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"title": "Oakland’s Vegan Barbecue Sensation Is Already Blowing Up in SF",
"headTitle": "Oakland’s Vegan Barbecue Sensation Is Already Blowing Up in SF | KQED",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Ever since it exploded onto the local dining scene in 2019, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://veganmob.biz/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Vegan Mob\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> has been one of the most popular restaurants in Oakland—a bright-green, graffiti-bedecked retro barbecue joint known for its rib tips, brisket-stuffed burritos and garlic noodles. Naturally, everything on the menu is vegan.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Now, rapper-turned-chef Toriano Gordon (a.k.a. \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://soundcloud.com/don-toriano\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Don Toriano\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">) is bringing his meat-free adaptations of familiar soul food and barbecue dishes to San Francisco. Vegan Mob’s new food truck is posting up in the Mission six days a week as part of an all-vegan street food hub Gordon has helped set up at 701 Valencia Street—the \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/citystationsf/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">City Station SF\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> lot, which was already a prime destination for vegan food fans when the popular Filipino-American food truck \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2020/11/6/21551481/senor-sisig-vegano-vegan-food-truck-filipino-burrito-mission-sf\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Señor Sisig set up its new vegan spinoff, Señor Sisig Vegano, there\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Now that the two trucks have teamed up, they’ve created what might be the hottest block on the Bay Area’s vegan food circuit. During Vegan Mob’s March 21 San Francisco debut, Gordon says, the line of customers wrapped all the way around the corner, all day long—notwithstanding the fact that their block on Valencia Street is about three times the length of a typical city block. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Business has stayed about as strong ever since. “We work together,” Gordon says of his collaboration with Señor Sisig co-owner Evan Kidera—a longtime friend from their days in the Bay Area rap scene. And the pair is bringing in other food trucks for guest appearances as well. This past Friday, for instance, Al Papi Pastor, the \u003ca href=\"http://www.instagram.com/p/CNJvkEjsldE/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">popular Mexico City-style taco truck\u003c/a>, was on hand to dish out a special all-vegan menu: burritos stuffed with nopales and jackfruit al pastor.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">For Gordon, launching the food truck was simply the next logical step for his growing business, once he convinced Kidera to sell him one of Señor Sisig’s old trucks. (“I begged him,” Gordon says.) The truck serves a slightly streamlined version of Vegan Mob’s restaurant menu—basically its 10 top sellers, plus Gordon’s newest creation: garlic noodles inspired by his lifelong love of Vietnamese institutions like Thanh Long and Crustacean. Vegan Mob’s garlic noodles don’t have fish sauce, and they’re made with vegan butter and vegan cheese, but Gordon says the noodles have been a runaway hit from the start—especially among his Black customers. “Black people who don’t mess with vegan food come and eat those noodles,” he says. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/CNQTyEPjPSH/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Vegan Mob is part of \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2021/1/8/22219689/senor-sisig-vegano-vegan-oakland-open-spice-monkey\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">a new wave of popular, next-generation vegan food businesses\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> in the Bay Area that includes Señor Sisig Vegano, Lion Dance Cafe, Vegan Hood Chefs and Malibu’s Burgers. They all boast large social media followings (Vegan Mob, for instance, has more than 73,000 followers on \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/officialveganmob/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Instagram\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">) and a diverse customer base. They’re all owned and operated by people of color. And they all have a certain cool factor that’s reflected in how successful they’ve been, even beyond the deliciousness of the food itself. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Gordon credits the rapper Nipsey Hussle, \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13854043/when-nipsey-hussle-brought-his-marathon-mindset-to-oakland\">who was shot and killed almost exactly two years ago\u003c/a>, for helping to raise awareness of—and establishing a kind of “street cred” for—the vegan lifestyle. And Gordon believes Vegan Mob has played a large part in that as well. “I really am from the streets,” he says, noting that his father was in prison for 27 years, and that he himself nearly died of septic shock after mixing morphine, alcohol and weed.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">“I feel like God kept me on earth for a reason,” Gordon says. “I changed my life to come to school, to become this. To show the Black community and communities of color that it’s cool to be healthy—to be a role model to the ones younger than me, that you can have a business like this.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">“My following is a lot of non-vegans who are African American, Latino, Filipino, and Pacific Islander. They come up to me and say, ‘Hey, your food is making me go vegan.’” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/CMRP37csjZG/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">As excited as he is about his newfound success in the city, Gordon says he feels hurt that some customers have accused him of abandoning Oakland for brighter lights on the other side of the Bay. Notwithstanding the fact that he’s \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">from \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">San Francisco, the Fillmore native says, “I’m not going nowhere. We’re expanding, we’re not leaving.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">The problem is that as much as he loves his current location in Oakland at the former Kwik-Way, near the shores of Lake Merritt, the building’s long-term future is very much an open question. For years now, the building has been slated to be torn down and turned into a mixed-use retail facility or, more recently, an \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://blog.sfgate.com/inoakland/2019/09/20/iconic-kwik-way-drive-in-site-to-become-affordable-housing-in-grand-lake-neighborhood/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">affordable housing complex\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">. Time and time again, those plans have gotten waylaid: Originally, Gordon says, Vegan Mob was supposed to vacate the building this month, but the landlords now say he can stay until this coming January.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">So, Gordon is already plotting his next moves: In addition to a new \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://sj.veganmob.biz/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">virtual kitchen operation that he’s set up in San Jose, for pickup and delivery only\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">, Gordon is currently in talks with his friend and mentor GW Chew about taking over the space currently occupied by Chew’s own vegan soul food restaurant, the \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/checkplease/19999/check-please-bay-area-kids-review-antipastos-the-veg-hub-cocos-ramen\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Veg Hub\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">, in Oakland’s Dimond district. If it works out, Gordon would move Vegan Mob there, joining a cluster of popular restaurants owned by people of color, including the new Puerto Rican spot La Perla, the soul food restaurant Southern Cafe, and Dimond Slice Pizza—all restaurants that are helping to turn the neighborhood into a cool food hub while still preserving Oakland’s authentic, homegrown culture, Gordon says.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">“I’m convinced if I left Oakland, God would punish me,” Gordon says, noting that Oakland is where Vegan Mob had its first successes. “That would literally be forgetting where I came from.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Vegan Mob’s San Francisco food truck operates Tuesday through Saturday, 5pm–9pm, and Sunday, 11am–5pm; the \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://sj.veganmob.biz/\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">San Jose cloud kitchen\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> operation offers takeout and delivery Tuesday through Sunday, 11am–9pm. For updates, follow Vegan Mob on \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/officialveganmob/\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Instagram\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Ever since it exploded onto the local dining scene in 2019, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://veganmob.biz/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Vegan Mob\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> has been one of the most popular restaurants in Oakland—a bright-green, graffiti-bedecked retro barbecue joint known for its rib tips, brisket-stuffed burritos and garlic noodles. Naturally, everything on the menu is vegan.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Now, rapper-turned-chef Toriano Gordon (a.k.a. \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://soundcloud.com/don-toriano\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Don Toriano\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">) is bringing his meat-free adaptations of familiar soul food and barbecue dishes to San Francisco. Vegan Mob’s new food truck is posting up in the Mission six days a week as part of an all-vegan street food hub Gordon has helped set up at 701 Valencia Street—the \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/citystationsf/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">City Station SF\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> lot, which was already a prime destination for vegan food fans when the popular Filipino-American food truck \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2020/11/6/21551481/senor-sisig-vegano-vegan-food-truck-filipino-burrito-mission-sf\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Señor Sisig set up its new vegan spinoff, Señor Sisig Vegano, there\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Now that the two trucks have teamed up, they’ve created what might be the hottest block on the Bay Area’s vegan food circuit. During Vegan Mob’s March 21 San Francisco debut, Gordon says, the line of customers wrapped all the way around the corner, all day long—notwithstanding the fact that their block on Valencia Street is about three times the length of a typical city block. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Business has stayed about as strong ever since. “We work together,” Gordon says of his collaboration with Señor Sisig co-owner Evan Kidera—a longtime friend from their days in the Bay Area rap scene. And the pair is bringing in other food trucks for guest appearances as well. This past Friday, for instance, Al Papi Pastor, the \u003ca href=\"http://www.instagram.com/p/CNJvkEjsldE/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">popular Mexico City-style taco truck\u003c/a>, was on hand to dish out a special all-vegan menu: burritos stuffed with nopales and jackfruit al pastor.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">For Gordon, launching the food truck was simply the next logical step for his growing business, once he convinced Kidera to sell him one of Señor Sisig’s old trucks. (“I begged him,” Gordon says.) The truck serves a slightly streamlined version of Vegan Mob’s restaurant menu—basically its 10 top sellers, plus Gordon’s newest creation: garlic noodles inspired by his lifelong love of Vietnamese institutions like Thanh Long and Crustacean. Vegan Mob’s garlic noodles don’t have fish sauce, and they’re made with vegan butter and vegan cheese, but Gordon says the noodles have been a runaway hit from the start—especially among his Black customers. “Black people who don’t mess with vegan food come and eat those noodles,” he says. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Vegan Mob is part of \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2021/1/8/22219689/senor-sisig-vegano-vegan-oakland-open-spice-monkey\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">a new wave of popular, next-generation vegan food businesses\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> in the Bay Area that includes Señor Sisig Vegano, Lion Dance Cafe, Vegan Hood Chefs and Malibu’s Burgers. They all boast large social media followings (Vegan Mob, for instance, has more than 73,000 followers on \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/officialveganmob/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Instagram\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">) and a diverse customer base. They’re all owned and operated by people of color. And they all have a certain cool factor that’s reflected in how successful they’ve been, even beyond the deliciousness of the food itself. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Gordon credits the rapper Nipsey Hussle, \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13854043/when-nipsey-hussle-brought-his-marathon-mindset-to-oakland\">who was shot and killed almost exactly two years ago\u003c/a>, for helping to raise awareness of—and establishing a kind of “street cred” for—the vegan lifestyle. And Gordon believes Vegan Mob has played a large part in that as well. “I really am from the streets,” he says, noting that his father was in prison for 27 years, and that he himself nearly died of septic shock after mixing morphine, alcohol and weed.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">“I feel like God kept me on earth for a reason,” Gordon says. “I changed my life to come to school, to become this. To show the Black community and communities of color that it’s cool to be healthy—to be a role model to the ones younger than me, that you can have a business like this.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">“My following is a lot of non-vegans who are African American, Latino, Filipino, and Pacific Islander. They come up to me and say, ‘Hey, your food is making me go vegan.’” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">As excited as he is about his newfound success in the city, Gordon says he feels hurt that some customers have accused him of abandoning Oakland for brighter lights on the other side of the Bay. Notwithstanding the fact that he’s \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">from \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">San Francisco, the Fillmore native says, “I’m not going nowhere. We’re expanding, we’re not leaving.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">The problem is that as much as he loves his current location in Oakland at the former Kwik-Way, near the shores of Lake Merritt, the building’s long-term future is very much an open question. For years now, the building has been slated to be torn down and turned into a mixed-use retail facility or, more recently, an \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://blog.sfgate.com/inoakland/2019/09/20/iconic-kwik-way-drive-in-site-to-become-affordable-housing-in-grand-lake-neighborhood/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">affordable housing complex\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">. Time and time again, those plans have gotten waylaid: Originally, Gordon says, Vegan Mob was supposed to vacate the building this month, but the landlords now say he can stay until this coming January.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">So, Gordon is already plotting his next moves: In addition to a new \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://sj.veganmob.biz/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">virtual kitchen operation that he’s set up in San Jose, for pickup and delivery only\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">, Gordon is currently in talks with his friend and mentor GW Chew about taking over the space currently occupied by Chew’s own vegan soul food restaurant, the \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/checkplease/19999/check-please-bay-area-kids-review-antipastos-the-veg-hub-cocos-ramen\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Veg Hub\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">, in Oakland’s Dimond district. If it works out, Gordon would move Vegan Mob there, joining a cluster of popular restaurants owned by people of color, including the new Puerto Rican spot La Perla, the soul food restaurant Southern Cafe, and Dimond Slice Pizza—all restaurants that are helping to turn the neighborhood into a cool food hub while still preserving Oakland’s authentic, homegrown culture, Gordon says.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">“I’m convinced if I left Oakland, God would punish me,” Gordon says, noting that Oakland is where Vegan Mob had its first successes. “That would literally be forgetting where I came from.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Vegan Mob’s San Francisco food truck operates Tuesday through Saturday, 5pm–9pm, and Sunday, 11am–5pm; the \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://sj.veganmob.biz/\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">San Jose cloud kitchen\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> operation offers takeout and delivery Tuesday through Sunday, 11am–9pm. For updates, follow Vegan Mob on \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/officialveganmob/\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Instagram\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "Jerk Chicken Tacos, Algerian Couscous Arrive in the Tenderloin's New Women-Led Food Hall",
"headTitle": "Jerk Chicken Tacos, Algerian Couscous Arrive in the Tenderloin’s New Women-Led Food Hall | KQED",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[dropcap]A[/dropcap]lmost five years have passed since \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://lacocinasf.org/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">La Cocina\u003c/span>\u003c/a>, a\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> nonprofit kitchen incubator, announced plans for a massive, first-of-its-kind food hall in the Tenderloin—the first in the country entirely \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2020/2/13/21135611/la-cocina-marketplace-week-of-women-in-food-chefs\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">led by, and centered on, women of color\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. And nearly a year has gone by since the COVID-19 crisis \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/21272713/food-halls-sf-la-cocina-oakland-assembly-coronavirus\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">derailed the project’s plans to open last summer\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">But now the moment has finally come: On Monday, the 7,000-square-foot \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://lacocinamarketplace.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">La Cocina Municipal Marketplace\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> will open its doors for thrillingly diverse lunchtime takeout service: pupusas, tacos de guisado, Algerian-style couscous and California-Creole jerk chicken tacos.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">La Cocina conceived of the food hall as a new platform for its women- and immigrant-focused incubator program. The chefs for the six kiosks that are opening on Monday are all women of color who graduated from that program. For several of the businesses, the food hall represents their first physical storefront. And beyond that, the 101 Hyde Street project is also meant to serve as a model for community-led development—to be an economic engine and a spark of revitalization for \u003ca href=\"https://www.ktvu.com/news/troubled-tenderloin-corner-aims-to-become-temporary-foodie-destination\">one of the more troubled blocks in the Tenderloin\u003c/a>.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13895088\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13895088\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/La-Cocina-Marketplace_Main_ERIN-NG-800x450.jpg\" alt=\"Interior of the La Cocina Municipal Marketplace, with decorative pots and pans hanging on the wall.\" width=\"800\" height=\"450\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/La-Cocina-Marketplace_Main_ERIN-NG-800x450.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/La-Cocina-Marketplace_Main_ERIN-NG-1020x574.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/La-Cocina-Marketplace_Main_ERIN-NG-160x90.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/La-Cocina-Marketplace_Main_ERIN-NG-768x432.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/La-Cocina-Marketplace_Main_ERIN-NG.jpg 1296w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The La Cocina Municipal Marketplace is only open for takeout for now. \u003ccite>(Erin Ng)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The lineup of restaurants includes \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://lacocinamarketplace.menu/bougcali/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Boug Cali\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> (California Creole), \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://lacocinamarketplace.menu/estrellitasnacks/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Estrellita’s Snacks\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> (Salvadoran), \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://lacocinamarketplace.menu/kayma/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Kayma\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> (Algerian), \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://lacocinamarketplace.menu/loscilantros/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Los Cilantros\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> (Mexican), \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://lacocinamarketplace.menu/mimorena/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Mi Morena\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> (Mexican) and \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://lacocinamarketplace.menu/teranga/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Terenga\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> (Senegalese). When indoor service launches—probably at some point during the summer—a seventh kiosk, the Nepalese momo specialist \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://biniskitchen.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Bini’s Kitchen\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, will open, along with a cocktail bar called La Paloma. Taken all together, the food hall spans a wide range of cuisines and cultures, including several that have been largely underrepresented in the Bay Area restaurant scene.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[dropcap]W[/dropcap]afa Bahloul, who runs Kayma along with her husband Mounir, tells KQED that she was working as a cook at Navi Kitchen, Preeti Mistry’s Indian pizza restaurant in Emeryville, when Mistry encouraged her to sign up for the incubator program. (Mistry, for her part, calls Bahloul a “rockstar,” and credits her with perfecting the restaurant’s popular pork-based breakfast burger—despite not eating pork herself.) \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13895092\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13895092\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/LCMM_Wafa-Mounir-Bahloul-800x1000.jpg\" alt=\"Wafa (left) and Mounir Bahloul pose inside the La Cocina Municipal Marketplace\" width=\"800\" height=\"1000\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/LCMM_Wafa-Mounir-Bahloul-800x1000.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/LCMM_Wafa-Mounir-Bahloul-160x200.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/LCMM_Wafa-Mounir-Bahloul-768x960.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/LCMM_Wafa-Mounir-Bahloul.jpg 816w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Wafa (left) and Mounir Bahloul started Kayma to introduce the Bay Area to traditional Algerian cuisine. \u003ccite>(Erin Ng)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Her new business, Kayma, serves very traditional Algerian food, from the family-style way that they serve their couscous to the ras el hanout spice mix that Bahloul assembles using 30 different spices. There are a few California touches too, like the Dutch crunch bread she uses for her saucy merguez sausage sandwich.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Last March, the Bahlouls had just decided to launch a new food trailer at the same time as the Marketplace kiosk, and wound up scuttling those plans when the pandemic hit. In some sense, they were lucky: The shutdown happened before they spent the money they’d planned to invest in those projects. Still, Bahloul says, the past year has been incredibly stressful: “For me, the most scary thing is I don’t have a family here. It’s just me and my husband and our two daughters. If I get sick, who will take care of them?” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For Boug Cali’s Tiffany Carter, the delay was a mixed blessing. She says she was able to use the last year to really slow down and perfect her menu—which, Carter says, largely consisted of freeing herself of any expectation that her California Creole style of cooking needed to conform to the type of food you’d find in, say, Louisiana. Now, she’s serving jerk chicken tacos on flour tortillas and adding California flourishes to almost everything on the menu. “I’m probably making ‘inauthentic’ po’boys. I’m a proud San Franciscan,” Carter says. “I don’t think you will find a Golden State Po’boy [with avocado in it] in Louisiana.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13895095\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13895095\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/Jerky-taco_1-800x640.jpg\" alt=\"Overhead view of a jerk chicken taco on a plate, with a wedge of lime on the side\" width=\"800\" height=\"640\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/Jerky-taco_1-800x640.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/Jerky-taco_1-1020x816.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/Jerky-taco_1-160x128.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/Jerky-taco_1-768x614.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/Jerky-taco_1.jpg 1080w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The jerk chicken taco is one of Boug Cali’s newest creations. \u003ccite>(Lorena Masso)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">A San Francisco native who’s lived all over the city, Carter says she’s long wanted to open a restaurant in the Tenderloin. “The Tenderloin deserves something good, too, to have,” she says. “It’s rough around the edges, but I like that.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[dropcap]I[/dropcap]ndeed, there’s no talking about La Cocina’s food hall without noting its location right in the heart of the Tenderloin, a neighborhood that has been the epicenter of the city’s \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/11793607/californias-homelessness-crisis-and-possible-solutions-explained\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">homelessness crisis\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> and \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/11839787/a-recycled-approach-some-sf-leaders-activists-bristle-at-plan-to-ban-dealers-from-tenderloin\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">opioid epidemic\u003c/span>\u003c/a>—all aspects of the neighborhood that are front and center on the specific block where the food hall sits\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. And while other high-profile restaurants have opened in the Tenderloin in recent years, few have embraced the neighborhood in the same way as the La Cocina Municipal Marketplace.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">During a trial run last week, cooks were largely cordoned off in their own stations, assembling sandwiches and packing grain bowls into plastic takeout containers. Customers won’t be allowed inside the space for the time being. But the idea is for the Marketplace to eventually serve as a colorful, bustling community gathering place for the neighborhood, with free internet access and books for kids. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13895091\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13895091\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/LCMM_Communal-Corner-800x450.jpg\" alt=\"A community gathering area, colorfully decorated with curved banquette seating and a photo collage on the wall. \" width=\"800\" height=\"450\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/LCMM_Communal-Corner-800x450.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/LCMM_Communal-Corner-1020x574.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/LCMM_Communal-Corner-160x90.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/LCMM_Communal-Corner-768x432.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/LCMM_Communal-Corner.jpg 1137w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Part of the food hall will function as a communal gathering space. \u003ccite>(Erin Ng)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The idea is not to cloister the food hall’s businesses away from the realities of the neighborhood, says Jay Foster, who manages the Marketplace. Foster is probably best known as the chef-owner of the soul food restaurant Farmerbrown, which had a 13-year run in the Tenderloin before it closed in 2018. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For Foster, La Cocina’s emphasis on helping revitalize the Tenderloin was a big part of what attracted him to the project, which has community outreach built into its business model. That includes hiring people from the neighborhood and partnering with nearby nonprofits to help feed residents who are experiencing food insecurity. Every day, the food hall will offer a $5 meal special, and most dishes on the various kiosks’ menus are in the ballpark of $10. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Changing the community is not pushing everybody out of the community so we can have rich people be comfortable,” Foster says. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13895099\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13895099\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/LCMM-Portraits_Jay-Foster-800x1000.jpg\" alt=\"Jay Foster poses in the La Cocina Municipal Marketplace, arms crossed.\" width=\"800\" height=\"1000\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/LCMM-Portraits_Jay-Foster-800x1000.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/LCMM-Portraits_Jay-Foster-160x200.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/LCMM-Portraits_Jay-Foster-768x960.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/LCMM-Portraits_Jay-Foster.jpg 816w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jay Foster, the manager of the La Cocina Municipal Marketplace, has deep roots in the Tenderloin. \u003ccite>(Erin Ng)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Of course, La Cocina’s other top priority is helping its fledgling food entrepreneurs get their businesses off the ground in a sustainable way. Bahloul and Carter both say La Cocina’s support—which includes distributing nearly a million dollars in \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://lacocinasf.org/relief-fund\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">emergency cash relief\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> to its members—has been invaluable during the pandemic. None of the businesses opening in the Municipal Marketplace have had to pay rent over the course of the long delay, and, while no final decision has been made, Foster says the rent-free arrangement is likely to continue through the end of the 2021 fiscal year. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“We don’t really feel that charging entrepreneurs rent is going to be sustainable for them,” Foster says. “It’s going to be really tough for a while.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[dropcap]E[/dropcap]ven when the kiosks do start having to pay full rent, the rates will be shockingly low by San Francisco standards—about $500 a month, Foster says. All of which to say: During a time when small businesses are particularly vulnerable, La Cocina isn’t your typical landlord. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Those terms are made possible by the unique arrangement that La Cocina has with the city of San Francisco, which owns the 101 Hyde Street building and is leasing it to La Cocina at a steeply discounted rate. What that also means, however, is that the food hall project has a fixed end date from the very start: In December of 2025, the city will begin constructing affordable housing on the site. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“The goal is not to be there forever,” Foster says. “The goal is to create a business model and to be able to demonstrate how to offset the price of gentrification.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">La Cocina’s biggest hope, Foster says, is that other city governments will view La Cocina’s collaboration with San Francisco as a model that they can replicate, setting up similar food halls in vacant buildings to help revitalize struggling neighborhoods. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Instead of giving all this money away in terms of tax breaks to the tech companies, invest in your local community—in your local small business owner,” Foster says. “By creating marketplaces like this, not only can you help people create vibrant businesses, but you can maintain your culture and you can change the community from the ground up.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Meanwhile, entrepreneurs like Kayma’s Bahloul say they’re just grateful to finally be able to open after all those months of waiting—to finally see a light at the end of the tunnel. “La Cocina did everything for me,” she says. “They opened the golden gate for me; they gave me the golden key to open the door. Now it’s time for me to do my part.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Starting on April 5, the La Cocina Municipal Marketplace will be open for takeout only Monday through Friday, 11 a.m.–2:30 p.m. Customers can order via the Marketplace \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://lacocinamarketplace.com/\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">website\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, and pick up their food at the food hall’s side entrance, at 332 Golden Gate Avenue.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "After a yearlong delay, the La Cocina incubator kitchen's multicultural food hall opens on April 5 with a focus on revitalizing the Tenderloin.",
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"description": "After a yearlong delay, the La Cocina incubator kitchen's multicultural food hall opens on April 5 with a focus on revitalizing the Tenderloin.",
"title": "Jerk Chicken Tacos, Algerian Couscous Arrive in the Tenderloin's New Women-Led Food Hall | KQED",
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"headline": "Jerk Chicken Tacos, Algerian Couscous Arrive in the Tenderloin's New Women-Led Food Hall",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class=\"utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__dropcapShortcode__dropcap\">A\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>lmost five years have passed since \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://lacocinasf.org/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">La Cocina\u003c/span>\u003c/a>, a\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> nonprofit kitchen incubator, announced plans for a massive, first-of-its-kind food hall in the Tenderloin—the first in the country entirely \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2020/2/13/21135611/la-cocina-marketplace-week-of-women-in-food-chefs\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">led by, and centered on, women of color\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. And nearly a year has gone by since the COVID-19 crisis \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/21272713/food-halls-sf-la-cocina-oakland-assembly-coronavirus\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">derailed the project’s plans to open last summer\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">But now the moment has finally come: On Monday, the 7,000-square-foot \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://lacocinamarketplace.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">La Cocina Municipal Marketplace\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> will open its doors for thrillingly diverse lunchtime takeout service: pupusas, tacos de guisado, Algerian-style couscous and California-Creole jerk chicken tacos.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">La Cocina conceived of the food hall as a new platform for its women- and immigrant-focused incubator program. The chefs for the six kiosks that are opening on Monday are all women of color who graduated from that program. For several of the businesses, the food hall represents their first physical storefront. And beyond that, the 101 Hyde Street project is also meant to serve as a model for community-led development—to be an economic engine and a spark of revitalization for \u003ca href=\"https://www.ktvu.com/news/troubled-tenderloin-corner-aims-to-become-temporary-foodie-destination\">one of the more troubled blocks in the Tenderloin\u003c/a>.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13895088\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13895088\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/La-Cocina-Marketplace_Main_ERIN-NG-800x450.jpg\" alt=\"Interior of the La Cocina Municipal Marketplace, with decorative pots and pans hanging on the wall.\" width=\"800\" height=\"450\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/La-Cocina-Marketplace_Main_ERIN-NG-800x450.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/La-Cocina-Marketplace_Main_ERIN-NG-1020x574.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/La-Cocina-Marketplace_Main_ERIN-NG-160x90.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/La-Cocina-Marketplace_Main_ERIN-NG-768x432.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/La-Cocina-Marketplace_Main_ERIN-NG.jpg 1296w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The La Cocina Municipal Marketplace is only open for takeout for now. \u003ccite>(Erin Ng)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The lineup of restaurants includes \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://lacocinamarketplace.menu/bougcali/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Boug Cali\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> (California Creole), \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://lacocinamarketplace.menu/estrellitasnacks/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Estrellita’s Snacks\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> (Salvadoran), \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://lacocinamarketplace.menu/kayma/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Kayma\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> (Algerian), \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://lacocinamarketplace.menu/loscilantros/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Los Cilantros\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> (Mexican), \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://lacocinamarketplace.menu/mimorena/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Mi Morena\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> (Mexican) and \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://lacocinamarketplace.menu/teranga/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Terenga\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> (Senegalese). When indoor service launches—probably at some point during the summer—a seventh kiosk, the Nepalese momo specialist \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://biniskitchen.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Bini’s Kitchen\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, will open, along with a cocktail bar called La Paloma. Taken all together, the food hall spans a wide range of cuisines and cultures, including several that have been largely underrepresented in the Bay Area restaurant scene.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class=\"utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__dropcapShortcode__dropcap\">W\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>afa Bahloul, who runs Kayma along with her husband Mounir, tells KQED that she was working as a cook at Navi Kitchen, Preeti Mistry’s Indian pizza restaurant in Emeryville, when Mistry encouraged her to sign up for the incubator program. (Mistry, for her part, calls Bahloul a “rockstar,” and credits her with perfecting the restaurant’s popular pork-based breakfast burger—despite not eating pork herself.) \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13895092\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13895092\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/LCMM_Wafa-Mounir-Bahloul-800x1000.jpg\" alt=\"Wafa (left) and Mounir Bahloul pose inside the La Cocina Municipal Marketplace\" width=\"800\" height=\"1000\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/LCMM_Wafa-Mounir-Bahloul-800x1000.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/LCMM_Wafa-Mounir-Bahloul-160x200.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/LCMM_Wafa-Mounir-Bahloul-768x960.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/LCMM_Wafa-Mounir-Bahloul.jpg 816w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Wafa (left) and Mounir Bahloul started Kayma to introduce the Bay Area to traditional Algerian cuisine. \u003ccite>(Erin Ng)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Her new business, Kayma, serves very traditional Algerian food, from the family-style way that they serve their couscous to the ras el hanout spice mix that Bahloul assembles using 30 different spices. There are a few California touches too, like the Dutch crunch bread she uses for her saucy merguez sausage sandwich.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Last March, the Bahlouls had just decided to launch a new food trailer at the same time as the Marketplace kiosk, and wound up scuttling those plans when the pandemic hit. In some sense, they were lucky: The shutdown happened before they spent the money they’d planned to invest in those projects. Still, Bahloul says, the past year has been incredibly stressful: “For me, the most scary thing is I don’t have a family here. It’s just me and my husband and our two daughters. If I get sick, who will take care of them?” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For Boug Cali’s Tiffany Carter, the delay was a mixed blessing. She says she was able to use the last year to really slow down and perfect her menu—which, Carter says, largely consisted of freeing herself of any expectation that her California Creole style of cooking needed to conform to the type of food you’d find in, say, Louisiana. Now, she’s serving jerk chicken tacos on flour tortillas and adding California flourishes to almost everything on the menu. “I’m probably making ‘inauthentic’ po’boys. I’m a proud San Franciscan,” Carter says. “I don’t think you will find a Golden State Po’boy [with avocado in it] in Louisiana.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13895095\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13895095\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/Jerky-taco_1-800x640.jpg\" alt=\"Overhead view of a jerk chicken taco on a plate, with a wedge of lime on the side\" width=\"800\" height=\"640\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/Jerky-taco_1-800x640.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/Jerky-taco_1-1020x816.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/Jerky-taco_1-160x128.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/Jerky-taco_1-768x614.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/Jerky-taco_1.jpg 1080w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The jerk chicken taco is one of Boug Cali’s newest creations. \u003ccite>(Lorena Masso)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">A San Francisco native who’s lived all over the city, Carter says she’s long wanted to open a restaurant in the Tenderloin. “The Tenderloin deserves something good, too, to have,” she says. “It’s rough around the edges, but I like that.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class=\"utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__dropcapShortcode__dropcap\">I\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>ndeed, there’s no talking about La Cocina’s food hall without noting its location right in the heart of the Tenderloin, a neighborhood that has been the epicenter of the city’s \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/11793607/californias-homelessness-crisis-and-possible-solutions-explained\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">homelessness crisis\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> and \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/11839787/a-recycled-approach-some-sf-leaders-activists-bristle-at-plan-to-ban-dealers-from-tenderloin\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">opioid epidemic\u003c/span>\u003c/a>—all aspects of the neighborhood that are front and center on the specific block where the food hall sits\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. And while other high-profile restaurants have opened in the Tenderloin in recent years, few have embraced the neighborhood in the same way as the La Cocina Municipal Marketplace.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">During a trial run last week, cooks were largely cordoned off in their own stations, assembling sandwiches and packing grain bowls into plastic takeout containers. Customers won’t be allowed inside the space for the time being. But the idea is for the Marketplace to eventually serve as a colorful, bustling community gathering place for the neighborhood, with free internet access and books for kids. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13895091\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13895091\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/LCMM_Communal-Corner-800x450.jpg\" alt=\"A community gathering area, colorfully decorated with curved banquette seating and a photo collage on the wall. \" width=\"800\" height=\"450\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/LCMM_Communal-Corner-800x450.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/LCMM_Communal-Corner-1020x574.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/LCMM_Communal-Corner-160x90.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/LCMM_Communal-Corner-768x432.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/LCMM_Communal-Corner.jpg 1137w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Part of the food hall will function as a communal gathering space. \u003ccite>(Erin Ng)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The idea is not to cloister the food hall’s businesses away from the realities of the neighborhood, says Jay Foster, who manages the Marketplace. Foster is probably best known as the chef-owner of the soul food restaurant Farmerbrown, which had a 13-year run in the Tenderloin before it closed in 2018. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For Foster, La Cocina’s emphasis on helping revitalize the Tenderloin was a big part of what attracted him to the project, which has community outreach built into its business model. That includes hiring people from the neighborhood and partnering with nearby nonprofits to help feed residents who are experiencing food insecurity. Every day, the food hall will offer a $5 meal special, and most dishes on the various kiosks’ menus are in the ballpark of $10. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Changing the community is not pushing everybody out of the community so we can have rich people be comfortable,” Foster says. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13895099\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13895099\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/LCMM-Portraits_Jay-Foster-800x1000.jpg\" alt=\"Jay Foster poses in the La Cocina Municipal Marketplace, arms crossed.\" width=\"800\" height=\"1000\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/LCMM-Portraits_Jay-Foster-800x1000.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/LCMM-Portraits_Jay-Foster-160x200.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/LCMM-Portraits_Jay-Foster-768x960.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/LCMM-Portraits_Jay-Foster.jpg 816w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jay Foster, the manager of the La Cocina Municipal Marketplace, has deep roots in the Tenderloin. \u003ccite>(Erin Ng)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Of course, La Cocina’s other top priority is helping its fledgling food entrepreneurs get their businesses off the ground in a sustainable way. Bahloul and Carter both say La Cocina’s support—which includes distributing nearly a million dollars in \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://lacocinasf.org/relief-fund\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">emergency cash relief\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> to its members—has been invaluable during the pandemic. None of the businesses opening in the Municipal Marketplace have had to pay rent over the course of the long delay, and, while no final decision has been made, Foster says the rent-free arrangement is likely to continue through the end of the 2021 fiscal year. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“We don’t really feel that charging entrepreneurs rent is going to be sustainable for them,” Foster says. “It’s going to be really tough for a while.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class=\"utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__dropcapShortcode__dropcap\">E\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>ven when the kiosks do start having to pay full rent, the rates will be shockingly low by San Francisco standards—about $500 a month, Foster says. All of which to say: During a time when small businesses are particularly vulnerable, La Cocina isn’t your typical landlord. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Those terms are made possible by the unique arrangement that La Cocina has with the city of San Francisco, which owns the 101 Hyde Street building and is leasing it to La Cocina at a steeply discounted rate. What that also means, however, is that the food hall project has a fixed end date from the very start: In December of 2025, the city will begin constructing affordable housing on the site. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“The goal is not to be there forever,” Foster says. “The goal is to create a business model and to be able to demonstrate how to offset the price of gentrification.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">La Cocina’s biggest hope, Foster says, is that other city governments will view La Cocina’s collaboration with San Francisco as a model that they can replicate, setting up similar food halls in vacant buildings to help revitalize struggling neighborhoods. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Instead of giving all this money away in terms of tax breaks to the tech companies, invest in your local community—in your local small business owner,” Foster says. “By creating marketplaces like this, not only can you help people create vibrant businesses, but you can maintain your culture and you can change the community from the ground up.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Meanwhile, entrepreneurs like Kayma’s Bahloul say they’re just grateful to finally be able to open after all those months of waiting—to finally see a light at the end of the tunnel. “La Cocina did everything for me,” she says. “They opened the golden gate for me; they gave me the golden key to open the door. Now it’s time for me to do my part.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Starting on April 5, the La Cocina Municipal Marketplace will be open for takeout only Monday through Friday, 11 a.m.–2:30 p.m. Customers can order via the Marketplace \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://lacocinamarketplace.com/\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">website\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, and pick up their food at the food hall’s side entrance, at 332 Golden Gate Avenue.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "One of SF’s Most Popular Ramen Shops Reopens After an Eight-Month Hiatus",
"headTitle": "One of SF’s Most Popular Ramen Shops Reopens After an Eight-Month Hiatus | KQED",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Back in the before times, prior to the pandemic, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.mensho.tokyo/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Mensho Tokyo\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> was best known for having some of the longest lines in San Francisco, and for good reason: It was a legit ramen shop from a legit ramen master, Tomoharu Shono, who’d already made a name for himself in Tokyo. Its signature dish was probably the richest—and, arguably, the most delicious—tori paitan style ramen in the Bay Area, featuring a creamy-white, chicken-based broth so thick with fat and collagen that it almost drank more like a gravy than a soup. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For the past eight months, however, Mensho Tokyo has been fully closed, with its windows boarded up. Until this past weekend, that is, when the Tenderloin restaurant \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/CMsKTf2g_Hv/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">quietly reopened\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> as a “secret temporary pop-up” called “Ura Mensho,” serving just 30 bowls of ramen a night to start out. For the time being, it’s seating dine-in customers only, Wednesday through Sunday from 5–9 p.m.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Shono, who flew in from Japan a few weeks ago to gear up for the reopening, doesn’t plan on stopping there. Within the next month, he’ll also open the \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/menyashonosr/posts/118359730070501\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">first U.S. outpost of Menya Shono\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, his flagship ramen restaurant in Tokyo, in San Rafael—the company’s first North Bay offshoot. Then, as early as this summer, its \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2019/12/16/21024778/mid-market-food-hall-twitter-building-mensho-tokyo-hot-bird\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">long-awaited kiosk in the new Twitter building food hall\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> at 1355 Market Street is expected to open.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13894853\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13894853\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/mensho_line-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"Chef and co-owner Tomoharu Shono (right) talks to customers waiting in line to eat at Mensho Tokyo.\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/mensho_line-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/mensho_line-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/mensho_line-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/mensho_line-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/mensho_line-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/mensho_line.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef and co-owner Tomoharu Shono (right) talks to customers lined up to eat at his newly reopened restaurant \u003ccite>(Abram Plaut)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Co-owner Abram Plaut, a longtime \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.vice.com/en/article/ype4x7/how-two-us-noodle-fiends-infiltrated-the-inner-circle-of-tokyo-ramen\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Tokyo-based ramen critic\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> (and Bay Area native) who partnered with Shono to open the SF outpost of Mensho Tokyo in 2016, says part of the reason they decided not to stay open through the pandemic was because the restaurant’s manager at the time had to return to Japan due to a family emergency. But the broader issue, Plaut says, is that ramen just isn’t a dish that’s very conducive to takeout. Yes, you can pack the soup separately from the toppings and noodles, but a proper bowl of ramen is such a precise orchestration of multiple components—the soup, tare (concentrated sauce), noodles, toppings, and fat—all of which need to be served at just the right temperature. “If you even let a bowl of ramen sit for 10 minutes, the noodles start to become soggy and soft; the fat starts to solidify and separate from the soup,” Plaut says. “It’s like you lose that magic.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">As a result, during the brief one- or two-month period when Mensho did offer takeout ramen kits, they came with so many different components for customers to reheat that it was almost like they were cooking the meal themselves. But while Mensho Tokyo won’t do takeout in its initial batch of offerings, Plaut says Shono has spent the better part of the past year working on developing more takeout- and delivery-friendly ramen, which the restaurant will unveil in the coming weeks. In part, that means experimenting with different kinds of noodles that better retain their texture.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“It would be easy to put the same ramen we serve at the store in paper containers and hand it over to customers, but we don’t do that,” Shono said in an email, via a translator. “Our mission is to keep the quality high and spread genuine ramen, thus we are developing noodles that can maintain their deliciousness over longer periods of time.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13894854\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13894854\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/mensho_mazesoba-800x474.jpg\" alt=\"The different ingredients that go into Mensho Tokyo's vegan mazusoba (soupless ramen) arranged in the bowl before mixing.\" width=\"800\" height=\"474\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/mensho_mazesoba-800x474.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/mensho_mazesoba-1020x605.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/mensho_mazesoba-160x95.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/mensho_mazesoba-768x455.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/mensho_mazesoba-1536x910.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/mensho_mazesoba.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The vegan mazesoba, or soupless ramen, features fried enoki mushroom “chashu.”\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Ura,” in Japanese, refers to something that’s secret or on the “reverse side,” Plaut says, noting that the advantage of reopening with the new “Ura Mensho” brand name for now is that it gives the restaurant license to experiment with new dishes. In part, that’s meant the addition of a number of new vegan options, including a vegan tantanmen and a vegan mazesoba—or soupless ramen—that features a take on “chashu” that’s made with the thickly sliced base of a stalk of enoki mushrooms. Even the classic tori paitan ramen has been tweaked.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The reopening has not come without its share of challenges. Every day, Plaut says, DoorDash drivers have arrived during lunchtime to pick up orders from a now-nonexistent menu that only ran for a month near the start of the pandemic—even though Mensho Tokyo never asked to reactivate its DoorDash account, and despite the restaurant having otherwise been a dine-in and dinner-only restaurant for the entirety of its existence. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Even accounting for the necessary social distancing measures, which will cap the restaurant’s indoor capacity at 15 diners, Plaut says the idea is to stay true to Mensho Tokyo’s original mission, which was to create a ramen experience that was as close as possible to what you’d find in Japan. In part, that means no preordering and no reservations—and yes, the long lines that come with that approach. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The restaurant has also applied for permission to add outdoor seating, and while Plaut says they aren’t sure yet if they’ll go ahead with the plan, Shono has been tinkering with the idea of setting up an outside \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://worldarchitecture.org/architecture-news/epccg/in-japan-yatai-foodcart-is-enjoying-its-revival.html\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Japanese-style yatai, or street cart\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, to serve ramen the way it was traditionally served in its earliest days in Japan.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Meanwhile, Mensho Tokyo is gearing up for a significant Bay Area expansion. The opening of its long-awaited Twitter building location is dependent on when the food hall itself is ready to open, but Plaut says that it should happen sometime this year—perhaps as early as June. And Menya Shono, the first U.S. franchise location for Shono’s flagship restaurant in Tokyo, should be ready to open at 908 4th Street in downtown San Rafael in the next three weeks. Instead of the tori paitan style, the focus at the new restaurant will be on soups made with pork bones, with prices a little bit more affordable than they are at Mensho Tokyo.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Mensho Tokyo is located at 672 Geary Street in San Francisco. Its current hours are Wednesday through Sunday, 5–9 p.m., indoor dine-in service only. For current updates, follow chef Tomoharu Shono on \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/menya_shono/?hl=en\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Instagram\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Mensho Tokyo's owners are also gearing up to open a new location in San Rafael, as well as an outpost in the new Twitter building food hall.",
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"headline": "One of SF’s Most Popular Ramen Shops Reopens After an Eight-Month Hiatus",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Back in the before times, prior to the pandemic, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.mensho.tokyo/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Mensho Tokyo\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> was best known for having some of the longest lines in San Francisco, and for good reason: It was a legit ramen shop from a legit ramen master, Tomoharu Shono, who’d already made a name for himself in Tokyo. Its signature dish was probably the richest—and, arguably, the most delicious—tori paitan style ramen in the Bay Area, featuring a creamy-white, chicken-based broth so thick with fat and collagen that it almost drank more like a gravy than a soup. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For the past eight months, however, Mensho Tokyo has been fully closed, with its windows boarded up. Until this past weekend, that is, when the Tenderloin restaurant \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/CMsKTf2g_Hv/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">quietly reopened\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> as a “secret temporary pop-up” called “Ura Mensho,” serving just 30 bowls of ramen a night to start out. For the time being, it’s seating dine-in customers only, Wednesday through Sunday from 5–9 p.m.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Shono, who flew in from Japan a few weeks ago to gear up for the reopening, doesn’t plan on stopping there. Within the next month, he’ll also open the \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/menyashonosr/posts/118359730070501\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">first U.S. outpost of Menya Shono\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, his flagship ramen restaurant in Tokyo, in San Rafael—the company’s first North Bay offshoot. Then, as early as this summer, its \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2019/12/16/21024778/mid-market-food-hall-twitter-building-mensho-tokyo-hot-bird\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">long-awaited kiosk in the new Twitter building food hall\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> at 1355 Market Street is expected to open.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13894853\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13894853\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/mensho_line-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"Chef and co-owner Tomoharu Shono (right) talks to customers waiting in line to eat at Mensho Tokyo.\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/mensho_line-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/mensho_line-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/mensho_line-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/mensho_line-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/mensho_line-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/mensho_line.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef and co-owner Tomoharu Shono (right) talks to customers lined up to eat at his newly reopened restaurant \u003ccite>(Abram Plaut)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Co-owner Abram Plaut, a longtime \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.vice.com/en/article/ype4x7/how-two-us-noodle-fiends-infiltrated-the-inner-circle-of-tokyo-ramen\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Tokyo-based ramen critic\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> (and Bay Area native) who partnered with Shono to open the SF outpost of Mensho Tokyo in 2016, says part of the reason they decided not to stay open through the pandemic was because the restaurant’s manager at the time had to return to Japan due to a family emergency. But the broader issue, Plaut says, is that ramen just isn’t a dish that’s very conducive to takeout. Yes, you can pack the soup separately from the toppings and noodles, but a proper bowl of ramen is such a precise orchestration of multiple components—the soup, tare (concentrated sauce), noodles, toppings, and fat—all of which need to be served at just the right temperature. “If you even let a bowl of ramen sit for 10 minutes, the noodles start to become soggy and soft; the fat starts to solidify and separate from the soup,” Plaut says. “It’s like you lose that magic.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">As a result, during the brief one- or two-month period when Mensho did offer takeout ramen kits, they came with so many different components for customers to reheat that it was almost like they were cooking the meal themselves. But while Mensho Tokyo won’t do takeout in its initial batch of offerings, Plaut says Shono has spent the better part of the past year working on developing more takeout- and delivery-friendly ramen, which the restaurant will unveil in the coming weeks. In part, that means experimenting with different kinds of noodles that better retain their texture.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“It would be easy to put the same ramen we serve at the store in paper containers and hand it over to customers, but we don’t do that,” Shono said in an email, via a translator. “Our mission is to keep the quality high and spread genuine ramen, thus we are developing noodles that can maintain their deliciousness over longer periods of time.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13894854\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13894854\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/mensho_mazesoba-800x474.jpg\" alt=\"The different ingredients that go into Mensho Tokyo's vegan mazusoba (soupless ramen) arranged in the bowl before mixing.\" width=\"800\" height=\"474\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/mensho_mazesoba-800x474.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/mensho_mazesoba-1020x605.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/mensho_mazesoba-160x95.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/mensho_mazesoba-768x455.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/mensho_mazesoba-1536x910.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/mensho_mazesoba.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The vegan mazesoba, or soupless ramen, features fried enoki mushroom “chashu.”\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Ura,” in Japanese, refers to something that’s secret or on the “reverse side,” Plaut says, noting that the advantage of reopening with the new “Ura Mensho” brand name for now is that it gives the restaurant license to experiment with new dishes. In part, that’s meant the addition of a number of new vegan options, including a vegan tantanmen and a vegan mazesoba—or soupless ramen—that features a take on “chashu” that’s made with the thickly sliced base of a stalk of enoki mushrooms. Even the classic tori paitan ramen has been tweaked.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The reopening has not come without its share of challenges. Every day, Plaut says, DoorDash drivers have arrived during lunchtime to pick up orders from a now-nonexistent menu that only ran for a month near the start of the pandemic—even though Mensho Tokyo never asked to reactivate its DoorDash account, and despite the restaurant having otherwise been a dine-in and dinner-only restaurant for the entirety of its existence. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Even accounting for the necessary social distancing measures, which will cap the restaurant’s indoor capacity at 15 diners, Plaut says the idea is to stay true to Mensho Tokyo’s original mission, which was to create a ramen experience that was as close as possible to what you’d find in Japan. In part, that means no preordering and no reservations—and yes, the long lines that come with that approach. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The restaurant has also applied for permission to add outdoor seating, and while Plaut says they aren’t sure yet if they’ll go ahead with the plan, Shono has been tinkering with the idea of setting up an outside \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://worldarchitecture.org/architecture-news/epccg/in-japan-yatai-foodcart-is-enjoying-its-revival.html\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Japanese-style yatai, or street cart\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, to serve ramen the way it was traditionally served in its earliest days in Japan.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Meanwhile, Mensho Tokyo is gearing up for a significant Bay Area expansion. The opening of its long-awaited Twitter building location is dependent on when the food hall itself is ready to open, but Plaut says that it should happen sometime this year—perhaps as early as June. And Menya Shono, the first U.S. franchise location for Shono’s flagship restaurant in Tokyo, should be ready to open at 908 4th Street in downtown San Rafael in the next three weeks. Instead of the tori paitan style, the focus at the new restaurant will be on soups made with pork bones, with prices a little bit more affordable than they are at Mensho Tokyo.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Mensho Tokyo is located at 672 Geary Street in San Francisco. Its current hours are Wednesday through Sunday, 5–9 p.m., indoor dine-in service only. For current updates, follow chef Tomoharu Shono on \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/menya_shono/?hl=en\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Instagram\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "In Praise of the Toum at Oakland's Shawarmaji",
"headTitle": "In Praise of the Toum at Oakland’s Shawarmaji | KQED",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I belong to the class of people who will always order the garlickiest, most pungent item on any given restaurant menu—the truly cultured ones who’d double- or triple-dip their bread into the \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://eastbayexpress.com/italian-american-charm-and-garlicky-flavor-bombs-at-trattoria-la-siciliana-1/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">legendary olio de la mamma\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> at Berkeley’s Trattoria La Siciliana (\u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.berkeleyside.com/2020/09/01/trattoria-la-siciliana-to-leave-elmwood-after-23-years-and-join-agrodolce-in-north-berkeley\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">RIP\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">), or who lick up every last speck of garlic-butter sauce on a plate of roast crab at \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"http://www.ppqcrab.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">PPQ Dungeness Island\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. When eating Korean barbecue, I’ve been known to monopolize an entire bowl of raw garlic, packing several slivers into every lettuce-wrapped bite. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Put it this way: If I can’t smell the food on my own breath a half an hour later, does it even count as having eaten? \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">It should come as no surprise, then, that I’ve fallen head over heels in love with toum, the intensely garlicky white sauce that comes slathered inside every shawarma wrap at \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.theshawarmaji.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Shawarmaji\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, chef Mohammed Abutaha’s downtown Oakland emporium of Jordanian spit-grilled chicken and lamb. \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/restaurants/article/In-Oakland-the-shawarma-of-a-homesick-15464635.php\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Shawarmaji’s shawarma is delicious\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">—juicy, tender, crisp at the edges, served inside comically oversized wraps that the chef \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.berkeleyside.com/2020/03/09/shawarmaji-wants-you-to-try-shawarma-and-falafel-as-the-jordanians-do\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">likens to a “missle\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">.”\u003c/span>\u003c/a> But the toum might have as large a following as the shawarma itself. I started buying an extra eight-ounce tub of the stuff every time I ordered shawarma—mostly, at first, so that I had enough to dip my french fries into. But the sauce is so good, so versatile, and so\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> wonderfully\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> garlicky that my habit has spiraled into a full-blown obsession.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13894690\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 600px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13894690\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/Toum.jpg\" alt=\"A tub of toum from Shawarmaji; the label lists the ingredients: garlic, canola oil, salt, lemon juice\" width=\"600\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/Toum.jpg 600w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/Toum-160x160.jpg 160w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Customers can purchase Shawarmaji’s toum by the eight-ounce tub. \u003ccite>(Rawan Elhalaby)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In the past couple of weeks, I’ve used Shawarmaji’s toum as a potent dipping sauce for chicken wings, tater tots, and Detroit-style pizza. I have ladled dollops of it on top of late-night Tostino’s pizza rolls (don’t judge), and I’ve scraped the last dregs of the container into a bowl of eggs before I scrambled them. A little bit goes a long, long way. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Even within the garlicky landscape of my overall diet, Shawarmaji’s toum stands in a class of its own. Abutaha, who lived in Jordan for 20 years before moving to the Bay Area in 2011, explains that the version he makes is what people in Jordan would call “Syrian toum”—the most old-school, traditional version you can find, essentially. (Within the Arab world, the consensus is that toum originated in Syria, Abutaha says.) There are only four ingredients: garlic, canola oil, salt, and lemon juice. Abutaha puts everything in a giant pot and whirs it together with an immersion blender until it emulsifies into a sauce that’s roughly analogous to Spanish aioli. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The garlic, of course, is key. According to Abutaha, intense garlickiness is one of the hallmarks of Jordanian cooking, which often features garlic that’s smashed and added to a dish raw for a sharper, more pungent effect than in other garlic-heavy cuisines. For the toum, Abutaha uses a whopping \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">18 pounds\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> of peeled garlic cloves to make a single (46-quart) batch. (By my calculations, that’s something like half a head of garlic you’re eating in every little eight-ounce tub.) And then he goes through multiple batches in the course of a week. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The end result is about as pure a distillation of garlic flavor as you can find—potent enough to make your eyes water and overwhelm your tastebuds. It’s not subtle. It’s not for everyone. Abutaha recalls that one early customer who wound up leaving a one-star Yelp review: Apparently, they were shocked that their shawarma wrap had any garlic at all.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13894688\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 600px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13894688\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/Toum.Dip_.jpg\" alt=\"A hand dipping a sliced shawarma wrap into white garlic sauce.\" width=\"600\" height=\"800\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/Toum.Dip_.jpg 600w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/Toum.Dip_-160x213.jpg 160w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The toum is the ideal dip for shawarma and french fries—and any number of other foods. \u003ccite>(Rawan Elhalaby)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Mostly, though, customers have embraced the toum. Abutaha says he opened Shawarmaji because he wanted to help introduce Bay Area diners to traditional Jordanian foods and flavors. But he isn’t a purist. After all, the practice of putting toum on anything and everything is well established in Jordan, too, Abutaha says. Eating toum with french fries “has been a thing” for as long as he can remember; there are entire restaurants built around that theme. Most typically, the sauce is eaten with chicken—any preparation of chicken, well beyond shawarma and kebabs. In Jordan, Abutaha says, even the Popeyes and KFC outlets serve their fried chicken with a side of toum.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Here in the Bay Area, I’m not alone in exploring the versatility of toum. Abutaha says he’s had customers post pictures of tacos and burritos that they’ve spiked with toum. And he thinks the sauce is particularly delicious slathered on top of a burger patty—there’s a garlic mayo that comes by default on the burgers at Trueburger in Oakland, for instance, that Abutaha says “kind of gives [him] that toum feeling.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All I know is that I need to head back to Shawarmaji with the quickness: There’s a fried chicken dinner with my name on it this weekend, and I already know what condiment I can’t do without.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I belong to the class of people who will always order the garlickiest, most pungent item on any given restaurant menu—the truly cultured ones who’d double- or triple-dip their bread into the \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://eastbayexpress.com/italian-american-charm-and-garlicky-flavor-bombs-at-trattoria-la-siciliana-1/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">legendary olio de la mamma\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> at Berkeley’s Trattoria La Siciliana (\u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.berkeleyside.com/2020/09/01/trattoria-la-siciliana-to-leave-elmwood-after-23-years-and-join-agrodolce-in-north-berkeley\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">RIP\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">), or who lick up every last speck of garlic-butter sauce on a plate of roast crab at \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"http://www.ppqcrab.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">PPQ Dungeness Island\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. When eating Korean barbecue, I’ve been known to monopolize an entire bowl of raw garlic, packing several slivers into every lettuce-wrapped bite. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Put it this way: If I can’t smell the food on my own breath a half an hour later, does it even count as having eaten? \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">It should come as no surprise, then, that I’ve fallen head over heels in love with toum, the intensely garlicky white sauce that comes slathered inside every shawarma wrap at \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.theshawarmaji.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Shawarmaji\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, chef Mohammed Abutaha’s downtown Oakland emporium of Jordanian spit-grilled chicken and lamb. \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/restaurants/article/In-Oakland-the-shawarma-of-a-homesick-15464635.php\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Shawarmaji’s shawarma is delicious\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">—juicy, tender, crisp at the edges, served inside comically oversized wraps that the chef \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.berkeleyside.com/2020/03/09/shawarmaji-wants-you-to-try-shawarma-and-falafel-as-the-jordanians-do\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">likens to a “missle\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">.”\u003c/span>\u003c/a> But the toum might have as large a following as the shawarma itself. I started buying an extra eight-ounce tub of the stuff every time I ordered shawarma—mostly, at first, so that I had enough to dip my french fries into. But the sauce is so good, so versatile, and so\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> wonderfully\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> garlicky that my habit has spiraled into a full-blown obsession.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13894690\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 600px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13894690\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/Toum.jpg\" alt=\"A tub of toum from Shawarmaji; the label lists the ingredients: garlic, canola oil, salt, lemon juice\" width=\"600\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/Toum.jpg 600w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/Toum-160x160.jpg 160w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Customers can purchase Shawarmaji’s toum by the eight-ounce tub. \u003ccite>(Rawan Elhalaby)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In the past couple of weeks, I’ve used Shawarmaji’s toum as a potent dipping sauce for chicken wings, tater tots, and Detroit-style pizza. I have ladled dollops of it on top of late-night Tostino’s pizza rolls (don’t judge), and I’ve scraped the last dregs of the container into a bowl of eggs before I scrambled them. A little bit goes a long, long way. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Even within the garlicky landscape of my overall diet, Shawarmaji’s toum stands in a class of its own. Abutaha, who lived in Jordan for 20 years before moving to the Bay Area in 2011, explains that the version he makes is what people in Jordan would call “Syrian toum”—the most old-school, traditional version you can find, essentially. (Within the Arab world, the consensus is that toum originated in Syria, Abutaha says.) There are only four ingredients: garlic, canola oil, salt, and lemon juice. Abutaha puts everything in a giant pot and whirs it together with an immersion blender until it emulsifies into a sauce that’s roughly analogous to Spanish aioli. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The garlic, of course, is key. According to Abutaha, intense garlickiness is one of the hallmarks of Jordanian cooking, which often features garlic that’s smashed and added to a dish raw for a sharper, more pungent effect than in other garlic-heavy cuisines. For the toum, Abutaha uses a whopping \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">18 pounds\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> of peeled garlic cloves to make a single (46-quart) batch. (By my calculations, that’s something like half a head of garlic you’re eating in every little eight-ounce tub.) And then he goes through multiple batches in the course of a week. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The end result is about as pure a distillation of garlic flavor as you can find—potent enough to make your eyes water and overwhelm your tastebuds. It’s not subtle. It’s not for everyone. Abutaha recalls that one early customer who wound up leaving a one-star Yelp review: Apparently, they were shocked that their shawarma wrap had any garlic at all.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13894688\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 600px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13894688\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/Toum.Dip_.jpg\" alt=\"A hand dipping a sliced shawarma wrap into white garlic sauce.\" width=\"600\" height=\"800\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/Toum.Dip_.jpg 600w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/Toum.Dip_-160x213.jpg 160w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The toum is the ideal dip for shawarma and french fries—and any number of other foods. \u003ccite>(Rawan Elhalaby)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Mostly, though, customers have embraced the toum. Abutaha says he opened Shawarmaji because he wanted to help introduce Bay Area diners to traditional Jordanian foods and flavors. But he isn’t a purist. After all, the practice of putting toum on anything and everything is well established in Jordan, too, Abutaha says. Eating toum with french fries “has been a thing” for as long as he can remember; there are entire restaurants built around that theme. Most typically, the sauce is eaten with chicken—any preparation of chicken, well beyond shawarma and kebabs. In Jordan, Abutaha says, even the Popeyes and KFC outlets serve their fried chicken with a side of toum.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Here in the Bay Area, I’m not alone in exploring the versatility of toum. Abutaha says he’s had customers post pictures of tacos and burritos that they’ve spiked with toum. And he thinks the sauce is particularly delicious slathered on top of a burger patty—there’s a garlic mayo that comes by default on the burgers at Trueburger in Oakland, for instance, that Abutaha says “kind of gives [him] that toum feeling.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All I know is that I need to head back to Shawarmaji with the quickness: There’s a fried chicken dinner with my name on it this weekend, and I already know what condiment I can’t do without.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "Flint’s, an Icon of Oakland Barbecue, Plots Return to Original Location",
"headTitle": "Flint’s, an Icon of Oakland Barbecue, Plots Return to Original Location | KQED",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The dark red barbecue sauce at \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/flintsbarbecue/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Flint’s Barbecue\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> was deep in flavor, never too sweet. The house-made links were coarse-ground to maximize sauce absorption—the best around, according to the restaurant’s loyal fans. And by the time the restaurant closed the last of its three locations in Oakland in 2010, its legend was secure: To this day, there is no shortage of old-timers who insist that Flint’s was, without question, the greatest of all time, especially during the restaurant’s heyday in the 1970s and ’80s.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Then it was gone for good—until two years ago, that is, when Crystal Martin, the granddaughter of founder Willie Flintroy, resurrected the Flint’s name with a \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://eastbayexpress.com/flints-bbq-is-coming-back-to-the-town-1/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">series of pop-ups\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> featuring all of the original recipes. Now, Martin says she’s one step closer to realizing her ultimate dream: to reopen Flint’s as a full-fledged restaurant at one of its original locations. Specifically, she’s in negotiations to lease the old Flint’s location at 3114 San Pablo Ave. in West Oakland—the same restaurant where she helped out as a kid, peeling potatoes for the potato salad in the prep kitchen area in back. (“That’s all I could do,” Martin recalls.) \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13894445\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13894445\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/flints_crystalmartin.crop_.jpg\" alt=\"Crystal Martin stands inside her Alameda commercial kitchen space during one of her Flint's pop-ups.\" width=\"640\" height=\"908\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/flints_crystalmartin.crop_.jpg 640w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/flints_crystalmartin.crop_-160x227.jpg 160w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Crystal Martin at her Alameda commercial kitchen space during one of her Flint’s pop-ups. \u003ccite>(HMTWNHERO)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The building has sat empty since that particular Flint’s closed in the late ’90s. At first, the whole point of the pop-ups was to build up enough capital to try to buy the place outright, Martin says. Instead, someone else recently bought the building, and the new owner reached out to Martin to see if she’d be interested in leasing the space—the first time that’s been a viable option since the restaurant closed.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">There’s still a long way to go, however, before a reborn Flint’s restaurant becomes a reality. Martin says that in order to purchase all of the necessary kitchen equipment and to cover the first few months of rent while she gets the business off the ground, she needs to raise at least $75,000 to $100,000. She’s launched a \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.gofundme.com/f/help-us-move-back-to-san-pablo\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">GoFundMe campaign\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. Her hope is that the legion of folks who are nostalgic for Flint’s glory years will rally together to support the effort.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Still, the very prospect of bringing Flint’s back to one of its original homes has Martin feeling excited and hopeful. When she did a walkthrough a couple of weeks ago, it was the first time she’d been back in the space since the San Pablo Avenue location closed. As soon as she walked in the door, Martin says, she was flooded with memories of the time she spent there as a kid. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Martin’s older sister, Lynette Martin, worked at the restaurant as a high school student in the late ’70s. “The first thing I remembered was looking at the brick oven,” she says. “That brought back a lot of memories.” The San Pablo Avenue location was a very plainly decorated takeout-only restaurant, Lynette recalls. The only furniture, really, was a big cooler where they kept the soda and a jukebox that was always on, playing whatever R&B songs were popular at the time.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">David Peters, a long-time resident of West Oakland’s Hoover-Foster neighborhood, grew up just around the corner from the San Pablo Avenue location and was a regular customer from the time it first opened in the early ’70s, often drawing long lines that wrapped around the block. (The very first Flint’s \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://localwiki.org/oakland/Flint%27s_Bar-B-Q\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">opened on East 14th Street in 1968\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">.) “My enduring memory is the ‘thwack-thwack-thwack-thwack’ — is them hitting the cleavers, chopping up the ribs with the cleavers on the cutting boards. That’s the enduring auditory memory of Flint’s,” Peters says.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13894446\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13894446\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/FlintSlinks.Crop_.jpg\" alt=\"Two trays full of Flint's house-made links.\" width=\"800\" height=\"646\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/FlintSlinks.Crop_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/FlintSlinks.Crop_-160x129.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/FlintSlinks.Crop_-768x620.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The coarse-ground links were one of Flint’s signature items. \u003ccite>(Flint's Barbecue)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">According to Peters, what set Flint’s apart were those coarse-ground links, which he never found anywhere else, and of course that barbecue sauce, which he says was “just so delicious”: \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“You’d get it on your potato salad. You’d end up with a pool of it in their styrofoam to-go thing. You’d sop it up with bread. If I could have drank the stuff, it would have been fine.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">These days, Peters is the project director for a forthcoming “\u003ca href=\"https://walk.ouroakland.net/tour/black-liberation-1/\">Black Liberation Walking Tour\u003c/a>” of the Hoover-Foster neighborhood—a guided walk that aims to celebrate the history, culture, and art of that particular stretch of West Oakland. One of the first stops on the tour that’s already been planned? A visit to the old Flint’s, of course.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Peters believes the restaurant’s return would mark an important turning point for the neighborhood, which in his lifetime has gone from having just four Black families living on the block to being a predominantly Black neighborhood to now, once again, only having four Black families on the block. Since Flint’s departure in the ’90s, the once-vital commercial strip on that stretch of San Pablo Avenue has never been the same.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“[The restaurant] was a source of pride for the neighborhood,” Peters says of Flint’s. “People knew where we lived. It was affirming to see this thriving Black business do so well.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In the meantime, nostalgic barbecue lovers looking to get a taste of that classic Flint’s flavor will have to content themselves with Martin’s pop-ups for now, starting with a sauce sale in late April to mark the \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/CMi8B6Bs_TH/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">two-year anniversary of her Flint’s comeback tour\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. The next full-on barbecue pop-up will probably take place sometime over the summer. And in June, Martin will host the first pop-up for her new Creole soul food business, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/ladyflintscreolesoul/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Lady Flint’s Creole Soul\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. All of the events will be held out of Martin’s commercial kitchen at 2400 Monarch St. in Alameda.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">But if all goes well, it’s possible that by early next year, Flint’s—in all its saucy glory—will rise again.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The dark red barbecue sauce at \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/flintsbarbecue/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Flint’s Barbecue\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> was deep in flavor, never too sweet. The house-made links were coarse-ground to maximize sauce absorption—the best around, according to the restaurant’s loyal fans. And by the time the restaurant closed the last of its three locations in Oakland in 2010, its legend was secure: To this day, there is no shortage of old-timers who insist that Flint’s was, without question, the greatest of all time, especially during the restaurant’s heyday in the 1970s and ’80s.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Then it was gone for good—until two years ago, that is, when Crystal Martin, the granddaughter of founder Willie Flintroy, resurrected the Flint’s name with a \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://eastbayexpress.com/flints-bbq-is-coming-back-to-the-town-1/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">series of pop-ups\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> featuring all of the original recipes. Now, Martin says she’s one step closer to realizing her ultimate dream: to reopen Flint’s as a full-fledged restaurant at one of its original locations. Specifically, she’s in negotiations to lease the old Flint’s location at 3114 San Pablo Ave. in West Oakland—the same restaurant where she helped out as a kid, peeling potatoes for the potato salad in the prep kitchen area in back. (“That’s all I could do,” Martin recalls.) \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13894445\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13894445\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/flints_crystalmartin.crop_.jpg\" alt=\"Crystal Martin stands inside her Alameda commercial kitchen space during one of her Flint's pop-ups.\" width=\"640\" height=\"908\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/flints_crystalmartin.crop_.jpg 640w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/flints_crystalmartin.crop_-160x227.jpg 160w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Crystal Martin at her Alameda commercial kitchen space during one of her Flint’s pop-ups. \u003ccite>(HMTWNHERO)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The building has sat empty since that particular Flint’s closed in the late ’90s. At first, the whole point of the pop-ups was to build up enough capital to try to buy the place outright, Martin says. Instead, someone else recently bought the building, and the new owner reached out to Martin to see if she’d be interested in leasing the space—the first time that’s been a viable option since the restaurant closed.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">There’s still a long way to go, however, before a reborn Flint’s restaurant becomes a reality. Martin says that in order to purchase all of the necessary kitchen equipment and to cover the first few months of rent while she gets the business off the ground, she needs to raise at least $75,000 to $100,000. She’s launched a \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.gofundme.com/f/help-us-move-back-to-san-pablo\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">GoFundMe campaign\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. Her hope is that the legion of folks who are nostalgic for Flint’s glory years will rally together to support the effort.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Still, the very prospect of bringing Flint’s back to one of its original homes has Martin feeling excited and hopeful. When she did a walkthrough a couple of weeks ago, it was the first time she’d been back in the space since the San Pablo Avenue location closed. As soon as she walked in the door, Martin says, she was flooded with memories of the time she spent there as a kid. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Martin’s older sister, Lynette Martin, worked at the restaurant as a high school student in the late ’70s. “The first thing I remembered was looking at the brick oven,” she says. “That brought back a lot of memories.” The San Pablo Avenue location was a very plainly decorated takeout-only restaurant, Lynette recalls. The only furniture, really, was a big cooler where they kept the soda and a jukebox that was always on, playing whatever R&B songs were popular at the time.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">David Peters, a long-time resident of West Oakland’s Hoover-Foster neighborhood, grew up just around the corner from the San Pablo Avenue location and was a regular customer from the time it first opened in the early ’70s, often drawing long lines that wrapped around the block. (The very first Flint’s \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://localwiki.org/oakland/Flint%27s_Bar-B-Q\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">opened on East 14th Street in 1968\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">.) “My enduring memory is the ‘thwack-thwack-thwack-thwack’ — is them hitting the cleavers, chopping up the ribs with the cleavers on the cutting boards. That’s the enduring auditory memory of Flint’s,” Peters says.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13894446\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13894446\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/FlintSlinks.Crop_.jpg\" alt=\"Two trays full of Flint's house-made links.\" width=\"800\" height=\"646\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/FlintSlinks.Crop_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/FlintSlinks.Crop_-160x129.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/FlintSlinks.Crop_-768x620.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The coarse-ground links were one of Flint’s signature items. \u003ccite>(Flint's Barbecue)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">According to Peters, what set Flint’s apart were those coarse-ground links, which he never found anywhere else, and of course that barbecue sauce, which he says was “just so delicious”: \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“You’d get it on your potato salad. You’d end up with a pool of it in their styrofoam to-go thing. You’d sop it up with bread. If I could have drank the stuff, it would have been fine.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">These days, Peters is the project director for a forthcoming “\u003ca href=\"https://walk.ouroakland.net/tour/black-liberation-1/\">Black Liberation Walking Tour\u003c/a>” of the Hoover-Foster neighborhood—a guided walk that aims to celebrate the history, culture, and art of that particular stretch of West Oakland. One of the first stops on the tour that’s already been planned? A visit to the old Flint’s, of course.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Peters believes the restaurant’s return would mark an important turning point for the neighborhood, which in his lifetime has gone from having just four Black families living on the block to being a predominantly Black neighborhood to now, once again, only having four Black families on the block. Since Flint’s departure in the ’90s, the once-vital commercial strip on that stretch of San Pablo Avenue has never been the same.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“[The restaurant] was a source of pride for the neighborhood,” Peters says of Flint’s. “People knew where we lived. It was affirming to see this thriving Black business do so well.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In the meantime, nostalgic barbecue lovers looking to get a taste of that classic Flint’s flavor will have to content themselves with Martin’s pop-ups for now, starting with a sauce sale in late April to mark the \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/CMi8B6Bs_TH/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">two-year anniversary of her Flint’s comeback tour\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. The next full-on barbecue pop-up will probably take place sometime over the summer. And in June, Martin will host the first pop-up for her new Creole soul food business, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/ladyflintscreolesoul/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Lady Flint’s Creole Soul\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. All of the events will be held out of Martin’s commercial kitchen at 2400 Monarch St. in Alameda.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">But if all goes well, it’s possible that by early next year, Flint’s—in all its saucy glory—will rise again.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "For One Persian Restaurant in SF, Nowruz Is a Time to Feed Students in Need",
"headTitle": "For One Persian Restaurant in SF, Nowruz Is a Time to Feed Students in Need | KQED",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">This weekend, at least 200 low-income Oakland students and their families will sit down to enjoy a Nowruz, or Persian New Year, meal: turmeric-tinged rice, a salad with pomegranate-molasses dressing, and the Persian-style “meatloaf” preparation known as kebab digi—all provided for free courtesy of \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.komaaj.com/location/komaaj/?gclid=CjwKCAjw9MuCBhBUEiwAbDZ-7olXBYc5HCwj3qkh0mc2l-uR_01ACdQCfbpDmseULTe6t0hoxSWM-xoCWO4QAvD_BwE\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Komaaj\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, a popular Northern Iranian restaurant in San Francisco’s Mission District. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The idea behind the meal giveaway is for the local Persian community to give back to those in need, especially during a time of economic hardship exacerbated by the COVID-19 crisis. But Sara Ahmadian, founder of \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.thelaundrysf.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The Laundry\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> art gallery and events space in the Mission that is spearheading the initiative, says it’s also meant to be a form of cultural exchange: For many of the children and their families, it will be their first experience with Persian food. \u003c/span>[aside postID=news_11734600,bayareabites_94115,bayareabites_116128 label='Persian New Year']\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The Laundry—where, not coincidentally, Komaaj has taken up residence since this past summer—solicited donations from the Bay Area’s Persian community to pay for the meals. To distribute them, it’s partnering with \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"http://www.oaklandtrybe.org/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Trybe\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, an Oakland-based nonprofit that works closely with families of students in low-income school districts, helping to make sure they’ve had food to eat while in-person schooling has been on pause. All told, Ahmadian expects to distribute more than 500 Nowruz meals over the course of the traditional \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.niacouncil.org/news/celebrating-13-days-of-norooz/?locale=en\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">13-day holiday period\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, which marks the start of spring.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Ahmadian and Komaaj chef and co-owner Hanif Sadr, both of Persian descent, say this notion of taking care of people in need is deeply ingrained in the traditions of Nowruz itself. Sadr recalls that when he was growing up in Iran, some wealthy families might buy clothing or shoes for needy children in the days leading up to the festival—or, in an even more direct parallel, they’d pay a restaurant to feed low-income people in the neighborhood. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“My grandma would send my young uncle to buy 10-pound bags of rice—10 or 20 of them,” Sadr says. “And then he’d deliver them to people my grandma knew needed help.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The prospect of serving a traditional Persian meal to a bunch of non-Persian children unfamiliar with the cuisine poses its own set of challenges. Prior to \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/107772/komaaj-pop-up-brings-northern-iranian-cuisine-to-northern-california\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">starting Komaaj as a pop-up in 2015\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, Sadr’s first experience as a cook was at a Persian language immersion school in Berkeley, so, as he puts it, “I know all the challenges of feeding picky kids.” When Ahmadian approached him about putting together a Nowruz meal for schoolchildren, he knew it would be a disaster if he served anything overly complicated. The children simply might wind up not eating it. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Since different kinds of kabobs are traditionally eaten during Nowruz, Sadr decided to go with a kid-friendly classic for the main course: kabob digi, or “pan kabob,” which he describes as a kind of Persian meatloaf—seasoned ground beef mixed with onions and garlic, molded into patties, and then either roasted or pan-fried and served over rice. The meal will also come with dessert, provided by \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.quincepastrystudio.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Quince Pastry Studio\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, as well as a pamphlet that explains some of the basic traditions around Nowruz.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13894265\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13894265\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/Komaaj-at-The-Laundry-Norroz-Saffron-Sturgeon-and-Herb-rice-Maahi-Ozunborun-ba-Sabzi-Polo-800x613.jpg\" alt=\"A plate of saffron-glazed smoked surgeon and herbed rice on a white plate\" width=\"800\" height=\"613\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/Komaaj-at-The-Laundry-Norroz-Saffron-Sturgeon-and-Herb-rice-Maahi-Ozunborun-ba-Sabzi-Polo-800x613.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/Komaaj-at-The-Laundry-Norroz-Saffron-Sturgeon-and-Herb-rice-Maahi-Ozunborun-ba-Sabzi-Polo-1020x781.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/Komaaj-at-The-Laundry-Norroz-Saffron-Sturgeon-and-Herb-rice-Maahi-Ozunborun-ba-Sabzi-Polo-160x123.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/Komaaj-at-The-Laundry-Norroz-Saffron-Sturgeon-and-Herb-rice-Maahi-Ozunborun-ba-Sabzi-Polo-768x588.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/Komaaj-at-The-Laundry-Norroz-Saffron-Sturgeon-and-Herb-rice-Maahi-Ozunborun-ba-Sabzi-Polo-1536x1176.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/Komaaj-at-The-Laundry-Norroz-Saffron-Sturgeon-and-Herb-rice-Maahi-Ozunborun-ba-Sabzi-Polo.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The main course in Komaaj’s Nowruz prix fixe is a saffron-glazed smoked sturgeon. \u003ccite>(Komaaj)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Meanwhile, Bay Area diners looking for a more “advanced” Persian New Year food experience can \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.komaaj.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">order a takeout meal from Komaaj\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> in the next two weeks. Sadr’s special Nowruz prix fixe ($40) includes saffron-glazed smoked sturgeon, kuku sabzi (an herb frittata), roasted eggplant and whey, and a salad made with the \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2016/03/20/471174857/nowruz-persian-new-years-table-celebrates-spring-deliciously\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">traditional components of the Haft-Seen table that’s displayed during Nowruz\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. All of the dishes are also available a la carte, but ordering the prix fixe has the added benefit of subsidizing an additional donated meal. The Nowruz meals are available Friday through Sunday, March 19–21 and 26–28.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Ahmadian says one of the main reasons she invited Komaaj to take up residency in The Laundry to begin with was because she wanted to give Persian food and culture more visibility. The Nowruz giveaway also provides Persian people in the Bay Area—many of whom donated upwards of $1,000 to support the Nowruz event—a chance to give back to the community.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“We have a small community—but a pretty powerful community,” Ahmadian says.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Komaaj is located at The Laundry at \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">3359 26th Street in San Francisco. Details on the meal giveaway \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/events/1760516537462957/\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">here\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "The Laundry and Komaaj team up to serve more than 500 free meals this weekend for Persian New Year.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">This weekend, at least 200 low-income Oakland students and their families will sit down to enjoy a Nowruz, or Persian New Year, meal: turmeric-tinged rice, a salad with pomegranate-molasses dressing, and the Persian-style “meatloaf” preparation known as kebab digi—all provided for free courtesy of \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.komaaj.com/location/komaaj/?gclid=CjwKCAjw9MuCBhBUEiwAbDZ-7olXBYc5HCwj3qkh0mc2l-uR_01ACdQCfbpDmseULTe6t0hoxSWM-xoCWO4QAvD_BwE\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Komaaj\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, a popular Northern Iranian restaurant in San Francisco’s Mission District. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The idea behind the meal giveaway is for the local Persian community to give back to those in need, especially during a time of economic hardship exacerbated by the COVID-19 crisis. But Sara Ahmadian, founder of \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.thelaundrysf.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The Laundry\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> art gallery and events space in the Mission that is spearheading the initiative, says it’s also meant to be a form of cultural exchange: For many of the children and their families, it will be their first experience with Persian food. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The Laundry—where, not coincidentally, Komaaj has taken up residence since this past summer—solicited donations from the Bay Area’s Persian community to pay for the meals. To distribute them, it’s partnering with \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"http://www.oaklandtrybe.org/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Trybe\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, an Oakland-based nonprofit that works closely with families of students in low-income school districts, helping to make sure they’ve had food to eat while in-person schooling has been on pause. All told, Ahmadian expects to distribute more than 500 Nowruz meals over the course of the traditional \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.niacouncil.org/news/celebrating-13-days-of-norooz/?locale=en\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">13-day holiday period\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, which marks the start of spring.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Ahmadian and Komaaj chef and co-owner Hanif Sadr, both of Persian descent, say this notion of taking care of people in need is deeply ingrained in the traditions of Nowruz itself. Sadr recalls that when he was growing up in Iran, some wealthy families might buy clothing or shoes for needy children in the days leading up to the festival—or, in an even more direct parallel, they’d pay a restaurant to feed low-income people in the neighborhood. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“My grandma would send my young uncle to buy 10-pound bags of rice—10 or 20 of them,” Sadr says. “And then he’d deliver them to people my grandma knew needed help.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The prospect of serving a traditional Persian meal to a bunch of non-Persian children unfamiliar with the cuisine poses its own set of challenges. Prior to \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/107772/komaaj-pop-up-brings-northern-iranian-cuisine-to-northern-california\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">starting Komaaj as a pop-up in 2015\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, Sadr’s first experience as a cook was at a Persian language immersion school in Berkeley, so, as he puts it, “I know all the challenges of feeding picky kids.” When Ahmadian approached him about putting together a Nowruz meal for schoolchildren, he knew it would be a disaster if he served anything overly complicated. The children simply might wind up not eating it. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Since different kinds of kabobs are traditionally eaten during Nowruz, Sadr decided to go with a kid-friendly classic for the main course: kabob digi, or “pan kabob,” which he describes as a kind of Persian meatloaf—seasoned ground beef mixed with onions and garlic, molded into patties, and then either roasted or pan-fried and served over rice. The meal will also come with dessert, provided by \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.quincepastrystudio.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Quince Pastry Studio\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, as well as a pamphlet that explains some of the basic traditions around Nowruz.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13894265\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13894265\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/Komaaj-at-The-Laundry-Norroz-Saffron-Sturgeon-and-Herb-rice-Maahi-Ozunborun-ba-Sabzi-Polo-800x613.jpg\" alt=\"A plate of saffron-glazed smoked surgeon and herbed rice on a white plate\" width=\"800\" height=\"613\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/Komaaj-at-The-Laundry-Norroz-Saffron-Sturgeon-and-Herb-rice-Maahi-Ozunborun-ba-Sabzi-Polo-800x613.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/Komaaj-at-The-Laundry-Norroz-Saffron-Sturgeon-and-Herb-rice-Maahi-Ozunborun-ba-Sabzi-Polo-1020x781.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/Komaaj-at-The-Laundry-Norroz-Saffron-Sturgeon-and-Herb-rice-Maahi-Ozunborun-ba-Sabzi-Polo-160x123.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/Komaaj-at-The-Laundry-Norroz-Saffron-Sturgeon-and-Herb-rice-Maahi-Ozunborun-ba-Sabzi-Polo-768x588.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/Komaaj-at-The-Laundry-Norroz-Saffron-Sturgeon-and-Herb-rice-Maahi-Ozunborun-ba-Sabzi-Polo-1536x1176.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/Komaaj-at-The-Laundry-Norroz-Saffron-Sturgeon-and-Herb-rice-Maahi-Ozunborun-ba-Sabzi-Polo.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The main course in Komaaj’s Nowruz prix fixe is a saffron-glazed smoked sturgeon. \u003ccite>(Komaaj)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Meanwhile, Bay Area diners looking for a more “advanced” Persian New Year food experience can \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.komaaj.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">order a takeout meal from Komaaj\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> in the next two weeks. Sadr’s special Nowruz prix fixe ($40) includes saffron-glazed smoked sturgeon, kuku sabzi (an herb frittata), roasted eggplant and whey, and a salad made with the \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2016/03/20/471174857/nowruz-persian-new-years-table-celebrates-spring-deliciously\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">traditional components of the Haft-Seen table that’s displayed during Nowruz\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. All of the dishes are also available a la carte, but ordering the prix fixe has the added benefit of subsidizing an additional donated meal. The Nowruz meals are available Friday through Sunday, March 19–21 and 26–28.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Ahmadian says one of the main reasons she invited Komaaj to take up residency in The Laundry to begin with was because she wanted to give Persian food and culture more visibility. The Nowruz giveaway also provides Persian people in the Bay Area—many of whom donated upwards of $1,000 to support the Nowruz event—a chance to give back to the community.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“We have a small community—but a pretty powerful community,” Ahmadian says.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Komaaj is located at The Laundry at \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">3359 26th Street in San Francisco. Details on the meal giveaway \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/events/1760516537462957/\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">here\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "3 Recipes For Cooking Up a Scaled-Down, Low-Key Thanksgiving Meal",
"headTitle": "3 Recipes For Cooking Up a Scaled-Down, Low-Key Thanksgiving Meal | KQED",
"content": "\u003cp>Thanksgiving is going to look different for many Americans this year. As the coronavirus pandemic rages, \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/coronavirus-live-updates/2020/11/19/936715870/dont-travel-for-thanksgiving-cdc-warns\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">the Centers for Disease Control is warning\u003c/a> against traveling to see friends or family, or even gathering with people who do not live with you.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Thanksgiving is a holiday most people associate with sitting around a table that is groaning under large platters of food—a big turkey, heaping bowls of mashed potatoes and gravy, stuffing and pies galore—which is simply too much food and effort for one or two or four people.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But that isn’t a reason to forego a delicious, sit-down meal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca id=\"#turkey\" class=\"anchor\">\u003c/a> With that in mind, three chefs share scaled-down Thanksgiving recipes. These dishes—\u003ca href=\"#turkey\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Anita Lo’s turkey roulade\u003c/a>, Aarón Sánchez’s \u003ca href=\"#sprouts\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">brussels sprouts with roasted jalapeño vinaigrette\u003c/a> and Sohla El-Waylly’s \u003ca href=\"#pie\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">apple (hand) pies\u003c/a>—are meant to serve up to four people.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca id=\"turkey\" class=\"anchor\">\u003c/a> Chef Anita Lo’s Turkey Roulade\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>A turkey roulade is the kind of thing that looks and sounds fancy, but isn’t much harder than making a stuffing and a roast turkey, says Chef Anita Lo. “You’re essentially making some sautéed mushrooms with some [extra things] in it and rolling it up in a breast and cooking it,” she says. Fresh herbs like thyme and tarragon add a bit of that traditional Thanksgiving flavor, and the butter and olive oil in the stuffing helps keep the turkey moist and flavorful.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>1 skin on, 2.5 lb. boneless turkey breast\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>salt and pepper\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>10 ounce maitake mushrooms (also called hen of the woods), cleaned and cut into small dice\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3 tbsp olive oil\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 small shallot, minced\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 large cloves garlic, minced\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3 tbsp butter\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>4 ounce sunchokes, cleaned and cut into small dice\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3 to 4 tbsp fine breadcrumbs\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tbsp fresh thyme leaves, chopped\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 tbsp fresh chives, chopped\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tbsp fresh parsley, chopped\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 tbsp fresh tarragon, chopped\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>zest of one lemon, grated on a Microplane\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tsp lemon juice\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Directions\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preheat an oven to 375° F (190° C)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Heat a large sauté pan on high. When hot, add the olive oil. When just smoking, add the mushrooms in one layer and allow to brown. Stir. Add the shallot, garlic and butter and stir. Cook for another minute, then season to taste with salt and pepper. Remove to a bowl. You may have to do this a few times depending on the size of your pan. Add the sunchokes, bread crumbs, herbs, lemon and lemon zest. Stir. The mixture should form lumps. Use the last tablespoon of breadcrumbs if it doesn’t stick together a bit. Taste and adjust seasonings. Set aside to cool. [aside postid='food_1337226']\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dry the turkey breast with a clean paper towel, and place on a board skin side down. Butterfly the thick portion of the breast so that you have a mostly even thickness and so you have a rough rectangle of meat that when rolled, will be covered by the skin. Season with salt and pepper on both sides. With the skin side down, spread the mushroom mixture evenly on the meat, leaving a 1-2 inch border at the farthest side where you will end the rolling. Starting from the side closest to you, roll the meat into a cylinder. Tie with a butcher string along the length of the roll to hold it all together. This may be done up to a day before cooking if desired. Just take the roll out of the refrigerator at least 30 minutes before cooking to come to room temp.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place the roll, seam side down on a rack elevated over a roasting pan filled with a thin layer of water. Roast until the internal temperature at its thickest point is 150, about 50 minutes to an hour. Allow to rest at least 10 minutes before slicing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You can make a quick pan gravy with some flour and chicken stock from the drippings if desired.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca id=\"sprouts\" class=\"anchor\">\u003c/a> \u003cstrong> Chef Aarón Sánchez’s Brussels Sprouts With Roasted Jalapeño Vinaigrette\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13889696\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13889696\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2020/11/brussels_wide-a27275f98ac4e0d1432b5de565aa64c0232c9c8a-800x450.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Aarón Sánchez's Brussels sprouts with roasted jalapeño vinaigrette.\" width=\"800\" height=\"450\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2020/11/brussels_wide-a27275f98ac4e0d1432b5de565aa64c0232c9c8a-800x450.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2020/11/brussels_wide-a27275f98ac4e0d1432b5de565aa64c0232c9c8a-1020x574.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2020/11/brussels_wide-a27275f98ac4e0d1432b5de565aa64c0232c9c8a-160x90.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2020/11/brussels_wide-a27275f98ac4e0d1432b5de565aa64c0232c9c8a-768x432.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2020/11/brussels_wide-a27275f98ac4e0d1432b5de565aa64c0232c9c8a.jpg 1278w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Aarón Sánchez’s Brussels sprouts with roasted jalapeño vinaigrette. \u003ccite>(Randy Schmidt)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>This dish comes from Johnny Sánchez, chef Aarón Sánchez’s New Orleans restaurant. It features fried brussels sprouts, sweet butternut squash and tart pomegranate seeds dressed in a bracing roasted jalapeño vinaigrette. Feel free to roast the sprouts instead of frying them. And if all that peeling and dicing and chopping feels overwhelming, Sanchez understands. “I’m all about convenience,” he says. “You know the chef’s saying: ‘work smarter, not harder.’ ” Buy the vegetables pre-chopped, and you’ll save a lot of time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>1 large butternut squash\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 tsp kosher salt, plus more for seasoning\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tsp chili powder\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>½ tsp dried Mexican oregano\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>¼ tsp ground cumin\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>¼ tsp ground coriander\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>¼ tsp ground fennel\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>¼ tsp ground yellow mustard\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>¼ tsp sweet paprika\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/8 tsp onion powder\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/8 tsp garlic powder\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>8 cups (about 790 g) Brussels sprouts\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 quarts (2 liters) canola or vegetable oil for frying\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 cup (120 ml) Roasted Jalapeño Vinaigrette (recipe follows)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>½ cup (15 g) cilantro, chopped, plus more for serving\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 serrano pepper, thinly sliced\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>½ cup (60 g) crumbled cotija cheese\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>¼ cup (45 g) pomegranate seeds\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Directions \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C) and line a baking sheet with cooking parchment. Peel and seed the squash, then cut it into 1-inch (2.5 cm) pieces. Toss with the olive oil, salt, and all the spices, then spread on the sheet in a single layer. Roast until tender with lightly browned edges, 20 to 30 minutes. [aside postid='bayareabites_102926']\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, halve the Brussels sprouts and trim their tough outer leaves. (If you prefer to roast the Brussels sprouts instead of deep-frying them, see \u003ca href=\"#note\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">\u003cstrong>Note\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>.) Pour the canola oil into a large heavy-bottomed pot and clip a thermometer to the side. Line a plate or wire rack with paper towels.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bring the canola oil to 375°F (190°C) over medium-high heat and fry the sprouts in batches until golden brown, about 2 minutes per batch. Use a spider or slotted spoon to transfer them to the lined plate, season with salt, and continue with the rest.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pour the vinaigrette into a large mixing bowl, then gently fold in the squash, Brussels sprouts, cilantro, and serrano pepper to coat. Scatter the cheese and a handful of pomegranate seeds over the top for serving.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca id=\"note\" class=\"anchor\">\u003c/a>\u003cstrong>Note: \u003c/strong>To roast the Brussels sprouts, line another baking sheet with cooking parchment and adjust the oven to 400°F (205°C). Prep the sprouts as described in Step 2, then toss them in 2 tablespoons of olive oil, season with salt, and roast until deeply golden, 20 to 25 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Roasted Jalapeño Vinaigrette\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>1 to 2 jalapeños\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 green onions\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 cloves garlic, peeled\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 cup (200 ml) grapeseed or vegetable oil\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>¼ cup (60 ml) rice vinegar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tbsp orange juice\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tbsp lime juice\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tbsp agave nectar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 cup (40 g) fresh cilantro\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Salt and freshly ground black pepper\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>Preheat your grill to medium-high or place a metal grate directly atop a gas burner on medium-high heat. Set the jalapeños and green onions over the flame and roast, turning occasionally, until they’re soft and charred all over. When they’re cool enough to handle, peel any papery char from the jalapeño, then remove its stem, seeds, and membranes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Confit the garlic by covering the cloves with the oil in a small saucepan or skillet and gently warming over medium-low heat for 20 to 30 minutes, until it’s soft but hasn’t built too much color. Remove the garlic when cooked and reserve the oil.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chop the roasted jalapeños and green onions and puree in a blender with the confit garlic, rice vinegar, orange juice, lime juice, agave nectar and cilantro. With the blender still going, stream in the reserved garlic oil and blend until smooth. Season with salt and pepper. Use right away or store in refrigerator up to 1 week.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Makes about 1½ cups (360 ml)\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca id=\"pie\" class=\"anchor\">\u003c/a> \u003cstrong> Chef Sohla El-Waylly’s Apple (Hand) Pie\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13889697\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13889697\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2020/11/pies2-f08913a0e8e5a7cca3337ff6446a8197e9078996-800x600.jpe\" alt=\"Chef Sohla El-Waylly's apple (hand) pie.\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2020/11/pies2-f08913a0e8e5a7cca3337ff6446a8197e9078996-800x600.jpe 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2020/11/pies2-f08913a0e8e5a7cca3337ff6446a8197e9078996-1020x765.jpe 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2020/11/pies2-f08913a0e8e5a7cca3337ff6446a8197e9078996-160x120.jpe 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2020/11/pies2-f08913a0e8e5a7cca3337ff6446a8197e9078996-768x576.jpe 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2020/11/pies2-f08913a0e8e5a7cca3337ff6446a8197e9078996-1536x1152.jpe 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2020/11/pies2-f08913a0e8e5a7cca3337ff6446a8197e9078996-2048x1536.jpe 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2020/11/pies2-f08913a0e8e5a7cca3337ff6446a8197e9078996-1920x1440.jpe 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Sohla El-Waylly’s apple (hand) pie. \u003ccite>(Sohla El-Waylly)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The beauty of these apple hand pies from recipe developer Sohla El-Waylly is how easy they are, especially because they call for pre-made pie dough. El-Waylly says it’s best to use Granny Smith apples, which cook down into a thick and jammy compote without the need for too much starch. You’ll need to let the filling cool completely or the uncooked crust will melt, so you can make the filling ahead of time before forming your pies.\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>\u003cbr>\nFor the filling:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>1 pound Granny Smith apples (about 2 medium)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 cup apple cider\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>6 tbsp light brown sugar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 tsp tapioca starch or cornstarch\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>½ tsp ground cinnamon\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>pinch ground nutmeg\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>pinch kosher salt\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tablespoon butter\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For the pies:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>flour for dusting\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 ready-to-bake pie crust, thawed\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 egg\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tbsp sugar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>¼ tsp cinnamon\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Make the filling:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Peel apples and cut around the core to remove the flesh in large cheeks. Dice the apple flesh into rough ½-inch pieces and transfer to a medium saucepan. Add apple cider and sugar, and bring to a boil over high heat. Continue simmering the apples, stirring occasionally, until the apples are tender and translucent, the liquid has cooked down enough to coat the back of the spoon, and the mixture looks darkened in color, 12 to 14 minutes. [aside postid='bayareabites_74069']\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a small bowl, stir together the starch with a few spoonfuls of the apple mixture to dissolve then stir it back into the pot. While stirring constantly, simmer the mixture for a full minute to cook the starch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Remove from heat and stir in the cinnamon, nutmeg, salt and butter. Transfer to a bowl to cool completely. (The filling can be made 3 days in advance and kept chilled.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Make the pies:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preheat oven to 375° F (190° C).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lightly dust a clean and dry surface with flour and unroll the prepared pie crust, gently warming it up with your hands if it feels stiff. If needed, use a rolling pin to gently roll it out into an even 11-inch circle. Using a sharp paring knife, cut the crust into quarters.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Divide the chilled apple compote evenly between the four pie crust wedges, leaving a 1-inch border all around. Working with one piece at a time, brush the edges with egg wash and fold the sides over the filling to overlap in the middle and form a cone, taking care to press the tip closed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Transfer the hand pie to a baking sheet lined with parchment and place seam side down. Use the side of your hand to gently press the wide end of the cone to seal. Fold over the edge and crimp with your fingers or a fork, just like you would for a full pie. Using the tip of a paring knife, cut a couple of slits into the hand pie to release steam as it bakes. Repeat with remaining dough and filling. and freeze for at least 20 minutes before baking. (Alternatively, freeze overnight before individually wrapping and storing for up to 2 months.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a small bowl, whisk the egg with 1 tablespoon of water and a pinch of salt. In another small bowl, stir together the sugar and cinnamon. Brush the hand pies evenly with egg wash and sprinkle with cinnamon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bake in the preheated oven until golden brown, about 18 to 20 minutes. Cool for 10 minutes before eating.\u003c/p>\n\u003cdiv class=\"fullattribution\">\u003cem>Copyright 2020 NPR. To see more, visit \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003cimg decoding=\"async\" src=\"https://www.google-analytics.com/__utm.gif?utmac=UA-5828686-4&utmdt=3+Recipes+For+Cooking+Up+A+Scaled-Down%2C+Low-Key+Thanksgiving+Meal&utme=8(APIKey)9(MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004)\">\u003c/em>\u003c/div>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Chefs Anita Lo, Aarón Sánchez and Sohla El-Waylly share tasty (smaller) alternatives to the usual Thanksgiving spreads.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Thanksgiving is going to look different for many Americans this year. As the coronavirus pandemic rages, \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/coronavirus-live-updates/2020/11/19/936715870/dont-travel-for-thanksgiving-cdc-warns\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">the Centers for Disease Control is warning\u003c/a> against traveling to see friends or family, or even gathering with people who do not live with you.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Thanksgiving is a holiday most people associate with sitting around a table that is groaning under large platters of food—a big turkey, heaping bowls of mashed potatoes and gravy, stuffing and pies galore—which is simply too much food and effort for one or two or four people.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But that isn’t a reason to forego a delicious, sit-down meal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca id=\"#turkey\" class=\"anchor\">\u003c/a> With that in mind, three chefs share scaled-down Thanksgiving recipes. These dishes—\u003ca href=\"#turkey\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Anita Lo’s turkey roulade\u003c/a>, Aarón Sánchez’s \u003ca href=\"#sprouts\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">brussels sprouts with roasted jalapeño vinaigrette\u003c/a> and Sohla El-Waylly’s \u003ca href=\"#pie\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">apple (hand) pies\u003c/a>—are meant to serve up to four people.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca id=\"turkey\" class=\"anchor\">\u003c/a> Chef Anita Lo’s Turkey Roulade\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>A turkey roulade is the kind of thing that looks and sounds fancy, but isn’t much harder than making a stuffing and a roast turkey, says Chef Anita Lo. “You’re essentially making some sautéed mushrooms with some [extra things] in it and rolling it up in a breast and cooking it,” she says. Fresh herbs like thyme and tarragon add a bit of that traditional Thanksgiving flavor, and the butter and olive oil in the stuffing helps keep the turkey moist and flavorful.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>1 skin on, 2.5 lb. boneless turkey breast\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>salt and pepper\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>10 ounce maitake mushrooms (also called hen of the woods), cleaned and cut into small dice\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3 tbsp olive oil\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 small shallot, minced\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 large cloves garlic, minced\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3 tbsp butter\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>4 ounce sunchokes, cleaned and cut into small dice\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3 to 4 tbsp fine breadcrumbs\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tbsp fresh thyme leaves, chopped\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 tbsp fresh chives, chopped\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tbsp fresh parsley, chopped\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 tbsp fresh tarragon, chopped\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>zest of one lemon, grated on a Microplane\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tsp lemon juice\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Directions\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preheat an oven to 375° F (190° C)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Heat a large sauté pan on high. When hot, add the olive oil. When just smoking, add the mushrooms in one layer and allow to brown. Stir. Add the shallot, garlic and butter and stir. Cook for another minute, then season to taste with salt and pepper. Remove to a bowl. You may have to do this a few times depending on the size of your pan. Add the sunchokes, bread crumbs, herbs, lemon and lemon zest. Stir. The mixture should form lumps. Use the last tablespoon of breadcrumbs if it doesn’t stick together a bit. Taste and adjust seasonings. Set aside to cool. \u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dry the turkey breast with a clean paper towel, and place on a board skin side down. Butterfly the thick portion of the breast so that you have a mostly even thickness and so you have a rough rectangle of meat that when rolled, will be covered by the skin. Season with salt and pepper on both sides. With the skin side down, spread the mushroom mixture evenly on the meat, leaving a 1-2 inch border at the farthest side where you will end the rolling. Starting from the side closest to you, roll the meat into a cylinder. Tie with a butcher string along the length of the roll to hold it all together. This may be done up to a day before cooking if desired. Just take the roll out of the refrigerator at least 30 minutes before cooking to come to room temp.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place the roll, seam side down on a rack elevated over a roasting pan filled with a thin layer of water. Roast until the internal temperature at its thickest point is 150, about 50 minutes to an hour. Allow to rest at least 10 minutes before slicing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You can make a quick pan gravy with some flour and chicken stock from the drippings if desired.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca id=\"sprouts\" class=\"anchor\">\u003c/a> \u003cstrong> Chef Aarón Sánchez’s Brussels Sprouts With Roasted Jalapeño Vinaigrette\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13889696\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13889696\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2020/11/brussels_wide-a27275f98ac4e0d1432b5de565aa64c0232c9c8a-800x450.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Aarón Sánchez's Brussels sprouts with roasted jalapeño vinaigrette.\" width=\"800\" height=\"450\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2020/11/brussels_wide-a27275f98ac4e0d1432b5de565aa64c0232c9c8a-800x450.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2020/11/brussels_wide-a27275f98ac4e0d1432b5de565aa64c0232c9c8a-1020x574.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2020/11/brussels_wide-a27275f98ac4e0d1432b5de565aa64c0232c9c8a-160x90.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2020/11/brussels_wide-a27275f98ac4e0d1432b5de565aa64c0232c9c8a-768x432.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2020/11/brussels_wide-a27275f98ac4e0d1432b5de565aa64c0232c9c8a.jpg 1278w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Aarón Sánchez’s Brussels sprouts with roasted jalapeño vinaigrette. \u003ccite>(Randy Schmidt)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>This dish comes from Johnny Sánchez, chef Aarón Sánchez’s New Orleans restaurant. It features fried brussels sprouts, sweet butternut squash and tart pomegranate seeds dressed in a bracing roasted jalapeño vinaigrette. Feel free to roast the sprouts instead of frying them. And if all that peeling and dicing and chopping feels overwhelming, Sanchez understands. “I’m all about convenience,” he says. “You know the chef’s saying: ‘work smarter, not harder.’ ” Buy the vegetables pre-chopped, and you’ll save a lot of time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>1 large butternut squash\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 tsp kosher salt, plus more for seasoning\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tsp chili powder\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>½ tsp dried Mexican oregano\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>¼ tsp ground cumin\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>¼ tsp ground coriander\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>¼ tsp ground fennel\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>¼ tsp ground yellow mustard\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>¼ tsp sweet paprika\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/8 tsp onion powder\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/8 tsp garlic powder\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>8 cups (about 790 g) Brussels sprouts\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 quarts (2 liters) canola or vegetable oil for frying\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 cup (120 ml) Roasted Jalapeño Vinaigrette (recipe follows)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>½ cup (15 g) cilantro, chopped, plus more for serving\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 serrano pepper, thinly sliced\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>½ cup (60 g) crumbled cotija cheese\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>¼ cup (45 g) pomegranate seeds\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Directions \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C) and line a baking sheet with cooking parchment. Peel and seed the squash, then cut it into 1-inch (2.5 cm) pieces. Toss with the olive oil, salt, and all the spices, then spread on the sheet in a single layer. Roast until tender with lightly browned edges, 20 to 30 minutes. \u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, halve the Brussels sprouts and trim their tough outer leaves. (If you prefer to roast the Brussels sprouts instead of deep-frying them, see \u003ca href=\"#note\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">\u003cstrong>Note\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>.) Pour the canola oil into a large heavy-bottomed pot and clip a thermometer to the side. Line a plate or wire rack with paper towels.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bring the canola oil to 375°F (190°C) over medium-high heat and fry the sprouts in batches until golden brown, about 2 minutes per batch. Use a spider or slotted spoon to transfer them to the lined plate, season with salt, and continue with the rest.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pour the vinaigrette into a large mixing bowl, then gently fold in the squash, Brussels sprouts, cilantro, and serrano pepper to coat. Scatter the cheese and a handful of pomegranate seeds over the top for serving.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca id=\"note\" class=\"anchor\">\u003c/a>\u003cstrong>Note: \u003c/strong>To roast the Brussels sprouts, line another baking sheet with cooking parchment and adjust the oven to 400°F (205°C). Prep the sprouts as described in Step 2, then toss them in 2 tablespoons of olive oil, season with salt, and roast until deeply golden, 20 to 25 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Roasted Jalapeño Vinaigrette\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>1 to 2 jalapeños\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 green onions\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 cloves garlic, peeled\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 cup (200 ml) grapeseed or vegetable oil\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>¼ cup (60 ml) rice vinegar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tbsp orange juice\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tbsp lime juice\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tbsp agave nectar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 cup (40 g) fresh cilantro\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Salt and freshly ground black pepper\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>Preheat your grill to medium-high or place a metal grate directly atop a gas burner on medium-high heat. Set the jalapeños and green onions over the flame and roast, turning occasionally, until they’re soft and charred all over. When they’re cool enough to handle, peel any papery char from the jalapeño, then remove its stem, seeds, and membranes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Confit the garlic by covering the cloves with the oil in a small saucepan or skillet and gently warming over medium-low heat for 20 to 30 minutes, until it’s soft but hasn’t built too much color. Remove the garlic when cooked and reserve the oil.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chop the roasted jalapeños and green onions and puree in a blender with the confit garlic, rice vinegar, orange juice, lime juice, agave nectar and cilantro. With the blender still going, stream in the reserved garlic oil and blend until smooth. Season with salt and pepper. Use right away or store in refrigerator up to 1 week.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Makes about 1½ cups (360 ml)\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca id=\"pie\" class=\"anchor\">\u003c/a> \u003cstrong> Chef Sohla El-Waylly’s Apple (Hand) Pie\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13889697\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13889697\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2020/11/pies2-f08913a0e8e5a7cca3337ff6446a8197e9078996-800x600.jpe\" alt=\"Chef Sohla El-Waylly's apple (hand) pie.\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2020/11/pies2-f08913a0e8e5a7cca3337ff6446a8197e9078996-800x600.jpe 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2020/11/pies2-f08913a0e8e5a7cca3337ff6446a8197e9078996-1020x765.jpe 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2020/11/pies2-f08913a0e8e5a7cca3337ff6446a8197e9078996-160x120.jpe 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2020/11/pies2-f08913a0e8e5a7cca3337ff6446a8197e9078996-768x576.jpe 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2020/11/pies2-f08913a0e8e5a7cca3337ff6446a8197e9078996-1536x1152.jpe 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2020/11/pies2-f08913a0e8e5a7cca3337ff6446a8197e9078996-2048x1536.jpe 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2020/11/pies2-f08913a0e8e5a7cca3337ff6446a8197e9078996-1920x1440.jpe 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Sohla El-Waylly’s apple (hand) pie. \u003ccite>(Sohla El-Waylly)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The beauty of these apple hand pies from recipe developer Sohla El-Waylly is how easy they are, especially because they call for pre-made pie dough. El-Waylly says it’s best to use Granny Smith apples, which cook down into a thick and jammy compote without the need for too much starch. You’ll need to let the filling cool completely or the uncooked crust will melt, so you can make the filling ahead of time before forming your pies.\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>\u003cbr>\nFor the filling:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>1 pound Granny Smith apples (about 2 medium)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 cup apple cider\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>6 tbsp light brown sugar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 tsp tapioca starch or cornstarch\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>½ tsp ground cinnamon\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>pinch ground nutmeg\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>pinch kosher salt\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tablespoon butter\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For the pies:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>flour for dusting\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 ready-to-bake pie crust, thawed\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 egg\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tbsp sugar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>¼ tsp cinnamon\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Make the filling:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Peel apples and cut around the core to remove the flesh in large cheeks. Dice the apple flesh into rough ½-inch pieces and transfer to a medium saucepan. Add apple cider and sugar, and bring to a boil over high heat. Continue simmering the apples, stirring occasionally, until the apples are tender and translucent, the liquid has cooked down enough to coat the back of the spoon, and the mixture looks darkened in color, 12 to 14 minutes. \u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a small bowl, stir together the starch with a few spoonfuls of the apple mixture to dissolve then stir it back into the pot. While stirring constantly, simmer the mixture for a full minute to cook the starch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Remove from heat and stir in the cinnamon, nutmeg, salt and butter. Transfer to a bowl to cool completely. (The filling can be made 3 days in advance and kept chilled.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Make the pies:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preheat oven to 375° F (190° C).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lightly dust a clean and dry surface with flour and unroll the prepared pie crust, gently warming it up with your hands if it feels stiff. If needed, use a rolling pin to gently roll it out into an even 11-inch circle. Using a sharp paring knife, cut the crust into quarters.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Divide the chilled apple compote evenly between the four pie crust wedges, leaving a 1-inch border all around. Working with one piece at a time, brush the edges with egg wash and fold the sides over the filling to overlap in the middle and form a cone, taking care to press the tip closed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Transfer the hand pie to a baking sheet lined with parchment and place seam side down. Use the side of your hand to gently press the wide end of the cone to seal. Fold over the edge and crimp with your fingers or a fork, just like you would for a full pie. Using the tip of a paring knife, cut a couple of slits into the hand pie to release steam as it bakes. Repeat with remaining dough and filling. and freeze for at least 20 minutes before baking. (Alternatively, freeze overnight before individually wrapping and storing for up to 2 months.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a small bowl, whisk the egg with 1 tablespoon of water and a pinch of salt. In another small bowl, stir together the sugar and cinnamon. Brush the hand pies evenly with egg wash and sprinkle with cinnamon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ci>In 2020, the United States faces an election like no other. Citizens will vote in the midst of a global pandemic, severe climate change, an uprising for racial justice and an administration that has eroded the norms of democracy. In ‘\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/whats-on-your-ballot\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">What’s on Your Ballot\u003c/a>,’ KQED checks in with ten different artists, activists and cultural figures about the issues on their minds and their hopes for the country.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-size: 4.6875em;float: left;line-height: 0.733em;padding: 0.05em 0.1em 0 0;font-family: times, serif, georgia\">R\u003c/span>eem Assil opened Reem’s California in 2017, inspired by Arab street corner bakeries and the vibrant communities surrounding them. The Palestinian-Syrian chef descirbes Reem’s as “a place where Arabs could feel celebrated and proud” during a post-9/11 world in which many Arab communities were threatened, attacked, and forced to hide their identities as Mediterranean or Greek. The bakery was also created to serve as a space for the social justice community where people could meet, strategize, and enjoy a good meal. Says Assil, “You come from Reem’s, you come from the whole movement.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Prior to founding Reem’s, Assil was engaged in political activism and community organizing for many years. She worked for a decade as a labor and community organizer at SEIU Local 1877 and East Bay Alliance for a Sustainable Economy (EBASE), where she fought for the dignity and equality of workers in the Bay Area. In the face of the pandemic, Assil has transformed Reem’s Oakland location into a kitchen that currently feeds more than 10,000 people in need every month, and hopes to transition the bakery into a worker owned cooperative.\u003cem>—Sam K. Lew\u003c/em> \u003c/span>[aside label=\"From KQED's California Voter Guide\" link1='https://www.kqed.org/voterguide/,All the State Props, All the Bay Area Measures' hero=https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/2020/10/KQED-Election-2020-Aside-CA-Voter-Guide.png]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>As we head into the election, what do you make of the political climate in America today?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">It’s a climate that is very polarized. I worry about that because there is a whole generation, particularly a younger generation, that is really galvanized but has no institutions to plug into. What happens when you have a group of people who are galvanized but not organized? Because of COVID, folks are stuck in front of social media and that becomes their only way to relate to the world, which doesn’t necessarily affect the change that we want. However, I do think there are communities on the very local level who are doing a good job of creating institutions that are protecting their own. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>As a Bay Area chef and restaurant owner, what is the importance of the food industry in this current moment? \u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The one thing that I’ve really tried to push on my fellow chefs, especially to those who are business owners, is that it’s not about the business owner right now, although certainly we’ve been impacted. It’s about the communities that we live in and our workers and this economy that is crumbling. While I would appreciate government assistance, I would rather see policies that will lift all of us up. Sometimes, I feel like the advocacy is more narrow-minded on a national level about what it would take to save restaurants.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13887183\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2020/09/D7A9831.jpg\" alt=\"Reem Assil prepares meals for The Unity Council to distribute to those in need of food. The Unity Council is a non-profit organization that provides assistance for low-income children, families and immigrants.\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13887183\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2020/09/D7A9831.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2020/09/D7A9831-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2020/09/D7A9831-768x512.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Reem Assil and Karl Greene prepare meals for The Unity Council to distribute to those in need of food. The Unity Council is a non-profit organization that provides assistance for low-income children, families and immigrants. \u003ccite>(Estefany Gonzalez/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">There is a tremendous opportunity to redefine restaurants’ role in our communities as economic engines, as political stakeholders, as teachers, as organizers. Why not use this moment to organize folks in the workplace? Business owners may be afraid of doing that, but we have to give something up to make this work. Reem’s is transitioning to a worker ownership, shared-governance structure. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Even before we talked about making Reem’s into a co-op, we had always built a model around employing people with the most barriers: hiring people of color, formerly incarcerated folks, and undocumented people—especially when the refugee population surged. It’s a place where people who were overlooked get a chance and get paid well. Our wages were higher than the living wage, and we didn’t create the same hierarchies of the food world. Whether you were the dishwasher or the line cook, Reem’s was about providing a place of refuge. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>You’ve been engaged in political activism throughout many elections, including during the Bush administration. What keeps you going, in spite of burnout or cynicism? \u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I’ve been part of political campaigns where we’ve seen the changes. I’ve seen the power of good old-fashioned door knocking. The act of talking to my fellow citizens is honestly the more transformative piece of the work than the actual outcome of the campaign. I’ve been part of campaigns where we’ve won and ones that we haven’t won, but it was still powerful because you build relationships with your community and you get clearer about what moves us into a better future. It’s really about the face-to-face organizing and strategizing. It’s lovely to win, too. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13887177\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2020/09/D7A9796.jpg\" alt=\"Restaurant owner Reem Assil sits in front of Reem’s California in Oakland on Sept. 29, 2020. Assil closed the restaurant's Fruitvale location to the public and now uses it to provide food for vulnerable communities affected by the 2020 global pandemic. \" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13887177\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2020/09/D7A9796.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2020/09/D7A9796-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2020/09/D7A9796-768x512.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Restaurant owner Reem Assil sits in front of Reem’s California in Oakland on Sept. 29, 2020. Assil closed the restaurant’s Fruitvale location to the public and now uses it to provide food for vulnerable communities affected by the 2020 global pandemic. \u003ccite>(Estefany Gonzalez/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Electoral work is just one tool in our toolkit as we fight for a more just and equitable world. What are some other tools that we can use during and beyond the election?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">We should be taking care of one another. One of the most inspiring things of this moment is the mutual aid efforts that have popped up. We can’t really start a movement unless we get our basic needs met. It’s hard to tell people who have four jobs and who don’t have healthcare to go out and vote. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">At Reem’s, we’ve been partnering with SF New Deal and the World Central Kitchen to provide meals to people who need it. We make about 10,000 meals a month. We’re working with the Arab Resource and Organizing Center and the Palestinian Youth Movement to get meals to low-income Arab families. Restaurants could be feeding people and benefitting from it if we were subsidized by the government. Can you imagine if restaurants had structures to do this? \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Your work lies at the intersections of borders, nations, people—it is deeply international. What does this look like for you in the face of the election while engaging in local work? \u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Particularly around food sovereignty, my work has always been internationalist. I’m an extension of the diaspora and of home. As a Palestian and as a Syrian, I try to keep the narrative of my people front and center. That’s important for their fight: to be seen and not to be invisibilized. I know the more I can connect the local with the foreign, the more success we’ll have. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13887178\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2020/09/D7A9808.jpg\" alt=\"Restaurant owner Reem Assil at Reem’s California in Oakland on Sept. 29, 2020.\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13887178\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2020/09/D7A9808.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2020/09/D7A9808-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2020/09/D7A9808-768x512.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Restaurant owner Reem Assil at Reem’s California in Oakland on Sept. 29, 2020. \u003ccite>(Estefany Gonzalez/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The reality is that on the foreign policy level, the militarization of the U.S. is not going to change with the Democratic party. If you think about the Obama regime, his immigration policy was horrible, Guantanamo didn’t get closed down, the troops were still abroad. The system is much bigger than who is in the seat of the president. But some things do change when people in power are pressured. I think about Apartheid South Africa when we decided to engage in the boycott. That was the result of organizing that impacted foreign policy. So we have to keep that pressure until—as we say in organizing—the person in power will move on something because it’s too expensive for them not to. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>After the election—no matter how it goes—what are your hopes and goals for the country, and for the Bay Area?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I hope that we can use the situation to politicize folks and help them understand why it’s important to build. No matter who wins, I hope this moment galvanizes people to do the work and know what’s at stake. Now is not the time to be complacent. We’re going to need everything we’ve built in this time of crisis to forge a new path forward and to hold elected officials accountable whoever they may be—or to take it from them. And the more we can let go of our grasp to this idea of democracy—because we’ve never truly had democracy—the more we can actually build the democratic models we want to see.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-800x78.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" class=\"aligncenter size-medium wp-image-12127869\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Learn more about Reem Assil and her bakery \u003ca href=\"https://www.reemscalifornia.com/about\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\">here\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ci>In 2020, the United States faces an election like no other. Citizens will vote in the midst of a global pandemic, severe climate change, an uprising for racial justice and an administration that has eroded the norms of democracy. In ‘\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/whats-on-your-ballot\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">What’s on Your Ballot\u003c/a>,’ KQED checks in with ten different artists, activists and cultural figures about the issues on their minds and their hopes for the country.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-size: 4.6875em;float: left;line-height: 0.733em;padding: 0.05em 0.1em 0 0;font-family: times, serif, georgia\">R\u003c/span>eem Assil opened Reem’s California in 2017, inspired by Arab street corner bakeries and the vibrant communities surrounding them. The Palestinian-Syrian chef descirbes Reem’s as “a place where Arabs could feel celebrated and proud” during a post-9/11 world in which many Arab communities were threatened, attacked, and forced to hide their identities as Mediterranean or Greek. The bakery was also created to serve as a space for the social justice community where people could meet, strategize, and enjoy a good meal. Says Assil, “You come from Reem’s, you come from the whole movement.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Prior to founding Reem’s, Assil was engaged in political activism and community organizing for many years. She worked for a decade as a labor and community organizer at SEIU Local 1877 and East Bay Alliance for a Sustainable Economy (EBASE), where she fought for the dignity and equality of workers in the Bay Area. In the face of the pandemic, Assil has transformed Reem’s Oakland location into a kitchen that currently feeds more than 10,000 people in need every month, and hopes to transition the bakery into a worker owned cooperative.\u003cem>—Sam K. Lew\u003c/em> \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>As we head into the election, what do you make of the political climate in America today?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">It’s a climate that is very polarized. I worry about that because there is a whole generation, particularly a younger generation, that is really galvanized but has no institutions to plug into. What happens when you have a group of people who are galvanized but not organized? Because of COVID, folks are stuck in front of social media and that becomes their only way to relate to the world, which doesn’t necessarily affect the change that we want. However, I do think there are communities on the very local level who are doing a good job of creating institutions that are protecting their own. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>As a Bay Area chef and restaurant owner, what is the importance of the food industry in this current moment? \u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The one thing that I’ve really tried to push on my fellow chefs, especially to those who are business owners, is that it’s not about the business owner right now, although certainly we’ve been impacted. It’s about the communities that we live in and our workers and this economy that is crumbling. While I would appreciate government assistance, I would rather see policies that will lift all of us up. Sometimes, I feel like the advocacy is more narrow-minded on a national level about what it would take to save restaurants.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13887183\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2020/09/D7A9831.jpg\" alt=\"Reem Assil prepares meals for The Unity Council to distribute to those in need of food. The Unity Council is a non-profit organization that provides assistance for low-income children, families and immigrants.\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13887183\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2020/09/D7A9831.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2020/09/D7A9831-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2020/09/D7A9831-768x512.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Reem Assil and Karl Greene prepare meals for The Unity Council to distribute to those in need of food. The Unity Council is a non-profit organization that provides assistance for low-income children, families and immigrants. \u003ccite>(Estefany Gonzalez/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">There is a tremendous opportunity to redefine restaurants’ role in our communities as economic engines, as political stakeholders, as teachers, as organizers. Why not use this moment to organize folks in the workplace? Business owners may be afraid of doing that, but we have to give something up to make this work. Reem’s is transitioning to a worker ownership, shared-governance structure. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Even before we talked about making Reem’s into a co-op, we had always built a model around employing people with the most barriers: hiring people of color, formerly incarcerated folks, and undocumented people—especially when the refugee population surged. It’s a place where people who were overlooked get a chance and get paid well. Our wages were higher than the living wage, and we didn’t create the same hierarchies of the food world. Whether you were the dishwasher or the line cook, Reem’s was about providing a place of refuge. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>You’ve been engaged in political activism throughout many elections, including during the Bush administration. What keeps you going, in spite of burnout or cynicism? \u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I’ve been part of political campaigns where we’ve seen the changes. I’ve seen the power of good old-fashioned door knocking. The act of talking to my fellow citizens is honestly the more transformative piece of the work than the actual outcome of the campaign. I’ve been part of campaigns where we’ve won and ones that we haven’t won, but it was still powerful because you build relationships with your community and you get clearer about what moves us into a better future. It’s really about the face-to-face organizing and strategizing. It’s lovely to win, too. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13887177\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2020/09/D7A9796.jpg\" alt=\"Restaurant owner Reem Assil sits in front of Reem’s California in Oakland on Sept. 29, 2020. Assil closed the restaurant's Fruitvale location to the public and now uses it to provide food for vulnerable communities affected by the 2020 global pandemic. \" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13887177\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2020/09/D7A9796.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2020/09/D7A9796-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2020/09/D7A9796-768x512.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Restaurant owner Reem Assil sits in front of Reem’s California in Oakland on Sept. 29, 2020. Assil closed the restaurant’s Fruitvale location to the public and now uses it to provide food for vulnerable communities affected by the 2020 global pandemic. \u003ccite>(Estefany Gonzalez/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Electoral work is just one tool in our toolkit as we fight for a more just and equitable world. What are some other tools that we can use during and beyond the election?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">We should be taking care of one another. One of the most inspiring things of this moment is the mutual aid efforts that have popped up. We can’t really start a movement unless we get our basic needs met. It’s hard to tell people who have four jobs and who don’t have healthcare to go out and vote. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">At Reem’s, we’ve been partnering with SF New Deal and the World Central Kitchen to provide meals to people who need it. We make about 10,000 meals a month. We’re working with the Arab Resource and Organizing Center and the Palestinian Youth Movement to get meals to low-income Arab families. Restaurants could be feeding people and benefitting from it if we were subsidized by the government. Can you imagine if restaurants had structures to do this? \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Your work lies at the intersections of borders, nations, people—it is deeply international. What does this look like for you in the face of the election while engaging in local work? \u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Particularly around food sovereignty, my work has always been internationalist. I’m an extension of the diaspora and of home. As a Palestian and as a Syrian, I try to keep the narrative of my people front and center. That’s important for their fight: to be seen and not to be invisibilized. I know the more I can connect the local with the foreign, the more success we’ll have. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13887178\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2020/09/D7A9808.jpg\" alt=\"Restaurant owner Reem Assil at Reem’s California in Oakland on Sept. 29, 2020.\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13887178\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2020/09/D7A9808.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2020/09/D7A9808-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2020/09/D7A9808-768x512.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Restaurant owner Reem Assil at Reem’s California in Oakland on Sept. 29, 2020. \u003ccite>(Estefany Gonzalez/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The reality is that on the foreign policy level, the militarization of the U.S. is not going to change with the Democratic party. If you think about the Obama regime, his immigration policy was horrible, Guantanamo didn’t get closed down, the troops were still abroad. The system is much bigger than who is in the seat of the president. But some things do change when people in power are pressured. I think about Apartheid South Africa when we decided to engage in the boycott. That was the result of organizing that impacted foreign policy. So we have to keep that pressure until—as we say in organizing—the person in power will move on something because it’s too expensive for them not to. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>After the election—no matter how it goes—what are your hopes and goals for the country, and for the Bay Area?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I hope that we can use the situation to politicize folks and help them understand why it’s important to build. No matter who wins, I hope this moment galvanizes people to do the work and know what’s at stake. Now is not the time to be complacent. We’re going to need everything we’ve built in this time of crisis to forge a new path forward and to hold elected officials accountable whoever they may be—or to take it from them. And the more we can let go of our grasp to this idea of democracy—because we’ve never truly had democracy—the more we can actually build the democratic models we want to see.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-800x78.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" class=\"aligncenter size-medium wp-image-12127869\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Learn more about Reem Assil and her bakery \u003ca href=\"https://www.reemscalifornia.com/about\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\">here\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-size: 4.6875em; float: left; line-height: 0.733em; padding: 0.05em 0.1em 0 0; font-family: times, serif, georgia;\">I\u003c/span> am what’s known as an “influencer.” I know, I know—it’s hard to say “influencer” without a tone of derision, and I’d argue there’s good cause for that. Influencers are known for shamelessly taking photos in public, often posing for forced lifestyle images that feel cheap and cheesy. Influencers will tag just about anything, right on down to a fruit drink, in a post that links \u003ca href=\"https://www.liketoknowit.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">items for sale, from which they earn a commission\u003c/a>. Just a couple weeks ago, an influencer used the eerie wildfire-orange skies of San Francisco as a backdrop to sell a $200 orange tulle dress.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So when it comes to mocking influencers and how they are generally seen? I get it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the influencer space is also female-dominated. It’s an arena that gives women a platform on which to become very successful, and to be their own boss, with very little investment. That’s part of why it’s mocked, I believe: because it is a predominantly female industry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I am Black. I am biracial. I am a Black, biracial, person-of-color influencer. And while there’s certainly no shortage of influencers here in wine country, the pool is significantly smaller for Black biracial POC influencers. This sometimes plays to my advantage, but it also means I’m left feeling like the “diversity token” at many local winery and hospitality events. [aside postID='arts_13881650']\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I decided earlier this year to join marches for Breonna Taylor and George Floyd, and to use \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/amusedblog/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">my Instagram platform\u003c/a> to speak up about the racial injustices occurring both locally and nationwide, many wineries conspicuously unfollowed me—even after posting the “black square of support” on #BlackoutTuesday. When the driver of a Porsche \u003ca href=\"https://www.reddit.com/r/santarosa/comments/hd1myp/this_is_the_porsche_that_attacked_the_protest/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">accelerated into our march one night\u003c/a>, ramming its way through our group, I shared it to my Instagram stories. It generated 12,762 impressions, but not a single brand or winery had any response to it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Neither did they reach out to speak to me privately about it at the time, or in the weeks that followed. Neither did any local influencers except one, another Black woman. Six weeks later, when a trendy social-justice posting opportunity of \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13883979/empowerment-selfies-are-burying-a-turkish-womens-rights-campaign\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">sharing a black-and-white selfie\u003c/a> presented itself, I was tagged and sent DMs by these same brands and influencers who’d ignored that fact that I was nearly \u003ca href=\"https://www.bohemian.com/northbay/protesters-allege-motorist-tried-to-hit-them/Content?oid=10246249\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">run over by a car\u003c/a>, and who now encouraged me to share and post a viral, appropriated trend.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These were companies and people I’d supported for years. And now, when I needed it most, why weren’t they supporting me and my people?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-13886692\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2020/09/Wineries.Pensive.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"800\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2020/09/Wineries.Pensive.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2020/09/Wineries.Pensive-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2020/09/Wineries.Pensive-768x768.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-size: 4.6875em; float: left; line-height: 0.733em; padding: 0.05em 0.1em 0 0; font-family: times, serif, georgia;\">W\u003c/span>e have reached a precipice: because of social media and the ubiquity of smartphones, the unjust killings and brutality shown towards people of color can no longer be ignored. We all know. You know. The brands, the wine and hospitality industries, they know. And they choose to either remain silent, or do the bare minimum. Many have continued on with business as usual.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Part of this is because only 2% of the industry’s winemakers identify as Black. I’ve seen nearly every excuse in the book for this: POC’s lack of access to wine, or that the Black community isn’t educated enough to understand that wine can be a career, a claim that’s absolutely absurd.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, as brands like Crest, Target, Josh Wines and Revlon have been willing to generously compensate me, the local Sonoma and Napa wine and hospitality industries are slow to do so. Many wineries push back with excuses of a small marketing budget. But is that really true? [aside postID='pop_112536']\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Take the practice of fellow influencers and social marketers reaching out to me and several other “friends” to join them for winery events. These event coordinators will invite 4-10 influencers from San Francisco and the wider Bay Area, and throw in 1-2 local influencers to participate in what’s called a “lifestyle event,” the idea being that the influencers will share the experience with their audience via social media and websites. Contracts are signed; I am often asked to sign away my image, likeness, and image rights to participate in events such as these. This means that my face and images can be used in marketing materials, in perpetuity, without mention of my name, however the winery desires.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It is rare that I am compensated for these events—again, usually I am fed the “narrow marketing budget” excuse. So when I later discovered that my “friends” earn thousands of dollars to invite me and others, while contracting out the use of my platform, I felt betrayed. The wineries are indeed willing to pay; even the same wineries which in the past had told me they had no budget.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A handful of wineries have shown support for Black Lives Matter in these past several months, but even fewer have actually held themselves accountable to it, which means it’s performative. When one winery was recently asked on social media what they’d done to keep themselves accountable to their promise, they responded with their commitment to “equal opportunity employment.” That is a legal demand in fair and equal employment, regulated by national law—not an opportunity to pat oneself on the back. [aside postID='arts_13883979']\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another telling moment came when I asked my Instagram community: “What local wineries have shown support for Black Lives Matter?” I received multiple mentions of wineries that my followers had felt claimed to support Black Lives Matter, but didn’t in practice. When I tagged these wineries with my followers’ responses, offering them a chance to respond, what I got instead were passive-aggressive responses from one winery owner, and then private messages from a “Black man from East Oakland” the winery had sent to me, who they’d worked with in the past, and who told me to remove my content.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then, the winery asked me if I could lead a videoconference discussion on race with their wine club members, without any compensation offered. After they agreed to set up a call with just me, one-on-one, they continued to read my messages. But wouldn’t you know it?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They stopped responding.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-13886691\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2020/09/WIneries.Vineyards.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"800\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2020/09/WIneries.Vineyards.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2020/09/WIneries.Vineyards-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2020/09/WIneries.Vineyards-768x768.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-size: 4.6875em; float: left; line-height: 0.733em; padding: 0.05em 0.1em 0 0; font-family: times, serif, georgia;\">T\u003c/span>o see most of the wineries that I’ve worked with fail to even acknowledge the Black Lives Matter movement tells me that they care more about alienating their consumer base than they care about my life. Perhaps they feel that it would be “too political” a stance to take.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But wine has always been political. It was political during prohibition. It was political when Dry Creek Valley grew \u003ca href=\"https://sonomacounty.ca.gov/PRMD/Planning/Historic-Resources/Dry-Creek-Valley/Settlement/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">mainly fruit trees\u003c/a>. It was political when Napa County \u003ca href=\"https://winesvinesanalytics.com/features/article/93725/Napa-Valley-Viticulture-A-Farmers-Outlook\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">established its urban growth boundary\u003c/a> in 1983. It was political when environmentalists raised \u003ca href=\"https://www.theava.com/archives/9057\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">issues of water usage and runoff\u003c/a> into watersheds. Do not allow misleading rhetoric to trick you into thinking that the wine industry, with all of its \u003ca href=\"https://winewaterwatch.org/2019/05/under-the-influence-how-the-wine-industry-dominates-sonoma-county-election-campaigns-2-2/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">lobbying power\u003c/a>, is not political. It is. Only what we are seeing here is that the wine industry would like to pick and choose its politics to keep visitors with a certain skin tone comfortable, in a space where the \u003ca href=\"https://www.bohemian.com/northbay/fruits-of-their-labor/Content?oid=2284786&showFullText=true\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">labor of people of color\u003c/a> is crucial.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the majority of lifestyle events I’ve worked, I have been the only person of color, and the only Black female. So it’s hard to witness this conspicuous silence from wineries, just as it’s hard to see so much lip service and performance-based allyship.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Performance-based allyship is posting Black Lives Matter content only to Instagram stories, because you don’t want it to ruin your main feed; using a 24-hour window to speak up about injustice knowing it will quickly disappear isn’t speaking up. Performance-based allyship is posting to your Instagram feed but making no real changes in your company’s policy, approach to business, or personal daily life. Performative-based allyship is just that: an act.[aside postID='arts_13881199']\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Being an ally isn’t easy. It’s scary, and upsetting, and the guilt that sometimes comes with learning about systemic racism can be uncomfortable. Well-intentioned people are afraid to offend, or to make mistakes in the learning process of becoming an ally, and that’s understandable. But here’s the thing: do it anyway. Make the mistakes. Fall on your face. And then get back up and dust yourself off. It will be ok. Allyship is a learning process. It will take a lot of reading. There will be conversations that you dread. But it will lead to understanding.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was thinking about all of this last night when I received a DM from a local winery owner. She’d been silent in the past several months, but actively listening. “Can you call me?” she asked. “Do you have time to chat?”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By the end of the conversation, I had tears in my eyes. She and I made plans to meet in person to discover how we can work to actively support Black communities here in Sonoma County. She wants to make a difference. “I’ve been watching. I’ve been listening. And now I’m ready to act,” she said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And together, I believe we will. We’ll work to bridge the gap between underrepresented faces of color in the wine and hospitality industries in Sonoma County, and put action to the words that Black lives matter for others to follow.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That is the power of influence. And it’s the right way to show up for racial justice: to meditate on a need and the desire to help, and then to set out to do so, \u003cem>while involving a person of color\u003c/em>. It’s more beautiful than any $200 tulle dress, and I’ve never been more humbled or proud.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-medium wp-image-12127869\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-800x78.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Amber Lucas is a Sonoma County-based writer and influencer. Find her \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/amusedblog/?hl=en\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">on Instagram\u003c/a>, and read more of her writing at \u003ca href=\"https://www.amusedblog.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">A•Mused\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Neither did they reach out to speak to me privately about it at the time, or in the weeks that followed. Neither did any local influencers except one, another Black woman. Six weeks later, when a trendy social-justice posting opportunity of \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13883979/empowerment-selfies-are-burying-a-turkish-womens-rights-campaign\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">sharing a black-and-white selfie\u003c/a> presented itself, I was tagged and sent DMs by these same brands and influencers who’d ignored that fact that I was nearly \u003ca href=\"https://www.bohemian.com/northbay/protesters-allege-motorist-tried-to-hit-them/Content?oid=10246249\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">run over by a car\u003c/a>, and who now encouraged me to share and post a viral, appropriated trend.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These were companies and people I’d supported for years. And now, when I needed it most, why weren’t they supporting me and my people?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-13886692\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2020/09/Wineries.Pensive.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"800\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2020/09/Wineries.Pensive.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2020/09/Wineries.Pensive-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2020/09/Wineries.Pensive-768x768.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-size: 4.6875em; float: left; line-height: 0.733em; padding: 0.05em 0.1em 0 0; font-family: times, serif, georgia;\">W\u003c/span>e have reached a precipice: because of social media and the ubiquity of smartphones, the unjust killings and brutality shown towards people of color can no longer be ignored. We all know. You know. The brands, the wine and hospitality industries, they know. And they choose to either remain silent, or do the bare minimum. Many have continued on with business as usual.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Part of this is because only 2% of the industry’s winemakers identify as Black. I’ve seen nearly every excuse in the book for this: POC’s lack of access to wine, or that the Black community isn’t educated enough to understand that wine can be a career, a claim that’s absolutely absurd.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, as brands like Crest, Target, Josh Wines and Revlon have been willing to generously compensate me, the local Sonoma and Napa wine and hospitality industries are slow to do so. Many wineries push back with excuses of a small marketing budget. But is that really true? \u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Take the practice of fellow influencers and social marketers reaching out to me and several other “friends” to join them for winery events. These event coordinators will invite 4-10 influencers from San Francisco and the wider Bay Area, and throw in 1-2 local influencers to participate in what’s called a “lifestyle event,” the idea being that the influencers will share the experience with their audience via social media and websites. Contracts are signed; I am often asked to sign away my image, likeness, and image rights to participate in events such as these. This means that my face and images can be used in marketing materials, in perpetuity, without mention of my name, however the winery desires.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It is rare that I am compensated for these events—again, usually I am fed the “narrow marketing budget” excuse. So when I later discovered that my “friends” earn thousands of dollars to invite me and others, while contracting out the use of my platform, I felt betrayed. The wineries are indeed willing to pay; even the same wineries which in the past had told me they had no budget.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A handful of wineries have shown support for Black Lives Matter in these past several months, but even fewer have actually held themselves accountable to it, which means it’s performative. When one winery was recently asked on social media what they’d done to keep themselves accountable to their promise, they responded with their commitment to “equal opportunity employment.” That is a legal demand in fair and equal employment, regulated by national law—not an opportunity to pat oneself on the back. \u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another telling moment came when I asked my Instagram community: “What local wineries have shown support for Black Lives Matter?” I received multiple mentions of wineries that my followers had felt claimed to support Black Lives Matter, but didn’t in practice. When I tagged these wineries with my followers’ responses, offering them a chance to respond, what I got instead were passive-aggressive responses from one winery owner, and then private messages from a “Black man from East Oakland” the winery had sent to me, who they’d worked with in the past, and who told me to remove my content.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then, the winery asked me if I could lead a videoconference discussion on race with their wine club members, without any compensation offered. After they agreed to set up a call with just me, one-on-one, they continued to read my messages. But wouldn’t you know it?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They stopped responding.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-13886691\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2020/09/WIneries.Vineyards.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"800\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2020/09/WIneries.Vineyards.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2020/09/WIneries.Vineyards-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2020/09/WIneries.Vineyards-768x768.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-size: 4.6875em; float: left; line-height: 0.733em; padding: 0.05em 0.1em 0 0; font-family: times, serif, georgia;\">T\u003c/span>o see most of the wineries that I’ve worked with fail to even acknowledge the Black Lives Matter movement tells me that they care more about alienating their consumer base than they care about my life. Perhaps they feel that it would be “too political” a stance to take.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But wine has always been political. It was political during prohibition. It was political when Dry Creek Valley grew \u003ca href=\"https://sonomacounty.ca.gov/PRMD/Planning/Historic-Resources/Dry-Creek-Valley/Settlement/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">mainly fruit trees\u003c/a>. It was political when Napa County \u003ca href=\"https://winesvinesanalytics.com/features/article/93725/Napa-Valley-Viticulture-A-Farmers-Outlook\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">established its urban growth boundary\u003c/a> in 1983. It was political when environmentalists raised \u003ca href=\"https://www.theava.com/archives/9057\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">issues of water usage and runoff\u003c/a> into watersheds. Do not allow misleading rhetoric to trick you into thinking that the wine industry, with all of its \u003ca href=\"https://winewaterwatch.org/2019/05/under-the-influence-how-the-wine-industry-dominates-sonoma-county-election-campaigns-2-2/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">lobbying power\u003c/a>, is not political. It is. Only what we are seeing here is that the wine industry would like to pick and choose its politics to keep visitors with a certain skin tone comfortable, in a space where the \u003ca href=\"https://www.bohemian.com/northbay/fruits-of-their-labor/Content?oid=2284786&showFullText=true\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">labor of people of color\u003c/a> is crucial.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the majority of lifestyle events I’ve worked, I have been the only person of color, and the only Black female. So it’s hard to witness this conspicuous silence from wineries, just as it’s hard to see so much lip service and performance-based allyship.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Performance-based allyship is posting Black Lives Matter content only to Instagram stories, because you don’t want it to ruin your main feed; using a 24-hour window to speak up about injustice knowing it will quickly disappear isn’t speaking up. Performance-based allyship is posting to your Instagram feed but making no real changes in your company’s policy, approach to business, or personal daily life. Performative-based allyship is just that: an act.\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Being an ally isn’t easy. It’s scary, and upsetting, and the guilt that sometimes comes with learning about systemic racism can be uncomfortable. Well-intentioned people are afraid to offend, or to make mistakes in the learning process of becoming an ally, and that’s understandable. But here’s the thing: do it anyway. Make the mistakes. Fall on your face. And then get back up and dust yourself off. It will be ok. Allyship is a learning process. It will take a lot of reading. There will be conversations that you dread. But it will lead to understanding.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was thinking about all of this last night when I received a DM from a local winery owner. She’d been silent in the past several months, but actively listening. “Can you call me?” she asked. “Do you have time to chat?”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By the end of the conversation, I had tears in my eyes. She and I made plans to meet in person to discover how we can work to actively support Black communities here in Sonoma County. She wants to make a difference. “I’ve been watching. I’ve been listening. And now I’m ready to act,” she said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And together, I believe we will. We’ll work to bridge the gap between underrepresented faces of color in the wine and hospitality industries in Sonoma County, and put action to the words that Black lives matter for others to follow.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That is the power of influence. And it’s the right way to show up for racial justice: to meditate on a need and the desire to help, and then to set out to do so, \u003cem>while involving a person of color\u003c/em>. It’s more beautiful than any $200 tulle dress, and I’ve never been more humbled or proud.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-medium wp-image-12127869\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-800x78.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Amber Lucas is a Sonoma County-based writer and influencer. Find her \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/amusedblog/?hl=en\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">on Instagram\u003c/a>, and read more of her writing at \u003ca href=\"https://www.amusedblog.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">A•Mused\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"info": "What kind of no sabo word is Hyphenación? For us, it’s about living within a hyphenation. Like being a third-gen Mexican-American from the Texas border now living that Bay Area Chicano life. Like Xorje! Each week we bring together a couple of hyphenated Latinos to talk all about personal life choices: family, careers, relationships, belonging … everything is on the table. ",
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"marketplace": {
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"info": "Our flagship program, helmed by Kai Ryssdal, examines what the day in money delivered, through stories, conversations, newsworthy numbers and more. Updated Monday through Friday at about 3:30 p.m. PT.",
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"masters-of-scale": {
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"mindshift": {
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"info": "The MindShift podcast explores the innovations in education that are shaping how kids learn. Hosts Ki Sung and Katrina Schwartz introduce listeners to educators, researchers, parents and students who are developing effective ways to improve how kids learn. We cover topics like how fed-up administrators are developing surprising tactics to deal with classroom disruptions; how listening to podcasts are helping kids develop reading skills; the consequences of overparenting; and why interdisciplinary learning can engage students on all ends of the traditional achievement spectrum. This podcast is part of the MindShift education site, a division of KQED News. KQED is an NPR/PBS member station based in San Francisco. You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>",
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"order": 12
},
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM1NzY0NjAwNDI5",
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"morning-edition": {
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"tagline": "Deeply-reported investigative journalism",
"info": "For decades, the process for how police police themselves has been inconsistent – if not opaque. In some states, like California, these proceedings were completely hidden. After a new police transparency law unsealed scores of internal affairs files, our reporters set out to examine these cases and the shadow world of police discipline. On Our Watch brings listeners into the rooms where officers are questioned and witnesses are interrogated to find out who this system is really protecting. Is it the officers, or the public they've sworn to serve?",
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"info": "Our weekly podcast explores how the media 'sausage' is made, casts an incisive eye on fluctuations in the marketplace of ideas, and examines threats to the freedom of information and expression in America and abroad. For one hour a week, the show tries to lift the veil from the process of \"making media,\" especially news media, because it's through that lens that we see the world and the world sees us",
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},
"pbs-newshour": {
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},
"perspectives": {
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"order": 14
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"info": "The economy explained. Imagine you could call up a friend and say, Meet me at the bar and tell me what's going on with the economy. Now imagine that's actually a fun evening.",
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"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/planetmoney.jpg",
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"link": "/radio/program/planet-money",
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"politicalbreakdown": {
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"title": "Political Breakdown",
"tagline": "Politics from a personal perspective",
"info": "Political Breakdown is a new series that explores the political intersection of California and the nation. Each week hosts Scott Shafer and Marisa Lagos are joined with a new special guest to unpack politics -- with personality — and offer an insider’s glimpse at how politics happens.",
"airtime": "THU 6:30pm-7pm",
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"order": 5
},
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"possible": {
"id": "possible",
"title": "Possible",
"info": "Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.",
"airtime": "SUN 2pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Possible-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.possible.fm/",
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"source": "Possible"
},
"link": "/radio/program/possible",
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"spotify": "https://open.spotify.com/show/730YpdUSNlMyPQwNnyjp4k"
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},
"pri-the-world": {
"id": "pri-the-world",
"title": "PRI's The World: Latest Edition",
"info": "Each weekday, host Marco Werman and his team of producers bring you the world's most interesting stories in an hour of radio that reminds us just how small our planet really is.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 2pm-3pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/The-World-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
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},
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},
"radiolab": {
"id": "radiolab",
"title": "Radiolab",
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