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Her new book is dubbed, \"101 Asian Recipes Simple Enough for Tonight's Dinner\" and features fast, simple, and delicious recipes passed down from her mom and inspired by her fellow food bloggers. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I first met Jaden at the \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2009/09/28/blogher-food-09/\">BlogHer Food\u003c/a> conference a few months ago, and was struck by her focus, drive, and of course, her sparkling personality. Judging from her expansive multi-media reach (Jaden is workin' it -- not only does she have a blog and book, she also writes a weekly column for the \u003cem>Tampa Tribune\u003c/em> and has a syndicated show on \u003cem>Tampa Bay's CBS10\u003c/em>), it's hard to believe that she's only been at this whole food thing for 2 ½ years. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(Other than feeling a little bad about myself) I find inspiration in her hustle. It was a pleasure chatting with Jaden, and I found myself nodding and smiling as her enthusiasm flowed through the phone line. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It wasn't until she moved away from California to a suburb of Tampa, devoid of good Asian markets and her mother's home cooking, that Jaden learned to cook. She earned her culinary degree via a $448.63 cell phone bill, and when I read her dedication on the front page of her book (\"To my Mom, who spent thousands of hours reciting family recipe over the phone...and to my Dad, who patiently translated when our Chinglish didn't suffice.\"), I was reminded of my own inadequate Chinglish...and all the times I called my own mom from the grocery store, or begged her to just \u003cem>estimate\u003c/em> how much soy sauce/rice vinegar/black bean sauce she used in a dish so I could piece together some semblance of a recipe. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Steamy Kitchen\u003c/strong> honors the passing down of recipes from generation to generation, from friend to friend, and recognizes that in doing so, it becomes more than just a recipe, but a tangible expression of family and community. I love that. I also love that the cookbook lends a real-life perspective on learning how to take what you have available and adapt it to your family meal. And, I love that this is a \"homegrown\" cookbook, written, styled, and photographed by Jaden herself. (True fact, the photos where you see her hands preparing a dish were taken by her 4-year-old son via tripod, wireless remote clicker, and chocolate bribe.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Below is a recipe for \u003cstrong>Firecracker Shrimp\u003c/strong>, straight from \u003cstrong>The Steamy Kitchen Cookbook\u003c/strong>. It is a recipe that has become a regular at Jaden's dinner parties, and she warns, they rarely make it to the table because guests stand in the kitchen snagging them as they cool on the rack. The recipe is originally from \u003cstrong>Rice and Noodles\u003c/strong> by \u003cstrong>Mae Gabriel\u003c/strong>, a blog that inspired Jaden to take food photography seriously.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A good indication of the other dishes in The Steamy Kitchen Cookbook, these Firecracker Shrimp are enticing and accessible. And, I'm fairly certain they won't be making it past the cooling rack at my next party either. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/12/firecracker-shrimp-photo.jpg\" alt=\"Firecracker Shrimp Appetizer\" title=\"Firecracker Shrimp Appetizer\" width=\"333\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-8647\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Firecracker Shrimp, Photo by Jaden Hair\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Firecracker Shrimp\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>From The Steamy Kitchen Cookbook by Jaden Hair\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Serves:\u003c/strong> 4-6 as appetizer\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1 tablespoon cornstarch or flour\u003cbr>\n¼ cup water\u003cbr>\n24 medium tail-on shrimp, shelled (leave tails on) and deveined\u003cbr>\n½ teaspoon salt\u003cbr>\nFreshly ground black pepper\u003cbr>\n1 cup sweet chilli sauce, divided \u003cem>*Recommended brands: Mae Ploy and Lingham (thicker, spicier and less sweet than Mae Ploy)\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n12 eggroll or fresh spring roll wrappers, cut in half diagonally and covered with plastic wrap or a damp cloth\u003cbr>\nHigh-heat cooking oil for frying\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1)\tIn a small bowl, mix the cornstarch with the water to make a slurry.\u003cbr>\n2)\tLay the shrimp flat on a cutting board and using a sharp paring knife, cut a few nicks on the inside curve of the shrimp. Be careful not to cut through the shrimp. Pat the shrimp very dry.\u003cbr>\n3)\tSeason the shrimp with the salt and pepper. Pour ¼ cup of the sweet chilli sauce on a small plate. Hold the shrimp by its tail and dip both sides of the shrimp in the sweet chilli sauce. Avoid getting the tails wet (if the tail of the shrimp is wet with marinade, it will splatter in the hot oil). Let the shrimp marinade for 10 minutes at room temperature.\u003cbr>\n4)\tUse paper towels to pat the shrimp slightly, to soak up the extra marinade. Some of the sticky sweet chilli sauce should still be on the shrimp.\u003cbr>\n5)\tRoll the shrimp in the halved wrappers, following the instructions below.\u003cbr>\n6)\tIn a wok, deep fryer or large sauté pan, add 1 ½ inches of oil and heat it to 375 degrees F. Add the firecracker shrimp a few at a time to the oil and fry until golden brown on each side, about 3 minutes. Drain on a baking rack and serve with a side of sweet chilli sauce for dipping.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Option: \u003c/em>Add a thin slice of mango with the shrimp with wrapping to make Firecracker Mango Shrimp.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/12/firecracker-shrimp-wrapoing.jpg\" alt=\"Wrapping firecracker shrimp, step by step\" title=\"Wrapping firecracker shrimp, step by step\" width=\"500\" height=\"150\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-8648\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Step by Step Wrapping\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Rolling the Shrimp Wrapper\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1)\tLay an eggroll or spring roll wrapper on a dry, clean surface as shown. Lay a shrimp with the tail sticking out.\u003cbr>\n2)\tBring the left corner of the wrapper over the shrimp and being rolling left to right. Make sure that you are rolling tightly. As you roll, bring the top corner o the wrapper down and over the shrimp. Again, make sure you leave no open pockets of air. Big air pockets and holes will allow oil to seep in.\u003cbr>\n3)\tContinue rolling towards the right. Dip your finger or a pastry brush into the cornstarch slurry and pain the final corner. Roll to seal. Lay the roll seam side down on a dry plate or tray. Repeat with the rest of the shrimp and wrappers. Keep all uncooked Firecracker Shrimp covered with plastic wrap or barely damp towel.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Take a peek into Jaden Hair's Steamy Kitchen Cookbook and learn to make her irresistible Firecracker Shrimp.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/12/steamykitchencookbookcover_em.jpg\" alt=\"Steamy Kitchen Cookbook\" title=\"Steamy Kitchen Cookbook\" width=\"200\" height=\"189\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-8649\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>The Steamy Kitchen Cookbook\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"A girl's gotta eat!\" quips \u003cstrong>Jaden Hair\u003c/strong>, self-taught cook, creator of the popular food blog \u003ca href=\"http://steamykitchen.com/\">Steamy Kitchen\u003c/a>, and most recently, author of \u003cstrong>The Steamy Kitchen Cookbook\u003c/strong>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is the kind of sass and practicality that makes Jaden's work so enjoyable and relatable. Her new book is dubbed, \"101 Asian Recipes Simple Enough for Tonight's Dinner\" and features fast, simple, and delicious recipes passed down from her mom and inspired by her fellow food bloggers. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I first met Jaden at the \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2009/09/28/blogher-food-09/\">BlogHer Food\u003c/a> conference a few months ago, and was struck by her focus, drive, and of course, her sparkling personality. Judging from her expansive multi-media reach (Jaden is workin' it -- not only does she have a blog and book, she also writes a weekly column for the \u003cem>Tampa Tribune\u003c/em> and has a syndicated show on \u003cem>Tampa Bay's CBS10\u003c/em>), it's hard to believe that she's only been at this whole food thing for 2 ½ years. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(Other than feeling a little bad about myself) I find inspiration in her hustle. It was a pleasure chatting with Jaden, and I found myself nodding and smiling as her enthusiasm flowed through the phone line. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It wasn't until she moved away from California to a suburb of Tampa, devoid of good Asian markets and her mother's home cooking, that Jaden learned to cook. She earned her culinary degree via a $448.63 cell phone bill, and when I read her dedication on the front page of her book (\"To my Mom, who spent thousands of hours reciting family recipe over the phone...and to my Dad, who patiently translated when our Chinglish didn't suffice.\"), I was reminded of my own inadequate Chinglish...and all the times I called my own mom from the grocery store, or begged her to just \u003cem>estimate\u003c/em> how much soy sauce/rice vinegar/black bean sauce she used in a dish so I could piece together some semblance of a recipe. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Steamy Kitchen\u003c/strong> honors the passing down of recipes from generation to generation, from friend to friend, and recognizes that in doing so, it becomes more than just a recipe, but a tangible expression of family and community. I love that. I also love that the cookbook lends a real-life perspective on learning how to take what you have available and adapt it to your family meal. And, I love that this is a \"homegrown\" cookbook, written, styled, and photographed by Jaden herself. (True fact, the photos where you see her hands preparing a dish were taken by her 4-year-old son via tripod, wireless remote clicker, and chocolate bribe.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Below is a recipe for \u003cstrong>Firecracker Shrimp\u003c/strong>, straight from \u003cstrong>The Steamy Kitchen Cookbook\u003c/strong>. It is a recipe that has become a regular at Jaden's dinner parties, and she warns, they rarely make it to the table because guests stand in the kitchen snagging them as they cool on the rack. The recipe is originally from \u003cstrong>Rice and Noodles\u003c/strong> by \u003cstrong>Mae Gabriel\u003c/strong>, a blog that inspired Jaden to take food photography seriously.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A good indication of the other dishes in The Steamy Kitchen Cookbook, these Firecracker Shrimp are enticing and accessible. And, I'm fairly certain they won't be making it past the cooling rack at my next party either. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/12/firecracker-shrimp-photo.jpg\" alt=\"Firecracker Shrimp Appetizer\" title=\"Firecracker Shrimp Appetizer\" width=\"333\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-8647\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Firecracker Shrimp, Photo by Jaden Hair\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Firecracker Shrimp\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>From The Steamy Kitchen Cookbook by Jaden Hair\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Serves:\u003c/strong> 4-6 as appetizer\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1 tablespoon cornstarch or flour\u003cbr>\n¼ cup water\u003cbr>\n24 medium tail-on shrimp, shelled (leave tails on) and deveined\u003cbr>\n½ teaspoon salt\u003cbr>\nFreshly ground black pepper\u003cbr>\n1 cup sweet chilli sauce, divided \u003cem>*Recommended brands: Mae Ploy and Lingham (thicker, spicier and less sweet than Mae Ploy)\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n12 eggroll or fresh spring roll wrappers, cut in half diagonally and covered with plastic wrap or a damp cloth\u003cbr>\nHigh-heat cooking oil for frying\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1)\tIn a small bowl, mix the cornstarch with the water to make a slurry.\u003cbr>\n2)\tLay the shrimp flat on a cutting board and using a sharp paring knife, cut a few nicks on the inside curve of the shrimp. Be careful not to cut through the shrimp. Pat the shrimp very dry.\u003cbr>\n3)\tSeason the shrimp with the salt and pepper. Pour ¼ cup of the sweet chilli sauce on a small plate. Hold the shrimp by its tail and dip both sides of the shrimp in the sweet chilli sauce. Avoid getting the tails wet (if the tail of the shrimp is wet with marinade, it will splatter in the hot oil). Let the shrimp marinade for 10 minutes at room temperature.\u003cbr>\n4)\tUse paper towels to pat the shrimp slightly, to soak up the extra marinade. Some of the sticky sweet chilli sauce should still be on the shrimp.\u003cbr>\n5)\tRoll the shrimp in the halved wrappers, following the instructions below.\u003cbr>\n6)\tIn a wok, deep fryer or large sauté pan, add 1 ½ inches of oil and heat it to 375 degrees F. Add the firecracker shrimp a few at a time to the oil and fry until golden brown on each side, about 3 minutes. Drain on a baking rack and serve with a side of sweet chilli sauce for dipping.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Option: \u003c/em>Add a thin slice of mango with the shrimp with wrapping to make Firecracker Mango Shrimp.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/12/firecracker-shrimp-wrapoing.jpg\" alt=\"Wrapping firecracker shrimp, step by step\" title=\"Wrapping firecracker shrimp, step by step\" width=\"500\" height=\"150\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-8648\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Step by Step Wrapping\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Rolling the Shrimp Wrapper\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1)\tLay an eggroll or spring roll wrapper on a dry, clean surface as shown. Lay a shrimp with the tail sticking out.\u003cbr>\n2)\tBring the left corner of the wrapper over the shrimp and being rolling left to right. Make sure that you are rolling tightly. As you roll, bring the top corner o the wrapper down and over the shrimp. Again, make sure you leave no open pockets of air. Big air pockets and holes will allow oil to seep in.\u003cbr>\n3)\tContinue rolling towards the right. Dip your finger or a pastry brush into the cornstarch slurry and pain the final corner. Roll to seal. Lay the roll seam side down on a dry plate or tray. Repeat with the rest of the shrimp and wrappers. Keep all uncooked Firecracker Shrimp covered with plastic wrap or barely damp towel.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Vietnamese Coffee: In Pursuit of the Perfect Cup",
"title": "Vietnamese Coffee: In Pursuit of the Perfect Cup",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/vietnamese-coffee-slow-drip.jpg\" alt=\"vietnamese coffee slow drip\" title=\"vietnamese coffee slow drip\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-8283\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Vietnamese Coffee, Trung Nguyen\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Enjoying your slow-drip coffee is a quintessential part of life in Vietnam. Whether you're stoopin' it, shouting your order down the street to the local coffee cart on the corner, or enjoying a carefully prepared cup in an upscale coffee house, Vietnamese coffee is meant to be savored and enjoyed to the max. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One reason is the time it takes to brew a cup. Vietnamese coffee is not for the rushy-rushy. Single servings are brewed through a simple metal filter called a \u003cem>Phin\u003c/em>, which takes a good 5-10 minutes to produce a cup. The filter is fitted over the top of a cup, or glass (if you're making iced coffee), the grounds are placed inside the filter (about the same size grind as what you would use for a French press), a small weighted piece is placed on top, and then hot water is poured into the chamber. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/vietnamese-coffee-phin-filter.jpg\" alt=\"vietnamese coffee phin filter\" title=\"vietnamese coffee phin filter\" width=\"333\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-8282\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Vietnamese coffee, Phin filter\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another reason to approach the experience with leisure is simply the heavenly flavor. Like espresso, Vietnamese coffee is deep and rich, and a little goes a long way. What makes it really stand out though in my mind, is its incredible buttery aroma and flavor. It wasn't until I bought some roasted beans from a mom-and-pop coffee/tea shop that I learned why exactly the coffee tasted so buttery -- you got it, it's because the beans are actually roasted in clarified butter! Brilliant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As if that doesn't sound decadent enough, sweetened condensed milk is typically used in lieu of cream and sugar both for practical reasons (it doesn't have to be refrigerated) and for taste (Have you had sweetened condensed milk lately? Think creamy, thick, dulce de leche goodness...in your coffee...\u003cem>everyday\u003c/em>!). This is why Vietnamese coffee is a habit I could really get used to. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/iced-vietnamese-coffee.jpg\" alt=\"iced vietnamese coffee\" title=\"iced vietnamese coffee\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-8279\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Vietnamese Iced Coffee (Ca Phe Sua Da)\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In Saigon, with so much fantastic coffee everywhere we turned, it was tough to be too discriminating. So, I left it to the locals to show me the way. Vietnam is a country of food-lovers and total coffee addicts. My favorite conversation starter was asking a local: Where is the best food in town? People would bubble over with recommendations and loved talking about their favorite food, where to get it, and how to eat it. Everyone had an opinion.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One afternoon, over a Lazy Susan laden with dim sum, an impassioned discussion over the most delectable \u003cem>banh xeo\u003c/em>, the silkiest tofu, the best hand-pulled noodles with half a crab on top, turned into a full-on debate over where to grab coffee afterward. One fellow named Nguyen insisted, \"The best coffee is at my sister's place,\" and after a few nods of acquiescence from his accompanying friends, we were off to taste for ourselves if he was indeed correct.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We hopped on our motorbikes and went caravanning off through the maze of commuters. Put-putting over main highways, over to District 7 we went...on a mission for the perfect \u003cstrong>Ca Phe Sua Da\u003c/strong> (iced coffee with sweetened condensed milk). It was spontaneous, exhilarating, and as the wind whipped through my hair, I couldn't help but envision Anthony Bourdain's crew on our tracks, kicking up some dust behind us. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/saigon-motorbikes.jpg\" alt=\"saigon motorbikes\" title=\"saigon motorbikes\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-8281\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Saigon Motorbike Ebb and Flow\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What we came upon was a breezy little oasis of an internet cafe, tucked away amongst sprawling new developments and construction sites. The cafe itself is called \u003cstrong>Goc Peo\u003c/strong>, but the main signage outside speaks to the main reason for visiting -- the rich and aromatic \u003cstrong>Trung Nguyen\u003c/strong> coffee served. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/coffee-time-at-trung-nguyen.jpg\" alt=\"coffee time at trung nguyen\" title=\"coffee time at trung nguyen\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-8278\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Coffee time at Trung Nguyen\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Trung Nguyen seems to have made a nice business for itself, their chains and signs are all over Saigon, as well as the airport gift shop, and while the prices are expensive by Vietnamese standards, they are still relatively cheap by US standards (a cup of their famous \"Legendee Coffee\" was about $2 USD). Incidentally, Trung Nguyen has a pretty comprehensive website that explains all about what defines Vietnamese coffee and makes it unique, namely:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1)\tThe topography of the Annamite Range has allowed for a diverse variety of beans to flourish in Southeast Asia. By \u003cstrong>blending a variety of bean species\u003c/strong> (Arabica, Robusta, Excelsa and Catimor) rather than sticking to a single-source (like 100% Arabica), a broader flavor range is achieved.\u003cbr>\n2)\tA \u003cstrong>lower-temperature, longer roasting process\u003c/strong> that is stable and consistent.\u003cbr>\n3)\tRoasting the beans in \u003cstrong>clarified butter\u003c/strong>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another interesting fact I learned about Trung Nguyen's coffee is that they produce what they call their Legendee Coffee, a \"unique enzymatically-treated coffee that releases flavors bound in the beans and not released under ordinary processing.\" The Legendee Coffee was what Nguyen brought us to taste. Read more about the \u003ca href=\"http://www.trung-nguyen-online.com/legendee.html\">Legend of Legendee\u003c/a> and how modern science has attempted to reproduce the infamously expensive (and kinda gross) Kopi Luwak coffee, made with the help of the weasel-like civit. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My final verdict? The Legendee was worth experiencing, although a little intense for me to want to drink on a daily basis. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/iced-vietnamese-coffee-at-trung-nguyen.jpg\" alt=\"iced vietnamese coffee at trung nguyen\" title=\"iced vietnamese coffee at trung nguyen\" width=\"333\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-8280\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Vietnamese Iced Coffee, Trung Nguyen \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Regardless, it was a joy to spend an afternoon in pursuit of the perfect cup with company who really loved their coffee. Company who loved it so much, they continued on their way, buzzing away to the next cup as we rookie tourists bid farewell. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>ADDRESS\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Goc Peo\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nSo 16 Duong 8B, KDC Trung Son\u003cbr>\nNguyen Van Cu noi dai – TP. Ho Chi Minh City\u003cbr>\nVietnam\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Like espresso, Vietnamese coffee is deep and rich, and a little goes a long way. What makes it really stand out though is its incredible buttery aroma and flavor. Add a generous drizzle of sweetened condensed milk and you have a habit that will be hard to shake. ",
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"description": "Like espresso, Vietnamese coffee is deep and rich, and a little goes a long way. What makes it really stand out though is its incredible buttery aroma and flavor. Add a generous drizzle of sweetened condensed milk and you have a habit that will be hard to shake. ",
"title": "Vietnamese Coffee: In Pursuit of the Perfect Cup | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/vietnamese-coffee-slow-drip.jpg\" alt=\"vietnamese coffee slow drip\" title=\"vietnamese coffee slow drip\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-8283\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Vietnamese Coffee, Trung Nguyen\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Enjoying your slow-drip coffee is a quintessential part of life in Vietnam. Whether you're stoopin' it, shouting your order down the street to the local coffee cart on the corner, or enjoying a carefully prepared cup in an upscale coffee house, Vietnamese coffee is meant to be savored and enjoyed to the max. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One reason is the time it takes to brew a cup. Vietnamese coffee is not for the rushy-rushy. Single servings are brewed through a simple metal filter called a \u003cem>Phin\u003c/em>, which takes a good 5-10 minutes to produce a cup. The filter is fitted over the top of a cup, or glass (if you're making iced coffee), the grounds are placed inside the filter (about the same size grind as what you would use for a French press), a small weighted piece is placed on top, and then hot water is poured into the chamber. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/vietnamese-coffee-phin-filter.jpg\" alt=\"vietnamese coffee phin filter\" title=\"vietnamese coffee phin filter\" width=\"333\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-8282\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Vietnamese coffee, Phin filter\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another reason to approach the experience with leisure is simply the heavenly flavor. Like espresso, Vietnamese coffee is deep and rich, and a little goes a long way. What makes it really stand out though in my mind, is its incredible buttery aroma and flavor. It wasn't until I bought some roasted beans from a mom-and-pop coffee/tea shop that I learned why exactly the coffee tasted so buttery -- you got it, it's because the beans are actually roasted in clarified butter! Brilliant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As if that doesn't sound decadent enough, sweetened condensed milk is typically used in lieu of cream and sugar both for practical reasons (it doesn't have to be refrigerated) and for taste (Have you had sweetened condensed milk lately? Think creamy, thick, dulce de leche goodness...in your coffee...\u003cem>everyday\u003c/em>!). This is why Vietnamese coffee is a habit I could really get used to. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/iced-vietnamese-coffee.jpg\" alt=\"iced vietnamese coffee\" title=\"iced vietnamese coffee\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-8279\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Vietnamese Iced Coffee (Ca Phe Sua Da)\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In Saigon, with so much fantastic coffee everywhere we turned, it was tough to be too discriminating. So, I left it to the locals to show me the way. Vietnam is a country of food-lovers and total coffee addicts. My favorite conversation starter was asking a local: Where is the best food in town? People would bubble over with recommendations and loved talking about their favorite food, where to get it, and how to eat it. Everyone had an opinion.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One afternoon, over a Lazy Susan laden with dim sum, an impassioned discussion over the most delectable \u003cem>banh xeo\u003c/em>, the silkiest tofu, the best hand-pulled noodles with half a crab on top, turned into a full-on debate over where to grab coffee afterward. One fellow named Nguyen insisted, \"The best coffee is at my sister's place,\" and after a few nods of acquiescence from his accompanying friends, we were off to taste for ourselves if he was indeed correct.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We hopped on our motorbikes and went caravanning off through the maze of commuters. Put-putting over main highways, over to District 7 we went...on a mission for the perfect \u003cstrong>Ca Phe Sua Da\u003c/strong> (iced coffee with sweetened condensed milk). It was spontaneous, exhilarating, and as the wind whipped through my hair, I couldn't help but envision Anthony Bourdain's crew on our tracks, kicking up some dust behind us. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/saigon-motorbikes.jpg\" alt=\"saigon motorbikes\" title=\"saigon motorbikes\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-8281\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Saigon Motorbike Ebb and Flow\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What we came upon was a breezy little oasis of an internet cafe, tucked away amongst sprawling new developments and construction sites. The cafe itself is called \u003cstrong>Goc Peo\u003c/strong>, but the main signage outside speaks to the main reason for visiting -- the rich and aromatic \u003cstrong>Trung Nguyen\u003c/strong> coffee served. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/coffee-time-at-trung-nguyen.jpg\" alt=\"coffee time at trung nguyen\" title=\"coffee time at trung nguyen\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-8278\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Coffee time at Trung Nguyen\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Trung Nguyen seems to have made a nice business for itself, their chains and signs are all over Saigon, as well as the airport gift shop, and while the prices are expensive by Vietnamese standards, they are still relatively cheap by US standards (a cup of their famous \"Legendee Coffee\" was about $2 USD). Incidentally, Trung Nguyen has a pretty comprehensive website that explains all about what defines Vietnamese coffee and makes it unique, namely:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1)\tThe topography of the Annamite Range has allowed for a diverse variety of beans to flourish in Southeast Asia. By \u003cstrong>blending a variety of bean species\u003c/strong> (Arabica, Robusta, Excelsa and Catimor) rather than sticking to a single-source (like 100% Arabica), a broader flavor range is achieved.\u003cbr>\n2)\tA \u003cstrong>lower-temperature, longer roasting process\u003c/strong> that is stable and consistent.\u003cbr>\n3)\tRoasting the beans in \u003cstrong>clarified butter\u003c/strong>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another interesting fact I learned about Trung Nguyen's coffee is that they produce what they call their Legendee Coffee, a \"unique enzymatically-treated coffee that releases flavors bound in the beans and not released under ordinary processing.\" The Legendee Coffee was what Nguyen brought us to taste. Read more about the \u003ca href=\"http://www.trung-nguyen-online.com/legendee.html\">Legend of Legendee\u003c/a> and how modern science has attempted to reproduce the infamously expensive (and kinda gross) Kopi Luwak coffee, made with the help of the weasel-like civit. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My final verdict? The Legendee was worth experiencing, although a little intense for me to want to drink on a daily basis. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/iced-vietnamese-coffee-at-trung-nguyen.jpg\" alt=\"iced vietnamese coffee at trung nguyen\" title=\"iced vietnamese coffee at trung nguyen\" width=\"333\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-8280\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Vietnamese Iced Coffee, Trung Nguyen \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Regardless, it was a joy to spend an afternoon in pursuit of the perfect cup with company who really loved their coffee. Company who loved it so much, they continued on their way, buzzing away to the next cup as we rookie tourists bid farewell. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>ADDRESS\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Goc Peo\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nSo 16 Duong 8B, KDC Trung Son\u003cbr>\nNguyen Van Cu noi dai – TP. Ho Chi Minh City\u003cbr>\nVietnam\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Saigon Street Food",
"title": "Saigon Street Food",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/vietnam_saigon_oct09-556.jpg\" alt=\"vietnam saigon snails\" title=\"vietnam saigon snails\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7849\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Making amazing snails in District 1, Oc Huong Pho Mai\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I've been eating myself silly the past 15 days -- I know, what's new. But no, this has been a really special kind of silly. The eating-my-way-through \u003cstrong>Vietnam\u003c/strong> kind of silly!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Well, to be more specific, not quite all of Vietnam, since an unexpected detour to Hong Kong for a roundtrip price of $150 proved too tempting to pass up, but for sure, through a majority of Ho Chi Minh City (a.k.a. Saigon).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There is a good reason why even hardened eaters like Anthony Bourdain have fallen so in love with the cuisine of Vietnam. It's fresh, vibrant, varied, and satisfying without feeling gluttonously heavy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And, most often, it is cooked on the spot, right before your eyes, on the street, by someone who has been making that one particular dish over and over, for years, decades, quite possibly, generations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Since Hua's father and uncles are locals, we had the benefit of zipping about on the back of their motorbikes (amongst the unimaginable number of other motorbikes on the road), being led by the nose to some of the most delicious food I have ever tasted.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That's a big statement, I know, but I stand by it. These local favorites are something special. Purveyors of food so good, so exciting, so complex in flavor yet simple in execution, I ate like I was starved (which is absurd because I don’t think I once felt the sensation of \"hunger\" the entire trip). I now pass this joy to you. Go seek these places/dishes out:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/vietnam_saigon_oct09-022.jpg\" alt=\"vietnam saigon Cha Gue\" title=\"vietnam saigon Cha Gue\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7844\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Cha Gue, Nen Nha Dat\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Place: Nen Nha Dat \u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>While I don't think this is the real \"name\" of this vendor, this is what the sign says above the storefront where this little set-up is situated.\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Dish:\u003c/strong> Cha Gue (pronounced \"chow gway\")\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Translation:\u003c/strong> Pan-fried Rice Flour Cake with Egg\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Address:\u003c/strong> 91 Ha Ton Quyen (cross street: Tan Thanh) - P.15, Q.5\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/vietnam_saigon_oct09-019.jpg\" alt=\"vietnam saigon Awaiting Cha Gue \" title=\"vietnam saigon Awaiting Cha Gue \" width=\"333\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7843\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Awaiting Cha Gue \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Located in District 5, sort of like the Chinatown of HCMC, Hua's dad took us here for a snack on Day 1. The bar was set high early. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The dish consisted of thick, rectangular pieces of pan-fried rice flour cake. The perfect golden crisp on the outside is beautifully offset by the smooth, supple texture on the inside. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When the rice cakes are nearing the end of their browning, an egg is cracked over them and the rich orange-hued yolk is broken. Throw a handful of minced green onion on the pan to warm through, and add bits of fried onion, fried pork skin (like little precious bits of chicharrones), and garlic. The dish is then served with a side of homemade pickled daikon and carrot slaw, and a savory dipping sauce of sweet soy sauce and a dollop of chili sauce. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/vietnam_saigon_oct09-016.jpg\" alt=\"vietnam saigon Cha Gue, Nen Nha Dat\" title=\"vietnam saigon Cha Gue, Nen Nha Dat\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7842\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Cha Gue, Nen Nha Dat\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Cha Gue, hot off the pan, had this corner bumpin', and even in the rain people were pulling up on their motorbikes and shouting their orders to-go from the street. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Apparently, business is so good that the owner doesn't want to grow his operations because he's afraid he wouldn't be able to handle the volume. Interesting how this kind of success would inspire a very different response back home, as I envisioned a fleet of Kogi taco trucks multiplying like rabbits in the streets of LA. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/vietnam_saigon_oct09-579.jpg\" alt=\"vietnam saigon Wok-fried Snails, Oc Huong Pho Mai\" title=\"vietnam saigon Wok-fried Snails, Oc Huong Pho Mai\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7851\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Wok-fried Snails, Oc Huong Pho Mai\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Place: Oc Huong Pho Mai\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Dish:\u003c/strong> Wok-fried Snails in a heavenly sauce\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Translation:\u003c/strong> Bliss\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Address:\u003c/strong> 37/3 Nguyen Cauh Chan - Q.1\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After day of shopping in Saigon Square we were carted off to rejuvenate ourselves with a little pre-dinner feast of the most amazing snails I've ever had.\u003cbr>\nI was skeptical as we turned onto a tiny, dimly-lit, nondescript, side-street. It would have been a little sketchy if it wasn't for the insanely cute kindergarten class that was being held a few doors down. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/vietnam_saigon_oct09-543.jpg\" alt=\"vietnam saigon cute kids\" title=\"vietnam saigon cute kids\" width=\"333\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7848\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Cute kids near snails\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The set up of the shop was typical -- a kitchen (comprised of a few burners and a grill) that spilled out from the ground floor of someone's home onto the street, a few small tables and chairs along the street, and an extra bonus here, a lady squeezing fresh sugarcane juice right across the street! It couldn't have been better.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/vietnam_saigon_oct09-561.jpg\" alt=\"vietnam saigon Making fresh sugarcane juice\" title=\"vietnam saigon Making fresh sugarcane juice\" width=\"333\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7850\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Making fresh sugarcane juice\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We over-ordered of course, and out came dishes of small snails, large snails, clams, crab, even \u003cstrong>balut\u003c/strong>! \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For those unfamiliar, balut is a fertilized duck egg with a nearly-developed embryo inside that is boiled and then eaten out of the shell with a spoon. You heard right, a partial chick (please don't hate me). Since it was my first time trying this delicacy, I was advised not to look directly at it (kind of like that adage of not staring into the sun). The texture can be challenging if you're squeamish, and you can't help but look too closely, but the flavor was good. As expected, a combo of an egg and chicken, but all in one bite. A little dish of salt and pepper mixed with lemon juice added a nice kick of flavor, and of course, some herbage, coriander leaves.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That was probably the most exotic thing I tried on this trip, but the snails! Those may have been the best. Boiled first to cook through, then finished off in a wok, seared until some magical sauce evaporated and coated the shells. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/vietnam_saigon_oct09-587.jpg\" alt=\"vietnam saigon eating snails\" title=\"vietnam saigon eating snails\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7852\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Bliss\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The snails themselves were meaty and succulent, but the sauce, now that was truly extraordinary: a little creamy and cheesy, with a touch of sweetness, and a tinge of heat that played on our lips. It was caramelized into almost a crust on the shells. We unabashedly licked our fingers clean while still reaching for more. The flavor teased us as we chased after it, wanting to savor it, have more of it, freakin' bathe in it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/vietnam_saigon_oct09-465.jpg\" alt=\"vietnam saigon Hu Tiu Nam Vang, Tin Phuc\" title=\"vietnam saigon Hu Tiu Nam Vang, Tin Phuc\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7845\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Hu Tiu Nam Vang, Tin Phuc\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Place: Tin Phuc\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Dish:\u003c/strong> Hu Tiu Nam Vang (pronounced \"hoo tee-yoo nam vang\")\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Translation:\u003c/strong> Pork and Crab Noodle Soup\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Address:\u003c/strong> 16 Duong Dinh Nghe (cross street: Cu Xa Binh Thoi) - P.8, Q.11\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/vietnam_saigon_oct09-472.jpg\" alt=\"vietnam saigon Tin Phuc\" title=\"vietnam saigon Tin Phuc\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7847\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Tin Phuc\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tin Phuc is more of restaurant than actual street food, although, with its breezy architecture, you could technically drive right in if you really wanted to.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Regardless, it is delicious. Only one dish is served so you can't mess up the order: Hu Tiu Nam Vang. (In Cantonese we call it \"gum been fun.\") You can order it \"dry\" but the soup is so good that you probably won't want to.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Basically, hu tiu is a noodle soup similar to pho, but more seafood-based and with a light broth. Prior to this meal, I had never tasted it before, so I did some research on its origins. Vietnamese culinary expert \u003cstrong>Andrea Nguyen\u003c/strong> had much light to shed regarding this \u003ca href=\"http://vietworldkitchen.typepad.com/blog/2007/11/hu-tieu-nam-van.html\">addictive dish.\u003c/a> According to Andrea, \"At its core, hu tieu signals a Chinese-Southeast Asian style noodle soup made with a pork bone broth and no fish sauce.\" But, there are many riffs on it, one of which is the Nam Vang style, \"Nam Vang\" being the Vietnamese word for Phnom Penh (the capital of Cambodia). Thus, Vietnam's proximity to Cambodia resulted in this Cambodian-Chinese concoction.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/vietnam_saigon_oct09-468.jpg\" alt=\"vietnam saigon herbs\" title=\"vietnam saigon herbs\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7846\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Herbage\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tin Phuc's rendition of Hu Tiu Nam Vang is divine. The soup is phenomenal, sweet and rich, made from the stock of pork bones and crab shells. The angel-hair-thin opaque rice noodles have just the right amount of springy chew to them. And the toppings are generous portions of pork meat, tendon and heart, crab meat, and shrimp. Tear up handfuls of leafy Romaine, Chinese celery and flat Chinese chives, add some crunchy bean sprouts, a touch of chili pepper, and you good to go. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The result is soul-satisfying. Warm, comforting, full of umami, fresh and healthy feeling. I bet a bowl of this could cure a cold like nobody's business.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The best part? Lunch for 5 people here rolled up to a mere $9.75 USD.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/vietnam_saigon_oct09-598.jpg\" alt=\"vietnam saigon Street Scene\" title=\"vietnam saigon Street Scene\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7853\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Street Scene\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Back in September, Thy Tran wrote a great article on \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2009/09/01/beyond-festivals-street-food-actually-on-streets-and-sidewalks/\">Street Food Beyond Festivals\u003c/a> in which she compares the young street food culture in the U.S. to other places where it has been \"long embedded into their daily rhythms.\" Witnessing the street food culture of Saigon brought that alive for me. Daily rhythm is right, it seemed like everyone eats out all the time whether it’s having your morning coffee delivered to your front door from the coffee lady down the street, getting some fruit to-go from the number of fruit vendors rolling around, or popping a squat on a little plastic chair at a tea-party-sized table for dinner. Sure, the convenience, affordability, and quality of product are all great. But it is the daily human interaction, the chit chat, the sense of community that comes with it, that makes this daily rhythm so soothing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Nen Nha Dat (for Cha Gue)\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n91 Ha Ton Quyen (cross street: Tan Thanh) - P.15, Q.5\u003cbr>\nHo Chi Minh City, Vietnam\u003cbr>\nPhone: 0903380574 \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Oc Huong Pho Mai (for Snails)\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n37/3 Nguyen Cauh Chan - Q.1\u003cbr>\nHo Chi Minh City, Vietnam\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Tin Phuc (for Hu Tiu Nam Vang)\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n16 Duong Dinh Nghe (cross street: Cu Xa Binh Thoi) - P.8, Q.11\u003cbr>\nHo Chi Minh City, Vietnam\u003cbr>\nPhone: 3.9627977\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "There is a good reason why even hardened eaters like Anthony Bourdain have fallen so in love with the cuisine of Vietnam. It's fresh, vibrant, varied, and satisfying without feeling gluttonously heavy.\r\n\r\nAnd, most often, it is cooked on the spot, right before your eyes, on the street, by someone who has been making that one particular dish over and over, for years, decades, quite possibly, generations.\r\n\r\nHere are my top 3 street food hidden gems tucked away among the side streets of Ho Chi Minh City.",
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"description": "There is a good reason why even hardened eaters like Anthony Bourdain have fallen so in love with the cuisine of Vietnam. It's fresh, vibrant, varied, and satisfying without feeling gluttonously heavy.\r\n\r\nAnd, most often, it is cooked on the spot, right before your eyes, on the street, by someone who has been making that one particular dish over and over, for years, decades, quite possibly, generations.\r\n\r\nHere are my top 3 street food hidden gems tucked away among the side streets of Ho Chi Minh City.",
"title": "Saigon Street Food | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/vietnam_saigon_oct09-556.jpg\" alt=\"vietnam saigon snails\" title=\"vietnam saigon snails\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7849\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Making amazing snails in District 1, Oc Huong Pho Mai\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I've been eating myself silly the past 15 days -- I know, what's new. But no, this has been a really special kind of silly. The eating-my-way-through \u003cstrong>Vietnam\u003c/strong> kind of silly!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Well, to be more specific, not quite all of Vietnam, since an unexpected detour to Hong Kong for a roundtrip price of $150 proved too tempting to pass up, but for sure, through a majority of Ho Chi Minh City (a.k.a. Saigon).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There is a good reason why even hardened eaters like Anthony Bourdain have fallen so in love with the cuisine of Vietnam. It's fresh, vibrant, varied, and satisfying without feeling gluttonously heavy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And, most often, it is cooked on the spot, right before your eyes, on the street, by someone who has been making that one particular dish over and over, for years, decades, quite possibly, generations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Since Hua's father and uncles are locals, we had the benefit of zipping about on the back of their motorbikes (amongst the unimaginable number of other motorbikes on the road), being led by the nose to some of the most delicious food I have ever tasted.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That's a big statement, I know, but I stand by it. These local favorites are something special. Purveyors of food so good, so exciting, so complex in flavor yet simple in execution, I ate like I was starved (which is absurd because I don’t think I once felt the sensation of \"hunger\" the entire trip). I now pass this joy to you. Go seek these places/dishes out:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/vietnam_saigon_oct09-022.jpg\" alt=\"vietnam saigon Cha Gue\" title=\"vietnam saigon Cha Gue\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7844\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Cha Gue, Nen Nha Dat\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Place: Nen Nha Dat \u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>While I don't think this is the real \"name\" of this vendor, this is what the sign says above the storefront where this little set-up is situated.\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Dish:\u003c/strong> Cha Gue (pronounced \"chow gway\")\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Translation:\u003c/strong> Pan-fried Rice Flour Cake with Egg\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Address:\u003c/strong> 91 Ha Ton Quyen (cross street: Tan Thanh) - P.15, Q.5\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/vietnam_saigon_oct09-019.jpg\" alt=\"vietnam saigon Awaiting Cha Gue \" title=\"vietnam saigon Awaiting Cha Gue \" width=\"333\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7843\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Awaiting Cha Gue \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Located in District 5, sort of like the Chinatown of HCMC, Hua's dad took us here for a snack on Day 1. The bar was set high early. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The dish consisted of thick, rectangular pieces of pan-fried rice flour cake. The perfect golden crisp on the outside is beautifully offset by the smooth, supple texture on the inside. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When the rice cakes are nearing the end of their browning, an egg is cracked over them and the rich orange-hued yolk is broken. Throw a handful of minced green onion on the pan to warm through, and add bits of fried onion, fried pork skin (like little precious bits of chicharrones), and garlic. The dish is then served with a side of homemade pickled daikon and carrot slaw, and a savory dipping sauce of sweet soy sauce and a dollop of chili sauce. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/vietnam_saigon_oct09-016.jpg\" alt=\"vietnam saigon Cha Gue, Nen Nha Dat\" title=\"vietnam saigon Cha Gue, Nen Nha Dat\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7842\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Cha Gue, Nen Nha Dat\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Cha Gue, hot off the pan, had this corner bumpin', and even in the rain people were pulling up on their motorbikes and shouting their orders to-go from the street. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Apparently, business is so good that the owner doesn't want to grow his operations because he's afraid he wouldn't be able to handle the volume. Interesting how this kind of success would inspire a very different response back home, as I envisioned a fleet of Kogi taco trucks multiplying like rabbits in the streets of LA. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/vietnam_saigon_oct09-579.jpg\" alt=\"vietnam saigon Wok-fried Snails, Oc Huong Pho Mai\" title=\"vietnam saigon Wok-fried Snails, Oc Huong Pho Mai\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7851\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Wok-fried Snails, Oc Huong Pho Mai\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Place: Oc Huong Pho Mai\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Dish:\u003c/strong> Wok-fried Snails in a heavenly sauce\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Translation:\u003c/strong> Bliss\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Address:\u003c/strong> 37/3 Nguyen Cauh Chan - Q.1\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After day of shopping in Saigon Square we were carted off to rejuvenate ourselves with a little pre-dinner feast of the most amazing snails I've ever had.\u003cbr>\nI was skeptical as we turned onto a tiny, dimly-lit, nondescript, side-street. It would have been a little sketchy if it wasn't for the insanely cute kindergarten class that was being held a few doors down. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/vietnam_saigon_oct09-543.jpg\" alt=\"vietnam saigon cute kids\" title=\"vietnam saigon cute kids\" width=\"333\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7848\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Cute kids near snails\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The set up of the shop was typical -- a kitchen (comprised of a few burners and a grill) that spilled out from the ground floor of someone's home onto the street, a few small tables and chairs along the street, and an extra bonus here, a lady squeezing fresh sugarcane juice right across the street! It couldn't have been better.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/vietnam_saigon_oct09-561.jpg\" alt=\"vietnam saigon Making fresh sugarcane juice\" title=\"vietnam saigon Making fresh sugarcane juice\" width=\"333\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7850\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Making fresh sugarcane juice\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We over-ordered of course, and out came dishes of small snails, large snails, clams, crab, even \u003cstrong>balut\u003c/strong>! \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For those unfamiliar, balut is a fertilized duck egg with a nearly-developed embryo inside that is boiled and then eaten out of the shell with a spoon. You heard right, a partial chick (please don't hate me). Since it was my first time trying this delicacy, I was advised not to look directly at it (kind of like that adage of not staring into the sun). The texture can be challenging if you're squeamish, and you can't help but look too closely, but the flavor was good. As expected, a combo of an egg and chicken, but all in one bite. A little dish of salt and pepper mixed with lemon juice added a nice kick of flavor, and of course, some herbage, coriander leaves.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That was probably the most exotic thing I tried on this trip, but the snails! Those may have been the best. Boiled first to cook through, then finished off in a wok, seared until some magical sauce evaporated and coated the shells. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/vietnam_saigon_oct09-587.jpg\" alt=\"vietnam saigon eating snails\" title=\"vietnam saigon eating snails\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7852\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Bliss\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The snails themselves were meaty and succulent, but the sauce, now that was truly extraordinary: a little creamy and cheesy, with a touch of sweetness, and a tinge of heat that played on our lips. It was caramelized into almost a crust on the shells. We unabashedly licked our fingers clean while still reaching for more. The flavor teased us as we chased after it, wanting to savor it, have more of it, freakin' bathe in it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/vietnam_saigon_oct09-465.jpg\" alt=\"vietnam saigon Hu Tiu Nam Vang, Tin Phuc\" title=\"vietnam saigon Hu Tiu Nam Vang, Tin Phuc\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7845\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Hu Tiu Nam Vang, Tin Phuc\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Place: Tin Phuc\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Dish:\u003c/strong> Hu Tiu Nam Vang (pronounced \"hoo tee-yoo nam vang\")\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Translation:\u003c/strong> Pork and Crab Noodle Soup\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Address:\u003c/strong> 16 Duong Dinh Nghe (cross street: Cu Xa Binh Thoi) - P.8, Q.11\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/vietnam_saigon_oct09-472.jpg\" alt=\"vietnam saigon Tin Phuc\" title=\"vietnam saigon Tin Phuc\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7847\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Tin Phuc\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tin Phuc is more of restaurant than actual street food, although, with its breezy architecture, you could technically drive right in if you really wanted to.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Regardless, it is delicious. Only one dish is served so you can't mess up the order: Hu Tiu Nam Vang. (In Cantonese we call it \"gum been fun.\") You can order it \"dry\" but the soup is so good that you probably won't want to.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Basically, hu tiu is a noodle soup similar to pho, but more seafood-based and with a light broth. Prior to this meal, I had never tasted it before, so I did some research on its origins. Vietnamese culinary expert \u003cstrong>Andrea Nguyen\u003c/strong> had much light to shed regarding this \u003ca href=\"http://vietworldkitchen.typepad.com/blog/2007/11/hu-tieu-nam-van.html\">addictive dish.\u003c/a> According to Andrea, \"At its core, hu tieu signals a Chinese-Southeast Asian style noodle soup made with a pork bone broth and no fish sauce.\" But, there are many riffs on it, one of which is the Nam Vang style, \"Nam Vang\" being the Vietnamese word for Phnom Penh (the capital of Cambodia). Thus, Vietnam's proximity to Cambodia resulted in this Cambodian-Chinese concoction.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/vietnam_saigon_oct09-468.jpg\" alt=\"vietnam saigon herbs\" title=\"vietnam saigon herbs\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7846\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Herbage\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tin Phuc's rendition of Hu Tiu Nam Vang is divine. The soup is phenomenal, sweet and rich, made from the stock of pork bones and crab shells. The angel-hair-thin opaque rice noodles have just the right amount of springy chew to them. And the toppings are generous portions of pork meat, tendon and heart, crab meat, and shrimp. Tear up handfuls of leafy Romaine, Chinese celery and flat Chinese chives, add some crunchy bean sprouts, a touch of chili pepper, and you good to go. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The result is soul-satisfying. Warm, comforting, full of umami, fresh and healthy feeling. I bet a bowl of this could cure a cold like nobody's business.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The best part? Lunch for 5 people here rolled up to a mere $9.75 USD.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/vietnam_saigon_oct09-598.jpg\" alt=\"vietnam saigon Street Scene\" title=\"vietnam saigon Street Scene\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7853\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Street Scene\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Back in September, Thy Tran wrote a great article on \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2009/09/01/beyond-festivals-street-food-actually-on-streets-and-sidewalks/\">Street Food Beyond Festivals\u003c/a> in which she compares the young street food culture in the U.S. to other places where it has been \"long embedded into their daily rhythms.\" Witnessing the street food culture of Saigon brought that alive for me. Daily rhythm is right, it seemed like everyone eats out all the time whether it’s having your morning coffee delivered to your front door from the coffee lady down the street, getting some fruit to-go from the number of fruit vendors rolling around, or popping a squat on a little plastic chair at a tea-party-sized table for dinner. Sure, the convenience, affordability, and quality of product are all great. But it is the daily human interaction, the chit chat, the sense of community that comes with it, that makes this daily rhythm so soothing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Nen Nha Dat (for Cha Gue)\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n91 Ha Ton Quyen (cross street: Tan Thanh) - P.15, Q.5\u003cbr>\nHo Chi Minh City, Vietnam\u003cbr>\nPhone: 0903380574 \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Oc Huong Pho Mai (for Snails)\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n37/3 Nguyen Cauh Chan - Q.1\u003cbr>\nHo Chi Minh City, Vietnam\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Tin Phuc (for Hu Tiu Nam Vang)\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n16 Duong Dinh Nghe (cross street: Cu Xa Binh Thoi) - P.8, Q.11\u003cbr>\nHo Chi Minh City, Vietnam\u003cbr>\nPhone: 3.9627977\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Lao Food in East Oakland",
"title": "Lao Food in East Oakland",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/10/papaya500.jpg\" alt=\"Green Papaya Delis namesake\" title=\"Green Papaya Delis namesake\" width=\"500\" height=\"385\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7688\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Green Papaya Deli's namesake. Photo by Rudy R.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In July, I was working on a feature article about Lao food in East Oakland for the food section of a major Bay Area daily newspaper. In very early August, a few weeks after I'd finished the first round of interviews, I found out that newspaper's food section was merging entirely with that of another large newspaper operated by the same company, gutting staff (and its already flimsy freelance budget) in a frantic cost-shearing maneuver. Since my piece addressed a unique ethnic community largely confined to a single neighborhood in one distinct part of Oakland--San Antonio--it wouldn't jive with the company's broad new regional focus. At least, that's what my freshly-canned editor told me when she delivered the bad news. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was deeply bummed--not just because I'd already logged a bunch of hours researching the article, but because the food--as well as the people I'd met, their stories, and the traditions they associated with what they enjoyed eating--seemed so deserving of attention. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I first became really curious about Lao food nearly two years ago, after a tasty meal at \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/champa-garden-oakland\">Champa Garden\u003c/a>, the somewhat venerable Lao restaurant on 8th Avenue east of Lake Merritt in \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/San_Antonio,_Oakland,_California\">San Antonio\u003c/a>--one of the most diverse neighborhoods in the Bay Area, home to close-knit populations of African-Americans, Latinos, and Asians in almost equal proportions. I tried to draw distinctions between its dominant flavors and those most prevalent in the more familiar cuisines of its Southeast Asian neighbors. Like Thai, Lao thrives on interplay between sour and spicy, crunchy and soft, and both cooked and raw ingredients. The effect however is different. Extreme tastes and textures--intense, bold, lush--somehow find lovely balance in the most homespun preparations, and the combinations feel wilder, more jarring. Truly bitter greens are tossed in barely sweet lightly-dressed salads with herbs and raw marinated fish. Crispy fried rice comes wrapped in sheets of iceberg lettuce with preserved pork bits, lime, and scallions peppered throughout. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With Champa Garden as my starting point, I began a gradual tour of Lao flavors in East Oakland. First, I visited \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/vientian-cafe-oakland\">Vientian Cafe\u003c/a>, a rough-hewn eatery situated a few blocks outside the San Antonio neighborhood, on a barren block of Allendale. The food was uniformly spectacular and stunningly inexpensive. Baked sausage with lemongrass, onion, and chiles--a thin, churro-like cylinder, dark-brown, crusty, and cracked on a bed of raw shredded cabbage--and kao piak, a noodle soup with chicken, nutty fried garlic, and pork blood, particularly stood out. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On several occasions, I lunched at \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/green-papaya-deli-oakland\">Green Papaya Deli\u003c/a>, a tiny storefront on International Boulevard at 2nd Ave. Cynthia Senephansiri is the owner; her mother Lily cooks. For 15 years, the family owned a video store renting and selling tapes and, later, dvds of Lao and Thai films. Its market was niche to begin with, and as people bought and rented movies less and less anyway, the store's business dwindled to a dangerously frail level. About a year-and-a-half ago, Cynthia had the idea to open a restaurant. In the dearth of Lao restaurants around town she saw an opportunity to bring authentic versions of the traditional Lao dishes her family loved to people who had never before encountered them. In the beginning she had no formal restaurant experience, but now Lily spends 7 days and nights a week behind the stove in the kitchen barely visible through the window behind the counter. From time to time, she pads into the tiny dining room to make sure customers are eating the food she sends out with satisfyingly palpable enthusiasm. Lily is small, and her voice is quiet, but her smile sparkles like few I have ever seen, dwarfing everything else in the room, engulfing diners in a luminous maternal aura as she murmurs fretfully about the cleanliness of their plates. I have \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2009/09/15/lunch-hour/\">already written about Green Papaya's otherworldy Lao-style chicken soup\u003c/a>, but Lily's papaya salad--vivid, shockingly hot, and pungent with a tamarind-laced dressing made-from-scratch--deserves a very special mention. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The first time I visited, I ate the salad with seven chiles and gently steamed at my corner table. The second time I came through, I tried it with twelve and felt, as I desperately seized fistfuls of heat-dampening sticky rice, as if my chest might explode if I dared to down another slippery forkful. According to Lily's nephew Ken, the restaurant's waiter, his aunt will add up to twenty for the most masochistic (and showy) of chile-fiends. Of course, he had to immediately assure me that I, being white and American, could always expect to receive considerably fewer chiles than I'd request. He meant that kindly, I think, but I did feel a twinge of disappointment. I had been proud to hang, at least for half a plate, with twelve, but my \"twelve,\" as it turned out, was actually more like \"six,\" my \"seven\" just a few. Ken showed me a massive bag of the mean-looking chiles, and I felt better. They were gnarled blue spikes, each only a third the size of my pinkie--sort of like wicked appendages to a knight's armor. I was even happier to learn my personal expectations for success exceeded Ken's. He chided me for trying to eat an entire order by myself, explaining that papaya salad, especially such a molten rendering, is meant to be shared amongst three or four hungry people, as one sweet, searing passage in a harmonious array of tastes, not a meal in and of itself, or even a snack through which a solitary and stubborn ignoramus should struggle. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After my second meal at Green Papaya, I met the family. Lily came to Oakland in 1981. She told me the exact date of her arrival without a moment's pause to recollect. She likes Oakland, especially the weather. The restaurant is practically in her backyard; its kitchen, she says, is hers. Assertive and business-oriented, Cynthia drew firm distinctions between Lao and Thai, the cuisine to which it's frequently compared, suggesting that Thai food in the United States tends to be marketed to American tastes, whereas Lao restaurants, far fewer in number, are usually direct extensions of home-cooking traditions. According to Cynthia, restaurants identifying as Lao tend to rep their homeland's cuisine more faithfully precisely because the cuisine has no successful Americanized tradition. Thai restaurants are immensely popular, with instantly recognizable dishes -- like tom yum and pad thai. For this reason, many Lao elect to operate Thai restaurants -- to attract customers. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I also met with April Kim, the program director of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.oacc.cc/\">Oakland Asian Cultural Center\u003c/a>, and Sokham Senthavilay, a Lao woman who has \u003ca href=\"http://clickblogappetit.blogspot.com/2008/06/laotian-cooking-class.html\">taught cooking classes\u003c/a> at the OACC on a few occasions. Sokham showed up with an adorable child in her arms -- perhaps a niece or a grandaughter. As the little girl sat perched on the table, staring me down calmly, her frilly dress cascading over the edge like a curtain, Sokham told her story. She left Laos in 1978. After a few months in jail and a stint at a camp in Thailand, she headed to the United States in 1980, first to Seattle, then to Texas, and finally to Oakland, along with many of her 15 siblings. She used to cook at a Thai restaurant in Oakland but couldn't stand the hours. I told her about the papaya salad mishap, and she laughed, saying that she understood. Even when you're sweating and crying, she said, you always want to eat more than you should -- because the heat makes you feel so good. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sokham believes home kitchens produce the best Lao food, and with obvious glee, described her weekend ritual in detail. Most Saturday mornings, she wakes up early and heads to the market. With her twelve brothers, sisters, and cousins helping, their own ever-expanding families milling around the house, she starts cooking at 10 a.m. and finishes by mid-afternoon: a full-blown banquet of larb, bamboo soup, papaya salad, grilled fish, and sticky rice accompanied by beer, Johnny Walker Black, and a kind of rice-derived moonshine called Lao Lao. Sokham lives around the corner from Green Papaya, but she's never been there. She rarely socializes or eats outside of her house. She agreed with Cynthia Senephansiri's claim about the scarcity of Lao restaurants. Though it's rarely advertised on menu, she added that some Thai restaurants staffed by Lao cooks can cook some dishes Lao-style if you order them that way -- like papaya salad, which she noted often tastes too sweet for her liking at Thai restaurants. She speculated Thai food might be more familiar to Americans because more Americans have been to Thailand and many more Thai immigrants have comfortably settled in this country. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Laos, Sokham explained, sits in the shadow of Thailand. With the end of the Second Indochina War in 1975, many Lao fled their country for fear of communist reprisals and, like Sokham, ended up in Thailand before finding their way here. Ken's grandfather was one of them too. In Laos, he had owned farms and houses, but after the war, the communist government redistributed all of his properties. Ken described his disappointment as vast and crushing. He went to Thailand and then to Cleveland, where he died after a year. From 1975 to 1996, the U.S. government resettled more than 250,000 Lao refugees in communities around the country, including an estimated 30,000 living in the Bay Area, many in East Oakland--where three modest restaurants stand as clear local evidence of Laos's gastronomic legacy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A month or so ago, I covered the \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.sfweekly.com/foodie/2009/09/laod_and_proud_lao_studies_ben.php\">Center for Lao Studies' First Annual Banquet\u003c/a> for the S.F. Weekly's online presence. In an email exchange following the event, the Center's executive director Dr. Vinya Sysamouth mentioned community members had petitioned Yelp to add a category for Lao food, and that Yelp had adamantly refused. Maybe, I wondered, because none of the three Lao-identified restaurants in the Bay Area limit themselves to serving Lao food alone. Vientian Cafe and Champa Garden offer some Vietnamese and Thai dishes. On Yelp, they're respectively identified as \"Thai\" and \"Vietnamese,\" and \"Thai\" and, curiously, \"Asian Fusion.\" Green Papaya Deli has a small Thai menu because, as Lily told me, she's concerned many Americans might not eat there unless they see at least a few dishes with which they're already familiar. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You can find the restaurant listed under \"Thai\" and \"Deli\" on Yelp.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "I first became really curious about Lao food nearly two years ago, after a tasty meal at Champa Garden, the somewhat venerable Lao restaurant on 8th Avenue east of Lake Merritt in San Antonio--one of the most diverse neighborhoods in the Bay Area, home to close-knit populations of African-Americans, Latinos, and Asians in almost equal proportions. I tried to draw distinctions between its dominant flavors and those most prevalent in the more familiar cuisines of its Southeast Asian neighbors. Like Thai, Lao thrives on interplay between sour and spicy, crunchy and soft, and both cooked and raw ingredients. The effect however is different. ",
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"description": "I first became really curious about Lao food nearly two years ago, after a tasty meal at Champa Garden, the somewhat venerable Lao restaurant on 8th Avenue east of Lake Merritt in San Antonio--one of the most diverse neighborhoods in the Bay Area, home to close-knit populations of African-Americans, Latinos, and Asians in almost equal proportions. I tried to draw distinctions between its dominant flavors and those most prevalent in the more familiar cuisines of its Southeast Asian neighbors. Like Thai, Lao thrives on interplay between sour and spicy, crunchy and soft, and both cooked and raw ingredients. The effect however is different. ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/10/papaya500.jpg\" alt=\"Green Papaya Delis namesake\" title=\"Green Papaya Delis namesake\" width=\"500\" height=\"385\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7688\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Green Papaya Deli's namesake. Photo by Rudy R.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In July, I was working on a feature article about Lao food in East Oakland for the food section of a major Bay Area daily newspaper. In very early August, a few weeks after I'd finished the first round of interviews, I found out that newspaper's food section was merging entirely with that of another large newspaper operated by the same company, gutting staff (and its already flimsy freelance budget) in a frantic cost-shearing maneuver. Since my piece addressed a unique ethnic community largely confined to a single neighborhood in one distinct part of Oakland--San Antonio--it wouldn't jive with the company's broad new regional focus. At least, that's what my freshly-canned editor told me when she delivered the bad news. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was deeply bummed--not just because I'd already logged a bunch of hours researching the article, but because the food--as well as the people I'd met, their stories, and the traditions they associated with what they enjoyed eating--seemed so deserving of attention. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I first became really curious about Lao food nearly two years ago, after a tasty meal at \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/champa-garden-oakland\">Champa Garden\u003c/a>, the somewhat venerable Lao restaurant on 8th Avenue east of Lake Merritt in \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/San_Antonio,_Oakland,_California\">San Antonio\u003c/a>--one of the most diverse neighborhoods in the Bay Area, home to close-knit populations of African-Americans, Latinos, and Asians in almost equal proportions. I tried to draw distinctions between its dominant flavors and those most prevalent in the more familiar cuisines of its Southeast Asian neighbors. Like Thai, Lao thrives on interplay between sour and spicy, crunchy and soft, and both cooked and raw ingredients. The effect however is different. Extreme tastes and textures--intense, bold, lush--somehow find lovely balance in the most homespun preparations, and the combinations feel wilder, more jarring. Truly bitter greens are tossed in barely sweet lightly-dressed salads with herbs and raw marinated fish. Crispy fried rice comes wrapped in sheets of iceberg lettuce with preserved pork bits, lime, and scallions peppered throughout. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With Champa Garden as my starting point, I began a gradual tour of Lao flavors in East Oakland. First, I visited \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/vientian-cafe-oakland\">Vientian Cafe\u003c/a>, a rough-hewn eatery situated a few blocks outside the San Antonio neighborhood, on a barren block of Allendale. The food was uniformly spectacular and stunningly inexpensive. Baked sausage with lemongrass, onion, and chiles--a thin, churro-like cylinder, dark-brown, crusty, and cracked on a bed of raw shredded cabbage--and kao piak, a noodle soup with chicken, nutty fried garlic, and pork blood, particularly stood out. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On several occasions, I lunched at \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/green-papaya-deli-oakland\">Green Papaya Deli\u003c/a>, a tiny storefront on International Boulevard at 2nd Ave. Cynthia Senephansiri is the owner; her mother Lily cooks. For 15 years, the family owned a video store renting and selling tapes and, later, dvds of Lao and Thai films. Its market was niche to begin with, and as people bought and rented movies less and less anyway, the store's business dwindled to a dangerously frail level. About a year-and-a-half ago, Cynthia had the idea to open a restaurant. In the dearth of Lao restaurants around town she saw an opportunity to bring authentic versions of the traditional Lao dishes her family loved to people who had never before encountered them. In the beginning she had no formal restaurant experience, but now Lily spends 7 days and nights a week behind the stove in the kitchen barely visible through the window behind the counter. From time to time, she pads into the tiny dining room to make sure customers are eating the food she sends out with satisfyingly palpable enthusiasm. Lily is small, and her voice is quiet, but her smile sparkles like few I have ever seen, dwarfing everything else in the room, engulfing diners in a luminous maternal aura as she murmurs fretfully about the cleanliness of their plates. I have \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2009/09/15/lunch-hour/\">already written about Green Papaya's otherworldy Lao-style chicken soup\u003c/a>, but Lily's papaya salad--vivid, shockingly hot, and pungent with a tamarind-laced dressing made-from-scratch--deserves a very special mention. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The first time I visited, I ate the salad with seven chiles and gently steamed at my corner table. The second time I came through, I tried it with twelve and felt, as I desperately seized fistfuls of heat-dampening sticky rice, as if my chest might explode if I dared to down another slippery forkful. According to Lily's nephew Ken, the restaurant's waiter, his aunt will add up to twenty for the most masochistic (and showy) of chile-fiends. Of course, he had to immediately assure me that I, being white and American, could always expect to receive considerably fewer chiles than I'd request. He meant that kindly, I think, but I did feel a twinge of disappointment. I had been proud to hang, at least for half a plate, with twelve, but my \"twelve,\" as it turned out, was actually more like \"six,\" my \"seven\" just a few. Ken showed me a massive bag of the mean-looking chiles, and I felt better. They were gnarled blue spikes, each only a third the size of my pinkie--sort of like wicked appendages to a knight's armor. I was even happier to learn my personal expectations for success exceeded Ken's. He chided me for trying to eat an entire order by myself, explaining that papaya salad, especially such a molten rendering, is meant to be shared amongst three or four hungry people, as one sweet, searing passage in a harmonious array of tastes, not a meal in and of itself, or even a snack through which a solitary and stubborn ignoramus should struggle. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After my second meal at Green Papaya, I met the family. Lily came to Oakland in 1981. She told me the exact date of her arrival without a moment's pause to recollect. She likes Oakland, especially the weather. The restaurant is practically in her backyard; its kitchen, she says, is hers. Assertive and business-oriented, Cynthia drew firm distinctions between Lao and Thai, the cuisine to which it's frequently compared, suggesting that Thai food in the United States tends to be marketed to American tastes, whereas Lao restaurants, far fewer in number, are usually direct extensions of home-cooking traditions. According to Cynthia, restaurants identifying as Lao tend to rep their homeland's cuisine more faithfully precisely because the cuisine has no successful Americanized tradition. Thai restaurants are immensely popular, with instantly recognizable dishes -- like tom yum and pad thai. For this reason, many Lao elect to operate Thai restaurants -- to attract customers. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I also met with April Kim, the program director of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.oacc.cc/\">Oakland Asian Cultural Center\u003c/a>, and Sokham Senthavilay, a Lao woman who has \u003ca href=\"http://clickblogappetit.blogspot.com/2008/06/laotian-cooking-class.html\">taught cooking classes\u003c/a> at the OACC on a few occasions. Sokham showed up with an adorable child in her arms -- perhaps a niece or a grandaughter. As the little girl sat perched on the table, staring me down calmly, her frilly dress cascading over the edge like a curtain, Sokham told her story. She left Laos in 1978. After a few months in jail and a stint at a camp in Thailand, she headed to the United States in 1980, first to Seattle, then to Texas, and finally to Oakland, along with many of her 15 siblings. She used to cook at a Thai restaurant in Oakland but couldn't stand the hours. I told her about the papaya salad mishap, and she laughed, saying that she understood. Even when you're sweating and crying, she said, you always want to eat more than you should -- because the heat makes you feel so good. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sokham believes home kitchens produce the best Lao food, and with obvious glee, described her weekend ritual in detail. Most Saturday mornings, she wakes up early and heads to the market. With her twelve brothers, sisters, and cousins helping, their own ever-expanding families milling around the house, she starts cooking at 10 a.m. and finishes by mid-afternoon: a full-blown banquet of larb, bamboo soup, papaya salad, grilled fish, and sticky rice accompanied by beer, Johnny Walker Black, and a kind of rice-derived moonshine called Lao Lao. Sokham lives around the corner from Green Papaya, but she's never been there. She rarely socializes or eats outside of her house. She agreed with Cynthia Senephansiri's claim about the scarcity of Lao restaurants. Though it's rarely advertised on menu, she added that some Thai restaurants staffed by Lao cooks can cook some dishes Lao-style if you order them that way -- like papaya salad, which she noted often tastes too sweet for her liking at Thai restaurants. She speculated Thai food might be more familiar to Americans because more Americans have been to Thailand and many more Thai immigrants have comfortably settled in this country. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Laos, Sokham explained, sits in the shadow of Thailand. With the end of the Second Indochina War in 1975, many Lao fled their country for fear of communist reprisals and, like Sokham, ended up in Thailand before finding their way here. Ken's grandfather was one of them too. In Laos, he had owned farms and houses, but after the war, the communist government redistributed all of his properties. Ken described his disappointment as vast and crushing. He went to Thailand and then to Cleveland, where he died after a year. From 1975 to 1996, the U.S. government resettled more than 250,000 Lao refugees in communities around the country, including an estimated 30,000 living in the Bay Area, many in East Oakland--where three modest restaurants stand as clear local evidence of Laos's gastronomic legacy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A month or so ago, I covered the \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.sfweekly.com/foodie/2009/09/laod_and_proud_lao_studies_ben.php\">Center for Lao Studies' First Annual Banquet\u003c/a> for the S.F. Weekly's online presence. In an email exchange following the event, the Center's executive director Dr. Vinya Sysamouth mentioned community members had petitioned Yelp to add a category for Lao food, and that Yelp had adamantly refused. Maybe, I wondered, because none of the three Lao-identified restaurants in the Bay Area limit themselves to serving Lao food alone. Vientian Cafe and Champa Garden offer some Vietnamese and Thai dishes. On Yelp, they're respectively identified as \"Thai\" and \"Vietnamese,\" and \"Thai\" and, curiously, \"Asian Fusion.\" Green Papaya Deli has a small Thai menu because, as Lily told me, she's concerned many Americans might not eat there unless they see at least a few dishes with which they're already familiar. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You can find the restaurant listed under \"Thai\" and \"Deli\" on Yelp.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Stretching Your Cooking Comfort Zone",
"title": "Stretching Your Cooking Comfort Zone",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/10/vietnamese-style-halibut.jpg\" alt=\"vietnamese-style halibut\" title=\"vietnamese-style halibut\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-7422\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Let's face it. Leaving one's comfort zone is intimidating at best and often downright scary. It doesn't matter what you're doing -- traveling to a new place, trying a different career, or cooking food from a different culture -- entering into the realm of the unknown can sometimes seem like more trouble than it's worth. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is why I avoided cooking any type of Asian food for years. My childhood training in my mother's Italian kitchen made dishes like prosciutto pie, homemade ricotta cheese, and handmade pasta seem easy compared to delving into the unknowns of curries and fish sauce. I preferred sticking with olive oil instead of trying peanut oil. It didn't help that I never even tried real Chinese food until I was in college. When I was a kid, Chinese food equaled Chow Mein Night, where the chow mein came out of a can and was served with Uncle Ben's minute rice -- mom kept the arborio for risotto and rice balls. I loved Chow Mein Night mostly because we were allowed to eat our dinner on trays in the living room while watching TV, but was always left feeling slightly queasy at the mass of baby shrimp and stringy vegetables on my plate. (My friend Shirley, on the other hand, grew up in an alternate Korean universe, where they would occasionally have Italian night. This meant her mother would cover the kitchen table with a red-checked tablecloth and serve spaghetti with jarred marinara sauce on top. We were destined to be friends.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yet once I was introduced to Asian cuisines, they topped my list of favorite foods. I distinctly remember eagerly trying hot and sour soup for the first time. I was in a little strip mall restaurant in Goleta, a town just outside Santa Barbara where I went to school. I was fascinated with the lovely shapes of the tree ear mushrooms and couldn't get enough of the mixture of vinegar and black pepper. And then there was the Kung Pao, General Tso and so much else, the flavors waking up taste buds I never knew I had. It was all very tame stuff as far as Chinese food goes, but the experience was enchanting and completely eye opening to me. I didn’t explore Thai, Korean, Japanese or Vietnamese foods until after college when I lived in L.A. Again I started with docile dishes, but soon graduated to sucking shrimp heads that had been cooked in spicy sauces. Yum.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But as much as I came to love eating all types of dumplings, savory noodles, and curries, I never really tried my hand at cooking anything more basic than stir-fry until after I had my kids nine years ago. By this time I realized that making dumplings was a lot like making raviolis, and simmering Asian sauces was no more difficult than the multitude of Italian dishes I had made over and over. So I was excited to receive a copy of \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Williams-Sonoma-Food-Made-Fast-Asian/dp/0848731484/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1255485471&sr=8-1\">Food Made Fast Asian\u003c/a>\u003c/em> when I was working on some Williams-Sonoma books. Inside were easy instructions for making everything from dry-fried string beans with pork to Thai green curry shrimp and lemongrass pork. After trying a few dishes out on my family, I began to feel more confident using fish sauce, hoisin, coconut milk, and peanut oil. I then branched out and tried Asian recipes from other sources, and finally started to experiment on my own. It took a while, but I finally gained enough confidence to vary ingredients and spices to suit my family's tastes instead of blindly trusting unknown and untried recipes each time. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Following is a dish I created one day when I had fresh Pacific Halibut and a hankering for something made with fish sauce and lime juice. I wanted some crunch so coated my marinated fish in corn starch and then fried until crispy. To add extra flavor, I combined soy sauce, fish sauce and lime with a dash of sugar and then simmered the already-cooked fish in it. If your family can handle some heat, I recommend adding some chile paste to the mix. The dish is simple and uncomplicated to make and an easy way to work in some fish sauce if you've never tried it before. I call the dish \"Vietnamese-style\" simply because fish sauce and lime are often used in that country's recipes. But let's be serious, as you've probably guessed by now, I am in no way an expert on Vietnamese cooking -- or any Asian cuisine for that matter. But we all have to start somewhere. I am unabashedly in love with Asian foods and eager to make them at home, much as my friend Shirley, who was raised on kimchi, now makes some fantastic pasta dishes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>How about you? Still stuck in your cooking comfort zone or have you stretched your repertoire and tried dishes that were once foreign? I'd love to hear some stories.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/10/simmering-your-fish.jpg\" alt=\"simmering your fish\" title=\"simmering your fish\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-7423\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Vietnamese-style Crispy Halibut\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Serves:\u003c/strong> 4 people\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Although Pacific Halibut works great in this recipe, feel free to substitute another type of fish fillet. Almost anything should work, including shrimp or scallops.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Marinade\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 onion\u003cbr>\n2 Tbsp ginger\u003cbr>\n2 cloves garlic\u003cbr>\n1 tsp soy sauce\u003cbr>\n1/2 tsp fish sauce\u003cbr>\n1 tsp water\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Crispy Fish\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 lbs Pacific halibut cut into fillets\u003cbr>\n1/2 cup corn starch\u003cbr>\n2 Tbsp vegetable oil\u003cbr>\n1 tsp sesame oil (optional)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Finishing Sauce\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1 Tbsp soy sauce\u003cbr>\n1 tsp fish sauce\u003cbr>\n1 tsp fresh lime juice\u003cbr>\n1 tsp water\u003cbr>\n1/2 tsp sugar\u003cbr>\nchile paste to taste (optional)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1. Puree the onion, ginger and garlic cloves for the marinade and then mix in the soy sauce, fish sauce and water.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Cover halibut with the marinade and refrigerate for at least one hour. When ready to cook, scrape the marinade from the fish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Heat a large pan until it's hot and then add 2 Tbsp vegetable oil plus 1 tsp sesame oil.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Gently coat each halibut fillet with corn starch and then lay in the hot oil. Fry for 2-4 minutes on each side (depending on the thickness of your fillets) and then turn. Cook the other side.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5. In a separate pan, heat the finishing sauce ingredients until everything is combined and the sugar has disolved. Turn off heat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6. When all fillets have been cooked through, lay the fish in the pan with the finishing sauce mixture, turning the burner onto medium heat. Gently sauté the fish in the sauce for about 30 seconds on each side and then serve.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>7. Serve with steamed or fried rice.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Let's face it. Leaving one's comfort zone is intimidating at best and often downright scary. It doesn't matter what you're doing -- traveling to a new place, trying a different career, or cooking food from a different culture -- entering into the realm of the unknown can sometimes seem like more trouble than it's worth. How about you? Still stuck in your cooking comfort zone or have you stretched your repertoire and tried dishes that were once foreign? I'd love to hear some stories.\r\n\r\nRecipe for Vietnamese-style Crispy Halibut included.",
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"description": "Let's face it. Leaving one's comfort zone is intimidating at best and often downright scary. It doesn't matter what you're doing -- traveling to a new place, trying a different career, or cooking food from a different culture -- entering into the realm of the unknown can sometimes seem like more trouble than it's worth. How about you? Still stuck in your cooking comfort zone or have you stretched your repertoire and tried dishes that were once foreign? I'd love to hear some stories.\r\n\r\nRecipe for Vietnamese-style Crispy Halibut included.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/10/vietnamese-style-halibut.jpg\" alt=\"vietnamese-style halibut\" title=\"vietnamese-style halibut\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-7422\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Let's face it. Leaving one's comfort zone is intimidating at best and often downright scary. It doesn't matter what you're doing -- traveling to a new place, trying a different career, or cooking food from a different culture -- entering into the realm of the unknown can sometimes seem like more trouble than it's worth. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is why I avoided cooking any type of Asian food for years. My childhood training in my mother's Italian kitchen made dishes like prosciutto pie, homemade ricotta cheese, and handmade pasta seem easy compared to delving into the unknowns of curries and fish sauce. I preferred sticking with olive oil instead of trying peanut oil. It didn't help that I never even tried real Chinese food until I was in college. When I was a kid, Chinese food equaled Chow Mein Night, where the chow mein came out of a can and was served with Uncle Ben's minute rice -- mom kept the arborio for risotto and rice balls. I loved Chow Mein Night mostly because we were allowed to eat our dinner on trays in the living room while watching TV, but was always left feeling slightly queasy at the mass of baby shrimp and stringy vegetables on my plate. (My friend Shirley, on the other hand, grew up in an alternate Korean universe, where they would occasionally have Italian night. This meant her mother would cover the kitchen table with a red-checked tablecloth and serve spaghetti with jarred marinara sauce on top. We were destined to be friends.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yet once I was introduced to Asian cuisines, they topped my list of favorite foods. I distinctly remember eagerly trying hot and sour soup for the first time. I was in a little strip mall restaurant in Goleta, a town just outside Santa Barbara where I went to school. I was fascinated with the lovely shapes of the tree ear mushrooms and couldn't get enough of the mixture of vinegar and black pepper. And then there was the Kung Pao, General Tso and so much else, the flavors waking up taste buds I never knew I had. It was all very tame stuff as far as Chinese food goes, but the experience was enchanting and completely eye opening to me. I didn’t explore Thai, Korean, Japanese or Vietnamese foods until after college when I lived in L.A. Again I started with docile dishes, but soon graduated to sucking shrimp heads that had been cooked in spicy sauces. Yum.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But as much as I came to love eating all types of dumplings, savory noodles, and curries, I never really tried my hand at cooking anything more basic than stir-fry until after I had my kids nine years ago. By this time I realized that making dumplings was a lot like making raviolis, and simmering Asian sauces was no more difficult than the multitude of Italian dishes I had made over and over. So I was excited to receive a copy of \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Williams-Sonoma-Food-Made-Fast-Asian/dp/0848731484/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1255485471&sr=8-1\">Food Made Fast Asian\u003c/a>\u003c/em> when I was working on some Williams-Sonoma books. Inside were easy instructions for making everything from dry-fried string beans with pork to Thai green curry shrimp and lemongrass pork. After trying a few dishes out on my family, I began to feel more confident using fish sauce, hoisin, coconut milk, and peanut oil. I then branched out and tried Asian recipes from other sources, and finally started to experiment on my own. It took a while, but I finally gained enough confidence to vary ingredients and spices to suit my family's tastes instead of blindly trusting unknown and untried recipes each time. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Following is a dish I created one day when I had fresh Pacific Halibut and a hankering for something made with fish sauce and lime juice. I wanted some crunch so coated my marinated fish in corn starch and then fried until crispy. To add extra flavor, I combined soy sauce, fish sauce and lime with a dash of sugar and then simmered the already-cooked fish in it. If your family can handle some heat, I recommend adding some chile paste to the mix. The dish is simple and uncomplicated to make and an easy way to work in some fish sauce if you've never tried it before. I call the dish \"Vietnamese-style\" simply because fish sauce and lime are often used in that country's recipes. But let's be serious, as you've probably guessed by now, I am in no way an expert on Vietnamese cooking -- or any Asian cuisine for that matter. But we all have to start somewhere. I am unabashedly in love with Asian foods and eager to make them at home, much as my friend Shirley, who was raised on kimchi, now makes some fantastic pasta dishes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>How about you? Still stuck in your cooking comfort zone or have you stretched your repertoire and tried dishes that were once foreign? I'd love to hear some stories.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/10/simmering-your-fish.jpg\" alt=\"simmering your fish\" title=\"simmering your fish\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-7423\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Vietnamese-style Crispy Halibut\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Serves:\u003c/strong> 4 people\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Although Pacific Halibut works great in this recipe, feel free to substitute another type of fish fillet. Almost anything should work, including shrimp or scallops.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Marinade\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 onion\u003cbr>\n2 Tbsp ginger\u003cbr>\n2 cloves garlic\u003cbr>\n1 tsp soy sauce\u003cbr>\n1/2 tsp fish sauce\u003cbr>\n1 tsp water\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Crispy Fish\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 lbs Pacific halibut cut into fillets\u003cbr>\n1/2 cup corn starch\u003cbr>\n2 Tbsp vegetable oil\u003cbr>\n1 tsp sesame oil (optional)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Finishing Sauce\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1 Tbsp soy sauce\u003cbr>\n1 tsp fish sauce\u003cbr>\n1 tsp fresh lime juice\u003cbr>\n1 tsp water\u003cbr>\n1/2 tsp sugar\u003cbr>\nchile paste to taste (optional)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1. Puree the onion, ginger and garlic cloves for the marinade and then mix in the soy sauce, fish sauce and water.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Cover halibut with the marinade and refrigerate for at least one hour. When ready to cook, scrape the marinade from the fish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Heat a large pan until it's hot and then add 2 Tbsp vegetable oil plus 1 tsp sesame oil.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Gently coat each halibut fillet with corn starch and then lay in the hot oil. Fry for 2-4 minutes on each side (depending on the thickness of your fillets) and then turn. Cook the other side.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5. In a separate pan, heat the finishing sauce ingredients until everything is combined and the sugar has disolved. Turn off heat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6. When all fillets have been cooked through, lay the fish in the pan with the finishing sauce mixture, turning the burner onto medium heat. Gently sauté the fish in the sauce for about 30 seconds on each side and then serve.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>7. Serve with steamed or fried rice.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp> You know how that lovely yellow curry served up at your favorite hole-in-the-wall Indian restaurant turns your napkin, the tips of your fingers, even your plate completely yellow? Congratulations, you have had a swift, yet definitive introduction to turmeric.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Turmeric has been turning everything yellow for eons. Originally it was not used as a spice for cooking, but as a dye, primarily for coloring holy robes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/turmeric-01.jpg\" alt=\"turmeric\" title=\"turmeric\" width=\"500\" height=\"667\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6391\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Turmeric\">Turmeric\u003c/a> has been mentioned in the \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vedas\">Vedas\u003c/a>, the ancient Hindu sacred texts. It was associated with purity and cleansing. Even today, orthodox Hindu households will use turmeric water to purify everything from themselves, to objects in the house, to the house itself before a religious event. Along the same lines, Hindu brides and bridegrooms have a ceremony called ʻhaldiʼ (the Hindi word for turmeric and also the name of the \u003ca href=\"http://images.google.com/images?hl=en&client=firefox-a&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&q=haldi+ceremony&um=1&ie=UTF-8&ei=KKaDSv6rJZLUsgP54cykBw&sa=X&oi=image_result_group&ct=title&resnum=4\">ceremony\u003c/a>), just before their wedding day. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This yellow-orange rhizome (that is a relative of ginger) is also credited with tons of medicinal uses. It is used as an antiseptic and an anti-inflammatory agent. When a classmate in school cut her finger during a cooking class, a well-meaning friend promptly threw some turmeric on her finger. Good move as far as providing an antiseptic, but bad for the bleeding. As it turns out, turmeric is also an \u003ca href=\"http://www.vrp.com/articles.aspx?ProdID=art1170&zTYPE=2\">anti-coagulant\u003c/a>. Studies show that curcumin, the main flavoring compound in turmeric, is also an anti-oxidant. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Turmeric imparts a rich, ochre yellow to anything it is added to. The mustard so popular on hot dogs gets its color and part of its distinctive flavor from this golden spice. Turmeric is famous for its inclusion in curry powders. Marco Polo noted the following about turmeric when he came across it in 1280: “There is also a vegetable which has all the properties of true saffron, as well the smell and the color, and yet it is not really saffron.” This isnʼt entirely true. Turmeric and saffron can both turn things yellow. The similarity ends there. Saffron is fragrant and enchanting, its flavor elevated and floral. Turmeric smells a bit acrid; Its flavor is earthy, reminiscent of ginger and mustard. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Turmeric in Indian cooking is used primarily in its dry, ground form. Just a small amount is more than enough to convey the ginger-peppery flavor. In some parts of India, turmeric leaves are used to wrap dumplings before steaming. There is a milder flavor and flowery aspect associated with the leaves that is different from the stem from which the powdered spice is derived. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Forming the base on which several dishes can be built, turmeric, along with asafoetida and mustard seeds, are featured in countless recipes from the Indian sub-continent. Lentils, vegetables, meat and fish, all do well with a seasoning of turmeric. One of the simplest dishes featuring turmeric is also the most satisfying. Called \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kadhi\">kadhi\u003c/a>, different regions of India have their own versions; it tends to have a thinner consistency in the south as compared to the north. It can be plain or made with chickpea dumplings (pakoras).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/turmeric-02.jpg\" alt=\"buttermilk kadhi\" title=\"buttermilk kadhi\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6395\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Buttermilk Kadhi \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Serves:\u003c/strong> 3-4 \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n2 cups buttermilk\u003cbr>\n1/2 cup chickpea flour (besan)\u003cbr>\n1/3 tsp asafoetida\u003cbr>\n1/4 tsp turmeric\u003cbr>\n3-4 green chillies, split lengthwise (Serrano or Thai chillies)\u003cbr>\n1/2 tsp grated fresh ginger\u003cbr>\n1 tsp sugar\u003cbr>\nSalt to taste\u003cbr>\nCilantro for garnish \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For seasoning:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n2 tbsp clarified butter (ghee) or canola oil\u003cbr>\n5-6 curry leaves\u003cbr>\n1 tsp asafoetida\u003cbr>\n1 tsp cumin \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. In a pot, combine the buttermilk, chickpea flour and 2 cups of water. Stir together to dissolve any lumps. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Add sugar, salt, turmeric and asafoetida and mix.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Move the pot onto the stove on medium high heat and bring the mixture slowly to a boil, stirring constantly. Add more water to thin it down if the mixture is still too thick. (The ideal consistency would be like tomato soup). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. When the buttermilk comes to a boil, add the green chillies and ginger. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5. In a separate small pan, heat the ghee or oil to prepare the seasoning. Add mustard seeds (which should begin to splutter if the oil is hot enough) followed by cumin, asafoetida and curry leaves. Continue to heat gently for a few seconds to season the oil or ghee. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6. Pour the spiced oil into the buttermilk mixture. Stir everything to incorporate. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Garnish with some cilantro and serve.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Notes: \u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nKeep stirring the mixture as it starts to boil to prevent the buttermilk from curdling and separating. Once it has reached a boil, the thickening of the chickpea flour keeps the ingredients emulsified. Though oil can be used here, try and use \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ghee\">ghee\u003c/a>. There is a voluptuousness of flavor that ghee brings to the dish. Also, if using oil, make sure it is neutral tasting like canola or peanut oil. An oil like olive oil tastes too strong and would disrupt the other flavors. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Though traditionally served on steamed rice, kadhi can also be served with \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chapati\">chapatis\u003c/a> or enjoyed just by itself. It is rare to find this dish in restaurants. This is home-cooking at its most basic. You could try variations by including some carrots or peas in it. Serve with rice and an Indian spiced \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Indian_pickle\">pickle\u003c/a> or \u003ca href=\"http://www.geocities.com/rananegro/papad.html\">papad\u003c/a>, to create a simple and nutritious Indian comfort food dish. \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": " You know how that lovely yellow curry served up at your favorite hole-in-the-wall Indian restaurant turns your napkin, the tips of your fingers, even your plate completely yellow? Congratulations, you have had a swift, yet definitive introduction to turmeric.\r\n\r\nTurmeric has been turning everything yellow for eons. Originally it was not used as a spice for cooking, but as a dye, primarily for coloring holy robes. ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp> You know how that lovely yellow curry served up at your favorite hole-in-the-wall Indian restaurant turns your napkin, the tips of your fingers, even your plate completely yellow? Congratulations, you have had a swift, yet definitive introduction to turmeric.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Turmeric has been turning everything yellow for eons. Originally it was not used as a spice for cooking, but as a dye, primarily for coloring holy robes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/turmeric-01.jpg\" alt=\"turmeric\" title=\"turmeric\" width=\"500\" height=\"667\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6391\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Turmeric\">Turmeric\u003c/a> has been mentioned in the \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vedas\">Vedas\u003c/a>, the ancient Hindu sacred texts. It was associated with purity and cleansing. Even today, orthodox Hindu households will use turmeric water to purify everything from themselves, to objects in the house, to the house itself before a religious event. Along the same lines, Hindu brides and bridegrooms have a ceremony called ʻhaldiʼ (the Hindi word for turmeric and also the name of the \u003ca href=\"http://images.google.com/images?hl=en&client=firefox-a&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&q=haldi+ceremony&um=1&ie=UTF-8&ei=KKaDSv6rJZLUsgP54cykBw&sa=X&oi=image_result_group&ct=title&resnum=4\">ceremony\u003c/a>), just before their wedding day. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This yellow-orange rhizome (that is a relative of ginger) is also credited with tons of medicinal uses. It is used as an antiseptic and an anti-inflammatory agent. When a classmate in school cut her finger during a cooking class, a well-meaning friend promptly threw some turmeric on her finger. Good move as far as providing an antiseptic, but bad for the bleeding. As it turns out, turmeric is also an \u003ca href=\"http://www.vrp.com/articles.aspx?ProdID=art1170&zTYPE=2\">anti-coagulant\u003c/a>. Studies show that curcumin, the main flavoring compound in turmeric, is also an anti-oxidant. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Turmeric imparts a rich, ochre yellow to anything it is added to. The mustard so popular on hot dogs gets its color and part of its distinctive flavor from this golden spice. Turmeric is famous for its inclusion in curry powders. Marco Polo noted the following about turmeric when he came across it in 1280: “There is also a vegetable which has all the properties of true saffron, as well the smell and the color, and yet it is not really saffron.” This isnʼt entirely true. Turmeric and saffron can both turn things yellow. The similarity ends there. Saffron is fragrant and enchanting, its flavor elevated and floral. Turmeric smells a bit acrid; Its flavor is earthy, reminiscent of ginger and mustard. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Turmeric in Indian cooking is used primarily in its dry, ground form. Just a small amount is more than enough to convey the ginger-peppery flavor. In some parts of India, turmeric leaves are used to wrap dumplings before steaming. There is a milder flavor and flowery aspect associated with the leaves that is different from the stem from which the powdered spice is derived. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Forming the base on which several dishes can be built, turmeric, along with asafoetida and mustard seeds, are featured in countless recipes from the Indian sub-continent. Lentils, vegetables, meat and fish, all do well with a seasoning of turmeric. One of the simplest dishes featuring turmeric is also the most satisfying. Called \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kadhi\">kadhi\u003c/a>, different regions of India have their own versions; it tends to have a thinner consistency in the south as compared to the north. It can be plain or made with chickpea dumplings (pakoras).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/turmeric-02.jpg\" alt=\"buttermilk kadhi\" title=\"buttermilk kadhi\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6395\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Buttermilk Kadhi \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Serves:\u003c/strong> 3-4 \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n2 cups buttermilk\u003cbr>\n1/2 cup chickpea flour (besan)\u003cbr>\n1/3 tsp asafoetida\u003cbr>\n1/4 tsp turmeric\u003cbr>\n3-4 green chillies, split lengthwise (Serrano or Thai chillies)\u003cbr>\n1/2 tsp grated fresh ginger\u003cbr>\n1 tsp sugar\u003cbr>\nSalt to taste\u003cbr>\nCilantro for garnish \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For seasoning:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n2 tbsp clarified butter (ghee) or canola oil\u003cbr>\n5-6 curry leaves\u003cbr>\n1 tsp asafoetida\u003cbr>\n1 tsp cumin \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. In a pot, combine the buttermilk, chickpea flour and 2 cups of water. Stir together to dissolve any lumps. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Add sugar, salt, turmeric and asafoetida and mix.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Move the pot onto the stove on medium high heat and bring the mixture slowly to a boil, stirring constantly. Add more water to thin it down if the mixture is still too thick. (The ideal consistency would be like tomato soup). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. When the buttermilk comes to a boil, add the green chillies and ginger. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5. In a separate small pan, heat the ghee or oil to prepare the seasoning. Add mustard seeds (which should begin to splutter if the oil is hot enough) followed by cumin, asafoetida and curry leaves. Continue to heat gently for a few seconds to season the oil or ghee. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6. Pour the spiced oil into the buttermilk mixture. Stir everything to incorporate. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Garnish with some cilantro and serve.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Notes: \u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nKeep stirring the mixture as it starts to boil to prevent the buttermilk from curdling and separating. Once it has reached a boil, the thickening of the chickpea flour keeps the ingredients emulsified. Though oil can be used here, try and use \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ghee\">ghee\u003c/a>. There is a voluptuousness of flavor that ghee brings to the dish. Also, if using oil, make sure it is neutral tasting like canola or peanut oil. An oil like olive oil tastes too strong and would disrupt the other flavors. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Though traditionally served on steamed rice, kadhi can also be served with \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chapati\">chapatis\u003c/a> or enjoyed just by itself. It is rare to find this dish in restaurants. This is home-cooking at its most basic. You could try variations by including some carrots or peas in it. Serve with rice and an Indian spiced \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Indian_pickle\">pickle\u003c/a> or \u003ca href=\"http://www.geocities.com/rananegro/papad.html\">papad\u003c/a>, to create a simple and nutritious Indian comfort food dish. \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Manivanh: Larb is Real",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/manivanh500.jpg\" alt=\"Manivanh Thai Restaurant\" title=\"Manivanh Thai Restaurant\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6338\">\u003cbr>\nFor five years now, Manivanh, a smallish place on 24th Street near Hampshire, has been one of my very favorite neighborhood restaurants in town. It's a completely unremarkable-looking Thai joint unceremoniously dumped at the grimiest edge of the Mission District, out of step with the strip's bevy of taquerias, hair salons, and, more recently, art galleries and hipster donut stands. For three years, I lived two blocks away, not far from 24th and Utah, where \u003ca href=\"http://www.jacksclubsf.com/\">Jack's Club\u003c/a> cheerfully presides over the corner. Manivanh holds just over a dozen tables, half of them empty most nights. The servers frequently look as fried as Krispy Kremes, their eyes distant and glazed. Between orders, they crane their necks to stare up at the television hovering above the counter. One afternoon, when all the area liquor stores were closed for a holiday, the host sold me a few beers to-go without so much as a blink. Manivanh is not a hole-in-the-wall, some Bourdanian treasure where fears of gastrointestinal trauma accompany each tasty bite. The interior is clean and warm, even pleasant. The neighborhood is fine, even though the 24th Street drunks' hacking coughs rattle through the window panes and swaying grocery cart barges skitter along the sidewalk outside. Satay and pad thai don't spark the excitement food-obsessed city residents work up over tacos. Everyone has a favorite Thai lunch place socked away somewhere -- the stuff of cheap lunch specials and coconut-creamed ice teas in tall plastic cups. Manivanh is a true find, unusual precisely because it's so good yet so relentlessly unexceptional in its design and scope, a regular, everyday restaurant without a whiff of marketing mojo and no rugged street food cred. Few would think to sniff it out and even fewer would bother writing about it, but I beseech you all the same to discover it, to walk down 24th Street until you can clearly hear the hum and screech of 101. Look to your left, see the sign, sit down, and order the larb-ped.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/larb400.jpg\" alt=\"Larb\" title=\"Larb\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6339\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Isn't it larb-ly?\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Larb is not a sludge-metal band from Florida or a faintly embarrassing medical condition. Larb may actually be those things as well, but the larbs I know first-hand are meat salads: fish sauce-y melanges in innumerable lovely variations, popular throughout Laos as well as Thailand. Refreshing and bold, Manivanh's larb-ped -- minced duck, lettuce, mint, and red onion laced with a chili-flecked lemon dressing -- is heady, almost druggy in its deliciousness, unsettlingly, crazily flavorful -- a sweet, benevolent \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Oz2jN87jIA\">Klaus Kinski\u003c/a> on the palette. In the past four months, I've taken three different groups of people to Manivanh, and every single neophyte has gone batty for this minor miracle of taste and texture. I wandered down with a friend on the eve of his flight back to Philadelphia and he, upon spooning up the last bit, wondered out-loud if he could pack a few orders to bring back to the city of brotherly love. \"The duck -- it's like bacon, except somehow better,\" another friend remarked on the night of his conversion, reaching for a third helping, unsubtly trying to snag more than his fair share of the chewy, crispy bits. Manivanh's \u003ca href=\"http://sanfrancisco.menupages.com/restaurants/manivanh-thai/\">menu\u003c/a> beckons with many very good things, like grilled pork, chicken with chiles, onion, and fresh basil, and fried bean cake with cashews and roasted curry paste. Yet this one dish -- the transcendent larb-ped -- sends the restaurant over the top, searing it into heart and memory. Again and again, I recommend Manivanh to anyone interested -- because I want others to know it and cherish it as well.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Still, a few weeks ago, in bed, watching the long-awaited \"No Reservations: San Francisco\" on my laptop, I was happy not to see forkfuls of that fine ducky goodness disappearing into \u003ca href=\"http://www.chickenandcheese.org/jonellblog/uploaded_images/jody-bourdain-799684.jpg\">Anthony Bourdain\u003c/a>'s gaping maw. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Over the course of that episode, he painted a broad strokes portrait of the San Francisco he wanted to hate, a city where the good stuff has to be pried out from beneath sheet-rock layers of weak Chez Panisse-y silliness. It's a pretty cool town, he seemed to say, so long as you keep it real among the hordes of smug, self-righteous yoga mat people telling you how to eat -- in his mind, villains more onerous than greedy landlords, creeps, loud-talking Muni lunatics, and fickle fault-lines. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>His pal \u003ca href=\"http://anthony-bourdain-blog.travelchannel.com/read/romania-what-the-hell-happened\">Zamir's meltdown in Romania\u003c/a>, however bizarre and mortifying, was, as Bourdain might intone on a clips show voice-over, good television. Making fun of vegetarians in San Francisco is not. The tall, gray host is usually much more insightful than he was here, using food as a trusty lens through which to respectfully experience the ways people live around the world. He likes delving into the preposterous, the campy, and the down-and-dirty. When it comes to eating on camera, \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NWSvv7hmWSU\">fried squeazel\u003c/a>, pig's eyes, chicken asses, and seven-pound tortas are his ripe texts, ideal, semi-shocking stuff he can stretch into funny, alcohol-soaked, highly watchable lessons of cultural interest.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A pedestrian pleasure such as Manivanh wouldn't interest Bourdain, at least for the sake of his show. For that, I am thankful. I like my larb line-less, my beloved local gems broadcasted via whispers, not ear-splitting bellows from some perch on Foodie Mountain where he sits every Monday, leather-jacketed, hung-over, racked with indigestion, clutching his megaphone. \u003ca href=\"http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/643772\">That's It\u003c/a>, the deli with the seven-pound torta, sits a block away from where I currently live. One day, it was my corner store, and, the next, I had to squeeze through a mob just to get a tall can from the cooler in the back. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It may not make for good television, but you can learn a lot about the way we live from something so mundane as a neighborhood restaurant and its way with one dish -- maybe not from Manivanh specifically, but from establishments like it. In my reality, of which I am, of course, captain, Manivanh serves the best Thai food in the city. The rest of the world doesn't have to agree. Manivanh's \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/manivanh-thai-restaurant-san-francisco\">Yelp reviews\u003c/a> are high, four stars, on average, with some disgruntled customers, as usual, chirping up to soil the spread. Interestingly, the gripes people air about Manivanh are often very specific and personal, super-subjective criticisms unbound by universally persuasive criteria. One reviewer complains about too many onions. Another bemoans the absence of white-meat chicken. A vegetarian whines about fish sauce in the silver noodles she'd thought were meatless, claiming that the waitress rolled her eyes when she shared her grievance, which Bourdain, had he been there, hovering in the corner like a spectral watchdog, would have done too. People are inclined to be inflexible about what they eat at cheap neighborhood restaurants, particular to the point of weird, preschool-y pickiness. We want what we want, when we want it, how we think it should be made -- usually the way we've learned to like it somewhere else. Eggplant is not my favorite vegetable, but I wouldn't tell \u003ca href=\"http://www.frenchlaundry.com/\">Thomas Keller\u003c/a> that if he prepared it for me. Yet if I ordered larb-ped at another Thai restaurant, and for some stupid reason, it arrived topped with a heaping portion of soggy eggplant, I might not go back to try anything else. In such restaurants, perhaps we're really seeking personal chefs challenged to solve the mysteries of our individual tastes without clues, or an unwavering Applebee's from the block, consistently supplying whatever specific eating experience it is we desire, wherever we go. For those who've learned to love it somewhere else, it takes a lot to go out of your way to try larb like this, to begin a new relationship with a familiar food rendered foreign all over again. But, if you do, as Rick said at the end of \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0-QdrUHJbo4\">\"Casablanca,\"\u003c/a> as he strode off into the mist with Captain Louis, it might be the start of a beautiful friendship.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Manivanh\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=Manivanh+thai+restaurant+san+francisco&sll=37.0625,-95.677068&sspn=46.14027,61.083984&ie=UTF8&ll=37.754158,-122.407093&spn=0.090527,0.119305&z=13&iwloc=A\">map\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n2732 24th Street\u003cbr>\n(between Hampshire and Potrero)\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94110\u003cbr>\n(415) 552-3534\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "For five years now, Manivanh, a smallish place on 24th Street near Hampshire, has been one of my very favorite neighborhood restaurants in town. It's a completely unremarkable-looking Thai joint unceremoniously dumped at the grimiest edge of the Mission District, out of step with the strip's bevy of taquerias, hair salons, and, more recently, art galleries and hipster donut stands. ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/manivanh500.jpg\" alt=\"Manivanh Thai Restaurant\" title=\"Manivanh Thai Restaurant\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6338\">\u003cbr>\nFor five years now, Manivanh, a smallish place on 24th Street near Hampshire, has been one of my very favorite neighborhood restaurants in town. It's a completely unremarkable-looking Thai joint unceremoniously dumped at the grimiest edge of the Mission District, out of step with the strip's bevy of taquerias, hair salons, and, more recently, art galleries and hipster donut stands. For three years, I lived two blocks away, not far from 24th and Utah, where \u003ca href=\"http://www.jacksclubsf.com/\">Jack's Club\u003c/a> cheerfully presides over the corner. Manivanh holds just over a dozen tables, half of them empty most nights. The servers frequently look as fried as Krispy Kremes, their eyes distant and glazed. Between orders, they crane their necks to stare up at the television hovering above the counter. One afternoon, when all the area liquor stores were closed for a holiday, the host sold me a few beers to-go without so much as a blink. Manivanh is not a hole-in-the-wall, some Bourdanian treasure where fears of gastrointestinal trauma accompany each tasty bite. The interior is clean and warm, even pleasant. The neighborhood is fine, even though the 24th Street drunks' hacking coughs rattle through the window panes and swaying grocery cart barges skitter along the sidewalk outside. Satay and pad thai don't spark the excitement food-obsessed city residents work up over tacos. Everyone has a favorite Thai lunch place socked away somewhere -- the stuff of cheap lunch specials and coconut-creamed ice teas in tall plastic cups. Manivanh is a true find, unusual precisely because it's so good yet so relentlessly unexceptional in its design and scope, a regular, everyday restaurant without a whiff of marketing mojo and no rugged street food cred. Few would think to sniff it out and even fewer would bother writing about it, but I beseech you all the same to discover it, to walk down 24th Street until you can clearly hear the hum and screech of 101. Look to your left, see the sign, sit down, and order the larb-ped.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/larb400.jpg\" alt=\"Larb\" title=\"Larb\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6339\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Isn't it larb-ly?\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Larb is not a sludge-metal band from Florida or a faintly embarrassing medical condition. Larb may actually be those things as well, but the larbs I know first-hand are meat salads: fish sauce-y melanges in innumerable lovely variations, popular throughout Laos as well as Thailand. Refreshing and bold, Manivanh's larb-ped -- minced duck, lettuce, mint, and red onion laced with a chili-flecked lemon dressing -- is heady, almost druggy in its deliciousness, unsettlingly, crazily flavorful -- a sweet, benevolent \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Oz2jN87jIA\">Klaus Kinski\u003c/a> on the palette. In the past four months, I've taken three different groups of people to Manivanh, and every single neophyte has gone batty for this minor miracle of taste and texture. I wandered down with a friend on the eve of his flight back to Philadelphia and he, upon spooning up the last bit, wondered out-loud if he could pack a few orders to bring back to the city of brotherly love. \"The duck -- it's like bacon, except somehow better,\" another friend remarked on the night of his conversion, reaching for a third helping, unsubtly trying to snag more than his fair share of the chewy, crispy bits. Manivanh's \u003ca href=\"http://sanfrancisco.menupages.com/restaurants/manivanh-thai/\">menu\u003c/a> beckons with many very good things, like grilled pork, chicken with chiles, onion, and fresh basil, and fried bean cake with cashews and roasted curry paste. Yet this one dish -- the transcendent larb-ped -- sends the restaurant over the top, searing it into heart and memory. Again and again, I recommend Manivanh to anyone interested -- because I want others to know it and cherish it as well.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Still, a few weeks ago, in bed, watching the long-awaited \"No Reservations: San Francisco\" on my laptop, I was happy not to see forkfuls of that fine ducky goodness disappearing into \u003ca href=\"http://www.chickenandcheese.org/jonellblog/uploaded_images/jody-bourdain-799684.jpg\">Anthony Bourdain\u003c/a>'s gaping maw. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Over the course of that episode, he painted a broad strokes portrait of the San Francisco he wanted to hate, a city where the good stuff has to be pried out from beneath sheet-rock layers of weak Chez Panisse-y silliness. It's a pretty cool town, he seemed to say, so long as you keep it real among the hordes of smug, self-righteous yoga mat people telling you how to eat -- in his mind, villains more onerous than greedy landlords, creeps, loud-talking Muni lunatics, and fickle fault-lines. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>His pal \u003ca href=\"http://anthony-bourdain-blog.travelchannel.com/read/romania-what-the-hell-happened\">Zamir's meltdown in Romania\u003c/a>, however bizarre and mortifying, was, as Bourdain might intone on a clips show voice-over, good television. Making fun of vegetarians in San Francisco is not. The tall, gray host is usually much more insightful than he was here, using food as a trusty lens through which to respectfully experience the ways people live around the world. He likes delving into the preposterous, the campy, and the down-and-dirty. When it comes to eating on camera, \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NWSvv7hmWSU\">fried squeazel\u003c/a>, pig's eyes, chicken asses, and seven-pound tortas are his ripe texts, ideal, semi-shocking stuff he can stretch into funny, alcohol-soaked, highly watchable lessons of cultural interest.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A pedestrian pleasure such as Manivanh wouldn't interest Bourdain, at least for the sake of his show. For that, I am thankful. I like my larb line-less, my beloved local gems broadcasted via whispers, not ear-splitting bellows from some perch on Foodie Mountain where he sits every Monday, leather-jacketed, hung-over, racked with indigestion, clutching his megaphone. \u003ca href=\"http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/643772\">That's It\u003c/a>, the deli with the seven-pound torta, sits a block away from where I currently live. One day, it was my corner store, and, the next, I had to squeeze through a mob just to get a tall can from the cooler in the back. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It may not make for good television, but you can learn a lot about the way we live from something so mundane as a neighborhood restaurant and its way with one dish -- maybe not from Manivanh specifically, but from establishments like it. In my reality, of which I am, of course, captain, Manivanh serves the best Thai food in the city. The rest of the world doesn't have to agree. Manivanh's \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/manivanh-thai-restaurant-san-francisco\">Yelp reviews\u003c/a> are high, four stars, on average, with some disgruntled customers, as usual, chirping up to soil the spread. Interestingly, the gripes people air about Manivanh are often very specific and personal, super-subjective criticisms unbound by universally persuasive criteria. One reviewer complains about too many onions. Another bemoans the absence of white-meat chicken. A vegetarian whines about fish sauce in the silver noodles she'd thought were meatless, claiming that the waitress rolled her eyes when she shared her grievance, which Bourdain, had he been there, hovering in the corner like a spectral watchdog, would have done too. People are inclined to be inflexible about what they eat at cheap neighborhood restaurants, particular to the point of weird, preschool-y pickiness. We want what we want, when we want it, how we think it should be made -- usually the way we've learned to like it somewhere else. Eggplant is not my favorite vegetable, but I wouldn't tell \u003ca href=\"http://www.frenchlaundry.com/\">Thomas Keller\u003c/a> that if he prepared it for me. Yet if I ordered larb-ped at another Thai restaurant, and for some stupid reason, it arrived topped with a heaping portion of soggy eggplant, I might not go back to try anything else. In such restaurants, perhaps we're really seeking personal chefs challenged to solve the mysteries of our individual tastes without clues, or an unwavering Applebee's from the block, consistently supplying whatever specific eating experience it is we desire, wherever we go. For those who've learned to love it somewhere else, it takes a lot to go out of your way to try larb like this, to begin a new relationship with a familiar food rendered foreign all over again. But, if you do, as Rick said at the end of \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0-QdrUHJbo4\">\"Casablanca,\"\u003c/a> as he strode off into the mist with Captain Louis, it might be the start of a beautiful friendship.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Manivanh\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=Manivanh+thai+restaurant+san+francisco&sll=37.0625,-95.677068&sspn=46.14027,61.083984&ie=UTF8&ll=37.754158,-122.407093&spn=0.090527,0.119305&z=13&iwloc=A\">map\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n2732 24th Street\u003cbr>\n(between Hampshire and Potrero)\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94110\u003cbr>\n(415) 552-3534\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>The kitchen was always interesting to me as a child because it had a number of things I wasnʼt allowed to touch. My sisters didnʼt have these rules. That is because my mother didnʼt worry that they would kill themselves by trying to eat salt or spices straight out of their tins. My curiosity almost always overshadowed my caution. All that stopped the day I knocked loose a couple of my milk teeth; the day I tried to munch on \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fenugreek\">methi\u003c/a> (fenugreek) seeds.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/fenugreek_01.jpg\" alt=\"fenugreek seeds\" title=\"fenugreek seeds\" width=\"500\" height=\"667\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5718\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When you look at the squat, rectangular and extremely hard seeds of fenugreek, you may wonder why anyone would take any trouble to work with it. But this unyielding spice is accompanied by a nutty, bitter and mellow flavor that could not be replicated by anything else. It loses some of its toughness when you gently fry or boil it, which also brings out its subtle flavor. The fragrance of the whole spice is a bit woody. But the wheaty, caramel colored seeds release a nutty aroma when cooked. In a spice blend, its flavors meld with the other spice to give the blend a deep bass note.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Due to the tough physical nature of the spice, it finds wide application in its ground form. But its seeds are also popular. A little goes a long way with this spice, as too much can make your meal overwhelmingly bitter. This is especially true if you are using whole seeds.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fenugreek seeds also have medicinal qualities. As traditional remedies, concoctions of fenugreek are used as an appetite stimulator, in the curing of cough and congestion and prescribed to nursing mothers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In India, the leaves of the fenugreek plant are used as a fragrant herb when dried and used as greens in their fresh state. The bitterness of the seed is reflected in the fresh leaves. They are very fragrant when they are dried. In the dry form, fenugreek leaves are used in curries and paired with vegetables like peas. They pair especially well with cream-based recipes. The seeds are like a more humble cousin. They too are used in different kinds of curries and in combination with various vegetables like okra and eggplant. The difference is that the seed will form the base of the recipe while the herblike leaves will be sprinkled on top of a dish towards the end of cooking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Potatoes with coconut and fenugreek seeds\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While several dishes use fenugreek seeds, either as part of a spice mix or on its own, the seeds are the star of this recipe along with the very versatile potato. It would be hard to define the roots of this dish. It falls under some semblance of western Indian cooking, but I think the credit lies with my mother-in-law, from whom I got the recipe. Were you to try to look for a similar vegetable recipe, you would most likely end up with several using fenugreek leaves. Like most Indian dishes, this one involves a combination of a few spices but they all come together in celebration of this unassuming seed, which is often relegated to a supporting role.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/fenugreek_potato_02.jpg\" alt=\"Potatoes with coconut and fenugreek seeds\" title=\"Potatoes with coconut and fenugreek seeds\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5721\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Serves:\u003c/strong> 3-4\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n4 large yellow or red potatoes\u003cbr>\n1 cup grated coconut (fresh or frozen)\u003cbr>\n5 to 6 peppercorns\u003cbr>\n1/2 tsp tamarind paste\u003cbr>\n1 tsp black mustard seeds\u003cbr>\n1/4 tsp asafoetida\u003cbr>\n1/2 tsp fenugreek seeds\u003cbr>\n4 to 5 curry leaves\u003cbr>\n1/4 tsp turmeric powder\u003cbr>\n1/2 tsp red chilli powder\u003cbr>\n1 large tomato, diced\u003cbr>\n2 to 3 tbsp canola or vegetable oil\u003cbr>\nSalt to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1. Cut potatoes lengthwise into eighths.\u003cbr>\n2. In a food processor, grind together the coconut, peppercorns and tamarind paste.\u003cbr>\n3. Heat the oil in a deep pan. To this add the mustard seeds, asafoetida, fenugreek seeds and curry leaves.\u003cbr>\n4. When the mustard seeds and curry leaves start to splutter, add the potatoes and stir to coat.\u003cbr>\n5. Add the turmeric and chilli powders and toss the potatoes in it until evenly coated. Fry for a bit.\u003cbr>\n6. Add the coconut gravy. Stir together and cover the pan to allow the mixture to simmer for a short while.\u003cbr>\n7. Once the potatoes are just about cooked, add the diced tomato and stir. Add salt.\u003cbr>\n8. Turn up the heat to bring the mixture to a rolling boil. Then turn the heat down to simmer for five minutes before serving.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Serve with rice or bread.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Notes:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nFenugreek seeds should be lightly roasted. They are horribly bitter and hard to eat when they are subjected to a dark roast. The seeds are readily available in any store that sells spices. Certain grocery stores, like Safeway may sell it in its powdered form. Indian chilli powder is purely ground up dried chillis. That (as well as \u003ca href=\"http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-asafoetida.htm\">asafoetida\u003c/a>) are available inexpensively in Indian stores. Curry leaves should be available in their freezer section. A good thing to remember is that most Indian stores will sell spices at much more reasonable rates than other stores. Since they are widely used in Indian food, the spices there should also be fresher because of the rapid turnover.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>The kitchen was always interesting to me as a child because it had a number of things I wasnʼt allowed to touch. My sisters didnʼt have these rules. That is because my mother didnʼt worry that they would kill themselves by trying to eat salt or spices straight out of their tins. My curiosity almost always overshadowed my caution. All that stopped the day I knocked loose a couple of my milk teeth; the day I tried to munch on \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fenugreek\">methi\u003c/a> (fenugreek) seeds.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/fenugreek_01.jpg\" alt=\"fenugreek seeds\" title=\"fenugreek seeds\" width=\"500\" height=\"667\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5718\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When you look at the squat, rectangular and extremely hard seeds of fenugreek, you may wonder why anyone would take any trouble to work with it. But this unyielding spice is accompanied by a nutty, bitter and mellow flavor that could not be replicated by anything else. It loses some of its toughness when you gently fry or boil it, which also brings out its subtle flavor. The fragrance of the whole spice is a bit woody. But the wheaty, caramel colored seeds release a nutty aroma when cooked. In a spice blend, its flavors meld with the other spice to give the blend a deep bass note.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Due to the tough physical nature of the spice, it finds wide application in its ground form. But its seeds are also popular. A little goes a long way with this spice, as too much can make your meal overwhelmingly bitter. This is especially true if you are using whole seeds.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fenugreek seeds also have medicinal qualities. As traditional remedies, concoctions of fenugreek are used as an appetite stimulator, in the curing of cough and congestion and prescribed to nursing mothers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In India, the leaves of the fenugreek plant are used as a fragrant herb when dried and used as greens in their fresh state. The bitterness of the seed is reflected in the fresh leaves. They are very fragrant when they are dried. In the dry form, fenugreek leaves are used in curries and paired with vegetables like peas. They pair especially well with cream-based recipes. The seeds are like a more humble cousin. They too are used in different kinds of curries and in combination with various vegetables like okra and eggplant. The difference is that the seed will form the base of the recipe while the herblike leaves will be sprinkled on top of a dish towards the end of cooking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Potatoes with coconut and fenugreek seeds\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While several dishes use fenugreek seeds, either as part of a spice mix or on its own, the seeds are the star of this recipe along with the very versatile potato. It would be hard to define the roots of this dish. It falls under some semblance of western Indian cooking, but I think the credit lies with my mother-in-law, from whom I got the recipe. Were you to try to look for a similar vegetable recipe, you would most likely end up with several using fenugreek leaves. Like most Indian dishes, this one involves a combination of a few spices but they all come together in celebration of this unassuming seed, which is often relegated to a supporting role.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/fenugreek_potato_02.jpg\" alt=\"Potatoes with coconut and fenugreek seeds\" title=\"Potatoes with coconut and fenugreek seeds\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5721\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Serves:\u003c/strong> 3-4\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n4 large yellow or red potatoes\u003cbr>\n1 cup grated coconut (fresh or frozen)\u003cbr>\n5 to 6 peppercorns\u003cbr>\n1/2 tsp tamarind paste\u003cbr>\n1 tsp black mustard seeds\u003cbr>\n1/4 tsp asafoetida\u003cbr>\n1/2 tsp fenugreek seeds\u003cbr>\n4 to 5 curry leaves\u003cbr>\n1/4 tsp turmeric powder\u003cbr>\n1/2 tsp red chilli powder\u003cbr>\n1 large tomato, diced\u003cbr>\n2 to 3 tbsp canola or vegetable oil\u003cbr>\nSalt to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1. Cut potatoes lengthwise into eighths.\u003cbr>\n2. In a food processor, grind together the coconut, peppercorns and tamarind paste.\u003cbr>\n3. Heat the oil in a deep pan. To this add the mustard seeds, asafoetida, fenugreek seeds and curry leaves.\u003cbr>\n4. When the mustard seeds and curry leaves start to splutter, add the potatoes and stir to coat.\u003cbr>\n5. Add the turmeric and chilli powders and toss the potatoes in it until evenly coated. Fry for a bit.\u003cbr>\n6. Add the coconut gravy. Stir together and cover the pan to allow the mixture to simmer for a short while.\u003cbr>\n7. Once the potatoes are just about cooked, add the diced tomato and stir. Add salt.\u003cbr>\n8. Turn up the heat to bring the mixture to a rolling boil. Then turn the heat down to simmer for five minutes before serving.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Serve with rice or bread.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Notes:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nFenugreek seeds should be lightly roasted. They are horribly bitter and hard to eat when they are subjected to a dark roast. The seeds are readily available in any store that sells spices. Certain grocery stores, like Safeway may sell it in its powdered form. Indian chilli powder is purely ground up dried chillis. That (as well as \u003ca href=\"http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-asafoetida.htm\">asafoetida\u003c/a>) are available inexpensively in Indian stores. Curry leaves should be available in their freezer section. A good thing to remember is that most Indian stores will sell spices at much more reasonable rates than other stores. Since they are widely used in Indian food, the spices there should also be fresher because of the rapid turnover.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Summer of Otsu",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5739\" title=\"Otsu\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/otsu-016.jpg\" alt=\"Otsu\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Otsu\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lately, I've been obsessed with this \u003ca href=\"http://www.101cookbooks.com/archives/000110.html\">buckwheat soba noodle recipe\u003c/a> I spotted on one of my favorite healthy food blogs, \u003cstrong>101 Cookbooks\u003c/strong>. The recipe is originally from \u003ca href=\"http://www.pomelosf.com/\">Pomelo\u003c/a>, a fresh little restaurant serving \"global cuisine\" in Outer Noe Valley and the Inner Sunset, and let me tell you, it is a keeper. I just cannot seem to tire of it. It's healthy and light, yet substantial enough to make up a full meal. Plus, it's a breeze to whip up...and the flavors! There's a wonderful balance to this dish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5740\" title=\"Chili powder, lemon zest, salt and honey\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/otsu-001.jpg\" alt=\"Chili powder, lemon zest, salt and honey\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Heat, tang, salt, and sweet\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The honey, soy sauce, and rice vinegar in the dressing gives it a great sweet, salty, tang. The lemon juice adds a touch of bright acidity, and the sesame oil, a mellow nuttiness. Then there's the cayenne and ginger, imparting the perfect amount of warmth that caresses the back of your throat as you savor it all. (I do bring down the cayenne from ¾ teaspoon to ½ teaspoon for a more subtle heat.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5741\" title=\"Scallion, cilantro, cucumber\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/otsu-006.jpg\" alt=\"Scallion, cilantro, cucumber\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem> Cool greens: scallion, cilantro, cucumber\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After the heat comes the cool crisp greens. I cut my cucumber slices as thin as I can, and mix them with chopped cilantro and scallions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I love this recipe because it requires barely any cooking. Use of the stove is limited to boiling water for the noodles (be sure to keep them al dente for a nice springy chew), and pan frying the tofu. While pan frying tofu is essentially a simple concept, it can prove to be tricky due to tofu's delicate consistency.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A few tips on the tofu:\u003cbr>\n1. \u003cstrong>Use oil.\u003c/strong> While the recipe calls for cooking the tofu in a \"dry\" nonstick skillet, mine stuck to my nonstick pan and came out a mess when I didn't use any oil. I suggest playing it safe and coating the bottom of your pan with vegetable or olive oil.\u003cbr>\n2. \u003cstrong>Pat it dry.\u003c/strong> Using paper towels, pat dry your tofu as much as possible. This will minimize splatter and the tofu will brown more evenly.\u003cbr>\n3. \u003cstrong>Cornstarch.\u003c/strong> For extra crisp, dust a little cornstarch on all sides.\u003cbr>\n4. \u003cstrong>Be patient.\u003c/strong> Once the tofu hits the pan, don't move it around. You will see that as it cooks, it will firm up. Only then should you try lifting it up to test the level of goldenness on the bottom. If you rush it, your tofu will fall apart.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once the tofu is cooked, I prefer cutting it up into 1-inch squares, or lengthwise like matchsticks (much better than leaving it in giant hunks like I did in my first go-around pictured above).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5742\" title=\"soba noodle salad\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/otsu-010.jpg\" alt=\"soba noodle salad\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Soba noodles dressed\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once everything is done, a quick toss and you have yourself the perfect summer meal. I paired it with this \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2009/07/15/steamed-sea-bass-cantonese-style/\">Steamed Sea Bass with Ginger and Scallion\u003c/a> and the combo was fantastic.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Lately, I've been obsessed with this buckwheat soba noodle recipe I spotted on one of my favorite healthy food blogs, \u003cstrong>101 Cookbooks\u003c/strong>. The recipe is originally from Pomelo, a fresh little restaurant serving \"global cuisine\" in Outer Noe Valley and the Inner Sunset, and let me tell you, it is a keeper. I just cannot seem to tire of it. It's healthy and light, yet substantial enough to make up a full meal. Plus, it's a breeze to whip up...and the flavors! ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5739\" title=\"Otsu\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/otsu-016.jpg\" alt=\"Otsu\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Otsu\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lately, I've been obsessed with this \u003ca href=\"http://www.101cookbooks.com/archives/000110.html\">buckwheat soba noodle recipe\u003c/a> I spotted on one of my favorite healthy food blogs, \u003cstrong>101 Cookbooks\u003c/strong>. The recipe is originally from \u003ca href=\"http://www.pomelosf.com/\">Pomelo\u003c/a>, a fresh little restaurant serving \"global cuisine\" in Outer Noe Valley and the Inner Sunset, and let me tell you, it is a keeper. I just cannot seem to tire of it. It's healthy and light, yet substantial enough to make up a full meal. Plus, it's a breeze to whip up...and the flavors! There's a wonderful balance to this dish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5740\" title=\"Chili powder, lemon zest, salt and honey\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/otsu-001.jpg\" alt=\"Chili powder, lemon zest, salt and honey\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Heat, tang, salt, and sweet\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The honey, soy sauce, and rice vinegar in the dressing gives it a great sweet, salty, tang. The lemon juice adds a touch of bright acidity, and the sesame oil, a mellow nuttiness. Then there's the cayenne and ginger, imparting the perfect amount of warmth that caresses the back of your throat as you savor it all. (I do bring down the cayenne from ¾ teaspoon to ½ teaspoon for a more subtle heat.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5741\" title=\"Scallion, cilantro, cucumber\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/otsu-006.jpg\" alt=\"Scallion, cilantro, cucumber\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem> Cool greens: scallion, cilantro, cucumber\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After the heat comes the cool crisp greens. I cut my cucumber slices as thin as I can, and mix them with chopped cilantro and scallions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I love this recipe because it requires barely any cooking. Use of the stove is limited to boiling water for the noodles (be sure to keep them al dente for a nice springy chew), and pan frying the tofu. While pan frying tofu is essentially a simple concept, it can prove to be tricky due to tofu's delicate consistency.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A few tips on the tofu:\u003cbr>\n1. \u003cstrong>Use oil.\u003c/strong> While the recipe calls for cooking the tofu in a \"dry\" nonstick skillet, mine stuck to my nonstick pan and came out a mess when I didn't use any oil. I suggest playing it safe and coating the bottom of your pan with vegetable or olive oil.\u003cbr>\n2. \u003cstrong>Pat it dry.\u003c/strong> Using paper towels, pat dry your tofu as much as possible. This will minimize splatter and the tofu will brown more evenly.\u003cbr>\n3. \u003cstrong>Cornstarch.\u003c/strong> For extra crisp, dust a little cornstarch on all sides.\u003cbr>\n4. \u003cstrong>Be patient.\u003c/strong> Once the tofu hits the pan, don't move it around. You will see that as it cooks, it will firm up. Only then should you try lifting it up to test the level of goldenness on the bottom. If you rush it, your tofu will fall apart.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once the tofu is cooked, I prefer cutting it up into 1-inch squares, or lengthwise like matchsticks (much better than leaving it in giant hunks like I did in my first go-around pictured above).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5742\" title=\"soba noodle salad\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/otsu-010.jpg\" alt=\"soba noodle salad\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Soba noodles dressed\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once everything is done, a quick toss and you have yourself the perfect summer meal. I paired it with this \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2009/07/15/steamed-sea-bass-cantonese-style/\">Steamed Sea Bass with Ginger and Scallion\u003c/a> and the combo was fantastic.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/thai-curry036.jpg\" alt=\"Butternut Squash Thai Curry\" title=\"Butternut Squash Thai Curry\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5554\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Butternut Squash Thai Curry\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When we were little, our parents taught us not to talk to strangers. I sometimes wonder if my boyfriend's parents ever warned him of the dangers, because he talks to strangers all the time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He's a master chatter. He makes best friends with cashiers, older ladies love him, and he somehow induces perfect strangers to tell him their life story. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And so it went when we paid Barry from Craigslist a visit to see about some copper pots. One thing led to another, and before long we were two hours deep in conversation about his past life as the executive chef of a cruise ship making its maiden voyage in 1969. We left Barry that afternoon with a smile on his face, confident that his prize pots had found a good home. And we walked away 3 copper pots, a handful of cookbooks, and a few stories richer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/thai-curry031.jpg\" alt=\"Sticky Rice\" title=\"Sticky Rice\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5553\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Sticky rice cooked in a prize pot \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I've grown particularly fond of one of the books we picked up, \u003ca href=\"http://astore.amazon.com/limysp-20/detail/0761500162\">The Best of Vietnamese & Thai Cooking\u003c/a>, written by Mai Pham, chef/owner of \u003ca href=\"http://www.lemongrassrestaurant.com/\">Lemon Grass Restaurant\u003c/a> in Sacramento, and Barry's former instructor at the Culinary Institute of America. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I spotted Pham's recipe for \u003cstrong>Thai Seafood Curry with Pumpkin and Fresh Basil\u003c/strong>, I was reminded of one of my favorite dishes from \u003ca href=\"http://lickmyspoon.com/sfeats/osha-thai/\">Osha\u003c/a>, Pumpkin Curry. While Pham's recipe calls for mussels, salmon, and shrimp, I decided to go with simplified, vegetarian version using roasted butternut squash and a touch of tomato paste. I also happened to have some leftover pan-fried, extra firm tofu on hand, so I threw that in for some more substance. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You will fall in love with this fragrant and full-flavored curry. The two magic ingredients I discovered in this recipe are \u003cstrong>lemon grass\u003c/strong> and \u003cstrong>Kaffir lime leaves\u003c/strong>, both acquired at Whole Foods (along with my red Thai curry powder). They infuse the curry with the most seductive aroma. Fresh and citrusy, with a touch of spicy floral essence. Do not skimp on these ingredients. They will transform your dish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/thai-curry018.jpg\" alt=\"Minced lemon grass\" title=\"Minced lemon grass\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5551\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Minced lemon grass\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lemon grass can look intimidating, but don't be scared. To prep and make the most use out of it, first peel off the tough, outer layers of the stalk. Thinly slice from the fatter bulb end first. Stop when you get to the green parts of the stalk on top. Cut these top green parts into 2-inch pieces and set aside. You can use these for your curry, simply bruise them with the back of your knife, splitting the stalk open and releasing the essential oils. The thin slices from the bulb can then be minced (use a food processor to make your life easier) and stored in Ziploc bags for up to 4 months or so in the freezer. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/thai-curry-005.jpg\" alt=\"Kaffir lime leaves\" title=\"Kaffir lime leaves\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5556\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Kaffir lime leaves\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I store my lime leaves in the freezer as well to extend their shelf life. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/thai-curry-001.jpg\" alt=\"butternut squash\" title=\"butternut squash\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5555\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Gutted butternut squash, nuked and ready to peel\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A trick I learned when working with butternut squash -- it can be tough to cut through and peel when the squash is raw. If you microwave the entire thing for a few minutes, it will soften up, allowing you to slice through it easily.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/thai-curry-029.jpg\" alt=\"roasted butternut squash\" title=\"roasted butternut squash\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5558\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Roasted butternut squash\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pham cooks her squash right in the curry, but I found that roasting it first really develops its flavor and is totally worth the extra time! Serve it over some coconut rice and you will be in Thai heaven. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/thai-curry026.jpg\" alt=\"Chaokoh coconut milk\" title=\"Chaokoh coconut milk\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5552\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Chaokoh: best brand of coconut milk\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/mango-coconut-rice-004.jpg\" alt=\"Coconut Rice with Mango\" title=\"Coconut Rice with Mango\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5559\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Coconut Rice with Mango\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Coconut rice\u003c/strong> is used in a popular Thai dessert, served with slices of sweet, juicy mangoes. It also happens to make a wonderfully aromatic base for your coconut milk-based curry. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After craving it for all these years, turns out coconut rice is just cooked rice mixed with a simple coconut sauce. If you have a rice cooker, all you really have to do is whip up the sauce (just don't try dumping the sauce in with the uncooked rice all at once…that um…doesn't work out too well). And if you don’t have a rice cooker, steaming rice in a pot is easy too. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So there you have it. A complete delicious Thai meal, made in a pair of beautiful copper pots. Thanks, stranger.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003cbr>\nButternut Squash Thai Curry with Coconut Rice\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Adapted recipe from “The Best of Vietnamese and Thai Cooking” by Mai Pham \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Serves:\u003c/strong> 4\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n2 lb. whole butternut squash (or 1 package pre-cut)\u003cbr>\n1 tablespoon olive oil\u003cbr>\n2 (13.5 oz) cans unsweetened coconut milk (Chaokoh); reserve 2/3 c. for coconut rice\u003cbr>\n3 (2-inch) pieces lemon grass stalk bruised slightly with the back of a knife; or 1 tablespoon minced lemon grass stalk\u003cbr>\n2 Kaffir lime leaves, cut in thirds\u003cbr>\n3 tablespoons sugar\u003cbr>\n3 tablespoons fish sauce\u003cbr>\n1 tablespoon tomato paste\u003cbr>\n1 teaspoon red thai curry\u003cbr>\n½ teaspoon turmeric\u003cbr>\n½ teaspoon salt\u003cbr>\n2 ripe red vine tomatoes, thinly sliced\u003cbr>\nCilantro or fresh basil to garnish\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Coconut Rice\u003c/strong> (recipe below)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1.\tPreheat oven to 450 F.\u003cbr>\n2.\tIf not using pre-cut butternut squash, microwave whole squash for about 5 minutes to soften so it’s easier to cut.\u003cbr>\n3.\tRemove skin, scoop out seeds, and cut into 1 inch cubes. Drizzle with 1 tablespoon olive oil, pinch of salt and pepper, and roast for 30-40 minutes until browned.\u003cbr>\n4.\tRemove squash from oven and allow it to cool.\u003cbr>\n5.\tMeanwhile, heat a large saucepan over moderate heat. Skim off the top thick, creamy part of the coconut milk, about ½ cup, and add it to the pan. Add the curry paste and stir to dissolve. Let mixture sizzle and bubble for 2 to 3 minutes.\u003cbr>\n6.\tReserve 2/3 cup coconut milk in a small saucepan for the coconut rice. Add the remaining coconut milk, lemon grass, lime leaves, sugar, fish sauce, tomato paste, turmeric, and salt. Increase the heat to high and bring to a simmer.\u003cbr>\n7.\tAdd the tomatoes and let cook for about 10 minutes until they dissolve. While this simmers you can prepare the coconut rice (recipe follows). Add roasted butternut squash and allow to simmer for another 5 minutes.\u003cbr>\n8.\tServe over coconut rice and garnish with freshly chopped cilantro or julienned basil.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Sticky Coconut Rice and Fresh Mangoes\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Excerpted from “The Best of Vietnamese and Thai Cooking” by Mai Pham \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Serves:\u003c/strong> 4\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients: \u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Rice\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n1 ¼ cups water\u003cbr>\n1 cup Thai long-grain sticky rice, soaked in warm water for 1 hour and drained \u003cem>(Adaptation note: I used California Calrose rice, a medium-grain sticky rice, and washed but didn't bother soaking)\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n2 tablespoons sugar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Coconut Sauce\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n2/3 cups unsweetened coconut milk (Chaokoh)\u003cbr>\n¼ cup sugar\u003cbr>\n1/4 teaspoon vanilla extract\u003cbr>\nPinch of salt\u003cbr>\n1 tablespoon cornstarch\u003cbr>\n1/3 cup water\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Garnish\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n2 medium to large ripe mangoes, peeled and cut into slices\u003cbr>\n2 tablespoons sesame seeds, lightly toasted\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1.\tIf you have a rice cooker, mix together the 1 ¼ cups water and 2 tablespoons sugar, and combine with the rice. While the rice cooks, prepare the coconut sauce.\u003cbr>\n2.\tIf you do not have a rice cooker, bring the water to a boil in a medium saucepan. Quickly stir in the rice and add the 2 tablespoons sugar. Let boil for 2 minutes, then reduce the heat to very low. Cover and simmer only until the water has evaporated and the rice is tender, 8 to 10 minutes. Remove pan from heat and let sit for 20 minutes. Uncover and fluff rice with a fork or chopsticks. Set aside.\u003cbr>\n3.\tPrepare the coconut sauce: in the small saucepan with the coconut milk reserved from before, add the ¼ cup sugar, vanilla, and salt. Bring to a boil.\u003cbr>\n4.\tIn a small bowl, mix the cornstarch and 1/3 cup water and stir until dissolved. While the coconut sauce is simmering, slowly drizzle in the cornstarch mixture and stir until sauce is thick enough to coat a spoon. Remove from heat and set aside.\u003cbr>\n5.\tDrizzle the coconut sauce over the rice a few tablespoons at a time to taste.\u003cbr>\n6.\tIf you're serving this as a dessert, place a small mound of sticky rice (about ½ cup) in the center of a serving plate and surround with mango slices. Drizzle some more coconut sauce over each mound and sprinkle with sesame seeds.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "After acquiring 3 prize copper pots and the cookbook \"The Best of Vietnamese & Thai Cooking\" by Mai Pham from a Craigslist ad I adapted a couple of recipes from the book and prepared: Butternut Squash Thai Curry with Coconut Rice and Sticky Coconut Rice and Fresh Mangoes.\r\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/thai-curry036.jpg\" alt=\"Butternut Squash Thai Curry\" title=\"Butternut Squash Thai Curry\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5554\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Butternut Squash Thai Curry\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When we were little, our parents taught us not to talk to strangers. I sometimes wonder if my boyfriend's parents ever warned him of the dangers, because he talks to strangers all the time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He's a master chatter. He makes best friends with cashiers, older ladies love him, and he somehow induces perfect strangers to tell him their life story. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And so it went when we paid Barry from Craigslist a visit to see about some copper pots. One thing led to another, and before long we were two hours deep in conversation about his past life as the executive chef of a cruise ship making its maiden voyage in 1969. We left Barry that afternoon with a smile on his face, confident that his prize pots had found a good home. And we walked away 3 copper pots, a handful of cookbooks, and a few stories richer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/thai-curry031.jpg\" alt=\"Sticky Rice\" title=\"Sticky Rice\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5553\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Sticky rice cooked in a prize pot \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I've grown particularly fond of one of the books we picked up, \u003ca href=\"http://astore.amazon.com/limysp-20/detail/0761500162\">The Best of Vietnamese & Thai Cooking\u003c/a>, written by Mai Pham, chef/owner of \u003ca href=\"http://www.lemongrassrestaurant.com/\">Lemon Grass Restaurant\u003c/a> in Sacramento, and Barry's former instructor at the Culinary Institute of America. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I spotted Pham's recipe for \u003cstrong>Thai Seafood Curry with Pumpkin and Fresh Basil\u003c/strong>, I was reminded of one of my favorite dishes from \u003ca href=\"http://lickmyspoon.com/sfeats/osha-thai/\">Osha\u003c/a>, Pumpkin Curry. While Pham's recipe calls for mussels, salmon, and shrimp, I decided to go with simplified, vegetarian version using roasted butternut squash and a touch of tomato paste. I also happened to have some leftover pan-fried, extra firm tofu on hand, so I threw that in for some more substance. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You will fall in love with this fragrant and full-flavored curry. The two magic ingredients I discovered in this recipe are \u003cstrong>lemon grass\u003c/strong> and \u003cstrong>Kaffir lime leaves\u003c/strong>, both acquired at Whole Foods (along with my red Thai curry powder). They infuse the curry with the most seductive aroma. Fresh and citrusy, with a touch of spicy floral essence. Do not skimp on these ingredients. They will transform your dish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/thai-curry018.jpg\" alt=\"Minced lemon grass\" title=\"Minced lemon grass\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5551\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Minced lemon grass\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lemon grass can look intimidating, but don't be scared. To prep and make the most use out of it, first peel off the tough, outer layers of the stalk. Thinly slice from the fatter bulb end first. Stop when you get to the green parts of the stalk on top. Cut these top green parts into 2-inch pieces and set aside. You can use these for your curry, simply bruise them with the back of your knife, splitting the stalk open and releasing the essential oils. The thin slices from the bulb can then be minced (use a food processor to make your life easier) and stored in Ziploc bags for up to 4 months or so in the freezer. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/thai-curry-005.jpg\" alt=\"Kaffir lime leaves\" title=\"Kaffir lime leaves\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5556\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Kaffir lime leaves\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I store my lime leaves in the freezer as well to extend their shelf life. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/thai-curry-001.jpg\" alt=\"butternut squash\" title=\"butternut squash\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5555\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Gutted butternut squash, nuked and ready to peel\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A trick I learned when working with butternut squash -- it can be tough to cut through and peel when the squash is raw. If you microwave the entire thing for a few minutes, it will soften up, allowing you to slice through it easily.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/thai-curry-029.jpg\" alt=\"roasted butternut squash\" title=\"roasted butternut squash\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5558\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Roasted butternut squash\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pham cooks her squash right in the curry, but I found that roasting it first really develops its flavor and is totally worth the extra time! Serve it over some coconut rice and you will be in Thai heaven. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/thai-curry026.jpg\" alt=\"Chaokoh coconut milk\" title=\"Chaokoh coconut milk\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5552\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Chaokoh: best brand of coconut milk\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/mango-coconut-rice-004.jpg\" alt=\"Coconut Rice with Mango\" title=\"Coconut Rice with Mango\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5559\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Coconut Rice with Mango\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Coconut rice\u003c/strong> is used in a popular Thai dessert, served with slices of sweet, juicy mangoes. It also happens to make a wonderfully aromatic base for your coconut milk-based curry. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After craving it for all these years, turns out coconut rice is just cooked rice mixed with a simple coconut sauce. If you have a rice cooker, all you really have to do is whip up the sauce (just don't try dumping the sauce in with the uncooked rice all at once…that um…doesn't work out too well). And if you don’t have a rice cooker, steaming rice in a pot is easy too. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So there you have it. A complete delicious Thai meal, made in a pair of beautiful copper pots. Thanks, stranger.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003cbr>\nButternut Squash Thai Curry with Coconut Rice\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Adapted recipe from “The Best of Vietnamese and Thai Cooking” by Mai Pham \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Serves:\u003c/strong> 4\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n2 lb. whole butternut squash (or 1 package pre-cut)\u003cbr>\n1 tablespoon olive oil\u003cbr>\n2 (13.5 oz) cans unsweetened coconut milk (Chaokoh); reserve 2/3 c. for coconut rice\u003cbr>\n3 (2-inch) pieces lemon grass stalk bruised slightly with the back of a knife; or 1 tablespoon minced lemon grass stalk\u003cbr>\n2 Kaffir lime leaves, cut in thirds\u003cbr>\n3 tablespoons sugar\u003cbr>\n3 tablespoons fish sauce\u003cbr>\n1 tablespoon tomato paste\u003cbr>\n1 teaspoon red thai curry\u003cbr>\n½ teaspoon turmeric\u003cbr>\n½ teaspoon salt\u003cbr>\n2 ripe red vine tomatoes, thinly sliced\u003cbr>\nCilantro or fresh basil to garnish\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Coconut Rice\u003c/strong> (recipe below)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1.\tPreheat oven to 450 F.\u003cbr>\n2.\tIf not using pre-cut butternut squash, microwave whole squash for about 5 minutes to soften so it’s easier to cut.\u003cbr>\n3.\tRemove skin, scoop out seeds, and cut into 1 inch cubes. Drizzle with 1 tablespoon olive oil, pinch of salt and pepper, and roast for 30-40 minutes until browned.\u003cbr>\n4.\tRemove squash from oven and allow it to cool.\u003cbr>\n5.\tMeanwhile, heat a large saucepan over moderate heat. Skim off the top thick, creamy part of the coconut milk, about ½ cup, and add it to the pan. Add the curry paste and stir to dissolve. Let mixture sizzle and bubble for 2 to 3 minutes.\u003cbr>\n6.\tReserve 2/3 cup coconut milk in a small saucepan for the coconut rice. Add the remaining coconut milk, lemon grass, lime leaves, sugar, fish sauce, tomato paste, turmeric, and salt. Increase the heat to high and bring to a simmer.\u003cbr>\n7.\tAdd the tomatoes and let cook for about 10 minutes until they dissolve. While this simmers you can prepare the coconut rice (recipe follows). Add roasted butternut squash and allow to simmer for another 5 minutes.\u003cbr>\n8.\tServe over coconut rice and garnish with freshly chopped cilantro or julienned basil.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Sticky Coconut Rice and Fresh Mangoes\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Excerpted from “The Best of Vietnamese and Thai Cooking” by Mai Pham \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Serves:\u003c/strong> 4\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients: \u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Rice\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n1 ¼ cups water\u003cbr>\n1 cup Thai long-grain sticky rice, soaked in warm water for 1 hour and drained \u003cem>(Adaptation note: I used California Calrose rice, a medium-grain sticky rice, and washed but didn't bother soaking)\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n2 tablespoons sugar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Coconut Sauce\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n2/3 cups unsweetened coconut milk (Chaokoh)\u003cbr>\n¼ cup sugar\u003cbr>\n1/4 teaspoon vanilla extract\u003cbr>\nPinch of salt\u003cbr>\n1 tablespoon cornstarch\u003cbr>\n1/3 cup water\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Garnish\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n2 medium to large ripe mangoes, peeled and cut into slices\u003cbr>\n2 tablespoons sesame seeds, lightly toasted\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1.\tIf you have a rice cooker, mix together the 1 ¼ cups water and 2 tablespoons sugar, and combine with the rice. While the rice cooks, prepare the coconut sauce.\u003cbr>\n2.\tIf you do not have a rice cooker, bring the water to a boil in a medium saucepan. Quickly stir in the rice and add the 2 tablespoons sugar. Let boil for 2 minutes, then reduce the heat to very low. Cover and simmer only until the water has evaporated and the rice is tender, 8 to 10 minutes. Remove pan from heat and let sit for 20 minutes. Uncover and fluff rice with a fork or chopsticks. Set aside.\u003cbr>\n3.\tPrepare the coconut sauce: in the small saucepan with the coconut milk reserved from before, add the ¼ cup sugar, vanilla, and salt. Bring to a boil.\u003cbr>\n4.\tIn a small bowl, mix the cornstarch and 1/3 cup water and stir until dissolved. While the coconut sauce is simmering, slowly drizzle in the cornstarch mixture and stir until sauce is thick enough to coat a spoon. Remove from heat and set aside.\u003cbr>\n5.\tDrizzle the coconut sauce over the rice a few tablespoons at a time to taste.\u003cbr>\n6.\tIf you're serving this as a dessert, place a small mound of sticky rice (about ½ cup) in the center of a serving plate and surround with mango slices. Drizzle some more coconut sauce over each mound and sprinkle with sesame seeds.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "\"Steamed\" Sea Bass, Cantonese Style",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/chinese-sea-bass-009.jpg\" alt=\"cantonese steamed sea bass\" title=\"cantonese steamed sea bass\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5255\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Steamed Sea Bass, Cantonese Style\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I use \"steamed\" in quotes because this dish forgoes the traditional method of steaming in a covered wok in favor of a more contemporary technique: the microwave.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Before you shun me, just try it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The fish ends up steaming in its own juices, and soaks up all the great flavor of the seasonings, fresh ginger and scallion.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is one of the first recipes my mom ever taught me, and I love teaching it to newbies because it's shockingly fast, easy, healthy and delicious. With the help of the ol' dinger you can have this dish done from start to finish in 15 minutes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Black Bean Garlic Sauce\u003c/strong> (which is delicious on pork ribs too) and \u003cstrong>Seasoned Soy Sauce for Seafood\u003c/strong> are the secret ingredients worth hunting down for this dish. \u003cstrong>Lee Kum Kee\u003c/strong> is a common brand that makes both products, and they can be found in Chinatown or an Asian-mart like Ranch 99. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Serve the fish over some white jasmine rice or soba noodles and you'll have a light, summer dinner ready in no time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/chinese-sea-bass-004.jpg\" alt=\"cantonese sea bass ingredients\" title=\"cantonese sea bass ingredients\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5254\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Ingredients for Cantonese Sea Bass\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\"Steamed\" Sea Bass, Cantonese Style\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Serves\u003c/strong>: 4\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n4 (6 oz.) Chilean sea bass fillets (or 1 1/2 lb. Chilean sea bass steak, you can commonly find these frozen in Asian-marts, just it thaw out first)\u003cbr>\nPinch of salt and white pepper\u003cbr>\n1 teaspoon cornstarch\u003cbr>\n½ teaspoon black bean garlic sauce (Lee Kum Kee)\u003cbr>\n2-3 slices peeled ginger\u003cbr>\n2-3 pieces scallion\u003cbr>\n1 teaspoon soy sauce for seafood (Lee Kum Kee)\u003cbr>\n1 teaspoon vegetable oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1.\tRinse and pat dry fish.\u003cbr>\n2.\tSprinkle salt, white pepper, and cornstarch on both sides.\u003cbr>\n3.\tCoat all over with black bean garlic sauce.\u003cbr>\n4.\tJulienne the slices of ginger; place on top of fish.\u003cbr>\n5.\tRemove the wilted tops and root ends of the scallion. Make a slit, splitting the bottom white part lengthwise. Cut on the bias in 2 inch pieces. The pieces will look large, but don't worry, they will shrink when you cook it; place on top of fish.\u003cbr>\n6.\tDrizzle the soy sauce and vegetable oil on top.\u003cbr>\n7.\tCover with plastic wrap and microwave for about 8 minutes. \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/chinese-sea-bass-009.jpg\" alt=\"cantonese steamed sea bass\" title=\"cantonese steamed sea bass\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5255\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Steamed Sea Bass, Cantonese Style\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I use \"steamed\" in quotes because this dish forgoes the traditional method of steaming in a covered wok in favor of a more contemporary technique: the microwave.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Before you shun me, just try it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The fish ends up steaming in its own juices, and soaks up all the great flavor of the seasonings, fresh ginger and scallion.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is one of the first recipes my mom ever taught me, and I love teaching it to newbies because it's shockingly fast, easy, healthy and delicious. With the help of the ol' dinger you can have this dish done from start to finish in 15 minutes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Black Bean Garlic Sauce\u003c/strong> (which is delicious on pork ribs too) and \u003cstrong>Seasoned Soy Sauce for Seafood\u003c/strong> are the secret ingredients worth hunting down for this dish. \u003cstrong>Lee Kum Kee\u003c/strong> is a common brand that makes both products, and they can be found in Chinatown or an Asian-mart like Ranch 99. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Serve the fish over some white jasmine rice or soba noodles and you'll have a light, summer dinner ready in no time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/chinese-sea-bass-004.jpg\" alt=\"cantonese sea bass ingredients\" title=\"cantonese sea bass ingredients\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5254\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Ingredients for Cantonese Sea Bass\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\"Steamed\" Sea Bass, Cantonese Style\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Serves\u003c/strong>: 4\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n4 (6 oz.) Chilean sea bass fillets (or 1 1/2 lb. Chilean sea bass steak, you can commonly find these frozen in Asian-marts, just it thaw out first)\u003cbr>\nPinch of salt and white pepper\u003cbr>\n1 teaspoon cornstarch\u003cbr>\n½ teaspoon black bean garlic sauce (Lee Kum Kee)\u003cbr>\n2-3 slices peeled ginger\u003cbr>\n2-3 pieces scallion\u003cbr>\n1 teaspoon soy sauce for seafood (Lee Kum Kee)\u003cbr>\n1 teaspoon vegetable oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1.\tRinse and pat dry fish.\u003cbr>\n2.\tSprinkle salt, white pepper, and cornstarch on both sides.\u003cbr>\n3.\tCoat all over with black bean garlic sauce.\u003cbr>\n4.\tJulienne the slices of ginger; place on top of fish.\u003cbr>\n5.\tRemove the wilted tops and root ends of the scallion. Make a slit, splitting the bottom white part lengthwise. Cut on the bias in 2 inch pieces. The pieces will look large, but don't worry, they will shrink when you cook it; place on top of fish.\u003cbr>\n6.\tDrizzle the soy sauce and vegetable oil on top.\u003cbr>\n7.\tCover with plastic wrap and microwave for about 8 minutes. \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Red Crawfish",
"title": "Red Crawfish",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/crawfish_bag.jpg\" alt=\"crawfish_bag\" title=\"crawfish_bag\" width=\"500\" height=\"332\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5095\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of my favorite culinary mash-ups of recent years is the Vietnamese-Chinese-Cajun crawfish boil served with rice or garlic noodles. Following the arc of families moving from Vietnam to New Orleans to Southern California to, finally, San Jose and San Francisco, mud bugs have taken a garlicky turn and shown up, of all places, in Little Saigon's across the country. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://redcrawfishsf.com/\">Red Crawfish\u003c/a>\u003c/strong> in San Francisco's Tenderloin is the one closest and dearest to me, as I head over that way anytime I'm craving familiar, comforting flavors. Boiled crawfish is a new tradition among my peeps, but it's one that I'm very happy to adopt, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Eating here is a dress-down, messy affair that requires friends with absolutely no pretensions about food. The red, steaming, spicy crawfish come out from the kitchen in pails and are plopped down on the paper-topped table inside plastic bags, rather than piled right on the table, to hold in all that the thick, rich broth. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/crawfish_fries.jpg\" alt=\"crawfish fries\" title=\"crawfish fries\" width=\"500\" height=\"332\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5096\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I love very spicy food and found that the medium was just fine for me. If you're hungry and a bit of a glutton, you could eat two pounds of crawfish with nothing else, but it's definitely hard to resist popular side orders like batter-fried sweet potatoes, buttery garlic noodles, buttery garlic toast, or just plain rice. You can also order potatoes and corn on the cob, and they'll throw them right in with the crawfish. If you don't \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xT9mkqpfwlQ&feature=related\">\u003cstrong>suck the heads\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> (and the purists among us would insist that you do), you should at least order some garlic noodles or a bowl of rice for soaking up all the juicy goodness that spurts out of each one. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are other entrees on \u003ca href=\"http://redcrawfishsf.com/menu.html\">\u003cstrong>the Red Crawfish's menu\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> -- the usual suspects of Vietnamese fare dominates over the Cajun influence -- but I haven't yet strayed far from the namesake of the restaurant. The huge bowl of spicy seafood soup is definitely worth sharing, while next on my list is one of my favorite dishes, bun rieu, seafood and tomato-tinged broth served over rice noodles.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/crawfish_soup.jpg\" alt=\"crawfish soup\" title=\"crawfish soup\" width=\"500\" height=\"332\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5101\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the DIY folks, there's also plenty of local crawfish harvested from the Sacramento Delta and from California's rice fields. Although the \u003ca href=\"http://www.crawdadfestival.org/\">\u003cstrong>Isleton Crawdad Festival\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> was canceled last month, another victim of the recession, you can still pick up live mud bugs (more for the rest of us!) from Bob's Bait Shop a.k.a. \u003ca href=\"http://themasterbaiter.tripod.com/\">\u003cstrong>The Master Baiter\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>. Located near the Sacramento Delta and the premier sources of live bait in the area, the shop also provides local crawfish for cooks picky about freshness. Be sure to call in advance, especially if you need more than 15 pounds. Check also with large Asian supermarkets near you, especially \u003ca href=\"http://www.99ranch.com/StoreLocator.asp?Store=All\">\u003cstrong>99 Ranch Market\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>, where crawfish can often be found crawling around live in the tanks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Those of us who have no shame will even ask the server at Red Crawfish to leave all the shells on the table so that, at the end of the meal, we can bag them up, spices and all, to make a very tasty stock back at home. Add some \u003ca href=\"http://hubpages.com/hub/How-to-Make-the-Cajun-Trinity\">\u003cstrong>Cajun trinity\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>, some dark roux, stir in a little heavy cream and lots of dry sherry, pull out a blender and a mesh strainer -- and you have a pot of mighty tasty soup.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://redcrawfishsf.com/\">RED CRAWFISH\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n611 Larkin Street\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94109\u003cbr>\n(415) 771-1388\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=red+crawfish&sll=37.784808,-122.417092&sspn=0.008488,0.006899&ie=UTF8&z=17&iwloc=A\">\u003cstrong>Map\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://themasterbaiter.tripod.com/\">BOB'S BAIT SHOP\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n302 2nd Street\u003cbr>\nIsleton, CA 95641\u003cbr>\n(916) 777-6666 or (916) 777-6806\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://maps.google.com/maps?ie=UTF8&q=map+302+2nd+Street,+isleton+california&fb=1&split=1&gl=us&cid=0,0,12326650582303194107&ei=24ZRSqmbKoeeswOd1vCqDQ&z=16&iwloc=A\">Map\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/crawfish_shells.jpg\" alt=\"crawfish shells\" title=\"crawfish shells\" width=\"500\" height=\"332\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5099\">\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "One of my favorite culinary mash-ups of recent years is the Vietnamese-Chinese-Cajun crawfish boil served with rice or garlic noodles. Following the arc of families moving from Vietnam to New Orleans to Southern California to, finally, San Jose and San Francisco, mud bugs have taken a garlicky turn and shown up, of all places, in Little Saigon's across the country.",
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"description": "One of my favorite culinary mash-ups of recent years is the Vietnamese-Chinese-Cajun crawfish boil served with rice or garlic noodles. Following the arc of families moving from Vietnam to New Orleans to Southern California to, finally, San Jose and San Francisco, mud bugs have taken a garlicky turn and shown up, of all places, in Little Saigon's across the country.",
"title": "Red Crawfish | KQED",
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"headline": "Red Crawfish",
"datePublished": "2009-07-06T07:17:57-07:00",
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"slug": "red-crawfish",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/crawfish_bag.jpg\" alt=\"crawfish_bag\" title=\"crawfish_bag\" width=\"500\" height=\"332\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5095\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of my favorite culinary mash-ups of recent years is the Vietnamese-Chinese-Cajun crawfish boil served with rice or garlic noodles. Following the arc of families moving from Vietnam to New Orleans to Southern California to, finally, San Jose and San Francisco, mud bugs have taken a garlicky turn and shown up, of all places, in Little Saigon's across the country. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://redcrawfishsf.com/\">Red Crawfish\u003c/a>\u003c/strong> in San Francisco's Tenderloin is the one closest and dearest to me, as I head over that way anytime I'm craving familiar, comforting flavors. Boiled crawfish is a new tradition among my peeps, but it's one that I'm very happy to adopt, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Eating here is a dress-down, messy affair that requires friends with absolutely no pretensions about food. The red, steaming, spicy crawfish come out from the kitchen in pails and are plopped down on the paper-topped table inside plastic bags, rather than piled right on the table, to hold in all that the thick, rich broth. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/crawfish_fries.jpg\" alt=\"crawfish fries\" title=\"crawfish fries\" width=\"500\" height=\"332\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5096\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I love very spicy food and found that the medium was just fine for me. If you're hungry and a bit of a glutton, you could eat two pounds of crawfish with nothing else, but it's definitely hard to resist popular side orders like batter-fried sweet potatoes, buttery garlic noodles, buttery garlic toast, or just plain rice. You can also order potatoes and corn on the cob, and they'll throw them right in with the crawfish. If you don't \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xT9mkqpfwlQ&feature=related\">\u003cstrong>suck the heads\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> (and the purists among us would insist that you do), you should at least order some garlic noodles or a bowl of rice for soaking up all the juicy goodness that spurts out of each one. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are other entrees on \u003ca href=\"http://redcrawfishsf.com/menu.html\">\u003cstrong>the Red Crawfish's menu\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> -- the usual suspects of Vietnamese fare dominates over the Cajun influence -- but I haven't yet strayed far from the namesake of the restaurant. The huge bowl of spicy seafood soup is definitely worth sharing, while next on my list is one of my favorite dishes, bun rieu, seafood and tomato-tinged broth served over rice noodles.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/crawfish_soup.jpg\" alt=\"crawfish soup\" title=\"crawfish soup\" width=\"500\" height=\"332\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5101\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the DIY folks, there's also plenty of local crawfish harvested from the Sacramento Delta and from California's rice fields. Although the \u003ca href=\"http://www.crawdadfestival.org/\">\u003cstrong>Isleton Crawdad Festival\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> was canceled last month, another victim of the recession, you can still pick up live mud bugs (more for the rest of us!) from Bob's Bait Shop a.k.a. \u003ca href=\"http://themasterbaiter.tripod.com/\">\u003cstrong>The Master Baiter\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>. Located near the Sacramento Delta and the premier sources of live bait in the area, the shop also provides local crawfish for cooks picky about freshness. Be sure to call in advance, especially if you need more than 15 pounds. Check also with large Asian supermarkets near you, especially \u003ca href=\"http://www.99ranch.com/StoreLocator.asp?Store=All\">\u003cstrong>99 Ranch Market\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>, where crawfish can often be found crawling around live in the tanks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Those of us who have no shame will even ask the server at Red Crawfish to leave all the shells on the table so that, at the end of the meal, we can bag them up, spices and all, to make a very tasty stock back at home. Add some \u003ca href=\"http://hubpages.com/hub/How-to-Make-the-Cajun-Trinity\">\u003cstrong>Cajun trinity\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>, some dark roux, stir in a little heavy cream and lots of dry sherry, pull out a blender and a mesh strainer -- and you have a pot of mighty tasty soup.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://redcrawfishsf.com/\">RED CRAWFISH\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n611 Larkin Street\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94109\u003cbr>\n(415) 771-1388\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=red+crawfish&sll=37.784808,-122.417092&sspn=0.008488,0.006899&ie=UTF8&z=17&iwloc=A\">\u003cstrong>Map\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://themasterbaiter.tripod.com/\">BOB'S BAIT SHOP\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n302 2nd Street\u003cbr>\nIsleton, CA 95641\u003cbr>\n(916) 777-6666 or (916) 777-6806\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://maps.google.com/maps?ie=UTF8&q=map+302+2nd+Street,+isleton+california&fb=1&split=1&gl=us&cid=0,0,12326650582303194107&ei=24ZRSqmbKoeeswOd1vCqDQ&z=16&iwloc=A\">Map\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/crawfish_shells.jpg\" alt=\"crawfish shells\" title=\"crawfish shells\" width=\"500\" height=\"332\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5099\">\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"tagline": "Where conversation and cultura meet",
"info": "What kind of no sabo word is Hyphenación? For us, it’s about living within a hyphenation. Like being a third-gen Mexican-American from the Texas border now living that Bay Area Chicano life. Like Xorje! Each week we bring together a couple of hyphenated Latinos to talk all about personal life choices: family, careers, relationships, belonging … everything is on the table. ",
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"info": "The Political Mind of Jerry Brown brings listeners the wisdom of the former Governor, Mayor, and presidential candidate. Scott Shafer interviewed Brown for more than 40 hours, covering the former governor's life and half-century in the political game – and Brown has some lessons he'd like to share. ",
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"marketplace": {
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"info": "Our flagship program, helmed by Kai Ryssdal, examines what the day in money delivered, through stories, conversations, newsworthy numbers and more. Updated Monday through Friday at about 3:30 p.m. PT.",
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"info": "The MindShift podcast explores the innovations in education that are shaping how kids learn. Hosts Ki Sung and Katrina Schwartz introduce listeners to educators, researchers, parents and students who are developing effective ways to improve how kids learn. We cover topics like how fed-up administrators are developing surprising tactics to deal with classroom disruptions; how listening to podcasts are helping kids develop reading skills; the consequences of overparenting; and why interdisciplinary learning can engage students on all ends of the traditional achievement spectrum. This podcast is part of the MindShift education site, a division of KQED News. KQED is an NPR/PBS member station based in San Francisco. You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>",
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"order": 12
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"info": "For decades, the process for how police police themselves has been inconsistent – if not opaque. In some states, like California, these proceedings were completely hidden. After a new police transparency law unsealed scores of internal affairs files, our reporters set out to examine these cases and the shadow world of police discipline. On Our Watch brings listeners into the rooms where officers are questioned and witnesses are interrogated to find out who this system is really protecting. Is it the officers, or the public they've sworn to serve?",
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"info": "Our weekly podcast explores how the media 'sausage' is made, casts an incisive eye on fluctuations in the marketplace of ideas, and examines threats to the freedom of information and expression in America and abroad. For one hour a week, the show tries to lift the veil from the process of \"making media,\" especially news media, because it's through that lens that we see the world and the world sees us",
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"planet-money": {
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"info": "The economy explained. Imagine you could call up a friend and say, Meet me at the bar and tell me what's going on with the economy. Now imagine that's actually a fun evening.",
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"politicalbreakdown": {
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"title": "Political Breakdown",
"tagline": "Politics from a personal perspective",
"info": "Political Breakdown is a new series that explores the political intersection of California and the nation. Each week hosts Scott Shafer and Marisa Lagos are joined with a new special guest to unpack politics -- with personality — and offer an insider’s glimpse at how politics happens.",
"airtime": "THU 6:30pm-7pm",
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"possible": {
"id": "possible",
"title": "Possible",
"info": "Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.",
"airtime": "SUN 2pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Possible-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
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"pri-the-world": {
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"title": "PRI's The World: Latest Edition",
"info": "Each weekday, host Marco Werman and his team of producers bring you the world's most interesting stories in an hour of radio that reminds us just how small our planet really is.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 2pm-3pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/The-World-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
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},
"radiolab": {
"id": "radiolab",
"title": "Radiolab",
"info": "A two-time Peabody Award-winner, Radiolab is an investigation told through sounds and stories, and centered around one big idea. In the Radiolab world, information sounds like music and science and culture collide. Hosted by Jad Abumrad and Robert Krulwich, the show is designed for listeners who demand skepticism, but appreciate wonder. WNYC Studios is the producer of other leading podcasts including Freakonomics Radio, Death, Sex & Money, On the Media and many more.",
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},
"reveal": {
"id": "reveal",
"title": "Reveal",
"info": "Created by The Center for Investigative Reporting and PRX, Reveal is public radios first one-hour weekly radio show and podcast dedicated to investigative reporting. Credible, fact based and without a partisan agenda, Reveal combines the power and artistry of driveway moment storytelling with data-rich reporting on critically important issues. The result is stories that inform and inspire, arming our listeners with information to right injustices, hold the powerful accountable and improve lives.Reveal is hosted by Al Letson and showcases the award-winning work of CIR and newsrooms large and small across the nation. In a radio and podcast market crowded with choices, Reveal focuses on important and often surprising stories that illuminate the world for our listeners.",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.revealnews.org/episodes/",
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},
"rightnowish": {
"id": "rightnowish",
"title": "Rightnowish",
"tagline": "Art is where you find it",
"info": "Rightnowish digs into life in the Bay Area right now… ish. Journalist Pendarvis Harshaw takes us to galleries painted on the sides of liquor stores in West Oakland. We'll dance in warehouses in the Bayview, make smoothies with kids in South Berkeley, and listen to classical music in a 1984 Cutlass Supreme in Richmond. Every week, Pen talks to movers and shakers about how the Bay Area shapes what they create, and how they shape the place we call home.",
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"source": "kqed",
"order": 16
},
"link": "/podcasts/rightnowish",
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},
"science-friday": {
"id": "science-friday",
"title": "Science Friday",
"info": "Science Friday is a weekly science talk show, broadcast live over public radio stations nationwide. Each week, the show focuses on science topics that are in the news and tries to bring an educated, balanced discussion to bear on the scientific issues at hand. Panels of expert guests join host Ira Flatow, a veteran science journalist, to discuss science and to take questions from listeners during the call-in portion of the program.",
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},
"snap-judgment": {
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