Not surprisingly, fish and seafood are the heart and soul of both menus. Sure, both restaurants have a burger (and Sam’s has a fried chicken sandwich and New York steak), but let’s not get carried away about what these restaurants are really all about.

Tuna poke at Sam's Anchor Cafe (Trevor Felch)

Within that fish and seafood theme, there are a few differences between the two. Both serve a seafood stew ($26 at Tony’s; $34 at Sam’s), but only Sam’s explicitly considers theirs’ a “cioppino”. Sam’s has a tuna poke and fish ceviche (both $16) from the raw bar, while Tony’s has a marinated seafood plate ($14) and peel & eat Gulf shrimp ($18).

Dungeness crab Louie at Sam's Anchor Cafe (Trevor Felch)

Sam’s certainly has a few playful items that reflect the laid-back, weekend-every day vibe of the outdoor deck. The $55 “Sunny and 70” is a drink bowl and a pile of Old Bay dusted fries that maybe can be considered a light meal. A $25 “hamburger and Champagne” combination isn’t necessarily a natural pairing but seems exactly like what the captains of the small yachts that tie up at Sam’s dock will want after a voyage.

Meanwhile, Tony’s has a few more ambitious plates that show the talent of chef Matt Shapiro. Prior to joining Hog Island in 2014, the Queens, New York native cooked at some of the Mission’s most acclaimed restaurants (Wise Sons, Walzwerk, the now-closed Schmidt’s) and it’s easy for diners to see how his careful touch subtly enhances classic waterfront preparations, like a puffy tempura-like batter for the cod and chips ($21) or a touch of anchovy to liven up linguine and clams ($22).

Linguine and clams 'bagna cauda' at Tony's Seafood (Trevor Felch)

Sam’s traffics more in the sandwich realm (rock fish sandwich for $19; chilled Maine lobster roll for $27), while Tony’s boasts a fried oyster po’boy ($17). Meanwhile, Tony’s also has Hog Island’s beloved grilled oysters coated in BBQ sauce or a jalapeño butter (four for $16).

The biggest similarity food-wise between the two is that both sure love offering crab in various forms. At Sam’s, there’s a crab toast with smashed avocado ($21); a Sam’s Louie’s Louie salad ($30); and a crab cake starter ($19). Tony’s has an irresistible crab and Mornay gratinée ($19) and a Dungeness crab sandwich with housemade mayonnaise ($21).

Seafood stew with shellfish-saffron broth at Tony's Seafood (Trevor Felch)

Alaskan halibut with grapefruit and endive at Tony's Seafood (Trevor Felch)

Both restaurants also offer noteworthy fresh fish preparations, like sand dabs with mussels and sherry cream at Sam’s ($28) or halibut surrounded by grapefruit and endive spears or black cod with Pinot Noir-braised chicories at Tony’s (these daily specials change often but usually are $28.).

For dessert, Sam’s leans towards Americana classics like butterscotch pudding, fried banana splits and brownie sundaes (all $8). Dessert at Tony’s is all about swirls of Straus Family Creamery soft serve ($5) with various toppings like extra virgin olive oil and sea salt ($2), or aged balsamico ($3). Not only is the soft serve always a big hit, but the creamery’s founder/CEO, Albert Straus, always dines at Tony’s on Friday nights, so they better include the beloved product from one of their most influential regulars!

Straus Family Creamery soft serve with olive oil and pistachios (Trevor Felch)

Amidst the sweeping Bay Area changes, it’s as refreshing as a San Francisco Bay breeze to see that this pair of local waterfront legends are in good hands with new, caring owners. Amidst all of the rent increases and grueling traffic jams, a road trip to Tomales Bay or a ferry ride to Tiburon are reminders of what a special place the Bay Area still is. Raise a glass — and an oyster — to another 170 years for Sam’s Anchor Cafe and Tony’s.

Tony's Seafood Restaurant
18863 Shoreline Hwy, Marshall
Hours: 5-8pm Thurs, 11:30am-8pm Fri-Sun

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Raise a Glass (and an Oyster) to Two Newly Renovated North Bay Waterfront Classics