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"bio": "\u003cp class=\"p1\">I'm the SF Bay Area editor for Zagat. Before this post, I was a restaurants writer for Thrillist and SF Weekly, along with covering the wine industry for Vino 24/7. I've also dabbled in tech start-ups (of course) and TV journalism (most recently with NBC on their Rio Olympics research team). You'll find me at taquerias, bakeries, bars, pizzerias, corner bistros and tasting menu destinations throughout the Bay Area. Cheers!\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "A Northern California Wine Bootcamp Adventure: From St. Helena to San Francisco",
"title": "A Northern California Wine Bootcamp Adventure: From St. Helena to San Francisco",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>[aside postID='bayareabites_134208' label='Back to Wine Bootcamp Central']\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/134550/a-northern-california-wine-bootcamp-adventure-from-st-helena-to-san-francisco#charles-krug\">Charles Krug Winery\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/134550/a-northern-california-wine-bootcamp-adventure-from-st-helena-to-san-francisco#smith-madrone\">Smith-Madrone Vineyards\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/134550/a-northern-california-wine-bootcamp-adventure-from-st-helena-to-san-francisco#lunch\">Oakville Grocery\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/134550/a-northern-california-wine-bootcamp-adventure-from-st-helena-to-san-francisco#shafer\">Shafer Vineyards\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/134550/a-northern-california-wine-bootcamp-adventure-from-st-helena-to-san-francisco#far-niente\">Far Niente Winery\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>[googlemaps https://www.google.com/maps/d/u/0/embed?mid=1ONI_1j0NZr4gINICM4XI49EM0C7RGeCB&w=640&h=480]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca id=\"charles-krug\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Charles Krug Winery\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.google.com/maps/place/Charles+Krug+Winery/@38.518744,-122.480955,15z/data=!4m5!3m4!1s0x0:0x5ed38c326d8a3f5a!8m2!3d38.518744!4d-122.480955\">2800 Main St.\u003c/a>\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>St. Helena, CA 94574\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134660\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/CharlesKrug-vineyards-Greystone.jpg\" alt=\"Estate vines at Charles Krug Winery, looking at the Culinary Institute of America’s Greystone campus\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-134660\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/CharlesKrug-vineyards-Greystone.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/CharlesKrug-vineyards-Greystone-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/CharlesKrug-vineyards-Greystone-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/CharlesKrug-vineyards-Greystone-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/CharlesKrug-vineyards-Greystone-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/CharlesKrug-vineyards-Greystone-1200x900.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Estate vines at Charles Krug Winery, looking at the Culinary Institute of America’s Greystone campus \u003ccite>(Trevor Felch/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The trip’s earliest start and most rushed visit (with just one taste because of timing) came at one of California wine history’s true icons: \u003ca href=\"http://www.charleskrug.com\">Charles Krug\u003c/a>. Contrary to what most people think, THIS is actually the winery owned by the Mondavi family. Robert Mondavi Winery is now part of Constellation Brands. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You won’t hear much at Charles Krug about the infamous family split where brothers Peter and Robert had various disagreements about the direction of the winery, the style of a winery (with nitpicks like how Robert wanted all French oak) and how the winery’s money should be spent. After the split, Robert created his namesake winery further south towards Oakville and Peter ran Charles Krug.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Several Mondavi family members still live on the Charles Krug property, which stayed that name because its original owner (Charles Krug) wrote in the land grant (it was originally given to him as a wedding dowry) that it shall never change. Hence the confusion for many wine drinkers, myself included, how Charles Krug is the real Mondavi domain. Got it all? Yes, this family is one of the most famous and confusing in all of wine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134661\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/Charles-Krug-barrels.jpg\" alt=\"The signature burgundy painted barrels resting at Charles Krug Winery\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-134661\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/Charles-Krug-barrels.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/Charles-Krug-barrels-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/Charles-Krug-barrels-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/Charles-Krug-barrels-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/Charles-Krug-barrels-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/Charles-Krug-barrels-1200x900.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The signature burgundy painted barrels resting at Charles Krug Winery \u003ccite>(Trevor Felch/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Everywhere you look on the property across Highway 29 from the Culinary Institute of America Greystone complex is history and something majestic: gorgeous valley vistas, barrels with red stripes that are painted to look like they’re bleeding wine, and a striking Howard Backen redesigned carriage house that John fell in love with since he does lots of woodwork at his homes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I can’t vouch for the quality of all 50,000 cases the winery produces, but our one taste was a phenomenal 2015 'Generations’ Bordeaux blend.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Also consider:\u003c/b> \u003ca href=\"http://www.freemarkabbey.com\">Freemark Abbey\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.inglenook.com\">Inglenook\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.ackermanfamilyvineyards.com\">Ackerman Family Vineyards/Heritage House\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca id=\"smith-madrone\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Smith-Madrone Vineyards\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.google.com/maps/place/Smith-Madrone+Vineyards/@38.5322882,-122.549057,15z/data=!4m5!3m4!1s0x0:0x8c5e7f7cfbc3e671!8m2!3d38.5322882!4d-122.549057\">4022 Spring Mountain Rd.\u003c/a>\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>St. Helena, CA 94574\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134662\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/Smith-Madrone-Wines.jpg\" alt=\"Some of Smith-Madrone’s exceptional wines including a 2016 Chardonnay, 2013 Cook’s Flat Reserve and 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-134662\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/Smith-Madrone-Wines.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/Smith-Madrone-Wines-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/Smith-Madrone-Wines-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/Smith-Madrone-Wines-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/Smith-Madrone-Wines-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/Smith-Madrone-Wines-900x1200.jpg 900w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Some of Smith-Madrone’s exceptional wines including a 2016 Chardonnay, 2013 Cook’s Flat Reserve and 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon \u003ccite>(Trevor Felch/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Luckily, I had been to this rustic Spring Mountain legend once before, so I already knew how many twists and turns were coming up en route to stop 2 for the day. You \u003ci>will\u003c/i> get lost your first time going to \u003ca href=\"http://www.smithmadrone.com\">Smith Madrone\u003c/a>. This time, we weren’t lost, but we did get greeted by a giant fallen tree in the process of being removed, so there was some off-roading needed. Speaking of off-roading, assistant winemaker Sam Smith whisked us away almost immediately in an off-road four-wheeler and zoomed us all over the dry-farmed estate vineyards, through forests, by streams, and almost everywhere yielded panoramic valley views. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sam is the son of Stuart Smith, who founded the winery in 1971 and runs it with his brother Charles, who serves as the winemaker. Sam is also the most talented balancer of a wine glass while driving through potholes I have ever seen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134663\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/Smith-Madrone-exploring.jpg\" alt=\"John and Smith-Madrone Vineyard & Winery’s Assistant Winemaker Sam Smith discuss wine and off-road vehicles in the redwood forests of Spring Mountain\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-134663\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/Smith-Madrone-exploring.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/Smith-Madrone-exploring-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/Smith-Madrone-exploring-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/Smith-Madrone-exploring-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/Smith-Madrone-exploring-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/Smith-Madrone-exploring-900x1200.jpg 900w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">John and Smith-Madrone Vineyard & Winery’s Assistant Winemaker Sam Smith discuss wine and off-road vehicles in the redwood forests of Spring Mountain \u003ccite>(Trevor Felch/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>This is old Napa, where there is no glitz, the Cabernet Sauvignon still hovers around the $50 mark, and it’s one of three wineries still growing Riesling, which way back in the day was a primary grape of Napa Valley. Smith-Madrone’s Cook’s Flat Reserve is their answer to the Screaming Eagles of Napa Valley, with extensive layers and giant, rich red and black fruit notes. It is priced accordingly since the Smiths finally realized they needed to adapt a little bit to the Napa Valley of the 2010s.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When tourists and locals alike ask about \u003ci>the\u003c/i> Napa Valley winery to visit — you know, the secret one with gorgeous views, no pretention, excellent wine, no wine club hard sell, huge character — this is that winery.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>3 wines to try:\u003c/b> 2015 Riesling, 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon, 2013 Cook’s Flat Reserve\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Also consider:\u003c/b> \u003ca href=\"http://www.stonyhillvineyard.com\">Stony Hill\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.greenandred.com/\">Green & Red\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.tressabores.com\">Tres Sabores\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca id=\"lunch\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Lunch: \u003ca href=\"http://oakvillegrocery.com/?SID=0dd07f4f7569a623bff82ace209f3e98\">Oakville Grocery\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.google.com/maps/place/Oakville+Grocery/@38.4373272,-122.4029416,15z/data=!4m5!3m4!1s0x0:0x47087a7305951bc9!8m2!3d38.4373272!4d-122.4029416\">\u003ci>7856 St. Helena Hwy, Oakville\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/BrGVX1Lhr7r/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A Napa Valley daytime staple. On weekends, it’s Bay Bridge rush hour traffic-like packed. Luckily, on a Monday in early December we were almost alone. The bread for the sandwiches is shockingly pedestrian, so opt for the prepared salads and any dessert.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Also consider:\u003c/b> \u003ca href=\"http://www.lacalendamex.com\">La Calenda\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.thomaskeller.com/bouchonyountville\">Bouchon\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.redd-wood.com/\">Redd Wood\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca id=\"shafer\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Shafer Vineyards\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.google.com/maps/place/Shafer+Vineyards/@38.421021,-122.326365,15z/data=!4m5!3m4!1s0x0:0xf32e8bbbafb3a50b!8m2!3d38.421021!4d-122.326365\">6154 Silverado Trail\u003c/a>\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Napa, CA 94558\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134664\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/Shafer-cave.jpg\" alt=\"Barrels resting in Shafer Vineyards’ sprawling caves\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-134664\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/Shafer-cave.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/Shafer-cave-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/Shafer-cave-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/Shafer-cave-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/Shafer-cave-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/Shafer-cave-900x1200.jpg 900w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Barrels resting in Shafer Vineyards’ sprawling caves \u003ccite>(Trevor Felch/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>John figured out the “surprise winery” of the trip secretly long before seeing \u003ci>the\u003c/i> hillside. That hillside, nestled behind \u003ca href=\"http://shafervineyards.com/\">Shafer Vineyards\u003c/a> a little off the Silverado Trail in what is considered the Stags Leap District, is probably the most famous “hillside” in Napa Valley and thankfully just missed being struck by the 2017 fires, whose damage you can still clearly see further up the hill towards Atlas Peak. It’s the hillside of “Hillside Select”, one of Napa Valley’s definitive wines.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I had seen in John’s cellar spreadsheet that he had some Shafer, though it wasn’t Hillside Select, so I figured this would be a fun surprise. Somehow, he already knew it would be Shafer, perhaps because he might not have any other Napa Valley wines? Anyhow, what I didn’t know is that he and Meg’s mom had tried to visit Shafer before and failed since they couldn’t just walk in. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Reservation in hand, our host Andy Demsky asked if we were “winery toured out” and we pretty much were. But, when you’re at a place of Shafer’s renown, you must see what you can see. So we breezed through the gorgeous winery, saw winemaker Elias Fernandez in action doing some careful cleaning and sampling, then tasted what was easily one of the trip’s finest lineups.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134665\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/Shafer-wine-tasting.jpg\" alt=\"The celebrated Hillside Select (far right) and its excellent peers at Shafer Vineyards\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-134665\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/Shafer-wine-tasting.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/Shafer-wine-tasting-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/Shafer-wine-tasting-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/Shafer-wine-tasting-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/Shafer-wine-tasting-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/Shafer-wine-tasting-900x1200.jpg 900w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The celebrated Hillside Select (far right) and its excellent peers at Shafer Vineyards \u003ccite>(Trevor Felch/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Like at Peter Michael and Kosta Browne, those lofty Wine Spectator scores didn’t lie in this instance. Shafer is deservedly a Napa Valley legend, 30,000 cases strong, and really doing a fantastic job creating big wines that also boast excitement. One reason for that is the fun use of different oaks in the wine. Winery president Doug Shafer calls the different types of barrels “the spice rack” with so many unique options that can add a slightly new angle to high caliber grapes, like spices might work for Thomas Keller at The French Laundry. It was an eye-opening analogy to winemaking for us.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>3 wines to try:\u003c/b> 2015 One Point Five, 2015 Relentless, 2014 Hillside Select\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Also consider:\u003c/b> \u003ca href=\"http://www.chappellet.com\">Chappellet\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.robertsinskey.com/\">Robert Sinskey\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.frogsleap.com\">Frog’s Leap\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca id=\"far-niente\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Far Niente Winery\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.google.com/maps/place/Far+Niente+Winery/@38.4257839,-122.4031331,15z/data=!4m5!3m4!1s0x0:0xc635dcaf43c9e1db!8m2!3d38.4257839!4d-122.4031331\">1350 Acacia Dr.\u003c/a>\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Oakville, CA 94562\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134666\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/FarNiente-NobHill.jpg\" alt=\"Far Niente’s predecessor — a 1977 bottle of Nob Hill Cellars by Far Niente founder Gil Nickel who bought an apartment on Nob Hill in San Francisco with winemaking equipment, which started off his illustrious wine career\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-134666\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/FarNiente-NobHill.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/FarNiente-NobHill-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/FarNiente-NobHill-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/FarNiente-NobHill-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/FarNiente-NobHill-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/FarNiente-NobHill-900x1200.jpg 900w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Far Niente’s predecessor — a 1977 bottle of Nob Hill Cellars by Far Niente founder Gil Nickel who bought an apartment on Nob Hill in San Francisco with winemaking equipment, which started off his illustrious wine career \u003ccite>(Trevor Felch/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>At long last, we arrived at the final winery of the trip. Of course, we were a bit leisurely with the exceptional Shafer wines, so we joined our \u003ca href=\"http://farniente.com\">Far Niente\u003c/a> tour as they were strolling through the endless ornate barrel rooms and cellars under the estate. Yes, this was our one public tour of the trip and by now we kind of just wanted to experience a winery as a tourist.\u003cbr>\n[aside postID='bayareabites_134546' align='left' label='Wineries from Boonville to Sebastopol']\u003cbr>\nAnd so we toured through Far Niente’s own Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon, including a regal 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon which was our oldest vintage of the trip, and Far Niente’s sibling EnRoute Pinot Noir from Russian River Valley, déjà vu from our first day of the trip. Not surprisingly, I was the only guest taking notes, something that reminded me that while it was a Monday work assignment for me, Napa Valley for these other guests from the likes of Miami and Orange County was a truly special vacation experience. They wanted that wine. They wanted the spectacular gardens and winery luxury, something Far Niente does particularly well at its Oakville estate. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Though it dates back to 1885 when a forty-niner founded the estate, Far Niente fell into disrepair because of Prohibition, but was resuscitated by the late Oklahoma based nursery owner (and later vintner) Gil Nickel. Hence, that’s why the gardens and exteriors of the property are particularly spectacular at this winery where landscape and wine were intertwined in the DNA of its longtime proprietor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We closed with a sip of our only sweet wine of the trip, the Dolce late harvest Sauternes style Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc sourced from the southern edge of the Napa Valley. Fittingly, it was our final sip of the trip and a sweet way to send us back to the big city.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>3 wines to try:\u003c/b> 2012 Dolce, 2016 EnRoute Pinot Noir “Les Pommiers,” 2016 estate Cabernet Sauvignon (and 2011 and 2009 if you can find them)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Also consider:\u003c/b> \u003ca href=\"http://www.josephphelps.com\">Joseph Phelps\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://corison.com\">Corison\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.hesscollection.com\">Hess Collection\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Our trip prelude dinner was at the intimate Potrero Flats wine geek favorite (and a worthy destination for delicious seasonal cooking) \u003ca href=\"http://themorris-sf.com\">The Morris\u003c/a> (\u003ca href=\"http://www.google.com/maps/place/The+Morris/@37.7629657,-122.4085607,15z/data=!4m5!3m4!1s0x0:0xc9872041746a8751!8m2!3d37.7629657!4d-122.4085607\">\u003cem>2501 Mariposa St., San Francisco\u003c/em>\u003c/a>).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/Bqt8fQqBcRO/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After Far Niente and a delightful sluggish rush hour trip across the Bay Bridge back to San Francisco, we closed with \u003ca href=\"http://biale.com\">Robert Biale\u003c/a> Zinfandel, Negronis, and the indulgent jazz club/supper club delight that is \u003ca href=\"http://www.bixrestaurant.com/\">Bix\u003c/a> (\u003ca href=\"http://www.google.com/maps/place/Bix/@37.7968728,-122.4029372,15z/data=!4m5!3m4!1s0x0:0xcba0a2e0fa5d9191!8m2!3d37.7968728!4d-122.4029372\">\u003cem>56 Gold St., San Francisco\u003c/em>\u003c/a>) near Jackson Square. It was indeed a fitting celebration to celebrate a special week.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/BrLrhibh8Xb/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Total Mileage:\u003c/strong> 542\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Total Wineries:\u003c/strong> 31\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Sips/Tastes:\u003c/strong> No idea\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Did we still like wine afterwards?\u003c/strong> You bet\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Are we still talking?\u003c/strong> Yes\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sounds like a success to me. And now we’re bringing Wine Bootcamp to Burgundy in early March. This time, though, we’ll both be the rookies and it’s significantly harder to lasso together an itinerary. I sure wish somebody had written that Wine Bootcamp article for Burgundy already. Hopefully this one for Sonoma, Napa and Mendocino Counties will be of use for you.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cheers!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cb>Head back to \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/134208/a-northern-california-wine-bootcamp-adventure\">Wine Bootcamp Central\u003c/a> for the full guide of wineries and eateries we visited.\u003c/b>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/134550/a-northern-california-wine-bootcamp-adventure-from-st-helena-to-san-francisco#charles-krug\">Charles Krug Winery\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/134550/a-northern-california-wine-bootcamp-adventure-from-st-helena-to-san-francisco#smith-madrone\">Smith-Madrone Vineyards\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/134550/a-northern-california-wine-bootcamp-adventure-from-st-helena-to-san-francisco#lunch\">Oakville Grocery\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/134550/a-northern-california-wine-bootcamp-adventure-from-st-helena-to-san-francisco#shafer\">Shafer Vineyards\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/134550/a-northern-california-wine-bootcamp-adventure-from-st-helena-to-san-francisco#far-niente\">Far Niente Winery\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003ciframe\n src='https://www.google.com/maps/d/u/0/embed?mid=1ONI_1j0NZr4gINICM4XI49EM0C7RGeCB&w=640&h=480'\n title='https://www.google.com/maps/d/u/0/embed?mid=1ONI_1j0NZr4gINICM4XI49EM0C7RGeCB&w=640&h=480'\n width='640'\n height='480'\n scrolling='no'\n frameborder='no'>\u003c/iframe>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca id=\"charles-krug\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Charles Krug Winery\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.google.com/maps/place/Charles+Krug+Winery/@38.518744,-122.480955,15z/data=!4m5!3m4!1s0x0:0x5ed38c326d8a3f5a!8m2!3d38.518744!4d-122.480955\">2800 Main St.\u003c/a>\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>St. Helena, CA 94574\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134660\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/CharlesKrug-vineyards-Greystone.jpg\" alt=\"Estate vines at Charles Krug Winery, looking at the Culinary Institute of America’s Greystone campus\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-134660\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/CharlesKrug-vineyards-Greystone.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/CharlesKrug-vineyards-Greystone-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/CharlesKrug-vineyards-Greystone-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/CharlesKrug-vineyards-Greystone-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/CharlesKrug-vineyards-Greystone-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/CharlesKrug-vineyards-Greystone-1200x900.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Estate vines at Charles Krug Winery, looking at the Culinary Institute of America’s Greystone campus \u003ccite>(Trevor Felch/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The trip’s earliest start and most rushed visit (with just one taste because of timing) came at one of California wine history’s true icons: \u003ca href=\"http://www.charleskrug.com\">Charles Krug\u003c/a>. Contrary to what most people think, THIS is actually the winery owned by the Mondavi family. Robert Mondavi Winery is now part of Constellation Brands. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You won’t hear much at Charles Krug about the infamous family split where brothers Peter and Robert had various disagreements about the direction of the winery, the style of a winery (with nitpicks like how Robert wanted all French oak) and how the winery’s money should be spent. After the split, Robert created his namesake winery further south towards Oakville and Peter ran Charles Krug.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Several Mondavi family members still live on the Charles Krug property, which stayed that name because its original owner (Charles Krug) wrote in the land grant (it was originally given to him as a wedding dowry) that it shall never change. Hence the confusion for many wine drinkers, myself included, how Charles Krug is the real Mondavi domain. Got it all? Yes, this family is one of the most famous and confusing in all of wine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134661\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/Charles-Krug-barrels.jpg\" alt=\"The signature burgundy painted barrels resting at Charles Krug Winery\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-134661\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/Charles-Krug-barrels.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/Charles-Krug-barrels-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/Charles-Krug-barrels-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/Charles-Krug-barrels-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/Charles-Krug-barrels-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/Charles-Krug-barrels-1200x900.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The signature burgundy painted barrels resting at Charles Krug Winery \u003ccite>(Trevor Felch/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Everywhere you look on the property across Highway 29 from the Culinary Institute of America Greystone complex is history and something majestic: gorgeous valley vistas, barrels with red stripes that are painted to look like they’re bleeding wine, and a striking Howard Backen redesigned carriage house that John fell in love with since he does lots of woodwork at his homes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I can’t vouch for the quality of all 50,000 cases the winery produces, but our one taste was a phenomenal 2015 'Generations’ Bordeaux blend.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Also consider:\u003c/b> \u003ca href=\"http://www.freemarkabbey.com\">Freemark Abbey\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.inglenook.com\">Inglenook\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.ackermanfamilyvineyards.com\">Ackerman Family Vineyards/Heritage House\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca id=\"smith-madrone\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Smith-Madrone Vineyards\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.google.com/maps/place/Smith-Madrone+Vineyards/@38.5322882,-122.549057,15z/data=!4m5!3m4!1s0x0:0x8c5e7f7cfbc3e671!8m2!3d38.5322882!4d-122.549057\">4022 Spring Mountain Rd.\u003c/a>\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>St. Helena, CA 94574\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134662\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/Smith-Madrone-Wines.jpg\" alt=\"Some of Smith-Madrone’s exceptional wines including a 2016 Chardonnay, 2013 Cook’s Flat Reserve and 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-134662\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/Smith-Madrone-Wines.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/Smith-Madrone-Wines-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/Smith-Madrone-Wines-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/Smith-Madrone-Wines-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/Smith-Madrone-Wines-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/Smith-Madrone-Wines-900x1200.jpg 900w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Some of Smith-Madrone’s exceptional wines including a 2016 Chardonnay, 2013 Cook’s Flat Reserve and 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon \u003ccite>(Trevor Felch/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Luckily, I had been to this rustic Spring Mountain legend once before, so I already knew how many twists and turns were coming up en route to stop 2 for the day. You \u003ci>will\u003c/i> get lost your first time going to \u003ca href=\"http://www.smithmadrone.com\">Smith Madrone\u003c/a>. This time, we weren’t lost, but we did get greeted by a giant fallen tree in the process of being removed, so there was some off-roading needed. Speaking of off-roading, assistant winemaker Sam Smith whisked us away almost immediately in an off-road four-wheeler and zoomed us all over the dry-farmed estate vineyards, through forests, by streams, and almost everywhere yielded panoramic valley views. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sam is the son of Stuart Smith, who founded the winery in 1971 and runs it with his brother Charles, who serves as the winemaker. Sam is also the most talented balancer of a wine glass while driving through potholes I have ever seen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134663\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/Smith-Madrone-exploring.jpg\" alt=\"John and Smith-Madrone Vineyard & Winery’s Assistant Winemaker Sam Smith discuss wine and off-road vehicles in the redwood forests of Spring Mountain\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-134663\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/Smith-Madrone-exploring.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/Smith-Madrone-exploring-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/Smith-Madrone-exploring-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/Smith-Madrone-exploring-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/Smith-Madrone-exploring-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/Smith-Madrone-exploring-900x1200.jpg 900w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">John and Smith-Madrone Vineyard & Winery’s Assistant Winemaker Sam Smith discuss wine and off-road vehicles in the redwood forests of Spring Mountain \u003ccite>(Trevor Felch/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>This is old Napa, where there is no glitz, the Cabernet Sauvignon still hovers around the $50 mark, and it’s one of three wineries still growing Riesling, which way back in the day was a primary grape of Napa Valley. Smith-Madrone’s Cook’s Flat Reserve is their answer to the Screaming Eagles of Napa Valley, with extensive layers and giant, rich red and black fruit notes. It is priced accordingly since the Smiths finally realized they needed to adapt a little bit to the Napa Valley of the 2010s.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When tourists and locals alike ask about \u003ci>the\u003c/i> Napa Valley winery to visit — you know, the secret one with gorgeous views, no pretention, excellent wine, no wine club hard sell, huge character — this is that winery.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>3 wines to try:\u003c/b> 2015 Riesling, 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon, 2013 Cook’s Flat Reserve\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Also consider:\u003c/b> \u003ca href=\"http://www.stonyhillvineyard.com\">Stony Hill\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.greenandred.com/\">Green & Red\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.tressabores.com\">Tres Sabores\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca id=\"lunch\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Lunch: \u003ca href=\"http://oakvillegrocery.com/?SID=0dd07f4f7569a623bff82ace209f3e98\">Oakville Grocery\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.google.com/maps/place/Oakville+Grocery/@38.4373272,-122.4029416,15z/data=!4m5!3m4!1s0x0:0x47087a7305951bc9!8m2!3d38.4373272!4d-122.4029416\">\u003ci>7856 St. Helena Hwy, Oakville\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>A Napa Valley daytime staple. On weekends, it’s Bay Bridge rush hour traffic-like packed. Luckily, on a Monday in early December we were almost alone. The bread for the sandwiches is shockingly pedestrian, so opt for the prepared salads and any dessert.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Also consider:\u003c/b> \u003ca href=\"http://www.lacalendamex.com\">La Calenda\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.thomaskeller.com/bouchonyountville\">Bouchon\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.redd-wood.com/\">Redd Wood\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca id=\"shafer\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Shafer Vineyards\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.google.com/maps/place/Shafer+Vineyards/@38.421021,-122.326365,15z/data=!4m5!3m4!1s0x0:0xf32e8bbbafb3a50b!8m2!3d38.421021!4d-122.326365\">6154 Silverado Trail\u003c/a>\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Napa, CA 94558\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134664\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/Shafer-cave.jpg\" alt=\"Barrels resting in Shafer Vineyards’ sprawling caves\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-134664\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/Shafer-cave.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/Shafer-cave-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/Shafer-cave-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/Shafer-cave-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/Shafer-cave-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/Shafer-cave-900x1200.jpg 900w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Barrels resting in Shafer Vineyards’ sprawling caves \u003ccite>(Trevor Felch/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>John figured out the “surprise winery” of the trip secretly long before seeing \u003ci>the\u003c/i> hillside. That hillside, nestled behind \u003ca href=\"http://shafervineyards.com/\">Shafer Vineyards\u003c/a> a little off the Silverado Trail in what is considered the Stags Leap District, is probably the most famous “hillside” in Napa Valley and thankfully just missed being struck by the 2017 fires, whose damage you can still clearly see further up the hill towards Atlas Peak. It’s the hillside of “Hillside Select”, one of Napa Valley’s definitive wines.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I had seen in John’s cellar spreadsheet that he had some Shafer, though it wasn’t Hillside Select, so I figured this would be a fun surprise. Somehow, he already knew it would be Shafer, perhaps because he might not have any other Napa Valley wines? Anyhow, what I didn’t know is that he and Meg’s mom had tried to visit Shafer before and failed since they couldn’t just walk in. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Reservation in hand, our host Andy Demsky asked if we were “winery toured out” and we pretty much were. But, when you’re at a place of Shafer’s renown, you must see what you can see. So we breezed through the gorgeous winery, saw winemaker Elias Fernandez in action doing some careful cleaning and sampling, then tasted what was easily one of the trip’s finest lineups.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134665\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/Shafer-wine-tasting.jpg\" alt=\"The celebrated Hillside Select (far right) and its excellent peers at Shafer Vineyards\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-134665\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/Shafer-wine-tasting.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/Shafer-wine-tasting-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/Shafer-wine-tasting-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/Shafer-wine-tasting-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/Shafer-wine-tasting-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/Shafer-wine-tasting-900x1200.jpg 900w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The celebrated Hillside Select (far right) and its excellent peers at Shafer Vineyards \u003ccite>(Trevor Felch/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Like at Peter Michael and Kosta Browne, those lofty Wine Spectator scores didn’t lie in this instance. Shafer is deservedly a Napa Valley legend, 30,000 cases strong, and really doing a fantastic job creating big wines that also boast excitement. One reason for that is the fun use of different oaks in the wine. Winery president Doug Shafer calls the different types of barrels “the spice rack” with so many unique options that can add a slightly new angle to high caliber grapes, like spices might work for Thomas Keller at The French Laundry. It was an eye-opening analogy to winemaking for us.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>3 wines to try:\u003c/b> 2015 One Point Five, 2015 Relentless, 2014 Hillside Select\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Also consider:\u003c/b> \u003ca href=\"http://www.chappellet.com\">Chappellet\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.robertsinskey.com/\">Robert Sinskey\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.frogsleap.com\">Frog’s Leap\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca id=\"far-niente\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Far Niente Winery\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.google.com/maps/place/Far+Niente+Winery/@38.4257839,-122.4031331,15z/data=!4m5!3m4!1s0x0:0xc635dcaf43c9e1db!8m2!3d38.4257839!4d-122.4031331\">1350 Acacia Dr.\u003c/a>\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Oakville, CA 94562\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134666\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/FarNiente-NobHill.jpg\" alt=\"Far Niente’s predecessor — a 1977 bottle of Nob Hill Cellars by Far Niente founder Gil Nickel who bought an apartment on Nob Hill in San Francisco with winemaking equipment, which started off his illustrious wine career\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-134666\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/FarNiente-NobHill.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/FarNiente-NobHill-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/FarNiente-NobHill-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/FarNiente-NobHill-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/FarNiente-NobHill-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/FarNiente-NobHill-900x1200.jpg 900w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Far Niente’s predecessor — a 1977 bottle of Nob Hill Cellars by Far Niente founder Gil Nickel who bought an apartment on Nob Hill in San Francisco with winemaking equipment, which started off his illustrious wine career \u003ccite>(Trevor Felch/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>At long last, we arrived at the final winery of the trip. Of course, we were a bit leisurely with the exceptional Shafer wines, so we joined our \u003ca href=\"http://farniente.com\">Far Niente\u003c/a> tour as they were strolling through the endless ornate barrel rooms and cellars under the estate. Yes, this was our one public tour of the trip and by now we kind of just wanted to experience a winery as a tourist.\u003cbr>\n\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cbr>\nAnd so we toured through Far Niente’s own Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon, including a regal 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon which was our oldest vintage of the trip, and Far Niente’s sibling EnRoute Pinot Noir from Russian River Valley, déjà vu from our first day of the trip. Not surprisingly, I was the only guest taking notes, something that reminded me that while it was a Monday work assignment for me, Napa Valley for these other guests from the likes of Miami and Orange County was a truly special vacation experience. They wanted that wine. They wanted the spectacular gardens and winery luxury, something Far Niente does particularly well at its Oakville estate. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Though it dates back to 1885 when a forty-niner founded the estate, Far Niente fell into disrepair because of Prohibition, but was resuscitated by the late Oklahoma based nursery owner (and later vintner) Gil Nickel. Hence, that’s why the gardens and exteriors of the property are particularly spectacular at this winery where landscape and wine were intertwined in the DNA of its longtime proprietor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We closed with a sip of our only sweet wine of the trip, the Dolce late harvest Sauternes style Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc sourced from the southern edge of the Napa Valley. Fittingly, it was our final sip of the trip and a sweet way to send us back to the big city.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>3 wines to try:\u003c/b> 2012 Dolce, 2016 EnRoute Pinot Noir “Les Pommiers,” 2016 estate Cabernet Sauvignon (and 2011 and 2009 if you can find them)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Also consider:\u003c/b> \u003ca href=\"http://www.josephphelps.com\">Joseph Phelps\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://corison.com\">Corison\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.hesscollection.com\">Hess Collection\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Our trip prelude dinner was at the intimate Potrero Flats wine geek favorite (and a worthy destination for delicious seasonal cooking) \u003ca href=\"http://themorris-sf.com\">The Morris\u003c/a> (\u003ca href=\"http://www.google.com/maps/place/The+Morris/@37.7629657,-122.4085607,15z/data=!4m5!3m4!1s0x0:0xc9872041746a8751!8m2!3d37.7629657!4d-122.4085607\">\u003cem>2501 Mariposa St., San Francisco\u003c/em>\u003c/a>).\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>After Far Niente and a delightful sluggish rush hour trip across the Bay Bridge back to San Francisco, we closed with \u003ca href=\"http://biale.com\">Robert Biale\u003c/a> Zinfandel, Negronis, and the indulgent jazz club/supper club delight that is \u003ca href=\"http://www.bixrestaurant.com/\">Bix\u003c/a> (\u003ca href=\"http://www.google.com/maps/place/Bix/@37.7968728,-122.4029372,15z/data=!4m5!3m4!1s0x0:0xcba0a2e0fa5d9191!8m2!3d37.7968728!4d-122.4029372\">\u003cem>56 Gold St., San Francisco\u003c/em>\u003c/a>) near Jackson Square. It was indeed a fitting celebration to celebrate a special week.\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Total Mileage:\u003c/strong> 542\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Total Wineries:\u003c/strong> 31\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Sips/Tastes:\u003c/strong> No idea\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Did we still like wine afterwards?\u003c/strong> You bet\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Are we still talking?\u003c/strong> Yes\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sounds like a success to me. And now we’re bringing Wine Bootcamp to Burgundy in early March. This time, though, we’ll both be the rookies and it’s significantly harder to lasso together an itinerary. I sure wish somebody had written that Wine Bootcamp article for Burgundy already. Hopefully this one for Sonoma, Napa and Mendocino Counties will be of use for you.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cheers!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"info": "Our flagship program, helmed by Kai Ryssdal, examines what the day in money delivered, through stories, conversations, newsworthy numbers and more. Updated Monday through Friday at about 3:30 p.m. PT.",
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"info": "The MindShift podcast explores the innovations in education that are shaping how kids learn. Hosts Ki Sung and Katrina Schwartz introduce listeners to educators, researchers, parents and students who are developing effective ways to improve how kids learn. We cover topics like how fed-up administrators are developing surprising tactics to deal with classroom disruptions; how listening to podcasts are helping kids develop reading skills; the consequences of overparenting; and why interdisciplinary learning can engage students on all ends of the traditional achievement spectrum. This podcast is part of the MindShift education site, a division of KQED News. KQED is an NPR/PBS member station based in San Francisco. You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>",
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"title": "Selected Shorts",
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"soldout": {
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"title": "SOLD OUT: Rethinking Housing in America",
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"info": "Rightnowish digs into life in the Bay Area right now… ish. Journalist Pendarvis Harshaw takes us to galleries painted on the sides of liquor stores in West Oakland. We'll dance in warehouses in the Bayview, make smoothies with kids in South Berkeley, and listen to classical music in a 1984 Cutlass Supreme in Richmond. Every week, Pen talks to movers and shakers about how the Bay Area shapes what they create, and how they shape the place we call home.",
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