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"title": "Golden State Plate: The Fishy Origins of Cioppino",
"headTitle": "Golden State Plate: The Fishy Origins of Cioppino | KQED",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/the-california-report-magazine/id1314750545?mt=2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Listen to this and more in-depth storytelling by subscribing to The California Report Magazine podcast.\u003c/a>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I grew up eating my Italian grandmother Mimi’s homemade cioppino. She served the delicious seafood stew (with a huge loaf of garlic bread) whenever a group of us gathered at her house for dinner. All it took was one pot to stuff us to the brim.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But even though I have lived in the Bay Area now for over a decade, I had no idea that cioppino was invented on \u003ca href=\"http://www.fishermanswharf.org/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">San Francisco’s Fisherman’s Wharf.\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11698109\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-11698109\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32776_FishermansWharf2009-qut-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32776_FishermansWharf2009-qut-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32776_FishermansWharf2009-qut-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32776_FishermansWharf2009-qut-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32776_FishermansWharf2009-qut-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32776_FishermansWharf2009-qut.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32776_FishermansWharf2009-qut-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32776_FishermansWharf2009-qut-960x720.jpg 960w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32776_FishermansWharf2009-qut-240x180.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32776_FishermansWharf2009-qut-375x281.jpg 375w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32776_FishermansWharf2009-qut-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">San Francisco’s Fisherman’s Wharf is the birthplace of cioppino. \u003ccite>(Wikimedia: Nicholas A. Chadwick)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>So I started my quest for the stew’s truth at a restaurant aptly named Cioppino’s, located right on Fisherman’s Wharf. There I met Mia Harriman, Cioppino’s general manager.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11698107\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-11698107 size-medium\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32403_IMG_3875-qut-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32403_IMG_3875-qut-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32403_IMG_3875-qut-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32403_IMG_3875-qut-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32403_IMG_3875-qut-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32403_IMG_3875-qut.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32403_IMG_3875-qut-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32403_IMG_3875-qut-960x720.jpg 960w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32403_IMG_3875-qut-240x180.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32403_IMG_3875-qut-375x281.jpg 375w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32403_IMG_3875-qut-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mia Harriman is the general manager at Cioppino’s, an Italian restaurant on Fisherman’s Wharf in San Francisco. \u003ccite>(Bianca Taylor/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>She tells me cioppino is one of those dishes that has no \u003cem>exact \u003c/em>recipe — something that I actually did know from watching Mimi in the kitchen. As long as you start with a tomato-based broth, you can throw in any kind of seafood you like: snapper, crab legs, mussels, crabs, shrimp, calamari … you name it, you can add it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Considering San Francisco is surrounded by fishable waters, it makes sense that the city was the birthplace of this iconic seafood stew.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As we look out her office window onto the bay, Harriman explains that the origin of cioppino — and its name — derive from the Italian fishermen in the early 1900s, when Fisherman’s Wharf was still called \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Meiggs_Wharf\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Meiggs’ Wharf\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11698118\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-11698118\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32405_IMG_3877-qut-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32405_IMG_3877-qut-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32405_IMG_3877-qut-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32405_IMG_3877-qut-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32405_IMG_3877-qut-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32405_IMG_3877-qut.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32405_IMG_3877-qut-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32405_IMG_3877-qut-960x720.jpg 960w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32405_IMG_3877-qut-240x180.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32405_IMG_3877-qut-375x281.jpg 375w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32405_IMG_3877-qut-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The view of the bay and Hyde Street Pier from Mia Harriman’s office window. \u003ccite>(Bianca Taylor/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Picture San Francisco more than 100 years ago: Meiggs’ Wharf jutted into the water near Powell Street and extended nearly 2,000 feet offshore. It was destroyed in the 1906 earthquake, but until then, it was where Italian immigrants — mainly from \u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/maps/x9r24RFZCbH2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Genoa\u003c/a> — made their livelihoods as fishermen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11698108\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 799px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-11698108\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32775_800px-Photograph_of_Fishermans_Wharf_in_San_Francisco_California_ca._1891_-_ca._1891_-_NARA_-_513106-qut-1.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"799\" height=\"469\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32775_800px-Photograph_of_Fishermans_Wharf_in_San_Francisco_California_ca._1891_-_ca._1891_-_NARA_-_513106-qut-1.jpg 799w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32775_800px-Photograph_of_Fishermans_Wharf_in_San_Francisco_California_ca._1891_-_ca._1891_-_NARA_-_513106-qut-1-160x94.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32775_800px-Photograph_of_Fishermans_Wharf_in_San_Francisco_California_ca._1891_-_ca._1891_-_NARA_-_513106-qut-1-240x141.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32775_800px-Photograph_of_Fishermans_Wharf_in_San_Francisco_California_ca._1891_-_ca._1891_-_NARA_-_513106-qut-1-375x220.jpg 375w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32775_800px-Photograph_of_Fishermans_Wharf_in_San_Francisco_California_ca._1891_-_ca._1891_-_NARA_-_513106-qut-1-520x305.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 799px) 100vw, 799px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A photograph of San Francisco’s wharf, circa 1891. \u003ccite>(Wikimedia Commons: U.S. National Archives and Records Administration)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Harriman says it was \u003ci>these \u003c/i>fishermen who invented what we know now as cioppino sometime between 1850 and 1880.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11698110\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-11698110\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32779_Photograph_of_Italian_Fishermen_on_a_Wharf_in_San_Francisco_California_ca._1891_-_ca._1891_-_NARA_-_513107-qut-800x466.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"466\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32779_Photograph_of_Italian_Fishermen_on_a_Wharf_in_San_Francisco_California_ca._1891_-_ca._1891_-_NARA_-_513107-qut-800x466.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32779_Photograph_of_Italian_Fishermen_on_a_Wharf_in_San_Francisco_California_ca._1891_-_ca._1891_-_NARA_-_513107-qut-160x93.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32779_Photograph_of_Italian_Fishermen_on_a_Wharf_in_San_Francisco_California_ca._1891_-_ca._1891_-_NARA_-_513107-qut-1020x594.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32779_Photograph_of_Italian_Fishermen_on_a_Wharf_in_San_Francisco_California_ca._1891_-_ca._1891_-_NARA_-_513107-qut-1200x699.jpg 1200w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32779_Photograph_of_Italian_Fishermen_on_a_Wharf_in_San_Francisco_California_ca._1891_-_ca._1891_-_NARA_-_513107-qut.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32779_Photograph_of_Italian_Fishermen_on_a_Wharf_in_San_Francisco_California_ca._1891_-_ca._1891_-_NARA_-_513107-qut-1180x688.jpg 1180w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32779_Photograph_of_Italian_Fishermen_on_a_Wharf_in_San_Francisco_California_ca._1891_-_ca._1891_-_NARA_-_513107-qut-960x560.jpg 960w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32779_Photograph_of_Italian_Fishermen_on_a_Wharf_in_San_Francisco_California_ca._1891_-_ca._1891_-_NARA_-_513107-qut-240x140.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32779_Photograph_of_Italian_Fishermen_on_a_Wharf_in_San_Francisco_California_ca._1891_-_ca._1891_-_NARA_-_513107-qut-375x219.jpg 375w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32779_Photograph_of_Italian_Fishermen_on_a_Wharf_in_San_Francisco_California_ca._1891_-_ca._1891_-_NARA_-_513107-qut-520x303.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Photograph of Italian fishermen on a wharf in San Francisco, California, circa 1891. \u003ccite>(Wikimedia: U.S. National Archives and Records Administration)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“One fisherman would toss a nice fat fish into the bucket, and another would drop in a succulent Dungeness crab, and others some herbs and vegetables,” Harriman says of how the soup first started.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And as for its name?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“The cry that prompted each contribution was ‘Chip In! Chip In!’ But coming from an Italian throat, this American slang had to end in a vowel, so ‘cioppino’ was born.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cute, right? I was all in on this “cioppino, chip in” story … until I spoke to Erica Peters, director of the \u003ca href=\"https://www.chonc.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Culinary Historians of Northern California\u003c/a> and author of the book “\u003ca href=\"https://rowman.com/ISBN/9780759121515/San-Francisco-A-Food-Biography\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">San Francisco: A Food Biography\u003c/a>“.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I meet with Peters at her home, one of the first things she tells me is: “There’s a lot of fake lore in food history.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She admits “cioppino, chip in” is a nice story, but adds, “Linguistically, it makes much more sense to think of it as coming from the Northern Italian dialect ‘ciuppin,’ which obviously does not mean ‘chip in.’ It refers to making a soup from fish.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She notes that while Italians had been making ciuppin for quite some time, it was the San Francisco fishermen’s addition of spicy chili peppers that makes cioppino uniquely Californian.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11698112\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-11698112\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/San_Francisco_Call_Newspaper_ad_1911-800x1240.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"1240\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/San_Francisco_Call_Newspaper_ad_1911-800x1240.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/San_Francisco_Call_Newspaper_ad_1911-160x248.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/San_Francisco_Call_Newspaper_ad_1911-1020x1581.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/San_Francisco_Call_Newspaper_ad_1911-774x1200.jpg 774w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/San_Francisco_Call_Newspaper_ad_1911-960x1488.jpg 960w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/San_Francisco_Call_Newspaper_ad_1911-240x372.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/San_Francisco_Call_Newspaper_ad_1911-375x581.jpg 375w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/San_Francisco_Call_Newspaper_ad_1911-520x806.jpg 520w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/San_Francisco_Call_Newspaper_ad_1911.jpg 1041w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A newspaper ad for the San Francisco Call, circa 1911. \u003ccite>(Wikimedia: The Cooper Collection of California History)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>While reporting this story, I talked to several other foodies and restaurateurs, and people argue for both stories. The “chip in” theory may be fake, but it’s lasted as long as the dish itself.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What’s not up for debate is that Italian fishermen in San Francisco definitely invented cioppino. While doing research for her book, Peters found an article from 1901 by a journalist with the San Francisco Call who went out on a fishing boat with a bunch of fishermen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The article reads:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>If you go out on a fishing boat, if you have the good fortune not to be sick, you should insist on having a dish of chespini… This is how you make it: Put into kettle half glass of sweet oil, one clove garlic, two large tomatoes, two chili peppers, one glass of white wine, prepared fresh fish cut into small squares. Drop into the sauce and cook three minutes. Serve hot. It really tastes much better than it sounds.”\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11698114\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 391px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-11698114\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32777_Screen-Shot-2018-09-12-at-1.55.28-PM-qut-1.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"391\" height=\"619\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32777_Screen-Shot-2018-09-12-at-1.55.28-PM-qut-1.jpg 391w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32777_Screen-Shot-2018-09-12-at-1.55.28-PM-qut-1-160x253.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32777_Screen-Shot-2018-09-12-at-1.55.28-PM-qut-1-240x380.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32777_Screen-Shot-2018-09-12-at-1.55.28-PM-qut-1-375x594.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 391px) 100vw, 391px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Refugees’ Cookbook was a fundraising effort after the 1906 earthquake. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Erica Peters)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Peters calls this article “the moment of invention” because of the last line.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I love that line because it means she thinks the readers of the San Francisco Call won’t know what she’s talking about; this is a new dish to them. Of course the fisherman had been doing it for months or years, but this is the moment when Anglo-Americans, people who were not Italian fishermen, got to hear what cioppino is,” she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And it wasn’t that much longer until Americans could make the dish themselves. After the 1906 earthquake, there was a fundraising effort for San Franciscans displaced by the disaster.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of the things they did to raise money was to put out a cookbook called “The Refugees’ Cookbook” … and one of the recipes included was cioppino.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“And I think that is the first time that San Franciscans could buy a cookbook that had cioppino in it as an official recipe that they should be making at home,” says Peters.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11698115\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 788px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-11698115\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32778_Screen-Shot-2018-09-12-at-1.55.06-PM-qut-1.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"788\" height=\"617\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32778_Screen-Shot-2018-09-12-at-1.55.06-PM-qut-1.jpg 788w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32778_Screen-Shot-2018-09-12-at-1.55.06-PM-qut-1-160x125.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32778_Screen-Shot-2018-09-12-at-1.55.06-PM-qut-1-240x188.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32778_Screen-Shot-2018-09-12-at-1.55.06-PM-qut-1-375x294.jpg 375w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32778_Screen-Shot-2018-09-12-at-1.55.06-PM-qut-1-520x407.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 788px) 100vw, 788px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The first written recipe for cioppino (misspelled as “chippine”) appeared in the Refugees’ Cookbook. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Erica Peters)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Today you can get cioppino at Italian restaurants across the United States. But it’s extra special to try it at Fisherman’s Wharf, where you can still hear the boats clanging, smell the salty ocean air, and taste a little bit of history.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11698117\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-11698117\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32398_IMG_3868-qut-800x758.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"758\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32398_IMG_3868-qut-800x758.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32398_IMG_3868-qut-160x152.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32398_IMG_3868-qut-1020x966.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32398_IMG_3868-qut-1200x1137.jpg 1200w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32398_IMG_3868-qut.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32398_IMG_3868-qut-1180x1118.jpg 1180w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32398_IMG_3868-qut-960x910.jpg 960w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32398_IMG_3868-qut-240x227.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32398_IMG_3868-qut-375x355.jpg 375w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32398_IMG_3868-qut-520x493.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The reporter enjoying a bowl of cioppino on Fisherman’s Wharf. \u003ccite>(Mia Harriman)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "There's no question Italian immigrant fishermen invented the hearty, tomato-based seafood stew in San Francisco's wharf. How it got its name? That's up for debate.",
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"title": "Golden State Plate: The Fishy Origins of Cioppino | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/the-california-report-magazine/id1314750545?mt=2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Listen to this and more in-depth storytelling by subscribing to The California Report Magazine podcast.\u003c/a>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I grew up eating my Italian grandmother Mimi’s homemade cioppino. She served the delicious seafood stew (with a huge loaf of garlic bread) whenever a group of us gathered at her house for dinner. All it took was one pot to stuff us to the brim.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But even though I have lived in the Bay Area now for over a decade, I had no idea that cioppino was invented on \u003ca href=\"http://www.fishermanswharf.org/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">San Francisco’s Fisherman’s Wharf.\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11698109\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-11698109\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32776_FishermansWharf2009-qut-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32776_FishermansWharf2009-qut-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32776_FishermansWharf2009-qut-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32776_FishermansWharf2009-qut-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32776_FishermansWharf2009-qut-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32776_FishermansWharf2009-qut.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32776_FishermansWharf2009-qut-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32776_FishermansWharf2009-qut-960x720.jpg 960w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32776_FishermansWharf2009-qut-240x180.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32776_FishermansWharf2009-qut-375x281.jpg 375w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32776_FishermansWharf2009-qut-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">San Francisco’s Fisherman’s Wharf is the birthplace of cioppino. \u003ccite>(Wikimedia: Nicholas A. Chadwick)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>So I started my quest for the stew’s truth at a restaurant aptly named Cioppino’s, located right on Fisherman’s Wharf. There I met Mia Harriman, Cioppino’s general manager.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11698107\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-11698107 size-medium\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32403_IMG_3875-qut-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32403_IMG_3875-qut-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32403_IMG_3875-qut-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32403_IMG_3875-qut-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32403_IMG_3875-qut-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32403_IMG_3875-qut.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32403_IMG_3875-qut-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32403_IMG_3875-qut-960x720.jpg 960w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32403_IMG_3875-qut-240x180.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32403_IMG_3875-qut-375x281.jpg 375w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32403_IMG_3875-qut-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mia Harriman is the general manager at Cioppino’s, an Italian restaurant on Fisherman’s Wharf in San Francisco. \u003ccite>(Bianca Taylor/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>She tells me cioppino is one of those dishes that has no \u003cem>exact \u003c/em>recipe — something that I actually did know from watching Mimi in the kitchen. As long as you start with a tomato-based broth, you can throw in any kind of seafood you like: snapper, crab legs, mussels, crabs, shrimp, calamari … you name it, you can add it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Considering San Francisco is surrounded by fishable waters, it makes sense that the city was the birthplace of this iconic seafood stew.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As we look out her office window onto the bay, Harriman explains that the origin of cioppino — and its name — derive from the Italian fishermen in the early 1900s, when Fisherman’s Wharf was still called \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Meiggs_Wharf\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Meiggs’ Wharf\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11698118\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-11698118\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32405_IMG_3877-qut-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32405_IMG_3877-qut-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32405_IMG_3877-qut-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32405_IMG_3877-qut-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32405_IMG_3877-qut-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32405_IMG_3877-qut.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32405_IMG_3877-qut-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32405_IMG_3877-qut-960x720.jpg 960w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32405_IMG_3877-qut-240x180.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32405_IMG_3877-qut-375x281.jpg 375w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32405_IMG_3877-qut-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The view of the bay and Hyde Street Pier from Mia Harriman’s office window. \u003ccite>(Bianca Taylor/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Picture San Francisco more than 100 years ago: Meiggs’ Wharf jutted into the water near Powell Street and extended nearly 2,000 feet offshore. It was destroyed in the 1906 earthquake, but until then, it was where Italian immigrants — mainly from \u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/maps/x9r24RFZCbH2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Genoa\u003c/a> — made their livelihoods as fishermen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11698108\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 799px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-11698108\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32775_800px-Photograph_of_Fishermans_Wharf_in_San_Francisco_California_ca._1891_-_ca._1891_-_NARA_-_513106-qut-1.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"799\" height=\"469\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32775_800px-Photograph_of_Fishermans_Wharf_in_San_Francisco_California_ca._1891_-_ca._1891_-_NARA_-_513106-qut-1.jpg 799w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32775_800px-Photograph_of_Fishermans_Wharf_in_San_Francisco_California_ca._1891_-_ca._1891_-_NARA_-_513106-qut-1-160x94.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32775_800px-Photograph_of_Fishermans_Wharf_in_San_Francisco_California_ca._1891_-_ca._1891_-_NARA_-_513106-qut-1-240x141.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32775_800px-Photograph_of_Fishermans_Wharf_in_San_Francisco_California_ca._1891_-_ca._1891_-_NARA_-_513106-qut-1-375x220.jpg 375w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32775_800px-Photograph_of_Fishermans_Wharf_in_San_Francisco_California_ca._1891_-_ca._1891_-_NARA_-_513106-qut-1-520x305.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 799px) 100vw, 799px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A photograph of San Francisco’s wharf, circa 1891. \u003ccite>(Wikimedia Commons: U.S. National Archives and Records Administration)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Harriman says it was \u003ci>these \u003c/i>fishermen who invented what we know now as cioppino sometime between 1850 and 1880.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11698110\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-11698110\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32779_Photograph_of_Italian_Fishermen_on_a_Wharf_in_San_Francisco_California_ca._1891_-_ca._1891_-_NARA_-_513107-qut-800x466.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"466\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32779_Photograph_of_Italian_Fishermen_on_a_Wharf_in_San_Francisco_California_ca._1891_-_ca._1891_-_NARA_-_513107-qut-800x466.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32779_Photograph_of_Italian_Fishermen_on_a_Wharf_in_San_Francisco_California_ca._1891_-_ca._1891_-_NARA_-_513107-qut-160x93.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32779_Photograph_of_Italian_Fishermen_on_a_Wharf_in_San_Francisco_California_ca._1891_-_ca._1891_-_NARA_-_513107-qut-1020x594.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32779_Photograph_of_Italian_Fishermen_on_a_Wharf_in_San_Francisco_California_ca._1891_-_ca._1891_-_NARA_-_513107-qut-1200x699.jpg 1200w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32779_Photograph_of_Italian_Fishermen_on_a_Wharf_in_San_Francisco_California_ca._1891_-_ca._1891_-_NARA_-_513107-qut.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32779_Photograph_of_Italian_Fishermen_on_a_Wharf_in_San_Francisco_California_ca._1891_-_ca._1891_-_NARA_-_513107-qut-1180x688.jpg 1180w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32779_Photograph_of_Italian_Fishermen_on_a_Wharf_in_San_Francisco_California_ca._1891_-_ca._1891_-_NARA_-_513107-qut-960x560.jpg 960w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32779_Photograph_of_Italian_Fishermen_on_a_Wharf_in_San_Francisco_California_ca._1891_-_ca._1891_-_NARA_-_513107-qut-240x140.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32779_Photograph_of_Italian_Fishermen_on_a_Wharf_in_San_Francisco_California_ca._1891_-_ca._1891_-_NARA_-_513107-qut-375x219.jpg 375w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32779_Photograph_of_Italian_Fishermen_on_a_Wharf_in_San_Francisco_California_ca._1891_-_ca._1891_-_NARA_-_513107-qut-520x303.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Photograph of Italian fishermen on a wharf in San Francisco, California, circa 1891. \u003ccite>(Wikimedia: U.S. National Archives and Records Administration)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“One fisherman would toss a nice fat fish into the bucket, and another would drop in a succulent Dungeness crab, and others some herbs and vegetables,” Harriman says of how the soup first started.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And as for its name?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“The cry that prompted each contribution was ‘Chip In! Chip In!’ But coming from an Italian throat, this American slang had to end in a vowel, so ‘cioppino’ was born.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cute, right? I was all in on this “cioppino, chip in” story … until I spoke to Erica Peters, director of the \u003ca href=\"https://www.chonc.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Culinary Historians of Northern California\u003c/a> and author of the book “\u003ca href=\"https://rowman.com/ISBN/9780759121515/San-Francisco-A-Food-Biography\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">San Francisco: A Food Biography\u003c/a>“.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I meet with Peters at her home, one of the first things she tells me is: “There’s a lot of fake lore in food history.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She admits “cioppino, chip in” is a nice story, but adds, “Linguistically, it makes much more sense to think of it as coming from the Northern Italian dialect ‘ciuppin,’ which obviously does not mean ‘chip in.’ It refers to making a soup from fish.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She notes that while Italians had been making ciuppin for quite some time, it was the San Francisco fishermen’s addition of spicy chili peppers that makes cioppino uniquely Californian.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11698112\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-11698112\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/San_Francisco_Call_Newspaper_ad_1911-800x1240.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"1240\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/San_Francisco_Call_Newspaper_ad_1911-800x1240.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/San_Francisco_Call_Newspaper_ad_1911-160x248.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/San_Francisco_Call_Newspaper_ad_1911-1020x1581.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/San_Francisco_Call_Newspaper_ad_1911-774x1200.jpg 774w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/San_Francisco_Call_Newspaper_ad_1911-960x1488.jpg 960w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/San_Francisco_Call_Newspaper_ad_1911-240x372.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/San_Francisco_Call_Newspaper_ad_1911-375x581.jpg 375w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/San_Francisco_Call_Newspaper_ad_1911-520x806.jpg 520w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/San_Francisco_Call_Newspaper_ad_1911.jpg 1041w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A newspaper ad for the San Francisco Call, circa 1911. \u003ccite>(Wikimedia: The Cooper Collection of California History)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>While reporting this story, I talked to several other foodies and restaurateurs, and people argue for both stories. The “chip in” theory may be fake, but it’s lasted as long as the dish itself.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What’s not up for debate is that Italian fishermen in San Francisco definitely invented cioppino. While doing research for her book, Peters found an article from 1901 by a journalist with the San Francisco Call who went out on a fishing boat with a bunch of fishermen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The article reads:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>If you go out on a fishing boat, if you have the good fortune not to be sick, you should insist on having a dish of chespini… This is how you make it: Put into kettle half glass of sweet oil, one clove garlic, two large tomatoes, two chili peppers, one glass of white wine, prepared fresh fish cut into small squares. Drop into the sauce and cook three minutes. Serve hot. It really tastes much better than it sounds.”\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11698114\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 391px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-11698114\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32777_Screen-Shot-2018-09-12-at-1.55.28-PM-qut-1.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"391\" height=\"619\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32777_Screen-Shot-2018-09-12-at-1.55.28-PM-qut-1.jpg 391w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32777_Screen-Shot-2018-09-12-at-1.55.28-PM-qut-1-160x253.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32777_Screen-Shot-2018-09-12-at-1.55.28-PM-qut-1-240x380.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32777_Screen-Shot-2018-09-12-at-1.55.28-PM-qut-1-375x594.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 391px) 100vw, 391px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Refugees’ Cookbook was a fundraising effort after the 1906 earthquake. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Erica Peters)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Peters calls this article “the moment of invention” because of the last line.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I love that line because it means she thinks the readers of the San Francisco Call won’t know what she’s talking about; this is a new dish to them. Of course the fisherman had been doing it for months or years, but this is the moment when Anglo-Americans, people who were not Italian fishermen, got to hear what cioppino is,” she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And it wasn’t that much longer until Americans could make the dish themselves. After the 1906 earthquake, there was a fundraising effort for San Franciscans displaced by the disaster.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of the things they did to raise money was to put out a cookbook called “The Refugees’ Cookbook” … and one of the recipes included was cioppino.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“And I think that is the first time that San Franciscans could buy a cookbook that had cioppino in it as an official recipe that they should be making at home,” says Peters.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11698115\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 788px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-11698115\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32778_Screen-Shot-2018-09-12-at-1.55.06-PM-qut-1.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"788\" height=\"617\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32778_Screen-Shot-2018-09-12-at-1.55.06-PM-qut-1.jpg 788w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32778_Screen-Shot-2018-09-12-at-1.55.06-PM-qut-1-160x125.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32778_Screen-Shot-2018-09-12-at-1.55.06-PM-qut-1-240x188.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32778_Screen-Shot-2018-09-12-at-1.55.06-PM-qut-1-375x294.jpg 375w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32778_Screen-Shot-2018-09-12-at-1.55.06-PM-qut-1-520x407.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 788px) 100vw, 788px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The first written recipe for cioppino (misspelled as “chippine”) appeared in the Refugees’ Cookbook. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Erica Peters)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Today you can get cioppino at Italian restaurants across the United States. But it’s extra special to try it at Fisherman’s Wharf, where you can still hear the boats clanging, smell the salty ocean air, and taste a little bit of history.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11698117\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-11698117\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32398_IMG_3868-qut-800x758.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"758\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32398_IMG_3868-qut-800x758.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32398_IMG_3868-qut-160x152.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32398_IMG_3868-qut-1020x966.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32398_IMG_3868-qut-1200x1137.jpg 1200w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32398_IMG_3868-qut.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32398_IMG_3868-qut-1180x1118.jpg 1180w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32398_IMG_3868-qut-960x910.jpg 960w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32398_IMG_3868-qut-240x227.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32398_IMG_3868-qut-375x355.jpg 375w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/10/RS32398_IMG_3868-qut-520x493.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The reporter enjoying a bowl of cioppino on Fisherman’s Wharf. \u003ccite>(Mia Harriman)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "Golden State Plate: Where in L.A. Was the French Dip Born? Probably at Philippe's",
"headTitle": "Golden State Plate: Where in L.A. Was the French Dip Born? Probably at Philippe’s | KQED",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cem>California is the birthplace of many iconic dishes and drinks, from cioppino to mai tais to the fortune cookie. So \u003ca href=\"http://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/the-california-report-magazine/id1314750545?mt=2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">The California Report Magazine\u003c/a> decided to look into the origin stories of some of those classics with a new series: \u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/series/golden-state-plate\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Golden State Plate\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[dropcap]L[/dropcap]os Angeles is a city of constant change, but there are a few sacred, iconic things in this town that have remained the same for decades. And one, in particular, that you can eat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“You can get the same dish that your grandfather and your great-grandfather and your ancestors had,” says \u003ca href=\"https://www.lamag.com/author/chris-nichols/\">Chris Nichols\u003c/a>. He’s been writing about L.A. culture for over 20 years. “At Philippe’s, you can get that sandwich and it’s just beautiful and simple and authentic and real and great!”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.philippes.com/\">Philippe’s\u003c/a> is just down from Union Station on the southern edge of Chinatown. It’s a blue-collar area bordered by train tracks, the mighty Terminal Annex post office building and small shops in humble brick-and-mortar structures that date back to the 1920s.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11693777\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-11693777\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32733_ANDREW-BINDER-qut-1-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"Andrew Binder, fourth generation managing partner of Philippe's restaurant in Los Angeles, stirs 50 gallons of simmering meat that will soon become French dip sandwiches.\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32733_ANDREW-BINDER-qut-1-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32733_ANDREW-BINDER-qut-1-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32733_ANDREW-BINDER-qut-1-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32733_ANDREW-BINDER-qut-1-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32733_ANDREW-BINDER-qut-1.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32733_ANDREW-BINDER-qut-1-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32733_ANDREW-BINDER-qut-1-960x720.jpg 960w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32733_ANDREW-BINDER-qut-1-240x180.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32733_ANDREW-BINDER-qut-1-375x281.jpg 375w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32733_ANDREW-BINDER-qut-1-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Andrew Binder, fourth generation managing partner of Philippe’s restaurant in Los Angeles, stirs 50 gallons of simmering meat that will soon become French dip sandwiches. \u003ccite>(Peter Gilstrap/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“A lot of the same people who are buying that sandwich today are the types of people who would have bought it a century ago,” says Nichols.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“You get city employees and workers and you see garbage men and you see people in suits. People from every walk of life are coming in and out of that place enjoying the history and authenticity and the realness of it.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Stepping inside this cavernous, former machine shop feels like an older Los Angeles. There’s a bank of wooden phone booths, glowing neon clocks on the walls, sawdust covering the floors and long communal tables where customers perch on stools, often eating next to strangers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There’s no music in the place, just the easy ebb and flow of conversation.\u003c/p>\n\u003caside class=\"pullquote alignright\">‘A lot of the same people who are buying that sandwich today are the types of people who would have bought it a century ago.’\u003ccite>Chris Nichols, Los Angeles Magazine\u003c/cite>\u003c/aside>\n\u003cp>There are no waiters either. You line up at the deli counter where a row of women in classic waitress uniforms, known as carvers, wait to take and make your order.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And if you walk in and get a French dip today, it’ll be one of the 19,000 sandwiches served up this week. They’ve been doing this for a while.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We were open for 10 years until the French dip was actually created, and it was an accident,” says Andrew Binder. He’s a fourth generation managing partner who literally grew up in the restaurant. The carvers were his babysitters. In 1927, his great-grandfather bought the place from Hypolite Philippe Mathieu, who opened it in 1908.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Philippe was carving a sandwich and the French roll fell into the pan drippings of some meats that were being roasted,” continues Binder. “The customer was in a hurry. We used to think it was a policeman, but we were actually told by a relative of Philippe that it was a fireman. That customer came back the next day with friends requesting the sandwich being dipped, so that really is the birth of the French dip.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11693776\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-11693776\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32736_gloria-1-qut-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"Gloria Camacho has been making French dip sandwiches at Philippe's for 25 years. That's a lot of sandwiches.\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32736_gloria-1-qut-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32736_gloria-1-qut-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32736_gloria-1-qut-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32736_gloria-1-qut-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32736_gloria-1-qut.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32736_gloria-1-qut-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32736_gloria-1-qut-960x720.jpg 960w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32736_gloria-1-qut-240x180.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32736_gloria-1-qut-375x281.jpg 375w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32736_gloria-1-qut-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Gloria Camacho has been making French dip sandwiches at Philippe’s for 25 years. That’s a lot of sandwiches. \u003ccite>(Peter Gilstrap/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Gloria Camacho has been a handmaiden to the French dip for over 25 years.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I’m a carver,” she says of her front-line duties. “We slice the bread, we slice the lamb, the pickle.” Camacho is part of am all-female staff of carvers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And for customers who aren’t French dip veterans, Camacho reveals the different ways to dip your beef, lamb, pork, ham, turkey or pastrami sandwich.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“They ask us, what does it mean, dip? It just means how much moisture you want on your roll,” she says. “You can get dry, single, double, wet, meat on the side, the roll on the side, cut in half, cut in thirds, for here or to go, so there’s a couple of options.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11694443\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-11694443\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/PhilippesParking-800x574.jpg\" alt=\"A vintage photo of the parking lot of Philippe's in Los Angeles.\" width=\"800\" height=\"574\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/PhilippesParking-800x574.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/PhilippesParking-160x115.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/PhilippesParking-1020x732.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/PhilippesParking-1200x861.jpg 1200w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/PhilippesParking.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/PhilippesParking-1180x847.jpg 1180w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/PhilippesParking-960x689.jpg 960w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/PhilippesParking-240x172.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/PhilippesParking-375x269.jpg 375w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/PhilippesParking-520x373.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A vintage photo of the parking lot of Philippe’s in Los Angeles. \u003ccite>(Courtesy Philippe's)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The lines are growing as breakfast transitions into lunch. Eric Woods is in the queue, gazing at the cream pie, cheesecake, potato salad, pickled pigs’ feet and other delights under the deli counter glass as he inches slowly toward his carver.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s a wait he’s used to.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I’ve been coming since I been like 10 years old,” says Woods. “I’m 53 now. I just like the atmosphere. Family atmosphere. With no headache.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11693774\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 291px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\" wp-image-11693774\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32735_eric-woods-1-qut-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"French dip fan Eric Woods and his wife Sonja. He's been coming to Philippe's since he was a toddler.\" width=\"291\" height=\"218\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32735_eric-woods-1-qut-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32735_eric-woods-1-qut-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32735_eric-woods-1-qut-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32735_eric-woods-1-qut-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32735_eric-woods-1-qut.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32735_eric-woods-1-qut-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32735_eric-woods-1-qut-960x720.jpg 960w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32735_eric-woods-1-qut-240x180.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32735_eric-woods-1-qut-375x281.jpg 375w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32735_eric-woods-1-qut-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 291px) 100vw, 291px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">French dip fan Eric Woods and his wife Sonja. He’s been coming to Philippe’s since he was a toddler. \u003ccite>(Peter Gilstrap/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The tradition of Philippe’s French dip is deep and vast, but they’re not the only place in town claiming the sacred birthright.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://213hospitality.com/coles/\">Cole’s\u003c/a>, also open since 1908, maintains the sandwich had its first au jus baptism in their kitchen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I have my own theory as to why Philippe’s might be the originator as opposed to Cole’s,” offer Chris Nichols. “It’s simply that Hypolite Philippe Mathieu was born in France, and Harry Cole was a German, so maybe that’s why it’s a French dip because it came from a Frenchman.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s not exactly a Beatles vs. Stones rivalry, and fans of both sandwiches can always agree on at least one thing: the sturdy, humble French dip is a proud creation of the City of Angels.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cem>California is the birthplace of many iconic dishes and drinks, from cioppino to mai tais to the fortune cookie. So \u003ca href=\"http://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/the-california-report-magazine/id1314750545?mt=2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">The California Report Magazine\u003c/a> decided to look into the origin stories of some of those classics with a new series: \u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/series/golden-state-plate\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Golden State Plate\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class=\"utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__dropcapShortcode__dropcap\">L\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>os Angeles is a city of constant change, but there are a few sacred, iconic things in this town that have remained the same for decades. And one, in particular, that you can eat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“You can get the same dish that your grandfather and your great-grandfather and your ancestors had,” says \u003ca href=\"https://www.lamag.com/author/chris-nichols/\">Chris Nichols\u003c/a>. He’s been writing about L.A. culture for over 20 years. “At Philippe’s, you can get that sandwich and it’s just beautiful and simple and authentic and real and great!”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.philippes.com/\">Philippe’s\u003c/a> is just down from Union Station on the southern edge of Chinatown. It’s a blue-collar area bordered by train tracks, the mighty Terminal Annex post office building and small shops in humble brick-and-mortar structures that date back to the 1920s.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11693777\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-11693777\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32733_ANDREW-BINDER-qut-1-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"Andrew Binder, fourth generation managing partner of Philippe's restaurant in Los Angeles, stirs 50 gallons of simmering meat that will soon become French dip sandwiches.\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32733_ANDREW-BINDER-qut-1-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32733_ANDREW-BINDER-qut-1-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32733_ANDREW-BINDER-qut-1-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32733_ANDREW-BINDER-qut-1-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32733_ANDREW-BINDER-qut-1.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32733_ANDREW-BINDER-qut-1-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32733_ANDREW-BINDER-qut-1-960x720.jpg 960w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32733_ANDREW-BINDER-qut-1-240x180.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32733_ANDREW-BINDER-qut-1-375x281.jpg 375w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32733_ANDREW-BINDER-qut-1-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Andrew Binder, fourth generation managing partner of Philippe’s restaurant in Los Angeles, stirs 50 gallons of simmering meat that will soon become French dip sandwiches. \u003ccite>(Peter Gilstrap/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“A lot of the same people who are buying that sandwich today are the types of people who would have bought it a century ago,” says Nichols.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“You get city employees and workers and you see garbage men and you see people in suits. People from every walk of life are coming in and out of that place enjoying the history and authenticity and the realness of it.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Stepping inside this cavernous, former machine shop feels like an older Los Angeles. There’s a bank of wooden phone booths, glowing neon clocks on the walls, sawdust covering the floors and long communal tables where customers perch on stools, often eating next to strangers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There’s no music in the place, just the easy ebb and flow of conversation.\u003c/p>\n\u003caside class=\"pullquote alignright\">‘A lot of the same people who are buying that sandwich today are the types of people who would have bought it a century ago.’\u003ccite>Chris Nichols, Los Angeles Magazine\u003c/cite>\u003c/aside>\n\u003cp>There are no waiters either. You line up at the deli counter where a row of women in classic waitress uniforms, known as carvers, wait to take and make your order.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And if you walk in and get a French dip today, it’ll be one of the 19,000 sandwiches served up this week. They’ve been doing this for a while.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We were open for 10 years until the French dip was actually created, and it was an accident,” says Andrew Binder. He’s a fourth generation managing partner who literally grew up in the restaurant. The carvers were his babysitters. In 1927, his great-grandfather bought the place from Hypolite Philippe Mathieu, who opened it in 1908.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Philippe was carving a sandwich and the French roll fell into the pan drippings of some meats that were being roasted,” continues Binder. “The customer was in a hurry. We used to think it was a policeman, but we were actually told by a relative of Philippe that it was a fireman. That customer came back the next day with friends requesting the sandwich being dipped, so that really is the birth of the French dip.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11693776\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-11693776\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32736_gloria-1-qut-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"Gloria Camacho has been making French dip sandwiches at Philippe's for 25 years. That's a lot of sandwiches.\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32736_gloria-1-qut-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32736_gloria-1-qut-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32736_gloria-1-qut-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32736_gloria-1-qut-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32736_gloria-1-qut.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32736_gloria-1-qut-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32736_gloria-1-qut-960x720.jpg 960w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32736_gloria-1-qut-240x180.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32736_gloria-1-qut-375x281.jpg 375w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32736_gloria-1-qut-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Gloria Camacho has been making French dip sandwiches at Philippe’s for 25 years. That’s a lot of sandwiches. \u003ccite>(Peter Gilstrap/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Gloria Camacho has been a handmaiden to the French dip for over 25 years.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I’m a carver,” she says of her front-line duties. “We slice the bread, we slice the lamb, the pickle.” Camacho is part of am all-female staff of carvers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And for customers who aren’t French dip veterans, Camacho reveals the different ways to dip your beef, lamb, pork, ham, turkey or pastrami sandwich.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“They ask us, what does it mean, dip? It just means how much moisture you want on your roll,” she says. “You can get dry, single, double, wet, meat on the side, the roll on the side, cut in half, cut in thirds, for here or to go, so there’s a couple of options.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11694443\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-11694443\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/PhilippesParking-800x574.jpg\" alt=\"A vintage photo of the parking lot of Philippe's in Los Angeles.\" width=\"800\" height=\"574\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/PhilippesParking-800x574.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/PhilippesParking-160x115.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/PhilippesParking-1020x732.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/PhilippesParking-1200x861.jpg 1200w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/PhilippesParking.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/PhilippesParking-1180x847.jpg 1180w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/PhilippesParking-960x689.jpg 960w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/PhilippesParking-240x172.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/PhilippesParking-375x269.jpg 375w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/PhilippesParking-520x373.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A vintage photo of the parking lot of Philippe’s in Los Angeles. \u003ccite>(Courtesy Philippe's)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The lines are growing as breakfast transitions into lunch. Eric Woods is in the queue, gazing at the cream pie, cheesecake, potato salad, pickled pigs’ feet and other delights under the deli counter glass as he inches slowly toward his carver.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s a wait he’s used to.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I’ve been coming since I been like 10 years old,” says Woods. “I’m 53 now. I just like the atmosphere. Family atmosphere. With no headache.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11693774\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 291px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\" wp-image-11693774\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32735_eric-woods-1-qut-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"French dip fan Eric Woods and his wife Sonja. He's been coming to Philippe's since he was a toddler.\" width=\"291\" height=\"218\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32735_eric-woods-1-qut-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32735_eric-woods-1-qut-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32735_eric-woods-1-qut-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32735_eric-woods-1-qut-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32735_eric-woods-1-qut.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32735_eric-woods-1-qut-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32735_eric-woods-1-qut-960x720.jpg 960w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32735_eric-woods-1-qut-240x180.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32735_eric-woods-1-qut-375x281.jpg 375w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32735_eric-woods-1-qut-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 291px) 100vw, 291px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">French dip fan Eric Woods and his wife Sonja. He’s been coming to Philippe’s since he was a toddler. \u003ccite>(Peter Gilstrap/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The tradition of Philippe’s French dip is deep and vast, but they’re not the only place in town claiming the sacred birthright.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://213hospitality.com/coles/\">Cole’s\u003c/a>, also open since 1908, maintains the sandwich had its first au jus baptism in their kitchen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I have my own theory as to why Philippe’s might be the originator as opposed to Cole’s,” offer Chris Nichols. “It’s simply that Hypolite Philippe Mathieu was born in France, and Harry Cole was a German, so maybe that’s why it’s a French dip because it came from a Frenchman.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s not exactly a Beatles vs. Stones rivalry, and fans of both sandwiches can always agree on at least one thing: the sturdy, humble French dip is a proud creation of the City of Angels.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"slug": "golden-state-plate-the-unsavory-history-of-green-goddess-dressing",
"title": "Golden State Plate: The Unsavory History of Green Goddess Dressing",
"publishDate": 1536967820,
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"headTitle": "Golden State Plate: The Unsavory History of Green Goddess Dressing | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cem>California is the birthplace of many iconic dishes and drinks, from cioppino to mai tais to the fortune cookie. So \u003ca href=\"http://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/the-california-report-magazine/id1314750545?mt=2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">The California Report Magazine\u003c/a> decided to look into the origin stories of some of those classics with a new series: \u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/series/golden-state-plate\" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">Golden State Plate\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[dropcap]T[/dropcap]he Palace Hotel in downtown San Francisco is historically notable in a number of ways, including as a place where a \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/105407/death-of-a-president-san-francisco-style\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">sitting president of the United States died\u003c/a>. It’s also the birthplace of a famous California recipe: Green Goddess Dressing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You’ve likely seen the dressing on the shelves at the grocery store, but you may not know the story behind the condiment.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Two people who \u003cem>do\u003c/em> know a lot about Green Goddess Dressing are Renee Roberts, who’s worked with the Palace Hotel for more than 20 years, and Laura Borrman, author of the new book \u003ca href=\"https://www.arcadiapublishing.com/Products/9781625859587\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Iconic San Francisco Dishes, Drinks & Desserts.\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I met Roberts and Borrman at the Palace’s Garden Court Restaurant to try some of the famous dressing at its birthplace.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11691796\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-11691796\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32620_0E324908-3861-4EE3-AABF-2CF8D737D239-qut-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32620_0E324908-3861-4EE3-AABF-2CF8D737D239-qut-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32620_0E324908-3861-4EE3-AABF-2CF8D737D239-qut-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32620_0E324908-3861-4EE3-AABF-2CF8D737D239-qut-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32620_0E324908-3861-4EE3-AABF-2CF8D737D239-qut-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32620_0E324908-3861-4EE3-AABF-2CF8D737D239-qut.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32620_0E324908-3861-4EE3-AABF-2CF8D737D239-qut-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32620_0E324908-3861-4EE3-AABF-2CF8D737D239-qut-960x720.jpg 960w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32620_0E324908-3861-4EE3-AABF-2CF8D737D239-qut-240x180.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32620_0E324908-3861-4EE3-AABF-2CF8D737D239-qut-375x281.jpg 375w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32620_0E324908-3861-4EE3-AABF-2CF8D737D239-qut-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Garden Court at the Palace Hotel. \u003ccite>(Sasha Khokha/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“Sitting here makes you feel sort of automatically connected to history,” says Borrman. “I think about all of the other people who have sat at these tables.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Roberts agrees: “There’s a lot of history here… A lot of people have been through these doors.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This hotel, back in its day, was a place where lots of well-known and wealthy people stayed, like opera star \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Luisa_Tetrazzini\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Luisa Tetrazzini\u003c/a>. The hotel claims to have invented \u003ca href=\"https://www.allrecipes.com/recipe/37784/easy-turkey-tetrazzini/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">turkey tetrazzini\u003c/a>, named after her.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11691797\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-11691797\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32761_Luisa_Tetrazzini_1910-1915-qut-800x1002.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"1002\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32761_Luisa_Tetrazzini_1910-1915-qut-800x1002.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32761_Luisa_Tetrazzini_1910-1915-qut-160x200.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32761_Luisa_Tetrazzini_1910-1915-qut-1020x1278.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32761_Luisa_Tetrazzini_1910-1915-qut-958x1200.jpg 958w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32761_Luisa_Tetrazzini_1910-1915-qut.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32761_Luisa_Tetrazzini_1910-1915-qut-1180x1478.jpg 1180w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32761_Luisa_Tetrazzini_1910-1915-qut-960x1203.jpg 960w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32761_Luisa_Tetrazzini_1910-1915-qut-240x301.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32761_Luisa_Tetrazzini_1910-1915-qut-375x470.jpg 375w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32761_Luisa_Tetrazzini_1910-1915-qut-520x651.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Luisa Tetrazzini was a famous opera singer who stayed at the Palace Hotel. \u003ccite>(Wikimedia Commons: Bain News Service, publisher Library of Congress)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Likewise, Green Goddess Dressing was inspired by another star guest: George Arliss.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Arliss was the lead actor in the 1920s play, \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Green_Goddess_(play)\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">The Green Goddess\u003c/a>. While he was staying at the Palace Hotel for a performance, Head Chef Philip Roemer created the special dressing to be served on the starter salad — and the rest is history.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“It is a favorite,” Roberts says. “There was a point when someone thought they could change it, and took it off the menu. It lasted for like a day.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We can’t ignore how there’s something really enchanting about the phrase ‘The Green Goddess,'” says Bormann, who loves the dressing so much, she served it at her wedding.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“If you wear a green dress to work, everybody’s calling you the green goddess,” Roberts laughs. “It’s just kind of a thing around here.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So how do you make Green Goddess Dressing?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the kitchen, Executive Banquet Chef Juan Rojas throws all the ingredients in a blender: ice, pasteurized eggs, whole grain mustard, shallots, capers, chives, spinach, fresh tarragon, chopped parsley, tarragon vinaigrette, salt and pepper, some olive oil and lemon juice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The result is a tangy, bright green dressing that is a far cry from the original invented in this kitchen almost 100 years ago.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11691763\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-11691763\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32607_alt_780-800x1067.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"1067\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32607_alt_780-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32607_alt_780-160x213.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32607_alt_780-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32607_alt_780-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32607_alt_780-1920x2560.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32607_alt_780-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32607_alt_780-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32607_alt_780-240x320.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32607_alt_780-375x500.jpg 375w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32607_alt_780-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Executive Banquet Chef at the Palace Hotel, Juan Rojas, with freshly made Green Goddess Dressing. \u003ccite>(Sasha Khokha/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>According to Roberts, the original recipe was heavy on the mayonnaise, and was served on a canned artichoke, considered a luxury in those days.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11691764\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-11691764\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32760_GreenGoddessSalad-qut-800x620.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"620\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32760_GreenGoddessSalad-qut-800x620.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32760_GreenGoddessSalad-qut-160x124.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32760_GreenGoddessSalad-qut-1020x791.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32760_GreenGoddessSalad-qut-1200x930.jpg 1200w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32760_GreenGoddessSalad-qut-1180x915.jpg 1180w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32760_GreenGoddessSalad-qut-960x744.jpg 960w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32760_GreenGoddessSalad-qut-240x186.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32760_GreenGoddessSalad-qut-375x291.jpg 375w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32760_GreenGoddessSalad-qut-520x403.jpg 520w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32760_GreenGoddessSalad-qut.jpg 1433w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Green Goddess Dressing was invented at The Palace Hotel in 1923. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Renee Roberts)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Today, the Palace has lightened the dressing with olive oil. And there are no canned vegetables in sight.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11691772\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-11691772\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32759_Palace-Green-Goddess-Dressing-2-qut-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32759_Palace-Green-Goddess-Dressing-2-qut-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32759_Palace-Green-Goddess-Dressing-2-qut-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32759_Palace-Green-Goddess-Dressing-2-qut-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32759_Palace-Green-Goddess-Dressing-2-qut-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32759_Palace-Green-Goddess-Dressing-2-qut.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32759_Palace-Green-Goddess-Dressing-2-qut-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32759_Palace-Green-Goddess-Dressing-2-qut-960x640.jpg 960w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32759_Palace-Green-Goddess-Dressing-2-qut-240x160.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32759_Palace-Green-Goddess-Dressing-2-qut-375x250.jpg 375w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32759_Palace-Green-Goddess-Dressing-2-qut-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Green Goddess Dressing as its served today at the Palace Hotel’s Garden Court. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Renee Roberts)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>So what about the dressing’s namesake? What exactly was the Green Goddess?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is where things get complicated.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After the play finished, two film versions of The Green Goddess were made. And in them, Arliss — a white British actor — starred as an Indian maharajah.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11691801\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-11691801\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32762_George_Arliss_in_sultan_costume-qut-800x1735.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"1735\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32762_George_Arliss_in_sultan_costume-qut-800x1735.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32762_George_Arliss_in_sultan_costume-qut-160x347.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32762_George_Arliss_in_sultan_costume-qut-1020x2212.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32762_George_Arliss_in_sultan_costume-qut-553x1200.jpg 553w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32762_George_Arliss_in_sultan_costume-qut.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32762_George_Arliss_in_sultan_costume-qut-1180x2559.jpg 1180w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32762_George_Arliss_in_sultan_costume-qut-960x2082.jpg 960w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32762_George_Arliss_in_sultan_costume-qut-240x520.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32762_George_Arliss_in_sultan_costume-qut-375x813.jpg 375w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32762_George_Arliss_in_sultan_costume-qut-520x1127.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">English actor George Arliss (1868-1946) in his “Raja” costume. \u003ccite>(George Grantham Bain Collection (Library of Congress) )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>All of the other actors were white too. They faked horrendous Indian accents. The film portrayed some of them as savages running around in afros, waving swords.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And the Green Goddess? She was a made-up deity in a bad Hollywood version of a Hindu temple.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2hldKQSUpgg\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s honestly kind of a blow to me.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I love this dressing. I grew up thinking of it as hippie salad dressing, seeing it in the health food store, throwing it on my salads with sunflower seeds and carrots.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But my family is Hindu, my dad is from India. And this racist movie from nearly 100 years ago is straight-up worse than Apu on the Simpsons.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sometimes digging into California food history isn’t so savory.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Green Goddess is a California classic because of the things that make it so Californian: the fresh herbs, an obsession with Hollywood celebrity, and simply how good it is.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I’m still trying to work through the fact that something so seemingly innocent as salad dressing can carry baggage when my salad arrives: a big mountain of crab on a bed of shaved zucchini on one side of the plate, some greens on the other and a gravy boat full of electric green dressing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11691773\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-11691773\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32615_93004DA1-C92F-48DF-8742-F5D599410B79-qut-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32615_93004DA1-C92F-48DF-8742-F5D599410B79-qut-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32615_93004DA1-C92F-48DF-8742-F5D599410B79-qut-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32615_93004DA1-C92F-48DF-8742-F5D599410B79-qut-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32615_93004DA1-C92F-48DF-8742-F5D599410B79-qut-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32615_93004DA1-C92F-48DF-8742-F5D599410B79-qut.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32615_93004DA1-C92F-48DF-8742-F5D599410B79-qut-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32615_93004DA1-C92F-48DF-8742-F5D599410B79-qut-960x720.jpg 960w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32615_93004DA1-C92F-48DF-8742-F5D599410B79-qut-240x180.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32615_93004DA1-C92F-48DF-8742-F5D599410B79-qut-375x281.jpg 375w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32615_93004DA1-C92F-48DF-8742-F5D599410B79-qut-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Palace Signature Salad comes with crab and Green Goddess Dressing on the side. \u003ccite>(Sasha Khokha/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>It’s hard to deny: the dressing is really good, despite the problematic origins of its name.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Both Borrman and Roberts describe it is as being “so Californian.” And they’re right: the dressing is clean and bright. It’s herbaceous and tangy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But you don’t need to spend $40 on a salad at the Palace Hotel to try Green Goddess Dressing. You can find it pretty much anywhere at any supermarket — or make it yourself:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>The Palace Green Goddess Dressing:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>2 bunches of Italian flat leaf parsley (finely chopped)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 bunches fresh chervil (finely chopped)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>5 bunches tarragon (finely chopped)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>5 cups fresh spinach\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 bottle chopped capers\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 bottle Worcestershire sauce\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 cup chopped garlic\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 cup shopped shallots\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tbsp. sugar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>6 ea anchovies\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3 cups tarragon vinegar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 cup Dijon mustard\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3 egg yolks\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>6 cups corn oil\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nCombine all ingredients (except oil) in blender or in container using immersion blender. Blend on high until smooth. While blending, slowly drizzle oil into mixture. Keep drizzling until oil is gone, then season with salt and pepper to taste. This recipe is for a one gallon batch of dressing. Can be stored in refrigerator for up to 10 days.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "California's iconic Green Goddess Dressing may be herbal and delicious — but its name has a not-so-savory history.",
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"title": "Golden State Plate: The Unsavory History of Green Goddess Dressing | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cem>California is the birthplace of many iconic dishes and drinks, from cioppino to mai tais to the fortune cookie. So \u003ca href=\"http://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/the-california-report-magazine/id1314750545?mt=2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">The California Report Magazine\u003c/a> decided to look into the origin stories of some of those classics with a new series: \u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/series/golden-state-plate\" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">Golden State Plate\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class=\"utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__dropcapShortcode__dropcap\">T\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>he Palace Hotel in downtown San Francisco is historically notable in a number of ways, including as a place where a \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/105407/death-of-a-president-san-francisco-style\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">sitting president of the United States died\u003c/a>. It’s also the birthplace of a famous California recipe: Green Goddess Dressing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You’ve likely seen the dressing on the shelves at the grocery store, but you may not know the story behind the condiment.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Two people who \u003cem>do\u003c/em> know a lot about Green Goddess Dressing are Renee Roberts, who’s worked with the Palace Hotel for more than 20 years, and Laura Borrman, author of the new book \u003ca href=\"https://www.arcadiapublishing.com/Products/9781625859587\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Iconic San Francisco Dishes, Drinks & Desserts.\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I met Roberts and Borrman at the Palace’s Garden Court Restaurant to try some of the famous dressing at its birthplace.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11691796\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-11691796\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32620_0E324908-3861-4EE3-AABF-2CF8D737D239-qut-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32620_0E324908-3861-4EE3-AABF-2CF8D737D239-qut-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32620_0E324908-3861-4EE3-AABF-2CF8D737D239-qut-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32620_0E324908-3861-4EE3-AABF-2CF8D737D239-qut-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32620_0E324908-3861-4EE3-AABF-2CF8D737D239-qut-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32620_0E324908-3861-4EE3-AABF-2CF8D737D239-qut.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32620_0E324908-3861-4EE3-AABF-2CF8D737D239-qut-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32620_0E324908-3861-4EE3-AABF-2CF8D737D239-qut-960x720.jpg 960w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32620_0E324908-3861-4EE3-AABF-2CF8D737D239-qut-240x180.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32620_0E324908-3861-4EE3-AABF-2CF8D737D239-qut-375x281.jpg 375w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32620_0E324908-3861-4EE3-AABF-2CF8D737D239-qut-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Garden Court at the Palace Hotel. \u003ccite>(Sasha Khokha/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“Sitting here makes you feel sort of automatically connected to history,” says Borrman. “I think about all of the other people who have sat at these tables.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Roberts agrees: “There’s a lot of history here… A lot of people have been through these doors.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This hotel, back in its day, was a place where lots of well-known and wealthy people stayed, like opera star \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Luisa_Tetrazzini\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Luisa Tetrazzini\u003c/a>. The hotel claims to have invented \u003ca href=\"https://www.allrecipes.com/recipe/37784/easy-turkey-tetrazzini/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">turkey tetrazzini\u003c/a>, named after her.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11691797\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-11691797\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32761_Luisa_Tetrazzini_1910-1915-qut-800x1002.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"1002\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32761_Luisa_Tetrazzini_1910-1915-qut-800x1002.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32761_Luisa_Tetrazzini_1910-1915-qut-160x200.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32761_Luisa_Tetrazzini_1910-1915-qut-1020x1278.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32761_Luisa_Tetrazzini_1910-1915-qut-958x1200.jpg 958w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32761_Luisa_Tetrazzini_1910-1915-qut.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32761_Luisa_Tetrazzini_1910-1915-qut-1180x1478.jpg 1180w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32761_Luisa_Tetrazzini_1910-1915-qut-960x1203.jpg 960w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32761_Luisa_Tetrazzini_1910-1915-qut-240x301.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32761_Luisa_Tetrazzini_1910-1915-qut-375x470.jpg 375w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32761_Luisa_Tetrazzini_1910-1915-qut-520x651.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Luisa Tetrazzini was a famous opera singer who stayed at the Palace Hotel. \u003ccite>(Wikimedia Commons: Bain News Service, publisher Library of Congress)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Likewise, Green Goddess Dressing was inspired by another star guest: George Arliss.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Arliss was the lead actor in the 1920s play, \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Green_Goddess_(play)\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">The Green Goddess\u003c/a>. While he was staying at the Palace Hotel for a performance, Head Chef Philip Roemer created the special dressing to be served on the starter salad — and the rest is history.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“It is a favorite,” Roberts says. “There was a point when someone thought they could change it, and took it off the menu. It lasted for like a day.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We can’t ignore how there’s something really enchanting about the phrase ‘The Green Goddess,'” says Bormann, who loves the dressing so much, she served it at her wedding.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“If you wear a green dress to work, everybody’s calling you the green goddess,” Roberts laughs. “It’s just kind of a thing around here.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So how do you make Green Goddess Dressing?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the kitchen, Executive Banquet Chef Juan Rojas throws all the ingredients in a blender: ice, pasteurized eggs, whole grain mustard, shallots, capers, chives, spinach, fresh tarragon, chopped parsley, tarragon vinaigrette, salt and pepper, some olive oil and lemon juice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The result is a tangy, bright green dressing that is a far cry from the original invented in this kitchen almost 100 years ago.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11691763\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-11691763\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32607_alt_780-800x1067.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"1067\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32607_alt_780-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32607_alt_780-160x213.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32607_alt_780-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32607_alt_780-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32607_alt_780-1920x2560.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32607_alt_780-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32607_alt_780-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32607_alt_780-240x320.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32607_alt_780-375x500.jpg 375w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32607_alt_780-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Executive Banquet Chef at the Palace Hotel, Juan Rojas, with freshly made Green Goddess Dressing. \u003ccite>(Sasha Khokha/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>According to Roberts, the original recipe was heavy on the mayonnaise, and was served on a canned artichoke, considered a luxury in those days.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11691764\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-11691764\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32760_GreenGoddessSalad-qut-800x620.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"620\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32760_GreenGoddessSalad-qut-800x620.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32760_GreenGoddessSalad-qut-160x124.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32760_GreenGoddessSalad-qut-1020x791.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32760_GreenGoddessSalad-qut-1200x930.jpg 1200w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32760_GreenGoddessSalad-qut-1180x915.jpg 1180w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32760_GreenGoddessSalad-qut-960x744.jpg 960w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32760_GreenGoddessSalad-qut-240x186.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32760_GreenGoddessSalad-qut-375x291.jpg 375w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32760_GreenGoddessSalad-qut-520x403.jpg 520w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32760_GreenGoddessSalad-qut.jpg 1433w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Green Goddess Dressing was invented at The Palace Hotel in 1923. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Renee Roberts)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Today, the Palace has lightened the dressing with olive oil. And there are no canned vegetables in sight.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11691772\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-11691772\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32759_Palace-Green-Goddess-Dressing-2-qut-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32759_Palace-Green-Goddess-Dressing-2-qut-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32759_Palace-Green-Goddess-Dressing-2-qut-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32759_Palace-Green-Goddess-Dressing-2-qut-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32759_Palace-Green-Goddess-Dressing-2-qut-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32759_Palace-Green-Goddess-Dressing-2-qut.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32759_Palace-Green-Goddess-Dressing-2-qut-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32759_Palace-Green-Goddess-Dressing-2-qut-960x640.jpg 960w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32759_Palace-Green-Goddess-Dressing-2-qut-240x160.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32759_Palace-Green-Goddess-Dressing-2-qut-375x250.jpg 375w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32759_Palace-Green-Goddess-Dressing-2-qut-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Green Goddess Dressing as its served today at the Palace Hotel’s Garden Court. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Renee Roberts)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>So what about the dressing’s namesake? What exactly was the Green Goddess?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is where things get complicated.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After the play finished, two film versions of The Green Goddess were made. And in them, Arliss — a white British actor — starred as an Indian maharajah.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11691801\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-11691801\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32762_George_Arliss_in_sultan_costume-qut-800x1735.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"1735\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32762_George_Arliss_in_sultan_costume-qut-800x1735.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32762_George_Arliss_in_sultan_costume-qut-160x347.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32762_George_Arliss_in_sultan_costume-qut-1020x2212.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32762_George_Arliss_in_sultan_costume-qut-553x1200.jpg 553w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32762_George_Arliss_in_sultan_costume-qut.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32762_George_Arliss_in_sultan_costume-qut-1180x2559.jpg 1180w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32762_George_Arliss_in_sultan_costume-qut-960x2082.jpg 960w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32762_George_Arliss_in_sultan_costume-qut-240x520.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32762_George_Arliss_in_sultan_costume-qut-375x813.jpg 375w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32762_George_Arliss_in_sultan_costume-qut-520x1127.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">English actor George Arliss (1868-1946) in his “Raja” costume. \u003ccite>(George Grantham Bain Collection (Library of Congress) )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>All of the other actors were white too. They faked horrendous Indian accents. The film portrayed some of them as savages running around in afros, waving swords.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And the Green Goddess? She was a made-up deity in a bad Hollywood version of a Hindu temple.\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/2hldKQSUpgg'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/2hldKQSUpgg'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cp>It’s honestly kind of a blow to me.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I love this dressing. I grew up thinking of it as hippie salad dressing, seeing it in the health food store, throwing it on my salads with sunflower seeds and carrots.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But my family is Hindu, my dad is from India. And this racist movie from nearly 100 years ago is straight-up worse than Apu on the Simpsons.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sometimes digging into California food history isn’t so savory.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Green Goddess is a California classic because of the things that make it so Californian: the fresh herbs, an obsession with Hollywood celebrity, and simply how good it is.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I’m still trying to work through the fact that something so seemingly innocent as salad dressing can carry baggage when my salad arrives: a big mountain of crab on a bed of shaved zucchini on one side of the plate, some greens on the other and a gravy boat full of electric green dressing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11691773\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-11691773\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32615_93004DA1-C92F-48DF-8742-F5D599410B79-qut-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32615_93004DA1-C92F-48DF-8742-F5D599410B79-qut-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32615_93004DA1-C92F-48DF-8742-F5D599410B79-qut-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32615_93004DA1-C92F-48DF-8742-F5D599410B79-qut-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32615_93004DA1-C92F-48DF-8742-F5D599410B79-qut-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32615_93004DA1-C92F-48DF-8742-F5D599410B79-qut.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32615_93004DA1-C92F-48DF-8742-F5D599410B79-qut-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32615_93004DA1-C92F-48DF-8742-F5D599410B79-qut-960x720.jpg 960w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32615_93004DA1-C92F-48DF-8742-F5D599410B79-qut-240x180.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32615_93004DA1-C92F-48DF-8742-F5D599410B79-qut-375x281.jpg 375w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/09/RS32615_93004DA1-C92F-48DF-8742-F5D599410B79-qut-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Palace Signature Salad comes with crab and Green Goddess Dressing on the side. \u003ccite>(Sasha Khokha/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>It’s hard to deny: the dressing is really good, despite the problematic origins of its name.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Both Borrman and Roberts describe it is as being “so Californian.” And they’re right: the dressing is clean and bright. It’s herbaceous and tangy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But you don’t need to spend $40 on a salad at the Palace Hotel to try Green Goddess Dressing. You can find it pretty much anywhere at any supermarket — or make it yourself:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>The Palace Green Goddess Dressing:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>2 bunches of Italian flat leaf parsley (finely chopped)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 bunches fresh chervil (finely chopped)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>5 bunches tarragon (finely chopped)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>5 cups fresh spinach\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 bottle chopped capers\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 bottle Worcestershire sauce\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 cup chopped garlic\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 cup shopped shallots\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tbsp. sugar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>6 ea anchovies\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3 cups tarragon vinegar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 cup Dijon mustard\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3 egg yolks\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>6 cups corn oil\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nCombine all ingredients (except oil) in blender or in container using immersion blender. Blend on high until smooth. While blending, slowly drizzle oil into mixture. Keep drizzling until oil is gone, then season with salt and pepper to taste. This recipe is for a one gallon batch of dressing. Can be stored in refrigerator for up to 10 days.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/BBC-World-Service-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
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},
"link": "/radio/program/bbc-world-service",
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"rss": "https://podcasts.files.bbci.co.uk/p02nq0gn.rss"
}
},
"californiareport": {
"id": "californiareport",
"title": "The California Report",
"tagline": "California, day by day",
"info": "KQED’s statewide radio news program providing daily coverage of issues, trends and public policy decisions.",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/The-California-Report-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "/californiareport",
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"source": "kqed",
"order": 8
},
"link": "/californiareport",
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}
},
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"title": "The California Report Magazine",
"tagline": "Your state, your stories",
"info": "Every week, The California Report Magazine takes you on a road trip for the ears: to visit the places and meet the people who make California unique. The in-depth storytelling podcast from the California Report.",
"airtime": "FRI 4:30pm-5pm, 6:30pm-7pm, 11pm-11:30pm",
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"order": 10
},
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM3NjkwNjk1OTAz",
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},
"city-arts": {
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"info": "A one-hour radio program to hear celebrated writers, artists and thinkers address contemporary ideas and values, often discussing the creative process. Please note: tapes or transcripts are not available",
"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/05/cityartsandlecture-300x300.jpg",
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"airtime": "SUN 1pm-2pm, TUE 10pm, WED 1am",
"meta": {
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"source": "City Arts & Lectures"
},
"link": "https://www.cityarts.net",
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"rss": "https://www.cityarts.net/feed/"
}
},
"closealltabs": {
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"order": 1
},
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"title": "Code Switch / Life Kit",
"info": "\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em>, which listeners will hear in the first part of the hour, has fearless and much-needed conversations about race. Hosted by journalists of color, the show tackles the subject of race head-on, exploring how it impacts every part of society — from politics and pop culture to history, sports and more.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em>, which will be in the second part of the hour, guides you through spaces and feelings no one prepares you for — from finances to mental health, from workplace microaggressions to imposter syndrome, from relationships to parenting. The show features experts with real world experience and shares their knowledge. Because everyone needs a little help being human.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/510312/codeswitch\">\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/lifekit\">\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />",
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"meta": {
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"id": "commonwealth-club",
"title": "Commonwealth Club of California Podcast",
"info": "The Commonwealth Club of California is the nation's oldest and largest public affairs forum. As a non-partisan forum, The Club brings to the public airwaves diverse viewpoints on important topics. The Club's weekly radio broadcast - the oldest in the U.S., dating back to 1924 - is carried across the nation on public radio stations and is now podcasting. Our website archive features audio of our recent programs, as well as selected speeches from our long and distinguished history. This podcast feed is usually updated twice a week and is always un-edited.",
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"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Commonwealth-Club-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
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"meta": {
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"source": "Commonwealth Club of California"
},
"link": "/radio/program/commonwealth-club",
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cDovL3d3dy5jb21tb253ZWFsdGhjbHViLm9yZy9hdWRpby9wb2RjYXN0L3dlZWtseS54bWw",
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"id": "forum",
"title": "Forum",
"tagline": "The conversation starts here",
"info": "KQED’s live call-in program discussing local, state, national and international issues, as well as in-depth interviews.",
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"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Forum-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
"imageAlt": "KQED Forum with Mina Kim and Alexis Madrigal",
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"source": "kqed",
"order": 9
},
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM5NTU3MzgxNjMz",
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"freakonomics-radio": {
"id": "freakonomics-radio",
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"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/05/freakonomicsRadio.png",
"officialWebsiteLink": "http://freakonomics.com/",
"airtime": "SUN 1am-2am, SAT 3pm-4pm",
"meta": {
"site": "radio",
"source": "WNYC"
},
"link": "/radio/program/freakonomics-radio",
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/freakonomics-radio/id354668519",
"tuneIn": "https://tunein.com/podcasts/WNYC-Podcasts/Freakonomics-Radio-p272293/",
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},
"fresh-air": {
"id": "fresh-air",
"title": "Fresh Air",
"info": "Hosted by Terry Gross, \u003cem>Fresh Air from WHYY\u003c/em> is the Peabody Award-winning weekday magazine of contemporary arts and issues. One of public radio's most popular programs, Fresh Air features intimate conversations with today's biggest luminaries.",
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=214089682&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory",
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"here-and-now": {
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"info": "A live production of NPR and WBUR Boston, in collaboration with stations across the country, Here & Now reflects the fluid world of news as it's happening in the middle of the day, with timely, in-depth news, interviews and conversation. Hosted by Robin Young, Jeremy Hobson and Tonya Mosley.",
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},
"hidden-brain": {
"id": "hidden-brain",
"title": "Hidden Brain",
"info": "Shankar Vedantam uses science and storytelling to reveal the unconscious patterns that drive human behavior, shape our choices and direct our relationships.",
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"airtime": "SUN 7pm-8pm",
"meta": {
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"source": "NPR"
},
"link": "/radio/program/hidden-brain",
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},
"how-i-built-this": {
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"title": "How I Built This with Guy Raz",
"info": "Guy Raz dives into the stories behind some of the world's best known companies. How I Built This weaves a narrative journey about innovators, entrepreneurs and idealists—and the movements they built.",
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"airtime": "SUN 7:30pm-8pm",
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},
"link": "/radio/program/how-i-built-this",
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/how-i-built-this-with-guy-raz/id1150510297?mt=2",
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},
"hyphenacion": {
"id": "hyphenacion",
"title": "Hyphenación",
"tagline": "Where conversation and cultura meet",
"info": "What kind of no sabo word is Hyphenación? For us, it’s about living within a hyphenation. Like being a third-gen Mexican-American from the Texas border now living that Bay Area Chicano life. Like Xorje! Each week we bring together a couple of hyphenated Latinos to talk all about personal life choices: family, careers, relationships, belonging … everything is on the table. ",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2025/03/Hyphenacion_FinalAssets_PodcastTile.png",
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"order": 15
},
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},
"jerrybrown": {
"id": "jerrybrown",
"title": "The Political Mind of Jerry Brown",
"tagline": "Lessons from a lifetime in politics",
"info": "The Political Mind of Jerry Brown brings listeners the wisdom of the former Governor, Mayor, and presidential candidate. Scott Shafer interviewed Brown for more than 40 hours, covering the former governor's life and half-century in the political game – and Brown has some lessons he'd like to share. ",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/The-Political-Mind-of-Jerry-Brown-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "/podcasts/jerrybrown",
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"order": 18
},
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}
},
"latino-usa": {
"id": "latino-usa",
"title": "Latino USA",
"airtime": "MON 1am-2am, SUN 6pm-7pm",
"info": "Latino USA, the radio journal of news and culture, is the only national, English-language radio program produced from a Latino perspective.",
"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/latinoUsa.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "http://latinousa.org/",
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},
"link": "/radio/program/latino-usa",
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=79681317&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory",
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"rss": "https://feeds.npr.org/510016/podcast.xml"
}
},
"marketplace": {
"id": "marketplace",
"title": "Marketplace",
"info": "Our flagship program, helmed by Kai Ryssdal, examines what the day in money delivered, through stories, conversations, newsworthy numbers and more. Updated Monday through Friday at about 3:30 p.m. PT.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 4pm-4:30pm, MON-WED 6:30pm-7pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Marketplace-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.marketplace.org/",
"meta": {
"site": "news",
"source": "American Public Media"
},
"link": "/radio/program/marketplace",
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"rss": "https://feeds.publicradio.org/public_feeds/marketplace-pm/rss/rss"
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},
"masters-of-scale": {
"id": "masters-of-scale",
"title": "Masters of Scale",
"info": "Masters of Scale is an original podcast in which LinkedIn co-founder and Greylock Partner Reid Hoffman sets out to describe and prove theories that explain how great entrepreneurs take their companies from zero to a gazillion in ingenious fashion.",
"airtime": "Every other Wednesday June 12 through October 16 at 8pm (repeats Thursdays at 2am)",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "https://mastersofscale.com/",
"meta": {
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"source": "WaitWhat"
},
"link": "/radio/program/masters-of-scale",
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"rss": "https://rss.art19.com/masters-of-scale"
}
},
"mindshift": {
"id": "mindshift",
"title": "MindShift",
"tagline": "A podcast about the future of learning and how we raise our kids",
"info": "The MindShift podcast explores the innovations in education that are shaping how kids learn. Hosts Ki Sung and Katrina Schwartz introduce listeners to educators, researchers, parents and students who are developing effective ways to improve how kids learn. We cover topics like how fed-up administrators are developing surprising tactics to deal with classroom disruptions; how listening to podcasts are helping kids develop reading skills; the consequences of overparenting; and why interdisciplinary learning can engage students on all ends of the traditional achievement spectrum. This podcast is part of the MindShift education site, a division of KQED News. KQED is an NPR/PBS member station based in San Francisco. You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Mindshift-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
"imageAlt": "KQED MindShift: How We Will Learn",
"officialWebsiteLink": "/mindshift/",
"meta": {
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"source": "kqed",
"order": 12
},
"link": "/podcasts/mindshift",
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM1NzY0NjAwNDI5",
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}
},
"morning-edition": {
"id": "morning-edition",
"title": "Morning Edition",
"info": "\u003cem>Morning Edition\u003c/em> takes listeners around the country and the world with multi-faceted stories and commentaries every weekday. Hosts Steve Inskeep, David Greene and Rachel Martin bring you the latest breaking news and features to prepare you for the day.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 3am-9am",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Morning-Edition-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.npr.org/programs/morning-edition/",
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"link": "/radio/program/morning-edition"
},
"onourwatch": {
"id": "onourwatch",
"title": "On Our Watch",
"tagline": "Deeply-reported investigative journalism",
"info": "For decades, the process for how police police themselves has been inconsistent – if not opaque. In some states, like California, these proceedings were completely hidden. After a new police transparency law unsealed scores of internal affairs files, our reporters set out to examine these cases and the shadow world of police discipline. On Our Watch brings listeners into the rooms where officers are questioned and witnesses are interrogated to find out who this system is really protecting. Is it the officers, or the public they've sworn to serve?",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/On-Our-Watch-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
"imageAlt": "On Our Watch from NPR and KQED",
"officialWebsiteLink": "/podcasts/onourwatch",
"meta": {
"site": "news",
"source": "kqed",
"order": 11
},
"link": "/podcasts/onourwatch",
"subscribe": {
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5ucHIub3JnLzUxMDM2MC9wb2RjYXN0LnhtbD9zYz1nb29nbGVwb2RjYXN0cw",
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