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"disqusTitle": "Yummy Supper: 100 Fresh, Luscious & Honest Recipes from a {Gluten-Free} Omnivore ",
"title": "Yummy Supper: 100 Fresh, Luscious & Honest Recipes from a {Gluten-Free} Omnivore ",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/08/erinscott_yummysupper_BAB_bookcover-.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/08/erinscott_yummysupper_BAB_bookcover-.jpg\" alt=\"Yummy Supper by Erin Scott\" width=\"500\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-86268\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's mid-August and the summer produce is rolling in strong, a perfect time for the release of Erin Scott’s first cookbook, \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Yummy-Supper-Luscious-Gluten-Free-Omnivore/dp/1609615441\">\u003cstrong>Yummy Supper: 100 Fresh, Luscious & Honest Recipes from a {Gluten-Free} Omnivore\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>. Erin is a food photographer and writer who runs an award-winning blog (also called \u003ca href=\"http://yummysupper.blogspot.com/\">Yummy Supper\u003c/a>) from her home in Berkeley where she lives with her husband and two children. Erin’s work celebrates the abundance of Bay Area food with such generosity and exuberance that it’s easy to forget the other important fact about \u003cstrong>Yummy Supper\u003c/strong>, one that you will find tucked away in curly brackets in the subtitle: all the recipes are \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gluten-free_diet\">gluten-free\u003c/a>, or can be made gluten-free with a few basic, easy to find substitutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The curly brackets are important because they highlight the mission of the book: to make delicious, fun, celebratory food that just happens to be gluten-free. Erin was diagnosed six years ago with \u003ca href=\"http://celiac.org/\">celiac disease\u003c/a> but she isn’t interested in separating out the gluten-free eaters from everyone else. “I want \u003cstrong>Yummy Supper\u003c/strong> to feel inclusive,” she said when we spoke on the phone. “When I was first diagnosed, I felt excluded from all the joy and pleasure around food, especially living in the Bay Area. I felt like I had to live in my sad corner away from everyone else.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_86267\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/08/erinscott_yummysupper_BAB_authorphoto-8244.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/08/erinscott_yummysupper_BAB_authorphoto-8244.jpg\" alt=\"Author Erin Scott. Photo: Erin Scott\" width=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-86267\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Author Erin Scott. Photo: Erin Scott\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>“I’m not a picky eater. Before my diagnosis, I would have never had a conversation with a waiter about what I could eat. I would just order food and eat it. So I wanted my cooking at home and the cooking I shared with people to feel like there's no worry, there's no fear, there's no separating. Let's just eat together. Let's eat really good delicious food together and not focus on the limitations.”\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Yummy Supper\u003c/strong> fulfills Erin’s wishes by offering 100 delicious-sounding, easy to follow recipes. The book is divided into 10 sections: \"Slurp\" (beverages), \"Egg,\" \"Veg,\" \"Sea,\" \"Butcher Shop,\" \"Grain and Seed,\" \"Nut,\" \"Fruit,\" \"Kid Favorites,\" and a final \"Odds and Ends\" for salad dressings, a pot of beans, and an uncomplicated GF flaky pastry dough. There is truly something here for everyone, from the simple \u003cem>Watercress Salad with Balsamic Cherries\u003c/em> to the more complex \u003cem>Pistachio Kebabs on Rosemary Skewers\u003c/em> made with ground lamb, cumin and pistachios to a delightfully refreshing \u003cem>Honeydew Granita with Lemon Verbena and Lime\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_86270\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/08/erinscott_yummysupper_BAB_Honeydewgranita-6686.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/08/erinscott_yummysupper_BAB_Honeydewgranita-6686.jpg\" alt=\"Honeydew Granita with Lemon Verbena and Lime. Photo: Erin Scott\" width=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-86270\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Honeydew Granita with Lemon Verbena and Lime. Photo: Erin Scott\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Erin’s palate is fresh and adventuresome. It reflects and celebrates the flavors of the Bay Area with recipes such as her \u003cem>Bolinas Crab Pasta with Citrus and Mint\u003c/em> or the amazing \u003cem>Candied Tomatoes\u003c/em> which are best made with \u003ca href=\"http://www.happyboyfarms.com/our-produce-category.php?id=47\">dry-farmed Early Girls\u003c/a>, available now at most local farmers' markets. But don’t think you can’t share this book with your GF sister-in-law in New Jersey! Erin is careful to walk that thin line of celebrating our local bounty while making recipes accessible to the wider world, with maybe a minor adjustment here and there. \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>“I really tried to walk that line, to make sure that there were recipes available to people who live in other places. There are so many other incredible foodsheds around the country and around the world where people are embracing their local food treasures. I would love to go to a place like Madison Wisconsin and explore what they've got going on right now. Amazing corn and tomatoes, I would imagine!”\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Yummy Supper\u003c/strong>’s offerings are also influenced by the year Erin and her family spent traveling around the world. There are recipes using black and red rice, a stew from Bali made with chicken and vegetables and topped with fried shallot and cashews, and some intriguing millet crepes inspired by a rental kitchen in New Zealand. Another important thread is family and cooking with children. It’s clear from Erin’s photographs that her son and daughter are no strangers to the kitchen and many of the recipes are introduced with stories of their discoveries and delights in cooking and eating together. Her parents make appearances, too, with mentions of her mother's influential organic garden and a trip to Tijuana with her father to hunt down the original Caesar salad.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Beyond being a collection of fresh, delicious, and inclusive recipes, \u003cstrong>Yummy Supper\u003c/strong> is also a beautiful book. It has a sturdy, satin-smooth soft cover, a good solid binding that lays flat on the counter, and an easy-to-read recipe format. But what’s most standout are the dozens of lush photographs taken by Erin herself, who is also a professional food photographer. In fact, \u003cstrong>Yummy Supper\u003c/strong> the blog grew up around her lifelong love of photography and sharing food. \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>“Photography is something I've dabbled in and I've always been interested in beauty and aesthetics and design but I never went further than that. I was just a very amateur photographer and an amateur home cook. When I started \u003cstrong>Yummy Supper\u003c/strong>, I thought it was important to have a visual element so I started shooting for the blog. My pictures at first were horrible. Horrible! I would just cringe! But I stayed with it and over time they got better. And even today, while I'm still learning, I feel that I'm able to express what I want with the images, which is really wonderful.”\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>[gallery type=\"slideshow\" link=\"file\" ids=\"86266,86273,86272,86271\"]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Yummy Supper\u003c/strong> is 100% Erin’s baby. She didn’t work with an art director or a food and prop stylist to produce her photographs, the team of people usually present on a cookbook photo shoot. \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>“It’s all me. I felt it was the best way to tell my story. I didn't take the normal route and write all of the book first and then do all of the photography in a few rushed weeks at the end. I went through the year developing and honing the recipes and then shooting them as I went along. So I had the luxury of taking the year and going with the seasons.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I actually feel a little vulnerable these days, because I'm realizing that \u003cstrong>Yummy Supper\u003c/strong> is such a heartfelt love project. When I was making it, it was just me in that space but now that the book has come out, I'm beginning to realize that I'm sharing this with everybody. Its a wild thing to put that much of my self into something. Hopefully it will be received in a loving way, too!”\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Any final words?\u003c/strong> \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>“This is not a book only for people with celiac. Gluten-free has become a little polarizing and I don't want people to feel polarized about food. I want them to feel inclusive and expansive. \u003cstrong>Yummy Supper\u003c/strong> offers the kind of food that everybody can enjoy.”\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Erin generously shared her recipe from \u003cstrong>Yummy Supper\u003c/strong> for \u003cem>Candied Tomatoes\u003c/em>. The recipe is a simple method for slow-roasting tomatoes until they are sweet and concentrated but still moist and juicy. The tomatoes can then be popped into the freezer to be used in the darkest winter months for stews, soups, or anywhere the tangy-sweet flavor of a tomato would be appreciated. The recipe was especially developed to use dry-farmed Early Girl tomatoes which can be found in large tumbling mounds all over Bay Area farmers' markets in August and September.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I found this recipe quick and easy to follow. The tomatoes emerged wrinkled and shrunken and bursting with concentrated tomato sweetness. It really feels wonderful to have them tucked away in the freezer for those sad and dreary times when tomatoes aren’t in season.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>A few notes:\u003c/strong> Erin’s line \"I like to sprinkle on a bit of sugar or drizzle with agave nectar to enhance caramelization of the slow roast\" makes this step sound more like a suggestion than a command, so you may hesitate. I recommend doing it, especially if your tomatoes are a little on the acidic side. I found I needed less than the 1.5 tablespoon recommended, however; just a few pinches were enough. Do be careful not to sprinkle too much sugar onto the baking sheet, however, as it is bound to burn in the 4-5 hours the tomatoes are in the oven.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Speaking of ovens, this is one of those recipes where you want to be sure your oven’s temperature is accurate since you really want the roast to be low and slow. Check the tomatoes in the beginning and lower the heat if they seem to be coloring too quickly. Also, if your oven has any hot spots, be sure to rotate the tray to ensure even cooking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Brilliant recipe, Erin! Thank you!\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_86269\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/08/erinscott_yummysupper_BAB_CandiedTomatoes-2565.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/08/erinscott_yummysupper_BAB_CandiedTomatoes-2565.jpg\" alt=\"Candied Tomatoes. Photo: Erin Scott\" width=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-86269\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Candied Tomatoes. Photo: Erin Scott\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: Candied Tomatoes\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>There is nothing like the deep flavor of roasted tomatoes to combat the winter doldrums. You heard me right: I'm talking about tomatoes in winter. This recipe is all about taking advantage of summer produce at its peak and giving us access to summer delights well into the winter months.\t \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you are lucky enough to grow your own tomatoes, this is a perfect way to turn your bounty into an ingredient you can enjoy long after the summer sun has set. If you are like us and love tomatoes but don't grow them yourself, don't despair. When the days are hot and the time is right, go out and buy bags of your favorite local tomatoes. I hit the market in August and September, when our Northern California tomatoes are at their sweetest (and their prices are at their lowest), and I get to work candying dry-farmed Early Girls by the crateful. I toss them into freezer bags, and the juicy roasted tomatoes are ours to savor year-round.\t \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Feel free to double or even quadruple this recipe. You won't be sorry when you have a stash of sweet roasted tomatoes waiting for you in the freezer. See \u003cem>Candied Tomatoes\u003c/em> put to use in these recipes: \u003cem>Pork Ragu\u003c/em> and \u003cem>Cozy Winter Soup with Fennel Sausage, Leeks, White Beans, and Rapini\u003c/em>.\t\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes about 1 1/2 cups\u003c/em>\t \t \u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\t \t \n\u003cli>4 pounds tomatoes (I'm partial to dry-farmed Early Girls--they may not look fancy, but the flavor is unbeatable)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2-4 tablespoons olive oil\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Sea salt\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 1/2 tablespoons sugar or 1 tablespoon light agave nectar\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003col>\n\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\t \t \n\u003cli>Preheat your oven to 250°F.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Slice small or medium tomatoes in half and spread them out, face up, over a large baking sheet. (If you are using huge heirloom tomatoes, cut them into large wedges.) Lightly drizzle the olive oil over the tops of the tomatoes. Sprinkle with salt. I like to sprinkle on a bit of sugar or drizzle on a bit of agave nectar to enhance the caramelization of the slow roast. Slide the baking sheet into the warm oven.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>After 4 to 5 hours of roasting, your tomatoes will be ready. They will have shrunk in size significantly and the flavors will have concentrated. The tops will be caramelized, but the tomatoes will still be nice and juicy.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>If you're like me, you'll need to go ahead and eat some roasted tomatoes right away--they are hard to resist. Maybe make yourself a bowl of roasted tomato pasta with fresh basil, mozzarella, plenty of olive oil, and garlic. Or how about roasted tomato soup?\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Tip:\u003c/strong> To save some Candied Tomatoes, fill a resealable plastic bag or two and store them in your freezer. When you pull them out in deep winter, you'll smile as you taste a bit of summer.\t \t \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Reprinted from \u003cstrong>Yummy Supper\u003c/strong> by Erin Scott. Copyright (c) 2014 by Erin Scott. By permission of Rodale Books. Available wherever books are sold.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Information\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Yummy Supper: 100 Fresh, Luscious & Honest Recipes from a {Gluten-Free} Omnivore\u003c/strong> by Erin Scott can be found at your local Bay Area Bookstore or online at \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Yummy-Supper-Luscious-Gluten-Free-Omnivore/dp/1609615441\">Amazon\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Erin will be doing many \u003cstrong>Yummy Supper\u003c/strong> related events this fall, most notably a free book launch party at The Edible Schoolyard in Berkeley on September 7. Check out the \u003ca href=\"http://yummysupper.blogspot.com/p/book-tour.html\">Book Tour\u003c/a> page on her website for more information.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Award-winning food blogger Erin Scott's first cookbook, Yummy Supper, is collection of 100 lush, beautifully photographed recipes that take full advantage of our Bay Area bounty and oh, by the way, just happen to be gluten-free. This is the cookbook that will feed everyone at your table, in all possible ways.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/08/erinscott_yummysupper_BAB_bookcover-.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/08/erinscott_yummysupper_BAB_bookcover-.jpg\" alt=\"Yummy Supper by Erin Scott\" width=\"500\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-86268\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's mid-August and the summer produce is rolling in strong, a perfect time for the release of Erin Scott’s first cookbook, \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Yummy-Supper-Luscious-Gluten-Free-Omnivore/dp/1609615441\">\u003cstrong>Yummy Supper: 100 Fresh, Luscious & Honest Recipes from a {Gluten-Free} Omnivore\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>. Erin is a food photographer and writer who runs an award-winning blog (also called \u003ca href=\"http://yummysupper.blogspot.com/\">Yummy Supper\u003c/a>) from her home in Berkeley where she lives with her husband and two children. Erin’s work celebrates the abundance of Bay Area food with such generosity and exuberance that it’s easy to forget the other important fact about \u003cstrong>Yummy Supper\u003c/strong>, one that you will find tucked away in curly brackets in the subtitle: all the recipes are \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gluten-free_diet\">gluten-free\u003c/a>, or can be made gluten-free with a few basic, easy to find substitutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The curly brackets are important because they highlight the mission of the book: to make delicious, fun, celebratory food that just happens to be gluten-free. Erin was diagnosed six years ago with \u003ca href=\"http://celiac.org/\">celiac disease\u003c/a> but she isn’t interested in separating out the gluten-free eaters from everyone else. “I want \u003cstrong>Yummy Supper\u003c/strong> to feel inclusive,” she said when we spoke on the phone. “When I was first diagnosed, I felt excluded from all the joy and pleasure around food, especially living in the Bay Area. I felt like I had to live in my sad corner away from everyone else.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_86267\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/08/erinscott_yummysupper_BAB_authorphoto-8244.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/08/erinscott_yummysupper_BAB_authorphoto-8244.jpg\" alt=\"Author Erin Scott. Photo: Erin Scott\" width=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-86267\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Author Erin Scott. Photo: Erin Scott\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>“I’m not a picky eater. Before my diagnosis, I would have never had a conversation with a waiter about what I could eat. I would just order food and eat it. So I wanted my cooking at home and the cooking I shared with people to feel like there's no worry, there's no fear, there's no separating. Let's just eat together. Let's eat really good delicious food together and not focus on the limitations.”\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Yummy Supper\u003c/strong> fulfills Erin’s wishes by offering 100 delicious-sounding, easy to follow recipes. The book is divided into 10 sections: \"Slurp\" (beverages), \"Egg,\" \"Veg,\" \"Sea,\" \"Butcher Shop,\" \"Grain and Seed,\" \"Nut,\" \"Fruit,\" \"Kid Favorites,\" and a final \"Odds and Ends\" for salad dressings, a pot of beans, and an uncomplicated GF flaky pastry dough. There is truly something here for everyone, from the simple \u003cem>Watercress Salad with Balsamic Cherries\u003c/em> to the more complex \u003cem>Pistachio Kebabs on Rosemary Skewers\u003c/em> made with ground lamb, cumin and pistachios to a delightfully refreshing \u003cem>Honeydew Granita with Lemon Verbena and Lime\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_86270\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/08/erinscott_yummysupper_BAB_Honeydewgranita-6686.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/08/erinscott_yummysupper_BAB_Honeydewgranita-6686.jpg\" alt=\"Honeydew Granita with Lemon Verbena and Lime. Photo: Erin Scott\" width=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-86270\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Honeydew Granita with Lemon Verbena and Lime. Photo: Erin Scott\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Erin’s palate is fresh and adventuresome. It reflects and celebrates the flavors of the Bay Area with recipes such as her \u003cem>Bolinas Crab Pasta with Citrus and Mint\u003c/em> or the amazing \u003cem>Candied Tomatoes\u003c/em> which are best made with \u003ca href=\"http://www.happyboyfarms.com/our-produce-category.php?id=47\">dry-farmed Early Girls\u003c/a>, available now at most local farmers' markets. But don’t think you can’t share this book with your GF sister-in-law in New Jersey! Erin is careful to walk that thin line of celebrating our local bounty while making recipes accessible to the wider world, with maybe a minor adjustment here and there. \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>“I really tried to walk that line, to make sure that there were recipes available to people who live in other places. There are so many other incredible foodsheds around the country and around the world where people are embracing their local food treasures. I would love to go to a place like Madison Wisconsin and explore what they've got going on right now. Amazing corn and tomatoes, I would imagine!”\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Yummy Supper\u003c/strong>’s offerings are also influenced by the year Erin and her family spent traveling around the world. There are recipes using black and red rice, a stew from Bali made with chicken and vegetables and topped with fried shallot and cashews, and some intriguing millet crepes inspired by a rental kitchen in New Zealand. Another important thread is family and cooking with children. It’s clear from Erin’s photographs that her son and daughter are no strangers to the kitchen and many of the recipes are introduced with stories of their discoveries and delights in cooking and eating together. Her parents make appearances, too, with mentions of her mother's influential organic garden and a trip to Tijuana with her father to hunt down the original Caesar salad.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Beyond being a collection of fresh, delicious, and inclusive recipes, \u003cstrong>Yummy Supper\u003c/strong> is also a beautiful book. It has a sturdy, satin-smooth soft cover, a good solid binding that lays flat on the counter, and an easy-to-read recipe format. But what’s most standout are the dozens of lush photographs taken by Erin herself, who is also a professional food photographer. In fact, \u003cstrong>Yummy Supper\u003c/strong> the blog grew up around her lifelong love of photography and sharing food. \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>“Photography is something I've dabbled in and I've always been interested in beauty and aesthetics and design but I never went further than that. I was just a very amateur photographer and an amateur home cook. When I started \u003cstrong>Yummy Supper\u003c/strong>, I thought it was important to have a visual element so I started shooting for the blog. My pictures at first were horrible. Horrible! I would just cringe! But I stayed with it and over time they got better. And even today, while I'm still learning, I feel that I'm able to express what I want with the images, which is really wonderful.”\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Yummy Supper\u003c/strong> is 100% Erin’s baby. She didn’t work with an art director or a food and prop stylist to produce her photographs, the team of people usually present on a cookbook photo shoot. \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>“It’s all me. I felt it was the best way to tell my story. I didn't take the normal route and write all of the book first and then do all of the photography in a few rushed weeks at the end. I went through the year developing and honing the recipes and then shooting them as I went along. So I had the luxury of taking the year and going with the seasons.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I actually feel a little vulnerable these days, because I'm realizing that \u003cstrong>Yummy Supper\u003c/strong> is such a heartfelt love project. When I was making it, it was just me in that space but now that the book has come out, I'm beginning to realize that I'm sharing this with everybody. Its a wild thing to put that much of my self into something. Hopefully it will be received in a loving way, too!”\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Any final words?\u003c/strong> \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>“This is not a book only for people with celiac. Gluten-free has become a little polarizing and I don't want people to feel polarized about food. I want them to feel inclusive and expansive. \u003cstrong>Yummy Supper\u003c/strong> offers the kind of food that everybody can enjoy.”\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Erin generously shared her recipe from \u003cstrong>Yummy Supper\u003c/strong> for \u003cem>Candied Tomatoes\u003c/em>. The recipe is a simple method for slow-roasting tomatoes until they are sweet and concentrated but still moist and juicy. The tomatoes can then be popped into the freezer to be used in the darkest winter months for stews, soups, or anywhere the tangy-sweet flavor of a tomato would be appreciated. The recipe was especially developed to use dry-farmed Early Girl tomatoes which can be found in large tumbling mounds all over Bay Area farmers' markets in August and September.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I found this recipe quick and easy to follow. The tomatoes emerged wrinkled and shrunken and bursting with concentrated tomato sweetness. It really feels wonderful to have them tucked away in the freezer for those sad and dreary times when tomatoes aren’t in season.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>A few notes:\u003c/strong> Erin’s line \"I like to sprinkle on a bit of sugar or drizzle with agave nectar to enhance caramelization of the slow roast\" makes this step sound more like a suggestion than a command, so you may hesitate. I recommend doing it, especially if your tomatoes are a little on the acidic side. I found I needed less than the 1.5 tablespoon recommended, however; just a few pinches were enough. Do be careful not to sprinkle too much sugar onto the baking sheet, however, as it is bound to burn in the 4-5 hours the tomatoes are in the oven.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Speaking of ovens, this is one of those recipes where you want to be sure your oven’s temperature is accurate since you really want the roast to be low and slow. Check the tomatoes in the beginning and lower the heat if they seem to be coloring too quickly. Also, if your oven has any hot spots, be sure to rotate the tray to ensure even cooking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Brilliant recipe, Erin! Thank you!\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_86269\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/08/erinscott_yummysupper_BAB_CandiedTomatoes-2565.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/08/erinscott_yummysupper_BAB_CandiedTomatoes-2565.jpg\" alt=\"Candied Tomatoes. Photo: Erin Scott\" width=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-86269\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Candied Tomatoes. Photo: Erin Scott\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: Candied Tomatoes\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>There is nothing like the deep flavor of roasted tomatoes to combat the winter doldrums. You heard me right: I'm talking about tomatoes in winter. This recipe is all about taking advantage of summer produce at its peak and giving us access to summer delights well into the winter months.\t \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you are lucky enough to grow your own tomatoes, this is a perfect way to turn your bounty into an ingredient you can enjoy long after the summer sun has set. If you are like us and love tomatoes but don't grow them yourself, don't despair. When the days are hot and the time is right, go out and buy bags of your favorite local tomatoes. I hit the market in August and September, when our Northern California tomatoes are at their sweetest (and their prices are at their lowest), and I get to work candying dry-farmed Early Girls by the crateful. I toss them into freezer bags, and the juicy roasted tomatoes are ours to savor year-round.\t \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Feel free to double or even quadruple this recipe. You won't be sorry when you have a stash of sweet roasted tomatoes waiting for you in the freezer. See \u003cem>Candied Tomatoes\u003c/em> put to use in these recipes: \u003cem>Pork Ragu\u003c/em> and \u003cem>Cozy Winter Soup with Fennel Sausage, Leeks, White Beans, and Rapini\u003c/em>.\t\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes about 1 1/2 cups\u003c/em>\t \t \u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\t \t \n\u003cli>4 pounds tomatoes (I'm partial to dry-farmed Early Girls--they may not look fancy, but the flavor is unbeatable)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2-4 tablespoons olive oil\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Sea salt\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 1/2 tablespoons sugar or 1 tablespoon light agave nectar\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003col>\n\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\t \t \n\u003cli>Preheat your oven to 250°F.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Slice small or medium tomatoes in half and spread them out, face up, over a large baking sheet. (If you are using huge heirloom tomatoes, cut them into large wedges.) Lightly drizzle the olive oil over the tops of the tomatoes. Sprinkle with salt. I like to sprinkle on a bit of sugar or drizzle on a bit of agave nectar to enhance the caramelization of the slow roast. Slide the baking sheet into the warm oven.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>After 4 to 5 hours of roasting, your tomatoes will be ready. They will have shrunk in size significantly and the flavors will have concentrated. The tops will be caramelized, but the tomatoes will still be nice and juicy.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>If you're like me, you'll need to go ahead and eat some roasted tomatoes right away--they are hard to resist. Maybe make yourself a bowl of roasted tomato pasta with fresh basil, mozzarella, plenty of olive oil, and garlic. Or how about roasted tomato soup?\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Tip:\u003c/strong> To save some Candied Tomatoes, fill a resealable plastic bag or two and store them in your freezer. When you pull them out in deep winter, you'll smile as you taste a bit of summer.\t \t \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Reprinted from \u003cstrong>Yummy Supper\u003c/strong> by Erin Scott. Copyright (c) 2014 by Erin Scott. By permission of Rodale Books. Available wherever books are sold.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Information\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Yummy Supper: 100 Fresh, Luscious & Honest Recipes from a {Gluten-Free} Omnivore\u003c/strong> by Erin Scott can be found at your local Bay Area Bookstore or online at \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Yummy-Supper-Luscious-Gluten-Free-Omnivore/dp/1609615441\">Amazon\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Erin will be doing many \u003cstrong>Yummy Supper\u003c/strong> related events this fall, most notably a free book launch party at The Edible Schoolyard in Berkeley on September 7. Check out the \u003ca href=\"http://yummysupper.blogspot.com/p/book-tour.html\">Book Tour\u003c/a> page on her website for more information.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/08/18/341360729/seeking-proof-for-why-we-feel-terrible-after-too-many-drinks\" target=\"_blank\">Fresh Air\u003c/a>:\u003cbr>\nhttp://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/fa/2014/08/20140818_fa_02.mp3\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/books/titles/341360832/proof-the-science-of-booze\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/08/proof-cover.jpg\" alt=\"Proof: The Science of Booze\" width=\"300\" height=\"450\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-86338\">\u003c/a>It can be nice to relax with a glass of wine, a beer or a shot of whiskey. But one drink too many, and you may be paying the price.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To understand why drinking can make us feel so good and so bad, you have to know a little about science, says journalist Adam Rogers, author of \u003cem>Proof: The Science of Booze\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As Rogers notes, researchers have only just begun to explore the mystery of the hangover and share a common language around it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Hangovers have different symptoms for different people,\" Rogers tells \u003cem>Fresh Air\u003c/em>'s Terry Gross. \"Some people wear their hangovers in their guts and some people have horrible headaches, but we still see all of those things as a hangover.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rogers talks about the myths of hangovers — and how hangovers can be an inflammatory response, like the flu.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_86334\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/08/adam-rogers-c-celine-mikahala-grouard_custom-c56c4c5ee2900f9079fc5760588a210229cdf6f2.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/08/adam-rogers-c-celine-mikahala-grouard_custom-c56c4c5ee2900f9079fc5760588a210229cdf6f2.jpg\" alt=\"Adam Rogers is the articles editor at Wired and formerly covered science and technology for Newsweek. Photo: Celine Mikahala Grouard\" width=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-86334\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Adam Rogers is the articles editor at Wired and formerly covered science and technology for Newsweek. Photo: Celine Mikahala Grouard\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>Interview Highlights\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On the myths of hangovers \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The famous one is probably dehydration. Everyone will tell you, \"Oh, it's because alcohol dehydrates you and that's what's causing the hangover.\"... [So you're told to] alternate [between water and alcohol], or have a big glass of water before you go to bed, and some of that comes from the fact that you do get dehydrated. But, in fact, the dehydration does not seem to be what's causing the hangover. You can fix the dehydration — and you're still hung over.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[Also,] it's probably not the case that it's blood sugar that's causing the hangover. When you drink, your blood sugar levels are affected. But by the time you're hung over, your blood sugar levels are back to normal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There's that thing about mixing your drinks — drinking beer and then drinking wine, right? Again, no, you can do the study where you can have somebody drinking the same drink and getting to the same blood alcohol level and somebody drinking different drinks and getting to the same blood alcohol and they both get the same hangover, they both report the same symptoms.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On measuring and studying hangovers \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It wasn't until very recently that the researchers who studied hangovers even had a shared kind of language or vocabulary to even talk about them. They didn't even have a surveyed instrument that they could use to give people to have a reliable account of whether your hangover was worse than mine or different from mine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On a hangover being an inflammatory response \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[Scientists] finally have a survey instrument that they can give somebody and assess, \"You have a Level 9 hangover, and you have a Level 7 hangover,\" and they finally started to see that overlap with both migraine and also an inflammatory response, so the kind of thing you would have if you had the flu — where you feel achy and you feel slow and your brain doesn't work as fast and [you have] general malaise. Looking at that, they can go, \"K, let's see if in fact this is an inflammation.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you look at people with hangovers, the same markers in the blood that you would see with an inflammatory response, things like cytokines, for example — which are molecule[s] that the immune [system] uses to talk to itself — actually do seem elevated, and even better, you can induce what looks like a hangover by giving somebody those same molecules. ... That's good news because if you say, \"Well, it's an inflammatory response,\" then maybe I can go with anti-inflammatory drugs, and we have those. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Author Adam Rogers says there are lots of myths about what causes hangovers. His new book, \u003cem>Proof: The Science of Booze,\u003c/em> explores these and other scientific mysteries of alcohol's effect on the body.\u003cem>\u003c/em>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/08/18/341360729/seeking-proof-for-why-we-feel-terrible-after-too-many-drinks\" target=\"_blank\">Fresh Air\u003c/a>:\u003cbr>\nhttp://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/fa/2014/08/20140818_fa_02.mp3\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/books/titles/341360832/proof-the-science-of-booze\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/08/proof-cover.jpg\" alt=\"Proof: The Science of Booze\" width=\"300\" height=\"450\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-86338\">\u003c/a>It can be nice to relax with a glass of wine, a beer or a shot of whiskey. But one drink too many, and you may be paying the price.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To understand why drinking can make us feel so good and so bad, you have to know a little about science, says journalist Adam Rogers, author of \u003cem>Proof: The Science of Booze\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As Rogers notes, researchers have only just begun to explore the mystery of the hangover and share a common language around it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Hangovers have different symptoms for different people,\" Rogers tells \u003cem>Fresh Air\u003c/em>'s Terry Gross. \"Some people wear their hangovers in their guts and some people have horrible headaches, but we still see all of those things as a hangover.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rogers talks about the myths of hangovers — and how hangovers can be an inflammatory response, like the flu.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_86334\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/08/adam-rogers-c-celine-mikahala-grouard_custom-c56c4c5ee2900f9079fc5760588a210229cdf6f2.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/08/adam-rogers-c-celine-mikahala-grouard_custom-c56c4c5ee2900f9079fc5760588a210229cdf6f2.jpg\" alt=\"Adam Rogers is the articles editor at Wired and formerly covered science and technology for Newsweek. Photo: Celine Mikahala Grouard\" width=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-86334\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Adam Rogers is the articles editor at Wired and formerly covered science and technology for Newsweek. Photo: Celine Mikahala Grouard\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>Interview Highlights\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On the myths of hangovers \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The famous one is probably dehydration. Everyone will tell you, \"Oh, it's because alcohol dehydrates you and that's what's causing the hangover.\"... [So you're told to] alternate [between water and alcohol], or have a big glass of water before you go to bed, and some of that comes from the fact that you do get dehydrated. But, in fact, the dehydration does not seem to be what's causing the hangover. You can fix the dehydration — and you're still hung over.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[Also,] it's probably not the case that it's blood sugar that's causing the hangover. When you drink, your blood sugar levels are affected. But by the time you're hung over, your blood sugar levels are back to normal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There's that thing about mixing your drinks — drinking beer and then drinking wine, right? Again, no, you can do the study where you can have somebody drinking the same drink and getting to the same blood alcohol level and somebody drinking different drinks and getting to the same blood alcohol and they both get the same hangover, they both report the same symptoms.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On measuring and studying hangovers \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It wasn't until very recently that the researchers who studied hangovers even had a shared kind of language or vocabulary to even talk about them. They didn't even have a surveyed instrument that they could use to give people to have a reliable account of whether your hangover was worse than mine or different from mine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On a hangover being an inflammatory response \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[Scientists] finally have a survey instrument that they can give somebody and assess, \"You have a Level 9 hangover, and you have a Level 7 hangover,\" and they finally started to see that overlap with both migraine and also an inflammatory response, so the kind of thing you would have if you had the flu — where you feel achy and you feel slow and your brain doesn't work as fast and [you have] general malaise. Looking at that, they can go, \"K, let's see if in fact this is an inflammation.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you look at people with hangovers, the same markers in the blood that you would see with an inflammatory response, things like cytokines, for example — which are molecule[s] that the immune [system] uses to talk to itself — actually do seem elevated, and even better, you can induce what looks like a hangover by giving somebody those same molecules. ... That's good news because if you say, \"Well, it's an inflammatory response,\" then maybe I can go with anti-inflammatory drugs, and we have those. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Sweet Revenge: Dr. Robert Lustig Explains How to Cut Sugar, Lose Weight and Turn the Tables On Processed Foods",
"title": "Sweet Revenge: Dr. Robert Lustig Explains How to Cut Sugar, Lose Weight and Turn the Tables On Processed Foods",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_85320\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/no-sugar-lustig1000a.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/no-sugar-lustig1000a.jpg\" alt=\"Dr. Robert Lustig gave a lecture at KQED titled: Sweet Revenge: Turning the Tables on Processed Food. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-85320\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dr. Robert Lustig gave a lecture at KQED titled: Sweet Revenge: Turning the Tables on Processed Food. Photo: \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/wendy-goodfriend/\" target=\"_blank\">Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/a>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Before the New York Times asked if \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2011/04/17/magazine/mag-17Sugar-t.html?pagewanted=all&_r=0\" target=\"_blank\">sugar was toxic\u003c/a>, before Michael Bloomberg \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/New_York_City_soft_drink_size_limit\" target=\"_blank\">tried to ban\u003c/a> large sodas in New York City, before people starting calling sugar “\u003ca href=\"http://www.bloomberg.com/video/-fed-up-is-sugar-the-new-tobacco-OJp4SJCORu2GNkCA~9PDvw.html\" target=\"_blank\">the new tobacco\u003c/a>,” UCSF endocrinologist Robert Lustig stood in front of a crowd of UCSF extension students and told them that the increase in obesity over the last 30 years is the result of one thing: \u003cstrong>increased amounts of sugar in our diet\u003c/strong>. \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dBnniua6-oM\" target=\"_blank\">Lustig’s lecture\u003c/a>—a combination of righteous anger and dry science—went on to become a surprise viral hit: since it debuted on YouTube in 2009, it’s been viewed almost five million times.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That lecture was just the beginning of Lustig’s campaign to prove that sugar is the cause of the rise of obesity and other dangerous diseases. He wrote a New York Times bestseller, 2012’s \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Fat-Chance-Beating-Against-Processed/dp/0142180432/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1406681873&sr=8-1&keywords=fat+chance\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>Fat Chance: Beating the Odds Against Sugar, Processed Food, Obesity, and Disease\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, and came out with a companion cookbook \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/The-Fat-Chance-Cookbook-Recipes/dp/1594632944/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1406681873&sr=8-2&keywords=fat+chance\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>The Fat Chance Cookbook: More Than 100 Recipes Ready in Under 30 Minutes to Help You Lose the Sugar and the Weight\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, in December of 2013. Recently, he spoke at KQED for a special presentation (airing in October) called “\u003cstrong>Sweet Revenge: Turning the Tables on Processed Food\u003c/strong>.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lustig’s popularity can partially be attributed to his message that obesity is the result of a broken food system—not laziness or gluttony. For many people, who’ve been told for years that if they simply had more willpower, they’d be guaranteed thinness and good health, his message is a relief.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of those people is Cindy Gershen. When Lustig met Gershen, the owner of \u003ca href=\"http://sunrisebistrocatering.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Walnut Creek’s Sunrise Bistro\u003c/a>, she was 100 pounds overweight. After meeting Lustig and following his eating advice, she lost the weight and started teaching a nutrition class at Concord’s Mt. Diablo High School, where many of her students have undergone similar weight loss transformations. In 2007, she created the \u003ca href=\"http://www.wellnesscitychallenge.org/about/\" target=\"_blank\">Wellness City Challenge\u003c/a>, a healthy living advocacy group that encouraged restaurants to remove trans fats and citizens to exercise.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_85330\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/cindy-gershen-robert-lustig1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/cindy-gershen-robert-lustig1000.jpg\" alt=\"Cindy Gershen and Dr. Robert Lustig co-wrote The Fat Chance Cookbook. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-85330\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cindy Gershen and Dr. Robert Lustig co-wrote The Fat Chance Cookbook. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Gershen, who developed the recipes for last year’s Fat Chance cookbook, described Lustig’s message as a revelation: “I tried every kind of dieting. They said decrease your calories; increase your exercise; you’re lazy; you’re stressed out. And then I met Dr. Lustig. He said it was none of those things. It was all the sugar and it was a lack of fiber. I changed my food to the things that he told me to do. I’ve lost 100 pounds; I’ve restored my vitality, my health, and I’m happy.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lustig instead attributes the rise in obesity (increasing one percent every year) and other related health problems to the rise of sugary processed foods. His catchphrase—repeated throughout his lecture and his books— is that \u003cstrong>a calorie is not a calorie\u003c/strong>. Our body processes different types of fats and carbs in radically different ways. Take fat. There are good fats, like the omega-3 fatty acids (found in wild fish and flax,) and bad fats, like omega-6 fatty acid found in corn-fed beef. Omega-3s reduce inflammation and repair membranes, whereas omega-6s cause inflammation and increases risk of health problems like arthritis and cancer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_85314\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/robert-lustig-get-too-much1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/robert-lustig-get-too-much1000.jpg\" alt=\"We Get Too Much...Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-85314\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">We Get Too Much...Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The same goes for carbs. There are good carbs, like lactose, the sugar found in milk, or fiber-heavy foods like vegetables and whole grains. But the worst carb of all, says Lustig, is sugar. It’s omnipresent in our food supply (77% of the foods in the America food supply include added sugar), and plays a huge role in metabolic syndrome, which leads to diseases like diabetes: Lustig cited a study that showed while eating an extra 150 calories per day did not increase diabetes prevalence worldwide, if those calories came from soda, diabetes prevalence went up 11-fold for the same number of calories.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_85315\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/robert-lustig-get-too-little1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/robert-lustig-get-too-little1000.jpg\" alt=\"We Get Too Little...Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-85315\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">We Get Too Little...Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The negative effects sugar has on our bodies are staggering: sugar alters our hormones so we don’t register hunger the way we normally would, making us eat more; it spikes our dopamine, making us requiring us to eat more sugar for the same effect; and it affects our liver in the same way that alcohol does. We consume an astounding 18 bags of sugar per year, and half of that is added sugar, hidden away in our ketchup and potato chips under names like brown rice syrup and fruit puree (last year, Lustig wrote an ebook called \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Sugar-Has-56-Names-Shoppers-ebook/dp/B00E8OLID2/ref=la_B00ABNHXOW_1_3?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1406682134&sr=1-3\" target=\"_blank\">Sugar Has 56 Names: A Shopper's Guide\u003c/a>). And even if we tried to cut down on sugar, food companies have every incentive to keep us from doing just that: sugar is a cheap preservative that extends food’s shelf life and keeps prices low.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Listening to Lustig’s lecture, it’s easy to feel powerless, or think back guiltily to the honey in your tea or the granola you ate with your yogurt this morning (“Granola,” Lustig said sternly, “is a dessert.”). Yet, there are things we can do to fix what Lustig calls our “toxic food environment.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_85312\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/robert-lustig-toxic-cleanup1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/robert-lustig-toxic-cleanup1000.jpg\" alt=\"Dr. Robert Lustig's Toxic Clean-Up Tips. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-85312\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dr. Robert Lustig's Toxic Clean-Up Tips. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The most valuable change, he says, is shifting your diet to one low in sugar and high in fiber. You don’t need to skip every birthday cake or break room muffin, but toss the soda and juice (which is just as bad as soda, according to Lustig) and start eating more vegetables and whole grains. Lustig cited the famous \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2007/01/28/magazine/28nutritionism.t.html?pagewanted=all\" target=\"_blank\">Michael Pollan maxim\u003c/a> to “Eat food, not too much, mostly plants” but told the audience to focus on the first part of the sentence—focusing on eating real food, he said, the kind your grandmother would recognize, is the most efficient way to better health.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lustig, a former college actor, has a flair for the dramatic. At the beginning of his lecture at KQED, he promised to “change your whole thinking about obesity, diets, and what really causes many of our most dangerous diseases.” It’s a bold claim, especially when we’re awash in diets all claiming to be the healthiest choice, with the high fat Paleo crowd competing against the low fat diet advocates (A debate which Lustig is ambivalent on: they’re both healthy, he said, but he has no preference for any particular diet as long as it’s high fiber, low sugar and free of processed foods.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yet, even if you’re one of the millions who watched Lustig’s original lecture, or you’ve read one of the countless articles about cutting your sugar intake, there’s still much to be gained from reading Lustig’s books, or watching his KQED lecture when it airs in October. Lustig has the ability to distill complex biological processes into simple explanations, the case studies from his work illuminate the misconceptions we have about obesity (it’s hard to argue that obesity is a personal choice when confronted with an obese six month old), and perhaps most importantly, the ability to inspire hope about an issue that often seems impossible to fix.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s easy to watch a YouTube video and resolve to drink less juice. It’s not as easy to get large swathes of people to stop buying soda, to reform school lunch menus or make unprocessed food more accessible to lower income populations. Yet watching Lustig talk about the injustices in our food system, his Brooklyn accent growing thicker the faster and more passionately he speaks, gives you hope. Our government may not care that they’re drowning us in sugar. The companies that sell us our food certainly don’t. But Lustig does, and he’s not going to stop talking until people listen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003ch3>Lustig’s Dos and Don’ts\u003c/h3>\n\u003cul>\u003cstrong>Do:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>Shop the edges of the store, not aisles for real food\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Eat more omega-3 fatty acids, found in wild fish and flax\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Eat fruit as dessert, and if you’re craving cookies or cake, make your own\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Increase consumption of micronutrients, the vitamins and minerals found in fruits and vegetables\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Up your fiber intake. Fiber protects your liver from sugar, says Lustig, and keeps you from overeating.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Eat more whole grains like farro, quinoa, steel-cut oats, hulled barley or brown rice\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cul>\u003cstrong>Don’t:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>Drink your calories. Avoid soda, sports drinks and juice\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Shop hungry—it leads to poor food choices\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Eat anything with “partially hydrogenated” in the ingredient list. That means it contains trans fat, which our bodies can’t metabolize and ends up lining our arteries.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Buy anything that has sugar as one of the first three ingredients\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Eat corn fed beef or farmed fish. Corn oil contains omega 6 fatty acids, which lead to inflammation\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Buy processed food. “If it comes with a label,” says Lustig, “think of it as a warning label.”\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "The UCSF endocrinologist tells you how (and why) to start reducing sugar in your diet...and yes, you can still eat dessert.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_85320\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/no-sugar-lustig1000a.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/no-sugar-lustig1000a.jpg\" alt=\"Dr. Robert Lustig gave a lecture at KQED titled: Sweet Revenge: Turning the Tables on Processed Food. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-85320\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dr. Robert Lustig gave a lecture at KQED titled: Sweet Revenge: Turning the Tables on Processed Food. Photo: \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/wendy-goodfriend/\" target=\"_blank\">Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/a>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Before the New York Times asked if \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2011/04/17/magazine/mag-17Sugar-t.html?pagewanted=all&_r=0\" target=\"_blank\">sugar was toxic\u003c/a>, before Michael Bloomberg \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/New_York_City_soft_drink_size_limit\" target=\"_blank\">tried to ban\u003c/a> large sodas in New York City, before people starting calling sugar “\u003ca href=\"http://www.bloomberg.com/video/-fed-up-is-sugar-the-new-tobacco-OJp4SJCORu2GNkCA~9PDvw.html\" target=\"_blank\">the new tobacco\u003c/a>,” UCSF endocrinologist Robert Lustig stood in front of a crowd of UCSF extension students and told them that the increase in obesity over the last 30 years is the result of one thing: \u003cstrong>increased amounts of sugar in our diet\u003c/strong>. \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dBnniua6-oM\" target=\"_blank\">Lustig’s lecture\u003c/a>—a combination of righteous anger and dry science—went on to become a surprise viral hit: since it debuted on YouTube in 2009, it’s been viewed almost five million times.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That lecture was just the beginning of Lustig’s campaign to prove that sugar is the cause of the rise of obesity and other dangerous diseases. He wrote a New York Times bestseller, 2012’s \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Fat-Chance-Beating-Against-Processed/dp/0142180432/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1406681873&sr=8-1&keywords=fat+chance\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>Fat Chance: Beating the Odds Against Sugar, Processed Food, Obesity, and Disease\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, and came out with a companion cookbook \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/The-Fat-Chance-Cookbook-Recipes/dp/1594632944/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1406681873&sr=8-2&keywords=fat+chance\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>The Fat Chance Cookbook: More Than 100 Recipes Ready in Under 30 Minutes to Help You Lose the Sugar and the Weight\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, in December of 2013. Recently, he spoke at KQED for a special presentation (airing in October) called “\u003cstrong>Sweet Revenge: Turning the Tables on Processed Food\u003c/strong>.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lustig’s popularity can partially be attributed to his message that obesity is the result of a broken food system—not laziness or gluttony. For many people, who’ve been told for years that if they simply had more willpower, they’d be guaranteed thinness and good health, his message is a relief.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of those people is Cindy Gershen. When Lustig met Gershen, the owner of \u003ca href=\"http://sunrisebistrocatering.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Walnut Creek’s Sunrise Bistro\u003c/a>, she was 100 pounds overweight. After meeting Lustig and following his eating advice, she lost the weight and started teaching a nutrition class at Concord’s Mt. Diablo High School, where many of her students have undergone similar weight loss transformations. In 2007, she created the \u003ca href=\"http://www.wellnesscitychallenge.org/about/\" target=\"_blank\">Wellness City Challenge\u003c/a>, a healthy living advocacy group that encouraged restaurants to remove trans fats and citizens to exercise.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_85330\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/cindy-gershen-robert-lustig1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/cindy-gershen-robert-lustig1000.jpg\" alt=\"Cindy Gershen and Dr. Robert Lustig co-wrote The Fat Chance Cookbook. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-85330\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cindy Gershen and Dr. Robert Lustig co-wrote The Fat Chance Cookbook. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Gershen, who developed the recipes for last year’s Fat Chance cookbook, described Lustig’s message as a revelation: “I tried every kind of dieting. They said decrease your calories; increase your exercise; you’re lazy; you’re stressed out. And then I met Dr. Lustig. He said it was none of those things. It was all the sugar and it was a lack of fiber. I changed my food to the things that he told me to do. I’ve lost 100 pounds; I’ve restored my vitality, my health, and I’m happy.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lustig instead attributes the rise in obesity (increasing one percent every year) and other related health problems to the rise of sugary processed foods. His catchphrase—repeated throughout his lecture and his books— is that \u003cstrong>a calorie is not a calorie\u003c/strong>. Our body processes different types of fats and carbs in radically different ways. Take fat. There are good fats, like the omega-3 fatty acids (found in wild fish and flax,) and bad fats, like omega-6 fatty acid found in corn-fed beef. Omega-3s reduce inflammation and repair membranes, whereas omega-6s cause inflammation and increases risk of health problems like arthritis and cancer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_85314\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/robert-lustig-get-too-much1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/robert-lustig-get-too-much1000.jpg\" alt=\"We Get Too Much...Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-85314\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">We Get Too Much...Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The same goes for carbs. There are good carbs, like lactose, the sugar found in milk, or fiber-heavy foods like vegetables and whole grains. But the worst carb of all, says Lustig, is sugar. It’s omnipresent in our food supply (77% of the foods in the America food supply include added sugar), and plays a huge role in metabolic syndrome, which leads to diseases like diabetes: Lustig cited a study that showed while eating an extra 150 calories per day did not increase diabetes prevalence worldwide, if those calories came from soda, diabetes prevalence went up 11-fold for the same number of calories.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_85315\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/robert-lustig-get-too-little1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/robert-lustig-get-too-little1000.jpg\" alt=\"We Get Too Little...Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-85315\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">We Get Too Little...Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The negative effects sugar has on our bodies are staggering: sugar alters our hormones so we don’t register hunger the way we normally would, making us eat more; it spikes our dopamine, making us requiring us to eat more sugar for the same effect; and it affects our liver in the same way that alcohol does. We consume an astounding 18 bags of sugar per year, and half of that is added sugar, hidden away in our ketchup and potato chips under names like brown rice syrup and fruit puree (last year, Lustig wrote an ebook called \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Sugar-Has-56-Names-Shoppers-ebook/dp/B00E8OLID2/ref=la_B00ABNHXOW_1_3?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1406682134&sr=1-3\" target=\"_blank\">Sugar Has 56 Names: A Shopper's Guide\u003c/a>). And even if we tried to cut down on sugar, food companies have every incentive to keep us from doing just that: sugar is a cheap preservative that extends food’s shelf life and keeps prices low.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Listening to Lustig’s lecture, it’s easy to feel powerless, or think back guiltily to the honey in your tea or the granola you ate with your yogurt this morning (“Granola,” Lustig said sternly, “is a dessert.”). Yet, there are things we can do to fix what Lustig calls our “toxic food environment.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_85312\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/robert-lustig-toxic-cleanup1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/robert-lustig-toxic-cleanup1000.jpg\" alt=\"Dr. Robert Lustig's Toxic Clean-Up Tips. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-85312\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dr. Robert Lustig's Toxic Clean-Up Tips. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The most valuable change, he says, is shifting your diet to one low in sugar and high in fiber. You don’t need to skip every birthday cake or break room muffin, but toss the soda and juice (which is just as bad as soda, according to Lustig) and start eating more vegetables and whole grains. Lustig cited the famous \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2007/01/28/magazine/28nutritionism.t.html?pagewanted=all\" target=\"_blank\">Michael Pollan maxim\u003c/a> to “Eat food, not too much, mostly plants” but told the audience to focus on the first part of the sentence—focusing on eating real food, he said, the kind your grandmother would recognize, is the most efficient way to better health.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lustig, a former college actor, has a flair for the dramatic. At the beginning of his lecture at KQED, he promised to “change your whole thinking about obesity, diets, and what really causes many of our most dangerous diseases.” It’s a bold claim, especially when we’re awash in diets all claiming to be the healthiest choice, with the high fat Paleo crowd competing against the low fat diet advocates (A debate which Lustig is ambivalent on: they’re both healthy, he said, but he has no preference for any particular diet as long as it’s high fiber, low sugar and free of processed foods.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yet, even if you’re one of the millions who watched Lustig’s original lecture, or you’ve read one of the countless articles about cutting your sugar intake, there’s still much to be gained from reading Lustig’s books, or watching his KQED lecture when it airs in October. Lustig has the ability to distill complex biological processes into simple explanations, the case studies from his work illuminate the misconceptions we have about obesity (it’s hard to argue that obesity is a personal choice when confronted with an obese six month old), and perhaps most importantly, the ability to inspire hope about an issue that often seems impossible to fix.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s easy to watch a YouTube video and resolve to drink less juice. It’s not as easy to get large swathes of people to stop buying soda, to reform school lunch menus or make unprocessed food more accessible to lower income populations. Yet watching Lustig talk about the injustices in our food system, his Brooklyn accent growing thicker the faster and more passionately he speaks, gives you hope. Our government may not care that they’re drowning us in sugar. The companies that sell us our food certainly don’t. But Lustig does, and he’s not going to stop talking until people listen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003ch3>Lustig’s Dos and Don’ts\u003c/h3>\n\u003cul>\u003cstrong>Do:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>Shop the edges of the store, not aisles for real food\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Eat more omega-3 fatty acids, found in wild fish and flax\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Eat fruit as dessert, and if you’re craving cookies or cake, make your own\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Increase consumption of micronutrients, the vitamins and minerals found in fruits and vegetables\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Up your fiber intake. Fiber protects your liver from sugar, says Lustig, and keeps you from overeating.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Eat more whole grains like farro, quinoa, steel-cut oats, hulled barley or brown rice\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cul>\u003cstrong>Don’t:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>Drink your calories. Avoid soda, sports drinks and juice\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Shop hungry—it leads to poor food choices\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Eat anything with “partially hydrogenated” in the ingredient list. That means it contains trans fat, which our bodies can’t metabolize and ends up lining our arteries.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Buy anything that has sugar as one of the first three ingredients\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Eat corn fed beef or farmed fish. Corn oil contains omega 6 fatty acids, which lead to inflammation\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Buy processed food. “If it comes with a label,” says Lustig, “think of it as a warning label.”\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "The Banh Mi Handbook: Recipes for Crazy-Delicious Sandwiches, by Andrea Nguyen",
"title": "The Banh Mi Handbook: Recipes for Crazy-Delicious Sandwiches, by Andrea Nguyen",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_84972\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/COVER_The-Banh-Mi-Handbook1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/COVER_The-Banh-Mi-Handbook1000.jpg\" alt=\"The Banh Mi Handbook: Recipes for Crazy-Delicious Vietnamese Sandwiches by Andrea Nguyen. Photo: Paige Green\" width=\"1000\" height=\"889\" class=\"size-full wp-image-84972\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Banh Mi Handbook: Recipes for Crazy-Delicious Vietnamese Sandwiches by Andrea Nguyen. Photo: Paige Green\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>What's your favorite easy hand-held meal? If you've lived in the Bay Area for more than a week, it's probably the burrito. But increasingly, right behind it is the Vietnamese sandwich known as banh mi. Once found only in Vietnamese immigrant neighborhoods, the banh mi--which adapted French colonial ingredients to Southeast Asian tastes--has rapidly become a Bay Area staple. Vietnamese-owned delis like Saigon Sandwiches in the Tenderloin sell them; so do chic cafes like \u003ca href=\"http://www.bunmee.co/\">Bun Mee\u003c/a> in Pacific Heights and the Castro. And now, local Asian-food expert and cookbook author \u003ca href=\"http://www.vietworldkitchen.com\">Andrea Nguyen\u003c/a>, who was airlifted out of Saigon with her family in 1975, has come out with \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/160774533X/kqedorg-20\">The Banh Mi Handbook: Recipes for Crazy-Delicious Vietnamese Sandwiches\u003c/a>, an informative, mouth-watering guide to making banh mi at home. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_84971\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 214px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/AUTHOR_Andrea-Nguyen_Credit-Ariana-Lindquist700.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/AUTHOR_Andrea-Nguyen_Credit-Ariana-Lindquist700-214x290.jpg\" alt=\"Author Andrea Nguyen. Photo: Ariana Lindquist\" width=\"214\" height=\"290\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-84971\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Author Andrea Nguyen. Photo: Ariana Lindquist\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Nguyen is the author of several other cookbooks, including \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1580089755/kqedorg-20\">Asian Dumplings\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1607740257/kqedorg-20\">Asian Tofu\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1580086659/kqedorg-20\">Into the Vietnamese Kitchen\u003c/a>. Her writing style is brisk and lively, and she does an excellent job in explaining unfamiliar ingredients and laying out techniques step by step. An accomplished home cook with professional training, Nguyen's recipes are clear and detailed, without restaurant-chef jargon, and she has a friendly way of anticipating--and problem-solving--typical pitfalls for novice cooks. The book, cute and stylish, would make a great off-to-college or first-apartment gift, especially for someone who already loves these flavors and, sadly, might be relocating to a wilderness where these pickle-adorned, headcheese-stuffed baguettes are not standard-issue sandwich-shop fare. Served with rice or noodles, many of the recipes for grilled and braised meats could make for easy dinners at home, while the big-flavor spreads could muscle out the typical mayo n' mustard on any number of Western-style sandwiches. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a short but informative first chapter, Nguyen explains the French colonial influence in Vietnam that led to the sandwich's creation, as well as the post-war diaspora of refugees fleeing Communist rule that spread the sandwich across the world. The French colonials brought baguettes to Vietnam, where they were known first as \u003cem>banh Tay\u003c/em> (Western or French bread), then as \u003cem>banh mi \u003c/em>(wheat bread). Writes Nguyen,\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"My father's eighty-something-year-old friends recall that around the early 1940s, Saigon vendors started offering \u003cem>banh mi thi nguoi,\u003c/em> an East-meets-West combination of cold cuts stuffed inside baguette with canned French butter or fresh mayonnaise, pickles, cucumber, cilantro, and chile. Reunification of North and South Vietnam via the communist takeover in 1975 resulted in a mass exodus of refugees, many of whom settled in North America, France, and Australia. Those who came from Saigon brought fond memories of Saigon-style sandwiches and yearned to savor them once more, and banh mi shops, bakeries, and delis sprung up in response.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Although the sandwich was born as a hybrid between French ingredients and Vietnamese tastes, Nguyen knows that a squirt of Sriracha and a handful of cilantro does not a banh mi make, and wisely, she resists the temptation to push her recipes into overloaded-hoagie territory. Although Nguyen's subtitle is \"Recipes for Crazy-Delicious Vietnamese Sandwiches,\" she keeps the emphasis on delicious rather than crazy. You won't find a sandwich stuffed with \u003ca href=\"http://sf.eater.com/archives/2014/05/27/the_macandcheese_burrito_sold_out_in_30_minutes.php\">mac and cheese\u003c/a> here. Nguyen's recipes are creative and contemporary, and definitely more adventurous than what you'll find at your typical Vietnamese corner deli, but they don't stray into anything-goes territory. Instead, you'll find fillings like Hanoi Grilled Chicken, Sri Lankan Black Curry Chicken, Shrimp in Caramel Sauce, Chinese Barbecued Pork, Panko-Crusted Tilapia, and Garlic Pepper Pork Tenderloin. There are also eight vegetarian fillings, from Edamame Pate to Lemongrass Sriracha Tempeh and Thai Fried Omelet. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_84984\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/shrimp-in-caramel-sauce1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/shrimp-in-caramel-sauce1000.jpg\" alt=\"Shrimp in Carmel Sauce. Photo: Paige Green\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-84984\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Shrimp in Caramel Sauce. Photo: Paige Green\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The book offers an in-depth, crash course in banh mi history, ingredients, and how-tos. There's a brief but helpful two-page guide to the \"banh mi pantry,\" stocked with items ranging from fish sauce, soy sauce, and Swiss Maggi Seasoning to white vinegar (for pickling), Chinese five-spice powder, and mayonnaise. The following \"Master Banh Mi\" recipe lays out the typical components and amounts of the classic sandwich: vegetables (cucumbers, cilantro, fresh chiles, pickled daikon and carrots); filling; bread; mayonnaise or butter; and an umami-rich seasoning, such as Maggi Seasoning or soy sauce. This master recipe explains the simple steps, from lightly toasting the bread to layering the fillings, that go into making a delicious banh mi. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then, each chapter explains a different element of the process. \"Bread\" gives recipes for making your own French-style sandwich rolls at home, but also gives helpful suggestions on sourcing ready-made options. \"Mayonnaise, Sauces, and Pickles\" starts with homemade mayonnaise, then gives a handful of variations ranging from Cilantro Maggi Mayonnaise to Srirachi Aioli. Her easy vinegar-brine pickles--Citrusy Red Cabbage Pickle, Green Tomato and Lemongrass, Red Radish and Carrot--could liven up any summer picnic. \"Cold Cuts\" gives straightforward DIY options for making the East-meets-West sausages, terrines, and pates typically found in Vietnamese sandwich shops. Next come succulent, meaty chapters filled with inventive fillings, including chicken, pork, beef, seafood, tofu, and more. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At her book launch party at Omnivore Books on Monday, Nguyen came up with \u003ca href=\"http://www.vietworldkitchen.com/blog/2014/07/banh-mi-party-tips.html\">a great party idea\u003c/a>. Platters of grilled and braised meat, bowls of pickles, dishes of cilantro sprigs and slivered cucumbers, and jars of flavored mayonnaises with paired with baskets of thin-sliced baguette toasts. Guests piled their plates high and made their own open-face banh mi crostini. Savory cocktails were spiked with fish sauce or pickling brine. Forget the olives and proscuitto, cheese platter and grapes: \u003ca href=\"http://www.vietworldkitchen.com/blog/2014/07/banh-mi-party-tips.html\">the banh mi bar\u003c/a> had arrived, and in less than an hour, Nguyen's fans had picked every platter clean. As she writes,\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"Banh mi started out as a colonial novelty in Vietnam, became a nationwide favorite, was transported and transplanted via a diaspora, and was enthusiastically adopted by new audiences. Like people in Vietnam, these new fans enjoy banh mi for what it is: a super tasty sandwich.\" \u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_84975\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/hanoi-grilled-chicken1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/hanoi-grilled-chicken1000.jpg\" alt=\"Hanoi Grilled Chicken. Photo: Paige Green\" width=\"1000\" height=\"902\" class=\"size-full wp-image-84975\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Hanoi Grilled Chicken. Photo: Paige Green\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: Hanoi Grilled Chicken\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Reprinted with permission from The Banh Mi Handbook by Andrea Nguyen (Ten Speed Press, 2014).\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Brilliant foods are often simple foods. I had this tangy-salty grilled chicken at a Hanoi cafe in 2003 and was struck by its bright flavor. So much so that I replicated it upon returning to the States. It's great with rice but is perfectly at home stuffed into baguette. When possible, grill it over an open flame for a nice charred flavor. The heavy dose of black pepper lends an edge to this chicken. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes enough for 6 banh mi\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>1 1/2 lbs boneless, skinless chicken thighs\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 teaspoon sugar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>brimming 1/4 tsp salt\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 3/4 teaspoons black pepper\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tablespoon fish sauce\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tablespoon fresh lime juice\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>About 1 1/2 tbsp canola oil\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003col>\n\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>Trim and discard big fat pads from chicken thighs. If the thighs are large and/or super uneven in thickness, butterfly them. Set aside.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>In a bowl, stir together the sugar, salt, pepper, fish sauce, and lime juice. If needed, tweak the flavor to get a slightly tart-sweet, salty finish. Add the oil, then the chicken, coating the pieces well. Cover with plastic wrap and marinate at room temperature for 30 minutes.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>To grill the chicken, preheat a gas grill to medium or prepare a medium-hot fire, or use a stove-top grill pan heated over medium-high heat with a little oil brushed on. Cook the chicken for 6 to 10 minutes, turning several times, until clear juices flow out when you pierce the flesh with the tip of a knife. Cool for 10 minutes before cutting across the grain. Tumble in the cooking juices to include extra flavor in the sandwich.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Note:\u003c/strong> When to Flip the Chicken\u003cbr>\nAfter putting a chicken thigh on a hot grill or pan, let it sear undisturbed. When there is an opaque border about 1/4 inch, flip the chicken. It should release easily and have nice browning on the underside. The second side will cook in less time, and you can turn it as you like. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_84973\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/daikon-pickle1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/daikon-pickle1000.jpg\" alt=\"Daikon and Carrot Pickle. Photo: Paige Green \" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-84973\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Daikon and Carrot Pickle. Photo: Paige Green\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: Daikon and Carrot Pickle\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Reprinted with permission from The Banh Mi Handbook by Andrea Nguyen (Ten Speed Press, 2014).\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you only have one pickle for banh mi, this is it. Many banh mi shops opt to use only (or mostly) carrot for their do chua (literally “tart stuff”). In your kitchen, emphasize the slight radish funk for a sandwich with more character and cut the vegetables big enough to showcase their crunch; limp pickles get lost. Select daikon that’s firm, relatively smooth, and no wider than 2 inches . A batch of this pickle requires one that’s about the length of a forearm. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes about 3 cups\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>1 medium daikon, about 1 pound\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 large carrot, about 6 ounces\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 teaspoon salt, fine sea salt preferred\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 teaspoons plus 1/2 cup (3.5 oz) sugar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 1/4 cups distilled white vinegar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 cup lukewarm water\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003col>\n\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>Peel and cut the daikon into sticks about 3 inches (7.5 cm) long and 1⁄4 inch (6 mm) thick, the width of an average chopstick. Peel and cut the carrot to match the size of the daikon sticks but slightly skinnier. Put the vegetables in a bowl. Toss with the salt and 2 teaspoons of the sugar. Massage and knead the vegetables for 3 minutes, or until you can bend a piece of daikon and the tips touch with- out breaking. They will have lost about a quarter of their original volume.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Flush with running water, then drain in a mesh strainer or colander. Press or shake to expel excess water. Transfer to a 4-cup (1 l) jar.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>For the brine, stir together the remaining 1⁄2 cup (105 g) sugar with the vinegar and water until dissolved. Pour into the jar to cover well. Discard any excess brine. Use after 1 hour or refrigerate for up to a month.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Move over, burritos, here comes the banh mi. Stephanie Rosenbaum Klassen explores The Banh Mi Handbook, Andrea Nguyen's stylish new guide to making irresistable Vietnamese sandwiches at home. With recipes for Hanoi Grilled Chicken and Daikon and Carrot Pickles. ",
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"description": "Move over, burritos, here comes the banh mi. Stephanie Rosenbaum Klassen explores The Banh Mi Handbook, Andrea Nguyen's stylish new guide to making irresistable Vietnamese sandwiches at home. With recipes for Hanoi Grilled Chicken and Daikon and Carrot Pickles. ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_84972\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/COVER_The-Banh-Mi-Handbook1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/COVER_The-Banh-Mi-Handbook1000.jpg\" alt=\"The Banh Mi Handbook: Recipes for Crazy-Delicious Vietnamese Sandwiches by Andrea Nguyen. Photo: Paige Green\" width=\"1000\" height=\"889\" class=\"size-full wp-image-84972\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Banh Mi Handbook: Recipes for Crazy-Delicious Vietnamese Sandwiches by Andrea Nguyen. Photo: Paige Green\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>What's your favorite easy hand-held meal? If you've lived in the Bay Area for more than a week, it's probably the burrito. But increasingly, right behind it is the Vietnamese sandwich known as banh mi. Once found only in Vietnamese immigrant neighborhoods, the banh mi--which adapted French colonial ingredients to Southeast Asian tastes--has rapidly become a Bay Area staple. Vietnamese-owned delis like Saigon Sandwiches in the Tenderloin sell them; so do chic cafes like \u003ca href=\"http://www.bunmee.co/\">Bun Mee\u003c/a> in Pacific Heights and the Castro. And now, local Asian-food expert and cookbook author \u003ca href=\"http://www.vietworldkitchen.com\">Andrea Nguyen\u003c/a>, who was airlifted out of Saigon with her family in 1975, has come out with \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/160774533X/kqedorg-20\">The Banh Mi Handbook: Recipes for Crazy-Delicious Vietnamese Sandwiches\u003c/a>, an informative, mouth-watering guide to making banh mi at home. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_84971\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 214px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/AUTHOR_Andrea-Nguyen_Credit-Ariana-Lindquist700.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/AUTHOR_Andrea-Nguyen_Credit-Ariana-Lindquist700-214x290.jpg\" alt=\"Author Andrea Nguyen. Photo: Ariana Lindquist\" width=\"214\" height=\"290\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-84971\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Author Andrea Nguyen. Photo: Ariana Lindquist\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Nguyen is the author of several other cookbooks, including \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1580089755/kqedorg-20\">Asian Dumplings\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1607740257/kqedorg-20\">Asian Tofu\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1580086659/kqedorg-20\">Into the Vietnamese Kitchen\u003c/a>. Her writing style is brisk and lively, and she does an excellent job in explaining unfamiliar ingredients and laying out techniques step by step. An accomplished home cook with professional training, Nguyen's recipes are clear and detailed, without restaurant-chef jargon, and she has a friendly way of anticipating--and problem-solving--typical pitfalls for novice cooks. The book, cute and stylish, would make a great off-to-college or first-apartment gift, especially for someone who already loves these flavors and, sadly, might be relocating to a wilderness where these pickle-adorned, headcheese-stuffed baguettes are not standard-issue sandwich-shop fare. Served with rice or noodles, many of the recipes for grilled and braised meats could make for easy dinners at home, while the big-flavor spreads could muscle out the typical mayo n' mustard on any number of Western-style sandwiches. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a short but informative first chapter, Nguyen explains the French colonial influence in Vietnam that led to the sandwich's creation, as well as the post-war diaspora of refugees fleeing Communist rule that spread the sandwich across the world. The French colonials brought baguettes to Vietnam, where they were known first as \u003cem>banh Tay\u003c/em> (Western or French bread), then as \u003cem>banh mi \u003c/em>(wheat bread). Writes Nguyen,\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"My father's eighty-something-year-old friends recall that around the early 1940s, Saigon vendors started offering \u003cem>banh mi thi nguoi,\u003c/em> an East-meets-West combination of cold cuts stuffed inside baguette with canned French butter or fresh mayonnaise, pickles, cucumber, cilantro, and chile. Reunification of North and South Vietnam via the communist takeover in 1975 resulted in a mass exodus of refugees, many of whom settled in North America, France, and Australia. Those who came from Saigon brought fond memories of Saigon-style sandwiches and yearned to savor them once more, and banh mi shops, bakeries, and delis sprung up in response.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Although the sandwich was born as a hybrid between French ingredients and Vietnamese tastes, Nguyen knows that a squirt of Sriracha and a handful of cilantro does not a banh mi make, and wisely, she resists the temptation to push her recipes into overloaded-hoagie territory. Although Nguyen's subtitle is \"Recipes for Crazy-Delicious Vietnamese Sandwiches,\" she keeps the emphasis on delicious rather than crazy. You won't find a sandwich stuffed with \u003ca href=\"http://sf.eater.com/archives/2014/05/27/the_macandcheese_burrito_sold_out_in_30_minutes.php\">mac and cheese\u003c/a> here. Nguyen's recipes are creative and contemporary, and definitely more adventurous than what you'll find at your typical Vietnamese corner deli, but they don't stray into anything-goes territory. Instead, you'll find fillings like Hanoi Grilled Chicken, Sri Lankan Black Curry Chicken, Shrimp in Caramel Sauce, Chinese Barbecued Pork, Panko-Crusted Tilapia, and Garlic Pepper Pork Tenderloin. There are also eight vegetarian fillings, from Edamame Pate to Lemongrass Sriracha Tempeh and Thai Fried Omelet. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_84984\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/shrimp-in-caramel-sauce1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/shrimp-in-caramel-sauce1000.jpg\" alt=\"Shrimp in Carmel Sauce. Photo: Paige Green\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-84984\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Shrimp in Caramel Sauce. Photo: Paige Green\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The book offers an in-depth, crash course in banh mi history, ingredients, and how-tos. There's a brief but helpful two-page guide to the \"banh mi pantry,\" stocked with items ranging from fish sauce, soy sauce, and Swiss Maggi Seasoning to white vinegar (for pickling), Chinese five-spice powder, and mayonnaise. The following \"Master Banh Mi\" recipe lays out the typical components and amounts of the classic sandwich: vegetables (cucumbers, cilantro, fresh chiles, pickled daikon and carrots); filling; bread; mayonnaise or butter; and an umami-rich seasoning, such as Maggi Seasoning or soy sauce. This master recipe explains the simple steps, from lightly toasting the bread to layering the fillings, that go into making a delicious banh mi. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then, each chapter explains a different element of the process. \"Bread\" gives recipes for making your own French-style sandwich rolls at home, but also gives helpful suggestions on sourcing ready-made options. \"Mayonnaise, Sauces, and Pickles\" starts with homemade mayonnaise, then gives a handful of variations ranging from Cilantro Maggi Mayonnaise to Srirachi Aioli. Her easy vinegar-brine pickles--Citrusy Red Cabbage Pickle, Green Tomato and Lemongrass, Red Radish and Carrot--could liven up any summer picnic. \"Cold Cuts\" gives straightforward DIY options for making the East-meets-West sausages, terrines, and pates typically found in Vietnamese sandwich shops. Next come succulent, meaty chapters filled with inventive fillings, including chicken, pork, beef, seafood, tofu, and more. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At her book launch party at Omnivore Books on Monday, Nguyen came up with \u003ca href=\"http://www.vietworldkitchen.com/blog/2014/07/banh-mi-party-tips.html\">a great party idea\u003c/a>. Platters of grilled and braised meat, bowls of pickles, dishes of cilantro sprigs and slivered cucumbers, and jars of flavored mayonnaises with paired with baskets of thin-sliced baguette toasts. Guests piled their plates high and made their own open-face banh mi crostini. Savory cocktails were spiked with fish sauce or pickling brine. Forget the olives and proscuitto, cheese platter and grapes: \u003ca href=\"http://www.vietworldkitchen.com/blog/2014/07/banh-mi-party-tips.html\">the banh mi bar\u003c/a> had arrived, and in less than an hour, Nguyen's fans had picked every platter clean. As she writes,\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"Banh mi started out as a colonial novelty in Vietnam, became a nationwide favorite, was transported and transplanted via a diaspora, and was enthusiastically adopted by new audiences. Like people in Vietnam, these new fans enjoy banh mi for what it is: a super tasty sandwich.\" \u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_84975\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/hanoi-grilled-chicken1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/hanoi-grilled-chicken1000.jpg\" alt=\"Hanoi Grilled Chicken. Photo: Paige Green\" width=\"1000\" height=\"902\" class=\"size-full wp-image-84975\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Hanoi Grilled Chicken. Photo: Paige Green\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: Hanoi Grilled Chicken\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Reprinted with permission from The Banh Mi Handbook by Andrea Nguyen (Ten Speed Press, 2014).\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Brilliant foods are often simple foods. I had this tangy-salty grilled chicken at a Hanoi cafe in 2003 and was struck by its bright flavor. So much so that I replicated it upon returning to the States. It's great with rice but is perfectly at home stuffed into baguette. When possible, grill it over an open flame for a nice charred flavor. The heavy dose of black pepper lends an edge to this chicken. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes enough for 6 banh mi\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>1 1/2 lbs boneless, skinless chicken thighs\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 teaspoon sugar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>brimming 1/4 tsp salt\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 3/4 teaspoons black pepper\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tablespoon fish sauce\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tablespoon fresh lime juice\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>About 1 1/2 tbsp canola oil\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003col>\n\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>Trim and discard big fat pads from chicken thighs. If the thighs are large and/or super uneven in thickness, butterfly them. Set aside.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>In a bowl, stir together the sugar, salt, pepper, fish sauce, and lime juice. If needed, tweak the flavor to get a slightly tart-sweet, salty finish. Add the oil, then the chicken, coating the pieces well. Cover with plastic wrap and marinate at room temperature for 30 minutes.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>To grill the chicken, preheat a gas grill to medium or prepare a medium-hot fire, or use a stove-top grill pan heated over medium-high heat with a little oil brushed on. Cook the chicken for 6 to 10 minutes, turning several times, until clear juices flow out when you pierce the flesh with the tip of a knife. Cool for 10 minutes before cutting across the grain. Tumble in the cooking juices to include extra flavor in the sandwich.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Note:\u003c/strong> When to Flip the Chicken\u003cbr>\nAfter putting a chicken thigh on a hot grill or pan, let it sear undisturbed. When there is an opaque border about 1/4 inch, flip the chicken. It should release easily and have nice browning on the underside. The second side will cook in less time, and you can turn it as you like. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_84973\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/daikon-pickle1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/daikon-pickle1000.jpg\" alt=\"Daikon and Carrot Pickle. Photo: Paige Green \" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-84973\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Daikon and Carrot Pickle. Photo: Paige Green\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: Daikon and Carrot Pickle\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Reprinted with permission from The Banh Mi Handbook by Andrea Nguyen (Ten Speed Press, 2014).\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you only have one pickle for banh mi, this is it. Many banh mi shops opt to use only (or mostly) carrot for their do chua (literally “tart stuff”). In your kitchen, emphasize the slight radish funk for a sandwich with more character and cut the vegetables big enough to showcase their crunch; limp pickles get lost. Select daikon that’s firm, relatively smooth, and no wider than 2 inches . A batch of this pickle requires one that’s about the length of a forearm. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes about 3 cups\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>1 medium daikon, about 1 pound\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 large carrot, about 6 ounces\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 teaspoon salt, fine sea salt preferred\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 teaspoons plus 1/2 cup (3.5 oz) sugar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 1/4 cups distilled white vinegar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 cup lukewarm water\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003col>\n\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>Peel and cut the daikon into sticks about 3 inches (7.5 cm) long and 1⁄4 inch (6 mm) thick, the width of an average chopstick. Peel and cut the carrot to match the size of the daikon sticks but slightly skinnier. Put the vegetables in a bowl. Toss with the salt and 2 teaspoons of the sugar. Massage and knead the vegetables for 3 minutes, or until you can bend a piece of daikon and the tips touch with- out breaking. They will have lost about a quarter of their original volume.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Flush with running water, then drain in a mesh strainer or colander. Press or shake to expel excess water. Transfer to a 4-cup (1 l) jar.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>For the brine, stir together the remaining 1⁄2 cup (105 g) sugar with the vinegar and water until dissolved. Pour into the jar to cover well. Discard any excess brine. Use after 1 hour or refrigerate for up to a month.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "'Artisanal' Ramen? Instant Noodles Get A Healthy Dose Of Hacking",
"title": "'Artisanal' Ramen? Instant Noodles Get A Healthy Dose Of Hacking",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_84203\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1996px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/ramen-grid_wide-cfba4e32b49a5c437c5f952ac454cef33357dfa5.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/ramen-grid_wide-cfba4e32b49a5c437c5f952ac454cef33357dfa5.jpg\" alt=\"(Top left, clockwise) Macmen N' Cheese; chocolate ramen; udon and egg. (Bottom row) Ramen fritatta; cannellini beans and spinach; and southwest taco from the book Rah! Rah! Ramen. Photo: Sara Childs/ Courtesy of Interactive Direct\" width=\"1996\" height=\"1123\" class=\"size-full wp-image-84203\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">(Top left, clockwise) Macmen N' Cheese; chocolate ramen; udon and egg. (Bottom row) Ramen fritatta; cannellini beans and spinach; and southwest taco from the book Rah! Rah! Ramen. Photo: Sara Childs/ Courtesy of Interactive Direct\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>by Linda Poon, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/06/26/325942155/artisanal-ramen-instant-noodles-get-a-healthy-dose-of-hacking\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (6/29/14)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If there's one thing college students know well, it's a belly full of instant ramen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Ramen always has been and always will be a college staple,\" says Rick Brandt, a recent University of Iowa graduate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And it's not just college students who turn to the noodles in lean moments: When your food budget is reduced to quarters dug out of the couch, or when hunger pangs strike at ungodly hours, ramen noodles may come to the rescue.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/books/titles/326142110/rah-rah-ramen\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/rah-rah-ramen.jpg\" alt=\"RAH! RAH! RAMEN by Sara Childs\" width=\"300\" height=\"388\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-84208\">\u003c/a>But while you can get a quick fix of salt and carbs by tossing the block of dried noodles and seasoning into the microwave, you won't be getting much in the way of nutrition.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And that got Brandt starving for something that's just as convenient, but a lot healthier. He created the recipe blog College Fed (recently renamed \u003ca href=\"http://dumbeddownfood.com/\">Dumbed Down Food\u003c/a>) to test and share ways to eat healthier in the dorm.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Several blogs like his are now offering students — and anyone else who counts ramen as a staple — all sorts of ways to hack the ripply noodle. The simpler recipes suggest throwing in vegetables and protein to add nutritional value, much like Brandt's \u003ca href=\"http://dumbeddownfood.com/ramen-stir-fry-quick-and-easy/\">ramen stir-fry recipe\u003c/a>, which he says has been one of his more popular posts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The most intriguing hacks are those that take the instant noodle out of its conventional setting. For instance, ditch the bowl and make ramen a substitute for bread in this latest craze: \u003ca href=\"http://dudefoods.com/the-ramen-noodle-grilled-cheese-sandwich/\">ramen noodle grilled cheese sandwich.\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Or, perhaps you prefer to bake it into a ramen frittata, packed with shredded cheese, bacon and tomatoes. Better yet, just smother it in \u003ca href=\"http://fullthymestudent.com/chocolate-top-ramen-ice-cream-sandwiches/\">chocolate and ice cream\u003c/a> for a one-of-a-kind dessert.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The possibilities are endless,\" says a graphic designer and experimental chef who uses the pen name Sara Childs. Her new book \u003cem>Rah! Rah! Ramen\u003c/em> features more than 50 speedy recipes for preparing instant noodles in the microwave. The whole idea, she says, was inspired her friend's college-bound daughter, who mentioned that she had four years of ramen to look forward to.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Childs' recipes include Macmen N' Cheese, which calls for hot sauce, cheddar cheese and bacon. Or, if you're looking for some added fiber, why not try her spinach cannellini ramen soup?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a mood for something sweet? Childs assures me the lemon curd ramen is a must-try.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But these recipes are only the tip of the iceberg. She says she could come up with at least 50 more if she had the time and space in her book. After all, basic ramen (without the seasoning packet) is just wheat flour and palm oil.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"If you look at it as just a basic ingredient, you can keep adding with your imagination and take off on it,\" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ramen is what food historians call a platform food, says \u003ca href=\"http://www.barakkushner.net/\">Barak Kushner\u003c/a>, a Japanese history professor at University of Cambridge. \"It's ... like a sandwich, on which you can put any flavors, so it adapts well to local tastes,\" he tells The Salt.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Plus, at around 30 cents a pack, what cash-strapped adult can resist?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But as the anthropologists behind the book \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/08/16/212671438/ramen-to-the-rescue-how-instant-noodles-fight-global-hunger\">\u003cem>The Noodle Narratives\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem> \u003c/em>will tell you, the \"humble commodity\" means more to Americans than the price suggests.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Instant noodles, it would seem, may serve as a blank slate for the inscription of small personal stories,\" they write. Indeed, when NPR asked listeners to share their ramen noodle stories with us in 2009, we were served a \"\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=120360464\">big, steaming bowl of nostalgia\u003c/a>.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Memories flooded in of how a bad case of gas led to the creation of Stoodles — ramen mixed with beef stew, how a hungry flight attendant discovered the magic of ramen tuna casseroles, and how ramen burritos became a regular lunch item.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These creations may be no match for chef \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=120012206\">David Chang\u003c/a>'s bowls of sybaritic ramen, but they can be considered artisanal in their own respects.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"When people eat a lot [of the same thing], they're always looking for ways to make it better,\" blogger Rick Brandt says. \"And you know what? To them, they've just made something out of this world.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_84203\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1996px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/ramen-grid_wide-cfba4e32b49a5c437c5f952ac454cef33357dfa5.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/ramen-grid_wide-cfba4e32b49a5c437c5f952ac454cef33357dfa5.jpg\" alt=\"(Top left, clockwise) Macmen N' Cheese; chocolate ramen; udon and egg. (Bottom row) Ramen fritatta; cannellini beans and spinach; and southwest taco from the book Rah! Rah! Ramen. Photo: Sara Childs/ Courtesy of Interactive Direct\" width=\"1996\" height=\"1123\" class=\"size-full wp-image-84203\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">(Top left, clockwise) Macmen N' Cheese; chocolate ramen; udon and egg. (Bottom row) Ramen fritatta; cannellini beans and spinach; and southwest taco from the book Rah! Rah! Ramen. Photo: Sara Childs/ Courtesy of Interactive Direct\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>by Linda Poon, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/06/26/325942155/artisanal-ramen-instant-noodles-get-a-healthy-dose-of-hacking\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (6/29/14)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If there's one thing college students know well, it's a belly full of instant ramen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Ramen always has been and always will be a college staple,\" says Rick Brandt, a recent University of Iowa graduate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And it's not just college students who turn to the noodles in lean moments: When your food budget is reduced to quarters dug out of the couch, or when hunger pangs strike at ungodly hours, ramen noodles may come to the rescue.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/books/titles/326142110/rah-rah-ramen\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/rah-rah-ramen.jpg\" alt=\"RAH! RAH! RAMEN by Sara Childs\" width=\"300\" height=\"388\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-84208\">\u003c/a>But while you can get a quick fix of salt and carbs by tossing the block of dried noodles and seasoning into the microwave, you won't be getting much in the way of nutrition.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And that got Brandt starving for something that's just as convenient, but a lot healthier. He created the recipe blog College Fed (recently renamed \u003ca href=\"http://dumbeddownfood.com/\">Dumbed Down Food\u003c/a>) to test and share ways to eat healthier in the dorm.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Several blogs like his are now offering students — and anyone else who counts ramen as a staple — all sorts of ways to hack the ripply noodle. The simpler recipes suggest throwing in vegetables and protein to add nutritional value, much like Brandt's \u003ca href=\"http://dumbeddownfood.com/ramen-stir-fry-quick-and-easy/\">ramen stir-fry recipe\u003c/a>, which he says has been one of his more popular posts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The most intriguing hacks are those that take the instant noodle out of its conventional setting. For instance, ditch the bowl and make ramen a substitute for bread in this latest craze: \u003ca href=\"http://dudefoods.com/the-ramen-noodle-grilled-cheese-sandwich/\">ramen noodle grilled cheese sandwich.\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Or, perhaps you prefer to bake it into a ramen frittata, packed with shredded cheese, bacon and tomatoes. Better yet, just smother it in \u003ca href=\"http://fullthymestudent.com/chocolate-top-ramen-ice-cream-sandwiches/\">chocolate and ice cream\u003c/a> for a one-of-a-kind dessert.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The possibilities are endless,\" says a graphic designer and experimental chef who uses the pen name Sara Childs. Her new book \u003cem>Rah! Rah! Ramen\u003c/em> features more than 50 speedy recipes for preparing instant noodles in the microwave. The whole idea, she says, was inspired her friend's college-bound daughter, who mentioned that she had four years of ramen to look forward to.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Childs' recipes include Macmen N' Cheese, which calls for hot sauce, cheddar cheese and bacon. Or, if you're looking for some added fiber, why not try her spinach cannellini ramen soup?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a mood for something sweet? Childs assures me the lemon curd ramen is a must-try.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But these recipes are only the tip of the iceberg. She says she could come up with at least 50 more if she had the time and space in her book. After all, basic ramen (without the seasoning packet) is just wheat flour and palm oil.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"If you look at it as just a basic ingredient, you can keep adding with your imagination and take off on it,\" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ramen is what food historians call a platform food, says \u003ca href=\"http://www.barakkushner.net/\">Barak Kushner\u003c/a>, a Japanese history professor at University of Cambridge. \"It's ... like a sandwich, on which you can put any flavors, so it adapts well to local tastes,\" he tells The Salt.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Plus, at around 30 cents a pack, what cash-strapped adult can resist?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But as the anthropologists behind the book \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/08/16/212671438/ramen-to-the-rescue-how-instant-noodles-fight-global-hunger\">\u003cem>The Noodle Narratives\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem> \u003c/em>will tell you, the \"humble commodity\" means more to Americans than the price suggests.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Instant noodles, it would seem, may serve as a blank slate for the inscription of small personal stories,\" they write. Indeed, when NPR asked listeners to share their ramen noodle stories with us in 2009, we were served a \"\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=120360464\">big, steaming bowl of nostalgia\u003c/a>.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Memories flooded in of how a bad case of gas led to the creation of Stoodles — ramen mixed with beef stew, how a hungry flight attendant discovered the magic of ramen tuna casseroles, and how ramen burritos became a regular lunch item.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These creations may be no match for chef \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=120012206\">David Chang\u003c/a>'s bowls of sybaritic ramen, but they can be considered artisanal in their own respects.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"When people eat a lot [of the same thing], they're always looking for ways to make it better,\" blogger Rick Brandt says. \"And you know what? To them, they've just made something out of this world.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "SF Chronicle Launches New Food+Home Section ",
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"content": "\u003cp>The food-media world, and its readers and followers, were \u003ca href=\"http://sfist.com/2013/11/13/sf_chronicle_to_kill_off_its_food_s.php\">up in arms\u003c/a> last November when the New York Times reported that the San Francisco Chronicle was \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2013/11/14/business/media/san-francisco-chronicle-plans-to-end-its-prized-food-section.html\">killing its award-winning weekly food section\u003c/a>. With its recipe test kitchen and in-house writers, its well-researched stories and experienced editorial staff, the Chronicle's food section was an anachronism of sorts in these days of sound-bite journalism on demand and ever-shrinking newsroom budgets. But it was widely seen as one of the last holdouts of worthwhile, well-tested and original food and wine writing in a daily newspaper, at a time when more and more weekly food sections were resorting to canned wire-service stories and syndicated recipe columns. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For those of us who make our living as writers, too many stories of good content meeting death under the budget axe are true. But in this case, reports of the demise of the Chronicle's Food and Wine section have been greatly exaggerated. Instead, the long-running Wednesday food section has been revamped into Food + Home, a bigger, brighter insert into the Sunday edition of the paper, debuting this Sunday, June 29. (A \u003ca href=\"http://tablet.olivesoftware.com/Olive/Tablet/SanFranciscoChronicleFoodHome/\">free Food+Home preview has been posted on the SFChronicle site\u003c/a>.) First imagined at 16 pages, this Sunday's launch has grown to 20 pages, a nod to both robust content and a vigorous advertising presence--each one, of course, feeding the other.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/chronicle-food700.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/chronicle-food700.jpg\" alt=\"San Francisco Chronicle Food+Home Section\" width=\"500\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-84155\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When asked about the combination of food and wine with home and garden, assistant managing editor Kitty Morgan and managing editor Audrey Cooper said their goal was to reflect the way readers live now. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We're Northern California,\" noted Audrey Cooper. \"We live outdoors year-round.\" When you can garden, grill, and entertain outside nearly every month of the year, grafting gardening and food together makes sense. At the same time as they're kitting out their kitchens with immersion circulators and Vitamix blenders, eco-conscious readers might also be adding bee boxes and designer chicken coops to their backyards. With more and more Bay Area dwellers adding edible gardening, DIY projects and seasonal cooking into their daily lives, the lines between home, garden, and kitchen are becoming much more permeable. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's a development that Morgan, who worked at both Sunset and Better Homes and Gardens prior to joining the Chronicle editorial staff last year, hopes to reflect throughout the section. As for home design, Cooper and Morgan point out that, especially in the food-centric Bay Area, \"the kitchen is always the most popular room in the house.\" They also discovered that readers were less interested in the previous section's emphasis on sweeping photos of gorgeous--but mostly unattainable--showplace houses, and much more eager to get real-life advice and stylish design solutions for more typical (and often space-challenged) Bay Area homes, bungalows, and apartments. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Over the past few months, Cooper and Morgan have been on a \"listening tour\" to hear what readers want. They realized that, to be relevant in today's very interactive media climate, the paper could no longer be simply the \"voice from on high\" coming from the Chronicle's imposing block of offices on Mission Street. While the paper still has the benefit of fact-checkers, copy editors, and recipe-testers to assure the accuracy of everything from a pudding recipe to a report of a restaurant's closing, Cooper and Morgan hope to make readers' opinions, photographs, and finds into one of the paper's shareable assets.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some things won't change, however; Michael Bauer, the paper's longtime restaurant critic, will continue to write the weekly lead restaurant review, and high-profile wine writer Jon Bonné will lead the wine coverage. The annual much-debated, much-awaited Top 100 Restaurants list will also go on. But Morgan and Cooper plan to emphasize quality writing and a diversity of voices within the section. Alongside Bauer's two-and-a-half star review of Archetype in St. Helena is \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2014/04/14/jonathan-kauffman-the-chronicles-newest-food-critic/\">Jonathan Kauffman\u003c/a>'s two-and-a-half page exploration of \u003ca href=\"http://www.lazybearsf.com/\">Lazy Bear\u003c/a>, an underground restaurant that's poised to go legit in the Mission this summer. Kauffman describes its previous off-the-radar incarnation as \"the highest-rated, least-known restaurant in the Bay Area,\" run by \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/08/23/gifting-an-epic-dinner-in-the-desert-at-burning-man/\">David Barzelay\u003c/a>, who went from laid-off lawyer (fresh out of law school, he'd been employed for less than a year when the post-2008 financial crisis knocked out his job) to obsessively self-taught, molecular gastronomy-inspired cook. \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2014/04/14/jonathan-kauffman-the-chronicles-newest-food-critic/\">Kauffman\u003c/a>, an IACP and James Beard Award-winning writer who previously worked as a reviewer and editor at SF Weekly and Tasting Table, joined the paper's staff in April. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The section will feature fewer recipes than before; with so much recipe content now available online, readers are much less inclined to depend on torn-out newspaper columns for stovetop inspiration. Still, the Chronicle's clout still counts. Notes Cooper, \"We can call up pretty much any chef in the Bay Area and they'll talk to us.\" So the recipe sections--the season-driven Fresh Now and the technique-focused In the Kitchen--will take advantage of the paper's broad access to the pros. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With all this to offer (plus \u003ca href=\"http://vimeo.com/98679294\">ice cream\u003c/a>), the new section seems poised to fill its niche better and more widely than before. Which didn't stop \u003ca href=\"http://eater.com/archives/2014/06/27/its-official-the-san-francisco-chronicle-food-section-is-dead.php\">Eater\u003c/a> from gleefully dancing on the grave of the food section as we've known it. Food and Wine is dead, it's true; long live--or as long as any print newspaper might live in these digital times--\u003ca href=\"http://www.sfchronicle.com/foodandhome/\">Food+Home\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003ciframe src=\"//player.vimeo.com/video/98679294?title=0&byline=0&portrait=0\" width=\"560\" height=\"315\" frameborder=\"0\" mozallowfullscreen allowfullscreen>\u003c/iframe>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>The food-media world, and its readers and followers, were \u003ca href=\"http://sfist.com/2013/11/13/sf_chronicle_to_kill_off_its_food_s.php\">up in arms\u003c/a> last November when the New York Times reported that the San Francisco Chronicle was \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2013/11/14/business/media/san-francisco-chronicle-plans-to-end-its-prized-food-section.html\">killing its award-winning weekly food section\u003c/a>. With its recipe test kitchen and in-house writers, its well-researched stories and experienced editorial staff, the Chronicle's food section was an anachronism of sorts in these days of sound-bite journalism on demand and ever-shrinking newsroom budgets. But it was widely seen as one of the last holdouts of worthwhile, well-tested and original food and wine writing in a daily newspaper, at a time when more and more weekly food sections were resorting to canned wire-service stories and syndicated recipe columns. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For those of us who make our living as writers, too many stories of good content meeting death under the budget axe are true. But in this case, reports of the demise of the Chronicle's Food and Wine section have been greatly exaggerated. Instead, the long-running Wednesday food section has been revamped into Food + Home, a bigger, brighter insert into the Sunday edition of the paper, debuting this Sunday, June 29. (A \u003ca href=\"http://tablet.olivesoftware.com/Olive/Tablet/SanFranciscoChronicleFoodHome/\">free Food+Home preview has been posted on the SFChronicle site\u003c/a>.) First imagined at 16 pages, this Sunday's launch has grown to 20 pages, a nod to both robust content and a vigorous advertising presence--each one, of course, feeding the other.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/chronicle-food700.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/chronicle-food700.jpg\" alt=\"San Francisco Chronicle Food+Home Section\" width=\"500\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-84155\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When asked about the combination of food and wine with home and garden, assistant managing editor Kitty Morgan and managing editor Audrey Cooper said their goal was to reflect the way readers live now. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We're Northern California,\" noted Audrey Cooper. \"We live outdoors year-round.\" When you can garden, grill, and entertain outside nearly every month of the year, grafting gardening and food together makes sense. At the same time as they're kitting out their kitchens with immersion circulators and Vitamix blenders, eco-conscious readers might also be adding bee boxes and designer chicken coops to their backyards. With more and more Bay Area dwellers adding edible gardening, DIY projects and seasonal cooking into their daily lives, the lines between home, garden, and kitchen are becoming much more permeable. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's a development that Morgan, who worked at both Sunset and Better Homes and Gardens prior to joining the Chronicle editorial staff last year, hopes to reflect throughout the section. As for home design, Cooper and Morgan point out that, especially in the food-centric Bay Area, \"the kitchen is always the most popular room in the house.\" They also discovered that readers were less interested in the previous section's emphasis on sweeping photos of gorgeous--but mostly unattainable--showplace houses, and much more eager to get real-life advice and stylish design solutions for more typical (and often space-challenged) Bay Area homes, bungalows, and apartments. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Over the past few months, Cooper and Morgan have been on a \"listening tour\" to hear what readers want. They realized that, to be relevant in today's very interactive media climate, the paper could no longer be simply the \"voice from on high\" coming from the Chronicle's imposing block of offices on Mission Street. While the paper still has the benefit of fact-checkers, copy editors, and recipe-testers to assure the accuracy of everything from a pudding recipe to a report of a restaurant's closing, Cooper and Morgan hope to make readers' opinions, photographs, and finds into one of the paper's shareable assets.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some things won't change, however; Michael Bauer, the paper's longtime restaurant critic, will continue to write the weekly lead restaurant review, and high-profile wine writer Jon Bonné will lead the wine coverage. The annual much-debated, much-awaited Top 100 Restaurants list will also go on. But Morgan and Cooper plan to emphasize quality writing and a diversity of voices within the section. Alongside Bauer's two-and-a-half star review of Archetype in St. Helena is \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2014/04/14/jonathan-kauffman-the-chronicles-newest-food-critic/\">Jonathan Kauffman\u003c/a>'s two-and-a-half page exploration of \u003ca href=\"http://www.lazybearsf.com/\">Lazy Bear\u003c/a>, an underground restaurant that's poised to go legit in the Mission this summer. Kauffman describes its previous off-the-radar incarnation as \"the highest-rated, least-known restaurant in the Bay Area,\" run by \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/08/23/gifting-an-epic-dinner-in-the-desert-at-burning-man/\">David Barzelay\u003c/a>, who went from laid-off lawyer (fresh out of law school, he'd been employed for less than a year when the post-2008 financial crisis knocked out his job) to obsessively self-taught, molecular gastronomy-inspired cook. \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2014/04/14/jonathan-kauffman-the-chronicles-newest-food-critic/\">Kauffman\u003c/a>, an IACP and James Beard Award-winning writer who previously worked as a reviewer and editor at SF Weekly and Tasting Table, joined the paper's staff in April. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The section will feature fewer recipes than before; with so much recipe content now available online, readers are much less inclined to depend on torn-out newspaper columns for stovetop inspiration. Still, the Chronicle's clout still counts. Notes Cooper, \"We can call up pretty much any chef in the Bay Area and they'll talk to us.\" So the recipe sections--the season-driven Fresh Now and the technique-focused In the Kitchen--will take advantage of the paper's broad access to the pros. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With all this to offer (plus \u003ca href=\"http://vimeo.com/98679294\">ice cream\u003c/a>), the new section seems poised to fill its niche better and more widely than before. Which didn't stop \u003ca href=\"http://eater.com/archives/2014/06/27/its-official-the-san-francisco-chronicle-food-section-is-dead.php\">Eater\u003c/a> from gleefully dancing on the grave of the food section as we've known it. Food and Wine is dead, it's true; long live--or as long as any print newspaper might live in these digital times--\u003ca href=\"http://www.sfchronicle.com/foodandhome/\">Food+Home\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003ciframe src=\"//player.vimeo.com/video/98679294?title=0&byline=0&portrait=0\" width=\"560\" height=\"315\" frameborder=\"0\" mozallowfullscreen allowfullscreen>\u003c/iframe>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Josey Baker Bread: Baking for Bros, with Gluten-Free Adventure Bread Recipe",
"title": "Josey Baker Bread: Baking for Bros, with Gluten-Free Adventure Bread Recipe",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/Josey-Baker-Bread-book-700.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/Josey-Baker-Bread-book-700.jpg\" alt=\"Josey Baker Bread\" width=\"700\" height=\"881\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-82825\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dude! You know what's totally cool? Baking bread. No, for real, man, it's awesome, and you can't, like, mess it up. Sure, you'll need to be around the house for a couple of days to tend it, and you should probably make a sourdough starter first, and yes, you'll probably need to go to Rainbow for rice and spelt and kamut flours, and maybe to Williams-Sonoma for a \u003ca href=\"http://www.williams-sonoma.com/products/round-banneton-bread-basket/\">banneton\u003c/a>. And if you get really into it, start grinding that flour yourself so it's super fresh, and yeah, you should try to get local grains too because supporting your local farmers is rad. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If local baker Chad Robertson's \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0811870413/kqedorg-20\">Tartine Bread\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1452114307/kqedorg-20\">Tartine Book No. 3\u003c/a> are for dedicated, spreadsheeting bread geeks, \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1452113688/kqedorg-20\">Josey Baker Bread\u003c/a>, recently published by Chronicle Books, is bread for bros.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82827\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 700px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/Josey-Baker-Bread-Josey700.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/Josey-Baker-Bread-Josey700.jpg\" alt=\"Josey Baker with bread. Photo: Erin Kunkel\" width=\"700\" height=\"1050\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82827\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Josey Baker with bread. Photo: Erin Kunkel\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://joseybakerbread.wordpress.com/\">Josey Baker\u003c/a>, who currently bakes at \u003ca href=\"http://themillsf.com/\">The Mill\u003c/a> in San Francisco and is the man responsible for their famous/infamous \u003ca href=\"http://www.ediblesanfrancisco.com/4-dollar-toast/\">$4 toast\u003c/a>--is a passionate self-taught baker, who learned first from books and YouTube videos, then by showing up and baking elbow to elbow with other dedicated solo operators like Dave Miller of \u003ca href=\"http://www.millersbakehouse.com\">Miller's Bakehouse\u003c/a> in Chico. In his book, he assumes his readers are novice bakers, too, excited but clueless, and so his recipes are laid out like lessons, starting with a (mostly) simple, yeast-based pan loaf and building, stage by stage, to hand-shaped sourdough hearth loaves. Once the reader has mastered the basic sourdough loaf, Baker uses similar techniques and ratios to teach flavored breads, pizzas, and whole-grain, rye, kamut, and spelt loaves. He also shares the recipes for his popular fiber-crammed and gluten-free \"Adventure Loaf\" (recipe below), cornbread, chocolate-chip cookies, fruit crumble, and a roommate's long-soaked \"overnight oats\" porridge. Time (lots of it) and soaking (for seeds, nuts, dried fruits and grains) are the backbones of Baker's baking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Much like the sourdough starter he espouses, a little of Baker's dude-ish enthusiasm can go a long way, depending on your age, attitude and how much time you're spending getting ready for Burning Man this summer. Spend a few minutes scrolling though Baker's blog, though, and it's clear that the voice and tone of the book is sincerely his. Baker is a surfin', bakin', lovin' dude through and through, down to the naked jumping-in-a-river back view that he's proudly posted on his blog's home page. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sometimes it's funny.\"Who doesn't like cinnamon raisin toast?\" he writes in the headnote for Cinnamon Raisin Bread. \"Jerks, that's who.\" Sometimes it's just a little much, as when he coos, half-ironically, \"But I really love me a hearth loaf. (That just sounds so sexy, doesn't it? Say it out loud: \u003cem>hearth loaf\u003c/em>. So liberated, so rustic, so pure).\" And repeating the same Food Network-style catchphrases in every recipe--\"Let the magic happen\" for rising, \"That's a very good question!\" underlined in red for every trouble-shooting query--gets old fast. There's also some needless padding, like a layout that starts every recipe with \"Gather your foodstuffs and tools,\" and the long, unmeasured list of required \"foodstuffs\" that's listed up front and adds an extra page to every recipe. (The ingredients, in their precise measurements, are repeated in easy-to-read tables within the recipes themselves.) \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But how are the breads? Anyone with a bag of flour and a packet of yeast can turn out a comforting, toastable loaf of sandwich bread. (Enter the bread machine.) But making really good bread takes both technique and time. Turning out bread with both a crunchy, crackly crust and a moist, air-hole-riddled interior--the sort of bread we're lucky enough to take for granted here in the Bay Area, home of so many fabulous artisan bakeries--takes a lot more attention and a more refined skill set. There's no getting around those facts, no matter how much Baker insists that his bread recipes are easily adjustable. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Each stage takes only a very small amount of hands-on time, it's true, but you do have to have the leisure, luxury, or flexibility to be around for these multiple stages, even if you're only spending a few minutes each time. Let's break it down: First there's the sourdough making, a 2-week building process. Then the pre-ferment (12 hours), the mixing and dough hydration (1 hour), the kneading and resting (4 times, spread out over 2 hours in 30-min intervals), the 2 or 3 hour bulk rise (2 to 3 hours), the pre-shape and resting (15 minutes), the final shaping and rising (3 to 4 hours), the baking (45 minutes) and the cooling (2 to 3 hours). This is bread baking for those with 24 hours to dedicate to making bread. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By no means is this a criticism of Baker's technique; dough is a living thing and making bread requires natural chemical processes that don't benefit from being rushed. Bread risen fast can taste harshly of the commercial yeast it's made from, while slow-risen, naturally leavened breads share the mellow flavor of their grains. But it can take some close reading to realize just how slow a process making these breads can be. Baker, in his enthusiasm, doesn't really lay out the timing beforehand, although he does scale each recipe's ingredients for 1, 2 and 4 loaves in a handy chart. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For those who think of Baker as simply the \"hipster toast guy,\" this book should be a cautionary tale for anyone hoping to start a small perishable food business, especially those used to the regular comfort of tech-sized paychecks. At least in writing, Baker takes a wide-eyed, aw-shucks attitude towards his current success, acting stunned each time his loaves find a new level of popularity, from neighbors offering to pay for the \"free bread\" he'd been passing around, to strangers signing up for his \"Community Supported Bread\" program after Daily Candy wrote a story about it, to the local businesses, including \u003ca href=\"http://www.missionpie.com\">Mission Pie\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.pizzaiolooakland.com/\">Pizzaiolo\u003c/a>, who helped him grow his itinerant bakery by providing commercial baking space. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It also took building a helping-hands community of friends and colleagues willing to share their time, space, expertise, and, in the case of Pizzaiolo owner Charlie Hallowell, even a couch, where Baker would crash during the wee hours while his dough rose in the restaurant nearby. Baker never complains--in fact, he's thrilled that doing what he loves has actually become a business--but he also doesn't play down the immense amounts of sheer physical work it took for him as a one-man operation to learn and make quality bread for sale, day in and day out, including huge amounts of driving, hauling, and up-and-down-the-stairs moving of bag after bag of flours, seeds, starters, equipment and more. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In describing how he came up with the small single-size loaves he calls \"pocketbreads\" (not pitas, but small, round sourdough loaves baked in muffin pans), he explains how he was losing sales to people who \"weren't looking for the commitment of an entire loaf.\" At that point, baking in a spare corner of the kitchen at Mission Pie, the bread was so labor-intensive that he needed to sell every bit he made. As he writes, \"So I started taking 10 or 15 pounds of my bread dough, tossing stuff in, shaping it into tiny loaves, and seeing how people liked them. Pocketbreads were a big deal for my budding bread business. Some days I sold 75 of those little suckers, at $2 a pop. That was big for me at the time, scraping by as I was. It meant another couple hundred bucks a week, and it meant I could keep diving deeper into bread.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Erin Kunkel's photographs are beautifully appetite-whetting, and work hard to make bread sexy (mmmm, drip that honey...). Gorgeous as they are, though, they often leave holes when it comes to illustrating the recipes step by step. Certain key steps, like the stretch-and-fold techniques used for kneading and shaping, are described but not photographed, which could be a drawback for those who haven't seen these less familiar techniques demonstrated in person. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sometimes, Baker's chattiness and his need to anxiously reassure his readers that, really, anybody can do this and bread-baking isn't as hard as you think can get in the way of necessary detail. The Sesame Bread recipe starts with a whole-wheat pre-ferment of whole wheat flour, water, and a small amount of yeast. This rough, batter-like dough rises for 12 hours, and then the reader is instructed to simply mix in the next ingredients--bread flour, sesame seeds, water, salt. But what I got was a white dough ribboned like marble cake with brown whole-wheat pre-ferment, a unhomogenized mixture that needs serious beating to blend. Based on experience with other bread books, I realized it would have made much more sense to break the pre-ferment down in water like a batter, then expand it bit by bit with white flour to make a smooth dough. The explanations for stretching and turning the dough--a gentler version of kneading that works better for the slack, slow-risen doughs used here--could also use more clarification. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Still, Baker does his best to get novice bakers excited about the prospect of turning out serious bread. There are useful tips, like the need for pre-soaking seeds before adding (otherwise, they'll suck up excess moisture in the dough, resulting in a dry loaf), and the ways that rye, spelt and kamut flours act differently from wheat. (I also plan to adopt his DIY baker's blade--a sharpened popsicle stick slid through the holes of a double-edged razor blade--as soon as possible, since a regular knife blade invariably sticks and tears with every attempt to slash through the top of a jiggly risen pillow of dough.) If you can handle the tone, Baker offers a lot of useful information here, without getting either as precise or technical as Robertson. While Robertson seems dubious that anyone but a fellow obsessive can master his meticulous and beautiful breads, Baker can't wait to share the joy he finds in all things bread-related. He's convinced that anyone--that means you, baker!--can make a sexy loaf, given a handful of techniques and a bread-dedicated 24 hours or so. Go ye forth, dude, and bake. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.penroseoakland.com/\">Penrose Restaurant\u003c/a> will be featuring a special menu and booksigning for Josey Baker Bread on June 6, 5:30-10:30pm.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82824\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 700px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/Josey-Baker-Bread_Adventure-Bread700.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/Josey-Baker-Bread_Adventure-Bread700.jpg\" alt=\"Josey Baker Adventure Bread. Photo: Erin Kunkel\" width=\"700\" height=\"1050\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82824\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Josey Baker Adventure Bread. Photo: Erin Kunkel\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Adventure Bread\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Adapted from \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1452113688/kqedorg-20\">Josey Baker Bread\u003c/a> by Josey Baker (Chronicle Books, 2014).\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sometimes you need a bread that is so dense, so hearty, so jam-packed full of seeds and grains (and devoid of air) that it will sustain you on your mightiest of adventures. That’s what this bread is for. But that’s not all it is for . . . it’s also gluten-free! That will either entice you or turn you off, but either way I really hope that you give it a shot because it is incredible, and it is suuuper healthy. It’s unlike any other bread in this book, in that there isn’t even any flour in it, and it isn’t fermented—it’s basically just a bunch of seeds held together with a little bit of psyllium seed husk and chia seeds. I started making it in the bakery because we kept having folks come in and ask us for gluten-free bread, and I got tired of saying no. Up until we made this bread, I had mostly been turned off by gluten-free breads, because it seemed like they were all just trying to imitate wheat breads, and failing miserably. But this bread stands on its own—it is gluten-free and proud of it. Special thanks goes out to Sarah Britton, blogger at My New Roots; her recipe inspired this bread.\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>2 1/4 cups (235 gms) rolled oats\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 cup (160 gms) sunflower seeds\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 cup pumpkin seeds\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3/4 cup almonds, toasted and coarsely chopped\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3/4 cup flax seeds\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/3 cup (25 gm) psyllium seed husk\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3 tbsp chia seeds\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 tsp (12 gm) finely ground sea salt\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 tbsp maple syrup\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 cup olive oil\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 1/2 (600 gm) cups water\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003col>\n\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>Toast the seeds. Preheat your oven to 350°F/180°C. Spread the sunflower and pumpkin seeds on a baking sheet and toast until they start to brown, about 15 minutes, stirring halfway between baking.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Measure ingredients. Dump dry stuff into a big bowl. Then pour in all the wet stuff.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Mix it all up, scoop into pan. Oil a loaf pan (about 8\" x 4\", or 20cm x 10cm), and then mush up your “dough” real good with your strong hands or a big spoon. Take pride in your mush-job, this is all of the handling you’re going to do with this “dough.” Once it’s mixed real good, scoop it into your oiled pan and smooth out the top so it looks nice. Then stick that guy in the fridge and leave it alone for at least a few hours, up to a whole day.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Bake it. Put a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat to 400°F/200°C. Bake for about an hour or so, then take it out and gently remove the loaf from the pan. Let it cool on a cooling rack for at least 2 hours (YES, two whole hours). Don’t rush it here folks, this bread is D*E*N*S*E, and if you don’t wait for it to cool, it really won’t be as yummy.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Toast and eat. This bread is definitely best sliced nice and thin (around 1/2 inch/12 mm) and then toasted up and spread with whatever your heart desires. And don’t worry, if you’re adventuring somewhere without toaster access (like a gorgeous river in the middle of nowhere), it will still be scrumptious, I promise.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Love The Mill's fabulous toast? Learn how to make Josey Baker's sourdough breads at home with the new Josey Baker Bread cookbook. Includes the recipe for his seed-packed, gluten-free Adventure Loaf. ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/Josey-Baker-Bread-book-700.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/Josey-Baker-Bread-book-700.jpg\" alt=\"Josey Baker Bread\" width=\"700\" height=\"881\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-82825\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dude! You know what's totally cool? Baking bread. No, for real, man, it's awesome, and you can't, like, mess it up. Sure, you'll need to be around the house for a couple of days to tend it, and you should probably make a sourdough starter first, and yes, you'll probably need to go to Rainbow for rice and spelt and kamut flours, and maybe to Williams-Sonoma for a \u003ca href=\"http://www.williams-sonoma.com/products/round-banneton-bread-basket/\">banneton\u003c/a>. And if you get really into it, start grinding that flour yourself so it's super fresh, and yeah, you should try to get local grains too because supporting your local farmers is rad. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If local baker Chad Robertson's \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0811870413/kqedorg-20\">Tartine Bread\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1452114307/kqedorg-20\">Tartine Book No. 3\u003c/a> are for dedicated, spreadsheeting bread geeks, \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1452113688/kqedorg-20\">Josey Baker Bread\u003c/a>, recently published by Chronicle Books, is bread for bros.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82827\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 700px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/Josey-Baker-Bread-Josey700.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/Josey-Baker-Bread-Josey700.jpg\" alt=\"Josey Baker with bread. Photo: Erin Kunkel\" width=\"700\" height=\"1050\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82827\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Josey Baker with bread. Photo: Erin Kunkel\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://joseybakerbread.wordpress.com/\">Josey Baker\u003c/a>, who currently bakes at \u003ca href=\"http://themillsf.com/\">The Mill\u003c/a> in San Francisco and is the man responsible for their famous/infamous \u003ca href=\"http://www.ediblesanfrancisco.com/4-dollar-toast/\">$4 toast\u003c/a>--is a passionate self-taught baker, who learned first from books and YouTube videos, then by showing up and baking elbow to elbow with other dedicated solo operators like Dave Miller of \u003ca href=\"http://www.millersbakehouse.com\">Miller's Bakehouse\u003c/a> in Chico. In his book, he assumes his readers are novice bakers, too, excited but clueless, and so his recipes are laid out like lessons, starting with a (mostly) simple, yeast-based pan loaf and building, stage by stage, to hand-shaped sourdough hearth loaves. Once the reader has mastered the basic sourdough loaf, Baker uses similar techniques and ratios to teach flavored breads, pizzas, and whole-grain, rye, kamut, and spelt loaves. He also shares the recipes for his popular fiber-crammed and gluten-free \"Adventure Loaf\" (recipe below), cornbread, chocolate-chip cookies, fruit crumble, and a roommate's long-soaked \"overnight oats\" porridge. Time (lots of it) and soaking (for seeds, nuts, dried fruits and grains) are the backbones of Baker's baking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Much like the sourdough starter he espouses, a little of Baker's dude-ish enthusiasm can go a long way, depending on your age, attitude and how much time you're spending getting ready for Burning Man this summer. Spend a few minutes scrolling though Baker's blog, though, and it's clear that the voice and tone of the book is sincerely his. Baker is a surfin', bakin', lovin' dude through and through, down to the naked jumping-in-a-river back view that he's proudly posted on his blog's home page. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sometimes it's funny.\"Who doesn't like cinnamon raisin toast?\" he writes in the headnote for Cinnamon Raisin Bread. \"Jerks, that's who.\" Sometimes it's just a little much, as when he coos, half-ironically, \"But I really love me a hearth loaf. (That just sounds so sexy, doesn't it? Say it out loud: \u003cem>hearth loaf\u003c/em>. So liberated, so rustic, so pure).\" And repeating the same Food Network-style catchphrases in every recipe--\"Let the magic happen\" for rising, \"That's a very good question!\" underlined in red for every trouble-shooting query--gets old fast. There's also some needless padding, like a layout that starts every recipe with \"Gather your foodstuffs and tools,\" and the long, unmeasured list of required \"foodstuffs\" that's listed up front and adds an extra page to every recipe. (The ingredients, in their precise measurements, are repeated in easy-to-read tables within the recipes themselves.) \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But how are the breads? Anyone with a bag of flour and a packet of yeast can turn out a comforting, toastable loaf of sandwich bread. (Enter the bread machine.) But making really good bread takes both technique and time. Turning out bread with both a crunchy, crackly crust and a moist, air-hole-riddled interior--the sort of bread we're lucky enough to take for granted here in the Bay Area, home of so many fabulous artisan bakeries--takes a lot more attention and a more refined skill set. There's no getting around those facts, no matter how much Baker insists that his bread recipes are easily adjustable. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Each stage takes only a very small amount of hands-on time, it's true, but you do have to have the leisure, luxury, or flexibility to be around for these multiple stages, even if you're only spending a few minutes each time. Let's break it down: First there's the sourdough making, a 2-week building process. Then the pre-ferment (12 hours), the mixing and dough hydration (1 hour), the kneading and resting (4 times, spread out over 2 hours in 30-min intervals), the 2 or 3 hour bulk rise (2 to 3 hours), the pre-shape and resting (15 minutes), the final shaping and rising (3 to 4 hours), the baking (45 minutes) and the cooling (2 to 3 hours). This is bread baking for those with 24 hours to dedicate to making bread. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By no means is this a criticism of Baker's technique; dough is a living thing and making bread requires natural chemical processes that don't benefit from being rushed. Bread risen fast can taste harshly of the commercial yeast it's made from, while slow-risen, naturally leavened breads share the mellow flavor of their grains. But it can take some close reading to realize just how slow a process making these breads can be. Baker, in his enthusiasm, doesn't really lay out the timing beforehand, although he does scale each recipe's ingredients for 1, 2 and 4 loaves in a handy chart. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For those who think of Baker as simply the \"hipster toast guy,\" this book should be a cautionary tale for anyone hoping to start a small perishable food business, especially those used to the regular comfort of tech-sized paychecks. At least in writing, Baker takes a wide-eyed, aw-shucks attitude towards his current success, acting stunned each time his loaves find a new level of popularity, from neighbors offering to pay for the \"free bread\" he'd been passing around, to strangers signing up for his \"Community Supported Bread\" program after Daily Candy wrote a story about it, to the local businesses, including \u003ca href=\"http://www.missionpie.com\">Mission Pie\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.pizzaiolooakland.com/\">Pizzaiolo\u003c/a>, who helped him grow his itinerant bakery by providing commercial baking space. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It also took building a helping-hands community of friends and colleagues willing to share their time, space, expertise, and, in the case of Pizzaiolo owner Charlie Hallowell, even a couch, where Baker would crash during the wee hours while his dough rose in the restaurant nearby. Baker never complains--in fact, he's thrilled that doing what he loves has actually become a business--but he also doesn't play down the immense amounts of sheer physical work it took for him as a one-man operation to learn and make quality bread for sale, day in and day out, including huge amounts of driving, hauling, and up-and-down-the-stairs moving of bag after bag of flours, seeds, starters, equipment and more. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In describing how he came up with the small single-size loaves he calls \"pocketbreads\" (not pitas, but small, round sourdough loaves baked in muffin pans), he explains how he was losing sales to people who \"weren't looking for the commitment of an entire loaf.\" At that point, baking in a spare corner of the kitchen at Mission Pie, the bread was so labor-intensive that he needed to sell every bit he made. As he writes, \"So I started taking 10 or 15 pounds of my bread dough, tossing stuff in, shaping it into tiny loaves, and seeing how people liked them. Pocketbreads were a big deal for my budding bread business. Some days I sold 75 of those little suckers, at $2 a pop. That was big for me at the time, scraping by as I was. It meant another couple hundred bucks a week, and it meant I could keep diving deeper into bread.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Erin Kunkel's photographs are beautifully appetite-whetting, and work hard to make bread sexy (mmmm, drip that honey...). Gorgeous as they are, though, they often leave holes when it comes to illustrating the recipes step by step. Certain key steps, like the stretch-and-fold techniques used for kneading and shaping, are described but not photographed, which could be a drawback for those who haven't seen these less familiar techniques demonstrated in person. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sometimes, Baker's chattiness and his need to anxiously reassure his readers that, really, anybody can do this and bread-baking isn't as hard as you think can get in the way of necessary detail. The Sesame Bread recipe starts with a whole-wheat pre-ferment of whole wheat flour, water, and a small amount of yeast. This rough, batter-like dough rises for 12 hours, and then the reader is instructed to simply mix in the next ingredients--bread flour, sesame seeds, water, salt. But what I got was a white dough ribboned like marble cake with brown whole-wheat pre-ferment, a unhomogenized mixture that needs serious beating to blend. Based on experience with other bread books, I realized it would have made much more sense to break the pre-ferment down in water like a batter, then expand it bit by bit with white flour to make a smooth dough. The explanations for stretching and turning the dough--a gentler version of kneading that works better for the slack, slow-risen doughs used here--could also use more clarification. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Still, Baker does his best to get novice bakers excited about the prospect of turning out serious bread. There are useful tips, like the need for pre-soaking seeds before adding (otherwise, they'll suck up excess moisture in the dough, resulting in a dry loaf), and the ways that rye, spelt and kamut flours act differently from wheat. (I also plan to adopt his DIY baker's blade--a sharpened popsicle stick slid through the holes of a double-edged razor blade--as soon as possible, since a regular knife blade invariably sticks and tears with every attempt to slash through the top of a jiggly risen pillow of dough.) If you can handle the tone, Baker offers a lot of useful information here, without getting either as precise or technical as Robertson. While Robertson seems dubious that anyone but a fellow obsessive can master his meticulous and beautiful breads, Baker can't wait to share the joy he finds in all things bread-related. He's convinced that anyone--that means you, baker!--can make a sexy loaf, given a handful of techniques and a bread-dedicated 24 hours or so. Go ye forth, dude, and bake. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.penroseoakland.com/\">Penrose Restaurant\u003c/a> will be featuring a special menu and booksigning for Josey Baker Bread on June 6, 5:30-10:30pm.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82824\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 700px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/Josey-Baker-Bread_Adventure-Bread700.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/Josey-Baker-Bread_Adventure-Bread700.jpg\" alt=\"Josey Baker Adventure Bread. Photo: Erin Kunkel\" width=\"700\" height=\"1050\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82824\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Josey Baker Adventure Bread. Photo: Erin Kunkel\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Adventure Bread\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Adapted from \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1452113688/kqedorg-20\">Josey Baker Bread\u003c/a> by Josey Baker (Chronicle Books, 2014).\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sometimes you need a bread that is so dense, so hearty, so jam-packed full of seeds and grains (and devoid of air) that it will sustain you on your mightiest of adventures. That’s what this bread is for. But that’s not all it is for . . . it’s also gluten-free! That will either entice you or turn you off, but either way I really hope that you give it a shot because it is incredible, and it is suuuper healthy. It’s unlike any other bread in this book, in that there isn’t even any flour in it, and it isn’t fermented—it’s basically just a bunch of seeds held together with a little bit of psyllium seed husk and chia seeds. I started making it in the bakery because we kept having folks come in and ask us for gluten-free bread, and I got tired of saying no. Up until we made this bread, I had mostly been turned off by gluten-free breads, because it seemed like they were all just trying to imitate wheat breads, and failing miserably. But this bread stands on its own—it is gluten-free and proud of it. Special thanks goes out to Sarah Britton, blogger at My New Roots; her recipe inspired this bread.\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>2 1/4 cups (235 gms) rolled oats\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 cup (160 gms) sunflower seeds\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 cup pumpkin seeds\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3/4 cup almonds, toasted and coarsely chopped\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3/4 cup flax seeds\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/3 cup (25 gm) psyllium seed husk\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3 tbsp chia seeds\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 tsp (12 gm) finely ground sea salt\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 tbsp maple syrup\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 cup olive oil\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 1/2 (600 gm) cups water\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003col>\n\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>Toast the seeds. Preheat your oven to 350°F/180°C. Spread the sunflower and pumpkin seeds on a baking sheet and toast until they start to brown, about 15 minutes, stirring halfway between baking.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Measure ingredients. Dump dry stuff into a big bowl. Then pour in all the wet stuff.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Mix it all up, scoop into pan. Oil a loaf pan (about 8\" x 4\", or 20cm x 10cm), and then mush up your “dough” real good with your strong hands or a big spoon. Take pride in your mush-job, this is all of the handling you’re going to do with this “dough.” Once it’s mixed real good, scoop it into your oiled pan and smooth out the top so it looks nice. Then stick that guy in the fridge and leave it alone for at least a few hours, up to a whole day.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Bake it. Put a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat to 400°F/200°C. Bake for about an hour or so, then take it out and gently remove the loaf from the pan. Let it cool on a cooling rack for at least 2 hours (YES, two whole hours). Don’t rush it here folks, this bread is D*E*N*S*E, and if you don’t wait for it to cool, it really won’t be as yummy.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Toast and eat. This bread is definitely best sliced nice and thin (around 1/2 inch/12 mm) and then toasted up and spread with whatever your heart desires. And don’t worry, if you’re adventuring somewhere without toaster access (like a gorgeous river in the middle of nowhere), it will still be scrumptious, I promise.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Want Your Cheese To Age Gracefully? Cowgirl Creamery's Got Tips",
"title": "Want Your Cheese To Age Gracefully? Cowgirl Creamery's Got Tips",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82617\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1599px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/cowgirl-creamery-01-1cf25f9bae41cda574d25ae0a38cc6a7b2c945e7.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/cowgirl-creamery-01-1cf25f9bae41cda574d25ae0a38cc6a7b2c945e7.jpg\" alt=\"Sue Conley (left) and Peggy Smith, co-founders of Cowgirl Creamery, prepare their chilled spring garlic and asparagus soup with creme fraiche and fresh ricotta at Cowgirl Creamery in Point Reyes Station, Calif. Photo: Tim Hussin for NPR\" width=\"1599\" height=\"1198\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82617\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sue Conley (left) and Peggy Smith, co-founders of Cowgirl Creamery, prepare their chilled spring garlic and asparagus soup with creme fraiche and fresh ricotta at Cowgirl Creamery in Point Reyes Station, Calif. Photo: Tim Hussin for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/05/28/313146276/want-your-cheese-to-age-gracefully-cowgirl-creamery-s-got-tips\">Morning Edition\u003c/a> [audio src=\"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2014/05/20140528_me_want_your_cheese_to_age_gracefully_cowgirl_creamerys_got_tips.mp3\"] \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/125167196/npr-staff/archive\">NPR Staff\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/05/28/313146276/want-your-cheese-to-age-gracefully-cowgirl-creamery-s-got-tips\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (5/28/14)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the world of cheese, much like in the world of wine, the ultimate mark of success is acceptance by the French. That's exactly what happened to Sue Conley and Peggy Smith, co-founders of Cowgirl Creamery in northern California.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/books/titles/316471814/cowgirl-creamery-cooks\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/cowgirl-creamery-cooks.jpg\" alt=\"cowgirl-creamery-cooks\" width=\"300\" height=\"402\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-82634\">\u003c/a>In 2010, when they were inducted into the prestigious Guilde des Fromagers, they were among the first wave of American cheesemakers to join its ranks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cowgirl Creamery also put out its first cookbook in late 2013.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Morning Edition's\u003c/em> Renee Montagne met up with Sue Conley and Peggy Smith at their creamery in Point Reyes Station, a postage stamp of a place north of San Francisco where the wind seems to let up only to let in the fog.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Their journey to the pinnacle of the cheese world began at the University of Tennessee, where they became fast friends in the early 1970s. It continued a few years later on a road trip west to San Francisco.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the book, they write about driving a little car across the Golden Gate Bridge on July 4, 1976, which was the bicentennial. And at that very moment, there was a revolution in food going on here in the Bay Area.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"When we came out to California, people were really interested in ingredients and techniques,\" says Smith.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"And then the range of food that was available here, the natural food where you could buy things at the neighborhood co-op that were in bins, and funky apples from somebody's tree, and just a much different food scene,\" says Conley. \"So we both kind of got interested in the profession of cooking, also cheesemaking. When we started, there were four or five cheesemakers in Sonoma and Marin [counties], and today there are 30.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>John Taylor runs Bivalve Dairy in Marin with his wife, Karen, who's a sixth-generation California dairy farmer. Their cows supply milk to the creamery for one signature cheese with a reddish rind, called Red Hawk, named after the red-tailed hawk.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82618\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1796px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/cowgirl-creamery-4_wide-3b17f4748cfe06d6241b544e473c00e17ac010f2.jpg\" alt=\"Jose Gonzalez monitors the cows at Bivalve Dairy as they walk to be milked at the farm near Point Reyes Station, Calif. Photo: Tim Hussin for NPR\" width=\"1796\" height=\"1011\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82618\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jose Gonzalez monitors the cows at Bivalve Dairy as they walk to be milked at the farm near Point Reyes Station, Calif. Photo: Tim Hussin for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"Right now is the middle of our pasture season, our grazing season, so the cows are going out twice a day out to pastures,\" he says. \"So there's a lot of walking involved with these cows.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In spring, clovers, rye grass and barley all make their way into the cow's pasture buffet. That organic snacking yields some especially flavorful milk.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82619\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/cowgirl-creamery-5-6655aa0802859b11b373577730685ac2f0de5a93.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/cowgirl-creamery-5-6655aa0802859b11b373577730685ac2f0de5a93-290x217.jpg\" alt=\"John Taylor of Bivalve Dairy outside the milking barn near Point Reyes Station, Calif. Cowgirl Creamery uses the organic milk from Bivalve in its Red Hawk cheese. Photo: Tim Hussin for NPR\" width=\"290\" height=\"217\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-82619\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">John Taylor of Bivalve Dairy outside the milking barn near Point Reyes Station, Calif. Cowgirl Creamery uses the organic milk from Bivalve in its Red Hawk cheese. Photo: Tim Hussin for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"As we taste the milk off of our ranch, at certain times of year they will have different flavors depending on the grass component,\" says Taylor. \"So when the cows go out to graze in the early spring and into the summer, there's some phenomenal flavors that come out. And ultimately, what we're trying to do is partner up with Cowgirl so we can get those flavors into the cheese.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Between the dairy and the dinner plate, the semisoft Red Hawk cheese goes through quite a process.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Inside the washing room, a group of workers are leaning over tubs of salty brine, scrubbing off white, fluffy mold from small wheels of cheese.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"White mold — it's protecting the cheese in its first stage of aging,\" says Conley. \"But it's also bringing in that beautiful white mushroom flavor, and then the red rind imparts almost an anchovy, beefy kind of complex flavor.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Red Hawk has won a lot of awards. And it was created by accident.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the early years of Cowgirl Creamery, a visiting cheesemonger from England helped Conley and Smith set up their shop.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She brought along that most British of cheeses: a Stilton, which contains microscopic mites on the rind to help age it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This cheesemonger set her cheese down next to a wheel of Conley's cheese, \"and the mites jumped off of the Stilton onto my rind, and they started eating away at the white mold,\" says Conley. \"I brushed them off, but what it did was it killed all of the white mold and encouraged a wild bacteria to grow, which is bacterium linen. So that bacterium just went wild and grew over all the cheese, and I just got frustrated and moved it to the back of the aging room.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And it might have ended there.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But a few weeks later, their friendly English cheesemonger decided to give it a taste and pronounced what became the famous Red Hawk the best thing the cowgirls had ever made.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82620\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/cowgirl-creamery-2-7ea18dc2c410c71a989252a16284aa0cf29a5577.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/cowgirl-creamery-2-7ea18dc2c410c71a989252a16284aa0cf29a5577-290x217.jpg\" alt=\"Matt Brown (left) and Paige Juneau wash Red Hawk cheese at Cowgirl Creamery. Red Hawk is a washed-rind cheese that Cowgirl Creamery developed by accident. Photo: Tim Hussin for NPR\" width=\"290\" height=\"217\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-82620\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Matt Brown (left) and Paige Juneau wash Red Hawk cheese at Cowgirl Creamery. Red Hawk is a washed-rind cheese that Cowgirl Creamery developed by accident. Photo: Tim Hussin for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Mold, mites and wild bacteria all have their role in making Red Hawk and other great cheeses.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But when it comes to storing cheese, the cowgirls have some tips.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The first thing we say is only buy as much as you're gonna eat in the next couple days,\" says Smith.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And the key to keeping cheese fresh is to immediately remove its plastic packaging and wrap it in wax or parchment paper. Conley puts it in the vegetable crisper so it doesn't dry out.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The other rule that we have is after you've left it for two weeks,\" says Conley, \"you've bought too much, because you couldn't follow Peggy's directions. So now you have like four expensive bits of dried cheese in your refrigerator. So we recommend never throwing that away.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Smith says: \"Grate 'em up and mix 'em in, and make a grilled cheese. Because we always think more than one cheese in a grilled cheese is really good. It evenly distributes it, but it's not heavy, thick cheese, so when you bite into it, it's lighter, but you get all those flavors.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another way to use Red Hawk is to throw it into a potato gratin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"When people smell Red Hawk, they think, 'Oh, my gosh, I can't eat that. It's too strong,' so we thought, well, we'd put it in a potato gratin, where it's really mellow,\" says Smith. \"The cheese sort of melts into the potato because it's a little bit porous, and I think it mingles more with the potato than just as a standalone.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: Red Hawk Potato Gratin from \u003cem>Cowgirl Creamery Cooks\u003c/em>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Serves 6 to 8\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Because we love Red Hawk as a table cheese, we rarely cook with it, but this recipe is really good. This is the recipe our customers request most often.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons unsalted butter\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 medium yellow onion, julienned\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 garlic cloves, diced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup heavy cream\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 ounces Parmesan cheese, grated\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 pounds Yukon gold potatoes, peeled and thinly sliced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>10 ounces Red Hawk cheese, cut into 16 wedges\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preheat the oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit. Heat a cast-iron skillet or saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the butter and olive oil to the pan. When the butter has melted, add the onion and garlic and saute until soft, about 5 minutes. Take the pan off the heat and add the cream and half of the Parmesan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Transfer half of the onion-cream mixture to a glass 13-by-9-inch baking dish or casserole. Arrange half the thin potato slices in an overlapping, flat layer on top of the mixture, and then top with 8 of the Red Hawk wedges. Add the remaining potatoes, layering them evenly, the remaining half of the Red Hawk, and the remaining onion-cream mixture. Sprinkle with the remaining Parmesan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cover the dish with aluminum foil and bake for 45 minutes. Remove the foil and bake until the top is browned and bubbly, about 30 minutes. Let the casserole cool for 10 to 20 minutes. Serve while still warm. (This can be made a few days ahead and stored, tightly covered, in the fridge if you like. Reheat, covered, at 350 degrees for about 10 to 15 minutes.)\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: Cowgirl Creamery's Chilled Spring Garlic and Asparagus Soup with Crème Fraîche and Fresh Ricotta\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Serves 4\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>The delicate flavor of spring garlic forms the base of this soup. Choose young, tender asparagus for this: You don't puree the asparagus but slice and add it to the soup base just before serving.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>To drain ricotta, gently place the cheese in a colander. Don't worry — it holds its mass and will drain.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82621\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1500px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/cowgirl-creamery-3_sq-84b656cbea3395ba3e0eacab0d1aae061b0030af.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/cowgirl-creamery-3_sq-84b656cbea3395ba3e0eacab0d1aae061b0030af.jpg\" alt=\"A chilled spring garlic and asparagus soup with creme fraiche and fresh ricotta sits on a counter at Cowgirl Creamery in Point Reyes Station, Calif. Photo: Tim Hussin for NPR\" width=\"1500\" height=\"1500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82621\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A chilled spring garlic and asparagus soup with creme fraiche and fresh ricotta sits on a counter at Cowgirl Creamery in Point Reyes Station, Calif. Photo: Tim Hussin for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>3 medium spring garlic (with bulbs and stem), halved lengthwise\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon unsalted butter\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/2 cups peeled, diced Yukon gold potatoes\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/2 cups diced yellow onions\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 cups chicken or vegetable stock\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup crème fraîche\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>12 tender asparagus spears\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup fresh, drained ricotta cheese\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon coarse sea salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Freshly ground black pepper\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon chopped fresh garlic chives\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Thoroughly clean the spring garlic halves under cold running water. Dice the garlic bulb and any section of the leafy green stem that is soft and pliable. Dice as much spring garlic as needed to produce 1 cup of diced garlic.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a medium pot with a lid, add the butter, and melt over medium heat. When it's melted, add the diced garlic, potatoes and onions. Cook in the covered pot, stirring often and covering between stirrings, until the potatoes are fork-tender and the onions are completely translucent and soft, about 8 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Add the stock to the pot, and bring the mixture to a simmer. Cook for 5 to 10 minutes, keeping the liquid at a simmer while the ingredients come together. Remove from the heat and stir in the crème fraîche. While the soup cools slightly, set up an ice bath by filling a large bowl with ice and water.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Carefully puree the soup in a blender or food processor. Pour the puree into a container, cover, and set the container in the ice bath in the refrigerator. Place four soup bowls in the refrigerator to chill.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While the soup chills, prepare the asparagus. Snap off the woody stems and blanch the spears. Slice off the tip of each spear and set aside to use as a garnish. Cut the rest of each stalk crosswise into rounds. Slice the ricotta into bite-size cubes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When the soup base is chilled, stir in the asparagus rounds and salt and season with pepper. Halve the asparagus tips lengthwise.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To serve, ladle the soup into the chilled bowls, add the ricotta cubes and asparagus tips to each bowl, and finish with a sprinkling of garlic chives.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Many people like to dunk their asparagus in ice water as soon as it comes from the pot. We prefer to blanch the stalks until they're not quite as tender as you'd like them to be. Taste while you blanch, and watch the vegetable's color: when it turns bright green, take a stalk from the pot and taste. If it's almost tender with just a hint of crispness, it's ready.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As soon as you take the stalks from the water, dry them quickly with a paper towel or clean kitchen towel and then dress them with extra-virgin olive oil, salt, and pepper. The asparagus absorbs the seasonings better if you do this while the stalks are still warm.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Very fat asparagus can sometimes have a woody stem. Use a vegetable peeler to lightly peel off the skin just from the point where the stalks seem woody. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "The co-founders of Cowgirl Creamery were among the first American cheesemakers to be recognized by the prestigious French cheese guild. So they know a thing or two about storing and using old cheese.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82617\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1599px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/cowgirl-creamery-01-1cf25f9bae41cda574d25ae0a38cc6a7b2c945e7.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/cowgirl-creamery-01-1cf25f9bae41cda574d25ae0a38cc6a7b2c945e7.jpg\" alt=\"Sue Conley (left) and Peggy Smith, co-founders of Cowgirl Creamery, prepare their chilled spring garlic and asparagus soup with creme fraiche and fresh ricotta at Cowgirl Creamery in Point Reyes Station, Calif. Photo: Tim Hussin for NPR\" width=\"1599\" height=\"1198\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82617\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sue Conley (left) and Peggy Smith, co-founders of Cowgirl Creamery, prepare their chilled spring garlic and asparagus soup with creme fraiche and fresh ricotta at Cowgirl Creamery in Point Reyes Station, Calif. Photo: Tim Hussin for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/05/28/313146276/want-your-cheese-to-age-gracefully-cowgirl-creamery-s-got-tips\">Morning Edition\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/125167196/npr-staff/archive\">NPR Staff\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/05/28/313146276/want-your-cheese-to-age-gracefully-cowgirl-creamery-s-got-tips\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (5/28/14)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the world of cheese, much like in the world of wine, the ultimate mark of success is acceptance by the French. That's exactly what happened to Sue Conley and Peggy Smith, co-founders of Cowgirl Creamery in northern California.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/books/titles/316471814/cowgirl-creamery-cooks\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/cowgirl-creamery-cooks.jpg\" alt=\"cowgirl-creamery-cooks\" width=\"300\" height=\"402\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-82634\">\u003c/a>In 2010, when they were inducted into the prestigious Guilde des Fromagers, they were among the first wave of American cheesemakers to join its ranks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cowgirl Creamery also put out its first cookbook in late 2013.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Morning Edition's\u003c/em> Renee Montagne met up with Sue Conley and Peggy Smith at their creamery in Point Reyes Station, a postage stamp of a place north of San Francisco where the wind seems to let up only to let in the fog.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Their journey to the pinnacle of the cheese world began at the University of Tennessee, where they became fast friends in the early 1970s. It continued a few years later on a road trip west to San Francisco.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the book, they write about driving a little car across the Golden Gate Bridge on July 4, 1976, which was the bicentennial. And at that very moment, there was a revolution in food going on here in the Bay Area.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"When we came out to California, people were really interested in ingredients and techniques,\" says Smith.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"And then the range of food that was available here, the natural food where you could buy things at the neighborhood co-op that were in bins, and funky apples from somebody's tree, and just a much different food scene,\" says Conley. \"So we both kind of got interested in the profession of cooking, also cheesemaking. When we started, there were four or five cheesemakers in Sonoma and Marin [counties], and today there are 30.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>John Taylor runs Bivalve Dairy in Marin with his wife, Karen, who's a sixth-generation California dairy farmer. Their cows supply milk to the creamery for one signature cheese with a reddish rind, called Red Hawk, named after the red-tailed hawk.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82618\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1796px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/cowgirl-creamery-4_wide-3b17f4748cfe06d6241b544e473c00e17ac010f2.jpg\" alt=\"Jose Gonzalez monitors the cows at Bivalve Dairy as they walk to be milked at the farm near Point Reyes Station, Calif. Photo: Tim Hussin for NPR\" width=\"1796\" height=\"1011\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82618\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jose Gonzalez monitors the cows at Bivalve Dairy as they walk to be milked at the farm near Point Reyes Station, Calif. Photo: Tim Hussin for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"Right now is the middle of our pasture season, our grazing season, so the cows are going out twice a day out to pastures,\" he says. \"So there's a lot of walking involved with these cows.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In spring, clovers, rye grass and barley all make their way into the cow's pasture buffet. That organic snacking yields some especially flavorful milk.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82619\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/cowgirl-creamery-5-6655aa0802859b11b373577730685ac2f0de5a93.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/cowgirl-creamery-5-6655aa0802859b11b373577730685ac2f0de5a93-290x217.jpg\" alt=\"John Taylor of Bivalve Dairy outside the milking barn near Point Reyes Station, Calif. Cowgirl Creamery uses the organic milk from Bivalve in its Red Hawk cheese. Photo: Tim Hussin for NPR\" width=\"290\" height=\"217\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-82619\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">John Taylor of Bivalve Dairy outside the milking barn near Point Reyes Station, Calif. Cowgirl Creamery uses the organic milk from Bivalve in its Red Hawk cheese. Photo: Tim Hussin for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"As we taste the milk off of our ranch, at certain times of year they will have different flavors depending on the grass component,\" says Taylor. \"So when the cows go out to graze in the early spring and into the summer, there's some phenomenal flavors that come out. And ultimately, what we're trying to do is partner up with Cowgirl so we can get those flavors into the cheese.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Between the dairy and the dinner plate, the semisoft Red Hawk cheese goes through quite a process.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Inside the washing room, a group of workers are leaning over tubs of salty brine, scrubbing off white, fluffy mold from small wheels of cheese.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"White mold — it's protecting the cheese in its first stage of aging,\" says Conley. \"But it's also bringing in that beautiful white mushroom flavor, and then the red rind imparts almost an anchovy, beefy kind of complex flavor.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Red Hawk has won a lot of awards. And it was created by accident.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the early years of Cowgirl Creamery, a visiting cheesemonger from England helped Conley and Smith set up their shop.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She brought along that most British of cheeses: a Stilton, which contains microscopic mites on the rind to help age it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This cheesemonger set her cheese down next to a wheel of Conley's cheese, \"and the mites jumped off of the Stilton onto my rind, and they started eating away at the white mold,\" says Conley. \"I brushed them off, but what it did was it killed all of the white mold and encouraged a wild bacteria to grow, which is bacterium linen. So that bacterium just went wild and grew over all the cheese, and I just got frustrated and moved it to the back of the aging room.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And it might have ended there.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But a few weeks later, their friendly English cheesemonger decided to give it a taste and pronounced what became the famous Red Hawk the best thing the cowgirls had ever made.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82620\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/cowgirl-creamery-2-7ea18dc2c410c71a989252a16284aa0cf29a5577.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/cowgirl-creamery-2-7ea18dc2c410c71a989252a16284aa0cf29a5577-290x217.jpg\" alt=\"Matt Brown (left) and Paige Juneau wash Red Hawk cheese at Cowgirl Creamery. Red Hawk is a washed-rind cheese that Cowgirl Creamery developed by accident. Photo: Tim Hussin for NPR\" width=\"290\" height=\"217\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-82620\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Matt Brown (left) and Paige Juneau wash Red Hawk cheese at Cowgirl Creamery. Red Hawk is a washed-rind cheese that Cowgirl Creamery developed by accident. Photo: Tim Hussin for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Mold, mites and wild bacteria all have their role in making Red Hawk and other great cheeses.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But when it comes to storing cheese, the cowgirls have some tips.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The first thing we say is only buy as much as you're gonna eat in the next couple days,\" says Smith.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And the key to keeping cheese fresh is to immediately remove its plastic packaging and wrap it in wax or parchment paper. Conley puts it in the vegetable crisper so it doesn't dry out.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The other rule that we have is after you've left it for two weeks,\" says Conley, \"you've bought too much, because you couldn't follow Peggy's directions. So now you have like four expensive bits of dried cheese in your refrigerator. So we recommend never throwing that away.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Smith says: \"Grate 'em up and mix 'em in, and make a grilled cheese. Because we always think more than one cheese in a grilled cheese is really good. It evenly distributes it, but it's not heavy, thick cheese, so when you bite into it, it's lighter, but you get all those flavors.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another way to use Red Hawk is to throw it into a potato gratin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"When people smell Red Hawk, they think, 'Oh, my gosh, I can't eat that. It's too strong,' so we thought, well, we'd put it in a potato gratin, where it's really mellow,\" says Smith. \"The cheese sort of melts into the potato because it's a little bit porous, and I think it mingles more with the potato than just as a standalone.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: Red Hawk Potato Gratin from \u003cem>Cowgirl Creamery Cooks\u003c/em>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Serves 6 to 8\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Because we love Red Hawk as a table cheese, we rarely cook with it, but this recipe is really good. This is the recipe our customers request most often.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons unsalted butter\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 medium yellow onion, julienned\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 garlic cloves, diced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup heavy cream\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 ounces Parmesan cheese, grated\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 pounds Yukon gold potatoes, peeled and thinly sliced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>10 ounces Red Hawk cheese, cut into 16 wedges\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preheat the oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit. Heat a cast-iron skillet or saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the butter and olive oil to the pan. When the butter has melted, add the onion and garlic and saute until soft, about 5 minutes. Take the pan off the heat and add the cream and half of the Parmesan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Transfer half of the onion-cream mixture to a glass 13-by-9-inch baking dish or casserole. Arrange half the thin potato slices in an overlapping, flat layer on top of the mixture, and then top with 8 of the Red Hawk wedges. Add the remaining potatoes, layering them evenly, the remaining half of the Red Hawk, and the remaining onion-cream mixture. Sprinkle with the remaining Parmesan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cover the dish with aluminum foil and bake for 45 minutes. Remove the foil and bake until the top is browned and bubbly, about 30 minutes. Let the casserole cool for 10 to 20 minutes. Serve while still warm. (This can be made a few days ahead and stored, tightly covered, in the fridge if you like. Reheat, covered, at 350 degrees for about 10 to 15 minutes.)\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: Cowgirl Creamery's Chilled Spring Garlic and Asparagus Soup with Crème Fraîche and Fresh Ricotta\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Serves 4\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>The delicate flavor of spring garlic forms the base of this soup. Choose young, tender asparagus for this: You don't puree the asparagus but slice and add it to the soup base just before serving.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>To drain ricotta, gently place the cheese in a colander. Don't worry — it holds its mass and will drain.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82621\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1500px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/cowgirl-creamery-3_sq-84b656cbea3395ba3e0eacab0d1aae061b0030af.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/cowgirl-creamery-3_sq-84b656cbea3395ba3e0eacab0d1aae061b0030af.jpg\" alt=\"A chilled spring garlic and asparagus soup with creme fraiche and fresh ricotta sits on a counter at Cowgirl Creamery in Point Reyes Station, Calif. Photo: Tim Hussin for NPR\" width=\"1500\" height=\"1500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82621\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A chilled spring garlic and asparagus soup with creme fraiche and fresh ricotta sits on a counter at Cowgirl Creamery in Point Reyes Station, Calif. Photo: Tim Hussin for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>3 medium spring garlic (with bulbs and stem), halved lengthwise\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon unsalted butter\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/2 cups peeled, diced Yukon gold potatoes\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/2 cups diced yellow onions\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 cups chicken or vegetable stock\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup crème fraîche\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>12 tender asparagus spears\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup fresh, drained ricotta cheese\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon coarse sea salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Freshly ground black pepper\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon chopped fresh garlic chives\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Thoroughly clean the spring garlic halves under cold running water. Dice the garlic bulb and any section of the leafy green stem that is soft and pliable. Dice as much spring garlic as needed to produce 1 cup of diced garlic.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a medium pot with a lid, add the butter, and melt over medium heat. When it's melted, add the diced garlic, potatoes and onions. Cook in the covered pot, stirring often and covering between stirrings, until the potatoes are fork-tender and the onions are completely translucent and soft, about 8 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Add the stock to the pot, and bring the mixture to a simmer. Cook for 5 to 10 minutes, keeping the liquid at a simmer while the ingredients come together. Remove from the heat and stir in the crème fraîche. While the soup cools slightly, set up an ice bath by filling a large bowl with ice and water.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Carefully puree the soup in a blender or food processor. Pour the puree into a container, cover, and set the container in the ice bath in the refrigerator. Place four soup bowls in the refrigerator to chill.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While the soup chills, prepare the asparagus. Snap off the woody stems and blanch the spears. Slice off the tip of each spear and set aside to use as a garnish. Cut the rest of each stalk crosswise into rounds. Slice the ricotta into bite-size cubes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When the soup base is chilled, stir in the asparagus rounds and salt and season with pepper. Halve the asparagus tips lengthwise.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To serve, ladle the soup into the chilled bowls, add the ricotta cubes and asparagus tips to each bowl, and finish with a sprinkling of garlic chives.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Many people like to dunk their asparagus in ice water as soon as it comes from the pot. We prefer to blanch the stalks until they're not quite as tender as you'd like them to be. Taste while you blanch, and watch the vegetable's color: when it turns bright green, take a stalk from the pot and taste. If it's almost tender with just a hint of crispness, it's ready.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As soon as you take the stalks from the water, dry them quickly with a paper towel or clean kitchen towel and then dress them with extra-virgin olive oil, salt, and pepper. The asparagus absorbs the seasonings better if you do this while the stalks are still warm.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Very fat asparagus can sometimes have a woody stem. Use a vegetable peeler to lightly peel off the skin just from the point where the stalks seem woody. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "On the Trail of Durian, Southeast Asia's 'Crème Brûlée on a Tree'",
"title": "On the Trail of Durian, Southeast Asia's 'Crème Brûlée on a Tree'",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82398\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1800px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/red-graveolens-edit1_enl-29f6a7fbca7717830389f8023945803dfbb65a7b.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-82398\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/red-graveolens-edit1_enl-29f6a7fbca7717830389f8023945803dfbb65a7b.jpg\" alt=\"The inside of the Graveolens, a variety of durian that grows in the southernmost parts of Thailand, is sticky and cheese-like. Photo: Courtesy of Lindsay Gasik\" width=\"1800\" height=\"1198\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The inside of the Graveolens, a variety of durian that grows in the southernmost parts of Thailand, is sticky and cheese-like. Photo: Courtesy of Lindsay Gasik\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Alastair Bland, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/05/21/314529503/on-the-trail-of-durian-southeast-asias-cr-me-br-l-e-on-a-tree\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (5/21/2014)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What if a single taste of one fruit — in this case, the durian — changed the course of your entire life?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That's what happened to Lindsay Gasik and Rob Culclasure, a young couple who visited an Asian grocery store in Eugene, Ore., in 2009 in search of the football-sized fruit with thick, spiky skin. They were curious to try it after hearing that the durian's pungent smell and custard-like flesh had the power to drive people delirious with craving.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82399\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1500px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/profile-pic-edit-82f3a2cec9f74cc04f66a9528c155a1a345200c3.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-82399\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/profile-pic-edit-82f3a2cec9f74cc04f66a9528c155a1a345200c3.jpg\" alt=\"Lindsay Gasik and Rob Culclasure moved to Asia in 2012 to pursue durians. Photo: Courtesy of Lindsay Gasik\" width=\"1500\" height=\"1124\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Lindsay Gasik and Rob Culclasure moved to Asia in 2012 to pursue durians. Photo: Courtesy of Lindsay Gasik\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The moment Gasik and Culclasure inhaled the fruit's gassy aroma of fermented pineapple and onion and tasted its cool, creamy, vanilla-flavored flesh, they were hopelessly hooked. Now, after years of traveling through Southeast Asia tracking down and eating durian almost daily, they have become experts on the fruit. And for other travelers who catch durian fever, Gasik has written a \u003ca href=\"http://www.yearofthedurian.com/p/our-ebooks.html#.U3zZc3JdXTo\">durian travel guide to Thailand\u003c/a>, which comes out in June.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Five years into their obsession, Gasik tells The Salt they're as enthralled with the durian as ever.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's very sensual — the thorny texture, intense aroma, bizarre appearance and amazing range of flavors found in no other fruit or natural food,\" Gasik tells us by email from Bangkok. \"Durian is the only fruit in the world that I know of that combines a very high sugar content with a high fat content. It's like crème brûlée on a tree.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82400\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1599px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/durian-tree-83ad8d1bc9d21a01cbc793a420c25f3d3c1dd58e.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-82400\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/durian-tree-83ad8d1bc9d21a01cbc793a420c25f3d3c1dd58e.jpg\" alt=\"Durian fruit hangs from a tree. Courtesy of Lindsay Gasik\" width=\"1599\" height=\"1198\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Durian fruit hangs from a tree. Courtesy of Lindsay Gasik\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Since the couple departed for Asia in 2012 to pursue durians nearly full-time, they've eaten the fruit in 13 countries, including Malaysia, Vietnam, Myanmar and Australia. Along the way, they visited remote orchards and wild jungles and enjoyed all-you-can-eat durian feasts at roadside stands. And they documented it all on their blog, \u003ca href=\"http://www.yearofthedurian.com/p/first-durian-start-here.html#.U3Zce2FOWT0\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Year of the Durian\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Thailand, they say, is ground zero for durian diversity and abundance. More than 200 varieties are grown here, and the country's orchards produce more durians by far than any other nation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Thing is, most visitors to Thailand never experience the country's traditional durian culture of roadside stands and small farms open to the public.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"So few travelers venture away from the tourist-friendly beaches and neon cities that great swaths of the country are left virtually untouched by the tourism industry and its vices,\" Gasik writes in \u003cem>The Durian Tourist's Guide to Thailand\u003c/em>. \"This is where durian grows.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The guide provides everything you need to know for a durian-centric vacation, like how to harvest the fruit on organic farms, avoid durians that have been doused by pesticides and even arrange lodging in idyllic orchard guesthouses.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In Nakhon Nayok, durian seekers can find an organic orchard where a dedicated farmer has preserved 50 rare varieties of the fruit, while Chantaburi province may be worth a visit for the annual World Durian Festival.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Seasons in the tropics are unpredictable, and fruit trees can be, too. This means you can't find durians just anywhere, anytime. In central and eastern Thailand, Gasik's guidebook tells us, durians are usually available March through June; in the south, durians ripen and drop from the trees almost all year long.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82401\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1200px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/longlaplae-edit_enl-9bf8b92f000fc53f7aac5c630221292efa1c2db1.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-82401\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/longlaplae-edit_enl-9bf8b92f000fc53f7aac5c630221292efa1c2db1.jpg\" alt=\"The Longlaplae is a milder tasting durian with almost no aroma. Photo: Courtesy of Lindsay Gasik\" width=\"1200\" height=\"790\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Longlaplae is a milder tasting durian with almost no aroma. Photo: Courtesy of Lindsay Gasik\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The guide also provides some vocabulary and phraseology basics. \"\u003cem>Chun/Pom thong gan ja gin turian\u003c/em>,\" for instance, means \"I want to eat durian.\" That should help get you moving in the right direction once you've left the Bangkok airport.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You'll want Gasik's tips on the tact and etiquette of eating durians in Thailand, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"[Eating durian with bare hands] is considered fairly bad manners,\" Gasik writes, so many locals use rubber gloves. If you have to go bare, don't shake hands or touch anyone until you've washed your hands.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82402\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1500px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/puangmanee-inside-edit-cbb5a9dacdc8775af41bb3fe6ecc2cf30b33ddd8.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-82402\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/puangmanee-inside-edit-cbb5a9dacdc8775af41bb3fe6ecc2cf30b33ddd8.jpg\" alt=\"According to Gasik, the Puangmanee durian's flesh has "a smooth, chocolatey sensation." Courtesy of Lindsay Gasik\" width=\"1500\" height=\"1124\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">According to Gasik, the Puangmanee durian's flesh has \"a smooth, chocolatey sensation.\" Courtesy of Lindsay Gasik\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Nor should you take a durian into a closed public space; many people – even people who've been around durian their whole life — simply cannot bear the smell.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For durian beginners, the Monthong, a sweet and creamy variety grown for export to countries like the U.S., is a good starting point. The Longlaplae, too, has a mild, milky flavor and virtually no aroma.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But there's much, much more out there for those willing to venture deeper into the durian flavor spectrum.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Thai durians come in flavors ranging from vanilla or butterscotch custard to milk chocolate, caramelized onions, or even a sulfurous egg-iness relished by those with a thing for the savory,\" Gasik writes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Puangmanee durian – found in the Chantaburi province – has yellow-orange flesh \"with a smooth, chocolatey sensation.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Ganyao, one of the most prized durians, has \"yellow, very dry, thick and smooth [flesh], comparable to an extremely rich frosting or moist cake.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the southernmost part of the country, there's a rare durian called the \u003ca href=\"http://www.yearofthedurian.com/2013/05/durio-graveolens.html#.U3k9P2FOWT0\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Graveolens\u003c/a> with what Gasik describes as \"lipstick red flesh\" so rich, sticky and cheese-like that it can be difficult to swallow.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>More intrepid seekers of the fruit can find wild durians \u003ca href=\"http://www.yearofthedurian.com/2013/04/durio-kinabaluensis.html#.U3bqOWFOWT0\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">in the jungle\u003c/a> growing from seed and without varietal names; they're referred to collectively as \u003cem>thurian ban\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And even Gasik and Culclasure have more new durians to taste. This summer, they're hoping for a chance at \"elephant dung durian.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Elephants often eat fallen durians off the ground, Gasik explains, and sometimes the entire fruit manages to pass through the animal unbroken. The flesh of these durians supposedly goes through a further ripening process that amplifies the taste.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"There's a guy in Malaysia who says he'll have some in July,\" Gasik says. \"I'm really, really excited.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82398\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1800px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/red-graveolens-edit1_enl-29f6a7fbca7717830389f8023945803dfbb65a7b.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-82398\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/red-graveolens-edit1_enl-29f6a7fbca7717830389f8023945803dfbb65a7b.jpg\" alt=\"The inside of the Graveolens, a variety of durian that grows in the southernmost parts of Thailand, is sticky and cheese-like. Photo: Courtesy of Lindsay Gasik\" width=\"1800\" height=\"1198\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The inside of the Graveolens, a variety of durian that grows in the southernmost parts of Thailand, is sticky and cheese-like. Photo: Courtesy of Lindsay Gasik\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Alastair Bland, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/05/21/314529503/on-the-trail-of-durian-southeast-asias-cr-me-br-l-e-on-a-tree\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (5/21/2014)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What if a single taste of one fruit — in this case, the durian — changed the course of your entire life?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That's what happened to Lindsay Gasik and Rob Culclasure, a young couple who visited an Asian grocery store in Eugene, Ore., in 2009 in search of the football-sized fruit with thick, spiky skin. They were curious to try it after hearing that the durian's pungent smell and custard-like flesh had the power to drive people delirious with craving.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82399\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1500px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/profile-pic-edit-82f3a2cec9f74cc04f66a9528c155a1a345200c3.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-82399\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/profile-pic-edit-82f3a2cec9f74cc04f66a9528c155a1a345200c3.jpg\" alt=\"Lindsay Gasik and Rob Culclasure moved to Asia in 2012 to pursue durians. Photo: Courtesy of Lindsay Gasik\" width=\"1500\" height=\"1124\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Lindsay Gasik and Rob Culclasure moved to Asia in 2012 to pursue durians. Photo: Courtesy of Lindsay Gasik\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The moment Gasik and Culclasure inhaled the fruit's gassy aroma of fermented pineapple and onion and tasted its cool, creamy, vanilla-flavored flesh, they were hopelessly hooked. Now, after years of traveling through Southeast Asia tracking down and eating durian almost daily, they have become experts on the fruit. And for other travelers who catch durian fever, Gasik has written a \u003ca href=\"http://www.yearofthedurian.com/p/our-ebooks.html#.U3zZc3JdXTo\">durian travel guide to Thailand\u003c/a>, which comes out in June.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Five years into their obsession, Gasik tells The Salt they're as enthralled with the durian as ever.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's very sensual — the thorny texture, intense aroma, bizarre appearance and amazing range of flavors found in no other fruit or natural food,\" Gasik tells us by email from Bangkok. \"Durian is the only fruit in the world that I know of that combines a very high sugar content with a high fat content. It's like crème brûlée on a tree.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82400\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1599px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/durian-tree-83ad8d1bc9d21a01cbc793a420c25f3d3c1dd58e.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-82400\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/durian-tree-83ad8d1bc9d21a01cbc793a420c25f3d3c1dd58e.jpg\" alt=\"Durian fruit hangs from a tree. Courtesy of Lindsay Gasik\" width=\"1599\" height=\"1198\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Durian fruit hangs from a tree. Courtesy of Lindsay Gasik\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Since the couple departed for Asia in 2012 to pursue durians nearly full-time, they've eaten the fruit in 13 countries, including Malaysia, Vietnam, Myanmar and Australia. Along the way, they visited remote orchards and wild jungles and enjoyed all-you-can-eat durian feasts at roadside stands. And they documented it all on their blog, \u003ca href=\"http://www.yearofthedurian.com/p/first-durian-start-here.html#.U3Zce2FOWT0\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Year of the Durian\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Thailand, they say, is ground zero for durian diversity and abundance. More than 200 varieties are grown here, and the country's orchards produce more durians by far than any other nation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Thing is, most visitors to Thailand never experience the country's traditional durian culture of roadside stands and small farms open to the public.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"So few travelers venture away from the tourist-friendly beaches and neon cities that great swaths of the country are left virtually untouched by the tourism industry and its vices,\" Gasik writes in \u003cem>The Durian Tourist's Guide to Thailand\u003c/em>. \"This is where durian grows.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The guide provides everything you need to know for a durian-centric vacation, like how to harvest the fruit on organic farms, avoid durians that have been doused by pesticides and even arrange lodging in idyllic orchard guesthouses.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In Nakhon Nayok, durian seekers can find an organic orchard where a dedicated farmer has preserved 50 rare varieties of the fruit, while Chantaburi province may be worth a visit for the annual World Durian Festival.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Seasons in the tropics are unpredictable, and fruit trees can be, too. This means you can't find durians just anywhere, anytime. In central and eastern Thailand, Gasik's guidebook tells us, durians are usually available March through June; in the south, durians ripen and drop from the trees almost all year long.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82401\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1200px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/longlaplae-edit_enl-9bf8b92f000fc53f7aac5c630221292efa1c2db1.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-82401\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/longlaplae-edit_enl-9bf8b92f000fc53f7aac5c630221292efa1c2db1.jpg\" alt=\"The Longlaplae is a milder tasting durian with almost no aroma. Photo: Courtesy of Lindsay Gasik\" width=\"1200\" height=\"790\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Longlaplae is a milder tasting durian with almost no aroma. Photo: Courtesy of Lindsay Gasik\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The guide also provides some vocabulary and phraseology basics. \"\u003cem>Chun/Pom thong gan ja gin turian\u003c/em>,\" for instance, means \"I want to eat durian.\" That should help get you moving in the right direction once you've left the Bangkok airport.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You'll want Gasik's tips on the tact and etiquette of eating durians in Thailand, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"[Eating durian with bare hands] is considered fairly bad manners,\" Gasik writes, so many locals use rubber gloves. If you have to go bare, don't shake hands or touch anyone until you've washed your hands.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82402\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1500px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/puangmanee-inside-edit-cbb5a9dacdc8775af41bb3fe6ecc2cf30b33ddd8.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-82402\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/puangmanee-inside-edit-cbb5a9dacdc8775af41bb3fe6ecc2cf30b33ddd8.jpg\" alt=\"According to Gasik, the Puangmanee durian's flesh has "a smooth, chocolatey sensation." Courtesy of Lindsay Gasik\" width=\"1500\" height=\"1124\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">According to Gasik, the Puangmanee durian's flesh has \"a smooth, chocolatey sensation.\" Courtesy of Lindsay Gasik\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Nor should you take a durian into a closed public space; many people – even people who've been around durian their whole life — simply cannot bear the smell.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For durian beginners, the Monthong, a sweet and creamy variety grown for export to countries like the U.S., is a good starting point. The Longlaplae, too, has a mild, milky flavor and virtually no aroma.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But there's much, much more out there for those willing to venture deeper into the durian flavor spectrum.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Thai durians come in flavors ranging from vanilla or butterscotch custard to milk chocolate, caramelized onions, or even a sulfurous egg-iness relished by those with a thing for the savory,\" Gasik writes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Puangmanee durian – found in the Chantaburi province – has yellow-orange flesh \"with a smooth, chocolatey sensation.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Ganyao, one of the most prized durians, has \"yellow, very dry, thick and smooth [flesh], comparable to an extremely rich frosting or moist cake.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the southernmost part of the country, there's a rare durian called the \u003ca href=\"http://www.yearofthedurian.com/2013/05/durio-graveolens.html#.U3k9P2FOWT0\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Graveolens\u003c/a> with what Gasik describes as \"lipstick red flesh\" so rich, sticky and cheese-like that it can be difficult to swallow.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>More intrepid seekers of the fruit can find wild durians \u003ca href=\"http://www.yearofthedurian.com/2013/04/durio-kinabaluensis.html#.U3bqOWFOWT0\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">in the jungle\u003c/a> growing from seed and without varietal names; they're referred to collectively as \u003cem>thurian ban\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And even Gasik and Culclasure have more new durians to taste. This summer, they're hoping for a chance at \"elephant dung durian.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Elephants often eat fallen durians off the ground, Gasik explains, and sometimes the entire fruit manages to pass through the animal unbroken. The flesh of these durians supposedly goes through a further ripening process that amplifies the taste.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"There's a guy in Malaysia who says he'll have some in July,\" Gasik says. \"I'm really, really excited.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Delicious!: A Novel, by Ruth Reichl -- Marshmallow Fiction from Gourmet's Former Editor",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82351\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 296px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/Delicious-JPG-Cover-image.jpeg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/Delicious-JPG-Cover-image.jpeg\" alt=\"Delicious! A Novel Photo: Courtesy of Ruth Reichl\" width=\"296\" height=\"450\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82351\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Delicious! A Novel Photo: Courtesy of Ruth Reichl\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>It couldn't have been easy for editor-in-chief Ruth Reichl when \u003cem>Gourmet\u003c/em>, the magazine she had run since 1999, was abruptly shuttered by parent company Conde Nast in 2009. The elegant monthly magazine had been in business since 1941, and Reichl had worked tirelessly for ten years to make it relevant in a rapidly changing gastronomic climate. As talented an editor and writer as Reichl was, however, she couldn't save \u003cem>Gourmet\u003c/em> from the publishing world's pessimistic number-crunchers. Conde Nast axed the once-glamorous \u003cem>Gourmet\u003c/em> in favor of its other food magazine, the bright, ad-generating, family-friendly \u003cem>\u003ca>Bon Appetit\u003c/a>\u003c/em>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With all her insider knowledge of New York's wildly competitive, ambition-driven, gossip-riddled restaurant and food world, one would expect to see Reichl tapping out her own tell-all of that heady time. After all, she has already written three best-selling, well-received and unflinchingly truthful memoirs, starting with \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0812981111/kqedorg-20\">Tender at the Bone\u003c/a>\u003c/em>, which described her childhood with a mentally disturbed, food-hording mother, followed by her freewheeling life as a hippie chef turned restaurant critic in 1970s California. \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0812981626/kqedorg-20\">Comfort Me with Apples\u003c/a>\u003c/em> had her touring Europe with \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.saveur.com/\">Saveur\u003c/a>\u003c/em> editor Colman Andrews, getting a sentimental and culinary education at his side. \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0143036610/kqedorg-20\">Garlic and Sapphires\u003c/a>\u003c/em> detailed her wig-wearing, persona-creating experiments as the all-powerful restaurant reviewer at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com\">New York Times\u003c/a>. Clearly, Reichl can write, and write well, on a variety of topics.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_25777\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/03/Ruth-Reichl-Photo300.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/03/Ruth-Reichl-Photo300.jpg\" alt=\"Ruth Reichl. Photo: Fiona Aboud\" width=\"300\" height=\"450\" class=\"size-full wp-image-25777\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ruth Reichl. Photo: Fiona Aboud\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>But while good novelists usually have the chops to be good memoirists, the reverse is not often true. Despite being based around a \u003cem>Gourmet\u003c/em> magazine stand-in named \u003cem>Delicious!\u003c/em>, Reichl's first foray into fiction, \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1400069629/kqedorg-20\">Delicious!\u003c/a>\u003c/em>, is less \u003cem>roman à clef\u003c/em> than Nancy Drew-ishly-plotted novel about an ugly duckling coming into her own in the big city. Fluffy, sweet, and wholly unbelievable, \u003cem>Delicious!\u003c/em> isn't being marketed as a young-adult book, but it might as well be, except that it's too sugary for a genre now dominated by dark, dystopian fantasies and sexed-up vampires. There's no devil wearing Prada here. Instead, everyone's gorgeous, everyone's charming, and (most unbelievable of all) everyone's friendly, eager to get instantly helpfully chummy with Reichl's frumpy little nobody of a heroine, Billie Breslin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Because isn't that \u003cem>exactly\u003c/em> what life is like in the New York media world? Billie shows up, a badly dressed college dropout with dorky glasses and baggy khakis, who suffers panic attacks when asked to cook, and suddenly the editor of the city's top food magazine wants her as his assistant. On her very first day, the glad-handing owner of the best Italian deli in the city hires her on the spot for a second job that turns into a second family. Within days, she's hanging out with her new magazine pals, drinking endless glasses of wine and scarfing up plates of duck hearts at their cool chef friends' new restaurants. Oh, and at the two-month point, that silver-fox editor takes her out for expensive sushi and assigns her a long feature story about the deli where she's working. Without asking permission from her deli-owner boss, she writes it, brilliantly, in a single all-nighter. And why worry about negligible publishing salaries when dad's paying the rent on that sweet walk-up on hipster-ridden Rivington Street? Even the character's name manages to evoke both \u003ca href=\"http://thebreslin.com/\">The Breslin\u003c/a>, a hot restaurant hangout helmed by Brit-chef April Bloomfield (fictionalized here as Thursday Brown, owner of The Pig, a hardly-disguised version of \u003ca href=\"http://thespottedpig.com/\">The Spotted Pig\u003c/a>, another of Bloomfield's popular restaurants) and the Pulitzer-Prize-winning, longtime NYC journalist Jimmy Breslin. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hired to answer the phone and fetch coffee, suddenly Billie's swimming in feature assignments involving cute farmers and voluble fishermen and fun travel all around the country, because that's just how brand-new careers go in the kooky New York magazine world. See, Billie has that one-in-a-million skill, the pitch-perfect palate. She can pick out a whisper of curry leaf in a spinach-saffron-Parmesan gnocchi that Thursday pops into her mouth the minute she walks into The Pig's crowded kitchen. Oh, how she regrets that in a \"chocolate that tastes like rain,\" she can pick out only \"hyssop and maybe myrtle, and a bit of cassia\" before \"the flavors get away from\" her. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Everyone treats Billie's palate like it's Barry Zito's throwing arm in its prime, but, in fact, it's not exactly a novel talent. Anyone who tastes for a living learns to cultivate sense memories and build a mental database of flavors and scents, so that faced with a dish you can say this is cardamom, this is coriander, this is fenugreek, and that is turmeric. Hardly rocket science. For any food writer or recipe developer or (presumably) chef, identifying, remembering, and recalling flavors is a basic part of the necessary skill set. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, that's the first 80 pages or so, until, as in life, \u003cem>Delicious!\u003c/em> is abruptly shuttered, leaving Billie adrift but, weirdly, still employed as a lone phone voice kept on to honor the \"Delicious! Guarantee,\" a longtime marketing gimmick that promised readers satisfaction with all the magazine's recipes or the cost of their ingredients back. The remaining two-thirds of the book becomes Scooby Doo with cell phones, as intrepid girl reporter Billie discovers, in a secret room in the magazine's long-locked library, a hidden! cache! of! nifty! letters! written by a perkily precocious girl named Lulu to none other but James Beard, who, as a gay soldier during World War II, had nothing better to do than share wartime-rationing cooking tips and canned life lessons with a chatty teenage pen pal from Akron, Ohio. One of the magazine's last librarians, obviously with too much time on his hands, has created an elaborate, yet essentially pointless, treasure hunt for the letters through the library's idiosyncratic card file, which Billie follows with breathless, Velma-worthy excitement. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If only, as readers, we could care about annoyingly chipper little Lulu, persecuted by mean teachers for her milkweed-foraging habits and fondness for pasta (enemy food, in that Axis-fearing era). Or about little Billie, who turns out to have a size-six killer bod AND fabulous fashion sense AND a trust fund on tap from The Cake Sisters, the wildly successful baking business she and her sister started as pre-teens and ran until college, when her absolutely, positively flawless older sister was run down by a speeding Jaguar as she carried the toppers for a $30,000 wedding-cupcake extravaganza across the street. (This is the perfectly perfect dead sister in whose shadow Billie has been willingly standing throughout the whole book, until Big Sis is revealed to have been snorting all her cake-baking profits up her nose, a habit proven after her death thanks to the meticulous written records kept by her coke dealer about all his clients. Because, of course, drug dealers: just like accountants that way.) \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Occasionally, there are moments when Reichl's extensive knowledge of the actual New York food world peeks through. But the howlers outnumber the real world moments by the dozens. Like Billie's devoted boyfriend, Mitch, a well-regarded architectural historian and professor who is surely a little old to be dating a woman of barely legal drinking age. Mitch comes straight from the sensitive urban-hunk division of rom-com casting as he reaches beneath his platform bed, promising \"and now for the major attraction.\" Handcuffs? Sex toys? Nope--just the ultimate foodie fantasy: an under-the-bed freezer drawer stocked with post-coital coffee ice cream, enough to make him worth at least a Ben & Jerry's-fueled booty call or two. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In interviews shortly after \u003cem>Gourmet\u003c/em> closed, Reichl implied that another memoir, this time about her life at the magazine, was on its way. If you want the full Reichl-style meal, better wait for that one. \u003cem>Delicious!\u003c/em> is all frosting and no filling. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Ruth Reichl is discussing Delicious! A Novel at the following Bay Area venues this week:\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5/20, 7 p.m.\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.paloaltojcc.org/events/2014/05/20/cultural-arts/book-signing-ruth-reichl-em-delicious-em/\" target=\"_blank\">Commonwealth Club/JCC\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n3921 Fabian Way, Palo Alto\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.commonwealthclub.org/events/2014-05-20/ruth-reichl\">More information about the event\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5/21, 12:15 p.m.\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.bookpassage.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Book Passage\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n51 Tamal Vista Blvd., Corte Madera\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://bookpassage.com/event/literary-lunch-ruth-reichl-delicious\">More information about the event\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5/21, 6:30 p.m.\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://omnivorebooks.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Omnivore Books\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n3885 Cesar Chavez St., San Francisco\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.omnivorebooks.com/events.html\">More information about the event\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Ruth Reichl, best-selling memoirist and longtime food writer, pens her first novel, loosely based on her time as the editor in chief at the now-defunct Gourmet. Is it this summer's perfect foodie beach read, or too fluffy even for cupcake lovers? Stephanie Rosenbaum Klassen tastes-tests the treat. \r\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82351\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 296px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/Delicious-JPG-Cover-image.jpeg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/Delicious-JPG-Cover-image.jpeg\" alt=\"Delicious! A Novel Photo: Courtesy of Ruth Reichl\" width=\"296\" height=\"450\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82351\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Delicious! A Novel Photo: Courtesy of Ruth Reichl\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>It couldn't have been easy for editor-in-chief Ruth Reichl when \u003cem>Gourmet\u003c/em>, the magazine she had run since 1999, was abruptly shuttered by parent company Conde Nast in 2009. The elegant monthly magazine had been in business since 1941, and Reichl had worked tirelessly for ten years to make it relevant in a rapidly changing gastronomic climate. As talented an editor and writer as Reichl was, however, she couldn't save \u003cem>Gourmet\u003c/em> from the publishing world's pessimistic number-crunchers. Conde Nast axed the once-glamorous \u003cem>Gourmet\u003c/em> in favor of its other food magazine, the bright, ad-generating, family-friendly \u003cem>\u003ca>Bon Appetit\u003c/a>\u003c/em>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With all her insider knowledge of New York's wildly competitive, ambition-driven, gossip-riddled restaurant and food world, one would expect to see Reichl tapping out her own tell-all of that heady time. After all, she has already written three best-selling, well-received and unflinchingly truthful memoirs, starting with \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0812981111/kqedorg-20\">Tender at the Bone\u003c/a>\u003c/em>, which described her childhood with a mentally disturbed, food-hording mother, followed by her freewheeling life as a hippie chef turned restaurant critic in 1970s California. \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0812981626/kqedorg-20\">Comfort Me with Apples\u003c/a>\u003c/em> had her touring Europe with \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.saveur.com/\">Saveur\u003c/a>\u003c/em> editor Colman Andrews, getting a sentimental and culinary education at his side. \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0143036610/kqedorg-20\">Garlic and Sapphires\u003c/a>\u003c/em> detailed her wig-wearing, persona-creating experiments as the all-powerful restaurant reviewer at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com\">New York Times\u003c/a>. Clearly, Reichl can write, and write well, on a variety of topics.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_25777\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/03/Ruth-Reichl-Photo300.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/03/Ruth-Reichl-Photo300.jpg\" alt=\"Ruth Reichl. Photo: Fiona Aboud\" width=\"300\" height=\"450\" class=\"size-full wp-image-25777\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ruth Reichl. Photo: Fiona Aboud\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>But while good novelists usually have the chops to be good memoirists, the reverse is not often true. Despite being based around a \u003cem>Gourmet\u003c/em> magazine stand-in named \u003cem>Delicious!\u003c/em>, Reichl's first foray into fiction, \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1400069629/kqedorg-20\">Delicious!\u003c/a>\u003c/em>, is less \u003cem>roman à clef\u003c/em> than Nancy Drew-ishly-plotted novel about an ugly duckling coming into her own in the big city. Fluffy, sweet, and wholly unbelievable, \u003cem>Delicious!\u003c/em> isn't being marketed as a young-adult book, but it might as well be, except that it's too sugary for a genre now dominated by dark, dystopian fantasies and sexed-up vampires. There's no devil wearing Prada here. Instead, everyone's gorgeous, everyone's charming, and (most unbelievable of all) everyone's friendly, eager to get instantly helpfully chummy with Reichl's frumpy little nobody of a heroine, Billie Breslin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Because isn't that \u003cem>exactly\u003c/em> what life is like in the New York media world? Billie shows up, a badly dressed college dropout with dorky glasses and baggy khakis, who suffers panic attacks when asked to cook, and suddenly the editor of the city's top food magazine wants her as his assistant. On her very first day, the glad-handing owner of the best Italian deli in the city hires her on the spot for a second job that turns into a second family. Within days, she's hanging out with her new magazine pals, drinking endless glasses of wine and scarfing up plates of duck hearts at their cool chef friends' new restaurants. Oh, and at the two-month point, that silver-fox editor takes her out for expensive sushi and assigns her a long feature story about the deli where she's working. Without asking permission from her deli-owner boss, she writes it, brilliantly, in a single all-nighter. And why worry about negligible publishing salaries when dad's paying the rent on that sweet walk-up on hipster-ridden Rivington Street? Even the character's name manages to evoke both \u003ca href=\"http://thebreslin.com/\">The Breslin\u003c/a>, a hot restaurant hangout helmed by Brit-chef April Bloomfield (fictionalized here as Thursday Brown, owner of The Pig, a hardly-disguised version of \u003ca href=\"http://thespottedpig.com/\">The Spotted Pig\u003c/a>, another of Bloomfield's popular restaurants) and the Pulitzer-Prize-winning, longtime NYC journalist Jimmy Breslin. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hired to answer the phone and fetch coffee, suddenly Billie's swimming in feature assignments involving cute farmers and voluble fishermen and fun travel all around the country, because that's just how brand-new careers go in the kooky New York magazine world. See, Billie has that one-in-a-million skill, the pitch-perfect palate. She can pick out a whisper of curry leaf in a spinach-saffron-Parmesan gnocchi that Thursday pops into her mouth the minute she walks into The Pig's crowded kitchen. Oh, how she regrets that in a \"chocolate that tastes like rain,\" she can pick out only \"hyssop and maybe myrtle, and a bit of cassia\" before \"the flavors get away from\" her. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Everyone treats Billie's palate like it's Barry Zito's throwing arm in its prime, but, in fact, it's not exactly a novel talent. Anyone who tastes for a living learns to cultivate sense memories and build a mental database of flavors and scents, so that faced with a dish you can say this is cardamom, this is coriander, this is fenugreek, and that is turmeric. Hardly rocket science. For any food writer or recipe developer or (presumably) chef, identifying, remembering, and recalling flavors is a basic part of the necessary skill set. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, that's the first 80 pages or so, until, as in life, \u003cem>Delicious!\u003c/em> is abruptly shuttered, leaving Billie adrift but, weirdly, still employed as a lone phone voice kept on to honor the \"Delicious! Guarantee,\" a longtime marketing gimmick that promised readers satisfaction with all the magazine's recipes or the cost of their ingredients back. The remaining two-thirds of the book becomes Scooby Doo with cell phones, as intrepid girl reporter Billie discovers, in a secret room in the magazine's long-locked library, a hidden! cache! of! nifty! letters! written by a perkily precocious girl named Lulu to none other but James Beard, who, as a gay soldier during World War II, had nothing better to do than share wartime-rationing cooking tips and canned life lessons with a chatty teenage pen pal from Akron, Ohio. One of the magazine's last librarians, obviously with too much time on his hands, has created an elaborate, yet essentially pointless, treasure hunt for the letters through the library's idiosyncratic card file, which Billie follows with breathless, Velma-worthy excitement. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If only, as readers, we could care about annoyingly chipper little Lulu, persecuted by mean teachers for her milkweed-foraging habits and fondness for pasta (enemy food, in that Axis-fearing era). Or about little Billie, who turns out to have a size-six killer bod AND fabulous fashion sense AND a trust fund on tap from The Cake Sisters, the wildly successful baking business she and her sister started as pre-teens and ran until college, when her absolutely, positively flawless older sister was run down by a speeding Jaguar as she carried the toppers for a $30,000 wedding-cupcake extravaganza across the street. (This is the perfectly perfect dead sister in whose shadow Billie has been willingly standing throughout the whole book, until Big Sis is revealed to have been snorting all her cake-baking profits up her nose, a habit proven after her death thanks to the meticulous written records kept by her coke dealer about all his clients. Because, of course, drug dealers: just like accountants that way.) \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Occasionally, there are moments when Reichl's extensive knowledge of the actual New York food world peeks through. But the howlers outnumber the real world moments by the dozens. Like Billie's devoted boyfriend, Mitch, a well-regarded architectural historian and professor who is surely a little old to be dating a woman of barely legal drinking age. Mitch comes straight from the sensitive urban-hunk division of rom-com casting as he reaches beneath his platform bed, promising \"and now for the major attraction.\" Handcuffs? Sex toys? Nope--just the ultimate foodie fantasy: an under-the-bed freezer drawer stocked with post-coital coffee ice cream, enough to make him worth at least a Ben & Jerry's-fueled booty call or two. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In interviews shortly after \u003cem>Gourmet\u003c/em> closed, Reichl implied that another memoir, this time about her life at the magazine, was on its way. If you want the full Reichl-style meal, better wait for that one. \u003cem>Delicious!\u003c/em> is all frosting and no filling. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Ruth Reichl is discussing Delicious! A Novel at the following Bay Area venues this week:\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5/20, 7 p.m.\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.paloaltojcc.org/events/2014/05/20/cultural-arts/book-signing-ruth-reichl-em-delicious-em/\" target=\"_blank\">Commonwealth Club/JCC\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n3921 Fabian Way, Palo Alto\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.commonwealthclub.org/events/2014-05-20/ruth-reichl\">More information about the event\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5/21, 12:15 p.m.\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.bookpassage.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Book Passage\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n51 Tamal Vista Blvd., Corte Madera\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://bookpassage.com/event/literary-lunch-ruth-reichl-delicious\">More information about the event\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5/21, 6:30 p.m.\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://omnivorebooks.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Omnivore Books\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n3885 Cesar Chavez St., San Francisco\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.omnivorebooks.com/events.html\">More information about the event\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Jonathan Kauffman: The Chronicle's Newest Food Critic",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_80461\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/Kauffman_taken_by_Kelli_Bielema.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/Kauffman_taken_by_Kelli_Bielema.jpg\" alt=\"Critic Jonathan Kauffman likes taking deep dives into single subjects, such as where to find the best noodles in town. Credit: Kelli Bielema\" width=\"560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-80461\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Critic Jonathan Kauffman likes taking deep dives into single subjects, such as where to find the best noodles in town. Credit: Kelli Bielema\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Oh happy day. It's rare in food writing circles to hear some good news for fellow scribes. But a collective congratulations buzzed around social media channels a few weeks back with the \u003ca href=\"http://insidescoopsf.sfgate.com/blog/2014/04/02/jonathan-kauffman-to-join-the-san-francisco-chronicles-food-wine-reporting-team/\">announcement\u003c/a> that the respected and well-liked (no, they don't always go together) \u003ca href=\"http://jonathankauffman.com/\">Jonathan Kauffman\u003c/a>, former San Francisco editor of the site \u003ca href=\"http://www.tastingtable.com/index.htm#\">Tasting Table\u003c/a>, was jumping ship to take a gig as as staff writer at the \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/food/\">San Francisco Chronicle\u003c/a>\u003c/em>'s Food Section. The former restaurant critic for alt-newspapers \u003cem>SFWeekly\u003c/em>, \u003cem>East Bay Express\u003c/em>, and \u003cem>Seattle Weekly\u003c/em> has won award nods from the \u003ca href=\"http://www.jamesbeard.org/awards\">James Beard Foundation\u003c/a> and the \u003ca href=\"https://www.iacp.com/\">International Association of Culinary Professionals\u003c/a>. \t\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The news was especially welcome in light of concern about the future of the \u003cem>Chronicle\u003c/em>'s Food Section. Late last year the \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2013/11/14/business/media/san-francisco-chronicle-plans-to-end-its-prized-food-section.html?_r=0\">New York Times\u003c/a>\u003c/em> reported that the \u003cem>Chronicle\u003c/em> was shuttering the stand-alone section and consolidating it with other lifestyle sections, news that made serious food newshounds shudder. (\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/default/article/Managing-Editor-s-response-to-New-York-Times-4980846.php\">Chronicle\u003c/a>\u003c/em> management have refuted the premise of the \u003cem>Times\u003c/em> story in a cross-country food fight between the two competitors in arguably the nation's top restaurant towns.) \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>More on that matter, which sparked the launch of a \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/SaveSFChronFood\">\"Save the Chronicle Food Section\" Facebook page\u003c/a>, to come. The Chronicle is expected to unveil its new section soon.\t \t\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, Kauffman, who starts at the paper today, shared some thoughts about his new post.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/tasting-table.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/tasting-table.jpg\" alt=\"Tasting Table \" width=\"1235\" height=\"675\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-80458\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>How did the job at the \u003cem>Chron\u003c/em> come about and why did you decide to take it?\u003c/strong> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A few months ago, I met up for drinks with \u003ca href=\"http://insidescoopsf.sfgate.com/blog/2013/12/09/kitty-morgan-to-join-the-san-francisco-chronicle-as-assistant-managing-editor/\">Kitty Morgan\u003c/a>, the new assistant managing editor for lifestyle, as she was soliciting perspectives from outside media on the Bay Area's food scene. We found ourselves in such agreement that when the \u003cem>Chronicle\u003c/em> decided to hire another staff writer, I jumped at the opportunity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Do you have a brief on your new position as yet? \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We haven't settled on specifics. The \u003cem>Chronicle\u003c/em>'s food section has always worked very closely as a team, so I suspect my duties will change depending on where the need is greatest. But I'll be primarily focusing on food features, with a sideline in hunting down those regional Chinese noodle houses restaurants and little-publicized pop-ups I most love discovering. I'll also be contributing to \u003ca href=\"http://insidescoopsf.sfgate.com/\">Inside Scoop\u003c/a> as needed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Do you have a clear sense of what is happening to the \u003cem>Chronicle\u003c/em>’s food section? \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Too soon for me to answer this one.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Is it a good time to be a food critic here and is there anything challenging about being a food writer in this community?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Writing about food in the Bay Area is pretty much as gratifying as dining in the Bay Area: Given the breadth of the dining scene, the depth of talent, and our collective obsession with food, there are so many stories out there worth writing about. The so-called challenge--that the high-end dining scene is relatively small and rapaciously covered--means that anyone who looks beyond that scrum can see acres of open territory to explore. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.sfchronicle.com/food/\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/chron700.jpg\" alt=\"San Francisco Chronicle Food Section\" width=\"500\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-80468\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What do you make of, if anything, the fact that most of the food critics in the area are men? There's you, \u003ca href=\"http://www.chow.com/\">John Birdsall at CHOW\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.modernluxury.com/san-francisco/story/eat-your-vegetables\">Josh Sens at \u003cem>San Francisco,\u003c/em>\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.eastbayexpress.com/oakland/ArticleArchives?author=1317672\">Luke Tsai at \u003cem>East Bay Express\u003c/em>\u003c/a>. Even in the \u003cem>Chronicle\u003c/em>’s own announcement about your hiring it mentioned you coming on board alongside \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfchronicle.com/author/michael-bauer/\">Michael Bauer\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfchronicle.com/author/jon-bonne/\">Jon Bonné\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfchronicle.com/author/paolo-lucchesi/\">Paolo Lucchesi\u003c/a> “and the rest of the Chronicle food staff.\" This in a field--and \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/foodwriters/\">a newspaper section\u003c/a>--that is overwhelmingly female.\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'm not sure why the announcement was worded like that, considering the majority of my coworkers--superstars like \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfchronicle.com/author/tara-duggan-/\">Tara Duggan\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfchronicle.com/author/stacy-finz-/\">Stacy Finz\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfchronicle.com/author/amanda-gold/\">Amanda Gold\u003c/a>--are women, as are my bosses all the way up the editorial chain. Your own list omits \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfweekly.com/authors/anna-roth/\">Anna Roth\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://christinamueller.com/\">Christina Mueller\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://untermanonfood.com/\">Patricia Unterman\u003c/a> -- and those are just the critics. I'd agree that straight men are a growing presence in food-writing realms, but the lineup you mention seems more of a historical moment than a movement. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, if you wanted to talk about the Caucasian near-monopoly on food writing in the Bay Area, I think we could have a more interesting, and troubling, discussion.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What subjects in food writing are you so over?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So-and-so always loved his/her grandmother's X. After working in corporate accounting for 10 years, he/she decided to follow his/her life's passion. Now he/she makes tiny batches of X with scrupulously sourced ingredients and sells X for $27 an ounce. What really gets me is when the moral of the story is supposed to be that you, O reader, are a more ethical person if you buy X. No, you're not! You're just buying a luxury product with a good story. I fall for the pitch every effing time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Can you describe your former life as a cook and how it informs your writing?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I worked in restaurants all through college, from dishwasher on up to line cook, and then cooked here for a number of restaurants in the 1990s, aka the era of Tower Food. I was a sous chef at a couple of restaurants that are no longer in business. When I was working as an anonymous restaurant critic, I thanked my years behind the stove every week for training my taste memory--that ability to recall and recreate what you made the night (or week) before. Working in a professional kitchen also taught me to dissect what I was tasting and identify what was right and wrong in terms of seasoning and texture. As I move more into reporting and narrative story-telling, I hope that that experience will be a source of empathy for the people whose stories I'm telling.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What haven’t we seen from you (yet) that may emerge once you settle in at the \u003cem>Chron\u003c/em>?\u003cbr>\n\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Features! Have I missed writing features, which was a big part of my job at the \u003cem>East Bay Express\u003c/em> and \u003cem>Seattle Weekly\u003c/em>. My M.O. as a critic is writing about food as an aspect of culture, not just a sensory experience. Searching out peak flavor experiences is a huge part of my M.O., but at the same time, we food writers spend so much time focused on what tastes great that we neglect interesting food stories that don't necessarily result in transcendent meals. Do Vietnamese Cajun crawfish boils, Chinese all-you-can-eat shabu-shabu houses, and food-truck sliders tell us something interesting about how we eat in the Bay Area? I've always thought so. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>A visitor to San Francisco wants to know where to eat: What do you suggest and why?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>First rule: They'd have to answer more questions. How much do you want to spend? What kinds of cuisines don't you get to eat back home? How out-there do you like your food? I'm not going to send you to \u003ca href=\"http://www.benusf.com/\">Benu\u003c/a> if you really just want cracked crab at \u003ca href=\"http://www.zagat.com/r/swan-oyster-depot-san-francisco\">Swan Oyster Depot\u003c/a>. Me: I want both.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Can we expect more coverage of holes-in-the-wall, now that Jonathan Kauffman has joined the San Francisco Chronicle's Food Section? Read Sarah Henry's Q&A to find out.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_80461\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/Kauffman_taken_by_Kelli_Bielema.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/Kauffman_taken_by_Kelli_Bielema.jpg\" alt=\"Critic Jonathan Kauffman likes taking deep dives into single subjects, such as where to find the best noodles in town. Credit: Kelli Bielema\" width=\"560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-80461\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Critic Jonathan Kauffman likes taking deep dives into single subjects, such as where to find the best noodles in town. Credit: Kelli Bielema\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Oh happy day. It's rare in food writing circles to hear some good news for fellow scribes. But a collective congratulations buzzed around social media channels a few weeks back with the \u003ca href=\"http://insidescoopsf.sfgate.com/blog/2014/04/02/jonathan-kauffman-to-join-the-san-francisco-chronicles-food-wine-reporting-team/\">announcement\u003c/a> that the respected and well-liked (no, they don't always go together) \u003ca href=\"http://jonathankauffman.com/\">Jonathan Kauffman\u003c/a>, former San Francisco editor of the site \u003ca href=\"http://www.tastingtable.com/index.htm#\">Tasting Table\u003c/a>, was jumping ship to take a gig as as staff writer at the \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/food/\">San Francisco Chronicle\u003c/a>\u003c/em>'s Food Section. The former restaurant critic for alt-newspapers \u003cem>SFWeekly\u003c/em>, \u003cem>East Bay Express\u003c/em>, and \u003cem>Seattle Weekly\u003c/em> has won award nods from the \u003ca href=\"http://www.jamesbeard.org/awards\">James Beard Foundation\u003c/a> and the \u003ca href=\"https://www.iacp.com/\">International Association of Culinary Professionals\u003c/a>. \t\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The news was especially welcome in light of concern about the future of the \u003cem>Chronicle\u003c/em>'s Food Section. Late last year the \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2013/11/14/business/media/san-francisco-chronicle-plans-to-end-its-prized-food-section.html?_r=0\">New York Times\u003c/a>\u003c/em> reported that the \u003cem>Chronicle\u003c/em> was shuttering the stand-alone section and consolidating it with other lifestyle sections, news that made serious food newshounds shudder. (\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/default/article/Managing-Editor-s-response-to-New-York-Times-4980846.php\">Chronicle\u003c/a>\u003c/em> management have refuted the premise of the \u003cem>Times\u003c/em> story in a cross-country food fight between the two competitors in arguably the nation's top restaurant towns.) \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>More on that matter, which sparked the launch of a \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/SaveSFChronFood\">\"Save the Chronicle Food Section\" Facebook page\u003c/a>, to come. The Chronicle is expected to unveil its new section soon.\t \t\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, Kauffman, who starts at the paper today, shared some thoughts about his new post.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/tasting-table.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/tasting-table.jpg\" alt=\"Tasting Table \" width=\"1235\" height=\"675\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-80458\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>How did the job at the \u003cem>Chron\u003c/em> come about and why did you decide to take it?\u003c/strong> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A few months ago, I met up for drinks with \u003ca href=\"http://insidescoopsf.sfgate.com/blog/2013/12/09/kitty-morgan-to-join-the-san-francisco-chronicle-as-assistant-managing-editor/\">Kitty Morgan\u003c/a>, the new assistant managing editor for lifestyle, as she was soliciting perspectives from outside media on the Bay Area's food scene. We found ourselves in such agreement that when the \u003cem>Chronicle\u003c/em> decided to hire another staff writer, I jumped at the opportunity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Do you have a brief on your new position as yet? \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We haven't settled on specifics. The \u003cem>Chronicle\u003c/em>'s food section has always worked very closely as a team, so I suspect my duties will change depending on where the need is greatest. But I'll be primarily focusing on food features, with a sideline in hunting down those regional Chinese noodle houses restaurants and little-publicized pop-ups I most love discovering. I'll also be contributing to \u003ca href=\"http://insidescoopsf.sfgate.com/\">Inside Scoop\u003c/a> as needed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Do you have a clear sense of what is happening to the \u003cem>Chronicle\u003c/em>’s food section? \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Too soon for me to answer this one.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Is it a good time to be a food critic here and is there anything challenging about being a food writer in this community?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Writing about food in the Bay Area is pretty much as gratifying as dining in the Bay Area: Given the breadth of the dining scene, the depth of talent, and our collective obsession with food, there are so many stories out there worth writing about. The so-called challenge--that the high-end dining scene is relatively small and rapaciously covered--means that anyone who looks beyond that scrum can see acres of open territory to explore. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.sfchronicle.com/food/\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/chron700.jpg\" alt=\"San Francisco Chronicle Food Section\" width=\"500\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-80468\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What do you make of, if anything, the fact that most of the food critics in the area are men? There's you, \u003ca href=\"http://www.chow.com/\">John Birdsall at CHOW\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.modernluxury.com/san-francisco/story/eat-your-vegetables\">Josh Sens at \u003cem>San Francisco,\u003c/em>\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.eastbayexpress.com/oakland/ArticleArchives?author=1317672\">Luke Tsai at \u003cem>East Bay Express\u003c/em>\u003c/a>. Even in the \u003cem>Chronicle\u003c/em>’s own announcement about your hiring it mentioned you coming on board alongside \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfchronicle.com/author/michael-bauer/\">Michael Bauer\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfchronicle.com/author/jon-bonne/\">Jon Bonné\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfchronicle.com/author/paolo-lucchesi/\">Paolo Lucchesi\u003c/a> “and the rest of the Chronicle food staff.\" This in a field--and \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/foodwriters/\">a newspaper section\u003c/a>--that is overwhelmingly female.\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'm not sure why the announcement was worded like that, considering the majority of my coworkers--superstars like \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfchronicle.com/author/tara-duggan-/\">Tara Duggan\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfchronicle.com/author/stacy-finz-/\">Stacy Finz\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfchronicle.com/author/amanda-gold/\">Amanda Gold\u003c/a>--are women, as are my bosses all the way up the editorial chain. Your own list omits \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfweekly.com/authors/anna-roth/\">Anna Roth\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://christinamueller.com/\">Christina Mueller\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://untermanonfood.com/\">Patricia Unterman\u003c/a> -- and those are just the critics. I'd agree that straight men are a growing presence in food-writing realms, but the lineup you mention seems more of a historical moment than a movement. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, if you wanted to talk about the Caucasian near-monopoly on food writing in the Bay Area, I think we could have a more interesting, and troubling, discussion.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What subjects in food writing are you so over?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So-and-so always loved his/her grandmother's X. After working in corporate accounting for 10 years, he/she decided to follow his/her life's passion. Now he/she makes tiny batches of X with scrupulously sourced ingredients and sells X for $27 an ounce. What really gets me is when the moral of the story is supposed to be that you, O reader, are a more ethical person if you buy X. No, you're not! You're just buying a luxury product with a good story. I fall for the pitch every effing time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Can you describe your former life as a cook and how it informs your writing?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I worked in restaurants all through college, from dishwasher on up to line cook, and then cooked here for a number of restaurants in the 1990s, aka the era of Tower Food. I was a sous chef at a couple of restaurants that are no longer in business. When I was working as an anonymous restaurant critic, I thanked my years behind the stove every week for training my taste memory--that ability to recall and recreate what you made the night (or week) before. Working in a professional kitchen also taught me to dissect what I was tasting and identify what was right and wrong in terms of seasoning and texture. As I move more into reporting and narrative story-telling, I hope that that experience will be a source of empathy for the people whose stories I'm telling.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What haven’t we seen from you (yet) that may emerge once you settle in at the \u003cem>Chron\u003c/em>?\u003cbr>\n\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Features! Have I missed writing features, which was a big part of my job at the \u003cem>East Bay Express\u003c/em> and \u003cem>Seattle Weekly\u003c/em>. My M.O. as a critic is writing about food as an aspect of culture, not just a sensory experience. Searching out peak flavor experiences is a huge part of my M.O., but at the same time, we food writers spend so much time focused on what tastes great that we neglect interesting food stories that don't necessarily result in transcendent meals. Do Vietnamese Cajun crawfish boils, Chinese all-you-can-eat shabu-shabu houses, and food-truck sliders tell us something interesting about how we eat in the Bay Area? I've always thought so. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>A visitor to San Francisco wants to know where to eat: What do you suggest and why?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>First rule: They'd have to answer more questions. How much do you want to spend? What kinds of cuisines don't you get to eat back home? How out-there do you like your food? I'm not going to send you to \u003ca href=\"http://www.benusf.com/\">Benu\u003c/a> if you really just want cracked crab at \u003ca href=\"http://www.zagat.com/r/swan-oyster-depot-san-francisco\">Swan Oyster Depot\u003c/a>. Me: I want both.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "The Latest Wacky Food Adventure: A Year Without Sugar",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_80410\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/istock_000009305370medium-679a04e42e684b77b19cead9ea87c9cde25d4015-e1397320275973.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-80410\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/istock_000009305370medium-679a04e42e684b77b19cead9ea87c9cde25d4015-e1397320275973.jpg\" alt=\"A new memoir highlights the experience of a family going without sugar for an entire year. Photo: iStock\" width=\"1000\" height=\"749\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A new memoir highlights the experience of a family going without sugar for an entire year. Photo: iStock\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>by Eliza Barclay, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/04/11/300994012/the-latest-wacky-food-misadventure-a-year-without-sugar\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (4/11/14)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Why would anyone put her family of four through a radical food experiment that would deprive her children of Halloween candy and chocolate-chip cookies?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/books/titles/301012156/year-of-no-sugar-a-memoir\">\u003cimg class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-80413\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/year-without-sugar.jpg\" alt=\"Year of No Sugar: A Memoir by Eve O. Shaub and David Gillespie\" width=\"300\" height=\"450\">\u003c/a>A cynic who happens upon Eve Schaub's recently published book, \u003cem>Year Of No Sugar,\u003c/em> might say that banning sugar from your home for a year to document the effects on your family is no more than a gimmick veiled in a health halo, and a harsh one, at that. \"This experiment was pretty much guaranteed to wreak all kinds of unpredictable havoc with our lives,\" Schaub admits early on in the memoir. \"I loved it.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Schaub's year without sugar wasn't quite as miserable as it might sound — though it had its frustrations, for sure. And a commitment to avoid something so ubiquitous in our food supply — and so deeply embedded into how we celebrate– is actually a pretty revelatory endeavor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Schaubs became experts in the complex world of sweeteners, and with that expertise come worthy questions that few people on Earth have asked about the nuances of so much hidden sugar on our health. The family also claimed surprising health perks — fewer colds and coughs, better gastrointestinal functioning and fewer energy crashes — from a sugar-free life, the likes of which we all might enjoy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But let's back up for a second. Back in January, I \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/01/08/260781785/is-sugar-addiction-why-so-many-january-diets-fail\">outed myself\u003c/a> as a sugar addict. While I don't tend to binge on pints of ice cream or entire packages of cookies, I've become increasingly wary of sugar's power over my mind and my body.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So I was naturally curious about this Vermont family's food stunt, if wary of it as just that — a stunt. \u003cem>Year of No Sugar \u003c/em>is modeled on Barbara Kingsolver's \u003cem>Animal, Vegetable, Miracle,\u003c/em> in which the novelist worked on a farm and lived on local or homegrown food for a year, and Alisa Smith and James MacKinnon's \u003cem>Plenty: Eating Locally on the 100 Mile Diet,\u003c/em> in which the couple spent a year eating only food produced within 100 miles of their Vancouver apartment. And all these stunt men and women can thank Henry David Thoreau for the original eco-stunt: \u003cem>Walden\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As Elizabeth Kolbert \u003ca href=\"http://www.newyorker.com/arts/critics/atlarge/2009/08/31/090831crat_atlarge_kolbert?currentPage=all\">wrote\u003c/a> in \u003cem>The New Yorker\u003c/em> in 2009 in her critique of eco-stunt books, there is something a little disingenuous about writers professing concern about a massive problem — climate change, or obesity and metabolic syndrome, in the case of Schaub — and then tackling it in a highly personal, bookselling way that is not likely to affect the underlying policies that perpetuate the problem.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Schaub, a freelance writer, is earnestly modest about her intention, which is \"just trying to begin the conversation about sugar.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_80411\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1280px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/no-sugar-baking_new-3cfa491f355f65d464bd71049682b125d51bda9e.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-80411\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/no-sugar-baking_new-3cfa491f355f65d464bd71049682b125d51bda9e.jpg\" alt=\"Eve Schaub says her daughters were "less than enthusiastic" at first about the family's no-sugar-for-a-year experiment. But over time they learned to enjoy sugar-free baking. Photo: Courtesy of Eve O. Schaub\" width=\"1280\" height=\"959\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Eve Schaub says her daughters were \"less than enthusiastic\" at first about the family's no-sugar-for-a-year experiment. But over time they learned to enjoy sugar-free baking. Photo: Courtesy of Eve O. Schaub\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The conversation began for her in 2010 when she and her husband watched Dr. Robert Lustig's video \"\u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dBnniua6-oM\">Sugar: The Bitter Truth\u003c/a>.\" Something about the University of California, San Francisco, pediatric endocrinologist's insistence that fructose is a poison clicked for Schaub. (Some 4.5 million people have clicked — and viewed — the video, too, since it came out in 2009.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[youtube //www.youtube.com/watch?v=dBnniua6-oM]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She describes it as something like an awakening, albeit a nightmarish one. She was \"totally freaked out,\" she writes. The video had convinced her that \"sugar is everywhere, it's making us all fat and sick, and almost no one realizes it.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She admits she bought into his argument that sugar is the biggest demon in the food supply with zero skepticism, \"hook, line and sinker.\" (Not everyone in the nutrition community has, and Lustig \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/13.7/2013/08/23/214440426/obesity-and-the-toxic-sugar-wars\">has many critics\u003c/a>.) The most life-changing implication for Schaub was that \"the body can't tell the difference between the high fructose corn syrup in processed foods like ketchup and grandma's lovingly baked molasses cookies,\" meaning all sugar had to go.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Dessert to me was, and is, an ultimate expression of love ... I made the connection at an early age that sugar \u003cem>is\u003c/em> the food equivalent of love,\" she writes — so this was huge.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But suddenly, and a little suspiciously, sugar went from love to narcotic: \"Could it be that we were really all just addicts sucking away at our soda-straw hookahs, never making the obvious connection between our 'drug' of choice and our rapidly declining health?\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Schaub's life before the experiment seemed pretty typical for a middle-aged mother. She loved chocolate; she loved to bake. She and her husband dabbled in vegetarianism and various diets. And they also ate pretty healthfully. Schaub didn't allow her daughters to eat Doritos or go to fast-food chains. They weren't overweight, and despite eating sugar every day, they weren't sick.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yet Schaub still wanted to take on the obesity epidemic by embarking on a year of obsessive label-reading, weird baking and recurring bouts of anxiety — which flared even during a family vacation in Italy — about the sugar that might be sneaking into her body. Noble? Maybe.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Schaubs did make exceptions: Each month as a family they'd pick one dessert that could contain sugar. The two girls, ages 6 and 11 during the experiment, had autonomy outside the house to decide what to eat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003ch3>What 'No Sugar' Meant To Schaub\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>NO:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>white or brown sugar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>cane sugar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>confectioner's sugar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>high-fructose corn syrup\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>crystalline fructose\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>molasses\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>maple syrup\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>honey\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>evaporated cane syrup\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>agave\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>artificial sweeteners\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>fruit juice\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>And the family made some wonderful discoveries about how to keep sweet treats in the mix. Whipped frozen bananas make a delightful soft-serve banana ice cream. Mashed banana can be substituted for white sugar, and chopped dates for brown sugar in many recipes. And dextrose, an obscure corn-based sugar you can buy on the Internet, is fair game in a fructose-free house.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Schaub shares some poignant moments, too, of the social strain of opting out of sweets at events like a community fundraiser and a potluck memorial service with a \"long and huge table filled entirely with sweets.\" In these settings, surrounded by friends and neighbors, she noticed that by forgoing sugar, her family existed apart.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Removed they were, but healthier they also might have been. Schaub notes that her daughters' school absences went from a combined total of over 20 to just five per year, and she concludes they were healthier during the year of no sugar than the previous three years. Her own energy levels were higher and steadier, and everyone's bowel movements were far more regular.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the end of the year, of course, the Schaubs do return to sugar, but with far greater moderation. Over the course of the year without it, they became much more sensitive to sweet flavors, and craved them less. When I spoke to her by phone this week, she said, \"I certainly feel that there's a place for sugar, but it's gotten totally out of control. In our family, we eat it now in small amounts, for special occasions. That's what sugar is designed to be: small and special.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Her experiment has also prompted her to reflect on how serious a challenge minimizing your sugar intake really is in the U.S. \"You can't have an occasion without food, and in our culture you can't have food without sugar,\" she says. \"You're going to find sugar added everywhere, but we don't have a sense of how pervasive it is, how it could be hiding in three to four different places, under different names in one food product.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>New Yorker\u003c/em> writer Kolbert, who questioned the real impacts of the eco-stunters in 2009, might say that if Schaub really wanted to do something about sugar, she could lobby her kids' school — which she complains inundates the children with sugar — to regulate the sugary treats. She could push for a soda tax in the state of Vermont.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But she is a writer, and she's moving on to another topic close to her heart: clutter. Still, according to her publicist, 10,000 people \u003ca href=\"http://books.sourcebooks.com/nosugar/\">pledged\u003c/a> to join her on Wednesday April 9 for the Day Of No Sugar.\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>\u003cbr>\nCopyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_80410\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/istock_000009305370medium-679a04e42e684b77b19cead9ea87c9cde25d4015-e1397320275973.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-80410\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/istock_000009305370medium-679a04e42e684b77b19cead9ea87c9cde25d4015-e1397320275973.jpg\" alt=\"A new memoir highlights the experience of a family going without sugar for an entire year. Photo: iStock\" width=\"1000\" height=\"749\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A new memoir highlights the experience of a family going without sugar for an entire year. Photo: iStock\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>by Eliza Barclay, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/04/11/300994012/the-latest-wacky-food-misadventure-a-year-without-sugar\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (4/11/14)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Why would anyone put her family of four through a radical food experiment that would deprive her children of Halloween candy and chocolate-chip cookies?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/books/titles/301012156/year-of-no-sugar-a-memoir\">\u003cimg class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-80413\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/year-without-sugar.jpg\" alt=\"Year of No Sugar: A Memoir by Eve O. Shaub and David Gillespie\" width=\"300\" height=\"450\">\u003c/a>A cynic who happens upon Eve Schaub's recently published book, \u003cem>Year Of No Sugar,\u003c/em> might say that banning sugar from your home for a year to document the effects on your family is no more than a gimmick veiled in a health halo, and a harsh one, at that. \"This experiment was pretty much guaranteed to wreak all kinds of unpredictable havoc with our lives,\" Schaub admits early on in the memoir. \"I loved it.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Schaub's year without sugar wasn't quite as miserable as it might sound — though it had its frustrations, for sure. And a commitment to avoid something so ubiquitous in our food supply — and so deeply embedded into how we celebrate– is actually a pretty revelatory endeavor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Schaubs became experts in the complex world of sweeteners, and with that expertise come worthy questions that few people on Earth have asked about the nuances of so much hidden sugar on our health. The family also claimed surprising health perks — fewer colds and coughs, better gastrointestinal functioning and fewer energy crashes — from a sugar-free life, the likes of which we all might enjoy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But let's back up for a second. Back in January, I \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/01/08/260781785/is-sugar-addiction-why-so-many-january-diets-fail\">outed myself\u003c/a> as a sugar addict. While I don't tend to binge on pints of ice cream or entire packages of cookies, I've become increasingly wary of sugar's power over my mind and my body.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So I was naturally curious about this Vermont family's food stunt, if wary of it as just that — a stunt. \u003cem>Year of No Sugar \u003c/em>is modeled on Barbara Kingsolver's \u003cem>Animal, Vegetable, Miracle,\u003c/em> in which the novelist worked on a farm and lived on local or homegrown food for a year, and Alisa Smith and James MacKinnon's \u003cem>Plenty: Eating Locally on the 100 Mile Diet,\u003c/em> in which the couple spent a year eating only food produced within 100 miles of their Vancouver apartment. And all these stunt men and women can thank Henry David Thoreau for the original eco-stunt: \u003cem>Walden\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As Elizabeth Kolbert \u003ca href=\"http://www.newyorker.com/arts/critics/atlarge/2009/08/31/090831crat_atlarge_kolbert?currentPage=all\">wrote\u003c/a> in \u003cem>The New Yorker\u003c/em> in 2009 in her critique of eco-stunt books, there is something a little disingenuous about writers professing concern about a massive problem — climate change, or obesity and metabolic syndrome, in the case of Schaub — and then tackling it in a highly personal, bookselling way that is not likely to affect the underlying policies that perpetuate the problem.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Schaub, a freelance writer, is earnestly modest about her intention, which is \"just trying to begin the conversation about sugar.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_80411\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1280px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/no-sugar-baking_new-3cfa491f355f65d464bd71049682b125d51bda9e.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-80411\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/no-sugar-baking_new-3cfa491f355f65d464bd71049682b125d51bda9e.jpg\" alt=\"Eve Schaub says her daughters were "less than enthusiastic" at first about the family's no-sugar-for-a-year experiment. But over time they learned to enjoy sugar-free baking. Photo: Courtesy of Eve O. Schaub\" width=\"1280\" height=\"959\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Eve Schaub says her daughters were \"less than enthusiastic\" at first about the family's no-sugar-for-a-year experiment. But over time they learned to enjoy sugar-free baking. Photo: Courtesy of Eve O. Schaub\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The conversation began for her in 2010 when she and her husband watched Dr. Robert Lustig's video \"\u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dBnniua6-oM\">Sugar: The Bitter Truth\u003c/a>.\" Something about the University of California, San Francisco, pediatric endocrinologist's insistence that fructose is a poison clicked for Schaub. (Some 4.5 million people have clicked — and viewed — the video, too, since it came out in 2009.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/dBnniua6-oM'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/dBnniua6-oM'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She describes it as something like an awakening, albeit a nightmarish one. She was \"totally freaked out,\" she writes. The video had convinced her that \"sugar is everywhere, it's making us all fat and sick, and almost no one realizes it.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She admits she bought into his argument that sugar is the biggest demon in the food supply with zero skepticism, \"hook, line and sinker.\" (Not everyone in the nutrition community has, and Lustig \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/13.7/2013/08/23/214440426/obesity-and-the-toxic-sugar-wars\">has many critics\u003c/a>.) The most life-changing implication for Schaub was that \"the body can't tell the difference between the high fructose corn syrup in processed foods like ketchup and grandma's lovingly baked molasses cookies,\" meaning all sugar had to go.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Dessert to me was, and is, an ultimate expression of love ... I made the connection at an early age that sugar \u003cem>is\u003c/em> the food equivalent of love,\" she writes — so this was huge.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But suddenly, and a little suspiciously, sugar went from love to narcotic: \"Could it be that we were really all just addicts sucking away at our soda-straw hookahs, never making the obvious connection between our 'drug' of choice and our rapidly declining health?\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Schaub's life before the experiment seemed pretty typical for a middle-aged mother. She loved chocolate; she loved to bake. She and her husband dabbled in vegetarianism and various diets. And they also ate pretty healthfully. Schaub didn't allow her daughters to eat Doritos or go to fast-food chains. They weren't overweight, and despite eating sugar every day, they weren't sick.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yet Schaub still wanted to take on the obesity epidemic by embarking on a year of obsessive label-reading, weird baking and recurring bouts of anxiety — which flared even during a family vacation in Italy — about the sugar that might be sneaking into her body. Noble? Maybe.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Schaubs did make exceptions: Each month as a family they'd pick one dessert that could contain sugar. The two girls, ages 6 and 11 during the experiment, had autonomy outside the house to decide what to eat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003ch3>What 'No Sugar' Meant To Schaub\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>NO:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>white or brown sugar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>cane sugar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>confectioner's sugar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>high-fructose corn syrup\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>crystalline fructose\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>molasses\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>maple syrup\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>honey\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>evaporated cane syrup\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>agave\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>artificial sweeteners\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>fruit juice\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>And the family made some wonderful discoveries about how to keep sweet treats in the mix. Whipped frozen bananas make a delightful soft-serve banana ice cream. Mashed banana can be substituted for white sugar, and chopped dates for brown sugar in many recipes. And dextrose, an obscure corn-based sugar you can buy on the Internet, is fair game in a fructose-free house.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Schaub shares some poignant moments, too, of the social strain of opting out of sweets at events like a community fundraiser and a potluck memorial service with a \"long and huge table filled entirely with sweets.\" In these settings, surrounded by friends and neighbors, she noticed that by forgoing sugar, her family existed apart.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Removed they were, but healthier they also might have been. Schaub notes that her daughters' school absences went from a combined total of over 20 to just five per year, and she concludes they were healthier during the year of no sugar than the previous three years. Her own energy levels were higher and steadier, and everyone's bowel movements were far more regular.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the end of the year, of course, the Schaubs do return to sugar, but with far greater moderation. Over the course of the year without it, they became much more sensitive to sweet flavors, and craved them less. When I spoke to her by phone this week, she said, \"I certainly feel that there's a place for sugar, but it's gotten totally out of control. In our family, we eat it now in small amounts, for special occasions. That's what sugar is designed to be: small and special.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Her experiment has also prompted her to reflect on how serious a challenge minimizing your sugar intake really is in the U.S. \"You can't have an occasion without food, and in our culture you can't have food without sugar,\" she says. \"You're going to find sugar added everywhere, but we don't have a sense of how pervasive it is, how it could be hiding in three to four different places, under different names in one food product.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>New Yorker\u003c/em> writer Kolbert, who questioned the real impacts of the eco-stunters in 2009, might say that if Schaub really wanted to do something about sugar, she could lobby her kids' school — which she complains inundates the children with sugar — to regulate the sugary treats. She could push for a soda tax in the state of Vermont.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But she is a writer, and she's moving on to another topic close to her heart: clutter. Still, according to her publicist, 10,000 people \u003ca href=\"http://books.sourcebooks.com/nosugar/\">pledged\u003c/a> to join her on Wednesday April 9 for the Day Of No Sugar.\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>\u003cbr>\nCopyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"info": "What kind of no sabo word is Hyphenación? For us, it’s about living within a hyphenation. Like being a third-gen Mexican-American from the Texas border now living that Bay Area Chicano life. Like Xorje! Each week we bring together a couple of hyphenated Latinos to talk all about personal life choices: family, careers, relationships, belonging … everything is on the table. ",
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"info": "Our flagship program, helmed by Kai Ryssdal, examines what the day in money delivered, through stories, conversations, newsworthy numbers and more. Updated Monday through Friday at about 3:30 p.m. PT.",
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"mindshift": {
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"info": "The MindShift podcast explores the innovations in education that are shaping how kids learn. Hosts Ki Sung and Katrina Schwartz introduce listeners to educators, researchers, parents and students who are developing effective ways to improve how kids learn. We cover topics like how fed-up administrators are developing surprising tactics to deal with classroom disruptions; how listening to podcasts are helping kids develop reading skills; the consequences of overparenting; and why interdisciplinary learning can engage students on all ends of the traditional achievement spectrum. This podcast is part of the MindShift education site, a division of KQED News. KQED is an NPR/PBS member station based in San Francisco. You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>",
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"order": 12
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"info": "For decades, the process for how police police themselves has been inconsistent – if not opaque. In some states, like California, these proceedings were completely hidden. After a new police transparency law unsealed scores of internal affairs files, our reporters set out to examine these cases and the shadow world of police discipline. On Our Watch brings listeners into the rooms where officers are questioned and witnesses are interrogated to find out who this system is really protecting. Is it the officers, or the public they've sworn to serve?",
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"info": "Our weekly podcast explores how the media 'sausage' is made, casts an incisive eye on fluctuations in the marketplace of ideas, and examines threats to the freedom of information and expression in America and abroad. For one hour a week, the show tries to lift the veil from the process of \"making media,\" especially news media, because it's through that lens that we see the world and the world sees us",
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"title": "Political Breakdown",
"tagline": "Politics from a personal perspective",
"info": "Political Breakdown is a new series that explores the political intersection of California and the nation. Each week hosts Scott Shafer and Marisa Lagos are joined with a new special guest to unpack politics -- with personality — and offer an insider’s glimpse at how politics happens.",
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"possible": {
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"title": "Possible",
"info": "Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.",
"airtime": "SUN 2pm",
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"pri-the-world": {
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"title": "PRI's The World: Latest Edition",
"info": "Each weekday, host Marco Werman and his team of producers bring you the world's most interesting stories in an hour of radio that reminds us just how small our planet really is.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 2pm-3pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/The-World-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
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},
"radiolab": {
"id": "radiolab",
"title": "Radiolab",
"info": "A two-time Peabody Award-winner, Radiolab is an investigation told through sounds and stories, and centered around one big idea. In the Radiolab world, information sounds like music and science and culture collide. Hosted by Jad Abumrad and Robert Krulwich, the show is designed for listeners who demand skepticism, but appreciate wonder. WNYC Studios is the producer of other leading podcasts including Freakonomics Radio, Death, Sex & Money, On the Media and many more.",
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},
"reveal": {
"id": "reveal",
"title": "Reveal",
"info": "Created by The Center for Investigative Reporting and PRX, Reveal is public radios first one-hour weekly radio show and podcast dedicated to investigative reporting. Credible, fact based and without a partisan agenda, Reveal combines the power and artistry of driveway moment storytelling with data-rich reporting on critically important issues. The result is stories that inform and inspire, arming our listeners with information to right injustices, hold the powerful accountable and improve lives.Reveal is hosted by Al Letson and showcases the award-winning work of CIR and newsrooms large and small across the nation. In a radio and podcast market crowded with choices, Reveal focuses on important and often surprising stories that illuminate the world for our listeners.",
"airtime": "SAT 4pm-5pm",
"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/reveal300px.png",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.revealnews.org/episodes/",
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"link": "/radio/program/reveal",
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"rss": "http://feeds.revealradio.org/revealpodcast"
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},
"rightnowish": {
"id": "rightnowish",
"title": "Rightnowish",
"tagline": "Art is where you find it",
"info": "Rightnowish digs into life in the Bay Area right now… ish. Journalist Pendarvis Harshaw takes us to galleries painted on the sides of liquor stores in West Oakland. We'll dance in warehouses in the Bayview, make smoothies with kids in South Berkeley, and listen to classical music in a 1984 Cutlass Supreme in Richmond. Every week, Pen talks to movers and shakers about how the Bay Area shapes what they create, and how they shape the place we call home.",
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"order": 16
},
"link": "/podcasts/rightnowish",
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