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"content": "\u003cp>Vegetarians, avert your eyes... Bacon has been \u003ca href=\"http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=jump%20the%20shark\">jumping the shark\u003c/a> since the early \u003ca href=\"http://www.theotherpages.org/poems/cook02.html\">18\u003csup>th\u003c/sup> century\u003c/a>, when Ebenezer Cook complained about the New World's \"homely fair.\" Even then, it would seem, Americans had a predilection for \"Fat, from Bacon fry'd, Or with\u003cem> Molossus\u003c/em> dulcify'd.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60865\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/bacon-new.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-60865\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/bacon-new.jpg\" alt=\"Why won't bacon die? Because it tastes so good. Photo: Rachael Myrow\" width=\"640\" height=\"480\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Why won't bacon die? Because it tastes so good. Photo: Rachael Myrow\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Yes, pundits keep declaring bacon is boring, and therefore, dead. Over. \u003cem>Done\u003c/em>, already. But bacon’s greasy grip on the American consciousness lives on.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As food writer Jason Sheehan of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.seattleweekly.com/voracious/2011/01/bacon_we_have_a_problem_an_inf.php\">Seattle Weekly\u003c/a> put it,\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"Bacon has not merely jumped the shark. Bacon has taken all the sharks, stuffed them with cupcakes, ice cream, sausage, lipstick, alarm clocks and mayonnaise, wrapped them in bacon, deep-fried them, then jumped that. Using a ramp made of bacon.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>In a time when people are cultivating their own yoghurt and milling their own flour, it’s a wonder everybody isn’t making their own bacon, the way Pati Palmer does in Cupertino.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It all started a couple of years ago. Driving her two teenagers around one morning, Palmer heard a KQED Forum segment on \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/a/forum/R201012081000\">Do-It-Yourself projects\u003c/a>, and the guest \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/Hedonia\">Sean Timberlake\u003c/a> from \u003ca href=\"http://www.punkdomestics.com/\">Punk Domestics\u003c/a> piqued her curiosity. Not long after, she was poking around on the group’s web site. “And I just decided ‘I gotta do \u003ca href=\"http://www.punkdomestics.com/category/tags/bacon?page=1\">bacon\u003c/a>.’”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Off she went to \u003ca href=\"http://www.dittmers.com/\">Dittmer's Gourmet Meats & Wurst-Haus\u003c/a> in Los Altos for five pounds of pork belly. The family ate what they could, and froze the rest. Although, really, that shouldn’t have been necessary. Palmer guffaws. “A 14 year-old son? Come on! Bacon doesn’t last.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003c/strong>Tasty as it is, Palmer’s not looking to start a new career in bacon. In case you’re thinking about it, bacon is not one of the approved foods under the new \u003ca href=\"http://leginfo.legislature.ca.gov/faces/billNavClient.xhtml?bill_id=201120120AB1616\">California Homemade Food Act\u003c/a>. But...we’re getting ahead of ourselves.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60869\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/therawmaterials-new.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-60869\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/therawmaterials-new.jpg\" alt=\"The raw material. Photo: Rachael Myrow\" width=\"640\" height=\"480\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The raw material, in this case, at Olivier's Butchery in San Francisco. Photo: Rachael Myrow\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>First, you should try making bacon, and that involves buying pork belly. \u003ca href=\"http://www.biritemarket.com/\">Bi-Rite\u003c/a> butcher Zane Clark says some people do pause looking at a full pork belly. Especially if they don’t have ravenous teenagers living at home. Zane suggests sharing the love -- and the saturated fat -- with others. “You could have a bacon party with it,” he suggests.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Or...if you want to get all competitive about it, you could invite your DIY-inclined friends over for a piggy throw-down. “A bacon swap,” Clark says, “Which would be kind of cool.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Clark says he’s seen no perceptible bump in pork belly sales specifically \u003cstrong>for\u003c/strong> bacon-making. Other Bay Area butchers report bacon stampedes, typically set off by a compelling food blog post, or TV show, or dare I suggest it, public radio segment. Once you’ve got the belly in your hot little hands, the next question is dry rub or brine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60868\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 480px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Ian-Marks-new.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-60868\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Ian-Marks-new.jpg\" alt=\"Ian Marks is chef/owner of The Beast and The Hare in San Francisco's Mission District. Photo: Rachael Myrow\" width=\"480\" height=\"640\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ian Marks is chef/owner of The Beast and The Hare in San Francisco's Mission District. Photo: Rachael Myrow\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Ian Marks of \u003ca href=\"http://www.beastandthehare.com/\">The Beast and the Hare\u003c/a> in San Francisco brines. Downstairs in the restaurant’s basement, buckets of pork belly sit in brining solution for a week before he pulls them out, commenting:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>“It’s basically a pickled piece of meat.”\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Marks is coy about the actual recipe. Still, it's fair to say his recipe works. He moves four slabs of bacon a week. The rest he sells to \u003ca href=\"http://www.drewesbros.com/\">Drewes Brothers\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://guerrameats.com/default.aspx\">Guerra's Deli & Meats\u003c/a>. In truth, much depends on your personal palate. The ingredients are about as basic as can be: “White sugar, brown sugar, molasses, honey, salt, and a little saltpeter.” That said, he must be doing something right to stand out in a crowded marketplace. San Francisco magazine last year \u003ca href=\"http://www.modernluxury.com/san-francisco/story/taste-test-the-bacon-bar\">declared his bacon the best in the Bay Area\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60866\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 480px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/brinedandreadytogo-new.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-60866\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/brinedandreadytogo-new.jpg\" alt=\"Out of the bucket and ready for the smoker. Photo: Rachael Myrow\" width=\"480\" height=\"640\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Out of the bucket and ready for the smoker. Photo: Rachael Myrow\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>From there, it’s on to the smoker, strewn liberally with apple wood chips. To meet the exigencies of the weekend brunch rush, he typically finishes cooking the bacon in the oven. After that, there’s yet another aesthetic decision to make - thin slices? Or thick? Marks slices \u003cem>super\u003c/em> thick -- just eight to ten slices a pound. \"Otherwise, the molasses will start burning.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some folks are finicky about choosing locally-raised pork, but some of the best heritage breeds come from parts elsewhere. Marks gets his pork from \u003ca href=\"http://www.colemannatural.com/\">Coleman Farms\u003c/a> in Colorado: raised on pasture; no hormones or antibiotics.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I definitely prefer a red pig, a Duroc pig, over a Berkshire pig,” Marks says. Why? He likes the nuttiness of the Duroc, and the sweetness of the meat. He makes his own charcuterie, too, and that’s also Duroc. That said, there’s something else. “I find Berkshire to be a little more barnyard-y smelling -- and because I’ve noticed it, now I notice it every time.” There are a variety of heritage breeds to choose from, and heritage crossbreeds, too. Ask your favorite butcher where she's sourcing her meat, but it's worth noting she'll also special order if you simply must try, for example, a Tamworth pig, instead of what she has in the case.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Where were we? Right, the stove. After Marks fries up a couple slices, we retire to one of the restaurant tables. Journalistic duty requires a taste test, you understand. Sure enough, as Marks promised, the bacon is salty, sweet and nutty. Some say brining makes the bacon taste more hammy, but there’s nothing hammy about this bacon. “Phenomenal,” I exclaim, and he grins with satisfaction.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Want to listen to the radio feature on bacon that aired on KQED? Here you go!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ciframe width=\"100%\" height=\"166\" scrolling=\"no\" frameborder=\"no\" src=\"https://w.soundcloud.com/player/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fapi.soundcloud.com%2Ftracks%2F91416669\">\u003c/iframe>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Off You Go To a Butcher Now:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.4505meats.com\">\u003cstrong>4505 Meats\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>, SF.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.avedanos.com\">\u003cstrong>Avedano's\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>, SF.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.belcampomeatco.com\">\u003cstrong>Belcampo Meat Co.\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>, Larkspur.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.biritemarket.com\">\u003cstrong>Bi-Rite Market\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>, SF.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.boccalone.com\">\u003cstrong>Boccalone\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>, SF.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://www.dittmers.com\">Dittmer's Gourmet Meats & Wurst-Haus\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>, Los Altos.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.drewesbros.com/\">\u003cstrong>Drewes Brothers\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>, SF.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://fattedcalf.com/\">\u003cstrong>Fatted Calf\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>, Napa, SF and Berkeley.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://guerrameats.com/default.aspx\">\u003cstrong>Guerra's Deli & Meats\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>, SF.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.thelocalbutchershop.com\">\u003cstrong>The Local Butcher Shop\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>, Berkeley.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://marinsunfarms.com\">\u003cstrong>Marin Sun Farms\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>, Point Reyes Station.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.oliviersbutchery.com/index.html\">\u003cstrong>Olivier's Butchery\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>, SF.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.primesmoked.com/\">\u003cstrong>Prime Smoked Meats\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>, Oakland.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.vicfarmmeats.com\">\u003cstrong>Victorian Farmstead Meat Co.\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>, Sebastopol.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Previous Bay Area Bites bacon coverage:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/10/09/makin-bacon-at-the-headlands/\">Makin’ Bacon in the Headlands\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Vegetarians, avert your eyes... Bacon has been \u003ca href=\"http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=jump%20the%20shark\">jumping the shark\u003c/a> since the early \u003ca href=\"http://www.theotherpages.org/poems/cook02.html\">18\u003csup>th\u003c/sup> century\u003c/a>, when Ebenezer Cook complained about the New World's \"homely fair.\" Even then, it would seem, Americans had a predilection for \"Fat, from Bacon fry'd, Or with\u003cem> Molossus\u003c/em> dulcify'd.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60865\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/bacon-new.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-60865\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/bacon-new.jpg\" alt=\"Why won't bacon die? Because it tastes so good. Photo: Rachael Myrow\" width=\"640\" height=\"480\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Why won't bacon die? Because it tastes so good. Photo: Rachael Myrow\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Yes, pundits keep declaring bacon is boring, and therefore, dead. Over. \u003cem>Done\u003c/em>, already. But bacon’s greasy grip on the American consciousness lives on.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As food writer Jason Sheehan of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.seattleweekly.com/voracious/2011/01/bacon_we_have_a_problem_an_inf.php\">Seattle Weekly\u003c/a> put it,\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"Bacon has not merely jumped the shark. Bacon has taken all the sharks, stuffed them with cupcakes, ice cream, sausage, lipstick, alarm clocks and mayonnaise, wrapped them in bacon, deep-fried them, then jumped that. Using a ramp made of bacon.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>In a time when people are cultivating their own yoghurt and milling their own flour, it’s a wonder everybody isn’t making their own bacon, the way Pati Palmer does in Cupertino.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It all started a couple of years ago. Driving her two teenagers around one morning, Palmer heard a KQED Forum segment on \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/a/forum/R201012081000\">Do-It-Yourself projects\u003c/a>, and the guest \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/Hedonia\">Sean Timberlake\u003c/a> from \u003ca href=\"http://www.punkdomestics.com/\">Punk Domestics\u003c/a> piqued her curiosity. Not long after, she was poking around on the group’s web site. “And I just decided ‘I gotta do \u003ca href=\"http://www.punkdomestics.com/category/tags/bacon?page=1\">bacon\u003c/a>.’”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Off she went to \u003ca href=\"http://www.dittmers.com/\">Dittmer's Gourmet Meats & Wurst-Haus\u003c/a> in Los Altos for five pounds of pork belly. The family ate what they could, and froze the rest. Although, really, that shouldn’t have been necessary. Palmer guffaws. “A 14 year-old son? Come on! Bacon doesn’t last.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003c/strong>Tasty as it is, Palmer’s not looking to start a new career in bacon. In case you’re thinking about it, bacon is not one of the approved foods under the new \u003ca href=\"http://leginfo.legislature.ca.gov/faces/billNavClient.xhtml?bill_id=201120120AB1616\">California Homemade Food Act\u003c/a>. But...we’re getting ahead of ourselves.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60869\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/therawmaterials-new.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-60869\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/therawmaterials-new.jpg\" alt=\"The raw material. Photo: Rachael Myrow\" width=\"640\" height=\"480\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The raw material, in this case, at Olivier's Butchery in San Francisco. Photo: Rachael Myrow\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>First, you should try making bacon, and that involves buying pork belly. \u003ca href=\"http://www.biritemarket.com/\">Bi-Rite\u003c/a> butcher Zane Clark says some people do pause looking at a full pork belly. Especially if they don’t have ravenous teenagers living at home. Zane suggests sharing the love -- and the saturated fat -- with others. “You could have a bacon party with it,” he suggests.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Or...if you want to get all competitive about it, you could invite your DIY-inclined friends over for a piggy throw-down. “A bacon swap,” Clark says, “Which would be kind of cool.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Clark says he’s seen no perceptible bump in pork belly sales specifically \u003cstrong>for\u003c/strong> bacon-making. Other Bay Area butchers report bacon stampedes, typically set off by a compelling food blog post, or TV show, or dare I suggest it, public radio segment. Once you’ve got the belly in your hot little hands, the next question is dry rub or brine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60868\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 480px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Ian-Marks-new.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-60868\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Ian-Marks-new.jpg\" alt=\"Ian Marks is chef/owner of The Beast and The Hare in San Francisco's Mission District. Photo: Rachael Myrow\" width=\"480\" height=\"640\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ian Marks is chef/owner of The Beast and The Hare in San Francisco's Mission District. Photo: Rachael Myrow\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Ian Marks of \u003ca href=\"http://www.beastandthehare.com/\">The Beast and the Hare\u003c/a> in San Francisco brines. Downstairs in the restaurant’s basement, buckets of pork belly sit in brining solution for a week before he pulls them out, commenting:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>“It’s basically a pickled piece of meat.”\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Marks is coy about the actual recipe. Still, it's fair to say his recipe works. He moves four slabs of bacon a week. The rest he sells to \u003ca href=\"http://www.drewesbros.com/\">Drewes Brothers\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://guerrameats.com/default.aspx\">Guerra's Deli & Meats\u003c/a>. In truth, much depends on your personal palate. The ingredients are about as basic as can be: “White sugar, brown sugar, molasses, honey, salt, and a little saltpeter.” That said, he must be doing something right to stand out in a crowded marketplace. San Francisco magazine last year \u003ca href=\"http://www.modernluxury.com/san-francisco/story/taste-test-the-bacon-bar\">declared his bacon the best in the Bay Area\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60866\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 480px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/brinedandreadytogo-new.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-60866\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/brinedandreadytogo-new.jpg\" alt=\"Out of the bucket and ready for the smoker. Photo: Rachael Myrow\" width=\"480\" height=\"640\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Out of the bucket and ready for the smoker. Photo: Rachael Myrow\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>From there, it’s on to the smoker, strewn liberally with apple wood chips. To meet the exigencies of the weekend brunch rush, he typically finishes cooking the bacon in the oven. After that, there’s yet another aesthetic decision to make - thin slices? Or thick? Marks slices \u003cem>super\u003c/em> thick -- just eight to ten slices a pound. \"Otherwise, the molasses will start burning.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some folks are finicky about choosing locally-raised pork, but some of the best heritage breeds come from parts elsewhere. Marks gets his pork from \u003ca href=\"http://www.colemannatural.com/\">Coleman Farms\u003c/a> in Colorado: raised on pasture; no hormones or antibiotics.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I definitely prefer a red pig, a Duroc pig, over a Berkshire pig,” Marks says. Why? He likes the nuttiness of the Duroc, and the sweetness of the meat. He makes his own charcuterie, too, and that’s also Duroc. That said, there’s something else. “I find Berkshire to be a little more barnyard-y smelling -- and because I’ve noticed it, now I notice it every time.” There are a variety of heritage breeds to choose from, and heritage crossbreeds, too. Ask your favorite butcher where she's sourcing her meat, but it's worth noting she'll also special order if you simply must try, for example, a Tamworth pig, instead of what she has in the case.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Where were we? Right, the stove. After Marks fries up a couple slices, we retire to one of the restaurant tables. Journalistic duty requires a taste test, you understand. Sure enough, as Marks promised, the bacon is salty, sweet and nutty. Some say brining makes the bacon taste more hammy, but there’s nothing hammy about this bacon. “Phenomenal,” I exclaim, and he grins with satisfaction.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Want to listen to the radio feature on bacon that aired on KQED? Here you go!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ciframe width=\"100%\" height=\"166\" scrolling=\"no\" frameborder=\"no\" src=\"https://w.soundcloud.com/player/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fapi.soundcloud.com%2Ftracks%2F91416669\">\u003c/iframe>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Off You Go To a Butcher Now:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.4505meats.com\">\u003cstrong>4505 Meats\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>, SF.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.avedanos.com\">\u003cstrong>Avedano's\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>, SF.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.belcampomeatco.com\">\u003cstrong>Belcampo Meat Co.\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>, Larkspur.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.biritemarket.com\">\u003cstrong>Bi-Rite Market\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>, SF.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.boccalone.com\">\u003cstrong>Boccalone\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>, SF.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://www.dittmers.com\">Dittmer's Gourmet Meats & Wurst-Haus\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>, Los Altos.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.drewesbros.com/\">\u003cstrong>Drewes Brothers\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>, SF.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://fattedcalf.com/\">\u003cstrong>Fatted Calf\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>, Napa, SF and Berkeley.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://guerrameats.com/default.aspx\">\u003cstrong>Guerra's Deli & Meats\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>, SF.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.thelocalbutchershop.com\">\u003cstrong>The Local Butcher Shop\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>, Berkeley.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://marinsunfarms.com\">\u003cstrong>Marin Sun Farms\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>, Point Reyes Station.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.oliviersbutchery.com/index.html\">\u003cstrong>Olivier's Butchery\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>, SF.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.primesmoked.com/\">\u003cstrong>Prime Smoked Meats\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>, Oakland.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.vicfarmmeats.com\">\u003cstrong>Victorian Farmstead Meat Co.\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>, Sebastopol.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Previous Bay Area Bites bacon coverage:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/10/09/makin-bacon-at-the-headlands/\">Makin’ Bacon in the Headlands\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Want To Forage In Your City? There's A Map For That",
"title": "Want To Forage In Your City? There's A Map For That",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60543\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/peachpicker.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/peachpicker-1024x767.jpg\" alt=\"Falling Fruit tells you where you can pick peaches and other foods free for the taking around the world. Photo: istockphoto.com\" width=\"1024\" height=\"767\" class=\"size-large wp-image-60543\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Falling Fruit tells you where you can pick peaches and other foods free for the taking around the world. Photo: istockphoto.com\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by \u003ca href=\"http://kbia.org/people/kristofor-husted\">Kristofor Husted\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/04/23/178603623/want-to-forage-in-your-city-theres-a-map-for-that\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (4/23/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you really love your peaches and want to shake a tree, there's a map to help you find one. That goes for veggies, nuts, berries and hundreds of other edible plant species, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Avid foragers \u003ca href=\"http://smallwhitecube.com/doku.php?id=about\">Caleb Philips\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.weltyphotography.com/about.html\">Ethan Welty\u003c/a> launched an interactive map last month that identifies more than a half-million locations across the globe where fruits and veggies are free for the taking. The project, dubbed \"\u003ca href=\"http://fallingfruit.org/\">Falling Fruit\u003c/a>,\" pinpoints all sorts of tasty trees in public parks, lining city streets and even hanging over fences from the U.K. to New Zealand.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The map looks like a typical Google map. Foraging locations are pinned with dots. Zoom in and click on one, and up pops a box with a description of what tree or bush you can find there. The description often includes information on the best season to pluck the produce, the quality and yield of the plant, a link to the species profile on the U.S. Department of Agriculture's website, and any additional advice on accessing the spot.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60542\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://fallingfruit.org/\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/fullmapscreengrab-290x162.jpg\" alt=\"A screenshot of the Falling Fruit interactive map\" width=\"290\" height=\"162\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-60542\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A screenshot of the Falling Fruit interactive map\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Welty, a photographer and geographer based in Boulder, Colo., compiled most of the locations from various municipal databases, local foraging organizations and urban gardening groups. Additionally, the map is open for public editing – Wikipedia-style.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I'm a data geek,\" Welty says. \"I feel like there is power in getting everything onto one map. A map is like a very narrow lens on the world, but I think it's very powerful because of how narrow it is.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Clearly, with dozens of countries boasting thousands of foraging destinations, it's practically impossible for Welty and Philips to verify all of the spots. Welty says they have to rely on the honesty of the contributors when it comes to listing trees in potentially off-limits locations, like private properties or fenced-in parks. In many of those cases, the entry contributors tell potential foragers to ask the property owners for permission. The map has more than 6,700 crowdsourced entries so far.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60541\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 216px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/fallenfruitguy.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/fallenfruitguy-216x290.jpg\" alt=\"Jeff Wanner stands among the 500 pounds of apples he picked from neighborhood trees in a couple of hours with Falling Fruit co-founder Ethan Welty in Boulder, Colo., last fall. Photo: Ethan Welty/Falling Fruit\" width=\"216\" height=\"290\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-60541\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jeff Wanner stands among the 500 pounds of apples he picked from neighborhood trees in a couple of hours with Falling Fruit co-founder Ethan Welty in Boulder, Colo., last fall. Photo: Ethan Welty/Falling Fruit\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The duo says they created Falling Fruit essentially to form a community for novice and pro foragers alike. Philips, who is a computer scientist based in the San Francisco Bay Area, says there's value in pulling a carrot from the ground or an apple from a tree to eat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"If I can apply my skills to help people realize that there is a fruit tree down the street that they can pick, then that's just a simple thing I can do to reconnect people with how food works and get them away from the notion that food is only in a grocery store,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, the map doesn't limit its entries to fruits and veggies. Welty says it also lists beehives, public water wells, and even dumpsters with excess food waste.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"There is someone who posted a squirrel with a recipe for him,\" he says. \"Gray squirrel is an invasive species. He's encouraging people to hunt for squirrels, so hey, why not?\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Welty says he hopes the map and its stable of contributors will keep growing — so much so that it ends up influencing cities' land use and management plans.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The big goal, in a way,\" he says, \"is to make people realize that there is potential [for foraging in cities] and deliberately create food forests, like the \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2012/02/29/147668557/seattles-first-urban-food-forest-will-be-free-to-forage\">Beacon Food Forest\u003c/a> and others around the country — to rethink what a city should look like.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60543\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/peachpicker.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/peachpicker-1024x767.jpg\" alt=\"Falling Fruit tells you where you can pick peaches and other foods free for the taking around the world. Photo: istockphoto.com\" width=\"1024\" height=\"767\" class=\"size-large wp-image-60543\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Falling Fruit tells you where you can pick peaches and other foods free for the taking around the world. Photo: istockphoto.com\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by \u003ca href=\"http://kbia.org/people/kristofor-husted\">Kristofor Husted\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/04/23/178603623/want-to-forage-in-your-city-theres-a-map-for-that\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (4/23/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you really love your peaches and want to shake a tree, there's a map to help you find one. That goes for veggies, nuts, berries and hundreds of other edible plant species, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Avid foragers \u003ca href=\"http://smallwhitecube.com/doku.php?id=about\">Caleb Philips\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.weltyphotography.com/about.html\">Ethan Welty\u003c/a> launched an interactive map last month that identifies more than a half-million locations across the globe where fruits and veggies are free for the taking. The project, dubbed \"\u003ca href=\"http://fallingfruit.org/\">Falling Fruit\u003c/a>,\" pinpoints all sorts of tasty trees in public parks, lining city streets and even hanging over fences from the U.K. to New Zealand.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The map looks like a typical Google map. Foraging locations are pinned with dots. Zoom in and click on one, and up pops a box with a description of what tree or bush you can find there. The description often includes information on the best season to pluck the produce, the quality and yield of the plant, a link to the species profile on the U.S. Department of Agriculture's website, and any additional advice on accessing the spot.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60542\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://fallingfruit.org/\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/fullmapscreengrab-290x162.jpg\" alt=\"A screenshot of the Falling Fruit interactive map\" width=\"290\" height=\"162\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-60542\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A screenshot of the Falling Fruit interactive map\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Welty, a photographer and geographer based in Boulder, Colo., compiled most of the locations from various municipal databases, local foraging organizations and urban gardening groups. Additionally, the map is open for public editing – Wikipedia-style.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I'm a data geek,\" Welty says. \"I feel like there is power in getting everything onto one map. A map is like a very narrow lens on the world, but I think it's very powerful because of how narrow it is.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Clearly, with dozens of countries boasting thousands of foraging destinations, it's practically impossible for Welty and Philips to verify all of the spots. Welty says they have to rely on the honesty of the contributors when it comes to listing trees in potentially off-limits locations, like private properties or fenced-in parks. In many of those cases, the entry contributors tell potential foragers to ask the property owners for permission. The map has more than 6,700 crowdsourced entries so far.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60541\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 216px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/fallenfruitguy.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/fallenfruitguy-216x290.jpg\" alt=\"Jeff Wanner stands among the 500 pounds of apples he picked from neighborhood trees in a couple of hours with Falling Fruit co-founder Ethan Welty in Boulder, Colo., last fall. Photo: Ethan Welty/Falling Fruit\" width=\"216\" height=\"290\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-60541\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jeff Wanner stands among the 500 pounds of apples he picked from neighborhood trees in a couple of hours with Falling Fruit co-founder Ethan Welty in Boulder, Colo., last fall. Photo: Ethan Welty/Falling Fruit\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The duo says they created Falling Fruit essentially to form a community for novice and pro foragers alike. Philips, who is a computer scientist based in the San Francisco Bay Area, says there's value in pulling a carrot from the ground or an apple from a tree to eat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"If I can apply my skills to help people realize that there is a fruit tree down the street that they can pick, then that's just a simple thing I can do to reconnect people with how food works and get them away from the notion that food is only in a grocery store,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, the map doesn't limit its entries to fruits and veggies. Welty says it also lists beehives, public water wells, and even dumpsters with excess food waste.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"There is someone who posted a squirrel with a recipe for him,\" he says. \"Gray squirrel is an invasive species. He's encouraging people to hunt for squirrels, so hey, why not?\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Welty says he hopes the map and its stable of contributors will keep growing — so much so that it ends up influencing cities' land use and management plans.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The big goal, in a way,\" he says, \"is to make people realize that there is potential [for foraging in cities] and deliberately create food forests, like the \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2012/02/29/147668557/seattles-first-urban-food-forest-will-be-free-to-forage\">Beacon Food Forest\u003c/a> and others around the country — to rethink what a city should look like.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Planning Your Spring Vegetable Garden for Earth Day",
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"content": "\u003cp>How are you getting dirty for Earth Day? This year, the official commemoration falls on Monday, April 22nd, but \u003ca href=\"http://earthdaysf.org/earth-day.html\">San Francisco\u003c/a> (and other places around the \u003ca href=\"http://www.bayareaearthday.org/\">Bay Area\u003c/a>) are holding celebrations this weekend, all focusing on greener, healthier living. It's a great opportunity to think about growing some of your own food, whether you've got a sprawling backyard, an underutilized front yard, access to a \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgro.org\">community garden\u003c/a> down the block, or even just a handful of pots or planter boxes on the back stairs. What does it take to turn your urban thumbs a little greener? No matter how much (or how little) space you've got, we've put together some easy-to-follow steps to get you digging deep this spring. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60383\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Kale-Broccoli-Artichoke-Blue-Flowers.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Kale-Broccoli-Artichoke-Blue-Flowers-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"Kale, Broccoli, Artichoke, Blue Flowers\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" class=\"size-large wp-image-60383\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Kale, Broccoli, Artichoke, Blue Flowers\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Assess Your Space\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nHow much growing space can you find? How much direct sun (and wind) will you have? San Francisco, in particular, is rife with micro-climates; growing a garden in the Outer Sunset is a very different proposition from planting in the Mission. You can grow lettuces, herbs, and hardy greens, like kale and collards, almost anywhere, but warmth-loving, sunshine-demanding plants like tomatoes, eggplants, and peppers need a reliable 6 to 8 hours of direct sunshine to ripen flavorfully. Making fruit (and seed-filled, fleshy vegetables like tomatoes and peppers count as fruit) takes a lot of effort on the plant's part, demanding a much higher level of nutrients and food (in the form of sugars produced by photosynthesis) than those needed by leafy greens. So, if your yard is a shady one, don't break your heart by planting lots of tomatoes that won't ripen. Stick with cool-loving plants like lettuce, chard, and Asian greens. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60386\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/lettuce600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/lettuce600.jpg\" alt=\"Lettuces like cool weather.\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-60386\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Lettuces like cool weather.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Don't Skimp on the Immediate Gratification\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nStarting from seed is the cheapest way to get a garden going. But it's also the slowest, and depending on how slug/snail/bird-mobbed your beds are, it can also be the most dangerous, as just-sprouted tender seedlings are the most vulnerable to pest attacks. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you need to see some evidence to stay interested, buy some well-established seedlings instead. And fun (and tasty) as tomatoes and potatoes can be, they also take months to produce. So remember to plant some quick-to-harvest treats, like lettuce, spinach, mizuna, Asian greens, arugula and radishes, which go soil-to-table in less than 6 weeks. Beets, too, can be harvested young, when they're extra-sweet and tender. Sugar-snap peas also grow like Jack's beanstalk (give them a trellis to crawl up and cling to) and are wildly productive. Plus, they make a great sweet snack right off the plant. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60375\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Pea-Vines-2.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Pea-Vines-2-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"Peas Vines\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" class=\"size-large wp-image-60375\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pea Vines\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Know Your Soil\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nUrban soils, even in residential neighborhoods, can have less-than-pristine histories. That's why container gardening--or building raised beds and filling them with fresh soil and compost--is usually preferable for edible plantings, rather than digging straight into your backyard topsoil, especially if you're planting root crops like beets, turnips, carrots, radishes, potatoes. Raised beds or containers can also help discourage critters (like gophers) from digging in from below, while opper strips around the edges can keep snails and slugs at bay. Building your own beds also means you can arrange the height to suit your flexibility; if crouching and bending close to the ground is difficult, plant in barrels or build tall, crate-like beds at a more comfortable level. Sunset magazine's website offers great step-by-step instructions for\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.sunset.com/garden/perfect-raised-bed-00400000039550/\">building your own redwood or cedar raised beds\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Get Some Good Books\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nAn invaluable resource--and one that no city grower should be without--is Pam Peirce's \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1570616175/kqedorg-20\">Golden Gate Gardening\u003c/a>, now in its 3rd edition. Peirce has been talking to gardeners all across the city for decades, getting their feedback on what grows best where. Her book is straightforward and readable for gardeners at all levels, and explains micro-climates, fog belts, wind patterns, and how to lay out your garden to make the most of both sun and shade, as well as listing all the best varieties of vegetables, flowers, fruits, and herbs for growing around the Bay. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0376039205/kqedorg-20\">New Western Garden Book\u003c/a>; (9th edition) is another must-have for gardeners throughout the West, especially in California. I can't think of a gardener I know who doesn't have a dusty, dirt-smeared copy of Sunset's gardening bible in her shed or garage--and often a newer, more pristine copy among the inspirational gardening books inside. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you're limited to what you can fit in pots on your back steps, pick up a copy of \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0789320274/kqedorg-20\">A Little Piece of Earth: How to Grow Your Own Food in Small Spaces\u003c/a>, local author \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/mariafinn/\">Maria Finn\u003c/a>'s book about container gardening. Finn knows firsthand about growing edibles without a backyard--she lives on a houseboat in Sausalito, and does all her gardening in pots on her upper deck. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Feed Your Soil\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nBefore you plant a single seed, you've got to get your soil right. Yes, this can seem boring; you can spend a whole afternoon hauling bags of compost or smelly chicken manure, double-digging or spreading mulch, and not have as much a sprig in the ground to show for it. But putting in your plants should be the very last step in building your garden. Skip or skimp on this step, and you'll be fighting bug infestations, weak growth, and nutrient and mineral deficiencies in your plants the whole rest of the growing season. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/bolted-kale600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/bolted-kale600-216x290.jpg\" title=\"Long, Woody Stems on Kale\" alt=\"Long, Woody Stems on Kale\" width=\"216\" height=\"290\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-60384\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/bolted-lettuce600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/bolted-lettuce600-216x290.jpg\" title=\"Bolted lettuce\" alt=\"Bolted lettuce\" width=\"216\" height=\"290\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-60385\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Do Some Spring Cleaning\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nMake room for spring! Pull out any bug-infested or mildewed plants that you planted last fall or winter. Quick tip-offs that your plants have bolted and are ready for composting: Thick, bare, woody stems; heavy infestations of aphids (check undersides of leaves); normally low plants, like lettuce, shooting up and producing long, skinny flower stems; an abundance of yellow flowers on broccoli and other brassica-family plants; anything that looks leggy, overgrown, and just plain tired. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bolted plants are concentrating their efforts on reproduction, meaning their leaves will be bitter and less flavorful. Pull 'em out, compost them to feed the earth (anything extremely buggy should be discarded, as home compost probably won't get hot enough to destroy insects and their eggs), and be sure to beef up your beds with fresh compost and/or organic fertilizer before planting fresh seedlings. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60378\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Strawberry-Plants.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Strawberry-Plants-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"Strawberry Plants\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" class=\"size-large wp-image-60378\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Strawberry Plants\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Rotate Your Beds\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nDon't plant seedlings from the same plant families in the same place year after year. Every plant family attracts a similar family of predators and disease-causing microbes to it. If you plant your potatoes where you put your tomatoes, you'll be encouraging the same pests in the soil, since both potatoes and tomatoes are in the Solanum family. Think of it as changing your plants' passwords every season. Strawberries, in particular, should be rotated around the garden frequently. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Bees-Like-Blue-Flowers.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Bees-Like-Blue-Flowers-290x217.jpg\" title=\"Bees Like Blue Flowers; Lavender\" alt=\"Bees Like Blue Flowers; Lavender\" width=\"290\" height=\"217\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-60381\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Lavender-Flowers.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Lavender-Flowers-290x217.jpg\" title=\"Lavender Flowers\" alt=\"Lavender Flowers\" width=\"290\" height=\"217\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-60373\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Feed Your Pollinators\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nYou know what makes a lot of your seed-bearing edible plants productive? Pollinators! That includes not just honeybees but all kinds of native bees, wasps, and other insects that crawl from flower to flower seeking nectar and, along the way, spreading pollen to make the reproductive fruiting magic happen. Planting compatible, \u003ca href=\"http://themelissagarden.com/plants.html\">pollinator-pleasing plants\u003c/a> alongside your edibles will definitely make a difference in how many zucchini, cucumbers, apricots or apples you'll get. And they're pretty, too! Bees are particularly fond of blue and purple flowers, so be sure to include borage (whose dainty star-shaped edible flowers are adorable on cupcakes), bachelor's buttons (cornflowers), and lavender. Other easy-to-grown pollinator buffets include cosmos, calendula, African blue basil, butterfly bush, coreopsis, dusty miller, sweet allysum, lamb's ear, scabiosa (pincushion flower), rosemary, and sage. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60380\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Borage-Nasturiums-3.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Borage-Nasturiums-3-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"Borage and Nasturiums\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" class=\"size-large wp-image-60380\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Borage and Nasturiums\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Buy Local\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nHead up to Novato, where the \u003ca href=\"http://www.marin.edu/IVC/organic-farm.html\">Indian Valley Organic Farm and Garden\u003c/a>, an educational farm that's part of the College of Marin, will be holding a 2-day \u003ca href=\"http://conservationcorpsnorthbay.org/f/sites/default/files/pdf/Plant%20Sale%204%2020%2013.pdf\">Spring Plant Sale\u003c/a>, complete with farm tours, live music, sales of plants, seedlings, and produce grown on the farm, bouquet making, and tastings, from 10am-3pm on Sat, April 20 and Sun, April 21. Buying seedlings from a farm often means getting more creative choices and more variety--a great way to try out some healthy new veggies. Purple carrots? Easter-egg radishes? Tokyo turnips? Rainbow chard? Golden raspberries? Why not? And consider investing in some perennials, too, like artichoke or rhubarb crowns, which can be productive for decades once established. Go colorful and get ready for a delicious spring and summer dining in the garden. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In Santa Cruz on May 4 and 5, the apprentices at \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2009/05/17/grow-a-farmer/\">UCSC Farm and Garden\u003c/a> program will be holding their annual \u003ca href=\"http://casfs.ucsc.edu/plantsale\">Spring Plant Sale\u003c/a>, organic plants and seedlings grown on the farm, including both annual and perennial vegetables, medicinal and culinary herbs, flowers, and fruit. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60379\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Artichoke-Plant.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Artichoke-Plant-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"Artichoke Plant\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" class=\"size-large wp-image-60379\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Artichoke Plant\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>How are you getting dirty for Earth Day? This year, the official commemoration falls on Monday, April 22nd, but \u003ca href=\"http://earthdaysf.org/earth-day.html\">San Francisco\u003c/a> (and other places around the \u003ca href=\"http://www.bayareaearthday.org/\">Bay Area\u003c/a>) are holding celebrations this weekend, all focusing on greener, healthier living. It's a great opportunity to think about growing some of your own food, whether you've got a sprawling backyard, an underutilized front yard, access to a \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgro.org\">community garden\u003c/a> down the block, or even just a handful of pots or planter boxes on the back stairs. What does it take to turn your urban thumbs a little greener? No matter how much (or how little) space you've got, we've put together some easy-to-follow steps to get you digging deep this spring. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60383\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Kale-Broccoli-Artichoke-Blue-Flowers.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Kale-Broccoli-Artichoke-Blue-Flowers-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"Kale, Broccoli, Artichoke, Blue Flowers\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" class=\"size-large wp-image-60383\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Kale, Broccoli, Artichoke, Blue Flowers\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Assess Your Space\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nHow much growing space can you find? How much direct sun (and wind) will you have? San Francisco, in particular, is rife with micro-climates; growing a garden in the Outer Sunset is a very different proposition from planting in the Mission. You can grow lettuces, herbs, and hardy greens, like kale and collards, almost anywhere, but warmth-loving, sunshine-demanding plants like tomatoes, eggplants, and peppers need a reliable 6 to 8 hours of direct sunshine to ripen flavorfully. Making fruit (and seed-filled, fleshy vegetables like tomatoes and peppers count as fruit) takes a lot of effort on the plant's part, demanding a much higher level of nutrients and food (in the form of sugars produced by photosynthesis) than those needed by leafy greens. So, if your yard is a shady one, don't break your heart by planting lots of tomatoes that won't ripen. Stick with cool-loving plants like lettuce, chard, and Asian greens. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60386\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/lettuce600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/lettuce600.jpg\" alt=\"Lettuces like cool weather.\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-60386\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Lettuces like cool weather.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Don't Skimp on the Immediate Gratification\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nStarting from seed is the cheapest way to get a garden going. But it's also the slowest, and depending on how slug/snail/bird-mobbed your beds are, it can also be the most dangerous, as just-sprouted tender seedlings are the most vulnerable to pest attacks. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you need to see some evidence to stay interested, buy some well-established seedlings instead. And fun (and tasty) as tomatoes and potatoes can be, they also take months to produce. So remember to plant some quick-to-harvest treats, like lettuce, spinach, mizuna, Asian greens, arugula and radishes, which go soil-to-table in less than 6 weeks. Beets, too, can be harvested young, when they're extra-sweet and tender. Sugar-snap peas also grow like Jack's beanstalk (give them a trellis to crawl up and cling to) and are wildly productive. Plus, they make a great sweet snack right off the plant. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60375\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Pea-Vines-2.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Pea-Vines-2-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"Peas Vines\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" class=\"size-large wp-image-60375\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pea Vines\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Know Your Soil\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nUrban soils, even in residential neighborhoods, can have less-than-pristine histories. That's why container gardening--or building raised beds and filling them with fresh soil and compost--is usually preferable for edible plantings, rather than digging straight into your backyard topsoil, especially if you're planting root crops like beets, turnips, carrots, radishes, potatoes. Raised beds or containers can also help discourage critters (like gophers) from digging in from below, while opper strips around the edges can keep snails and slugs at bay. Building your own beds also means you can arrange the height to suit your flexibility; if crouching and bending close to the ground is difficult, plant in barrels or build tall, crate-like beds at a more comfortable level. Sunset magazine's website offers great step-by-step instructions for\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.sunset.com/garden/perfect-raised-bed-00400000039550/\">building your own redwood or cedar raised beds\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Get Some Good Books\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nAn invaluable resource--and one that no city grower should be without--is Pam Peirce's \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1570616175/kqedorg-20\">Golden Gate Gardening\u003c/a>, now in its 3rd edition. Peirce has been talking to gardeners all across the city for decades, getting their feedback on what grows best where. Her book is straightforward and readable for gardeners at all levels, and explains micro-climates, fog belts, wind patterns, and how to lay out your garden to make the most of both sun and shade, as well as listing all the best varieties of vegetables, flowers, fruits, and herbs for growing around the Bay. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0376039205/kqedorg-20\">New Western Garden Book\u003c/a>; (9th edition) is another must-have for gardeners throughout the West, especially in California. I can't think of a gardener I know who doesn't have a dusty, dirt-smeared copy of Sunset's gardening bible in her shed or garage--and often a newer, more pristine copy among the inspirational gardening books inside. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you're limited to what you can fit in pots on your back steps, pick up a copy of \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0789320274/kqedorg-20\">A Little Piece of Earth: How to Grow Your Own Food in Small Spaces\u003c/a>, local author \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/mariafinn/\">Maria Finn\u003c/a>'s book about container gardening. Finn knows firsthand about growing edibles without a backyard--she lives on a houseboat in Sausalito, and does all her gardening in pots on her upper deck. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Feed Your Soil\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nBefore you plant a single seed, you've got to get your soil right. Yes, this can seem boring; you can spend a whole afternoon hauling bags of compost or smelly chicken manure, double-digging or spreading mulch, and not have as much a sprig in the ground to show for it. But putting in your plants should be the very last step in building your garden. Skip or skimp on this step, and you'll be fighting bug infestations, weak growth, and nutrient and mineral deficiencies in your plants the whole rest of the growing season. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/bolted-kale600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/bolted-kale600-216x290.jpg\" title=\"Long, Woody Stems on Kale\" alt=\"Long, Woody Stems on Kale\" width=\"216\" height=\"290\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-60384\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/bolted-lettuce600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/bolted-lettuce600-216x290.jpg\" title=\"Bolted lettuce\" alt=\"Bolted lettuce\" width=\"216\" height=\"290\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-60385\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Do Some Spring Cleaning\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nMake room for spring! Pull out any bug-infested or mildewed plants that you planted last fall or winter. Quick tip-offs that your plants have bolted and are ready for composting: Thick, bare, woody stems; heavy infestations of aphids (check undersides of leaves); normally low plants, like lettuce, shooting up and producing long, skinny flower stems; an abundance of yellow flowers on broccoli and other brassica-family plants; anything that looks leggy, overgrown, and just plain tired. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bolted plants are concentrating their efforts on reproduction, meaning their leaves will be bitter and less flavorful. Pull 'em out, compost them to feed the earth (anything extremely buggy should be discarded, as home compost probably won't get hot enough to destroy insects and their eggs), and be sure to beef up your beds with fresh compost and/or organic fertilizer before planting fresh seedlings. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60378\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Strawberry-Plants.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Strawberry-Plants-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"Strawberry Plants\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" class=\"size-large wp-image-60378\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Strawberry Plants\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Rotate Your Beds\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nDon't plant seedlings from the same plant families in the same place year after year. Every plant family attracts a similar family of predators and disease-causing microbes to it. If you plant your potatoes where you put your tomatoes, you'll be encouraging the same pests in the soil, since both potatoes and tomatoes are in the Solanum family. Think of it as changing your plants' passwords every season. Strawberries, in particular, should be rotated around the garden frequently. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Bees-Like-Blue-Flowers.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Bees-Like-Blue-Flowers-290x217.jpg\" title=\"Bees Like Blue Flowers; Lavender\" alt=\"Bees Like Blue Flowers; Lavender\" width=\"290\" height=\"217\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-60381\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Lavender-Flowers.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Lavender-Flowers-290x217.jpg\" title=\"Lavender Flowers\" alt=\"Lavender Flowers\" width=\"290\" height=\"217\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-60373\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Feed Your Pollinators\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nYou know what makes a lot of your seed-bearing edible plants productive? Pollinators! That includes not just honeybees but all kinds of native bees, wasps, and other insects that crawl from flower to flower seeking nectar and, along the way, spreading pollen to make the reproductive fruiting magic happen. Planting compatible, \u003ca href=\"http://themelissagarden.com/plants.html\">pollinator-pleasing plants\u003c/a> alongside your edibles will definitely make a difference in how many zucchini, cucumbers, apricots or apples you'll get. And they're pretty, too! Bees are particularly fond of blue and purple flowers, so be sure to include borage (whose dainty star-shaped edible flowers are adorable on cupcakes), bachelor's buttons (cornflowers), and lavender. Other easy-to-grown pollinator buffets include cosmos, calendula, African blue basil, butterfly bush, coreopsis, dusty miller, sweet allysum, lamb's ear, scabiosa (pincushion flower), rosemary, and sage. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60380\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Borage-Nasturiums-3.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Borage-Nasturiums-3-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"Borage and Nasturiums\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" class=\"size-large wp-image-60380\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Borage and Nasturiums\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Buy Local\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nHead up to Novato, where the \u003ca href=\"http://www.marin.edu/IVC/organic-farm.html\">Indian Valley Organic Farm and Garden\u003c/a>, an educational farm that's part of the College of Marin, will be holding a 2-day \u003ca href=\"http://conservationcorpsnorthbay.org/f/sites/default/files/pdf/Plant%20Sale%204%2020%2013.pdf\">Spring Plant Sale\u003c/a>, complete with farm tours, live music, sales of plants, seedlings, and produce grown on the farm, bouquet making, and tastings, from 10am-3pm on Sat, April 20 and Sun, April 21. Buying seedlings from a farm often means getting more creative choices and more variety--a great way to try out some healthy new veggies. Purple carrots? Easter-egg radishes? Tokyo turnips? Rainbow chard? Golden raspberries? Why not? And consider investing in some perennials, too, like artichoke or rhubarb crowns, which can be productive for decades once established. Go colorful and get ready for a delicious spring and summer dining in the garden. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In Santa Cruz on May 4 and 5, the apprentices at \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2009/05/17/grow-a-farmer/\">UCSC Farm and Garden\u003c/a> program will be holding their annual \u003ca href=\"http://casfs.ucsc.edu/plantsale\">Spring Plant Sale\u003c/a>, organic plants and seedlings grown on the farm, including both annual and perennial vegetables, medicinal and culinary herbs, flowers, and fruit. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60379\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Artichoke-Plant.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Artichoke-Plant-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"Artichoke Plant\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" class=\"size-large wp-image-60379\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Artichoke Plant\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "A 'Charleston Kitchen' Full Of Foraged And Forgotten Foods",
"title": "A 'Charleston Kitchen' Full Of Foraged And Forgotten Foods",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60344\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Lee-brothers.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Lee-brothers-1024x576.jpg\" alt=\"Matt Lee (left) and Ted Lee (right) grew up in Charleston, S.C. After leaving the South as young adults, they founded a mail-order food company, The Lee Bros. Boiled Peanut Catalogue. They have written two previous cookbooks of Southern cuisine. Photo: Squire Fox/Clarkson Potter\" width=\"1024\" height=\"576\" class=\"size-large wp-image-60344\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Matt Lee (left) and Ted Lee (right) grew up in Charleston, S.C. After leaving the South as young adults, they founded a mail-order food company, The Lee Bros. Boiled Peanut Catalogue. They have written two previous cookbooks of Southern cuisine. Photo: Squire Fox/Clarkson Potter\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2013/04/18/177367797/a-charleston-kitchen-full-of-foraged-and-forgotten-foods\">All Things Considered\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n [audio src=\"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/atc/2013/04/20130418_atc_15.mp3\"] \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Post by NPR Staff, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2013/04/18/177367797/a-charleston-kitchen-full-of-foraged-and-forgotten-foods\">NPR Food\u003c/a> (4/18/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A new cookbook by the Lee brothers just might inspire daydreams of a food-centric vacation to South Carolina. It's called \u003cem>The Lee Bros. Charleston Kitchen\u003c/em>, and in it, Matt and Ted Lee feature recipes and stories from the Southern port city they grew up in. The brothers joined NPR's Melissa Block to talk about Charleston's distinctive food culture, starting with the dishes that they'd put on a typical Charleston menu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I would start with kumquat sparklers, with the flavor of backyard kumquats, which are like tangerines,\" Matt says. \"Also, classic Charleston cheese biscuits with a single pecan pressed into it, and savory benne wafers — sesame seed wafers.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/books/titles/177362137/the-lee-bros-charleston-kitchen\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/lee-brothers-bookcover.jpg\" alt=\"The Lee Bros. Charleston Kitchen\" width=\"300\" height=\"314\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-60345\">\u003c/a>For the second course, Ted says, \"we'd do a she-crab soup, and then we'd do a shrimp and grits,\" he says. \"For vegetables, I think this is the perfect time to do chainey briar; it's growing really well out on Sullivan's Island. We'd do some \u003ca href=\"#briar\">Grilled Chainey Briar\u003c/a>.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Chainey briar is a native weed or vine,\" Ted explains. \"It's \u003cem>Smilax\u003c/em> botanically. It's something that grows on fence lines, it grows on sand dunes at the beaches and it has, in the spring right about now, a tender tip, a shoot that is delicious.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It looks, quite frankly, like a weed, and might be a bit of an acquired taste — but the brothers say it's worth acquiring. \"It's pretty rangy, and that's the appeal, in terms of flavor,\" Matt says. It tastes like asparagus but with this extra sort of reckless green thing. Sometimes we describe it as tasting like asparagus with olive oil already on it.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For dessert, the brothers would serve \u003ca href=\"#torte\">Huguenot Torte\u003c/a>, an iconic Charleston dish. \"Hugeonot torte has this nice meringue-like crisp top, but then a sludgy caramel and apple and pecan bottom to it,\" Matt says. \"It's got flour but tons of leavening — so it just puffs up in the oven, then collapses and creates this very interesting and uniquely Charleston dessert.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Southern Food With Less Pork And More Loquats\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Lee brothers, who were born in New York but grew up in Charleston, have written two previous cookbooks highlighting Southern cuisine. This is their first to focus just on the city of their youth, and their choice is more than just hometown favoritism: Charleston's culinary tradition is unusual, with dishes and traditions you won't find in other parts of the South.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's naturally about the seafood and also about the poultry,\" Matt explains. \"The much-heralded, like, 'porkopolis' of the South doesn't really exist so much in Charleston, because it was never a place to raise cattle or pigs, being so marshy.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's not just the meat that makes Charleston stand out; there's also a rich variety of local produce. \"I think another thing that visitors to Charleston are surprised by is just how close the farms are — the rural part of Charleston — to the city,\" Ted says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You might not even need to find a farmer to get fresh food. \"Even downtown — we grew up downtown in the historic district — we're surrounded by fruits of all kinds, like kumquats, loquats, mulberries, figs, pomegranates, bananas, citrus,\" Ted says. \"They all grow downtown, and you grow up sort of knowing where the trees are and which ones taste best.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Call it \"foraging\" or call it \"stealing,\" snagging fruit off someone else's tree is certainly possible in Charleston. \"There are a lot of secrets in back alleys in Charleston that yield great fruits and herbs.\" The trick to harvesting that bounty without ruining your neighborly relations? \"Be very polite,\" Ted says — and, Matt adds, be sure to smile. \"That's awfully disarming,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Taking Cues From The Past\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In addition to highlighting Charleston's current food culture, Matt and Ted Lee also looked to Charleston's history to find old recipes that might have been forgotten. Cookbooks from the 19th century were particularly inspiring, Ted says. \"They tell a story so diverse and varied about the different types of vegetables that were grown in the low country, some of which are rarely found, like salsify, tania — it's a root vegetable,\" he says. \"It's nice to be able to draw from the past to inform your kitchen in the present.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One recipe in the new cookbook comes from an even more distant past — a dessert from the 1700s called \u003ca href=\"#syllabub\">Syllabub\u003c/a>. \"Despite the fact that it appears in all the old cookbooks, Matt and I have never been served it — either in a Charleston restaurant or a Charleston home,\" Ted says. \"So we just tried it ourselves. It's basically very simple — it's fortified wine that's been seasoned with lemon juice and lemon peel, a little bit of sugar, sometimes spices, and whipped with cream until it's sort of this airy, fluffy, alcoholic whipped cream that goes really well with fruit.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you want to follow Matt and Ted and take a stab at Syllabub, a recipe is below, as well as recipes for Huguenot Torte and Grilled Chainey Briar. But be warned: You might need to plan a trip to Charleston to enjoy that chainey briar. You won't find it in grocery stores or farmers markets, and will have better luck harvesting it yourself. Like fresh kumquats off the tree or oysters from the ocean, it's a location-bound delicacy. As Matt Lee, who lives in Charleston today, puts it, \"it's just one of those things that you have to live here to really appreciate.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"briar\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Grilled Chainey Briar\u003c/h3>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60346\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/lee-brothers-chaineybriar.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/lee-brothers-chaineybriar-290x290.jpg\" alt=\"Chainey briar grows wild around Charleston, S.C. Photo: Matt Lee and Ted Lee/Clarkson Potter\" width=\"290\" height=\"290\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-60346\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chainey briar grows wild around Charleston, S.C. Photo: Matt Lee and Ted Lee/Clarkson Potter\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Chainey briar is what Charlestonians of a certain age call the tender shoots of the smilax (aka cat briar) vine, which can be found growing in the dunes and along sandy fence lines throughout the area. The distinctive spade-shaped leaves distinguish smilax from other vines growing in the same terrain. When raw, chainey briar has a delicious asparagus-and-olive-oil flavor that is fresh and green; lightly cooked, it is even more appetizing and tender. Chainey briar appears most often in community cookbooks of the rural sea islands, like Edisto and Yonge's.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Most chainey briar found among the dunes or in metropolitan Charleston are thin, curly tendrils, although our friend Tom, who gentleman-farms on Johns Island, recently introduced us to \"bull briar,\" the thicker sprouts of mature smilax vines that grow in the forested areas of the sea islands. Bull briar, which truly resembles large asparagus, would seem to represent more vegetable for one's effort, but it is found so high in the trees that a pole pruner is usually required to harvest it. We're just as happy to spend the afternoon on a path to the beach, eating every third tendril we pick, until the basket is full.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chainey briar almost never appears in the farmer's markets, so you must forage for it yourself (or ingratiate yourself to farmer Sidi Limehouse [see page 94 of The Lee Bros. Charleston Kitchen], who will occasionally indulge good friends with a basketful). Its flavor is robust enough that it grills well, wilting and charring in places. Dressed with oil and lemon, it makes for an exciting side dish with pre-colonial roots.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 pound chainey briar\u003cbr>1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for the pan\u003cbr>Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper\u003cbr>2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Thoroughly wash the chainey briar, removing any ants or foreign matter and pinching off the stem ends (which will toughen as they age) so only the tender parts remain. Toss the chainey briar in a large bowl with the olive oil to coat, scatter 1/2 teaspoon salt over the bowl, and toss again.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Lightly oil a grill pan, and place it over high heat. When a drop of water sizzles when dropped on the pan, spread the chainey briar in an even layer about 1/2 inch high (you may have to grill multiple batches, depending on the size of your pan). Allow the chainey briar to sizzle and pop for a minute or two, until the tips of some begin to blacken. Use tongs to shuffle the chainey briar on the grill pan and allow them to cook a minute or two more, until almost all the fronds show signs of wilting. Reserve the chainey briar in a large covered bowl as you move on to grill another batch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. When all the chainey briar is wilted and charred, dress it with the lemon juice, toss lightly, and season to taste with salt and black pepper. Serve warm or at room temperature.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"torte\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Huguenot Torte\u003c/h3>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60347\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/lee-brothershuguenot-torte.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/lee-brothershuguenot-torte-290x290.jpg\" alt=\"Huguenot torte has gooey caramel beneath a crackly top Photo: Squire Fox/Clarkson Potter\" width=\"290\" height=\"290\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-60347\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Huguenot torte has gooey caramel beneath a crackly top Photo: Squire Fox/Clarkson Potter\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Serves: 6 to 8\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\u003cem>Time: 55 minutes, 10 minutes cooling\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Imagine that a blondie and an apple-pecan pie got into a crusty-gooey, sticky-delicious accident in a baking dish, and you'll approximate the ultra-decadence of this dessert. Until relatively recently, Charlestonians believed that this confection, as the title might suggest, came to Charleston with the French Huguenots, who settled in the city in the eighteenth century, and that it was a rustic cousin of elegant pâtisseries. But in the 1990s, the culinary historian and Lowcountry native John Martin Taylor tracked down the woman to whom the recipe is attributed in Charleston Receipts, and learned that she'd encountered the dish as \"Ozark Pudding\" while visiting relatives in Arkansas in the 1940s. She had brought the recipe back to Charleston, and put the dessert on the menu of the Huguenot Tavern, where she was a cook.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The fact that this dessert has become as much an icon of Charleston home cooking as Charleston Okra Soup [see page 74 of The Lee Bros. Charleston Kitchen] and She-Crab Soup [page 77] seems odd — but it's all part of \"Charleston's food pattern,\" as May A. Pyatt wrote in a 1950 review of Charleston Receipts in the News and Courier. Another interesting note: not many Charleston restaurants these days offer the torte — or even variants upon it — but it is almost always offered on menus at the tea rooms [see page 79] that open in the spring throughout the area. You should master it yourself; it's easy to make and easy to eat, and nice to have in your repertoire.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When we're serving this dish for guests, we often temper its sweetness by whipping a small amount of buttermilk or sour cream into the whipped cream garnish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>unsalted butter for greasing the dish\u003cbr>2 large eggs\u003cbr>1 1/3 cups sugar\u003cbr>1/4 cup all-purpose flour\u003cbr>2 1/2 teaspoons baking powder\u003cbr>1/4 teaspoon kosher salt\u003cbr>1 Granny Smith or other tart apple, cored, peeled, and diced (1 cup)\u003cbr>1 cup chopped pecans\u003cbr>1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract\u003cbr>1/2 cup heavy cream\u003cbr>2 tablespoons whole buttermilk or sour cream\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Preheat the oven to 325 degrees F. Grease a 2-quart baking dish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. In a large bowl, beat the eggs with a whisk until they're creamy and frothy. Add the sugar, flour, baking powder, salt, apple, pecans, and vanilla, whisking to combine after each addition.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Pour the batter into the prepared baking dish and bake for 45 minutes, or until the top of the torte is crusty. Remove the torte from the oven and let cool for about 10 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Whip the cream with the buttermilk until stiff peaks form. Cut into individual portions — they will be lumpen and misshapen, with shards of crust and spoonfuls of ooze, but no matter — and serve with dollops of the whipped cream.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"syllabub\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Syllabub With Rosemary-Glazed Figs\u003c/h3>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60343\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 666px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/lee-brothers-syllabub.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/lee-brothers-syllabub.jpg\" alt=\"Syllabub is a traditional dessert featuring sherry, cream and sugar. Photo: Squire Fox/Clarkson Potter\" width=\"666\" height=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-60343\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Syllabub is a traditional dessert featuring sherry, cream and sugar. Photo: Squire Fox/Clarkson Potter\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Serves: 4 \u003c/em>\u003cbr>\u003cem>Time: 1 hour 15 minutes, including chilling\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Syllabub\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup Sercial Madeira or Amontillado sherry\u003cbr>Peel of 1/2 lemon\u003cbr>1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice\u003cbr>1 1/2 tablespoons sugar\u003cbr>Pinch of kosher salt\u003cbr>1 cup heavy cream, cold\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Rosemary-glazed figs\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup sugar\u003cbr>2 (3-inch) long sprigs rosemary\u003cbr>Pinch of kosher salt\u003cbr>4 ounces fresh figs (about 4 large), stemmed and quartered\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Make the syllabub: Put all syllabub ingredients except for the cream into a large bowl, and whisk until the sugar has dissolved, about a minute. Let stand in the fridge, about 1 hour.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2.\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>Make the rosemary-glazed figs: Heat the sugar and 1/4 cup of water in a small saucepan over medium heat, stirring until the sugar dissolves. Add the rosemary and the salt, stir for about 30 seconds to dissolve the salt and bruise the rosemary, and turn off the heat. Cover and let cool to room temperature, about 20 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3\u003cstrong>. \u003c/strong>Put the figs in a small bowl, drizzle 2 to 3 tablespoons of the rosemary syrup over them, and toss gently to coat. (If the figs are less than ripe, let them stand in the syrup for 30 minutes to sweeten.) Reserve the remaining syrup for another use, such as sweetening lemonade.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Remove the lemon peel from the wine mixture. Pour the cream into the wine and whisk by hand until the cream is thick and holds its shape, about 2 minutes. Divide the syllabub among four wine glasses or sundae cups and spoon the rosemary-glazed figs over each serving.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Syllabub with Strawberries and Black Pepper\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For a springtime variation on Syllabub with Rosemary-Glazed Figs, make Syllabub with Strawberries and Black Pepper. Simply substitute for the rosemary-glazed figs 4 ounces strawberries that have been quartered and tossed a few times with sugar to taste (a teaspoon or two) until the sugar has dissolved. (Add a few drops water, if needed, to dissolve). Spoon the strawberries over each serving of Syllabub, then grind a bit of black pepper over the top of each and serve.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Recipes from \u003c/em>The Lee Bros. Charleston Cookbook\u003cem> by Matt Lee and Ted Lee. Copyright 2013 by Matt Lee and Ted Lee. Excerpted by permission of Clarkson Potter, an imprint of the Crown Publishing Group, a division of Random House. \u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>More on the Lee Bros.\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=125832027\">Classic Southern Food Gets A Makeover\u003c/a> (NPR Food)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=6650215\">Recipes That Passed a Cookbook Critic's Test\u003c/a> (Kitchen Window, NPR Food)\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "The Lee brothers, Matt and Ted, have written two cookbooks about Southern cuisine, but now they've turned their attention to a more specific region: Charleston, the city they grew up in. Their new book contains recipes and stories from a seafood-centric community with a rich culinary history.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60344\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Lee-brothers.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Lee-brothers-1024x576.jpg\" alt=\"Matt Lee (left) and Ted Lee (right) grew up in Charleston, S.C. After leaving the South as young adults, they founded a mail-order food company, The Lee Bros. Boiled Peanut Catalogue. They have written two previous cookbooks of Southern cuisine. Photo: Squire Fox/Clarkson Potter\" width=\"1024\" height=\"576\" class=\"size-large wp-image-60344\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Matt Lee (left) and Ted Lee (right) grew up in Charleston, S.C. After leaving the South as young adults, they founded a mail-order food company, The Lee Bros. Boiled Peanut Catalogue. They have written two previous cookbooks of Southern cuisine. Photo: Squire Fox/Clarkson Potter\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2013/04/18/177367797/a-charleston-kitchen-full-of-foraged-and-forgotten-foods\">All Things Considered\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n \u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Post by NPR Staff, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2013/04/18/177367797/a-charleston-kitchen-full-of-foraged-and-forgotten-foods\">NPR Food\u003c/a> (4/18/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A new cookbook by the Lee brothers just might inspire daydreams of a food-centric vacation to South Carolina. It's called \u003cem>The Lee Bros. Charleston Kitchen\u003c/em>, and in it, Matt and Ted Lee feature recipes and stories from the Southern port city they grew up in. The brothers joined NPR's Melissa Block to talk about Charleston's distinctive food culture, starting with the dishes that they'd put on a typical Charleston menu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I would start with kumquat sparklers, with the flavor of backyard kumquats, which are like tangerines,\" Matt says. \"Also, classic Charleston cheese biscuits with a single pecan pressed into it, and savory benne wafers — sesame seed wafers.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/books/titles/177362137/the-lee-bros-charleston-kitchen\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/lee-brothers-bookcover.jpg\" alt=\"The Lee Bros. Charleston Kitchen\" width=\"300\" height=\"314\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-60345\">\u003c/a>For the second course, Ted says, \"we'd do a she-crab soup, and then we'd do a shrimp and grits,\" he says. \"For vegetables, I think this is the perfect time to do chainey briar; it's growing really well out on Sullivan's Island. We'd do some \u003ca href=\"#briar\">Grilled Chainey Briar\u003c/a>.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Chainey briar is a native weed or vine,\" Ted explains. \"It's \u003cem>Smilax\u003c/em> botanically. It's something that grows on fence lines, it grows on sand dunes at the beaches and it has, in the spring right about now, a tender tip, a shoot that is delicious.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It looks, quite frankly, like a weed, and might be a bit of an acquired taste — but the brothers say it's worth acquiring. \"It's pretty rangy, and that's the appeal, in terms of flavor,\" Matt says. It tastes like asparagus but with this extra sort of reckless green thing. Sometimes we describe it as tasting like asparagus with olive oil already on it.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For dessert, the brothers would serve \u003ca href=\"#torte\">Huguenot Torte\u003c/a>, an iconic Charleston dish. \"Hugeonot torte has this nice meringue-like crisp top, but then a sludgy caramel and apple and pecan bottom to it,\" Matt says. \"It's got flour but tons of leavening — so it just puffs up in the oven, then collapses and creates this very interesting and uniquely Charleston dessert.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Southern Food With Less Pork And More Loquats\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Lee brothers, who were born in New York but grew up in Charleston, have written two previous cookbooks highlighting Southern cuisine. This is their first to focus just on the city of their youth, and their choice is more than just hometown favoritism: Charleston's culinary tradition is unusual, with dishes and traditions you won't find in other parts of the South.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's naturally about the seafood and also about the poultry,\" Matt explains. \"The much-heralded, like, 'porkopolis' of the South doesn't really exist so much in Charleston, because it was never a place to raise cattle or pigs, being so marshy.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's not just the meat that makes Charleston stand out; there's also a rich variety of local produce. \"I think another thing that visitors to Charleston are surprised by is just how close the farms are — the rural part of Charleston — to the city,\" Ted says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You might not even need to find a farmer to get fresh food. \"Even downtown — we grew up downtown in the historic district — we're surrounded by fruits of all kinds, like kumquats, loquats, mulberries, figs, pomegranates, bananas, citrus,\" Ted says. \"They all grow downtown, and you grow up sort of knowing where the trees are and which ones taste best.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Call it \"foraging\" or call it \"stealing,\" snagging fruit off someone else's tree is certainly possible in Charleston. \"There are a lot of secrets in back alleys in Charleston that yield great fruits and herbs.\" The trick to harvesting that bounty without ruining your neighborly relations? \"Be very polite,\" Ted says — and, Matt adds, be sure to smile. \"That's awfully disarming,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Taking Cues From The Past\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In addition to highlighting Charleston's current food culture, Matt and Ted Lee also looked to Charleston's history to find old recipes that might have been forgotten. Cookbooks from the 19th century were particularly inspiring, Ted says. \"They tell a story so diverse and varied about the different types of vegetables that were grown in the low country, some of which are rarely found, like salsify, tania — it's a root vegetable,\" he says. \"It's nice to be able to draw from the past to inform your kitchen in the present.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One recipe in the new cookbook comes from an even more distant past — a dessert from the 1700s called \u003ca href=\"#syllabub\">Syllabub\u003c/a>. \"Despite the fact that it appears in all the old cookbooks, Matt and I have never been served it — either in a Charleston restaurant or a Charleston home,\" Ted says. \"So we just tried it ourselves. It's basically very simple — it's fortified wine that's been seasoned with lemon juice and lemon peel, a little bit of sugar, sometimes spices, and whipped with cream until it's sort of this airy, fluffy, alcoholic whipped cream that goes really well with fruit.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you want to follow Matt and Ted and take a stab at Syllabub, a recipe is below, as well as recipes for Huguenot Torte and Grilled Chainey Briar. But be warned: You might need to plan a trip to Charleston to enjoy that chainey briar. You won't find it in grocery stores or farmers markets, and will have better luck harvesting it yourself. Like fresh kumquats off the tree or oysters from the ocean, it's a location-bound delicacy. As Matt Lee, who lives in Charleston today, puts it, \"it's just one of those things that you have to live here to really appreciate.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"briar\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Grilled Chainey Briar\u003c/h3>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60346\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/lee-brothers-chaineybriar.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/lee-brothers-chaineybriar-290x290.jpg\" alt=\"Chainey briar grows wild around Charleston, S.C. Photo: Matt Lee and Ted Lee/Clarkson Potter\" width=\"290\" height=\"290\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-60346\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chainey briar grows wild around Charleston, S.C. Photo: Matt Lee and Ted Lee/Clarkson Potter\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Chainey briar is what Charlestonians of a certain age call the tender shoots of the smilax (aka cat briar) vine, which can be found growing in the dunes and along sandy fence lines throughout the area. The distinctive spade-shaped leaves distinguish smilax from other vines growing in the same terrain. When raw, chainey briar has a delicious asparagus-and-olive-oil flavor that is fresh and green; lightly cooked, it is even more appetizing and tender. Chainey briar appears most often in community cookbooks of the rural sea islands, like Edisto and Yonge's.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Most chainey briar found among the dunes or in metropolitan Charleston are thin, curly tendrils, although our friend Tom, who gentleman-farms on Johns Island, recently introduced us to \"bull briar,\" the thicker sprouts of mature smilax vines that grow in the forested areas of the sea islands. Bull briar, which truly resembles large asparagus, would seem to represent more vegetable for one's effort, but it is found so high in the trees that a pole pruner is usually required to harvest it. We're just as happy to spend the afternoon on a path to the beach, eating every third tendril we pick, until the basket is full.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chainey briar almost never appears in the farmer's markets, so you must forage for it yourself (or ingratiate yourself to farmer Sidi Limehouse [see page 94 of The Lee Bros. Charleston Kitchen], who will occasionally indulge good friends with a basketful). Its flavor is robust enough that it grills well, wilting and charring in places. Dressed with oil and lemon, it makes for an exciting side dish with pre-colonial roots.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 pound chainey briar\u003cbr>1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for the pan\u003cbr>Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper\u003cbr>2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Thoroughly wash the chainey briar, removing any ants or foreign matter and pinching off the stem ends (which will toughen as they age) so only the tender parts remain. Toss the chainey briar in a large bowl with the olive oil to coat, scatter 1/2 teaspoon salt over the bowl, and toss again.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Lightly oil a grill pan, and place it over high heat. When a drop of water sizzles when dropped on the pan, spread the chainey briar in an even layer about 1/2 inch high (you may have to grill multiple batches, depending on the size of your pan). Allow the chainey briar to sizzle and pop for a minute or two, until the tips of some begin to blacken. Use tongs to shuffle the chainey briar on the grill pan and allow them to cook a minute or two more, until almost all the fronds show signs of wilting. Reserve the chainey briar in a large covered bowl as you move on to grill another batch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. When all the chainey briar is wilted and charred, dress it with the lemon juice, toss lightly, and season to taste with salt and black pepper. Serve warm or at room temperature.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"torte\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Huguenot Torte\u003c/h3>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60347\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/lee-brothershuguenot-torte.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/lee-brothershuguenot-torte-290x290.jpg\" alt=\"Huguenot torte has gooey caramel beneath a crackly top Photo: Squire Fox/Clarkson Potter\" width=\"290\" height=\"290\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-60347\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Huguenot torte has gooey caramel beneath a crackly top Photo: Squire Fox/Clarkson Potter\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Serves: 6 to 8\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\u003cem>Time: 55 minutes, 10 minutes cooling\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Imagine that a blondie and an apple-pecan pie got into a crusty-gooey, sticky-delicious accident in a baking dish, and you'll approximate the ultra-decadence of this dessert. Until relatively recently, Charlestonians believed that this confection, as the title might suggest, came to Charleston with the French Huguenots, who settled in the city in the eighteenth century, and that it was a rustic cousin of elegant pâtisseries. But in the 1990s, the culinary historian and Lowcountry native John Martin Taylor tracked down the woman to whom the recipe is attributed in Charleston Receipts, and learned that she'd encountered the dish as \"Ozark Pudding\" while visiting relatives in Arkansas in the 1940s. She had brought the recipe back to Charleston, and put the dessert on the menu of the Huguenot Tavern, where she was a cook.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The fact that this dessert has become as much an icon of Charleston home cooking as Charleston Okra Soup [see page 74 of The Lee Bros. Charleston Kitchen] and She-Crab Soup [page 77] seems odd — but it's all part of \"Charleston's food pattern,\" as May A. Pyatt wrote in a 1950 review of Charleston Receipts in the News and Courier. Another interesting note: not many Charleston restaurants these days offer the torte — or even variants upon it — but it is almost always offered on menus at the tea rooms [see page 79] that open in the spring throughout the area. You should master it yourself; it's easy to make and easy to eat, and nice to have in your repertoire.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When we're serving this dish for guests, we often temper its sweetness by whipping a small amount of buttermilk or sour cream into the whipped cream garnish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>unsalted butter for greasing the dish\u003cbr>2 large eggs\u003cbr>1 1/3 cups sugar\u003cbr>1/4 cup all-purpose flour\u003cbr>2 1/2 teaspoons baking powder\u003cbr>1/4 teaspoon kosher salt\u003cbr>1 Granny Smith or other tart apple, cored, peeled, and diced (1 cup)\u003cbr>1 cup chopped pecans\u003cbr>1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract\u003cbr>1/2 cup heavy cream\u003cbr>2 tablespoons whole buttermilk or sour cream\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Preheat the oven to 325 degrees F. Grease a 2-quart baking dish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. In a large bowl, beat the eggs with a whisk until they're creamy and frothy. Add the sugar, flour, baking powder, salt, apple, pecans, and vanilla, whisking to combine after each addition.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Pour the batter into the prepared baking dish and bake for 45 minutes, or until the top of the torte is crusty. Remove the torte from the oven and let cool for about 10 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Whip the cream with the buttermilk until stiff peaks form. Cut into individual portions — they will be lumpen and misshapen, with shards of crust and spoonfuls of ooze, but no matter — and serve with dollops of the whipped cream.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"syllabub\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Syllabub With Rosemary-Glazed Figs\u003c/h3>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60343\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 666px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/lee-brothers-syllabub.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/lee-brothers-syllabub.jpg\" alt=\"Syllabub is a traditional dessert featuring sherry, cream and sugar. Photo: Squire Fox/Clarkson Potter\" width=\"666\" height=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-60343\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Syllabub is a traditional dessert featuring sherry, cream and sugar. Photo: Squire Fox/Clarkson Potter\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Serves: 4 \u003c/em>\u003cbr>\u003cem>Time: 1 hour 15 minutes, including chilling\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Syllabub\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup Sercial Madeira or Amontillado sherry\u003cbr>Peel of 1/2 lemon\u003cbr>1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice\u003cbr>1 1/2 tablespoons sugar\u003cbr>Pinch of kosher salt\u003cbr>1 cup heavy cream, cold\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Rosemary-glazed figs\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup sugar\u003cbr>2 (3-inch) long sprigs rosemary\u003cbr>Pinch of kosher salt\u003cbr>4 ounces fresh figs (about 4 large), stemmed and quartered\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Make the syllabub: Put all syllabub ingredients except for the cream into a large bowl, and whisk until the sugar has dissolved, about a minute. Let stand in the fridge, about 1 hour.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2.\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>Make the rosemary-glazed figs: Heat the sugar and 1/4 cup of water in a small saucepan over medium heat, stirring until the sugar dissolves. Add the rosemary and the salt, stir for about 30 seconds to dissolve the salt and bruise the rosemary, and turn off the heat. Cover and let cool to room temperature, about 20 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3\u003cstrong>. \u003c/strong>Put the figs in a small bowl, drizzle 2 to 3 tablespoons of the rosemary syrup over them, and toss gently to coat. (If the figs are less than ripe, let them stand in the syrup for 30 minutes to sweeten.) Reserve the remaining syrup for another use, such as sweetening lemonade.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Remove the lemon peel from the wine mixture. Pour the cream into the wine and whisk by hand until the cream is thick and holds its shape, about 2 minutes. Divide the syllabub among four wine glasses or sundae cups and spoon the rosemary-glazed figs over each serving.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Syllabub with Strawberries and Black Pepper\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For a springtime variation on Syllabub with Rosemary-Glazed Figs, make Syllabub with Strawberries and Black Pepper. Simply substitute for the rosemary-glazed figs 4 ounces strawberries that have been quartered and tossed a few times with sugar to taste (a teaspoon or two) until the sugar has dissolved. (Add a few drops water, if needed, to dissolve). Spoon the strawberries over each serving of Syllabub, then grind a bit of black pepper over the top of each and serve.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Recipes from \u003c/em>The Lee Bros. Charleston Cookbook\u003cem> by Matt Lee and Ted Lee. Copyright 2013 by Matt Lee and Ted Lee. Excerpted by permission of Clarkson Potter, an imprint of the Crown Publishing Group, a division of Random House. \u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>More on the Lee Bros.\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=125832027\">Classic Southern Food Gets A Makeover\u003c/a> (NPR Food)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=6650215\">Recipes That Passed a Cookbook Critic's Test\u003c/a> (Kitchen Window, NPR Food)\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "Bay Area Home Brewers Opt for Homegrown Hops",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60077\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/BAB-hops-1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/BAB-hops-1.jpg\" alt=\"Many Bay Area home brewers are trying their hands at growing their own hops. Photo credit: Tilde Herrera\" width=\"1000\" height=\"684\" class=\"size-full wp-image-60077\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Many Bay Area home brewers are trying their hands at growing their own hops.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>On a sunny day last week, Sam Gilbert dug a hole in the backyard of \u003ca href=\"http://www.brewlabsf.com/\" title=\"BrewLab SF\" target=\"_blank\">BrewLab SF\u003c/a>'s headquarters, into which he placed a hops rhizome.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Over the next several months, the rhizome, which looks like a stick with roots poking out of it, will grow vines that will produce a vital component of Gilbert's home-brewed beer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"Every brewer to some extent dreams of making a beer with their own hops,\" Gilbert says.\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Gilbert, co-founder of the home brewers' collective, joins other dedicated home brewers throughout the Bay Area who have taken their craft to another level by growing their own hops. As home brewing soars in popularity, so does the allure of raising hops, a climbing vine that is inexpensive and easy to grow.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60084\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/BAB-hops-13.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/BAB-hops-13.jpg\" alt=\"Sam Gilbert holds a Centennial hops rhizome that will be planted in his backyard in San Francisco's southern Mission District. His home serves as the headquarters for BrewLab SF. Photo credit: Tilde Herrera\" width=\"1000\" height=\"686\" class=\"size-full wp-image-60084\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sam Gilbert holds a Centennial hops rhizome to be planted in his backyard in San Francisco's southern Mission District. His home serves as the headquarters for BrewLab SF.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"It comes down to passion,\" says Ian Dunbar-Hall, who is part of a home brewing group called \u003ca href=\"http://euphemiaales.com/index.php/brewery/\" title=\"Euphemia Ales\" target=\"_blank\">Euphemia Ales\u003c/a> in San Francisco. \"One way to extend that passion is to grow your own ingredients. While we don't have the ability to necessarily grow our grain, we can grow our own hops.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.sanfranciscobrewcraft.com/default.asp\" title=\"San Francisco Brewcraft\" target=\"_blank\">San Francisco Brewcraft\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.oakbarrel.com/\" title=\"Oak Barrel Winecraft\" target=\"_blank\">Oak Barrel Winecraft\u003c/a> in Berkeley report normal sales of rhizomes this year, while \u003ca href=\"http://morebeer.com/\" title=\"MoreBeer\">MoreBeer\u003c/a> in Concord has seen companywide rhizome pre-sales increase about 25 percent compared to last year, says store manager Dave Wonder.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"This has been our biggest year by far,\" Wonder says. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>More than a few members of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.bayareamashers.org/\" title=\"Bay Area Mashers\">Bay Area Mashers\u003c/a> home brew club are finally trying their hand at growing hops this year, says president Justin Unverricht.\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"I have seen a large increase in people wanting to grow their own hops,\" he says. \"More people are aware of how to do it and there is now a fairly large wealth of information for people who are interested. If you have the space, it's a fun distraction.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Growing your own hops ensures peak freshness compared to the hops home brewers can buy commercially, Gilbert says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Everyone kind of prizes having the freshest hops possible in their beer,\" Gilbert says. \"There is no better way to control that than for it to be your own hops.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60087\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/BAB-hops-5.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/BAB-hops-5.jpg\" alt=\"Sam Gilbert plants a Centennial hops rhizome between cilantro and rosemary plants, which will also be used in home-brewed beer.\" width=\"1000\" height=\"690\" class=\"size-full wp-image-60087\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sam Gilbert plants a Centennial hops rhizome between cilantro and rosemary plants, which will also be used in home-brewed beer.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Chad Gallagher of Berkeley began growing hops because he wanted to be involved in another aspect of the beer-making process. He started four years ago at a time when hops were very expensive because of a hops shortage. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Today, you can find hops rhizomes at home brew stores in the spring for $4-$5, but with hops being a hot commodity, growing your own ensures a steady supply. It can also be difficult to buy fresh hops to make a wet hops beer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"There are some varieties that are in such demand that many home brew shops and hop distributors ration them out to a few ounces to home brewers at a time,\" Unverricht says. \"Large breweries often have direct deals with the hop farmers themselves to secure access to certain hops, but competition is pretty fierce.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hops rhizomes produce vines that can reach 20 to 30 feet with plenty of sunlight and water. It takes about three years for a hops plant to fully mature and develop its root system. Gallagher, who grows four hops varieties, has been impressed with how quickly they can grow under the right conditions. \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"On a hot day,\" he says, \"they'll grow two to three inches.\" \u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>But hops need regular maintenance and must be cut down to the ground after each harvest, says James Davids, an enologist with San Francisco Brewcraft.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's a pretty crazy plant,\" Davids says. \"After a year or two, it could take over the entire side of your house.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The home brewing supply store sells 10 different hops varieties, but not all grow well in some parts of the Bay Area with its varying microclimates.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Cascade or Centennial tend to do well whether it's foggy or sunny,\" Davids says. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Gilbert is growing six or seven hops varieties, including Cascade, Centennial, Nugget, Goldings and Fuggles. They are a mix of rhizomes and mature plants donated by a BrewLab brewer, all of which he hopes will produce enough hops to brew roughly 15 to 20 gallons of beer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60089\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/BAB-hops-2.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/BAB-hops-2.jpg\" alt=\"Gilbert's freshly-planted rhizomes join mature hops plants donated by a BrewLab brewer.\" width=\"1000\" height=\"726\" class=\"size-full wp-image-60089\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Gilbert's freshly-planted rhizomes join mature hops plants donated by a BrewLab brewer.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Like many home brewers who grow their own hops, he'll make a wet hops beer. Since hops have a very short shelf life once they are harvested, they are usually dried or pelletized. Gilbert will instead add the just-harvested hops to the boil kettle to impart a fresh, grassy flavor. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's more seasonal than any other beer,\" says Dunbar-Hall. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dunbar-Hall grows 32 plants with eight hops varieties on his family's property north of Napa, which he says would produce more beer than he and his two partners could ever drink. They'll use some of the hops to make a wet hops double IPA, and will give the rest to other home brewers or possibly team up with a local brewery for a wet hops beer. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60082\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/BAB-hops-11.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/BAB-hops-11.jpg\" alt=\"On his family's 85-acre plot of land north of Napa, Dunbar-Hall grows hops on two 16-foot trellis systems. Photo credit: Ian Dunbar-Hall\" width=\"1000\" height=\"722\" class=\"size-full wp-image-60082\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">On his family's 85-acre plot of land north of Napa, Dunbar-Hall grows hops on two 16-foot trellis systems.\u003cbr> Photo credit: Ian Dunbar-Hall\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Keep an eye out for wet hops beers on tap at local brew pubs around the harvest season from August through late September, he says. Sierra Nevada also makes Northern and Southern Hemisphere Harvest Wet Hop Ales.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With home brewed wet hops beers, there can be a lot of guesswork because unlike commercially-available hops, which are lab-tested, it is harder to determine the bitterness of backyard hops.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Personally, I'm excited about making a beer completely with my own hops so I think I'll play that roulette and see what happens,\" Gilbert says. \"Hopefully I'll get something that isn't too bitter to drink or not bitter enough.\"\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60077\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/BAB-hops-1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/BAB-hops-1.jpg\" alt=\"Many Bay Area home brewers are trying their hands at growing their own hops. Photo credit: Tilde Herrera\" width=\"1000\" height=\"684\" class=\"size-full wp-image-60077\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Many Bay Area home brewers are trying their hands at growing their own hops.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>On a sunny day last week, Sam Gilbert dug a hole in the backyard of \u003ca href=\"http://www.brewlabsf.com/\" title=\"BrewLab SF\" target=\"_blank\">BrewLab SF\u003c/a>'s headquarters, into which he placed a hops rhizome.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Over the next several months, the rhizome, which looks like a stick with roots poking out of it, will grow vines that will produce a vital component of Gilbert's home-brewed beer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"Every brewer to some extent dreams of making a beer with their own hops,\" Gilbert says.\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Gilbert, co-founder of the home brewers' collective, joins other dedicated home brewers throughout the Bay Area who have taken their craft to another level by growing their own hops. As home brewing soars in popularity, so does the allure of raising hops, a climbing vine that is inexpensive and easy to grow.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60084\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/BAB-hops-13.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/BAB-hops-13.jpg\" alt=\"Sam Gilbert holds a Centennial hops rhizome that will be planted in his backyard in San Francisco's southern Mission District. His home serves as the headquarters for BrewLab SF. Photo credit: Tilde Herrera\" width=\"1000\" height=\"686\" class=\"size-full wp-image-60084\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sam Gilbert holds a Centennial hops rhizome to be planted in his backyard in San Francisco's southern Mission District. His home serves as the headquarters for BrewLab SF.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"It comes down to passion,\" says Ian Dunbar-Hall, who is part of a home brewing group called \u003ca href=\"http://euphemiaales.com/index.php/brewery/\" title=\"Euphemia Ales\" target=\"_blank\">Euphemia Ales\u003c/a> in San Francisco. \"One way to extend that passion is to grow your own ingredients. While we don't have the ability to necessarily grow our grain, we can grow our own hops.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.sanfranciscobrewcraft.com/default.asp\" title=\"San Francisco Brewcraft\" target=\"_blank\">San Francisco Brewcraft\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.oakbarrel.com/\" title=\"Oak Barrel Winecraft\" target=\"_blank\">Oak Barrel Winecraft\u003c/a> in Berkeley report normal sales of rhizomes this year, while \u003ca href=\"http://morebeer.com/\" title=\"MoreBeer\">MoreBeer\u003c/a> in Concord has seen companywide rhizome pre-sales increase about 25 percent compared to last year, says store manager Dave Wonder.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"This has been our biggest year by far,\" Wonder says. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>More than a few members of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.bayareamashers.org/\" title=\"Bay Area Mashers\">Bay Area Mashers\u003c/a> home brew club are finally trying their hand at growing hops this year, says president Justin Unverricht.\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"I have seen a large increase in people wanting to grow their own hops,\" he says. \"More people are aware of how to do it and there is now a fairly large wealth of information for people who are interested. If you have the space, it's a fun distraction.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Growing your own hops ensures peak freshness compared to the hops home brewers can buy commercially, Gilbert says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Everyone kind of prizes having the freshest hops possible in their beer,\" Gilbert says. \"There is no better way to control that than for it to be your own hops.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60087\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/BAB-hops-5.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/BAB-hops-5.jpg\" alt=\"Sam Gilbert plants a Centennial hops rhizome between cilantro and rosemary plants, which will also be used in home-brewed beer.\" width=\"1000\" height=\"690\" class=\"size-full wp-image-60087\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sam Gilbert plants a Centennial hops rhizome between cilantro and rosemary plants, which will also be used in home-brewed beer.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Chad Gallagher of Berkeley began growing hops because he wanted to be involved in another aspect of the beer-making process. He started four years ago at a time when hops were very expensive because of a hops shortage. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Today, you can find hops rhizomes at home brew stores in the spring for $4-$5, but with hops being a hot commodity, growing your own ensures a steady supply. It can also be difficult to buy fresh hops to make a wet hops beer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"There are some varieties that are in such demand that many home brew shops and hop distributors ration them out to a few ounces to home brewers at a time,\" Unverricht says. \"Large breweries often have direct deals with the hop farmers themselves to secure access to certain hops, but competition is pretty fierce.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hops rhizomes produce vines that can reach 20 to 30 feet with plenty of sunlight and water. It takes about three years for a hops plant to fully mature and develop its root system. Gallagher, who grows four hops varieties, has been impressed with how quickly they can grow under the right conditions. \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"On a hot day,\" he says, \"they'll grow two to three inches.\" \u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>But hops need regular maintenance and must be cut down to the ground after each harvest, says James Davids, an enologist with San Francisco Brewcraft.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's a pretty crazy plant,\" Davids says. \"After a year or two, it could take over the entire side of your house.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The home brewing supply store sells 10 different hops varieties, but not all grow well in some parts of the Bay Area with its varying microclimates.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Cascade or Centennial tend to do well whether it's foggy or sunny,\" Davids says. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Gilbert is growing six or seven hops varieties, including Cascade, Centennial, Nugget, Goldings and Fuggles. They are a mix of rhizomes and mature plants donated by a BrewLab brewer, all of which he hopes will produce enough hops to brew roughly 15 to 20 gallons of beer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60089\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/BAB-hops-2.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/BAB-hops-2.jpg\" alt=\"Gilbert's freshly-planted rhizomes join mature hops plants donated by a BrewLab brewer.\" width=\"1000\" height=\"726\" class=\"size-full wp-image-60089\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Gilbert's freshly-planted rhizomes join mature hops plants donated by a BrewLab brewer.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Like many home brewers who grow their own hops, he'll make a wet hops beer. Since hops have a very short shelf life once they are harvested, they are usually dried or pelletized. Gilbert will instead add the just-harvested hops to the boil kettle to impart a fresh, grassy flavor. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's more seasonal than any other beer,\" says Dunbar-Hall. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dunbar-Hall grows 32 plants with eight hops varieties on his family's property north of Napa, which he says would produce more beer than he and his two partners could ever drink. They'll use some of the hops to make a wet hops double IPA, and will give the rest to other home brewers or possibly team up with a local brewery for a wet hops beer. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60082\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/BAB-hops-11.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/BAB-hops-11.jpg\" alt=\"On his family's 85-acre plot of land north of Napa, Dunbar-Hall grows hops on two 16-foot trellis systems. Photo credit: Ian Dunbar-Hall\" width=\"1000\" height=\"722\" class=\"size-full wp-image-60082\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">On his family's 85-acre plot of land north of Napa, Dunbar-Hall grows hops on two 16-foot trellis systems.\u003cbr> Photo credit: Ian Dunbar-Hall\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Keep an eye out for wet hops beers on tap at local brew pubs around the harvest season from August through late September, he says. Sierra Nevada also makes Northern and Southern Hemisphere Harvest Wet Hop Ales.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With home brewed wet hops beers, there can be a lot of guesswork because unlike commercially-available hops, which are lab-tested, it is harder to determine the bitterness of backyard hops.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Personally, I'm excited about making a beer completely with my own hops so I think I'll play that roulette and see what happens,\" Gilbert says. \"Hopefully I'll get something that isn't too bitter to drink or not bitter enough.\"\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Heard the Buzz on Backyard Beekeeping? ",
"title": "Heard the Buzz on Backyard Beekeeping? ",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60030\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/bee-flower-feast.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/bee-flower-feast.jpg\" alt=\"honey bee\" width=\"1000\" height=\"972\" class=\"size-full wp-image-60030\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">honey bee\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Do you dream of harvesting your own super-local honey to drizzle on your breakfast bread? Wonder how hard it is to keep bees and how to start? \u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites\u003c/strong> interviewed some East Bay beekeepers and collected a swarm of resources listed at the end of this post. Considering the seasonal cycle of bees, spring is the perfect time to take off on this new adventure.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60020\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Nina-Mark-and-hive.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Nina-Mark-and-hive.jpg\" alt=\"Nina, Mark and Langstroth hive\" width=\"1000\" height=\"762\" class=\"size-full wp-image-60020\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nina, Mark and Langstroth hive\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Before they got their bees, Nina Carter’s and Mark Hogenson’s apple tree produced a measly five apples, the next year, after they set up a \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Langstroth_hive\">Langstroth hive\u003c/a> in their Oakland garden, their tree showered them with hundreds of apples. (And their neighbor’s plum tree had so many plums they had to help her pick them and make jam).\u003cbr>\n(This brings up a good point in beekeeping etiquette: ask--or at least alert--your neighbors about the new brood that will be moving in.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>BAB: Did you have a learning curve?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Nina:\u003c/strong> Actually, our first hive failed because we weren’t controlling for Varroa mites. We were following a holistic approach and thought the bees would adapt. They were thriving for six months and then became sickly and after two weeks just disappeared. Bees have this altruistic behavior, when they get infected they fly away to protect the hive.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Mark:\u003c/strong> It was disappointing, but we got advice from experienced beekeepers on several options to deal with mites. One way is to cover the bees with powdered sugar. Since they are very hygienic, that makes them completely clean themselves and they get rid of the tiny mites they might not have realized were eating a hole in their sides. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“There’s a saying in the bee community,” Mark adds with a rueful smile, “If you want to know anything about beekeeping, ask a second year beekeeper.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>So where did you get your next round of bees?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Mark:\u003c/strong> We got one swarm and one “cut–out,” which means that the bees had invaded an interior wall belonging to--we were told--\u003ca href=\"http://www.spiritrock.org/\">Spirit Rock Meditation Center\u003c/a>. Actually, those bees weren’t too productive, perhaps due to the change in the environment between Marin and Oakland.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What is it like to keep bees?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Nina:\u003c/strong> Fascinating and therapeutic. We’re in love with them. It’s kind of like having a new baby. We work at home as computer consultants and can just watch the bees and appreciate the scents of honey and beeswax.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60028\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Langstroth-frame1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Langstroth-frame1.jpg\" alt=\"Langstroth frame\" width=\"1000\" height=\"858\" class=\"size-full wp-image-60028\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Langstroth frame\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>How much honey do you get?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Mark:\u003c/strong> Last year, we got 150 pounds of honey from one hive and now we’re thinking about selling some. (We’re talking with local storeowners about carrying this super local product. We call it \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/RockridgeHoney?fref=ts\">Rockridge Honey\u003c/a>. We also make a salve and lip balm from the beeswax.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Any advice for beginning beekeepers?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Nina:\u003c/strong> When you’re just starting, you hear a lot of rumors and contradictory stories about what you should do and it’s hard to know who to believe. We did research for a year before we got our hives and read a lot.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Mark:\u003c/strong> I would start with two hives so if any problems arise, you can compare them. \u003ca href=\"http://alamedabees.org/\">The Alameda County Beekeepers Association\u003c/a> has a lot of resources and taking a hands-on class helped; in it we also learned about the lifecycle and timing of beehive management. Every few weeks, you have to check and see if the bees have enough room, if not you need to get more boxes (called supers). You use a smoker so you can calm the bees before you approach. You want to get them out of the way before you lift a frame so that you don’t crush any of them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Nina:\u003c/strong> If we can, we are always going to have hives. They help us to be more in harmony with the environment.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60021\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Ruby-Blumes-stairs.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Ruby-Blumes-stairs.jpg\" alt=\"Ruby Blume designed and made these stairs \" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-60021\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ruby Blume designed and made these stairs\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Ruby Blume has kept bees since 1997. It wasn’t a conscious decision on her part; someone dropped off a Top Bar style beehive in her garden, showed her how to manage it and then just disappeared. Now Blume, whose license plate reads BEE GRRL, teaches beginning and advanced beekeeping classes at \u003ca href=\"http://www.iuhoakland.com/\">The Institute of Urban Homesteading\u003c/a>. The classes focus on “how to keep bees naturally” without the use of chemicals or sugar-water and promote \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Top-bar_hive\">the Top Bar system\u003c/a> (an alternative to the Langstroth hive) for the small-scale backyard beekeeper. Even Blume’s allergy to bee stings has not prevented her from keeping bees.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60022\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Ruby-Blume.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Ruby-Blume.jpg\" alt=\"Ruby Blume and Top bar hive\" width=\"1000\" height=\"794\" class=\"size-full wp-image-60022\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ruby Blume and Top bar hive\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Why do you raise bees?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I love bees. I get an incredible sense of joy hanging out with them and feeling their exuberant energy. It’s a privilege to learn from them and through them I am more connected to nature’s cycles and seasons. Bees have such an elegant way of working together and being in concert with nature. They are amazing, highly evolved and, next to humans, the most studied species on earth. It’s easy to get started in beekeeping, yet after 16 years I am still learning!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>How did you decide to use the Top Bar system?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Partly because it is what I learned on and what I am comfortable with. But also because it allows the bees to build their comb naturally, instead of on pre-imprinted frames, which manipulates the way they build. I trust that bees know what they are doing—after all they have been doing it for millions of years perfectly well without us.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What are some advantages of the Top Bar System?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you let bees build natural combs, with smaller cells, it inhibits mites and then there is no need to treat them with pharmaceuticals. I also find the system to be much easier on my body as a beekeeper [full Langstroth boxes often weigh 50 pounds] and to require much less maintenance. Plus you can build a top bar hive yourself at a fraction of the cost of pre-fabricated boxes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60025\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/top-bar-comb.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/top-bar-comb.jpg\" alt=\"top bar comb\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-60025\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">top bar comb\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What else do you do to keep bees naturally?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I don’t feed my bees sugar water in the winter. Instead I leave them enough of their own honey to survive. Honey is a much healthier food for the bees. It takes one bee her whole life to make 1/12 of a teaspoon of honey. Bees need one pound a day of honey to maintain themselves in the summer, plus in the Bay Area they need to put away about 30 pounds to last them through the winter. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A bee colony basically acts as a single organism. The inside of the hive is like a womb with its own flora and fauna—sugar, and chemical treatments like antibiotics upset this harmony. I know this might not be a popular perspective, but I believe that animals need to die off sometimes in order to build resistance in the entire colony. So if you treat for mites with pharmaceuticals, then the mites will become more resistant to them. You need to let those bees with weaker genetics cull themselves. Last winter was especially hard and I lost several colonies but with spring, there was a big boom in population. It was an uplifting spiritual feeling to see their resistance and the upwelling of life.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>There has been a lot in the news about colony collapse disorder. Do beekeepers know what is causing that?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://science.time.com/2012/04/11/whats-the-buzz-study-links-pesticide-with-honeybee-collapse/\">Colony collapse\u003c/a> has been shown to be caused by specific pesticides that interrupt the bees’ ability to navigate. Bees use the sun and landmarks to navigate and then do a “bee dance” to tell other bees where flowers are. When exposed to these pesticides, they can’t find their way home. Of course there are many other factors within industrial apiculture that are impacting the health of our honeybees.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Are there any myths about bees that you would like to clear up?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yes, a swarm of bees is never an “angry” swarm; it’s a reproductive behavior that happens in the spring when the bees sense it will be a good year with plenty of food. The queen leaves the hive with some of the bees to find a new home. The old colony stays and raises a new queen—in this way the bees “reproduce” and make more of themselves. And the male bees neither sting nor collect pollen, only females. Male bees’ main job is to mate with a virgin queen, a task he gives his life to, as he dies in the process of mating.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Anything else you’d like to share?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For urban beekeepers, two colonies are plenty for one yard; more than that and the bees will be competing for the limited supply of pollen and nectar. If we are to increase the number of urban beekeepers, we need more forage for the bees. If you want to be a friend to bees you don’t have to be a beekeeper, just plant more flowers! They especially like purple, white and yellow flowers; like lavender, poppies and sunflowers.\u003cbr>\nHere’s a \u003ca href=\"http://nature.berkeley.edu/urbanbeegardens/gbt.html\">list of bee friendly flowers\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cstrong> Ruby’s advice for Becoming a Beginning Beekeeper\u003c/strong> \n\u003cli>Educate yourself by reading and taking classes and talking with other beekeepers.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Pick a system (Langstroth or Top Bar)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Procure bees (Pick one of the two options)\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\u003cul>\n\u003cli>Buy a package with a one queen and few thousand worker bees (may be hard to find right now as most packaged bees are bought up in January)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Catch a swarm or take a split from an established beekeeper.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cli>Get some protective gear so you feel comfortable and not afraid of getting stung: hat with veil, suit and gloves.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>You’ll need a little equipment: a hive tool, a bee brush and a smoker.\u003cbr>\nThen plunge in!\u003c/li>\n\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Resources:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.citybees.com/resources.htm\">City Bees\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.sfbee.org/\">San Francisco Beekeepers Association\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.sfbeecause.org/\">San Francisco Bee-Cause\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://alamedabees.org/\">Alameda County Beekeepers Association\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.iuhoakland.com/\">The Institute of Urban Homesteading\u003c/a> (Oakland)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://biofueloasis.com/workshops/\">BioFuel Oasis\u003c/a> (Berkeley)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.beekind.com/\">Bee Kind\u003c/a> (Sebastopol and San Francisco)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.sparkybeegirl.com/sbgframeset2.html\">Ruby Blume’s website\u003c/a> with many more resources\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Do you dream of harvesting your own super-local honey to drizzle on your breakfast bread? Wonder how hard it is to keep bees and how to start? Bay Area Bites interviewed some East Bay beekeepers and collected a swarm of resources.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60030\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/bee-flower-feast.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/bee-flower-feast.jpg\" alt=\"honey bee\" width=\"1000\" height=\"972\" class=\"size-full wp-image-60030\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">honey bee\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Do you dream of harvesting your own super-local honey to drizzle on your breakfast bread? Wonder how hard it is to keep bees and how to start? \u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites\u003c/strong> interviewed some East Bay beekeepers and collected a swarm of resources listed at the end of this post. Considering the seasonal cycle of bees, spring is the perfect time to take off on this new adventure.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60020\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Nina-Mark-and-hive.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Nina-Mark-and-hive.jpg\" alt=\"Nina, Mark and Langstroth hive\" width=\"1000\" height=\"762\" class=\"size-full wp-image-60020\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nina, Mark and Langstroth hive\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Before they got their bees, Nina Carter’s and Mark Hogenson’s apple tree produced a measly five apples, the next year, after they set up a \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Langstroth_hive\">Langstroth hive\u003c/a> in their Oakland garden, their tree showered them with hundreds of apples. (And their neighbor’s plum tree had so many plums they had to help her pick them and make jam).\u003cbr>\n(This brings up a good point in beekeeping etiquette: ask--or at least alert--your neighbors about the new brood that will be moving in.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>BAB: Did you have a learning curve?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Nina:\u003c/strong> Actually, our first hive failed because we weren’t controlling for Varroa mites. We were following a holistic approach and thought the bees would adapt. They were thriving for six months and then became sickly and after two weeks just disappeared. Bees have this altruistic behavior, when they get infected they fly away to protect the hive.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Mark:\u003c/strong> It was disappointing, but we got advice from experienced beekeepers on several options to deal with mites. One way is to cover the bees with powdered sugar. Since they are very hygienic, that makes them completely clean themselves and they get rid of the tiny mites they might not have realized were eating a hole in their sides. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“There’s a saying in the bee community,” Mark adds with a rueful smile, “If you want to know anything about beekeeping, ask a second year beekeeper.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>So where did you get your next round of bees?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Mark:\u003c/strong> We got one swarm and one “cut–out,” which means that the bees had invaded an interior wall belonging to--we were told--\u003ca href=\"http://www.spiritrock.org/\">Spirit Rock Meditation Center\u003c/a>. Actually, those bees weren’t too productive, perhaps due to the change in the environment between Marin and Oakland.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What is it like to keep bees?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Nina:\u003c/strong> Fascinating and therapeutic. We’re in love with them. It’s kind of like having a new baby. We work at home as computer consultants and can just watch the bees and appreciate the scents of honey and beeswax.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60028\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Langstroth-frame1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Langstroth-frame1.jpg\" alt=\"Langstroth frame\" width=\"1000\" height=\"858\" class=\"size-full wp-image-60028\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Langstroth frame\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>How much honey do you get?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Mark:\u003c/strong> Last year, we got 150 pounds of honey from one hive and now we’re thinking about selling some. (We’re talking with local storeowners about carrying this super local product. We call it \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/RockridgeHoney?fref=ts\">Rockridge Honey\u003c/a>. We also make a salve and lip balm from the beeswax.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Any advice for beginning beekeepers?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Nina:\u003c/strong> When you’re just starting, you hear a lot of rumors and contradictory stories about what you should do and it’s hard to know who to believe. We did research for a year before we got our hives and read a lot.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Mark:\u003c/strong> I would start with two hives so if any problems arise, you can compare them. \u003ca href=\"http://alamedabees.org/\">The Alameda County Beekeepers Association\u003c/a> has a lot of resources and taking a hands-on class helped; in it we also learned about the lifecycle and timing of beehive management. Every few weeks, you have to check and see if the bees have enough room, if not you need to get more boxes (called supers). You use a smoker so you can calm the bees before you approach. You want to get them out of the way before you lift a frame so that you don’t crush any of them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Nina:\u003c/strong> If we can, we are always going to have hives. They help us to be more in harmony with the environment.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60021\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Ruby-Blumes-stairs.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Ruby-Blumes-stairs.jpg\" alt=\"Ruby Blume designed and made these stairs \" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-60021\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ruby Blume designed and made these stairs\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Ruby Blume has kept bees since 1997. It wasn’t a conscious decision on her part; someone dropped off a Top Bar style beehive in her garden, showed her how to manage it and then just disappeared. Now Blume, whose license plate reads BEE GRRL, teaches beginning and advanced beekeeping classes at \u003ca href=\"http://www.iuhoakland.com/\">The Institute of Urban Homesteading\u003c/a>. The classes focus on “how to keep bees naturally” without the use of chemicals or sugar-water and promote \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Top-bar_hive\">the Top Bar system\u003c/a> (an alternative to the Langstroth hive) for the small-scale backyard beekeeper. Even Blume’s allergy to bee stings has not prevented her from keeping bees.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60022\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Ruby-Blume.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Ruby-Blume.jpg\" alt=\"Ruby Blume and Top bar hive\" width=\"1000\" height=\"794\" class=\"size-full wp-image-60022\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ruby Blume and Top bar hive\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Why do you raise bees?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I love bees. I get an incredible sense of joy hanging out with them and feeling their exuberant energy. It’s a privilege to learn from them and through them I am more connected to nature’s cycles and seasons. Bees have such an elegant way of working together and being in concert with nature. They are amazing, highly evolved and, next to humans, the most studied species on earth. It’s easy to get started in beekeeping, yet after 16 years I am still learning!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>How did you decide to use the Top Bar system?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Partly because it is what I learned on and what I am comfortable with. But also because it allows the bees to build their comb naturally, instead of on pre-imprinted frames, which manipulates the way they build. I trust that bees know what they are doing—after all they have been doing it for millions of years perfectly well without us.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What are some advantages of the Top Bar System?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you let bees build natural combs, with smaller cells, it inhibits mites and then there is no need to treat them with pharmaceuticals. I also find the system to be much easier on my body as a beekeeper [full Langstroth boxes often weigh 50 pounds] and to require much less maintenance. Plus you can build a top bar hive yourself at a fraction of the cost of pre-fabricated boxes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60025\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/top-bar-comb.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/top-bar-comb.jpg\" alt=\"top bar comb\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-60025\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">top bar comb\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What else do you do to keep bees naturally?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I don’t feed my bees sugar water in the winter. Instead I leave them enough of their own honey to survive. Honey is a much healthier food for the bees. It takes one bee her whole life to make 1/12 of a teaspoon of honey. Bees need one pound a day of honey to maintain themselves in the summer, plus in the Bay Area they need to put away about 30 pounds to last them through the winter. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A bee colony basically acts as a single organism. The inside of the hive is like a womb with its own flora and fauna—sugar, and chemical treatments like antibiotics upset this harmony. I know this might not be a popular perspective, but I believe that animals need to die off sometimes in order to build resistance in the entire colony. So if you treat for mites with pharmaceuticals, then the mites will become more resistant to them. You need to let those bees with weaker genetics cull themselves. Last winter was especially hard and I lost several colonies but with spring, there was a big boom in population. It was an uplifting spiritual feeling to see their resistance and the upwelling of life.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>There has been a lot in the news about colony collapse disorder. Do beekeepers know what is causing that?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://science.time.com/2012/04/11/whats-the-buzz-study-links-pesticide-with-honeybee-collapse/\">Colony collapse\u003c/a> has been shown to be caused by specific pesticides that interrupt the bees’ ability to navigate. Bees use the sun and landmarks to navigate and then do a “bee dance” to tell other bees where flowers are. When exposed to these pesticides, they can’t find their way home. Of course there are many other factors within industrial apiculture that are impacting the health of our honeybees.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Are there any myths about bees that you would like to clear up?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yes, a swarm of bees is never an “angry” swarm; it’s a reproductive behavior that happens in the spring when the bees sense it will be a good year with plenty of food. The queen leaves the hive with some of the bees to find a new home. The old colony stays and raises a new queen—in this way the bees “reproduce” and make more of themselves. And the male bees neither sting nor collect pollen, only females. Male bees’ main job is to mate with a virgin queen, a task he gives his life to, as he dies in the process of mating.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Anything else you’d like to share?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For urban beekeepers, two colonies are plenty for one yard; more than that and the bees will be competing for the limited supply of pollen and nectar. If we are to increase the number of urban beekeepers, we need more forage for the bees. If you want to be a friend to bees you don’t have to be a beekeeper, just plant more flowers! They especially like purple, white and yellow flowers; like lavender, poppies and sunflowers.\u003cbr>\nHere’s a \u003ca href=\"http://nature.berkeley.edu/urbanbeegardens/gbt.html\">list of bee friendly flowers\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cstrong> Ruby’s advice for Becoming a Beginning Beekeeper\u003c/strong> \n\u003cli>Educate yourself by reading and taking classes and talking with other beekeepers.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Pick a system (Langstroth or Top Bar)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Procure bees (Pick one of the two options)\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\u003cul>\n\u003cli>Buy a package with a one queen and few thousand worker bees (may be hard to find right now as most packaged bees are bought up in January)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Catch a swarm or take a split from an established beekeeper.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cli>Get some protective gear so you feel comfortable and not afraid of getting stung: hat with veil, suit and gloves.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>You’ll need a little equipment: a hive tool, a bee brush and a smoker.\u003cbr>\nThen plunge in!\u003c/li>\n\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Resources:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.citybees.com/resources.htm\">City Bees\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.sfbee.org/\">San Francisco Beekeepers Association\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.sfbeecause.org/\">San Francisco Bee-Cause\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://alamedabees.org/\">Alameda County Beekeepers Association\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.iuhoakland.com/\">The Institute of Urban Homesteading\u003c/a> (Oakland)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://biofueloasis.com/workshops/\">BioFuel Oasis\u003c/a> (Berkeley)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.beekind.com/\">Bee Kind\u003c/a> (Sebastopol and San Francisco)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.sparkybeegirl.com/sbgframeset2.html\">Ruby Blume’s website\u003c/a> with many more resources\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Preserved Lemons: Older, Wiser And Full Of Flavor",
"title": "Preserved Lemons: Older, Wiser And Full Of Flavor",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59797\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/lemons.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/lemons-1024x574.jpg\" alt=\"All you need for preserving lemons is a jar with a tight-fitting lid, lemons and salt -- and time. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\" width=\"1024\" height=\"574\" class=\"size-large wp-image-59797\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">All you need for preserving lemons is a jar with a tight-fitting lid, lemons and salt -- and time.\u003cbr>Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/10593559/t-susan-chang\">T. Susan Chang\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2013/04/08/176577903/preserved-lemons-older-wiser-and-full-of-flavor\">Kitchen Window\u003c/a>, NPR Food (4/10/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Get recipes for \u003ca href=\"#lemons\">Preserved Lemons\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#chicken\">Chicken With Preserved Lemon And Green Olives\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#couscous\">Root Vegetable Couscous With Preserved Lemon\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"#vinaigrette\">Preserved Lemon Vinaigrette\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On many occasions in my longtime relationship with cookbooks, I have had this experience (which will sound familiar, if you like Middle Eastern flavors as much as I do). I'm happily paging through my new Moroccan or Lebanese or Israeli book, lost in dreams of lamb and sumac, saffron and figs. \"Mmmm,\" I murmur over a glossy page, \"\u003cem>that\u003c/em> looks delicious.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I trace my finger down the ingredients list. Shallots, check. Tomatoes, check. Cinnamon stick, check. And then there it is: \u003cem>Preserved lemon\u003c/em>. \"Drat,\" I think. \"Foiled again.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here's the thing about preserved lemons: They're not the sort of thing you can just pick up anywhere. And while they're easy to make, it's not like you can just say, \"Oh, I'll do them tomorrow afternoon, and then we'll have the lamb Thursday.\" Preserved lemons can take a month — certainly not less than two weeks. By that time, I've put aside my North African cookbooks and I'm on to an easy French or Hunan cookbook, or a book that's all about ice cream or pickles. Preserved lemons are not great if you have a short attention span.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On the other hand, they keep practically forever. So if you can just make up your mind one afternoon to spend the 15 minutes it takes to cut, salt and jar them, afterward you can pretty much forget about them for as long as you like, or until you happen to think about Mediterranean citruses again.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The only real problem is that they might be taking up valuable real estate in the fridge, where someone not in the know might mistake them for a project gone wrong and toss them. If this is a habit among members of your family, I recommend that you train them out of it. (\"Whoever throws something out has to taste it first\" is an extremely effective rule.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once you've stashed away your very own golden hoard, you're set. You can pair your preserved lemons with olives (is there any other cuisine which makes such magic with old, salty fruits?) in the traditional, braised fashion. You can dress them up with lashings of butter in potatoes or risottos or couscous. They stand up to garlic, and they cooperate with cilantro. They nicely balance sweet flavors, such as dried apricots or honey.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once, the reason for preserving lemons was the usual one: It was a way of continuing to enjoy the fruit after its season had passed. But the flavor of a preserved lemon needs no justification. It's mellow yet intensely lemony, with none of the nose-tickling bright, high notes of the fresh lemon. The peel — which is the part you use, usually — is soft to the touch and satiny in the mouth. It's translucent, with a muted yellow luster when you hold it to the light, which I like to do just for fun after pulling out the pulp and rinsing off the salt. Sometimes, if the peel happens to be particularly thick, I laterally slice off another quarter-inch layer of pith from the inside, the better to taste and smell that shining cortex.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These days, of course, you can get adorable young lemons pretty much any time you want. (You can even get organic ones by the bag.) They're firm, fresh and tart, and sometimes there really is nothing you want more. But give me my old lemons, mild and mellowed, a little soft and salty, making everything around them seem a little sweeter. They're not the only ones, I hope, that grow more tender as they age.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"lemons\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Preserved Lemons\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>You can find a recipe for preserved lemons just about anywhere, they're that easy. Here's an adaptation of one from Claudia Roden's Arabesque (Knopf, 2005). I used kosher salt, and I can't see that it did any harm.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 lemons\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 tablespoons sea salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Juice of 4 additional lemons, or more to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wash and scrub the lemons. The classic Moroccan way is to cut each lemon in quarters but not right through, so that the pieces are still attached at the stem end, and to stuff each with a tablespoon of salt and squeeze it closed. Put them in a sterilized preserving jar, pressing them down so that they are squashed together, and close the jar.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Leave for 3 to 4 days, by which time the lemons will have disgorged some of their juices and the skins will have softened a little. Open the jar and press the lemons down as much as you can, then add fresh lemon juice to cover them entirely.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Close the jar and leave in a cool place for at least a month. The longer they are left, the better the flavor. (If a piece of lemon is not covered, it develops a white mold that is harmless and just needs to be washed off.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Before using, scoop out and discard the pulp, and rinse the lemon peel under the tap to get rid of the salt.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"chicken\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Chicken With Preserved Lemon And Green Olives\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This is the absolute best-known way to eat preserved lemon, and for good reason. I have two-dozen recipes for chicken with preserved lemon and olives on my shelves, but Claudia Roden's recipe from Arabesque (Knopf, 2005) is my choice for its sheer clarity and sure-footedness.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59798\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 750px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/lemonschicken.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/lemonschicken.jpg\" alt=\"Chicken With Preserved Lemon And Green Olives. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\" width=\"750\" height=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-59798\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chicken With Preserved Lemon And Green Olives. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 onions, grated or very finely chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 to 3 garlic cloves, crushed\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon crushed saffron threads or saffron powder\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon ground ginger\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 chicken, cut up in 8 or 10 pieces\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Salt and black pepper\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Juice of 1/2 lemon\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons chopped coriander\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Peel of 1 large or 2 small preserved lemons\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>12 to 16 green olives\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a wide casserole or heavy-bottomed pan that can hold all the chicken pieces in one layer, heat the oil and put in the onions. Saute, stirring over low heat, until they soften, then stir in the garlic, saffron and ginger.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Put in the chicken pieces, season with salt and pepper, and pour in about 1 cup water. Simmer, covered, turning the pieces over a few times and adding a little more water if it becomes too dry. Lift out the breasts after about 15 minutes and put them to one side. Continue to cook the remaining pieces for another 25 minutes or so, after which time return the breasts to the pan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Stir into the sauce the lemon juice, the chopped coriander and parsley, the preserved lemon peel cut into quarters or strips, and the olives. Simmer uncovered for 5 to 10 minutes, until the reduced sauce is thick and unctuous. If there is too much liquid, lift out the chicken pieces and set aside while you reduce the sauce further, then return the chicken to the pan and heat through.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Present the chicken on a serving dish with the olives and lemon peel on top of the meat.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"couscous\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Root Vegetable Couscous With Preserved Lemon\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>I had my doubts at first about this recipe, which you can find in Yotam Ottolenghi's \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2011/06/26/137402727/for-london-chef-plenty-to-love-about-vegetables\">Plenty\u003c/a> (Chronicle, 2010), under the name \"Ultimate Winter Couscous.\" Could any such medley of starchy roots, I wondered, be made to sing? Well, sing they did, and so decisively that I hoarded the leftovers for lunch. I should also note that the day I made it, the refrigerator shelves were at high tide and I couldn't find my \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2012/06/04/154293245/harissa-the-story-behind-north-africas-favorite-hot-sauce\">harissa\u003c/a>. Instead, I used a Turkish red pepper paste, and it was smashing.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59799\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 411px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/lemonscouscous.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/lemonscouscous.jpg\" alt=\"Root Vegetable Couscous With Preserved Lemon. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\" width=\"411\" height=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-59799\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Root Vegetable Couscous With Preserved Lemon. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 servings (or more)\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 medium carrots, peeled and cut into 3/4-inch chunks\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 medium parsnips, peeled and cut into 3/4-inch chunks\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>8 shallots, peeled\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cinnamon sticks\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 star anise\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 bay leaves\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5 tablespoons olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/4 teaspoon salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon ground ginger\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 teaspoon ground turmeric\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 teaspoon hot paprika\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 teaspoon chili flakes\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 1/2 cups cubed pumpkin or butternut squash (from a 10-ounce squash)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup dried apricots, roughly chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup chickpeas (canned or freshly cooked)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/2 cups chickpea cooking liquid and/or water\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup couscous\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Large pinch saffron\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup boiling vegetable stock\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 tablespoons butter, broken into pieces\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons harissa\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 ounce preserved lemon, finely chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cups cilantro leaves\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place the carrots, parsnips and shallots in a large ovenproof dish. Add the cinnamon sticks, star anise, bay leaves, 4 tablespoons of the oil, 3/4 teaspoon of salt and all the other spices and mix well. Place in the oven and cook for 15 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Add the pumpkin, stir and return to the oven. Continue cooking for about 35 minutes, by which time the vegetables should have softened while retaining a bite. Now add the dried apricots and the chickpeas with their cooking liquid and/or water. Return to the oven and cook for another 10 minutes, or until hot.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>About 15 minutes before the vegetables are ready, put the couscous in a large heatproof bowl with the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil, the saffron and remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt. Pour the boiling stock over the couscous. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and leave for about 10 minutes. Then add the butter and fluff up the couscous with a fork until the butter melts in. Cover again and leave somewhere warm.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To serve, spoon couscous into a deep plate or bowl. Stir the harissa and preserved lemon into the vegetables; taste and add salt if needed. Spoon the vegetables onto the center of the couscous. Finish with plenty of cilantro leaves.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"vinaigrette\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Preserved Lemon Vinaigrette\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>I discovered the original of this one, unexpectedly, in the pages of Hot and Hot Fish Club, a Southern cookbook published by Perseus in 2009. I can't think of a more perfect way to use it than drizzled thickly over a batch of crisp roast potatoes.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59796\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 777px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/lemonsvinaigrette.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/lemonsvinaigrette.jpg\" alt=\"Preserved Lemon Vinaigrette. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\" width=\"777\" height=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-59796\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Preserved Lemon Vinaigrette. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 1/2 cup dressing\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 of a whole preserved lemon peel\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon very finely minced or grated shallot\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons finely chopped parsley\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons finely chopped chives\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons finely chopped thyme\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup lemon juice\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If the lemon peel is thin, simply mince it as finely as you can. If it's thick, divide the lemon peel quarter lengthwise and set each half peel-side down on the cutting board. Steadying the peel by flattening it with the tips of your fingertips, carefully make a lateral slice between the pith and peel and work your way across until you've removed a layer of soft pith. Repeat with the other half, and then you can mince the peels with ease.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Combine the preserved lemon with the other ingredients and give them a good whisk. You may not need to salt at all, given the saltiness of the lemon peel. Use at room temperature.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>About The Author\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nT. Susan Chang regularly reviews cookbooks for \u003cem>The Boston Globe\u003c/em>, NPR.org and the cookbook-indexing website \u003ca href=\"http://www.eatyourbooks.com/\">Eat Your Books\u003c/a>. She's the author of \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Spoonful-Promises-Stories-Recipes-Well-Tempered/dp/0762772506/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1303827445&sr=8-1\">A Spoonful of Promises: Recipes and Stories From a Well-Tempered Table\u003c/a>. For more information, visit her blog, \u003ca href=\"http://tsusanchang.wordpress.com/\">Cookbooks for Dinner\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Salted and aged, the fruit develops mellow yet intensely lemony flavor, with none of the nose-tickling bright, high notes of the fresh version. Though they do take some time, preserved lemons are easy to make, keep practically forever, and make everything around them seem a little sweeter.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59797\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/lemons.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/lemons-1024x574.jpg\" alt=\"All you need for preserving lemons is a jar with a tight-fitting lid, lemons and salt -- and time. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\" width=\"1024\" height=\"574\" class=\"size-large wp-image-59797\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">All you need for preserving lemons is a jar with a tight-fitting lid, lemons and salt -- and time.\u003cbr>Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/10593559/t-susan-chang\">T. Susan Chang\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2013/04/08/176577903/preserved-lemons-older-wiser-and-full-of-flavor\">Kitchen Window\u003c/a>, NPR Food (4/10/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Get recipes for \u003ca href=\"#lemons\">Preserved Lemons\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#chicken\">Chicken With Preserved Lemon And Green Olives\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#couscous\">Root Vegetable Couscous With Preserved Lemon\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"#vinaigrette\">Preserved Lemon Vinaigrette\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On many occasions in my longtime relationship with cookbooks, I have had this experience (which will sound familiar, if you like Middle Eastern flavors as much as I do). I'm happily paging through my new Moroccan or Lebanese or Israeli book, lost in dreams of lamb and sumac, saffron and figs. \"Mmmm,\" I murmur over a glossy page, \"\u003cem>that\u003c/em> looks delicious.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I trace my finger down the ingredients list. Shallots, check. Tomatoes, check. Cinnamon stick, check. And then there it is: \u003cem>Preserved lemon\u003c/em>. \"Drat,\" I think. \"Foiled again.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here's the thing about preserved lemons: They're not the sort of thing you can just pick up anywhere. And while they're easy to make, it's not like you can just say, \"Oh, I'll do them tomorrow afternoon, and then we'll have the lamb Thursday.\" Preserved lemons can take a month — certainly not less than two weeks. By that time, I've put aside my North African cookbooks and I'm on to an easy French or Hunan cookbook, or a book that's all about ice cream or pickles. Preserved lemons are not great if you have a short attention span.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On the other hand, they keep practically forever. So if you can just make up your mind one afternoon to spend the 15 minutes it takes to cut, salt and jar them, afterward you can pretty much forget about them for as long as you like, or until you happen to think about Mediterranean citruses again.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The only real problem is that they might be taking up valuable real estate in the fridge, where someone not in the know might mistake them for a project gone wrong and toss them. If this is a habit among members of your family, I recommend that you train them out of it. (\"Whoever throws something out has to taste it first\" is an extremely effective rule.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once you've stashed away your very own golden hoard, you're set. You can pair your preserved lemons with olives (is there any other cuisine which makes such magic with old, salty fruits?) in the traditional, braised fashion. You can dress them up with lashings of butter in potatoes or risottos or couscous. They stand up to garlic, and they cooperate with cilantro. They nicely balance sweet flavors, such as dried apricots or honey.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once, the reason for preserving lemons was the usual one: It was a way of continuing to enjoy the fruit after its season had passed. But the flavor of a preserved lemon needs no justification. It's mellow yet intensely lemony, with none of the nose-tickling bright, high notes of the fresh lemon. The peel — which is the part you use, usually — is soft to the touch and satiny in the mouth. It's translucent, with a muted yellow luster when you hold it to the light, which I like to do just for fun after pulling out the pulp and rinsing off the salt. Sometimes, if the peel happens to be particularly thick, I laterally slice off another quarter-inch layer of pith from the inside, the better to taste and smell that shining cortex.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These days, of course, you can get adorable young lemons pretty much any time you want. (You can even get organic ones by the bag.) They're firm, fresh and tart, and sometimes there really is nothing you want more. But give me my old lemons, mild and mellowed, a little soft and salty, making everything around them seem a little sweeter. They're not the only ones, I hope, that grow more tender as they age.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"lemons\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Preserved Lemons\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>You can find a recipe for preserved lemons just about anywhere, they're that easy. Here's an adaptation of one from Claudia Roden's Arabesque (Knopf, 2005). I used kosher salt, and I can't see that it did any harm.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 lemons\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 tablespoons sea salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Juice of 4 additional lemons, or more to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wash and scrub the lemons. The classic Moroccan way is to cut each lemon in quarters but not right through, so that the pieces are still attached at the stem end, and to stuff each with a tablespoon of salt and squeeze it closed. Put them in a sterilized preserving jar, pressing them down so that they are squashed together, and close the jar.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Leave for 3 to 4 days, by which time the lemons will have disgorged some of their juices and the skins will have softened a little. Open the jar and press the lemons down as much as you can, then add fresh lemon juice to cover them entirely.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Close the jar and leave in a cool place for at least a month. The longer they are left, the better the flavor. (If a piece of lemon is not covered, it develops a white mold that is harmless and just needs to be washed off.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Before using, scoop out and discard the pulp, and rinse the lemon peel under the tap to get rid of the salt.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"chicken\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Chicken With Preserved Lemon And Green Olives\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This is the absolute best-known way to eat preserved lemon, and for good reason. I have two-dozen recipes for chicken with preserved lemon and olives on my shelves, but Claudia Roden's recipe from Arabesque (Knopf, 2005) is my choice for its sheer clarity and sure-footedness.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59798\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 750px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/lemonschicken.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/lemonschicken.jpg\" alt=\"Chicken With Preserved Lemon And Green Olives. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\" width=\"750\" height=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-59798\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chicken With Preserved Lemon And Green Olives. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 onions, grated or very finely chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 to 3 garlic cloves, crushed\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon crushed saffron threads or saffron powder\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon ground ginger\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 chicken, cut up in 8 or 10 pieces\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Salt and black pepper\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Juice of 1/2 lemon\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons chopped coriander\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Peel of 1 large or 2 small preserved lemons\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>12 to 16 green olives\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a wide casserole or heavy-bottomed pan that can hold all the chicken pieces in one layer, heat the oil and put in the onions. Saute, stirring over low heat, until they soften, then stir in the garlic, saffron and ginger.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Put in the chicken pieces, season with salt and pepper, and pour in about 1 cup water. Simmer, covered, turning the pieces over a few times and adding a little more water if it becomes too dry. Lift out the breasts after about 15 minutes and put them to one side. Continue to cook the remaining pieces for another 25 minutes or so, after which time return the breasts to the pan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Stir into the sauce the lemon juice, the chopped coriander and parsley, the preserved lemon peel cut into quarters or strips, and the olives. Simmer uncovered for 5 to 10 minutes, until the reduced sauce is thick and unctuous. If there is too much liquid, lift out the chicken pieces and set aside while you reduce the sauce further, then return the chicken to the pan and heat through.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Present the chicken on a serving dish with the olives and lemon peel on top of the meat.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"couscous\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Root Vegetable Couscous With Preserved Lemon\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>I had my doubts at first about this recipe, which you can find in Yotam Ottolenghi's \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2011/06/26/137402727/for-london-chef-plenty-to-love-about-vegetables\">Plenty\u003c/a> (Chronicle, 2010), under the name \"Ultimate Winter Couscous.\" Could any such medley of starchy roots, I wondered, be made to sing? Well, sing they did, and so decisively that I hoarded the leftovers for lunch. I should also note that the day I made it, the refrigerator shelves were at high tide and I couldn't find my \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2012/06/04/154293245/harissa-the-story-behind-north-africas-favorite-hot-sauce\">harissa\u003c/a>. Instead, I used a Turkish red pepper paste, and it was smashing.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59799\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 411px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/lemonscouscous.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/lemonscouscous.jpg\" alt=\"Root Vegetable Couscous With Preserved Lemon. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\" width=\"411\" height=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-59799\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Root Vegetable Couscous With Preserved Lemon. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 servings (or more)\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 medium carrots, peeled and cut into 3/4-inch chunks\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 medium parsnips, peeled and cut into 3/4-inch chunks\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>8 shallots, peeled\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cinnamon sticks\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 star anise\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 bay leaves\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5 tablespoons olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/4 teaspoon salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon ground ginger\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 teaspoon ground turmeric\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 teaspoon hot paprika\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 teaspoon chili flakes\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 1/2 cups cubed pumpkin or butternut squash (from a 10-ounce squash)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup dried apricots, roughly chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup chickpeas (canned or freshly cooked)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/2 cups chickpea cooking liquid and/or water\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup couscous\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Large pinch saffron\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup boiling vegetable stock\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 tablespoons butter, broken into pieces\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons harissa\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 ounce preserved lemon, finely chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cups cilantro leaves\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place the carrots, parsnips and shallots in a large ovenproof dish. Add the cinnamon sticks, star anise, bay leaves, 4 tablespoons of the oil, 3/4 teaspoon of salt and all the other spices and mix well. Place in the oven and cook for 15 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Add the pumpkin, stir and return to the oven. Continue cooking for about 35 minutes, by which time the vegetables should have softened while retaining a bite. Now add the dried apricots and the chickpeas with their cooking liquid and/or water. Return to the oven and cook for another 10 minutes, or until hot.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>About 15 minutes before the vegetables are ready, put the couscous in a large heatproof bowl with the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil, the saffron and remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt. Pour the boiling stock over the couscous. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and leave for about 10 minutes. Then add the butter and fluff up the couscous with a fork until the butter melts in. Cover again and leave somewhere warm.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To serve, spoon couscous into a deep plate or bowl. Stir the harissa and preserved lemon into the vegetables; taste and add salt if needed. Spoon the vegetables onto the center of the couscous. Finish with plenty of cilantro leaves.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"vinaigrette\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Preserved Lemon Vinaigrette\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>I discovered the original of this one, unexpectedly, in the pages of Hot and Hot Fish Club, a Southern cookbook published by Perseus in 2009. I can't think of a more perfect way to use it than drizzled thickly over a batch of crisp roast potatoes.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59796\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 777px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/lemonsvinaigrette.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/lemonsvinaigrette.jpg\" alt=\"Preserved Lemon Vinaigrette. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\" width=\"777\" height=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-59796\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Preserved Lemon Vinaigrette. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 1/2 cup dressing\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 of a whole preserved lemon peel\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon very finely minced or grated shallot\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons finely chopped parsley\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons finely chopped chives\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons finely chopped thyme\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup lemon juice\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If the lemon peel is thin, simply mince it as finely as you can. If it's thick, divide the lemon peel quarter lengthwise and set each half peel-side down on the cutting board. Steadying the peel by flattening it with the tips of your fingertips, carefully make a lateral slice between the pith and peel and work your way across until you've removed a layer of soft pith. Repeat with the other half, and then you can mince the peels with ease.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Combine the preserved lemon with the other ingredients and give them a good whisk. You may not need to salt at all, given the saltiness of the lemon peel. Use at room temperature.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>About The Author\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nT. Susan Chang regularly reviews cookbooks for \u003cem>The Boston Globe\u003c/em>, NPR.org and the cookbook-indexing website \u003ca href=\"http://www.eatyourbooks.com/\">Eat Your Books\u003c/a>. She's the author of \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Spoonful-Promises-Stories-Recipes-Well-Tempered/dp/0762772506/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1303827445&sr=8-1\">A Spoonful of Promises: Recipes and Stories From a Well-Tempered Table\u003c/a>. For more information, visit her blog, \u003ca href=\"http://tsusanchang.wordpress.com/\">Cookbooks for Dinner\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59626\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/kimchi.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/kimchi-1024x576.jpg\" alt=\"Kimchi is a traditional pungent fermented Korean dish made of vegetables with a variety of seasonings. Photo: Chung Sung-Jun/Getty Images\" width=\"1024\" height=\"576\" class=\"size-large wp-image-59626\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Kimchi is a traditional pungent fermented Korean dish made of vegetables with a variety of seasonings.\u003cbr>Photo: Chung Sung-Jun/Getty Images\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2013/04/07/176463491/why-you-shouldnt-wrinkle-your-nose-at-fermentation\">Weekend Edition Sunday\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n [audio src=\"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/wesun/2013/04/20130407_wesun_07.mp3\"] \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Post by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/4486742/bonny-wolf\">Bonny Wolf\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2013/04/07/176463491/why-you-shouldnt-wrinkle-your-nose-at-fermentation\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (4/7/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's delicious, it's nutritious and it's basically rotten. Fermentation is a hot culinary trend, and, as \u003cem>Weekend Edition\u003c/em> food commentator Bonny Wolf explains, the preservation process gives food a flavor unique to time and place.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>People you know may intentionally be growing bacteria in their homes — on food, outside the refrigerator. And they are doing it to make food safe, and nutritious.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They are doing what cooks have always done: fermenting food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For decades, we have fought against bacteria in our food. And now we're being told to make love — not war — on germs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Before you wrinkle your nose, consider this: If you have ever eaten bread, cheese, chocolate or yogurt, or drunk beer, wine or coffee, you have had fermented food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There \u003cem>are\u003c/em> bad bacteria. But many are beneficial.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>OK, non-scientists, stick with me. Fermentation is the process in which bacteria and yeasts feed on the sugars in food. That creates lactic acid, a preservative. It is what Bill Schindler, a fermenter and anthropology professor at Washington College, calls \"controlled rotting.\" The results are the probiotic foods you hear about: miso, tempeh, the fermented tea called kombucha.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The nutrients are intact, the foods are easier to digest, and new flavors have been created.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Katy Chang, an award-winning kimchi maker, says fermentation is magic. You make nutrients and flavors that didn't exist before, using what's in the air around you.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This taste of time and place gives your food what some fermenters call \"microbial terroir.\" Yeah, like in wine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chefs, artisan food producers and just plain folk have been touched by fermentation magic. New York superchef David Chang is working with a Harvard microbiologist to \u003ca href=\"http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S1878450X11000047\">try new things\u003c/a> at his Momofuku fermentation lab, like pistachio miso cashew tamari.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sandor Katz is considered the guru of fermenting food. He calls himself a \"fermentation revivalist,\" trying to bring back an ancient tradition.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In his introduction to Katz's book, \u003cem>The Art of Fermentation\u003c/em>, food writer Michael Pollan says we've been living in an age of Purell. He calls fermentation \"an eloquent protest against the homogenization of flavors and food now rolling like a great, undifferentiated lawn across the globe.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Katz says he wants to demystify fermentation so people won't be afraid. Then, maybe, we can all feel the magic.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Bonny Wolf is managing editor of \u003ca href=\"http://www.americanfoodroots.com/\">American Food Roots\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "It's delicious, it's nutritious and it's basically rotten. Fermentation is the hot culinary trend, and as \u003cem>Weekend Edition\u003c/em> food commentator Bonny Wolf explains, the preservation process gives food a flavor unique to time and place.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59626\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/kimchi.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/kimchi-1024x576.jpg\" alt=\"Kimchi is a traditional pungent fermented Korean dish made of vegetables with a variety of seasonings. Photo: Chung Sung-Jun/Getty Images\" width=\"1024\" height=\"576\" class=\"size-large wp-image-59626\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Kimchi is a traditional pungent fermented Korean dish made of vegetables with a variety of seasonings.\u003cbr>Photo: Chung Sung-Jun/Getty Images\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2013/04/07/176463491/why-you-shouldnt-wrinkle-your-nose-at-fermentation\">Weekend Edition Sunday\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n \u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Post by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/4486742/bonny-wolf\">Bonny Wolf\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2013/04/07/176463491/why-you-shouldnt-wrinkle-your-nose-at-fermentation\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (4/7/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's delicious, it's nutritious and it's basically rotten. Fermentation is a hot culinary trend, and, as \u003cem>Weekend Edition\u003c/em> food commentator Bonny Wolf explains, the preservation process gives food a flavor unique to time and place.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>People you know may intentionally be growing bacteria in their homes — on food, outside the refrigerator. And they are doing it to make food safe, and nutritious.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They are doing what cooks have always done: fermenting food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For decades, we have fought against bacteria in our food. And now we're being told to make love — not war — on germs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Before you wrinkle your nose, consider this: If you have ever eaten bread, cheese, chocolate or yogurt, or drunk beer, wine or coffee, you have had fermented food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There \u003cem>are\u003c/em> bad bacteria. But many are beneficial.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>OK, non-scientists, stick with me. Fermentation is the process in which bacteria and yeasts feed on the sugars in food. That creates lactic acid, a preservative. It is what Bill Schindler, a fermenter and anthropology professor at Washington College, calls \"controlled rotting.\" The results are the probiotic foods you hear about: miso, tempeh, the fermented tea called kombucha.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The nutrients are intact, the foods are easier to digest, and new flavors have been created.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Katy Chang, an award-winning kimchi maker, says fermentation is magic. You make nutrients and flavors that didn't exist before, using what's in the air around you.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This taste of time and place gives your food what some fermenters call \"microbial terroir.\" Yeah, like in wine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chefs, artisan food producers and just plain folk have been touched by fermentation magic. New York superchef David Chang is working with a Harvard microbiologist to \u003ca href=\"http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S1878450X11000047\">try new things\u003c/a> at his Momofuku fermentation lab, like pistachio miso cashew tamari.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sandor Katz is considered the guru of fermenting food. He calls himself a \"fermentation revivalist,\" trying to bring back an ancient tradition.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In his introduction to Katz's book, \u003cem>The Art of Fermentation\u003c/em>, food writer Michael Pollan says we've been living in an age of Purell. He calls fermentation \"an eloquent protest against the homogenization of flavors and food now rolling like a great, undifferentiated lawn across the globe.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Katz says he wants to demystify fermentation so people won't be afraid. Then, maybe, we can all feel the magic.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Bonny Wolf is managing editor of \u003ca href=\"http://www.americanfoodroots.com/\">American Food Roots\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "KY Jelly Is My New Jam",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/KY-Jelly.png\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/KY-Jelly-287x290.png\" alt=\"KY Jelly. Photo: Michael Procopio\" width=\"287\" height=\"290\" class=\"alignleft size-medium wp-image-59547\">\u003c/a>If it’s sweet and smearable, you will find it spooned upon my morning toast. Jams, jellies, marmalades, conserves, confitures– I love them all.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I’ve had fig paste from Morocco, cloudberry jam from Newfoundland, and pearl jam from Seattle. If there is a place on earth whose fruit spread I have not sampled, it is only a matter of time before I do. So you can imagine my delight when I wandered into Walgreen’s and made rather unexpected discovery.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was looking for shaving cream, but found myself lost in the feminine hygiene aisle when I saw it. Wedged between boxes of home pregnancy tests and Summer’s Eve, I came across a spread I never knew existed: Kentucky jelly. I was amused by its placement in the store, assuming perhaps that it was being marketed to pregnant women. Or at least very clean ones. If it was delicious enough to be recommended by gynecologists, it was good enough for me. I snatched up a box and headed to the checkout line, forgetting all about the shaving cream.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I returned home, I pulled the jelly out of its box after I put my bread slices in the oven to do their thing. The pale blue container I held in my hand gave little away as to what flavors lay hidden inside. I did, however, admire the packaging: a squeezeable tube. So convenient for spreading upon one’s toast, I thought.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Unscrewing the plastic cap to remove the tamper-proof seal, I replaced it and squirted a generous amount of the jelly onto my hot toast. I was surprised by the clearness of it but, undeterred, I bit in.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was not what I imagined Kentucky to taste like. I was disappointed by its glycerin flavor and viscous mouthfeel. \u003cstrong>And it was not organic.\u003c/strong> My friends from there are colorful and interesting, so why wasn’t the official jelly of The Bluegrass State the same? I tried to imagine Kat and Jackie spreading it on their muffins in the morning. And then I immediately tried to imagine something else.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>KY jelly does a great disservice to The Great Commonwealth, no matter what gynecologists may think of it. When I think of Kentucky, I think of bourbon, racehorses, summer heat, bourbon, cherries, and bourbon. I think of good old-fashioned traditions upheld like Derby Day and the making of \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Burgoo\">burgoo\u003c/a> and hot brown. And though I may think of \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uiVuvzWThfU\">Loretta Lynn using Crisco\u003c/a> in her pie, I never, ever think of her using KY Jelly.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Old-Fashioned-Kentucky-Jelly.png\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Old-Fashioned-Kentucky-Jelly.png\" alt=\"Old-Fashioned Kentucky Jelly. Photo: Michael Procopio\" width=\"611\" height=\"611\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-59548\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Old Fashioned Kentucky Jelly\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>I decided to make my own Kentucky jelly, the old-fashioned way, just to take the bad taste out of my mouth. And when I say “old-fashioned,” I mean like the cocktail of the same name. Though my friends from The Hemp State might disagree, this recipe is how I imagine their signature spread should be:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sticky, sweet, a whiff of bourbon, and the gentle kick of a thoroughbred thrown in for good measure.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Makes two 8 ounce jars of KY jelly.\u003c/strong> Keep one for yourself and give the other to someone you’d like to see use it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>1/2 cups Kentucky bourbon\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 1/2 cups black cherry juice (Knudsen makes a great one using cherries and nothing else, which is ideal.)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 cup of sugar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3 or 4 good dashes of orange bitters\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>The peel of 1/2 of an orange (large pieces are best, because you’ll want easy removal.)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 teaspoon Aleppo pepper (or chile flakes, if you want a little extra heat.)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 teaspoon calcium water (powder comes with your packet of Pomona Universal Pectin)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3/4 teaspoon of powdered Pomona’s Universal Pectin mixed with:\u003cbr>\n 1 teaspoon of granulated sugar\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003col>\n\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cp> \t\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Pouring-Jelly.png\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Pouring-Jelly-190x190.png\" alt=\"Pouring Kentucky Jelly. Photo: Michael Procopio\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignright size-thumbnail wp-image-59549\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cli>In a medium-sized, heavy-bottomed pot, add bourbon, cherry juice, orange peel, bitters, sugar, lemon juice, and pepper flakes. Bring to a boil, then turn off the heat and let stand for 30 minutes to allow the flavors to mingle properly.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Remove orange peel. Add calcium water and stir into your liquid. Add the sugar/pectin mixture, bring to a boil, and stir, stir, stir to prevent the pectin from clumping. To see if the concoction has gelled to you liking, place a small spoonful onto a chilled plate and see how it sets up when cool. Too firm? Add a little more juice and try again. Too runny? Add a little more pectin and see what happens.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Pour hot jelly in to clean, sterilized jars and process according to instructions from the \u003ca href=\"http://nchfp.uga.edu/how/can_home.html\">National Center for Home Food Preservation\u003c/a>.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>To serve: spread it on toast, on crackers, on cheese, on any food stuff that seems in need of lubrication.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "I decided to make my own Kentucky jelly, the old-fashioned way, just to take the bad taste out of my mouth. And when I say “old-fashioned,” I mean like the cocktail of the same name. ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/KY-Jelly.png\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/KY-Jelly-287x290.png\" alt=\"KY Jelly. Photo: Michael Procopio\" width=\"287\" height=\"290\" class=\"alignleft size-medium wp-image-59547\">\u003c/a>If it’s sweet and smearable, you will find it spooned upon my morning toast. Jams, jellies, marmalades, conserves, confitures– I love them all.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I’ve had fig paste from Morocco, cloudberry jam from Newfoundland, and pearl jam from Seattle. If there is a place on earth whose fruit spread I have not sampled, it is only a matter of time before I do. So you can imagine my delight when I wandered into Walgreen’s and made rather unexpected discovery.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was looking for shaving cream, but found myself lost in the feminine hygiene aisle when I saw it. Wedged between boxes of home pregnancy tests and Summer’s Eve, I came across a spread I never knew existed: Kentucky jelly. I was amused by its placement in the store, assuming perhaps that it was being marketed to pregnant women. Or at least very clean ones. If it was delicious enough to be recommended by gynecologists, it was good enough for me. I snatched up a box and headed to the checkout line, forgetting all about the shaving cream.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I returned home, I pulled the jelly out of its box after I put my bread slices in the oven to do their thing. The pale blue container I held in my hand gave little away as to what flavors lay hidden inside. I did, however, admire the packaging: a squeezeable tube. So convenient for spreading upon one’s toast, I thought.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Unscrewing the plastic cap to remove the tamper-proof seal, I replaced it and squirted a generous amount of the jelly onto my hot toast. I was surprised by the clearness of it but, undeterred, I bit in.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was not what I imagined Kentucky to taste like. I was disappointed by its glycerin flavor and viscous mouthfeel. \u003cstrong>And it was not organic.\u003c/strong> My friends from there are colorful and interesting, so why wasn’t the official jelly of The Bluegrass State the same? I tried to imagine Kat and Jackie spreading it on their muffins in the morning. And then I immediately tried to imagine something else.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>KY jelly does a great disservice to The Great Commonwealth, no matter what gynecologists may think of it. When I think of Kentucky, I think of bourbon, racehorses, summer heat, bourbon, cherries, and bourbon. I think of good old-fashioned traditions upheld like Derby Day and the making of \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Burgoo\">burgoo\u003c/a> and hot brown. And though I may think of \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uiVuvzWThfU\">Loretta Lynn using Crisco\u003c/a> in her pie, I never, ever think of her using KY Jelly.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Old-Fashioned-Kentucky-Jelly.png\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Old-Fashioned-Kentucky-Jelly.png\" alt=\"Old-Fashioned Kentucky Jelly. Photo: Michael Procopio\" width=\"611\" height=\"611\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-59548\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Old Fashioned Kentucky Jelly\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>I decided to make my own Kentucky jelly, the old-fashioned way, just to take the bad taste out of my mouth. And when I say “old-fashioned,” I mean like the cocktail of the same name. Though my friends from The Hemp State might disagree, this recipe is how I imagine their signature spread should be:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sticky, sweet, a whiff of bourbon, and the gentle kick of a thoroughbred thrown in for good measure.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Makes two 8 ounce jars of KY jelly.\u003c/strong> Keep one for yourself and give the other to someone you’d like to see use it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>1/2 cups Kentucky bourbon\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 1/2 cups black cherry juice (Knudsen makes a great one using cherries and nothing else, which is ideal.)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 cup of sugar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3 or 4 good dashes of orange bitters\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>The peel of 1/2 of an orange (large pieces are best, because you’ll want easy removal.)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 teaspoon Aleppo pepper (or chile flakes, if you want a little extra heat.)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 teaspoon calcium water (powder comes with your packet of Pomona Universal Pectin)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3/4 teaspoon of powdered Pomona’s Universal Pectin mixed with:\u003cbr>\n 1 teaspoon of granulated sugar\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003col>\n\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cp> \t\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Pouring-Jelly.png\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Pouring-Jelly-190x190.png\" alt=\"Pouring Kentucky Jelly. Photo: Michael Procopio\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignright size-thumbnail wp-image-59549\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cli>In a medium-sized, heavy-bottomed pot, add bourbon, cherry juice, orange peel, bitters, sugar, lemon juice, and pepper flakes. Bring to a boil, then turn off the heat and let stand for 30 minutes to allow the flavors to mingle properly.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Remove orange peel. Add calcium water and stir into your liquid. Add the sugar/pectin mixture, bring to a boil, and stir, stir, stir to prevent the pectin from clumping. To see if the concoction has gelled to you liking, place a small spoonful onto a chilled plate and see how it sets up when cool. Too firm? Add a little more juice and try again. Too runny? Add a little more pectin and see what happens.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Pour hot jelly in to clean, sterilized jars and process according to instructions from the \u003ca href=\"http://nchfp.uga.edu/how/can_home.html\">National Center for Home Food Preservation\u003c/a>.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>To serve: spread it on toast, on crackers, on cheese, on any food stuff that seems in need of lubrication.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Homemade Peeps, And More Easter Treats, A La Thomas Keller",
"title": "Homemade Peeps, And More Easter Treats, A La Thomas Keller",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59160\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 624px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/bouchon_eggs.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/bouchon_eggs.jpg\" alt=\"Marshmallow eggs made with homemade flavored sugar are a colorful treat at Thomas Keller's Bouchon Bakery in Beverly Hills, Calif. To make them, pipe homemade marshmallow into hollow plastic eggs. Photo: Doriane Raiman for NPR\" width=\"624\" height=\"351\" class=\"size-full wp-image-59160\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Marshmallow eggs made with homemade flavored sugar are a colorful treat at Thomas Keller's Bouchon Bakery in Beverly Hills, Calif. To make them, pipe homemade marshmallow into hollow plastic eggs. Photo: Doriane Raiman for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/03/29/175599684/homemade-peeps-and-more-easter-treats-a-la-thomas-keller\">Morning Edition\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n [audio src=\"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2013/03/20130329_me_18.mp3\"] \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Post by Camila Domonoske, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/03/29/175599684/homemade-peeps-and-more-easter-treats-a-la-thomas-keller\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (3/29/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/books/titles/175620951/bouchon-bakery\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/bouchon-bakery-290x290.jpg\" alt=\"Bouchon Bakery by Thomas Keller and Sebastien Rouxel\" width=\"290\" height=\"290\" class=\"alignleft size-medium wp-image-59162\">\u003c/a>After 40 long days of Lenten abstention, Easter is a time for indulgence. And for those of us who don't observe Lent — well, who can resist all those chocolate bunnies? It's a time for sweets, with or without an excuse.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But if you're looking for Easter indulgences that are a little more refined than Peeps and jelly beans,\u003cstrong>\u003c/strong> take a cue from renowned chef Thomas Keller, whose \u003ca href=\"http://bouchonbistro.com/\">Bouchon\u003c/a> restaurants are as famous for their baked goods as they are for their bistro fare.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Earlier this week, NPR's Renee Montagne visited the kitchen of the Bouchon restaurant and bakery in Beverly Hills, Calif., for a taste of some of Keller's takes on classic Easter sweets.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Most of us can't sneak a taste of Keller's hot cross bun frosting, like Montagne did, but thanks to the cookbook \u003cem>Bouchon Bakery\u003c/em>, which Keller co-authored, we can re-create some of those treats at home. Be warned, though: Keller's standards are exacting, and reproducing some of his items requires extra prep work — and maybe some shopping for new kitchen tools.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For precision baking, Keller says a scale is crucial; flour can easily shift in density, so measuring in cups is dangerously inaccurate, he argues.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Throw away your measuring cups,\" Keller tells Montagne. \"Buy yourself a gram scale instead.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Other items you might need that may not be kitchen staples, like acetate sheets and powdered food coloring, make cooking easier and cleanup far less stressful.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Keller led NPR through the process of making three Easter treats from his kitchen. Recipes for all three can be found farther down.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59159\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/bouchonhot-cross-buns.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/bouchonhot-cross-buns-290x217.jpg\" alt='The Bouchon Bakery cookbook demonstrates how to apply the frosting \"cross\" on a pan of hot cross buns. Photo: Deborah Jones/Artisan Books' width=\"290\" height=\"217\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-59159\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Bouchon Bakery cookbook demonstrates how to apply the frosting \"cross\" on a pan of hot cross buns.\u003cbr> Photo: Deborah Jones/Artisan Books\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Hot Cross Buns\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"#buns\">Hot cross buns\u003c/a> date back hundreds of years and have traditionally been made on Good Friday. These dough rolls marked with a cross had a religious component, certainly, but they're also symbolic of another kind of devotion, Keller explains. \"Eating the hot cross bun with your friend meant that you'd be friends for life, so it really signified that kind of friendship in a positive way,\" he says. \"And then there's another myth: If you kept a bun for an entire year, it would not go moldy, and if you became sick and you ate it, it would cure whatever sickness you have.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bouchon's version is a rich brioche roll studded with dried currants and cranberries. Pastry chefs top the brioche with a cross of white confectioners' sugar frosting, spiced with cinnamon and cardamom. Myths aside, don't let them sit for a year: They're best eaten the same day they're baked.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Marshmallow Eggs\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Keller has fond memories of that springtime staple, Peeps: \"They're very cute,\" he says, \"and, you know, they remind us of when we were kids. I mean, we ate those all the time.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bouchon's egg-shaped, homemade \u003ca href=\"#eggs\">marshmallows\u003c/a> turn that childhood memory into a grown-up treat. The marshmallow imparts a richness that can come as a surprise — Montagne describes it as \"almost like thick cream.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59163\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/bouchon-carrotmuffins.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/bouchon-carrotmuffins-290x216.jpg\" alt=\"Thomas Keller's Bouchon Bakery makes a variety of carrot-themed desserts — carrot cake, carrot muffins and carrot cupcakes — to celebrate Eas Photo: Doriane Raiman for NPR\" width=\"290\" height=\"216\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-59163\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Thomas Keller's Bouchon Bakery makes a variety of carrot-themed desserts — carrot cake, carrot muffins and carrot cupcakes — to celebrate Eas Photo: Doriane Raiman for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Carrot Muffins\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The last recipe is a little less obviously Easter-related, but Keller says \u003ca href=\"#muffins\">carrot muffins\u003c/a> are a holiday staple. \"Bunnies eat carrots. We've got to have carrots involved in Easter, because that's Bugs Bunny's favorite vegetable,\" he jokes. And there's a benefit to having carrot muffins on your table of holiday indulgences: \"Everybody loves it, because in many ways you think it's really, really healthy for you,\" Keller says. \"It's a way of being sinful, but also being responsible to some health concerns.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you're making carrot muffins at home, the key is to start with the right kind of carrots: the small, skinny ones that come in bunches, rather than the larger \"horse carrots\" you might use for soup. \"We want to have the sweetest possible carrot that we can get,\" Keller says, which means carrots less than an inch in diameter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Look below for Keller's recipes for hot cross buns, marshmallow eggs and carrot muffins. Be sure to set aside ample time for these treats — they are all multiday projects, with some sort of overnight component. After all, you don't cook your way to three Michelin stars by taking shortcuts.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>\u003ca name=\"buns\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Hot Cross Buns \u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 12 buns\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For The Buns\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3/4 cup (122 grams) dried currants\u003cbr>1/2 cup (61 grams) dried cranberries\u003cbr>1/2 teaspoon (3 grams) vanilla paste\u003cbr>Brioche Dough For Hot Cross Buns (recipe follows)\u003cbr>Egg Wash (recipe follows)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For The Icing\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 1/4 cups (258 grams) powdered sugar\u003cbr>3/8 teaspoon (1 grams) ground cinnamon\u003cbr>3/8 teaspoon (1 grams) ground cardamom\u003cbr>2 1/2 tablespoons (40 grams) whole milk\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This recipe was developed by Bouchon Bakery's head baker, Matthew McDonald. The buns are loaded with currants and cranberries and piped with an icing spiced with cinnamon and cardamom. It's the beguiling addition of cardamom to just the right amount of cinnamon in the icing, and the way the spices play off the fruit, that gives these buns their zing. Hot cross buns are an English tradition on Good Friday, but they're so good we hope you'll make them all year round. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>You'll need a quarter sheet pan and a disposable pastry bag. Buns baked in a convection oven will have a slightly higher rise and a more even color.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For The Buns \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Combine the currants and cranberries in a medium bowl and pour 2 cups boiling water over them. Let sit for 5 minutes to plump the fruit, then drain and pat dry with paper towels. Dry the bowl, return the fruit to it, and toss with the vanilla paste. Set aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Spray a large bowl with nonstick spray. Run a bowl scraper around the sides and down to the bottom of the bowl of brioche dough to release the dough and turn it out onto a lightly floured work surface, adding flour only as needed to keep it from sticking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59166\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/bouchonhotcrossbuns2.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/bouchonhotcrossbuns2-290x217.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Thomas Keller demonstrates how to apply homemade icing to his hot cross buns. Photo: Doriane Raiman for NPR\" width=\"290\" height=\"217\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-59166\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Thomas Keller demonstrates how to apply homemade icing to his hot cross buns. Photo: Doriane Raiman for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>With your hands, gently pat the dough into a rectangular shape. Pour the currant-cranberry mixture onto the dough and knead it into the dough (which will be sticky) to distribute it evenly. Pat the dough into a rectangle again.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Stretch the left side of the dough out and fold it over two-thirds of the dough, then stretch and fold it from the right side to the opposite side, as if you were folding a letter. Repeat the process, working from the bottom and then the top. Turn the dough over, lift it up with a bench scraper, and place it seam side down in the prepared bowl. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap or a clean dish towel and let the dough sit at room temperature for 45 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Repeat the stretching and folding process, then return the dough to the bowl, seam side down, cover, and let sit for another 45 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Spray the quarter sheet pan with nonstick spray. Line the bottom with parchment paper and spray the paper.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Use the bowl scraper to release the dough and turn it out onto a lightly floured work surface. Using a bench scraper, divide the dough into 12 equal portions (78 grams each). Cup your fingers around a portion of dough and, using the palm of your hand, roll it against the work surface to form a ball. Continue to roll until the dough is completely smooth. Repeat with the remaining dough. (When you become proficient at rolling with one hand, you can use both hands and roll 2 portions at a time.) Set the balls on the prepared pan in 3 rows of 4. Brush the tops with egg wash.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cover the pan with a plastic tub or a cardboard box and let proof for 1 to 1 1/2 hours, until the balls have risen and are touching.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preheat the oven to 325 F (convection) or 350 F (standard).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Brush the tops of the buns with egg wash again. Bake for 17 to 22 minutes in a convection oven, 25 to 30 minutes in a standard oven, until the tops are a rich golden brown and, when tested with a toothpick, the centers are baked through. Set the pan on a cooling rack and let cool completely. (If freezing, do not ice the buns at this point.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For The Icing\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sift the sugar, cinnamon and cardamom into the bowl of a stand mixer. Fit the mixer with the paddle attachment and mix on the lowest setting for about 15 seconds to distribute the spices evenly. With the mixer running, slowly add the milk. Scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl, increase the speed to low, and mix for 30 seconds to 1 minute, until smooth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Transfer the icing to the pastry bag. Cut off 1/4 inch of the tip. Starting at the left side of the top corner bun, pipe a continuous strip of icing across the center of the first row of 3 buns. Repeat with the remaining 3 rows. Then repeat in the opposite direction, across the 3 rows of 4 buns, working in the opposite direction, to create a cross of frosting on each bun. Serve the whole pan, or cut into individual buns.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The buns are best the day they are baked, but they can be stored, before icing, wrapped tightly in a few layers of plastic wrap or in a single layer in a covered container at room temperature for up to 3 days or frozen for up to 1 week (see note on defrosting frozen baked brioche pastries).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>* Note on freezing unbaked brioche pastries: Unbaked brioche pastries can be frozen after they are formed, but before they are proofed, wrapped in a few layers of plastic wrap, for up to 1 week. When ready to use, remove from the freezer and proof the dough as directed, keeping in mind that the proofing may take up to 5 hours.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>* Note on defrosting frozen baked brioche pastries: Defrost, still in the plastic wrap or in the container, in the refrigerator. Leaving the pastries wrapped or in the container means any condensation will form on the outside, not on the pastries. Place on a sheet pan and refresh in a 325°F oven (standard) for about 5 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Recipe: Brioche Dough For Hot Cross Buns\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 1/2 cups plus 2 1/2 tablespoons (372 grams) all-purpose flour\u003cbr>2 3/8 teaspoons (8 grams) instant yeast\u003cbr>3 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons (44 grams) granulated sugar\u003cbr>1 1/2 teaspoons (9 grams) fine sea salt\u003cbr>1/2 cup plus 3 1/2 tablespoons (186 grams) eggs\u003cbr>1/4 cup (63 grams) whole milk\u003cbr>5.8 ounces (167 grams) unsalted butter cut into 1/2 -inch cubes\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Brioche is a bread that's enriched with butter and eggs. There are different ways of making it, with different proportions of butter. Everything should be at room temperature so the dough comes together beautifully. The dough then gets folded and is fermented in the refrigerator overnight.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To mix the dough, place the flour and yeast in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook and mix for about 15 seconds to distribute the yeast evenly. Add all of the remaining dough ingredients, except the butter, and mix on low speed for 4 minutes. Continue to mix on low speed for 30 minutes. (At this point there will be some dough sticking to the sides of the bowl.) Add the butter a few pieces at a time, incorporating each addition before adding the next. Stop and scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl and push the dough off the hook. Continue to mix for 10 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Recipe: Egg Wash\u003c/strong>\u003cstrong>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Break 1 or more eggs, as needed, into a small bowl and whip with a fork or small whisk to combine the white(s) and yolk(s) well. Strain through a fine-mesh strainer before using.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>* Note: We use egg washes often. If you want a nice shine on a dough, give the dough two brushings of it: The first brushing acts as a sealer, and the second is more like a glaze. At the bakery, because we egg-wash great volumes of products, we put the egg wash, strained, into a spray gun, paint gun or airbrush. This not only gives us a uniform coating, it's also very gentle on the dough, which is important if it's a proofed and delicate croissant, for example. If you're only egg-washing a small quantity, use a pastry brush.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Excerpted from \u003c/em>Bouchon Bakery\u003cem> by Thomas Keller and Sebastien Rouxel (Artisan Books). Copyright 2012.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>\u003ca name=\"eggs\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Marshmallow Eggs\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59161\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 193px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/bouchon_keller.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/bouchon_keller-193x290.jpg\" alt=\"Thomas Keller demonstrates how to prepare and open his recipe for his marshmallow eggs at his Bouchon Bakery in Beverly Hills. Photo: Doriane Raiman for NPR\" width=\"193\" height=\"290\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-59161\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Thomas Keller demonstrates how to prepare and open his recipe for his marshmallow eggs at his Bouchon Bakery in Beverly Hills. Photo: Doriane Raiman for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 12 eggs\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Marshmallows, just mixed and still warm (recipes follow)\u003cbr>1/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon (90 grams) white or colored decorating sugar, store-bought or homemade (recipes follow)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>At Easter, the team loves to make marshmallow eggs. When you serve them in all kinds of colors, they're a joy to behold, especially for kids. We make different flavors and colors, coat them in various decorative sugars, and place them in egg cartons. For vanilla eggs, we use plain sugar, but for the raspberry we use our raspberry sugar and for the lemon, our lemon sugar. When people first open the carton, they think it's filled with dyed Easter eggs, not marshmallows. Be sure to buy sturdy plastic eggs to use as molds; the cheaper ones are really flimsy. Note that the marshmallows and decorating sugar should rest overnight before coating the eggs.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>You'll need twelve two-piece plastic eggs, a clean egg carton, and a pastry bag with a \u003c/em>\u003cem>1/2-inch plain tip.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If the plastic eggs are new, open them, wash them and dry thoroughly. Spray the inside of both halves of each egg with nonstick spray and set them in the egg carton.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fill the pastry bag with the warm marshmallow mixture. Holding the tip close to the bottom of an egg half, slowly pull up as you fill the half completely; try not to leave any air pockets. Fill the other half and fit the top and bottom together — there will be some resistance, but they must be secure to form a perfectly shaped egg. Wipe off the excess marshmallow that oozes from the egg with a damp paper towel. Repeat with the remaining eggs. Stand the filled eggs in the egg carton and let them sit at room temperature overnight.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Put the decorating sugar in a small bowl. Remove the eggs from the molds. Toss the eggs in the sugar and then stand them in the egg carton.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If they will be served within a few hours, let the eggs sit at room temperature. For longer storage, place the egg carton in a large covered container for up to 2 weeks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For Vanilla Marshmallows\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes about 4 dozen 1-inch marshmallows (250 grams/8.8 ounces)\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup (5 grams) powdered sugar\u003cbr>1/2 cup (6.4 grams) cornstarch\u003cbr>4 sheets (9.6 grams) silver leaf gelatin\u003cbr>1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons (87 grams) egg whites\u003cbr>1/4 vanilla bean, split lengthwise\u003cbr>1 cup plus 2 tablespoons (225 grams) granulated sugar\u003cbr>1/2 cup (112 grams) water\u003cbr>2 1/2 tablespoons (50 grams) light corn syrup\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Marshmallows may seem mysterious and complex, but they're really easy — nothing more than meringue set with gelatin. If you can make a meringue, you can make your own marshmallows. They're playful and fun, and they can be made in different flavors. We make lemon, raspberry and vanilla marshmallows, but you could add jams or pistachio paste for different flavors (add 15 to 20 percent of the weight of the egg whites and sugar).\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>You'll need an 8-inch-square baking pan, an 8-inch-square piece of acetate, and a Thermapen or other candy thermometer.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mix the powdered sugar and cornstarch together. Line the baking pan with plastic wrap and sprinkle the plastic wrap generously with the powdered sugar mixture; set the remainder aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place the gelatin in a bowl of ice water to soften.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Spray one side of the piece of acetate with nonstick spray; set aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Remove the gelatin from the water and squeeze out excess water. Place the gelatin in a small metal bowl set over a small pot of simmering water and melt it (do not let it simmer), then reduce the heat and keep it warm.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, place the egg whites in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment. Scrape the seeds from the vanilla bean and add the seeds to the egg whites.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Combine the granulated sugar, water and corn syrup in a large saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium-high heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar, then simmer for about 5 minutes, until the syrup reaches 250 F/121.1 C.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Letting the syrup continue to cook, turn the mixer to medium speed. The goal is to have the whites at medium peaks when the syrup reaches 281 to 284 F/138 to 140 C. Should the whites reach stiff peaks before the syrup reaches the proper temperature, reduce the mixer speed to the lowest setting.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59165\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 624px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/bouchoneggs.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/bouchoneggs.jpg\" alt=\"After the marshmallow has set, open the plastic shell and dip the egg in flavored and colored sugar, as Thomas Keller demonstrates here. Photo: Doriane Raiman for NPR\" width=\"624\" height=\"350\" class=\"size-full wp-image-59165\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">After the marshmallow has set, open the plastic shell and dip the egg in flavored and colored sugar, as Thomas Keller demonstrates here. Photo: Doriane Raiman for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>When the syrup reaches 281 to 284 F/138 to 140 C, remove it from the heat. Turn the mixer to medium speed and slowly add the syrup to the egg whites, pouring it between the side of the bowl and the whisk. Pour in the gelatin, increase the speed to medium-high, and mix for about 5 minutes, until the mixture is thickened, glossy and warm but not hot.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Spray a spatula with nonstick spray. Spread the marshmallow evenly in the prepared pan. Top with the acetate, sprayed side down, and gently press it against the marshmallow to make the top perfectly smooth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Set a piece of parchment paper larger than the marshmallow on a large cutting board.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Remove the sheet of acetate. Coat the top of the marshmallow with some of the reserved powdered sugar mixture. Flip the marshmallow onto the parchment paper, remove the plastic wrap, and sprinkle with more of the powdered sugar mixture as necessary.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It can be difficult to cut marshmallows evenly. Spray a large chef's knife with nonstick spray and trim the sides of the marshmallow square, then cut into 1-inch cubes (or other shapes), using a ruler as a guide. Clean and respray the knife before each cut. If the marshmallows are sticky when you separate them, dust them lightly with additional powdered sugar mixture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The marshmallows can be stored in a covered container at room temperature for up to 3 days.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For Raspberry Marshmallows\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Omit the vanilla bean. If desired, add 2 drops red food coloring, preferably Chefmaster Red Red, to the warm marshmallow mixture and mix just to combine. Remove the bowl from the mixer stand and gently whisk in 12 grams/2 tablespoons raspberry powder. Spread the marshmallow in the pan and proceed as directed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For Lemon Marshmallows\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Omit the vanilla bean. If desired, add 6 drops yellow food coloring, preferably Chefmaster Lemon Yellow, to the warm marshmallow mixture and mix just to combine. Add the grated zest of 2 lemons (12 grams/2 tablespoons) and mix to combine, then spread the marshmallow in the pan and proceed as directed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Recipe: Colored Decorating Sugar\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For Raspberry Sugar\u003cem>\u003cbr>\u003c/em>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup plus 1 1/2 tablespoons (100 grams) large-crystal sparkling sugar\u003cbr>6 drops diluted citric acid (see Note)\u003cbr>1/2 teaspoons (1 gram) dehydrated raspberry powder, or as needed\u003cbr>Powdered oil-soluble red food coloring\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For Lemon Sugar\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup plus 1 1/2 tablespoons (100 grams) large-crystal sparkling sugar\u003cbr>6 drops diluted citric acid (see Note)\u003cbr>3/4 teaspoons (1.5 grams) grated zest of 1/2 lemon (use a rasp grater)\u003cbr>Powdered oil-soluble yellow food coloring\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Don't be tempted to use liquid food coloring; it won't work here. If you'd like, wear a pair of plastic gloves to avoid staining your hands.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place the sugar in a small bowl. Stir in the citric acid, raspberry powder or lemon zest, and just the amount of food coloring that fits on the tip of a small paring knife (less than a pinch), then use your hands to work the mixture together. If you'd like, add a little additional powder and/or food coloring. Spread the sugar on a baking sheet and let it dry overnight at room temperature.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>* Note: To make diluted citric acid, combine 3/8 teaspoon (2 grams) citric acid and 3/4 teaspoon (2 grams) water in a small cup and stir to dissolve the citric acid.\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Excerpted from \u003c/em>Bouchon Bakery\u003cem> by Thomas Keller and Sebastien Rouxel (Artisan Books). Copyright 2012.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>\u003ca name=\"muffins\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Carrot Muffins\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59164\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/bouchoncarrot-muffins.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/bouchoncarrot-muffins-290x290.jpg\" alt=\"The Bouchon Bakery cookbook highlights the streusel topping on Keller's carrot muffin Photo: Deborah Jones/Artisan Books\" width=\"290\" height=\"290\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-59164\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Bouchon Bakery cookbook highlights the streusel topping on Keller's carrot muffin Photo: Deborah Jones/Artisan Books\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 6 muffins\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For The Batter\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/4 cups plus 2 teaspoons (180 grams) all-purpose flour\u003cbr>1/2 plus 1/8 teaspoon (3.11 grams) baking soda\u003cbr>1/4 teaspoon (1 grams) baking powder\u003cbr>3/4 plus 1/8 teaspoon (2.3 grams) ground cinnamon\u003cbr>1/2 plus 1/8 teaspoon (2 grams) kosher salt\u003cbr>1 cup plus 2 teaspoons (207 grams) granulated sugar\u003cbr>1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons (142 grams) canola oil\u003cbr>1/4 vanilla bean, split lengthwise\u003cbr>1/3 cup (80 grams) eggs\u003cbr>1 3/4 cups (212 grams) shredded carrots\u003cbr>Generous 1 1/4 cups (180 grams) Oat Streusel Topping (recipe follows)\u003cbr clear=\"all\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>You'll need a 6-cup jumbo muffin pan and muffin papers.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This is a good basic carrot muffin, and we sprinkle it with a great oat streusel for even more flavor and texture.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Carrots — and other vegetables, such as zucchini — add moisture to muffin and cake batters. Carrots are so plentiful that we often take them for granted, but all carrots are not alike. I hope you'll pay a little extra for bunch carrots, carrots still with their tops, rather than the ones in plastic bags. The quality makes a big difference when they're a major part of the recipe.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This recipe uses vegetable oil, not butter, and if you omit the streusel, it is dairy free.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place the flour in a medium bowl. Sift in the baking soda, baking powder and cinnamon. Add the salt and whisk together.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Combine the sugar and oil in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment and mix on low speed for about 1 minute. Scrape the seeds from the vanilla bean, add them to the sugar mixture, and mix for 30 seconds to distribute the seeds evenly. Scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl, add the eggs, and mix on low speed for about 1 minute, until just incorporated. Add the dry ingredients in 2 additions, mixing on low speed for 15 seconds after each, or until just combined.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Remove the bowl from the mixer stand and scrape the bottom of the bowl to incorporate any dry ingredients that may have settled there. Stir in the carrots. Transfer the batter to a covered container and refrigerate overnight, or for up to 36 hours.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To bake the muffins: Preheat the oven to 425 F (standard). Line the muffin pan with the muffin papers and spray the papers with nonstick spray.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Spoon the batter evenly into the papers, stopping 3/8 inch from the top (135 grams each). Sprinkle 30 grams/3 tablespoons of the streusel on top of each muffin and press gently into the batter. Place the pan in the oven, lower the oven temperature to 325 F, and bake for 40 to 43 minutes, or until the muffins are golden brown and a skewer inserted in the center comes out clean. Set the pan on a cooling rack and cool completely.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The muffins are best the day they are baked, but they can be wrapped individually in a few layers of plastic wrap or stored in a single layer in a covered container at room temperature for up to 3 days or frozen for up to 1 week.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For The Oat Streusel Topping\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 cups (544 grams)\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup (142 grams) all-purpose flour\u003cbr>1 1/4 cups plus 1 tablespoon (107 grams) old-fashioned oats\u003cbr>1/4 cup plus 3 1/2 tablespoons (106 grams) toasted wheat germ\u003cbr>1/2 cup plus 2 1/2 teaspoons (lightly packed) (50 grams) light brown sugar\u003cbr>2 tablespoons plus 1 1/4 teaspoons (29 grams) granulated sugar\u003cbr>1/2 teaspoon (1.2 grams) ground cinnamon\u003cbr>1/2 teaspoon (0.5 gram) freshly grated nutmeg\u003cbr>1/8 teaspoon (0.4 gram) kosher salt\u003cbr>1/4 vanilla bean, split lengthwise\u003cbr>4 ounces (113 grams) cold unsalted butter, cut into 1/4 -inch pieces\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Combine all of the ingredients except the vanilla bean and butter in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, and mix on low speed to combine. Scrape the seeds from the vanilla bean, add them to the dry mixture, and mix until evenly distributed. Toss in the butter and mix for about 1 minute, or until the butter is incorporated, with no large chunks remaining.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Transfer to a covered container or a resealable plastic bag. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours, or up to 2 days, or freeze for up to 1 month. Use the streusel while it is cold.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>* Note on mixing muffin batter: When mixing a muffin batter, it is important not to overwhip the eggs, as that could cause the muffins to expand too much during baking and then deflate. The mixture may look broken after you whip in the eggs, but that is fine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>* Note on defrosting frozen baked muffins: Defrost the muffins still in the container so any condensation will form on the outside of the container, and not on the muffins. Place on a sheet pan and refresh in a 325 F oven (standard) for about 5 minutes, if desired.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Excerpted from \u003c/em>Bouchon Bakery\u003cem> by Thomas Keller and Sebastien Rouxel (Artisan Books). Copyright 2012.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "The renowned chef may be famous for his Michelin-star-winning restaurants, but he also runs a string of gourmet bakeries. He shares some favorite confections for Easter, with recipes for hot cross buns, marshmallow eggs and carrot muffins.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59160\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 624px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/bouchon_eggs.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/bouchon_eggs.jpg\" alt=\"Marshmallow eggs made with homemade flavored sugar are a colorful treat at Thomas Keller's Bouchon Bakery in Beverly Hills, Calif. To make them, pipe homemade marshmallow into hollow plastic eggs. Photo: Doriane Raiman for NPR\" width=\"624\" height=\"351\" class=\"size-full wp-image-59160\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Marshmallow eggs made with homemade flavored sugar are a colorful treat at Thomas Keller's Bouchon Bakery in Beverly Hills, Calif. To make them, pipe homemade marshmallow into hollow plastic eggs. Photo: Doriane Raiman for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/03/29/175599684/homemade-peeps-and-more-easter-treats-a-la-thomas-keller\">Morning Edition\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n \u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Post by Camila Domonoske, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/03/29/175599684/homemade-peeps-and-more-easter-treats-a-la-thomas-keller\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (3/29/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/books/titles/175620951/bouchon-bakery\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/bouchon-bakery-290x290.jpg\" alt=\"Bouchon Bakery by Thomas Keller and Sebastien Rouxel\" width=\"290\" height=\"290\" class=\"alignleft size-medium wp-image-59162\">\u003c/a>After 40 long days of Lenten abstention, Easter is a time for indulgence. And for those of us who don't observe Lent — well, who can resist all those chocolate bunnies? It's a time for sweets, with or without an excuse.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But if you're looking for Easter indulgences that are a little more refined than Peeps and jelly beans,\u003cstrong>\u003c/strong> take a cue from renowned chef Thomas Keller, whose \u003ca href=\"http://bouchonbistro.com/\">Bouchon\u003c/a> restaurants are as famous for their baked goods as they are for their bistro fare.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Earlier this week, NPR's Renee Montagne visited the kitchen of the Bouchon restaurant and bakery in Beverly Hills, Calif., for a taste of some of Keller's takes on classic Easter sweets.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Most of us can't sneak a taste of Keller's hot cross bun frosting, like Montagne did, but thanks to the cookbook \u003cem>Bouchon Bakery\u003c/em>, which Keller co-authored, we can re-create some of those treats at home. Be warned, though: Keller's standards are exacting, and reproducing some of his items requires extra prep work — and maybe some shopping for new kitchen tools.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For precision baking, Keller says a scale is crucial; flour can easily shift in density, so measuring in cups is dangerously inaccurate, he argues.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Throw away your measuring cups,\" Keller tells Montagne. \"Buy yourself a gram scale instead.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Other items you might need that may not be kitchen staples, like acetate sheets and powdered food coloring, make cooking easier and cleanup far less stressful.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Keller led NPR through the process of making three Easter treats from his kitchen. Recipes for all three can be found farther down.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59159\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/bouchonhot-cross-buns.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/bouchonhot-cross-buns-290x217.jpg\" alt='The Bouchon Bakery cookbook demonstrates how to apply the frosting \"cross\" on a pan of hot cross buns. Photo: Deborah Jones/Artisan Books' width=\"290\" height=\"217\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-59159\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Bouchon Bakery cookbook demonstrates how to apply the frosting \"cross\" on a pan of hot cross buns.\u003cbr> Photo: Deborah Jones/Artisan Books\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Hot Cross Buns\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"#buns\">Hot cross buns\u003c/a> date back hundreds of years and have traditionally been made on Good Friday. These dough rolls marked with a cross had a religious component, certainly, but they're also symbolic of another kind of devotion, Keller explains. \"Eating the hot cross bun with your friend meant that you'd be friends for life, so it really signified that kind of friendship in a positive way,\" he says. \"And then there's another myth: If you kept a bun for an entire year, it would not go moldy, and if you became sick and you ate it, it would cure whatever sickness you have.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bouchon's version is a rich brioche roll studded with dried currants and cranberries. Pastry chefs top the brioche with a cross of white confectioners' sugar frosting, spiced with cinnamon and cardamom. Myths aside, don't let them sit for a year: They're best eaten the same day they're baked.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Marshmallow Eggs\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Keller has fond memories of that springtime staple, Peeps: \"They're very cute,\" he says, \"and, you know, they remind us of when we were kids. I mean, we ate those all the time.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bouchon's egg-shaped, homemade \u003ca href=\"#eggs\">marshmallows\u003c/a> turn that childhood memory into a grown-up treat. The marshmallow imparts a richness that can come as a surprise — Montagne describes it as \"almost like thick cream.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59163\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/bouchon-carrotmuffins.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/bouchon-carrotmuffins-290x216.jpg\" alt=\"Thomas Keller's Bouchon Bakery makes a variety of carrot-themed desserts — carrot cake, carrot muffins and carrot cupcakes — to celebrate Eas Photo: Doriane Raiman for NPR\" width=\"290\" height=\"216\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-59163\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Thomas Keller's Bouchon Bakery makes a variety of carrot-themed desserts — carrot cake, carrot muffins and carrot cupcakes — to celebrate Eas Photo: Doriane Raiman for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Carrot Muffins\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The last recipe is a little less obviously Easter-related, but Keller says \u003ca href=\"#muffins\">carrot muffins\u003c/a> are a holiday staple. \"Bunnies eat carrots. We've got to have carrots involved in Easter, because that's Bugs Bunny's favorite vegetable,\" he jokes. And there's a benefit to having carrot muffins on your table of holiday indulgences: \"Everybody loves it, because in many ways you think it's really, really healthy for you,\" Keller says. \"It's a way of being sinful, but also being responsible to some health concerns.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you're making carrot muffins at home, the key is to start with the right kind of carrots: the small, skinny ones that come in bunches, rather than the larger \"horse carrots\" you might use for soup. \"We want to have the sweetest possible carrot that we can get,\" Keller says, which means carrots less than an inch in diameter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Look below for Keller's recipes for hot cross buns, marshmallow eggs and carrot muffins. Be sure to set aside ample time for these treats — they are all multiday projects, with some sort of overnight component. After all, you don't cook your way to three Michelin stars by taking shortcuts.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>\u003ca name=\"buns\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Hot Cross Buns \u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 12 buns\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For The Buns\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3/4 cup (122 grams) dried currants\u003cbr>1/2 cup (61 grams) dried cranberries\u003cbr>1/2 teaspoon (3 grams) vanilla paste\u003cbr>Brioche Dough For Hot Cross Buns (recipe follows)\u003cbr>Egg Wash (recipe follows)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For The Icing\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 1/4 cups (258 grams) powdered sugar\u003cbr>3/8 teaspoon (1 grams) ground cinnamon\u003cbr>3/8 teaspoon (1 grams) ground cardamom\u003cbr>2 1/2 tablespoons (40 grams) whole milk\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This recipe was developed by Bouchon Bakery's head baker, Matthew McDonald. The buns are loaded with currants and cranberries and piped with an icing spiced with cinnamon and cardamom. It's the beguiling addition of cardamom to just the right amount of cinnamon in the icing, and the way the spices play off the fruit, that gives these buns their zing. Hot cross buns are an English tradition on Good Friday, but they're so good we hope you'll make them all year round. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>You'll need a quarter sheet pan and a disposable pastry bag. Buns baked in a convection oven will have a slightly higher rise and a more even color.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For The Buns \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Combine the currants and cranberries in a medium bowl and pour 2 cups boiling water over them. Let sit for 5 minutes to plump the fruit, then drain and pat dry with paper towels. Dry the bowl, return the fruit to it, and toss with the vanilla paste. Set aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Spray a large bowl with nonstick spray. Run a bowl scraper around the sides and down to the bottom of the bowl of brioche dough to release the dough and turn it out onto a lightly floured work surface, adding flour only as needed to keep it from sticking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59166\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/bouchonhotcrossbuns2.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/bouchonhotcrossbuns2-290x217.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Thomas Keller demonstrates how to apply homemade icing to his hot cross buns. Photo: Doriane Raiman for NPR\" width=\"290\" height=\"217\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-59166\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Thomas Keller demonstrates how to apply homemade icing to his hot cross buns. Photo: Doriane Raiman for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>With your hands, gently pat the dough into a rectangular shape. Pour the currant-cranberry mixture onto the dough and knead it into the dough (which will be sticky) to distribute it evenly. Pat the dough into a rectangle again.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Stretch the left side of the dough out and fold it over two-thirds of the dough, then stretch and fold it from the right side to the opposite side, as if you were folding a letter. Repeat the process, working from the bottom and then the top. Turn the dough over, lift it up with a bench scraper, and place it seam side down in the prepared bowl. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap or a clean dish towel and let the dough sit at room temperature for 45 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Repeat the stretching and folding process, then return the dough to the bowl, seam side down, cover, and let sit for another 45 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Spray the quarter sheet pan with nonstick spray. Line the bottom with parchment paper and spray the paper.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Use the bowl scraper to release the dough and turn it out onto a lightly floured work surface. Using a bench scraper, divide the dough into 12 equal portions (78 grams each). Cup your fingers around a portion of dough and, using the palm of your hand, roll it against the work surface to form a ball. Continue to roll until the dough is completely smooth. Repeat with the remaining dough. (When you become proficient at rolling with one hand, you can use both hands and roll 2 portions at a time.) Set the balls on the prepared pan in 3 rows of 4. Brush the tops with egg wash.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cover the pan with a plastic tub or a cardboard box and let proof for 1 to 1 1/2 hours, until the balls have risen and are touching.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preheat the oven to 325 F (convection) or 350 F (standard).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Brush the tops of the buns with egg wash again. Bake for 17 to 22 minutes in a convection oven, 25 to 30 minutes in a standard oven, until the tops are a rich golden brown and, when tested with a toothpick, the centers are baked through. Set the pan on a cooling rack and let cool completely. (If freezing, do not ice the buns at this point.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For The Icing\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sift the sugar, cinnamon and cardamom into the bowl of a stand mixer. Fit the mixer with the paddle attachment and mix on the lowest setting for about 15 seconds to distribute the spices evenly. With the mixer running, slowly add the milk. Scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl, increase the speed to low, and mix for 30 seconds to 1 minute, until smooth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Transfer the icing to the pastry bag. Cut off 1/4 inch of the tip. Starting at the left side of the top corner bun, pipe a continuous strip of icing across the center of the first row of 3 buns. Repeat with the remaining 3 rows. Then repeat in the opposite direction, across the 3 rows of 4 buns, working in the opposite direction, to create a cross of frosting on each bun. Serve the whole pan, or cut into individual buns.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The buns are best the day they are baked, but they can be stored, before icing, wrapped tightly in a few layers of plastic wrap or in a single layer in a covered container at room temperature for up to 3 days or frozen for up to 1 week (see note on defrosting frozen baked brioche pastries).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>* Note on freezing unbaked brioche pastries: Unbaked brioche pastries can be frozen after they are formed, but before they are proofed, wrapped in a few layers of plastic wrap, for up to 1 week. When ready to use, remove from the freezer and proof the dough as directed, keeping in mind that the proofing may take up to 5 hours.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>* Note on defrosting frozen baked brioche pastries: Defrost, still in the plastic wrap or in the container, in the refrigerator. Leaving the pastries wrapped or in the container means any condensation will form on the outside, not on the pastries. Place on a sheet pan and refresh in a 325°F oven (standard) for about 5 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Recipe: Brioche Dough For Hot Cross Buns\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 1/2 cups plus 2 1/2 tablespoons (372 grams) all-purpose flour\u003cbr>2 3/8 teaspoons (8 grams) instant yeast\u003cbr>3 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons (44 grams) granulated sugar\u003cbr>1 1/2 teaspoons (9 grams) fine sea salt\u003cbr>1/2 cup plus 3 1/2 tablespoons (186 grams) eggs\u003cbr>1/4 cup (63 grams) whole milk\u003cbr>5.8 ounces (167 grams) unsalted butter cut into 1/2 -inch cubes\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Brioche is a bread that's enriched with butter and eggs. There are different ways of making it, with different proportions of butter. Everything should be at room temperature so the dough comes together beautifully. The dough then gets folded and is fermented in the refrigerator overnight.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To mix the dough, place the flour and yeast in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook and mix for about 15 seconds to distribute the yeast evenly. Add all of the remaining dough ingredients, except the butter, and mix on low speed for 4 minutes. Continue to mix on low speed for 30 minutes. (At this point there will be some dough sticking to the sides of the bowl.) Add the butter a few pieces at a time, incorporating each addition before adding the next. Stop and scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl and push the dough off the hook. Continue to mix for 10 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Recipe: Egg Wash\u003c/strong>\u003cstrong>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Break 1 or more eggs, as needed, into a small bowl and whip with a fork or small whisk to combine the white(s) and yolk(s) well. Strain through a fine-mesh strainer before using.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>* Note: We use egg washes often. If you want a nice shine on a dough, give the dough two brushings of it: The first brushing acts as a sealer, and the second is more like a glaze. At the bakery, because we egg-wash great volumes of products, we put the egg wash, strained, into a spray gun, paint gun or airbrush. This not only gives us a uniform coating, it's also very gentle on the dough, which is important if it's a proofed and delicate croissant, for example. If you're only egg-washing a small quantity, use a pastry brush.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Excerpted from \u003c/em>Bouchon Bakery\u003cem> by Thomas Keller and Sebastien Rouxel (Artisan Books). Copyright 2012.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>\u003ca name=\"eggs\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Marshmallow Eggs\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59161\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 193px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/bouchon_keller.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/bouchon_keller-193x290.jpg\" alt=\"Thomas Keller demonstrates how to prepare and open his recipe for his marshmallow eggs at his Bouchon Bakery in Beverly Hills. Photo: Doriane Raiman for NPR\" width=\"193\" height=\"290\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-59161\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Thomas Keller demonstrates how to prepare and open his recipe for his marshmallow eggs at his Bouchon Bakery in Beverly Hills. Photo: Doriane Raiman for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 12 eggs\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Marshmallows, just mixed and still warm (recipes follow)\u003cbr>1/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon (90 grams) white or colored decorating sugar, store-bought or homemade (recipes follow)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>At Easter, the team loves to make marshmallow eggs. When you serve them in all kinds of colors, they're a joy to behold, especially for kids. We make different flavors and colors, coat them in various decorative sugars, and place them in egg cartons. For vanilla eggs, we use plain sugar, but for the raspberry we use our raspberry sugar and for the lemon, our lemon sugar. When people first open the carton, they think it's filled with dyed Easter eggs, not marshmallows. Be sure to buy sturdy plastic eggs to use as molds; the cheaper ones are really flimsy. Note that the marshmallows and decorating sugar should rest overnight before coating the eggs.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>You'll need twelve two-piece plastic eggs, a clean egg carton, and a pastry bag with a \u003c/em>\u003cem>1/2-inch plain tip.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If the plastic eggs are new, open them, wash them and dry thoroughly. Spray the inside of both halves of each egg with nonstick spray and set them in the egg carton.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fill the pastry bag with the warm marshmallow mixture. Holding the tip close to the bottom of an egg half, slowly pull up as you fill the half completely; try not to leave any air pockets. Fill the other half and fit the top and bottom together — there will be some resistance, but they must be secure to form a perfectly shaped egg. Wipe off the excess marshmallow that oozes from the egg with a damp paper towel. Repeat with the remaining eggs. Stand the filled eggs in the egg carton and let them sit at room temperature overnight.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Put the decorating sugar in a small bowl. Remove the eggs from the molds. Toss the eggs in the sugar and then stand them in the egg carton.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If they will be served within a few hours, let the eggs sit at room temperature. For longer storage, place the egg carton in a large covered container for up to 2 weeks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For Vanilla Marshmallows\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes about 4 dozen 1-inch marshmallows (250 grams/8.8 ounces)\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup (5 grams) powdered sugar\u003cbr>1/2 cup (6.4 grams) cornstarch\u003cbr>4 sheets (9.6 grams) silver leaf gelatin\u003cbr>1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons (87 grams) egg whites\u003cbr>1/4 vanilla bean, split lengthwise\u003cbr>1 cup plus 2 tablespoons (225 grams) granulated sugar\u003cbr>1/2 cup (112 grams) water\u003cbr>2 1/2 tablespoons (50 grams) light corn syrup\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Marshmallows may seem mysterious and complex, but they're really easy — nothing more than meringue set with gelatin. If you can make a meringue, you can make your own marshmallows. They're playful and fun, and they can be made in different flavors. We make lemon, raspberry and vanilla marshmallows, but you could add jams or pistachio paste for different flavors (add 15 to 20 percent of the weight of the egg whites and sugar).\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>You'll need an 8-inch-square baking pan, an 8-inch-square piece of acetate, and a Thermapen or other candy thermometer.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mix the powdered sugar and cornstarch together. Line the baking pan with plastic wrap and sprinkle the plastic wrap generously with the powdered sugar mixture; set the remainder aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place the gelatin in a bowl of ice water to soften.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Spray one side of the piece of acetate with nonstick spray; set aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Remove the gelatin from the water and squeeze out excess water. Place the gelatin in a small metal bowl set over a small pot of simmering water and melt it (do not let it simmer), then reduce the heat and keep it warm.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, place the egg whites in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment. Scrape the seeds from the vanilla bean and add the seeds to the egg whites.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Combine the granulated sugar, water and corn syrup in a large saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium-high heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar, then simmer for about 5 minutes, until the syrup reaches 250 F/121.1 C.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Letting the syrup continue to cook, turn the mixer to medium speed. The goal is to have the whites at medium peaks when the syrup reaches 281 to 284 F/138 to 140 C. Should the whites reach stiff peaks before the syrup reaches the proper temperature, reduce the mixer speed to the lowest setting.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59165\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 624px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/bouchoneggs.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/bouchoneggs.jpg\" alt=\"After the marshmallow has set, open the plastic shell and dip the egg in flavored and colored sugar, as Thomas Keller demonstrates here. Photo: Doriane Raiman for NPR\" width=\"624\" height=\"350\" class=\"size-full wp-image-59165\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">After the marshmallow has set, open the plastic shell and dip the egg in flavored and colored sugar, as Thomas Keller demonstrates here. Photo: Doriane Raiman for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>When the syrup reaches 281 to 284 F/138 to 140 C, remove it from the heat. Turn the mixer to medium speed and slowly add the syrup to the egg whites, pouring it between the side of the bowl and the whisk. Pour in the gelatin, increase the speed to medium-high, and mix for about 5 minutes, until the mixture is thickened, glossy and warm but not hot.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Spray a spatula with nonstick spray. Spread the marshmallow evenly in the prepared pan. Top with the acetate, sprayed side down, and gently press it against the marshmallow to make the top perfectly smooth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Set a piece of parchment paper larger than the marshmallow on a large cutting board.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Remove the sheet of acetate. Coat the top of the marshmallow with some of the reserved powdered sugar mixture. Flip the marshmallow onto the parchment paper, remove the plastic wrap, and sprinkle with more of the powdered sugar mixture as necessary.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It can be difficult to cut marshmallows evenly. Spray a large chef's knife with nonstick spray and trim the sides of the marshmallow square, then cut into 1-inch cubes (or other shapes), using a ruler as a guide. Clean and respray the knife before each cut. If the marshmallows are sticky when you separate them, dust them lightly with additional powdered sugar mixture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The marshmallows can be stored in a covered container at room temperature for up to 3 days.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For Raspberry Marshmallows\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Omit the vanilla bean. If desired, add 2 drops red food coloring, preferably Chefmaster Red Red, to the warm marshmallow mixture and mix just to combine. Remove the bowl from the mixer stand and gently whisk in 12 grams/2 tablespoons raspberry powder. Spread the marshmallow in the pan and proceed as directed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For Lemon Marshmallows\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Omit the vanilla bean. If desired, add 6 drops yellow food coloring, preferably Chefmaster Lemon Yellow, to the warm marshmallow mixture and mix just to combine. Add the grated zest of 2 lemons (12 grams/2 tablespoons) and mix to combine, then spread the marshmallow in the pan and proceed as directed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Recipe: Colored Decorating Sugar\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For Raspberry Sugar\u003cem>\u003cbr>\u003c/em>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup plus 1 1/2 tablespoons (100 grams) large-crystal sparkling sugar\u003cbr>6 drops diluted citric acid (see Note)\u003cbr>1/2 teaspoons (1 gram) dehydrated raspberry powder, or as needed\u003cbr>Powdered oil-soluble red food coloring\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For Lemon Sugar\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup plus 1 1/2 tablespoons (100 grams) large-crystal sparkling sugar\u003cbr>6 drops diluted citric acid (see Note)\u003cbr>3/4 teaspoons (1.5 grams) grated zest of 1/2 lemon (use a rasp grater)\u003cbr>Powdered oil-soluble yellow food coloring\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Don't be tempted to use liquid food coloring; it won't work here. If you'd like, wear a pair of plastic gloves to avoid staining your hands.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place the sugar in a small bowl. Stir in the citric acid, raspberry powder or lemon zest, and just the amount of food coloring that fits on the tip of a small paring knife (less than a pinch), then use your hands to work the mixture together. If you'd like, add a little additional powder and/or food coloring. Spread the sugar on a baking sheet and let it dry overnight at room temperature.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>* Note: To make diluted citric acid, combine 3/8 teaspoon (2 grams) citric acid and 3/4 teaspoon (2 grams) water in a small cup and stir to dissolve the citric acid.\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Excerpted from \u003c/em>Bouchon Bakery\u003cem> by Thomas Keller and Sebastien Rouxel (Artisan Books). Copyright 2012.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>\u003ca name=\"muffins\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Carrot Muffins\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59164\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/bouchoncarrot-muffins.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/bouchoncarrot-muffins-290x290.jpg\" alt=\"The Bouchon Bakery cookbook highlights the streusel topping on Keller's carrot muffin Photo: Deborah Jones/Artisan Books\" width=\"290\" height=\"290\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-59164\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Bouchon Bakery cookbook highlights the streusel topping on Keller's carrot muffin Photo: Deborah Jones/Artisan Books\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 6 muffins\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For The Batter\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/4 cups plus 2 teaspoons (180 grams) all-purpose flour\u003cbr>1/2 plus 1/8 teaspoon (3.11 grams) baking soda\u003cbr>1/4 teaspoon (1 grams) baking powder\u003cbr>3/4 plus 1/8 teaspoon (2.3 grams) ground cinnamon\u003cbr>1/2 plus 1/8 teaspoon (2 grams) kosher salt\u003cbr>1 cup plus 2 teaspoons (207 grams) granulated sugar\u003cbr>1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons (142 grams) canola oil\u003cbr>1/4 vanilla bean, split lengthwise\u003cbr>1/3 cup (80 grams) eggs\u003cbr>1 3/4 cups (212 grams) shredded carrots\u003cbr>Generous 1 1/4 cups (180 grams) Oat Streusel Topping (recipe follows)\u003cbr clear=\"all\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>You'll need a 6-cup jumbo muffin pan and muffin papers.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This is a good basic carrot muffin, and we sprinkle it with a great oat streusel for even more flavor and texture.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Carrots — and other vegetables, such as zucchini — add moisture to muffin and cake batters. Carrots are so plentiful that we often take them for granted, but all carrots are not alike. I hope you'll pay a little extra for bunch carrots, carrots still with their tops, rather than the ones in plastic bags. The quality makes a big difference when they're a major part of the recipe.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This recipe uses vegetable oil, not butter, and if you omit the streusel, it is dairy free.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place the flour in a medium bowl. Sift in the baking soda, baking powder and cinnamon. Add the salt and whisk together.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Combine the sugar and oil in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment and mix on low speed for about 1 minute. Scrape the seeds from the vanilla bean, add them to the sugar mixture, and mix for 30 seconds to distribute the seeds evenly. Scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl, add the eggs, and mix on low speed for about 1 minute, until just incorporated. Add the dry ingredients in 2 additions, mixing on low speed for 15 seconds after each, or until just combined.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Remove the bowl from the mixer stand and scrape the bottom of the bowl to incorporate any dry ingredients that may have settled there. Stir in the carrots. Transfer the batter to a covered container and refrigerate overnight, or for up to 36 hours.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To bake the muffins: Preheat the oven to 425 F (standard). Line the muffin pan with the muffin papers and spray the papers with nonstick spray.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Spoon the batter evenly into the papers, stopping 3/8 inch from the top (135 grams each). Sprinkle 30 grams/3 tablespoons of the streusel on top of each muffin and press gently into the batter. Place the pan in the oven, lower the oven temperature to 325 F, and bake for 40 to 43 minutes, or until the muffins are golden brown and a skewer inserted in the center comes out clean. Set the pan on a cooling rack and cool completely.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The muffins are best the day they are baked, but they can be wrapped individually in a few layers of plastic wrap or stored in a single layer in a covered container at room temperature for up to 3 days or frozen for up to 1 week.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For The Oat Streusel Topping\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 cups (544 grams)\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup (142 grams) all-purpose flour\u003cbr>1 1/4 cups plus 1 tablespoon (107 grams) old-fashioned oats\u003cbr>1/4 cup plus 3 1/2 tablespoons (106 grams) toasted wheat germ\u003cbr>1/2 cup plus 2 1/2 teaspoons (lightly packed) (50 grams) light brown sugar\u003cbr>2 tablespoons plus 1 1/4 teaspoons (29 grams) granulated sugar\u003cbr>1/2 teaspoon (1.2 grams) ground cinnamon\u003cbr>1/2 teaspoon (0.5 gram) freshly grated nutmeg\u003cbr>1/8 teaspoon (0.4 gram) kosher salt\u003cbr>1/4 vanilla bean, split lengthwise\u003cbr>4 ounces (113 grams) cold unsalted butter, cut into 1/4 -inch pieces\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Combine all of the ingredients except the vanilla bean and butter in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, and mix on low speed to combine. Scrape the seeds from the vanilla bean, add them to the dry mixture, and mix until evenly distributed. Toss in the butter and mix for about 1 minute, or until the butter is incorporated, with no large chunks remaining.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Transfer to a covered container or a resealable plastic bag. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours, or up to 2 days, or freeze for up to 1 month. Use the streusel while it is cold.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>* Note on mixing muffin batter: When mixing a muffin batter, it is important not to overwhip the eggs, as that could cause the muffins to expand too much during baking and then deflate. The mixture may look broken after you whip in the eggs, but that is fine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>* Note on defrosting frozen baked muffins: Defrost the muffins still in the container so any condensation will form on the outside of the container, and not on the muffins. Place on a sheet pan and refresh in a 325 F oven (standard) for about 5 minutes, if desired.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Excerpted from \u003c/em>Bouchon Bakery\u003cem> by Thomas Keller and Sebastien Rouxel (Artisan Books). Copyright 2012.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "Backyard Chickens: Cute, Trendy Spreaders Of Salmonella",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_58735\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 666px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/chix.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/chix.jpg\" alt=\"Backyard chickens can be a great hobby. They can also spread disease. Photo: iStockphoto.com\" width=\"666\" height=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-58735\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Backyard chickens can be a great hobby. They can also spread disease. Photo: iStockphoto.com\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Nancy Shute, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/03/24/175057536/backyard-chickens-cute-trendy-spreaders-of-salmonella\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (3/24/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Backyard chickens have become a coveted suburban accessory, one that packages cuteness, convenience and local food production in one fluffy feathered package.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But animal husbandry can be a nasty business, a fact that's often glossed over by poultry partisans like \u003ca href=\"http://www.marthastewart.com/264904/backyard-chickens-for-beginners\">Martha Stewart\u003c/a> and \u003cem>New Yorker\u003c/em> writer \u003ca href=\"http://www.newyorker.com/reporting/2009/09/28/090928fa_fact_orlean\">Susan Orlean\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Morbidity and Mortality Weekly Report\u003c/em> doesn't do gloss. In its latest \u003ca href=\"http://www.cdc.gov/mmwr/preview/mmwrhtml/mm6211a5.htm?s_cid=mm6211a5_w\">edition\u003c/a>, this chronicle of all things contagious reports on a 2012 salmonella outbreak among 195 people in 27 states.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Most had had contact with live chickens, and many had purchased the birds from an Ohio mail-order hatchery for backyard flocks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"This outbreak investigation identified the largest number of human illnesses ever linked to contact with live poultry during a single outbreak,\" the \u003cem>MMWR\u003c/em> report concludes, \"and it underscores the ongoing risk for human salmonellosis linked to backyard flocks.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>The hatchery that was the source of the birds participated in a program to eliminate the spread of salmonella strains that cause illness in birds, but doesn't certify the poultry as free of strains that could infect people.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But it's no surprise to anybody in the zoonotic disease world that chickens can spread human disease. Remember those warnings not to buy baby chicks for Easter presents? One big reason is that they can \u003ca href=\"http://www.cdc.gov/healthypets/diseases/salmonellosis.htm\">spread salmonella\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Humans can get salmonella from chickens by touching them or their manure, \u003ca href=\"http://www.cdc.gov/features/salmonellapoultry/\">according to the CDC\u003c/a>. The birds can spread the bacteria even when they look healthy. The agency says the best way to reduce risk is to wash hands after handling birds — and make sure that children wash their hands, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Public health officials are also worried about backyard flocks and bird flu. The USDA provides \u003ca href=\"http://www.aphis.usda.gov/animal_health/birdbiosecurity/\">tips\u003c/a> on how to keep domestic fowl from playing a role in a future global pandemic, with no less than backyard poultry expert \u003ca href=\"http://www.chickenwhisperer.net/\">Andy Schneider\u003c/a>, aka The Chicken Whisperer, as their spokesperson.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Buying eggs from the supermarket is a relatively recent invention, as Orlean has pointed out. So maybe the return of backyard chickens is a return to normal. And that's normal, germs included. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Backyard chickens have become a hot trend, loved as a source of healthy local food and fluffy wonderfulness. But backyard birds have also sparked outbreaks of salmonella, the CDC warns.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_58735\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 666px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/chix.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/chix.jpg\" alt=\"Backyard chickens can be a great hobby. They can also spread disease. Photo: iStockphoto.com\" width=\"666\" height=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-58735\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Backyard chickens can be a great hobby. They can also spread disease. Photo: iStockphoto.com\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Nancy Shute, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/03/24/175057536/backyard-chickens-cute-trendy-spreaders-of-salmonella\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (3/24/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Backyard chickens have become a coveted suburban accessory, one that packages cuteness, convenience and local food production in one fluffy feathered package.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But animal husbandry can be a nasty business, a fact that's often glossed over by poultry partisans like \u003ca href=\"http://www.marthastewart.com/264904/backyard-chickens-for-beginners\">Martha Stewart\u003c/a> and \u003cem>New Yorker\u003c/em> writer \u003ca href=\"http://www.newyorker.com/reporting/2009/09/28/090928fa_fact_orlean\">Susan Orlean\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Morbidity and Mortality Weekly Report\u003c/em> doesn't do gloss. In its latest \u003ca href=\"http://www.cdc.gov/mmwr/preview/mmwrhtml/mm6211a5.htm?s_cid=mm6211a5_w\">edition\u003c/a>, this chronicle of all things contagious reports on a 2012 salmonella outbreak among 195 people in 27 states.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Most had had contact with live chickens, and many had purchased the birds from an Ohio mail-order hatchery for backyard flocks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"This outbreak investigation identified the largest number of human illnesses ever linked to contact with live poultry during a single outbreak,\" the \u003cem>MMWR\u003c/em> report concludes, \"and it underscores the ongoing risk for human salmonellosis linked to backyard flocks.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>The hatchery that was the source of the birds participated in a program to eliminate the spread of salmonella strains that cause illness in birds, but doesn't certify the poultry as free of strains that could infect people.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But it's no surprise to anybody in the zoonotic disease world that chickens can spread human disease. Remember those warnings not to buy baby chicks for Easter presents? One big reason is that they can \u003ca href=\"http://www.cdc.gov/healthypets/diseases/salmonellosis.htm\">spread salmonella\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Humans can get salmonella from chickens by touching them or their manure, \u003ca href=\"http://www.cdc.gov/features/salmonellapoultry/\">according to the CDC\u003c/a>. The birds can spread the bacteria even when they look healthy. The agency says the best way to reduce risk is to wash hands after handling birds — and make sure that children wash their hands, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Public health officials are also worried about backyard flocks and bird flu. The USDA provides \u003ca href=\"http://www.aphis.usda.gov/animal_health/birdbiosecurity/\">tips\u003c/a> on how to keep domestic fowl from playing a role in a future global pandemic, with no less than backyard poultry expert \u003ca href=\"http://www.chickenwhisperer.net/\">Andy Schneider\u003c/a>, aka The Chicken Whisperer, as their spokesperson.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Buying eggs from the supermarket is a relatively recent invention, as Orlean has pointed out. So maybe the return of backyard chickens is a return to normal. And that's normal, germs included. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "'Drunken Botanist' Takes A Garden Tour Of The Liquor Cabinet",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/03/19/174642359/drunken-botanist-takes-a-garden-tour-of-the-liquor-cabinet\">Morning Edition\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n [audio src=\"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2013/03/20130319_me_18.mp3\"] \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Post by Camila Domonoske, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/03/19/174642359/drunken-botanist-takes-a-garden-tour-of-the-liquor-cabinet\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (3/19/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_58586\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/drunken-botanist.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/botanist-cherry_wide1-1024x573.jpg\" alt=\"Koehler's Medicinal Plants/Image courtesy Missouri Botanical Garden. http://www.botanicus.org\" width=\"1024\" height=\"573\" class=\"size-large wp-image-58586\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The cherry, prunus cerasus — specifically, the variety marasca — is the only plant that appears in the Manhattan cocktail in an easily recognizable form. But as author Amy Stewart explains, the maraschino garnish is far from the only horticultural element of the cocktail. See below for the rest of the ingredients in a Manhattan. Koehler's Medicinal Plants/Image courtesy Missouri Botanical Garden. http://www.botanicus.org\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/books/titles/174632411/the-drunken-botanist-the-plants-that-created-the-worlds-great-drinks\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/botanist-drunken-209x290.jpg\" alt=\"The Drunken Botanist: The Plants That Created the World's Great Drinks by Amy Stewart\" width=\"209\" height=\"290\" class=\"alignleft size-medium wp-image-58587\">\u003c/a>The next time you're sipping on a glass of something boozy, consider the plants behind your beverage. Some of them might spring immediately to mind: grapes in your wineglass, rye in your whiskey bottle, juniper in your gin and tonic. But what about sorghum and coriander? Cinchona and bitter orange?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>An incredible diversity of grains, herbs and fruits goes into the world's alcoholic drinks, which means that for the botanically minded, a trip to the liquor store is a little different than it is for the rest of us. Amy Stewart explains what it's like in her new book, \u003cem>The Drunken Botanist.\u003c/em> She once stopped by a liquor store with some fellow gardeners and got a little distracted, she writes:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\n\"There wasn't a bottle in the store that we couldn't assign a genus and species to. Bourbon? \u003cem>Zea mays,\u003c/em> an overgrown grass. Absinthe?\u003cem> \u003c/em>\u003cem>Artemisia absinthium,\u003c/em> a much-misunderstood Mediterranean herb. Polish vodka? \u003cem>Solanum tuberosum \u003c/em>... Suddenly we weren't in a liquor store anymore. We were in a fantastical greenhouse, the world's most exotic botanical garden, the sort of strange and overgrown conservatory we only encounter in our dreams.\"\n\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>As Stewart explains to NPR's Renee Montagne, that trip led straight to the writing of \u003cem>The Drunken Botanist.\u003c/em> \"I was talking about [how] we, as gardeners, should be more interested in this stuff. I mean, look at a bottle of gin. There's nothing in that bottle that isn't a plant. And the evening wears on, and I finally said, 'Somebody ought to write a book about this!' And all my friends said, 'Yeah, why don't you do it? You're the one who can't shut up about it!'\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_58589\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 349px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/drunken-botanist1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/drunken-botanist1.jpg\" alt=\"Koehler's Medicinal Plants/Image courtesy Missouri Botanical Garden. http://www.botanicus.org\" width=\"349\" height=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-58589\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Two parts whiskey ... American whiskeys are often aged in white oak barrels (Quercus alba). Koehler's Medicinal Plants/Image courtesy Missouri Botanical Garden. http://www.botanicus.org\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>So she did, writing a book that makes familiar drinks seem new again. Stewart describes beer by way of the challenges of wheat fermentation, and her discussion of gin starts with how to pick juniper berries. Through this horticultural lens, a mixed drink becomes a cornucopia of plants: A Manhattan may contain just three ingredients and a garnish, but Stewart says that a single glass holds over 20 plants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You can start with the whiskey, which would contain barley, rye and wheat or corn. And of course it's been soaked in an oak barrel, so let's not forget that that's another plant, the oak tree, that has a huge role in cocktails,\" she explains. \"And then you add sweet vermouth, which is a wine base — so there's your grapes — and then vermouth has a lot of spices and herbs. And then you splash on some Angostura bitters, and Angostura bitters have, oddly enough, not Angostura bark, but has a lot of other roots and seeds. And the final ingredient in a Manhattan is, of course, a cherry, and so there's one more plant.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_58590\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 359px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/drunken-botanist3.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/drunken-botanist3.jpg\" alt=\"Koehler's Medicinal Plants/Image courtesy Missouri Botanical Garden. http://www.botanicus.org\" width=\"359\" height=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-58590\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">One part sweet vermouth ... As a fortified wine, vermouth started out as Vitis Vinifera. After fermentation, the wine met a host of other botanicals as well. Koehler's Medicinal Plants/Image courtesy Missouri Botanical Garden. http://www.botanicus.org\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>The Drunken Botanist\u003c/em> is organized by ingredient, with entries for plants both common (barley is found in beer, vodka and whiskey) and unusual (violet liqueurs aren't exactly a liquor cabinet staple). But Stewart argues that some odd-sounding plants are actually surprisingly common — like sorghum, for example. It's not a familiar grain for most Americans, but elsewhere in the world it's an alcohol staple.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's grown across Africa and used to make this homemade beer, this cloudy, opaque beer,\" Stewart says. \"It's also grown across Asia, and particularly in China, where it's used to make \u003cem>mao-tai\u003c/em>. ... I think that sorghum might actually be the plan that turns up in more alcohol around the world than any other, believe it or not.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_58591\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 350px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/drunken-botanist4gentia.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/drunken-botanist4gentia.jpg\" alt=\"Koehler's Medicinal Plants/ Image courtesy Missouri Botanical Garden. http://www.botanicus.org\" width=\"350\" height=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-58591\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">One or two dashes of Angostura bitters ... Angostura bitters do not, in fact, use Angostura bark; rather, the tincture draws its flavor from a flowering plant, Gentiana lutea. Koehler's Medicinal Plants/ Image courtesy Missouri Botanical Garden. http://www.botanicus.org\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In addition to featuring cocktail recipes, Stewart includes growing information for many of the ingredients she describes. Some plants, like barley, are not for the faint of heart, but others are beginner-friendly: Stewart recommends that home mixologist-gardeners check out the Mexican sour gherkin cucumber.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's not technically a cucumber, but it's very closely related,\" she explains. \"The fruits are the size of a grape and they're green with little white markings, so they actually look like miniature watermelons. And they taste great: They're sort of a little more tart than a regular cucumber, but they just look extraordinary.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And the best part, for those of us who lack Stewart's green thumb? \"The vines happen to be very prolific, so you do not have to be a very good gardener.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As someone who has managed to underwater a cactus, I'll drink to that.\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>\u003cbr>\nCopyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/03/19/174642359/drunken-botanist-takes-a-garden-tour-of-the-liquor-cabinet\">Morning Edition\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n \u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Post by Camila Domonoske, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/03/19/174642359/drunken-botanist-takes-a-garden-tour-of-the-liquor-cabinet\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (3/19/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_58586\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/drunken-botanist.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/botanist-cherry_wide1-1024x573.jpg\" alt=\"Koehler's Medicinal Plants/Image courtesy Missouri Botanical Garden. http://www.botanicus.org\" width=\"1024\" height=\"573\" class=\"size-large wp-image-58586\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The cherry, prunus cerasus — specifically, the variety marasca — is the only plant that appears in the Manhattan cocktail in an easily recognizable form. But as author Amy Stewart explains, the maraschino garnish is far from the only horticultural element of the cocktail. See below for the rest of the ingredients in a Manhattan. Koehler's Medicinal Plants/Image courtesy Missouri Botanical Garden. http://www.botanicus.org\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/books/titles/174632411/the-drunken-botanist-the-plants-that-created-the-worlds-great-drinks\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/botanist-drunken-209x290.jpg\" alt=\"The Drunken Botanist: The Plants That Created the World's Great Drinks by Amy Stewart\" width=\"209\" height=\"290\" class=\"alignleft size-medium wp-image-58587\">\u003c/a>The next time you're sipping on a glass of something boozy, consider the plants behind your beverage. Some of them might spring immediately to mind: grapes in your wineglass, rye in your whiskey bottle, juniper in your gin and tonic. But what about sorghum and coriander? Cinchona and bitter orange?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>An incredible diversity of grains, herbs and fruits goes into the world's alcoholic drinks, which means that for the botanically minded, a trip to the liquor store is a little different than it is for the rest of us. Amy Stewart explains what it's like in her new book, \u003cem>The Drunken Botanist.\u003c/em> She once stopped by a liquor store with some fellow gardeners and got a little distracted, she writes:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\n\"There wasn't a bottle in the store that we couldn't assign a genus and species to. Bourbon? \u003cem>Zea mays,\u003c/em> an overgrown grass. Absinthe?\u003cem> \u003c/em>\u003cem>Artemisia absinthium,\u003c/em> a much-misunderstood Mediterranean herb. Polish vodka? \u003cem>Solanum tuberosum \u003c/em>... Suddenly we weren't in a liquor store anymore. We were in a fantastical greenhouse, the world's most exotic botanical garden, the sort of strange and overgrown conservatory we only encounter in our dreams.\"\n\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>As Stewart explains to NPR's Renee Montagne, that trip led straight to the writing of \u003cem>The Drunken Botanist.\u003c/em> \"I was talking about [how] we, as gardeners, should be more interested in this stuff. I mean, look at a bottle of gin. There's nothing in that bottle that isn't a plant. And the evening wears on, and I finally said, 'Somebody ought to write a book about this!' And all my friends said, 'Yeah, why don't you do it? You're the one who can't shut up about it!'\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_58589\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 349px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/drunken-botanist1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/drunken-botanist1.jpg\" alt=\"Koehler's Medicinal Plants/Image courtesy Missouri Botanical Garden. http://www.botanicus.org\" width=\"349\" height=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-58589\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Two parts whiskey ... American whiskeys are often aged in white oak barrels (Quercus alba). Koehler's Medicinal Plants/Image courtesy Missouri Botanical Garden. http://www.botanicus.org\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>So she did, writing a book that makes familiar drinks seem new again. Stewart describes beer by way of the challenges of wheat fermentation, and her discussion of gin starts with how to pick juniper berries. Through this horticultural lens, a mixed drink becomes a cornucopia of plants: A Manhattan may contain just three ingredients and a garnish, but Stewart says that a single glass holds over 20 plants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You can start with the whiskey, which would contain barley, rye and wheat or corn. And of course it's been soaked in an oak barrel, so let's not forget that that's another plant, the oak tree, that has a huge role in cocktails,\" she explains. \"And then you add sweet vermouth, which is a wine base — so there's your grapes — and then vermouth has a lot of spices and herbs. And then you splash on some Angostura bitters, and Angostura bitters have, oddly enough, not Angostura bark, but has a lot of other roots and seeds. And the final ingredient in a Manhattan is, of course, a cherry, and so there's one more plant.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_58590\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 359px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/drunken-botanist3.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/drunken-botanist3.jpg\" alt=\"Koehler's Medicinal Plants/Image courtesy Missouri Botanical Garden. http://www.botanicus.org\" width=\"359\" height=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-58590\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">One part sweet vermouth ... As a fortified wine, vermouth started out as Vitis Vinifera. After fermentation, the wine met a host of other botanicals as well. Koehler's Medicinal Plants/Image courtesy Missouri Botanical Garden. http://www.botanicus.org\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>The Drunken Botanist\u003c/em> is organized by ingredient, with entries for plants both common (barley is found in beer, vodka and whiskey) and unusual (violet liqueurs aren't exactly a liquor cabinet staple). But Stewart argues that some odd-sounding plants are actually surprisingly common — like sorghum, for example. It's not a familiar grain for most Americans, but elsewhere in the world it's an alcohol staple.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's grown across Africa and used to make this homemade beer, this cloudy, opaque beer,\" Stewart says. \"It's also grown across Asia, and particularly in China, where it's used to make \u003cem>mao-tai\u003c/em>. ... I think that sorghum might actually be the plan that turns up in more alcohol around the world than any other, believe it or not.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_58591\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 350px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/drunken-botanist4gentia.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/drunken-botanist4gentia.jpg\" alt=\"Koehler's Medicinal Plants/ Image courtesy Missouri Botanical Garden. http://www.botanicus.org\" width=\"350\" height=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-58591\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">One or two dashes of Angostura bitters ... Angostura bitters do not, in fact, use Angostura bark; rather, the tincture draws its flavor from a flowering plant, Gentiana lutea. Koehler's Medicinal Plants/ Image courtesy Missouri Botanical Garden. http://www.botanicus.org\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In addition to featuring cocktail recipes, Stewart includes growing information for many of the ingredients she describes. Some plants, like barley, are not for the faint of heart, but others are beginner-friendly: Stewart recommends that home mixologist-gardeners check out the Mexican sour gherkin cucumber.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's not technically a cucumber, but it's very closely related,\" she explains. \"The fruits are the size of a grape and they're green with little white markings, so they actually look like miniature watermelons. And they taste great: They're sort of a little more tart than a regular cucumber, but they just look extraordinary.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And the best part, for those of us who lack Stewart's green thumb? \"The vines happen to be very prolific, so you do not have to be a very good gardener.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As someone who has managed to underwater a cactus, I'll drink to that.\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>\u003cbr>\nCopyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"soldout": {
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"title": "SOLD OUT: Rethinking Housing in America",
"tagline": "A new future for housing",
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