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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_118544\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-118544\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee1-1920.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Lee Davidson (center) instructs Peter Levitt, executive chef and co-owner of Saul's Deli and Wendy Goodfriend, senior interactive producer and experience architect at KQED, in fatayer-making at a recent Illuminoshi event at Ba-Bite in Oakland.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee1-1920.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee1-1920-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee1-1920-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee1-1920-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee1-1920-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee1-1920-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee1-1920-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee1-1920-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee1-1920-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee1-1920-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Lee Davidson (center) instructs Peter Levitt, executive chef and co-owner of Saul's Deli and Wendy Goodfriend, senior interactive producer and experience architect at KQED, in fatayer-making at a recent Illuminoshi event at Ba-Bite in Oakland. \u003ccite>(Lydia Daniller)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>At a recent \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfchronicle.com/recipes/article/Jewish-gathering-of-food-pros-puts-on-a-latke-10806775.php\">Illuminoshi\u003c/a> event in Oakland, Chef Lee Davidson instructed people on the finer points of making a \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fatayer\">fatayer\u003c/a> – a stuffed pastry with spinach and onion filling or potato leek – that’s commonly made in the Arab world. Guests took a spoonful of the filling that she made in advance, and placed it in the middle of a circle of dough, and then pinched the corners together. Finally, they brushed it with egg wash.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With so many independent chefs out there, one has to have a particular niche to get noticed. Davidson is continuously refining her niche, as her business evolves.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While the chef, whose business is called \u003ca href=\"https://made2gather.com/\">Made2Gather\u003c/a>, began with events where everyone participated; part performance, part team-building exercise, she is still doing that, but now with food as meditation, as well as food as medicine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I’m a food healer or I’m a curator of food healing spaces, and I really want to start pushing those boundaries,” said Davidson. “There are a lot of cooking classes, and they are healthy and nourishing, but people are not there when they cook a lot of the time. They’re not present.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_118545\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-118545\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee2-1920.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Lee Davidson led a group of people in making this food mandala at Oakland's Eastlake Music Festival.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee2-1920.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee2-1920-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee2-1920-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee2-1920-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee2-1920-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee2-1920-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee2-1920-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee2-1920-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee2-1920-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee2-1920-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Lee Davidson led a group of people in making this food mandala at Oakland's Eastlake Music Festival. \u003ccite>(Valerie Beckatova)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Davidson believes that cooking can be used as a tool to aid people in their meditation practices, as it “can help you be engaged and use your senses.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Plus, there’s an additional outcome to all of this that acts as an additional motivating force: “You get to eat.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Davidson, 31, of Oakland, believes that her interest in food began when she was young – like in a baby seat young, hanging out in the kitchen – where there was always the “smells of stews and all of this food going around.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Given that Davidson was born in Johannesburg, South Africa, to Israeli immigrants who both worked, she had successive black nannies, who mostly brought her up.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With a lot of singing and cooking going on in the kitchen, “I think inevitably I must have absorbed a connection to it,” she said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At 11, her mother took her and her siblings back to Israel, where two out of her four grandparents – her father’s father and her mother’s mother – were amazing cooks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While her mom’s side of the family was more traditional foodwise, her dad’s side was comprised of adventurous eaters, she said, who were always bringing back exotic salami and cheeses from their travels abroad.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_118546\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-118546\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee3-1920.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Lee Davidson with a plate of the finished fatayers, a savory pastry commonly served in the Arab world (and Israel, where she spent her teen years.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee3-1920.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee3-1920-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee3-1920-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee3-1920-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee3-1920-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee3-1920-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee3-1920-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee3-1920-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee3-1920-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee3-1920-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Lee Davidson with a plate of the finished fatayers, a savory pastry commonly served in the Arab world (and Israel, where she spent her teen years). \u003ccite>(Lydia Daniller)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Ironically, Davidson’s first job was at a McDonald’s in a Tel Aviv suburb; not necessarily something that is a harbinger of a future in food. That led to jobs at pizzerias, and finally a three-year stint at a bakery at Chanukah time, when they sell \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2015/12/04/hanukkah-treats-strawberry-jam-filled-jelly-donuts-sufganiyot/\">sufganiyot\u003c/a> – jelly-filled donuts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Despite this long-running interest in food, Davidson took awhile to figure out that being a chef was what she was meant to do. She studied art and graphic design in London after serving in the Israeli army. Even after using cupcakes for a design project and spending three months figuring out various ways to decorate them, “I still didn’t understand or put it together that that’s where my heart is,” she said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She moved to Los Angeles, where she had family members. While she helped them manage their juice bar business for a spell, a visit to San Francisco during Pride weekend convinced her that this is where she wanted to live.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That was six years ago, where she first took a nanny position working for \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodandwine.com/articles/the-locavore-empire-of-anya-fernald\">Anya Fernald\u003c/a>, CEO of the sustainable meat business \u003ca href=\"http://belcampo.com/\">Belcampo\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While Davidson was mostly taking care of Fernald’s daughter, with Belcampo just getting started, there was a lot of travel and dinner parties involved, and Davidson began cooking for them as well.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Later, when she began cooking for a woman with thyroid disease, whose condition dramatically improved with her help, she realized she should take this cooking thing seriously, and enrolled in a 12-week course at \u003ca href=\"https://kitchenonfire.com/\">Kitchen on Fire\u003c/a> to refine the skills she already had.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_118547\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-118547\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee4-1920.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Lee Davidson instructs David Tussman on how to make a fatayer.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee4-1920.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee4-1920-160x160.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee4-1920-800x800.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee4-1920-768x768.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee4-1920-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee4-1920-1180x1180.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee4-1920-960x960.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee4-1920-240x240.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee4-1920-375x375.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee4-1920-520x520.jpg 520w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee4-1920-32x32.jpg 32w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee4-1920-50x50.jpg 50w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee4-1920-64x64.jpg 64w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee4-1920-96x96.jpg 96w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee4-1920-128x128.jpg 128w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee4-1920-150x150.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Lee Davidson instructs David Tussman on how to make a fatayer. \u003ccite>(Lydia Daniller)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“Being able to support this woman’s healing made me wonder how I could turn this into something more,” she said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When asked to describe her cooking style, Davidson had a bit of a hard time. No doubt Israel’s Mediterranean diet has had a big influence, as its emphasis on fresh vegetables is not unlike the Northern California ethos.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As for the South African influence, that’s a bit harder to detect.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“South Africa doesn’t have a specific palate,” she said. “But there’s such a big influence from the Dutch and Indian food there.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, there’s a lot of Indian influence in London, too, where she also lived.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Recently, she also visited Japan and is integrating Japanese flavors into her California-Mediterranean mash-up.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Davidson is a popular chef on the \u003ca href=\"https://eatfeastly.com/\">Feastly\u003c/a> platform, and lately has been offering a Shakshuka Brunch Cooking Class, in which diners help make the Shakshuka (Shakshuka is a popular brunch dish in Israel, in which eggs are cooked over a bed of stewed tomatoes cooked with peppers, onions, and spices) but in her version, other vegetables like broccoli and chard are used. (Another popular meal she has done on the platform is called Israeli Food for the Soul.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She also serves homemade pita and seasonal dishes, like an asparagus, avocado and beet salad, and a power tea of her own design, with fresh turmeric root, black pepper, sage, oregano, honey, and mint.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Feastly diners love her, giving her over 200 reviews, many of them five stars.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_118548\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-118548\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee5-1920.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Lee Davidson.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2880\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee5-1920.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee5-1920-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee5-1920-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee5-1920-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee5-1920-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee5-1920-1180x1770.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee5-1920-960x1440.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee5-1920-240x360.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee5-1920-375x563.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee5-1920-520x780.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Lee Davidson. \u003ccite>(Lydia Daniller)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“She allowed us a lot of freedom to ‘make this meal our own,’ and not feel self-conscious if our techniques were right or wrong,’” wrote one, with another saying, “Lee’s energy was contagious.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Davidson maintains that in this era where chefs are often seen as gods, it’s hard for the not-so-experienced home cook to feel competent in the kitchen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She hopes those attending her workshops will come away with more confidence.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I want to push this idea of intuitive mindful cooking and creativity, with not worrying so much about how the food will turn out,” she said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The fact that so many chefs are executing highly technical dishes on television ruins it for the rest of us, she maintains.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“This doesn’t mean that you can’t be a cook, too,” she said. “Robots are coming around the corner, but they won’t be able to be creative and improvise in cooking. Whether it’s being a chef or just cooking for yourself to nourish your body, I want to inspire people.”\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Chef Lee Davidson lived in South Africa, Israel, and the United Kingdom before choosing the Bay Area as her home. The Oakland-based chef offers classes and team-building exercises on the platform Feastly, and in doing so also hopes to inspire attendees not only with great food but with mindfulness, too.",
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"description": "Chef Lee Davidson lived in South Africa, Israel, and the United Kingdom before choosing the Bay Area as her home. The Oakland-based chef offers classes and team-building exercises on the platform Feastly, and in doing so also hopes to inspire attendees not only with great food but with mindfulness, too.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_118544\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-118544\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee1-1920.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Lee Davidson (center) instructs Peter Levitt, executive chef and co-owner of Saul's Deli and Wendy Goodfriend, senior interactive producer and experience architect at KQED, in fatayer-making at a recent Illuminoshi event at Ba-Bite in Oakland.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee1-1920.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee1-1920-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee1-1920-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee1-1920-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee1-1920-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee1-1920-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee1-1920-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee1-1920-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee1-1920-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee1-1920-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Lee Davidson (center) instructs Peter Levitt, executive chef and co-owner of Saul's Deli and Wendy Goodfriend, senior interactive producer and experience architect at KQED, in fatayer-making at a recent Illuminoshi event at Ba-Bite in Oakland. \u003ccite>(Lydia Daniller)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>At a recent \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfchronicle.com/recipes/article/Jewish-gathering-of-food-pros-puts-on-a-latke-10806775.php\">Illuminoshi\u003c/a> event in Oakland, Chef Lee Davidson instructed people on the finer points of making a \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fatayer\">fatayer\u003c/a> – a stuffed pastry with spinach and onion filling or potato leek – that’s commonly made in the Arab world. Guests took a spoonful of the filling that she made in advance, and placed it in the middle of a circle of dough, and then pinched the corners together. Finally, they brushed it with egg wash.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With so many independent chefs out there, one has to have a particular niche to get noticed. Davidson is continuously refining her niche, as her business evolves.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While the chef, whose business is called \u003ca href=\"https://made2gather.com/\">Made2Gather\u003c/a>, began with events where everyone participated; part performance, part team-building exercise, she is still doing that, but now with food as meditation, as well as food as medicine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I’m a food healer or I’m a curator of food healing spaces, and I really want to start pushing those boundaries,” said Davidson. “There are a lot of cooking classes, and they are healthy and nourishing, but people are not there when they cook a lot of the time. They’re not present.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_118545\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-118545\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee2-1920.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Lee Davidson led a group of people in making this food mandala at Oakland's Eastlake Music Festival.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee2-1920.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee2-1920-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee2-1920-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee2-1920-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee2-1920-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee2-1920-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee2-1920-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee2-1920-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee2-1920-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee2-1920-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Lee Davidson led a group of people in making this food mandala at Oakland's Eastlake Music Festival. \u003ccite>(Valerie Beckatova)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Davidson believes that cooking can be used as a tool to aid people in their meditation practices, as it “can help you be engaged and use your senses.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Plus, there’s an additional outcome to all of this that acts as an additional motivating force: “You get to eat.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Davidson, 31, of Oakland, believes that her interest in food began when she was young – like in a baby seat young, hanging out in the kitchen – where there was always the “smells of stews and all of this food going around.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Given that Davidson was born in Johannesburg, South Africa, to Israeli immigrants who both worked, she had successive black nannies, who mostly brought her up.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With a lot of singing and cooking going on in the kitchen, “I think inevitably I must have absorbed a connection to it,” she said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At 11, her mother took her and her siblings back to Israel, where two out of her four grandparents – her father’s father and her mother’s mother – were amazing cooks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While her mom’s side of the family was more traditional foodwise, her dad’s side was comprised of adventurous eaters, she said, who were always bringing back exotic salami and cheeses from their travels abroad.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_118546\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-118546\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee3-1920.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Lee Davidson with a plate of the finished fatayers, a savory pastry commonly served in the Arab world (and Israel, where she spent her teen years.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee3-1920.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee3-1920-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee3-1920-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee3-1920-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee3-1920-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee3-1920-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee3-1920-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee3-1920-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee3-1920-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee3-1920-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Lee Davidson with a plate of the finished fatayers, a savory pastry commonly served in the Arab world (and Israel, where she spent her teen years). \u003ccite>(Lydia Daniller)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Ironically, Davidson’s first job was at a McDonald’s in a Tel Aviv suburb; not necessarily something that is a harbinger of a future in food. That led to jobs at pizzerias, and finally a three-year stint at a bakery at Chanukah time, when they sell \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2015/12/04/hanukkah-treats-strawberry-jam-filled-jelly-donuts-sufganiyot/\">sufganiyot\u003c/a> – jelly-filled donuts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Despite this long-running interest in food, Davidson took awhile to figure out that being a chef was what she was meant to do. She studied art and graphic design in London after serving in the Israeli army. Even after using cupcakes for a design project and spending three months figuring out various ways to decorate them, “I still didn’t understand or put it together that that’s where my heart is,” she said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She moved to Los Angeles, where she had family members. While she helped them manage their juice bar business for a spell, a visit to San Francisco during Pride weekend convinced her that this is where she wanted to live.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That was six years ago, where she first took a nanny position working for \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodandwine.com/articles/the-locavore-empire-of-anya-fernald\">Anya Fernald\u003c/a>, CEO of the sustainable meat business \u003ca href=\"http://belcampo.com/\">Belcampo\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While Davidson was mostly taking care of Fernald’s daughter, with Belcampo just getting started, there was a lot of travel and dinner parties involved, and Davidson began cooking for them as well.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Later, when she began cooking for a woman with thyroid disease, whose condition dramatically improved with her help, she realized she should take this cooking thing seriously, and enrolled in a 12-week course at \u003ca href=\"https://kitchenonfire.com/\">Kitchen on Fire\u003c/a> to refine the skills she already had.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_118547\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-118547\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee4-1920.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Lee Davidson instructs David Tussman on how to make a fatayer.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee4-1920.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee4-1920-160x160.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee4-1920-800x800.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee4-1920-768x768.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee4-1920-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee4-1920-1180x1180.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee4-1920-960x960.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee4-1920-240x240.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee4-1920-375x375.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee4-1920-520x520.jpg 520w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee4-1920-32x32.jpg 32w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee4-1920-50x50.jpg 50w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee4-1920-64x64.jpg 64w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee4-1920-96x96.jpg 96w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee4-1920-128x128.jpg 128w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee4-1920-150x150.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Lee Davidson instructs David Tussman on how to make a fatayer. \u003ccite>(Lydia Daniller)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“Being able to support this woman’s healing made me wonder how I could turn this into something more,” she said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When asked to describe her cooking style, Davidson had a bit of a hard time. No doubt Israel’s Mediterranean diet has had a big influence, as its emphasis on fresh vegetables is not unlike the Northern California ethos.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As for the South African influence, that’s a bit harder to detect.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“South Africa doesn’t have a specific palate,” she said. “But there’s such a big influence from the Dutch and Indian food there.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, there’s a lot of Indian influence in London, too, where she also lived.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Recently, she also visited Japan and is integrating Japanese flavors into her California-Mediterranean mash-up.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Davidson is a popular chef on the \u003ca href=\"https://eatfeastly.com/\">Feastly\u003c/a> platform, and lately has been offering a Shakshuka Brunch Cooking Class, in which diners help make the Shakshuka (Shakshuka is a popular brunch dish in Israel, in which eggs are cooked over a bed of stewed tomatoes cooked with peppers, onions, and spices) but in her version, other vegetables like broccoli and chard are used. (Another popular meal she has done on the platform is called Israeli Food for the Soul.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She also serves homemade pita and seasonal dishes, like an asparagus, avocado and beet salad, and a power tea of her own design, with fresh turmeric root, black pepper, sage, oregano, honey, and mint.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Feastly diners love her, giving her over 200 reviews, many of them five stars.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_118548\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-118548\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee5-1920.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Lee Davidson.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2880\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee5-1920.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee5-1920-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee5-1920-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee5-1920-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee5-1920-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee5-1920-1180x1770.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee5-1920-960x1440.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee5-1920-240x360.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee5-1920-375x563.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/Lee5-1920-520x780.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Lee Davidson. \u003ccite>(Lydia Daniller)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“She allowed us a lot of freedom to ‘make this meal our own,’ and not feel self-conscious if our techniques were right or wrong,’” wrote one, with another saying, “Lee’s energy was contagious.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Davidson maintains that in this era where chefs are often seen as gods, it’s hard for the not-so-experienced home cook to feel competent in the kitchen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She hopes those attending her workshops will come away with more confidence.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I want to push this idea of intuitive mindful cooking and creativity, with not worrying so much about how the food will turn out,” she said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The fact that so many chefs are executing highly technical dishes on television ruins it for the rest of us, she maintains.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“This doesn’t mean that you can’t be a cook, too,” she said. “Robots are coming around the corner, but they won’t be able to be creative and improvise in cooking. Whether it’s being a chef or just cooking for yourself to nourish your body, I want to inspire people.”\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "An Illustrated Guide To Master The Elements Of Cooking — Without Recipes",
"title": "An Illustrated Guide To Master The Elements Of Cooking — Without Recipes",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the interview on NPR:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nhttps://ondemand.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2017/05/20170525_me_chef_calls_salt_fat_acid_heat_the_4_elements_good_cooking.mp3\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Samin Nosrat has become known as the chef who taught Michael Pollan to cook, after the famed food writer featured her in his book \u003cem>Cooked\u003c/em> and his Netflix show of the same name.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117798\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/book.jpg\" alt=\"Salt, Fat, Acid, Heat Mastering the Elements of Good Cooking by Samin Nosrat\" width=\"400\" height=\"496\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117798\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/book.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/book-160x198.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/book-240x298.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/book-375x465.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Salt, Fat, Acid, Heat\u003cbr>Mastering the Elements of Good Cooking\u003cbr>by Samin Nosrat\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Now, she's sharing her wisdom with the masses in her new, illustrated cookbook called \u003cem>Salt, Fat, Acid, Heat: Mastering the Elements of Good Cooking\u003c/em>. The key to good cooking, she says, is learning to balance those elements and trust your instincts, rather than just follow recipes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nosrat's own formal culinary education came at Chez Panisse, the legendary restaurant in Berkeley, Calif., founded by Alice Waters. She first went there as a diner, then asked for a job and got one, working her way up. And it was while cooking at Chez Panisse that Nosrat had the revelation that eventually led to this cookbook — that salt, fat, acid and heat are the fundamental elements to good food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The elements and the tenets of professional cooking don't always get translated to the home cook,\" she tells NPR's Rachel Martin. \"Recipes don't encourage you to use your own senses and use your own judgement. And salt, fat, acid and heat can be your compass when you maybe don't have other tools.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nosrat frees her readers to use their own senses instead of measuring cups.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She says we should salt things until they taste like the sea — which is a beautiful image, but also sounds like an awful lot of salt.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117794\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1999px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/pinchsalt-pg45-1aed56a2f75f18beb7dccf3bbee3b59f394e0779.jpg\" alt=\"A pinch of salt\" width=\"1999\" height=\"1499\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117794\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/pinchsalt-pg45-1aed56a2f75f18beb7dccf3bbee3b59f394e0779.jpg 1999w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/pinchsalt-pg45-1aed56a2f75f18beb7dccf3bbee3b59f394e0779-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/pinchsalt-pg45-1aed56a2f75f18beb7dccf3bbee3b59f394e0779-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/pinchsalt-pg45-1aed56a2f75f18beb7dccf3bbee3b59f394e0779-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/pinchsalt-pg45-1aed56a2f75f18beb7dccf3bbee3b59f394e0779-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/pinchsalt-pg45-1aed56a2f75f18beb7dccf3bbee3b59f394e0779-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/pinchsalt-pg45-1aed56a2f75f18beb7dccf3bbee3b59f394e0779-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/pinchsalt-pg45-1aed56a2f75f18beb7dccf3bbee3b59f394e0779-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/pinchsalt-pg45-1aed56a2f75f18beb7dccf3bbee3b59f394e0779-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/pinchsalt-pg45-1aed56a2f75f18beb7dccf3bbee3b59f394e0779-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1999px) 100vw, 1999px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A pinch of salt \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Wendy MacNaughton)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"Just use more than you're comfortable with, I think is a good rule for most people,\" she says. You know, especially when you're boiling things in salted water, the idea is that most foods don't spend much time in that water. So the idea is to make it salty enough that the food can absorb enough salt and become seasoned from within. A lot of times you end up using less salt, total, if you get the salt right from within, because then the thing isn't over seasoned on the outside and bland in the center.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nosrat's conversation with Martin is excerpted below. The transcript has been edited for clarity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>RACHEL MARTIN: So, let's get to fat, which is the next central element to cooking. This is something that people are afraid of. Even though we understand the difference between good and bad fat, fat still gets a bad rap in cooking.\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To me, it's a tragedy because I think fat has this remarkable capability to offer us all these different and very interesting and delicious and mouth-watering textures in our food. And it's just about learning how to get those textures out of the fat that you're already using.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>When you talk about acid in our food, what do you mean?\u003c/strong>\u003cstrong>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For me, it is all about getting that nice, tangy balance in a bite, in a meal or in a dish. And you can get that through citrus and vinegar and wine, which are maybe the three most obvious and well-known sources of acid. But then there's acid in so many other things. Almost every condiment we add to our food is acidic, which is why when you get a bean and cheese burrito, you're always hungry for salsa and sour cream and guacamole to put on there, because those things will just perk it up and add flavor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117792\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1440px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/anatomyofgrilledcheese_custom-5c2f1a25239d5a34e4dceee9be44ee644e3b6c4e.jpg\" alt=\"grilled cheese\" width=\"1440\" height=\"792\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117792\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/anatomyofgrilledcheese_custom-5c2f1a25239d5a34e4dceee9be44ee644e3b6c4e.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/anatomyofgrilledcheese_custom-5c2f1a25239d5a34e4dceee9be44ee644e3b6c4e-160x88.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/anatomyofgrilledcheese_custom-5c2f1a25239d5a34e4dceee9be44ee644e3b6c4e-800x440.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/anatomyofgrilledcheese_custom-5c2f1a25239d5a34e4dceee9be44ee644e3b6c4e-768x422.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/anatomyofgrilledcheese_custom-5c2f1a25239d5a34e4dceee9be44ee644e3b6c4e-1020x561.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/anatomyofgrilledcheese_custom-5c2f1a25239d5a34e4dceee9be44ee644e3b6c4e-1180x649.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/anatomyofgrilledcheese_custom-5c2f1a25239d5a34e4dceee9be44ee644e3b6c4e-960x528.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/anatomyofgrilledcheese_custom-5c2f1a25239d5a34e4dceee9be44ee644e3b6c4e-240x132.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/anatomyofgrilledcheese_custom-5c2f1a25239d5a34e4dceee9be44ee644e3b6c4e-375x206.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/anatomyofgrilledcheese_custom-5c2f1a25239d5a34e4dceee9be44ee644e3b6c4e-520x286.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1440px) 100vw, 1440px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Anatomy of a Perfect Grilled Cheese Sandwich \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Wendy MacNaughton)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>The last element we're going to talk about is heat. You say a grilled cheese sandwich can actually be a great guide on heat. What do you mean by that?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was trying to think of something that everyone has made. And the thing about heat, I realized, is that when you're cooking a food, what it sort of boils down to — no matter what the food is — is to get your desired result on the outside and on the inside. And so your dream is to get that perfect grilled cheese, where the outside is crisp and brown and buttery and delicious, and the inside is melty and perfect.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117795\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1913px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/saminwashere_custom-19cb603a6e46ce374701d9851de2245c3f727d91.jpg\" alt=\"Samin was here\" width=\"1913\" height=\"1206\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117795\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/saminwashere_custom-19cb603a6e46ce374701d9851de2245c3f727d91.jpg 1913w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/saminwashere_custom-19cb603a6e46ce374701d9851de2245c3f727d91-160x101.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/saminwashere_custom-19cb603a6e46ce374701d9851de2245c3f727d91-800x504.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/saminwashere_custom-19cb603a6e46ce374701d9851de2245c3f727d91-768x484.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/saminwashere_custom-19cb603a6e46ce374701d9851de2245c3f727d91-1020x643.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/saminwashere_custom-19cb603a6e46ce374701d9851de2245c3f727d91-1180x744.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/saminwashere_custom-19cb603a6e46ce374701d9851de2245c3f727d91-960x605.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/saminwashere_custom-19cb603a6e46ce374701d9851de2245c3f727d91-240x151.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/saminwashere_custom-19cb603a6e46ce374701d9851de2245c3f727d91-375x236.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/saminwashere_custom-19cb603a6e46ce374701d9851de2245c3f727d91-520x328.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1913px) 100vw, 1913px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Samin was here \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Wendy MacNaughton)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>I flipped through this book. There are some fantastic illustrations in there by Wendy McNaughton. But there aren't any of the big, glossy photos traditionally found in cookbooks.\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This book and this message is about teaching you to be loose in the kitchen. And I didn't want you to feel bound to my one image of a perfect dish in a perfect moment and feel like that was what you had to make. So I didn't want you to feel like you had to live up to my version of perfection.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lastly, I want to ask you about the dedication in the book. You thank Alice Waters, owner of Chez Panisse, for giving you the kitchen, and your mom for giving you the world. What does your mom make of your career now?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's been an interesting experience being the child of immigrants and explaining this non-conventional path. But, I think once she could go to the store and buy a magazine that I'd written for or, now, this book — I think that she gets that I've figured something out. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Do you cook for her?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She doesn't like my kind of cooking. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>So when Sunday night dinner comes around, she does the cooking?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like I said, she's a good cook. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/books/titles/530274313/salt-fat-acid-heat-mastering-the-elements-of-good-cooking#excerpt\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cstrong>Read an excerpt from Salt, Fat, Acid, Heat\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cem>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "In her new cookbook, \u003cem>Salt, Fat, Acid, Heat,\u003c/em> Samin Nosrat says the key to good food is learning to balance those elements when cooking — and to trust your instincts. ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Samin Nosrat has become known as the chef who taught Michael Pollan to cook, after the famed food writer featured her in his book \u003cem>Cooked\u003c/em> and his Netflix show of the same name.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117798\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/book.jpg\" alt=\"Salt, Fat, Acid, Heat Mastering the Elements of Good Cooking by Samin Nosrat\" width=\"400\" height=\"496\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117798\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/book.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/book-160x198.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/book-240x298.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/book-375x465.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Salt, Fat, Acid, Heat\u003cbr>Mastering the Elements of Good Cooking\u003cbr>by Samin Nosrat\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Now, she's sharing her wisdom with the masses in her new, illustrated cookbook called \u003cem>Salt, Fat, Acid, Heat: Mastering the Elements of Good Cooking\u003c/em>. The key to good cooking, she says, is learning to balance those elements and trust your instincts, rather than just follow recipes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nosrat's own formal culinary education came at Chez Panisse, the legendary restaurant in Berkeley, Calif., founded by Alice Waters. She first went there as a diner, then asked for a job and got one, working her way up. And it was while cooking at Chez Panisse that Nosrat had the revelation that eventually led to this cookbook — that salt, fat, acid and heat are the fundamental elements to good food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The elements and the tenets of professional cooking don't always get translated to the home cook,\" she tells NPR's Rachel Martin. \"Recipes don't encourage you to use your own senses and use your own judgement. And salt, fat, acid and heat can be your compass when you maybe don't have other tools.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nosrat frees her readers to use their own senses instead of measuring cups.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She says we should salt things until they taste like the sea — which is a beautiful image, but also sounds like an awful lot of salt.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117794\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1999px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/pinchsalt-pg45-1aed56a2f75f18beb7dccf3bbee3b59f394e0779.jpg\" alt=\"A pinch of salt\" width=\"1999\" height=\"1499\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117794\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/pinchsalt-pg45-1aed56a2f75f18beb7dccf3bbee3b59f394e0779.jpg 1999w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/pinchsalt-pg45-1aed56a2f75f18beb7dccf3bbee3b59f394e0779-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/pinchsalt-pg45-1aed56a2f75f18beb7dccf3bbee3b59f394e0779-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/pinchsalt-pg45-1aed56a2f75f18beb7dccf3bbee3b59f394e0779-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/pinchsalt-pg45-1aed56a2f75f18beb7dccf3bbee3b59f394e0779-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/pinchsalt-pg45-1aed56a2f75f18beb7dccf3bbee3b59f394e0779-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/pinchsalt-pg45-1aed56a2f75f18beb7dccf3bbee3b59f394e0779-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/pinchsalt-pg45-1aed56a2f75f18beb7dccf3bbee3b59f394e0779-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/pinchsalt-pg45-1aed56a2f75f18beb7dccf3bbee3b59f394e0779-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/pinchsalt-pg45-1aed56a2f75f18beb7dccf3bbee3b59f394e0779-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1999px) 100vw, 1999px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A pinch of salt \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Wendy MacNaughton)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"Just use more than you're comfortable with, I think is a good rule for most people,\" she says. You know, especially when you're boiling things in salted water, the idea is that most foods don't spend much time in that water. So the idea is to make it salty enough that the food can absorb enough salt and become seasoned from within. A lot of times you end up using less salt, total, if you get the salt right from within, because then the thing isn't over seasoned on the outside and bland in the center.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nosrat's conversation with Martin is excerpted below. The transcript has been edited for clarity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>RACHEL MARTIN: So, let's get to fat, which is the next central element to cooking. This is something that people are afraid of. Even though we understand the difference between good and bad fat, fat still gets a bad rap in cooking.\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To me, it's a tragedy because I think fat has this remarkable capability to offer us all these different and very interesting and delicious and mouth-watering textures in our food. And it's just about learning how to get those textures out of the fat that you're already using.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>When you talk about acid in our food, what do you mean?\u003c/strong>\u003cstrong>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For me, it is all about getting that nice, tangy balance in a bite, in a meal or in a dish. And you can get that through citrus and vinegar and wine, which are maybe the three most obvious and well-known sources of acid. But then there's acid in so many other things. Almost every condiment we add to our food is acidic, which is why when you get a bean and cheese burrito, you're always hungry for salsa and sour cream and guacamole to put on there, because those things will just perk it up and add flavor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117792\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1440px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/anatomyofgrilledcheese_custom-5c2f1a25239d5a34e4dceee9be44ee644e3b6c4e.jpg\" alt=\"grilled cheese\" width=\"1440\" height=\"792\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117792\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/anatomyofgrilledcheese_custom-5c2f1a25239d5a34e4dceee9be44ee644e3b6c4e.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/anatomyofgrilledcheese_custom-5c2f1a25239d5a34e4dceee9be44ee644e3b6c4e-160x88.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/anatomyofgrilledcheese_custom-5c2f1a25239d5a34e4dceee9be44ee644e3b6c4e-800x440.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/anatomyofgrilledcheese_custom-5c2f1a25239d5a34e4dceee9be44ee644e3b6c4e-768x422.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/anatomyofgrilledcheese_custom-5c2f1a25239d5a34e4dceee9be44ee644e3b6c4e-1020x561.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/anatomyofgrilledcheese_custom-5c2f1a25239d5a34e4dceee9be44ee644e3b6c4e-1180x649.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/anatomyofgrilledcheese_custom-5c2f1a25239d5a34e4dceee9be44ee644e3b6c4e-960x528.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/anatomyofgrilledcheese_custom-5c2f1a25239d5a34e4dceee9be44ee644e3b6c4e-240x132.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/anatomyofgrilledcheese_custom-5c2f1a25239d5a34e4dceee9be44ee644e3b6c4e-375x206.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/anatomyofgrilledcheese_custom-5c2f1a25239d5a34e4dceee9be44ee644e3b6c4e-520x286.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1440px) 100vw, 1440px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Anatomy of a Perfect Grilled Cheese Sandwich \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Wendy MacNaughton)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>The last element we're going to talk about is heat. You say a grilled cheese sandwich can actually be a great guide on heat. What do you mean by that?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was trying to think of something that everyone has made. And the thing about heat, I realized, is that when you're cooking a food, what it sort of boils down to — no matter what the food is — is to get your desired result on the outside and on the inside. And so your dream is to get that perfect grilled cheese, where the outside is crisp and brown and buttery and delicious, and the inside is melty and perfect.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117795\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1913px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/saminwashere_custom-19cb603a6e46ce374701d9851de2245c3f727d91.jpg\" alt=\"Samin was here\" width=\"1913\" height=\"1206\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117795\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/saminwashere_custom-19cb603a6e46ce374701d9851de2245c3f727d91.jpg 1913w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/saminwashere_custom-19cb603a6e46ce374701d9851de2245c3f727d91-160x101.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/saminwashere_custom-19cb603a6e46ce374701d9851de2245c3f727d91-800x504.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/saminwashere_custom-19cb603a6e46ce374701d9851de2245c3f727d91-768x484.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/saminwashere_custom-19cb603a6e46ce374701d9851de2245c3f727d91-1020x643.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/saminwashere_custom-19cb603a6e46ce374701d9851de2245c3f727d91-1180x744.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/saminwashere_custom-19cb603a6e46ce374701d9851de2245c3f727d91-960x605.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/saminwashere_custom-19cb603a6e46ce374701d9851de2245c3f727d91-240x151.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/saminwashere_custom-19cb603a6e46ce374701d9851de2245c3f727d91-375x236.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/saminwashere_custom-19cb603a6e46ce374701d9851de2245c3f727d91-520x328.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1913px) 100vw, 1913px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Samin was here \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Wendy MacNaughton)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>I flipped through this book. There are some fantastic illustrations in there by Wendy McNaughton. But there aren't any of the big, glossy photos traditionally found in cookbooks.\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This book and this message is about teaching you to be loose in the kitchen. And I didn't want you to feel bound to my one image of a perfect dish in a perfect moment and feel like that was what you had to make. So I didn't want you to feel like you had to live up to my version of perfection.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lastly, I want to ask you about the dedication in the book. You thank Alice Waters, owner of Chez Panisse, for giving you the kitchen, and your mom for giving you the world. What does your mom make of your career now?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's been an interesting experience being the child of immigrants and explaining this non-conventional path. But, I think once she could go to the store and buy a magazine that I'd written for or, now, this book — I think that she gets that I've figured something out. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Do you cook for her?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She doesn't like my kind of cooking. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>So when Sunday night dinner comes around, she does the cooking?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like I said, she's a good cook. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/books/titles/530274313/salt-fat-acid-heat-mastering-the-elements-of-good-cooking#excerpt\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cstrong>Read an excerpt from Salt, Fat, Acid, Heat\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cem>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Reclaiming Tofu: Asian Art Museum Honors the Traditional & Trendy Curd",
"title": "Reclaiming Tofu: Asian Art Museum Honors the Traditional & Trendy Curd",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117629\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/1-welcome-sign-NEW.jpg\" alt=\"The San Francisco Asian Art Museum hosts periodic Tasting Menu programs, inviting patrons to make the connection between food and art.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117629\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/1-welcome-sign-NEW.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/1-welcome-sign-NEW-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/1-welcome-sign-NEW-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/1-welcome-sign-NEW-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/1-welcome-sign-NEW-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/1-welcome-sign-NEW-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/1-welcome-sign-NEW-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/1-welcome-sign-NEW-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/1-welcome-sign-NEW-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/1-welcome-sign-NEW-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The San Francisco Asian Art Museum hosts periodic Tasting Menu programs, inviting patrons to make the connection between food and art. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Walk into any museum, and one of the first items you are likely to spot is a posted warning, a stern reminder not to consume any foods or beverages within its hallowed halls. Last Thursday night, however, visitors to the marble galleries of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.asianart.org/\">San Francisco Asian Art Museum\u003c/a> were met with welcoming signs promising savory tastings ahead. The event, entitled \u003ca href=\"http://www.asianart.org/regular/tasting-menu-reclaiming-tofu\">Reclaiming Tofu\u003c/a>, was part of the museum’s two-year old \u003ca href=\"http://www.asianart.org/regular/tasting-menu\">Tasting Menu program\u003c/a>, which Tim Hallman\u003cstrong>,\u003c/strong> Director of Communications & Business Development, describes as “exploring the connections between art and dining.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“At the Asian Art Museum,” Hallman says, “we believe that food — just like art — is a beautiful way to share culture. Many of the artworks in our collection are related to food, and the museum is located in the heart of an incredibly dynamic culinary environment—one with deep influences from Asian cuisine. These factors make us a perfect venue for fostering dialogues on the creative elements of edible traditions—both local and global.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117630\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1600px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/2.hall-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW.jpg\" alt=\"Jennifer 8. Lee and Minh Tsai discuss the past and future of tofu in front of more than 200 attendees.\" width=\"1600\" height=\"1023\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117630\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/2.hall-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW.jpg 1600w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/2.hall-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-160x102.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/2.hall-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-800x512.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/2.hall-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-768x491.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/2.hall-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-1020x652.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/2.hall-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-1180x754.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/2.hall-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-960x614.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/2.hall-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-240x153.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/2.hall-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-375x240.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/2.hall-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-520x332.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1600px) 100vw, 1600px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jennifer 8. Lee and Minh Tsai discuss the past and future of tofu in front of more than 200 attendees. \u003ccite>(Quincy Stamper, Asian Art Museum)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Attendees at the sold-out event on Thursday night were treated to a lively hour-long dialogue on the journey of the 2000-year old bean curd between Minh Tsai, founder of \u003ca href=\"http://hodosoy.com/\">Hodo Soy\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.jennifer8lee.com/\">Jennifer 8. Lee\u003c/a>, a former New York Times reporter, producer of the film “The Search for General Tso” and the author of \u003cem>The Fortune Cookie Chronicles.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117631\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/3.-Greens-rolls-NEW.jpg\" alt=\"Greens' fresh spring rolls with tofu wait to be assembled into the final dish.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117631\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/3.-Greens-rolls-NEW.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/3.-Greens-rolls-NEW-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/3.-Greens-rolls-NEW-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/3.-Greens-rolls-NEW-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/3.-Greens-rolls-NEW-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/3.-Greens-rolls-NEW-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/3.-Greens-rolls-NEW-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/3.-Greens-rolls-NEW-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/3.-Greens-rolls-NEW-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/3.-Greens-rolls-NEW-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Greens' fresh spring rolls with tofu wait to be assembled into the final dish. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Inspired by the fresh tofu he remembered enjoying with his grandfather in Vietnam, Tsai started a small, artisanal tofu-making business in 2004 with six cousins as partners. He began by trying to educate the palates of customers and get feedback from them at a single Farmers Market. The vicissitudes of running the small business discouraged his cousins who all bailed out. But Tsai persevered. And now he counts 700 stores and restaurants that stock his tofu products, including Chipotle and Sweet Greens, which he supplies from his West Oakland beanery. Increasingly, and perhaps even of more value, respected chefs from singular restaurants are exploring the spectrum of flavors and textures in Hodo’s premium products.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117632\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/4-Minh-and-Stuart-NEW.jpg\" alt=\"Minh Tsai expresses his appreciation of the varied textures in Stuart Brioza's yuba (tofu skin) with toasted quinoa.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1998\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117632\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/4-Minh-and-Stuart-NEW.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/4-Minh-and-Stuart-NEW-160x167.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/4-Minh-and-Stuart-NEW-800x833.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/4-Minh-and-Stuart-NEW-768x799.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/4-Minh-and-Stuart-NEW-1020x1061.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/4-Minh-and-Stuart-NEW-1180x1228.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/4-Minh-and-Stuart-NEW-960x999.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/4-Minh-and-Stuart-NEW-240x250.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/4-Minh-and-Stuart-NEW-375x390.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/4-Minh-and-Stuart-NEW-520x541.jpg 520w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/4-Minh-and-Stuart-NEW-32x32.jpg 32w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Minh Tsai expresses his appreciation of the varied textures in Stuart Brioza's yuba (tofu skin) with toasted quinoa. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>With Lee’s prompts, Tsai discussed the unfortunate introduction of tofu in the US. back in the 70’s. The soft, jiggly bean curd was seen purely as a cheap, plant-based protein for vegetarians, and sold in big plastic tubs for $1.99. As a straight-up, meat-substitute, people tried grilling it alongside burgers, but it fell through the grill's gaps. That led to the “American invention of extra firm tofu” whose dense texture, Tsai describes, actually precluded it from absorbing the flavors of whatever sauce it was paired with, “leaving just a weird chalky taste.” In actuality, in most Asian cuisines, classic tofu dishes combine tofu and meat ingredients.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tsai is not only a cheerleader for the many potential uses of his organic tofu, but a wise tofu guru, as well. Although he is focused on growing Hodo Soy, he sees value in promoting high quality tofu across America and generously offers to teach people to start their own tofu companies. During the question and answer period, a woman asked about tofu donuts that she had tried in Japan. Tsai encouraged her to start her own pop-up and even offered his help.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lee likened an appreciation of the many variations in tofu to that of cheese and asked Tsai how to encourage consumers to become equally sophisticated and snobby about soybean curds. \"What words can they use?\" she asked. Tsai responded, “fresh, buttery, creamy, beany.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117633\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1600px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/5-all-speakers-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW.jpg\" alt=\"Jennifer 8. Lee moderated the discussion between Minh Tsai, Stuart, Brioza, Brandon Jew and Annie Somerville.\" width=\"1600\" height=\"1130\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117633\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/5-all-speakers-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW.jpg 1600w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/5-all-speakers-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-160x113.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/5-all-speakers-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-800x565.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/5-all-speakers-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-768x542.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/5-all-speakers-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-1020x720.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/5-all-speakers-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-1180x833.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/5-all-speakers-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-960x678.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/5-all-speakers-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-240x170.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/5-all-speakers-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-375x265.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/5-all-speakers-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-520x367.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1600px) 100vw, 1600px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jennifer 8. Lee moderated the discussion between Minh Tsai, Stuart, Brioza, Brandon Jew and Annie Somerville. \u003ccite>(Quincy Stamper, Asian Art Museum)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>At the end of the discussion, three notable local chefs, clearly fans and loyal customers of Hodo, Brandon Jew of Mister Jiu’s, Annie Somerville of Greens and Stuart Brioza of State Bird Provisions and The Progress joined the pair to further sing the praises of cooking with tofu and introduce their dishes, which had attendees salivating in anticipation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117634\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/6-Greens-Annie-NEW.jpg\" alt=\"Annie Somerville of Greens Restaurant has known Minh Tsai and served Hodo Soy tofu since 2004.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2489\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117634\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/6-Greens-Annie-NEW.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/6-Greens-Annie-NEW-160x207.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/6-Greens-Annie-NEW-800x1037.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/6-Greens-Annie-NEW-768x996.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/6-Greens-Annie-NEW-1020x1322.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/6-Greens-Annie-NEW-1180x1530.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/6-Greens-Annie-NEW-960x1245.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/6-Greens-Annie-NEW-240x311.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/6-Greens-Annie-NEW-375x486.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/6-Greens-Annie-NEW-520x674.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Annie Somerville of Greens Restaurant has known Minh Tsai and served Hodo Soy tofu since 2004. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Somerville who started Greens restaurant in 1981, commented, ”We’ve served tofu from day one and had used another organic brand. When a friend insisted I try Hodo, I met Tsai back in 2004 at the Ferry Plaza Market and started using his products. I support his efforts, and especially think that with all the attention to climate change, this is an especially good time to explore tofu’s potential.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Stuart Brioza who admitted to having a “tofu-disconnect” in his youth, is especially enthusiastic about using yuba (soy milk skin). “It is an amazing entrance into tofu; it caused me to totally rethink tofu. I have so many vegan friends and have also explored tofu in its places of origin such as Kyoto’s Buddhist monasteries. I appreciate its sophistication and we serve it at both restaurants.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After the dialogue’s conclusion, attendees lined up at four stations to sample the tofu treats prepared by the chefs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117635\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1600px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/7-Hodos-tofu-cubes-photo-Quincy-Stamper-NEW.jpg\" alt=\"Minimalist preparation lets flavor of Hodo's fresh tofu shine through.\" width=\"1600\" height=\"1066\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117635\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/7-Hodos-tofu-cubes-photo-Quincy-Stamper-NEW.jpg 1600w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/7-Hodos-tofu-cubes-photo-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/7-Hodos-tofu-cubes-photo-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/7-Hodos-tofu-cubes-photo-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/7-Hodos-tofu-cubes-photo-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/7-Hodos-tofu-cubes-photo-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-1180x786.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/7-Hodos-tofu-cubes-photo-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/7-Hodos-tofu-cubes-photo-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/7-Hodos-tofu-cubes-photo-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/7-Hodos-tofu-cubes-photo-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-520x346.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1600px) 100vw, 1600px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Minimalist preparation lets flavor of Hodo's fresh tofu shine through. \u003ccite>(Quincy Stamper, Asian Art Museum)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Hodo Soy’s own offering is what comes to mind when you think of tofu: minimalist white cubes; but these were topped with delicate dots of preserved yuzu kosho, edamame puree and umeboshi.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117636\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1490px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/8-mapo-tofu-photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW.jpg\" alt=\"Brandon Jew of Mister Jiu's contributed a fiery, flavorful mapo tofu.\" width=\"1490\" height=\"1200\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117636\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/8-mapo-tofu-photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW.jpg 1490w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/8-mapo-tofu-photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-160x129.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/8-mapo-tofu-photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-800x644.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/8-mapo-tofu-photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-768x619.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/8-mapo-tofu-photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-1020x821.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/8-mapo-tofu-photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-1180x950.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/8-mapo-tofu-photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-960x773.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/8-mapo-tofu-photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-240x193.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/8-mapo-tofu-photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-375x302.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/8-mapo-tofu-photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-520x419.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1490px) 100vw, 1490px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Brandon Jew of Mister Jiu's contributed a fiery, flavorful mapo tofu. \u003ccite>(Quincy Stamper, Asian Art Museum)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Brandon Jew made his own creamy silken tofu out of Hodo’s soy milk and riffed on the classic mapo tofu with an explosion of spicy flavors in his rib eye cap sauce, with fermented black beans, bean paste and chilis.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117637\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/9.Stuarts-yuba-NEW.jpg\" alt=\"Stuart Brioza's cold yuba noodles pairs the slippery tofu skin with crunchy toasted quinoa for a multi-sensory bite.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117637\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/9.Stuarts-yuba-NEW.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/9.Stuarts-yuba-NEW-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/9.Stuarts-yuba-NEW-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/9.Stuarts-yuba-NEW-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/9.Stuarts-yuba-NEW-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/9.Stuarts-yuba-NEW-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/9.Stuarts-yuba-NEW-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/9.Stuarts-yuba-NEW-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/9.Stuarts-yuba-NEW-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/9.Stuarts-yuba-NEW-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Stuart Brioza's cold yuba noodles pairs the slippery tofu skin with crunchy toasted quinoa for a multi-sensory bite. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Stuart Brioza had two offerings: cold yuba noodles with toasted quinoa, yuzu pickled mushrooms and tahini-chili oil. And a silken soy milk tofu topped with manila clams and pickled ramps in rice wine vinegar, topped with ramp oil, aged tamari and micro greens.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117643\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/10-state-birdNEW1.jpg\" alt=\"State bird also prepared a silken soy milk tofu topped with manila clams and pickled ramps in rice wine vinegar, topped with ramp oil, aged tamari and micro greens.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117643\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/10-state-birdNEW1.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/10-state-birdNEW1-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/10-state-birdNEW1-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/10-state-birdNEW1-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/10-state-birdNEW1-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/10-state-birdNEW1-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/10-state-birdNEW1-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/10-state-birdNEW1-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/10-state-birdNEW1-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/10-state-birdNEW1-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">State bird also prepared a silken soy milk tofu topped with manila clams and pickled ramps in rice wine vinegar, topped with ramp oil, aged tamari and micro greens. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Annie Somerville of Greens contributed a colorful, classic tofu dish, that still delivers a refreshing punch: fresh spring rolls with firm tofu, vegetable medley, rice noodles, mint, and a crunchy coconut peanut topping.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117639\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1490px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/11-Greens-dish-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW.jpg\" alt=\"Crunchy rainbow of vegetables animate Annie Somerville's fresh spring rolls.\" width=\"1490\" height=\"1200\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117639\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/11-Greens-dish-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW.jpg 1490w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/11-Greens-dish-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-160x129.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/11-Greens-dish-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-800x644.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/11-Greens-dish-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-768x619.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/11-Greens-dish-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-1020x821.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/11-Greens-dish-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-1180x950.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/11-Greens-dish-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-960x773.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/11-Greens-dish-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-240x193.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/11-Greens-dish-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-375x302.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/11-Greens-dish-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-520x419.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1490px) 100vw, 1490px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Crunchy rainbow of vegetables animate Annie Somerville's fresh spring rolls. \u003ccite>(Quincy Stamper, Asian Art Museum)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Past Tasting Menu events have included last year’s homage to the \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2016/06/17/the-summer-of-pork-belly-hits-san-francisco-in-the-form-of-a-meat-shaped-stone/\">venerable pork belly\u003c/a>. Upcoming events for this year include \u003ca href=\"http://www.asianart.org/events/1179\">Flowering Teas\u003c/a> (where you can create your own blend) on June 29, and a \u003ca href=\"http://www.asianart.org/events/1197\">Philippine Feast \u003c/a>on August 17.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a subsequent interview, Minh Tsai added, \" Hodo is at a very pivotal time and place for the good food, craft food movement. The story of Hodo tells us a lot about American culture and food. Like many other craft food makers in the US have done over the past few decades, I set out to recreate elusive memory, recapture a lost art. I wanted to make something that could not be found here. But I knew it existed in another place, other countries. So I knew that people here were missing something. But I also recognize that for tofu/yuba to grow, I will need to continue to innovate and collaborate with chefs.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tim Hall of the Asian Art Museum adds, “the goal of our Tasting Menu programs is to find access points for discovery, connections, and links that foster cultural empathy.”\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Freshly made tofu is winning the hearts of local Bay Area Chefs, who helped Minh Tsai, of Hodo Soy, celebrate this rediscovered, ancient ingredient at The Asian Art Museum's Tasting Menu event - Reclaiming Tofu.",
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"description": "Freshly made tofu is winning the hearts of local Bay Area Chefs, who helped Minh Tsai, of Hodo Soy, celebrate this rediscovered, ancient ingredient at The Asian Art Museum's Tasting Menu event - Reclaiming Tofu.",
"title": "Reclaiming Tofu: Asian Art Museum Honors the Traditional & Trendy Curd | KQED",
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"headline": "Reclaiming Tofu: Asian Art Museum Honors the Traditional & Trendy Curd",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117629\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/1-welcome-sign-NEW.jpg\" alt=\"The San Francisco Asian Art Museum hosts periodic Tasting Menu programs, inviting patrons to make the connection between food and art.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117629\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/1-welcome-sign-NEW.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/1-welcome-sign-NEW-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/1-welcome-sign-NEW-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/1-welcome-sign-NEW-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/1-welcome-sign-NEW-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/1-welcome-sign-NEW-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/1-welcome-sign-NEW-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/1-welcome-sign-NEW-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/1-welcome-sign-NEW-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/1-welcome-sign-NEW-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The San Francisco Asian Art Museum hosts periodic Tasting Menu programs, inviting patrons to make the connection between food and art. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Walk into any museum, and one of the first items you are likely to spot is a posted warning, a stern reminder not to consume any foods or beverages within its hallowed halls. Last Thursday night, however, visitors to the marble galleries of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.asianart.org/\">San Francisco Asian Art Museum\u003c/a> were met with welcoming signs promising savory tastings ahead. The event, entitled \u003ca href=\"http://www.asianart.org/regular/tasting-menu-reclaiming-tofu\">Reclaiming Tofu\u003c/a>, was part of the museum’s two-year old \u003ca href=\"http://www.asianart.org/regular/tasting-menu\">Tasting Menu program\u003c/a>, which Tim Hallman\u003cstrong>,\u003c/strong> Director of Communications & Business Development, describes as “exploring the connections between art and dining.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“At the Asian Art Museum,” Hallman says, “we believe that food — just like art — is a beautiful way to share culture. Many of the artworks in our collection are related to food, and the museum is located in the heart of an incredibly dynamic culinary environment—one with deep influences from Asian cuisine. These factors make us a perfect venue for fostering dialogues on the creative elements of edible traditions—both local and global.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117630\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1600px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/2.hall-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW.jpg\" alt=\"Jennifer 8. Lee and Minh Tsai discuss the past and future of tofu in front of more than 200 attendees.\" width=\"1600\" height=\"1023\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117630\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/2.hall-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW.jpg 1600w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/2.hall-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-160x102.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/2.hall-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-800x512.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/2.hall-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-768x491.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/2.hall-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-1020x652.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/2.hall-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-1180x754.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/2.hall-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-960x614.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/2.hall-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-240x153.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/2.hall-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-375x240.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/2.hall-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-520x332.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1600px) 100vw, 1600px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jennifer 8. Lee and Minh Tsai discuss the past and future of tofu in front of more than 200 attendees. \u003ccite>(Quincy Stamper, Asian Art Museum)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Attendees at the sold-out event on Thursday night were treated to a lively hour-long dialogue on the journey of the 2000-year old bean curd between Minh Tsai, founder of \u003ca href=\"http://hodosoy.com/\">Hodo Soy\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.jennifer8lee.com/\">Jennifer 8. Lee\u003c/a>, a former New York Times reporter, producer of the film “The Search for General Tso” and the author of \u003cem>The Fortune Cookie Chronicles.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117631\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/3.-Greens-rolls-NEW.jpg\" alt=\"Greens' fresh spring rolls with tofu wait to be assembled into the final dish.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117631\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/3.-Greens-rolls-NEW.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/3.-Greens-rolls-NEW-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/3.-Greens-rolls-NEW-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/3.-Greens-rolls-NEW-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/3.-Greens-rolls-NEW-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/3.-Greens-rolls-NEW-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/3.-Greens-rolls-NEW-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/3.-Greens-rolls-NEW-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/3.-Greens-rolls-NEW-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/3.-Greens-rolls-NEW-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Greens' fresh spring rolls with tofu wait to be assembled into the final dish. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Inspired by the fresh tofu he remembered enjoying with his grandfather in Vietnam, Tsai started a small, artisanal tofu-making business in 2004 with six cousins as partners. He began by trying to educate the palates of customers and get feedback from them at a single Farmers Market. The vicissitudes of running the small business discouraged his cousins who all bailed out. But Tsai persevered. And now he counts 700 stores and restaurants that stock his tofu products, including Chipotle and Sweet Greens, which he supplies from his West Oakland beanery. Increasingly, and perhaps even of more value, respected chefs from singular restaurants are exploring the spectrum of flavors and textures in Hodo’s premium products.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117632\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/4-Minh-and-Stuart-NEW.jpg\" alt=\"Minh Tsai expresses his appreciation of the varied textures in Stuart Brioza's yuba (tofu skin) with toasted quinoa.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1998\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117632\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/4-Minh-and-Stuart-NEW.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/4-Minh-and-Stuart-NEW-160x167.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/4-Minh-and-Stuart-NEW-800x833.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/4-Minh-and-Stuart-NEW-768x799.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/4-Minh-and-Stuart-NEW-1020x1061.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/4-Minh-and-Stuart-NEW-1180x1228.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/4-Minh-and-Stuart-NEW-960x999.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/4-Minh-and-Stuart-NEW-240x250.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/4-Minh-and-Stuart-NEW-375x390.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/4-Minh-and-Stuart-NEW-520x541.jpg 520w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/4-Minh-and-Stuart-NEW-32x32.jpg 32w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Minh Tsai expresses his appreciation of the varied textures in Stuart Brioza's yuba (tofu skin) with toasted quinoa. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>With Lee’s prompts, Tsai discussed the unfortunate introduction of tofu in the US. back in the 70’s. The soft, jiggly bean curd was seen purely as a cheap, plant-based protein for vegetarians, and sold in big plastic tubs for $1.99. As a straight-up, meat-substitute, people tried grilling it alongside burgers, but it fell through the grill's gaps. That led to the “American invention of extra firm tofu” whose dense texture, Tsai describes, actually precluded it from absorbing the flavors of whatever sauce it was paired with, “leaving just a weird chalky taste.” In actuality, in most Asian cuisines, classic tofu dishes combine tofu and meat ingredients.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tsai is not only a cheerleader for the many potential uses of his organic tofu, but a wise tofu guru, as well. Although he is focused on growing Hodo Soy, he sees value in promoting high quality tofu across America and generously offers to teach people to start their own tofu companies. During the question and answer period, a woman asked about tofu donuts that she had tried in Japan. Tsai encouraged her to start her own pop-up and even offered his help.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lee likened an appreciation of the many variations in tofu to that of cheese and asked Tsai how to encourage consumers to become equally sophisticated and snobby about soybean curds. \"What words can they use?\" she asked. Tsai responded, “fresh, buttery, creamy, beany.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117633\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1600px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/5-all-speakers-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW.jpg\" alt=\"Jennifer 8. Lee moderated the discussion between Minh Tsai, Stuart, Brioza, Brandon Jew and Annie Somerville.\" width=\"1600\" height=\"1130\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117633\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/5-all-speakers-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW.jpg 1600w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/5-all-speakers-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-160x113.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/5-all-speakers-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-800x565.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/5-all-speakers-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-768x542.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/5-all-speakers-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-1020x720.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/5-all-speakers-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-1180x833.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/5-all-speakers-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-960x678.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/5-all-speakers-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-240x170.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/5-all-speakers-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-375x265.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/5-all-speakers-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-520x367.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1600px) 100vw, 1600px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jennifer 8. Lee moderated the discussion between Minh Tsai, Stuart, Brioza, Brandon Jew and Annie Somerville. \u003ccite>(Quincy Stamper, Asian Art Museum)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>At the end of the discussion, three notable local chefs, clearly fans and loyal customers of Hodo, Brandon Jew of Mister Jiu’s, Annie Somerville of Greens and Stuart Brioza of State Bird Provisions and The Progress joined the pair to further sing the praises of cooking with tofu and introduce their dishes, which had attendees salivating in anticipation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117634\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/6-Greens-Annie-NEW.jpg\" alt=\"Annie Somerville of Greens Restaurant has known Minh Tsai and served Hodo Soy tofu since 2004.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2489\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117634\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/6-Greens-Annie-NEW.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/6-Greens-Annie-NEW-160x207.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/6-Greens-Annie-NEW-800x1037.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/6-Greens-Annie-NEW-768x996.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/6-Greens-Annie-NEW-1020x1322.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/6-Greens-Annie-NEW-1180x1530.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/6-Greens-Annie-NEW-960x1245.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/6-Greens-Annie-NEW-240x311.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/6-Greens-Annie-NEW-375x486.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/6-Greens-Annie-NEW-520x674.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Annie Somerville of Greens Restaurant has known Minh Tsai and served Hodo Soy tofu since 2004. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Somerville who started Greens restaurant in 1981, commented, ”We’ve served tofu from day one and had used another organic brand. When a friend insisted I try Hodo, I met Tsai back in 2004 at the Ferry Plaza Market and started using his products. I support his efforts, and especially think that with all the attention to climate change, this is an especially good time to explore tofu’s potential.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Stuart Brioza who admitted to having a “tofu-disconnect” in his youth, is especially enthusiastic about using yuba (soy milk skin). “It is an amazing entrance into tofu; it caused me to totally rethink tofu. I have so many vegan friends and have also explored tofu in its places of origin such as Kyoto’s Buddhist monasteries. I appreciate its sophistication and we serve it at both restaurants.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After the dialogue’s conclusion, attendees lined up at four stations to sample the tofu treats prepared by the chefs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117635\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1600px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/7-Hodos-tofu-cubes-photo-Quincy-Stamper-NEW.jpg\" alt=\"Minimalist preparation lets flavor of Hodo's fresh tofu shine through.\" width=\"1600\" height=\"1066\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117635\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/7-Hodos-tofu-cubes-photo-Quincy-Stamper-NEW.jpg 1600w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/7-Hodos-tofu-cubes-photo-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/7-Hodos-tofu-cubes-photo-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/7-Hodos-tofu-cubes-photo-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/7-Hodos-tofu-cubes-photo-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/7-Hodos-tofu-cubes-photo-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-1180x786.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/7-Hodos-tofu-cubes-photo-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/7-Hodos-tofu-cubes-photo-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/7-Hodos-tofu-cubes-photo-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/7-Hodos-tofu-cubes-photo-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-520x346.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1600px) 100vw, 1600px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Minimalist preparation lets flavor of Hodo's fresh tofu shine through. \u003ccite>(Quincy Stamper, Asian Art Museum)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Hodo Soy’s own offering is what comes to mind when you think of tofu: minimalist white cubes; but these were topped with delicate dots of preserved yuzu kosho, edamame puree and umeboshi.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117636\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1490px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/8-mapo-tofu-photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW.jpg\" alt=\"Brandon Jew of Mister Jiu's contributed a fiery, flavorful mapo tofu.\" width=\"1490\" height=\"1200\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117636\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/8-mapo-tofu-photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW.jpg 1490w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/8-mapo-tofu-photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-160x129.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/8-mapo-tofu-photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-800x644.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/8-mapo-tofu-photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-768x619.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/8-mapo-tofu-photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-1020x821.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/8-mapo-tofu-photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-1180x950.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/8-mapo-tofu-photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-960x773.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/8-mapo-tofu-photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-240x193.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/8-mapo-tofu-photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-375x302.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/8-mapo-tofu-photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-520x419.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1490px) 100vw, 1490px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Brandon Jew of Mister Jiu's contributed a fiery, flavorful mapo tofu. \u003ccite>(Quincy Stamper, Asian Art Museum)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Brandon Jew made his own creamy silken tofu out of Hodo’s soy milk and riffed on the classic mapo tofu with an explosion of spicy flavors in his rib eye cap sauce, with fermented black beans, bean paste and chilis.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117637\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/9.Stuarts-yuba-NEW.jpg\" alt=\"Stuart Brioza's cold yuba noodles pairs the slippery tofu skin with crunchy toasted quinoa for a multi-sensory bite.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117637\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/9.Stuarts-yuba-NEW.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/9.Stuarts-yuba-NEW-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/9.Stuarts-yuba-NEW-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/9.Stuarts-yuba-NEW-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/9.Stuarts-yuba-NEW-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/9.Stuarts-yuba-NEW-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/9.Stuarts-yuba-NEW-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/9.Stuarts-yuba-NEW-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/9.Stuarts-yuba-NEW-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/9.Stuarts-yuba-NEW-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Stuart Brioza's cold yuba noodles pairs the slippery tofu skin with crunchy toasted quinoa for a multi-sensory bite. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Stuart Brioza had two offerings: cold yuba noodles with toasted quinoa, yuzu pickled mushrooms and tahini-chili oil. And a silken soy milk tofu topped with manila clams and pickled ramps in rice wine vinegar, topped with ramp oil, aged tamari and micro greens.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117643\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/10-state-birdNEW1.jpg\" alt=\"State bird also prepared a silken soy milk tofu topped with manila clams and pickled ramps in rice wine vinegar, topped with ramp oil, aged tamari and micro greens.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117643\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/10-state-birdNEW1.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/10-state-birdNEW1-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/10-state-birdNEW1-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/10-state-birdNEW1-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/10-state-birdNEW1-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/10-state-birdNEW1-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/10-state-birdNEW1-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/10-state-birdNEW1-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/10-state-birdNEW1-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/10-state-birdNEW1-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">State bird also prepared a silken soy milk tofu topped with manila clams and pickled ramps in rice wine vinegar, topped with ramp oil, aged tamari and micro greens. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Annie Somerville of Greens contributed a colorful, classic tofu dish, that still delivers a refreshing punch: fresh spring rolls with firm tofu, vegetable medley, rice noodles, mint, and a crunchy coconut peanut topping.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117639\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1490px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/11-Greens-dish-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW.jpg\" alt=\"Crunchy rainbow of vegetables animate Annie Somerville's fresh spring rolls.\" width=\"1490\" height=\"1200\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117639\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/11-Greens-dish-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW.jpg 1490w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/11-Greens-dish-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-160x129.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/11-Greens-dish-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-800x644.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/11-Greens-dish-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-768x619.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/11-Greens-dish-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-1020x821.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/11-Greens-dish-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-1180x950.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/11-Greens-dish-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-960x773.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/11-Greens-dish-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-240x193.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/11-Greens-dish-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-375x302.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/11-Greens-dish-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-520x419.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1490px) 100vw, 1490px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Crunchy rainbow of vegetables animate Annie Somerville's fresh spring rolls. \u003ccite>(Quincy Stamper, Asian Art Museum)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Past Tasting Menu events have included last year’s homage to the \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2016/06/17/the-summer-of-pork-belly-hits-san-francisco-in-the-form-of-a-meat-shaped-stone/\">venerable pork belly\u003c/a>. Upcoming events for this year include \u003ca href=\"http://www.asianart.org/events/1179\">Flowering Teas\u003c/a> (where you can create your own blend) on June 29, and a \u003ca href=\"http://www.asianart.org/events/1197\">Philippine Feast \u003c/a>on August 17.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a subsequent interview, Minh Tsai added, \" Hodo is at a very pivotal time and place for the good food, craft food movement. The story of Hodo tells us a lot about American culture and food. Like many other craft food makers in the US have done over the past few decades, I set out to recreate elusive memory, recapture a lost art. I wanted to make something that could not be found here. But I knew it existed in another place, other countries. So I knew that people here were missing something. But I also recognize that for tofu/yuba to grow, I will need to continue to innovate and collaborate with chefs.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tim Hall of the Asian Art Museum adds, “the goal of our Tasting Menu programs is to find access points for discovery, connections, and links that foster cultural empathy.”\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "American Masters Chefs Flight Presents 'James Beard: America's First Foodie'",
"title": "American Masters Chefs Flight Presents 'James Beard: America's First Foodie'",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>Though most of us are unfamiliar with the man behind the brand, we understand the name James Beard as synonymous with excellence in all things culinary. An \u003ca href=\"https://www.jamesbeard.org/awards\" target=\"_blank\">annual event named after him\u003c/a> has been honoring America's best chefs, restaurants and food-related media since 1990. The new film \u003cem>James Beard: America's First Foodie\u003c/em> chronicles the life of the man Julia Child referred to as \"the quintessential American cook,\" kicking off a \"Chefs Flight\" of four documentaries profiling Beard, Child, Alice Waters and Jacques Pépin for \u003cem>American Masters\u003c/em>' 31st season Friday, May 19 at 9:00pm on \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/tv/programs/index.jsp?pgmid=24298\" target=\"_blank\">KQED 9\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://youtu.be/okjaNGs6ViE\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>James Beard was born in Portland, Oregon at the dawn of the 20th century to a mother, Elizabeth, who owned a small hotel and was something of a local sensation, both for her cooking and for her liberated lifestyle. The early education she provided in buying and preparing fresh, local foods in season would become the guiding principle for the food movement her son later catalyzed. By his own account, the young Beard was as unrestrained by convention as his libertine mother, understanding at an early age that he was homosexual. He was expelled from Reed College, where he studied acting, for engaging in (then-illegal) same-sex activity. At 19, Beard headed to Europe to study opera, but ended up exercising his large appetite in the bistros of Paris, whose practices he taught to others when he returned to Oregon. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Beard moved to New York in 1937, surviving lean times by cooking for friends in exchange for his supper. From these gatherings came his first success. He and William Rhode (later the editor of \u003ca href=\"http://www.gourmet.com/\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>Gourmet\u003c/em> magazine\u003c/a>) started a catering business called Hors D'Oeuvre, Inc, which provided the recipes for his first cookbook, \u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Doeuvre-Canapes-Library-American-Cooking/dp/076240664X\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>Hors d'oeuvre and Canapes\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, published in 1940. He followed that success with \u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Cook-outdoors-James-Beard/dp/B0007E2IPO/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1493846521&sr=1-1&keywords=cook+it+outdoors+james+beard\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>Cook It Outdoors\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, \"believed to be the first serious book on outdoor cooking,\" according to his \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/1985/01/24/nyregion/james-beard-authority-on-food-dies.html\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>New York Times\u003c/em> obituary\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117055\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/BeardJames-on-the-radio-at-reed-1020x1299.jpeg\" alt=\"\" width=\"640\" height=\"815\" class=\"size-large wp-image-117055\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/BeardJames-on-the-radio-at-reed-1020x1299.jpeg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/BeardJames-on-the-radio-at-reed-160x204.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/BeardJames-on-the-radio-at-reed-800x1019.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/BeardJames-on-the-radio-at-reed-768x978.jpeg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/BeardJames-on-the-radio-at-reed-1180x1503.jpeg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/BeardJames-on-the-radio-at-reed-960x1223.jpeg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/BeardJames-on-the-radio-at-reed-240x306.jpeg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/BeardJames-on-the-radio-at-reed-375x478.jpeg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/BeardJames-on-the-radio-at-reed-520x662.jpeg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef James Beard at Reed College \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Reed College)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In 1946, Beard hosted \u003cem>I Love to Eat\u003c/em> for two seasons on NBC, introducing cooking to TV. He founded The James Beard Cooking School in 1955, teaching people around the country how to cook for the next thirty years. The school eventually settled in Seaside, Oregon, where he taught each summer using the same fresh ingredients his mother prepared in his youth, and in the kitchen of his Greenwich Village brownstone in Manhattan, which also became a popular hangout for the rich and famous. Beard's good friend Julia Child lobbied for the preservation of his Manhattan home shortly after he died in 1985 and, through the efforts of Peter Krump, a former student, and a cadre of well-connected friends, the James Beard Foundation was born.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.pbs.org/wnet/americanmasters/james-beard-americas-first-foodie-film/8432/\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>America's First Foodie\u003c/em>\u003c/a> traces Beard's influence through the many chefs that surrounded him and came after, including Julia Child, Alice Waters, Jeremiah Tower and \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2017/04/12/jacques-ppin-the-art-of-craft-reveals-how-a-french-chef-became-an-american-master/\" target=\"_blank\">Jacques Pépin\u003c/a>, but what remains a mystery is the spirit that animated so many to come together to preserve his legacy. Several close friends affirm Beard's charms, but the man himself is unfortunately not on hand to glamour the viewer. How does one capture the \"life of the party\" when the party has been over for decades?\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117056\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/James-Beard-Julia-Child-Edna-Lewis-photo-Dan-Wynn--1020x1169.jpeg\" alt=\"\" width=\"640\" height=\"733\" class=\"size-large wp-image-117056\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/James-Beard-Julia-Child-Edna-Lewis-photo-Dan-Wynn--1020x1169.jpeg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/James-Beard-Julia-Child-Edna-Lewis-photo-Dan-Wynn--160x183.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/James-Beard-Julia-Child-Edna-Lewis-photo-Dan-Wynn--800x917.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/James-Beard-Julia-Child-Edna-Lewis-photo-Dan-Wynn--768x880.jpeg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/James-Beard-Julia-Child-Edna-Lewis-photo-Dan-Wynn--1180x1353.jpeg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/James-Beard-Julia-Child-Edna-Lewis-photo-Dan-Wynn--960x1101.jpeg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/James-Beard-Julia-Child-Edna-Lewis-photo-Dan-Wynn--240x275.jpeg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/James-Beard-Julia-Child-Edna-Lewis-photo-Dan-Wynn--375x430.jpeg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/James-Beard-Julia-Child-Edna-Lewis-photo-Dan-Wynn--520x596.jpeg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chefs Julia Child, James Beard and Edna Lewis \u003ccite>(Dan Wynn/Courtesy of the Wynn family and the James Beard Foundation)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There are testimonials to Beard's innovation, intelligence and wit. We hear that he was a master raconteur, loved a juicy piece of gossip, and was something of a scoundrel, skipping out on countless restaurant checks and flashing some of his guests and neighbors. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Beard scandalized his peers by endorsing everything from Planters Peanuts to Adolph's Meat Tenderizer to raise money for his cooking school, a move he later regretted, referring to himself as a \"gastronomic whore.\" We see a few saucy quotes from his books and learn of his participation in the design of The Four Seasons, an influential New York eatery that combined Beard's twin loves of theater and food. Interesting tidbit: the restaurant was among the first to change its menu seasonally, hence the name. Nevertheless, there are some awkward moments regarding Beard's personal life that darken the otherwise rosy portrait of the man who helped launch the farm to table movement, not the least of which is the low opinion many of his close friends held of his (apparently) life-long companion.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The film is a bit like a soufflé that fails to rise. All the right ingredients are present and seemingly in the correct proportions: celebrity chef testimonials, a few Beard recipes prepared by Jacques Pépin and Naomi Pomery, archival images of Beard's youth and early education, early TV appearances by the man himself, and glitzy footage of James Beard Awards bestowed. But something is missing; perhaps it is just the impossibility of knowing the true power of a celebrity's charm without the man present to demonstrate. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117057\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/jb-with-mustache-young056-800x963.jpeg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"963\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-117057\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/jb-with-mustache-young056-800x963.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/jb-with-mustache-young056-160x193.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/jb-with-mustache-young056-768x924.jpeg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/jb-with-mustache-young056-1020x1227.jpeg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/jb-with-mustache-young056-1180x1420.jpeg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/jb-with-mustache-young056-960x1155.jpeg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/jb-with-mustache-young056-240x289.jpeg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/jb-with-mustache-young056-375x451.jpeg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/jb-with-mustache-young056-520x626.jpeg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef James Beard \u003ccite>(Dan Wynn/Courtesy of the Wynn family and the James Beard Foundation)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There is no denying Beard's outsized personality and seemingly unquenchable lust for life. We learn how his innovations continue to proliferate within the food community today, though the film is unable to effectively convey the ineffable quality that made James Beard so beloved among his peers, inspiring a group of dedicated influencers to create a monument to his memory that became \"the Academy Awards of the food world.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The man whose face adorns the ultimate culinary seal of approval loved people, according to Julia Child, \"loved his work, loved gossip, loved to eat, [and] loved a good time.\" Seems like those are the very qualities necessary -- other than the food itself -- for a good meal, and the ones that cannot be prescribed in a cookbook. And maybe that's the secret to James Beard, he contained that extra something special that made a good dinner party great. \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "American Masters kicks off a \"Chefs Flight\" of four food documentaries with a new film about James Beard. The show airs on KQED 9 Friday, May 19 at 9:00pm. ",
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"description": "American Masters kicks off a "Chefs Flight" of four food documentaries with a new film about James Beard. The show airs on KQED 9 Friday, May 19 at 9:00pm. ",
"title": "American Masters Chefs Flight Presents 'James Beard: America's First Foodie' | KQED",
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"headline": "American Masters Chefs Flight Presents 'James Beard: America's First Foodie'",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Though most of us are unfamiliar with the man behind the brand, we understand the name James Beard as synonymous with excellence in all things culinary. An \u003ca href=\"https://www.jamesbeard.org/awards\" target=\"_blank\">annual event named after him\u003c/a> has been honoring America's best chefs, restaurants and food-related media since 1990. The new film \u003cem>James Beard: America's First Foodie\u003c/em> chronicles the life of the man Julia Child referred to as \"the quintessential American cook,\" kicking off a \"Chefs Flight\" of four documentaries profiling Beard, Child, Alice Waters and Jacques Pépin for \u003cem>American Masters\u003c/em>' 31st season Friday, May 19 at 9:00pm on \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/tv/programs/index.jsp?pgmid=24298\" target=\"_blank\">KQED 9\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/okjaNGs6ViE'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/okjaNGs6ViE'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cp>James Beard was born in Portland, Oregon at the dawn of the 20th century to a mother, Elizabeth, who owned a small hotel and was something of a local sensation, both for her cooking and for her liberated lifestyle. The early education she provided in buying and preparing fresh, local foods in season would become the guiding principle for the food movement her son later catalyzed. By his own account, the young Beard was as unrestrained by convention as his libertine mother, understanding at an early age that he was homosexual. He was expelled from Reed College, where he studied acting, for engaging in (then-illegal) same-sex activity. At 19, Beard headed to Europe to study opera, but ended up exercising his large appetite in the bistros of Paris, whose practices he taught to others when he returned to Oregon. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Beard moved to New York in 1937, surviving lean times by cooking for friends in exchange for his supper. From these gatherings came his first success. He and William Rhode (later the editor of \u003ca href=\"http://www.gourmet.com/\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>Gourmet\u003c/em> magazine\u003c/a>) started a catering business called Hors D'Oeuvre, Inc, which provided the recipes for his first cookbook, \u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Doeuvre-Canapes-Library-American-Cooking/dp/076240664X\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>Hors d'oeuvre and Canapes\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, published in 1940. He followed that success with \u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Cook-outdoors-James-Beard/dp/B0007E2IPO/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1493846521&sr=1-1&keywords=cook+it+outdoors+james+beard\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>Cook It Outdoors\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, \"believed to be the first serious book on outdoor cooking,\" according to his \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/1985/01/24/nyregion/james-beard-authority-on-food-dies.html\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>New York Times\u003c/em> obituary\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117055\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/BeardJames-on-the-radio-at-reed-1020x1299.jpeg\" alt=\"\" width=\"640\" height=\"815\" class=\"size-large wp-image-117055\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/BeardJames-on-the-radio-at-reed-1020x1299.jpeg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/BeardJames-on-the-radio-at-reed-160x204.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/BeardJames-on-the-radio-at-reed-800x1019.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/BeardJames-on-the-radio-at-reed-768x978.jpeg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/BeardJames-on-the-radio-at-reed-1180x1503.jpeg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/BeardJames-on-the-radio-at-reed-960x1223.jpeg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/BeardJames-on-the-radio-at-reed-240x306.jpeg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/BeardJames-on-the-radio-at-reed-375x478.jpeg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/BeardJames-on-the-radio-at-reed-520x662.jpeg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef James Beard at Reed College \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Reed College)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In 1946, Beard hosted \u003cem>I Love to Eat\u003c/em> for two seasons on NBC, introducing cooking to TV. He founded The James Beard Cooking School in 1955, teaching people around the country how to cook for the next thirty years. The school eventually settled in Seaside, Oregon, where he taught each summer using the same fresh ingredients his mother prepared in his youth, and in the kitchen of his Greenwich Village brownstone in Manhattan, which also became a popular hangout for the rich and famous. Beard's good friend Julia Child lobbied for the preservation of his Manhattan home shortly after he died in 1985 and, through the efforts of Peter Krump, a former student, and a cadre of well-connected friends, the James Beard Foundation was born.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.pbs.org/wnet/americanmasters/james-beard-americas-first-foodie-film/8432/\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>America's First Foodie\u003c/em>\u003c/a> traces Beard's influence through the many chefs that surrounded him and came after, including Julia Child, Alice Waters, Jeremiah Tower and \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2017/04/12/jacques-ppin-the-art-of-craft-reveals-how-a-french-chef-became-an-american-master/\" target=\"_blank\">Jacques Pépin\u003c/a>, but what remains a mystery is the spirit that animated so many to come together to preserve his legacy. Several close friends affirm Beard's charms, but the man himself is unfortunately not on hand to glamour the viewer. How does one capture the \"life of the party\" when the party has been over for decades?\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117056\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/James-Beard-Julia-Child-Edna-Lewis-photo-Dan-Wynn--1020x1169.jpeg\" alt=\"\" width=\"640\" height=\"733\" class=\"size-large wp-image-117056\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/James-Beard-Julia-Child-Edna-Lewis-photo-Dan-Wynn--1020x1169.jpeg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/James-Beard-Julia-Child-Edna-Lewis-photo-Dan-Wynn--160x183.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/James-Beard-Julia-Child-Edna-Lewis-photo-Dan-Wynn--800x917.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/James-Beard-Julia-Child-Edna-Lewis-photo-Dan-Wynn--768x880.jpeg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/James-Beard-Julia-Child-Edna-Lewis-photo-Dan-Wynn--1180x1353.jpeg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/James-Beard-Julia-Child-Edna-Lewis-photo-Dan-Wynn--960x1101.jpeg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/James-Beard-Julia-Child-Edna-Lewis-photo-Dan-Wynn--240x275.jpeg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/James-Beard-Julia-Child-Edna-Lewis-photo-Dan-Wynn--375x430.jpeg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/James-Beard-Julia-Child-Edna-Lewis-photo-Dan-Wynn--520x596.jpeg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chefs Julia Child, James Beard and Edna Lewis \u003ccite>(Dan Wynn/Courtesy of the Wynn family and the James Beard Foundation)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There are testimonials to Beard's innovation, intelligence and wit. We hear that he was a master raconteur, loved a juicy piece of gossip, and was something of a scoundrel, skipping out on countless restaurant checks and flashing some of his guests and neighbors. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Beard scandalized his peers by endorsing everything from Planters Peanuts to Adolph's Meat Tenderizer to raise money for his cooking school, a move he later regretted, referring to himself as a \"gastronomic whore.\" We see a few saucy quotes from his books and learn of his participation in the design of The Four Seasons, an influential New York eatery that combined Beard's twin loves of theater and food. Interesting tidbit: the restaurant was among the first to change its menu seasonally, hence the name. Nevertheless, there are some awkward moments regarding Beard's personal life that darken the otherwise rosy portrait of the man who helped launch the farm to table movement, not the least of which is the low opinion many of his close friends held of his (apparently) life-long companion.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The film is a bit like a soufflé that fails to rise. All the right ingredients are present and seemingly in the correct proportions: celebrity chef testimonials, a few Beard recipes prepared by Jacques Pépin and Naomi Pomery, archival images of Beard's youth and early education, early TV appearances by the man himself, and glitzy footage of James Beard Awards bestowed. But something is missing; perhaps it is just the impossibility of knowing the true power of a celebrity's charm without the man present to demonstrate. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117057\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/jb-with-mustache-young056-800x963.jpeg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"963\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-117057\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/jb-with-mustache-young056-800x963.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/jb-with-mustache-young056-160x193.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/jb-with-mustache-young056-768x924.jpeg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/jb-with-mustache-young056-1020x1227.jpeg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/jb-with-mustache-young056-1180x1420.jpeg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/jb-with-mustache-young056-960x1155.jpeg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/jb-with-mustache-young056-240x289.jpeg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/jb-with-mustache-young056-375x451.jpeg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/jb-with-mustache-young056-520x626.jpeg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef James Beard \u003ccite>(Dan Wynn/Courtesy of the Wynn family and the James Beard Foundation)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There is no denying Beard's outsized personality and seemingly unquenchable lust for life. We learn how his innovations continue to proliferate within the food community today, though the film is unable to effectively convey the ineffable quality that made James Beard so beloved among his peers, inspiring a group of dedicated influencers to create a monument to his memory that became \"the Academy Awards of the food world.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The man whose face adorns the ultimate culinary seal of approval loved people, according to Julia Child, \"loved his work, loved gossip, loved to eat, [and] loved a good time.\" Seems like those are the very qualities necessary -- other than the food itself -- for a good meal, and the ones that cannot be prescribed in a cookbook. And maybe that's the secret to James Beard, he contained that extra something special that made a good dinner party great. \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "'Vegetable Whisperer' Chef Plants The Seeds Of His Own Reinvention",
"title": "'Vegetable Whisperer' Chef Plants The Seeds Of His Own Reinvention",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>Some people call Jeremy Fox the \"vegetable whisperer,\" the California chef who can coax remarkable flavors out of every part of his produce, even the flowers and leaves that most chefs throw away. One of his famous first-course dishes combines twice-shucked spring peas with macadamia nuts and white chocolate. He has reinvented cooking with vegetables, and in the process, reinvented himself, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On Wednesdays, you'll find Fox at the Santa Monica farmer's market, greeting fellow chefs and checking out the veggies at farmer Alex Weiser's stand. He marvels at the Chinese garlic — right out of the field, still packed with dirt. Then he kibitzes with Weiser about some unconventional tubers: oka, yacon , and colorful Peruvian mashua.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The mashua is almost in the Nasturtium family, so it's like really spicy, almost like horseradish wasabi,\" says Fox. \"But when you cook it, it mellows out a lot.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"How could I not grow that?\" Weiser says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Plus, it's fun to say mashua,\" Fox adds.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116840\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1212_custom-ff2a7137db743e0f18c2346a5fe9d7a7d100d36b.jpg\" alt=\"Chefs and home cooks alike flock to the Wednesday Santa Monica Farmers Market. This is where Jeremy Fox finds ingredients like salsify flowers and parts of vegetables often overlooked or discarded by other cooks.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1346\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116840\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1212_custom-ff2a7137db743e0f18c2346a5fe9d7a7d100d36b.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1212_custom-ff2a7137db743e0f18c2346a5fe9d7a7d100d36b-160x108.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1212_custom-ff2a7137db743e0f18c2346a5fe9d7a7d100d36b-800x538.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1212_custom-ff2a7137db743e0f18c2346a5fe9d7a7d100d36b-768x517.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1212_custom-ff2a7137db743e0f18c2346a5fe9d7a7d100d36b-1020x686.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1212_custom-ff2a7137db743e0f18c2346a5fe9d7a7d100d36b-1180x794.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1212_custom-ff2a7137db743e0f18c2346a5fe9d7a7d100d36b-960x646.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1212_custom-ff2a7137db743e0f18c2346a5fe9d7a7d100d36b-240x162.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1212_custom-ff2a7137db743e0f18c2346a5fe9d7a7d100d36b-375x252.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1212_custom-ff2a7137db743e0f18c2346a5fe9d7a7d100d36b-520x350.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chefs and home cooks alike flock to the Wednesday Santa Monica Farmers Market. This is where Jeremy Fox finds ingredients like salsify flowers and parts of vegetables often overlooked or discarded by other cooks. \u003ccite>(Oriana Koren for NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Weiser says Fox has inspired him to grow unusual vegetables at his farm in the Tehachapi mountains. \"He appreciates flavor and uniqueness and texture,\" says the farmer. \"I think he realizes, too, where we farm, we have snowfall and hard frost, which give our crops flavor, that terroir.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Jeremy Fox is a little like those vegetables — with a hard knock life. The 40-year-old grew up in Cleveland and Atlanta eating fast food, and taking far too many prescription medicines for attention-deficit/hyperactivity disorder. In college, he was inspired to start cooking after watching the culinary film, \"Big Night.\" He went to culinary school in Charleston, S.C., then worked in a few restaurants in the South before heading to California. There, he eventually landed a job at the Bay Area restaurant, Manresa, where he actually started out in charge of the\u003cem> meat\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116841\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1477_custom-315d17c93b42c1237bcceba053e415591428d771-1020x1532.jpg\" alt=\"Portrait of chef Jeremy Fox at his Santa Monica restaurant, Rustic Canyon.\" width=\"640\" height=\"961\" class=\"size-large wp-image-116841\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1477_custom-315d17c93b42c1237bcceba053e415591428d771-1020x1532.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1477_custom-315d17c93b42c1237bcceba053e415591428d771-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1477_custom-315d17c93b42c1237bcceba053e415591428d771-800x1201.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1477_custom-315d17c93b42c1237bcceba053e415591428d771-768x1153.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1477_custom-315d17c93b42c1237bcceba053e415591428d771-1180x1772.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1477_custom-315d17c93b42c1237bcceba053e415591428d771-960x1441.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1477_custom-315d17c93b42c1237bcceba053e415591428d771-240x360.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1477_custom-315d17c93b42c1237bcceba053e415591428d771-375x563.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1477_custom-315d17c93b42c1237bcceba053e415591428d771-520x781.jpg 520w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1477_custom-315d17c93b42c1237bcceba053e415591428d771.jpg 1332w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Portrait of chef Jeremy Fox at his Santa Monica restaurant, Rustic Canyon. \u003ccite>(Oriana Koren for NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"We were getting in whole pigs and trying to work out charcuterie,\" Fox recalls, \"using every part of the pig, nose to tail.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That philosophy shaped Fox's approach to vegetables when he became chef de cuisine at Manresa. The restaurant had its own farm.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"He would take mushrooms, and smoke them and fry them, and so it took on... a bacon-like texture,\" says chef Kim Alter, who owns Nightbird restaurant in San Francisco. She worked with Fox at Manresa, and then at Ubuntu, where he became head chef.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"He would cook the vegetables like meat,\" says Alter. \"He would truss them, baste them like meat. And it just really opened your eyes as to how you could treat a radish... like a pig. It was pretty cool. And it was all delicious.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ubuntu was \u003cem>very\u003c/em> California: a vegetarian restaurant located below a yoga studio in Napa. One evening in 2008, then-New York Times food critic Frank Bruni came for dinner. He was impressed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Jeremy's a superbly talented chef,\" Bruni says. \"He was determined to make that vegetarian experience as enjoyable as a restaurant with all ingredients at its disposal.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bruni named Ubuntu the country's second best restaurant outside of New York. Here's an excerpt of his review:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Ubuntu is proof that you can do away with all flesh and hold on to hedonism, at least if you keep enough butter, cream, cheese and wine at hand. Ubuntu is where virtue meets naughty sensuality. It's the Angelina Jolie of restaurants.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bruni's review changed everything.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116842\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/221-potatoes-kimchi-egg_custom-0ab9c0624591544bd3cf9de575aef511fe0873c7-1020x1391.jpg\" alt=\"Potatoes, ramp kimchi, radish and soft-boiled egg. The recipe can be found in Jeremy Fox's new cookbook "On Vegetables."\" width=\"640\" height=\"873\" class=\"size-large wp-image-116842\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/221-potatoes-kimchi-egg_custom-0ab9c0624591544bd3cf9de575aef511fe0873c7-1020x1391.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/221-potatoes-kimchi-egg_custom-0ab9c0624591544bd3cf9de575aef511fe0873c7-160x218.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/221-potatoes-kimchi-egg_custom-0ab9c0624591544bd3cf9de575aef511fe0873c7-800x1091.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/221-potatoes-kimchi-egg_custom-0ab9c0624591544bd3cf9de575aef511fe0873c7-768x1047.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/221-potatoes-kimchi-egg_custom-0ab9c0624591544bd3cf9de575aef511fe0873c7-1180x1609.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/221-potatoes-kimchi-egg_custom-0ab9c0624591544bd3cf9de575aef511fe0873c7-960x1309.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/221-potatoes-kimchi-egg_custom-0ab9c0624591544bd3cf9de575aef511fe0873c7-240x327.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/221-potatoes-kimchi-egg_custom-0ab9c0624591544bd3cf9de575aef511fe0873c7-375x511.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/221-potatoes-kimchi-egg_custom-0ab9c0624591544bd3cf9de575aef511fe0873c7-520x709.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Potatoes, ramp kimchi, radish and soft-boiled egg. The recipe can be found in Jeremy Fox's new cookbook \"On Vegetables.\" \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Rick Poon/Phaidon)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Suddenly, the restaurant was packed, but unprepared. Health inspectors shut it down till they got better refrigeration. But the accolades for Fox kept coming. Food & Wine Magazine named him the best new chef of 2008. He was flown around the country for interviews and events.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the pressure was too much. Fox says he wasn't sleeping or eating. He lost 40 pounds. His marriage to pastry chef Deanie Hickox fell apart. And he self-medicated with a concoction of sleeping pills and amphetamines. \"I could have died from the amount I was taking,\" he says. \"I kinda felt like I was on a plane in horrific turbulence, hanging on to the sides. That's pretty much how I felt every hour of every day, for several years, to where everything was impending disaster. Lots of anxiety, lots of paranoia, and I lost my grip on everything. \"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fox left Ubuntu, and pretty much dropped out of the scene.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Everything got so negative,\" he recalls. \"I'd been told to take a break or get some help. Eventually, it was like, well, let's just end this.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fox spent a few years in therapy, cleaned up his act, and moved to Los Angeles. He is now head chef at Rustic Canyon restaurant in Santa Monica. He has a new wife, gourmet buyer Rachael Sheridan, and a 16-month-old daughter named Birdie.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Old friends are happy for him. \"Now I think he's got this really amazing balance,\" says Alter. \"He's happy, he's doing great food in an environment he loves and that supports him, with a great, beautiful woman and a child.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And Fox has finally finished the cookbook he started when he was at Ubuntu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116843\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1469_custom-2067b22a6538b40ece7f6fef962ce5396fbc8230.jpg\" alt=\"Fox at the Santa Monica restaurant, Rustic Canyon, where he's now head chef. Born in Cleveland, he proudly wears his 'Ohio Against the World' hat. And beneath his apron, the proud father of 16 month-old-daughter Birdie wears his "pop" sweatshirt.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1342\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116843\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1469_custom-2067b22a6538b40ece7f6fef962ce5396fbc8230.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1469_custom-2067b22a6538b40ece7f6fef962ce5396fbc8230-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1469_custom-2067b22a6538b40ece7f6fef962ce5396fbc8230-800x537.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1469_custom-2067b22a6538b40ece7f6fef962ce5396fbc8230-768x515.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1469_custom-2067b22a6538b40ece7f6fef962ce5396fbc8230-1020x684.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1469_custom-2067b22a6538b40ece7f6fef962ce5396fbc8230-1180x792.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1469_custom-2067b22a6538b40ece7f6fef962ce5396fbc8230-960x644.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1469_custom-2067b22a6538b40ece7f6fef962ce5396fbc8230-240x161.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1469_custom-2067b22a6538b40ece7f6fef962ce5396fbc8230-375x252.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1469_custom-2067b22a6538b40ece7f6fef962ce5396fbc8230-520x349.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fox at the Santa Monica restaurant, Rustic Canyon, where he's now head chef. Born in Cleveland, he proudly wears his 'Ohio Against the World' hat. And beneath his apron, the proud father of 16 month-old-daughter Birdie wears his \"pop\" sweatshirt. \u003ccite>(Oriana Koren for NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"Finding out I was gonna be a dad was a huge motivator,\" he says, \"to create something that this little kid could be proud of.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With his newly published book \"On Vegetables\" and a fourth nomination for a James Beard Award, chef Jeremy Fox is back. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Some people call Jeremy Fox the \"vegetable whisperer,\" the California chef who can coax remarkable flavors out of every part of his produce, even the flowers and leaves that most chefs throw away. One of his famous first-course dishes combines twice-shucked spring peas with macadamia nuts and white chocolate. He has reinvented cooking with vegetables, and in the process, reinvented himself, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On Wednesdays, you'll find Fox at the Santa Monica farmer's market, greeting fellow chefs and checking out the veggies at farmer Alex Weiser's stand. He marvels at the Chinese garlic — right out of the field, still packed with dirt. Then he kibitzes with Weiser about some unconventional tubers: oka, yacon , and colorful Peruvian mashua.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The mashua is almost in the Nasturtium family, so it's like really spicy, almost like horseradish wasabi,\" says Fox. \"But when you cook it, it mellows out a lot.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"How could I not grow that?\" Weiser says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Plus, it's fun to say mashua,\" Fox adds.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116840\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1212_custom-ff2a7137db743e0f18c2346a5fe9d7a7d100d36b.jpg\" alt=\"Chefs and home cooks alike flock to the Wednesday Santa Monica Farmers Market. This is where Jeremy Fox finds ingredients like salsify flowers and parts of vegetables often overlooked or discarded by other cooks.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1346\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116840\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1212_custom-ff2a7137db743e0f18c2346a5fe9d7a7d100d36b.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1212_custom-ff2a7137db743e0f18c2346a5fe9d7a7d100d36b-160x108.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1212_custom-ff2a7137db743e0f18c2346a5fe9d7a7d100d36b-800x538.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1212_custom-ff2a7137db743e0f18c2346a5fe9d7a7d100d36b-768x517.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1212_custom-ff2a7137db743e0f18c2346a5fe9d7a7d100d36b-1020x686.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1212_custom-ff2a7137db743e0f18c2346a5fe9d7a7d100d36b-1180x794.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1212_custom-ff2a7137db743e0f18c2346a5fe9d7a7d100d36b-960x646.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1212_custom-ff2a7137db743e0f18c2346a5fe9d7a7d100d36b-240x162.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1212_custom-ff2a7137db743e0f18c2346a5fe9d7a7d100d36b-375x252.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1212_custom-ff2a7137db743e0f18c2346a5fe9d7a7d100d36b-520x350.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chefs and home cooks alike flock to the Wednesday Santa Monica Farmers Market. This is where Jeremy Fox finds ingredients like salsify flowers and parts of vegetables often overlooked or discarded by other cooks. \u003ccite>(Oriana Koren for NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Weiser says Fox has inspired him to grow unusual vegetables at his farm in the Tehachapi mountains. \"He appreciates flavor and uniqueness and texture,\" says the farmer. \"I think he realizes, too, where we farm, we have snowfall and hard frost, which give our crops flavor, that terroir.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Jeremy Fox is a little like those vegetables — with a hard knock life. The 40-year-old grew up in Cleveland and Atlanta eating fast food, and taking far too many prescription medicines for attention-deficit/hyperactivity disorder. In college, he was inspired to start cooking after watching the culinary film, \"Big Night.\" He went to culinary school in Charleston, S.C., then worked in a few restaurants in the South before heading to California. There, he eventually landed a job at the Bay Area restaurant, Manresa, where he actually started out in charge of the\u003cem> meat\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116841\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1477_custom-315d17c93b42c1237bcceba053e415591428d771-1020x1532.jpg\" alt=\"Portrait of chef Jeremy Fox at his Santa Monica restaurant, Rustic Canyon.\" width=\"640\" height=\"961\" class=\"size-large wp-image-116841\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1477_custom-315d17c93b42c1237bcceba053e415591428d771-1020x1532.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1477_custom-315d17c93b42c1237bcceba053e415591428d771-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1477_custom-315d17c93b42c1237bcceba053e415591428d771-800x1201.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1477_custom-315d17c93b42c1237bcceba053e415591428d771-768x1153.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1477_custom-315d17c93b42c1237bcceba053e415591428d771-1180x1772.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1477_custom-315d17c93b42c1237bcceba053e415591428d771-960x1441.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1477_custom-315d17c93b42c1237bcceba053e415591428d771-240x360.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1477_custom-315d17c93b42c1237bcceba053e415591428d771-375x563.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1477_custom-315d17c93b42c1237bcceba053e415591428d771-520x781.jpg 520w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1477_custom-315d17c93b42c1237bcceba053e415591428d771.jpg 1332w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Portrait of chef Jeremy Fox at his Santa Monica restaurant, Rustic Canyon. \u003ccite>(Oriana Koren for NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"We were getting in whole pigs and trying to work out charcuterie,\" Fox recalls, \"using every part of the pig, nose to tail.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That philosophy shaped Fox's approach to vegetables when he became chef de cuisine at Manresa. The restaurant had its own farm.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"He would take mushrooms, and smoke them and fry them, and so it took on... a bacon-like texture,\" says chef Kim Alter, who owns Nightbird restaurant in San Francisco. She worked with Fox at Manresa, and then at Ubuntu, where he became head chef.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"He would cook the vegetables like meat,\" says Alter. \"He would truss them, baste them like meat. And it just really opened your eyes as to how you could treat a radish... like a pig. It was pretty cool. And it was all delicious.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ubuntu was \u003cem>very\u003c/em> California: a vegetarian restaurant located below a yoga studio in Napa. One evening in 2008, then-New York Times food critic Frank Bruni came for dinner. He was impressed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Jeremy's a superbly talented chef,\" Bruni says. \"He was determined to make that vegetarian experience as enjoyable as a restaurant with all ingredients at its disposal.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bruni named Ubuntu the country's second best restaurant outside of New York. Here's an excerpt of his review:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Ubuntu is proof that you can do away with all flesh and hold on to hedonism, at least if you keep enough butter, cream, cheese and wine at hand. Ubuntu is where virtue meets naughty sensuality. It's the Angelina Jolie of restaurants.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bruni's review changed everything.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116842\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/221-potatoes-kimchi-egg_custom-0ab9c0624591544bd3cf9de575aef511fe0873c7-1020x1391.jpg\" alt=\"Potatoes, ramp kimchi, radish and soft-boiled egg. The recipe can be found in Jeremy Fox's new cookbook "On Vegetables."\" width=\"640\" height=\"873\" class=\"size-large wp-image-116842\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/221-potatoes-kimchi-egg_custom-0ab9c0624591544bd3cf9de575aef511fe0873c7-1020x1391.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/221-potatoes-kimchi-egg_custom-0ab9c0624591544bd3cf9de575aef511fe0873c7-160x218.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/221-potatoes-kimchi-egg_custom-0ab9c0624591544bd3cf9de575aef511fe0873c7-800x1091.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/221-potatoes-kimchi-egg_custom-0ab9c0624591544bd3cf9de575aef511fe0873c7-768x1047.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/221-potatoes-kimchi-egg_custom-0ab9c0624591544bd3cf9de575aef511fe0873c7-1180x1609.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/221-potatoes-kimchi-egg_custom-0ab9c0624591544bd3cf9de575aef511fe0873c7-960x1309.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/221-potatoes-kimchi-egg_custom-0ab9c0624591544bd3cf9de575aef511fe0873c7-240x327.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/221-potatoes-kimchi-egg_custom-0ab9c0624591544bd3cf9de575aef511fe0873c7-375x511.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/221-potatoes-kimchi-egg_custom-0ab9c0624591544bd3cf9de575aef511fe0873c7-520x709.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Potatoes, ramp kimchi, radish and soft-boiled egg. The recipe can be found in Jeremy Fox's new cookbook \"On Vegetables.\" \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Rick Poon/Phaidon)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Suddenly, the restaurant was packed, but unprepared. Health inspectors shut it down till they got better refrigeration. But the accolades for Fox kept coming. Food & Wine Magazine named him the best new chef of 2008. He was flown around the country for interviews and events.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the pressure was too much. Fox says he wasn't sleeping or eating. He lost 40 pounds. His marriage to pastry chef Deanie Hickox fell apart. And he self-medicated with a concoction of sleeping pills and amphetamines. \"I could have died from the amount I was taking,\" he says. \"I kinda felt like I was on a plane in horrific turbulence, hanging on to the sides. That's pretty much how I felt every hour of every day, for several years, to where everything was impending disaster. Lots of anxiety, lots of paranoia, and I lost my grip on everything. \"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fox left Ubuntu, and pretty much dropped out of the scene.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Everything got so negative,\" he recalls. \"I'd been told to take a break or get some help. Eventually, it was like, well, let's just end this.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fox spent a few years in therapy, cleaned up his act, and moved to Los Angeles. He is now head chef at Rustic Canyon restaurant in Santa Monica. He has a new wife, gourmet buyer Rachael Sheridan, and a 16-month-old daughter named Birdie.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Old friends are happy for him. \"Now I think he's got this really amazing balance,\" says Alter. \"He's happy, he's doing great food in an environment he loves and that supports him, with a great, beautiful woman and a child.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And Fox has finally finished the cookbook he started when he was at Ubuntu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116843\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1469_custom-2067b22a6538b40ece7f6fef962ce5396fbc8230.jpg\" alt=\"Fox at the Santa Monica restaurant, Rustic Canyon, where he's now head chef. Born in Cleveland, he proudly wears his 'Ohio Against the World' hat. And beneath his apron, the proud father of 16 month-old-daughter Birdie wears his "pop" sweatshirt.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1342\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116843\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1469_custom-2067b22a6538b40ece7f6fef962ce5396fbc8230.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1469_custom-2067b22a6538b40ece7f6fef962ce5396fbc8230-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1469_custom-2067b22a6538b40ece7f6fef962ce5396fbc8230-800x537.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1469_custom-2067b22a6538b40ece7f6fef962ce5396fbc8230-768x515.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1469_custom-2067b22a6538b40ece7f6fef962ce5396fbc8230-1020x684.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1469_custom-2067b22a6538b40ece7f6fef962ce5396fbc8230-1180x792.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1469_custom-2067b22a6538b40ece7f6fef962ce5396fbc8230-960x644.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1469_custom-2067b22a6538b40ece7f6fef962ce5396fbc8230-240x161.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1469_custom-2067b22a6538b40ece7f6fef962ce5396fbc8230-375x252.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1469_custom-2067b22a6538b40ece7f6fef962ce5396fbc8230-520x349.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fox at the Santa Monica restaurant, Rustic Canyon, where he's now head chef. Born in Cleveland, he proudly wears his 'Ohio Against the World' hat. And beneath his apron, the proud father of 16 month-old-daughter Birdie wears his \"pop\" sweatshirt. \u003ccite>(Oriana Koren for NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"Finding out I was gonna be a dad was a huge motivator,\" he says, \"to create something that this little kid could be proud of.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With his newly published book \"On Vegetables\" and a fourth nomination for a James Beard Award, chef Jeremy Fox is back. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "Jacques Pépin: The Art of Craft Reveals How a French Chef Became an ‘American Master’",
"title": "Jacques Pépin: The Art of Craft Reveals How a French Chef Became an ‘American Master’",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>There are only two things wrong with Peter L. Stein's \u003cem>American Masters\u003c/em> documentary \u003ca href=\"http://www.pbs.org/wnet/americanmasters/jacques-pepin-art-craft-film/8435/\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>Jacques Pépin: The Art of Craft\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, which premieres at San Francisco's Castro Theatre on Tuesday, April 25, 2017 and will premiere nationally on PBS stations Friday, May 26, at 9pm. First, it's not long enough; Pépin is such a charming character that -- especially in film digest form -- he leaves us wanting more. The film fizzes, pops and then is gone, like the delicate bubbles in a fine champagne. Second, this \"American\" master's French accent is still pretty thick, even after all these years. Though that is partially the point. In a political climate that puzzlingly discounts the contributions of immigrants, Pépin's adventure is a buoyant illustration of the catalytic grit, wit and innovation one newcomer can bring to an America still dreaming. Stein says, \"It's sometimes really nice to remember that people come to these shores, do good in the world and build something that actually changes culture.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Needle scratch. Rewind. Whenever we revisit the lives of celebrity chefs whose revolution eventually stocked our grocery store shelves with foods we now take for granted, we must first imagine the landscape BEFORE they arrived. We have to visit the U.S. supermarket with a young Jacques Pépin to discover with horror the only mushrooms on offer come in a can. The industrial practices that fed the troops in WWII have been weaponized to feed the masses and to make \"daily household drudgery\" (like cooking) a thing of the past. Everything is convenient, pre-sliced and pre-packaged. This idea is repeated in several recent documentaries, but given my own proximity to Rainbow Grocery and Whole Foods market, I still find it hard to grasp.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116730\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2100-Pepin-family-in-front-of-restaurant-1940s-1920.jpg\" alt=\"Jacques Pépin (left), his brother Roland, his mother Jeannette, his younger brother Bichon, and aunts and uncles in front of the family restaurant, Chez Pépin.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1347\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116730\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2100-Pepin-family-in-front-of-restaurant-1940s-1920.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2100-Pepin-family-in-front-of-restaurant-1940s-1920-160x112.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2100-Pepin-family-in-front-of-restaurant-1940s-1920-800x561.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2100-Pepin-family-in-front-of-restaurant-1940s-1920-768x539.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2100-Pepin-family-in-front-of-restaurant-1940s-1920-1020x716.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2100-Pepin-family-in-front-of-restaurant-1940s-1920-1180x828.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2100-Pepin-family-in-front-of-restaurant-1940s-1920-960x674.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2100-Pepin-family-in-front-of-restaurant-1940s-1920-240x168.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2100-Pepin-family-in-front-of-restaurant-1940s-1920-375x263.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2100-Pepin-family-in-front-of-restaurant-1940s-1920-520x365.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jacques Pépin (left), his brother Roland, his mother Jeannette, his younger brother Bichon, and aunts and uncles in front of the family restaurant, Chez Pépin. \u003ccite>(Courtesy Jacques Pépin)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Pépin was no slouch when he arrived in the U.S. in the late 1950s. The film uses re-enactment, family photos and archival footage to cover the chef's early life. His first kitchen experience was in one of the family restaurants his mother opened after the Second World War, which the teenage Pépin parlayed into apprenticeships at some of the finest establishments in Paris. When he was drafted into the French navy, Pépin's work ethic and creativity eventually garnered him the position as personal chef to three French heads of state, including Charles de Gaulle.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116731\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JeunePepin_hires-tiff-ret02-1920-1020x1403.jpg\" alt=\"Jacques Pépin as a young apprentice in front of his mother’s restaurant, Chez Pépin.\" width=\"640\" height=\"880\" class=\"size-large wp-image-116731\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JeunePepin_hires-tiff-ret02-1920-1020x1403.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JeunePepin_hires-tiff-ret02-1920-160x220.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JeunePepin_hires-tiff-ret02-1920-800x1100.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JeunePepin_hires-tiff-ret02-1920-768x1056.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JeunePepin_hires-tiff-ret02-1920-1180x1623.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JeunePepin_hires-tiff-ret02-1920-960x1320.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JeunePepin_hires-tiff-ret02-1920-240x330.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JeunePepin_hires-tiff-ret02-1920-375x516.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JeunePepin_hires-tiff-ret02-1920-520x715.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jacques Pépin as a young apprentice in front of his mother’s restaurant, Chez Pépin. \u003ccite>(Courtesy Jacques Pépin)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116729\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1022-Pepin-brothers-1957-Navy-1920.jpg\" alt=\"Jacques Pépin (left) with his brothers Bichon and Roland, 1957.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1365\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116729\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1022-Pepin-brothers-1957-Navy-1920.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1022-Pepin-brothers-1957-Navy-1920-160x114.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1022-Pepin-brothers-1957-Navy-1920-800x569.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1022-Pepin-brothers-1957-Navy-1920-768x546.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1022-Pepin-brothers-1957-Navy-1920-1020x725.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1022-Pepin-brothers-1957-Navy-1920-1180x839.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1022-Pepin-brothers-1957-Navy-1920-960x683.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1022-Pepin-brothers-1957-Navy-1920-240x171.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1022-Pepin-brothers-1957-Navy-1920-375x267.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1022-Pepin-brothers-1957-Navy-1920-520x370.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jacques Pépin (left) with his brothers Bichon and Roland, 1957. \u003ccite>(Courtesy Jacques Pépin)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Once his military service was over, Pépin headed to New York, landing a job at Le Pavillon, referred to in the film as the \"best restaurant in the U.S.\" at the time. This was probably where the Kennedys came to appreciate his talents, so much so that, after winning the 1960 presidential election, they asked him to serve as White House chef. Another needle scratch. Pépin turned down the job! He chose instead to become Director of Research in the test kitchen for Howard Johnson's, the largest restaurant chain in the U.S. at the time. This move is key to the current celebration of Pépin as a distinctively American master. After serving in the world's great temples of haute cuisine, he decided to learn about mass production, creating recipes for Beef Bourguignon that could be produced in 500 gallon vats and putting the French back in French Fries. A decade later, Pépin left that post to strike out on his own, opening a very popular lunch spot in mid-town Manhattan, La Potagerie, which only served soup.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116748\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1754px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1068_Pepin011_Kitchen_JeanClaude.jpg\" alt=\"Jacques Pepin and his best friend, Jean-Claude Szurdak, in an early magazine photo shoot. \" width=\"1754\" height=\"1276\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116748\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1068_Pepin011_Kitchen_JeanClaude.jpg 1754w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1068_Pepin011_Kitchen_JeanClaude-160x116.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1068_Pepin011_Kitchen_JeanClaude-800x582.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1068_Pepin011_Kitchen_JeanClaude-768x559.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1068_Pepin011_Kitchen_JeanClaude-1020x742.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1068_Pepin011_Kitchen_JeanClaude-1180x858.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1068_Pepin011_Kitchen_JeanClaude-960x698.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1068_Pepin011_Kitchen_JeanClaude-240x175.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1068_Pepin011_Kitchen_JeanClaude-375x273.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1068_Pepin011_Kitchen_JeanClaude-520x378.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1754px) 100vw, 1754px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jacques Pepin and his best friend, Jean-Claude Szurdak, in an early magazine photo shoot. \u003ccite>(Courtesy Jacques Pépin)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116750\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 611px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2170-JP-and-Franey-at-Hojo-commissary-NEW.jpg\" alt=\"Jacques Pépin and Pierre Franey at the Howard Johnsons test kitchen, 1970s.\" width=\"611\" height=\"535\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116750\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2170-JP-and-Franey-at-Hojo-commissary-NEW.jpg 611w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2170-JP-and-Franey-at-Hojo-commissary-NEW-160x140.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2170-JP-and-Franey-at-Hojo-commissary-NEW-240x210.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2170-JP-and-Franey-at-Hojo-commissary-NEW-375x328.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2170-JP-and-Franey-at-Hojo-commissary-NEW-520x455.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 611px) 100vw, 611px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jacques Pépin and Pierre Franey at the Howard Johnsons test kitchen, 1970s. \u003ccite>(Courtesy Pierre Franey Estate)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Eventually, the necessity arose for Pépin to reinvent himself once more. He wrote a cookbook, \u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Technique-Illustrated-Fundamental-Techniques-Cooking/dp/067179020X/ref=sr_1_2?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1491927105&sr=1-2&keywords=la+technique+jacques+pepin\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>La Technique\u003c/em>\u003c/a> that taught Americans much-needed, from what he had observed, basic techniques for food preparation. He followed the success of that first book with another, \u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Methode-Illustrated-Fundamental-Techniques-Hardcover/dp/B011WAFZH4/ref=sr_1_3?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1491927237&sr=1-3&keywords=la+methode+jacques+pepin\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>La Methode\u003c/em>\u003c/a>; the two books were essentially about empowering the home cook. They were revolutionary at the time, demonstrating food basics through step-by-step photographic layouts. Pépin then hit the road, touring extensively to promote the work, which was the only option in an age before cable networks devoted exclusively to food. Exploiting his suave good looks, his natural charm and humor, not to mention that sexy accent, Pépin became the Tom Jones of cooking. Women flocked to his public appearances and swooned. This was the 1970s and the U.S. was pretty hot for all things French. Anthony Bourdain summarizes this idea with the quote that opens the film, \"Before you have sex with another human being, you should be capable of preparing them an omelet to Jacques Pépin's standards the next morning.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116744\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-garden-800x1150.jpg\" alt=\"Jacques Pépin in his garden.\" width=\"800\" height=\"1150\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-116744\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-garden-800x1150.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-garden-160x230.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-garden-768x1104.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-garden-960x1380.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-garden-240x345.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-garden-375x539.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-garden-520x748.jpg 520w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-garden.jpg 969w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jacques Pépin in his garden. \u003ccite>(Courtesy Jacques Pépin)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>So of course TV came calling, most particularly KQED, which produced -- with the very same Peter L. Stein at the helm -- Pépin's first successful cooking series for public TV. While he is extremely accomplished, Pépin makes cooking look easy, without -- paradoxically -- pulling focus from the centrality of work. His amazingly expressive hands communicate volumes -- mastery, wit, joy -- with every small gesture. His emphasis on technique is about developing know-how in your hands, which is communicated through the grace of his own movements. The chef's knife is a baton; the paring knife is a pen. Pépin creates art and music with food, orchestrating the meal as a communion between friends.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116747\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1408px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2054-JP-cooking-demo-holding-mic-NEW.jpg\" alt=\"Jacques Pépin teaching a cooking class in the 1970s.\" width=\"1408\" height=\"1483\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116747\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2054-JP-cooking-demo-holding-mic-NEW.jpg 1408w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2054-JP-cooking-demo-holding-mic-NEW-160x169.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2054-JP-cooking-demo-holding-mic-NEW-800x843.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2054-JP-cooking-demo-holding-mic-NEW-768x809.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2054-JP-cooking-demo-holding-mic-NEW-1020x1074.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2054-JP-cooking-demo-holding-mic-NEW-1180x1243.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2054-JP-cooking-demo-holding-mic-NEW-960x1011.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2054-JP-cooking-demo-holding-mic-NEW-240x253.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2054-JP-cooking-demo-holding-mic-NEW-375x395.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2054-JP-cooking-demo-holding-mic-NEW-520x548.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1408px) 100vw, 1408px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jacques Pépin teaching a cooking class in the 1970s. \u003ccite>(Courtesy Jacques Pépin)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Pépin remained philosophically consistent on TV. With empowerment as his central goal, he utilized each half-hour segment to prepare a dish from start to finish, revealing how cooking is essentially technique and practice. He cemented this idea with another series wherein he taught his daughter Claudine to cook on the small screen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116755\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 900px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-claudine.jpg\" alt=\" Jacques Pépin and his daughter Claudine in his television series (L to R): Today's Gourmet, Jacques Pépin 's Kitchen: Cooking with Claudine, and Chez Pépin.\" width=\"900\" height=\"223\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116755\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-claudine.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-claudine-160x40.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-claudine-800x198.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-claudine-768x190.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-claudine-240x59.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-claudine-375x93.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-claudine-520x129.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 900px) 100vw, 900px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jacques Pépin and his daughter Claudine in his television series (L to R): Today's Gourmet, Jacques Pépin 's Kitchen: Cooking with Claudine, and Chez Pépin. \u003ccite>(screenshots from Jacques Pépin: The Art of Craft)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>But \u003cem>The Art of Craft\u003c/em> is more than just one man's success story. Ultimately, it communicates, with the same breezy charm as its subject, the effect one person can have on a whole culture. This is the crucial idea that seems missing from today's America. We are a stew waiting for that distinctive ingredient that makes everything pop.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pépin, along with a handful of other chefs like him, changed the way Americans perceived food. At one point, Pépin, nearing his 80th birthday, contemplates a wall filled with framed pictures of close friends and people who have been influential in his life. I realized then that his true accomplishment was not becoming a celebrity chef, writing cookbooks or teaching cooking techniques on TV, though they were the tools of his trade. His mission has always been to demonstrate the art of nurturing and the craft of building and fortifying community.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116752\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 953px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/Screen-shot-2017-04-12-at-2.49-NEW.jpg\" alt=\" Jacques Pépin nearing his 80th birthday, contemplates a wall filled with framed pictures of close friends and people who have been influential in his life.\" width=\"953\" height=\"530\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116752\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/Screen-shot-2017-04-12-at-2.49-NEW.jpg 953w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/Screen-shot-2017-04-12-at-2.49-NEW-160x89.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/Screen-shot-2017-04-12-at-2.49-NEW-800x445.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/Screen-shot-2017-04-12-at-2.49-NEW-768x427.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/Screen-shot-2017-04-12-at-2.49-NEW-240x133.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/Screen-shot-2017-04-12-at-2.49-NEW-375x209.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/Screen-shot-2017-04-12-at-2.49-NEW-520x289.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 953px) 100vw, 953px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jacques Pépin nearing his 80th birthday, contemplates a wall filled with framed pictures of close friends and people who have been influential in his life. \u003ccite>(screenshot from Jacques Pépin: The Art of Craft)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>This timely tribute to one immigrant's journey in the U.S. reminds us that change is as likely to arrive on our shores as it is to be home grown, given the right conditions. Everything worth having is worth working for and, as Pépin demonstrates, there are tried and true techniques that, with practice, will help us to master the art of living.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116732\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JP-with-book-DSC_7094-1920.jpg\" alt=\"Jacques Pépin (R), director Peter L. Stein (L), director of photography Vicente Franco, and sound engineer Jose Araujo, during the filming of Pépin’s American Masters documentary, 2016.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1282\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116732\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JP-with-book-DSC_7094-1920.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JP-with-book-DSC_7094-1920-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JP-with-book-DSC_7094-1920-800x534.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JP-with-book-DSC_7094-1920-768x513.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JP-with-book-DSC_7094-1920-1020x681.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JP-with-book-DSC_7094-1920-1180x788.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JP-with-book-DSC_7094-1920-960x641.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JP-with-book-DSC_7094-1920-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JP-with-book-DSC_7094-1920-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JP-with-book-DSC_7094-1920-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jacques Pépin (R), director Peter L. Stein (L), director of photography Vicente Franco, and sound engineer Jose Araujo, during the filming of Pépin’s American Masters documentary, 2016. \u003ccite>(Jennifer Huang )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>https://player.vimeo.com/video/211423771\u003cbr>\nDocumentary maker Peter L. Stein describes some of the special on- and off-screen challenges of bringing Jacques Pépin's story to the screen for PBS's American Masters, and recalls his longtime collaboration with Jacques as producer of many of his early public television series.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Watch a clip from the documentary in which Jacques' wife Gloria shares the story of how she met Jacques.\u003cbr>\nhttps://youtu.be/j0LazvHsuUE\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>There are only two things wrong with Peter L. Stein's \u003cem>American Masters\u003c/em> documentary \u003ca href=\"http://www.pbs.org/wnet/americanmasters/jacques-pepin-art-craft-film/8435/\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>Jacques Pépin: The Art of Craft\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, which premieres at San Francisco's Castro Theatre on Tuesday, April 25, 2017 and will premiere nationally on PBS stations Friday, May 26, at 9pm. First, it's not long enough; Pépin is such a charming character that -- especially in film digest form -- he leaves us wanting more. The film fizzes, pops and then is gone, like the delicate bubbles in a fine champagne. Second, this \"American\" master's French accent is still pretty thick, even after all these years. Though that is partially the point. In a political climate that puzzlingly discounts the contributions of immigrants, Pépin's adventure is a buoyant illustration of the catalytic grit, wit and innovation one newcomer can bring to an America still dreaming. Stein says, \"It's sometimes really nice to remember that people come to these shores, do good in the world and build something that actually changes culture.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Needle scratch. Rewind. Whenever we revisit the lives of celebrity chefs whose revolution eventually stocked our grocery store shelves with foods we now take for granted, we must first imagine the landscape BEFORE they arrived. We have to visit the U.S. supermarket with a young Jacques Pépin to discover with horror the only mushrooms on offer come in a can. The industrial practices that fed the troops in WWII have been weaponized to feed the masses and to make \"daily household drudgery\" (like cooking) a thing of the past. Everything is convenient, pre-sliced and pre-packaged. This idea is repeated in several recent documentaries, but given my own proximity to Rainbow Grocery and Whole Foods market, I still find it hard to grasp.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116730\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2100-Pepin-family-in-front-of-restaurant-1940s-1920.jpg\" alt=\"Jacques Pépin (left), his brother Roland, his mother Jeannette, his younger brother Bichon, and aunts and uncles in front of the family restaurant, Chez Pépin.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1347\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116730\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2100-Pepin-family-in-front-of-restaurant-1940s-1920.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2100-Pepin-family-in-front-of-restaurant-1940s-1920-160x112.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2100-Pepin-family-in-front-of-restaurant-1940s-1920-800x561.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2100-Pepin-family-in-front-of-restaurant-1940s-1920-768x539.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2100-Pepin-family-in-front-of-restaurant-1940s-1920-1020x716.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2100-Pepin-family-in-front-of-restaurant-1940s-1920-1180x828.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2100-Pepin-family-in-front-of-restaurant-1940s-1920-960x674.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2100-Pepin-family-in-front-of-restaurant-1940s-1920-240x168.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2100-Pepin-family-in-front-of-restaurant-1940s-1920-375x263.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2100-Pepin-family-in-front-of-restaurant-1940s-1920-520x365.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jacques Pépin (left), his brother Roland, his mother Jeannette, his younger brother Bichon, and aunts and uncles in front of the family restaurant, Chez Pépin. \u003ccite>(Courtesy Jacques Pépin)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Pépin was no slouch when he arrived in the U.S. in the late 1950s. The film uses re-enactment, family photos and archival footage to cover the chef's early life. His first kitchen experience was in one of the family restaurants his mother opened after the Second World War, which the teenage Pépin parlayed into apprenticeships at some of the finest establishments in Paris. When he was drafted into the French navy, Pépin's work ethic and creativity eventually garnered him the position as personal chef to three French heads of state, including Charles de Gaulle.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116731\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JeunePepin_hires-tiff-ret02-1920-1020x1403.jpg\" alt=\"Jacques Pépin as a young apprentice in front of his mother’s restaurant, Chez Pépin.\" width=\"640\" height=\"880\" class=\"size-large wp-image-116731\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JeunePepin_hires-tiff-ret02-1920-1020x1403.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JeunePepin_hires-tiff-ret02-1920-160x220.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JeunePepin_hires-tiff-ret02-1920-800x1100.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JeunePepin_hires-tiff-ret02-1920-768x1056.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JeunePepin_hires-tiff-ret02-1920-1180x1623.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JeunePepin_hires-tiff-ret02-1920-960x1320.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JeunePepin_hires-tiff-ret02-1920-240x330.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JeunePepin_hires-tiff-ret02-1920-375x516.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JeunePepin_hires-tiff-ret02-1920-520x715.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jacques Pépin as a young apprentice in front of his mother’s restaurant, Chez Pépin. \u003ccite>(Courtesy Jacques Pépin)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116729\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1022-Pepin-brothers-1957-Navy-1920.jpg\" alt=\"Jacques Pépin (left) with his brothers Bichon and Roland, 1957.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1365\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116729\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1022-Pepin-brothers-1957-Navy-1920.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1022-Pepin-brothers-1957-Navy-1920-160x114.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1022-Pepin-brothers-1957-Navy-1920-800x569.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1022-Pepin-brothers-1957-Navy-1920-768x546.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1022-Pepin-brothers-1957-Navy-1920-1020x725.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1022-Pepin-brothers-1957-Navy-1920-1180x839.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1022-Pepin-brothers-1957-Navy-1920-960x683.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1022-Pepin-brothers-1957-Navy-1920-240x171.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1022-Pepin-brothers-1957-Navy-1920-375x267.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1022-Pepin-brothers-1957-Navy-1920-520x370.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jacques Pépin (left) with his brothers Bichon and Roland, 1957. \u003ccite>(Courtesy Jacques Pépin)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Once his military service was over, Pépin headed to New York, landing a job at Le Pavillon, referred to in the film as the \"best restaurant in the U.S.\" at the time. This was probably where the Kennedys came to appreciate his talents, so much so that, after winning the 1960 presidential election, they asked him to serve as White House chef. Another needle scratch. Pépin turned down the job! He chose instead to become Director of Research in the test kitchen for Howard Johnson's, the largest restaurant chain in the U.S. at the time. This move is key to the current celebration of Pépin as a distinctively American master. After serving in the world's great temples of haute cuisine, he decided to learn about mass production, creating recipes for Beef Bourguignon that could be produced in 500 gallon vats and putting the French back in French Fries. A decade later, Pépin left that post to strike out on his own, opening a very popular lunch spot in mid-town Manhattan, La Potagerie, which only served soup.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116748\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1754px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1068_Pepin011_Kitchen_JeanClaude.jpg\" alt=\"Jacques Pepin and his best friend, Jean-Claude Szurdak, in an early magazine photo shoot. \" width=\"1754\" height=\"1276\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116748\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1068_Pepin011_Kitchen_JeanClaude.jpg 1754w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1068_Pepin011_Kitchen_JeanClaude-160x116.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1068_Pepin011_Kitchen_JeanClaude-800x582.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1068_Pepin011_Kitchen_JeanClaude-768x559.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1068_Pepin011_Kitchen_JeanClaude-1020x742.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1068_Pepin011_Kitchen_JeanClaude-1180x858.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1068_Pepin011_Kitchen_JeanClaude-960x698.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1068_Pepin011_Kitchen_JeanClaude-240x175.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1068_Pepin011_Kitchen_JeanClaude-375x273.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1068_Pepin011_Kitchen_JeanClaude-520x378.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1754px) 100vw, 1754px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jacques Pepin and his best friend, Jean-Claude Szurdak, in an early magazine photo shoot. \u003ccite>(Courtesy Jacques Pépin)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116750\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 611px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2170-JP-and-Franey-at-Hojo-commissary-NEW.jpg\" alt=\"Jacques Pépin and Pierre Franey at the Howard Johnsons test kitchen, 1970s.\" width=\"611\" height=\"535\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116750\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2170-JP-and-Franey-at-Hojo-commissary-NEW.jpg 611w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2170-JP-and-Franey-at-Hojo-commissary-NEW-160x140.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2170-JP-and-Franey-at-Hojo-commissary-NEW-240x210.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2170-JP-and-Franey-at-Hojo-commissary-NEW-375x328.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2170-JP-and-Franey-at-Hojo-commissary-NEW-520x455.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 611px) 100vw, 611px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jacques Pépin and Pierre Franey at the Howard Johnsons test kitchen, 1970s. \u003ccite>(Courtesy Pierre Franey Estate)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Eventually, the necessity arose for Pépin to reinvent himself once more. He wrote a cookbook, \u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Technique-Illustrated-Fundamental-Techniques-Cooking/dp/067179020X/ref=sr_1_2?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1491927105&sr=1-2&keywords=la+technique+jacques+pepin\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>La Technique\u003c/em>\u003c/a> that taught Americans much-needed, from what he had observed, basic techniques for food preparation. He followed the success of that first book with another, \u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Methode-Illustrated-Fundamental-Techniques-Hardcover/dp/B011WAFZH4/ref=sr_1_3?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1491927237&sr=1-3&keywords=la+methode+jacques+pepin\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>La Methode\u003c/em>\u003c/a>; the two books were essentially about empowering the home cook. They were revolutionary at the time, demonstrating food basics through step-by-step photographic layouts. Pépin then hit the road, touring extensively to promote the work, which was the only option in an age before cable networks devoted exclusively to food. Exploiting his suave good looks, his natural charm and humor, not to mention that sexy accent, Pépin became the Tom Jones of cooking. Women flocked to his public appearances and swooned. This was the 1970s and the U.S. was pretty hot for all things French. Anthony Bourdain summarizes this idea with the quote that opens the film, \"Before you have sex with another human being, you should be capable of preparing them an omelet to Jacques Pépin's standards the next morning.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116744\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-garden-800x1150.jpg\" alt=\"Jacques Pépin in his garden.\" width=\"800\" height=\"1150\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-116744\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-garden-800x1150.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-garden-160x230.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-garden-768x1104.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-garden-960x1380.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-garden-240x345.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-garden-375x539.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-garden-520x748.jpg 520w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-garden.jpg 969w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jacques Pépin in his garden. \u003ccite>(Courtesy Jacques Pépin)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>So of course TV came calling, most particularly KQED, which produced -- with the very same Peter L. Stein at the helm -- Pépin's first successful cooking series for public TV. While he is extremely accomplished, Pépin makes cooking look easy, without -- paradoxically -- pulling focus from the centrality of work. His amazingly expressive hands communicate volumes -- mastery, wit, joy -- with every small gesture. His emphasis on technique is about developing know-how in your hands, which is communicated through the grace of his own movements. The chef's knife is a baton; the paring knife is a pen. Pépin creates art and music with food, orchestrating the meal as a communion between friends.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116747\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1408px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2054-JP-cooking-demo-holding-mic-NEW.jpg\" alt=\"Jacques Pépin teaching a cooking class in the 1970s.\" width=\"1408\" height=\"1483\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116747\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2054-JP-cooking-demo-holding-mic-NEW.jpg 1408w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2054-JP-cooking-demo-holding-mic-NEW-160x169.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2054-JP-cooking-demo-holding-mic-NEW-800x843.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2054-JP-cooking-demo-holding-mic-NEW-768x809.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2054-JP-cooking-demo-holding-mic-NEW-1020x1074.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2054-JP-cooking-demo-holding-mic-NEW-1180x1243.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2054-JP-cooking-demo-holding-mic-NEW-960x1011.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2054-JP-cooking-demo-holding-mic-NEW-240x253.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2054-JP-cooking-demo-holding-mic-NEW-375x395.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2054-JP-cooking-demo-holding-mic-NEW-520x548.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1408px) 100vw, 1408px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jacques Pépin teaching a cooking class in the 1970s. \u003ccite>(Courtesy Jacques Pépin)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Pépin remained philosophically consistent on TV. With empowerment as his central goal, he utilized each half-hour segment to prepare a dish from start to finish, revealing how cooking is essentially technique and practice. He cemented this idea with another series wherein he taught his daughter Claudine to cook on the small screen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116755\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 900px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-claudine.jpg\" alt=\" Jacques Pépin and his daughter Claudine in his television series (L to R): Today's Gourmet, Jacques Pépin 's Kitchen: Cooking with Claudine, and Chez Pépin.\" width=\"900\" height=\"223\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116755\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-claudine.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-claudine-160x40.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-claudine-800x198.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-claudine-768x190.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-claudine-240x59.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-claudine-375x93.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-claudine-520x129.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 900px) 100vw, 900px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jacques Pépin and his daughter Claudine in his television series (L to R): Today's Gourmet, Jacques Pépin 's Kitchen: Cooking with Claudine, and Chez Pépin. \u003ccite>(screenshots from Jacques Pépin: The Art of Craft)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>But \u003cem>The Art of Craft\u003c/em> is more than just one man's success story. Ultimately, it communicates, with the same breezy charm as its subject, the effect one person can have on a whole culture. This is the crucial idea that seems missing from today's America. We are a stew waiting for that distinctive ingredient that makes everything pop.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pépin, along with a handful of other chefs like him, changed the way Americans perceived food. At one point, Pépin, nearing his 80th birthday, contemplates a wall filled with framed pictures of close friends and people who have been influential in his life. I realized then that his true accomplishment was not becoming a celebrity chef, writing cookbooks or teaching cooking techniques on TV, though they were the tools of his trade. His mission has always been to demonstrate the art of nurturing and the craft of building and fortifying community.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116752\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 953px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/Screen-shot-2017-04-12-at-2.49-NEW.jpg\" alt=\" Jacques Pépin nearing his 80th birthday, contemplates a wall filled with framed pictures of close friends and people who have been influential in his life.\" width=\"953\" height=\"530\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116752\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/Screen-shot-2017-04-12-at-2.49-NEW.jpg 953w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/Screen-shot-2017-04-12-at-2.49-NEW-160x89.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/Screen-shot-2017-04-12-at-2.49-NEW-800x445.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/Screen-shot-2017-04-12-at-2.49-NEW-768x427.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/Screen-shot-2017-04-12-at-2.49-NEW-240x133.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/Screen-shot-2017-04-12-at-2.49-NEW-375x209.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/Screen-shot-2017-04-12-at-2.49-NEW-520x289.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 953px) 100vw, 953px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jacques Pépin nearing his 80th birthday, contemplates a wall filled with framed pictures of close friends and people who have been influential in his life. \u003ccite>(screenshot from Jacques Pépin: The Art of Craft)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>This timely tribute to one immigrant's journey in the U.S. reminds us that change is as likely to arrive on our shores as it is to be home grown, given the right conditions. Everything worth having is worth working for and, as Pépin demonstrates, there are tried and true techniques that, with practice, will help us to master the art of living.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116732\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JP-with-book-DSC_7094-1920.jpg\" alt=\"Jacques Pépin (R), director Peter L. Stein (L), director of photography Vicente Franco, and sound engineer Jose Araujo, during the filming of Pépin’s American Masters documentary, 2016.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1282\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116732\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JP-with-book-DSC_7094-1920.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JP-with-book-DSC_7094-1920-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JP-with-book-DSC_7094-1920-800x534.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JP-with-book-DSC_7094-1920-768x513.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JP-with-book-DSC_7094-1920-1020x681.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JP-with-book-DSC_7094-1920-1180x788.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JP-with-book-DSC_7094-1920-960x641.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JP-with-book-DSC_7094-1920-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JP-with-book-DSC_7094-1920-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JP-with-book-DSC_7094-1920-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jacques Pépin (R), director Peter L. Stein (L), director of photography Vicente Franco, and sound engineer Jose Araujo, during the filming of Pépin’s American Masters documentary, 2016. \u003ccite>(Jennifer Huang )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>https://player.vimeo.com/video/211423771\u003cbr>\nDocumentary maker Peter L. Stein describes some of the special on- and off-screen challenges of bringing Jacques Pépin's story to the screen for PBS's American Masters, and recalls his longtime collaboration with Jacques as producer of many of his early public television series.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Watch a clip from the documentary in which Jacques' wife Gloria shares the story of how she met Jacques.\u003cbr>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/j0LazvHsuUE'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/j0LazvHsuUE'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Oakland Bloom Nurtures Refugee Chefs at Night Market Pop-Ups",
"title": "Oakland Bloom Nurtures Refugee Chefs at Night Market Pop-Ups",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116392\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-116392\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/1-Farid-and-Mina-NEW.jpg\" alt=\"Farid Rafaty cooked Afghan food at the Oakland Bloom Night Market with his cousin Mina.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1666\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/1-Farid-and-Mina-NEW.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/1-Farid-and-Mina-NEW-160x139.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/1-Farid-and-Mina-NEW-800x694.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/1-Farid-and-Mina-NEW-768x666.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/1-Farid-and-Mina-NEW-1020x885.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/1-Farid-and-Mina-NEW-1180x1024.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/1-Farid-and-Mina-NEW-960x833.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/1-Farid-and-Mina-NEW-240x208.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/1-Farid-and-Mina-NEW-375x325.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/1-Farid-and-Mina-NEW-520x451.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Farid Rafaty cooked Afghan food at the Oakland Bloom Night Market with his friend Shahnaz. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Farid Rafaty dreams of opening a restaurant where he will cook dishes from his native Afghanistan. One of these would be the luscious \u003cem>mantu\u003c/em> dumplings he recently made for a pop-up dinner sponsored by \u003ca href=\"http://oaklandbloom.org/\">Oakland Bloom\u003c/a>, an organization that wants to help him in his quest. It’s been a long journey. At age 14, Rafaty was walking home after getting a haircut when he was forcibly drafted by the pro-communist government as a soldier to fight against the \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mujahideen\" target=\"_blank\">Mujahideen\u003c/a> and taken by helicopter to their army base. After spending three weeks trying to operate an anti-aircraft missile launcher, the determined young man escaped from the base and fled his country by walking all the way to Pakistan, where he eventually met up with his parents and eight siblings.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116393\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-116393\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/2-Mantu-dumpling-NEW.jpg\" alt=\"Farid's mantu (beef dumpling) topped with tomato and yogurt sauces.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2204\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/2-Mantu-dumpling-NEW.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/2-Mantu-dumpling-NEW-160x184.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/2-Mantu-dumpling-NEW-800x918.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/2-Mantu-dumpling-NEW-768x882.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/2-Mantu-dumpling-NEW-1020x1171.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/2-Mantu-dumpling-NEW-1180x1355.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/2-Mantu-dumpling-NEW-960x1102.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/2-Mantu-dumpling-NEW-240x276.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/2-Mantu-dumpling-NEW-375x430.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/2-Mantu-dumpling-NEW-520x597.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Farid's mantu (beef dumpling) topped with tomato and yogurt sauces. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>After several years living in France, Rafaty moved to Southern California, and ironically, got his wish to cook authentic Afghan food -- for the U.S. Marine Corps training site in Twentynine Palms. The army had built a completely realistic Afghan town in the middle of the Mojave desert to train Marines before they were deployed to Afghanistan. “It had to be 100% accurate, from the shops to the colors of the clothing to the food,” explains Rafaty. “I was head of kitchen and cooked breakfast, lunch and dinner for 220 Afghan ‘actors’ and 40 Special Forces soldiers.” Sometimes Rafaty was also assigned to act a role, such as head of the Secret Service, in exercises where American soldiers were tasked with finding “the bad guys.” The results were impressive. After a month living in the simulated Afghan village, the soldiers were ready. “I received many commendations, and the soldiers expressed their gratitude for preparing them so well, which was crucial to their survival,” says Rafaty. “Now, I want to give back to this wonderful country.” With Oakland Bloom’s help, Rafaty hopes to start a catering business and work his way up to a café where he can make real connections with his customers. “I want a place,“ he says, “where we all know each other’s families.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116394\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-116394\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/3-Seanathan-Chow-NEW.jpg\" alt=\"Seanathan Chow, founder of Oakland Bloom, at March 12 Night Market Pop-up Dinner.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1389\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/3-Seanathan-Chow-NEW.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/3-Seanathan-Chow-NEW-160x116.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/3-Seanathan-Chow-NEW-800x579.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/3-Seanathan-Chow-NEW-768x556.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/3-Seanathan-Chow-NEW-1020x738.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/3-Seanathan-Chow-NEW-1180x854.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/3-Seanathan-Chow-NEW-960x695.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/3-Seanathan-Chow-NEW-240x174.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/3-Seanathan-Chow-NEW-375x271.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/3-Seanathan-Chow-NEW-520x376.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Seanathan Chow, founder of Oakland Bloom, at March 12 Night Market Pop-up Dinner. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Not all the refugees that Oakland Bloom mentors have as much food service experience as Farid Rafaty. Indeed, some have none at all. But the most important quality that Oakland Bloom founder Seanathan Chow looks for when choosing people for the training program is a love of cooking. After several years working to foster social entrepreneurialism as a start-up consultant and volunteering in a variety of non-profits, Chow switched gears to attend culinary school and then cook at Hawker Fare and Nopalito.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>His “aha moment” came when he realized he could pair food and social impact to create economic opportunities for refugees and immigrants looking to start their own businesses. He founded Oakland Bloom in 2015. Now, he and his team run an intense two-week training program where refugees receive instruction in running a food business, operating a commercial kitchen, marketing, and testing recipes, all leading up to the Night Market, where they cook and serve their dishes to more than 100 guests.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These pop-up dinners, held monthly in the basement dining room of \u003ca href=\"https://www.choicehotels.com/california/oakland/clarion-hotels/cab03?source=gyxt\">Oakland’s Clarion Hotel\u003c/a>, give the emerging chefs an opportunity to handle a steady stream of customers and engage in conversation with them. Chow is still refining the structure and learning from each event. At the second dinner on March 12, he was dismayed to find that by the time the last two ticketed customers appeared, a couple of the chefs had run out of food. “It was a learning experience for us all,” says Chow, “I want to improve these events each time and use them as a testing ground for a permanent space.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The \u003ca href=\"http://oaklandbloom.org/tickets/\">next pop-up dinner on April 9\u003c/a> will feature timed seatings to more evenly distribute diners. Besides allowing the chefs to practice feeding people at these events, Chow’s vision also includes encouraging conversations about culture and inspiring guests to volunteer their skills (say in marketing or graphic design) to help these budding entrepreneurs succeed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116455\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/4-Sara-Tebege-revised.jpg\" alt=\"Sara Tebege's spicy chicken and red lentils accompanied by her unique Eritrean flatbread.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"904\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116455\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/4-Sara-Tebege-revised.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/4-Sara-Tebege-revised-160x75.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/4-Sara-Tebege-revised-800x377.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/4-Sara-Tebege-revised-768x362.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/4-Sara-Tebege-revised-1020x480.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/4-Sara-Tebege-revised-1180x556.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/4-Sara-Tebege-revised-960x452.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/4-Sara-Tebege-revised-240x113.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/4-Sara-Tebege-revised-375x177.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/4-Sara-Tebege-revised-520x245.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sara Tebege's spicy chicken and red lentils accompanied by her unique Eritrean flatbread. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The youngest chef in the March 12 Night Market line-up was 23-year old Sara Tebege, who served home-style Eritrean foods atop discs of a dark flatbread. But this flatbread was not \u003cem>injera\u003c/em> which is the large spongy crepe-like circles made primarily of teff flour that is a staple in Ethiopian and Eritrean meals.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tebege featured a unique twist on another traditional flatbread that she calls \u003cem>anababiru\u003c/em>, which is usually served in layers. Her dish featured smaller rounds upon which she spread \u003cem>awaze\u003c/em> (spiced butter) and piled her \u003cem>doro tibs\u003c/em> (spicy chicken) and \u003cem>misr wot\u003c/em> (red lentil stew). She explained the significance of this “bread” to some of her customers, explaining that since it has a shorter rising time than injera, it was made every morning in her household and marked the start of the day.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tebege is Eritrean. Since coming to the U.S. she has been working hard to improve herself and start a new life. When she connected with the \u003ca href=\"https://www.rescue.org/\">International Rescue Committee \u003c/a> (IRC) in 2014, she met Seanathan Chow who was then a volunteer. In 2015, Sara participated in Oakland Bloom’s food business training program (then in partnership with IRC’s New Roots Program), where participants were introduced to basic business concepts and various types of food businesses through guest lectures, field trips, and workshops.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Through the IRC, Tebege also met Doug Hewitt and recently completed the training program for \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2017/02/14/refugees-life-stories-deepen-the-brew-at-1951-coffee-company/\">1951 Coffee Company\u003c/a>. Although she hopes to start working at the café, quickly whipping up lattes for Berkeleyites on the go, her ultimate wish is to have her own café where she can offer the slower-paced, \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/08/07/traditional-ethiopian-coffee-ceremony-brewed-up-by-chef-marcus-samuelsson-and-cafe-colucci/\">traditional Ethiopian/Eritrean coffee ritual\u003c/a> that involves roasting the beans, grinding them, mixing the ground beans with water, then boiling and serving three rounds of coffee with snacks like popped sorghum. The daily ritual emphasizes slowing down and encourages participants to really talk to each other. Through her time with Oakland Bloom, Tebege came up with a name for her café: Mahaza, which means “friend” in Tigrinya, her native language.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116396\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-116396\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/5-Soda-NEW.jpg\" alt=\"Seanathan Chow's refreshing take on a Burmese tamarind ginger soda.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1598\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/5-Soda-NEW.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/5-Soda-NEW-160x133.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/5-Soda-NEW-800x666.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/5-Soda-NEW-768x639.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/5-Soda-NEW-1020x849.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/5-Soda-NEW-1180x982.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/5-Soda-NEW-960x799.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/5-Soda-NEW-240x200.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/5-Soda-NEW-375x312.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/5-Soda-NEW-520x433.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Seanathan Chow's refreshing take on a Burmese tamarind ginger soda. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>At his recent pop-up dinner, Seanathan Chow contributed his own Burmese-inspired tamarind ginger soda. He explains that his motivation for establishing Oakland Bloom was personal: “My parents were immigrants from Burma, where my mom grew up in poverty. My uncle hid on a boat to get here, with only $10 in his pocket. I grew up hearing stories about what it took for my family to come here, and even more so how difficult it was upon arriving. Now my mom and uncle are both successful entrepreneurs,\" says Chow. \"They sacrificed a lot, but they’re proof that anything is possible with a little help from the community and loved ones. It’s heartbreaking when I meet immigrants who feel like owning a business is simply out of their reach. I want my participants to know that Oakland Bloom will support them for the long haul. We’re in this together.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chow’s ultimate goal is to open Oakland’s first \u003ca href=\"http://www.thebestsingapore.com/eat-and-drink/the-best-5-hawker-centres-in-singapore/\">Hawker Center\u003c/a> inspired by the food courts for which Singapore is famous. He needs a warehouse or other covered space that would be big enough for each entrepreneur to have his/her own stall. After a pilot program, he hopes to make this a permanent fixture in Oakland. Another part of Chow’s plan is to enlist the help of guest chefs. The Hawker center would have stalls for refugees and immigrants plus Oakland's up-and-coming chefs, who could provide one-on-one mentorships. “What we really need, “ says Chow, “is for everyone to feel invested in the success of others.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116397\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-116397\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/6-Orn-and-Sambath-NEW.jpg\" alt=\"Orn Sok and Sambath Ky are refugees from Cambodia, who have been been working at a small cafe in Oakland making American food for years. They want to cook Cambodian dishes, like this chicken stuffed with lemon grass, pork and tamarind and papaya glass noodle salad. They will also be cooking at the April 9th event.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1470\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/6-Orn-and-Sambath-NEW.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/6-Orn-and-Sambath-NEW-160x123.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/6-Orn-and-Sambath-NEW-800x613.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/6-Orn-and-Sambath-NEW-768x588.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/6-Orn-and-Sambath-NEW-1020x781.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/6-Orn-and-Sambath-NEW-1180x903.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/6-Orn-and-Sambath-NEW-960x735.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/6-Orn-and-Sambath-NEW-240x184.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/6-Orn-and-Sambath-NEW-375x287.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/6-Orn-and-Sambath-NEW-520x398.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Orn Sok and Sambath Ky are refugees from Cambodia, who have been been working at a small cafe in Oakland making American food for years. They want to cook Cambodian dishes, like this chicken stuffed with lemon grass, pork and tamarind and papaya glass noodle salad. They will also be cooking at the April 9th event. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://oaklandbloom.org/\">\u003cstrong>Oakland Bloom\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://oaklandbloom.org/tickets/\">Purchase tickets \u003c/a>for the next Pop-Up Night Market on April 9 at the Clarion Hotel\u003cbr>\n371 13\u003csup>th\u003c/sup> Street \u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/Clarion+Hotel+Downtown+Oakland+City+Center/@37.8027602,-122.272227,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f80b413425549:0xb07d41caf46aa28!8m2!3d37.802756!4d-122.270033\">[Map]\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nOakland, CA 94612\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/oakbloomkitchen/\">Oakland Bloom\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Check \u003ca href=\"http://oaklandbloom.org/\">Oakland Bloom’s website\u003c/a> for upcoming crowd-funding projects.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Refugees who aspire to be chefs are supported by Oakland Bloom's training and monthly Night Market pop-up dinners.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116392\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-116392\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/1-Farid-and-Mina-NEW.jpg\" alt=\"Farid Rafaty cooked Afghan food at the Oakland Bloom Night Market with his cousin Mina.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1666\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/1-Farid-and-Mina-NEW.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/1-Farid-and-Mina-NEW-160x139.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/1-Farid-and-Mina-NEW-800x694.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/1-Farid-and-Mina-NEW-768x666.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/1-Farid-and-Mina-NEW-1020x885.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/1-Farid-and-Mina-NEW-1180x1024.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/1-Farid-and-Mina-NEW-960x833.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/1-Farid-and-Mina-NEW-240x208.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/1-Farid-and-Mina-NEW-375x325.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/1-Farid-and-Mina-NEW-520x451.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Farid Rafaty cooked Afghan food at the Oakland Bloom Night Market with his friend Shahnaz. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Farid Rafaty dreams of opening a restaurant where he will cook dishes from his native Afghanistan. One of these would be the luscious \u003cem>mantu\u003c/em> dumplings he recently made for a pop-up dinner sponsored by \u003ca href=\"http://oaklandbloom.org/\">Oakland Bloom\u003c/a>, an organization that wants to help him in his quest. It’s been a long journey. At age 14, Rafaty was walking home after getting a haircut when he was forcibly drafted by the pro-communist government as a soldier to fight against the \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mujahideen\" target=\"_blank\">Mujahideen\u003c/a> and taken by helicopter to their army base. After spending three weeks trying to operate an anti-aircraft missile launcher, the determined young man escaped from the base and fled his country by walking all the way to Pakistan, where he eventually met up with his parents and eight siblings.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116393\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-116393\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/2-Mantu-dumpling-NEW.jpg\" alt=\"Farid's mantu (beef dumpling) topped with tomato and yogurt sauces.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2204\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/2-Mantu-dumpling-NEW.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/2-Mantu-dumpling-NEW-160x184.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/2-Mantu-dumpling-NEW-800x918.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/2-Mantu-dumpling-NEW-768x882.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/2-Mantu-dumpling-NEW-1020x1171.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/2-Mantu-dumpling-NEW-1180x1355.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/2-Mantu-dumpling-NEW-960x1102.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/2-Mantu-dumpling-NEW-240x276.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/2-Mantu-dumpling-NEW-375x430.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/2-Mantu-dumpling-NEW-520x597.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Farid's mantu (beef dumpling) topped with tomato and yogurt sauces. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>After several years living in France, Rafaty moved to Southern California, and ironically, got his wish to cook authentic Afghan food -- for the U.S. Marine Corps training site in Twentynine Palms. The army had built a completely realistic Afghan town in the middle of the Mojave desert to train Marines before they were deployed to Afghanistan. “It had to be 100% accurate, from the shops to the colors of the clothing to the food,” explains Rafaty. “I was head of kitchen and cooked breakfast, lunch and dinner for 220 Afghan ‘actors’ and 40 Special Forces soldiers.” Sometimes Rafaty was also assigned to act a role, such as head of the Secret Service, in exercises where American soldiers were tasked with finding “the bad guys.” The results were impressive. After a month living in the simulated Afghan village, the soldiers were ready. “I received many commendations, and the soldiers expressed their gratitude for preparing them so well, which was crucial to their survival,” says Rafaty. “Now, I want to give back to this wonderful country.” With Oakland Bloom’s help, Rafaty hopes to start a catering business and work his way up to a café where he can make real connections with his customers. “I want a place,“ he says, “where we all know each other’s families.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116394\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-116394\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/3-Seanathan-Chow-NEW.jpg\" alt=\"Seanathan Chow, founder of Oakland Bloom, at March 12 Night Market Pop-up Dinner.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1389\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/3-Seanathan-Chow-NEW.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/3-Seanathan-Chow-NEW-160x116.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/3-Seanathan-Chow-NEW-800x579.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/3-Seanathan-Chow-NEW-768x556.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/3-Seanathan-Chow-NEW-1020x738.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/3-Seanathan-Chow-NEW-1180x854.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/3-Seanathan-Chow-NEW-960x695.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/3-Seanathan-Chow-NEW-240x174.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/3-Seanathan-Chow-NEW-375x271.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/3-Seanathan-Chow-NEW-520x376.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Seanathan Chow, founder of Oakland Bloom, at March 12 Night Market Pop-up Dinner. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Not all the refugees that Oakland Bloom mentors have as much food service experience as Farid Rafaty. Indeed, some have none at all. But the most important quality that Oakland Bloom founder Seanathan Chow looks for when choosing people for the training program is a love of cooking. After several years working to foster social entrepreneurialism as a start-up consultant and volunteering in a variety of non-profits, Chow switched gears to attend culinary school and then cook at Hawker Fare and Nopalito.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>His “aha moment” came when he realized he could pair food and social impact to create economic opportunities for refugees and immigrants looking to start their own businesses. He founded Oakland Bloom in 2015. Now, he and his team run an intense two-week training program where refugees receive instruction in running a food business, operating a commercial kitchen, marketing, and testing recipes, all leading up to the Night Market, where they cook and serve their dishes to more than 100 guests.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These pop-up dinners, held monthly in the basement dining room of \u003ca href=\"https://www.choicehotels.com/california/oakland/clarion-hotels/cab03?source=gyxt\">Oakland’s Clarion Hotel\u003c/a>, give the emerging chefs an opportunity to handle a steady stream of customers and engage in conversation with them. Chow is still refining the structure and learning from each event. At the second dinner on March 12, he was dismayed to find that by the time the last two ticketed customers appeared, a couple of the chefs had run out of food. “It was a learning experience for us all,” says Chow, “I want to improve these events each time and use them as a testing ground for a permanent space.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The \u003ca href=\"http://oaklandbloom.org/tickets/\">next pop-up dinner on April 9\u003c/a> will feature timed seatings to more evenly distribute diners. Besides allowing the chefs to practice feeding people at these events, Chow’s vision also includes encouraging conversations about culture and inspiring guests to volunteer their skills (say in marketing or graphic design) to help these budding entrepreneurs succeed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116455\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/4-Sara-Tebege-revised.jpg\" alt=\"Sara Tebege's spicy chicken and red lentils accompanied by her unique Eritrean flatbread.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"904\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116455\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/4-Sara-Tebege-revised.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/4-Sara-Tebege-revised-160x75.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/4-Sara-Tebege-revised-800x377.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/4-Sara-Tebege-revised-768x362.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/4-Sara-Tebege-revised-1020x480.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/4-Sara-Tebege-revised-1180x556.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/4-Sara-Tebege-revised-960x452.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/4-Sara-Tebege-revised-240x113.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/4-Sara-Tebege-revised-375x177.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/4-Sara-Tebege-revised-520x245.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sara Tebege's spicy chicken and red lentils accompanied by her unique Eritrean flatbread. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The youngest chef in the March 12 Night Market line-up was 23-year old Sara Tebege, who served home-style Eritrean foods atop discs of a dark flatbread. But this flatbread was not \u003cem>injera\u003c/em> which is the large spongy crepe-like circles made primarily of teff flour that is a staple in Ethiopian and Eritrean meals.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tebege featured a unique twist on another traditional flatbread that she calls \u003cem>anababiru\u003c/em>, which is usually served in layers. Her dish featured smaller rounds upon which she spread \u003cem>awaze\u003c/em> (spiced butter) and piled her \u003cem>doro tibs\u003c/em> (spicy chicken) and \u003cem>misr wot\u003c/em> (red lentil stew). She explained the significance of this “bread” to some of her customers, explaining that since it has a shorter rising time than injera, it was made every morning in her household and marked the start of the day.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tebege is Eritrean. Since coming to the U.S. she has been working hard to improve herself and start a new life. When she connected with the \u003ca href=\"https://www.rescue.org/\">International Rescue Committee \u003c/a> (IRC) in 2014, she met Seanathan Chow who was then a volunteer. In 2015, Sara participated in Oakland Bloom’s food business training program (then in partnership with IRC’s New Roots Program), where participants were introduced to basic business concepts and various types of food businesses through guest lectures, field trips, and workshops.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Through the IRC, Tebege also met Doug Hewitt and recently completed the training program for \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2017/02/14/refugees-life-stories-deepen-the-brew-at-1951-coffee-company/\">1951 Coffee Company\u003c/a>. Although she hopes to start working at the café, quickly whipping up lattes for Berkeleyites on the go, her ultimate wish is to have her own café where she can offer the slower-paced, \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/08/07/traditional-ethiopian-coffee-ceremony-brewed-up-by-chef-marcus-samuelsson-and-cafe-colucci/\">traditional Ethiopian/Eritrean coffee ritual\u003c/a> that involves roasting the beans, grinding them, mixing the ground beans with water, then boiling and serving three rounds of coffee with snacks like popped sorghum. The daily ritual emphasizes slowing down and encourages participants to really talk to each other. Through her time with Oakland Bloom, Tebege came up with a name for her café: Mahaza, which means “friend” in Tigrinya, her native language.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116396\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-116396\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/5-Soda-NEW.jpg\" alt=\"Seanathan Chow's refreshing take on a Burmese tamarind ginger soda.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1598\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/5-Soda-NEW.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/5-Soda-NEW-160x133.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/5-Soda-NEW-800x666.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/5-Soda-NEW-768x639.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/5-Soda-NEW-1020x849.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/5-Soda-NEW-1180x982.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/5-Soda-NEW-960x799.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/5-Soda-NEW-240x200.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/5-Soda-NEW-375x312.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/5-Soda-NEW-520x433.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Seanathan Chow's refreshing take on a Burmese tamarind ginger soda. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>At his recent pop-up dinner, Seanathan Chow contributed his own Burmese-inspired tamarind ginger soda. He explains that his motivation for establishing Oakland Bloom was personal: “My parents were immigrants from Burma, where my mom grew up in poverty. My uncle hid on a boat to get here, with only $10 in his pocket. I grew up hearing stories about what it took for my family to come here, and even more so how difficult it was upon arriving. Now my mom and uncle are both successful entrepreneurs,\" says Chow. \"They sacrificed a lot, but they’re proof that anything is possible with a little help from the community and loved ones. It’s heartbreaking when I meet immigrants who feel like owning a business is simply out of their reach. I want my participants to know that Oakland Bloom will support them for the long haul. We’re in this together.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chow’s ultimate goal is to open Oakland’s first \u003ca href=\"http://www.thebestsingapore.com/eat-and-drink/the-best-5-hawker-centres-in-singapore/\">Hawker Center\u003c/a> inspired by the food courts for which Singapore is famous. He needs a warehouse or other covered space that would be big enough for each entrepreneur to have his/her own stall. After a pilot program, he hopes to make this a permanent fixture in Oakland. Another part of Chow’s plan is to enlist the help of guest chefs. The Hawker center would have stalls for refugees and immigrants plus Oakland's up-and-coming chefs, who could provide one-on-one mentorships. “What we really need, “ says Chow, “is for everyone to feel invested in the success of others.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116397\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-116397\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/6-Orn-and-Sambath-NEW.jpg\" alt=\"Orn Sok and Sambath Ky are refugees from Cambodia, who have been been working at a small cafe in Oakland making American food for years. They want to cook Cambodian dishes, like this chicken stuffed with lemon grass, pork and tamarind and papaya glass noodle salad. They will also be cooking at the April 9th event.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1470\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/6-Orn-and-Sambath-NEW.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/6-Orn-and-Sambath-NEW-160x123.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/6-Orn-and-Sambath-NEW-800x613.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/6-Orn-and-Sambath-NEW-768x588.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/6-Orn-and-Sambath-NEW-1020x781.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/6-Orn-and-Sambath-NEW-1180x903.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/6-Orn-and-Sambath-NEW-960x735.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/6-Orn-and-Sambath-NEW-240x184.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/6-Orn-and-Sambath-NEW-375x287.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/6-Orn-and-Sambath-NEW-520x398.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Orn Sok and Sambath Ky are refugees from Cambodia, who have been been working at a small cafe in Oakland making American food for years. They want to cook Cambodian dishes, like this chicken stuffed with lemon grass, pork and tamarind and papaya glass noodle salad. They will also be cooking at the April 9th event. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://oaklandbloom.org/\">\u003cstrong>Oakland Bloom\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://oaklandbloom.org/tickets/\">Purchase tickets \u003c/a>for the next Pop-Up Night Market on April 9 at the Clarion Hotel\u003cbr>\n371 13\u003csup>th\u003c/sup> Street \u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/Clarion+Hotel+Downtown+Oakland+City+Center/@37.8027602,-122.272227,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f80b413425549:0xb07d41caf46aa28!8m2!3d37.802756!4d-122.270033\">[Map]\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nOakland, CA 94612\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/oakbloomkitchen/\">Oakland Bloom\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Check \u003ca href=\"http://oaklandbloom.org/\">Oakland Bloom’s website\u003c/a> for upcoming crowd-funding projects.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "For The First Time, U.S. Wins Elite Bocuse D'Or Culinary Competition",
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"content": "\u003cp>For the first time, a U.S. team walked away with top honors at the prestigious Bocuse d'Or chef competition, seen as the Olympics of cooking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The U.S. team was led by chef Mathew Peters and \u003cem>commis\u003c/em>, or assistant, Harrison Turone. Norway took silver, and Iceland took bronze.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The competition pits 24 chefs against each other and is billed as the \"most demanding and prestigious reward in world gastronomy,\" started by legendary French chef Paul Bocuse. The U.S. has long been an underdog: It has only stood on the podium once before, when it took silver in 2015.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chefs prepare for months for the strenuous competition, which held its grand finale in Lyon, France, on Tuesday and Wednesday. Before they even get there, they must first prove their mettle over 18 months of qualifying rounds.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The finale was comprised of two \"highly symbolic tests,\" which the chefs must complete in 5 hours and 35 minutes. The first test, \u003ca href=\"http://www.bocusedor.com/uploads/sfSympalBossMediaPlugin/document/10d61817a4d2466a5627a542f1479aef6252cc63.pdf\">described as a nod to the past\u003c/a>, called for contestants to prepare a \"modern interpretation\" of the classic Lyonnaise dish \"chicken and crayfish.\" This dish was \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/BocusedorOfficial/photos/pb.373868443208.-2207520000.1473399461./10154449453698209/?type=3&theater\">the theme of the first-ever contest\u003c/a>, held in 1987.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is what the U.S. team prepared, \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2017/01/25/dining/bocuse-dor-usa-win-chef-competition.html\">according to The New York Times\u003c/a>:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003cp>\"The American version involved the chicken with morel mushroom sausage, braised wings, a wine glaze and sauce Américaine, a kind of lobster sauce. Alongside were a chicken liver quenelle with foie gras, corn custard, black-eyed peas and toasted pistachios, as well as lobster tail with Meyer lemon mousse. The garnishes included preparations using carrots, Vidalia onions, black truffles, carrots, peas and potatoes.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>The chefs were also tasked with creating an entirely vegan dish — because the Bocuse d'Or is \"a resolutely modern contest.\" \u003ca href=\"http://www.bocusedor.com/uploads/sfSympalBossMediaPlugin/document/ae693815199fa960d293cf05b33f4fd3bfc6e8b5.pdf\">A press release from the competition explains\u003c/a> that \"it is now time to treat vegetal products as main ingredients in their own right and treat them just like fish or meat.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote class=\"twitter-tweet\" data-lang=\"en\">\n\u003cp lang=\"en\" dir=\"ltr\">Here is the first theme on a tray from team USA ! \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/hashtag/bocusedor?src=hash\">#bocusedor\u003c/a> \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/hashtag/bocusedor30?src=hash\">#bocusedor30\u003c/a> \u003ca href=\"https://t.co/aYNr1Zjepv\">pic.twitter.com/aYNr1Zjepv\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>— Bocuse d'Or Official (@Bocusedor) \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/Bocusedor/status/824246258126688258\">January 25, 2017\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cscript async src=\"//platform.twitter.com/widgets.js\" charset=\"utf-8\">\u003c/script>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For this component, the U.S. team made \"California asparagus with cremini mushrooms, potatoes, a custard made of green almonds, Meyer lemon confit, a Bordelaise sauce and a crumble using an almond and vegetable yeast preparation that mimicked Parmesan cheese,\" the \u003cem>Times\u003c/em> reports.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The inspiration for the dishes came from where I've come from: from New York to California,\" Peters \u003ca href=\"https://www.finedininglovers.com/stories/mathew-peters-bocuse-d-or-2017-winner/\">told Fine Dining Lovers\u003c/a> after the team's win. \"I wanted to bring something that was all American. And that's what we did.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Peters, a veteran of renowned restaurants Per Se and The French Laundry, has been rigorously preparing for the competition. \u003ca href=\"http://www.thedailybeast.com/articles/2016/09/13/the-real-top-chef-competition.html\">He told The Daily Beast\u003c/a> that for some 12 hours a day, five days a week, he \"has cooked an unchanging roster of dishes over and over again.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The win also holds deep significance for esteemed chef Thomas Keller, the team's president. \"There are no words to describe how proud we are,\" Keller told Fine Dining Lovers. \"When we started this almost nine years ago, we promised Monsieur Paul [Bocuse] that we would get gold. I'm really, really proud today that we're able to honor him.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ciframe src=\"https://www.facebook.com/plugins/post.php?href=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.facebook.com%2Fchefthomaskeller%2Fposts%2F1434336016608983&width=500\" width=\"500\" height=\"493\" style=\"border:none;overflow:hidden\" scrolling=\"no\" frameborder=\"0\" allowtransparency=\"true\">\u003c/iframe>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>For the first time, a U.S. team walked away with top honors at the prestigious Bocuse d'Or chef competition, seen as the Olympics of cooking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The U.S. team was led by chef Mathew Peters and \u003cem>commis\u003c/em>, or assistant, Harrison Turone. Norway took silver, and Iceland took bronze.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The competition pits 24 chefs against each other and is billed as the \"most demanding and prestigious reward in world gastronomy,\" started by legendary French chef Paul Bocuse. The U.S. has long been an underdog: It has only stood on the podium once before, when it took silver in 2015.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chefs prepare for months for the strenuous competition, which held its grand finale in Lyon, France, on Tuesday and Wednesday. Before they even get there, they must first prove their mettle over 18 months of qualifying rounds.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The finale was comprised of two \"highly symbolic tests,\" which the chefs must complete in 5 hours and 35 minutes. The first test, \u003ca href=\"http://www.bocusedor.com/uploads/sfSympalBossMediaPlugin/document/10d61817a4d2466a5627a542f1479aef6252cc63.pdf\">described as a nod to the past\u003c/a>, called for contestants to prepare a \"modern interpretation\" of the classic Lyonnaise dish \"chicken and crayfish.\" This dish was \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/BocusedorOfficial/photos/pb.373868443208.-2207520000.1473399461./10154449453698209/?type=3&theater\">the theme of the first-ever contest\u003c/a>, held in 1987.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is what the U.S. team prepared, \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2017/01/25/dining/bocuse-dor-usa-win-chef-competition.html\">according to The New York Times\u003c/a>:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003cp>\"The American version involved the chicken with morel mushroom sausage, braised wings, a wine glaze and sauce Américaine, a kind of lobster sauce. Alongside were a chicken liver quenelle with foie gras, corn custard, black-eyed peas and toasted pistachios, as well as lobster tail with Meyer lemon mousse. The garnishes included preparations using carrots, Vidalia onions, black truffles, carrots, peas and potatoes.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>The chefs were also tasked with creating an entirely vegan dish — because the Bocuse d'Or is \"a resolutely modern contest.\" \u003ca href=\"http://www.bocusedor.com/uploads/sfSympalBossMediaPlugin/document/ae693815199fa960d293cf05b33f4fd3bfc6e8b5.pdf\">A press release from the competition explains\u003c/a> that \"it is now time to treat vegetal products as main ingredients in their own right and treat them just like fish or meat.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote class=\"twitter-tweet\" data-lang=\"en\">\n\u003cp lang=\"en\" dir=\"ltr\">Here is the first theme on a tray from team USA ! \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/hashtag/bocusedor?src=hash\">#bocusedor\u003c/a> \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/hashtag/bocusedor30?src=hash\">#bocusedor30\u003c/a> \u003ca href=\"https://t.co/aYNr1Zjepv\">pic.twitter.com/aYNr1Zjepv\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>— Bocuse d'Or Official (@Bocusedor) \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/Bocusedor/status/824246258126688258\">January 25, 2017\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cscript async src=\"//platform.twitter.com/widgets.js\" charset=\"utf-8\">\u003c/script>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For this component, the U.S. team made \"California asparagus with cremini mushrooms, potatoes, a custard made of green almonds, Meyer lemon confit, a Bordelaise sauce and a crumble using an almond and vegetable yeast preparation that mimicked Parmesan cheese,\" the \u003cem>Times\u003c/em> reports.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The inspiration for the dishes came from where I've come from: from New York to California,\" Peters \u003ca href=\"https://www.finedininglovers.com/stories/mathew-peters-bocuse-d-or-2017-winner/\">told Fine Dining Lovers\u003c/a> after the team's win. \"I wanted to bring something that was all American. And that's what we did.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Peters, a veteran of renowned restaurants Per Se and The French Laundry, has been rigorously preparing for the competition. \u003ca href=\"http://www.thedailybeast.com/articles/2016/09/13/the-real-top-chef-competition.html\">He told The Daily Beast\u003c/a> that for some 12 hours a day, five days a week, he \"has cooked an unchanging roster of dishes over and over again.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The win also holds deep significance for esteemed chef Thomas Keller, the team's president. \"There are no words to describe how proud we are,\" Keller told Fine Dining Lovers. \"When we started this almost nine years ago, we promised Monsieur Paul [Bocuse] that we would get gold. I'm really, really proud today that we're able to honor him.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ciframe src=\"https://www.facebook.com/plugins/post.php?href=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.facebook.com%2Fchefthomaskeller%2Fposts%2F1434336016608983&width=500\" width=\"500\" height=\"493\" style=\"border:none;overflow:hidden\" scrolling=\"no\" frameborder=\"0\" allowtransparency=\"true\">\u003c/iframe>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "At 93, Diana Kennedy Still Reigns As Mexico's Feistiest Food Expert",
"title": "At 93, Diana Kennedy Still Reigns As Mexico's Feistiest Food Expert",
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"content": "\u003cp>Diana Kennedy, often called the \"Julia Child of Mexico,\" is a woman of strong preferences.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She loves good butter and cream, Seville orange marmalade, black truffle shavings and escamoles (a caviar that comes from ant eggs). She hates the use of cassia (false cinnamon) in place of the real thing, canola oil, low- or non-fat dairy products, and nonstick pans.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And don't get her started on kosher salt, which despite being the \"beloved salt of virtually all American chefs,\" as she writes in \u003cem>Nothing Fancy\u003c/em>, tastes antiseptic and has a \"pedestrian\" flavor\u003cem>. \u003c/em>Originally published in 1984, Kennedy's book was re-released earlier this year with an updated introduction and new recipes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Nothing Fancy\u003c/em> is the closest Kennedy has ever come to a memoir, having spent her life cataloging Mexican cooking and plant life. Kennedy, 93, was born in England and has lived in Mexico since the 1950s. During her career she has written nine cookbooks, received the Order of the Aztec Eagle from the Mexican government—the highest award given to foreigners for service to Mexico—as well as the Order of the British Empire, an award for strengthening cultural ties between Mexico and the United Kingdom.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While it wasn't Kennedy's idea to re-release the cookbook, she says: \"I'm in the last decade of my life and I think people are curious.\" That curiosity is an understatement.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I first met her at a packed brunch in her honor at Mi Mero Mole, a Mexican restaurant in Portland, Oregon in late November. The chef and owner, Nick Solares, is one of many who have studied with Kennedy at her home, Quinta Diana, in Michoacán, Mexico. Some guests had met her at past book signings, while others were thrilled to have the chance to talk with her—even just for a few minutes—while she dutifully moved around the room and signed books. Over the past year, she's traveled throughout America to events like this one.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Despite the fact that she's English, Kennedy is credited with bringing Mexican food—the real stuff, not Tex-Mex—to the United States. Her first book, \u003cem>Cuisines of Mexico, \u003c/em>was the result of years of travel and study within the country. She credits information and recipes in her book to a wide array of people from Mexican home cooks to botanists and archaeologists.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_113883\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/books/titles/504451199/nothing-fancy-recipes-and-recollections-of-soul-satisfying-food\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/12/9781477308288_custom-497af5259facb931a02271765793a815a1532069-s700-c85.jpg\" alt=\"Nothing Fancy Recipes and Recollections of Soul-Satisfying Food by Diana Kennedy\" width=\"400\" height=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-113883\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/12/9781477308288_custom-497af5259facb931a02271765793a815a1532069-s700-c85.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/12/9781477308288_custom-497af5259facb931a02271765793a815a1532069-s700-c85-160x200.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/12/9781477308288_custom-497af5259facb931a02271765793a815a1532069-s700-c85-240x300.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/12/9781477308288_custom-497af5259facb931a02271765793a815a1532069-s700-c85-375x469.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nothing Fancy\u003cbr>Recipes and Recollections of Soul-Satisfying Food\u003cbr>by Diana Kennedy\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Though it has been more than 50 years since \u003cem>Cuisines\u003c/em> \u003cem>of Mexico's \u003c/em>release, she is still shocked by how little Americans know about our neighboring cuisine. \"How is it that you can go into an upper-crust supermarket and find things from maybe 20 countries and yet you can't find the best of Mexico?\" she wonders. She says that despite the 1,989-mile border (\"\u003cem>unfenced,\u003c/em> okay?\" she adds) that the U.S. shares with Mexico, so few foods and preparations make it across.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>During our interview she gives a brief lecture on the definition of \"salsa\"—seemingly a simple enough Mexican food. \"Let's not misuse the word!\" she admonishes. \"Everyone wants to put everything in the world in salsa. It drives me nuts.\" First of all, it's a condiment, not a topping, she explains. Second, it's made of chilis, onions, cilantro and tomato. That's it. \"People put awful things in salsa,\" she says. None of this mango salsa nonsense for her.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Kennedy is a culinary purist. She hates fusion food and grimaces when she recalls a meal at a fancy Japanese and French restaurant she recently dined at in New York. \"If I want French food, I want charcuterie and all those lovely dishes laden with butter and cream,\" she says. \"I want to taste the real flavors and textures of that cuisine.\" This is the trait that has led to both her success and her occasionally divisive reputation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>During brunch at Mi Mero Mole, Solares served a mole he learned to make from Diana Kennedy, but it was gluten-free, peanut-free and vegan to account for staff allergies and, one supposes, the dietary preferences of his customers. While Kennedy groans slightly during the announcement, she later says she has no problem with the changes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is a bit of a surprise. \"He's got to please his public and never was there a more finicky public in the whole wide world than the Americans,\" she says. While Kennedy can drop into town with her cookbooks and preferences and rules for making Mexican food properly, she doesn't have to live here, she explains.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_113879\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1850px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/12/diana-1-a00dadce2f54cd9f1c3e6086661dbd9986f7305f.jpg\" alt=\"Kennedy gives a cooking demonstration at Bloomingdale's in New York City in 1972.\" width=\"1850\" height=\"1387\" class=\"size-full wp-image-113879\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/12/diana-1-a00dadce2f54cd9f1c3e6086661dbd9986f7305f.jpg 1850w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/12/diana-1-a00dadce2f54cd9f1c3e6086661dbd9986f7305f-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/12/diana-1-a00dadce2f54cd9f1c3e6086661dbd9986f7305f-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/12/diana-1-a00dadce2f54cd9f1c3e6086661dbd9986f7305f-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/12/diana-1-a00dadce2f54cd9f1c3e6086661dbd9986f7305f-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/12/diana-1-a00dadce2f54cd9f1c3e6086661dbd9986f7305f-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/12/diana-1-a00dadce2f54cd9f1c3e6086661dbd9986f7305f-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/12/diana-1-a00dadce2f54cd9f1c3e6086661dbd9986f7305f-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/12/diana-1-a00dadce2f54cd9f1c3e6086661dbd9986f7305f-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/12/diana-1-a00dadce2f54cd9f1c3e6086661dbd9986f7305f-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1850px) 100vw, 1850px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Kennedy gives a cooking demonstration at Bloomingdale's in New York City in 1972. \u003ccite>(University of Texas Press)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>This type of understanding does not shine in many of the interviews she's given over the decades. In 2011, one \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2011/01/10/AR2011011007152.html\">Washington Post\u003c/a> \u003c/em>reporter described Kennedy as being full of complaints—about the quality of poblano peppers, industrial tortillas, her gardener and servers in a restaurant. \"She apologizes for being prickly but doesn't stop,\" the reporter wrote.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Writer David Lida, who interviewed her for the now-defunct \u003cem>DF \u003c/em>magazine, dined with her at Mexico City hotspots which she almost universally panned. She called appetizers at one \"a horrible distortion of what it ought to be.\" It wasn't just the chefs Kennedy had strong words for—she blamed Mexico City's residents in general for desiring a going-out experience more than good food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003c/em>Kennedy is often referred to as a \"culinary anthropologist,\" though she prefers the term, \"ethno-gastronomer\". When recalling the title, it takes her a moment to translate it into English. She regularly drops Spanish words into conversation and either has to pause to translate them or moves on as though she hasn't noticed she's said \"postres\" rather than \"desserts.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Kennedy's bluntness is just a side effect of years of research into how to get this cuisine right. Her records of Mexican plants are so vast that CONABIO, Mexico's federal agency in charge of ecology and biodiversity, is digitizing them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In many ways, she's more of an academic than an author, and she finds it challenging to write her books. She sees each one of them as a chapter in her life. \"It's not just another cookbook,\" Kennedy says. \"It's research and my years in Mexico, how it's changed. Each book represents another part of my research and my life there.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2016 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "The cookbook \u003cem>Nothing Fancy\u003c/em>, first published in 1984, has just been re-released — and is the closest thing to a memoir that the formidable \"Julia Child of Mexico\" has ever written.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Diana Kennedy, often called the \"Julia Child of Mexico,\" is a woman of strong preferences.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She loves good butter and cream, Seville orange marmalade, black truffle shavings and escamoles (a caviar that comes from ant eggs). She hates the use of cassia (false cinnamon) in place of the real thing, canola oil, low- or non-fat dairy products, and nonstick pans.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And don't get her started on kosher salt, which despite being the \"beloved salt of virtually all American chefs,\" as she writes in \u003cem>Nothing Fancy\u003c/em>, tastes antiseptic and has a \"pedestrian\" flavor\u003cem>. \u003c/em>Originally published in 1984, Kennedy's book was re-released earlier this year with an updated introduction and new recipes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Nothing Fancy\u003c/em> is the closest Kennedy has ever come to a memoir, having spent her life cataloging Mexican cooking and plant life. Kennedy, 93, was born in England and has lived in Mexico since the 1950s. During her career she has written nine cookbooks, received the Order of the Aztec Eagle from the Mexican government—the highest award given to foreigners for service to Mexico—as well as the Order of the British Empire, an award for strengthening cultural ties between Mexico and the United Kingdom.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While it wasn't Kennedy's idea to re-release the cookbook, she says: \"I'm in the last decade of my life and I think people are curious.\" That curiosity is an understatement.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I first met her at a packed brunch in her honor at Mi Mero Mole, a Mexican restaurant in Portland, Oregon in late November. The chef and owner, Nick Solares, is one of many who have studied with Kennedy at her home, Quinta Diana, in Michoacán, Mexico. Some guests had met her at past book signings, while others were thrilled to have the chance to talk with her—even just for a few minutes—while she dutifully moved around the room and signed books. Over the past year, she's traveled throughout America to events like this one.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Despite the fact that she's English, Kennedy is credited with bringing Mexican food—the real stuff, not Tex-Mex—to the United States. Her first book, \u003cem>Cuisines of Mexico, \u003c/em>was the result of years of travel and study within the country. She credits information and recipes in her book to a wide array of people from Mexican home cooks to botanists and archaeologists.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_113883\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/books/titles/504451199/nothing-fancy-recipes-and-recollections-of-soul-satisfying-food\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/12/9781477308288_custom-497af5259facb931a02271765793a815a1532069-s700-c85.jpg\" alt=\"Nothing Fancy Recipes and Recollections of Soul-Satisfying Food by Diana Kennedy\" width=\"400\" height=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-113883\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/12/9781477308288_custom-497af5259facb931a02271765793a815a1532069-s700-c85.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/12/9781477308288_custom-497af5259facb931a02271765793a815a1532069-s700-c85-160x200.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/12/9781477308288_custom-497af5259facb931a02271765793a815a1532069-s700-c85-240x300.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/12/9781477308288_custom-497af5259facb931a02271765793a815a1532069-s700-c85-375x469.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nothing Fancy\u003cbr>Recipes and Recollections of Soul-Satisfying Food\u003cbr>by Diana Kennedy\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Though it has been more than 50 years since \u003cem>Cuisines\u003c/em> \u003cem>of Mexico's \u003c/em>release, she is still shocked by how little Americans know about our neighboring cuisine. \"How is it that you can go into an upper-crust supermarket and find things from maybe 20 countries and yet you can't find the best of Mexico?\" she wonders. She says that despite the 1,989-mile border (\"\u003cem>unfenced,\u003c/em> okay?\" she adds) that the U.S. shares with Mexico, so few foods and preparations make it across.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>During our interview she gives a brief lecture on the definition of \"salsa\"—seemingly a simple enough Mexican food. \"Let's not misuse the word!\" she admonishes. \"Everyone wants to put everything in the world in salsa. It drives me nuts.\" First of all, it's a condiment, not a topping, she explains. Second, it's made of chilis, onions, cilantro and tomato. That's it. \"People put awful things in salsa,\" she says. None of this mango salsa nonsense for her.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Kennedy is a culinary purist. She hates fusion food and grimaces when she recalls a meal at a fancy Japanese and French restaurant she recently dined at in New York. \"If I want French food, I want charcuterie and all those lovely dishes laden with butter and cream,\" she says. \"I want to taste the real flavors and textures of that cuisine.\" This is the trait that has led to both her success and her occasionally divisive reputation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>During brunch at Mi Mero Mole, Solares served a mole he learned to make from Diana Kennedy, but it was gluten-free, peanut-free and vegan to account for staff allergies and, one supposes, the dietary preferences of his customers. While Kennedy groans slightly during the announcement, she later says she has no problem with the changes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is a bit of a surprise. \"He's got to please his public and never was there a more finicky public in the whole wide world than the Americans,\" she says. While Kennedy can drop into town with her cookbooks and preferences and rules for making Mexican food properly, she doesn't have to live here, she explains.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_113879\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1850px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/12/diana-1-a00dadce2f54cd9f1c3e6086661dbd9986f7305f.jpg\" alt=\"Kennedy gives a cooking demonstration at Bloomingdale's in New York City in 1972.\" width=\"1850\" height=\"1387\" class=\"size-full wp-image-113879\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/12/diana-1-a00dadce2f54cd9f1c3e6086661dbd9986f7305f.jpg 1850w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/12/diana-1-a00dadce2f54cd9f1c3e6086661dbd9986f7305f-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/12/diana-1-a00dadce2f54cd9f1c3e6086661dbd9986f7305f-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/12/diana-1-a00dadce2f54cd9f1c3e6086661dbd9986f7305f-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/12/diana-1-a00dadce2f54cd9f1c3e6086661dbd9986f7305f-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/12/diana-1-a00dadce2f54cd9f1c3e6086661dbd9986f7305f-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/12/diana-1-a00dadce2f54cd9f1c3e6086661dbd9986f7305f-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/12/diana-1-a00dadce2f54cd9f1c3e6086661dbd9986f7305f-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/12/diana-1-a00dadce2f54cd9f1c3e6086661dbd9986f7305f-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/12/diana-1-a00dadce2f54cd9f1c3e6086661dbd9986f7305f-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1850px) 100vw, 1850px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Kennedy gives a cooking demonstration at Bloomingdale's in New York City in 1972. \u003ccite>(University of Texas Press)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>This type of understanding does not shine in many of the interviews she's given over the decades. In 2011, one \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2011/01/10/AR2011011007152.html\">Washington Post\u003c/a> \u003c/em>reporter described Kennedy as being full of complaints—about the quality of poblano peppers, industrial tortillas, her gardener and servers in a restaurant. \"She apologizes for being prickly but doesn't stop,\" the reporter wrote.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Writer David Lida, who interviewed her for the now-defunct \u003cem>DF \u003c/em>magazine, dined with her at Mexico City hotspots which she almost universally panned. She called appetizers at one \"a horrible distortion of what it ought to be.\" It wasn't just the chefs Kennedy had strong words for—she blamed Mexico City's residents in general for desiring a going-out experience more than good food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003c/em>Kennedy is often referred to as a \"culinary anthropologist,\" though she prefers the term, \"ethno-gastronomer\". When recalling the title, it takes her a moment to translate it into English. She regularly drops Spanish words into conversation and either has to pause to translate them or moves on as though she hasn't noticed she's said \"postres\" rather than \"desserts.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Kennedy's bluntness is just a side effect of years of research into how to get this cuisine right. Her records of Mexican plants are so vast that CONABIO, Mexico's federal agency in charge of ecology and biodiversity, is digitizing them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In many ways, she's more of an academic than an author, and she finds it challenging to write her books. She sees each one of them as a chapter in her life. \"It's not just another cookbook,\" Kennedy says. \"It's research and my years in Mexico, how it's changed. Each book represents another part of my research and my life there.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "Food for the Soul at the Mill Valley Film Festival",
"title": "Food for the Soul at the Mill Valley Film Festival",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>The \u003ca href=\"http://www.mvff.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Mill Valley Film Festival\u003c/a> inhabits a rare “goldilocks” zone within the cinematic universe, with the smart good fortune of arriving as summer turns to fall and Hollywood gears up for Oscar gold. The festival manages to snag more than its fair share of prestigious premieres weeks or months before they become available to the rest of us, attracting the attention of A-list stars willing to spend a couple of days being feted in tony, upscale Marin. (Twenty-sixteen is no different; the festival guest list includes Amy Adams, Nicole Kidman, Gael Garcia Bernal, Aaron Eckhart, Julie Dash and Ewan McGregor among dozens of glittering others.) Most likely, part of the fest's draw is the food and wine on tap in a region famous for -- well -- food and wine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a fitting pairing, this year’s festival features a small selection of films detailing the exploits of international celebrity chefs and restaurateurs. Anyone who has viewed even a small number of food documentaries knows that the genre has developed a very strong sensual style of its own. One doesn’t just take a camera into a kitchen and uncover magic in the making. Food preparation doesn’t often look that appetizing. There is an art to the lighting and presentation of the process that has been refined since the mid-1960s. Now we find ourselves in an age where the glories of food are regularly celebrated in dazzling cinematic style. All three of the films featured in Mill Valley’s culinary sidebar present their subjects in sumptuous detail. They are gorgeous and absorbing, illuminating activities and slices of history, while expanding ideas about what constitutes nourishment. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In Lydia Tenaglia’s \u003ca href=\"https://vimeo.com/181403743\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>Jeremiah Tower: The Last Magnificent\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, the very personal struggles of a legendary celebrity chef are delicately exposed. The film is almost like a therapy session, a journey into the subconscious motivations of a complicated man, beginning with lush reenactments of childhood trauma. Tower, the son of wealthy Brits, spent much of his life traveling the world first class -- with his family and without them. Apparently, the boy was left to his own devices in luxury liner cabins and four star hotel rooms from a very early age. He even lived for a time alone in a hotel suite until his parents realized that neither had enrolled him in school. While these adventures included (often inappropriate) sexual encounters, they also locate Tower’s love of food inside the kitchens of the world's most exclusive establishments. The young Tower seems to have eaten his feelings and later on would express his affection for friends through a kind of regurgitation (that sounds awful, I know) in the kitchen. He recreated from memory the dishes of his childhood in an attempt to conjure those early feelings of comfort for himself and his guests. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_112512\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1400px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/JT.jpg\" alt=\"Jeremiah Tower: The Last Magnificent.\" width=\"1400\" height=\"788\" class=\"size-full wp-image-112512\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/JT.jpg 1400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/JT-400x225.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/JT-800x450.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/JT-768x432.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/JT-1180x664.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/JT-960x540.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1400px) 100vw, 1400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jeremiah Tower: The Last Magnificent. \u003ccite>(Morgan Fallon)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Tower is, and apparently always has been, a capital-R Romantic; an overwhelming sense of melancholy hangs over the film. He seems to have been born out of time, carrying deep inside a longing for a lost aesthetic age. Most BAB readers will know the outline of the chef’s history. Having graduated from Harvard (his interest was in underwater architecture), Tower’s family promptly cut him loose financially. In search of a job, he ended up at Berkeley's Chez Panisse in 1972. At the time, it was a struggling hangout for Alice Waters and her crew, described by one character in the film as a “hippie, drug-ridden explosion in a playpen.” Gorgeous old film footage captures a sense of wild abandon and innocence at the famed restaurant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tower brought his ideas about food from a lifetime of travel to Chez Panisse and within a few years helped put it on the map. This being Berkeley in the 1970s, the endeavor is described as something of an orgy — sex, drugs, love, food, creation, companionship, drama and more sex. The relationship between Waters and Tower included enough heat to create a legend, spark a food movement, and unfortunately ended in a very public feud. (Saint Alice is silent -- at least within the confines of this film -- on the subject.) Tower continued his rise and became the celebrity chef of San Francisco in the 1980s, opening the world-class Stars as a hangout for famous characters high and low. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But at some point, Tower dropped out of sight and went into seclusion. Once ubiquitous, synonymous with the California cuisine he helped to create, the enigmatic chef moved on. \u003cem>The Last Magnificent\u003c/em> attempts to solve the man’s mystery, but only generates more. Tower is more than once described as having a “locked room inside.” The film cracks open that door just a little, but every explanation seems too simplistic. How can we really know the unknown forces that drive those who change the world? \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_112513\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1400px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/ella.jpg\" alt=\"Ella Brennan: Commanding the Table\" width=\"1400\" height=\"1120\" class=\"size-full wp-image-112513\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/ella.jpg 1400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/ella-400x320.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/ella-800x640.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/ella-768x614.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/ella-1180x944.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/ella-960x768.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1400px) 100vw, 1400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ella Brennan: Commanding the Table \u003ccite>(Jack Robinson)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Equally sumptuous is Leslie Iwerks' \u003cem>Ella Brennan: Commanding the Table\u003c/em>, a loving portrait of the doyenne of New Orleans cooking. It is interesting to view this film next to the one about Jeremiah Tower because it illuminates the importance of healthy collaboration between a smart, creative restaurateur and the chefs who create the menu. Where the partnership between Waters and Tower became complicated by unknown and still unexplained tensions, Ella Brennan’s success is based on her ability to unlock culinary creativity within the magnetic personalities she has ushered into the spotlight. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Brennan was pushed into the career she would spend the rest of her life pursuing by her eldest brother. One of six siblings in a very tight clan, Ella became involved in what became the family business in her teens, when the Brennans decided to take over a famous New Orleans nightspot. The Irish clan soon found themselves in direct competition with the city’s famous French restaurants and struggled to define themselves. They decided to put their signature on breakfast, added alcohol and ushered in a new era of creativity for a previously ignored meal. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The film gorgeously moves through the family’s early years in the business, opening and establishing one amazing restaurant after another in New Orleans. Ella’s philosophy is summed up in her younger sister’s statement, “[Running a restaurant] is like show business. You do two shows a day. At five o’clock you brush your teeth, put your lipstick on, have a scotch and do the whole thing again.” Ella Brennan lead her family through multiple incarnations and eventually ended up reviving Commander’s Palace, where she would introduce chefs Paul Prudhomme, Emeril Lagasse and Jamie Shannon to the world. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://vimeo.com/181401441\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Similar to Jeremiah Tower, no detail of the food experience takes precedence for Brennan. Both characters are driven and exacting. Brennan’s success can be attributed to her personable application of hospitality, which she developed early, and to her ability to spot talented chefs, encouraging each to express his own unique vision in the kitchen. Food is entertainment to be sure, but for Brennan sharing a table, even with hundreds of people a night, is powerfully connected to home and family. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_112514\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1400px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/massimo.jpg\" alt=\"Massimo Bottura, Theater of Life\" width=\"1400\" height=\"788\" class=\"size-full wp-image-112514\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/massimo.jpg 1400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/massimo-400x225.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/massimo-800x450.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/massimo-768x432.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/massimo-1180x664.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/massimo-960x540.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1400px) 100vw, 1400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Massimo Bottura, Theater of Life\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Finally, the third film in the Mill Valley Film Festival's food trilogy is Peter Svatek's \u003cem>Theater of Life\u003c/em>, which documents chef Massimo Bottura's innovative program to eliminate food waste at Expo Milano 2015, a world's fair held in Milan, Italy. Inspired by the expo's theme, \"Feeding the Planet, Energy for Life,\" Bottura, whose Osteria Francescana was named world’s best restaurant in 2016, converted an abandoned theater into a soup kitchen. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Renowned chefs from around the world turned each day’s spoils — food headed for the trash bin (most particularly day-old bread) — into gourmet meals for the homeless. Through the effort we come to know the issues faced by the beneficiaries of these amazing dishes. The cast of characters is large, including international food stars, a parish priest, poor and disabled Italians and African refugees, who all meet at the tables of Bottura's Reffetorio. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://vimeo.com/174869482\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The first two documentaries in this series present lovingly crafted histories of characters who have had a tremendous impact on how we eat and — most importantly — how we think about food. \u003cem>Theater of Life\u003c/em> provides an important way forward with a philosophy for managing our precious resources and channeling thought and talent into the feeding of a greater portion of the population. Why should fine dining be limited to the elites when so much food is going to waste? Why is healthy food a luxury? Why are the lessons Tower, Brennan and countless others have taught us about the nature of food still only understood by a precious few? \u003cem>Theater of Life\u003c/em> shows how the consumption of good food actually does more than feed the body; it opens the mind and nourishes the soul.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Mill Valley Film Festival runs October 6-16, 2016 at various Marin County locations. For tickets and information visit \u003ca href=\"http://www.mvff.com/\" target=\"_blank\">mvff.com\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "In a fitting pairing, this year’s festival features a small selection of films detailing the exploits of international celebrity chefs and restaurateurs. The Mill Valley Film Festival runs October 6-16, 2016 at various Marin County locations.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>The \u003ca href=\"http://www.mvff.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Mill Valley Film Festival\u003c/a> inhabits a rare “goldilocks” zone within the cinematic universe, with the smart good fortune of arriving as summer turns to fall and Hollywood gears up for Oscar gold. The festival manages to snag more than its fair share of prestigious premieres weeks or months before they become available to the rest of us, attracting the attention of A-list stars willing to spend a couple of days being feted in tony, upscale Marin. (Twenty-sixteen is no different; the festival guest list includes Amy Adams, Nicole Kidman, Gael Garcia Bernal, Aaron Eckhart, Julie Dash and Ewan McGregor among dozens of glittering others.) Most likely, part of the fest's draw is the food and wine on tap in a region famous for -- well -- food and wine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a fitting pairing, this year’s festival features a small selection of films detailing the exploits of international celebrity chefs and restaurateurs. Anyone who has viewed even a small number of food documentaries knows that the genre has developed a very strong sensual style of its own. One doesn’t just take a camera into a kitchen and uncover magic in the making. Food preparation doesn’t often look that appetizing. There is an art to the lighting and presentation of the process that has been refined since the mid-1960s. Now we find ourselves in an age where the glories of food are regularly celebrated in dazzling cinematic style. All three of the films featured in Mill Valley’s culinary sidebar present their subjects in sumptuous detail. They are gorgeous and absorbing, illuminating activities and slices of history, while expanding ideas about what constitutes nourishment. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In Lydia Tenaglia’s \u003ca href=\"https://vimeo.com/181403743\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>Jeremiah Tower: The Last Magnificent\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, the very personal struggles of a legendary celebrity chef are delicately exposed. The film is almost like a therapy session, a journey into the subconscious motivations of a complicated man, beginning with lush reenactments of childhood trauma. Tower, the son of wealthy Brits, spent much of his life traveling the world first class -- with his family and without them. Apparently, the boy was left to his own devices in luxury liner cabins and four star hotel rooms from a very early age. He even lived for a time alone in a hotel suite until his parents realized that neither had enrolled him in school. While these adventures included (often inappropriate) sexual encounters, they also locate Tower’s love of food inside the kitchens of the world's most exclusive establishments. The young Tower seems to have eaten his feelings and later on would express his affection for friends through a kind of regurgitation (that sounds awful, I know) in the kitchen. He recreated from memory the dishes of his childhood in an attempt to conjure those early feelings of comfort for himself and his guests. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_112512\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1400px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/JT.jpg\" alt=\"Jeremiah Tower: The Last Magnificent.\" width=\"1400\" height=\"788\" class=\"size-full wp-image-112512\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/JT.jpg 1400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/JT-400x225.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/JT-800x450.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/JT-768x432.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/JT-1180x664.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/JT-960x540.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1400px) 100vw, 1400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jeremiah Tower: The Last Magnificent. \u003ccite>(Morgan Fallon)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Tower is, and apparently always has been, a capital-R Romantic; an overwhelming sense of melancholy hangs over the film. He seems to have been born out of time, carrying deep inside a longing for a lost aesthetic age. Most BAB readers will know the outline of the chef’s history. Having graduated from Harvard (his interest was in underwater architecture), Tower’s family promptly cut him loose financially. In search of a job, he ended up at Berkeley's Chez Panisse in 1972. At the time, it was a struggling hangout for Alice Waters and her crew, described by one character in the film as a “hippie, drug-ridden explosion in a playpen.” Gorgeous old film footage captures a sense of wild abandon and innocence at the famed restaurant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tower brought his ideas about food from a lifetime of travel to Chez Panisse and within a few years helped put it on the map. This being Berkeley in the 1970s, the endeavor is described as something of an orgy — sex, drugs, love, food, creation, companionship, drama and more sex. The relationship between Waters and Tower included enough heat to create a legend, spark a food movement, and unfortunately ended in a very public feud. (Saint Alice is silent -- at least within the confines of this film -- on the subject.) Tower continued his rise and became the celebrity chef of San Francisco in the 1980s, opening the world-class Stars as a hangout for famous characters high and low. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But at some point, Tower dropped out of sight and went into seclusion. Once ubiquitous, synonymous with the California cuisine he helped to create, the enigmatic chef moved on. \u003cem>The Last Magnificent\u003c/em> attempts to solve the man’s mystery, but only generates more. Tower is more than once described as having a “locked room inside.” The film cracks open that door just a little, but every explanation seems too simplistic. How can we really know the unknown forces that drive those who change the world? \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_112513\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1400px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/ella.jpg\" alt=\"Ella Brennan: Commanding the Table\" width=\"1400\" height=\"1120\" class=\"size-full wp-image-112513\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/ella.jpg 1400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/ella-400x320.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/ella-800x640.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/ella-768x614.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/ella-1180x944.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/ella-960x768.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1400px) 100vw, 1400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ella Brennan: Commanding the Table \u003ccite>(Jack Robinson)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Equally sumptuous is Leslie Iwerks' \u003cem>Ella Brennan: Commanding the Table\u003c/em>, a loving portrait of the doyenne of New Orleans cooking. It is interesting to view this film next to the one about Jeremiah Tower because it illuminates the importance of healthy collaboration between a smart, creative restaurateur and the chefs who create the menu. Where the partnership between Waters and Tower became complicated by unknown and still unexplained tensions, Ella Brennan’s success is based on her ability to unlock culinary creativity within the magnetic personalities she has ushered into the spotlight. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Brennan was pushed into the career she would spend the rest of her life pursuing by her eldest brother. One of six siblings in a very tight clan, Ella became involved in what became the family business in her teens, when the Brennans decided to take over a famous New Orleans nightspot. The Irish clan soon found themselves in direct competition with the city’s famous French restaurants and struggled to define themselves. They decided to put their signature on breakfast, added alcohol and ushered in a new era of creativity for a previously ignored meal. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The film gorgeously moves through the family’s early years in the business, opening and establishing one amazing restaurant after another in New Orleans. Ella’s philosophy is summed up in her younger sister’s statement, “[Running a restaurant] is like show business. You do two shows a day. At five o’clock you brush your teeth, put your lipstick on, have a scotch and do the whole thing again.” Ella Brennan lead her family through multiple incarnations and eventually ended up reviving Commander’s Palace, where she would introduce chefs Paul Prudhomme, Emeril Lagasse and Jamie Shannon to the world. \u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Similar to Jeremiah Tower, no detail of the food experience takes precedence for Brennan. Both characters are driven and exacting. Brennan’s success can be attributed to her personable application of hospitality, which she developed early, and to her ability to spot talented chefs, encouraging each to express his own unique vision in the kitchen. Food is entertainment to be sure, but for Brennan sharing a table, even with hundreds of people a night, is powerfully connected to home and family. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_112514\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1400px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/massimo.jpg\" alt=\"Massimo Bottura, Theater of Life\" width=\"1400\" height=\"788\" class=\"size-full wp-image-112514\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/massimo.jpg 1400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/massimo-400x225.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/massimo-800x450.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/massimo-768x432.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/massimo-1180x664.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/massimo-960x540.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1400px) 100vw, 1400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Massimo Bottura, Theater of Life\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Finally, the third film in the Mill Valley Film Festival's food trilogy is Peter Svatek's \u003cem>Theater of Life\u003c/em>, which documents chef Massimo Bottura's innovative program to eliminate food waste at Expo Milano 2015, a world's fair held in Milan, Italy. Inspired by the expo's theme, \"Feeding the Planet, Energy for Life,\" Bottura, whose Osteria Francescana was named world’s best restaurant in 2016, converted an abandoned theater into a soup kitchen. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Renowned chefs from around the world turned each day’s spoils — food headed for the trash bin (most particularly day-old bread) — into gourmet meals for the homeless. Through the effort we come to know the issues faced by the beneficiaries of these amazing dishes. The cast of characters is large, including international food stars, a parish priest, poor and disabled Italians and African refugees, who all meet at the tables of Bottura's Reffetorio. \u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>The first two documentaries in this series present lovingly crafted histories of characters who have had a tremendous impact on how we eat and — most importantly — how we think about food. \u003cem>Theater of Life\u003c/em> provides an important way forward with a philosophy for managing our precious resources and channeling thought and talent into the feeding of a greater portion of the population. Why should fine dining be limited to the elites when so much food is going to waste? Why is healthy food a luxury? Why are the lessons Tower, Brennan and countless others have taught us about the nature of food still only understood by a precious few? \u003cem>Theater of Life\u003c/em> shows how the consumption of good food actually does more than feed the body; it opens the mind and nourishes the soul.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Mill Valley Film Festival runs October 6-16, 2016 at various Marin County locations. For tickets and information visit \u003ca href=\"http://www.mvff.com/\" target=\"_blank\">mvff.com\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "In the Queer Kitchen: A Conversation with John Birdsall, Preeti Mistry, and Nik Sharma",
"title": "In the Queer Kitchen: A Conversation with John Birdsall, Preeti Mistry, and Nik Sharma",
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"content": "\u003cp>What is a queer kitchen? Is there a recognizable queer style or sensibility that can be expressed through food? Can non-gay chefs queer their food? As the rainbow-stickered crowds in booty shorts and body glitter surged through Dolores Park and Civic Center on a sunny Saturday afternoon, a rather more sedate audience of thirty gathered upstairs at Williams Sonoma's flagship store in Union Square to listen to a discussion of these questions and more. The conversation was the first San Francisco event organized by the New York-based gay men's food magazine \u003ca href=\"http://www.jarrymag.com\" target=\"_blank\">Jarry\u003c/a>, a twice-yearly print publication that launched (thanks in part to a Kickstarter campaign) in the fall of 2015. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_110367\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent4-new.jpg\" alt=\"Jarry issue 2 and tote bags.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" class=\"size-full wp-image-110367\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent4-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent4-new-400x400.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent4-new-800x800.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent4-new-768x768.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent4-new-1440x1440.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent4-new-1180x1180.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent4-new-960x960.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent4-new-150x150.jpg 150w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent4-new-32x32.jpg 32w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent4-new-50x50.jpg 50w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent4-new-64x64.jpg 64w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent4-new-96x96.jpg 96w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent4-new-128x128.jpg 128w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jarry issue 2 and tote bags. \u003ccite>(Stephanie Rosenbaum Klassen)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>According to moderator (and Jarry co-founder/editor) Lukas Volger, the idea of the \"queer kitchen\"--as opposed to \"gay food\"--seemed both more inclusive and more contemporary, at a time when few, if any, restaurants would position themselves as catering to an exclusively gay clientele. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Writer and former chef John Birdsall is a firm believer that there is a queer aesthetic in food, with its roots in the work of Craig Claiborne, James Beard, and ex-pat Richard Olney, a trifecta of closeted gay men whose sensibilities and far-reaching influence changed the way Americans cooked. It's a legacy that Birdsall thinks more people--especially straight chefs--should acknowledge. \"I love \u003ca href=\"http://luckypeach.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Lucky Peach\u003c/a> [magazine],\" said Birdsall. \"But the first couple of issues were really reflective of that male, straight, bro-y chef culture.\" It was this narrowly macho focus that led Birdsall to set the record less than straight with \u003ca href=\"http://luckypeach.com/america-your-food-is-so-gay/\" target=\"_blank\">America, Your Food is So Gay\u003c/a>, which won a James Beard Journalism Award in 2014. Birdsall, now 56, remembers he and a boyfriend reading aloud from Olney's writings, feeling like they were getting a glimpse of a secret gay world, one that was, by necessity, elusive, both cooly cerebral yet infused with the sensuality of Olney's adopted home in the south of France, its brilliant light, its hillsides of thyme and lavender. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But what was coded and discrete before was, by the 1990s, exploding into \u003cem>we're here, we're queer, get used to it\u003c/em>, especially in San Francisco. When Preeti Mistry, co-owner and head chef of Oakland's \u003ca href=\"http://www.juhubeachclub.com\" target=\"_blank\">Juhu Beach Club\u003c/a>, first came to San Francisco in 1996, she found out lesbians like Elizabeth Falkner, Traci Des Jardins, and Elka Gilmore putting their stamp on the evolving California cuisine of the time. Mistry, who originally wanted to be a filmmaker, was inspired by these chefs' creativity and fearlessness, so much so that she left a job in the \"gay bubble\" of \u003ca href=\"http://frameline.org/\" target=\"_blank\">Frameline\u003c/a> to start training in fine dining at Claridge's in London. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_110361\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 3024px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent6-new.jpg\" alt=\"Writer John Birdsall, photographer Nik Sharma, restauranteur/chef Preeti Mistry, in conversation with Jarry editor Lukas Volger.\" width=\"3024\" height=\"3024\" class=\"size-full wp-image-110361\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent6-new.jpg 3024w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent6-new-400x400.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent6-new-800x800.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent6-new-768x768.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent6-new-1440x1440.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent6-new-1180x1180.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent6-new-960x960.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent6-new-150x150.jpg 150w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent6-new-32x32.jpg 32w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent6-new-50x50.jpg 50w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent6-new-64x64.jpg 64w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent6-new-96x96.jpg 96w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent6-new-128x128.jpg 128w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 3024px) 100vw, 3024px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Writer John Birdsall, photographer Nik Sharma, restauranteur/chef Preeti Mistry, in conversation with Jarry editor Lukas Volger. \u003ccite>(Stephanie Rosenbaum Klassen)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"These women were my heroes,\" she said. It wasn't just that these women were out, at a time when restaurant kitchens could still be tough places for women, gay or straight. It was that they were changing the game, on and off the plate. \"At Citizen Cake, Elizabeth changed the presentation of pastry,\" said Mistry. Her cakes were architectural, pierced with sugar shards or kitschily frosted shag-carpet deep. They were disruptive, deconstructed, even a little bit dangerous. (It's no surprise that her first cookbook, written in the form of a comic book, was titled \"Demolition Desserts.\") Mistry remembers a dinner with Jim Dodge, then a well-known pastry chef trained in a more classical style. \"When Elizabeth's dessert came out, he said 'What is this crap?'\" It was a clash of sensibilities, his gay, hers queer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For photographer Nik Sharma of the blog \u003ca href=\"http://www.abrowntable.com/\" target=\"_blank\">A Brown Table\u003c/a>, and the youngest of the group, coming out wasn't an issue, but finding a gay social circle when he first started medical school wasn't easy. A chat with a gay professor led to an invitation to the med school's \"secret gay potluck\"--secret not out of fear, but simply because \"they didn't want any straights to come,\" said Sharma. Formerly a medical researcher, now a professional photographer specializing in food, he still treasures the friendships he made over those dinners. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_110362\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2499px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent5.jpg\" alt=\"Photographer Nik Sharma and writer John Birdsall, with portrait of Sharma by Patrick Byrnes from Jarry issue 2.\" width=\"2499\" height=\"2846\" class=\"size-full wp-image-110362\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent5.jpg 2499w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent5-400x456.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent5-800x911.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent5-768x875.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent5-1440x1640.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent5-1180x1344.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent5-960x1093.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2499px) 100vw, 2499px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Photographer Nik Sharma and writer John Birdsall, with portrait of Sharma by Patrick Byrnes from Jarry issue 2. \u003ccite>(Stephanie Rosenbaum Klassen)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Sharma, like Mistry, is of Indian heritage. Calling out his brownness in the title of his blog--and often photographing his own hands as he made pastry or squeezed oranges--was a deliberate choice, compelled by a wish to make visual space for his immigrant perspective and culture within a blogging world that was overwhelming white and female. His work has paid off: next week, he'll have a new column, A Brown Kitchen, in the San Francisco Chronicle, and his blog has won numerous awards for photography. Sharma was also the subject of a \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/arts/2016/01/08/discover-the-hands-behind-nik-sharmas-food-photography/\" target=\"_blank\">short video\u003c/a> on KQED back in January.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Birdsall, who won a second James Beard Award for \u003ca href=\"https://medium.com/jarry-mag/straight-up-passing-1fab62a5536c#.a3mm0vlqj\" target=\"_blank\">Straight Up Passing\u003c/a>, an article about gay chefs in Jarry's first issue, sees queer cooking as an act of anti-normative transgression and resistance. It's not a concept that all the chefs he spoke to agreed with--in fact, he was stonewalled by several high-profile out chefs, who bristled at being categorized as \"gay chefs,\" much in the way that many artists resist being defined as \"women writers\" or \"female musicians,\" or felt that their sexuality had nothing to do with how they cooked. Or was it just that these chefs--white and \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cisgender\" target=\"_blank\">cisgender\u003c/a>, as Mistry points out--still had more to lose by promoting a higher profile gay identity, even in these more equal times? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Birdsall feels that such transgressive attitudes in the kitchen can be adopted even by non-gay chefs. He points to the boundary-breaking of \u003ca href=\"https://missionchinesefood.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Mission Chinese Food,\u003c/a> as well as the \"sensitive, fluid, thoughtful\" cooking of \u003ca href=\"http://dpgrp.co/\" target=\"_blank\">Daniel Patterson.\u003c/a> Reaching back to the work of Jeremiah Tower (who was mentored by both Beard and Olney), Birdsall sees Tower's shaping of California cuisine in the 1980s as \"a repudiation of the more formal cuisine that came before, as an expression of intense pleasurability, [creating] these very high-level, pleasurable experiences in both cooking and eating.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I'm not interested in forcing something that's not natural, in over-manipulation\" of ingredients or presentation, said Mistry. \"We're not distilling things; it's fire and food and spices.\" And while she does have a underlying aesthetic for plating (\"It's not a trough!\"), she doesn't see the need to torture her food with stylists' tweezers, either. More important to Mistry is creating a workplace, and a dining room, that's diverse and welcoming in ways that restaurants haven't always been, both for diners and employees. Her goal is a place that's so diverse that no one group is on top with the power to belittle or harass others. The vulgar humor that's been long seen as a staple in restaurant kitchens has no place in hers. \"We make jokes and laugh all day long,\" said Mistry, but her employees learn fast that dumb dick jokes won't fly. \"We just shame and humiliate them if they try. Like, 'that's the best you come up with? Really?'\" Mistry said. \"They have to work harder than that.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As a butch woman of color, Mistry has experienced first-hand the stark contrast between how she and her wife, Juhu Beach Club co-owner Ann Nadeau, are treated in restaurants when they are and aren't recognized. If she's recognized from her stint on Top Chef and Anthony Bourdain's \u003ca href=\"http://sfist.com/2015/10/14/eat_exactly_as_anthony_bourdain_did.php\" target=\"_blank\">Parts Unknown\u003c/a> food and travel show, they get the industry hotshot treatment; if not, they've been ignored by bartenders and slighted by hostesses. \"When \u003ca href=\"http://blacklivesmatter.com/category/alicia-garza/\" target=\"_blank\">Alicia Garza\u003c/a>, a co-founder of the Black Lives Matter movement, comes in, we treat her like a rock star,\" Mistry said. Part of running her own restaurant is the freedom to speak out for causes and issues she and Nadeau feel strongly about, and to create a workplace that reflects the diversity of Oakland, where she and Nadeau work and live. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The tides are changing, both in race and gender,\" Mistry said. \"People are used to seeing brown people in the kitchen. We'd like to have an equal diversity in the front of the house.\" \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>What is a queer kitchen? Is there a recognizable queer style or sensibility that can be expressed through food? Can non-gay chefs queer their food? As the rainbow-stickered crowds in booty shorts and body glitter surged through Dolores Park and Civic Center on a sunny Saturday afternoon, a rather more sedate audience of thirty gathered upstairs at Williams Sonoma's flagship store in Union Square to listen to a discussion of these questions and more. The conversation was the first San Francisco event organized by the New York-based gay men's food magazine \u003ca href=\"http://www.jarrymag.com\" target=\"_blank\">Jarry\u003c/a>, a twice-yearly print publication that launched (thanks in part to a Kickstarter campaign) in the fall of 2015. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_110367\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent4-new.jpg\" alt=\"Jarry issue 2 and tote bags.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" class=\"size-full wp-image-110367\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent4-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent4-new-400x400.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent4-new-800x800.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent4-new-768x768.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent4-new-1440x1440.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent4-new-1180x1180.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent4-new-960x960.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent4-new-150x150.jpg 150w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent4-new-32x32.jpg 32w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent4-new-50x50.jpg 50w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent4-new-64x64.jpg 64w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent4-new-96x96.jpg 96w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent4-new-128x128.jpg 128w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jarry issue 2 and tote bags. \u003ccite>(Stephanie Rosenbaum Klassen)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>According to moderator (and Jarry co-founder/editor) Lukas Volger, the idea of the \"queer kitchen\"--as opposed to \"gay food\"--seemed both more inclusive and more contemporary, at a time when few, if any, restaurants would position themselves as catering to an exclusively gay clientele. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Writer and former chef John Birdsall is a firm believer that there is a queer aesthetic in food, with its roots in the work of Craig Claiborne, James Beard, and ex-pat Richard Olney, a trifecta of closeted gay men whose sensibilities and far-reaching influence changed the way Americans cooked. It's a legacy that Birdsall thinks more people--especially straight chefs--should acknowledge. \"I love \u003ca href=\"http://luckypeach.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Lucky Peach\u003c/a> [magazine],\" said Birdsall. \"But the first couple of issues were really reflective of that male, straight, bro-y chef culture.\" It was this narrowly macho focus that led Birdsall to set the record less than straight with \u003ca href=\"http://luckypeach.com/america-your-food-is-so-gay/\" target=\"_blank\">America, Your Food is So Gay\u003c/a>, which won a James Beard Journalism Award in 2014. Birdsall, now 56, remembers he and a boyfriend reading aloud from Olney's writings, feeling like they were getting a glimpse of a secret gay world, one that was, by necessity, elusive, both cooly cerebral yet infused with the sensuality of Olney's adopted home in the south of France, its brilliant light, its hillsides of thyme and lavender. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But what was coded and discrete before was, by the 1990s, exploding into \u003cem>we're here, we're queer, get used to it\u003c/em>, especially in San Francisco. When Preeti Mistry, co-owner and head chef of Oakland's \u003ca href=\"http://www.juhubeachclub.com\" target=\"_blank\">Juhu Beach Club\u003c/a>, first came to San Francisco in 1996, she found out lesbians like Elizabeth Falkner, Traci Des Jardins, and Elka Gilmore putting their stamp on the evolving California cuisine of the time. Mistry, who originally wanted to be a filmmaker, was inspired by these chefs' creativity and fearlessness, so much so that she left a job in the \"gay bubble\" of \u003ca href=\"http://frameline.org/\" target=\"_blank\">Frameline\u003c/a> to start training in fine dining at Claridge's in London. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_110361\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 3024px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent6-new.jpg\" alt=\"Writer John Birdsall, photographer Nik Sharma, restauranteur/chef Preeti Mistry, in conversation with Jarry editor Lukas Volger.\" width=\"3024\" height=\"3024\" class=\"size-full wp-image-110361\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent6-new.jpg 3024w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent6-new-400x400.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent6-new-800x800.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent6-new-768x768.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent6-new-1440x1440.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent6-new-1180x1180.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent6-new-960x960.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent6-new-150x150.jpg 150w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent6-new-32x32.jpg 32w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent6-new-50x50.jpg 50w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent6-new-64x64.jpg 64w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent6-new-96x96.jpg 96w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent6-new-128x128.jpg 128w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 3024px) 100vw, 3024px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Writer John Birdsall, photographer Nik Sharma, restauranteur/chef Preeti Mistry, in conversation with Jarry editor Lukas Volger. \u003ccite>(Stephanie Rosenbaum Klassen)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"These women were my heroes,\" she said. It wasn't just that these women were out, at a time when restaurant kitchens could still be tough places for women, gay or straight. It was that they were changing the game, on and off the plate. \"At Citizen Cake, Elizabeth changed the presentation of pastry,\" said Mistry. Her cakes were architectural, pierced with sugar shards or kitschily frosted shag-carpet deep. They were disruptive, deconstructed, even a little bit dangerous. (It's no surprise that her first cookbook, written in the form of a comic book, was titled \"Demolition Desserts.\") Mistry remembers a dinner with Jim Dodge, then a well-known pastry chef trained in a more classical style. \"When Elizabeth's dessert came out, he said 'What is this crap?'\" It was a clash of sensibilities, his gay, hers queer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For photographer Nik Sharma of the blog \u003ca href=\"http://www.abrowntable.com/\" target=\"_blank\">A Brown Table\u003c/a>, and the youngest of the group, coming out wasn't an issue, but finding a gay social circle when he first started medical school wasn't easy. A chat with a gay professor led to an invitation to the med school's \"secret gay potluck\"--secret not out of fear, but simply because \"they didn't want any straights to come,\" said Sharma. Formerly a medical researcher, now a professional photographer specializing in food, he still treasures the friendships he made over those dinners. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_110362\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2499px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent5.jpg\" alt=\"Photographer Nik Sharma and writer John Birdsall, with portrait of Sharma by Patrick Byrnes from Jarry issue 2.\" width=\"2499\" height=\"2846\" class=\"size-full wp-image-110362\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent5.jpg 2499w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent5-400x456.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent5-800x911.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent5-768x875.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent5-1440x1640.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent5-1180x1344.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent5-960x1093.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2499px) 100vw, 2499px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Photographer Nik Sharma and writer John Birdsall, with portrait of Sharma by Patrick Byrnes from Jarry issue 2. \u003ccite>(Stephanie Rosenbaum Klassen)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Sharma, like Mistry, is of Indian heritage. Calling out his brownness in the title of his blog--and often photographing his own hands as he made pastry or squeezed oranges--was a deliberate choice, compelled by a wish to make visual space for his immigrant perspective and culture within a blogging world that was overwhelming white and female. His work has paid off: next week, he'll have a new column, A Brown Kitchen, in the San Francisco Chronicle, and his blog has won numerous awards for photography. Sharma was also the subject of a \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/arts/2016/01/08/discover-the-hands-behind-nik-sharmas-food-photography/\" target=\"_blank\">short video\u003c/a> on KQED back in January.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Birdsall, who won a second James Beard Award for \u003ca href=\"https://medium.com/jarry-mag/straight-up-passing-1fab62a5536c#.a3mm0vlqj\" target=\"_blank\">Straight Up Passing\u003c/a>, an article about gay chefs in Jarry's first issue, sees queer cooking as an act of anti-normative transgression and resistance. It's not a concept that all the chefs he spoke to agreed with--in fact, he was stonewalled by several high-profile out chefs, who bristled at being categorized as \"gay chefs,\" much in the way that many artists resist being defined as \"women writers\" or \"female musicians,\" or felt that their sexuality had nothing to do with how they cooked. Or was it just that these chefs--white and \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cisgender\" target=\"_blank\">cisgender\u003c/a>, as Mistry points out--still had more to lose by promoting a higher profile gay identity, even in these more equal times? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Birdsall feels that such transgressive attitudes in the kitchen can be adopted even by non-gay chefs. He points to the boundary-breaking of \u003ca href=\"https://missionchinesefood.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Mission Chinese Food,\u003c/a> as well as the \"sensitive, fluid, thoughtful\" cooking of \u003ca href=\"http://dpgrp.co/\" target=\"_blank\">Daniel Patterson.\u003c/a> Reaching back to the work of Jeremiah Tower (who was mentored by both Beard and Olney), Birdsall sees Tower's shaping of California cuisine in the 1980s as \"a repudiation of the more formal cuisine that came before, as an expression of intense pleasurability, [creating] these very high-level, pleasurable experiences in both cooking and eating.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I'm not interested in forcing something that's not natural, in over-manipulation\" of ingredients or presentation, said Mistry. \"We're not distilling things; it's fire and food and spices.\" And while she does have a underlying aesthetic for plating (\"It's not a trough!\"), she doesn't see the need to torture her food with stylists' tweezers, either. More important to Mistry is creating a workplace, and a dining room, that's diverse and welcoming in ways that restaurants haven't always been, both for diners and employees. Her goal is a place that's so diverse that no one group is on top with the power to belittle or harass others. The vulgar humor that's been long seen as a staple in restaurant kitchens has no place in hers. \"We make jokes and laugh all day long,\" said Mistry, but her employees learn fast that dumb dick jokes won't fly. \"We just shame and humiliate them if they try. Like, 'that's the best you come up with? Really?'\" Mistry said. \"They have to work harder than that.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As a butch woman of color, Mistry has experienced first-hand the stark contrast between how she and her wife, Juhu Beach Club co-owner Ann Nadeau, are treated in restaurants when they are and aren't recognized. If she's recognized from her stint on Top Chef and Anthony Bourdain's \u003ca href=\"http://sfist.com/2015/10/14/eat_exactly_as_anthony_bourdain_did.php\" target=\"_blank\">Parts Unknown\u003c/a> food and travel show, they get the industry hotshot treatment; if not, they've been ignored by bartenders and slighted by hostesses. \"When \u003ca href=\"http://blacklivesmatter.com/category/alicia-garza/\" target=\"_blank\">Alicia Garza\u003c/a>, a co-founder of the Black Lives Matter movement, comes in, we treat her like a rock star,\" Mistry said. Part of running her own restaurant is the freedom to speak out for causes and issues she and Nadeau feel strongly about, and to create a workplace that reflects the diversity of Oakland, where she and Nadeau work and live. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The tides are changing, both in race and gender,\" Mistry said. \"People are used to seeing brown people in the kitchen. We'd like to have an equal diversity in the front of the house.\" \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "An Unlikely Duo Brings LocoL Fast Food and Jobs to Youth in Oakland",
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"content": "\u003cp>What happens when celebrity chef Roy Choi, of Kogi BBQ truck fame, and chef of the Michelin-starred Coi restaurant Daniel Patterson, team up for a “revolutionary fast food” joint?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.welocol.com/\" target=\"_blank\">LocoL\u003c/a> is their healthy and affordable restaurant concept. Their first storefront opened in Watts earlier this year, and they opened an Oakland location last week in Uptown, a business district just north of downtown and a few blocks from public transit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Choi is most well-known for his Kogi tacos, a Korean-Mexican mashup. He’s since expanded to other restaurants including Chego, Alibi Room, A-Frame, Pot and Line Hotel. Patterson is a Bay Area chef whose restaurants include the two Michelin-starred Coi in San Francisco and Haven and Plum Bar in Oakland.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_109837\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/20160525_LocoLOakland_Roy-speaking-during-Team-Meeting_AudreyMa-1488-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"Roy Choi.\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" class=\"size-full wp-image-109837\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/20160525_LocoLOakland_Roy-speaking-during-Team-Meeting_AudreyMa-1488-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/20160525_LocoLOakland_Roy-speaking-during-Team-Meeting_AudreyMa-1488-1024x683-400x267.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/20160525_LocoLOakland_Roy-speaking-during-Team-Meeting_AudreyMa-1488-1024x683-800x534.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/20160525_LocoLOakland_Roy-speaking-during-Team-Meeting_AudreyMa-1488-1024x683-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/20160525_LocoLOakland_Roy-speaking-during-Team-Meeting_AudreyMa-1488-1024x683-960x640.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Roy Choi. \u003ccite>(Audrey Ma)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Two years ago, Patterson attended the MAD Food Symposium in Copenhagen, Denmark where \u003ca href=\"https://vimeo.com/75204171\" target=\"_blank\">Choi gave a talk about hunger\u003c/a> (“A Gateway to Feed Hunger: The Promise of Street Food). Patterson already had the idea of bringing healthy fast food options to neighborhoods dominated by liquor stores, where healthy food was scarce. “I thought, man, it would be great if there was a fast food restaurant that could serve real food to create taste memories for kids, but I didn’t know how I could do that, and I knew I couldn’t do it by myself,” Patterson said in an interview, sitting outside the Oakland LocoL store on opening day. “I knew that he was the guy to do this with.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Patterson approached Choi and told him about his idea, and Choi was on board. Patterson flew down to Los Angeles and had lunch with Choi, “and that was that.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Before LocoL, both chefs started nonprofits focused on teaching urban youth how to cook. Patterson founded The Cooking Project and Choi had 3 Worlds Café in L.A., which is funded by Dole. “Kids are just so excited to be exposed to things,” Patterson said. “You give them something good, their eyes light up. In a way, that’s what LocoL’s about too.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Their work with youth is intentional. Though their first Oakland location is in a busy intersection off of Broadway Avenue—not exactly a food desert—all of their staff are from East Oakland, according to Patterson. Bringing jobs to impoverished neighborhoods has become a key component to their vision.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“The Bay Area is very wealthy, and everyone thinks that everyone’s got a job,” Patterson said. “The fact is, there are a lot of people who don’t have jobs, a lot of people are hungry, and don’t have money. We’re trying to connect the community to jobs.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_109834\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/20160525_LocoLOakland_Cashier_AudreyMa-1421-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"An Oakland LocoL cashier.\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" class=\"size-full wp-image-109834\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/20160525_LocoLOakland_Cashier_AudreyMa-1421-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/20160525_LocoLOakland_Cashier_AudreyMa-1421-1024x683-400x267.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/20160525_LocoLOakland_Cashier_AudreyMa-1421-1024x683-800x534.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/20160525_LocoLOakland_Cashier_AudreyMa-1421-1024x683-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/20160525_LocoLOakland_Cashier_AudreyMa-1421-1024x683-960x640.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">An Oakland LocoL cashier. \u003ccite>(Audrey Ma)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>On opening day, the staff were friendly, smiling, and excited. Employees from the Watts restaurant had driven up from L.A. to be a part of their sister restaurant’s opening day. All together, they brought a level of energy not felt in most food establishments in the area. LocoL hired rapper and community organizer Bambu De Pistola to do some of the outreach to youth in East and West Oakland. “It’s not so much bringing our message to them, but to bring their message to us, talk to them, tell them we’re coming and ask them what they think,” Patterson said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Both Chefs Patterson and Choi have the confidence, following, and financial backing to keep LocoL going, especially in areas like Oakland where rent is going up. They turned the former Plum Restaurant space into LocoL, next to the current Plum Bar. They are leasing the space, but didn’t seem too concerned about the rising rent in the Bay Area that’s pushed out many local restaurants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I asked them what would happen once a lease is up and if the rent increases exponentially, Choy said: “If it does, it doesn’t matter because the brand exists. When that happens, we’ll cross that bridge if we have to. Hopefully, the brand will be so strong it will rejuvenate the brand rather than hurt it.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Choi, his experience with Kogi made LocoL possible. “I would never be able to interact with the public if I didn’t have Kogi. It was the pathway to be able to cook for thousands of people on the street, to connect virally to the public, and become kind of a cultural imprint on their lives. That definitely prepared me for this as we built a brand.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As for developing what they’re feeding folks—it came down to similar palates and mutual respect between the two chefs. What’s unusual is two seemingly disparate chefs, joining forces to create a fast food menu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_109833\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/20160525_LocoLOakland_Brekkie-Egg-in-the-Hole-French-Toast-Holes-Yogurt-and-Granola-Fresh-Fruit-Hot-Coffee-Green-Juice_AudreyMa-1745-1024x936.jpg\" alt=\"Brekkie Egg in the Hole, French Toast Holes, Yogurt and Granola, Fresh Fruit, Coffee, and Green Juice.\" width=\"1024\" height=\"936\" class=\"size-full wp-image-109833\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/20160525_LocoLOakland_Brekkie-Egg-in-the-Hole-French-Toast-Holes-Yogurt-and-Granola-Fresh-Fruit-Hot-Coffee-Green-Juice_AudreyMa-1745-1024x936.jpg 1024w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/20160525_LocoLOakland_Brekkie-Egg-in-the-Hole-French-Toast-Holes-Yogurt-and-Granola-Fresh-Fruit-Hot-Coffee-Green-Juice_AudreyMa-1745-1024x936-400x366.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/20160525_LocoLOakland_Brekkie-Egg-in-the-Hole-French-Toast-Holes-Yogurt-and-Granola-Fresh-Fruit-Hot-Coffee-Green-Juice_AudreyMa-1745-1024x936-800x731.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/20160525_LocoLOakland_Brekkie-Egg-in-the-Hole-French-Toast-Holes-Yogurt-and-Granola-Fresh-Fruit-Hot-Coffee-Green-Juice_AudreyMa-1745-1024x936-768x702.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/20160525_LocoLOakland_Brekkie-Egg-in-the-Hole-French-Toast-Holes-Yogurt-and-Granola-Fresh-Fruit-Hot-Coffee-Green-Juice_AudreyMa-1745-1024x936-960x878.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Brekkie Egg in the Hole, French Toast Holes, Yogurt and Granola, Fresh Fruit, Coffee, and Green Juice. \u003ccite>(Audrey Ma)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“We knew we wanted fast food, so automatically, we asked, ‘What is the anchor?’ Burgers. From there, it easily led to other things,” Choi said. They have their “burg” section of the menu, including a burg, veggie burg, and chicken burg. They have foldies, a quesadilla-like item, for $3. They have “brekkie” sandwiches like egg in the hole and French toast holes. Burgs are $5 as are breakfast sandwiches. Coffee, iced of hot, and agua frescas, are $2. Nothing is over $7. The Uptown Oakland menu items are $1 more than the Watts store due to the location. They plan to open another in East Oakland, and prices there will be comparable to the restaurant in Watts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The two chefs easily gave props to each other when they started talking about their cooking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We have a palate that’s very similar in a lot of ways in terms of how we use herbs and spices and acidity and what we like,” Patterson said. “For me, when I tasted Roy’s food, I knew we’d work well together. Because that’s the thing about chefs, you can say whatever you want, but the truth is in the food.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Likewise, when I ate at Coi for the first time, I just knew we’d be able to cook together very well,” Choi said about the partnership. “Even though we’re cooking totally different food. You see it in music too, two totally different musicians, but if they connect, they connect. Like Bon Iver and Kanye. They seem different, but you can connect.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The LocoL founders will be busy in the coming years. They plan to open several more locations in the upcoming year, including one in East Oakland, a commissary in West Oakland, one in the Tenderloin and another one in L.A. In the future, they want to expand Newark, Detroit, Atlanta, D.C., Ferguson, Chicago, Philadelphia and beyond.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the end, it comes back to the basics—feeding people. “I’m a cook,” Patterson said. “There’s a lot of people that no one’s feeding. Not just in terms of nutrition, but emotionally and spiritually—we’ve kind of taken a lot of communities in our country and taken everything away.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_109835\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/20160525_LocoLOakland_Daniel-Patterson-in-Kitchen_AudreyMa-1369-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"Daniel Patterson in the kitchen of Oakland’s first LocoL. \" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" class=\"size-full wp-image-109835\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/20160525_LocoLOakland_Daniel-Patterson-in-Kitchen_AudreyMa-1369-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/20160525_LocoLOakland_Daniel-Patterson-in-Kitchen_AudreyMa-1369-1024x683-400x267.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/20160525_LocoLOakland_Daniel-Patterson-in-Kitchen_AudreyMa-1369-1024x683-800x534.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/20160525_LocoLOakland_Daniel-Patterson-in-Kitchen_AudreyMa-1369-1024x683-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/20160525_LocoLOakland_Daniel-Patterson-in-Kitchen_AudreyMa-1369-1024x683-960x640.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Daniel Patterson in the kitchen of Oakland’s first LocoL. \u003ccite>(Audrey Ma)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>CAAM Board Member Hanson Li is Founder and Managing Partner at Salt Partners Group, a food and beverage investment and holding company that co-founded LocoL.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>What happens when celebrity chef Roy Choi, of Kogi BBQ truck fame, and chef of the Michelin-starred Coi restaurant Daniel Patterson, team up for a “revolutionary fast food” joint?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.welocol.com/\" target=\"_blank\">LocoL\u003c/a> is their healthy and affordable restaurant concept. Their first storefront opened in Watts earlier this year, and they opened an Oakland location last week in Uptown, a business district just north of downtown and a few blocks from public transit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Choi is most well-known for his Kogi tacos, a Korean-Mexican mashup. He’s since expanded to other restaurants including Chego, Alibi Room, A-Frame, Pot and Line Hotel. Patterson is a Bay Area chef whose restaurants include the two Michelin-starred Coi in San Francisco and Haven and Plum Bar in Oakland.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_109837\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/20160525_LocoLOakland_Roy-speaking-during-Team-Meeting_AudreyMa-1488-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"Roy Choi.\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" class=\"size-full wp-image-109837\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/20160525_LocoLOakland_Roy-speaking-during-Team-Meeting_AudreyMa-1488-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/20160525_LocoLOakland_Roy-speaking-during-Team-Meeting_AudreyMa-1488-1024x683-400x267.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/20160525_LocoLOakland_Roy-speaking-during-Team-Meeting_AudreyMa-1488-1024x683-800x534.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/20160525_LocoLOakland_Roy-speaking-during-Team-Meeting_AudreyMa-1488-1024x683-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/20160525_LocoLOakland_Roy-speaking-during-Team-Meeting_AudreyMa-1488-1024x683-960x640.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Roy Choi. \u003ccite>(Audrey Ma)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Two years ago, Patterson attended the MAD Food Symposium in Copenhagen, Denmark where \u003ca href=\"https://vimeo.com/75204171\" target=\"_blank\">Choi gave a talk about hunger\u003c/a> (“A Gateway to Feed Hunger: The Promise of Street Food). Patterson already had the idea of bringing healthy fast food options to neighborhoods dominated by liquor stores, where healthy food was scarce. “I thought, man, it would be great if there was a fast food restaurant that could serve real food to create taste memories for kids, but I didn’t know how I could do that, and I knew I couldn’t do it by myself,” Patterson said in an interview, sitting outside the Oakland LocoL store on opening day. “I knew that he was the guy to do this with.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Patterson approached Choi and told him about his idea, and Choi was on board. Patterson flew down to Los Angeles and had lunch with Choi, “and that was that.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Before LocoL, both chefs started nonprofits focused on teaching urban youth how to cook. Patterson founded The Cooking Project and Choi had 3 Worlds Café in L.A., which is funded by Dole. “Kids are just so excited to be exposed to things,” Patterson said. “You give them something good, their eyes light up. In a way, that’s what LocoL’s about too.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Their work with youth is intentional. Though their first Oakland location is in a busy intersection off of Broadway Avenue—not exactly a food desert—all of their staff are from East Oakland, according to Patterson. Bringing jobs to impoverished neighborhoods has become a key component to their vision.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“The Bay Area is very wealthy, and everyone thinks that everyone’s got a job,” Patterson said. “The fact is, there are a lot of people who don’t have jobs, a lot of people are hungry, and don’t have money. We’re trying to connect the community to jobs.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_109834\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/20160525_LocoLOakland_Cashier_AudreyMa-1421-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"An Oakland LocoL cashier.\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" class=\"size-full wp-image-109834\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/20160525_LocoLOakland_Cashier_AudreyMa-1421-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/20160525_LocoLOakland_Cashier_AudreyMa-1421-1024x683-400x267.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/20160525_LocoLOakland_Cashier_AudreyMa-1421-1024x683-800x534.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/20160525_LocoLOakland_Cashier_AudreyMa-1421-1024x683-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/20160525_LocoLOakland_Cashier_AudreyMa-1421-1024x683-960x640.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">An Oakland LocoL cashier. \u003ccite>(Audrey Ma)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>On opening day, the staff were friendly, smiling, and excited. Employees from the Watts restaurant had driven up from L.A. to be a part of their sister restaurant’s opening day. All together, they brought a level of energy not felt in most food establishments in the area. LocoL hired rapper and community organizer Bambu De Pistola to do some of the outreach to youth in East and West Oakland. “It’s not so much bringing our message to them, but to bring their message to us, talk to them, tell them we’re coming and ask them what they think,” Patterson said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Both Chefs Patterson and Choi have the confidence, following, and financial backing to keep LocoL going, especially in areas like Oakland where rent is going up. They turned the former Plum Restaurant space into LocoL, next to the current Plum Bar. They are leasing the space, but didn’t seem too concerned about the rising rent in the Bay Area that’s pushed out many local restaurants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I asked them what would happen once a lease is up and if the rent increases exponentially, Choy said: “If it does, it doesn’t matter because the brand exists. When that happens, we’ll cross that bridge if we have to. Hopefully, the brand will be so strong it will rejuvenate the brand rather than hurt it.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Choi, his experience with Kogi made LocoL possible. “I would never be able to interact with the public if I didn’t have Kogi. It was the pathway to be able to cook for thousands of people on the street, to connect virally to the public, and become kind of a cultural imprint on their lives. That definitely prepared me for this as we built a brand.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As for developing what they’re feeding folks—it came down to similar palates and mutual respect between the two chefs. What’s unusual is two seemingly disparate chefs, joining forces to create a fast food menu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_109833\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/20160525_LocoLOakland_Brekkie-Egg-in-the-Hole-French-Toast-Holes-Yogurt-and-Granola-Fresh-Fruit-Hot-Coffee-Green-Juice_AudreyMa-1745-1024x936.jpg\" alt=\"Brekkie Egg in the Hole, French Toast Holes, Yogurt and Granola, Fresh Fruit, Coffee, and Green Juice.\" width=\"1024\" height=\"936\" class=\"size-full wp-image-109833\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/20160525_LocoLOakland_Brekkie-Egg-in-the-Hole-French-Toast-Holes-Yogurt-and-Granola-Fresh-Fruit-Hot-Coffee-Green-Juice_AudreyMa-1745-1024x936.jpg 1024w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/20160525_LocoLOakland_Brekkie-Egg-in-the-Hole-French-Toast-Holes-Yogurt-and-Granola-Fresh-Fruit-Hot-Coffee-Green-Juice_AudreyMa-1745-1024x936-400x366.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/20160525_LocoLOakland_Brekkie-Egg-in-the-Hole-French-Toast-Holes-Yogurt-and-Granola-Fresh-Fruit-Hot-Coffee-Green-Juice_AudreyMa-1745-1024x936-800x731.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/20160525_LocoLOakland_Brekkie-Egg-in-the-Hole-French-Toast-Holes-Yogurt-and-Granola-Fresh-Fruit-Hot-Coffee-Green-Juice_AudreyMa-1745-1024x936-768x702.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/20160525_LocoLOakland_Brekkie-Egg-in-the-Hole-French-Toast-Holes-Yogurt-and-Granola-Fresh-Fruit-Hot-Coffee-Green-Juice_AudreyMa-1745-1024x936-960x878.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Brekkie Egg in the Hole, French Toast Holes, Yogurt and Granola, Fresh Fruit, Coffee, and Green Juice. \u003ccite>(Audrey Ma)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“We knew we wanted fast food, so automatically, we asked, ‘What is the anchor?’ Burgers. From there, it easily led to other things,” Choi said. They have their “burg” section of the menu, including a burg, veggie burg, and chicken burg. They have foldies, a quesadilla-like item, for $3. They have “brekkie” sandwiches like egg in the hole and French toast holes. Burgs are $5 as are breakfast sandwiches. Coffee, iced of hot, and agua frescas, are $2. Nothing is over $7. The Uptown Oakland menu items are $1 more than the Watts store due to the location. They plan to open another in East Oakland, and prices there will be comparable to the restaurant in Watts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The two chefs easily gave props to each other when they started talking about their cooking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We have a palate that’s very similar in a lot of ways in terms of how we use herbs and spices and acidity and what we like,” Patterson said. “For me, when I tasted Roy’s food, I knew we’d work well together. Because that’s the thing about chefs, you can say whatever you want, but the truth is in the food.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Likewise, when I ate at Coi for the first time, I just knew we’d be able to cook together very well,” Choi said about the partnership. “Even though we’re cooking totally different food. You see it in music too, two totally different musicians, but if they connect, they connect. Like Bon Iver and Kanye. They seem different, but you can connect.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The LocoL founders will be busy in the coming years. They plan to open several more locations in the upcoming year, including one in East Oakland, a commissary in West Oakland, one in the Tenderloin and another one in L.A. In the future, they want to expand Newark, Detroit, Atlanta, D.C., Ferguson, Chicago, Philadelphia and beyond.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the end, it comes back to the basics—feeding people. “I’m a cook,” Patterson said. “There’s a lot of people that no one’s feeding. Not just in terms of nutrition, but emotionally and spiritually—we’ve kind of taken a lot of communities in our country and taken everything away.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_109835\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/20160525_LocoLOakland_Daniel-Patterson-in-Kitchen_AudreyMa-1369-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"Daniel Patterson in the kitchen of Oakland’s first LocoL. \" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" class=\"size-full wp-image-109835\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/20160525_LocoLOakland_Daniel-Patterson-in-Kitchen_AudreyMa-1369-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/20160525_LocoLOakland_Daniel-Patterson-in-Kitchen_AudreyMa-1369-1024x683-400x267.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/20160525_LocoLOakland_Daniel-Patterson-in-Kitchen_AudreyMa-1369-1024x683-800x534.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/20160525_LocoLOakland_Daniel-Patterson-in-Kitchen_AudreyMa-1369-1024x683-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/20160525_LocoLOakland_Daniel-Patterson-in-Kitchen_AudreyMa-1369-1024x683-960x640.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Daniel Patterson in the kitchen of Oakland’s first LocoL. \u003ccite>(Audrey Ma)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>CAAM Board Member Hanson Li is Founder and Managing Partner at Salt Partners Group, a food and beverage investment and holding company that co-founded LocoL.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"id": "commonwealth-club",
"title": "Commonwealth Club of California Podcast",
"info": "The Commonwealth Club of California is the nation's oldest and largest public affairs forum. As a non-partisan forum, The Club brings to the public airwaves diverse viewpoints on important topics. The Club's weekly radio broadcast - the oldest in the U.S., dating back to 1924 - is carried across the nation on public radio stations and is now podcasting. Our website archive features audio of our recent programs, as well as selected speeches from our long and distinguished history. This podcast feed is usually updated twice a week and is always un-edited.",
"airtime": "THU 10pm, FRI 1am",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Commonwealth-Club-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
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"meta": {
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"source": "Commonwealth Club of California"
},
"link": "/radio/program/commonwealth-club",
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cDovL3d3dy5jb21tb253ZWFsdGhjbHViLm9yZy9hdWRpby9wb2RjYXN0L3dlZWtseS54bWw",
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},
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"id": "forum",
"title": "Forum",
"tagline": "The conversation starts here",
"info": "KQED’s live call-in program discussing local, state, national and international issues, as well as in-depth interviews.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 9am-11am, 10pm-11pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Forum-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
"imageAlt": "KQED Forum with Mina Kim and Alexis Madrigal",
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"order": 9
},
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"id": "freakonomics-radio",
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"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/05/freakonomicsRadio.png",
"officialWebsiteLink": "http://freakonomics.com/",
"airtime": "SUN 1am-2am, SAT 3pm-4pm",
"meta": {
"site": "radio",
"source": "WNYC"
},
"link": "/radio/program/freakonomics-radio",
"subscribe": {
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/freakonomics-radio/id354668519",
"tuneIn": "https://tunein.com/podcasts/WNYC-Podcasts/Freakonomics-Radio-p272293/",
"rss": "https://feeds.feedburner.com/freakonomicsradio"
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},
"fresh-air": {
"id": "fresh-air",
"title": "Fresh Air",
"info": "Hosted by Terry Gross, \u003cem>Fresh Air from WHYY\u003c/em> is the Peabody Award-winning weekday magazine of contemporary arts and issues. One of public radio's most popular programs, Fresh Air features intimate conversations with today's biggest luminaries.",
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=214089682&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory",
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"rss": "https://feeds.npr.org/381444908/podcast.xml"
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"info": "A live production of NPR and WBUR Boston, in collaboration with stations across the country, Here & Now reflects the fluid world of news as it's happening in the middle of the day, with timely, in-depth news, interviews and conversation. Hosted by Robin Young, Jeremy Hobson and Tonya Mosley.",
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"rss": "https://feeds.npr.org/510051/podcast.xml"
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},
"hidden-brain": {
"id": "hidden-brain",
"title": "Hidden Brain",
"info": "Shankar Vedantam uses science and storytelling to reveal the unconscious patterns that drive human behavior, shape our choices and direct our relationships.",
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"airtime": "SUN 7pm-8pm",
"meta": {
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"source": "NPR"
},
"link": "/radio/program/hidden-brain",
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},
"how-i-built-this": {
"id": "how-i-built-this",
"title": "How I Built This with Guy Raz",
"info": "Guy Raz dives into the stories behind some of the world's best known companies. How I Built This weaves a narrative journey about innovators, entrepreneurs and idealists—and the movements they built.",
"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/05/howIBuiltThis.png",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.npr.org/podcasts/510313/how-i-built-this",
"airtime": "SUN 7:30pm-8pm",
"meta": {
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},
"link": "/radio/program/how-i-built-this",
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"npr": "https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/3zxy",
"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/how-i-built-this-with-guy-raz/id1150510297?mt=2",
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},
"hyphenacion": {
"id": "hyphenacion",
"title": "Hyphenación",
"tagline": "Where conversation and cultura meet",
"info": "What kind of no sabo word is Hyphenación? For us, it’s about living within a hyphenation. Like being a third-gen Mexican-American from the Texas border now living that Bay Area Chicano life. Like Xorje! Each week we bring together a couple of hyphenated Latinos to talk all about personal life choices: family, careers, relationships, belonging … everything is on the table. ",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2025/03/Hyphenacion_FinalAssets_PodcastTile.png",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "/podcasts/hyphenacion",
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"order": 15
},
"link": "/podcasts/hyphenacion",
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"spotify": "https://open.spotify.com/show/2p3Fifq96nw9BPcmFdIq0o?si=39209f7b25774f38",
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},
"jerrybrown": {
"id": "jerrybrown",
"title": "The Political Mind of Jerry Brown",
"tagline": "Lessons from a lifetime in politics",
"info": "The Political Mind of Jerry Brown brings listeners the wisdom of the former Governor, Mayor, and presidential candidate. Scott Shafer interviewed Brown for more than 40 hours, covering the former governor's life and half-century in the political game – and Brown has some lessons he'd like to share. ",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/The-Political-Mind-of-Jerry-Brown-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "/podcasts/jerrybrown",
"meta": {
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"order": 18
},
"link": "/podcasts/jerrybrown",
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}
},
"latino-usa": {
"id": "latino-usa",
"title": "Latino USA",
"airtime": "MON 1am-2am, SUN 6pm-7pm",
"info": "Latino USA, the radio journal of news and culture, is the only national, English-language radio program produced from a Latino perspective.",
"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/latinoUsa.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "http://latinousa.org/",
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},
"link": "/radio/program/latino-usa",
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=79681317&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory",
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"rss": "https://feeds.npr.org/510016/podcast.xml"
}
},
"marketplace": {
"id": "marketplace",
"title": "Marketplace",
"info": "Our flagship program, helmed by Kai Ryssdal, examines what the day in money delivered, through stories, conversations, newsworthy numbers and more. Updated Monday through Friday at about 3:30 p.m. PT.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 4pm-4:30pm, MON-WED 6:30pm-7pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Marketplace-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.marketplace.org/",
"meta": {
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"source": "American Public Media"
},
"link": "/radio/program/marketplace",
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"rss": "https://feeds.publicradio.org/public_feeds/marketplace-pm/rss/rss"
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},
"masters-of-scale": {
"id": "masters-of-scale",
"title": "Masters of Scale",
"info": "Masters of Scale is an original podcast in which LinkedIn co-founder and Greylock Partner Reid Hoffman sets out to describe and prove theories that explain how great entrepreneurs take their companies from zero to a gazillion in ingenious fashion.",
"airtime": "Every other Wednesday June 12 through October 16 at 8pm (repeats Thursdays at 2am)",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Masters-of-Scale-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://mastersofscale.com/",
"meta": {
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"source": "WaitWhat"
},
"link": "/radio/program/masters-of-scale",
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"apple": "http://mastersofscale.app.link/",
"rss": "https://rss.art19.com/masters-of-scale"
}
},
"mindshift": {
"id": "mindshift",
"title": "MindShift",
"tagline": "A podcast about the future of learning and how we raise our kids",
"info": "The MindShift podcast explores the innovations in education that are shaping how kids learn. Hosts Ki Sung and Katrina Schwartz introduce listeners to educators, researchers, parents and students who are developing effective ways to improve how kids learn. We cover topics like how fed-up administrators are developing surprising tactics to deal with classroom disruptions; how listening to podcasts are helping kids develop reading skills; the consequences of overparenting; and why interdisciplinary learning can engage students on all ends of the traditional achievement spectrum. This podcast is part of the MindShift education site, a division of KQED News. KQED is an NPR/PBS member station based in San Francisco. You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Mindshift-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
"imageAlt": "KQED MindShift: How We Will Learn",
"officialWebsiteLink": "/mindshift/",
"meta": {
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"source": "kqed",
"order": 12
},
"link": "/podcasts/mindshift",
"subscribe": {
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM1NzY0NjAwNDI5",
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}
},
"morning-edition": {
"id": "morning-edition",
"title": "Morning Edition",
"info": "\u003cem>Morning Edition\u003c/em> takes listeners around the country and the world with multi-faceted stories and commentaries every weekday. Hosts Steve Inskeep, David Greene and Rachel Martin bring you the latest breaking news and features to prepare you for the day.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 3am-9am",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Morning-Edition-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.npr.org/programs/morning-edition/",
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"link": "/radio/program/morning-edition"
},
"onourwatch": {
"id": "onourwatch",
"title": "On Our Watch",
"tagline": "Deeply-reported investigative journalism",
"info": "For decades, the process for how police police themselves has been inconsistent – if not opaque. In some states, like California, these proceedings were completely hidden. After a new police transparency law unsealed scores of internal affairs files, our reporters set out to examine these cases and the shadow world of police discipline. On Our Watch brings listeners into the rooms where officers are questioned and witnesses are interrogated to find out who this system is really protecting. Is it the officers, or the public they've sworn to serve?",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/On-Our-Watch-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
"imageAlt": "On Our Watch from NPR and KQED",
"officialWebsiteLink": "/podcasts/onourwatch",
"meta": {
"site": "news",
"source": "kqed",
"order": 11
},
"link": "/podcasts/onourwatch",
"subscribe": {
"apple": "https://podcasts.apple.com/podcast/id1567098962",
"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5ucHIub3JnLzUxMDM2MC9wb2RjYXN0LnhtbD9zYz1nb29nbGVwb2RjYXN0cw",
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"rss": "https://feeds.npr.org/510360/podcast.xml"
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},
"on-the-media": {
"id": "on-the-media",
"title": "On The Media",
"info": "Our weekly podcast explores how the media 'sausage' is made, casts an incisive eye on fluctuations in the marketplace of ideas, and examines threats to the freedom of information and expression in America and abroad. For one hour a week, the show tries to lift the veil from the process of \"making media,\" especially news media, because it's through that lens that we see the world and the world sees us",
"airtime": "SUN 2pm-3pm, MON 12am-1am",
"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/onTheMedia.png",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.wnycstudios.org/shows/otm",
"meta": {
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"source": "wnyc"
},
"link": "/radio/program/on-the-media",
"subscribe": {
"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/on-the-media/id73330715?mt=2",
"tuneIn": "https://tunein.com/radio/On-the-Media-p69/",
"rss": "http://feeds.wnyc.org/onthemedia"
}
},
"pbs-newshour": {
"id": "pbs-newshour",
"title": "PBS NewsHour",
"info": "Analysis, background reports and updates from the PBS NewsHour putting today's news in context.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 3pm-4pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/PBS-News-Hour-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.pbs.org/newshour/",
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"source": "pbs"
},
"link": "/radio/program/pbs-newshour",
"subscribe": {
"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/pbs-newshour-full-show/id394432287?mt=2",
"tuneIn": "https://tunein.com/radio/PBS-NewsHour---Full-Show-p425698/",
"rss": "https://www.pbs.org/newshour/feeds/rss/podcasts/show"
}
},
"perspectives": {
"id": "perspectives",
"title": "Perspectives",
"tagline": "KQED's series of daily listener commentaries since 1991",
"info": "KQED's series of daily listener commentaries since 1991.",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2025/01/Perspectives_Tile_Final.jpg",
"imageAlt": "KQED Perspectives",
"officialWebsiteLink": "/perspectives/",
"meta": {
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"source": "kqed",
"order": 14
},
"link": "/perspectives",
"subscribe": {
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"npr": "https://www.npr.org/podcasts/432309616/perspectives",
"rss": "https://ww2.kqed.org/perspectives/category/perspectives/feed/",
"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly93dzIua3FlZC5vcmcvcGVyc3BlY3RpdmVzL2NhdGVnb3J5L3BlcnNwZWN0aXZlcy9mZWVkLw"
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},
"planet-money": {
"id": "planet-money",
"title": "Planet Money",
"info": "The economy explained. Imagine you could call up a friend and say, Meet me at the bar and tell me what's going on with the economy. Now imagine that's actually a fun evening.",
"airtime": "SUN 3pm-4pm",
"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/planetmoney.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.npr.org/sections/money/",
"meta": {
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"source": "npr"
},
"link": "/radio/program/planet-money",
"subscribe": {
"npr": "https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/M4f5",
"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/planet-money/id290783428?mt=2",
"tuneIn": "https://tunein.com/podcasts/Business--Economics-Podcasts/Planet-Money-p164680/",
"rss": "https://feeds.npr.org/510289/podcast.xml"
}
},
"politicalbreakdown": {
"id": "politicalbreakdown",
"title": "Political Breakdown",
"tagline": "Politics from a personal perspective",
"info": "Political Breakdown is a new series that explores the political intersection of California and the nation. Each week hosts Scott Shafer and Marisa Lagos are joined with a new special guest to unpack politics -- with personality — and offer an insider’s glimpse at how politics happens.",
"airtime": "THU 6:30pm-7pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Political-Breakdown-2024-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
"imageAlt": "KQED Political Breakdown",
"officialWebsiteLink": "/podcasts/politicalbreakdown",
"meta": {
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"source": "kqed",
"order": 5
},
"link": "/podcasts/politicalbreakdown",
"subscribe": {
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"amazon": "https://music.amazon.com/podcasts/e0c2d153-ad36-4c8d-901d-f1da6a724824/political-breakdown",
"npr": "https://www.npr.org/podcasts/572155894/political-breakdown",
"stitcher": "https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/kqed/political-breakdown",
"spotify": "https://open.spotify.com/show/07RVyIjIdk2WDuVehvBMoN",
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