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"content": "\u003cp>At one-year-old \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/damansarasf/\">Damansara\u003c/a> in Noe Valley, it’s tough to choose between the Central Malaysian regional specialties on the menu, including laksa noodle soup, nasi lemak coconut rice with crispy chicken, or Dungeness crab slicked in chili sauce. But pastry obsessives will spot a special treat buried in the small plates section, simply called a curry puff. Upon closer scrutiny, there’s a note: only two per table. Never allowed for takeout. So you’ll have to come in and sit down to appreciate the details of this pastry, which features a spiralized dough, prettily crimped edge and belly full of emphatically seasoned potato.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some people mistakenly call them samosas or empanadas, which annoys \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13871153/the-hustle-tracy-goh-damansara-malasian-food\">chef Tracy Goh\u003c/a>. These are curry puffs, or karipap, and “back in Malaysia, it was my favorite tea-time snack,” she says. Her family would enjoy the puffs in the late afternoon with a cup of tea, coffee or Milo chocolate malt after picking them up from local street vendors that specialized in deep-frying these crisp, golden morsels. They could be deceptively skimpy on the filling — sometimes Goh would buy what appeared to be a nice puff, then bite into mostly air.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Goh had never made curry puffs until after moving to San Francisco, when she missed them so desperately, she attempted to learn the “intimidating” dough. Today she makes them true to the snacks she grew up with in Malaysia, with a specific spice profile and flaky crust. But she includes a couple of concessions to San Franciscans, specifically a bigger size and a dipping sauce. She estimates hers are triple the size and stuffed to the seams. “It’s an American size and weight version of what I would like back in Malaysia,” Goh says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13953089\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13953089\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/currypuff-hands.jpg\" alt=\"Two hands break apart a curry puff.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/currypuff-hands.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/currypuff-hands-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/currypuff-hands-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/currypuff-hands-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/currypuff-hands-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/currypuff-hands-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/currypuff-hands-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">One adjustment to the traditional Malaysian recipe: These puffs are bigger and have more filling. \u003ccite>(Aron Pruiett/Limitless Media, Inc.)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Goh toasts and grinds her own Malaysian curry blend, a long list of about 10 spices and aromatics, including tangy fenugreek and bright coriander. Along with aromatic curry leaves, those spices season a simple potato filling. Sometimes she mixes in chicken and tucks in a wedge of hard-boiled egg, but the filling should be starchy to hold in juices. (There is another version called epok epok with spicy sardines, but despite the tinned fish trend, Goh is not convinced that Noe Valley is ready yet.) The dough is typically made with margarine in Malaysia, but she prefers vegetable shortening, which keeps the fryer clean.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s the layering of the dough and the hand shaping of the pastries that make it a labor of love. Goh actually starts with two different doughs, an oil-based dough and a hot water dough, wrapping the former inside the latter, which creates the lamination or layers. Then she flattens it into a rectangle, “rolls it up like a carpet” and repeats several times, to get that spiral pattern. Finally she slices the “carpet” into round cross sections, flips each piece cut-side down and rolls them to less than 2 millimeters thick. Then you have to crimp it around the filling firm and tight, like you mean it — people who are good at pinching dumplings understand. Lightly pressing with a fork won’t work, she says. “The idea is to lock the pastry.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13916794,arts_13871153']\u003c/span>Goh has tried training her team, but it’s a heartbreak when a curry puff splits open in the deep fryer. So she does all of the laminating and shaping personally, and it takes about three hours to stuff a batch of 24 curry puffs. So that’s why it’s a limited menu item, exclusively sold in house, even though guests get salty when they sell out on a busy Saturday night.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Finally, yes, okay, it comes with a curry sauce for dunking. Back home, Goh would snack on curry puffs simply the way they are, well seasoned and dry. But in San Francisco, she got tired of diners asking, “‘Is this supposed to come with a sauce?’” She blames the samosa confusion, which leaves them reaching for a chutney. So she hands them the same spice blend whisked into coconut milk.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But whether or not you choose to dunk, each puff is a small revelation: You get to crunch down through the crisp edge that’s twisted like a rope, rip into the spiralized crust that breaks into flakes and sink into the well seasoned potato with warm curry spices.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13953091\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13953091\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/currypuff-overhead.jpg\" alt=\"Overhead view of a curry puff shows its distinctive spiral pattern.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/currypuff-overhead.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/currypuff-overhead-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/currypuff-overhead-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/currypuff-overhead-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/currypuff-overhead-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/currypuff-overhead-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/currypuff-overhead-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">There’s a limit of two curry puffs per table, dine-in only. \u003ccite>(Aron Pruiett/Limitless Media, Inc.)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Curry puffs cross cultures in Southeast Asia, and you can spot different versions on other menus around San Francisco. \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/CzCGvfivWcd/\">Dabao Singapore\u003c/a> sometimes makes a buttery baked triangle. Many Thai restaurants make sweeter versions, like the curry puffs at \u003ca href=\"http://lersros.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/LERS_ROS_Dinner_Menu.pdf\">Ler Ros\u003c/a> or so-called samosas at \u003ca href=\"https://www.farmhousetogo.com/product/samosa/89\">Farmhouse Thai\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/nari_sf/p/CrtGpcpLS53/\">Nari\u003c/a> serves a fancy puff with duck confit. They’ve even traveled to Hong Kong, where they take the form of curry pies like the tender and crumbly version you can find at \u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz_photos/lung-fung-bakery-san-francisco?select=ZS18ukKlojooP4t8bvZqSg\">Lung Fung Bakery\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And there are plenty of shortcuts. Curry puffs can be made with purchased curry powders, curry pastes and frozen dough, ditching the spiral, and streamlined for takeout. But they’re not so often done well and in this specific Malaysian style. “When people see the pastry, they say it’s beautiful,” Goh says. “Then they taste it, and they start coming back.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-12127869\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"https://damansarasf.com/\">Damansara\u003c/a> is open Wednesday through Sunday, 5 to 9 p.m., at 1781 Church St. in San Francisco\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>At one-year-old \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/damansarasf/\">Damansara\u003c/a> in Noe Valley, it’s tough to choose between the Central Malaysian regional specialties on the menu, including laksa noodle soup, nasi lemak coconut rice with crispy chicken, or Dungeness crab slicked in chili sauce. But pastry obsessives will spot a special treat buried in the small plates section, simply called a curry puff. Upon closer scrutiny, there’s a note: only two per table. Never allowed for takeout. So you’ll have to come in and sit down to appreciate the details of this pastry, which features a spiralized dough, prettily crimped edge and belly full of emphatically seasoned potato.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some people mistakenly call them samosas or empanadas, which annoys \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13871153/the-hustle-tracy-goh-damansara-malasian-food\">chef Tracy Goh\u003c/a>. These are curry puffs, or karipap, and “back in Malaysia, it was my favorite tea-time snack,” she says. Her family would enjoy the puffs in the late afternoon with a cup of tea, coffee or Milo chocolate malt after picking them up from local street vendors that specialized in deep-frying these crisp, golden morsels. They could be deceptively skimpy on the filling — sometimes Goh would buy what appeared to be a nice puff, then bite into mostly air.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Goh had never made curry puffs until after moving to San Francisco, when she missed them so desperately, she attempted to learn the “intimidating” dough. Today she makes them true to the snacks she grew up with in Malaysia, with a specific spice profile and flaky crust. But she includes a couple of concessions to San Franciscans, specifically a bigger size and a dipping sauce. She estimates hers are triple the size and stuffed to the seams. “It’s an American size and weight version of what I would like back in Malaysia,” Goh says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13953089\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13953089\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/currypuff-hands.jpg\" alt=\"Two hands break apart a curry puff.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/currypuff-hands.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/currypuff-hands-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/currypuff-hands-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/currypuff-hands-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/currypuff-hands-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/currypuff-hands-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/currypuff-hands-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">One adjustment to the traditional Malaysian recipe: These puffs are bigger and have more filling. \u003ccite>(Aron Pruiett/Limitless Media, Inc.)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Goh toasts and grinds her own Malaysian curry blend, a long list of about 10 spices and aromatics, including tangy fenugreek and bright coriander. Along with aromatic curry leaves, those spices season a simple potato filling. Sometimes she mixes in chicken and tucks in a wedge of hard-boiled egg, but the filling should be starchy to hold in juices. (There is another version called epok epok with spicy sardines, but despite the tinned fish trend, Goh is not convinced that Noe Valley is ready yet.) The dough is typically made with margarine in Malaysia, but she prefers vegetable shortening, which keeps the fryer clean.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s the layering of the dough and the hand shaping of the pastries that make it a labor of love. Goh actually starts with two different doughs, an oil-based dough and a hot water dough, wrapping the former inside the latter, which creates the lamination or layers. Then she flattens it into a rectangle, “rolls it up like a carpet” and repeats several times, to get that spiral pattern. Finally she slices the “carpet” into round cross sections, flips each piece cut-side down and rolls them to less than 2 millimeters thick. Then you have to crimp it around the filling firm and tight, like you mean it — people who are good at pinching dumplings understand. Lightly pressing with a fork won’t work, she says. “The idea is to lock the pastry.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>Goh has tried training her team, but it’s a heartbreak when a curry puff splits open in the deep fryer. So she does all of the laminating and shaping personally, and it takes about three hours to stuff a batch of 24 curry puffs. So that’s why it’s a limited menu item, exclusively sold in house, even though guests get salty when they sell out on a busy Saturday night.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Finally, yes, okay, it comes with a curry sauce for dunking. Back home, Goh would snack on curry puffs simply the way they are, well seasoned and dry. But in San Francisco, she got tired of diners asking, “‘Is this supposed to come with a sauce?’” She blames the samosa confusion, which leaves them reaching for a chutney. So she hands them the same spice blend whisked into coconut milk.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But whether or not you choose to dunk, each puff is a small revelation: You get to crunch down through the crisp edge that’s twisted like a rope, rip into the spiralized crust that breaks into flakes and sink into the well seasoned potato with warm curry spices.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13953091\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13953091\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/currypuff-overhead.jpg\" alt=\"Overhead view of a curry puff shows its distinctive spiral pattern.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/currypuff-overhead.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/currypuff-overhead-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/currypuff-overhead-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/currypuff-overhead-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/currypuff-overhead-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/currypuff-overhead-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/currypuff-overhead-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">There’s a limit of two curry puffs per table, dine-in only. \u003ccite>(Aron Pruiett/Limitless Media, Inc.)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Curry puffs cross cultures in Southeast Asia, and you can spot different versions on other menus around San Francisco. \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/CzCGvfivWcd/\">Dabao Singapore\u003c/a> sometimes makes a buttery baked triangle. Many Thai restaurants make sweeter versions, like the curry puffs at \u003ca href=\"http://lersros.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/LERS_ROS_Dinner_Menu.pdf\">Ler Ros\u003c/a> or so-called samosas at \u003ca href=\"https://www.farmhousetogo.com/product/samosa/89\">Farmhouse Thai\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/nari_sf/p/CrtGpcpLS53/\">Nari\u003c/a> serves a fancy puff with duck confit. They’ve even traveled to Hong Kong, where they take the form of curry pies like the tender and crumbly version you can find at \u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz_photos/lung-fung-bakery-san-francisco?select=ZS18ukKlojooP4t8bvZqSg\">Lung Fung Bakery\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And there are plenty of shortcuts. Curry puffs can be made with purchased curry powders, curry pastes and frozen dough, ditching the spiral, and streamlined for takeout. But they’re not so often done well and in this specific Malaysian style. “When people see the pastry, they say it’s beautiful,” Goh says. “Then they taste it, and they start coming back.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-12127869\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"https://damansarasf.com/\">Damansara\u003c/a> is open Wednesday through Sunday, 5 to 9 p.m., at 1781 Church St. in San Francisco\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "When a Silicon Valley Taqueria Assembled the World’s Largest Burrito",
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"content": "\u003cp>[dropcap]I[/dropcap]n 1997, when the dot-com boom was booming in the heart of Silicon Valley, the tech-focused region engineered another kind of innovation: the world’s largest burrito.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The burrito weighed about 4,500 pounds, measured more than 3,500 feet long and required hundreds of volunteers to assemble at Mountain View’s Rengstorff Park. (For reference, a Ford Mustang weighs 3,933 pounds; the Empire State Building stretches for 1,458 feet.) In a way, it was one of the earliest iterations of \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13936325/social-media-biggest-pupusas-burritos-instagram-tiktok-latinextravagant-bay-area\">the Bay Area’s over-the-top, “Latinextravagant” culinary ambitions\u003c/a>, long before going viral on TikTok or Instagram was even possible.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Though largely forgotten and eventually superseded in the Guinness Book of World Records — \u003ca href=\"https://www.guinnessworldrecords.com/world-records/largest-burrito\">the current record holder\u003c/a> is a gargantuan, 12,785-pound burrito assembled in Baja California, Mexico, in 2010 — the once-famed achievement still holds weight in Silicon Valley.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>La Costeña, a Mexican grocery store in Mountain View known for the customizable burritos it served from the back counter, spearheaded the epic effort along with another local business called Burrito Real (which has since closed). The two taquerias had mastered the assembly line-style build-a-burrito method long before Chipotle popularized it — an approach that made them uniquely well suited for the task at hand.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13952654\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13952654\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/img_6367.jpg\" alt=\"a van parked in a parking lot that displays a restaurant's claim to burrito fame in 1997\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/img_6367.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/img_6367-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/img_6367-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/img_6367-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/img_6367-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/img_6367-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nearly three decades later, La Costeña proudly displays its former burrito world record in Mountain View. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Though La Costeña has since\u003ca href=\"https://www.mercurynews.com/2010/06/25/revamp-in-works-for-popular-mountain-view-burrito-joint/\"> relocated across town \u003c/a>and no longer offers groceries, the restaurant still slings well-sized burritos at affordable prices in a strip mall lot off East Middlefield Road. Even today, the burritos are often named as some of the best in the city.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Inside the current location, photos of the record-shattering burrito decorate the restaurant’s otherwise bare walls — an aerial shot that shows the chorizo-and-potato stuffed beast \u003ca href=\"https://www.costena.com/famous.html\">snaking around Rengstorff Park like a baby Godzilla tail\u003c/a>. And there’s an old van parked out front with sun-peeled letters that read, “1997 Guinness Record Worlds [sic] Largest Burrito.” Besides that, there isn’t much physical evidence left. Thankfully, though, La Costena’s moment of glory happened in Silicon Valley, so it was recorded online by first-wave foodies from the Peninsula.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[pullquote size=\"large\" align=\"right\"]‘The burrito weighed about 4,500 pounds, measured more than 3,500 feet long and required hundreds of volunteers to assemble.’[/pullquote]A quick Google search (Google’s main campus is just a couple miles down the road from today’s La Costeña) reveals some brief testimonies, photos and records of the event. A 1997 report from \u003ci>Silicon Valley Business Journal\u003c/i> declares “\u003ca href=\"https://www.bizjournals.com/sanjose/stories/1997/04/21/tidbits.html\">¡Ay carramba! Burrito makers go for record\u003c/a>.” Strangely — or perhaps predictably — the special burrito operation was organized by Dan Rosen, a tech worker at nearby Sun Microsystems Inc., in the days leading up to Cinco de Mayo. The event drew a large crowd, which featured news reporters (the original food influencers) from around the state and a young Sofia Vergara when the future star was only known as a co-host on \u003ci>Fuera de serie, \u003c/i>a Latino travel show on Univision\u003ci>.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Further internet sleuthing reveals humorous write-ups about the globally-scaled burrito. The now-defunct website \u003ca href=\"http://www.supersizedmeals.com/food/article.php/2006041120363213\">SuperSizedMeals.com described it as “the earliest Supersized meal we have on record … circa 1997\u003c/a>.” The burrito had to be assembled in coordinated sections in order to meet the 90-minute time limit prescribed by the city’s health department.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13952608\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1080px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13952608\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/costena.jpeg\" alt=\"a group of Latino kids stand next to the actress Sofia Vergara at an outdoor park\" width=\"1080\" height=\"709\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/costena.jpeg 1080w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/costena-800x525.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/costena-1020x670.jpeg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/costena-160x105.jpeg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/costena-768x504.jpeg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1080px) 100vw, 1080px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The author’s childhood friend and his brothers attended the burrito fest at the Rengstorff Park in Mountain View, and met Sofia Vergara. \u003ccite>(Courtesy Adrian San Agustin)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.supersizedmeals.com/food/article.php/2006041120363213\">One blogger outlined\u003c/a> how the ingredients came in pre-loaded boxes that weighed 40 pounds and contained tortillas, rice, beans, chorizo and salsa, and had to be distributed and laid out on unfurled aluminum foil at a meticulous but speedy pace: “The tortillas were broken out and laid down with care, 12 per table, as we had been instructed. … Once your section was complete, it was time to leapfrog the other workers and start again.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All told, according to \u003ca href=\"https://www.newspapers.com/image/693179611\">news reports\u003c/a> at the time, the burrito consisted of 123 gallons of rice, 28 gallons of salsa and more than 5,000 flour tortillas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>\u003cstrong>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13936325,arts_13931115,arts_13936639']\u003c/span>\u003c/strong>\u003c/b>After its completion, which happened under the “officially edible” time limit, the volunteers celebrated by consuming the world’s largest known burrito. “We ravaged that fattie like a wild pack of dogs,” the aforementioned blogger poetically wrote.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These days, it might seem strange that this record-breaking effort even took place in Mountain View, a tech suburb that isn’t exactly known for being a Mexican food destination or hub of Latinx culture. Back then, however, the city’s Mexican and Central American immigrant populations were far more sizable than they are today. With that came a famed burrito war between La Costeña and its Salvadoran-owned rival, La Bamba, that lasted over a decade. But in 2013, as part of an ongoing wave of gentrification and redevelopment, \u003ca href=\"https://www.mv-voice.com/news/2013/12/05/taqueria-la-bamba-evicted-la-costena-relocates/\">both restaurants were effectively “evicted” from their original locations\u003c/a>, as La Bamba’s co-owner, Leo Munoz, told the \u003ci>Mountain View Voice\u003c/i> at the time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>La Bamba has since gone out of business, along with many of the Latino-owned businesses from that era. But La Costeña — and the legacy of its long burrito — remains.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A few weeks ago, I commemorated the achievement by ordering a mole chicken burrito at La Costeña for under $10, which is a steal in today’s economy. For the record, the restaurant’s burrito meat selection is impressive for a sleepy, outwardly-unnoticeable joint in a suburban neighborhood surrounded by tech offices. Besides mole, they offer chile colorado, lengua, pollo borracho (chicken marinated in beer), garlicky al mojo de ajo, fajitas and carnitas estilo Chiconcuac, in addition to the more common options.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13952653\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13952653\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/img_6316.jpg\" alt=\"a photo of three restaurant employees holding a large burrito between the three of them\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/img_6316.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/img_6316-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/img_6316-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/img_6316-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/img_6316-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/img_6316-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Not to be confused with the world’s largest burrito, La Costeña often assembled larger-than-average burritos for hungry customers. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>La Costeña also serves a super burrito that could easily feed two. The dish still attracts a noticeable lunch crowd — albeit mostly tech workers on their break, rather than the shop’s former working-class Latino clientele, who have mostly been priced out. And amateur food reviewers continue to travel from places as far as Austin, Texas, to seek out \u003ca href=\"https://winstonwanders.com/2015/03/25/la-costena-mountain-view/\">the former record-holding burrito destination\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Websites like AOL and Ask Jeeves may no longer be around to feed our sense of connection like they once did. But other remnants of the dot-com era, like La Costeña, are still on the map — if you go offline to search for them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-12127869\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>La Costeña (235 E. Middlefield Rd #1A, Mountain View) is open daily from 8 a.m. to 10 p.m. Though no longer the \u003c/i>Guinness Book of World Records\u003ci> record holder for largest burrito, the restaurant still serves a generously-proportioned super burrito that outsizes most.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class=\"utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__dropcapShortcode__dropcap\">I\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>n 1997, when the dot-com boom was booming in the heart of Silicon Valley, the tech-focused region engineered another kind of innovation: the world’s largest burrito.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The burrito weighed about 4,500 pounds, measured more than 3,500 feet long and required hundreds of volunteers to assemble at Mountain View’s Rengstorff Park. (For reference, a Ford Mustang weighs 3,933 pounds; the Empire State Building stretches for 1,458 feet.) In a way, it was one of the earliest iterations of \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13936325/social-media-biggest-pupusas-burritos-instagram-tiktok-latinextravagant-bay-area\">the Bay Area’s over-the-top, “Latinextravagant” culinary ambitions\u003c/a>, long before going viral on TikTok or Instagram was even possible.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Though largely forgotten and eventually superseded in the Guinness Book of World Records — \u003ca href=\"https://www.guinnessworldrecords.com/world-records/largest-burrito\">the current record holder\u003c/a> is a gargantuan, 12,785-pound burrito assembled in Baja California, Mexico, in 2010 — the once-famed achievement still holds weight in Silicon Valley.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>La Costeña, a Mexican grocery store in Mountain View known for the customizable burritos it served from the back counter, spearheaded the epic effort along with another local business called Burrito Real (which has since closed). The two taquerias had mastered the assembly line-style build-a-burrito method long before Chipotle popularized it — an approach that made them uniquely well suited for the task at hand.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13952654\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13952654\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/img_6367.jpg\" alt=\"a van parked in a parking lot that displays a restaurant's claim to burrito fame in 1997\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/img_6367.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/img_6367-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/img_6367-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/img_6367-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/img_6367-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/img_6367-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nearly three decades later, La Costeña proudly displays its former burrito world record in Mountain View. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Though La Costeña has since\u003ca href=\"https://www.mercurynews.com/2010/06/25/revamp-in-works-for-popular-mountain-view-burrito-joint/\"> relocated across town \u003c/a>and no longer offers groceries, the restaurant still slings well-sized burritos at affordable prices in a strip mall lot off East Middlefield Road. Even today, the burritos are often named as some of the best in the city.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Inside the current location, photos of the record-shattering burrito decorate the restaurant’s otherwise bare walls — an aerial shot that shows the chorizo-and-potato stuffed beast \u003ca href=\"https://www.costena.com/famous.html\">snaking around Rengstorff Park like a baby Godzilla tail\u003c/a>. And there’s an old van parked out front with sun-peeled letters that read, “1997 Guinness Record Worlds [sic] Largest Burrito.” Besides that, there isn’t much physical evidence left. Thankfully, though, La Costena’s moment of glory happened in Silicon Valley, so it was recorded online by first-wave foodies from the Peninsula.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>A quick Google search (Google’s main campus is just a couple miles down the road from today’s La Costeña) reveals some brief testimonies, photos and records of the event. A 1997 report from \u003ci>Silicon Valley Business Journal\u003c/i> declares “\u003ca href=\"https://www.bizjournals.com/sanjose/stories/1997/04/21/tidbits.html\">¡Ay carramba! Burrito makers go for record\u003c/a>.” Strangely — or perhaps predictably — the special burrito operation was organized by Dan Rosen, a tech worker at nearby Sun Microsystems Inc., in the days leading up to Cinco de Mayo. The event drew a large crowd, which featured news reporters (the original food influencers) from around the state and a young Sofia Vergara when the future star was only known as a co-host on \u003ci>Fuera de serie, \u003c/i>a Latino travel show on Univision\u003ci>.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Further internet sleuthing reveals humorous write-ups about the globally-scaled burrito. The now-defunct website \u003ca href=\"http://www.supersizedmeals.com/food/article.php/2006041120363213\">SuperSizedMeals.com described it as “the earliest Supersized meal we have on record … circa 1997\u003c/a>.” The burrito had to be assembled in coordinated sections in order to meet the 90-minute time limit prescribed by the city’s health department.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13952608\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1080px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13952608\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/costena.jpeg\" alt=\"a group of Latino kids stand next to the actress Sofia Vergara at an outdoor park\" width=\"1080\" height=\"709\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/costena.jpeg 1080w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/costena-800x525.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/costena-1020x670.jpeg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/costena-160x105.jpeg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/costena-768x504.jpeg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1080px) 100vw, 1080px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The author’s childhood friend and his brothers attended the burrito fest at the Rengstorff Park in Mountain View, and met Sofia Vergara. \u003ccite>(Courtesy Adrian San Agustin)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.supersizedmeals.com/food/article.php/2006041120363213\">One blogger outlined\u003c/a> how the ingredients came in pre-loaded boxes that weighed 40 pounds and contained tortillas, rice, beans, chorizo and salsa, and had to be distributed and laid out on unfurled aluminum foil at a meticulous but speedy pace: “The tortillas were broken out and laid down with care, 12 per table, as we had been instructed. … Once your section was complete, it was time to leapfrog the other workers and start again.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All told, according to \u003ca href=\"https://www.newspapers.com/image/693179611\">news reports\u003c/a> at the time, the burrito consisted of 123 gallons of rice, 28 gallons of salsa and more than 5,000 flour tortillas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>\u003cstrong>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/strong>\u003c/b>After its completion, which happened under the “officially edible” time limit, the volunteers celebrated by consuming the world’s largest known burrito. “We ravaged that fattie like a wild pack of dogs,” the aforementioned blogger poetically wrote.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These days, it might seem strange that this record-breaking effort even took place in Mountain View, a tech suburb that isn’t exactly known for being a Mexican food destination or hub of Latinx culture. Back then, however, the city’s Mexican and Central American immigrant populations were far more sizable than they are today. With that came a famed burrito war between La Costeña and its Salvadoran-owned rival, La Bamba, that lasted over a decade. But in 2013, as part of an ongoing wave of gentrification and redevelopment, \u003ca href=\"https://www.mv-voice.com/news/2013/12/05/taqueria-la-bamba-evicted-la-costena-relocates/\">both restaurants were effectively “evicted” from their original locations\u003c/a>, as La Bamba’s co-owner, Leo Munoz, told the \u003ci>Mountain View Voice\u003c/i> at the time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>La Bamba has since gone out of business, along with many of the Latino-owned businesses from that era. But La Costeña — and the legacy of its long burrito — remains.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A few weeks ago, I commemorated the achievement by ordering a mole chicken burrito at La Costeña for under $10, which is a steal in today’s economy. For the record, the restaurant’s burrito meat selection is impressive for a sleepy, outwardly-unnoticeable joint in a suburban neighborhood surrounded by tech offices. Besides mole, they offer chile colorado, lengua, pollo borracho (chicken marinated in beer), garlicky al mojo de ajo, fajitas and carnitas estilo Chiconcuac, in addition to the more common options.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13952653\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13952653\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/img_6316.jpg\" alt=\"a photo of three restaurant employees holding a large burrito between the three of them\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/img_6316.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/img_6316-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/img_6316-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/img_6316-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/img_6316-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/img_6316-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Not to be confused with the world’s largest burrito, La Costeña often assembled larger-than-average burritos for hungry customers. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>La Costeña also serves a super burrito that could easily feed two. The dish still attracts a noticeable lunch crowd — albeit mostly tech workers on their break, rather than the shop’s former working-class Latino clientele, who have mostly been priced out. And amateur food reviewers continue to travel from places as far as Austin, Texas, to seek out \u003ca href=\"https://winstonwanders.com/2015/03/25/la-costena-mountain-view/\">the former record-holding burrito destination\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Websites like AOL and Ask Jeeves may no longer be around to feed our sense of connection like they once did. But other remnants of the dot-com era, like La Costeña, are still on the map — if you go offline to search for them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-12127869\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>La Costeña (235 E. Middlefield Rd #1A, Mountain View) is open daily from 8 a.m. to 10 p.m. Though no longer the \u003c/i>Guinness Book of World Records\u003ci> record holder for largest burrito, the restaurant still serves a generously-proportioned super burrito that outsizes most.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "Korean Fried Chicken Is the Perfect Late-Night Bar Snack",
"headTitle": "Korean Fried Chicken Is the Perfect Late-Night Bar Snack | KQED",
"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13952836\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13952836\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Untitled_Artwork-2-2.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration of a man eating Korean chicken wings in a restaurant. He's blowing air out of his mouth because the chicken is too hot.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Untitled_Artwork-2-2.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Untitled_Artwork-2-2-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Untitled_Artwork-2-2-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Untitled_Artwork-2-2-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Untitled_Artwork-2-2-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Untitled_Artwork-2-2-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Zzan’s piping-hot Korean fried chicken wings and other bar snacks are among the best late-night options in San Francisco. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/the-midnight-diners\">\u003ci>The Midnight Diners\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is a regular collaboration between KQED food editor Luke Tsai and artist Thien Pham. Follow them each week as they explore the hot pot restaurants, taco carts and 24-hour casino buffets that make up the Bay Area’s after-hours dining scene.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Korean food isn’t necessarily San Francisco’s strong suit — not compared to what you can find on Telegraph Avenue in Oakland or in Santa Clara’s sprawling, suburban Koreatown, where the options are vast and better by several orders of magnitude.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">\u003cb>\u003cstrong>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13952384,arts_13950866,arts_13951914']\u003c/span>\u003c/strong>\u003c/b>\u003c/span>But if you find yourself hungry in San Francisco after 10 o’clock on a weeknight, Korean might be your very best bet. That’s thanks to the slew of soju bangs, or Korean pubs, that are sprinkled all over the western part of the city, and in and around the Tenderloin. As a rule, these spots blast K-pop, sell large quantities of cold beer and soju, and serve spicy bar snacks and some of the best fried chicken around. If it’s late enough at night, they might be the only place in the neighborhood that’s still open.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That’s how we found ourselves in \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/zzan_sf/\">Zzan\u003c/a>, a low-key, slightly industrial-looking pub on Post Street, right on the edge of the Tenderloin. (It’s part of a little hub of late-night restaurants, with both Pinecrest Diner and Cocobang, another late-night Korean fried chicken specialist, right around the corner.) There’s a big white screen on the wall where they project K-pop and Korean hip-hop videos, but at least during our visit, the vibe was more chill than rambunctious — less big groups of salarymen getting hammered, more VC bro lecturing his date on international banking. (Diagonal mouth emoji.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13952917\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13952917\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/ZZAN.jpg\" alt='Illustration of the yellow-gold exterior of a restaurant, lit up at night. The sign reads, \"ZZAN.\"' width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/ZZAN.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/ZZAN-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/ZZAN-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/ZZAN-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/ZZAN-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/ZZAN-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Located on the edge of the Tenderloin, Zzan is part of a small hub of restaurants in the neighborhood that are open late every night. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Zzan’s main virtues are its fried chicken wings and more-fun-than-average selection of pub snacks, from cheese corn and giant cheese omelets to Spam omurice and fancified instant ramyun. My favorite of these are the creamy rice cakes, a carbonara-like dish that includes bacon, a hard-boiled egg, tubular rice cakes and a velvety, mildly spicy-sweet cream sauce that’s nearly impossible to stop eating — the overall effect falls somewhere between penne alla vodka and lobster bisque. That orange-pink sauce is delicious with the extra-chewy rice cakes; or ladled over white rice, with the egg yolk mashed in for extra richness; or simply spooned directly into your mouth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As for the fried chicken, just know that it arrives at the table literally too hot to eat — burn-your-mouth hot. But once it’s cooled a little bit, it has the kind of impeccably crunchy skin and plump, juicy flesh that hits the spot at any time of day, but especially at midnight, after you’ve had a couple of drinks. If you order your garlic soy sauce on the side, as we did, know that those perfectly fried wings come almost entirely unseasoned, so you really do want to dunk it in that sauce — which wasn’t overly gloppy or sweet, as we’d feared it might be. It was just right.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Look, Zzan might not be in the drive-all-the-way-to-Santa-Clara-on-a-whim tier of Korean food. But late on a Thursday night in the city, it was exactly the meal we needed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-12127869\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Zzan is open 4 p.m. to 1 a.m. daily at 643 Post St., San Francisco.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13952836\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13952836\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Untitled_Artwork-2-2.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration of a man eating Korean chicken wings in a restaurant. He's blowing air out of his mouth because the chicken is too hot.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Untitled_Artwork-2-2.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Untitled_Artwork-2-2-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Untitled_Artwork-2-2-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Untitled_Artwork-2-2-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Untitled_Artwork-2-2-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Untitled_Artwork-2-2-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Zzan’s piping-hot Korean fried chicken wings and other bar snacks are among the best late-night options in San Francisco. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/the-midnight-diners\">\u003ci>The Midnight Diners\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is a regular collaboration between KQED food editor Luke Tsai and artist Thien Pham. Follow them each week as they explore the hot pot restaurants, taco carts and 24-hour casino buffets that make up the Bay Area’s after-hours dining scene.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Korean food isn’t necessarily San Francisco’s strong suit — not compared to what you can find on Telegraph Avenue in Oakland or in Santa Clara’s sprawling, suburban Koreatown, where the options are vast and better by several orders of magnitude.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">\u003cb>\u003cstrong>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/strong>\u003c/b>\u003c/span>But if you find yourself hungry in San Francisco after 10 o’clock on a weeknight, Korean might be your very best bet. That’s thanks to the slew of soju bangs, or Korean pubs, that are sprinkled all over the western part of the city, and in and around the Tenderloin. As a rule, these spots blast K-pop, sell large quantities of cold beer and soju, and serve spicy bar snacks and some of the best fried chicken around. If it’s late enough at night, they might be the only place in the neighborhood that’s still open.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That’s how we found ourselves in \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/zzan_sf/\">Zzan\u003c/a>, a low-key, slightly industrial-looking pub on Post Street, right on the edge of the Tenderloin. (It’s part of a little hub of late-night restaurants, with both Pinecrest Diner and Cocobang, another late-night Korean fried chicken specialist, right around the corner.) There’s a big white screen on the wall where they project K-pop and Korean hip-hop videos, but at least during our visit, the vibe was more chill than rambunctious — less big groups of salarymen getting hammered, more VC bro lecturing his date on international banking. (Diagonal mouth emoji.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13952917\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13952917\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/ZZAN.jpg\" alt='Illustration of the yellow-gold exterior of a restaurant, lit up at night. The sign reads, \"ZZAN.\"' width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/ZZAN.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/ZZAN-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/ZZAN-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/ZZAN-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/ZZAN-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/ZZAN-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Located on the edge of the Tenderloin, Zzan is part of a small hub of restaurants in the neighborhood that are open late every night. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Zzan’s main virtues are its fried chicken wings and more-fun-than-average selection of pub snacks, from cheese corn and giant cheese omelets to Spam omurice and fancified instant ramyun. My favorite of these are the creamy rice cakes, a carbonara-like dish that includes bacon, a hard-boiled egg, tubular rice cakes and a velvety, mildly spicy-sweet cream sauce that’s nearly impossible to stop eating — the overall effect falls somewhere between penne alla vodka and lobster bisque. That orange-pink sauce is delicious with the extra-chewy rice cakes; or ladled over white rice, with the egg yolk mashed in for extra richness; or simply spooned directly into your mouth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As for the fried chicken, just know that it arrives at the table literally too hot to eat — burn-your-mouth hot. But once it’s cooled a little bit, it has the kind of impeccably crunchy skin and plump, juicy flesh that hits the spot at any time of day, but especially at midnight, after you’ve had a couple of drinks. If you order your garlic soy sauce on the side, as we did, know that those perfectly fried wings come almost entirely unseasoned, so you really do want to dunk it in that sauce — which wasn’t overly gloppy or sweet, as we’d feared it might be. It was just right.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Look, Zzan might not be in the drive-all-the-way-to-Santa-Clara-on-a-whim tier of Korean food. But late on a Thursday night in the city, it was exactly the meal we needed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-12127869\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Zzan is open 4 p.m. to 1 a.m. daily at 643 Post St., San Francisco.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "Oakland Chinatown Lantern Festival Embraces Tradition, Old and New",
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"content": "\u003cp>This weekend’s Oakland Chinatown Lantern Festival celebration is decidedly new-school: Street food offerings will include Hong Kong curry fish balls, Malagasy hot pepper sauce and Oaxacan chocolate. In place of a traditional lion or dragon dance will be a performance by the Bay Area hip-hop dance crew \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/C3iugrJyww1/\">Tribe of the Dragon\u003c/a>. A lineup of globally-inspired DJs will close out the holiday with a full-on dance party.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If that doesn’t quite sound like your grandmother’s Lantern Festival, that’s very much intentional — although Diana Wu, executive director of the nonprofit kitchen incubator \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13903133/oakland-bloom-understory-primas-corner-asukar-cuban-palestinian-pop-up\">Oakland Bloom\u003c/a>, stresses that the event will still offer plenty to Chinatown’s longstanding communities of immigrant grandparents, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We do want to share the legacies, themes and spirit of the festival,” says Wu, whose organization is co-hosting the event at Chinatown’s Pacific Renaissance Plaza for the second year in a row. “But we also wanted to make it reflect Oakland — to serve the different diverse communities that make up Oakland.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13952750\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13952750\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/oakland-bloom-lantern-fest.jpg\" alt=\"Five people pose for a photo; the two on the edges form a heart shape with their arms. \" width=\"2000\" height=\"1500\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/oakland-bloom-lantern-fest.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/oakland-bloom-lantern-fest-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/oakland-bloom-lantern-fest-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/oakland-bloom-lantern-fest-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/oakland-bloom-lantern-fest-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/oakland-bloom-lantern-fest-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/oakland-bloom-lantern-fest-1920x1440.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Staff from the kitchen incubator Oakland Bloom at last year’s inaugural Lantern Festival event. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Oakland Bloom)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Co-organized with the \u003ca href=\"https://stickyriceclub.org/\">Sticky Rice Club\u003c/a> nonprofit community development corporation and \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/aapih4l/\">AAPI Healers for Liberation\u003c/a>, this year’s two-day Lantern Festival celebration will build on the themes of last year’s inaugural event, which was conceived in large part as a “healing space.” That focus on self-care and community healing felt especially pertinent in light of the violence that had impacted Asian American communities both within and outside of Chinatown around that time, including mass shootings in \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/11938855/monterey-park-community-devastated-by-weekend-mass-shooting\">Monterey Park\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/11973071/survivors-of-half-moon-bay-mass-shooting-struggle-to-rebuild-1-year-later\">Half Moon Bay\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Traditionally, the Lantern Festival — aka Yuanxiao Jie — takes place on the 15th day of the Lunar New Year, marking the end of holiday festivities with red paper lanterns symbolizing a prosperous new beginning.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the Oakland Chinatown event, even the most seemingly “traditional” aspects of the celebration will have a modern, multicultural twist. As part of an altar-building activity to honor the ancestors, the chef behind the Palestinian-Cuban pop-up \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/palestinian_cuban_fusion/?hl=en\">Asúkar\u003c/a> will create an altar for Palestine. Even the guqin performance — featuring the traditional seven-string instrument with more than 3,000 years of history in China — will be slightly unorthodox: The performer, \u003ca href=\"https://www.gabriellawen.com/about\">Gabby Wen\u003c/a>, uses synthesizers and field recordings along with the guqin to make experimental electroacoustic music.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13952753\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13952753\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/MandD-2.jpg\" alt=\"An egg custard tart topped with a marshmallow\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1500\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/MandD-2.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/MandD-2-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/MandD-2-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/MandD-2-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/MandD-2-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/MandD-2-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/MandD-2-1920x1440.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A non-traditional egg custard tart, topped with a marshmallow, from Hong Kong-style food pop-up M and D. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Oakland Bloom)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The emerging immigrant food entrepreneurs in Oakland Bloom’s incubator program will supply the food for the event — and here, too, Wu says, the idea is to engage the multiple generations and diasporas that make up Oakland. So, even though it’s a Lunar New Year event, not all of the food will be Asian. Alongside, say, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/C3dmGChyFRv/?img_index=1\">Tabachito’s\u003c/a> Filipino fusion offerings, there will also be \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/palestinian_cuban_fusion/?hl=en\">Palestinian-Cuban food\u003c/a>, and perhaps the only Bay Area food business that specializes in the \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/ResataurantFelana/\">cuisine of Madagascar\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postID='arts_13903133,arts_13952052,arts_13924997']Wu says one Oakland Bloom vendor, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/mandd_food/\">M and D Food\u003c/a>, is especially emblematic of the festival’s multigenerational approach. Known for its take on Hong Kong street foods like milk tea and curry fish balls, the business itself is a mother-and-daughter operation. Meanwhile, the chef’s father is visiting from Hong Kong, so he’ll be on hand to provide customers with auspicious, handwritten \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/C3mJFF_LXGh/?img_index=2\">Chinese calligraphy scrolls\u003c/a> — a traditional touch from the older generation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As for the actual lantern component of the festival, Wu concedes that there won’t be quite as magnificent a display as there was during last year’s inaugural event, when 88 red lanterns soared over the Pacific Renaissance Plaza. This year, a smaller number of lanterns will be integrated into the festival decor, and \u003ca href=\"https://www.friendsoflincolnsquarepark.org/\">Friends of Lincoln Square Park\u003c/a> will lead a hands-on activity that will give kids the opportunity to make small paper lanterns of their own.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13952755\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13952755\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Tabacito-pork-bbq.jpg\" alt=\"Filipino pork skewers on a metal tray.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1500\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Tabacito-pork-bbq.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Tabacito-pork-bbq-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Tabacito-pork-bbq-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Tabacito-pork-bbq-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Tabacito-pork-bbq-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Tabacito-pork-bbq-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Tabacito-pork-bbq-1920x1440.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Filipino barbecue pork skewers by Tabachito. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Oakland Bloom)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>On both days of the event, the itinerary will extend after dark, until 8 p.m., when many of Oakland Chinatown’s businesses will have already closed. For a neighborhood still struggling to get on its feet in the wake of a \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/11851735/small-business-owners-struggle-to-stay-open-in-an-empty-oakland-chinatown\">devastating pandemic\u003c/a>, the hope is that events like the Lantern Festival — with those red lanterns shining bright in the sky — can help bring a lively sense of community.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“One of the goals was to create moments of community coming together in publicly accessible spaces in Oakland Chinatown and to really support people coming out at night there,” Wu says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-12127869\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>The Oakland Chinatown Lantern Festival will take place in and around the Pacific Renaissance Plaza (388 9th St., Oakland) on Saturday, Feb. 24 and Sunday, Feb. 25, from 3–8 p.m. each day. Check the \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://stickyriceclub.org/lanternfestival2024\">\u003ci>full event schedule\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> for each day’s lineup of workshops, performances and food vendors, and follow \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/oaklandbloom\">\u003ci>Oakland Bloom\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> and \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/aapih4l/\">\u003ci>AAPI Healers for Liberation\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> on Instagram for updates. \u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>This weekend’s Oakland Chinatown Lantern Festival celebration is decidedly new-school: Street food offerings will include Hong Kong curry fish balls, Malagasy hot pepper sauce and Oaxacan chocolate. In place of a traditional lion or dragon dance will be a performance by the Bay Area hip-hop dance crew \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/C3iugrJyww1/\">Tribe of the Dragon\u003c/a>. A lineup of globally-inspired DJs will close out the holiday with a full-on dance party.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If that doesn’t quite sound like your grandmother’s Lantern Festival, that’s very much intentional — although Diana Wu, executive director of the nonprofit kitchen incubator \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13903133/oakland-bloom-understory-primas-corner-asukar-cuban-palestinian-pop-up\">Oakland Bloom\u003c/a>, stresses that the event will still offer plenty to Chinatown’s longstanding communities of immigrant grandparents, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We do want to share the legacies, themes and spirit of the festival,” says Wu, whose organization is co-hosting the event at Chinatown’s Pacific Renaissance Plaza for the second year in a row. “But we also wanted to make it reflect Oakland — to serve the different diverse communities that make up Oakland.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13952750\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13952750\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/oakland-bloom-lantern-fest.jpg\" alt=\"Five people pose for a photo; the two on the edges form a heart shape with their arms. \" width=\"2000\" height=\"1500\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/oakland-bloom-lantern-fest.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/oakland-bloom-lantern-fest-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/oakland-bloom-lantern-fest-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/oakland-bloom-lantern-fest-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/oakland-bloom-lantern-fest-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/oakland-bloom-lantern-fest-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/oakland-bloom-lantern-fest-1920x1440.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Staff from the kitchen incubator Oakland Bloom at last year’s inaugural Lantern Festival event. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Oakland Bloom)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Co-organized with the \u003ca href=\"https://stickyriceclub.org/\">Sticky Rice Club\u003c/a> nonprofit community development corporation and \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/aapih4l/\">AAPI Healers for Liberation\u003c/a>, this year’s two-day Lantern Festival celebration will build on the themes of last year’s inaugural event, which was conceived in large part as a “healing space.” That focus on self-care and community healing felt especially pertinent in light of the violence that had impacted Asian American communities both within and outside of Chinatown around that time, including mass shootings in \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/11938855/monterey-park-community-devastated-by-weekend-mass-shooting\">Monterey Park\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/11973071/survivors-of-half-moon-bay-mass-shooting-struggle-to-rebuild-1-year-later\">Half Moon Bay\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Traditionally, the Lantern Festival — aka Yuanxiao Jie — takes place on the 15th day of the Lunar New Year, marking the end of holiday festivities with red paper lanterns symbolizing a prosperous new beginning.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the Oakland Chinatown event, even the most seemingly “traditional” aspects of the celebration will have a modern, multicultural twist. As part of an altar-building activity to honor the ancestors, the chef behind the Palestinian-Cuban pop-up \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/palestinian_cuban_fusion/?hl=en\">Asúkar\u003c/a> will create an altar for Palestine. Even the guqin performance — featuring the traditional seven-string instrument with more than 3,000 years of history in China — will be slightly unorthodox: The performer, \u003ca href=\"https://www.gabriellawen.com/about\">Gabby Wen\u003c/a>, uses synthesizers and field recordings along with the guqin to make experimental electroacoustic music.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13952753\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13952753\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/MandD-2.jpg\" alt=\"An egg custard tart topped with a marshmallow\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1500\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/MandD-2.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/MandD-2-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/MandD-2-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/MandD-2-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/MandD-2-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/MandD-2-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/MandD-2-1920x1440.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A non-traditional egg custard tart, topped with a marshmallow, from Hong Kong-style food pop-up M and D. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Oakland Bloom)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The emerging immigrant food entrepreneurs in Oakland Bloom’s incubator program will supply the food for the event — and here, too, Wu says, the idea is to engage the multiple generations and diasporas that make up Oakland. So, even though it’s a Lunar New Year event, not all of the food will be Asian. Alongside, say, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/C3dmGChyFRv/?img_index=1\">Tabachito’s\u003c/a> Filipino fusion offerings, there will also be \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/palestinian_cuban_fusion/?hl=en\">Palestinian-Cuban food\u003c/a>, and perhaps the only Bay Area food business that specializes in the \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/ResataurantFelana/\">cuisine of Madagascar\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>Wu says one Oakland Bloom vendor, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/mandd_food/\">M and D Food\u003c/a>, is especially emblematic of the festival’s multigenerational approach. Known for its take on Hong Kong street foods like milk tea and curry fish balls, the business itself is a mother-and-daughter operation. Meanwhile, the chef’s father is visiting from Hong Kong, so he’ll be on hand to provide customers with auspicious, handwritten \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/C3mJFF_LXGh/?img_index=2\">Chinese calligraphy scrolls\u003c/a> — a traditional touch from the older generation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As for the actual lantern component of the festival, Wu concedes that there won’t be quite as magnificent a display as there was during last year’s inaugural event, when 88 red lanterns soared over the Pacific Renaissance Plaza. This year, a smaller number of lanterns will be integrated into the festival decor, and \u003ca href=\"https://www.friendsoflincolnsquarepark.org/\">Friends of Lincoln Square Park\u003c/a> will lead a hands-on activity that will give kids the opportunity to make small paper lanterns of their own.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13952755\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13952755\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Tabacito-pork-bbq.jpg\" alt=\"Filipino pork skewers on a metal tray.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1500\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Tabacito-pork-bbq.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Tabacito-pork-bbq-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Tabacito-pork-bbq-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Tabacito-pork-bbq-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Tabacito-pork-bbq-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Tabacito-pork-bbq-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Tabacito-pork-bbq-1920x1440.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Filipino barbecue pork skewers by Tabachito. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Oakland Bloom)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>On both days of the event, the itinerary will extend after dark, until 8 p.m., when many of Oakland Chinatown’s businesses will have already closed. For a neighborhood still struggling to get on its feet in the wake of a \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/11851735/small-business-owners-struggle-to-stay-open-in-an-empty-oakland-chinatown\">devastating pandemic\u003c/a>, the hope is that events like the Lantern Festival — with those red lanterns shining bright in the sky — can help bring a lively sense of community.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“One of the goals was to create moments of community coming together in publicly accessible spaces in Oakland Chinatown and to really support people coming out at night there,” Wu says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-12127869\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>The Oakland Chinatown Lantern Festival will take place in and around the Pacific Renaissance Plaza (388 9th St., Oakland) on Saturday, Feb. 24 and Sunday, Feb. 25, from 3–8 p.m. each day. Check the \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://stickyriceclub.org/lanternfestival2024\">\u003ci>full event schedule\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> for each day’s lineup of workshops, performances and food vendors, and follow \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/oaklandbloom\">\u003ci>Oakland Bloom\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> and \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/aapih4l/\">\u003ci>AAPI Healers for Liberation\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> on Instagram for updates. \u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13952390\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13952390\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Untitled_Artwork-2-1-1.jpg\" alt=\"Two men in glasses look ravenously hungry as they dig into a burgers and fries.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Untitled_Artwork-2-1-1.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Untitled_Artwork-2-1-1-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Untitled_Artwork-2-1-1-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Untitled_Artwork-2-1-1-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Untitled_Artwork-2-1-1-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Untitled_Artwork-2-1-1-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">YSG Halal offers a Pakistani American twist on the late-night fast food burger. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/the-midnight-diners\">\u003ci>The Midnight Diners\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is a regular collaboration between KQED food editor Luke Tsai and artist Thien Pham. Follow them each week as they explore the hot pot restaurants, taco carts and 24-hour casino buffets that make up the Bay Area’s after-hours dining scene.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fremont’s hottest club is a Pakistani burger shack in a little strip mall on Thornton Avenue.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">\u003cb>\u003cstrong>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13951914,arts_13951382,arts_13904835']\u003c/span>\u003c/strong>\u003c/b>\u003c/span>That’s what it felt like, anyway, when we pulled up to YSG Halal at 11 o’clock on a recent Friday night. When we visited, the restaurant had only been open for about a week, and everything still felt a bit bare-bones and provisional — with not much in the way of amenities or decor beyond a perfunctory “YSG BAE” Instagram wall. But the place was \u003ci>hopping\u003c/i>, with a steady stream of customers lined up to get their late-night burger fix. Every takeout order seemed massive — six or seven desi burgers and a bunch of milkshakes in one shot. Meanwhile, big groups of twentysomethings crowded around the tables, reaching over each other to get at baskets of loaded fries.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>YSG Halal is the brick-and-mortar descendent of a popular food truck, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/yeeshaansgrubb/?hl=en\">YeeShaans Grubb\u003c/a>, which accounts for its mouthful of an official name: “YSG Halal YeeShaans Grubb.” If you squint the right way, it looks like a regular old slice of Americana from the outside — a little Hopper-esque glass box of a diner where the whole gang can load up on burgers and shakes after the big game.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One point of distinction: At least during our visit, almost all of the other customers appeared to be young people of South Asian descent.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another: the actual food, which is a joyful distillation of the kind of diasporic mash-up you can find in any of the Bay Area’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13904835/san-jose-immigrant-food\">great immigrant food cities\u003c/a>. The backbone of the menu is a selection of six or seven different kinds of desi burgers, which, broadly speaking, refers to a burger with varying degrees of South Asian spicing and toppings — specifically Pakistani and made with halal-certified beef or chicken, in the case of YSG Halal. In the signature “DesYee” beef burger, those notes are relatively subtle: some cumin, coriander and diced onion in the patty give it a little bit of that kebab house flavor. Otherwise, it just eats like a really solid fast-food burger — which, a lot of times, is \u003ci>exactly \u003c/i>what I’m craving when midnight comes around. (Visit a Wendy’s or McDonald’s drive-thru around that time, and you’ll see I’m not the only one.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13952394\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13952394\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Untitled_Artwork-3-1.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration of a restaurant exterior late at night: It's a small burger shop crowded with customers and lit up from within. The sign reads "YSG Halal YeeShaans Grubb."\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Untitled_Artwork-3-1.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Untitled_Artwork-3-1-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Untitled_Artwork-3-1-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Untitled_Artwork-3-1-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Untitled_Artwork-3-1-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Untitled_Artwork-3-1-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The place was hopping at 11 p.m. on a Friday night. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The “ChaplYee” burger, though, was what really sold me. Inspired by the thin, crisply seared chapli kebabs that you can get at any Afghan or Pakistani kebab spot, this beef patty featured the same house masala spice mix as the DesYee burger, but upped the onion quotient by a factor of ten, then added a bunch of chopped chili peppers to give it a spicy kick. The result is utterly delicious — the type of thing Pakistani American families might grill up at exactly the kind of backyard barbecue I’m always hoping I’ll be invited to.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>YSG’s other big specialty is various permutations of saucy, meat-bedecked loaded fries. But coming at the tail end of a long night of indulgent eating, that felt a bit excessive, even to me. As it is, the burgers come with a generous portion of perfectly serviceable seasoned fries. My one tip is to ask for a tub of the pale green, aioli-like “SpiceYee” dipping sauce, a spectacularly addicting condiment that reminded me of the aji verde sauce Peruvian restaurants sometimes serve with rotisserie chicken. And, of course, you’ll want to wash it all down with one of the restaurant’s tasty, lassi-adjacent mango milkshakes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What could be more American than that?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-12127869\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>YSG Halal is open at 4342 Thornton Ave., Ste. A, in Fremont, from Tuesday to Thursday 5 p.m.–midnight, Friday to Saturday 5 p.m.–1 a.m. and Sunday 5–10 p.m. On Friday, Feb. 16, the restaurant will host a \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/C2--DnLPu7x/\">\u003ci>grand opening celebration\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>, complete with a burger eating competition and free burgers for the first 50 guests.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13952390\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13952390\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Untitled_Artwork-2-1-1.jpg\" alt=\"Two men in glasses look ravenously hungry as they dig into a burgers and fries.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Untitled_Artwork-2-1-1.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Untitled_Artwork-2-1-1-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Untitled_Artwork-2-1-1-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Untitled_Artwork-2-1-1-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Untitled_Artwork-2-1-1-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Untitled_Artwork-2-1-1-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">YSG Halal offers a Pakistani American twist on the late-night fast food burger. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/the-midnight-diners\">\u003ci>The Midnight Diners\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is a regular collaboration between KQED food editor Luke Tsai and artist Thien Pham. Follow them each week as they explore the hot pot restaurants, taco carts and 24-hour casino buffets that make up the Bay Area’s after-hours dining scene.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fremont’s hottest club is a Pakistani burger shack in a little strip mall on Thornton Avenue.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">\u003cb>\u003cstrong>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/strong>\u003c/b>\u003c/span>That’s what it felt like, anyway, when we pulled up to YSG Halal at 11 o’clock on a recent Friday night. When we visited, the restaurant had only been open for about a week, and everything still felt a bit bare-bones and provisional — with not much in the way of amenities or decor beyond a perfunctory “YSG BAE” Instagram wall. But the place was \u003ci>hopping\u003c/i>, with a steady stream of customers lined up to get their late-night burger fix. Every takeout order seemed massive — six or seven desi burgers and a bunch of milkshakes in one shot. Meanwhile, big groups of twentysomethings crowded around the tables, reaching over each other to get at baskets of loaded fries.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>YSG Halal is the brick-and-mortar descendent of a popular food truck, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/yeeshaansgrubb/?hl=en\">YeeShaans Grubb\u003c/a>, which accounts for its mouthful of an official name: “YSG Halal YeeShaans Grubb.” If you squint the right way, it looks like a regular old slice of Americana from the outside — a little Hopper-esque glass box of a diner where the whole gang can load up on burgers and shakes after the big game.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One point of distinction: At least during our visit, almost all of the other customers appeared to be young people of South Asian descent.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another: the actual food, which is a joyful distillation of the kind of diasporic mash-up you can find in any of the Bay Area’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13904835/san-jose-immigrant-food\">great immigrant food cities\u003c/a>. The backbone of the menu is a selection of six or seven different kinds of desi burgers, which, broadly speaking, refers to a burger with varying degrees of South Asian spicing and toppings — specifically Pakistani and made with halal-certified beef or chicken, in the case of YSG Halal. In the signature “DesYee” beef burger, those notes are relatively subtle: some cumin, coriander and diced onion in the patty give it a little bit of that kebab house flavor. Otherwise, it just eats like a really solid fast-food burger — which, a lot of times, is \u003ci>exactly \u003c/i>what I’m craving when midnight comes around. (Visit a Wendy’s or McDonald’s drive-thru around that time, and you’ll see I’m not the only one.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13952394\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13952394\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Untitled_Artwork-3-1.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration of a restaurant exterior late at night: It's a small burger shop crowded with customers and lit up from within. The sign reads "YSG Halal YeeShaans Grubb."\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Untitled_Artwork-3-1.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Untitled_Artwork-3-1-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Untitled_Artwork-3-1-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Untitled_Artwork-3-1-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Untitled_Artwork-3-1-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Untitled_Artwork-3-1-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The place was hopping at 11 p.m. on a Friday night. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The “ChaplYee” burger, though, was what really sold me. Inspired by the thin, crisply seared chapli kebabs that you can get at any Afghan or Pakistani kebab spot, this beef patty featured the same house masala spice mix as the DesYee burger, but upped the onion quotient by a factor of ten, then added a bunch of chopped chili peppers to give it a spicy kick. The result is utterly delicious — the type of thing Pakistani American families might grill up at exactly the kind of backyard barbecue I’m always hoping I’ll be invited to.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>YSG’s other big specialty is various permutations of saucy, meat-bedecked loaded fries. But coming at the tail end of a long night of indulgent eating, that felt a bit excessive, even to me. As it is, the burgers come with a generous portion of perfectly serviceable seasoned fries. My one tip is to ask for a tub of the pale green, aioli-like “SpiceYee” dipping sauce, a spectacularly addicting condiment that reminded me of the aji verde sauce Peruvian restaurants sometimes serve with rotisserie chicken. And, of course, you’ll want to wash it all down with one of the restaurant’s tasty, lassi-adjacent mango milkshakes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What could be more American than that?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-12127869\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>YSG Halal is open at 4342 Thornton Ave., Ste. A, in Fremont, from Tuesday to Thursday 5 p.m.–midnight, Friday to Saturday 5 p.m.–1 a.m. and Sunday 5–10 p.m. On Friday, Feb. 16, the restaurant will host a \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/C2--DnLPu7x/\">\u003ci>grand opening celebration\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>, complete with a burger eating competition and free burgers for the first 50 guests.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "A Next-Generation Lunar New Year Party in Oakland",
"headTitle": "A Next-Generation Lunar New Year Party in Oakland | KQED",
"content": "\u003cp>For Oakland small business owner Jenn Lui and San Francisco visual artist Hanna Chen, embracing the traditions of their Cantonese and Taiwanese ancestors is a kind of soul-filling nourishment. It’s an imaginative labor that allows for the multi-generational preservation of old-school memories, while forging exciting new ones.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The creative duo is behind an intimate Lunar New Year celebration happening on February 18 at \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/groundfloorclub/?hl=en\">Groundfloor\u003c/a> in Oakland. The get-together will honor nostalgic Asian cultural cornerstones like mahjong, holiday \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/forum/2010101904619/all-you-can-eat-ringing-in-the-lunar-new-year-with-asian-american-desserts\">desserts\u003c/a> and red envelopes. At the same time, it will also create space for modern, up-and-coming makers who are reshaping the possibilities of diasporic joy with tea-based cocktails, flash tattoos and tooth gems.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We’re just reimagining [our cultures] for the current times,” says Lui, the co-founder of \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thisisbabas.house/?hl=en\">Baba’s House\u003c/a>, a specialty Asian snack shop in downtown Oakland. “Mahjong was heavily played as a gambling game in my family, but now it’s a social community type of event. It’s about celebrating those blessings, prosperity, health, and doing it intentionally.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The event will feature live DJs (\u003ca href=\"http://inachu\">Ina Chu\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://jazz.fm/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\" data-saferedirecturl=\"https://www.google.com/url?q=http://JAZZ.FM&source=gmail&ust=1707862337560000&usg=AOvVaw02x83AbDHbRaxDA4ztH9Ee\">JAZZ.FM\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/tomudj/\">TOMU DJ\u003c/a>), foodmakers (including \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/oramasamadumplings/\">Oramasama Dumplings\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/oaklandfortunefactory/\">Oakland Fortune Factory\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/jasonbakessf/\">Jason Bakes\u003c/a>), tattoo artists (\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/proper.tattoo/\">Proper Tattoo\u003c/a>), retail vendors (\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/twotwo.online/\">Two Two\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/jiahomeco/\">JIĀ HOME CO. \u003c/a>and more) and visual artists (\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/mag.dre/\">Mag Dre\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/chrisjcheung/\">Chris Cheung\u003c/a>). In addition, there will be snacks provided by Baba’s House, a DIY red envelope station, an altar to commemorate deceased loved ones, mahjong, raffles and “tea-tails” (alcohol optional) mixed using KACE Tea, a local \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/drinkkace/\">Taiwanese-Filipino brand\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13952055\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13952055\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/7._jason_bakes_2.jpg\" alt=\"a red table featuring Chinese cookies for Lunar New Year\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1536\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/7._jason_bakes_2.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/7._jason_bakes_2-800x640.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/7._jason_bakes_2-1020x816.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/7._jason_bakes_2-160x128.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/7._jason_bakes_2-768x614.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/7._jason_bakes_2-1536x1229.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Taiwanese pineapple cakes from Jason Bakes will be one of the desserts served at the Lunar New Year Festival. \u003ccite>(Courtesy Jenn Lui)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The festivities are part of \u003ca href=\"https://linktr.ee/itsyangsheng\">Yăng Shēng\u003c/a>, a multimedia project launched by Chen and Cai that highlights the evolving expressions of Asian American artists through art installations, photography and community events (a book is forthcoming in 2026). The San Francisco-raised artist says that for her, Lunar New Year has always represented a connection to her parents’ homeland. It’s about transporting herself and others abroad, without actually going very far.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postID='arts_13951648,arts_13924997,arts_13951382']“We want to recreate the feeling of a night market and also take elements from Bay Area events: art gatherings, supper parties, bringing in that club feeling, too. We’re pulling from different pockets of the world like New York, Taipei, Hong Kong, and putting all that into one space for people who might not be able to travel,” Chen says. “This is nudging American culture to be more community-oriented.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The two entrepreneurs, along with Lui’s partner, Alan Chen, are thunderously vocal when it comes to creating a safe space. It’s not something they’ve always experienced as first-generation children of Asian immigrants whose parents and relatives have sometimes questioned their artistic endeavors and cross-cultural expressions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We’re kind of reimagining everything,” Lui says. “When I told my mom about the altar, she asked why we’re doing that. I found that interesting, and I wonder if other folks from that generation don’t see what we’re doing as a positive thing.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13952059\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13952059\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/altar_shot_by_jenn____soulrealjenn.jpg\" alt=\"a table altar featuring photos of deceased family members, incense and treats\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/altar_shot_by_jenn____soulrealjenn.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/altar_shot_by_jenn____soulrealjenn-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/altar_shot_by_jenn____soulrealjenn-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/altar_shot_by_jenn____soulrealjenn-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/altar_shot_by_jenn____soulrealjenn-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/altar_shot_by_jenn____soulrealjenn-1536x1152.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">An altar will be provided inside Groundfloor for attendees to honor their loved ones. \u003ccite>(Jenn Lui)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The generational gap hasn’t stopped them, though. If anything, it encourages them to bridge the various ages and groups of Asian Americans who live here in the Bay Area. For both Lui and Chen, intergenerational reclamation and representation is essential. And doing it in a way that feels authentically curated and creatively expansive is what drives them both.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Our collective experiences span across many decades,” says Chen, who is about 10 years younger than Lui. “We come from really different eras. But we’re all Asian Americans who grew up in the Bay, and I think that connection is special.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Maybe you were an outcast growing up as a person of color, but now you’re a cool kid pushing the culture.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-12127869\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>The Lunar New Year Festival presented by \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thisisbabas.house/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Baba’s House\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> and \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://linktr.ee/itsyangsheng\">\u003ci>Yăng Shēng\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> will take place at \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/groundfloorclub/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Groundfloor\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> (4055 Telegraph Ave., Oakland) on Feb. 18, 1–6 p.m. \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.eventbrite.com/e/babas-house-x-yang-sheng-presents-lunar-new-year-festival-tickets-808221972677?aff=oddtdtcreator\">\u003ci>Tickets\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> are available online for $15–$25.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>For Oakland small business owner Jenn Lui and San Francisco visual artist Hanna Chen, embracing the traditions of their Cantonese and Taiwanese ancestors is a kind of soul-filling nourishment. It’s an imaginative labor that allows for the multi-generational preservation of old-school memories, while forging exciting new ones.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The creative duo is behind an intimate Lunar New Year celebration happening on February 18 at \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/groundfloorclub/?hl=en\">Groundfloor\u003c/a> in Oakland. The get-together will honor nostalgic Asian cultural cornerstones like mahjong, holiday \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/forum/2010101904619/all-you-can-eat-ringing-in-the-lunar-new-year-with-asian-american-desserts\">desserts\u003c/a> and red envelopes. At the same time, it will also create space for modern, up-and-coming makers who are reshaping the possibilities of diasporic joy with tea-based cocktails, flash tattoos and tooth gems.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We’re just reimagining [our cultures] for the current times,” says Lui, the co-founder of \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thisisbabas.house/?hl=en\">Baba’s House\u003c/a>, a specialty Asian snack shop in downtown Oakland. “Mahjong was heavily played as a gambling game in my family, but now it’s a social community type of event. It’s about celebrating those blessings, prosperity, health, and doing it intentionally.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The event will feature live DJs (\u003ca href=\"http://inachu\">Ina Chu\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://jazz.fm/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\" data-saferedirecturl=\"https://www.google.com/url?q=http://JAZZ.FM&source=gmail&ust=1707862337560000&usg=AOvVaw02x83AbDHbRaxDA4ztH9Ee\">JAZZ.FM\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/tomudj/\">TOMU DJ\u003c/a>), foodmakers (including \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/oramasamadumplings/\">Oramasama Dumplings\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/oaklandfortunefactory/\">Oakland Fortune Factory\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/jasonbakessf/\">Jason Bakes\u003c/a>), tattoo artists (\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/proper.tattoo/\">Proper Tattoo\u003c/a>), retail vendors (\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/twotwo.online/\">Two Two\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/jiahomeco/\">JIĀ HOME CO. \u003c/a>and more) and visual artists (\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/mag.dre/\">Mag Dre\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/chrisjcheung/\">Chris Cheung\u003c/a>). In addition, there will be snacks provided by Baba’s House, a DIY red envelope station, an altar to commemorate deceased loved ones, mahjong, raffles and “tea-tails” (alcohol optional) mixed using KACE Tea, a local \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/drinkkace/\">Taiwanese-Filipino brand\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13952055\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13952055\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/7._jason_bakes_2.jpg\" alt=\"a red table featuring Chinese cookies for Lunar New Year\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1536\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/7._jason_bakes_2.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/7._jason_bakes_2-800x640.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/7._jason_bakes_2-1020x816.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/7._jason_bakes_2-160x128.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/7._jason_bakes_2-768x614.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/7._jason_bakes_2-1536x1229.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Taiwanese pineapple cakes from Jason Bakes will be one of the desserts served at the Lunar New Year Festival. \u003ccite>(Courtesy Jenn Lui)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The festivities are part of \u003ca href=\"https://linktr.ee/itsyangsheng\">Yăng Shēng\u003c/a>, a multimedia project launched by Chen and Cai that highlights the evolving expressions of Asian American artists through art installations, photography and community events (a book is forthcoming in 2026). The San Francisco-raised artist says that for her, Lunar New Year has always represented a connection to her parents’ homeland. It’s about transporting herself and others abroad, without actually going very far.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>“We want to recreate the feeling of a night market and also take elements from Bay Area events: art gatherings, supper parties, bringing in that club feeling, too. We’re pulling from different pockets of the world like New York, Taipei, Hong Kong, and putting all that into one space for people who might not be able to travel,” Chen says. “This is nudging American culture to be more community-oriented.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The two entrepreneurs, along with Lui’s partner, Alan Chen, are thunderously vocal when it comes to creating a safe space. It’s not something they’ve always experienced as first-generation children of Asian immigrants whose parents and relatives have sometimes questioned their artistic endeavors and cross-cultural expressions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We’re kind of reimagining everything,” Lui says. “When I told my mom about the altar, she asked why we’re doing that. I found that interesting, and I wonder if other folks from that generation don’t see what we’re doing as a positive thing.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13952059\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13952059\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/altar_shot_by_jenn____soulrealjenn.jpg\" alt=\"a table altar featuring photos of deceased family members, incense and treats\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/altar_shot_by_jenn____soulrealjenn.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/altar_shot_by_jenn____soulrealjenn-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/altar_shot_by_jenn____soulrealjenn-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/altar_shot_by_jenn____soulrealjenn-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/altar_shot_by_jenn____soulrealjenn-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/altar_shot_by_jenn____soulrealjenn-1536x1152.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">An altar will be provided inside Groundfloor for attendees to honor their loved ones. \u003ccite>(Jenn Lui)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The generational gap hasn’t stopped them, though. If anything, it encourages them to bridge the various ages and groups of Asian Americans who live here in the Bay Area. For both Lui and Chen, intergenerational reclamation and representation is essential. And doing it in a way that feels authentically curated and creatively expansive is what drives them both.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Our collective experiences span across many decades,” says Chen, who is about 10 years younger than Lui. “We come from really different eras. But we’re all Asian Americans who grew up in the Bay, and I think that connection is special.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Maybe you were an outcast growing up as a person of color, but now you’re a cool kid pushing the culture.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-12127869\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>The Lunar New Year Festival presented by \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thisisbabas.house/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Baba’s House\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> and \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://linktr.ee/itsyangsheng\">\u003ci>Yăng Shēng\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> will take place at \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/groundfloorclub/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Groundfloor\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> (4055 Telegraph Ave., Oakland) on Feb. 18, 1–6 p.m. \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.eventbrite.com/e/babas-house-x-yang-sheng-presents-lunar-new-year-festival-tickets-808221972677?aff=oddtdtcreator\">\u003ci>Tickets\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> are available online for $15–$25.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "Wings Cost Less and Beer’s Flat: Super Bowl Fans Are Expected to Splurge",
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"content": "\u003cp>More than 100 million people in the United States are expected to watch the Super Bowl this weekend. Some will tune in for the football, others for \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13873945/the-weird-and-not-very-wonderful-history-of-the-super-bowl-halftime-show\">the half-time show\u003c/a> or the commercials, and some \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13951795/super-bowl-bay-area-taylor-swift-fans-travis-kelce-49ers\">just to see Taylor Swift\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But there’s one thing \u003cem>most\u003c/em> people will do: Eat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postid='arts_13951795']Some restaurants have been preparing for this moment for months.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We would talk to our meat vendor over the summer and ask them to freeze pallets of wings or at least pre-purchase for us at a certain, agreed-up on price,” says Marc Schechter, owner of \u003ca href=\"https://squarepieguys.com/\">Square Pie Guys\u003c/a> pizza in San Francisco — home of the 49s who face off against the Kansas City Chiefs on Sunday. “We were trying very early on to lock in a lower price.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Schechter expects to go through a whole lot of wings this weekend, along with a couple thousand pounds of mozzarella cheese for his deep-dish pizzas. He and his team began battering wings on Thursday, days before the big game.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That planning will help, as fans are expected to splurge. Whether ordering out for pizza and wings or cooking up nachos at home, the average Super Bowl fan is expected to spend about $43 on food and drinks this Sunday, \u003ca href=\"https://www.circana.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/02/2024-Super-Bowl-Spend.pdf\">according to the market research firm Circana\u003c/a>. That’s 23% more than last year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“It’s a celebration,” says Circana vice president Joan Driggs. “You’re going to do what you want to do. Maybe it’s your tradition. Maybe you’re adding a little something to the mix to spice it up. But people are going to go all in.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It helps that wages are now outpacing inflation and food prices have moderated over the last year. Wings, in particular, are plentiful this season and prices have fallen for the second year in a row. \u003ca href=\"https://www.wellsfargo.com/com/insights/agri-food-intelligence/wells-fargo-reveals-top-pick-super-bowl/#:~:text=The%202024%20Super%20Bowl%20celebration,a%20touchdown%20in%20job%20growth.\">Research from Wells Fargo \u003c/a>shows fresh chicken wing prices have dropped about 5% from last year while the price of frozen wings has fallen about 11%.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Kansas City restaurant expects brisk business for its hickory-smoked ribs and brisket\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>Beef prices, on the other hand, continue to climb, as cattle ranchers slowly rebuild their herds after years of drought. That means Chiefs fans may have to pay more for a Kansas City strip steak or barbecued ribs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nevertheless, Gates Bar-B-Q in Kansas City expects to do a brisk take-out business this weekend.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“‘There’s so many people that are coming in from out of town for friends and family,” says Arzelia Gates, whose grandfather started the barbecue business almost 80 years ago. “We are very much a part of that.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postid='arts_13951768']Gates says even with elevated beef prices, customers are hungry for the restaurant’s hickory-smoked ribs and brisket.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We use three stages so it gives you the tenderness of the meat,” she says. “And then we get that smoky flavor throughout.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Although grocery prices are still high, they haven’t increased much in the past year — just 1.3% overall. And some foods, like shrimp, have actually gotten cheaper.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Some people are going to get lucky this year,” says Michael Swanson, a food economist at Wells Fargo. “The people that love shrimp are lucky and the guys who have to have that burger are going to pay a little bit more.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13952029\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13952029\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/gettyimages-1369643597-376a83033e6763d50d4d923872a90e2d2380e079-scaled-e1707504593665.jpg\" alt=\"Avocados, cut in half.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1439\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Grocery prices have risen just 1.3% over the last year, while wages have jumped more than three times as fast. \u003ccite>(Justin Sullivan/ Getty Images)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Beer and guacamole are ok, but chips and dip are more expensive\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>Guacamole and beer prices are essentially flat — rising less than 1% over the last year. (This is one case where “flat” in connection with beer is a good thing.) But prices are still climbing for other Super Bowl staples such as chips and dip and especially soft drinks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Soda prices have risen sharply since the beginning of the pandemic, which is partly the result of costly aluminum cans.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Super Bowl hosts “might want to think about those 2-liter bottles with some ice and some cups,” Swanson says. “They really save you a lot of money.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postid='arts_13873945']While savvy shoppers may try to save on some items, Swanson expects a lot of people to spend freely this Super Bowl. They’ve got money in their pockets, since wages have risen faster than food prices this past year. And there are 2.9 million more jobs now than there were a year ago.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“For all the issues that we have — and they’re real issues — people have to appreciate the fact that it’s going to be a blowout Super Bowl,” Swanson says. “Most people, when they have a job they’re going to spend money.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Restaurant owners Schechter and Gates say it’s a super opportunity to eat, drink and celebrate, no matter which team you’re rooting for.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Go ‘Niners,” Schechter says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And Gates chimes in, “Go Chiefs.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cdiv class=\"fullattribution\">\u003cem>Copyright 2024 NPR. To see more, \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org\">visit NPR\u003c/a>.\u003cimg decoding=\"async\" src=\"https://www.google-analytics.com/__utm.gif?utmac=UA-5828686-4&utmdt=Good+thing%2C+wings+cost+less+and+beer%27s+flat%3A+Super+Bowl+fans+are+expected+to+splurge+&utme=8(APIKey)9(MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004)\">\u003c/em>\u003c/div>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>More than 100 million people in the United States are expected to watch the Super Bowl this weekend. Some will tune in for the football, others for \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13873945/the-weird-and-not-very-wonderful-history-of-the-super-bowl-halftime-show\">the half-time show\u003c/a> or the commercials, and some \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13951795/super-bowl-bay-area-taylor-swift-fans-travis-kelce-49ers\">just to see Taylor Swift\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But there’s one thing \u003cem>most\u003c/em> people will do: Eat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>Some restaurants have been preparing for this moment for months.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We would talk to our meat vendor over the summer and ask them to freeze pallets of wings or at least pre-purchase for us at a certain, agreed-up on price,” says Marc Schechter, owner of \u003ca href=\"https://squarepieguys.com/\">Square Pie Guys\u003c/a> pizza in San Francisco — home of the 49s who face off against the Kansas City Chiefs on Sunday. “We were trying very early on to lock in a lower price.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Schechter expects to go through a whole lot of wings this weekend, along with a couple thousand pounds of mozzarella cheese for his deep-dish pizzas. He and his team began battering wings on Thursday, days before the big game.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That planning will help, as fans are expected to splurge. Whether ordering out for pizza and wings or cooking up nachos at home, the average Super Bowl fan is expected to spend about $43 on food and drinks this Sunday, \u003ca href=\"https://www.circana.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/02/2024-Super-Bowl-Spend.pdf\">according to the market research firm Circana\u003c/a>. That’s 23% more than last year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“It’s a celebration,” says Circana vice president Joan Driggs. “You’re going to do what you want to do. Maybe it’s your tradition. Maybe you’re adding a little something to the mix to spice it up. But people are going to go all in.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It helps that wages are now outpacing inflation and food prices have moderated over the last year. Wings, in particular, are plentiful this season and prices have fallen for the second year in a row. \u003ca href=\"https://www.wellsfargo.com/com/insights/agri-food-intelligence/wells-fargo-reveals-top-pick-super-bowl/#:~:text=The%202024%20Super%20Bowl%20celebration,a%20touchdown%20in%20job%20growth.\">Research from Wells Fargo \u003c/a>shows fresh chicken wing prices have dropped about 5% from last year while the price of frozen wings has fallen about 11%.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Kansas City restaurant expects brisk business for its hickory-smoked ribs and brisket\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>Beef prices, on the other hand, continue to climb, as cattle ranchers slowly rebuild their herds after years of drought. That means Chiefs fans may have to pay more for a Kansas City strip steak or barbecued ribs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nevertheless, Gates Bar-B-Q in Kansas City expects to do a brisk take-out business this weekend.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“‘There’s so many people that are coming in from out of town for friends and family,” says Arzelia Gates, whose grandfather started the barbecue business almost 80 years ago. “We are very much a part of that.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>Gates says even with elevated beef prices, customers are hungry for the restaurant’s hickory-smoked ribs and brisket.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We use three stages so it gives you the tenderness of the meat,” she says. “And then we get that smoky flavor throughout.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Although grocery prices are still high, they haven’t increased much in the past year — just 1.3% overall. And some foods, like shrimp, have actually gotten cheaper.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Some people are going to get lucky this year,” says Michael Swanson, a food economist at Wells Fargo. “The people that love shrimp are lucky and the guys who have to have that burger are going to pay a little bit more.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13952029\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13952029\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/gettyimages-1369643597-376a83033e6763d50d4d923872a90e2d2380e079-scaled-e1707504593665.jpg\" alt=\"Avocados, cut in half.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1439\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Grocery prices have risen just 1.3% over the last year, while wages have jumped more than three times as fast. \u003ccite>(Justin Sullivan/ Getty Images)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Beer and guacamole are ok, but chips and dip are more expensive\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>Guacamole and beer prices are essentially flat — rising less than 1% over the last year. (This is one case where “flat” in connection with beer is a good thing.) But prices are still climbing for other Super Bowl staples such as chips and dip and especially soft drinks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Soda prices have risen sharply since the beginning of the pandemic, which is partly the result of costly aluminum cans.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Super Bowl hosts “might want to think about those 2-liter bottles with some ice and some cups,” Swanson says. “They really save you a lot of money.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>While savvy shoppers may try to save on some items, Swanson expects a lot of people to spend freely this Super Bowl. They’ve got money in their pockets, since wages have risen faster than food prices this past year. And there are 2.9 million more jobs now than there were a year ago.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“For all the issues that we have — and they’re real issues — people have to appreciate the fact that it’s going to be a blowout Super Bowl,” Swanson says. “Most people, when they have a job they’re going to spend money.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Restaurant owners Schechter and Gates say it’s a super opportunity to eat, drink and celebrate, no matter which team you’re rooting for.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Go ‘Niners,” Schechter says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And Gates chimes in, “Go Chiefs.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cdiv class=\"fullattribution\">\u003cem>Copyright 2024 NPR. To see more, \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org\">visit NPR\u003c/a>.\u003cimg decoding=\"async\" src=\"https://www.google-analytics.com/__utm.gif?utmac=UA-5828686-4&utmdt=Good+thing%2C+wings+cost+less+and+beer%27s+flat%3A+Super+Bowl+fans+are+expected+to+splurge+&utme=8(APIKey)9(MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004)\">\u003c/em>\u003c/div>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13951921\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13951921\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Untitled_Artwork-3.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration of two men in glasses eating Dungeness crab enthusiastically, breaking it apart with their hands. They're wearing plastic gloves.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Untitled_Artwork-3.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Untitled_Artwork-3-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Untitled_Artwork-3-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Untitled_Artwork-3-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Untitled_Artwork-3-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Untitled_Artwork-3-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Dungeness crab and garlic noodles at San Bruno’s A-One Kitchen hold their own against any restaurant in the Bay — and they’re available until 1 a.m. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/the-midnight-diners\">The Midnight Diners\u003c/a> is a regular collaboration between KQED food editor Luke Tsai and artist Thien Pham. Follow them each week as they explore the hot pot restaurants, taco carts and 24-hour casino buffets that make up the Bay Area’s after-hours dining scene.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There’s late-night food you’re grateful for because it fills your belly when everything else is closed. And then there’s what they serve at San Bruno’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.aonekitchensanbrunoca.com/\">A-One Kitchen and Bar\u003c/a> until 1 a.m. every night: heaping platters of garlic butter crab and garlic noodles that are so delicious, I’d be willing to travel a long distance to eat them, at any time of day.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sleepy downtown San Bruno doesn’t \u003ci>seem \u003c/i>like an obvious nexus for late-night dining — or it doesn’t, anyway, until you drive down San Mateo Avenue on a Friday night and see \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/artichoke_joes_casino/\">Artichoke Joe’s\u003c/a>, the city’s 100-plus-year-old casino, looming brightly over the horizon. Spend a few minutes watching the poker players shuffle out, maybe a bit woozy after a bad beat, and then the cluster of restaurants slinging relatively inexpensive, calorie-intensive food well past midnight starts to make perfect sense.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Located directly across the street from the casino, A-One Kitchen looks much like how I imagined a little family-run, late-night Thai-Chinese spot might look — a cheerful mix of red leather booths, bright lights (from five or six different sources, half of them blinking) and live sports on TV. The menu is a similarly lively hodgepodge of different Asian cuisines: red curries from Thailand and short rib pho from Vietnam, stir-fried eggplant oomphed up with funky Malaysian belacan and good old-fashioned American Chinese broccoli beef.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But we had come with a single-minded purpose: to try the garlic butter Dungeness crab (market price, which turned out to be $48 for a strapping 2.5-pound specimen) and a side of garlic noodles.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Friends, this is the kind of crab feast you dream about. The crab comes out a little less saucy than similarly garlic-and-butter-laden versions you’ll find at Viet seafood icons like Thanh Long and PPQ, but perfectly juicy and topped with about twice as much chopped garlic — a salty, umami-laden counterpoint to the crab’s sweet, succulent flesh. Donning plastic gloves, we tore that crustacean apart with our hands in about 20 minutes flat, leaving behind nothing but an empty carcass and a stack of hollowed-out limbs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13951926\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13951926\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Untitled_Artwork-2-1.jpg\" alt='Illustration of the exterior of a restaurant on a rainy day. The sign reads, \"A-ONE BAR\"' width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Untitled_Artwork-2-1.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Untitled_Artwork-2-1-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Untitled_Artwork-2-1-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Untitled_Artwork-2-1-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Untitled_Artwork-2-1-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Untitled_Artwork-2-1-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The restaurant is located directly across the street from the Artichoke Joe’s casino. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>At A-One Kitchen, the crab comes with French fries on the plate, a kind of ingenious addition that gives you something crispy and starchy to dip in that garlicky mash. But you’ll also want to order a bowl of white rice so that you have something to mix with the rich, creamy crab fat that lines the inside of the carapace. (IYKYK: crab fat rice might be the best part of the entire meal.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">\u003cb>\u003cstrong>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13951382,arts_13900855,arts_13923127']\u003c/span>\u003c/strong>\u003c/b>\u003c/span>And, even if triple-carbing it seems outrageous, you also definitely need to order the garlic noodles, which are some of the best I’ve had — thick, chewy, super-savory (not sweet like some places) and extra-extra-garlicky. \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13900855/garlic-noodles-sf-bay-area-iconic-foods-thanh-long-smellys\">It’s the ideal complement to Dungeness crab\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Is this the best garlic butter crab and garlic noodles you can snag after midnight in the Bay Area? I’d put money on it. Is it the best garlic crab and garlic noodles you can get in the Bay at any time of day whatsoever?? Also, quite possibly, yes! It belongs in the conversation, at the very least.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The quality of the food at A-One Kitchen helps explain why the crowd is a little bit more mixed than what you often find at late-night restaurants. Yes, sports bros sitting at the bar who seemed to have wandered over from the casino, but also elderly Asian couples enjoying a bowl of hot soup. Add to that the warm friendliness of the service — “How \u003ci>are\u003c/i> you? Long time no see!” to every other customer, it seemed — and I could really see myself becoming a regular.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-12127869\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.aonekitchensanbrunoca.com/\">\u003ci>A-One Kitchen and Bar\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is open 5 p.m.–1 a.m. daily, except for Wednesdays, when the restaurant is closed.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "A-One Kitchen illustrates the difference between late-night struggle food and late-night food that’s truly great.",
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"title": "The Best Late-Night Crab and Garlic Noodles in San Bruno | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13951921\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13951921\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Untitled_Artwork-3.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration of two men in glasses eating Dungeness crab enthusiastically, breaking it apart with their hands. They're wearing plastic gloves.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Untitled_Artwork-3.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Untitled_Artwork-3-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Untitled_Artwork-3-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Untitled_Artwork-3-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Untitled_Artwork-3-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Untitled_Artwork-3-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Dungeness crab and garlic noodles at San Bruno’s A-One Kitchen hold their own against any restaurant in the Bay — and they’re available until 1 a.m. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/the-midnight-diners\">The Midnight Diners\u003c/a> is a regular collaboration between KQED food editor Luke Tsai and artist Thien Pham. Follow them each week as they explore the hot pot restaurants, taco carts and 24-hour casino buffets that make up the Bay Area’s after-hours dining scene.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There’s late-night food you’re grateful for because it fills your belly when everything else is closed. And then there’s what they serve at San Bruno’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.aonekitchensanbrunoca.com/\">A-One Kitchen and Bar\u003c/a> until 1 a.m. every night: heaping platters of garlic butter crab and garlic noodles that are so delicious, I’d be willing to travel a long distance to eat them, at any time of day.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sleepy downtown San Bruno doesn’t \u003ci>seem \u003c/i>like an obvious nexus for late-night dining — or it doesn’t, anyway, until you drive down San Mateo Avenue on a Friday night and see \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/artichoke_joes_casino/\">Artichoke Joe’s\u003c/a>, the city’s 100-plus-year-old casino, looming brightly over the horizon. Spend a few minutes watching the poker players shuffle out, maybe a bit woozy after a bad beat, and then the cluster of restaurants slinging relatively inexpensive, calorie-intensive food well past midnight starts to make perfect sense.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Located directly across the street from the casino, A-One Kitchen looks much like how I imagined a little family-run, late-night Thai-Chinese spot might look — a cheerful mix of red leather booths, bright lights (from five or six different sources, half of them blinking) and live sports on TV. The menu is a similarly lively hodgepodge of different Asian cuisines: red curries from Thailand and short rib pho from Vietnam, stir-fried eggplant oomphed up with funky Malaysian belacan and good old-fashioned American Chinese broccoli beef.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But we had come with a single-minded purpose: to try the garlic butter Dungeness crab (market price, which turned out to be $48 for a strapping 2.5-pound specimen) and a side of garlic noodles.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Friends, this is the kind of crab feast you dream about. The crab comes out a little less saucy than similarly garlic-and-butter-laden versions you’ll find at Viet seafood icons like Thanh Long and PPQ, but perfectly juicy and topped with about twice as much chopped garlic — a salty, umami-laden counterpoint to the crab’s sweet, succulent flesh. Donning plastic gloves, we tore that crustacean apart with our hands in about 20 minutes flat, leaving behind nothing but an empty carcass and a stack of hollowed-out limbs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13951926\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13951926\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Untitled_Artwork-2-1.jpg\" alt='Illustration of the exterior of a restaurant on a rainy day. The sign reads, \"A-ONE BAR\"' width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Untitled_Artwork-2-1.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Untitled_Artwork-2-1-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Untitled_Artwork-2-1-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Untitled_Artwork-2-1-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Untitled_Artwork-2-1-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Untitled_Artwork-2-1-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The restaurant is located directly across the street from the Artichoke Joe’s casino. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>At A-One Kitchen, the crab comes with French fries on the plate, a kind of ingenious addition that gives you something crispy and starchy to dip in that garlicky mash. But you’ll also want to order a bowl of white rice so that you have something to mix with the rich, creamy crab fat that lines the inside of the carapace. (IYKYK: crab fat rice might be the best part of the entire meal.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">\u003cb>\u003cstrong>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/strong>\u003c/b>\u003c/span>And, even if triple-carbing it seems outrageous, you also definitely need to order the garlic noodles, which are some of the best I’ve had — thick, chewy, super-savory (not sweet like some places) and extra-extra-garlicky. \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13900855/garlic-noodles-sf-bay-area-iconic-foods-thanh-long-smellys\">It’s the ideal complement to Dungeness crab\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Is this the best garlic butter crab and garlic noodles you can snag after midnight in the Bay Area? I’d put money on it. Is it the best garlic crab and garlic noodles you can get in the Bay at any time of day whatsoever?? Also, quite possibly, yes! It belongs in the conversation, at the very least.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The quality of the food at A-One Kitchen helps explain why the crowd is a little bit more mixed than what you often find at late-night restaurants. Yes, sports bros sitting at the bar who seemed to have wandered over from the casino, but also elderly Asian couples enjoying a bowl of hot soup. Add to that the warm friendliness of the service — “How \u003ci>are\u003c/i> you? Long time no see!” to every other customer, it seemed — and I could really see myself becoming a regular.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-12127869\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.aonekitchensanbrunoca.com/\">\u003ci>A-One Kitchen and Bar\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is open 5 p.m.–1 a.m. daily, except for Wednesdays, when the restaurant is closed.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "Food, Glorious Food (and Other Pleasures) in ‘The Taste of Things’",
"headTitle": "Food, Glorious Food (and Other Pleasures) in ‘The Taste of Things’ | KQED",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cem>The Taste of Things\u003c/em> should come with a warning: Audiences may be tempted to abandon work as they know it and start a beautiful, calm new life in the French countryside devoted to the culinary arts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postid='arts_13951641']There is something rather cruel about releasing a film this lovely and voyeuristic in the dead of February, in which the cinematic gardens are lush, the game is fresh, the atmosphere is tranquil, the distractions are non-existent, the conversations are intellectual and the goal is shared. But maybe that’s why we need movies like this. It’s pure escapism and the cost of the movie ticket is slightly more affordable.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The film is fictional, a sort of prequel to Marcel Rouff’s \u003cem>The Life and Passion of Dodin-Bouffant, Gourmet \u003c/em>from 1924, itself loosely inspired by 19th century French epicure Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin. But the food is real, imagined by three-star chef Pierre Gagnaire and prepared on set by Michel Nave. Far from that ugly, almost meaningless phrase “food porn,” \u003cem>The Taste of Things\u003c/em> is a cinematic expression of the art of cuisine. The sounds of cooking provide the score. The visuals seem to transcend the screen in a very mystical way.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cKKCGtoIOVY\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Director and screenwriter Trần Anh Hùng and cinematographer Jonathan Ricquebourg use the camera as almost a sous chef, letting the audience feel like they’re in the flurry of everything in the kitchen as well. It is not chaotic like \u003cem>The Bear\u003c/em> or any number of those shouty reality shows. This is more like a ballet — precise, delicate and quiet. And the luminous Juliette Binoche is the regal principal, guiding the proceedings with grace and a slightly undone bun.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, there’s a story here, too, the side dish to the main course, which focuses on Dodin’s (Benoît Magimel) relationship with his cook Eugénie (Binoche). Theirs is a long and deep companionship, forged by a shared passion for food and a mutual respect that belies normal dynamics between boss and employee. It is kind of the ultimate in intimacy, being on the same page about quality and pairings and the seemingly very mundane, ordinary question of “What are we eating tonight?” Dodin wants to marry her. She refuses. It’s a conversation they’ve probably had many times before and perhaps why the dynamic continues to work.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postid='arts_13950994']There is a moving story in here about love in ones “autumn years” as Dodin calls it. Everything is understated and lovely, including their very adult conversations about marriage and the right to lock their doors at night. There are some tropey flourishes, too, like a precocious young girl reciting flavor notes with suspicious specificity, and foreshadowing illness by showing a character who suddenly feels faint. They stand out as common choices in a film that is anything but.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hùng won the best director award for \u003cem>The Taste of Things\u003c/em> at the Cannes Film Festival last year, and it was selected to represent France in the Oscars but was passed over for a nomination. This technicality should not dissuade anyone from being interested in the film — just a reminder of how unfair it is that all of world cinema is reduced to five nominations every year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Just make sure you either go in satiated or with set plans for your post-viewing meal. In our world of gross TikTok hacks for one pot meals, it’s a balm to see things slowed down and with many, many beautifully rustic copper pots and cast-iron pans. And don’t be surprised if everyone suddenly starts making pot-au-feu, which, come to think of it, is actually a perfect meal for February.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-medium wp-image-12127869\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/arts/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-800x78.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>‘The Taste of Things’ is released in select cities, including San Francisco, on Feb. 9, 2024. It will reach screens nationwide on Feb. 14.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cem>The Taste of Things\u003c/em> should come with a warning: Audiences may be tempted to abandon work as they know it and start a beautiful, calm new life in the French countryside devoted to the culinary arts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>There is something rather cruel about releasing a film this lovely and voyeuristic in the dead of February, in which the cinematic gardens are lush, the game is fresh, the atmosphere is tranquil, the distractions are non-existent, the conversations are intellectual and the goal is shared. But maybe that’s why we need movies like this. It’s pure escapism and the cost of the movie ticket is slightly more affordable.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The film is fictional, a sort of prequel to Marcel Rouff’s \u003cem>The Life and Passion of Dodin-Bouffant, Gourmet \u003c/em>from 1924, itself loosely inspired by 19th century French epicure Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin. But the food is real, imagined by three-star chef Pierre Gagnaire and prepared on set by Michel Nave. Far from that ugly, almost meaningless phrase “food porn,” \u003cem>The Taste of Things\u003c/em> is a cinematic expression of the art of cuisine. The sounds of cooking provide the score. The visuals seem to transcend the screen in a very mystical way.\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/cKKCGtoIOVY'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/cKKCGtoIOVY'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cp>Director and screenwriter Trần Anh Hùng and cinematographer Jonathan Ricquebourg use the camera as almost a sous chef, letting the audience feel like they’re in the flurry of everything in the kitchen as well. It is not chaotic like \u003cem>The Bear\u003c/em> or any number of those shouty reality shows. This is more like a ballet — precise, delicate and quiet. And the luminous Juliette Binoche is the regal principal, guiding the proceedings with grace and a slightly undone bun.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, there’s a story here, too, the side dish to the main course, which focuses on Dodin’s (Benoît Magimel) relationship with his cook Eugénie (Binoche). Theirs is a long and deep companionship, forged by a shared passion for food and a mutual respect that belies normal dynamics between boss and employee. It is kind of the ultimate in intimacy, being on the same page about quality and pairings and the seemingly very mundane, ordinary question of “What are we eating tonight?” Dodin wants to marry her. She refuses. It’s a conversation they’ve probably had many times before and perhaps why the dynamic continues to work.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>There is a moving story in here about love in ones “autumn years” as Dodin calls it. Everything is understated and lovely, including their very adult conversations about marriage and the right to lock their doors at night. There are some tropey flourishes, too, like a precocious young girl reciting flavor notes with suspicious specificity, and foreshadowing illness by showing a character who suddenly feels faint. They stand out as common choices in a film that is anything but.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hùng won the best director award for \u003cem>The Taste of Things\u003c/em> at the Cannes Film Festival last year, and it was selected to represent France in the Oscars but was passed over for a nomination. This technicality should not dissuade anyone from being interested in the film — just a reminder of how unfair it is that all of world cinema is reduced to five nominations every year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Just make sure you either go in satiated or with set plans for your post-viewing meal. In our world of gross TikTok hacks for one pot meals, it’s a balm to see things slowed down and with many, many beautifully rustic copper pots and cast-iron pans. And don’t be surprised if everyone suddenly starts making pot-au-feu, which, come to think of it, is actually a perfect meal for February.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-medium wp-image-12127869\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/arts/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-800x78.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>‘The Taste of Things’ is released in select cities, including San Francisco, on Feb. 9, 2024. It will reach screens nationwide on Feb. 14.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">A few months ago, my wife — who, like me, is an avid pizza head — sent me news about an interesting new style of pizza we’d never heard of, but wanted to devour: mochi pizza.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Served at \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/mochikomochipizza/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Mochiko\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> in Burlingame, the rare, rectangular pies use mochigome — a form of Japanese glutinous rice that is steamed then turned into a chewy paste — instead of traditional flour dough. Though we haven’t been able to make the trip out to Burlingame yet (\u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/11973704/things-to-do-bay-area-with-children\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">it’s not always easy getting out of the house with an infant\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">), it’s on my short list of foods I’m willing to pay my share of gas money to try.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13931296,arts_13928196']\u003c/span>With Japanese-inspired flavors like chicken curry (which features chicken karaage and Japanese curry) in addition to classics like pepperoni, Mochiko appears to be carving (slicing?) out a niche lane as what they claim to be \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.sfgate.com/food/article/bay-area-mochiko-mochi-pizza-opening-18457749.php\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">the first ever mochi pizzeria\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. The idea, it seems, is to create a \u003ca href=\"https://www.mochipizza.com/faq/\">gluten-free crust\u003c/a> that combines \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/restaurants/article/best-new-bay-area-18517990.php\">crispy outer edges\u003c/a> with a stretchy, chewy interior. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Now, the restaurant is making it even easier for Bay Area eaters to experience the mochi fusion by introducing a second location — essentially a new menu available inside the Palo Alto branch of \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/sushirrito/?hl=en\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Sushirrito\u003c/span>\u003c/a>. (P\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">erhaps unsurprisingly, t\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">he owners of Mochiko are also the ones behind that hybrid sushi burrito chain.) \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Having soft-launched at the end of January, Mochiko’s new outpost will celebrate its official grand opening on Friday, Feb. 9 — which also happens to be National Pizza Day. To add extra sauce to their deal, the Palo Alto shop will serve free slices that day, from 4 to 6 p.m. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Since it’s easier for me to get to this location, expect to find me finally checking mochi pizza off my things-you-can-only-eat-in-the-Bay-Area bingo card. I’m sure I won’t be the only one.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-12127869\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/mochikomochipizza/\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Mochiko Mochi Pizza\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> (448 University Ave., Palo Alto, inside Sushirrito) will host its grand opening on Fri., Feb. 9, when it will serve free slices from 4 to 6 p.m. Moving forward, the restaurant will be open daily from noon to 8 p.m.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">A few months ago, my wife — who, like me, is an avid pizza head — sent me news about an interesting new style of pizza we’d never heard of, but wanted to devour: mochi pizza.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Served at \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/mochikomochipizza/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Mochiko\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> in Burlingame, the rare, rectangular pies use mochigome — a form of Japanese glutinous rice that is steamed then turned into a chewy paste — instead of traditional flour dough. Though we haven’t been able to make the trip out to Burlingame yet (\u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/11973704/things-to-do-bay-area-with-children\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">it’s not always easy getting out of the house with an infant\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">), it’s on my short list of foods I’m willing to pay my share of gas money to try.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>With Japanese-inspired flavors like chicken curry (which features chicken karaage and Japanese curry) in addition to classics like pepperoni, Mochiko appears to be carving (slicing?) out a niche lane as what they claim to be \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.sfgate.com/food/article/bay-area-mochiko-mochi-pizza-opening-18457749.php\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">the first ever mochi pizzeria\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. The idea, it seems, is to create a \u003ca href=\"https://www.mochipizza.com/faq/\">gluten-free crust\u003c/a> that combines \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/restaurants/article/best-new-bay-area-18517990.php\">crispy outer edges\u003c/a> with a stretchy, chewy interior. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Now, the restaurant is making it even easier for Bay Area eaters to experience the mochi fusion by introducing a second location — essentially a new menu available inside the Palo Alto branch of \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/sushirrito/?hl=en\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Sushirrito\u003c/span>\u003c/a>. (P\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">erhaps unsurprisingly, t\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">he owners of Mochiko are also the ones behind that hybrid sushi burrito chain.) \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Having soft-launched at the end of January, Mochiko’s new outpost will celebrate its official grand opening on Friday, Feb. 9 — which also happens to be National Pizza Day. To add extra sauce to their deal, the Palo Alto shop will serve free slices that day, from 4 to 6 p.m. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Since it’s easier for me to get to this location, expect to find me finally checking mochi pizza off my things-you-can-only-eat-in-the-Bay-Area bingo card. I’m sure I won’t be the only one.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-12127869\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/mochikomochipizza/\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Mochiko Mochi Pizza\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> (448 University Ave., Palo Alto, inside Sushirrito) will host its grand opening on Fri., Feb. 9, when it will serve free slices from 4 to 6 p.m. Moving forward, the restaurant will be open daily from noon to 8 p.m.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "What's a Sea Urchin Party — and How Do I Throw One?",
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"content": "\u003cp>My biggest secret is a set of geographic coordinates I keep in an unnamed tab of my Notes app. There you’ll find my heart, and you’ll also find dinner.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Whenever I can, I pack friends into my car and head up the coast from Oakland. We zip through cypress groves, scour the horizon for the dragon-like exhales of gray whales, scuttle down rocks like crabs and then we find it: orange starfish in tight knots, pink boulders with seaweed curtain bangs, and sea urchins — thousands of them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And we should be eating more of them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In California, over 95 percent of coastal kelp is gone, and the ecosystem is in crisis. While Indigenous folks have eaten these urchins for generations, colonization and unchecked resource extraction have wreaked havoc on regional ecology. Warming waters and over-hunting the marine mammals that once brought balance to the ecosystem have led to an overpopulation of Pacific purple sea urchins. And while sprawling urchin barrens sound like an uni’s paradise — there’s one that stretches \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2021/10/04/dining/california-sea-urchin-kelp-coastline.html\">400 miles from Marin County to Oregon\u003c/a> — they really aren’t. Exponential growth and a limited food source mean the urchins are starving. And it’s not a quick death: They can starve for decades, devouring any young kelp that’s struggling to revive the forest.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13951463\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13951463\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01119.jpg\" alt=\"Three people stand in a tidepool searching among the rocks and kelp for live sea urchins.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01119.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01119-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01119-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01119-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01119-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01119-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Along with friends Dimitri Diagne and Angie Sijun Lou, the author (right) searches for sea urchins and mussels at her top-secret foraging spot. \u003ccite>(James Gebilaguin)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>But year-round in Northern California, you can still find sea urchins swelling with plump, yolky gonads, though they vary in size and quantity depending on the season and location. They’re creamy and delicious but wildly expensive. That is, unless you harvest them yourself.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In my amateur experience, winter — so, like, right now — is the best time for a fruitful visit to the tidepools. So here’s how to find them, open them and throw the most memorable party ever, while educating yourself and your loved ones about the history of these habitats and the consequences of exploitation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A word to the wise: I’m no marine biologist or commercial fisherman, and going out into tidepool territory can be dicey, from rogue waves to the health risks that come with eating raw, wild seafood. Please forage and consume at your own risk, and go with someone who knows what they’re doing if it’s your first time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13951465\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13951465\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01073.jpg\" alt=\"A woman in black stands at the edge of a tidepool looking down toward the water.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01073.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01073-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01073-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01073-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01073-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01073-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Taking in the view. \u003ccite>(James Gebilaguin)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>\u003cb>The Spot \u003c/b>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>You can find a gathering spot by trial and error, like my family did, or check out well-known urchin foraging destinations such as Pillar Point in Half Moon Bay or Fort Ross in Mendocino. There are designated places along the coast where it’s okay to collect and other marine protected areas where it may be illegal, so refer to \u003ca href=\"https://wildlife.ca.gov/Conservation/Marine/MPAs\">these guidelines\u003c/a> from the California Department of Fish and Wildlife.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13923127,arts_13935854']\u003c/span>Wherever you go in search of urchins, you’ll find yourself at the staggering edge of the continent. With all the salty spray and swooping seabirds, your heart will feel full, maybe for the first time in a while. In short, a lovely way to spend a day with friends.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And when you do find the spiky creatures in their foamy homes, do me and the ocean a favor and hold one in your bare palm — they won’t hurt you. Delicate tentacles will emerge from among their blunt spines with curious intent, and they might even scooch softly across your hand.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even though Pacific purple urchins aren’t venomous, make sure to stay up to date on \u003ca href=\"https://www.cdph.ca.gov/Programs/OPA/Pages/Shellfish-Advisories.aspx#:~:text=For%20updated%20information%20on%20shellfish,CDPH%20Recreational%20Shellfish%20Advisory%20Map.\">shellfish advisories\u003c/a> and call the toll-free biotoxin hotline (1-800-553-4133) to make sure the uni is safe to eat under current conditions. You’ll also need a \u003ca href=\"https://wildlife.ca.gov/Licensing/Online-Sales\">fishing license\u003c/a>, which grants you 35 purple sea urchins per outing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13951464\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13951464\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01112.jpg\" alt=\"A purple sea urchin held up with a three-pronged garden tool.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01112.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01112-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01112-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01112-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01112-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01112-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A three-pronged garden tiller can be repurposed into an excellent tool for prying sea urchins from the rocks. \u003ccite>(James Gebilaguin)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>\u003cb>The Tools\u003c/b>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>You’ll need a cooler to store the urchins, some gloves if you want extra hand protection and something like a three-pronged garden tiller to pry the urchins from the rocks with swift force. They stick like velcro and can use some extra oomph. Online tide schedules are also your friend. Even a few feet of water can obscure thousands of urchins from view.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once you get home, you’ll need a pair of kitchen shears, some crab crackers and a few quiet moments to take in the bounty you’ve been gifted.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>\u003cb>The Party\u003c/b>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>The ocean is special and these urchins are special, so do right by them. Get a nice little beverage and maybe boil some pasta. My friends and I usually bring back mussels, too, to make a linguini.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you’ve collected a few dozen urchins and made a big ol’ thing of rice and steamed some veggies, you can easily feed a group of five. Stretch a little, shuffle your best chill nighttime playlist, give your friends a pep talk and then begin the real work.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13951458\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13951458\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01220.jpg\" alt=\"Two hands cradling a spiky purple sea urchin.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01220.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01220-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01220-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01220-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01220-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01220-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Don’t be afraid to hold the sea urchin in your bare palm — it won’t hurt you. \u003ccite>(James Gebilaguin)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>\u003cb>The Shuck \u003c/b>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>In a clean kitchen sink with a trash can nearby and nothing close that you can’t stand getting stained, position an urchin mouth-side up — you’ll see an opening with the urchin’s beak peeking out. With your kitchen shears, cut the tissue around the beak in a circle. Once the beak is detached, pull it out with your shears and toss it. Now you have an opening to pry open the urchin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To crack open the urchin, you can either cut perpendicularly from the crevice with your shears or set the urchin on the bottom of the sink, jam a pair of closed crab crackers into the opening and firmly open the crackers to split the shell open.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13951460\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13951460\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01200.jpg\" alt=\"Four photos showing the steps to crack open a sea urchin: detaching the beak, prying the shell open, washing out the debris and then, finally, removing the creamy, orange gonad.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01200.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01200-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01200-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01200-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01200-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01200-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Removing the uni from the shell requires a bit of practice. Clockwise from top left: 1) Detaching the beak; 2) prying open the shell; 3) removing the uni; and 4) rinsing it clean. \u003ccite>(James Gebilaguin)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Run cold water over the insides of the urchin. Hopefully there’ll be sunny orange uni, but there will also be guts and maybe some small rocks and sea veggies that the urchin was munching on — and it’ll smell as good as you’d smell if you’d just eaten a handful of seaweed and pebbles. You’ll want to rinse as much detritus as you can.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Delicately release the uni by running your finger (or a spoon) between the uni and the inside of the shell. This part takes some practice, and it’s okay if they fall apart sometimes. You can rinse the uni under cold water and put them on a plate lined with some paper towels.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13951457\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13951457\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01268.jpg\" alt=\"Overhead view of a sea urchin feast: individual portions of seafood pasta and a plate of raw uni lobes in the center.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01268.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01268-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01268-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01268-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01268-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01268-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A few dozen purple sea urchins can easily feed a party of five. \u003ccite>(James Gebilaguin)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>\u003cb>The Eating Part of the Party\u003c/b>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>You’ve been on quite the journey, and now it’s time to come together at the table, reflect on the day and dig in. Uni is custardy, sweet and briny all at once — like if the word “umami” fell off the page in a creamy orange heap and presented itself to you, no condiments needed. Raw is the best way to enjoy uni, in my humble opinion. It gets sad and disintegrates if you sauté it in a pan with butter — trust me, I’ve tried. I like to eat uni fresh over rice with soft-scrambled eggs, some soy sauce and maybe a dollop of crème fraîche. You can also spoon it over pasta or straight into your mouth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Later, after you’ve savored every custardy bite with fingers stained an inky magenta, remember the creatures’ gentle but formidable life force in your hands. It’s a loving reminder of their place in the ecosystem — and yours, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13951455\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13951455\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01277.jpg\" alt=\"Plates of pasta, mussels and fresh uni laid out on a dining table with glasses of red wine.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01277.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01277-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01277-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01277-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01277-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01277-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The reward for your long day’s journey. \u003ccite>(James Gebilaguin)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-12127869\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>The FDA offers the following \u003ca href=\"https://www.fda.gov/food/buy-store-serve-safe-food/selecting-and-serving-fresh-and-frozen-seafood-safely#:~:text=It's%20always%20best%20to%20cook,parasites%20that%20may%20be%20present.\">guidelines\u003c/a> for safe seafood consumption. Take the above suggestions around raw seafood collection and consumption at your own risk.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "I’ve been throwing sea urchin parties for years. They're a delicious way to help the coastal ecosystem.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>My biggest secret is a set of geographic coordinates I keep in an unnamed tab of my Notes app. There you’ll find my heart, and you’ll also find dinner.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Whenever I can, I pack friends into my car and head up the coast from Oakland. We zip through cypress groves, scour the horizon for the dragon-like exhales of gray whales, scuttle down rocks like crabs and then we find it: orange starfish in tight knots, pink boulders with seaweed curtain bangs, and sea urchins — thousands of them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And we should be eating more of them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In California, over 95 percent of coastal kelp is gone, and the ecosystem is in crisis. While Indigenous folks have eaten these urchins for generations, colonization and unchecked resource extraction have wreaked havoc on regional ecology. Warming waters and over-hunting the marine mammals that once brought balance to the ecosystem have led to an overpopulation of Pacific purple sea urchins. And while sprawling urchin barrens sound like an uni’s paradise — there’s one that stretches \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2021/10/04/dining/california-sea-urchin-kelp-coastline.html\">400 miles from Marin County to Oregon\u003c/a> — they really aren’t. Exponential growth and a limited food source mean the urchins are starving. And it’s not a quick death: They can starve for decades, devouring any young kelp that’s struggling to revive the forest.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13951463\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13951463\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01119.jpg\" alt=\"Three people stand in a tidepool searching among the rocks and kelp for live sea urchins.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01119.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01119-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01119-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01119-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01119-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01119-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Along with friends Dimitri Diagne and Angie Sijun Lou, the author (right) searches for sea urchins and mussels at her top-secret foraging spot. \u003ccite>(James Gebilaguin)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>But year-round in Northern California, you can still find sea urchins swelling with plump, yolky gonads, though they vary in size and quantity depending on the season and location. They’re creamy and delicious but wildly expensive. That is, unless you harvest them yourself.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In my amateur experience, winter — so, like, right now — is the best time for a fruitful visit to the tidepools. So here’s how to find them, open them and throw the most memorable party ever, while educating yourself and your loved ones about the history of these habitats and the consequences of exploitation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A word to the wise: I’m no marine biologist or commercial fisherman, and going out into tidepool territory can be dicey, from rogue waves to the health risks that come with eating raw, wild seafood. Please forage and consume at your own risk, and go with someone who knows what they’re doing if it’s your first time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13951465\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13951465\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01073.jpg\" alt=\"A woman in black stands at the edge of a tidepool looking down toward the water.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01073.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01073-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01073-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01073-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01073-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01073-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Taking in the view. \u003ccite>(James Gebilaguin)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>\u003cb>The Spot \u003c/b>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>You can find a gathering spot by trial and error, like my family did, or check out well-known urchin foraging destinations such as Pillar Point in Half Moon Bay or Fort Ross in Mendocino. There are designated places along the coast where it’s okay to collect and other marine protected areas where it may be illegal, so refer to \u003ca href=\"https://wildlife.ca.gov/Conservation/Marine/MPAs\">these guidelines\u003c/a> from the California Department of Fish and Wildlife.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>Wherever you go in search of urchins, you’ll find yourself at the staggering edge of the continent. With all the salty spray and swooping seabirds, your heart will feel full, maybe for the first time in a while. In short, a lovely way to spend a day with friends.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And when you do find the spiky creatures in their foamy homes, do me and the ocean a favor and hold one in your bare palm — they won’t hurt you. Delicate tentacles will emerge from among their blunt spines with curious intent, and they might even scooch softly across your hand.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even though Pacific purple urchins aren’t venomous, make sure to stay up to date on \u003ca href=\"https://www.cdph.ca.gov/Programs/OPA/Pages/Shellfish-Advisories.aspx#:~:text=For%20updated%20information%20on%20shellfish,CDPH%20Recreational%20Shellfish%20Advisory%20Map.\">shellfish advisories\u003c/a> and call the toll-free biotoxin hotline (1-800-553-4133) to make sure the uni is safe to eat under current conditions. You’ll also need a \u003ca href=\"https://wildlife.ca.gov/Licensing/Online-Sales\">fishing license\u003c/a>, which grants you 35 purple sea urchins per outing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13951464\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13951464\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01112.jpg\" alt=\"A purple sea urchin held up with a three-pronged garden tool.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01112.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01112-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01112-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01112-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01112-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01112-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A three-pronged garden tiller can be repurposed into an excellent tool for prying sea urchins from the rocks. \u003ccite>(James Gebilaguin)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>\u003cb>The Tools\u003c/b>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>You’ll need a cooler to store the urchins, some gloves if you want extra hand protection and something like a three-pronged garden tiller to pry the urchins from the rocks with swift force. They stick like velcro and can use some extra oomph. Online tide schedules are also your friend. Even a few feet of water can obscure thousands of urchins from view.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once you get home, you’ll need a pair of kitchen shears, some crab crackers and a few quiet moments to take in the bounty you’ve been gifted.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>\u003cb>The Party\u003c/b>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>The ocean is special and these urchins are special, so do right by them. Get a nice little beverage and maybe boil some pasta. My friends and I usually bring back mussels, too, to make a linguini.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you’ve collected a few dozen urchins and made a big ol’ thing of rice and steamed some veggies, you can easily feed a group of five. Stretch a little, shuffle your best chill nighttime playlist, give your friends a pep talk and then begin the real work.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13951458\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13951458\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01220.jpg\" alt=\"Two hands cradling a spiky purple sea urchin.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01220.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01220-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01220-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01220-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01220-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01220-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Don’t be afraid to hold the sea urchin in your bare palm — it won’t hurt you. \u003ccite>(James Gebilaguin)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>\u003cb>The Shuck \u003c/b>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>In a clean kitchen sink with a trash can nearby and nothing close that you can’t stand getting stained, position an urchin mouth-side up — you’ll see an opening with the urchin’s beak peeking out. With your kitchen shears, cut the tissue around the beak in a circle. Once the beak is detached, pull it out with your shears and toss it. Now you have an opening to pry open the urchin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To crack open the urchin, you can either cut perpendicularly from the crevice with your shears or set the urchin on the bottom of the sink, jam a pair of closed crab crackers into the opening and firmly open the crackers to split the shell open.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13951460\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13951460\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01200.jpg\" alt=\"Four photos showing the steps to crack open a sea urchin: detaching the beak, prying the shell open, washing out the debris and then, finally, removing the creamy, orange gonad.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01200.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01200-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01200-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01200-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01200-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01200-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Removing the uni from the shell requires a bit of practice. Clockwise from top left: 1) Detaching the beak; 2) prying open the shell; 3) removing the uni; and 4) rinsing it clean. \u003ccite>(James Gebilaguin)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Run cold water over the insides of the urchin. Hopefully there’ll be sunny orange uni, but there will also be guts and maybe some small rocks and sea veggies that the urchin was munching on — and it’ll smell as good as you’d smell if you’d just eaten a handful of seaweed and pebbles. You’ll want to rinse as much detritus as you can.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Delicately release the uni by running your finger (or a spoon) between the uni and the inside of the shell. This part takes some practice, and it’s okay if they fall apart sometimes. You can rinse the uni under cold water and put them on a plate lined with some paper towels.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13951457\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13951457\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01268.jpg\" alt=\"Overhead view of a sea urchin feast: individual portions of seafood pasta and a plate of raw uni lobes in the center.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01268.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01268-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01268-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01268-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01268-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01268-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A few dozen purple sea urchins can easily feed a party of five. \u003ccite>(James Gebilaguin)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>\u003cb>The Eating Part of the Party\u003c/b>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>You’ve been on quite the journey, and now it’s time to come together at the table, reflect on the day and dig in. Uni is custardy, sweet and briny all at once — like if the word “umami” fell off the page in a creamy orange heap and presented itself to you, no condiments needed. Raw is the best way to enjoy uni, in my humble opinion. It gets sad and disintegrates if you sauté it in a pan with butter — trust me, I’ve tried. I like to eat uni fresh over rice with soft-scrambled eggs, some soy sauce and maybe a dollop of crème fraîche. You can also spoon it over pasta or straight into your mouth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Later, after you’ve savored every custardy bite with fingers stained an inky magenta, remember the creatures’ gentle but formidable life force in your hands. It’s a loving reminder of their place in the ecosystem — and yours, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13951455\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13951455\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01277.jpg\" alt=\"Plates of pasta, mussels and fresh uni laid out on a dining table with glasses of red wine.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01277.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01277-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01277-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01277-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01277-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01277-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The reward for your long day’s journey. \u003ccite>(James Gebilaguin)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-12127869\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>The FDA offers the following \u003ca href=\"https://www.fda.gov/food/buy-store-serve-safe-food/selecting-and-serving-fresh-and-frozen-seafood-safely#:~:text=It's%20always%20best%20to%20cook,parasites%20that%20may%20be%20present.\">guidelines\u003c/a> for safe seafood consumption. Take the above suggestions around raw seafood collection and consumption at your own risk.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"slug": "chinese-skewers-are-the-last-bastion-of-late-night-dining-in-the-bay",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13951383\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13951383\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DYNASTY-BBQ-1920X1920.jpeg\" alt=\"An illustration of a tray of Chinese grilled meat skewers, including kebab-style lamb and beef, pork intestines, whole shrimp and whole fish.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DYNASTY-BBQ-1920X1920.jpeg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DYNASTY-BBQ-1920X1920-800x800.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DYNASTY-BBQ-1920X1920-1020x1020.jpeg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DYNASTY-BBQ-1920X1920-160x160.jpeg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DYNASTY-BBQ-1920X1920-768x768.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DYNASTY-BBQ-1920X1920-1536x1536.jpeg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">At Newark’s Dynasty BBQ, you can get chewy-crisp pork intestines, chicken gristle and whole fish grilled on a stick — in addition to the usual beef and lamb skewers. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/the-midnight-diners\">The Midnight Diners\u003c/a>\u003ci> is a regular collaboration between KQED food editor Luke Tsai and artist Thien Pham\u003c/i>. \u003ci>Follow them each week as they explore the hot pot restaurants, taco carts and 24-hour casino buffets that make up the Bay Area’s after-hours dining scene.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Bay Area has always been a tough place to be an incorrigible late-night snacker — and the triple whammy of the pandemic, a brittle economy and the prevailing “doom loop” narrative have winnowed down the options even further. (Did you know, for example, that even the \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13896138/ling-nam-starbread-filipino-bakery-senorita-bread-24-hour-daly-city-open\">24-hour Starbread\u003c/a> in Daly City now closes at 9 p.m.?)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We live in the \u003ci>epicenter\u003c/i> of the 8 or 9 o’clock last call.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The one notable exception, apparently? Chinese skewers. Even now, if you search online for what’s still open, say, past 10 p.m. on any given day, you’ll find a preponderance of Chinese restaurants with the word “\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bbq\">BBQ\u003c/a>” in their name, scattered in suburbs like Dublin, Fremont and San Mateo. All of them specialize in the heavily spiced, cumin-forward grilled meat sticks that you’ll find sold on the street in northwestern China.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That’s what we were craving on a recent Friday night when we drove to a Newark strip mall in search of \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/oyama_bbq/\">Dynasty BBQ\u003c/a>, which was a bit tricky to find if only because the place just recently changed its signage, having merged with a \u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/dynasty-bbq-san-mateo-3\">San Mateo skewer spot\u003c/a> of the same name. Online, it’s still listed as “\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/oyama-bbq-newark-7\">Oyama BBQ\u003c/a>.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dynasty has this particular kind of high-low vibe that immediately charmed me: On the one hand, there was the traditional \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Guzheng\">guzheng\u003c/a> music and elegant decor, down to the paper lanterns and the dozens of faux cherry blossoms hanging from the ceiling, like you’re dining in some Ming Dynasty temple courtyard. On the other hand, we were eating and drinking off the same kind of paper plates and plastic cups you would get at a child’s birthday party.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13951387\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13951387\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/dynasty-decor.jpg\" alt=\"Spring blossoms and paper lanterns hanging from the ceiling of a traditionally decorated Chinese restaurant.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/dynasty-decor.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/dynasty-decor-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/dynasty-decor-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/dynasty-decor-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/dynasty-decor-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/dynasty-decor-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The vibes are immaculate. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The food hit the spot. More often than not, this is exactly what I want to be eating when I get hungry late at night — something salty and fatty that goes down expeditiously well with cold beer. The skewers all have the same standard spice coating that’s ubiquitous at this type of Chinese barbecue spot: a lot of cumin, ground chiles and Sichuan peppercorn.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">\u003cb>\u003cstrong>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13950577,arts_13936332,arts_13933006']\u003c/span>\u003c/strong>\u003c/b>\u003c/span>At Dynasty, most of the sticks run just $2 to $4 an order, so we got a couple bowls of white rice and really went to town. Classic beef and lamb skewers that burst with hot, fatty juice when you bite in. Whole fish (yellow croakers) skewered onto the stick and grilled until the skin crackles and pops — pure pleasure to pick off the bones. Every kind of innard you can imagine, from crunchy chicken gristle to one of my favorites, pork intestines — the chewy-crisp, fatty Elastic Band King of the meat stick world.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Everything’s cooked to order in the kitchen (this isn’t one of those grill-it-yourself deals), so I’m not even sure if one of our surprise favorites was even prepared on the grill at all: a whole eggplant splayed open and cooked until the flesh is oozy soft, then topped with what appeared to be a whole head’s worth of chopped garlic.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dynasty is the kind of place where you can eat well — and eat a lot — for $20 or $30 a person. My pro tip? Get just a few skewers at a time and order more as you go. The best bite is the first bite after that meat stick hits the table, when food is at its crisp-edged best and almost too hot to eat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-12127869\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>The Newark location of Dynasty BBQ (5492 Central Ave., Newark) is open Mon. through Fri. from 5 p.m. to midnight, and from noon to 2:30 p.m. and 5 to 11 p.m. on Saturday and Sunday. It has a \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/oyama_bbq/\">\u003ci>sister location\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> in San Mateo.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13951383\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13951383\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DYNASTY-BBQ-1920X1920.jpeg\" alt=\"An illustration of a tray of Chinese grilled meat skewers, including kebab-style lamb and beef, pork intestines, whole shrimp and whole fish.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DYNASTY-BBQ-1920X1920.jpeg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DYNASTY-BBQ-1920X1920-800x800.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DYNASTY-BBQ-1920X1920-1020x1020.jpeg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DYNASTY-BBQ-1920X1920-160x160.jpeg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DYNASTY-BBQ-1920X1920-768x768.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DYNASTY-BBQ-1920X1920-1536x1536.jpeg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">At Newark’s Dynasty BBQ, you can get chewy-crisp pork intestines, chicken gristle and whole fish grilled on a stick — in addition to the usual beef and lamb skewers. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/the-midnight-diners\">The Midnight Diners\u003c/a>\u003ci> is a regular collaboration between KQED food editor Luke Tsai and artist Thien Pham\u003c/i>. \u003ci>Follow them each week as they explore the hot pot restaurants, taco carts and 24-hour casino buffets that make up the Bay Area’s after-hours dining scene.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Bay Area has always been a tough place to be an incorrigible late-night snacker — and the triple whammy of the pandemic, a brittle economy and the prevailing “doom loop” narrative have winnowed down the options even further. (Did you know, for example, that even the \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13896138/ling-nam-starbread-filipino-bakery-senorita-bread-24-hour-daly-city-open\">24-hour Starbread\u003c/a> in Daly City now closes at 9 p.m.?)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We live in the \u003ci>epicenter\u003c/i> of the 8 or 9 o’clock last call.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The one notable exception, apparently? Chinese skewers. Even now, if you search online for what’s still open, say, past 10 p.m. on any given day, you’ll find a preponderance of Chinese restaurants with the word “\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bbq\">BBQ\u003c/a>” in their name, scattered in suburbs like Dublin, Fremont and San Mateo. All of them specialize in the heavily spiced, cumin-forward grilled meat sticks that you’ll find sold on the street in northwestern China.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That’s what we were craving on a recent Friday night when we drove to a Newark strip mall in search of \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/oyama_bbq/\">Dynasty BBQ\u003c/a>, which was a bit tricky to find if only because the place just recently changed its signage, having merged with a \u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/dynasty-bbq-san-mateo-3\">San Mateo skewer spot\u003c/a> of the same name. Online, it’s still listed as “\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/oyama-bbq-newark-7\">Oyama BBQ\u003c/a>.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dynasty has this particular kind of high-low vibe that immediately charmed me: On the one hand, there was the traditional \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Guzheng\">guzheng\u003c/a> music and elegant decor, down to the paper lanterns and the dozens of faux cherry blossoms hanging from the ceiling, like you’re dining in some Ming Dynasty temple courtyard. On the other hand, we were eating and drinking off the same kind of paper plates and plastic cups you would get at a child’s birthday party.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13951387\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13951387\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/dynasty-decor.jpg\" alt=\"Spring blossoms and paper lanterns hanging from the ceiling of a traditionally decorated Chinese restaurant.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/dynasty-decor.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/dynasty-decor-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/dynasty-decor-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/dynasty-decor-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/dynasty-decor-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/dynasty-decor-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The vibes are immaculate. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The food hit the spot. More often than not, this is exactly what I want to be eating when I get hungry late at night — something salty and fatty that goes down expeditiously well with cold beer. The skewers all have the same standard spice coating that’s ubiquitous at this type of Chinese barbecue spot: a lot of cumin, ground chiles and Sichuan peppercorn.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">\u003cb>\u003cstrong>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/strong>\u003c/b>\u003c/span>At Dynasty, most of the sticks run just $2 to $4 an order, so we got a couple bowls of white rice and really went to town. Classic beef and lamb skewers that burst with hot, fatty juice when you bite in. Whole fish (yellow croakers) skewered onto the stick and grilled until the skin crackles and pops — pure pleasure to pick off the bones. Every kind of innard you can imagine, from crunchy chicken gristle to one of my favorites, pork intestines — the chewy-crisp, fatty Elastic Band King of the meat stick world.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Everything’s cooked to order in the kitchen (this isn’t one of those grill-it-yourself deals), so I’m not even sure if one of our surprise favorites was even prepared on the grill at all: a whole eggplant splayed open and cooked until the flesh is oozy soft, then topped with what appeared to be a whole head’s worth of chopped garlic.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dynasty is the kind of place where you can eat well — and eat a lot — for $20 or $30 a person. My pro tip? Get just a few skewers at a time and order more as you go. The best bite is the first bite after that meat stick hits the table, when food is at its crisp-edged best and almost too hot to eat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-12127869\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>The Newark location of Dynasty BBQ (5492 Central Ave., Newark) is open Mon. through Fri. from 5 p.m. to midnight, and from noon to 2:30 p.m. and 5 to 11 p.m. on Saturday and Sunday. It has a \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/oyama_bbq/\">\u003ci>sister location\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> in San Mateo.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"info": "What kind of no sabo word is Hyphenación? For us, it’s about living within a hyphenation. Like being a third-gen Mexican-American from the Texas border now living that Bay Area Chicano life. Like Xorje! Each week we bring together a couple of hyphenated Latinos to talk all about personal life choices: family, careers, relationships, belonging … everything is on the table. ",
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"info": "The Political Mind of Jerry Brown brings listeners the wisdom of the former Governor, Mayor, and presidential candidate. Scott Shafer interviewed Brown for more than 40 hours, covering the former governor's life and half-century in the political game – and Brown has some lessons he'd like to share. ",
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"info": "Our flagship program, helmed by Kai Ryssdal, examines what the day in money delivered, through stories, conversations, newsworthy numbers and more. Updated Monday through Friday at about 3:30 p.m. PT.",
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"mindshift": {
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"info": "The MindShift podcast explores the innovations in education that are shaping how kids learn. Hosts Ki Sung and Katrina Schwartz introduce listeners to educators, researchers, parents and students who are developing effective ways to improve how kids learn. We cover topics like how fed-up administrators are developing surprising tactics to deal with classroom disruptions; how listening to podcasts are helping kids develop reading skills; the consequences of overparenting; and why interdisciplinary learning can engage students on all ends of the traditional achievement spectrum. This podcast is part of the MindShift education site, a division of KQED News. KQED is an NPR/PBS member station based in San Francisco. You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>",
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"order": 12
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"info": "\u003cem>Morning Edition\u003c/em> takes listeners around the country and the world with multi-faceted stories and commentaries every weekday. Hosts Steve Inskeep, David Greene and Rachel Martin bring you the latest breaking news and features to prepare you for the day.",
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"info": "For decades, the process for how police police themselves has been inconsistent – if not opaque. In some states, like California, these proceedings were completely hidden. After a new police transparency law unsealed scores of internal affairs files, our reporters set out to examine these cases and the shadow world of police discipline. On Our Watch brings listeners into the rooms where officers are questioned and witnesses are interrogated to find out who this system is really protecting. Is it the officers, or the public they've sworn to serve?",
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"info": "Our weekly podcast explores how the media 'sausage' is made, casts an incisive eye on fluctuations in the marketplace of ideas, and examines threats to the freedom of information and expression in America and abroad. For one hour a week, the show tries to lift the veil from the process of \"making media,\" especially news media, because it's through that lens that we see the world and the world sees us",
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"perspectives": {
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"planet-money": {
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"info": "The economy explained. Imagine you could call up a friend and say, Meet me at the bar and tell me what's going on with the economy. Now imagine that's actually a fun evening.",
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"politicalbreakdown": {
"id": "politicalbreakdown",
"title": "Political Breakdown",
"tagline": "Politics from a personal perspective",
"info": "Political Breakdown is a new series that explores the political intersection of California and the nation. Each week hosts Scott Shafer and Marisa Lagos are joined with a new special guest to unpack politics -- with personality — and offer an insider’s glimpse at how politics happens.",
"airtime": "THU 6:30pm-7pm",
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"possible": {
"id": "possible",
"title": "Possible",
"info": "Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.",
"airtime": "SUN 2pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Possible-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.possible.fm/",
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"source": "Possible"
},
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},
"pri-the-world": {
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"title": "PRI's The World: Latest Edition",
"info": "Each weekday, host Marco Werman and his team of producers bring you the world's most interesting stories in an hour of radio that reminds us just how small our planet really is.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 2pm-3pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/The-World-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
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},
"radiolab": {
"id": "radiolab",
"title": "Radiolab",
"info": "A two-time Peabody Award-winner, Radiolab is an investigation told through sounds and stories, and centered around one big idea. In the Radiolab world, information sounds like music and science and culture collide. Hosted by Jad Abumrad and Robert Krulwich, the show is designed for listeners who demand skepticism, but appreciate wonder. WNYC Studios is the producer of other leading podcasts including Freakonomics Radio, Death, Sex & Money, On the Media and many more.",
"airtime": "SUN 12am-1am, SAT 2pm-3pm",
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},
"reveal": {
"id": "reveal",
"title": "Reveal",
"info": "Created by The Center for Investigative Reporting and PRX, Reveal is public radios first one-hour weekly radio show and podcast dedicated to investigative reporting. Credible, fact based and without a partisan agenda, Reveal combines the power and artistry of driveway moment storytelling with data-rich reporting on critically important issues. The result is stories that inform and inspire, arming our listeners with information to right injustices, hold the powerful accountable and improve lives.Reveal is hosted by Al Letson and showcases the award-winning work of CIR and newsrooms large and small across the nation. In a radio and podcast market crowded with choices, Reveal focuses on important and often surprising stories that illuminate the world for our listeners.",
"airtime": "SAT 4pm-5pm",
"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/reveal300px.png",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.revealnews.org/episodes/",
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"source": "npr"
},
"link": "/radio/program/reveal",
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"rss": "http://feeds.revealradio.org/revealpodcast"
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},
"rightnowish": {
"id": "rightnowish",
"title": "Rightnowish",
"tagline": "Art is where you find it",
"info": "Rightnowish digs into life in the Bay Area right now… ish. Journalist Pendarvis Harshaw takes us to galleries painted on the sides of liquor stores in West Oakland. We'll dance in warehouses in the Bayview, make smoothies with kids in South Berkeley, and listen to classical music in a 1984 Cutlass Supreme in Richmond. Every week, Pen talks to movers and shakers about how the Bay Area shapes what they create, and how they shape the place we call home.",
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"source": "kqed",
"order": 16
},
"link": "/podcasts/rightnowish",
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