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"disqusTitle": "In the Queer Kitchen: A Conversation with John Birdsall, Preeti Mistry, and Nik Sharma",
"title": "In the Queer Kitchen: A Conversation with John Birdsall, Preeti Mistry, and Nik Sharma",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>What is a queer kitchen? Is there a recognizable queer style or sensibility that can be expressed through food? Can non-gay chefs queer their food? As the rainbow-stickered crowds in booty shorts and body glitter surged through Dolores Park and Civic Center on a sunny Saturday afternoon, a rather more sedate audience of thirty gathered upstairs at Williams Sonoma's flagship store in Union Square to listen to a discussion of these questions and more. The conversation was the first San Francisco event organized by the New York-based gay men's food magazine \u003ca href=\"http://www.jarrymag.com\" target=\"_blank\">Jarry\u003c/a>, a twice-yearly print publication that launched (thanks in part to a Kickstarter campaign) in the fall of 2015. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_110367\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent4-new.jpg\" alt=\"Jarry issue 2 and tote bags.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" class=\"size-full wp-image-110367\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent4-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent4-new-400x400.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent4-new-800x800.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent4-new-768x768.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent4-new-1440x1440.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent4-new-1180x1180.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent4-new-960x960.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent4-new-150x150.jpg 150w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent4-new-32x32.jpg 32w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent4-new-50x50.jpg 50w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent4-new-64x64.jpg 64w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent4-new-96x96.jpg 96w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent4-new-128x128.jpg 128w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jarry issue 2 and tote bags. \u003ccite>(Stephanie Rosenbaum Klassen)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>According to moderator (and Jarry co-founder/editor) Lukas Volger, the idea of the \"queer kitchen\"--as opposed to \"gay food\"--seemed both more inclusive and more contemporary, at a time when few, if any, restaurants would position themselves as catering to an exclusively gay clientele. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Writer and former chef John Birdsall is a firm believer that there is a queer aesthetic in food, with its roots in the work of Craig Claiborne, James Beard, and ex-pat Richard Olney, a trifecta of closeted gay men whose sensibilities and far-reaching influence changed the way Americans cooked. It's a legacy that Birdsall thinks more people--especially straight chefs--should acknowledge. \"I love \u003ca href=\"http://luckypeach.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Lucky Peach\u003c/a> [magazine],\" said Birdsall. \"But the first couple of issues were really reflective of that male, straight, bro-y chef culture.\" It was this narrowly macho focus that led Birdsall to set the record less than straight with \u003ca href=\"http://luckypeach.com/america-your-food-is-so-gay/\" target=\"_blank\">America, Your Food is So Gay\u003c/a>, which won a James Beard Journalism Award in 2014. Birdsall, now 56, remembers he and a boyfriend reading aloud from Olney's writings, feeling like they were getting a glimpse of a secret gay world, one that was, by necessity, elusive, both cooly cerebral yet infused with the sensuality of Olney's adopted home in the south of France, its brilliant light, its hillsides of thyme and lavender. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But what was coded and discrete before was, by the 1990s, exploding into \u003cem>we're here, we're queer, get used to it\u003c/em>, especially in San Francisco. When Preeti Mistry, co-owner and head chef of Oakland's \u003ca href=\"http://www.juhubeachclub.com\" target=\"_blank\">Juhu Beach Club\u003c/a>, first came to San Francisco in 1996, she found out lesbians like Elizabeth Falkner, Traci Des Jardins, and Elka Gilmore putting their stamp on the evolving California cuisine of the time. Mistry, who originally wanted to be a filmmaker, was inspired by these chefs' creativity and fearlessness, so much so that she left a job in the \"gay bubble\" of \u003ca href=\"http://frameline.org/\" target=\"_blank\">Frameline\u003c/a> to start training in fine dining at Claridge's in London. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_110361\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 3024px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent6-new.jpg\" alt=\"Writer John Birdsall, photographer Nik Sharma, restauranteur/chef Preeti Mistry, in conversation with Jarry editor Lukas Volger.\" width=\"3024\" height=\"3024\" class=\"size-full wp-image-110361\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent6-new.jpg 3024w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent6-new-400x400.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent6-new-800x800.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent6-new-768x768.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent6-new-1440x1440.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent6-new-1180x1180.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent6-new-960x960.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent6-new-150x150.jpg 150w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent6-new-32x32.jpg 32w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent6-new-50x50.jpg 50w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent6-new-64x64.jpg 64w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent6-new-96x96.jpg 96w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent6-new-128x128.jpg 128w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 3024px) 100vw, 3024px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Writer John Birdsall, photographer Nik Sharma, restauranteur/chef Preeti Mistry, in conversation with Jarry editor Lukas Volger. \u003ccite>(Stephanie Rosenbaum Klassen)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"These women were my heroes,\" she said. It wasn't just that these women were out, at a time when restaurant kitchens could still be tough places for women, gay or straight. It was that they were changing the game, on and off the plate. \"At Citizen Cake, Elizabeth changed the presentation of pastry,\" said Mistry. Her cakes were architectural, pierced with sugar shards or kitschily frosted shag-carpet deep. They were disruptive, deconstructed, even a little bit dangerous. (It's no surprise that her first cookbook, written in the form of a comic book, was titled \"Demolition Desserts.\") Mistry remembers a dinner with Jim Dodge, then a well-known pastry chef trained in a more classical style. \"When Elizabeth's dessert came out, he said 'What is this crap?'\" It was a clash of sensibilities, his gay, hers queer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For photographer Nik Sharma of the blog \u003ca href=\"http://www.abrowntable.com/\" target=\"_blank\">A Brown Table\u003c/a>, and the youngest of the group, coming out wasn't an issue, but finding a gay social circle when he first started medical school wasn't easy. A chat with a gay professor led to an invitation to the med school's \"secret gay potluck\"--secret not out of fear, but simply because \"they didn't want any straights to come,\" said Sharma. Formerly a medical researcher, now a professional photographer specializing in food, he still treasures the friendships he made over those dinners. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_110362\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2499px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent5.jpg\" alt=\"Photographer Nik Sharma and writer John Birdsall, with portrait of Sharma by Patrick Byrnes from Jarry issue 2.\" width=\"2499\" height=\"2846\" class=\"size-full wp-image-110362\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent5.jpg 2499w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent5-400x456.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent5-800x911.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent5-768x875.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent5-1440x1640.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent5-1180x1344.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent5-960x1093.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2499px) 100vw, 2499px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Photographer Nik Sharma and writer John Birdsall, with portrait of Sharma by Patrick Byrnes from Jarry issue 2. \u003ccite>(Stephanie Rosenbaum Klassen)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Sharma, like Mistry, is of Indian heritage. Calling out his brownness in the title of his blog--and often photographing his own hands as he made pastry or squeezed oranges--was a deliberate choice, compelled by a wish to make visual space for his immigrant perspective and culture within a blogging world that was overwhelming white and female. His work has paid off: next week, he'll have a new column, A Brown Kitchen, in the San Francisco Chronicle, and his blog has won numerous awards for photography. Sharma was also the subject of a \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/arts/2016/01/08/discover-the-hands-behind-nik-sharmas-food-photography/\" target=\"_blank\">short video\u003c/a> on KQED back in January.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Birdsall, who won a second James Beard Award for \u003ca href=\"https://medium.com/jarry-mag/straight-up-passing-1fab62a5536c#.a3mm0vlqj\" target=\"_blank\">Straight Up Passing\u003c/a>, an article about gay chefs in Jarry's first issue, sees queer cooking as an act of anti-normative transgression and resistance. It's not a concept that all the chefs he spoke to agreed with--in fact, he was stonewalled by several high-profile out chefs, who bristled at being categorized as \"gay chefs,\" much in the way that many artists resist being defined as \"women writers\" or \"female musicians,\" or felt that their sexuality had nothing to do with how they cooked. Or was it just that these chefs--white and \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cisgender\" target=\"_blank\">cisgender\u003c/a>, as Mistry points out--still had more to lose by promoting a higher profile gay identity, even in these more equal times? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Birdsall feels that such transgressive attitudes in the kitchen can be adopted even by non-gay chefs. He points to the boundary-breaking of \u003ca href=\"https://missionchinesefood.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Mission Chinese Food,\u003c/a> as well as the \"sensitive, fluid, thoughtful\" cooking of \u003ca href=\"http://dpgrp.co/\" target=\"_blank\">Daniel Patterson.\u003c/a> Reaching back to the work of Jeremiah Tower (who was mentored by both Beard and Olney), Birdsall sees Tower's shaping of California cuisine in the 1980s as \"a repudiation of the more formal cuisine that came before, as an expression of intense pleasurability, [creating] these very high-level, pleasurable experiences in both cooking and eating.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I'm not interested in forcing something that's not natural, in over-manipulation\" of ingredients or presentation, said Mistry. \"We're not distilling things; it's fire and food and spices.\" And while she does have a underlying aesthetic for plating (\"It's not a trough!\"), she doesn't see the need to torture her food with stylists' tweezers, either. More important to Mistry is creating a workplace, and a dining room, that's diverse and welcoming in ways that restaurants haven't always been, both for diners and employees. Her goal is a place that's so diverse that no one group is on top with the power to belittle or harass others. The vulgar humor that's been long seen as a staple in restaurant kitchens has no place in hers. \"We make jokes and laugh all day long,\" said Mistry, but her employees learn fast that dumb dick jokes won't fly. \"We just shame and humiliate them if they try. Like, 'that's the best you come up with? Really?'\" Mistry said. \"They have to work harder than that.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As a butch woman of color, Mistry has experienced first-hand the stark contrast between how she and her wife, Juhu Beach Club co-owner Ann Nadeau, are treated in restaurants when they are and aren't recognized. If she's recognized from her stint on Top Chef and Anthony Bourdain's \u003ca href=\"http://sfist.com/2015/10/14/eat_exactly_as_anthony_bourdain_did.php\" target=\"_blank\">Parts Unknown\u003c/a> food and travel show, they get the industry hotshot treatment; if not, they've been ignored by bartenders and slighted by hostesses. \"When \u003ca href=\"http://blacklivesmatter.com/category/alicia-garza/\" target=\"_blank\">Alicia Garza\u003c/a>, a co-founder of the Black Lives Matter movement, comes in, we treat her like a rock star,\" Mistry said. Part of running her own restaurant is the freedom to speak out for causes and issues she and Nadeau feel strongly about, and to create a workplace that reflects the diversity of Oakland, where she and Nadeau work and live. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The tides are changing, both in race and gender,\" Mistry said. \"People are used to seeing brown people in the kitchen. We'd like to have an equal diversity in the front of the house.\" \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "John Birdsall, Preeti Mistry, and Nik Sharma discuss the concept of the Queer Kitchen with Jarry mag. ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>What is a queer kitchen? Is there a recognizable queer style or sensibility that can be expressed through food? Can non-gay chefs queer their food? As the rainbow-stickered crowds in booty shorts and body glitter surged through Dolores Park and Civic Center on a sunny Saturday afternoon, a rather more sedate audience of thirty gathered upstairs at Williams Sonoma's flagship store in Union Square to listen to a discussion of these questions and more. The conversation was the first San Francisco event organized by the New York-based gay men's food magazine \u003ca href=\"http://www.jarrymag.com\" target=\"_blank\">Jarry\u003c/a>, a twice-yearly print publication that launched (thanks in part to a Kickstarter campaign) in the fall of 2015. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_110367\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent4-new.jpg\" alt=\"Jarry issue 2 and tote bags.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" class=\"size-full wp-image-110367\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent4-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent4-new-400x400.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent4-new-800x800.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent4-new-768x768.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent4-new-1440x1440.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent4-new-1180x1180.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent4-new-960x960.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent4-new-150x150.jpg 150w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent4-new-32x32.jpg 32w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent4-new-50x50.jpg 50w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent4-new-64x64.jpg 64w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent4-new-96x96.jpg 96w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent4-new-128x128.jpg 128w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jarry issue 2 and tote bags. \u003ccite>(Stephanie Rosenbaum Klassen)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>According to moderator (and Jarry co-founder/editor) Lukas Volger, the idea of the \"queer kitchen\"--as opposed to \"gay food\"--seemed both more inclusive and more contemporary, at a time when few, if any, restaurants would position themselves as catering to an exclusively gay clientele. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Writer and former chef John Birdsall is a firm believer that there is a queer aesthetic in food, with its roots in the work of Craig Claiborne, James Beard, and ex-pat Richard Olney, a trifecta of closeted gay men whose sensibilities and far-reaching influence changed the way Americans cooked. It's a legacy that Birdsall thinks more people--especially straight chefs--should acknowledge. \"I love \u003ca href=\"http://luckypeach.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Lucky Peach\u003c/a> [magazine],\" said Birdsall. \"But the first couple of issues were really reflective of that male, straight, bro-y chef culture.\" It was this narrowly macho focus that led Birdsall to set the record less than straight with \u003ca href=\"http://luckypeach.com/america-your-food-is-so-gay/\" target=\"_blank\">America, Your Food is So Gay\u003c/a>, which won a James Beard Journalism Award in 2014. Birdsall, now 56, remembers he and a boyfriend reading aloud from Olney's writings, feeling like they were getting a glimpse of a secret gay world, one that was, by necessity, elusive, both cooly cerebral yet infused with the sensuality of Olney's adopted home in the south of France, its brilliant light, its hillsides of thyme and lavender. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But what was coded and discrete before was, by the 1990s, exploding into \u003cem>we're here, we're queer, get used to it\u003c/em>, especially in San Francisco. When Preeti Mistry, co-owner and head chef of Oakland's \u003ca href=\"http://www.juhubeachclub.com\" target=\"_blank\">Juhu Beach Club\u003c/a>, first came to San Francisco in 1996, she found out lesbians like Elizabeth Falkner, Traci Des Jardins, and Elka Gilmore putting their stamp on the evolving California cuisine of the time. Mistry, who originally wanted to be a filmmaker, was inspired by these chefs' creativity and fearlessness, so much so that she left a job in the \"gay bubble\" of \u003ca href=\"http://frameline.org/\" target=\"_blank\">Frameline\u003c/a> to start training in fine dining at Claridge's in London. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_110361\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 3024px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent6-new.jpg\" alt=\"Writer John Birdsall, photographer Nik Sharma, restauranteur/chef Preeti Mistry, in conversation with Jarry editor Lukas Volger.\" width=\"3024\" height=\"3024\" class=\"size-full wp-image-110361\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent6-new.jpg 3024w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent6-new-400x400.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent6-new-800x800.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent6-new-768x768.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent6-new-1440x1440.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent6-new-1180x1180.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent6-new-960x960.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent6-new-150x150.jpg 150w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent6-new-32x32.jpg 32w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent6-new-50x50.jpg 50w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent6-new-64x64.jpg 64w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent6-new-96x96.jpg 96w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent6-new-128x128.jpg 128w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 3024px) 100vw, 3024px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Writer John Birdsall, photographer Nik Sharma, restauranteur/chef Preeti Mistry, in conversation with Jarry editor Lukas Volger. \u003ccite>(Stephanie Rosenbaum Klassen)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"These women were my heroes,\" she said. It wasn't just that these women were out, at a time when restaurant kitchens could still be tough places for women, gay or straight. It was that they were changing the game, on and off the plate. \"At Citizen Cake, Elizabeth changed the presentation of pastry,\" said Mistry. Her cakes were architectural, pierced with sugar shards or kitschily frosted shag-carpet deep. They were disruptive, deconstructed, even a little bit dangerous. (It's no surprise that her first cookbook, written in the form of a comic book, was titled \"Demolition Desserts.\") Mistry remembers a dinner with Jim Dodge, then a well-known pastry chef trained in a more classical style. \"When Elizabeth's dessert came out, he said 'What is this crap?'\" It was a clash of sensibilities, his gay, hers queer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For photographer Nik Sharma of the blog \u003ca href=\"http://www.abrowntable.com/\" target=\"_blank\">A Brown Table\u003c/a>, and the youngest of the group, coming out wasn't an issue, but finding a gay social circle when he first started medical school wasn't easy. A chat with a gay professor led to an invitation to the med school's \"secret gay potluck\"--secret not out of fear, but simply because \"they didn't want any straights to come,\" said Sharma. Formerly a medical researcher, now a professional photographer specializing in food, he still treasures the friendships he made over those dinners. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_110362\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2499px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent5.jpg\" alt=\"Photographer Nik Sharma and writer John Birdsall, with portrait of Sharma by Patrick Byrnes from Jarry issue 2.\" width=\"2499\" height=\"2846\" class=\"size-full wp-image-110362\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent5.jpg 2499w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent5-400x456.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent5-800x911.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent5-768x875.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent5-1440x1640.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent5-1180x1344.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/06/JarryEvent5-960x1093.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2499px) 100vw, 2499px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Photographer Nik Sharma and writer John Birdsall, with portrait of Sharma by Patrick Byrnes from Jarry issue 2. \u003ccite>(Stephanie Rosenbaum Klassen)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Sharma, like Mistry, is of Indian heritage. Calling out his brownness in the title of his blog--and often photographing his own hands as he made pastry or squeezed oranges--was a deliberate choice, compelled by a wish to make visual space for his immigrant perspective and culture within a blogging world that was overwhelming white and female. His work has paid off: next week, he'll have a new column, A Brown Kitchen, in the San Francisco Chronicle, and his blog has won numerous awards for photography. Sharma was also the subject of a \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/arts/2016/01/08/discover-the-hands-behind-nik-sharmas-food-photography/\" target=\"_blank\">short video\u003c/a> on KQED back in January.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Birdsall, who won a second James Beard Award for \u003ca href=\"https://medium.com/jarry-mag/straight-up-passing-1fab62a5536c#.a3mm0vlqj\" target=\"_blank\">Straight Up Passing\u003c/a>, an article about gay chefs in Jarry's first issue, sees queer cooking as an act of anti-normative transgression and resistance. It's not a concept that all the chefs he spoke to agreed with--in fact, he was stonewalled by several high-profile out chefs, who bristled at being categorized as \"gay chefs,\" much in the way that many artists resist being defined as \"women writers\" or \"female musicians,\" or felt that their sexuality had nothing to do with how they cooked. Or was it just that these chefs--white and \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cisgender\" target=\"_blank\">cisgender\u003c/a>, as Mistry points out--still had more to lose by promoting a higher profile gay identity, even in these more equal times? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Birdsall feels that such transgressive attitudes in the kitchen can be adopted even by non-gay chefs. He points to the boundary-breaking of \u003ca href=\"https://missionchinesefood.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Mission Chinese Food,\u003c/a> as well as the \"sensitive, fluid, thoughtful\" cooking of \u003ca href=\"http://dpgrp.co/\" target=\"_blank\">Daniel Patterson.\u003c/a> Reaching back to the work of Jeremiah Tower (who was mentored by both Beard and Olney), Birdsall sees Tower's shaping of California cuisine in the 1980s as \"a repudiation of the more formal cuisine that came before, as an expression of intense pleasurability, [creating] these very high-level, pleasurable experiences in both cooking and eating.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I'm not interested in forcing something that's not natural, in over-manipulation\" of ingredients or presentation, said Mistry. \"We're not distilling things; it's fire and food and spices.\" And while she does have a underlying aesthetic for plating (\"It's not a trough!\"), she doesn't see the need to torture her food with stylists' tweezers, either. More important to Mistry is creating a workplace, and a dining room, that's diverse and welcoming in ways that restaurants haven't always been, both for diners and employees. Her goal is a place that's so diverse that no one group is on top with the power to belittle or harass others. The vulgar humor that's been long seen as a staple in restaurant kitchens has no place in hers. \"We make jokes and laugh all day long,\" said Mistry, but her employees learn fast that dumb dick jokes won't fly. \"We just shame and humiliate them if they try. Like, 'that's the best you come up with? Really?'\" Mistry said. \"They have to work harder than that.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As a butch woman of color, Mistry has experienced first-hand the stark contrast between how she and her wife, Juhu Beach Club co-owner Ann Nadeau, are treated in restaurants when they are and aren't recognized. If she's recognized from her stint on Top Chef and Anthony Bourdain's \u003ca href=\"http://sfist.com/2015/10/14/eat_exactly_as_anthony_bourdain_did.php\" target=\"_blank\">Parts Unknown\u003c/a> food and travel show, they get the industry hotshot treatment; if not, they've been ignored by bartenders and slighted by hostesses. \"When \u003ca href=\"http://blacklivesmatter.com/category/alicia-garza/\" target=\"_blank\">Alicia Garza\u003c/a>, a co-founder of the Black Lives Matter movement, comes in, we treat her like a rock star,\" Mistry said. Part of running her own restaurant is the freedom to speak out for causes and issues she and Nadeau feel strongly about, and to create a workplace that reflects the diversity of Oakland, where she and Nadeau work and live. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The tides are changing, both in race and gender,\" Mistry said. \"People are used to seeing brown people in the kitchen. We'd like to have an equal diversity in the front of the house.\" \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"id": "american-suburb-podcast",
"title": "American Suburb: The Podcast",
"tagline": "The flip side of gentrification, told through one town",
"info": "Gentrification is changing cities across America, forcing people from neighborhoods they have long called home. Call them the displaced. Now those priced out of the Bay Area are looking for a better life in an unlikely place. American Suburb follows this migration to one California town along the Delta, 45 miles from San Francisco. But is this once sleepy suburb ready for them?",
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"order": 19
},
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"tagline": "Exploring the Bay Area, one question at a time",
"info": "KQED’s new podcast, Bay Curious, gets to the bottom of the mysteries — both profound and peculiar — that give the Bay Area its unique identity. And we’ll do it with your help! You ask the questions. You decide what Bay Curious investigates. And you join us on the journey to find the answers.",
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},
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},
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"info": "KQED’s statewide radio news program providing daily coverage of issues, trends and public policy decisions.",
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"order": 8
},
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},
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM3NjkwNjk1OTAz",
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"info": "A one-hour radio program to hear celebrated writers, artists and thinkers address contemporary ideas and values, often discussing the creative process. Please note: tapes or transcripts are not available",
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"airtime": "SUN 1pm-2pm, TUE 10pm, WED 1am",
"meta": {
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"source": "City Arts & Lectures"
},
"link": "https://www.cityarts.net",
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},
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"order": 1
},
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"title": "Code Switch / Life Kit",
"info": "\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em>, which listeners will hear in the first part of the hour, has fearless and much-needed conversations about race. Hosted by journalists of color, the show tackles the subject of race head-on, exploring how it impacts every part of society — from politics and pop culture to history, sports and more.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em>, which will be in the second part of the hour, guides you through spaces and feelings no one prepares you for — from finances to mental health, from workplace microaggressions to imposter syndrome, from relationships to parenting. The show features experts with real world experience and shares their knowledge. Because everyone needs a little help being human.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/510312/codeswitch\">\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/lifekit\">\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />",
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},
"commonwealth-club": {
"id": "commonwealth-club",
"title": "Commonwealth Club of California Podcast",
"info": "The Commonwealth Club of California is the nation's oldest and largest public affairs forum. As a non-partisan forum, The Club brings to the public airwaves diverse viewpoints on important topics. The Club's weekly radio broadcast - the oldest in the U.S., dating back to 1924 - is carried across the nation on public radio stations and is now podcasting. Our website archive features audio of our recent programs, as well as selected speeches from our long and distinguished history. This podcast feed is usually updated twice a week and is always un-edited.",
"airtime": "THU 10pm, FRI 1am",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Commonwealth-Club-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
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"source": "Commonwealth Club of California"
},
"link": "/radio/program/commonwealth-club",
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},
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"title": "Forum",
"tagline": "The conversation starts here",
"info": "KQED’s live call-in program discussing local, state, national and international issues, as well as in-depth interviews.",
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"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Forum-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
"imageAlt": "KQED Forum with Mina Kim and Alexis Madrigal",
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"source": "kqed",
"order": 9
},
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},
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"info": "Freakonomics Radio is a one-hour award-winning podcast and public-radio project hosted by Stephen Dubner, with co-author Steve Levitt as a regular guest. It is produced in partnership with WNYC.",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "http://freakonomics.com/",
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"meta": {
"site": "radio",
"source": "WNYC"
},
"link": "/radio/program/freakonomics-radio",
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},
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"id": "fresh-air",
"title": "Fresh Air",
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"info": "A live production of NPR and WBUR Boston, in collaboration with stations across the country, Here & Now reflects the fluid world of news as it's happening in the middle of the day, with timely, in-depth news, interviews and conversation. Hosted by Robin Young, Jeremy Hobson and Tonya Mosley.",
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},
"hidden-brain": {
"id": "hidden-brain",
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"info": "Shankar Vedantam uses science and storytelling to reveal the unconscious patterns that drive human behavior, shape our choices and direct our relationships.",
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"airtime": "SUN 7pm-8pm",
"meta": {
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"source": "NPR"
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"link": "/radio/program/hidden-brain",
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"how-i-built-this": {
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"title": "How I Built This with Guy Raz",
"info": "Guy Raz dives into the stories behind some of the world's best known companies. How I Built This weaves a narrative journey about innovators, entrepreneurs and idealists—and the movements they built.",
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"airtime": "SUN 7:30pm-8pm",
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"link": "/radio/program/how-i-built-this",
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"hyphenacion": {
"id": "hyphenacion",
"title": "Hyphenación",
"tagline": "Where conversation and cultura meet",
"info": "What kind of no sabo word is Hyphenación? For us, it’s about living within a hyphenation. Like being a third-gen Mexican-American from the Texas border now living that Bay Area Chicano life. Like Xorje! Each week we bring together a couple of hyphenated Latinos to talk all about personal life choices: family, careers, relationships, belonging … everything is on the table. ",
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},
"jerrybrown": {
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"title": "The Political Mind of Jerry Brown",
"tagline": "Lessons from a lifetime in politics",
"info": "The Political Mind of Jerry Brown brings listeners the wisdom of the former Governor, Mayor, and presidential candidate. Scott Shafer interviewed Brown for more than 40 hours, covering the former governor's life and half-century in the political game – and Brown has some lessons he'd like to share. ",
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"order": 18
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},
"latino-usa": {
"id": "latino-usa",
"title": "Latino USA",
"airtime": "MON 1am-2am, SUN 6pm-7pm",
"info": "Latino USA, the radio journal of news and culture, is the only national, English-language radio program produced from a Latino perspective.",
"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/latinoUsa.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "http://latinousa.org/",
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},
"link": "/radio/program/latino-usa",
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=79681317&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory",
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"rss": "https://feeds.npr.org/510016/podcast.xml"
}
},
"marketplace": {
"id": "marketplace",
"title": "Marketplace",
"info": "Our flagship program, helmed by Kai Ryssdal, examines what the day in money delivered, through stories, conversations, newsworthy numbers and more. Updated Monday through Friday at about 3:30 p.m. PT.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 4pm-4:30pm, MON-WED 6:30pm-7pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Marketplace-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.marketplace.org/",
"meta": {
"site": "news",
"source": "American Public Media"
},
"link": "/radio/program/marketplace",
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"rss": "https://feeds.publicradio.org/public_feeds/marketplace-pm/rss/rss"
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},
"masters-of-scale": {
"id": "masters-of-scale",
"title": "Masters of Scale",
"info": "Masters of Scale is an original podcast in which LinkedIn co-founder and Greylock Partner Reid Hoffman sets out to describe and prove theories that explain how great entrepreneurs take their companies from zero to a gazillion in ingenious fashion.",
"airtime": "Every other Wednesday June 12 through October 16 at 8pm (repeats Thursdays at 2am)",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "https://mastersofscale.com/",
"meta": {
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"source": "WaitWhat"
},
"link": "/radio/program/masters-of-scale",
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"rss": "https://rss.art19.com/masters-of-scale"
}
},
"mindshift": {
"id": "mindshift",
"title": "MindShift",
"tagline": "A podcast about the future of learning and how we raise our kids",
"info": "The MindShift podcast explores the innovations in education that are shaping how kids learn. Hosts Ki Sung and Katrina Schwartz introduce listeners to educators, researchers, parents and students who are developing effective ways to improve how kids learn. We cover topics like how fed-up administrators are developing surprising tactics to deal with classroom disruptions; how listening to podcasts are helping kids develop reading skills; the consequences of overparenting; and why interdisciplinary learning can engage students on all ends of the traditional achievement spectrum. This podcast is part of the MindShift education site, a division of KQED News. KQED is an NPR/PBS member station based in San Francisco. You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>",
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