbr>\n4.\tAdd this to the mashed potatoes and mix well.\u003cbr>\n5.\tStir in the onions and cilantro. Serve while warm.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Note: If you love spice and need more heat, add some finely minced green chili pepper.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "The Glean Team",
"title": "The Glean Team",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/gleaners500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/gleaners500.jpg\" alt=\"gleaners\" title=\"gleaners\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15900\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Anyone who's ever browsed through the baskets of \u003ca href=\"http://www.starroutefarms.com/\">Star Route Farms\u003c/a> or \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfzc.org/ggf/\">Green Gulch Farm\u003c/a> knows what beautiful greens look like. Bunches of taut, brilliantly verdant kale and chard, each leaf perfectly ruffled or puckered, turgid and bright, rustling together crisp as taffeta or a new dollar bill. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Such perfection is no mean feat for an organic farm, where insidious leaf-miners and flea beetles (to name just two of a whole host of burrowing, munching hungry creatures who have a greedy lust for chard and arugula unmatched by even Alice Waters) can turn a row of gorgeous leaves into hole-punched eyelet overnight. Strong plants, good soil, a lot of attention, companion plantings that feed beneficial bugs--all these help. But so does accepting that your crop is always going to be on a bell curve, and not every leaf can be above average. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, restaurant chefs (and the picky shoppers paying top dollar at Ferry Plaza) want perfection. Providing impeccable produce year after year has made the reputation of these local farms. But what happens to all the delectable but not-quite-gorgeous-enough stuff? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Thanks to \u003ca href=\"http://www.marinorganic.org\">Marin Organic\u003c/a>, it's showing up on the plates of those who need it most: active, hungry, growing kids. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Every Monday, Scott Davidson, Marin Organic's School Lunch and Gleaning Program Manager, meets up with an all-ages group of volunteers at a selected farm. The task is simple: go through rows that have already been harvested for sale, and pick the best of what's left. The produce is boxed, rinsed, and loaded onto Marin Organic's truck. Cooled overnight, it's delivered the next day to schools, camps, and/or after-school programs all over Marin, either for free or at very low cost. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fresh, nutritious, locally-grown produce goes to the kitchen and turns into lunch--and because there's no cost to the farm, and very little cost in labor, participating schools actually save money, money that can then be spent on getting more healthy food to their students. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Anyone with a couple of hours free on a Monday afternoon can \u003ca href=\"http://www.marinorganic.org/organic_school_lunch.php\">join the Glean Team\u003c/a>. Sign up online or over the phone, and an email detailing the next week's location will be sent to you every Friday. Usually, the location flip-flops between Green Gulch and Star Route, with a few other farms making occasional appearances. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wear a jacket and don't-mind-getting-muddy shoes, and bring a few tote and/or plastic bags for your post-gleaning haul. (After the gleaning is done, volunteers can go through the harvested section yet again and pick for themselves.) \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Last Monday, we left a hot, sunny afternoon in Oakland for the cool, foggy twists of the Shoreline Highway, bumping down the eucalyptus-lined road to the Zen Center's Green Gulch Farm. As you might expect from a longtime Buddhist retreat cupped close to the ocean, the whole place is soaked in peace and abundantly quiet. The joy jumps out in color: ravishingly purple bursts of lavender, whorled-pink roses, black-red pincushion flowers, vermillion-tipped raspberry canes and espaliered apples and pears weighted with green-and-gold fruit. Yellow-spattered mustard plants gone to flower reach up six feet high over the broccoli and cabbage rows we've come to harvest.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These weed-laced rows are going to be mowed under tomorrow, Scott tells us. The biggest, fattest heads of broccoli and cauliflower have already been picked, but sharp eyes can find side shoots, mini-heads growing next to where the main stalk was broken off. These tender, bite-sized florets are gold to school-kitchen chefs, he tells us, easy to cook and easy to eat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/broccoli500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/broccoli500.jpg\" alt=\"broccoli\" title=\"broccoli\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15902\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We fan out down the rows. Everyone likes the hunt, especially the teenage boys in the crew. The leaves are huge and heavy, hiding the score, but underneath, the tender stalks snap easily and our recycled waxed-cardboard boxes fill up fast. We move onto small, loosely curled heads of cabbage, then over to red-veined plumes of ruby chard, puckery dino kale and curled Bloomsdale spinach. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We're mindful to take only the best-looking stuff, part of the education process of eating local and organic. Because it's being given away, it has to look better, even, than what's bought: No one, even a cash-strapped camp or school, wants to feel like a dumping ground for wormy charity carrots, no matter how much Vitamin A they might provide. It's not hard, however: there are still plenty of lovely greens left, enough to fill at least twenty-five or thirty boxes, if not more. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/broccoli500a.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/broccoli500a.jpg\" alt=\"broccoli\" title=\"broccoli\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15904\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Scott points out the clumps of nettles growing in between the rows. This weed is probably the most nutritious thing growing on the farm (sellable for at least $6 a pound at a farmers' market) but the leaves will cause a brief, itchy sting if touched. They do leave their mark on my wrists and knees as I pick, but I don't mind: I've happily paid good money for nettle soup and nettle pasta at \u003ca href=\"http://www.delfinasf.com\">Delfina\u003c/a>. Tomorrow's breakfast will be emerald eggs, scrambled with sauteed nettles. (Once cooked, they're harmless and delicious, especially rich in B vitamins. Just wear gloves, or use tongs, when working with the raw item.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By six o'clock, the boxes are neatly stacked in the truck. Now we can go over the rows one more time, picking for ourselves. Now I'm not so particular: holey chard, nettle tips, tiny volunteer beets and potatoes all go into my bag. We'll be living off this bounty for a few days at least, while back at the farm, the tractor will be turning under the last few roots and leaves, making room for a new planting. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/greenpie500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/greenpie500.jpg\" alt=\"Green Gulch Greens Pie\" title=\"Green Gulch Greens Pie\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15906\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Green Gulch Greens Pie \u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nThis adaptable, calzone-like pie is inspired by Greek spanikopita. You could easily replace the yeast dough with six or seven sheets of defrosted phyllo dough, brushing melted butter between each sheet before filling and sealing. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Any mixture of reasonably tender greens will work here, including chard, spinach, orach, mustard, radish or turnip tops, lacinato (dino) kale, and beet greens. If you want to add in some tougher greens, like collards, kale, or broccoli leaves, be sure to shred them very finely so they'll cook as fast as the softer greens. A handful of strongly flavored greens, like arugula, parsley, or sorrel can be tossed in as an accent. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Makes 2 pies\u003c/strong>, enough to serve 6-8\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nFor dough:\u003cbr>\n1 1/2 tsp yeast (1/2 package)\u003cbr>\n3/4 cup lukewarm water\u003cbr>\n2 cups all-purpose white flour, or 1 cup white flour mixed with 1 cup whole wheat flour\u003cbr>\n1 tbsp cornmeal\u003cbr>\n1 tsp salt\u003cbr>\n1 tbsp olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For filling:\u003cbr>\napproximately 10 cups shredded mixed greens\u003cbr>\n1 large onion, peeled and diced (about 1 cup)\u003cbr>\n4 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped\u003cbr>\n2 tablespoons olive oil\u003cbr>\n1/4 tsp freshly grated nutmeg, or to taste\u003cbr>\nJuice and grated rind of 1 lemon\u003cbr>\n2 oz. feta cheese, crumbled\u003cbr>\n1 oz. ricotta salata, crumbled\u003cbr>\nSalt, if needed\u003cbr>\n2 eggs\u003cbr>\n2 tbsp raw rice\u003cbr>\nEgg wash (optional): 1 egg yolk beaten with 1 tbsp water\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1. To make dough: Dissolve yeast in water and let sit for a few minutes. In a large bowl, stir together flour, cornmeal and salt. Pour in yeast mixture and olive oil. Stir to make a pliable dough. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. On a lightly floured surface, knead dough for 5-8 minutes, until it feels springy and elastic. Rinse out bowl, coat lightly with olive oil, and return dough to the bowl, turning to coat with oil. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Cover bowl with a clean damp towel and let dough rise in a warm place until doubled in bulk, about 1 1/2 hours. Punch down and divide dough in two.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. While dough is rising, make filling: Place a large saute pan over medium-low heat. Add oil, then onions and garlic. Cook, stirring frequently, until onions are soft and translucent but not browned. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5. Add greens by the handful, stirring, until they collapse and cook down. (You make have to do this in batches, removing the already cooked greens to a separate bowl.) \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6. When all the greens are cooked, add nutmeg, lemon juice and lemon rind, and crumbled cheeses. Let cool slightly, and taste for seasoning, adding salt if needed. Stir in rice and beaten eggs, and let sit for 15 minutes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>7. To assemble, preheat oven to 375F. Roll and stretch one dough ball into a long oval. Lightly grease a large rimmed baking sheet. Place dough on sheet. Cover half the oval with greens filling, leaving an inch-wide margin. Fold over remaining dough and pinch together to seal. Repeat with remaining portion of dough. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>8. If desired, brush pies with egg wash. Bake for 45-50 minutes, until dough is firm and golden brown. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For more information or to sign up with the Glean Team, go to \u003ca href=\"http://www.marinorganic.org/organic_school_lunch.php#glean\">Marin Organic\u003c/a>. The next outing will be Monday, Aug. 9th, from 4-6pm at Star Route Farms in Bolinas. \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"headline": "The Glean Team",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/gleaners500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/gleaners500.jpg\" alt=\"gleaners\" title=\"gleaners\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15900\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Anyone who's ever browsed through the baskets of \u003ca href=\"http://www.starroutefarms.com/\">Star Route Farms\u003c/a> or \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfzc.org/ggf/\">Green Gulch Farm\u003c/a> knows what beautiful greens look like. Bunches of taut, brilliantly verdant kale and chard, each leaf perfectly ruffled or puckered, turgid and bright, rustling together crisp as taffeta or a new dollar bill. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Such perfection is no mean feat for an organic farm, where insidious leaf-miners and flea beetles (to name just two of a whole host of burrowing, munching hungry creatures who have a greedy lust for chard and arugula unmatched by even Alice Waters) can turn a row of gorgeous leaves into hole-punched eyelet overnight. Strong plants, good soil, a lot of attention, companion plantings that feed beneficial bugs--all these help. But so does accepting that your crop is always going to be on a bell curve, and not every leaf can be above average. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, restaurant chefs (and the picky shoppers paying top dollar at Ferry Plaza) want perfection. Providing impeccable produce year after year has made the reputation of these local farms. But what happens to all the delectable but not-quite-gorgeous-enough stuff? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Thanks to \u003ca href=\"http://www.marinorganic.org\">Marin Organic\u003c/a>, it's showing up on the plates of those who need it most: active, hungry, growing kids. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Every Monday, Scott Davidson, Marin Organic's School Lunch and Gleaning Program Manager, meets up with an all-ages group of volunteers at a selected farm. The task is simple: go through rows that have already been harvested for sale, and pick the best of what's left. The produce is boxed, rinsed, and loaded onto Marin Organic's truck. Cooled overnight, it's delivered the next day to schools, camps, and/or after-school programs all over Marin, either for free or at very low cost. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fresh, nutritious, locally-grown produce goes to the kitchen and turns into lunch--and because there's no cost to the farm, and very little cost in labor, participating schools actually save money, money that can then be spent on getting more healthy food to their students. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Anyone with a couple of hours free on a Monday afternoon can \u003ca href=\"http://www.marinorganic.org/organic_school_lunch.php\">join the Glean Team\u003c/a>. Sign up online or over the phone, and an email detailing the next week's location will be sent to you every Friday. Usually, the location flip-flops between Green Gulch and Star Route, with a few other farms making occasional appearances. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wear a jacket and don't-mind-getting-muddy shoes, and bring a few tote and/or plastic bags for your post-gleaning haul. (After the gleaning is done, volunteers can go through the harvested section yet again and pick for themselves.) \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Last Monday, we left a hot, sunny afternoon in Oakland for the cool, foggy twists of the Shoreline Highway, bumping down the eucalyptus-lined road to the Zen Center's Green Gulch Farm. As you might expect from a longtime Buddhist retreat cupped close to the ocean, the whole place is soaked in peace and abundantly quiet. The joy jumps out in color: ravishingly purple bursts of lavender, whorled-pink roses, black-red pincushion flowers, vermillion-tipped raspberry canes and espaliered apples and pears weighted with green-and-gold fruit. Yellow-spattered mustard plants gone to flower reach up six feet high over the broccoli and cabbage rows we've come to harvest.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These weed-laced rows are going to be mowed under tomorrow, Scott tells us. The biggest, fattest heads of broccoli and cauliflower have already been picked, but sharp eyes can find side shoots, mini-heads growing next to where the main stalk was broken off. These tender, bite-sized florets are gold to school-kitchen chefs, he tells us, easy to cook and easy to eat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/broccoli500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/broccoli500.jpg\" alt=\"broccoli\" title=\"broccoli\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15902\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We fan out down the rows. Everyone likes the hunt, especially the teenage boys in the crew. The leaves are huge and heavy, hiding the score, but underneath, the tender stalks snap easily and our recycled waxed-cardboard boxes fill up fast. We move onto small, loosely curled heads of cabbage, then over to red-veined plumes of ruby chard, puckery dino kale and curled Bloomsdale spinach. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We're mindful to take only the best-looking stuff, part of the education process of eating local and organic. Because it's being given away, it has to look better, even, than what's bought: No one, even a cash-strapped camp or school, wants to feel like a dumping ground for wormy charity carrots, no matter how much Vitamin A they might provide. It's not hard, however: there are still plenty of lovely greens left, enough to fill at least twenty-five or thirty boxes, if not more. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/broccoli500a.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/broccoli500a.jpg\" alt=\"broccoli\" title=\"broccoli\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15904\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Scott points out the clumps of nettles growing in between the rows. This weed is probably the most nutritious thing growing on the farm (sellable for at least $6 a pound at a farmers' market) but the leaves will cause a brief, itchy sting if touched. They do leave their mark on my wrists and knees as I pick, but I don't mind: I've happily paid good money for nettle soup and nettle pasta at \u003ca href=\"http://www.delfinasf.com\">Delfina\u003c/a>. Tomorrow's breakfast will be emerald eggs, scrambled with sauteed nettles. (Once cooked, they're harmless and delicious, especially rich in B vitamins. Just wear gloves, or use tongs, when working with the raw item.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By six o'clock, the boxes are neatly stacked in the truck. Now we can go over the rows one more time, picking for ourselves. Now I'm not so particular: holey chard, nettle tips, tiny volunteer beets and potatoes all go into my bag. We'll be living off this bounty for a few days at least, while back at the farm, the tractor will be turning under the last few roots and leaves, making room for a new planting. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/greenpie500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/greenpie500.jpg\" alt=\"Green Gulch Greens Pie\" title=\"Green Gulch Greens Pie\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15906\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Green Gulch Greens Pie \u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nThis adaptable, calzone-like pie is inspired by Greek spanikopita. You could easily replace the yeast dough with six or seven sheets of defrosted phyllo dough, brushing melted butter between each sheet before filling and sealing. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Any mixture of reasonably tender greens will work here, including chard, spinach, orach, mustard, radish or turnip tops, lacinato (dino) kale, and beet greens. If you want to add in some tougher greens, like collards, kale, or broccoli leaves, be sure to shred them very finely so they'll cook as fast as the softer greens. A handful of strongly flavored greens, like arugula, parsley, or sorrel can be tossed in as an accent. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Makes 2 pies\u003c/strong>, enough to serve 6-8\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nFor dough:\u003cbr>\n1 1/2 tsp yeast (1/2 package)\u003cbr>\n3/4 cup lukewarm water\u003cbr>\n2 cups all-purpose white flour, or 1 cup white flour mixed with 1 cup whole wheat flour\u003cbr>\n1 tbsp cornmeal\u003cbr>\n1 tsp salt\u003cbr>\n1 tbsp olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For filling:\u003cbr>\napproximately 10 cups shredded mixed greens\u003cbr>\n1 large onion, peeled and diced (about 1 cup)\u003cbr>\n4 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped\u003cbr>\n2 tablespoons olive oil\u003cbr>\n1/4 tsp freshly grated nutmeg, or to taste\u003cbr>\nJuice and grated rind of 1 lemon\u003cbr>\n2 oz. feta cheese, crumbled\u003cbr>\n1 oz. ricotta salata, crumbled\u003cbr>\nSalt, if needed\u003cbr>\n2 eggs\u003cbr>\n2 tbsp raw rice\u003cbr>\nEgg wash (optional): 1 egg yolk beaten with 1 tbsp water\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1. To make dough: Dissolve yeast in water and let sit for a few minutes. In a large bowl, stir together flour, cornmeal and salt. Pour in yeast mixture and olive oil. Stir to make a pliable dough. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. On a lightly floured surface, knead dough for 5-8 minutes, until it feels springy and elastic. Rinse out bowl, coat lightly with olive oil, and return dough to the bowl, turning to coat with oil. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Cover bowl with a clean damp towel and let dough rise in a warm place until doubled in bulk, about 1 1/2 hours. Punch down and divide dough in two.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. While dough is rising, make filling: Place a large saute pan over medium-low heat. Add oil, then onions and garlic. Cook, stirring frequently, until onions are soft and translucent but not browned. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5. Add greens by the handful, stirring, until they collapse and cook down. (You make have to do this in batches, removing the already cooked greens to a separate bowl.) \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6. When all the greens are cooked, add nutmeg, lemon juice and lemon rind, and crumbled cheeses. Let cool slightly, and taste for seasoning, adding salt if needed. Stir in rice and beaten eggs, and let sit for 15 minutes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>7. To assemble, preheat oven to 375F. Roll and stretch one dough ball into a long oval. Lightly grease a large rimmed baking sheet. Place dough on sheet. Cover half the oval with greens filling, leaving an inch-wide margin. Fold over remaining dough and pinch together to seal. Repeat with remaining portion of dough. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>8. If desired, brush pies with egg wash. Bake for 45-50 minutes, until dough is firm and golden brown. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For more information or to sign up with the Glean Team, go to \u003ca href=\"http://www.marinorganic.org/organic_school_lunch.php#glean\">Marin Organic\u003c/a>. The next outing will be Monday, Aug. 9th, from 4-6pm at Star Route Farms in Bolinas. \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Summer in Morocco or, Bastilla Day",
"title": "Summer in Morocco or, Bastilla Day",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/bastilla.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/bastilla.jpg\" alt=\"bastilla\" title=\"bastilla\" width=\"233\" height=\"350\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-15790\">\u003c/a>I was confused by Morocco before I even left the plane. Looking down at its Mediterranean coastline after a stretch of late-Winter rains, I turned to the friend sitting next to me and said with more than a little disbelief:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's \u003cem>green\u003c/em>. Is this normal? I didn't think it would be this... \u003cem>green\u003c/em>.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I had always imagined Morocco clad in the colors of sand and dust. I'd allowed for certain man-made outbursts of color-- the blood red of the flag, the ornate vibrancy of their pottery and woven goods, but that green caught me completely by surprise. It was like some sort of unexpected welcome gift.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Though exhausted and thoroughly disoriented by travel, I was excited by the prospect of spending the next three weeks in a country about which I knew precious little and, after a good night's sleep, I couldn't wait to find out what other surprises Morocco would show me.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That is, of course, if the Customs official would let me into the damned country. In filling out the line that read \"occupation,\" I wrote \"waiter\" in what I thought was clear block printing. The man who held the key to my entrance-- the passport stamp-- misread my job. It was as though The Spellbinder from \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z3y_H3SaoAY&feature=fw\">The Adventures of Letterman\u003c/a> had changed the \"a\" in \"waiter\" to an \"r.\" The official scrutinized me.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You are a \u003cem>writer\u003c/em>? Do you plan to write of your visit to Morocco?\" When I told him that I was a waiter, not a writer, and that I did not plan on writing about his country, he seemed skeptical.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You are a writer who says he will not \u003cem>write\u003c/em>?\" He then muttered something in French to his partner, who was now looking at my passport. Oh, yes, I thought. French! I can explain to them my situation in French and clear things right up.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Je n'suis pas ecrivain,\" I told them. And then I couldn't remember the word for \"waiter\" in French. \"Moi, je... je... j'habite au restaurant.\" In my bad, nervous French, I told them that I lived in a restaurant, which wasn't too far from the truth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Whether they believed me or felt sorry for me or both, I will never know. Once I promised them that I was in their country strictly for pleasure and that I would not write about it (or them), the man with the little stamp finally inked my passport.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So here I am, four years later, writing about it. Did they know something I didn't?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As my friends and I piled into the bus that would take us to our hotel, we began to wonder aloud what our guide would be like. We had bought out a tour group excursion and would have said guide all to ourselves. How old was he? What would he look like? Would he be hot? When we got to the hotel, we were all looking for our idealized tour guide-- an attractive 30-something Moroccan man.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And then I noticed that the only person hanging about outside the place was a young blonde woman with a clip board. She introduced herself to us. Her name was Summer. The disappointment of my little group was palpable.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Her name is \u003cem>Summer\u003c/em>? You've got to be (expletive) kidding me,\" whispered one friend. She was 25, from Southern California. This was her first time leading a group of tourists. It was just her luck to get handed a group of smart-assed gay men ranging in age from 34 to 50.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I knew she was going to be eaten alive. I felt sorry for her. She whisked us off to dinner and a little orientation. We followed, hungry, tired and very skeptical.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When we sat down to dinner, she began the orientation. One of my friends muttered some bitchy remark which she was more than likely meant to overhear. And then, with barely a turn of her head, she countered the attack with something that not only cut the man down to size, but had him laughing at the same time (I wish to g-d I could remember what it was). The mood of the entire room changed in an instant. Within an hour of meeting her, she had all of us eating out of the palm of her hand, which isn't too far from the literal truth, since one eats nearly everything with one's hands in Morocco.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We adored her.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/Flying-Teeth1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/Flying-Teeth1-150x150.jpg\" alt=\"Flying Teeth\" title=\"Flying Teeth\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-15794\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Over the course of those three weeks, she hauled us from souk to souk in cities like Meknes and Fes and Rabat; showed us Roman ruins and attack geese in the still-green hills of Voulibilis; organized a birthday party with magic tricks and Berber musicians in the arid plains of Midelt; allowed us to stop play in the snow of the Atlas Mountains; took us hiking in the Todra Gorge; had us ride mangy, horny camels into the Sahara desert to sleep in the dunes under a full moon; and had us doing about a thousand other fascinating things that would require too much time to write about today.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/Waters-Seller-in-Rabat.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/Waters-Seller-in-Rabat-150x150.jpg\" alt=\"Waters Seller in Rabat\" title=\"Waters Seller in Rabat\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-15797\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/Sahara-Dunes.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/Sahara-Dunes-150x150.jpg\" alt=\"Sahara Dunes\" title=\"Sahara Dunes\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-15798\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/Camel-Head.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/Camel-Head-150x150.jpg\" alt=\"Camel Head\" title=\"Camel Head\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-15799\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/600419084303.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/600419084303-150x150.jpg\" alt=\"Michael of the Sahara\" title=\"Michael of the Sahara\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-15800\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We were overwhelmed, exhausted, and very, very happy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My only complaint was that every activity seemed to be fueled by the consumption of tagine, kefta, and \"Berber whiskey\"-- otherwise known as mint tea. As over-stimulating as our trip had been, the food had become monotonous-- a hand-washing, tea-pouring, couscous-eating bore.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Until, that is, we entered the town of Ouarzazate where we embarked upon one of the most delightful and surreal lunches in my memory. If one considers that Ouarzazate is the center of the Moroccan film industry, this shouldn't come as much of a surprise. A city whose Atlas Film Studios has added footage to such films as \u003cem>Lawrence of Arabia\u003c/em>, \u003cem>Gladiator\u003c/em>, and \u003cem>Asterix & Obelix: Mission Cleopatra\u003c/em> makes fantasy it's primary business. But our lunch had very little to do with the movies.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Instead, it had everything to do with a children's book.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I saw a little French place down the road the last time I was here,\" Summer said,\" but it wouldn't be included in the tour price-- it will cost extra.\" A \"civilized\" luncheon at a French restaurant in the middle of the High Atlas plateau after days of hiking and sleeping on camel blankets seem appealing. We all agreed that we would pay for Summer's meal, too. We'd pay for anything-- especially if there was wine involved.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There was.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/St.-Exupery.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/St.-Exupery-300x259.jpg\" alt=\"St. Exupery\" title=\"St. Exupery\" width=\"300\" height=\"259\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-15803\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The \"little French place\" Summer had in mind was a shrine to Antoine de St. Exupéry, author of The Little Prince. My brother had sent me a copy of the book in the original French when I was a boy, hoping that I would someday be able to read it as well has he could. I never could keep up with him. However, that wasn't going to stop me from enjoying my lunch. I marveled at the randomness of finding such a treasure in a place that-- though very Big City to me after spending several days in the wildness of North Africa-- still felt a bit like the middle of nowhere.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As with most mysteries, however, randomness had nothing to do with it. We soon learned from the chef-owner of the restaurant, Jean Pierre, that St. Exupéry was an airmail pilot. His route took him from Marseilles to-- guess where-- Ouarzazate, Morocco. Though the mystery of its placement had been solved, that didn't make it any less marvelous in my eyes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As we sat down to our lunch we were offered what most of us considered a minor miracle in Morocco-- a cocktail. We lubricated ourselves with gin and tonics and Americanos that were cooled with something even more miraculous, given our location-- fresh ice. In an area known as The Land of 10,000 Casbahs, I felt as if I had found just the right, need-specific oasis out of the other possible 9,999.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/617449084303.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/617449084303-150x150.jpg\" alt=\"Behold the ice\" title=\"Behold the ice\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-15804\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And while there was indeed tagine offered by Chef Jean Pierre, it was not of the customary chicken or lamb, but fresh camel. I was hoping one of my friends would order it so that I might try it and be able to honestly say that I had now ridden, smoked, worn, and eaten camel within the space of one week. I would have ordered it myself, but there was something else on the menu that held my attention:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bastilla. Real bastilla made with real Moroccan pigeon. Of course, I thought that the pigeons caught and prepared for my meal might very well have been from some other country and merely had the misfortune of landing in the wrong spot at the wrong time, but I let that go. I was about to eat them baked with almonds, spices, and eggs into the flaky pastry of my favorite Moroccan dish of all time. And in Morocco, of all places, too. I longed to nearly suffocate myself under it's heavy layer of powdered sugar and cinnamon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As we ate, I noticed one of the drawings from The Little Prince that hung across from me on the wall:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/Not-a-Hat.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/Not-a-Hat-300x235.jpg\" alt=\"Not a Hat\" title=\"Not a Hat\" width=\"300\" height=\"235\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-15805\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By the end of the meal, I knew exactly how that serpent boa felt after consuming an elephant. We gorged ourselves that afternoon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We ate and drank and laughed. We toasted Summer, the Southern California chick who showed us more than our brains could ever process, who mothered us and kicked our asses, taught us how to say \"No!\" to the annoying street children who were always trying to sell us packets of facial tissue, and gave us an absolutely unforgettable experience.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/Summer-and-Crew1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/Summer-and-Crew1-300x225.jpg\" alt=\"Summer and Crew\" title=\"Summer and Crew\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-15810\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, \u003cem>shukran\u003c/em>, Summer. Thank you very, very much. You were the nicest, most unexpected gift of all.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bastilla\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/Slice-of-Bastilla.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/Slice-of-Bastilla-210x300.jpg\" alt=\"Slice of Bastilla\" title=\"Slice of Bastilla\" width=\"210\" height=\"300\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-15807\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To the rest of you, I say \u003cem>bessah'ha\u003c/em>, or \"to your health.\" Eat up, \u003cem>habibi\u003c/em>. The preparation of this dish is time consuming, but nonetheless simple to prepare. I couldn't find any fresh pigeon here in San Francisco willing to give up the ghost for me, as it were. Not that I'd want any of the locals to-- they all look as though they could use a trip to Lourdes. Chicken works (almost) as well. Give it a shot if you have the time and have your own Bastilla Day celebration.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are a multitude of variations on the bastilla recipe. This happens to be one that I have culled from several different sources. As long as you've got chicken (or pigeon), turmeric, cinnamon, almonds, egg, and phyllo (Warqa is the dough traditionally used. Good luck finding it, however), you can most likely get away with calling it bastilla.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Serves 6 to 8\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6 to 7 chicken thighs, bone and skin on\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 onion, finely chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon ground ginger\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon turmeric\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A good pinch of saffron\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cinnamon sticks\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>About 1 1/2 cups water\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 whole eggs\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup currants, soaked in orange blossom water\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoons orange blossom water\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup slivered almonds\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons butter\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 box of phyllo pastry (because you will invariable rip several sheet to shreds if you're anything like me.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Powdered sugar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Powdered cinnamon\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 egg lightly beaten with about a teaspoon of water (for egg wash)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. In a medium-sized Dutch oven (historically, the Dutch have had no significant political or economic interest in Morocco, so this is a good, neutral vessel), heat olive oil and brown the chicken thighs in two batches over medium high heat. Remove chicken and add onions to cook briefly (but do not brown). Return all of the chicken to your pot, covering the onions. Add enough water to the pot to nearly cover about 3/4 of the chicken (we're braising here, not boiling), then add the cinnamon sticks, powdered ginger, turmeric, and saffron. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to a gentle simmer. Cover and cook for about 45 minutes, periodically rotating the chicken in the liquid.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. When the chicken is tender enough to separate easily from the bone with a fork, remove and set aside, let cool and shred the meat. Remove cinnamon sticks and discard. Look at your fragrant, onion and chicken fat-dotten liquid. Smell it. There is no reason to do so other than the fact that it just smells really good.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Take your three eggs and beat them. Not as harshly as if they had, say, committed adultery, but more roughly than if they had simply snuck a bag of Cheetos before sundown at Ramadan. Gently scramble the eggs with about 1/3 cup of the fragrant chicken liquid. Cook until curdled, but not dry, since they will continue to cook when baked into the pie. Set aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Preheat your oven to 350ºF.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5. Melt 2 tablespoons butter in a medium sauté pan. Add almonds and fry them until golden brown. Remove, pat with paper towels and toss with a tablespoon of powdered sugar, about 1/4 teaspoon of powdered cinnamon, and 1 teaspoon of orange blossom water. Can you guess what you're going to do with these next? That's correct-- you set them aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6. Melt the remaining 1/2 cup of butter. generously brush the inside of a 9\" round baking dish or sauté pan. Open box of phyllo pastry and place sheets between two lightly dampened (clean) kitchen towels to prevent their drying out. Fold one sheet of phyllo in half and center it in the pan. Let the overhang do just that-- overhang the sides of the baking dish. Brush with butter. Take another sheet that is folded in half and place it at a 90º angle. Brush with more butter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>7. Add the shredded chicken to the pan, making a good, solid bottom layer. Sprinkle the orange blossom water-soaked currants over the chicken. Next, add the lightly scrambled eggs to cover the chicken, then add the almonds to create a final layer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/Open-Bastilla.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/Open-Bastilla-150x150.jpg\" alt=\"Open Bastilla\" title=\"Open Bastilla\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-15821\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>8. Fold the overhanging sides of phyllo dough over the filling and brush with butter. Add one more sheet of folded-in-half phyllo over the top. Tuck in the edges to create a smooth top. Brush with butter and then brush that with egg wash.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/Unbaked-Bastilla.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/Unbaked-Bastilla-150x150.jpg\" alt=\"Unbaked Bastilla\" title=\"Unbaked Bastilla\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-15820\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>9. Bake for approximately 25 minutes, or until the pastry has turned golden brown. Remove from the oven. Generously dust with powdered sugar-- enough so that one might choke and cough is one stuck one's nose close enough to the pastry to inhale. Decorate in the geometric pattern of your choice with powdered cinnamon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>10. Serve to people who will look at you and say, \"You \u003cem>made\u003c/em> this? Wow, I didn't know anyone actually ever \u003cem>made\u003c/em> this.\" If there is someone at your table who tells you he's not really into the sweet-and-savory combination, allow him to remain at your table because you wouldn't dream of insulting a guest in your home, but make a mental note to never invite him over again.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Bastilla. Real bastilla made with real Moroccan pigeon. Of course, I thought that the pigeons caught and prepared for my meal might very well have been from some other country and merely had the misfortune of landing in the wrong spot at the wrong time, but I let that go. I was about to eat them baked with almonds, spices, and eggs into the flaky pastry of my favorite Moroccan dish of all time. And in Morocco, of all places, too. I longed to nearly suffocate myself under it's heavy layer of powdered sugar and cinnamon.\r\n",
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"description": "Bastilla. Real bastilla made with real Moroccan pigeon. Of course, I thought that the pigeons caught and prepared for my meal might very well have been from some other country and merely had the misfortune of landing in the wrong spot at the wrong time, but I let that go. I was about to eat them baked with almonds, spices, and eggs into the flaky pastry of my favorite Moroccan dish of all time. And in Morocco, of all places, too. I longed to nearly suffocate myself under it's heavy layer of powdered sugar and cinnamon.\r\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/bastilla.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/bastilla.jpg\" alt=\"bastilla\" title=\"bastilla\" width=\"233\" height=\"350\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-15790\">\u003c/a>I was confused by Morocco before I even left the plane. Looking down at its Mediterranean coastline after a stretch of late-Winter rains, I turned to the friend sitting next to me and said with more than a little disbelief:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's \u003cem>green\u003c/em>. Is this normal? I didn't think it would be this... \u003cem>green\u003c/em>.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I had always imagined Morocco clad in the colors of sand and dust. I'd allowed for certain man-made outbursts of color-- the blood red of the flag, the ornate vibrancy of their pottery and woven goods, but that green caught me completely by surprise. It was like some sort of unexpected welcome gift.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Though exhausted and thoroughly disoriented by travel, I was excited by the prospect of spending the next three weeks in a country about which I knew precious little and, after a good night's sleep, I couldn't wait to find out what other surprises Morocco would show me.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That is, of course, if the Customs official would let me into the damned country. In filling out the line that read \"occupation,\" I wrote \"waiter\" in what I thought was clear block printing. The man who held the key to my entrance-- the passport stamp-- misread my job. It was as though The Spellbinder from \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z3y_H3SaoAY&feature=fw\">The Adventures of Letterman\u003c/a> had changed the \"a\" in \"waiter\" to an \"r.\" The official scrutinized me.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You are a \u003cem>writer\u003c/em>? Do you plan to write of your visit to Morocco?\" When I told him that I was a waiter, not a writer, and that I did not plan on writing about his country, he seemed skeptical.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You are a writer who says he will not \u003cem>write\u003c/em>?\" He then muttered something in French to his partner, who was now looking at my passport. Oh, yes, I thought. French! I can explain to them my situation in French and clear things right up.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Je n'suis pas ecrivain,\" I told them. And then I couldn't remember the word for \"waiter\" in French. \"Moi, je... je... j'habite au restaurant.\" In my bad, nervous French, I told them that I lived in a restaurant, which wasn't too far from the truth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Whether they believed me or felt sorry for me or both, I will never know. Once I promised them that I was in their country strictly for pleasure and that I would not write about it (or them), the man with the little stamp finally inked my passport.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So here I am, four years later, writing about it. Did they know something I didn't?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As my friends and I piled into the bus that would take us to our hotel, we began to wonder aloud what our guide would be like. We had bought out a tour group excursion and would have said guide all to ourselves. How old was he? What would he look like? Would he be hot? When we got to the hotel, we were all looking for our idealized tour guide-- an attractive 30-something Moroccan man.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And then I noticed that the only person hanging about outside the place was a young blonde woman with a clip board. She introduced herself to us. Her name was Summer. The disappointment of my little group was palpable.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Her name is \u003cem>Summer\u003c/em>? You've got to be (expletive) kidding me,\" whispered one friend. She was 25, from Southern California. This was her first time leading a group of tourists. It was just her luck to get handed a group of smart-assed gay men ranging in age from 34 to 50.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I knew she was going to be eaten alive. I felt sorry for her. She whisked us off to dinner and a little orientation. We followed, hungry, tired and very skeptical.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When we sat down to dinner, she began the orientation. One of my friends muttered some bitchy remark which she was more than likely meant to overhear. And then, with barely a turn of her head, she countered the attack with something that not only cut the man down to size, but had him laughing at the same time (I wish to g-d I could remember what it was). The mood of the entire room changed in an instant. Within an hour of meeting her, she had all of us eating out of the palm of her hand, which isn't too far from the literal truth, since one eats nearly everything with one's hands in Morocco.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We adored her.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/Flying-Teeth1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/Flying-Teeth1-150x150.jpg\" alt=\"Flying Teeth\" title=\"Flying Teeth\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-15794\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Over the course of those three weeks, she hauled us from souk to souk in cities like Meknes and Fes and Rabat; showed us Roman ruins and attack geese in the still-green hills of Voulibilis; organized a birthday party with magic tricks and Berber musicians in the arid plains of Midelt; allowed us to stop play in the snow of the Atlas Mountains; took us hiking in the Todra Gorge; had us ride mangy, horny camels into the Sahara desert to sleep in the dunes under a full moon; and had us doing about a thousand other fascinating things that would require too much time to write about today.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/Waters-Seller-in-Rabat.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/Waters-Seller-in-Rabat-150x150.jpg\" alt=\"Waters Seller in Rabat\" title=\"Waters Seller in Rabat\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-15797\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/Sahara-Dunes.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/Sahara-Dunes-150x150.jpg\" alt=\"Sahara Dunes\" title=\"Sahara Dunes\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-15798\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/Camel-Head.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/Camel-Head-150x150.jpg\" alt=\"Camel Head\" title=\"Camel Head\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-15799\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/600419084303.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/600419084303-150x150.jpg\" alt=\"Michael of the Sahara\" title=\"Michael of the Sahara\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-15800\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We were overwhelmed, exhausted, and very, very happy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My only complaint was that every activity seemed to be fueled by the consumption of tagine, kefta, and \"Berber whiskey\"-- otherwise known as mint tea. As over-stimulating as our trip had been, the food had become monotonous-- a hand-washing, tea-pouring, couscous-eating bore.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Until, that is, we entered the town of Ouarzazate where we embarked upon one of the most delightful and surreal lunches in my memory. If one considers that Ouarzazate is the center of the Moroccan film industry, this shouldn't come as much of a surprise. A city whose Atlas Film Studios has added footage to such films as \u003cem>Lawrence of Arabia\u003c/em>, \u003cem>Gladiator\u003c/em>, and \u003cem>Asterix & Obelix: Mission Cleopatra\u003c/em> makes fantasy it's primary business. But our lunch had very little to do with the movies.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Instead, it had everything to do with a children's book.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I saw a little French place down the road the last time I was here,\" Summer said,\" but it wouldn't be included in the tour price-- it will cost extra.\" A \"civilized\" luncheon at a French restaurant in the middle of the High Atlas plateau after days of hiking and sleeping on camel blankets seem appealing. We all agreed that we would pay for Summer's meal, too. We'd pay for anything-- especially if there was wine involved.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There was.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/St.-Exupery.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/St.-Exupery-300x259.jpg\" alt=\"St. Exupery\" title=\"St. Exupery\" width=\"300\" height=\"259\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-15803\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The \"little French place\" Summer had in mind was a shrine to Antoine de St. Exupéry, author of The Little Prince. My brother had sent me a copy of the book in the original French when I was a boy, hoping that I would someday be able to read it as well has he could. I never could keep up with him. However, that wasn't going to stop me from enjoying my lunch. I marveled at the randomness of finding such a treasure in a place that-- though very Big City to me after spending several days in the wildness of North Africa-- still felt a bit like the middle of nowhere.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As with most mysteries, however, randomness had nothing to do with it. We soon learned from the chef-owner of the restaurant, Jean Pierre, that St. Exupéry was an airmail pilot. His route took him from Marseilles to-- guess where-- Ouarzazate, Morocco. Though the mystery of its placement had been solved, that didn't make it any less marvelous in my eyes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As we sat down to our lunch we were offered what most of us considered a minor miracle in Morocco-- a cocktail. We lubricated ourselves with gin and tonics and Americanos that were cooled with something even more miraculous, given our location-- fresh ice. In an area known as The Land of 10,000 Casbahs, I felt as if I had found just the right, need-specific oasis out of the other possible 9,999.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/617449084303.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/617449084303-150x150.jpg\" alt=\"Behold the ice\" title=\"Behold the ice\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-15804\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And while there was indeed tagine offered by Chef Jean Pierre, it was not of the customary chicken or lamb, but fresh camel. I was hoping one of my friends would order it so that I might try it and be able to honestly say that I had now ridden, smoked, worn, and eaten camel within the space of one week. I would have ordered it myself, but there was something else on the menu that held my attention:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bastilla. Real bastilla made with real Moroccan pigeon. Of course, I thought that the pigeons caught and prepared for my meal might very well have been from some other country and merely had the misfortune of landing in the wrong spot at the wrong time, but I let that go. I was about to eat them baked with almonds, spices, and eggs into the flaky pastry of my favorite Moroccan dish of all time. And in Morocco, of all places, too. I longed to nearly suffocate myself under it's heavy layer of powdered sugar and cinnamon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As we ate, I noticed one of the drawings from The Little Prince that hung across from me on the wall:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/Not-a-Hat.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/Not-a-Hat-300x235.jpg\" alt=\"Not a Hat\" title=\"Not a Hat\" width=\"300\" height=\"235\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-15805\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By the end of the meal, I knew exactly how that serpent boa felt after consuming an elephant. We gorged ourselves that afternoon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We ate and drank and laughed. We toasted Summer, the Southern California chick who showed us more than our brains could ever process, who mothered us and kicked our asses, taught us how to say \"No!\" to the annoying street children who were always trying to sell us packets of facial tissue, and gave us an absolutely unforgettable experience.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/Summer-and-Crew1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/Summer-and-Crew1-300x225.jpg\" alt=\"Summer and Crew\" title=\"Summer and Crew\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-15810\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, \u003cem>shukran\u003c/em>, Summer. Thank you very, very much. You were the nicest, most unexpected gift of all.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bastilla\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/Slice-of-Bastilla.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/Slice-of-Bastilla-210x300.jpg\" alt=\"Slice of Bastilla\" title=\"Slice of Bastilla\" width=\"210\" height=\"300\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-15807\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To the rest of you, I say \u003cem>bessah'ha\u003c/em>, or \"to your health.\" Eat up, \u003cem>habibi\u003c/em>. The preparation of this dish is time consuming, but nonetheless simple to prepare. I couldn't find any fresh pigeon here in San Francisco willing to give up the ghost for me, as it were. Not that I'd want any of the locals to-- they all look as though they could use a trip to Lourdes. Chicken works (almost) as well. Give it a shot if you have the time and have your own Bastilla Day celebration.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are a multitude of variations on the bastilla recipe. This happens to be one that I have culled from several different sources. As long as you've got chicken (or pigeon), turmeric, cinnamon, almonds, egg, and phyllo (Warqa is the dough traditionally used. Good luck finding it, however), you can most likely get away with calling it bastilla.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Serves 6 to 8\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6 to 7 chicken thighs, bone and skin on\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 onion, finely chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon ground ginger\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon turmeric\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A good pinch of saffron\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cinnamon sticks\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>About 1 1/2 cups water\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 whole eggs\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup currants, soaked in orange blossom water\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoons orange blossom water\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup slivered almonds\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons butter\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 box of phyllo pastry (because you will invariable rip several sheet to shreds if you're anything like me.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Powdered sugar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Powdered cinnamon\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 egg lightly beaten with about a teaspoon of water (for egg wash)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. In a medium-sized Dutch oven (historically, the Dutch have had no significant political or economic interest in Morocco, so this is a good, neutral vessel), heat olive oil and brown the chicken thighs in two batches over medium high heat. Remove chicken and add onions to cook briefly (but do not brown). Return all of the chicken to your pot, covering the onions. Add enough water to the pot to nearly cover about 3/4 of the chicken (we're braising here, not boiling), then add the cinnamon sticks, powdered ginger, turmeric, and saffron. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to a gentle simmer. Cover and cook for about 45 minutes, periodically rotating the chicken in the liquid.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. When the chicken is tender enough to separate easily from the bone with a fork, remove and set aside, let cool and shred the meat. Remove cinnamon sticks and discard. Look at your fragrant, onion and chicken fat-dotten liquid. Smell it. There is no reason to do so other than the fact that it just smells really good.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Take your three eggs and beat them. Not as harshly as if they had, say, committed adultery, but more roughly than if they had simply snuck a bag of Cheetos before sundown at Ramadan. Gently scramble the eggs with about 1/3 cup of the fragrant chicken liquid. Cook until curdled, but not dry, since they will continue to cook when baked into the pie. Set aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Preheat your oven to 350ºF.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5. Melt 2 tablespoons butter in a medium sauté pan. Add almonds and fry them until golden brown. Remove, pat with paper towels and toss with a tablespoon of powdered sugar, about 1/4 teaspoon of powdered cinnamon, and 1 teaspoon of orange blossom water. Can you guess what you're going to do with these next? That's correct-- you set them aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6. Melt the remaining 1/2 cup of butter. generously brush the inside of a 9\" round baking dish or sauté pan. Open box of phyllo pastry and place sheets between two lightly dampened (clean) kitchen towels to prevent their drying out. Fold one sheet of phyllo in half and center it in the pan. Let the overhang do just that-- overhang the sides of the baking dish. Brush with butter. Take another sheet that is folded in half and place it at a 90º angle. Brush with more butter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>7. Add the shredded chicken to the pan, making a good, solid bottom layer. Sprinkle the orange blossom water-soaked currants over the chicken. Next, add the lightly scrambled eggs to cover the chicken, then add the almonds to create a final layer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/Open-Bastilla.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/Open-Bastilla-150x150.jpg\" alt=\"Open Bastilla\" title=\"Open Bastilla\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-15821\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>8. Fold the overhanging sides of phyllo dough over the filling and brush with butter. Add one more sheet of folded-in-half phyllo over the top. Tuck in the edges to create a smooth top. Brush with butter and then brush that with egg wash.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/Unbaked-Bastilla.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/Unbaked-Bastilla-150x150.jpg\" alt=\"Unbaked Bastilla\" title=\"Unbaked Bastilla\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-15820\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>9. Bake for approximately 25 minutes, or until the pastry has turned golden brown. Remove from the oven. Generously dust with powdered sugar-- enough so that one might choke and cough is one stuck one's nose close enough to the pastry to inhale. Decorate in the geometric pattern of your choice with powdered cinnamon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>10. Serve to people who will look at you and say, \"You \u003cem>made\u003c/em> this? Wow, I didn't know anyone actually ever \u003cem>made\u003c/em> this.\" If there is someone at your table who tells you he's not really into the sweet-and-savory combination, allow him to remain at your table because you wouldn't dream of insulting a guest in your home, but make a mental note to never invite him over again.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Apple Glazed Baby Back Ribs",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/apple-glazed-baby-back-ribs.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/apple-glazed-baby-back-ribs.jpg\" alt=\"apple glazed baby back ribs\" title=\"apple glazed baby back ribs\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15725\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I recently visited the Anderson Valley, which is one of my favorite places in Northern California. In addition to wine tasting at Navarro Vineyards, \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2008/07/17/wine-tasting-with-kids/\">which continues to be a very family-friendly experience\u003c/a> with their fresh grape juice tastings for kids and lovely outdoor area, we also stopped off at \u003ca href=\"http://www.philoapplefarm.com/\">The Apple Farm\u003c/a>. If you haven’t visited The Apple Farm, it’s worth a trip in its own right. Set next door to a redwood grove and above the Navarro River, The Apple Farm is a little oasis full of apple trees (of course), friendly dogs who mosey over for a pat and then go on their merry way, and a mouth-watering selection of drinks and condiments. From apple balsamic vinegar and syrup, to hard apple cider and apple juice, The Apple Farm lives up to its name. But life is not all a bowl of apples in Philo. They also have a selection of fruit chutneys using blood oranges, figs, peaches and various other fruits that are worth checking out. And, if you have a night or two to spare, you can reserve one of their peaceful cabins or take part in a cooking lesson.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/apple-farm-stand.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/apple-farm-stand.jpg\" alt=\"apple farm stand\" title=\"apple farm stand\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15727\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After visiting the farm and arriving home with a box full of apple products and chutneys, I knew I had to immediately try them. Pondering what would go best with apple balsamic vinegar and syrup, I decided to make some baby back ribs. Because I love the taste of pork with apples, I used only a few ingredients in my recipe. First I made a rub of ground fennel, coriander, salt and pepper. I then slow roasted the ribs for an hour and half, which made them fall-off-the-bone tender. It was now time to show off my new apple products. I started by brushing on a healthy portion of balsamic vinegar and then added a second layer of apple syrup for extra sweetness and to also thicken the glaze. After setting the racks under the broiler for about 3 minutes to caramelize a crust on the top of the ribs, we were ready to eat. Because it was July and figs were in season, I chose to serve our ribs with some that were sliced, brushed with apple balsamic vinegar, and broiled. But if figs weren't in season, I would happily serve with baked apples.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After sprinkling with some extra apple syrup, the ribs had a lovely slow-roasted pork flavor that was both sweet and tangy. We served them as an appetizer for a dinner party, but after both kids and adults expectantly asked for more, I realized that next time, I need to make a double or triple batch and serve as the main course. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you don't have apple balsamic vinegar or syrup on hand, you could substitute regular balsamic vinegar and maple syrup, which I think would taste fantastic. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/apple-balsamic-vinegar.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/apple-balsamic-vinegar.jpg\" alt=\"apple balsamic vinegar\" title=\"apple balsamic vinegar\" width=\"300\" height=\"400\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15726\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.philoapplefarm.com/\">The Apple Farm \u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n18501 Greenwood Road\u003cbr>\nPhilo, CA 95455\u003cbr>\n(707) 895-2333\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>\u003cbr>\nApple Glazed Baby Back Ribs\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n2 racks pork baby back ribs (trimmed of excess fat)\u003cbr>\n1 Tbsp fennel seeds\u003cbr>\n1 Tbsp coriander seeds\u003cbr>\n1/2 tsp salt\u003cbr>\n1/4 tsp cracked pepper\u003cbr>\n1/2 cup apple balsamic vinegar (can use regular balsamic vinegar)\u003cbr>\n1/2 cup apple syrup (can use maple syrup or apple jam or butter)\u003cbr>\nEnough olive oil to coat the cooking pans\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Note:\u003c/strong> If you have some of the elusive and incredibly expensive fennel pollen on hand, use that instead of the ground fennel. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1. In a spice or coffee grinder, pulse fennel and coriander seeds until they are somewhere between roughly chopped and a smooth powder. Mix chopped seeds with salt and pepper. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Rub ground seeds, salt and pepper into the ribs and then refrigerate for at least two hours or up to one day covered in a pan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Preheat oven to 325 degrees and place each rack on a separate baking sheet that has been drizzled with olive oil. Tightly cover with foil and then set ribs in oven to bake for 1 1/2 hours.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Remove ribs from oven and coat first with the balsamic vinegar and then with the syrup, reserving 2 Tbsp of each.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5. If grilling, set ribs on the grill on high heat for five minutes or until the glaze caramelizes. If broiling, set ribs under broiler for 3-5 minutes or until glaze caramelizes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6. Lightly sprinkle the reserved syrup and vinegar and serve with grilled figs or baked apples.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Pondering what would go best with apple balsamic vinegar and syrup, I decided to make some slow roasted baby back ribs. Because I love the taste of pork with apples, I used the fewest ingredients possible, adding a rub of only ground fennel and coriander (along with salt and pepper). After slow roasting for an hour and half, the ribs were fall-off-the-bone tender. I then brushed on the balsamic vinegar for a glaze and added a second layer of apple syrup for extra sweetness. ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/apple-glazed-baby-back-ribs.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/apple-glazed-baby-back-ribs.jpg\" alt=\"apple glazed baby back ribs\" title=\"apple glazed baby back ribs\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15725\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I recently visited the Anderson Valley, which is one of my favorite places in Northern California. In addition to wine tasting at Navarro Vineyards, \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2008/07/17/wine-tasting-with-kids/\">which continues to be a very family-friendly experience\u003c/a> with their fresh grape juice tastings for kids and lovely outdoor area, we also stopped off at \u003ca href=\"http://www.philoapplefarm.com/\">The Apple Farm\u003c/a>. If you haven’t visited The Apple Farm, it’s worth a trip in its own right. Set next door to a redwood grove and above the Navarro River, The Apple Farm is a little oasis full of apple trees (of course), friendly dogs who mosey over for a pat and then go on their merry way, and a mouth-watering selection of drinks and condiments. From apple balsamic vinegar and syrup, to hard apple cider and apple juice, The Apple Farm lives up to its name. But life is not all a bowl of apples in Philo. They also have a selection of fruit chutneys using blood oranges, figs, peaches and various other fruits that are worth checking out. And, if you have a night or two to spare, you can reserve one of their peaceful cabins or take part in a cooking lesson.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/apple-farm-stand.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/apple-farm-stand.jpg\" alt=\"apple farm stand\" title=\"apple farm stand\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15727\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After visiting the farm and arriving home with a box full of apple products and chutneys, I knew I had to immediately try them. Pondering what would go best with apple balsamic vinegar and syrup, I decided to make some baby back ribs. Because I love the taste of pork with apples, I used only a few ingredients in my recipe. First I made a rub of ground fennel, coriander, salt and pepper. I then slow roasted the ribs for an hour and half, which made them fall-off-the-bone tender. It was now time to show off my new apple products. I started by brushing on a healthy portion of balsamic vinegar and then added a second layer of apple syrup for extra sweetness and to also thicken the glaze. After setting the racks under the broiler for about 3 minutes to caramelize a crust on the top of the ribs, we were ready to eat. Because it was July and figs were in season, I chose to serve our ribs with some that were sliced, brushed with apple balsamic vinegar, and broiled. But if figs weren't in season, I would happily serve with baked apples.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After sprinkling with some extra apple syrup, the ribs had a lovely slow-roasted pork flavor that was both sweet and tangy. We served them as an appetizer for a dinner party, but after both kids and adults expectantly asked for more, I realized that next time, I need to make a double or triple batch and serve as the main course. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you don't have apple balsamic vinegar or syrup on hand, you could substitute regular balsamic vinegar and maple syrup, which I think would taste fantastic. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/apple-balsamic-vinegar.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/apple-balsamic-vinegar.jpg\" alt=\"apple balsamic vinegar\" title=\"apple balsamic vinegar\" width=\"300\" height=\"400\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15726\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.philoapplefarm.com/\">The Apple Farm \u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n18501 Greenwood Road\u003cbr>\nPhilo, CA 95455\u003cbr>\n(707) 895-2333\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>\u003cbr>\nApple Glazed Baby Back Ribs\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n2 racks pork baby back ribs (trimmed of excess fat)\u003cbr>\n1 Tbsp fennel seeds\u003cbr>\n1 Tbsp coriander seeds\u003cbr>\n1/2 tsp salt\u003cbr>\n1/4 tsp cracked pepper\u003cbr>\n1/2 cup apple balsamic vinegar (can use regular balsamic vinegar)\u003cbr>\n1/2 cup apple syrup (can use maple syrup or apple jam or butter)\u003cbr>\nEnough olive oil to coat the cooking pans\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Note:\u003c/strong> If you have some of the elusive and incredibly expensive fennel pollen on hand, use that instead of the ground fennel. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1. In a spice or coffee grinder, pulse fennel and coriander seeds until they are somewhere between roughly chopped and a smooth powder. Mix chopped seeds with salt and pepper. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Rub ground seeds, salt and pepper into the ribs and then refrigerate for at least two hours or up to one day covered in a pan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Preheat oven to 325 degrees and place each rack on a separate baking sheet that has been drizzled with olive oil. Tightly cover with foil and then set ribs in oven to bake for 1 1/2 hours.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Remove ribs from oven and coat first with the balsamic vinegar and then with the syrup, reserving 2 Tbsp of each.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5. If grilling, set ribs on the grill on high heat for five minutes or until the glaze caramelizes. If broiling, set ribs under broiler for 3-5 minutes or until glaze caramelizes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6. Lightly sprinkle the reserved syrup and vinegar and serve with grilled figs or baked apples.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/IMG_0358.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/IMG_0358.jpg\" alt=\"Berries n’ Cream with Meringue and Pistachios\" title=\"Berries n’ Cream with Meringue and Pistachios\" width=\"333\" height=\"499\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15657\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Berries n' Cream with Meringue and Pistachios\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Fresh fruit\u003c/strong>, \u003cstrong>whipped cream\u003c/strong>, who doesn't love that? Add some crunchy \u003cstrong>pistachios\u003c/strong> for a little salty nuttiness, and a surprising crumble of airy \u003cstrong>meringues\u003c/strong>, and you've got one winning dessert. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is one of my favorite desserts to make, hands down, especially in the summertime when fruit is at its best. It's totally no-fuss, requires zero time by the stove, and is a breeze to whip together quickly for a weeknight treat or party. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/Blueberries.jpg\" alt=\"Blueberries\" title=\"Blueberries\" width=\"500\" height=\"334\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15655\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Beautiful blueberries\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mix and match berries, or even peaches would be delicious. I'm obsessed with blueberries, so I've been loading up on them while they're in season. Simply sprinkle a little sugar on them, add some lemon juice and zest for a subtle layer of bright, citrus flavor, and let the berries sit for a bit to macerate and get juicy. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/Picture3.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/Picture3.jpg\" alt=\"Cooking with the girls\" title=\"Cooking with the girls\" width=\"500\" height=\"250\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15658\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Photo Credit: Kai Yu\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then, generously spoon over some sweetened \u003cstrong>whipped cream\u003c/strong>, crush a few \u003cstrong>meringue cookies\u003c/strong> on top, and finish off with a handful of chopped \u003cstrong>pistachios\u003c/strong>. I adore the combo of the whipped cream and the meringues. The meringues add a delicate texture that is totally unexpected, and gives the dessert just a kiss of extra sweetness. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/IMG_0350.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/IMG_0350.jpg\" alt=\"Berries n’ Cream with Meringue and Pistachios\" title=\"Berries n’ Cream with Meringue and Pistachios\" width=\"500\" height=\"334\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15656\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>A Big Bowl of Yum!\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Berries n' Cream with Meringue and Pistachios\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Serves:\u003c/strong> 2\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1 pint fresh blueberries\u003cbr>\n1 tablespoon granulated sugar\u003cbr>\nZest of 1 lemon\u003cbr>\nJuice of half a lemon\u003cbr>\n½ cup whipping cream\u003cbr>\n½ teaspoon vanilla\u003cbr>\n1-2 tablespoons powdered sugar (to taste)\u003cbr>\n2 meringue cookies, coarsely crumbled (Trader Joe's makes great vanilla meringues with tiny chocolate chips)\u003cbr>\n¼ cup shelled pistachios, coarsely chopped \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1.\tToss the berries, 1 tablespoon granulated sugar, lemon zest and juice in a medium bowl. Let stand until juices form, tossing occasionally, about 30 minutes.\u003cbr>\n2.\tMeanwhile, using an electric mixer, whip the cream until soft peaks form. Mix in the vanilla and powdered sugar.\u003cbr>\n3.\tDivide the berries into bowls or parfait glasses. Spoon the whipped cream on top. Crumble the meringue cookies over the cream, and sprinkle with pistachios. \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Fresh fruit, whipped cream, who doesn't love that? Add some crunchy pistachios for a little salty nuttiness, and a surprising crumble of airy meringues, and you've got one winning dessert. ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/IMG_0358.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/IMG_0358.jpg\" alt=\"Berries n’ Cream with Meringue and Pistachios\" title=\"Berries n’ Cream with Meringue and Pistachios\" width=\"333\" height=\"499\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15657\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Berries n' Cream with Meringue and Pistachios\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Fresh fruit\u003c/strong>, \u003cstrong>whipped cream\u003c/strong>, who doesn't love that? Add some crunchy \u003cstrong>pistachios\u003c/strong> for a little salty nuttiness, and a surprising crumble of airy \u003cstrong>meringues\u003c/strong>, and you've got one winning dessert. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is one of my favorite desserts to make, hands down, especially in the summertime when fruit is at its best. It's totally no-fuss, requires zero time by the stove, and is a breeze to whip together quickly for a weeknight treat or party. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/Blueberries.jpg\" alt=\"Blueberries\" title=\"Blueberries\" width=\"500\" height=\"334\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15655\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Beautiful blueberries\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mix and match berries, or even peaches would be delicious. I'm obsessed with blueberries, so I've been loading up on them while they're in season. Simply sprinkle a little sugar on them, add some lemon juice and zest for a subtle layer of bright, citrus flavor, and let the berries sit for a bit to macerate and get juicy. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/Picture3.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/Picture3.jpg\" alt=\"Cooking with the girls\" title=\"Cooking with the girls\" width=\"500\" height=\"250\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15658\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Photo Credit: Kai Yu\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then, generously spoon over some sweetened \u003cstrong>whipped cream\u003c/strong>, crush a few \u003cstrong>meringue cookies\u003c/strong> on top, and finish off with a handful of chopped \u003cstrong>pistachios\u003c/strong>. I adore the combo of the whipped cream and the meringues. The meringues add a delicate texture that is totally unexpected, and gives the dessert just a kiss of extra sweetness. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/IMG_0350.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/08/IMG_0350.jpg\" alt=\"Berries n’ Cream with Meringue and Pistachios\" title=\"Berries n’ Cream with Meringue and Pistachios\" width=\"500\" height=\"334\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15656\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>A Big Bowl of Yum!\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Berries n' Cream with Meringue and Pistachios\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Serves:\u003c/strong> 2\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1 pint fresh blueberries\u003cbr>\n1 tablespoon granulated sugar\u003cbr>\nZest of 1 lemon\u003cbr>\nJuice of half a lemon\u003cbr>\n½ cup whipping cream\u003cbr>\n½ teaspoon vanilla\u003cbr>\n1-2 tablespoons powdered sugar (to taste)\u003cbr>\n2 meringue cookies, coarsely crumbled (Trader Joe's makes great vanilla meringues with tiny chocolate chips)\u003cbr>\n¼ cup shelled pistachios, coarsely chopped \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1.\tToss the berries, 1 tablespoon granulated sugar, lemon zest and juice in a medium bowl. Let stand until juices form, tossing occasionally, about 30 minutes.\u003cbr>\n2.\tMeanwhile, using an electric mixer, whip the cream until soft peaks form. Mix in the vanilla and powdered sugar.\u003cbr>\n3.\tDivide the berries into bowls or parfait glasses. Spoon the whipped cream on top. Crumble the meringue cookies over the cream, and sprinkle with pistachios. \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Marin Sun Farms Tour",
"title": "Marin Sun Farms Tour",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/davechix500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/davechix500.jpg\" alt=\"Dave Evans and chickens\" title=\"Dave Evans and chickens\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15629\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Look at that dung pile!\" said \u003ca href=\"http://www.marinsunfarms.com\">Marin Sun Farms\u003c/a> owner Dave Evans enthusiastically, crouching next to a scratched-over cow pat criss-crossed with chicken tracks. What was a freshly deposited pile of manure yesterday is now almost indistinguishable from the trampled-down grasses around it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And that's exactly Evans' point. It's a sharp contrast with a week-old manure pile we'd seen just a few minutes before, on a section of pasture not yet visited by the farm's mobile chicken trailers. That pile was stiffened and dry, peppered with tiny holes where fly eggs had hatched. But over here, the chickens had done their work, pecking the protein-rich fly larvae out of the heap of digested grasses and scratching the high-nitrogen waste into the soil to feed the grass that will feed the cows that will eventually become the burgers sold at the butcher shop down the road from the ranch. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's a closed-circle grass-farming and ranching system, much like the one espoused by Joel Salatin, the farmer made famous by Michael Pollan's \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0143038583/kqedorg-20\">The Omnivore's Dilemma\u003c/a>. Pollan's book, of course, was the one which pulled locavore living off the blogs and onto the bestseller list. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On a cool, foggy morning in July, a group of about 15 of us had gathered in a gravel-scattered parking lot in front of the farm buildings for a combination talk and walk across the rolling acres that form the center of Marin Sun's network of sustainably-managed, pasture-raised livestock operations. The free tours are held once a month, usually from mid-spring through mid-fall, before the winter rains begin. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Introducing himself, owner Dave Evans launched into a freewheeling oral history of the land where we're standing. It's a topic he knows well: his family has been working this land as dairy and cattle farmers for four generations, since his great-grandfather, once a dairy farmer in Switzerland, moved to California and began raising cattle in West Marin. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Damp, chilly, and fogbound much of the year, the rolling hills of the Point Reyes peninsula weren't worth much as farmland. But they were perfect for growing lush, green grass that stayed green for a lot longer than in the hot inland valleys. Cows raised on Point Reyes grass produced particularly good milk--and thanks to steamships that chugged from Drakes' Estero and Tomales Bay down into San Francisco (later replaced by refrigerated trucks), butter stamped \"PR\" quickly developed a reputation for superior freshness and quality. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Evans' family, like many others on the area's historic lettered system of dairy farms, continued as a dairy farmers until the mid-70s. Then, as milk prices dropped and the dairy industry began to consolidate, Evans' parents switched to beef cattle. Evans was born in 1972, on the original \"H\" ranch owned by his grandfather. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, the land is owned by the National Park Service, as part of the Point Reyes National Seashore established by President Kennedy in 1962. As an acknowledgment of the area's living history, a special pastoral zone was created as part of the federal mandate, allowing descendants of the area's original ranching families to continue to raise livestock. Evans and his relatives lease their land from the Park Service, abiding by an often-complex set of park rules.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/cows500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/cows500.jpg\" alt=\"cows\" title=\"cows\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15631\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The end result? A herd of cows living on perhaps the most scenic pastureland in California, munching their way year-round through an assortment of native and perennial grasses and plants. They're followed by two different sets of chicken trailers: high, tarp-covered nesting boxes for the layers, and low, fenced-in hutches for the meat birds. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/chickens500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/chickens500.jpg\" alt=\"chickens\" title=\"chickens\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15633\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The layers--a mixture of Barred Rocks, Ameraucanas, Brown and Gold Sexlinks, and Rhode Island Reds--are rovers. Watched over by one of the farm's brawny, blase guard dogs, the chickens wander freely in front of their mobile homes, gossiping, pecking, scratching, and wallowing, like a feathered bunch of middle schoolers during recess. The eggs they lay are collected daily. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/chicken-500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/chicken-500.jpg\" alt=\"chickens\" title=\"chickens\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15635\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At dusk, the chickens retreat into the houses to roost, and the doors are locked against predators. The next day, the houses, perched on heavy wooden runners, are hooked up to a truck and moved to a fresh section of pasture. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/meatbirds500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/meatbirds500.jpg\" alt=\"meatbirds\" title=\"meatbirds\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15637\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The meat birds, by contrast, don't have as much interest in the outside world. They prefer to clump together, eating a naturally omnivorous diet of grass, bugs, and grain and yes, fattening up remarkably fast. In just a few months, the birds go from downy yellow chicks peeping under the heat lamps of the brood houses to fully-grown white-feathered birds, ready for the table. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Running a successful livestock operation on the land where he was born and bred is a particular source of satisfaction for Evans. Graduating from Cal Poly with an agricultural business degree, he was already convinced that he knew the best place to work, and it wasn't going to be one of the huge CAFOs in Iowa that came recruiting at the school's job fairs. Instead, he went back to his family's land, working on his father's ranch, then branching out into a fencing company of his own. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Marin Sun started with a few dozen cows grazing on leased property in Nicasio. His initial goal? To market maybe 5 animals a year, exclusively grass-fed. Then Michael Pollan's New York Times Magazine article \"Power Steer\" happened, and millions of people were suddenly shocked by the brutal realities of life and death in the feedlot. \"We'd bought a $5 ad on \u003ca href=\"http://www.eatwild.com\">Eatwild\u003c/a>, the only marketing we were doing at the time. Pollan's article told people to go to Eatwild to find grass-fed beef, and that day our phone rang off the hook.\" The ensuing years, Evans admits, were a blur as the company and the cows grew.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, some 11 years later, Evans is raising his cattle and chickens back on the land where he grew up. Marin Sun cuts, ages, packages, and distributes all its own meat around the Bay Area, to restaurants, grocery stores, two of its own butcher shops (the company recently took over the butcher shop in the Rockridge Market Hall), and a 200+member meat CSA. Everything but the slaughtering (done at a facility in Petaluma) is done in-house, either in space rented at a warehouse along the waterfront in San Francisco or in a warren of small, white-walled rooms hidden behind the butcher shop and cafe in Point Reyes Station. Here, four men stand at a waist-high counter, breaking down primal cuts into retail-ready parts. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Walking into the refrigerated storage room, I was struck not just by the visceral reality of the meat--shelves labeled (and stocked) with goat heads, lamb legs, beef tongues--but by the clean, healthy look and smell of it all. Yes, the room smelled like meat, but it was a pleasing smell. These were animals that had had a healthy life, and it showed. You may not agree with raising or eating animals for food, but if it's going to be done, it should be done right, and here, it is. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Not all of Marin Sun's meat comes from Evans' own ranch. The realities of pasture-raising means that his own animals reach their finished weight only during a particular three-month window each year. \"No restaurant, no supermarket wants to deal with a producer who only has product 3 months out of the year,\" noted Evans.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The answer? Establishing a network of co-producers, ranchers working in a variety of local micro-climates who would raise their livestock on pasture according to Marin Sun protocols. The goats, for example, are raised by Evans' sister, so close by that his own guard dogs often trot over to do a little goat herding, just for fun. Other ranchers raise lamb and sheep, pigs, and cows. More meat raised by Marin Sun protocols means more humane ranching, and more ranchers able to make a living working sustainably. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All well and good, of course, but the proof rests with the plate. Just a few months ago, Marin Sun started serving lunches again at their butcher shop in Point Reyes Station. The menu is brief: three burgers, a couple of salads, and fries, plus beer, wine, and Blue Bottle coffee. You order off a chalkboard at the counter, pay, and then sit at one of the tables covered with (what else?) brown butcher paper. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/burgers500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/burgers500.jpg\" alt=\"burgers and fries\" title=\"burgers and fries\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15627\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The day I visited, the options were a lamb burger topped with Pt Reyes Blue cheese, a beef burger with raw-milk cheddar and house-smoked bacon, and a goat burger topped with caramelized onions and goat cheese. We tried the lamb and the goat, and they were, quite simply, fantastic: juicy and pink inside, full of rich and meaty flavor and served with a fat half-pickle and a fluff of mixed greens. French fries, crisped in pork fat, are for serious meat-lovers only; while the texture is great (crisp outside, fluffed inside), the pork fat makes these some seriously heavyweight fries.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Perusing the meat cases after lunch, I picked out a plump half chicken breast. I felt that now I could read the life story of the chicken in my hand, from its arrival at the farm through its time in the brood houses, its life out in the pastures and then onto the table. I took it home, roasting it simply with lemon and garlic to juicy, brown-skinned perfection and a truly local taste. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>The next Marin Sun Farms tours are scheduled for September 1st and September 22nd at 10 AM. To register and get more information, go to \u003ca href=\"http://www.marinsunfarms.com/about/farm_tours.html\">Marin Sun Farms\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "On a cool, foggy morning in July, a group of about 15 of us gathered in a gravel-scattered parking lot in front of the farm buildings for a combination talk and walk across the rolling acres that form the center of Marin Sun's network of sustainably-managed, pasture-raised livestock operations. The free tours are held once a month, usually from mid-spring through mid-fall, before the winter rains begin. ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/davechix500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/davechix500.jpg\" alt=\"Dave Evans and chickens\" title=\"Dave Evans and chickens\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15629\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Look at that dung pile!\" said \u003ca href=\"http://www.marinsunfarms.com\">Marin Sun Farms\u003c/a> owner Dave Evans enthusiastically, crouching next to a scratched-over cow pat criss-crossed with chicken tracks. What was a freshly deposited pile of manure yesterday is now almost indistinguishable from the trampled-down grasses around it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And that's exactly Evans' point. It's a sharp contrast with a week-old manure pile we'd seen just a few minutes before, on a section of pasture not yet visited by the farm's mobile chicken trailers. That pile was stiffened and dry, peppered with tiny holes where fly eggs had hatched. But over here, the chickens had done their work, pecking the protein-rich fly larvae out of the heap of digested grasses and scratching the high-nitrogen waste into the soil to feed the grass that will feed the cows that will eventually become the burgers sold at the butcher shop down the road from the ranch. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's a closed-circle grass-farming and ranching system, much like the one espoused by Joel Salatin, the farmer made famous by Michael Pollan's \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0143038583/kqedorg-20\">The Omnivore's Dilemma\u003c/a>. Pollan's book, of course, was the one which pulled locavore living off the blogs and onto the bestseller list. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On a cool, foggy morning in July, a group of about 15 of us had gathered in a gravel-scattered parking lot in front of the farm buildings for a combination talk and walk across the rolling acres that form the center of Marin Sun's network of sustainably-managed, pasture-raised livestock operations. The free tours are held once a month, usually from mid-spring through mid-fall, before the winter rains begin. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Introducing himself, owner Dave Evans launched into a freewheeling oral history of the land where we're standing. It's a topic he knows well: his family has been working this land as dairy and cattle farmers for four generations, since his great-grandfather, once a dairy farmer in Switzerland, moved to California and began raising cattle in West Marin. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Damp, chilly, and fogbound much of the year, the rolling hills of the Point Reyes peninsula weren't worth much as farmland. But they were perfect for growing lush, green grass that stayed green for a lot longer than in the hot inland valleys. Cows raised on Point Reyes grass produced particularly good milk--and thanks to steamships that chugged from Drakes' Estero and Tomales Bay down into San Francisco (later replaced by refrigerated trucks), butter stamped \"PR\" quickly developed a reputation for superior freshness and quality. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Evans' family, like many others on the area's historic lettered system of dairy farms, continued as a dairy farmers until the mid-70s. Then, as milk prices dropped and the dairy industry began to consolidate, Evans' parents switched to beef cattle. Evans was born in 1972, on the original \"H\" ranch owned by his grandfather. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, the land is owned by the National Park Service, as part of the Point Reyes National Seashore established by President Kennedy in 1962. As an acknowledgment of the area's living history, a special pastoral zone was created as part of the federal mandate, allowing descendants of the area's original ranching families to continue to raise livestock. Evans and his relatives lease their land from the Park Service, abiding by an often-complex set of park rules.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/cows500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/cows500.jpg\" alt=\"cows\" title=\"cows\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15631\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The end result? A herd of cows living on perhaps the most scenic pastureland in California, munching their way year-round through an assortment of native and perennial grasses and plants. They're followed by two different sets of chicken trailers: high, tarp-covered nesting boxes for the layers, and low, fenced-in hutches for the meat birds. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/chickens500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/chickens500.jpg\" alt=\"chickens\" title=\"chickens\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15633\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The layers--a mixture of Barred Rocks, Ameraucanas, Brown and Gold Sexlinks, and Rhode Island Reds--are rovers. Watched over by one of the farm's brawny, blase guard dogs, the chickens wander freely in front of their mobile homes, gossiping, pecking, scratching, and wallowing, like a feathered bunch of middle schoolers during recess. The eggs they lay are collected daily. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/chicken-500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/chicken-500.jpg\" alt=\"chickens\" title=\"chickens\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15635\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At dusk, the chickens retreat into the houses to roost, and the doors are locked against predators. The next day, the houses, perched on heavy wooden runners, are hooked up to a truck and moved to a fresh section of pasture. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/meatbirds500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/meatbirds500.jpg\" alt=\"meatbirds\" title=\"meatbirds\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15637\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The meat birds, by contrast, don't have as much interest in the outside world. They prefer to clump together, eating a naturally omnivorous diet of grass, bugs, and grain and yes, fattening up remarkably fast. In just a few months, the birds go from downy yellow chicks peeping under the heat lamps of the brood houses to fully-grown white-feathered birds, ready for the table. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Running a successful livestock operation on the land where he was born and bred is a particular source of satisfaction for Evans. Graduating from Cal Poly with an agricultural business degree, he was already convinced that he knew the best place to work, and it wasn't going to be one of the huge CAFOs in Iowa that came recruiting at the school's job fairs. Instead, he went back to his family's land, working on his father's ranch, then branching out into a fencing company of his own. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Marin Sun started with a few dozen cows grazing on leased property in Nicasio. His initial goal? To market maybe 5 animals a year, exclusively grass-fed. Then Michael Pollan's New York Times Magazine article \"Power Steer\" happened, and millions of people were suddenly shocked by the brutal realities of life and death in the feedlot. \"We'd bought a $5 ad on \u003ca href=\"http://www.eatwild.com\">Eatwild\u003c/a>, the only marketing we were doing at the time. Pollan's article told people to go to Eatwild to find grass-fed beef, and that day our phone rang off the hook.\" The ensuing years, Evans admits, were a blur as the company and the cows grew.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, some 11 years later, Evans is raising his cattle and chickens back on the land where he grew up. Marin Sun cuts, ages, packages, and distributes all its own meat around the Bay Area, to restaurants, grocery stores, two of its own butcher shops (the company recently took over the butcher shop in the Rockridge Market Hall), and a 200+member meat CSA. Everything but the slaughtering (done at a facility in Petaluma) is done in-house, either in space rented at a warehouse along the waterfront in San Francisco or in a warren of small, white-walled rooms hidden behind the butcher shop and cafe in Point Reyes Station. Here, four men stand at a waist-high counter, breaking down primal cuts into retail-ready parts. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Walking into the refrigerated storage room, I was struck not just by the visceral reality of the meat--shelves labeled (and stocked) with goat heads, lamb legs, beef tongues--but by the clean, healthy look and smell of it all. Yes, the room smelled like meat, but it was a pleasing smell. These were animals that had had a healthy life, and it showed. You may not agree with raising or eating animals for food, but if it's going to be done, it should be done right, and here, it is. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Not all of Marin Sun's meat comes from Evans' own ranch. The realities of pasture-raising means that his own animals reach their finished weight only during a particular three-month window each year. \"No restaurant, no supermarket wants to deal with a producer who only has product 3 months out of the year,\" noted Evans.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The answer? Establishing a network of co-producers, ranchers working in a variety of local micro-climates who would raise their livestock on pasture according to Marin Sun protocols. The goats, for example, are raised by Evans' sister, so close by that his own guard dogs often trot over to do a little goat herding, just for fun. Other ranchers raise lamb and sheep, pigs, and cows. More meat raised by Marin Sun protocols means more humane ranching, and more ranchers able to make a living working sustainably. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All well and good, of course, but the proof rests with the plate. Just a few months ago, Marin Sun started serving lunches again at their butcher shop in Point Reyes Station. The menu is brief: three burgers, a couple of salads, and fries, plus beer, wine, and Blue Bottle coffee. You order off a chalkboard at the counter, pay, and then sit at one of the tables covered with (what else?) brown butcher paper. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/burgers500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/burgers500.jpg\" alt=\"burgers and fries\" title=\"burgers and fries\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15627\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The day I visited, the options were a lamb burger topped with Pt Reyes Blue cheese, a beef burger with raw-milk cheddar and house-smoked bacon, and a goat burger topped with caramelized onions and goat cheese. We tried the lamb and the goat, and they were, quite simply, fantastic: juicy and pink inside, full of rich and meaty flavor and served with a fat half-pickle and a fluff of mixed greens. French fries, crisped in pork fat, are for serious meat-lovers only; while the texture is great (crisp outside, fluffed inside), the pork fat makes these some seriously heavyweight fries.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Perusing the meat cases after lunch, I picked out a plump half chicken breast. I felt that now I could read the life story of the chicken in my hand, from its arrival at the farm through its time in the brood houses, its life out in the pastures and then onto the table. I took it home, roasting it simply with lemon and garlic to juicy, brown-skinned perfection and a truly local taste. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>The next Marin Sun Farms tours are scheduled for September 1st and September 22nd at 10 AM. To register and get more information, go to \u003ca href=\"http://www.marinsunfarms.com/about/farm_tours.html\">Marin Sun Farms\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"info": "What kind of no sabo word is Hyphenación? For us, it’s about living within a hyphenation. Like being a third-gen Mexican-American from the Texas border now living that Bay Area Chicano life. Like Xorje! Each week we bring together a couple of hyphenated Latinos to talk all about personal life choices: family, careers, relationships, belonging … everything is on the table. ",
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"marketplace": {
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"info": "Our flagship program, helmed by Kai Ryssdal, examines what the day in money delivered, through stories, conversations, newsworthy numbers and more. Updated Monday through Friday at about 3:30 p.m. PT.",
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"masters-of-scale": {
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},
"mindshift": {
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"info": "The MindShift podcast explores the innovations in education that are shaping how kids learn. Hosts Ki Sung and Katrina Schwartz introduce listeners to educators, researchers, parents and students who are developing effective ways to improve how kids learn. We cover topics like how fed-up administrators are developing surprising tactics to deal with classroom disruptions; how listening to podcasts are helping kids develop reading skills; the consequences of overparenting; and why interdisciplinary learning can engage students on all ends of the traditional achievement spectrum. This podcast is part of the MindShift education site, a division of KQED News. KQED is an NPR/PBS member station based in San Francisco. You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>",
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"order": 12
},
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM1NzY0NjAwNDI5",
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"morning-edition": {
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"onourwatch": {
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"tagline": "Deeply-reported investigative journalism",
"info": "For decades, the process for how police police themselves has been inconsistent – if not opaque. In some states, like California, these proceedings were completely hidden. After a new police transparency law unsealed scores of internal affairs files, our reporters set out to examine these cases and the shadow world of police discipline. On Our Watch brings listeners into the rooms where officers are questioned and witnesses are interrogated to find out who this system is really protecting. Is it the officers, or the public they've sworn to serve?",
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"info": "Our weekly podcast explores how the media 'sausage' is made, casts an incisive eye on fluctuations in the marketplace of ideas, and examines threats to the freedom of information and expression in America and abroad. For one hour a week, the show tries to lift the veil from the process of \"making media,\" especially news media, because it's through that lens that we see the world and the world sees us",
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},
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},
"pbs-newshour": {
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},
"perspectives": {
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"order": 14
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"info": "The economy explained. Imagine you could call up a friend and say, Meet me at the bar and tell me what's going on with the economy. Now imagine that's actually a fun evening.",
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"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/planetmoney.jpg",
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"link": "/radio/program/planet-money",
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"politicalbreakdown": {
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"title": "Political Breakdown",
"tagline": "Politics from a personal perspective",
"info": "Political Breakdown is a new series that explores the political intersection of California and the nation. Each week hosts Scott Shafer and Marisa Lagos are joined with a new special guest to unpack politics -- with personality — and offer an insider’s glimpse at how politics happens.",
"airtime": "THU 6:30pm-7pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Political-Breakdown-2024-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
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"order": 5
},
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"possible": {
"id": "possible",
"title": "Possible",
"info": "Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.",
"airtime": "SUN 2pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Possible-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.possible.fm/",
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"source": "Possible"
},
"link": "/radio/program/possible",
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"spotify": "https://open.spotify.com/show/730YpdUSNlMyPQwNnyjp4k"
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},
"pri-the-world": {
"id": "pri-the-world",
"title": "PRI's The World: Latest Edition",
"info": "Each weekday, host Marco Werman and his team of producers bring you the world's most interesting stories in an hour of radio that reminds us just how small our planet really is.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 2pm-3pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/The-World-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
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},
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},
"radiolab": {
"id": "radiolab",
"title": "Radiolab",
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