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"bio": "Elaine spent 12 years as a producer, writer, and correspondent for television and radio both in the Bay Area (KPIX/CBS 5, KSAN FM, KTCT AM) and in Asia (Metro Radio, MTV Asia). She has been nominated for three Emmy Award nominations for her work on the program “Evening Magazine.” She then moved on to Silicon Valley where she managed social media, public relations, and event planning for various tech companies such as Intuit, BlogHer, Rocket Fuel, and Vocera.\r\n\r\n \r\n\r\nIn 2007, Elaine started her own blog (then called “VirgoBlue”) highlighting some of her favorite restaurants around the Bay Area. These days, her blog “\u003ca href=\"http://www.virgoinwonderland.wordpress.com\">Virgo in Wonderland\u003c/a>” still reflects her love of food, as well as travel, fascinating people she’s met, and her family’s Disneyland adventures. Her food dislikes include okra, lamb, sweet potatoes, and yellow cheese on pizza. Follow her on Instagram @virgoinwonderland",
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"disqusTitle": "Cooking Up Refinement with Jacques Pépin's New Complete Techniques",
"title": "Cooking Up Refinement with Jacques Pépin's New Complete Techniques",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Jacques-P%C3%A9pin-New-Complete-Techniques/dp/1579129110\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/JPbookcover400.jpg\" alt=\"Jacques Pepin Techniques book cover\" title=\"Jacques Pepin Techniques book cover\" width=\"400\" height=\"464\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-52300\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As an English major and culinary school grad, the idea of consommé both enchants and terrifies me. In stacks of novels, elegant ladies sup on consommé served in fragile bone china bowls before traipsing across polished floors to wilt onto fainting couches. And because the ideal consommé contains nothing other than exquisitely clear and sublimely seasoned liquid (possibly served with equally exquisite garnishes, like airy quenelles or tiny raviolini) it's basically the most refined soup ever. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That's my romantic ideal of consommé. And it's one which jockeys impossibly with the complex reality handed to me in culinary school. There was so much emphasis on breaking (yet not breaking) the clarifying \"raft,\" the insistence on never allowing the stock to boil, and the overwhelming feeling that if you looked cross-eyed at your consommé you'd ruin it. As a result, during those nine sweaty months, I both longed for and dreaded making this genteel dish. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Enter \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Jacques-P%C3%A9pin-New-Complete-Techniques/dp/1579129110\">\u003cem>Jacques Pépin Complete New Techniques\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, which, weighing in at close to six pounds, is a serious book for serious cooks. This hefty addition to my bookshelf (courtesy a review copy from my editor at KQED's Bay Area Bites) is Jacques' latest culinary tome. It's an updated version of his 2001 \u003cem>Complete Techniques\u003c/em>, which was itself a compilation of \u003cem>La Technique\u003c/em> (1976) and \u003cem>La Methode\u003c/em> (1979), and it's admittedly one that filled me with skepticism. Being more of a hands-on person when it comes to learning, I didn't think I could truly learn techniques from the pages of a book -- even one from a culinary master such as Jacques Pépin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The burnished amber liquid now resting in my refrigerator is proof that I am wrong.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/consume500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/consume500.jpg\" alt=\"Consomme\" title=\"Consomme\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-52302\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>First of all, the recipe and technique for consommé is found in the book's \"The Basics\" section, which gave me the extra fillip I needed to attempt it. Having it there was as if Jacques was telling me, \"See, it's basic, you can make the elegant soup of your literary dreams, Stephanie, I believe in you!\" Secondly, it really is a \"throw everything in the pot, stir, bring to a boil and wait\" sort of recipe, which was unexpected. It's true that dealing with the raft -- the flotsam that forms during the cooking process -- is slightly tricky, but not nearly as painstaking as I thought it would be, especially since you ladle all the consommé through a dampened cheese cloth-lined sieve for additional straining.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As to how it tasted, well, it was delicate but not bland. Full of flavor, but not overpowering. It was all I dreamed of and more.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A few notes: the recipe called for \"diced celery leaves,\" but not knowing how to dice leaves, I went for a rough chop. Also, in their efforts to be helpful, more and more grocery stores are selling their celery already topped (without the leaves) and giving us only the hearts. I scrounged up just enough for this recipe, but be forewarned.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'm was so bolstered by my consommé success that I actually considered diving into the book's Presentation section and flicking out a few consommé-worthy garnishes with my paring knife, like the fluted mushrooms or carrot butterflies. However, I controlled myself and moved on to another technique-driven recipe: scrambled eggs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/eggs500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/eggs500.jpg\" alt=\"Scrambled Eggs\" title=\"Scrambled Eggs\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-52303\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Unlike my consommé foray, I know how to make scrambled eggs, and my usual way of making them is using a wooden spoon to scrape the beaten eggs and milk in a butter-slicked skillet over moderate heat. I will be honest and admit right off that I do like my way, which yields a significantly larger curd and a far less soft and creamy texture, but I still decided to try Jacques' essentially French method. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The most surprising part of the technique was not using a whisk to keep the curd small, nor was it adding 1/4 cup raw beaten egg and the cream at the end, it was replacing my low-sided skillet with a saucepan. This has the effect of holding in the heat when the raw egg is added off the burner, which, in turn keeps the mixture creamy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Between my creamy scrambled eggs with their sublimely small curd and pure consommé, tonight's dinner made me feel a bit like \u003ca href=\"http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/masterpiece/downtonabbey/season2_characters_mary.html\">Lady Mary Crawley\u003c/a>, eldest daughter of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/masterpiece/downtonabbey/season2_characters_robert.html\">Earl of Grantham\u003c/a>. (Point of order: \u003ca href=\"http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/masterpiece/downtonabbey/season2_characters_patmore.html\">Mrs. Patmore\u003c/a> would never send scrambled eggs up to the \u003ca href=\"http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/masterpiece/downtonabbey/index.html\">Downton Abbey\u003c/a> dinner table, and consommé was only ever an early course, not one half of the main. Horrors!)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I quite like Jacques' technique of making scrambled eggs and can definitely see myself using it when I want a fancier breakfast, a soothing solitary dinner, or have a spare white truffle lying around. (No way I'd waste that sucker on \u003cem>my\u003c/em> version of scrambled eggs.) But I'll probably go back to breaking out my skillet and wooden spoon on the days I have my three-year-old tearing through the kitchen bellowing about trains and LEGO. That said, I'm making the consommé in bulk and freezing it for those emergency nights I need to dine like a Lady.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Thanks, Jacques.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Jacques-P%C3%A9pin-New-Complete-Techniques/dp/1579129110\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/JPbookcover400.jpg\" alt=\"Jacques Pepin Techniques book cover\" title=\"Jacques Pepin Techniques book cover\" width=\"400\" height=\"464\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-52300\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As an English major and culinary school grad, the idea of consommé both enchants and terrifies me. In stacks of novels, elegant ladies sup on consommé served in fragile bone china bowls before traipsing across polished floors to wilt onto fainting couches. And because the ideal consommé contains nothing other than exquisitely clear and sublimely seasoned liquid (possibly served with equally exquisite garnishes, like airy quenelles or tiny raviolini) it's basically the most refined soup ever. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That's my romantic ideal of consommé. And it's one which jockeys impossibly with the complex reality handed to me in culinary school. There was so much emphasis on breaking (yet not breaking) the clarifying \"raft,\" the insistence on never allowing the stock to boil, and the overwhelming feeling that if you looked cross-eyed at your consommé you'd ruin it. As a result, during those nine sweaty months, I both longed for and dreaded making this genteel dish. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Enter \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Jacques-P%C3%A9pin-New-Complete-Techniques/dp/1579129110\">\u003cem>Jacques Pépin Complete New Techniques\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, which, weighing in at close to six pounds, is a serious book for serious cooks. This hefty addition to my bookshelf (courtesy a review copy from my editor at KQED's Bay Area Bites) is Jacques' latest culinary tome. It's an updated version of his 2001 \u003cem>Complete Techniques\u003c/em>, which was itself a compilation of \u003cem>La Technique\u003c/em> (1976) and \u003cem>La Methode\u003c/em> (1979), and it's admittedly one that filled me with skepticism. Being more of a hands-on person when it comes to learning, I didn't think I could truly learn techniques from the pages of a book -- even one from a culinary master such as Jacques Pépin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The burnished amber liquid now resting in my refrigerator is proof that I am wrong.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/consume500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/consume500.jpg\" alt=\"Consomme\" title=\"Consomme\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-52302\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>First of all, the recipe and technique for consommé is found in the book's \"The Basics\" section, which gave me the extra fillip I needed to attempt it. Having it there was as if Jacques was telling me, \"See, it's basic, you can make the elegant soup of your literary dreams, Stephanie, I believe in you!\" Secondly, it really is a \"throw everything in the pot, stir, bring to a boil and wait\" sort of recipe, which was unexpected. It's true that dealing with the raft -- the flotsam that forms during the cooking process -- is slightly tricky, but not nearly as painstaking as I thought it would be, especially since you ladle all the consommé through a dampened cheese cloth-lined sieve for additional straining.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As to how it tasted, well, it was delicate but not bland. Full of flavor, but not overpowering. It was all I dreamed of and more.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A few notes: the recipe called for \"diced celery leaves,\" but not knowing how to dice leaves, I went for a rough chop. Also, in their efforts to be helpful, more and more grocery stores are selling their celery already topped (without the leaves) and giving us only the hearts. I scrounged up just enough for this recipe, but be forewarned.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'm was so bolstered by my consommé success that I actually considered diving into the book's Presentation section and flicking out a few consommé-worthy garnishes with my paring knife, like the fluted mushrooms or carrot butterflies. However, I controlled myself and moved on to another technique-driven recipe: scrambled eggs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/eggs500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/eggs500.jpg\" alt=\"Scrambled Eggs\" title=\"Scrambled Eggs\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-52303\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Unlike my consommé foray, I know how to make scrambled eggs, and my usual way of making them is using a wooden spoon to scrape the beaten eggs and milk in a butter-slicked skillet over moderate heat. I will be honest and admit right off that I do like my way, which yields a significantly larger curd and a far less soft and creamy texture, but I still decided to try Jacques' essentially French method. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The most surprising part of the technique was not using a whisk to keep the curd small, nor was it adding 1/4 cup raw beaten egg and the cream at the end, it was replacing my low-sided skillet with a saucepan. This has the effect of holding in the heat when the raw egg is added off the burner, which, in turn keeps the mixture creamy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Between my creamy scrambled eggs with their sublimely small curd and pure consommé, tonight's dinner made me feel a bit like \u003ca href=\"http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/masterpiece/downtonabbey/season2_characters_mary.html\">Lady Mary Crawley\u003c/a>, eldest daughter of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/masterpiece/downtonabbey/season2_characters_robert.html\">Earl of Grantham\u003c/a>. (Point of order: \u003ca href=\"http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/masterpiece/downtonabbey/season2_characters_patmore.html\">Mrs. Patmore\u003c/a> would never send scrambled eggs up to the \u003ca href=\"http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/masterpiece/downtonabbey/index.html\">Downton Abbey\u003c/a> dinner table, and consommé was only ever an early course, not one half of the main. Horrors!)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I quite like Jacques' technique of making scrambled eggs and can definitely see myself using it when I want a fancier breakfast, a soothing solitary dinner, or have a spare white truffle lying around. (No way I'd waste that sucker on \u003cem>my\u003c/em> version of scrambled eggs.) But I'll probably go back to breaking out my skillet and wooden spoon on the days I have my three-year-old tearing through the kitchen bellowing about trains and LEGO. That said, I'm making the consommé in bulk and freezing it for those emergency nights I need to dine like a Lady.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Thanks, Jacques.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Book Q&A with Saveur's James Oseland",
"title": "Book Q&A with Saveur's James Oseland",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/560_BAB_James-OSeland-black-shirt-head-shot.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/560_BAB_James-OSeland-black-shirt-head-shot.jpg\" alt=\"James Oseland. Photo: Darrell Hucks\" title=\"James Oseland. Photo: Darrell Hucks\" width=\"400\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-51172\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>James Oseland. Photo: Darrell Hucks\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The famed fireplace at Camino restaurant will sizzle this Saturday, November 10 for \u003ca href=\"http://camino-oseland.eventbrite.com\">a book luncheon\u003c/a> featuring \u003ca href=\"http://www.saveur.com/\">\u003cem>Saveur's\u003c/em>\u003c/a> James Oseland. He may be familiar for his recent judging appearances on Top Chef Masters but he brings serious journalistic food cred to the table as well. Under his watch, \u003cem>Saveur\u003c/em> has raked in more than 25 awards, including eight James Beard awards. Oseland's newest culinary tome is heavy on food images that will make you ready to cook and, of course, eat: \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/The-Way-Cook-Saveur-Portraits/dp/1616284404\">The Way We Cook: Portraits from Around the World\u003c/a>. Yes, you can catch Wolfgang Puck smiling for the camera but the participants are mainly home cooks who are non-professional, and there’s a cozy warmth to their stories. Bay Area Bites interviewed Oseland recently to find out more. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: How did this book project come about?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Oseland:\u003c/strong> This book is a tribute to kitchens around the world and the people who make them hum. I'm fond of saying, cooking connects us, and I think what I love most about \u003cem>Saveur\u003c/em> is its mission to tell human stories. Even if it's a story about a type of dish or technique, it's also a story about the person putting food on the table. I'm amazed every day that at the heart of it all, the desire to cook is fantastically similar whether we’re in a remote village or in the midst of a big city. Looking back through hundreds of stories and photographs we've collected over the past decade, I feel lucky to be part of such a wonderful community with a hearty appetite and respect for global cuisine and culture. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/The-Way-Cook-Saveur-Portraits/dp/1616284404\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/400_BAB_Saveur_TWWC_cover_final.jpg\" alt=\"The Way We Cook\" title=\"The Way We Cook\" width=\"400\" height=\"380\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-51171\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What are you most passionate about food-wise? \u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Oseland:\u003c/strong> There is nothing that settles and satisfies me at the same time more than the act of cooking in my own kitchen. I also must admit, my husband is Brazilian and he has gotten me completely hooked on the country's pickled chilies. They have such depth and range of flavor -- it's like I've never had a chili before! They manage to sneak their way into the vast majority of my meals. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Who are your culinary mentors?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Oseland:\u003c/strong> I most admire the folks out there who make an impact on the food world through their unyielding passion for creating great meals. Ultimately, thoughtful chefs develop sophisticated yet simple cooking techniques. That extra care results in artful and intentional food I want to eat and share with those I love. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What are the best things about being a writer and editor? And the worst?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Oseland:\u003c/strong> The best part's easy -- I am paid to do what I love most. I was a contributor to \u003cem>Saveur\u003c/em> for almost seven years before I got an impeccably timed call from Colman Andrews (the former editor in chief) asking if I was interested in the executive editor's position. At that exact moment, I had just completed a final draft of my book about living and eating my way through Indonesia and had about 800 dollars to my name. I hope I didn't sound too desperate when I accepted on the spot! \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'd have to say that the worst part of the job is choosing what stories make it into each issue and which ones don't. I wish we could assign a thousand stories every year. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Do you have any favorite Bay Area food spots?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Oseland:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://incanto.biz/\">Incanto\u003c/a> is one of my all time favorite San Francisco spots and it's hard to pick one dish -- anything Chris Cosentino makes is bound to be fantastic. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Where do you think the U.S. is for appreciation of other cultures?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Oseland:\u003c/strong> Let me start by saying that as a New Yorker, I'm a little biased -- this city has tons of affection for global cuisine and talk about easy access! It's stunning how quickly you can get your hands on a good bao sandwich or satisfy your empanada craving here. However, I do think as a whole, Americans are a little different when it comes to food. We foster a kind of \"eat to work\" attitude that is the opposite of many countries where people \"work to live.\" I've noticed in many places I've visited, folks carve out a significant part of the day to share food together, and it's this sit-down-at-the-table ethic that \u003cem>The Way We Cook\u003c/em> champions. I'm proud of that, and I think the tradition to make time for eating with family and friends is on an exciting upswing in the U.S. too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Event Information:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://sfcooking.com/oseland-event.php\">An Evening with James Oseland at San Francisco Cooking School\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nFriday, November 9, 2012 from 7pm to 9pm\u003cbr>\n690 Van Ness Avenue (Corner @ Turk near Civic Center)\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94102\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://sfcooking.com/oseland-event.php\">Purchase Tix\u003c/a>: $15 admission only, $40 admission + book\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://camino-oseland.eventbrite.com/#\">Lunch with James Oseland at Camino\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nSaturday, November 10, 2012 from 11:30am to 3pm\u003cbr>\n3917 Grand Avenue\u003cbr>\nOakland, CA 94610\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://camino-oseland.eventbrite.com/#\">Purchase Tix\u003c/a>: $64.17 ($50 lunch + $9 tip + $5.17 tax) + $2.59 (tix fee) = $66.76 per person\u003cbr>\nCopies of the book will be available for sale at the event\u003cbr>\ncourtesy of Omnivore Books\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Mary Ladd interviews James Oseland, who edits Saveur magazine and has a new book out called The Way We Cook: Portraits from Around the World. Oseland explains the best and worst part about being an editor, and shares that he had around $800 to his name when he accepted the job offer.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/560_BAB_James-OSeland-black-shirt-head-shot.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/560_BAB_James-OSeland-black-shirt-head-shot.jpg\" alt=\"James Oseland. Photo: Darrell Hucks\" title=\"James Oseland. Photo: Darrell Hucks\" width=\"400\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-51172\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>James Oseland. Photo: Darrell Hucks\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The famed fireplace at Camino restaurant will sizzle this Saturday, November 10 for \u003ca href=\"http://camino-oseland.eventbrite.com\">a book luncheon\u003c/a> featuring \u003ca href=\"http://www.saveur.com/\">\u003cem>Saveur's\u003c/em>\u003c/a> James Oseland. He may be familiar for his recent judging appearances on Top Chef Masters but he brings serious journalistic food cred to the table as well. Under his watch, \u003cem>Saveur\u003c/em> has raked in more than 25 awards, including eight James Beard awards. Oseland's newest culinary tome is heavy on food images that will make you ready to cook and, of course, eat: \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/The-Way-Cook-Saveur-Portraits/dp/1616284404\">The Way We Cook: Portraits from Around the World\u003c/a>. Yes, you can catch Wolfgang Puck smiling for the camera but the participants are mainly home cooks who are non-professional, and there’s a cozy warmth to their stories. Bay Area Bites interviewed Oseland recently to find out more. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: How did this book project come about?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Oseland:\u003c/strong> This book is a tribute to kitchens around the world and the people who make them hum. I'm fond of saying, cooking connects us, and I think what I love most about \u003cem>Saveur\u003c/em> is its mission to tell human stories. Even if it's a story about a type of dish or technique, it's also a story about the person putting food on the table. I'm amazed every day that at the heart of it all, the desire to cook is fantastically similar whether we’re in a remote village or in the midst of a big city. Looking back through hundreds of stories and photographs we've collected over the past decade, I feel lucky to be part of such a wonderful community with a hearty appetite and respect for global cuisine and culture. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/The-Way-Cook-Saveur-Portraits/dp/1616284404\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/400_BAB_Saveur_TWWC_cover_final.jpg\" alt=\"The Way We Cook\" title=\"The Way We Cook\" width=\"400\" height=\"380\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-51171\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What are you most passionate about food-wise? \u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Oseland:\u003c/strong> There is nothing that settles and satisfies me at the same time more than the act of cooking in my own kitchen. I also must admit, my husband is Brazilian and he has gotten me completely hooked on the country's pickled chilies. They have such depth and range of flavor -- it's like I've never had a chili before! They manage to sneak their way into the vast majority of my meals. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Who are your culinary mentors?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Oseland:\u003c/strong> I most admire the folks out there who make an impact on the food world through their unyielding passion for creating great meals. Ultimately, thoughtful chefs develop sophisticated yet simple cooking techniques. That extra care results in artful and intentional food I want to eat and share with those I love. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What are the best things about being a writer and editor? And the worst?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Oseland:\u003c/strong> The best part's easy -- I am paid to do what I love most. I was a contributor to \u003cem>Saveur\u003c/em> for almost seven years before I got an impeccably timed call from Colman Andrews (the former editor in chief) asking if I was interested in the executive editor's position. At that exact moment, I had just completed a final draft of my book about living and eating my way through Indonesia and had about 800 dollars to my name. I hope I didn't sound too desperate when I accepted on the spot! \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'd have to say that the worst part of the job is choosing what stories make it into each issue and which ones don't. I wish we could assign a thousand stories every year. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Do you have any favorite Bay Area food spots?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Oseland:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://incanto.biz/\">Incanto\u003c/a> is one of my all time favorite San Francisco spots and it's hard to pick one dish -- anything Chris Cosentino makes is bound to be fantastic. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Where do you think the U.S. is for appreciation of other cultures?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Oseland:\u003c/strong> Let me start by saying that as a New Yorker, I'm a little biased -- this city has tons of affection for global cuisine and talk about easy access! It's stunning how quickly you can get your hands on a good bao sandwich or satisfy your empanada craving here. However, I do think as a whole, Americans are a little different when it comes to food. We foster a kind of \"eat to work\" attitude that is the opposite of many countries where people \"work to live.\" I've noticed in many places I've visited, folks carve out a significant part of the day to share food together, and it's this sit-down-at-the-table ethic that \u003cem>The Way We Cook\u003c/em> champions. I'm proud of that, and I think the tradition to make time for eating with family and friends is on an exciting upswing in the U.S. too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Event Information:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://sfcooking.com/oseland-event.php\">An Evening with James Oseland at San Francisco Cooking School\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nFriday, November 9, 2012 from 7pm to 9pm\u003cbr>\n690 Van Ness Avenue (Corner @ Turk near Civic Center)\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94102\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://sfcooking.com/oseland-event.php\">Purchase Tix\u003c/a>: $15 admission only, $40 admission + book\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://camino-oseland.eventbrite.com/#\">Lunch with James Oseland at Camino\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nSaturday, November 10, 2012 from 11:30am to 3pm\u003cbr>\n3917 Grand Avenue\u003cbr>\nOakland, CA 94610\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://camino-oseland.eventbrite.com/#\">Purchase Tix\u003c/a>: $64.17 ($50 lunch + $9 tip + $5.17 tax) + $2.59 (tix fee) = $66.76 per person\u003cbr>\nCopies of the book will be available for sale at the event\u003cbr>\ncourtesy of Omnivore Books\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": " The Whole Fish: How Adventurous Eating of Seafood Can Make You Healthier, Sexier, and Help Save the Ocean",
"title": " The Whole Fish: How Adventurous Eating of Seafood Can Make You Healthier, Sexier, and Help Save the Ocean",
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"content": "\u003cp>The autumn equinox is behind us, Halloween is fast approaching, followed quickly by the end of daylight savings time for the year. Longer nights, more darkness, and rain-gloomy days will be our lot for the next few months. Which means, of course, that it's time to eat more fish. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yes, according to \u003ca href=\"http://www.theatlantic.com/health/archive/2012/10/fish-oil-and-a-lesson-in-happiness-from-iceland/263868/#\">Fish Oil and a Lesson in Happiness\u003c/a>, an article recently published in \u003ca href=\"http://www.theatlantic.com\">The Atlantic\u003c/a>, Icelanders are considered to be some of the happiest people in the world, despite \"the 2008 financial crisis, volcanic eruptions, and predominant winter darkness.\" Due to its near-Arctic latitude, Iceland gets barely four hours of sunlight a day in December, yet its rate of Seasonal Affective Disorder (SAD) is a mere four percent, much lower than many countries further south. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Their secret? Bjork, elves, and swimming in steaming geothermal pools all winter, of course, but it could also be the country's seafood-rich diet, high in mood-enhancing, depression-fighting omega-3 fatty acids from wild-caught, cold-water fish like cod, salmon, sardines, and herring. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/maria-finn800.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/maria-finn560.jpg\" alt=\"Maria Finn author of The Whole Fish\" title=\"Maria Finn author of The Whole Fish\" width=\"560\" height=\"389\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50475\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Maria Finn author of The Whole Fish. Photo: Matthew Perry\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's an idea that Bay Area Bites contributor \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/mariafinn/\">Maria Finn\u003c/a> puts forth in her new \u003ca href=\"http://www.ted.com\">TED\u003c/a> e-book, \u003ca href=\"http://www.ted.com/pages/tedbooks_library#MariaFinn\">The Whole Fish: How Adventurous Eating of Seafood Can Make You Healthier, Sexier, and Help Save the Ocean\u003c/a>. It's a mouthful of a subtitle (and isn't it time to retire the whole \"How X Can Y, Z, and Save The World\" construct for titles by now?) but it goes far in explaining Finn's purpose: to encourage smarter, more responsible, nose-to-tail (or \"gills to adipose fin,\" as she calls it) seafood eating, with a West Coast emphasis on wild-caught salmon and low-on-the-food-chain small fish like sardines and herring.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.ted.com/pages/tedbooks_library#MariaFinn\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/the-whole-fish-cover400.jpg\" alt=\"The Whole Fish book cover\" title=\"The Whole Fish book cover\" width=\"400\" height=\"619\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50473\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Having worked on commercial salmon fishing boats in Alaska, Finn knows her salmons, from the big, meaty chinooks (great for grilling) to the mild, soft-fleshed pinks (perfect for burgers or croquettes), and she starts the book with a vivid description of the opening of the Alaskan salmon season, the boats jostling like racehorses waiting for the starting gun. Finn has also worked in resource management for the Alaska Department of Fish and Game, plunging into frigid water in a wetsuit to count salmon runs, then camping alongside the river through long tundra twilights in utterly remote locations. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Her first-hand experiences pepper the book, giving depth to her impassioned pleas for dam reduction; sound, non-polluting aquaculture and hatchery practices; and putting into practice an everyday environmental consciousness of the complexity of the ocean-to-river food web. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Several of the essays in the book are based on Bay Area Bites' pieces that Finn wrote over the past year, including a recent piece about \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/07/19/foraging-for-fish-in-the-san-francisco-bay/\">foraging for fish in San Francisco Bay\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/05/31/the-whole-fish-snout-to-tail-movement-meet-gills-to-adipose-fin/\">grilling whole salmon.\u003c/a> The book ends with recipes focusing on lesser-known salmon parts, from bones to collar; forage fish, like squid, mackerel, sardines, and herring; and sustainably-farmed fish, including catfish, white bass, trout, and local tilapia. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This Sunday, October 28, from 11am-4pm, you can meet Maria to talk fish and fishing while chowing down on some delicious roasted wild California chinook salmon with local chanterelle mushrooms and \u003ca href=\"http://www.ranchogordo.com/\">Rancho Gordo\u003c/a> cannellini bean salad, sourced by Martin Reed of \u003ca href=\"http://www.ilovebluesea.com/\">I Love Blue Sea\u003c/a> and cooked by John Fink of \u003ca href=\"http://www.thewholebeast.com/\">The Whole Beast\u003c/a> at this month's final \u003ca href=\"http://www.presidio.gov/Calendar/Pages/off-the-grid-picnic-at-the-presidio-october-28.aspx\">Picnic at the Presidio\u003c/a>, sponsored by \u003ca href=\"http://offthegridsf.com/\">Off the Grid\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/sardines-bouche.jpeg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/sardines-bouche.jpeg\" alt=\"Sardines with Grapefruit, Mint, and Marinated Vegetables\" title=\"Sardines with Grapefruit, Mint, and Marinated Vegetables\" width=\"427\" height=\"640\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50476\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Sardines with Grapefruit, Mint, and Marinated Vegetables. Photo: Quan Pham Photography courtesy of Bouche\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Sardines with Grapefruit, Mint, and Marinated Vegetables\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>This recipe comes from Chef Nicolas Borzee of \u003ca href=\"http://www.bouchesf.com/\">Bouche\u003c/a> in San Francisco. Borzee is from Alsace, France, and began working in restaurants at the age of 15. He worked his way through some of the best kitchens in France, including L’Atelier of Joel Robuchon. He moved to San Francisco in part for the local, sustainable ethos and amazing fresh ingredients, but also because of the passion for food. “There was so much love,” he said. “I’d never heard anyone talk about their muse that way.”\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Prep Time:\u003c/strong> 30 minutes, plus 14 hours' marinating time\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Cook Time:\u003c/strong> 30 minutes\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Total Time:\u003c/strong> 1 hour, plus 14 hours' marinating time\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Yield:\u003c/strong> Serves 2\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n8 fresh sardine fillets\u003cbr>\n5 pink grapefruits\u003cbr>\n1 fennel with greens\u003cbr>\n1 celery stalk with yellow leaves\u003cbr>\n2 baby carrots with greens\u003cbr>\n1 red onion, peeled\u003cbr>\n1 branch chocolate mint (from the farmers’ market)\u003cbr>\n4 tablespoons capers\u003cbr>\n4 ounces pain de mie (4 slices from a high quality sandwich-type white loaf)\u003cbr>\n2 ounces (1/4 cup) freshly squeezed lemon juice\u003cbr>\n1 pinch Espelette pepper\u003cbr>\n1 pinch garam masala\u003cbr>\n4 ounces (1/2 cup) olive oil\u003cbr>\n2 ounces (1/4 cup) rice vinegar\u003cbr>\nSalt to taste \u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>Wash the sardine fillets with cold water and dry them. Place the fillets on a tray and marinate for 2 hours with a pinch of salt per sardine and 2 ounces of lemon juice.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Peel and finely cut the vegetables. Bring a pot of water to a boil. Add several tablespoons of salt. Blanch vegetables for 1 minute, then drain. Reserve the greens of the carrots and fennel along with the yellow leaves of the celery stalk.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Take 1 grapefruit, remove the peel and membrane, and cut the flesh into small squares. Juice the remaining grapefruits. Reduce the juice in a pot by one third and season it with 2 ounces of rice vinegar, 4 ounces of olive oil, and salt to taste. Once the reduction has cooled, add all the vegetables and the sardines and marinate for at least 12 hours.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>In a deep fryer, fry the capers.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>To make the croutons, cut the pain de mie into small squares and sauté in a pan until they are dry. Season with a pinch of Espelette pepper and a pinch of garam masala.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>On a plate, place three sardine fillets in the middle and garnish with the vegetables, greens, fried capers, croutons, and mint.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Beverage pairing:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.cavesdesclans.com/wine/chateau-d-esclans.php\">Chateau d’Esclans\u003c/a>, Les Clans Rose 2008. This is an organic rosé from Provence, France. \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Celebrate the release of The Whole Fish: How Adventurous Eating of Seafood Can Make You Healthier, Sexier, and Help Save the Ocean by Bay Area Bites contributor Maria Finn at this Sunday's Picnic in the Presidio. ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>The autumn equinox is behind us, Halloween is fast approaching, followed quickly by the end of daylight savings time for the year. Longer nights, more darkness, and rain-gloomy days will be our lot for the next few months. Which means, of course, that it's time to eat more fish. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yes, according to \u003ca href=\"http://www.theatlantic.com/health/archive/2012/10/fish-oil-and-a-lesson-in-happiness-from-iceland/263868/#\">Fish Oil and a Lesson in Happiness\u003c/a>, an article recently published in \u003ca href=\"http://www.theatlantic.com\">The Atlantic\u003c/a>, Icelanders are considered to be some of the happiest people in the world, despite \"the 2008 financial crisis, volcanic eruptions, and predominant winter darkness.\" Due to its near-Arctic latitude, Iceland gets barely four hours of sunlight a day in December, yet its rate of Seasonal Affective Disorder (SAD) is a mere four percent, much lower than many countries further south. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Their secret? Bjork, elves, and swimming in steaming geothermal pools all winter, of course, but it could also be the country's seafood-rich diet, high in mood-enhancing, depression-fighting omega-3 fatty acids from wild-caught, cold-water fish like cod, salmon, sardines, and herring. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/maria-finn800.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/maria-finn560.jpg\" alt=\"Maria Finn author of The Whole Fish\" title=\"Maria Finn author of The Whole Fish\" width=\"560\" height=\"389\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50475\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Maria Finn author of The Whole Fish. Photo: Matthew Perry\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's an idea that Bay Area Bites contributor \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/mariafinn/\">Maria Finn\u003c/a> puts forth in her new \u003ca href=\"http://www.ted.com\">TED\u003c/a> e-book, \u003ca href=\"http://www.ted.com/pages/tedbooks_library#MariaFinn\">The Whole Fish: How Adventurous Eating of Seafood Can Make You Healthier, Sexier, and Help Save the Ocean\u003c/a>. It's a mouthful of a subtitle (and isn't it time to retire the whole \"How X Can Y, Z, and Save The World\" construct for titles by now?) but it goes far in explaining Finn's purpose: to encourage smarter, more responsible, nose-to-tail (or \"gills to adipose fin,\" as she calls it) seafood eating, with a West Coast emphasis on wild-caught salmon and low-on-the-food-chain small fish like sardines and herring.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.ted.com/pages/tedbooks_library#MariaFinn\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/the-whole-fish-cover400.jpg\" alt=\"The Whole Fish book cover\" title=\"The Whole Fish book cover\" width=\"400\" height=\"619\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50473\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Having worked on commercial salmon fishing boats in Alaska, Finn knows her salmons, from the big, meaty chinooks (great for grilling) to the mild, soft-fleshed pinks (perfect for burgers or croquettes), and she starts the book with a vivid description of the opening of the Alaskan salmon season, the boats jostling like racehorses waiting for the starting gun. Finn has also worked in resource management for the Alaska Department of Fish and Game, plunging into frigid water in a wetsuit to count salmon runs, then camping alongside the river through long tundra twilights in utterly remote locations. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Her first-hand experiences pepper the book, giving depth to her impassioned pleas for dam reduction; sound, non-polluting aquaculture and hatchery practices; and putting into practice an everyday environmental consciousness of the complexity of the ocean-to-river food web. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Several of the essays in the book are based on Bay Area Bites' pieces that Finn wrote over the past year, including a recent piece about \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/07/19/foraging-for-fish-in-the-san-francisco-bay/\">foraging for fish in San Francisco Bay\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/05/31/the-whole-fish-snout-to-tail-movement-meet-gills-to-adipose-fin/\">grilling whole salmon.\u003c/a> The book ends with recipes focusing on lesser-known salmon parts, from bones to collar; forage fish, like squid, mackerel, sardines, and herring; and sustainably-farmed fish, including catfish, white bass, trout, and local tilapia. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This Sunday, October 28, from 11am-4pm, you can meet Maria to talk fish and fishing while chowing down on some delicious roasted wild California chinook salmon with local chanterelle mushrooms and \u003ca href=\"http://www.ranchogordo.com/\">Rancho Gordo\u003c/a> cannellini bean salad, sourced by Martin Reed of \u003ca href=\"http://www.ilovebluesea.com/\">I Love Blue Sea\u003c/a> and cooked by John Fink of \u003ca href=\"http://www.thewholebeast.com/\">The Whole Beast\u003c/a> at this month's final \u003ca href=\"http://www.presidio.gov/Calendar/Pages/off-the-grid-picnic-at-the-presidio-october-28.aspx\">Picnic at the Presidio\u003c/a>, sponsored by \u003ca href=\"http://offthegridsf.com/\">Off the Grid\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/sardines-bouche.jpeg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/sardines-bouche.jpeg\" alt=\"Sardines with Grapefruit, Mint, and Marinated Vegetables\" title=\"Sardines with Grapefruit, Mint, and Marinated Vegetables\" width=\"427\" height=\"640\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50476\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Sardines with Grapefruit, Mint, and Marinated Vegetables. Photo: Quan Pham Photography courtesy of Bouche\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Sardines with Grapefruit, Mint, and Marinated Vegetables\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>This recipe comes from Chef Nicolas Borzee of \u003ca href=\"http://www.bouchesf.com/\">Bouche\u003c/a> in San Francisco. Borzee is from Alsace, France, and began working in restaurants at the age of 15. He worked his way through some of the best kitchens in France, including L’Atelier of Joel Robuchon. He moved to San Francisco in part for the local, sustainable ethos and amazing fresh ingredients, but also because of the passion for food. “There was so much love,” he said. “I’d never heard anyone talk about their muse that way.”\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Prep Time:\u003c/strong> 30 minutes, plus 14 hours' marinating time\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Cook Time:\u003c/strong> 30 minutes\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Total Time:\u003c/strong> 1 hour, plus 14 hours' marinating time\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Yield:\u003c/strong> Serves 2\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n8 fresh sardine fillets\u003cbr>\n5 pink grapefruits\u003cbr>\n1 fennel with greens\u003cbr>\n1 celery stalk with yellow leaves\u003cbr>\n2 baby carrots with greens\u003cbr>\n1 red onion, peeled\u003cbr>\n1 branch chocolate mint (from the farmers’ market)\u003cbr>\n4 tablespoons capers\u003cbr>\n4 ounces pain de mie (4 slices from a high quality sandwich-type white loaf)\u003cbr>\n2 ounces (1/4 cup) freshly squeezed lemon juice\u003cbr>\n1 pinch Espelette pepper\u003cbr>\n1 pinch garam masala\u003cbr>\n4 ounces (1/2 cup) olive oil\u003cbr>\n2 ounces (1/4 cup) rice vinegar\u003cbr>\nSalt to taste \u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>Wash the sardine fillets with cold water and dry them. Place the fillets on a tray and marinate for 2 hours with a pinch of salt per sardine and 2 ounces of lemon juice.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Peel and finely cut the vegetables. Bring a pot of water to a boil. Add several tablespoons of salt. Blanch vegetables for 1 minute, then drain. Reserve the greens of the carrots and fennel along with the yellow leaves of the celery stalk.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Take 1 grapefruit, remove the peel and membrane, and cut the flesh into small squares. Juice the remaining grapefruits. Reduce the juice in a pot by one third and season it with 2 ounces of rice vinegar, 4 ounces of olive oil, and salt to taste. Once the reduction has cooled, add all the vegetables and the sardines and marinate for at least 12 hours.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>In a deep fryer, fry the capers.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>To make the croutons, cut the pain de mie into small squares and sauté in a pan until they are dry. Season with a pinch of Espelette pepper and a pinch of garam masala.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>On a plate, place three sardine fillets in the middle and garnish with the vegetables, greens, fried capers, croutons, and mint.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Beverage pairing:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.cavesdesclans.com/wine/chateau-d-esclans.php\">Chateau d’Esclans\u003c/a>, Les Clans Rose 2008. This is an organic rosé from Provence, France. \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/BABjose-garces_Headshot.jpg\" alt=\"Jose Garces. Photo credit: Jason Varney\" title=\"Jose Garces. Photo credit: Jason Varney\" width=\"400\" height=\"600\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50376\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Chef Jose Garces. Photo credit: Jason Varney\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Iron Chef fans, you may want to keep those peepers on high alert. This week, the Bay Area hosts \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Iron_Chef_America#The_Iron_Chefs\">Iron Chef\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.jamesbeard.org/blog/menu-jose-garces\">James Beard\u003c/a> Award-winning Chef \u003ca href=\"http://www.garcesgroup.com/\">Jose Garces\u003c/a>, who will be in San Francisco touting his second book, \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/The-Latin-Road-Home-Savoring/dp/1891105493\">Latin Road Home: Savoring the Foods of Ecuador, Spain, Cuba, Mexico, and Peru\u003c/a>\u003c/em>. The book is a \"travelogue and literary food memoir\" with chapters and recipes from each country. Many of his recipes have ingredients that can be found in, say, your favorite Mission bodega, and Garces gives tips on ingredients for newbies. Garces authored his first cookbook, \u003cem>Latin Evolution\u003c/em>, in 2008 and will be at \u003ca href=\"http://www.omnivorebooks.com/events.html\">Omnivore Books\u003c/a> on Thursday night at 6PM. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>His eponymous Garces Group has 15 restaurants in Philadelphia (Amada, Chifa, Tinto, and Distrito), Chicago, Palm Springs, Arizona, and Atlantic City. An American born to Ecuadorian parents and raised in Chicago, Garces started culinary training as a youngster with his paternal grandmother and later graduated from Chicago’s Kendall College School of Culinary Arts. Chef Garces lives in Philadelphia with his wife and two children and this year created the \u003ca href=\"http://garcesfamilyfoundation.org/\">Garces Family Foundation\u003c/a>, a non-profit to help underserved immigrants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: How did the second book project come about?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nGarces: I knew for a long time that I wanted to work on a second cookbook after finishing my first one, \u003cem>Latin Evolution\u003c/em>. When I started coming up with recipes that I thought I might want to include in a second book, they all carried with them specific stories about how I learned to make them or made them my own. Those stories took on as much life as the recipes themselves, and it quickly became obvious that my next book should bring them both together and share not only how to prepare certain dishes but also why I love to prepare them and what they mean to me.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Do you have any good stories from the book tour? \u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nGarces: Up to this point everything has been running very smoothly! It was great to be back at my alma mater, Kendall College in Chicago and I had a blast at the Arizona Taco Fest in Scottsdale where Distrito took home a few trophies.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What are you most passionate about food-wise?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nGarces: I’m devoted to finding and preparing the best, freshest ingredients. To me, it is the surest way to make a dish truly special. If you refuse to compromise on the quality of your ingredients, you will always be working with the best raw materials, and by extension, you will always create the best version of a dish that you can.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Who are your culinary mentors?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nGarces: I owe a debt of experience and faith to \u003ca href=\"http://www.chefdouglasrodriguez.com/\">Douglas Rodriguez\u003c/a>, both for his trust in me and for bringing me to my adopted hometown of Philadelphia. My fellow Iron Chef, Masaharu Morimoto, never fails to inspire me with his creativity and masterful techniques. The Spanish trailblazer in American has long been Jose Andrés, and I am proud to follow in his footsteps of bringing the best of Spain to America.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What are the best things about being a chef and restaurateur? And the worst?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nGarces: I am lucky to be able to say that I truly love my job. Perhaps the best part of being a chef and restaurateur is using food as a way of bringing people together, whether for just one meal, as guests, or as a team working in one of my restaurants, caring for those guests night after night. Food creates community in a way that nothing else can. There are stresses, as there are in any job, and they can be magnified because every meal in a restaurant should be special, but those stresses pale in comparison to the benefits.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: You are relatively young yet appear to be a success. What are the lessons you’ve learned on the way?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nGarces: The biggest lesson that I have learned, and one that I try to carry with me and to impart on those who ask me for advice, is to surround yourself with talented, passionate, capable people and learn all you can from them. If you are constantly around people you admire, you can’t help but study their approach, and often, you’ll discover a better or more effective way of doing something.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Do you have any favorite Bay Area food spots?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nGarces: Mission Chinese by Danny Bowien is a favorite and I’ll order anything on that menu! I also like Boulevard and Piperade. I’m going to Manresa during this trip.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Where do you think the U.S. is for appreciation of other cultures?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nGarces: It’s often said that the U.S. is a melting pot, therefore I believe it’s impossible for us to not appreciate all of the cultures that now make up American culture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Have you ever experienced racism in the kitchen?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nGarces: In many ways, I think of the kitchen as the great equalizer -- especially because often, our ‘audience,’ or our diners, can’t actually see us. If your food is good, it’s good, and that’s really all there is to it at the end of the day.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Mary Ladd interviews Iron Chef Jose Garces, who is visiting San Francisco to promote his latest book, “Latin Road Home: Savoring the Foods of Ecuador, Spain, Cuba, Mexico, and Peru.” He recently won a trophy at the Arizona Taco Fest and shares where he will eat while in town, and who is his culinary mentor.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/BABjose-garces_Headshot.jpg\" alt=\"Jose Garces. Photo credit: Jason Varney\" title=\"Jose Garces. Photo credit: Jason Varney\" width=\"400\" height=\"600\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50376\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Chef Jose Garces. Photo credit: Jason Varney\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Iron Chef fans, you may want to keep those peepers on high alert. This week, the Bay Area hosts \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Iron_Chef_America#The_Iron_Chefs\">Iron Chef\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.jamesbeard.org/blog/menu-jose-garces\">James Beard\u003c/a> Award-winning Chef \u003ca href=\"http://www.garcesgroup.com/\">Jose Garces\u003c/a>, who will be in San Francisco touting his second book, \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/The-Latin-Road-Home-Savoring/dp/1891105493\">Latin Road Home: Savoring the Foods of Ecuador, Spain, Cuba, Mexico, and Peru\u003c/a>\u003c/em>. The book is a \"travelogue and literary food memoir\" with chapters and recipes from each country. Many of his recipes have ingredients that can be found in, say, your favorite Mission bodega, and Garces gives tips on ingredients for newbies. Garces authored his first cookbook, \u003cem>Latin Evolution\u003c/em>, in 2008 and will be at \u003ca href=\"http://www.omnivorebooks.com/events.html\">Omnivore Books\u003c/a> on Thursday night at 6PM. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>His eponymous Garces Group has 15 restaurants in Philadelphia (Amada, Chifa, Tinto, and Distrito), Chicago, Palm Springs, Arizona, and Atlantic City. An American born to Ecuadorian parents and raised in Chicago, Garces started culinary training as a youngster with his paternal grandmother and later graduated from Chicago’s Kendall College School of Culinary Arts. Chef Garces lives in Philadelphia with his wife and two children and this year created the \u003ca href=\"http://garcesfamilyfoundation.org/\">Garces Family Foundation\u003c/a>, a non-profit to help underserved immigrants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: How did the second book project come about?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nGarces: I knew for a long time that I wanted to work on a second cookbook after finishing my first one, \u003cem>Latin Evolution\u003c/em>. When I started coming up with recipes that I thought I might want to include in a second book, they all carried with them specific stories about how I learned to make them or made them my own. Those stories took on as much life as the recipes themselves, and it quickly became obvious that my next book should bring them both together and share not only how to prepare certain dishes but also why I love to prepare them and what they mean to me.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Do you have any good stories from the book tour? \u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nGarces: Up to this point everything has been running very smoothly! It was great to be back at my alma mater, Kendall College in Chicago and I had a blast at the Arizona Taco Fest in Scottsdale where Distrito took home a few trophies.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What are you most passionate about food-wise?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nGarces: I’m devoted to finding and preparing the best, freshest ingredients. To me, it is the surest way to make a dish truly special. If you refuse to compromise on the quality of your ingredients, you will always be working with the best raw materials, and by extension, you will always create the best version of a dish that you can.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Who are your culinary mentors?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nGarces: I owe a debt of experience and faith to \u003ca href=\"http://www.chefdouglasrodriguez.com/\">Douglas Rodriguez\u003c/a>, both for his trust in me and for bringing me to my adopted hometown of Philadelphia. My fellow Iron Chef, Masaharu Morimoto, never fails to inspire me with his creativity and masterful techniques. The Spanish trailblazer in American has long been Jose Andrés, and I am proud to follow in his footsteps of bringing the best of Spain to America.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What are the best things about being a chef and restaurateur? And the worst?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nGarces: I am lucky to be able to say that I truly love my job. Perhaps the best part of being a chef and restaurateur is using food as a way of bringing people together, whether for just one meal, as guests, or as a team working in one of my restaurants, caring for those guests night after night. Food creates community in a way that nothing else can. There are stresses, as there are in any job, and they can be magnified because every meal in a restaurant should be special, but those stresses pale in comparison to the benefits.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: You are relatively young yet appear to be a success. What are the lessons you’ve learned on the way?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nGarces: The biggest lesson that I have learned, and one that I try to carry with me and to impart on those who ask me for advice, is to surround yourself with talented, passionate, capable people and learn all you can from them. If you are constantly around people you admire, you can’t help but study their approach, and often, you’ll discover a better or more effective way of doing something.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Do you have any favorite Bay Area food spots?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nGarces: Mission Chinese by Danny Bowien is a favorite and I’ll order anything on that menu! I also like Boulevard and Piperade. I’m going to Manresa during this trip.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Where do you think the U.S. is for appreciation of other cultures?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nGarces: It’s often said that the U.S. is a melting pot, therefore I believe it’s impossible for us to not appreciate all of the cultures that now make up American culture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Have you ever experienced racism in the kitchen?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nGarces: In many ways, I think of the kitchen as the great equalizer -- especially because often, our ‘audience,’ or our diners, can’t actually see us. If your food is good, it’s good, and that’s really all there is to it at the end of the day.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1452101299/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=aidamollenkam-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=1452101299\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/keys-to-the-kitchen400.jpg\" alt=\"Keys to the Kitchen by Aida Mollenkamp\" title=\"Keys to the Kitchen by Aida Mollenkamp\" width=\"400\" height=\"712\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49771\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.aidamollenkamp.com/\">Aida Mollenkamp\u003c/a>, former editor of CHOW and star of both the Food Network and the Cooking Channel, wants to provide the home cook with a go-to kitchen resource. That is why she wrote her new book “\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1452101299/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=aidamollenkam-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=1452101299\">Keys to the Kitchen\u003c/a>.” Marketed as a cookbook, it’s much more than that. In the book, she breaks the cooking process down to one simple equation:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Quality Ingredients (The Set-Up) + Kitchen Skills (The How-To) + Technique (The Recipes) + Cooking Method (The Riff) = GOOD FOOD\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With hundreds of recipes and more cooking techniques than you ever knew you needed, \"Keys to the Kitchen\" could almost serve as a cooking class textbook. But of course, Aida makes it much more exciting than that. She’s encouraging home cooks to be more adventurous in the kitchen and not to be afraid to try new techniques and tastes. By providing some basic principles to purchasing, preparing and cooking food creatively she promotes the development of an adventurous approach to eating.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With the book coming out this month and a possible new show on the horizon, she’s hard to catch up with, but fortunately she carved out some time to talk about her new book and share some key tips with Bay Area Bites.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What is it about food that still excites you?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nAM: I stay excited because everyday presents an opportunity for a new food adventure. Whether it’s something as simple as buying an ingredient you’ve never used before, cooking a dish for the first time, or traveling somewhere and eating a new flavor, there’s always something out there.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What are your 5 best tips for being more adventurous in the kitchen?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\nAM:\n\u003cli>\n\u003cstrong>Follow flavors you like\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nDon’t think of your favorite recipe merely as one dish but rather as layers and layers of flavors. With that mentality, taste and dissect the details at your next dinner. Who knows? You may think you dislike a spice or ingredient only to realize it’s in a lot of the foods you love.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003cstrong>Travel through your taste buds\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nMany a food lover pines for the chance to eat fresh fried samosas in the streets of India or shop firsthand at renowned food markets, like Mexico City’s La Merced, but few of us can afford that reality. Instead, live vicariously through their food -- though you won’t have souvenirs, you’ll rack up plenty of food memories.\n\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003cstrong>Buy something new every time you shop\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nConsider each trip to the market as a chance to explore and aim to buy a new (if only to you) ingredient each time you shop. Sure, you may encounter a few duds, but more often than not, you’ll be pleasantly surprised and realize you actually love sauerkraut.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003cstrong>Think of your kitchen as a lab\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nChange your perspective and think of cooking not as drudgery but as your daily chance for culinary creativity. And really, it’s a lab with pretty low risk -- the worst-case scenario is that the dog ends up being fed really well. \n\u003cp>Start simple by swapping the herbs and spices in your favorite recipes, then graduate to using ingredients you’ve never tried.\u003c/p>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003cstrong>Make mealtime mash-ups\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nWith cooking experimentation comes rule breaking, so don’t be scared -- just go with it. In the last few years, all sorts of ethnic flavors have (like music) been mashed up into cross-cultural dishes -- like the now ubiquitous Korean tacos.\n\u003cp>Take a page from that trend and try a spin on your favorite foods, like chorizo on a gyro, kimchi in a Bloody Mary, Madras curry spices whirred into your vanilla ice cream, or any other twist that will help you forge your own food adventure.\u003c/p>\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>This doesn't seem like your typical cut and dry recipe cookbook. What was your inspiration?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nAM: That’s right. While a lot of cookbooks are a catalogue of recipes, \"Keys to the Kitchen\" is more of a kitchen reference combined with a cookbook. It’s a modern manual to the kitchen that teaches you how to shop, covers basic kitchen techniques, and then culminates with over 300 original recipes that cover everything from an elegant holiday-worthy roast to ideas for reinventing last night’s leftovers. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I wrote the book for my friends who like food but are intimidated by the kitchen because they were never taught to cook. Over and over again, I’d have people ask me the same general questions -- things like how to read labels, which cuts of meat are best for which preparations, and recipes for interesting but accessible recipes. I wrote \"Keys to the Kitchen\" to provide those answers and to help people become better cooks, whether it’s their first time turning on the stove or the one-thousandth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What's coming up for you after the launch of the cookbook? More television? More writing?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nAM: Well, the rest of the year will be devoted to my multi-city book tour. From mid-September through the holidays, I’ll be traveling to 14 different cities for book signings, demos, and other in-person cooking \u003ca href=\"http://www.aidamollenkamp.com/calendar/\">events\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After that, I’m going to start developing a new show that I, unfortunately, can’t talk about too much right now. But, I promise to keep you posted as it develops. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ciframe src=\"http://player.vimeo.com/video/46699925?portrait=0&color=ffffff\" width=\"560\" height=\"315\" frameborder=\"0\" webkitallowfullscreen mozallowfullscreen allowfullscreen>\u003c/iframe> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1452101299/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=aidamollenkam-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=1452101299\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/keys-to-the-kitchen400.jpg\" alt=\"Keys to the Kitchen by Aida Mollenkamp\" title=\"Keys to the Kitchen by Aida Mollenkamp\" width=\"400\" height=\"712\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49771\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.aidamollenkamp.com/\">Aida Mollenkamp\u003c/a>, former editor of CHOW and star of both the Food Network and the Cooking Channel, wants to provide the home cook with a go-to kitchen resource. That is why she wrote her new book “\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1452101299/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=aidamollenkam-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=1452101299\">Keys to the Kitchen\u003c/a>.” Marketed as a cookbook, it’s much more than that. In the book, she breaks the cooking process down to one simple equation:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Quality Ingredients (The Set-Up) + Kitchen Skills (The How-To) + Technique (The Recipes) + Cooking Method (The Riff) = GOOD FOOD\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With hundreds of recipes and more cooking techniques than you ever knew you needed, \"Keys to the Kitchen\" could almost serve as a cooking class textbook. But of course, Aida makes it much more exciting than that. She’s encouraging home cooks to be more adventurous in the kitchen and not to be afraid to try new techniques and tastes. By providing some basic principles to purchasing, preparing and cooking food creatively she promotes the development of an adventurous approach to eating.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With the book coming out this month and a possible new show on the horizon, she’s hard to catch up with, but fortunately she carved out some time to talk about her new book and share some key tips with Bay Area Bites.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What is it about food that still excites you?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nAM: I stay excited because everyday presents an opportunity for a new food adventure. Whether it’s something as simple as buying an ingredient you’ve never used before, cooking a dish for the first time, or traveling somewhere and eating a new flavor, there’s always something out there.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What are your 5 best tips for being more adventurous in the kitchen?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\nAM:\n\u003cli>\n\u003cstrong>Follow flavors you like\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nDon’t think of your favorite recipe merely as one dish but rather as layers and layers of flavors. With that mentality, taste and dissect the details at your next dinner. Who knows? You may think you dislike a spice or ingredient only to realize it’s in a lot of the foods you love.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003cstrong>Travel through your taste buds\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nMany a food lover pines for the chance to eat fresh fried samosas in the streets of India or shop firsthand at renowned food markets, like Mexico City’s La Merced, but few of us can afford that reality. Instead, live vicariously through their food -- though you won’t have souvenirs, you’ll rack up plenty of food memories.\n\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003cstrong>Buy something new every time you shop\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nConsider each trip to the market as a chance to explore and aim to buy a new (if only to you) ingredient each time you shop. Sure, you may encounter a few duds, but more often than not, you’ll be pleasantly surprised and realize you actually love sauerkraut.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003cstrong>Think of your kitchen as a lab\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nChange your perspective and think of cooking not as drudgery but as your daily chance for culinary creativity. And really, it’s a lab with pretty low risk -- the worst-case scenario is that the dog ends up being fed really well. \n\u003cp>Start simple by swapping the herbs and spices in your favorite recipes, then graduate to using ingredients you’ve never tried.\u003c/p>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003cstrong>Make mealtime mash-ups\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nWith cooking experimentation comes rule breaking, so don’t be scared -- just go with it. In the last few years, all sorts of ethnic flavors have (like music) been mashed up into cross-cultural dishes -- like the now ubiquitous Korean tacos.\n\u003cp>Take a page from that trend and try a spin on your favorite foods, like chorizo on a gyro, kimchi in a Bloody Mary, Madras curry spices whirred into your vanilla ice cream, or any other twist that will help you forge your own food adventure.\u003c/p>\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>This doesn't seem like your typical cut and dry recipe cookbook. What was your inspiration?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nAM: That’s right. While a lot of cookbooks are a catalogue of recipes, \"Keys to the Kitchen\" is more of a kitchen reference combined with a cookbook. It’s a modern manual to the kitchen that teaches you how to shop, covers basic kitchen techniques, and then culminates with over 300 original recipes that cover everything from an elegant holiday-worthy roast to ideas for reinventing last night’s leftovers. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I wrote the book for my friends who like food but are intimidated by the kitchen because they were never taught to cook. Over and over again, I’d have people ask me the same general questions -- things like how to read labels, which cuts of meat are best for which preparations, and recipes for interesting but accessible recipes. I wrote \"Keys to the Kitchen\" to provide those answers and to help people become better cooks, whether it’s their first time turning on the stove or the one-thousandth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What's coming up for you after the launch of the cookbook? More television? More writing?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nAM: Well, the rest of the year will be devoted to my multi-city book tour. From mid-September through the holidays, I’ll be traveling to 14 different cities for book signings, demos, and other in-person cooking \u003ca href=\"http://www.aidamollenkamp.com/calendar/\">events\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After that, I’m going to start developing a new show that I, unfortunately, can’t talk about too much right now. But, I promise to keep you posted as it develops. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ciframe src=\"http://player.vimeo.com/video/46699925?portrait=0&color=ffffff\" width=\"560\" height=\"315\" frameborder=\"0\" webkitallowfullscreen mozallowfullscreen allowfullscreen>\u003c/iframe> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "An Interview with Charles Phan, Author of \"Vietnamese Home Cooking\"",
"title": "An Interview with Charles Phan, Author of \"Vietnamese Home Cooking\"",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/560_BAB_CharlesPhan_ImagesBy-EricWolfinger.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/560_BAB_CharlesPhan_ImagesBy-EricWolfinger.jpg\" alt=\"Charles Phan. Images courtesy of Eric Wolfinger.\" title=\"Charles Phan. Images courtesy of Eric Wolfinger.\" width=\"560\" height=\"373\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49674\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Charles Phan. Image courtesy of Eric Wolfinger.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Getting a reservation at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.slanteddoor.com/\">Slanted Door\u003c/a> is a constant challenge for both locals and tourists which shows the power of home-style Vietnamese dishes like shaking beef, crab noodles and spring rolls served in a stylish setting with fabulous views. There’s now something of a solution for those pining for a Slanted Door fix: Chef-Restaurateur Charles Phan has a new cookbook called “\u003ca href=\"http://www.scribd.com/doc/104012307/Vietnamese-Home-Cooking\">Vietnamese Home Cooking\u003c/a>.” The book is Phan’s first and offers how-to tips for creating dishes like black cod with lily buds and dried shiitakes, lemongrass beef stew, pork and shrimp spring rolls, and Sichuan cucumber pickles. Phan will be discussing his book at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.commonwealthclub.org/events/2012-10-04/chef-charles-phan\">Commonwealth Club\u003c/a> tonight Thursday, October 4. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.scribd.com/doc/104012307/Vietnamese-Home-Cooking\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/400_CoverArt_Vietnamese-Home-Cooking.jpg\" alt=\"Vietnamese Home Cooking by Charles Phan\" title=\"Vietnamese Home Cooking by Charles Phan\" width=\"400\" height=\"493\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49673\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Phan put Vietnamese cooking on the American culinary landscape when he opened the Slanted Door restaurant on Valencia Street in the Mission back in 1995. It was the first restaurant of its type to offer high-end Vietnamese food, often made with farm-fresh and as-local-as-possible ingredients. From there, he has built a mini-empire of Bay Area restaurants and was one of the first anchor tenants to sign on to the remodeled Ferry Building landmark in 2004. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That year, he won the James Beard Foundation award for Best Chef, California and in 2011 was inducted into the foundation's \u003ca href=\"http://sf.eater.com/archives/2011/05/10/mike_tusk_and_charles_phan_win_james_beard_restaurant_and_chef_awards_2011_mike_tusk_and_charles_pha.php\">Who's Who of Food & Beverage in America\u003c/a>. Born in Da Lat, Vietnam in 1962, Phan and his parents and siblings all relocated to Guam just before the fall of Saigon. They spent two years there before settling in San Francisco in 1977. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bay Area Bites talked to Phan via phone interview about his new book, cooking with Alice Waters, his “refugee thinking” and upcoming Bourbon and fried chicken “Southern bar” concept. His comments have been edited for clarity and length.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Why do a book now?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nPhan: I needed more recipes to fill the book so I had to wait. [Laughs.] The recipes are all similar to what we do at the restaurant, which is to promote Vietnamese cooking. I think a lot of people don't understand the way and how Vietnamese eat their food and what the philosophy is behind each technique. We have to explain that all the time and tell people “this is how you eat the food.” I did the book because I hope there’s interest. I lunch every year with the Ten Speed and Chronicle Books folks, and they’ve encouraged me for the last ten years to do this book. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Out the Door at the Westfield Mall shuttered under somewhat mysterious circumstances. What happened?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nPhan: I can’t really talk about it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Where do you see yourself in relation to being a cook and businessman?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nPhan: For the title of chef or cook, I don’t really differentiate. At the end of day, you’re making food for people. I didn’t come from formal training. Yet, we’re all after the same thing -- making amazing food for people. I don’t really worry about the hierarchy of a name. I think every chef is nervous about what they do. If not, then it’s not interesting. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As for business, it’s like doing homework in college. If you want to pass the test, you have to do it. Or you blow it and don’t turn in your paper. A lot of people become our family soon after they become our staff. I don't see them leaving and so it makes sense for me to figure out a way to make a lot of money for all of us, a nest egg. Work-wise, we grow and change and can’t always be in the same spot. Like when a bartender becomes a bar manager, we can take that into account when we're looking at growing the business. We’re about to start a bourbon concept and will be able to move as a group. We may do something that’s cocktail-centric but food’s always in play. Maybe the next project could be a wine bar. It’s really about growing the family so we don't put all our eggs in one basket. I enjoy the business and work side of it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/560_BABVHC_VietnameseMeal_ImagesBy-EricWolfinger.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/560_BABVHC_VietnameseMeal_ImagesBy-EricWolfinger.jpg\" alt=\"Vietnamese meal. Image courtesy of Eric Wolfinger.\" title=\"Vietnamese meal. Image courtesy of Eric Wolfinger.\" width=\"560\" height=\"373\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49675\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Vietnamese meal. Image courtesy of Eric Wolfinger.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even with the existing restaurant, we look at how to improve and change it so we’re not stagnant. We’re always asking, “Is there anything else we can do?” Also people come for shaking beef... they are looking for that and that’s what they want. Especially if it takes a couple of weeks to get a reservation! \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was just cooking at \u003ca href=\"http://www.chezpanisse.com/reservations/\">Chez Panisse\u003c/a> the other night, for the book tour. And Alice said “You’re so good at this and so comfortable.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And I said, “Yeah, I don’t get to do this every day. I have other obligations.” She said if she had her druthers, she’d also be in the kitchen every day. But we are grown-ups so we have to take care of things.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: You live near the Fillmore. Do you have any favorite food or drink spots?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nPhan: If I go home, I go home. I promised my kids that I’ll be home 3-4 nights a week. Yet I don’t go home every night by dinnertime. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.chutneysf.com/\">Chutney\u003c/a> is one of my favorites. Usually, I get a cocktail at \u003ca href=\"http://www.bourbonandbranch.com/\">Bourbon and Branch\u003c/a> or at \u003ca href=\"http://tradbar.com/\">Tradition bar\u003c/a> across the street. There I can get high-end cocktails and good food. At Chutney, I really like their food and I don’t have to make a reservation. I think a lot of restaurant people can’t deal with doing a reservation at a restaurant on a busy night.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For cocktails, often I drink at my own place because I get them for free. [Laughs.] At least in my head I’m not paying.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.baragricole.com/\">Bar Agricole\u003c/a> is a good spot.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We’re doing a whole bourbon and fried chicken “Southern bar” concept. I’m working with my good friend Olle Lundberg. He and I both got addicted to bourbon, which is why were doing this project. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I didn’t really drink a lot of cocktails until we moved to the Ferry Building. I started with a Margarita and tequila. Next thing you know I tried bourbon. I tend to like it straight up and neat to cut back on the sugar. Bourbon is sort of like the alcohol of choice. It’s going to be harder and harder to get good bourbon. Big companies are taking over all these small distilleries.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Who are your mentors?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nPhan: My father. My parents ended up doing stuff they’d never done before. They opened a sewing shop -- and my mother had never threaded before. I call it the refugee thinking. Do your homework, and if you can deal with the worst-case scenario, you can deal with it. And if you can’t, you can’t. I always look to other chefs and reflect on what they are doing. With Alice Waters and her restaurant: when I was in Berkeley, it was seeing not just how she did the organic thing but the way she runs her business. Her menu was small. She’d put up six to seven items and customers would come in to eat. Prior to that, most Chinese restaurants had 100 items. That just gave me the confidence I needed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What are the pros and cons of building a restaurant business? Do you have any funny stories?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nPhan: I was cooking at Chez Panisse, cooking on Monday and it was really hot. I felt like people were making fun of me for bringing Vietnamese food to Berkeley and also the weather from Vietnam. On the second seating, the power went out and we had to put out the fire. There was smoke and dust everywhere. I looked like I had Richard Gere’s hair -- it was grey. [Laughs.] I don’t look like Richard Gere. I wish I did. But I had his hair! That’s how it rolls. Nobody seemed to care that we didn’t have power. We made everybody’s food and the power went out twice. I just had a long shower after that. I was covered in dust and soot. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: How did you learn to cook such great food?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nPhan: I think the key is to learn how to eat first. If you are exposed to a lot of great food and you start building your vocabulary of flavor. First you need the palate: how to visualize the picture and how to get there. I think the book is the same -- learning how to know each dish and visualize it. Just don’t come and tell me “it’s really good.” I do that to kids a lot -- my goal is to really affect kids and get them addicted to good food. There may be a lot of things like drugs and stuff to get addicted to; I think food is better because they’ll see the joy in it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Have you ever experienced racism in kitchen?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nPhan: The first week we opened, people were expecting free tea. Every restaurant at that time gave out free tea. The whole point of opening the Slanted Door was to combat stereotypes. I think it’s just a lot of stereotypes -- customers come in saying, “where’s the bread?” They don’t do that at a $4.99 Chinese restaurant. People are very funny about expectations and pricing. A lot of people think they can get cheaper food in the Tenderloin. But obviously there are enough people that agree with my pricing. There’s a way to pay for the farmer, pay for the worker. At the end of the day it’s a capitalist society. You are not supposed to charge more than your colleague with the same genre of restaurant. But that doesn’t bother me. I am challenged by that obstacle, and look at it as a puzzle to figure out. We’re a little different and I’m completely comfortable in what I’m charging and what pork I’m serving. At some point you can’t please everybody. You shouldn’t put out food you don’t like. I’m not a big mussel fan so it’s not on the menu. That’s just my preference. \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Mary Ladd interviews Vietnamese food expert and chef Charles Phan, whose first cookbook, Vietnamese Home Cooking is now out. Phan discusses cooking with Alice Waters, his “refugee thinking” and upcoming Bourbon and fried chicken “Southern bar” concept.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/560_BAB_CharlesPhan_ImagesBy-EricWolfinger.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/560_BAB_CharlesPhan_ImagesBy-EricWolfinger.jpg\" alt=\"Charles Phan. Images courtesy of Eric Wolfinger.\" title=\"Charles Phan. Images courtesy of Eric Wolfinger.\" width=\"560\" height=\"373\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49674\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Charles Phan. Image courtesy of Eric Wolfinger.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Getting a reservation at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.slanteddoor.com/\">Slanted Door\u003c/a> is a constant challenge for both locals and tourists which shows the power of home-style Vietnamese dishes like shaking beef, crab noodles and spring rolls served in a stylish setting with fabulous views. There’s now something of a solution for those pining for a Slanted Door fix: Chef-Restaurateur Charles Phan has a new cookbook called “\u003ca href=\"http://www.scribd.com/doc/104012307/Vietnamese-Home-Cooking\">Vietnamese Home Cooking\u003c/a>.” The book is Phan’s first and offers how-to tips for creating dishes like black cod with lily buds and dried shiitakes, lemongrass beef stew, pork and shrimp spring rolls, and Sichuan cucumber pickles. Phan will be discussing his book at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.commonwealthclub.org/events/2012-10-04/chef-charles-phan\">Commonwealth Club\u003c/a> tonight Thursday, October 4. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.scribd.com/doc/104012307/Vietnamese-Home-Cooking\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/400_CoverArt_Vietnamese-Home-Cooking.jpg\" alt=\"Vietnamese Home Cooking by Charles Phan\" title=\"Vietnamese Home Cooking by Charles Phan\" width=\"400\" height=\"493\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49673\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Phan put Vietnamese cooking on the American culinary landscape when he opened the Slanted Door restaurant on Valencia Street in the Mission back in 1995. It was the first restaurant of its type to offer high-end Vietnamese food, often made with farm-fresh and as-local-as-possible ingredients. From there, he has built a mini-empire of Bay Area restaurants and was one of the first anchor tenants to sign on to the remodeled Ferry Building landmark in 2004. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That year, he won the James Beard Foundation award for Best Chef, California and in 2011 was inducted into the foundation's \u003ca href=\"http://sf.eater.com/archives/2011/05/10/mike_tusk_and_charles_phan_win_james_beard_restaurant_and_chef_awards_2011_mike_tusk_and_charles_pha.php\">Who's Who of Food & Beverage in America\u003c/a>. Born in Da Lat, Vietnam in 1962, Phan and his parents and siblings all relocated to Guam just before the fall of Saigon. They spent two years there before settling in San Francisco in 1977. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bay Area Bites talked to Phan via phone interview about his new book, cooking with Alice Waters, his “refugee thinking” and upcoming Bourbon and fried chicken “Southern bar” concept. His comments have been edited for clarity and length.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Why do a book now?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nPhan: I needed more recipes to fill the book so I had to wait. [Laughs.] The recipes are all similar to what we do at the restaurant, which is to promote Vietnamese cooking. I think a lot of people don't understand the way and how Vietnamese eat their food and what the philosophy is behind each technique. We have to explain that all the time and tell people “this is how you eat the food.” I did the book because I hope there’s interest. I lunch every year with the Ten Speed and Chronicle Books folks, and they’ve encouraged me for the last ten years to do this book. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Out the Door at the Westfield Mall shuttered under somewhat mysterious circumstances. What happened?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nPhan: I can’t really talk about it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Where do you see yourself in relation to being a cook and businessman?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nPhan: For the title of chef or cook, I don’t really differentiate. At the end of day, you’re making food for people. I didn’t come from formal training. Yet, we’re all after the same thing -- making amazing food for people. I don’t really worry about the hierarchy of a name. I think every chef is nervous about what they do. If not, then it’s not interesting. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As for business, it’s like doing homework in college. If you want to pass the test, you have to do it. Or you blow it and don’t turn in your paper. A lot of people become our family soon after they become our staff. I don't see them leaving and so it makes sense for me to figure out a way to make a lot of money for all of us, a nest egg. Work-wise, we grow and change and can’t always be in the same spot. Like when a bartender becomes a bar manager, we can take that into account when we're looking at growing the business. We’re about to start a bourbon concept and will be able to move as a group. We may do something that’s cocktail-centric but food’s always in play. Maybe the next project could be a wine bar. It’s really about growing the family so we don't put all our eggs in one basket. I enjoy the business and work side of it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/560_BABVHC_VietnameseMeal_ImagesBy-EricWolfinger.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/560_BABVHC_VietnameseMeal_ImagesBy-EricWolfinger.jpg\" alt=\"Vietnamese meal. Image courtesy of Eric Wolfinger.\" title=\"Vietnamese meal. Image courtesy of Eric Wolfinger.\" width=\"560\" height=\"373\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49675\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Vietnamese meal. Image courtesy of Eric Wolfinger.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even with the existing restaurant, we look at how to improve and change it so we’re not stagnant. We’re always asking, “Is there anything else we can do?” Also people come for shaking beef... they are looking for that and that’s what they want. Especially if it takes a couple of weeks to get a reservation! \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was just cooking at \u003ca href=\"http://www.chezpanisse.com/reservations/\">Chez Panisse\u003c/a> the other night, for the book tour. And Alice said “You’re so good at this and so comfortable.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And I said, “Yeah, I don’t get to do this every day. I have other obligations.” She said if she had her druthers, she’d also be in the kitchen every day. But we are grown-ups so we have to take care of things.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: You live near the Fillmore. Do you have any favorite food or drink spots?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nPhan: If I go home, I go home. I promised my kids that I’ll be home 3-4 nights a week. Yet I don’t go home every night by dinnertime. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.chutneysf.com/\">Chutney\u003c/a> is one of my favorites. Usually, I get a cocktail at \u003ca href=\"http://www.bourbonandbranch.com/\">Bourbon and Branch\u003c/a> or at \u003ca href=\"http://tradbar.com/\">Tradition bar\u003c/a> across the street. There I can get high-end cocktails and good food. At Chutney, I really like their food and I don’t have to make a reservation. I think a lot of restaurant people can’t deal with doing a reservation at a restaurant on a busy night.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For cocktails, often I drink at my own place because I get them for free. [Laughs.] At least in my head I’m not paying.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.baragricole.com/\">Bar Agricole\u003c/a> is a good spot.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We’re doing a whole bourbon and fried chicken “Southern bar” concept. I’m working with my good friend Olle Lundberg. He and I both got addicted to bourbon, which is why were doing this project. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I didn’t really drink a lot of cocktails until we moved to the Ferry Building. I started with a Margarita and tequila. Next thing you know I tried bourbon. I tend to like it straight up and neat to cut back on the sugar. Bourbon is sort of like the alcohol of choice. It’s going to be harder and harder to get good bourbon. Big companies are taking over all these small distilleries.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Who are your mentors?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nPhan: My father. My parents ended up doing stuff they’d never done before. They opened a sewing shop -- and my mother had never threaded before. I call it the refugee thinking. Do your homework, and if you can deal with the worst-case scenario, you can deal with it. And if you can’t, you can’t. I always look to other chefs and reflect on what they are doing. With Alice Waters and her restaurant: when I was in Berkeley, it was seeing not just how she did the organic thing but the way she runs her business. Her menu was small. She’d put up six to seven items and customers would come in to eat. Prior to that, most Chinese restaurants had 100 items. That just gave me the confidence I needed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What are the pros and cons of building a restaurant business? Do you have any funny stories?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nPhan: I was cooking at Chez Panisse, cooking on Monday and it was really hot. I felt like people were making fun of me for bringing Vietnamese food to Berkeley and also the weather from Vietnam. On the second seating, the power went out and we had to put out the fire. There was smoke and dust everywhere. I looked like I had Richard Gere’s hair -- it was grey. [Laughs.] I don’t look like Richard Gere. I wish I did. But I had his hair! That’s how it rolls. Nobody seemed to care that we didn’t have power. We made everybody’s food and the power went out twice. I just had a long shower after that. I was covered in dust and soot. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: How did you learn to cook such great food?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nPhan: I think the key is to learn how to eat first. If you are exposed to a lot of great food and you start building your vocabulary of flavor. First you need the palate: how to visualize the picture and how to get there. I think the book is the same -- learning how to know each dish and visualize it. Just don’t come and tell me “it’s really good.” I do that to kids a lot -- my goal is to really affect kids and get them addicted to good food. There may be a lot of things like drugs and stuff to get addicted to; I think food is better because they’ll see the joy in it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Have you ever experienced racism in kitchen?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nPhan: The first week we opened, people were expecting free tea. Every restaurant at that time gave out free tea. The whole point of opening the Slanted Door was to combat stereotypes. I think it’s just a lot of stereotypes -- customers come in saying, “where’s the bread?” They don’t do that at a $4.99 Chinese restaurant. People are very funny about expectations and pricing. A lot of people think they can get cheaper food in the Tenderloin. But obviously there are enough people that agree with my pricing. There’s a way to pay for the farmer, pay for the worker. At the end of the day it’s a capitalist society. You are not supposed to charge more than your colleague with the same genre of restaurant. But that doesn’t bother me. I am challenged by that obstacle, and look at it as a puzzle to figure out. We’re a little different and I’m completely comfortable in what I’m charging and what pork I’m serving. At some point you can’t please everybody. You shouldn’t put out food you don’t like. I’m not a big mussel fan so it’s not on the menu. That’s just my preference. \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Banh Mi Love You Long Time's Vietnamese Sandwiches at Porchlight Storytelling ",
"title": "Banh Mi Love You Long Time's Vietnamese Sandwiches at Porchlight Storytelling ",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/beth-arlene500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/beth-arlene500.jpg\" alt=\"Beth Lisick and Arline Klatte at Porchlight\" title=\"Beth Lisick and Arline Klatte at Porchlight\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49061\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Beth Lisick and Arline Klatte at Porchlight\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Seriously, every storytelling/reading/performance art show should start in a room that smells like bourbon and banh mi. On Monday, that was the scene at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.verdiclub.net\">Verdi Club\u003c/a> in the northeast Mission, as a capacity crowd squeezed in for the 11th season opener of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.porchlightsf.com\">Porchlight Storytelling Series\u003c/a>. At the old-fashioned bar, the bartenders were busy mixing highballs, grabbing bottles of Peroni and filling stubby glasses to the brim with Italian red. And at a makeshift kitchen (toaster oven, a couple of crock pots, tubs of pickled chiles and squeeze bottles of Sriracha), Jessica Nguyen of \u003ca href=\"http://www.facebook.com/bikebanhmi\">Banh Mi Love You Long Time\u003c/a> was stuffing crisp-toasted lengths of baguette with curry tofu, curry chicken, or slow-cooked pork, adding the necessary magic of cilantro, cucumber, carrot, daikon, and chiles, and handing out dozens of the paper-wrapped sandwiches to the chattering crowd with a smile. At $7, a glass of wine cost a buck more than a sandwich, but with both, you could be very happy for less than fifteen bucks. (Or fifteen even, if you did right and tipped both your bartender and your sandwich-maker.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/Jessica500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/Jessica500.jpg\" alt=\"Jessica Nguyen of Banh Mi Love You Long Time making sandwiches\" title=\"Jessica Nguyen of Banh Mi Love You Long Time making sandwiches\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49064\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Jessica Nguyen of Banh Mi Love You Long Time making Vietnamese sandwiches\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Having moved to Brooklyn just 6 weeks ago, host Beth Lisick was happy to be back in town and back on stage with her co-host, Arline Klatte, after Porchlight's August hiatus. The theme this time? \u003cstrong>Double Dare\u003c/strong>, one story told in tandem by two tellers. (Although \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/BootsRiley\">Boots Riley\u003c/a>, of Oakland hip-hop band \u003ca href=\"http://www.facebook.com/TheCoup\">The Coup\u003c/a>, did get a pass to perform solo, by counting his 6-week-old son in the audience as his silent partner.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>First up, a word from the show's sponsor: a don't-quit-your-day-job turn by Chris Mittelstaedt, founder and CEO of \u003ca href=\"http://fruitguys.com\">The Fruit Guys\u003c/a>, who wore a full-length banana suit while belting out an ode to fruit, backed by Fiona and Simone, his (much cooler) twin 11-year-old daughters on drums and bass, who could ditch Dad and start a \u003ca href=\"http://www.thedonnas.com\">Donnas\u003c/a> cover band any day now.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(In fact, as we discovered via an email from Mittelstaedt after this article was posted, the girls have been in an all-girl band, \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JnlEtDw3umk\">Mysturbia\u003c/a>, for several years now. They'll be playing at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.polkstreetbluesfestival.com\">Polk Street Blues Festival\u003c/a> on Sunday, September 30, at 12 noon as part of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.bird-sf.com/music.html\">Bird Music School\u003c/a> set.) \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/Carol-Robert500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/Carol-Robert500.jpg\" alt=\"Robert Lawrence and Carol Queen at Porchlight\" title=\"Robert Lawrence and Carol Queen at Porchlight\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49062\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Robert Lawrence and Carol Queen at Porchlight\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Next up, doctors of sexology \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/carolqueen\">Carol Queen\u003c/a> and Robert Lawrence, founders of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.sexandculture.org\">Center for Sex and Culture\u003c/a>, and longtime sex educators, authors, and performers. Carol and I even share a food world connection: back in 1996, we were both contributors to a (now long out-of-print) cookbook of celebrity recipes put together to raise money for AIDS organizations. Titled \u003cem>Food for Life and Other Dish, \u003c/em>it offered recipes for novelist Dorothy Allison's Red Velvet Cake, drag star RuPaul's Coush-Coush, \"The Apple Pie That Seduced My Girlfriend\" from writer Rebecca Brown, and many more. Carol was posed in front of her kitchen counter, breaking eggs, while I was snapped standing on top of my stove holding a pie while wearing a checked gingham dress and a Louise Brooks wig. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, we go way back, Carol and I, but I didn't know that, around the same time as that cookbook was coming out, she and Robert had gotten a $24,000 grant from the Ford Foundation to present a sex-ed lecture (and some educational porn) to the top brass of China's health administration in Beijing. Their week in Beijing, buttressed by a squadron of translators, included a foray to what was, at the time, Beijing's only gay bar, and the discovery of the late-night gay cruising scene near the illegal bok choy market. The Chinese phrase for the semi-public sex happening wherever a tiny slice of semi-privacy could be found? \"Trembling bushes.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then it was over to the \u003ca href=\"http://www.senorfrogs.com/\">Senor Frogs\u003c/a> in Nassau with Anneke Swinehart and Sean Kelly, a place of \"wet t-shirts, yard-long margarita glasses, and alcoholic Kool-Aid,\" that was the first stop of the Bruise Cruise, a floating indie-rock extravaganza of dozens of bands and a whole lot of booze. Swinehart came to the rescue of a friend who was about get roundhoused by a drunken \"cube of jerk\" for pointing that maybe 2AM was a little late for the guy to be out with a baby in tow. \"He was feeding the kid caffeinated beverages so the baby would stay awake and let him keep hanging out at the bar, hitting on teenagers,\" said Swinehart. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Instead, the \"cube of jerk\" (which, as Klatte said, should really be your next band name) punched Swinehart, Kelly jumped the guy from behind, and a lot of drunken security staff moved in. Eventually, the guy was 86'd, only to call the cops and finger a completely different guy--in fact, the drummer of one of the bands--as his attacker. It was a long night, punctuated by an \"indie rock riot\" of crying drunk girls pounding on the police car as the misidentified drummer was hauled away. Eventually, with no charges pressed, everyone got back on the boat for some much-needed cocktails, only to find out that rocker gossip had Swinehart and Kelly busted by the cops for trying to swipe the guy's kid. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As Swinehart deadpanned, \"We did not steal a baby at Senor Frogs.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/sandwich500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/sandwich500.jpg\" alt=\"Vietnamese sandwich from Banh Mi Love You Long Time\" title=\"Vietnamese sandwich from Banh Mi Love You Long Time\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49065\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Vietnamese sandwich from Banh Mi Love You Long Time\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>During the intermission, during a second round of equally excellent Vietnamese sandwiches, we found out that Nguyen also makes sandwiches at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.reddevillounge.com/\">Red Devil Lounge\u003c/a>'s open mic every Tuesday, and does bicycle deliveries throughout the city. Her whole setup--baguettes, toaster oven, ingredients--can fit on a bike trailer. Delivery orders of pre-made sandwiches are packed in re-purposed Anchor Steam six-pack cartons and toted in panniers on her regular bike. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/sandwichmaking500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/sandwichmaking500.jpg\" alt=\"Making Vietnamese Sandwiches\" title=\"Making Vietnamese Sandwiches\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49066\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Jessica Nguyen making Vietnamese Sandwiches\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Back in our seats, we were hoping for some food talk from NPR darlings the Kitchen Sisters, Davia Nelson and Nikki Silva, but instead, they'd brought a snippet of their upcoming radio show, \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.kqed.org/makingof/\">The Making of...\u003c/a>, a collaboration with KQED. While there will be food-related segments on upcoming shows, this one focused on the making of \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/homobiles-san-francisco\">Homomobiles\u003c/a>, musician/performer/writer \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lynn_Breedlove\">Lynn Breedlove\u003c/a>'s non-profit cab company geared towards anyone who, by virtue of gender identity, size of wig or volume of body glitter, might not get a fast, safe ride home in an ordinary cab. As Breedlove said, \"You don't have to be a big bad queer to get a ride, but it does help.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But then, after Boots Riley's truly hair-raising story of getting stopped by MPs on Treasure Island (lesson learned: if an MP orders you to pick up your bullet-less, legally registered gun from the trunk of your car to prove that it's unloaded, do not agree), writers and performance artists Ed Wolf and Kirk Read came on to show how it's a slippery slope from veganism to paying $700 to be locked behind barbed-wire gates while rinsing your lower intestines in wheatgrass juice. According to Wolf, identity in San Francisco was easy in the 1970s. You picked your sexual orientation, your hairdo, your drug(s) of choice, and you were set. By the 1990s, when Reed arrived in the City, \"the whole food thing had got out of hand,\" said Wolf.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You had to know what you were going to be intolerant of,\" said Reed, \"what enzyme your body was going to not produce.\" Working at a health clinic, surrounded by co-workers who smoke and drank, even did a little recreational heroin but also ate raw or were vegan, Reed heard a lot about a quasi-spiritual, raw-food retreat in San Diego. A two-for-one week was $700. How bad could it be? As freshly minted vegans, they already felt smug--not our problem!--as they drove down I-5 past the \"cowschweitz\" of the Harris Ranch feedlots. And then they arrived, to find a compound surrounded by high security gates festooned with signs reading NO PIZZA DELIVERY--a hint that maybe a week of colonics was more than some weak flesh could bear. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/Ed-Kirk500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/Ed-Kirk500.jpg\" alt=\"Kirk Read and Ed Wolf at Porchlight\" title=\"Kirk Read and Ed Wolf at Porchlight\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49063\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Kirk Read and Ed Wolf performing at Porchlight\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Breakfast was one disk of watermelon,\" said Wolf. \"You'd put everything, anything on it--cinnamon, seaweed flakes--trying to give it some taste.\" Exercise was impossible; people \"peeled off\" limply during the quarter-mile hikes around the grounds. The big event? The distribution of buckets filled with wheatgrass juice, not for drinking but for, well, internal cleansing. At one point, they snuck off to see \u003cem>Little Miss Sunshine\u003c/em> and share an apple from Trader Joe's. Finally, at the end of the week, they fled. Just before getting back on I-5, they saw, like a beacon of light, a Denny's. \"We put it down!\" laughed Wolf. \"Grand Slam, everything. Do you know how hard it is to spend $39 at Denny's?\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Kirk Reed will be performing as part of Yerba Buena Center for the Arts' show \u003ca href=\"http://www.ybca.org/wish-you-were-here\">Wish You Were Here\u003c/a> on Sat, Sept 22, from 8pm-12am.\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>The Coup will be playing at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.treasureislandfestival.com\">Treasure Island Music Festival\u003c/a> on Sat, Oct 13.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Every performance-art event should come with a full bar and handmade banh mi. Porchlight Storytelling kicked off its 11th season at the Mission's Verdi Club with dueling tales of Chinese sex ed, wheatgrass going where no wheatgrass should go, and a very bad night at Senor Frogs. ",
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"description": "Every performance-art event should come with a full bar and handmade banh mi. Porchlight Storytelling kicked off its 11th season at the Mission's Verdi Club with dueling tales of Chinese sex ed, wheatgrass going where no wheatgrass should go, and a very bad night at Senor Frogs. ",
"title": "Banh Mi Love You Long Time's Vietnamese Sandwiches at Porchlight Storytelling | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/beth-arlene500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/beth-arlene500.jpg\" alt=\"Beth Lisick and Arline Klatte at Porchlight\" title=\"Beth Lisick and Arline Klatte at Porchlight\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49061\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Beth Lisick and Arline Klatte at Porchlight\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Seriously, every storytelling/reading/performance art show should start in a room that smells like bourbon and banh mi. On Monday, that was the scene at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.verdiclub.net\">Verdi Club\u003c/a> in the northeast Mission, as a capacity crowd squeezed in for the 11th season opener of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.porchlightsf.com\">Porchlight Storytelling Series\u003c/a>. At the old-fashioned bar, the bartenders were busy mixing highballs, grabbing bottles of Peroni and filling stubby glasses to the brim with Italian red. And at a makeshift kitchen (toaster oven, a couple of crock pots, tubs of pickled chiles and squeeze bottles of Sriracha), Jessica Nguyen of \u003ca href=\"http://www.facebook.com/bikebanhmi\">Banh Mi Love You Long Time\u003c/a> was stuffing crisp-toasted lengths of baguette with curry tofu, curry chicken, or slow-cooked pork, adding the necessary magic of cilantro, cucumber, carrot, daikon, and chiles, and handing out dozens of the paper-wrapped sandwiches to the chattering crowd with a smile. At $7, a glass of wine cost a buck more than a sandwich, but with both, you could be very happy for less than fifteen bucks. (Or fifteen even, if you did right and tipped both your bartender and your sandwich-maker.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/Jessica500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/Jessica500.jpg\" alt=\"Jessica Nguyen of Banh Mi Love You Long Time making sandwiches\" title=\"Jessica Nguyen of Banh Mi Love You Long Time making sandwiches\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49064\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Jessica Nguyen of Banh Mi Love You Long Time making Vietnamese sandwiches\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Having moved to Brooklyn just 6 weeks ago, host Beth Lisick was happy to be back in town and back on stage with her co-host, Arline Klatte, after Porchlight's August hiatus. The theme this time? \u003cstrong>Double Dare\u003c/strong>, one story told in tandem by two tellers. (Although \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/BootsRiley\">Boots Riley\u003c/a>, of Oakland hip-hop band \u003ca href=\"http://www.facebook.com/TheCoup\">The Coup\u003c/a>, did get a pass to perform solo, by counting his 6-week-old son in the audience as his silent partner.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>First up, a word from the show's sponsor: a don't-quit-your-day-job turn by Chris Mittelstaedt, founder and CEO of \u003ca href=\"http://fruitguys.com\">The Fruit Guys\u003c/a>, who wore a full-length banana suit while belting out an ode to fruit, backed by Fiona and Simone, his (much cooler) twin 11-year-old daughters on drums and bass, who could ditch Dad and start a \u003ca href=\"http://www.thedonnas.com\">Donnas\u003c/a> cover band any day now.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(In fact, as we discovered via an email from Mittelstaedt after this article was posted, the girls have been in an all-girl band, \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JnlEtDw3umk\">Mysturbia\u003c/a>, for several years now. They'll be playing at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.polkstreetbluesfestival.com\">Polk Street Blues Festival\u003c/a> on Sunday, September 30, at 12 noon as part of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.bird-sf.com/music.html\">Bird Music School\u003c/a> set.) \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/Carol-Robert500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/Carol-Robert500.jpg\" alt=\"Robert Lawrence and Carol Queen at Porchlight\" title=\"Robert Lawrence and Carol Queen at Porchlight\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49062\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Robert Lawrence and Carol Queen at Porchlight\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Next up, doctors of sexology \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/carolqueen\">Carol Queen\u003c/a> and Robert Lawrence, founders of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.sexandculture.org\">Center for Sex and Culture\u003c/a>, and longtime sex educators, authors, and performers. Carol and I even share a food world connection: back in 1996, we were both contributors to a (now long out-of-print) cookbook of celebrity recipes put together to raise money for AIDS organizations. Titled \u003cem>Food for Life and Other Dish, \u003c/em>it offered recipes for novelist Dorothy Allison's Red Velvet Cake, drag star RuPaul's Coush-Coush, \"The Apple Pie That Seduced My Girlfriend\" from writer Rebecca Brown, and many more. Carol was posed in front of her kitchen counter, breaking eggs, while I was snapped standing on top of my stove holding a pie while wearing a checked gingham dress and a Louise Brooks wig. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, we go way back, Carol and I, but I didn't know that, around the same time as that cookbook was coming out, she and Robert had gotten a $24,000 grant from the Ford Foundation to present a sex-ed lecture (and some educational porn) to the top brass of China's health administration in Beijing. Their week in Beijing, buttressed by a squadron of translators, included a foray to what was, at the time, Beijing's only gay bar, and the discovery of the late-night gay cruising scene near the illegal bok choy market. The Chinese phrase for the semi-public sex happening wherever a tiny slice of semi-privacy could be found? \"Trembling bushes.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then it was over to the \u003ca href=\"http://www.senorfrogs.com/\">Senor Frogs\u003c/a> in Nassau with Anneke Swinehart and Sean Kelly, a place of \"wet t-shirts, yard-long margarita glasses, and alcoholic Kool-Aid,\" that was the first stop of the Bruise Cruise, a floating indie-rock extravaganza of dozens of bands and a whole lot of booze. Swinehart came to the rescue of a friend who was about get roundhoused by a drunken \"cube of jerk\" for pointing that maybe 2AM was a little late for the guy to be out with a baby in tow. \"He was feeding the kid caffeinated beverages so the baby would stay awake and let him keep hanging out at the bar, hitting on teenagers,\" said Swinehart. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Instead, the \"cube of jerk\" (which, as Klatte said, should really be your next band name) punched Swinehart, Kelly jumped the guy from behind, and a lot of drunken security staff moved in. Eventually, the guy was 86'd, only to call the cops and finger a completely different guy--in fact, the drummer of one of the bands--as his attacker. It was a long night, punctuated by an \"indie rock riot\" of crying drunk girls pounding on the police car as the misidentified drummer was hauled away. Eventually, with no charges pressed, everyone got back on the boat for some much-needed cocktails, only to find out that rocker gossip had Swinehart and Kelly busted by the cops for trying to swipe the guy's kid. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As Swinehart deadpanned, \"We did not steal a baby at Senor Frogs.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/sandwich500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/sandwich500.jpg\" alt=\"Vietnamese sandwich from Banh Mi Love You Long Time\" title=\"Vietnamese sandwich from Banh Mi Love You Long Time\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49065\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Vietnamese sandwich from Banh Mi Love You Long Time\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>During the intermission, during a second round of equally excellent Vietnamese sandwiches, we found out that Nguyen also makes sandwiches at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.reddevillounge.com/\">Red Devil Lounge\u003c/a>'s open mic every Tuesday, and does bicycle deliveries throughout the city. Her whole setup--baguettes, toaster oven, ingredients--can fit on a bike trailer. Delivery orders of pre-made sandwiches are packed in re-purposed Anchor Steam six-pack cartons and toted in panniers on her regular bike. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/sandwichmaking500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/sandwichmaking500.jpg\" alt=\"Making Vietnamese Sandwiches\" title=\"Making Vietnamese Sandwiches\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49066\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Jessica Nguyen making Vietnamese Sandwiches\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Back in our seats, we were hoping for some food talk from NPR darlings the Kitchen Sisters, Davia Nelson and Nikki Silva, but instead, they'd brought a snippet of their upcoming radio show, \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.kqed.org/makingof/\">The Making of...\u003c/a>, a collaboration with KQED. While there will be food-related segments on upcoming shows, this one focused on the making of \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/homobiles-san-francisco\">Homomobiles\u003c/a>, musician/performer/writer \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lynn_Breedlove\">Lynn Breedlove\u003c/a>'s non-profit cab company geared towards anyone who, by virtue of gender identity, size of wig or volume of body glitter, might not get a fast, safe ride home in an ordinary cab. As Breedlove said, \"You don't have to be a big bad queer to get a ride, but it does help.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But then, after Boots Riley's truly hair-raising story of getting stopped by MPs on Treasure Island (lesson learned: if an MP orders you to pick up your bullet-less, legally registered gun from the trunk of your car to prove that it's unloaded, do not agree), writers and performance artists Ed Wolf and Kirk Read came on to show how it's a slippery slope from veganism to paying $700 to be locked behind barbed-wire gates while rinsing your lower intestines in wheatgrass juice. According to Wolf, identity in San Francisco was easy in the 1970s. You picked your sexual orientation, your hairdo, your drug(s) of choice, and you were set. By the 1990s, when Reed arrived in the City, \"the whole food thing had got out of hand,\" said Wolf.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You had to know what you were going to be intolerant of,\" said Reed, \"what enzyme your body was going to not produce.\" Working at a health clinic, surrounded by co-workers who smoke and drank, even did a little recreational heroin but also ate raw or were vegan, Reed heard a lot about a quasi-spiritual, raw-food retreat in San Diego. A two-for-one week was $700. How bad could it be? As freshly minted vegans, they already felt smug--not our problem!--as they drove down I-5 past the \"cowschweitz\" of the Harris Ranch feedlots. And then they arrived, to find a compound surrounded by high security gates festooned with signs reading NO PIZZA DELIVERY--a hint that maybe a week of colonics was more than some weak flesh could bear. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/Ed-Kirk500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/Ed-Kirk500.jpg\" alt=\"Kirk Read and Ed Wolf at Porchlight\" title=\"Kirk Read and Ed Wolf at Porchlight\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49063\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Kirk Read and Ed Wolf performing at Porchlight\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Breakfast was one disk of watermelon,\" said Wolf. \"You'd put everything, anything on it--cinnamon, seaweed flakes--trying to give it some taste.\" Exercise was impossible; people \"peeled off\" limply during the quarter-mile hikes around the grounds. The big event? The distribution of buckets filled with wheatgrass juice, not for drinking but for, well, internal cleansing. At one point, they snuck off to see \u003cem>Little Miss Sunshine\u003c/em> and share an apple from Trader Joe's. Finally, at the end of the week, they fled. Just before getting back on I-5, they saw, like a beacon of light, a Denny's. \"We put it down!\" laughed Wolf. \"Grand Slam, everything. Do you know how hard it is to spend $39 at Denny's?\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/John-T400.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/John-T400.jpg\" alt=\"John T. Edge. Image courtesy of Lou Weinert\" title=\"John T. Edge. Image courtesy of Lou Weinert\" width=\"400\" height=\"600\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-48758\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>John T. Edge. Image courtesy of Lou Weinert\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Food celeb alert! One of the most intriguing parts about La Cocina’s \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/08/20/night-market-sf-street-food-festival/\">Night Market\u003c/a> last month was spying a smiling \u003ca href=\"http://www.johntedge.com/\">John T. Edge\u003c/a> at the entrance. The Southern food and culture expert is good pals with La Cocina's Caleb Zigas, and was in town to yes, eat, but also help with the \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/08/20/san-francisco-street-food-festival-2012-photo-slideshow/\">SF Street Food Fest\u003c/a> and third annual \u003ca href=\"http://www.lacocinasf.org/classes-workshops/conference/\">Food & Entrepreneurship Conference\u003c/a> from La Cocina.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Edge is the author of the recently published \u003ca href=\"http://truckfoodcookbook.tumblr.com/\">The Truck Food Cookbook\u003c/a>, which is billed as “a cookbook and travelogue that catalogues modern American street and truck food.” He has authored and edited more than ten books and is well known for researching and championing food via his work with the \u003ca href=\"http://southernfoodways.org/\">Southern Foodways Alliance\u003c/a> (SFA). Next month, the Southern Foodways Alliance will hold a symposium in Oxford, Mississippi and Edge wears many caps: organizer, host, and master of ceremonies. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He is also a columnist for the \u003cem>New York Times\u003c/em>, the \u003cem>Oxford American\u003c/em> and \u003ca href=\"http://gardenandgun.com/food\">\u003cem>Garden & Gun\u003c/em>\u003c/a>. Radio fans can catch him often on NPR's \u003cem>All Things Considered\u003c/em> and he has appeared on Iron Chef and has a MFK Fisher Distinguished Writing Award from the James Beard Foundation under his belt. His work has also been featured in 10 editions of the Best Food Writing Anthology, and yes, you may at this point wonder when he ever sleeps, too. Bay Area Bites interviewed Edge on the phone recently.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites:\u003c/strong> \u003cstrong>You were in San Francisco to help La Cocina with its conference and Street Food Festival and for years have been good friends with Caleb Zigas. How did that all come about? \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Edge:\u003c/strong> I write about food for the popular press: magazine, newspaper pieces and books. I’m also interested though in relation to my academic work at the University of Southern Mississippi in how food plays a part in social justice issues. When I began working on my truck food book, I saw two real models that address social justice issues and street food truck and food cart food. That framework is what Caleb and La Cocina does and what the \u003ca href=\"http://streetvendor.org/vendys/\">Vendy awards\u003c/a> in New York also do.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Both are populist responses in effective ways to advocate for street food vendors. I am someone who thinks that writing about food need not be vacuous work, and that food isn’t always about celebrity food. It’s not always about the fancy pants dinner but about working class American food and especially how that relates to new immigrants. That’s important to me as a writer -- as a progressive thinker and doer in America. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites:\u003c/strong> \u003cstrong>Events and travel seem to make up much of your work when you're not writing. What’s that like?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Edge:\u003c/strong> I travel probably one-fourth to one-third of my time and that travel is half the time for writing assignments and research and the other half is for Southern Alliance Foodways events and fundraising. I love that kind of intense time with colleagues and friends who arrive like bandits. Those kinds of quick intense periods of “work ‘til 11, drink ‘til 3” I love... but you know I also live in a small college town that I dearly love and have an eleven year old and 40-something wife, both of whom I love, too. As time goes on, I’m trying to balance that time at home and time in the office. I am not just saying this about the Street Food Festival and La Cocina but it’s gonna get harder and harder to get my butt on the road. However, anytime I can do something for La Cocina and Caleb, I will.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We live in a time of xenophobia, especially where I am in the South where immigrants are pilloried. I was raised in the South and appreciate the import of the Civil Rights movement. I see a new era in which the divisions are based along ethnicity and class and I see what La Cocina and the Street Food Fest does is one creative way to address that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Where do you get your information about food? What’s on your nightstand reading pile?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Edge:\u003c/strong> On my nightstand, there are about four copies of the New Yorker that I’m way behind on. There’s a copy of Knife and Fork, a brilliant food letter out of Atlanta edited by Christiane Lauterbach. Her writing is full of spirit and venom and I’ve been reading her for 25 years. There’s a new copy of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.oxfordamerican.org/\">Oxford American\u003c/a>, which I’ve long been writing for.... Then there’s The Liberation of Lord Byron Jones by a guy named Jesse Hill Ford. And I’m reading a book called the Price of Defiance about the 50th anniversary of the riots at the University of Mississippi. There’s not a lot of food stuff on my nightstand. I read and subscribe to Bon Appétit, Gastronomica and a number of other magazines. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Who are your mentors?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Edge:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/John_Egerton_(journalist)\">John Egerton\u003c/a>. The name sounds familiar, I know. He has two books that speak about the generation before the civil rights movement and around the Brown decision....You see Southern food at home, on the road and here’s a popular history of southern food. His is the first book to pay down the debt that the South owes to the cooks who have sustained us cooks who are and were African American.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://africooks.com/jessicas_bio.shtml\">Jessica Harris\u003c/a> is another one of my mentors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites:\u003c/strong> \u003cstrong>What are your thoughts on the state of street food in the Bay Area given you just published The Truck Food Cookbook? Where are we with knowledge and appreciation?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Edge:\u003c/strong> When I was researching this book in 2009 and 2010 in many ways the Bay Area lagged behind much of the country. Incubator events like La Cocina and \u003ca href=\"http://offthegridsf.com/\">Off the Grid\u003c/a> coupled with entrepreneurial acumen in folks like \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/LIBAfalafel\">Liba Falafel\u003c/a> and the \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/KungFuTacos\">Kung Fu Tacos\u003c/a> guys and certainly \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/RoliRoti\">Roli Roti\u003c/a>. Those systematic efforts and singular efforts of entrepreneurs delivered a vital street food scene. I assumed if street food was growing in the U.S. and San Francisco is such a great food town, you’d see that reflected. But at the time I was researching, San Francisco wasn’t a strong street food city. Now when I return it is. It’s the working class end of things. If you’re going to define a street food scene as vital it has to encompass both ends of the spectrum.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003cbr>\nBay Area Bites: What were some of your favorite food and drink finds while you were in town?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Edge:\u003c/strong> I don't know (laughs). I had a crazy beautiful dinner at \u003ca href=\"http://coirestaurant.com/\">Coi\u003c/a>. A kind of elegant bowl of grits of ground corn with a garnish of popcorn. That was one of many beautiful dishes in a night. The ballsiness of [Chef-Owner \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/01/07/food-secrets-of-chefrestaurateurwriter-daniel-patterson/\">Daniel] Patterson\u003c/a> and elegance of his cooking in one dish: I admired the heck out of that. “I’m going to serve you grits with an ancient native American pedigree and serve it with something you already recognize. I’m going to do it in such a way that I can honor the commonalities and also celebrate my own way with ground corn.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: \u003c/strong>Did he know you were coming in?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Edge: \u003c/strong>He did.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites:\u003c/strong> \u003cstrong>Do you have any foods that are a guilty pleasure?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Edge:\u003c/strong> No. I like trash and treasure. (laughs). I live with an eleven year old son, Jess. He loves pork rinds from a bag like I do. He likes crinkle cut French fries like I do. I kind of like the extremes on the spectrum. We each had a trashy sausage biscuit today. I like excellence in both forms. You can be really good at trashy food and elegant food and I appreciate that. \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Mary Ladd interviews Southern food and culture expert John T. Edge, who shares why he was happy to visit San Francisco for La Cocina’s Street Food Festival as well as thoughts on his latest book, \"The Truck Food Cookbook.\"",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/John-T400.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/John-T400.jpg\" alt=\"John T. Edge. Image courtesy of Lou Weinert\" title=\"John T. Edge. Image courtesy of Lou Weinert\" width=\"400\" height=\"600\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-48758\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>John T. Edge. Image courtesy of Lou Weinert\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Food celeb alert! One of the most intriguing parts about La Cocina’s \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/08/20/night-market-sf-street-food-festival/\">Night Market\u003c/a> last month was spying a smiling \u003ca href=\"http://www.johntedge.com/\">John T. Edge\u003c/a> at the entrance. The Southern food and culture expert is good pals with La Cocina's Caleb Zigas, and was in town to yes, eat, but also help with the \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/08/20/san-francisco-street-food-festival-2012-photo-slideshow/\">SF Street Food Fest\u003c/a> and third annual \u003ca href=\"http://www.lacocinasf.org/classes-workshops/conference/\">Food & Entrepreneurship Conference\u003c/a> from La Cocina.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Edge is the author of the recently published \u003ca href=\"http://truckfoodcookbook.tumblr.com/\">The Truck Food Cookbook\u003c/a>, which is billed as “a cookbook and travelogue that catalogues modern American street and truck food.” He has authored and edited more than ten books and is well known for researching and championing food via his work with the \u003ca href=\"http://southernfoodways.org/\">Southern Foodways Alliance\u003c/a> (SFA). Next month, the Southern Foodways Alliance will hold a symposium in Oxford, Mississippi and Edge wears many caps: organizer, host, and master of ceremonies. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He is also a columnist for the \u003cem>New York Times\u003c/em>, the \u003cem>Oxford American\u003c/em> and \u003ca href=\"http://gardenandgun.com/food\">\u003cem>Garden & Gun\u003c/em>\u003c/a>. Radio fans can catch him often on NPR's \u003cem>All Things Considered\u003c/em> and he has appeared on Iron Chef and has a MFK Fisher Distinguished Writing Award from the James Beard Foundation under his belt. His work has also been featured in 10 editions of the Best Food Writing Anthology, and yes, you may at this point wonder when he ever sleeps, too. Bay Area Bites interviewed Edge on the phone recently.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites:\u003c/strong> \u003cstrong>You were in San Francisco to help La Cocina with its conference and Street Food Festival and for years have been good friends with Caleb Zigas. How did that all come about? \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Edge:\u003c/strong> I write about food for the popular press: magazine, newspaper pieces and books. I’m also interested though in relation to my academic work at the University of Southern Mississippi in how food plays a part in social justice issues. When I began working on my truck food book, I saw two real models that address social justice issues and street food truck and food cart food. That framework is what Caleb and La Cocina does and what the \u003ca href=\"http://streetvendor.org/vendys/\">Vendy awards\u003c/a> in New York also do.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Both are populist responses in effective ways to advocate for street food vendors. I am someone who thinks that writing about food need not be vacuous work, and that food isn’t always about celebrity food. It’s not always about the fancy pants dinner but about working class American food and especially how that relates to new immigrants. That’s important to me as a writer -- as a progressive thinker and doer in America. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites:\u003c/strong> \u003cstrong>Events and travel seem to make up much of your work when you're not writing. What’s that like?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Edge:\u003c/strong> I travel probably one-fourth to one-third of my time and that travel is half the time for writing assignments and research and the other half is for Southern Alliance Foodways events and fundraising. I love that kind of intense time with colleagues and friends who arrive like bandits. Those kinds of quick intense periods of “work ‘til 11, drink ‘til 3” I love... but you know I also live in a small college town that I dearly love and have an eleven year old and 40-something wife, both of whom I love, too. As time goes on, I’m trying to balance that time at home and time in the office. I am not just saying this about the Street Food Festival and La Cocina but it’s gonna get harder and harder to get my butt on the road. However, anytime I can do something for La Cocina and Caleb, I will.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We live in a time of xenophobia, especially where I am in the South where immigrants are pilloried. I was raised in the South and appreciate the import of the Civil Rights movement. I see a new era in which the divisions are based along ethnicity and class and I see what La Cocina and the Street Food Fest does is one creative way to address that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Where do you get your information about food? What’s on your nightstand reading pile?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Edge:\u003c/strong> On my nightstand, there are about four copies of the New Yorker that I’m way behind on. There’s a copy of Knife and Fork, a brilliant food letter out of Atlanta edited by Christiane Lauterbach. Her writing is full of spirit and venom and I’ve been reading her for 25 years. There’s a new copy of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.oxfordamerican.org/\">Oxford American\u003c/a>, which I’ve long been writing for.... Then there’s The Liberation of Lord Byron Jones by a guy named Jesse Hill Ford. And I’m reading a book called the Price of Defiance about the 50th anniversary of the riots at the University of Mississippi. There’s not a lot of food stuff on my nightstand. I read and subscribe to Bon Appétit, Gastronomica and a number of other magazines. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Who are your mentors?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Edge:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/John_Egerton_(journalist)\">John Egerton\u003c/a>. The name sounds familiar, I know. He has two books that speak about the generation before the civil rights movement and around the Brown decision....You see Southern food at home, on the road and here’s a popular history of southern food. His is the first book to pay down the debt that the South owes to the cooks who have sustained us cooks who are and were African American.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://africooks.com/jessicas_bio.shtml\">Jessica Harris\u003c/a> is another one of my mentors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites:\u003c/strong> \u003cstrong>What are your thoughts on the state of street food in the Bay Area given you just published The Truck Food Cookbook? Where are we with knowledge and appreciation?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Edge:\u003c/strong> When I was researching this book in 2009 and 2010 in many ways the Bay Area lagged behind much of the country. Incubator events like La Cocina and \u003ca href=\"http://offthegridsf.com/\">Off the Grid\u003c/a> coupled with entrepreneurial acumen in folks like \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/LIBAfalafel\">Liba Falafel\u003c/a> and the \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/KungFuTacos\">Kung Fu Tacos\u003c/a> guys and certainly \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/RoliRoti\">Roli Roti\u003c/a>. Those systematic efforts and singular efforts of entrepreneurs delivered a vital street food scene. I assumed if street food was growing in the U.S. and San Francisco is such a great food town, you’d see that reflected. But at the time I was researching, San Francisco wasn’t a strong street food city. Now when I return it is. It’s the working class end of things. If you’re going to define a street food scene as vital it has to encompass both ends of the spectrum.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003cbr>\nBay Area Bites: What were some of your favorite food and drink finds while you were in town?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Edge:\u003c/strong> I don't know (laughs). I had a crazy beautiful dinner at \u003ca href=\"http://coirestaurant.com/\">Coi\u003c/a>. A kind of elegant bowl of grits of ground corn with a garnish of popcorn. That was one of many beautiful dishes in a night. The ballsiness of [Chef-Owner \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/01/07/food-secrets-of-chefrestaurateurwriter-daniel-patterson/\">Daniel] Patterson\u003c/a> and elegance of his cooking in one dish: I admired the heck out of that. “I’m going to serve you grits with an ancient native American pedigree and serve it with something you already recognize. I’m going to do it in such a way that I can honor the commonalities and also celebrate my own way with ground corn.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: \u003c/strong>Did he know you were coming in?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Edge: \u003c/strong>He did.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites:\u003c/strong> \u003cstrong>Do you have any foods that are a guilty pleasure?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Edge:\u003c/strong> No. I like trash and treasure. (laughs). I live with an eleven year old son, Jess. He loves pork rinds from a bag like I do. He likes crinkle cut French fries like I do. I kind of like the extremes on the spectrum. We each had a trashy sausage biscuit today. I like excellence in both forms. You can be really good at trashy food and elegant food and I appreciate that. \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/08/Nion-finalBAB.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/08/Nion-finalBAB.jpg\" alt=\"Nion McEvoy\" title=\"Nion McEvoy\" width=\"400\" height=\"600\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-46964\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Nion McEvoy. Photo credit: Najib Joe Hakim\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/ntmce\">Nion McEvoy\u003c/a>, 60, has steadily built a media empire that currently includes \u003ca href=\"http://www.chroniclebooks.com/\">Chronicle Books\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.7x7.com/\">7x7\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.californiahomedesign.com/magazine\">California Home and Design Magazine\u003c/a>, all of which are stylishly housed in one building near the Giant’s ballpark. At Chronicle Books, McEvoy is the chairman, CEO and owner. He is a descendant of M.H. de Young, who founded the \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/\">San Francisco Chronicle\u003c/a> and was the co-founder of San Francisco’s cotillion ball for debutantes. Chronicle Books is a separate entity from the media outlet and McEvoy bought and took over Chronicle Books in 1999. McEvoy is trained as an attorney and also has a hand in \u003ca href=\"http://www.mcevoyranch.com/the-ranch/our-oils\">McEvoy Olive Oil\u003c/a>, which was started by his mother Nan McEvoy and is known as much for its peppery olive oils as it is for its annual harvest celebration for 500 luminaries and friends. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Having Chronicle Books based in San Francisco is interesting on many fronts: the publishing industry has historically set up shop and celebrated itself on the east coast. The company’s catalog is rich with books on cooking and food, but there’s also music (\u003ca href=\"http://www.chroniclebooks.com/titles/the-beatles-anthology.html\">Beatles\u003c/a> fans take note), art and photography, kids books, gardening and fiction titles as well as the world’s cutest dog with over three million \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/Boo\">Facebook\u003c/a> fans, \u003ca href=\"http://www.chroniclebooks.com/titles/life-style/pets/boo-little-dog-in-the-big-city.html\">Boo\u003c/a>. Boo potentially manages to charm even those who normally find small dogs to be sort of lame and annoying (guilty!). Chronicle Books reflects local excellence with successful titles that include \u003ca href=\"http://www.chroniclebooks.com/titles/food-drink/baking-desserts/miette.html\">Miette\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.chroniclebooks.com/titles/food-drink/chefs-restaurants/tartine.html\">Tartine\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.chroniclebooks.com/titles/food-drink/general-cookbooks/tartine-bread.html\">Tartine Bread\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.chroniclebooks.com/titles/food-drink/general-cookbooks/michael-chiarello-s-bottega.html\">Bottega\u003c/a> by Michael Chiarello, \u003ca href=\"http://www.chroniclebooks.com/titles/food-drink/health-vegetarian/simply-organic.html\">Simply Organic\u003c/a> by Jesse Ziff Cool, and the \u003ca href=\"http://www.chroniclebooks.com/titles/life-style/travel/the-san-francisco-ferry-plaza-farmers-market-cookbook.html\">San Francisco Ferry Plaza Farmers’ Market Cookbook\u003c/a>, according to Sarah Billingsley, who is Associate Editor at Chronicle Books. Food titles with national reach include the bestselling \u003ca href=\"http://www.chroniclebooks.com/titles/food-drink/baking-desserts/cake-pops-by-bakerella.html\">Cake Pops\u003c/a> as well as \u003ca href=\"http://www.chroniclebooks.com/titles/food-drink/general-cookbooks/weber-s-big-book-of-grilling.html\">Weber’s Big Book of Grilling\u003c/a> and the vegetable-focused book \u003ca href=\"http://www.chroniclebooks.com/titles/food-drink/health-vegetarian/plenty.html\">Plenty\u003c/a>. Bay Area Bites interviewed McEvoy, Billingsley and Peter Perez, who is Associate Marketing Director, Food & Drink/Art Publishing at Chronicle Books. Their comments have been condensed for clarity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.chroniclebooks.com/\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/08/chronicle-books.jpg\" alt=\"Chronicle Books\" title=\"Chronicle Books\" width=\"560\" height=\"173\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-47679\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What’s new with Chronicle Books?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>McEvoy:\u003c/em> We were really blown away by Cake Pops by \u003ca href=\"http://www.bakerella.com/\">Bakerella\u003c/a>. The sales numbers are pretty insane and it’s been a huge success. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The sun was out more often than not last year and we had a good year. Over the last decade, the world of publishing has been troubled, anxious and confused yet we’ve always been profitable. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Perez:\u003c/em> It’s really exciting that we’re putting out the \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/YigitPura\">Yigit Pura\u003c/a> cookbook. He’s opening Tout Sweet at Macy’s any day now and he’s such a lovely chef. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: How did that come about?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Perez:\u003c/em> Here's a good piece of local gossip: Yigit knows \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/11/02/san-francisco-food-secrets-of-frankie-frankeny-and-chloe-harris/\">Frankie Frankeny\u003c/a> and Frankie’s wife \u003ca href=\"http://www.7x7.com/user/182\">Chloé Harris Frankeny\u003c/a> through the \u003ca href=\"http://www.marriageequality.org/\">Marriage Equality\u003c/a> movement. The book idea was from them organically talking in a way that’s more closely knit rather than just an agent’s proposal arriving on our desk.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What role does social media play at Chronicle Books?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>McEvoy:\u003c/em> The biggest food app that people rely on is Instagram. Everyone relies on what they saw and ate and everyone here is in love with it. We have a huge Pinterest culture and find authors there. So much of social media is relational and about discovering. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Perez:\u003c/em> We were early adapters to \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/ChronicleBooks\">Twitter\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/ChronicleBooks\">Facebook\u003c/a>, Instagram and Pinterest and find neat ways to get people’s response. We’re really conscientious of being tastemakers and trend watchers; we’ve been publishing for over 25 years. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The most primal thing that’s been going on now close to five years is that we have a regular food based blog post weekly. I’ll write it or I often get our authors to guest blog. One of our best selling authors is Bakerella -- and we’re approaching a million copies with her book. When she’s a guest blogger for us, it’s mutually beneficial. It’s not paid placement and it’s really through the social experience online. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the blog, usually there’s a recipe embedded to give people a connection to the book. We share recipes, and it’s a PDF that you absolutely have permission to keep that content. Or we do Q&As and quizzes that get a huge response. We’ll do a crowd source kind of thing, where we use Instagram for hashtags and say, “Tell us your favorite ice cream flavor.” We \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/06/23/the-humphry-slocombe-ice-cream-book-review-and-recipe-for-blue-bottle-vietnamese-coffee-ice-cream/\">published\u003c/a> \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/11/12/food-secrets-of-humphry-slocombes-jake-godby-sean-vahey/\">Humphry Slocombe\u003c/a> and they have over 300K Twitter followers. We let the author be a judge, and select who we pick. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There’s more behind the scenes and context on why we published the book. When we do giveaways, it’s to get people to comment and instigate a response. We have a lot more readers than commentators. We’re trying to engage and not be hard hitting with, “Buy our books.” We know people love our books for a reason and we publish things we really believe in. It’s not just a crass commercial operation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Why keep Chronicle Books in San Francisco?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>McEvoy:\u003c/em> I’ve always thought that one of the advantages is there isn’t that much publishing in San Francisco so you don’t go out and have drinks on the town and run into folks. It’s an interesting world we live in out here. My kids are so into Facebook and I just see a world where we get increasingly digital and fast-paced and non-material. At the same time we have Slow Food and caring about where the chicken went to high school. We are increasingly interested in the physical and sensuous real world as a counterbalance to how much time we spend in our little screens and boxes. We are in fact all mammals and it’s under reported how much we like things.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Nion, what’s your involvement with McEvoy olive oil & what’s the story there? \u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>McEvoy:\u003c/em> My mom used to say, “Sometimes I think in my last incarnation I was a medieval farmer because I love olive oil and bread so much.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mom got the property in Marin and thought it’d be a nice place for my kids. Marin wouldn’t let her do anything unless it was with an agricultural purpose and she thought olives. I introduced her to Maggie Klein's book \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Feast-Olive-Cooking-Olives-Oil/dp/0811805239\">The Feast of the Olive\u003c/a> and then to Italian olive expert Maurizio Caselli. Maurizio looked at it and said “Oh yes, perfect.” Then my mom imported seedlings from different Tuscan varietals and planted her first crop with olive trees. She’s 93 now and does not make all the executive decisions so I get pulled in to help out. Our little marketing dept Christina Cavallaro and Jane Steele--who both worked at Chronicle Books at one time-- thought it’d be good to go into lotions and skin care products for our 80 Acres line. We had to learn that from scratch. Then a few years ago we released our 1st scent/flavor called verde. Then after that, we did lavender and blood orange. Those have been dramatically successful and now sell in Harrod’s. The relation between olive oil and Chronicle Books is that both companies share a love for high quality and the beautiful and sensuously pleasing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Nion, what are your favorite Bay Area spots for food & drink? \u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>McEvoy:\u003c/em> \u003ca href=\"http://www.331fish.com/food/index.html\">Fish\u003c/a> in Sausalito for the Vietnamese salmon banh mi and \u003ca href=\"http://outthedoors.com/\">Out the Door\u003c/a> for chicken pho. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Nion, what is your guiltiest food pleasure?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>McEvoy:\u003c/em> Caramel and sea salt ice cream from \u003ca href=\"http://www.wholefoodsmarket.com/\">Whole Foods\u003c/a>. I’m not that susceptible to junk food but I am susceptible to food.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>Chronicle Books is having a \u003cstrong>Back To School Warehouse Sale\u003c/strong>, where you can save 65% on select titles. Peter Perez recommends arriving early for the best deals and selection.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>WHERE:\u003c/strong> Chronicle Books Corporate Headquarters ONLY\u003cbr>\n680 Second Street\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94107\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>WHEN:\u003c/strong> Wednesday, August 22, 9:00 am-7:00 pm\u003cbr>\nThursday, August 23, 9:00 am-7:00 pm\u003cbr>\nFriday, August 24, 9:00 am-7:00 pm\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/08/Nion-finalBAB.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/08/Nion-finalBAB.jpg\" alt=\"Nion McEvoy\" title=\"Nion McEvoy\" width=\"400\" height=\"600\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-46964\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Nion McEvoy. Photo credit: Najib Joe Hakim\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/ntmce\">Nion McEvoy\u003c/a>, 60, has steadily built a media empire that currently includes \u003ca href=\"http://www.chroniclebooks.com/\">Chronicle Books\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.7x7.com/\">7x7\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.californiahomedesign.com/magazine\">California Home and Design Magazine\u003c/a>, all of which are stylishly housed in one building near the Giant’s ballpark. At Chronicle Books, McEvoy is the chairman, CEO and owner. He is a descendant of M.H. de Young, who founded the \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/\">San Francisco Chronicle\u003c/a> and was the co-founder of San Francisco’s cotillion ball for debutantes. Chronicle Books is a separate entity from the media outlet and McEvoy bought and took over Chronicle Books in 1999. McEvoy is trained as an attorney and also has a hand in \u003ca href=\"http://www.mcevoyranch.com/the-ranch/our-oils\">McEvoy Olive Oil\u003c/a>, which was started by his mother Nan McEvoy and is known as much for its peppery olive oils as it is for its annual harvest celebration for 500 luminaries and friends. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Having Chronicle Books based in San Francisco is interesting on many fronts: the publishing industry has historically set up shop and celebrated itself on the east coast. The company’s catalog is rich with books on cooking and food, but there’s also music (\u003ca href=\"http://www.chroniclebooks.com/titles/the-beatles-anthology.html\">Beatles\u003c/a> fans take note), art and photography, kids books, gardening and fiction titles as well as the world’s cutest dog with over three million \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/Boo\">Facebook\u003c/a> fans, \u003ca href=\"http://www.chroniclebooks.com/titles/life-style/pets/boo-little-dog-in-the-big-city.html\">Boo\u003c/a>. Boo potentially manages to charm even those who normally find small dogs to be sort of lame and annoying (guilty!). Chronicle Books reflects local excellence with successful titles that include \u003ca href=\"http://www.chroniclebooks.com/titles/food-drink/baking-desserts/miette.html\">Miette\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.chroniclebooks.com/titles/food-drink/chefs-restaurants/tartine.html\">Tartine\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.chroniclebooks.com/titles/food-drink/general-cookbooks/tartine-bread.html\">Tartine Bread\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.chroniclebooks.com/titles/food-drink/general-cookbooks/michael-chiarello-s-bottega.html\">Bottega\u003c/a> by Michael Chiarello, \u003ca href=\"http://www.chroniclebooks.com/titles/food-drink/health-vegetarian/simply-organic.html\">Simply Organic\u003c/a> by Jesse Ziff Cool, and the \u003ca href=\"http://www.chroniclebooks.com/titles/life-style/travel/the-san-francisco-ferry-plaza-farmers-market-cookbook.html\">San Francisco Ferry Plaza Farmers’ Market Cookbook\u003c/a>, according to Sarah Billingsley, who is Associate Editor at Chronicle Books. Food titles with national reach include the bestselling \u003ca href=\"http://www.chroniclebooks.com/titles/food-drink/baking-desserts/cake-pops-by-bakerella.html\">Cake Pops\u003c/a> as well as \u003ca href=\"http://www.chroniclebooks.com/titles/food-drink/general-cookbooks/weber-s-big-book-of-grilling.html\">Weber’s Big Book of Grilling\u003c/a> and the vegetable-focused book \u003ca href=\"http://www.chroniclebooks.com/titles/food-drink/health-vegetarian/plenty.html\">Plenty\u003c/a>. Bay Area Bites interviewed McEvoy, Billingsley and Peter Perez, who is Associate Marketing Director, Food & Drink/Art Publishing at Chronicle Books. Their comments have been condensed for clarity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.chroniclebooks.com/\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/08/chronicle-books.jpg\" alt=\"Chronicle Books\" title=\"Chronicle Books\" width=\"560\" height=\"173\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-47679\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What’s new with Chronicle Books?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>McEvoy:\u003c/em> We were really blown away by Cake Pops by \u003ca href=\"http://www.bakerella.com/\">Bakerella\u003c/a>. The sales numbers are pretty insane and it’s been a huge success. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The sun was out more often than not last year and we had a good year. Over the last decade, the world of publishing has been troubled, anxious and confused yet we’ve always been profitable. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Perez:\u003c/em> It’s really exciting that we’re putting out the \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/YigitPura\">Yigit Pura\u003c/a> cookbook. He’s opening Tout Sweet at Macy’s any day now and he’s such a lovely chef. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: How did that come about?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Perez:\u003c/em> Here's a good piece of local gossip: Yigit knows \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/11/02/san-francisco-food-secrets-of-frankie-frankeny-and-chloe-harris/\">Frankie Frankeny\u003c/a> and Frankie’s wife \u003ca href=\"http://www.7x7.com/user/182\">Chloé Harris Frankeny\u003c/a> through the \u003ca href=\"http://www.marriageequality.org/\">Marriage Equality\u003c/a> movement. The book idea was from them organically talking in a way that’s more closely knit rather than just an agent’s proposal arriving on our desk.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What role does social media play at Chronicle Books?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>McEvoy:\u003c/em> The biggest food app that people rely on is Instagram. Everyone relies on what they saw and ate and everyone here is in love with it. We have a huge Pinterest culture and find authors there. So much of social media is relational and about discovering. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Perez:\u003c/em> We were early adapters to \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/ChronicleBooks\">Twitter\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/ChronicleBooks\">Facebook\u003c/a>, Instagram and Pinterest and find neat ways to get people’s response. We’re really conscientious of being tastemakers and trend watchers; we’ve been publishing for over 25 years. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The most primal thing that’s been going on now close to five years is that we have a regular food based blog post weekly. I’ll write it or I often get our authors to guest blog. One of our best selling authors is Bakerella -- and we’re approaching a million copies with her book. When she’s a guest blogger for us, it’s mutually beneficial. It’s not paid placement and it’s really through the social experience online. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the blog, usually there’s a recipe embedded to give people a connection to the book. We share recipes, and it’s a PDF that you absolutely have permission to keep that content. Or we do Q&As and quizzes that get a huge response. We’ll do a crowd source kind of thing, where we use Instagram for hashtags and say, “Tell us your favorite ice cream flavor.” We \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/06/23/the-humphry-slocombe-ice-cream-book-review-and-recipe-for-blue-bottle-vietnamese-coffee-ice-cream/\">published\u003c/a> \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/11/12/food-secrets-of-humphry-slocombes-jake-godby-sean-vahey/\">Humphry Slocombe\u003c/a> and they have over 300K Twitter followers. We let the author be a judge, and select who we pick. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There’s more behind the scenes and context on why we published the book. When we do giveaways, it’s to get people to comment and instigate a response. We have a lot more readers than commentators. We’re trying to engage and not be hard hitting with, “Buy our books.” We know people love our books for a reason and we publish things we really believe in. It’s not just a crass commercial operation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Why keep Chronicle Books in San Francisco?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>McEvoy:\u003c/em> I’ve always thought that one of the advantages is there isn’t that much publishing in San Francisco so you don’t go out and have drinks on the town and run into folks. It’s an interesting world we live in out here. My kids are so into Facebook and I just see a world where we get increasingly digital and fast-paced and non-material. At the same time we have Slow Food and caring about where the chicken went to high school. We are increasingly interested in the physical and sensuous real world as a counterbalance to how much time we spend in our little screens and boxes. We are in fact all mammals and it’s under reported how much we like things.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Nion, what’s your involvement with McEvoy olive oil & what’s the story there? \u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>McEvoy:\u003c/em> My mom used to say, “Sometimes I think in my last incarnation I was a medieval farmer because I love olive oil and bread so much.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mom got the property in Marin and thought it’d be a nice place for my kids. Marin wouldn’t let her do anything unless it was with an agricultural purpose and she thought olives. I introduced her to Maggie Klein's book \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Feast-Olive-Cooking-Olives-Oil/dp/0811805239\">The Feast of the Olive\u003c/a> and then to Italian olive expert Maurizio Caselli. Maurizio looked at it and said “Oh yes, perfect.” Then my mom imported seedlings from different Tuscan varietals and planted her first crop with olive trees. She’s 93 now and does not make all the executive decisions so I get pulled in to help out. Our little marketing dept Christina Cavallaro and Jane Steele--who both worked at Chronicle Books at one time-- thought it’d be good to go into lotions and skin care products for our 80 Acres line. We had to learn that from scratch. Then a few years ago we released our 1st scent/flavor called verde. Then after that, we did lavender and blood orange. Those have been dramatically successful and now sell in Harrod’s. The relation between olive oil and Chronicle Books is that both companies share a love for high quality and the beautiful and sensuously pleasing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Nion, what are your favorite Bay Area spots for food & drink? \u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>McEvoy:\u003c/em> \u003ca href=\"http://www.331fish.com/food/index.html\">Fish\u003c/a> in Sausalito for the Vietnamese salmon banh mi and \u003ca href=\"http://outthedoors.com/\">Out the Door\u003c/a> for chicken pho. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Nion, what is your guiltiest food pleasure?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>McEvoy:\u003c/em> Caramel and sea salt ice cream from \u003ca href=\"http://www.wholefoodsmarket.com/\">Whole Foods\u003c/a>. I’m not that susceptible to junk food but I am susceptible to food.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>Chronicle Books is having a \u003cstrong>Back To School Warehouse Sale\u003c/strong>, where you can save 65% on select titles. Peter Perez recommends arriving early for the best deals and selection.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>WHERE:\u003c/strong> Chronicle Books Corporate Headquarters ONLY\u003cbr>\n680 Second Street\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94107\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "Celebrating Julia Child's 100th Birthday: Jacques Pépin Tribute Video + How Julia Met Jacques",
"title": "Celebrating Julia Child's 100th Birthday: Jacques Pépin Tribute Video + How Julia Met Jacques",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cem>Jacques Pépin's centennial celebration tribute video to Julia Child. Produced by Mike Klozar.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She was the Paris-loving home cook from California who made French cuisine accessible to generations of supermarket shoppers. Apprenticed to restaurant work at 13, once the private chef to Charles de Gaulle, he was the French-born, classically trained chef who made America his home. Their friendship stretched through decades, through hundreds of meals and over many bottles of wine. But how did culinary icons \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/food/juliachild/\">Julia Child\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/food/jacquespepin/\">Jacques Pépin\u003c/a> first meet? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/08/julia-jacques.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/08/julia-jacques.jpg\" alt=\"Julia Child and Jacques Pepin. Photo courtesy of Jacques Pepin\" title=\"Julia Child and Jacques Pepin. Photo courtesy of Jacques Pepin\" width=\"300\" height=\"417\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-47602\">\u003c/a>In 1960, Jacques Pépin had been living in the States for just a few months, working for Henri Soulé at Le Pavillon, where Manhattan's crème de la crème swapped society gossip over \u003cem>quenelles de brochet.\u003c/em> It was a quick way to learn the who's who of New York's many overlapping power circles, including the media. Through \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2012/05/09/dining/craig-claiborne-a-force-in-the-food-revolution.html\">Craig Claiborne\u003c/a>, the influential food editor of the New York Times, Pepin become friends with Helen McCully, the editor of the then-popular magazines McCall's and House Beautiful. When she snagged an advance review copy of Child's \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0375413405/kqedorg-20\">Mastering the Art of French Cooking\u003c/a>, she took it straight to Pépin. As Pépin recalled in \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2012/08/15/dining/jacques-pepin-recalls-friendship-with-julia-child.html?_r=1&ref=dining\">Memories of a Friend, Sidekick, and Foil,\u003c/a> McCully told him that the author was from California, and was \"a very tall woman with a really terrible voice.\" She invited Child over, Pépin cooked, they talked food and France and a lifelong professional partnership was born, thanks to their dedication to classic French cooking and their mutual respect and fondness for each other's home countries. (Pépin left Le Pavillon not long after, lured away by his colleague Pierre Franey, who had been Le Pavillon's executive chef, to work in culinary development for the Howard Johnson's motel and restaurant chain.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When their schedules allowed, they taught classes together at Boston University, where Pépin was teaching, or did tag-team cooking demonstrations. Child, a public-television star since the early 60s, took their friendship onto the screen, pairing with him for \u003ca href=\"http://www.pbs.org/food/shows/julia-child-cooking-in-concert-series/\">Cooking in Concert\u003c/a>, two he-says, she-says specials that were filmed at Boston University and aired on PBS. He was precise, with warp-speed knife skills; she supplied the gently teasing banter and grand dame presence. Here, Julia and Jacques melt, whisk, and bake their way through an extravagant amount of butter as they prepare a lavish meal for formal entertaining: rolled flounder fillets with beurre blanc, standing rib roast of beef, asparagus, mashed potatoes, and strawberry tarts. \u003cbr clear=\"all\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ciframe width=\"640\" height=\"448\" src=\"http://player.pbs.org/viralplayer/2257769718/\" frameborder=\"0\" marginwidth=\"0\" marginheight=\"0\" scrolling=\"no\" seamless allowfullscreen>\u003c/iframe>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Their rapport and the information-packed usefulness of their decades of mutual experience led to Pépin making \u003ca href=\"http://video.pbs.org/video/2256986760/\">lobster souffle\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://video.pbs.org/video/2256997672/\">braised sweetbreads in puff pastry with black truffle Madeira sauce\u003c/a> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.pbs.org/food/shows/julia-child-cooking-with-master-chefs/\">Julia Child: Cooking with Master Chefs\u003c/a> and then to the popular series \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/tv/programs/index.jsp?pgmid=8623\">Julia and Jacques Cooking at Home.\u003c/a> Filmed in Child's \u003ca href=\"http://www.pbs.org/food/features/smithsonian-julia-child-kitchen/\">kitchen\u003c/a> in Cambridge, which had been revamped to accommodate the demands of cooking on camera, the show ran for 22 episodes and won both an Emmy and a James Beard Foundation Award. \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0375404317/kqedorg-20\">Julia and Jacques Cooking at Home\u003c/a>, a cookbook of recipes extrapolated from the shows, followed in 1999. As Pépin admitted, Child loosened him up; for what other cook would he have gone in front of the camera in a toga to introduce Caesar Salad? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Want to see your favorite episodes again? In honor of Julia's centennial, KQED is rebroadcasting a selection of episodes of \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/tv/programs/index.jsp?pgmid=8623\">Julia and Jacques Cooking at Home\u003c/a> throughout August. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here is a fun Interactive game from KQED's Julia Child tribute page:\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/food/juliachild/juliachildgame.jsp\">\u003cstrong>Julia Child Interactive Game: Help Julia and Jacques make a Caesar Salad!\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Caesar Salad, Julia's Way\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nJulia is probably one of the few people around who saw the real Caesar Cardini making his salad. Her parents took her to his restaurant in Tijuana when she was just nine years old. She says, \"You don't want herbs and anchovies and things like that in it, those would adulterate it.\" Jacques, on the other hand, loves anchovies in his Caesar salad.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n18 to 24 crisp, narrow leaves from the hearts of 2 heads of romaine lettuce, or a package of romaine hearts (about 1 pound)\u003cbr>\n1 cup plain toasted croutons (see recipe below)\u003cbr>\n1 large clove garlic, peeled\u003cbr>\n1/4 cup or more excellent olive oil\u003cbr>\nSalt\u003cbr>\n1 large very fresh egg\u003cbr>\nFreshly ground black pepper\u003cbr>\n1 whole lemon, halved and seeded\u003cbr>\nWorcestershire sauce\u003cbr>\n2 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan cheese, imported Parmagiano Reggiano only\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. From a large head of romaine lettuce, remove the outside leaves until you get down to the cone where the leaves are 4 to 7 inches in length -- you'll want 6 to 8 of these leaves per serving. Separate the leaves and wash them carefully to keep them whole, roll them loosely in clean towels, and keep refrigerated until serving time. (Save the remains for other salads; fortunately, romaine keeps reasonably well under refrigeration.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. To flavor the croutons, crush the garlic clove with the flat of a chef's knife, sprinkle on 1/4 teaspoon of salt, and mince well. Pour about a tablespoon of olive oil on the garlic, and mash again with the knife, rubbing and pressing to make a soft puree.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Scrape the puree into the frying pan, add another tablespoon of oil, and warm over low-medium heat. Add the croutons and toss for a minute or two to infuse them with the garlic oil, then remove from the heat. (For a milder garlic flavor, you can strain the puree through a small sieve into a pan before adding the extra oil and croutons. Discard the bits of garlic.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. To coddle the egg, bring a small saucepan of water to the simmer. Pierce the large end of the egg with a pushpin to prevent cracking, then simmer it for exactly 1 minute. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5. Dress the salad just before serving. Have ready all the dressing ingredients and a salad fork and spoon for tossing. Drizzle 2 tablespoons of olive oil over the romaine leaves and toss to coat, lifting the leaves from the bottom and turning them toward you, so they tumble over like a wave. Sprinkle with a generous pinch of salt and several grinds of pepper, toss once or twice, then add the lemon juice and several drops of Worcestershire, and toss again. Taste for seasoning and add more if needed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6. Crack the egg and drop it right on the romaine leaves, then toss to break it up and coat the leaves. Sprinkle on the cheese, toss briefly, then add the croutons (and the garlicky bits in the pan, if you wish) and toss for the last time, just to mix them into the salad.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>7. Arrange 6 or more leaves in a single layer on individual plates, scatter the croutons all around, and serve.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Homemade Croutons\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nThese croutons are essential for our Caesar salad and a fine addition to a basic green salad as well as soups. You can brush the cubes with melted butter before toasting, if you like, or flavor them after with garlic oil, as in the Caesar recipe. It's easy to make a large batch and freeze any croutons you are not using the same day. Reheat frozen croutons in a low oven until crisp.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 or 5 thick slices of French or Italian bread, crusts removed\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Slice bread into 1/2 inch strips, and then the strips into 1/2 inch cubes, to make 4 cups. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Spread the cubes in a single layer on a cookie sheet and set in the oven for about 10 minutes, turning once or twice, until lightly toasted on all sides. Spread the cubes on a tray to cool before using or freezing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Julia Child features at KQED Food:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/food/juliachild/\">Julia Child tribute page\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/food/juliachild/juliachildgame.jsp\">Interactive Game: Help Julia and Jacques make a Caesar Salad!\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/08/09/celebrating-julia-childs-centennial-how-the-french-chef-became-tvs-first-hit-cooking-show/\">Celebrating Julia Child's Centennial: How “The French Chef” Became TV’s First Hit Cooking Show\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Jacques Pépin tribute to Julia Child at The New York Times:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2012/08/15/dining/jacques-pepin-recalls-friendship-with-julia-child.html\">Memories of a Friend, Sidekick and Foil\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cem>Jacques Pépin's centennial celebration tribute video to Julia Child. Produced by Mike Klozar.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She was the Paris-loving home cook from California who made French cuisine accessible to generations of supermarket shoppers. Apprenticed to restaurant work at 13, once the private chef to Charles de Gaulle, he was the French-born, classically trained chef who made America his home. Their friendship stretched through decades, through hundreds of meals and over many bottles of wine. But how did culinary icons \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/food/juliachild/\">Julia Child\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/food/jacquespepin/\">Jacques Pépin\u003c/a> first meet? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/08/julia-jacques.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/08/julia-jacques.jpg\" alt=\"Julia Child and Jacques Pepin. Photo courtesy of Jacques Pepin\" title=\"Julia Child and Jacques Pepin. Photo courtesy of Jacques Pepin\" width=\"300\" height=\"417\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-47602\">\u003c/a>In 1960, Jacques Pépin had been living in the States for just a few months, working for Henri Soulé at Le Pavillon, where Manhattan's crème de la crème swapped society gossip over \u003cem>quenelles de brochet.\u003c/em> It was a quick way to learn the who's who of New York's many overlapping power circles, including the media. Through \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2012/05/09/dining/craig-claiborne-a-force-in-the-food-revolution.html\">Craig Claiborne\u003c/a>, the influential food editor of the New York Times, Pepin become friends with Helen McCully, the editor of the then-popular magazines McCall's and House Beautiful. When she snagged an advance review copy of Child's \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0375413405/kqedorg-20\">Mastering the Art of French Cooking\u003c/a>, she took it straight to Pépin. As Pépin recalled in \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2012/08/15/dining/jacques-pepin-recalls-friendship-with-julia-child.html?_r=1&ref=dining\">Memories of a Friend, Sidekick, and Foil,\u003c/a> McCully told him that the author was from California, and was \"a very tall woman with a really terrible voice.\" She invited Child over, Pépin cooked, they talked food and France and a lifelong professional partnership was born, thanks to their dedication to classic French cooking and their mutual respect and fondness for each other's home countries. (Pépin left Le Pavillon not long after, lured away by his colleague Pierre Franey, who had been Le Pavillon's executive chef, to work in culinary development for the Howard Johnson's motel and restaurant chain.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When their schedules allowed, they taught classes together at Boston University, where Pépin was teaching, or did tag-team cooking demonstrations. Child, a public-television star since the early 60s, took their friendship onto the screen, pairing with him for \u003ca href=\"http://www.pbs.org/food/shows/julia-child-cooking-in-concert-series/\">Cooking in Concert\u003c/a>, two he-says, she-says specials that were filmed at Boston University and aired on PBS. He was precise, with warp-speed knife skills; she supplied the gently teasing banter and grand dame presence. Here, Julia and Jacques melt, whisk, and bake their way through an extravagant amount of butter as they prepare a lavish meal for formal entertaining: rolled flounder fillets with beurre blanc, standing rib roast of beef, asparagus, mashed potatoes, and strawberry tarts. \u003cbr clear=\"all\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ciframe width=\"640\" height=\"448\" src=\"http://player.pbs.org/viralplayer/2257769718/\" frameborder=\"0\" marginwidth=\"0\" marginheight=\"0\" scrolling=\"no\" seamless allowfullscreen>\u003c/iframe>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Their rapport and the information-packed usefulness of their decades of mutual experience led to Pépin making \u003ca href=\"http://video.pbs.org/video/2256986760/\">lobster souffle\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://video.pbs.org/video/2256997672/\">braised sweetbreads in puff pastry with black truffle Madeira sauce\u003c/a> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.pbs.org/food/shows/julia-child-cooking-with-master-chefs/\">Julia Child: Cooking with Master Chefs\u003c/a> and then to the popular series \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/tv/programs/index.jsp?pgmid=8623\">Julia and Jacques Cooking at Home.\u003c/a> Filmed in Child's \u003ca href=\"http://www.pbs.org/food/features/smithsonian-julia-child-kitchen/\">kitchen\u003c/a> in Cambridge, which had been revamped to accommodate the demands of cooking on camera, the show ran for 22 episodes and won both an Emmy and a James Beard Foundation Award. \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0375404317/kqedorg-20\">Julia and Jacques Cooking at Home\u003c/a>, a cookbook of recipes extrapolated from the shows, followed in 1999. As Pépin admitted, Child loosened him up; for what other cook would he have gone in front of the camera in a toga to introduce Caesar Salad? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Want to see your favorite episodes again? In honor of Julia's centennial, KQED is rebroadcasting a selection of episodes of \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/tv/programs/index.jsp?pgmid=8623\">Julia and Jacques Cooking at Home\u003c/a> throughout August. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here is a fun Interactive game from KQED's Julia Child tribute page:\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/food/juliachild/juliachildgame.jsp\">\u003cstrong>Julia Child Interactive Game: Help Julia and Jacques make a Caesar Salad!\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Caesar Salad, Julia's Way\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nJulia is probably one of the few people around who saw the real Caesar Cardini making his salad. Her parents took her to his restaurant in Tijuana when she was just nine years old. She says, \"You don't want herbs and anchovies and things like that in it, those would adulterate it.\" Jacques, on the other hand, loves anchovies in his Caesar salad.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n18 to 24 crisp, narrow leaves from the hearts of 2 heads of romaine lettuce, or a package of romaine hearts (about 1 pound)\u003cbr>\n1 cup plain toasted croutons (see recipe below)\u003cbr>\n1 large clove garlic, peeled\u003cbr>\n1/4 cup or more excellent olive oil\u003cbr>\nSalt\u003cbr>\n1 large very fresh egg\u003cbr>\nFreshly ground black pepper\u003cbr>\n1 whole lemon, halved and seeded\u003cbr>\nWorcestershire sauce\u003cbr>\n2 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan cheese, imported Parmagiano Reggiano only\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. From a large head of romaine lettuce, remove the outside leaves until you get down to the cone where the leaves are 4 to 7 inches in length -- you'll want 6 to 8 of these leaves per serving. Separate the leaves and wash them carefully to keep them whole, roll them loosely in clean towels, and keep refrigerated until serving time. (Save the remains for other salads; fortunately, romaine keeps reasonably well under refrigeration.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. To flavor the croutons, crush the garlic clove with the flat of a chef's knife, sprinkle on 1/4 teaspoon of salt, and mince well. Pour about a tablespoon of olive oil on the garlic, and mash again with the knife, rubbing and pressing to make a soft puree.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Scrape the puree into the frying pan, add another tablespoon of oil, and warm over low-medium heat. Add the croutons and toss for a minute or two to infuse them with the garlic oil, then remove from the heat. (For a milder garlic flavor, you can strain the puree through a small sieve into a pan before adding the extra oil and croutons. Discard the bits of garlic.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. To coddle the egg, bring a small saucepan of water to the simmer. Pierce the large end of the egg with a pushpin to prevent cracking, then simmer it for exactly 1 minute. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5. Dress the salad just before serving. Have ready all the dressing ingredients and a salad fork and spoon for tossing. Drizzle 2 tablespoons of olive oil over the romaine leaves and toss to coat, lifting the leaves from the bottom and turning them toward you, so they tumble over like a wave. Sprinkle with a generous pinch of salt and several grinds of pepper, toss once or twice, then add the lemon juice and several drops of Worcestershire, and toss again. Taste for seasoning and add more if needed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6. Crack the egg and drop it right on the romaine leaves, then toss to break it up and coat the leaves. Sprinkle on the cheese, toss briefly, then add the croutons (and the garlicky bits in the pan, if you wish) and toss for the last time, just to mix them into the salad.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>7. Arrange 6 or more leaves in a single layer on individual plates, scatter the croutons all around, and serve.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Homemade Croutons\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nThese croutons are essential for our Caesar salad and a fine addition to a basic green salad as well as soups. You can brush the cubes with melted butter before toasting, if you like, or flavor them after with garlic oil, as in the Caesar recipe. It's easy to make a large batch and freeze any croutons you are not using the same day. Reheat frozen croutons in a low oven until crisp.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 or 5 thick slices of French or Italian bread, crusts removed\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Slice bread into 1/2 inch strips, and then the strips into 1/2 inch cubes, to make 4 cups. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Spread the cubes in a single layer on a cookie sheet and set in the oven for about 10 minutes, turning once or twice, until lightly toasted on all sides. Spread the cubes on a tray to cool before using or freezing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Julia Child features at KQED Food:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/food/juliachild/\">Julia Child tribute page\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/food/juliachild/juliachildgame.jsp\">Interactive Game: Help Julia and Jacques make a Caesar Salad!\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/08/09/celebrating-julia-childs-centennial-how-the-french-chef-became-tvs-first-hit-cooking-show/\">Celebrating Julia Child's Centennial: How “The French Chef” Became TV’s First Hit Cooking Show\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Jacques Pépin tribute to Julia Child at The New York Times:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2012/08/15/dining/jacques-pepin-recalls-friendship-with-julia-child.html\">Memories of a Friend, Sidekick and Foil\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Celebrating Julia Child's Centennial: How \"The French Chef\" Became TV's First Hit Cooking Show",
"title": "Celebrating Julia Child's Centennial: How \"The French Chef\" Became TV's First Hit Cooking Show",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/08/french-chef-onionsoup.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/08/french-chef-onionsoup.jpg\" alt=\"Julia Child on The French Chef making French Onion Soup\" title=\"Julia Child on The French Chef making French Onion Soup\" width=\"560\" height=\"439\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-46918\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Julia Child on The French Chef making French Onion Soup\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Julia Child would have been 100 years old this month. In her honor, \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/food/juliachild/\">KQED\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.pbs.org/food/julia-child-100-birthday/\">PBS\u003c/a> will be celebrating her centennial in the weeks leading up to her birthday on August 15. Thinking about Child's many contributions to the way we eat, talk, and think about food, it's instructive to go back to see how her original television show, \u003ca href=\"http://www.pbs.org/food/shows/the-french-chef/\">The French Chef\u003c/a>, became a hit. In its cookbook tie-in, \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/037571006X/kqedorg-20\">The French Chef Cookbook\u003c/a>, Child explains the unexpected way that her \u003ca href=\"http://www.juliachildfoundation.org/timeline.html\">fifty-year career\u003c/a> in television got its start. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All it took were twenty-seven letters sent to the studios of Boston's public television station, \u003ca href=\"http://www.wgbh.org/topics/Julia-Child-100-371\">WGBH-TV\u003c/a>. At the time \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0375413405/kqedorg-20\"> Mastering the Art of French Cooking\u003c/a> was published, a Parisian friend of the Childs, Beatrice Braude, was working at the station. Braude suggested promoting the book with an appearance by Julia on one of the station's book-review programs. Julia agreed, and hoping to \"liven things up a little,\" arrived for her interview bearing a dozen eggs and an eye-catchingly huge copper bowl. During the talk, Child pulled out a whisk, grabbed her enormous bowl, and showed how the right flick of the wrist could turn a few egg whites into a mountain of billowing froth. Much to everyone's surprise, more than two dozen viewers wrote in, asking for more from the French chef with the flutey voice and American attitude. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/08/french-chef-tart.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/08/french-chef-tart.jpg\" alt=\"Julia Child on The French Chef making French Tarts, Apple Style\" title=\"Julia Child on The French Chef making French Tarts, Apple Style\" width=\"560\" height=\"435\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-46917\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Julia Child on The French Chef making French Tarts, Apple Style\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This was the early 1960s. French chef \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/restaurants/article/Rene-Verdon-French-chef-for-JFK-White-House-dies-2477797.php\">Rene Verdon\u003c/a> was cooking in the White House. First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy spoke French to European heads of state while wearing Chanel and Givenchy. Jet travel was booming; suddenly, for those who could afford it, a trip to Europe meant a few hours on a plane, not a week on a ship. In the right place at the right time came Julia, an indomitable, sunny-faced Californian able to translate the elegant mysteries of French cuisine for television-watching, supermarket-shopping Americans. WGBH asked Julia if she'd like to try making three pilot shows, each thirty minutes, demonstrating the French way of cooking. Julia agreed, only to find out that the station's studio had burned to the ground a few months before. They found makeshift accomodation in a display kitchen at the Boston Gas Company. Equipment was loaded into the Childs' station wagon, unloaded in the gas company's lobby, and with barely a rehearsal, the first show was taped. As Child wrote,\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>It was out of the question for us to film a live show since we had only two cameras attached by long cables to a mobile bus. Besides, with an absolutely amateur performer, it would have been far too risky. We decided, however, that it would be taped as though it were live. Unless the sky fell in, the camera failed or the lights went off, there would be no stops, and no corrections--just a straight thirty minutes from start to finish. This was a good fundamental decision, I think. I hate to stop. . . Besides, I would far prefer to have things happen as they naturally do, such as the mousse refusing to leave the mold, the potatoes sticking to the skillet, the apple charlotte slowly collapsing. One the secrets of cooking is to learn to correct something if you can, and bear with it if you cannot.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Watching that first show, which aired on July 26, 1962, Child wrote,\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>There was this woman tossing French omelettes, splashing eggs about the place, brandishing big knives, panting heavily as she careened around the stove, and WGBH-TV lurched into educational TV's first cooking program.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Because the genre was so new, the station gave Child free rein to develop the show her own way, without focus groups or media training.The show found a semi-permanent home in the Cambridge Electric Company's display kitchen, located in a spacious loft that, conveniently, had three entrances: a front stairway, a freight elevator, and a fire escape descending into the parking lot. \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>Nobody at WGBH had the slightest idea what we were cooking in our loft until the cameras were lugged up the outside fire escape at 10 o'clock on Wednesdays and Fridays to beging the tapings. . . [Assistant Producer] Ruth Lockwood and I had complete freedom to work up anything we wished and to present it in any manner we chose.\" \u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Since this was educational television, however, Child wanted \"to demonstrate that [French cooking] is not merely good cooking, but that it follows definite rules...I, myself, will not do anything unless I know why.\" She didn't just sauté and flambé, she explained the whys and hows for whipping egg whites, perfecting emulsions like mayonnaise or hollandaise sauce, or clarifying a stock, all as a means of \"taking the bugaboo out of French cooking.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The first 13 shows that Child shot are no longer available; at the time, \"The French Chef\" was limited only to local viewers watching WGBH on Channel 2 in New England. By the time other public television stations started requesting the show, the original tapes were worn out. Child didn't regret their loss; instead, she revisited almost all of the same recipes later in the series, when she was more comfortable in front of the camera. Here you can see Child slicing onions like mad for \u003cem>Your Own French Onion Soup,\u003c/em> one of the earliest shows.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://youtu.be/dw0Ij1Fxgq4\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Shot in black and white, with pots and pans supplied from the Childs' own kitchen, the show is remarkably lacking in nearly everything we've come to expect in the cooking shows that now run back-to-back for hours on TV. There's no flash, no fast cutting, no sexing up the tomatoes. Hot sauce is nowhere to found. Nothing is barbecued or piled on top of a doughnut. Behind the scenes, instead of a squadron of interns chopping and washing in an unseen prep kitchen, there was Julia's husband Paul, dishwasher, equipment-hauler, and general factotum. She talked off the cuff, and was more than willing to crack herself up being downright goofy, as this fabulously wacky clip (shot after the show had moved into color) about roast chicken proves. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>http://www.youtube.com/embed/h8prY-yHYoE\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And yet, viewers tuned in, week after week, and learned to make buttery pastry crusts, \u003ca href=\"http://www.wgbh.org/articles/The-French-Chef-Coq-au-Vin-6970\">coq au vin\u003c/a>, bouillabaisse, even \"hamburgers à la française\" dolled up with red-wine and bone-marrow sauce bordelaise. As she says in \u003cem>French Tarts, Apple Style\u003c/em>, \"It's not too difficult to do if you've seen it done.\" That was what made her popular: she believed that anyone, anywhere, could learn to cook delicious French food. All you needed to do was pay attention and practice, just as she had. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://youtu.be/DH3IoEEvzlw\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Happy birthday, Julia Child. Let's warm up these foggy August nights with a bubbling-hot bowl of her classic, cheese-topped onion soup. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Soupe à l'Oignon Gratinée (Onion Soup Gratinéed with Cheese)\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nIntroducing this recipe in \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/037571006X/kqedorg-20\">The French Chef Cookbook\u003c/a>, Child writes, \"Soupe à l'oignon, a large bowl of it bubbling under a brown crust of cheese, is practically a meal in itself. Serve it after a football game, at a Sunday night supper, or as a midnight snack. Its rich aroma, wonderful flavor and savor, have made French onion soup a word favorite.\" Given that this was the early 60s, she also suggested that by adding wine, a bay leaf, and a pinch of thyme, readers could give a little French flair even to canned or dehydrated onion soup. And while encouraging readers to start with a homemade beef bouillon--\"beef bones and shank meat simmered for several hours with the usual carrots, onions, celery, seasonings, and herbs\"--she also acknowledged that canned bouillon could be used instead, \"if your own bouillon is lacking.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Adapted from The French Chef Cookbook by Julia Child.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n3 tablespoons butter\u003cbr>\n1 tablespoon olive oil\u003cbr>\n5-6 cups thinly sliced yellow onions (1 1/2 lbs)\u003cbr>\n1 teaspoon salt\u003cbr>\n1/2 teaspoon sugar\u003cbr>\n3 tablespoons flour\u003cbr>\n2 quarts hot beef bouillon (if using canned bouillon, dilute with 2 cups of water)\u003cbr>\n1 cup red or white wine\u003cbr>\n1 bay leaf\u003cbr>\n1/2 teaspoon sage\u003cbr>\nSalt and pepper to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For Croûtes and Cheese Topping:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1 sweet baguette\u003cbr>\nOlive oil or melted butter\u003cbr>\n1/4 cup cognac, optional\u003cbr>\n1 small (2-inch) onion or shallot, peeled\u003cbr>\nA 2-ounce piece Swiss cheese\u003cbr>\n1 1/2 cups grated Swiss and Parmesan cheese, mixed\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cstrong>Preparation\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>Melt the butter and oil in a large, deep saucepan; add the onions and stir to coat with the butter. Cover the pan and cook over moderately low heat for 15-20 minutes, stirring occasionally, until onions are tender and translucent.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Uncover the pan, raise heat to medium high, and stir in the salt and sugar. (Sugar, by caramelizing, helps onions to brown.) Cook for about 30 minutes, stirring frequently, until onions have turned an even deep golden brown.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Lower heat to medium, stir in flour, and add a bit more butter if flour does not absorb into a paste with the onions. Cook, stirring continually, for about 2 minutes to brown flour lightly.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>In a separate pot, heat bouillon. Pour about a cup of hot bouillon into onion mixture, whisking to combine. Add the rest of the bouillon and the wine, bay and sage, and bring to a simmer. Simmer slowly for 30-40 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>While soup is simmering, make the croûtes. Preheat oven to 325°F. Cut bread into slices 1 inch thick, paint lightly with oil or butter and arrange in one layer on a baking sheet. Bake in the oven for 15-20 minutes, until beginning to brown lightly; turn slices and brown lightly for 15-20 minutes on the other side. Remove croûtes from oven. Turn oven up to 350°F.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Add the optional cognac and grate in the onion. Pour the hot soup into a serving casserole, baking dish, or into individual oven-proof bowls. Shave the 2-ounce piece of cheese into fine slivers and strew over the soup.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Place a closely packed layer of croûtes over the top of the soup and spread on the grated cheese, covering the croûtes completely. (If using individual bowls, top each bowl with one or two croutes as needed to cover the top of soup. Divide the cheese between the bowls.) Sprinkle a tablespoon of oil or butter over the cheese, and set soup on the middle rack of the oven. (If using individual bowls, place bowls on a baking sheet.) Bake for about 30 minutes, until soup is bubbling slowly and cheese has melted.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Meanwhile, preheat your broiler. Just before serving, run the soup under the broiler for a moment to brown the cheese lightly. Pass the remaining croûtes in a bread tray along with the soup.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For more Julia Child recipes, videos, audio interviews, books and resources check out \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/food/juliachild/\">KQED's Julia Child portal\u003c/a> in KQED Food.\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "How did Julia Child get her start as one of television's most iconic chefs? In honor of Child's upcoming centennial, we've got two classic black-and-white shows from her original series, The French Chef, plus her recipe for bubbling, cheese-topped French onion soup. ",
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"description": "How did Julia Child get her start as one of television's most iconic chefs? In honor of Child's upcoming centennial, we've got two classic black-and-white shows from her original series, The French Chef, plus her recipe for bubbling, cheese-topped French onion soup. ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/08/french-chef-onionsoup.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/08/french-chef-onionsoup.jpg\" alt=\"Julia Child on The French Chef making French Onion Soup\" title=\"Julia Child on The French Chef making French Onion Soup\" width=\"560\" height=\"439\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-46918\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Julia Child on The French Chef making French Onion Soup\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Julia Child would have been 100 years old this month. In her honor, \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/food/juliachild/\">KQED\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.pbs.org/food/julia-child-100-birthday/\">PBS\u003c/a> will be celebrating her centennial in the weeks leading up to her birthday on August 15. Thinking about Child's many contributions to the way we eat, talk, and think about food, it's instructive to go back to see how her original television show, \u003ca href=\"http://www.pbs.org/food/shows/the-french-chef/\">The French Chef\u003c/a>, became a hit. In its cookbook tie-in, \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/037571006X/kqedorg-20\">The French Chef Cookbook\u003c/a>, Child explains the unexpected way that her \u003ca href=\"http://www.juliachildfoundation.org/timeline.html\">fifty-year career\u003c/a> in television got its start. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All it took were twenty-seven letters sent to the studios of Boston's public television station, \u003ca href=\"http://www.wgbh.org/topics/Julia-Child-100-371\">WGBH-TV\u003c/a>. At the time \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0375413405/kqedorg-20\"> Mastering the Art of French Cooking\u003c/a> was published, a Parisian friend of the Childs, Beatrice Braude, was working at the station. Braude suggested promoting the book with an appearance by Julia on one of the station's book-review programs. Julia agreed, and hoping to \"liven things up a little,\" arrived for her interview bearing a dozen eggs and an eye-catchingly huge copper bowl. During the talk, Child pulled out a whisk, grabbed her enormous bowl, and showed how the right flick of the wrist could turn a few egg whites into a mountain of billowing froth. Much to everyone's surprise, more than two dozen viewers wrote in, asking for more from the French chef with the flutey voice and American attitude. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/08/french-chef-tart.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/08/french-chef-tart.jpg\" alt=\"Julia Child on The French Chef making French Tarts, Apple Style\" title=\"Julia Child on The French Chef making French Tarts, Apple Style\" width=\"560\" height=\"435\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-46917\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Julia Child on The French Chef making French Tarts, Apple Style\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This was the early 1960s. French chef \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/restaurants/article/Rene-Verdon-French-chef-for-JFK-White-House-dies-2477797.php\">Rene Verdon\u003c/a> was cooking in the White House. First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy spoke French to European heads of state while wearing Chanel and Givenchy. Jet travel was booming; suddenly, for those who could afford it, a trip to Europe meant a few hours on a plane, not a week on a ship. In the right place at the right time came Julia, an indomitable, sunny-faced Californian able to translate the elegant mysteries of French cuisine for television-watching, supermarket-shopping Americans. WGBH asked Julia if she'd like to try making three pilot shows, each thirty minutes, demonstrating the French way of cooking. Julia agreed, only to find out that the station's studio had burned to the ground a few months before. They found makeshift accomodation in a display kitchen at the Boston Gas Company. Equipment was loaded into the Childs' station wagon, unloaded in the gas company's lobby, and with barely a rehearsal, the first show was taped. As Child wrote,\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>It was out of the question for us to film a live show since we had only two cameras attached by long cables to a mobile bus. Besides, with an absolutely amateur performer, it would have been far too risky. We decided, however, that it would be taped as though it were live. Unless the sky fell in, the camera failed or the lights went off, there would be no stops, and no corrections--just a straight thirty minutes from start to finish. This was a good fundamental decision, I think. I hate to stop. . . Besides, I would far prefer to have things happen as they naturally do, such as the mousse refusing to leave the mold, the potatoes sticking to the skillet, the apple charlotte slowly collapsing. One the secrets of cooking is to learn to correct something if you can, and bear with it if you cannot.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Watching that first show, which aired on July 26, 1962, Child wrote,\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>There was this woman tossing French omelettes, splashing eggs about the place, brandishing big knives, panting heavily as she careened around the stove, and WGBH-TV lurched into educational TV's first cooking program.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Because the genre was so new, the station gave Child free rein to develop the show her own way, without focus groups or media training.The show found a semi-permanent home in the Cambridge Electric Company's display kitchen, located in a spacious loft that, conveniently, had three entrances: a front stairway, a freight elevator, and a fire escape descending into the parking lot. \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>Nobody at WGBH had the slightest idea what we were cooking in our loft until the cameras were lugged up the outside fire escape at 10 o'clock on Wednesdays and Fridays to beging the tapings. . . [Assistant Producer] Ruth Lockwood and I had complete freedom to work up anything we wished and to present it in any manner we chose.\" \u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Since this was educational television, however, Child wanted \"to demonstrate that [French cooking] is not merely good cooking, but that it follows definite rules...I, myself, will not do anything unless I know why.\" She didn't just sauté and flambé, she explained the whys and hows for whipping egg whites, perfecting emulsions like mayonnaise or hollandaise sauce, or clarifying a stock, all as a means of \"taking the bugaboo out of French cooking.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The first 13 shows that Child shot are no longer available; at the time, \"The French Chef\" was limited only to local viewers watching WGBH on Channel 2 in New England. By the time other public television stations started requesting the show, the original tapes were worn out. Child didn't regret their loss; instead, she revisited almost all of the same recipes later in the series, when she was more comfortable in front of the camera. Here you can see Child slicing onions like mad for \u003cem>Your Own French Onion Soup,\u003c/em> one of the earliest shows.\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/dw0Ij1Fxgq4'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/dw0Ij1Fxgq4'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cp>Shot in black and white, with pots and pans supplied from the Childs' own kitchen, the show is remarkably lacking in nearly everything we've come to expect in the cooking shows that now run back-to-back for hours on TV. There's no flash, no fast cutting, no sexing up the tomatoes. Hot sauce is nowhere to found. Nothing is barbecued or piled on top of a doughnut. Behind the scenes, instead of a squadron of interns chopping and washing in an unseen prep kitchen, there was Julia's husband Paul, dishwasher, equipment-hauler, and general factotum. She talked off the cuff, and was more than willing to crack herself up being downright goofy, as this fabulously wacky clip (shot after the show had moved into color) about roast chicken proves. \u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/h8prY-yHYoE'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/h8prY-yHYoE'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cp>And yet, viewers tuned in, week after week, and learned to make buttery pastry crusts, \u003ca href=\"http://www.wgbh.org/articles/The-French-Chef-Coq-au-Vin-6970\">coq au vin\u003c/a>, bouillabaisse, even \"hamburgers à la française\" dolled up with red-wine and bone-marrow sauce bordelaise. As she says in \u003cem>French Tarts, Apple Style\u003c/em>, \"It's not too difficult to do if you've seen it done.\" That was what made her popular: she believed that anyone, anywhere, could learn to cook delicious French food. All you needed to do was pay attention and practice, just as she had. \u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/DH3IoEEvzlw'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/DH3IoEEvzlw'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cp>Happy birthday, Julia Child. Let's warm up these foggy August nights with a bubbling-hot bowl of her classic, cheese-topped onion soup. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Soupe à l'Oignon Gratinée (Onion Soup Gratinéed with Cheese)\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nIntroducing this recipe in \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/037571006X/kqedorg-20\">The French Chef Cookbook\u003c/a>, Child writes, \"Soupe à l'oignon, a large bowl of it bubbling under a brown crust of cheese, is practically a meal in itself. Serve it after a football game, at a Sunday night supper, or as a midnight snack. Its rich aroma, wonderful flavor and savor, have made French onion soup a word favorite.\" Given that this was the early 60s, she also suggested that by adding wine, a bay leaf, and a pinch of thyme, readers could give a little French flair even to canned or dehydrated onion soup. And while encouraging readers to start with a homemade beef bouillon--\"beef bones and shank meat simmered for several hours with the usual carrots, onions, celery, seasonings, and herbs\"--she also acknowledged that canned bouillon could be used instead, \"if your own bouillon is lacking.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Adapted from The French Chef Cookbook by Julia Child.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n3 tablespoons butter\u003cbr>\n1 tablespoon olive oil\u003cbr>\n5-6 cups thinly sliced yellow onions (1 1/2 lbs)\u003cbr>\n1 teaspoon salt\u003cbr>\n1/2 teaspoon sugar\u003cbr>\n3 tablespoons flour\u003cbr>\n2 quarts hot beef bouillon (if using canned bouillon, dilute with 2 cups of water)\u003cbr>\n1 cup red or white wine\u003cbr>\n1 bay leaf\u003cbr>\n1/2 teaspoon sage\u003cbr>\nSalt and pepper to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For Croûtes and Cheese Topping:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1 sweet baguette\u003cbr>\nOlive oil or melted butter\u003cbr>\n1/4 cup cognac, optional\u003cbr>\n1 small (2-inch) onion or shallot, peeled\u003cbr>\nA 2-ounce piece Swiss cheese\u003cbr>\n1 1/2 cups grated Swiss and Parmesan cheese, mixed\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cstrong>Preparation\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>Melt the butter and oil in a large, deep saucepan; add the onions and stir to coat with the butter. Cover the pan and cook over moderately low heat for 15-20 minutes, stirring occasionally, until onions are tender and translucent.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Uncover the pan, raise heat to medium high, and stir in the salt and sugar. (Sugar, by caramelizing, helps onions to brown.) Cook for about 30 minutes, stirring frequently, until onions have turned an even deep golden brown.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Lower heat to medium, stir in flour, and add a bit more butter if flour does not absorb into a paste with the onions. Cook, stirring continually, for about 2 minutes to brown flour lightly.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>In a separate pot, heat bouillon. Pour about a cup of hot bouillon into onion mixture, whisking to combine. Add the rest of the bouillon and the wine, bay and sage, and bring to a simmer. Simmer slowly for 30-40 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>While soup is simmering, make the croûtes. Preheat oven to 325°F. Cut bread into slices 1 inch thick, paint lightly with oil or butter and arrange in one layer on a baking sheet. Bake in the oven for 15-20 minutes, until beginning to brown lightly; turn slices and brown lightly for 15-20 minutes on the other side. Remove croûtes from oven. Turn oven up to 350°F.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Add the optional cognac and grate in the onion. Pour the hot soup into a serving casserole, baking dish, or into individual oven-proof bowls. Shave the 2-ounce piece of cheese into fine slivers and strew over the soup.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Place a closely packed layer of croûtes over the top of the soup and spread on the grated cheese, covering the croûtes completely. (If using individual bowls, top each bowl with one or two croutes as needed to cover the top of soup. Divide the cheese between the bowls.) Sprinkle a tablespoon of oil or butter over the cheese, and set soup on the middle rack of the oven. (If using individual bowls, place bowls on a baking sheet.) Bake for about 30 minutes, until soup is bubbling slowly and cheese has melted.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Meanwhile, preheat your broiler. Just before serving, run the soup under the broiler for a moment to brown the cheese lightly. Pass the remaining croûtes in a bread tray along with the soup.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For more Julia Child recipes, videos, audio interviews, books and resources check out \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/food/juliachild/\">KQED's Julia Child portal\u003c/a> in KQED Food.\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Q&A with Restaurant Critic Michael Bauer",
"title": "Q&A with Restaurant Critic Michael Bauer",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_46636\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 233px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/08/Michael-Bauer-final1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/08/Michael-Bauer-final1.jpg\" alt=\"Michael Bauer. Photo courtesy of Craig Lee/SF Chronicle\" title=\"Michael Bauer. Photo courtesy of Craig Lee/SF Chronicle\" width=\"233\" height=\"350\" class=\"size-full wp-image-46636\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">\u003cem>Michael Bauer. Photo courtesy of Craig Lee/SF Chronicle\u003c/em>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>San Francisco Chronicle restaurant critic \u003ca href=\"http://insidescoopsf.sfgate.com/blog/section/michael-bauer/\">Michael Bauer\u003c/a> has been writing about food in the Bay Area for 25 years-- a feat worth noting considering the ever morphing state of journalism. He also manages the biggest newspaper \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/food/\">food and wine\u003c/a> staff in the country and his “Tower of Bauer” includes an (often thriving, sometimes experimental) rooftop garden, recipe test kitchen, photo studio, beehives, and a wine cellar with 10,000 bottles. When I was a food department intern in 2002, I saw that Bauer received and ultimately declined scores of invitations to appear at events or, say, be the commencement speaker at the California Culinary Academy graduation ceremony. The organizers of SF Chefs have sweet talked Bauer into appearing behind a screen for what is billed as an \u003ca href=\"http://sfchefsfoodwine.com/events/08/4/inside-scoop-michael-bauer/\">“intimate interview”\u003c/a> with restaurateur \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drew_Nieporent\">Drew Nieporent\u003c/a> tomorrow at the Westin St Francis. As of Friday afternoon, tickets were still available. Bay Area Bites caught up with \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/michaelbauer1\">Bauer\u003c/a> via phone interview and his comments have been edited for clarity and length.\u003cbr clear=\"all\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What’s the state of Bay Area food? What's trendy -- both good and bad?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nAs far as what’s happening here it’s going really strong. Two years ago was the best year in my 25 years here. It slowed down a little bit and now it’s really good. I’m finding interesting things around the bay and in San Francisco.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The biggest trend is the further casualization of décor & service which can be both good & bad. I’m also seeing the implementation of tasting menus: like \u003ca href=\"http://www.commonwealthsf.com/\">Commonwealth\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/01/18/qa-with-saison-chef-joshua-skenes/\">Saison\u003c/a>, where you get this high-style fixed menu in a barn. Then we have \u003ca href=\"http://www.centralkitchensf.com/\">Central Kitchen\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://sfdixie.com/\">Dixie\u003c/a>. Every chef now wants to do a tasting menu. Which is interesting because I thought the tasting menu was dead in the water five years ago. I think they’ve found ways to make it go quicker because diners don't want to be at the table beyond two and a half hours and chefs want to show off their skills. Also, diners like that guidance.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What’s the state of restaurant reviewing after you’ve spent 25 yrs doing it? Is there anything you wish you knew then that you know now?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nNo because when you’re in the middle of it, it’s just an ongoing process. It’s hard to look back. Obviously the biggest change has been the internet. But that’s changed everyone’s lives. It’s too soon to see how things will shake out and what the role of traditional media will be.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>You were close with \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/food/article/Marion-Cunningham-food-champion-to-many-3705925.php\">Marion Cunningham\u003c/a>. Can you share any thoughts on her recent passing?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nIt was a long slow decline for her and it’s very sad that someone that vital ended up in the situation that she was in. It’s weird that if you talk to a young chef, they have no idea who she is. I was talking to \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/01/28/breakfast-at-show-dogs-with-chefs-gayle-pirie-and-john-clark/\">Gayle Pirie\u003c/a> over this and Marion’s not been out of circulation even five years. The world is moving so fast that history is getting lost so quickly. What she has to offer and what Julia Child has to offer is starting to get lost. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Is there a culinary elder now that Marion has passed away?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nShe’s different but \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/08/09/sf-chefs-2011-women-pioneer-chefs/\">Cecilia Chiang\u003c/a> is still very active. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What is it like doing a public Q&A event? Yes, you’ll be behind a screen, but how are you preparing for SF Chefs?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nFrankly I don't even think about it. There’s nothing to be afraid of. I don’t know what Drew will ask. I told him to ask whatever he wants. That's what it's kind of like when you live your life in public. I am hopefully anonymous. I can’t think that anything would surprise me. I think the internet has been a good skin thickener. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>By \"skin thickener\" do you mean comments that people leave on your SF Gate posts?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nYes. I think that generally -- I’m not just talking about where I’m concerned. There seems to be a real lack of civility. I did this dinner with Nancy Pelosi and the comments online were just horrible. And I had a similar experience when I did a dinner with Mourad Lahlou. I think people go on with the worst comments and it doesn't matter who it is. I’m not saying “poor me.” I’m just saying in general it just happens. If I had my way, you’d have to actually sign in to comment on any site, not just our site. It’s okay to be spirited and disagree but you should at least put your name to it. Then at least people have the passion. You may still disagree and you can explain it. These comments come out of left field you don’t know who they are and how to deal with it, and what the background is. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What about comments on sites like Open Table & Yelp?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nIf you look at comments on Yelp, at least three-fourths of the comments, the people weren’t treated well and they let that color their experience about everything else. This is where I think a restaurant critic is someone who does this differently. I’ve had bad experiences in restaurants but I don’t let that affect how I feel about the food. If you do a good job, you separate the different elements as a critic. If I have a really creepy waiter that does not reflect on the tomato salad I have. That’s the discipline that we have that a consumer does not have. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>How has social media changed the landscape of food culture and reviewing?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nI don’t think it’s completely changed what I do and what other critics employed by publications do. It’s probably the same. It’s probably less now about discovery for readers. People used to tune in to find out what’s new. Hopefully you’ve built up respect and people want to read you and see what your opinion is. As we get more information, people will see and want it filtered. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Where do you shop for food and do you cook at home?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nI don’t cook much because I’m out every night. I’m often out on weekends during the day. I do quick lunches that I’ll cook. It could be Whole Foods, Trader Joe’s or Safeway, where I’m picking up food for lunch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What do you do to stay healthy?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nEating in restaurants. That’s the healthiest thing you can do, at least the caliber I eat at. I’ve never understood people going on about the rich food at restaurants. To me it’s all about pacing yourself and moderation. I’ve existed on a restaurant diet for 25 yrs and maintained the same weight the whole time. I may go up or down one or two but if that happens, I watch it. I weigh in every day or every other day and go to the health club Monday through Friday. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>That shows discipline. You’re at work early each day, right?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nI’m usually at the Chronicle by 5:30am every morning. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>How did you and \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/curiousmikie\">Michael Murphy\u003c/a> meet?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nWe met at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.academyoffriends.org/\">Academy of Friends\u003c/a> and have been together for more than 20 years. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Have you experienced homophobia as a writer and critic in the food world? What’s your perspective on the gay community, Chick-Fil-A and politics?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I’m sure when you go with a few men for dinner there may be something that happens…. But not here. It’s not like the Midwest.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I don’t agree with the Chick-Fil-A protest on either side but I think people should make up their mind. It’s fine to make people aware of that but it’s an individual decision on whether or not to patronize them. I guess I’ve never really thought about the gay aspects. You just do your job. So the whole sexuality issue has nothing to do with that. It’s kind of a non-issue. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On the whole thing of discrimination: a lot of people think that they’re discriminated against because (for instance) it’s a table of women and waiters may not like that. I’ve had African American and Asian people write me because they think they’re discriminated against. And people get discriminated against because they don't dress as well. You can’t really know. Just cause you get a lousy seat it may not be discrimination. It could be an ignorant host who just doesn’t know better. I can tell you that more times than not, I usually go out to restaurants very early. At the most popular restaurant, I’m there when it’s half empty or half full. The majority of the time I’m led to the worst table or nearly the worst table. It’s not because I dress bad. I think it's the inexperienced host; and if they have poor tables that they want to get rid of. If you protest, which I don’t... I’ve seen a host try to seat four different people at the same table. It’s “Okay, let’s give that table and see if anyone’s gullible enough to take it.” And people are not speaking up. That bad table should be saved for a walk-in. People would be happy because they walked in and they get it. It shouldn’t be for people who made a reservation two to three weeks ago and they get it. That can be the point of discrimination--but actually it’s really not a point of discrimination it's the lack of knowledge of person seating. It’s one of my pet peeves. Apparently it’s never gonna change. I’ve written about it so much. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>How was Sunday's SF Chefs four-star \u003ca href=\"http://insidescoopsf.sfgate.com/blog/2012/07/27/how-a-charity-dinner-with-nine-4-star-chefs-comes-together/\">dinner\u003c/a> with Thomas Keller, a benefit for the San Francisco-Marin Food Bank? \u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nIt was amazing and mind boggling to have those chefs (Douglas Keane, David Kinch, Christopher Kostow, Corey Lee, Roland Passot, Daniel Patterson, Michael Tusk and Alice Waters) there cooking, and that their wine directors came. It was an amazing collaboration that showed why it’s great to live in the Bay Area. You may not get that in other parts of the country and have all these chefs helping each other out. Every chef has an ego but you’re also willing to help others. Quince did an amazing job and it was flawless. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://sfchefsfoodwine.com/events/08/4/inside-scoop-michael-bauer/\">SF Chefs: The Inside Scoop with Michael Bauer\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nSaturday, August 4th at 3:30 p.m.\u003cbr>\nWestin St Francis Hotel\u003cbr>\n335 Powell Street\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco CA 94102\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.eventbrite.com/event/3428620095/eorg\">Tickets\u003c/a>: $28 to $35\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Mary Ladd talks to Michael Bauer, who has worked for 25 years as a restaurant critic for the San Francisco Chronicle. Bauer dishes on the biggest trends in restaurants and shares one of his biggest pet peeves.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_46636\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 233px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/08/Michael-Bauer-final1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/08/Michael-Bauer-final1.jpg\" alt=\"Michael Bauer. Photo courtesy of Craig Lee/SF Chronicle\" title=\"Michael Bauer. Photo courtesy of Craig Lee/SF Chronicle\" width=\"233\" height=\"350\" class=\"size-full wp-image-46636\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">\u003cem>Michael Bauer. Photo courtesy of Craig Lee/SF Chronicle\u003c/em>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>San Francisco Chronicle restaurant critic \u003ca href=\"http://insidescoopsf.sfgate.com/blog/section/michael-bauer/\">Michael Bauer\u003c/a> has been writing about food in the Bay Area for 25 years-- a feat worth noting considering the ever morphing state of journalism. He also manages the biggest newspaper \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/food/\">food and wine\u003c/a> staff in the country and his “Tower of Bauer” includes an (often thriving, sometimes experimental) rooftop garden, recipe test kitchen, photo studio, beehives, and a wine cellar with 10,000 bottles. When I was a food department intern in 2002, I saw that Bauer received and ultimately declined scores of invitations to appear at events or, say, be the commencement speaker at the California Culinary Academy graduation ceremony. The organizers of SF Chefs have sweet talked Bauer into appearing behind a screen for what is billed as an \u003ca href=\"http://sfchefsfoodwine.com/events/08/4/inside-scoop-michael-bauer/\">“intimate interview”\u003c/a> with restaurateur \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drew_Nieporent\">Drew Nieporent\u003c/a> tomorrow at the Westin St Francis. As of Friday afternoon, tickets were still available. Bay Area Bites caught up with \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/michaelbauer1\">Bauer\u003c/a> via phone interview and his comments have been edited for clarity and length.\u003cbr clear=\"all\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What’s the state of Bay Area food? What's trendy -- both good and bad?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nAs far as what’s happening here it’s going really strong. Two years ago was the best year in my 25 years here. It slowed down a little bit and now it’s really good. I’m finding interesting things around the bay and in San Francisco.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The biggest trend is the further casualization of décor & service which can be both good & bad. I’m also seeing the implementation of tasting menus: like \u003ca href=\"http://www.commonwealthsf.com/\">Commonwealth\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/01/18/qa-with-saison-chef-joshua-skenes/\">Saison\u003c/a>, where you get this high-style fixed menu in a barn. Then we have \u003ca href=\"http://www.centralkitchensf.com/\">Central Kitchen\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://sfdixie.com/\">Dixie\u003c/a>. Every chef now wants to do a tasting menu. Which is interesting because I thought the tasting menu was dead in the water five years ago. I think they’ve found ways to make it go quicker because diners don't want to be at the table beyond two and a half hours and chefs want to show off their skills. Also, diners like that guidance.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What’s the state of restaurant reviewing after you’ve spent 25 yrs doing it? Is there anything you wish you knew then that you know now?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nNo because when you’re in the middle of it, it’s just an ongoing process. It’s hard to look back. Obviously the biggest change has been the internet. But that’s changed everyone’s lives. It’s too soon to see how things will shake out and what the role of traditional media will be.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>You were close with \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/food/article/Marion-Cunningham-food-champion-to-many-3705925.php\">Marion Cunningham\u003c/a>. Can you share any thoughts on her recent passing?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nIt was a long slow decline for her and it’s very sad that someone that vital ended up in the situation that she was in. It’s weird that if you talk to a young chef, they have no idea who she is. I was talking to \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/01/28/breakfast-at-show-dogs-with-chefs-gayle-pirie-and-john-clark/\">Gayle Pirie\u003c/a> over this and Marion’s not been out of circulation even five years. The world is moving so fast that history is getting lost so quickly. What she has to offer and what Julia Child has to offer is starting to get lost. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Is there a culinary elder now that Marion has passed away?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nShe’s different but \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/08/09/sf-chefs-2011-women-pioneer-chefs/\">Cecilia Chiang\u003c/a> is still very active. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What is it like doing a public Q&A event? Yes, you’ll be behind a screen, but how are you preparing for SF Chefs?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nFrankly I don't even think about it. There’s nothing to be afraid of. I don’t know what Drew will ask. I told him to ask whatever he wants. That's what it's kind of like when you live your life in public. I am hopefully anonymous. I can’t think that anything would surprise me. I think the internet has been a good skin thickener. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>By \"skin thickener\" do you mean comments that people leave on your SF Gate posts?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nYes. I think that generally -- I’m not just talking about where I’m concerned. There seems to be a real lack of civility. I did this dinner with Nancy Pelosi and the comments online were just horrible. And I had a similar experience when I did a dinner with Mourad Lahlou. I think people go on with the worst comments and it doesn't matter who it is. I’m not saying “poor me.” I’m just saying in general it just happens. If I had my way, you’d have to actually sign in to comment on any site, not just our site. It’s okay to be spirited and disagree but you should at least put your name to it. Then at least people have the passion. You may still disagree and you can explain it. These comments come out of left field you don’t know who they are and how to deal with it, and what the background is. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What about comments on sites like Open Table & Yelp?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nIf you look at comments on Yelp, at least three-fourths of the comments, the people weren’t treated well and they let that color their experience about everything else. This is where I think a restaurant critic is someone who does this differently. I’ve had bad experiences in restaurants but I don’t let that affect how I feel about the food. If you do a good job, you separate the different elements as a critic. If I have a really creepy waiter that does not reflect on the tomato salad I have. That’s the discipline that we have that a consumer does not have. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>How has social media changed the landscape of food culture and reviewing?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nI don’t think it’s completely changed what I do and what other critics employed by publications do. It’s probably the same. It’s probably less now about discovery for readers. People used to tune in to find out what’s new. Hopefully you’ve built up respect and people want to read you and see what your opinion is. As we get more information, people will see and want it filtered. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Where do you shop for food and do you cook at home?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nI don’t cook much because I’m out every night. I’m often out on weekends during the day. I do quick lunches that I’ll cook. It could be Whole Foods, Trader Joe’s or Safeway, where I’m picking up food for lunch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What do you do to stay healthy?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nEating in restaurants. That’s the healthiest thing you can do, at least the caliber I eat at. I’ve never understood people going on about the rich food at restaurants. To me it’s all about pacing yourself and moderation. I’ve existed on a restaurant diet for 25 yrs and maintained the same weight the whole time. I may go up or down one or two but if that happens, I watch it. I weigh in every day or every other day and go to the health club Monday through Friday. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>That shows discipline. You’re at work early each day, right?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nI’m usually at the Chronicle by 5:30am every morning. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>How did you and \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/curiousmikie\">Michael Murphy\u003c/a> meet?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nWe met at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.academyoffriends.org/\">Academy of Friends\u003c/a> and have been together for more than 20 years. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Have you experienced homophobia as a writer and critic in the food world? What’s your perspective on the gay community, Chick-Fil-A and politics?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I’m sure when you go with a few men for dinner there may be something that happens…. But not here. It’s not like the Midwest.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I don’t agree with the Chick-Fil-A protest on either side but I think people should make up their mind. It’s fine to make people aware of that but it’s an individual decision on whether or not to patronize them. I guess I’ve never really thought about the gay aspects. You just do your job. So the whole sexuality issue has nothing to do with that. It’s kind of a non-issue. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On the whole thing of discrimination: a lot of people think that they’re discriminated against because (for instance) it’s a table of women and waiters may not like that. I’ve had African American and Asian people write me because they think they’re discriminated against. And people get discriminated against because they don't dress as well. You can’t really know. Just cause you get a lousy seat it may not be discrimination. It could be an ignorant host who just doesn’t know better. I can tell you that more times than not, I usually go out to restaurants very early. At the most popular restaurant, I’m there when it’s half empty or half full. The majority of the time I’m led to the worst table or nearly the worst table. It’s not because I dress bad. I think it's the inexperienced host; and if they have poor tables that they want to get rid of. If you protest, which I don’t... I’ve seen a host try to seat four different people at the same table. It’s “Okay, let’s give that table and see if anyone’s gullible enough to take it.” And people are not speaking up. That bad table should be saved for a walk-in. People would be happy because they walked in and they get it. It shouldn’t be for people who made a reservation two to three weeks ago and they get it. That can be the point of discrimination--but actually it’s really not a point of discrimination it's the lack of knowledge of person seating. It’s one of my pet peeves. Apparently it’s never gonna change. I’ve written about it so much. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>How was Sunday's SF Chefs four-star \u003ca href=\"http://insidescoopsf.sfgate.com/blog/2012/07/27/how-a-charity-dinner-with-nine-4-star-chefs-comes-together/\">dinner\u003c/a> with Thomas Keller, a benefit for the San Francisco-Marin Food Bank? \u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nIt was amazing and mind boggling to have those chefs (Douglas Keane, David Kinch, Christopher Kostow, Corey Lee, Roland Passot, Daniel Patterson, Michael Tusk and Alice Waters) there cooking, and that their wine directors came. It was an amazing collaboration that showed why it’s great to live in the Bay Area. You may not get that in other parts of the country and have all these chefs helping each other out. Every chef has an ego but you’re also willing to help others. Quince did an amazing job and it was flawless. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"source": "kqed",
"order": 3
},
"link": "/podcasts/baycurious",
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}
},
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"id": "bbc-world-service",
"title": "BBC World Service",
"info": "The day's top stories from BBC News compiled twice daily in the week, once at weekends.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 9pm-10pm, TUE-FRI 1am-2am",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/BBC-World-Service-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.bbc.co.uk/sounds/play/live:bbc_world_service",
"meta": {
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"source": "BBC World Service"
},
"link": "/radio/program/bbc-world-service",
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/global-news-podcast/id135067274?mt=2",
"tuneIn": "https://tunein.com/radio/BBC-World-Service-p455581/",
"rss": "https://podcasts.files.bbci.co.uk/p02nq0gn.rss"
}
},
"californiareport": {
"id": "californiareport",
"title": "The California Report",
"tagline": "California, day by day",
"info": "KQED’s statewide radio news program providing daily coverage of issues, trends and public policy decisions.",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/The-California-Report-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
"imageAlt": "KQED The California Report",
"officialWebsiteLink": "/californiareport",
"meta": {
"site": "news",
"source": "kqed",
"order": 8
},
"link": "/californiareport",
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"amazon": "https://music.amazon.com/podcasts/26099305-72af-4542-9dde-ac1807fe36d5/kqed-s-the-california-report",
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}
},
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"id": "californiareportmagazine",
"title": "The California Report Magazine",
"tagline": "Your state, your stories",
"info": "Every week, The California Report Magazine takes you on a road trip for the ears: to visit the places and meet the people who make California unique. The in-depth storytelling podcast from the California Report.",
"airtime": "FRI 4:30pm-5pm, 6:30pm-7pm, 11pm-11:30pm",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "/californiareportmagazine",
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"order": 10
},
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM3NjkwNjk1OTAz",
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},
"city-arts": {
"id": "city-arts",
"title": "City Arts & Lectures",
"info": "A one-hour radio program to hear celebrated writers, artists and thinkers address contemporary ideas and values, often discussing the creative process. Please note: tapes or transcripts are not available",
"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/05/cityartsandlecture-300x300.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.cityarts.net/",
"airtime": "SUN 1pm-2pm, TUE 10pm, WED 1am",
"meta": {
"site": "news",
"source": "City Arts & Lectures"
},
"link": "https://www.cityarts.net",
"subscribe": {
"tuneIn": "https://tunein.com/radio/City-Arts-and-Lectures-p692/",
"rss": "https://www.cityarts.net/feed/"
}
},
"closealltabs": {
"id": "closealltabs",
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"info": "Close All Tabs breaks down how digital culture shapes our world through thoughtful insights and irreverent humor.",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "/podcasts/closealltabs",
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"order": 1
},
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"code-switch-life-kit": {
"id": "code-switch-life-kit",
"title": "Code Switch / Life Kit",
"info": "\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em>, which listeners will hear in the first part of the hour, has fearless and much-needed conversations about race. Hosted by journalists of color, the show tackles the subject of race head-on, exploring how it impacts every part of society — from politics and pop culture to history, sports and more.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em>, which will be in the second part of the hour, guides you through spaces and feelings no one prepares you for — from finances to mental health, from workplace microaggressions to imposter syndrome, from relationships to parenting. The show features experts with real world experience and shares their knowledge. Because everyone needs a little help being human.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/510312/codeswitch\">\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/lifekit\">\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />",
"airtime": "SUN 9pm-10pm",
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"meta": {
"site": "radio",
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},
"link": "/radio/program/code-switch-life-kit",
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cubnByLm9yZy9yc3MvcG9kY2FzdC5waHA_aWQ9NTEwMzEy",
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"commonwealth-club": {
"id": "commonwealth-club",
"title": "Commonwealth Club of California Podcast",
"info": "The Commonwealth Club of California is the nation's oldest and largest public affairs forum. As a non-partisan forum, The Club brings to the public airwaves diverse viewpoints on important topics. The Club's weekly radio broadcast - the oldest in the U.S., dating back to 1924 - is carried across the nation on public radio stations and is now podcasting. Our website archive features audio of our recent programs, as well as selected speeches from our long and distinguished history. This podcast feed is usually updated twice a week and is always un-edited.",
"airtime": "THU 10pm, FRI 1am",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Commonwealth-Club-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.commonwealthclub.org/podcasts",
"meta": {
"site": "news",
"source": "Commonwealth Club of California"
},
"link": "/radio/program/commonwealth-club",
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/commonwealth-club-of-california-podcast/id976334034?mt=2",
"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cDovL3d3dy5jb21tb253ZWFsdGhjbHViLm9yZy9hdWRpby9wb2RjYXN0L3dlZWtseS54bWw",
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}
},
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"id": "forum",
"title": "Forum",
"tagline": "The conversation starts here",
"info": "KQED’s live call-in program discussing local, state, national and international issues, as well as in-depth interviews.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 9am-11am, 10pm-11pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Forum-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
"imageAlt": "KQED Forum with Mina Kim and Alexis Madrigal",
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"meta": {
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"source": "kqed",
"order": 9
},
"link": "/forum",
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM5NTU3MzgxNjMz",
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},
"freakonomics-radio": {
"id": "freakonomics-radio",
"title": "Freakonomics Radio",
"info": "Freakonomics Radio is a one-hour award-winning podcast and public-radio project hosted by Stephen Dubner, with co-author Steve Levitt as a regular guest. It is produced in partnership with WNYC.",
"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/05/freakonomicsRadio.png",
"officialWebsiteLink": "http://freakonomics.com/",
"airtime": "SUN 1am-2am, SAT 3pm-4pm",
"meta": {
"site": "radio",
"source": "WNYC"
},
"link": "/radio/program/freakonomics-radio",
"subscribe": {
"npr": "https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/4s8b",
"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/freakonomics-radio/id354668519",
"tuneIn": "https://tunein.com/podcasts/WNYC-Podcasts/Freakonomics-Radio-p272293/",
"rss": "https://feeds.feedburner.com/freakonomicsradio"
}
},
"fresh-air": {
"id": "fresh-air",
"title": "Fresh Air",
"info": "Hosted by Terry Gross, \u003cem>Fresh Air from WHYY\u003c/em> is the Peabody Award-winning weekday magazine of contemporary arts and issues. One of public radio's most popular programs, Fresh Air features intimate conversations with today's biggest luminaries.",
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"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Fresh-Air-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
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"meta": {
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"link": "/radio/program/fresh-air",
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=214089682&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory",
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"rss": "https://feeds.npr.org/381444908/podcast.xml"
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"here-and-now": {
"id": "here-and-now",
"title": "Here & Now",
"info": "A live production of NPR and WBUR Boston, in collaboration with stations across the country, Here & Now reflects the fluid world of news as it's happening in the middle of the day, with timely, in-depth news, interviews and conversation. Hosted by Robin Young, Jeremy Hobson and Tonya Mosley.",
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"rss": "https://feeds.npr.org/510051/podcast.xml"
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},
"hidden-brain": {
"id": "hidden-brain",
"title": "Hidden Brain",
"info": "Shankar Vedantam uses science and storytelling to reveal the unconscious patterns that drive human behavior, shape our choices and direct our relationships.",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.npr.org/series/423302056/hidden-brain",
"airtime": "SUN 7pm-8pm",
"meta": {
"site": "news",
"source": "NPR"
},
"link": "/radio/program/hidden-brain",
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"tuneIn": "https://tunein.com/podcasts/Science-Podcasts/Hidden-Brain-p787503/",
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},
"how-i-built-this": {
"id": "how-i-built-this",
"title": "How I Built This with Guy Raz",
"info": "Guy Raz dives into the stories behind some of the world's best known companies. How I Built This weaves a narrative journey about innovators, entrepreneurs and idealists—and the movements they built.",
"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/05/howIBuiltThis.png",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.npr.org/podcasts/510313/how-i-built-this",
"airtime": "SUN 7:30pm-8pm",
"meta": {
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"source": "npr"
},
"link": "/radio/program/how-i-built-this",
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"npr": "https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/3zxy",
"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/how-i-built-this-with-guy-raz/id1150510297?mt=2",
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},
"hyphenacion": {
"id": "hyphenacion",
"title": "Hyphenación",
"tagline": "Where conversation and cultura meet",
"info": "What kind of no sabo word is Hyphenación? For us, it’s about living within a hyphenation. Like being a third-gen Mexican-American from the Texas border now living that Bay Area Chicano life. Like Xorje! Each week we bring together a couple of hyphenated Latinos to talk all about personal life choices: family, careers, relationships, belonging … everything is on the table. ",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2025/03/Hyphenacion_FinalAssets_PodcastTile.png",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "/podcasts/hyphenacion",
"meta": {
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"order": 15
},
"link": "/podcasts/hyphenacion",
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"spotify": "https://open.spotify.com/show/2p3Fifq96nw9BPcmFdIq0o?si=39209f7b25774f38",
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},
"jerrybrown": {
"id": "jerrybrown",
"title": "The Political Mind of Jerry Brown",
"tagline": "Lessons from a lifetime in politics",
"info": "The Political Mind of Jerry Brown brings listeners the wisdom of the former Governor, Mayor, and presidential candidate. Scott Shafer interviewed Brown for more than 40 hours, covering the former governor's life and half-century in the political game – and Brown has some lessons he'd like to share. ",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/The-Political-Mind-of-Jerry-Brown-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "/podcasts/jerrybrown",
"meta": {
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"order": 18
},
"link": "/podcasts/jerrybrown",
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/id1492194549",
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}
},
"latino-usa": {
"id": "latino-usa",
"title": "Latino USA",
"airtime": "MON 1am-2am, SUN 6pm-7pm",
"info": "Latino USA, the radio journal of news and culture, is the only national, English-language radio program produced from a Latino perspective.",
"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/latinoUsa.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "http://latinousa.org/",
"meta": {
"site": "news",
"source": "npr"
},
"link": "/radio/program/latino-usa",
"subscribe": {
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=79681317&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory",
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"rss": "https://feeds.npr.org/510016/podcast.xml"
}
},
"marketplace": {
"id": "marketplace",
"title": "Marketplace",
"info": "Our flagship program, helmed by Kai Ryssdal, examines what the day in money delivered, through stories, conversations, newsworthy numbers and more. Updated Monday through Friday at about 3:30 p.m. PT.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 4pm-4:30pm, MON-WED 6:30pm-7pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Marketplace-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.marketplace.org/",
"meta": {
"site": "news",
"source": "American Public Media"
},
"link": "/radio/program/marketplace",
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"rss": "https://feeds.publicradio.org/public_feeds/marketplace-pm/rss/rss"
}
},
"masters-of-scale": {
"id": "masters-of-scale",
"title": "Masters of Scale",
"info": "Masters of Scale is an original podcast in which LinkedIn co-founder and Greylock Partner Reid Hoffman sets out to describe and prove theories that explain how great entrepreneurs take their companies from zero to a gazillion in ingenious fashion.",
"airtime": "Every other Wednesday June 12 through October 16 at 8pm (repeats Thursdays at 2am)",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Masters-of-Scale-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://mastersofscale.com/",
"meta": {
"site": "radio",
"source": "WaitWhat"
},
"link": "/radio/program/masters-of-scale",
"subscribe": {
"apple": "http://mastersofscale.app.link/",
"rss": "https://rss.art19.com/masters-of-scale"
}
},
"mindshift": {
"id": "mindshift",
"title": "MindShift",
"tagline": "A podcast about the future of learning and how we raise our kids",
"info": "The MindShift podcast explores the innovations in education that are shaping how kids learn. Hosts Ki Sung and Katrina Schwartz introduce listeners to educators, researchers, parents and students who are developing effective ways to improve how kids learn. We cover topics like how fed-up administrators are developing surprising tactics to deal with classroom disruptions; how listening to podcasts are helping kids develop reading skills; the consequences of overparenting; and why interdisciplinary learning can engage students on all ends of the traditional achievement spectrum. This podcast is part of the MindShift education site, a division of KQED News. KQED is an NPR/PBS member station based in San Francisco. You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Mindshift-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
"imageAlt": "KQED MindShift: How We Will Learn",
"officialWebsiteLink": "/mindshift/",
"meta": {
"site": "news",
"source": "kqed",
"order": 12
},
"link": "/podcasts/mindshift",
"subscribe": {
"apple": "https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/mindshift-podcast/id1078765985",
"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM1NzY0NjAwNDI5",
"npr": "https://www.npr.org/podcasts/464615685/mind-shift-podcast",
"stitcher": "https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/kqed/stories-teachers-share",
"spotify": "https://open.spotify.com/show/0MxSpNYZKNprFLCl7eEtyx"
}
},
"morning-edition": {
"id": "morning-edition",
"title": "Morning Edition",
"info": "\u003cem>Morning Edition\u003c/em> takes listeners around the country and the world with multi-faceted stories and commentaries every weekday. Hosts Steve Inskeep, David Greene and Rachel Martin bring you the latest breaking news and features to prepare you for the day.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 3am-9am",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Morning-Edition-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.npr.org/programs/morning-edition/",
"meta": {
"site": "news",
"source": "npr"
},
"link": "/radio/program/morning-edition"
},
"onourwatch": {
"id": "onourwatch",
"title": "On Our Watch",
"tagline": "Deeply-reported investigative journalism",
"info": "For decades, the process for how police police themselves has been inconsistent – if not opaque. In some states, like California, these proceedings were completely hidden. After a new police transparency law unsealed scores of internal affairs files, our reporters set out to examine these cases and the shadow world of police discipline. On Our Watch brings listeners into the rooms where officers are questioned and witnesses are interrogated to find out who this system is really protecting. Is it the officers, or the public they've sworn to serve?",
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