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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/nua_ext-791427.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I have a love/hate relationship with wine bars.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On the one hand, I love a good one. Give me a glass of something silky and bold, a plate of nibbles, and a comfy seat where I don't have to read lips to hold a conversation, and I'm as happy as a paparazzo outside the LA courthouse.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But these days, the term \"wine bar\" is bandied about so frequently, it's lost its meaning. Too often it's just a marketing ploy to encourage folks to frequent the bar of a restaurant that doesn't have a liquor license.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So when \u003ca href=\"http://www.nuasf.com\">\u003cstrong>Nua\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> opened as a restaurant and wine bar, I was suspicious. And rightfully so: though the wine list is long and esoteric, it's more restaurant than wine bar (and they've since dropped the term from their website). But I've forgiven them for hopping on the bandwagon because the food is utterly superb.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chef Anna Bautista takes her cues from the Mediterranean, hopscotching from Provence to Andalucia to Italy, and the laidback charm those places are famous for has rubbed off on the four-month-old restaurant. On two of our visits, we made a reservation at the last minute -- I'm talking 4:30 pm on Saturday for a 7:30 table that night -- and on the third we changed the time. (Twice. What can I say? I'm indecisive.) Every time they were accommodating, and even sat us early.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/nua_int-707506.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nua is clearly cultivating a neighborhood vibe, and when the weather permits, they fling open the front windows accordion-style to better channel the energy of their North Beach surroundings. The comfortable interior is what I'd call retro-modern, with color-blocked orange and cream leather banquettes, and shades of cool blue, orange, and honey-brown throughout. The staff is friendly, they split plates and glasses of wine without being asked if they know you plan to share, and they're knowledgeable about the wine list. On each visit, we enjoyed unfamiliar wines, like a Spanish Crianza from Bierzo to a white wine from Greece. My only quibble with the wine service is that the pours were on the small side our first two visits, but by the third they'd normalized. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The food, however, is outstanding, and it's why Nua has become my new favorite restaurant. Each meal began with a small plate of foccacia bread and a pool of golden-green olive oil. The menu is loosely divided into small and large plates so you can go the appetizer-entree route, or graze on a series of small plates (though the waitstaff doesn't explicitly advertise that option). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/nua_sardines-737526.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We ordered the sardines escabeche ($10) twice. Two meaty slabs of fish were arranged on a landscape of crisp Blue Lake green beans, miniature cauliflower florets, sweet pickled shallots, and currants. The sardines tasted light and fresh, and the dish teetered pleasantly between crisp and soft, tart and sweet, surf and earth. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/nua_cauli-758730.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We also ordered the side of roasted cauliflower with capers, pine nuts, and parsley ($5) each time. If you aren't a cauliflower fan, a bowl of this will change your mind. Roasting caramelizes and crisps up the tiny white florets, and the zesty dressing of olive oil, capers, and parsley makes them positively addictive.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/nua_salad-717581.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\"> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Initially I balked at ordering the endive salad with white peaches, blue cheese, and hazelnuts ($9); it just sounded humdrum. But one bite changed my mind. The peaches were Platonic examples of their species -- sweet, juicy, floral, and full-flavored. There was just enough champagne-tarragon vinaigrette to match the bracing blue cheese and bitter endive.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/nua_piquillo-782377.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The piquillo peppers ($9) we ordered on visit two were stuffed with a whipped salt cod and potato brandade, flash-fried, and served with a sauce of garlic, shallots, and parsley as well as some frilly frisee fronds. They were good, but they didn't get my tail wagging as much as other things did. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Parisian herbed gnocchi ($14) melted in my mouth, and the baby artichokes and mushrooms created an earthy stew around them. The best part about the gambas al ajillo ($11) weren't the plump shrimp, but the fiery broth they were bathed in. When the prawns were gone, I used the foccacia fingers to soak up the robust juices. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Housemade merquez sausage offset with a cucumber, fennel, and tomato salad ($13) tempted us on the first visit, and I loved the contrast of hot and cold layered within the dish. But the veal and pork albondigas ($8) may have edged it out as my favorite meat dish. The meatballs were soft but held their shape, and the flavor was so clean and subtle that I could almost taste the milk fed to the little calf. The almond bread sauce was a revelation -- no tomato to strongarm the delicate morsels.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/nua_albondigas-739397.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like the small plates, entrees are lighter than they are heavy, and bursting with flavor. A recent seafood risotto with corn ($20) tasted of summer, while the quail\u003cbr>was accented with a plucky plum sauce and crisp green beans. Though portions were generous, neither left us feeling like we'd overeaten.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The blueberry fromage blanc tart ($7.50) was a light, fresh way to end the meal, but it was the butterscotch pot de creme ($7.50) we found ourselves oohing and aahing over time after time. Unlike its beloved Zuni cousin, this is a plain pot de creme, flecked with vanilla and covered in a layer of rich, supple butterscotch sauce. The creaminess of the custard is the perfect canvas for sweet butterscotch, though they ought to think carefully about the cookies served alongside. The almond cookie complimented the butterscotch beautifully, but the rich chocolate brownie battled the sweeter pot de creme all the way.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/nua_pot-798099.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At Nua, the food isn't flagrantly experimental, but it is flawless. The wine list is full of surprises, the staff is easy-going, and the atmosphere is pleasant. No matter what you call it, that's my favorite kind of place. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Note: This review was based on 3 anonymous visits.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nua\u003cbr>550 Green Street at Columbus\u003cbr>San Francisco\u003cbr>(415) 433-4000\u003cbr>Open 7 nights a week\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chef Anna Bautista takes her cues from the Mediterranean, hopscotching from Provence to Andalucia to Italy, and the laidback charm those places are famous for has rubbed off on the four-month-old restaurant. On two of our visits, we made a reservation at the last minute -- I'm talking 4:30 pm on Saturday for a 7:30 table that night -- and on the third we changed the time. (Twice. What can I say? I'm indecisive.) Every time they were accommodating, and even sat us early.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/nua_int-707506.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nua is clearly cultivating a neighborhood vibe, and when the weather permits, they fling open the front windows accordion-style to better channel the energy of their North Beach surroundings. The comfortable interior is what I'd call retro-modern, with color-blocked orange and cream leather banquettes, and shades of cool blue, orange, and honey-brown throughout. The staff is friendly, they split plates and glasses of wine without being asked if they know you plan to share, and they're knowledgeable about the wine list. On each visit, we enjoyed unfamiliar wines, like a Spanish Crianza from Bierzo to a white wine from Greece. My only quibble with the wine service is that the pours were on the small side our first two visits, but by the third they'd normalized. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The food, however, is outstanding, and it's why Nua has become my new favorite restaurant. Each meal began with a small plate of foccacia bread and a pool of golden-green olive oil. The menu is loosely divided into small and large plates so you can go the appetizer-entree route, or graze on a series of small plates (though the waitstaff doesn't explicitly advertise that option). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/nua_sardines-737526.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We ordered the sardines escabeche ($10) twice. Two meaty slabs of fish were arranged on a landscape of crisp Blue Lake green beans, miniature cauliflower florets, sweet pickled shallots, and currants. The sardines tasted light and fresh, and the dish teetered pleasantly between crisp and soft, tart and sweet, surf and earth. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/nua_cauli-758730.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We also ordered the side of roasted cauliflower with capers, pine nuts, and parsley ($5) each time. If you aren't a cauliflower fan, a bowl of this will change your mind. Roasting caramelizes and crisps up the tiny white florets, and the zesty dressing of olive oil, capers, and parsley makes them positively addictive.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/nua_salad-717581.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\"> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Initially I balked at ordering the endive salad with white peaches, blue cheese, and hazelnuts ($9); it just sounded humdrum. But one bite changed my mind. The peaches were Platonic examples of their species -- sweet, juicy, floral, and full-flavored. There was just enough champagne-tarragon vinaigrette to match the bracing blue cheese and bitter endive.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/nua_piquillo-782377.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The piquillo peppers ($9) we ordered on visit two were stuffed with a whipped salt cod and potato brandade, flash-fried, and served with a sauce of garlic, shallots, and parsley as well as some frilly frisee fronds. They were good, but they didn't get my tail wagging as much as other things did. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Parisian herbed gnocchi ($14) melted in my mouth, and the baby artichokes and mushrooms created an earthy stew around them. The best part about the gambas al ajillo ($11) weren't the plump shrimp, but the fiery broth they were bathed in. When the prawns were gone, I used the foccacia fingers to soak up the robust juices. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Housemade merquez sausage offset with a cucumber, fennel, and tomato salad ($13) tempted us on the first visit, and I loved the contrast of hot and cold layered within the dish. But the veal and pork albondigas ($8) may have edged it out as my favorite meat dish. The meatballs were soft but held their shape, and the flavor was so clean and subtle that I could almost taste the milk fed to the little calf. The almond bread sauce was a revelation -- no tomato to strongarm the delicate morsels.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/nua_albondigas-739397.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like the small plates, entrees are lighter than they are heavy, and bursting with flavor. A recent seafood risotto with corn ($20) tasted of summer, while the quail\u003cbr>was accented with a plucky plum sauce and crisp green beans. Though portions were generous, neither left us feeling like we'd overeaten.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The blueberry fromage blanc tart ($7.50) was a light, fresh way to end the meal, but it was the butterscotch pot de creme ($7.50) we found ourselves oohing and aahing over time after time. Unlike its beloved Zuni cousin, this is a plain pot de creme, flecked with vanilla and covered in a layer of rich, supple butterscotch sauce. The creaminess of the custard is the perfect canvas for sweet butterscotch, though they ought to think carefully about the cookies served alongside. The almond cookie complimented the butterscotch beautifully, but the rich chocolate brownie battled the sweeter pot de creme all the way.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/nua_pot-798099.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At Nua, the food isn't flagrantly experimental, but it is flawless. The wine list is full of surprises, the staff is easy-going, and the atmosphere is pleasant. No matter what you call it, that's my favorite kind of place. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Note: This review was based on 3 anonymous visits.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nua\u003cbr>550 Green Street at Columbus\u003cbr>San Francisco\u003cbr>(415) 433-4000\u003cbr>Open 7 nights a week\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/peppers-739262.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/peppers-739255.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>From the world of food writing, only a scant cup's worth of articles slip into my unconscious and remain there year after year. Sometimes they're so indelibly imprinted that I need no reminding they are there; it still smarts to think about \u003ca href=\"http://travel2.nytimes.com/2005/11/06/style/tmagazine/t_l_2192_2194_talk_tyranny_.html?ex=1184817600&en=85302ba4d77d8260&ei=5070\">\u003cstrong>Daniel Patterson's declaration\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> in the New York Times that culinary creativity was all but dead in Northern California, and I have \u003ca href=\"http://www.powells.com/biblio/18-1400041201-0\">\u003cstrong>Bill Buford and the New Yorker\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> to thank every time I look mournfully at my pot of pasta water knowing that, unless I boil batch after successive batch of noodles in it and accumulate all that lovely starch, I will never produce anything as good as they do at Babbo. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Other times, the things I read become stowaways in the deserted cargo hold of my mind. Just like I didn't know I remembered all the lyrics to Xanadu until my sister bought me the DVD last year, I hadn't the foggiest notion just how much my gray matter had absorbed of \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Feeding-Yen-Savoring-Specialties-Kansas/dp/product-description/0375759964\">\u003cstrong>Calvin Trillin's\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> ode to pimientos de Padron until I spotted a bag of the knobby green peppers at the farmers' market a few weeks ago. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In an instant, Trillin's words were dislodged much in the way that \u003ca href=\"http://movies.aol.com/movie/ratatouille/25522/photos/ratatouille-anton-ego-is-a-dour-humorless-food-critic-whose-reviews-can-make/1889413\">\u003cstrong>Anton Ego's first bite of ratatouille\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> transported him years into the past. I felt some unknown force take over my arms and command them to reach forward, tossing bag after bag of bite-sized peppers into my carryall. Despite never once having enjoyed them late at night in a tapas bar in Spain, I sensed the sky darken to the purple of nighttime, and a warm summer breeze rustled past, carrying with it the faint music of espanol. I looked down, surprised not to see a glass of sherry in my hand.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What makes these \u003ca href=\"http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?file=/chronicle/archive/2002/08/14/FD154219.DTL\">\u003cstrong>humble peppers\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> so magical? Well, biting into one is always a surprise; it could be sweet and nutty, or fiery hot. Only one in a dozen packs a punch, but you never know which one you've got until it's too late. They're also hard to find. In 1997, when \u003ca href=\"http://www.happyquailfarms.com/padrones.html\">\u003cstrong>Happy Quail Farms\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> started selling them, they were the only grower in the country. They're still the only farm in the Bay Area that cultivates them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I got home, I fried the pimientos de Padron up in olive oil, tossed on a few generous pinches of salt, and bit in to one, still hot from the pan. A tingling heat flashed across my tongue -- the kind that comes from the power of capsaicin, not flame. I went in for another. The next few were mild, but it was the elusive spicy ones that kept me coming back, bite after bite. \u003cbr>\u003cstrong>\u003cbr>Fried Pimientos de Padron\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ingredients:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>olive oil\u003cbr>1 bag pimientos de Padron\u003cbr>coarse salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preparation:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Cover the bottom of a skillet with olive oil and heat over medium-high until very hot.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Toss the peppers in whole. Shake the pan occasionally. Once small black and gray blisters appear (about 2-4 minutes in) they are done. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Pour them onto a plate, sprinkle with plenty of coarse salt to taste, and serve hot.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Serves 2-4 as a starter\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/peppers-739262.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/peppers-739255.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>From the world of food writing, only a scant cup's worth of articles slip into my unconscious and remain there year after year. Sometimes they're so indelibly imprinted that I need no reminding they are there; it still smarts to think about \u003ca href=\"http://travel2.nytimes.com/2005/11/06/style/tmagazine/t_l_2192_2194_talk_tyranny_.html?ex=1184817600&en=85302ba4d77d8260&ei=5070\">\u003cstrong>Daniel Patterson's declaration\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> in the New York Times that culinary creativity was all but dead in Northern California, and I have \u003ca href=\"http://www.powells.com/biblio/18-1400041201-0\">\u003cstrong>Bill Buford and the New Yorker\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> to thank every time I look mournfully at my pot of pasta water knowing that, unless I boil batch after successive batch of noodles in it and accumulate all that lovely starch, I will never produce anything as good as they do at Babbo. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Other times, the things I read become stowaways in the deserted cargo hold of my mind. Just like I didn't know I remembered all the lyrics to Xanadu until my sister bought me the DVD last year, I hadn't the foggiest notion just how much my gray matter had absorbed of \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Feeding-Yen-Savoring-Specialties-Kansas/dp/product-description/0375759964\">\u003cstrong>Calvin Trillin's\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> ode to pimientos de Padron until I spotted a bag of the knobby green peppers at the farmers' market a few weeks ago. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In an instant, Trillin's words were dislodged much in the way that \u003ca href=\"http://movies.aol.com/movie/ratatouille/25522/photos/ratatouille-anton-ego-is-a-dour-humorless-food-critic-whose-reviews-can-make/1889413\">\u003cstrong>Anton Ego's first bite of ratatouille\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> transported him years into the past. I felt some unknown force take over my arms and command them to reach forward, tossing bag after bag of bite-sized peppers into my carryall. Despite never once having enjoyed them late at night in a tapas bar in Spain, I sensed the sky darken to the purple of nighttime, and a warm summer breeze rustled past, carrying with it the faint music of espanol. I looked down, surprised not to see a glass of sherry in my hand.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What makes these \u003ca href=\"http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?file=/chronicle/archive/2002/08/14/FD154219.DTL\">\u003cstrong>humble peppers\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> so magical? Well, biting into one is always a surprise; it could be sweet and nutty, or fiery hot. Only one in a dozen packs a punch, but you never know which one you've got until it's too late. They're also hard to find. In 1997, when \u003ca href=\"http://www.happyquailfarms.com/padrones.html\">\u003cstrong>Happy Quail Farms\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> started selling them, they were the only grower in the country. They're still the only farm in the Bay Area that cultivates them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I got home, I fried the pimientos de Padron up in olive oil, tossed on a few generous pinches of salt, and bit in to one, still hot from the pan. A tingling heat flashed across my tongue -- the kind that comes from the power of capsaicin, not flame. I went in for another. The next few were mild, but it was the elusive spicy ones that kept me coming back, bite after bite. \u003cbr>\u003cstrong>\u003cbr>Fried Pimientos de Padron\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ingredients:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>olive oil\u003cbr>1 bag pimientos de Padron\u003cbr>coarse salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preparation:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Cover the bottom of a skillet with olive oil and heat over medium-high until very hot.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Toss the peppers in whole. Shake the pan occasionally. Once small black and gray blisters appear (about 2-4 minutes in) they are done. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Pour them onto a plate, sprinkle with plenty of coarse salt to taste, and serve hot.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Serves 2-4 as a starter\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Salumi Stars at Bar Bambino",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/bb-709367.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/bb-709364.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The thing that struck me speechless was the salumi.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I know what you're thinking. \"Salumi?\" you're thinking. \"That is so, like, 2006.\" Maybe. But when it's as good as it is at \u003ca href=\"http://www.barbambino.com\">Bar Bambino\u003c/a>, it never goes out of style.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The small salumi plate ($9.50) was the first thing my boyfriend and I settled on during our inaugural meal at Bar Bambino. The selections, which change daily, were chosen for us by Alex Potter, Bar Bambino's salumi guy. He and his batons of porcine goodness occupy a small corner of the main dining room, just to the right of the bar, where he works feverishly to keep up with the plates that circle 'round and 'round the room.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/salumi-764517.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/salumi-764515.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Clad in an impeccable white chef's coat, Alex himself delivered a wooden tray to our table that glistened with creamy pork fat. It was stacked five rows deep with three kinds of housemade salame as well as prosciutto and pancetta. He walked us through each one so that there was no doubt what we were eating -- an oversight too many good restaurants make.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"This is the ciauscolo,\" he said, pointing to the one farthest from me. As owner Christopher Losa explained via email, ciauscolo comes from \u003ca href=\"http://www.le-marche.com/\">the Marche region of Italy\u003c/a>, just south of Emilia-Romagna on the eastern seaboard. \"Ours is done in a bit firmer form than most (it's traditional in the Marche to have ciauscolo spreadable, not unlike French rillettes) because I like to have the purity of the meat flavors and seasonings be fully accessible and not competing with bread,\" he wrote. Bar Bambino flavors their version with garlic and allspice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/salumicloseup-779540.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/salumicloseup-779538.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Next there was a salame toscano, made with red wine and black peppercorns, and a finocchiona, distinguished by fennel seeds, lavender, and other aromatic herbs. I picked up a sliver and held it up to the light. It was sliced so whisper thin, I could have read the menu through it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We happily munched our way around the plate, letting slices of barely crisped pancetta melt on our tongues and fighting over the last slice of finocchiona. Christopher says that all of Bar Bambino's own salame is made from Duroc pork that is raised naturally in Iowa. \"But we recently found a Duroc-mix locally (Sonoma) that our next batches will be from. I'm excited to see how the local pig fairs [sic] from a taste/consistency perspective.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In addition to Bar Bambino's housemade salumi, all of which is made in a curing room in Geyserville, Christopher offers a sopressata from \u003ca href=\"http://www.salumeriabiellese.com/\">Salumeria Biellese\u003c/a>, a New York-based artisan producer that's been around since the roaring twenties, and plans to expand his selection by offering goodies from other like-minded producers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/bbinside-731887.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/bbinside-731883.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I am an avid supporter of the renaissance in cured meat artistry that is occurring locally and I want to offer the best of Italian-style cured meats that we can source,\" he continued. \"Just as I can't make the best wine, cheese or bread to offer my customers, I know that somebody can do more than we can alone.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My boyfriend and I enjoyed the rest of our meal equally well, from the \"al ginepro\" bruschetta ($8.00) -- creamy chunks of chicken liver enlivened by a sprinkling of fleur de sel -- to the polpette ($14.75), meatballs in a light sauce of tomatoes, onions, and chard. My only real complaint was the chintzy wine pours (I noticed punier than normal glasses at \u003ca href=\"http://www.nuasf.com\">Nua\u003c/a>, too -- a disturbing new trend?). As annoying as it is to pay good money for a Lilliputian glass of vino, it's even more frustrating to be constantly waving down your server.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the meal was lovely, and the salumi some of the best in the city. This little piggie cried \"whee, whee, whee\" all the way home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bar Bambino\u003cbr>2931 16th Street\u003cbr>San Francisco\u003cbr>(415) 701-VINO\u003cbr>Open for lunch and dinner Tuesday-Sunday\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/bb-709367.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/bb-709364.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The thing that struck me speechless was the salumi.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I know what you're thinking. \"Salumi?\" you're thinking. \"That is so, like, 2006.\" Maybe. But when it's as good as it is at \u003ca href=\"http://www.barbambino.com\">Bar Bambino\u003c/a>, it never goes out of style.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The small salumi plate ($9.50) was the first thing my boyfriend and I settled on during our inaugural meal at Bar Bambino. The selections, which change daily, were chosen for us by Alex Potter, Bar Bambino's salumi guy. He and his batons of porcine goodness occupy a small corner of the main dining room, just to the right of the bar, where he works feverishly to keep up with the plates that circle 'round and 'round the room.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/salumi-764517.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/salumi-764515.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Clad in an impeccable white chef's coat, Alex himself delivered a wooden tray to our table that glistened with creamy pork fat. It was stacked five rows deep with three kinds of housemade salame as well as prosciutto and pancetta. He walked us through each one so that there was no doubt what we were eating -- an oversight too many good restaurants make.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"This is the ciauscolo,\" he said, pointing to the one farthest from me. As owner Christopher Losa explained via email, ciauscolo comes from \u003ca href=\"http://www.le-marche.com/\">the Marche region of Italy\u003c/a>, just south of Emilia-Romagna on the eastern seaboard. \"Ours is done in a bit firmer form than most (it's traditional in the Marche to have ciauscolo spreadable, not unlike French rillettes) because I like to have the purity of the meat flavors and seasonings be fully accessible and not competing with bread,\" he wrote. Bar Bambino flavors their version with garlic and allspice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/salumicloseup-779540.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/salumicloseup-779538.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Next there was a salame toscano, made with red wine and black peppercorns, and a finocchiona, distinguished by fennel seeds, lavender, and other aromatic herbs. I picked up a sliver and held it up to the light. It was sliced so whisper thin, I could have read the menu through it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We happily munched our way around the plate, letting slices of barely crisped pancetta melt on our tongues and fighting over the last slice of finocchiona. Christopher says that all of Bar Bambino's own salame is made from Duroc pork that is raised naturally in Iowa. \"But we recently found a Duroc-mix locally (Sonoma) that our next batches will be from. I'm excited to see how the local pig fairs [sic] from a taste/consistency perspective.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In addition to Bar Bambino's housemade salumi, all of which is made in a curing room in Geyserville, Christopher offers a sopressata from \u003ca href=\"http://www.salumeriabiellese.com/\">Salumeria Biellese\u003c/a>, a New York-based artisan producer that's been around since the roaring twenties, and plans to expand his selection by offering goodies from other like-minded producers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/bbinside-731887.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/bbinside-731883.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I am an avid supporter of the renaissance in cured meat artistry that is occurring locally and I want to offer the best of Italian-style cured meats that we can source,\" he continued. \"Just as I can't make the best wine, cheese or bread to offer my customers, I know that somebody can do more than we can alone.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My boyfriend and I enjoyed the rest of our meal equally well, from the \"al ginepro\" bruschetta ($8.00) -- creamy chunks of chicken liver enlivened by a sprinkling of fleur de sel -- to the polpette ($14.75), meatballs in a light sauce of tomatoes, onions, and chard. My only real complaint was the chintzy wine pours (I noticed punier than normal glasses at \u003ca href=\"http://www.nuasf.com\">Nua\u003c/a>, too -- a disturbing new trend?). As annoying as it is to pay good money for a Lilliputian glass of vino, it's even more frustrating to be constantly waving down your server.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the meal was lovely, and the salumi some of the best in the city. This little piggie cried \"whee, whee, whee\" all the way home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bar Bambino\u003cbr>2931 16th Street\u003cbr>San Francisco\u003cbr>(415) 701-VINO\u003cbr>Open for lunch and dinner Tuesday-Sunday\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/bbq_chips-749704.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/bbq_chips-749702.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I have always been a snacker. When I was a kid, I preferred white bread spread with cold butter and folded in half, or an \u003ca href=\"http://www.littledebbie.com/products/OatmealPies.asp\">oatmeal creme pie\u003c/a>. In high school, my snack varied according to whether or not I was on a diet; when I was, I munched \u003ca href=\"http://www.nabiscoworld.com/brands/brandlist.aspx?SiteId=1&CatalogType=1&BrandKey=wheatthins&BrandLink=/wheatthins/&BrandId=92&PageNo=1\">Wheat Thins\u003c/a> and grapes, and when I wasn't, I was partial to eating ice cream cakes right out of the box. Regardless of the menu, though, I always had a snack between lunch and dinner.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now that I am older and my metabolism no longer operates at the speed of light, I am constantly looking for healthy alternatives. I've tried foregoing the afternoon snack altogether, but it's impossible. Like a newborn baby, I simply cannot go for more than a few hours without eating. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Over the years, I've thought a lot about what constitutes the perfect snack. I've whittled down the list to four key components:\u003cbr>1. Tastes great.\u003cbr>2. Fills you up.\u003cbr>3. Takes a long time to eat.\u003cbr>4. Salty, not sweet.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Let's examine these in reverse order. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Salty, not sweet. This criterion is self-explanatory. It just comes down to personal choice. If you want to get phreaked on a sugar high at three o'clock in the afternoon, knock yourself out.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Takes a long time to eat. I have read time and again that it takes 20 minutes for my brain to realize that my belly has had enough to eat. On top of that, I'm a supersonic eater. All together, that means that if my snack is a string cheese, it's gone quicker than you can say mozzarella. When that happens, I have a choice: I can either spend the next 19 minutes listening to my tummy buckle and howl, or plant myself in front of the fridge and desperately shovel in anything that isn't stuck to the shelf. That's why it's crucial that the snack eating itself can last a long time. That might mean a snack with lots of individual parts (popcorn) or one that demands constant reassembly (cheese and crackers). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fills you up. The whole point of the snack in the first place is to keep me out of the kitchen until dinnertime, so it's no good eating a handful of carrots or grapes (see also: face-stuffing fridge scenario, above). On the advice of my personal trainer, I started working in some fat or protein, and that helps a snack stick with me. So does eating triple-digit calories. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tastes great. This is a snack's most important quality. Healthy eating is all too often a sacrifice. Either you eat something delicious, but in such small quantities that it wouldn't satisfy an \u003ca href=\"http://perezhilton.com/topics/nicole_richie/nicole_richie_enters_rehab_20070522.php\">anorexic celebutante\u003c/a>, or you eat a lot of something that tastes like salted cardboard, minus the salt. Since I'm a girl who likes to have my cake and eat it too, when I find something tasty that doesn't increase the likelihood that my thighs will be assigned their own zip code, I'm in heaven. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/3bags-703294.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/3bags-703292.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That's why I was so delighted to discover \u003ca href=\"http://popchips.com/\">popchips\u003c/a>, a brand new chippy snack that is popped rather than fried or baked. It meets all of my criteria and then some. They start with potatoes, organic white corn, or brown rice and apply heat and pressure to \"pop\" the chips without any oil. The crunchy nibbles come in nine flavors like Parmesan garlic (potato), cheddar (corn), and sea salt (rice). Each bag is a good solid serving, enough so that I don't have to resort to desperate measures like pouring the crumbs into my mouth or running a damp finger around the inside of the bag to snag every last flavor molecule. Each serving weighs in at 120 calories with half the fat of regular potato chips, and there isn't a single gram of trans fat, saturated fat*, or cholesterol to be found. There are no fake colors, flavors, or preservatives, either. In fact, the ingredients in the sea salt corn chips, for example, are all things I can understand: organic white corn, safflower oil and/or sunflower oil, and sea salt. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/bbq_chips_etc-779016.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/bbq_chips_etc-779013.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The company sent me samples of each flavor and I've been working my way through them. So far my favorites are barbecue (potato) and salsa (corn). The only one that I don't care for is wasabi (rice). I'm just not a big wasabi-lover, unless it's the real deal. But the others are compulsively delicious, with just the right amount of flavor locked into every crevice and cranny.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Is it snack time yet?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>popchips are available at Bristol Farms, Mollie Stone's, Safeway, and online through Amazon.com\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>*Except in the cheddar corn chips, because they use real cheese and real cheese has trace amounts of saturated fats.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"description": "I have always been a snacker. When I was a kid, I preferred white bread spread with cold butter and folded in half, or an oatmeal creme pie. In high school, my snack varied according to whether or not I was on a diet; when I was, I munched Wheat Thins and grapes, and when",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/bbq_chips-749704.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/bbq_chips-749702.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I have always been a snacker. When I was a kid, I preferred white bread spread with cold butter and folded in half, or an \u003ca href=\"http://www.littledebbie.com/products/OatmealPies.asp\">oatmeal creme pie\u003c/a>. In high school, my snack varied according to whether or not I was on a diet; when I was, I munched \u003ca href=\"http://www.nabiscoworld.com/brands/brandlist.aspx?SiteId=1&CatalogType=1&BrandKey=wheatthins&BrandLink=/wheatthins/&BrandId=92&PageNo=1\">Wheat Thins\u003c/a> and grapes, and when I wasn't, I was partial to eating ice cream cakes right out of the box. Regardless of the menu, though, I always had a snack between lunch and dinner.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now that I am older and my metabolism no longer operates at the speed of light, I am constantly looking for healthy alternatives. I've tried foregoing the afternoon snack altogether, but it's impossible. Like a newborn baby, I simply cannot go for more than a few hours without eating. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Over the years, I've thought a lot about what constitutes the perfect snack. I've whittled down the list to four key components:\u003cbr>1. Tastes great.\u003cbr>2. Fills you up.\u003cbr>3. Takes a long time to eat.\u003cbr>4. Salty, not sweet.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Let's examine these in reverse order. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Salty, not sweet. This criterion is self-explanatory. It just comes down to personal choice. If you want to get phreaked on a sugar high at three o'clock in the afternoon, knock yourself out.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Takes a long time to eat. I have read time and again that it takes 20 minutes for my brain to realize that my belly has had enough to eat. On top of that, I'm a supersonic eater. All together, that means that if my snack is a string cheese, it's gone quicker than you can say mozzarella. When that happens, I have a choice: I can either spend the next 19 minutes listening to my tummy buckle and howl, or plant myself in front of the fridge and desperately shovel in anything that isn't stuck to the shelf. That's why it's crucial that the snack eating itself can last a long time. That might mean a snack with lots of individual parts (popcorn) or one that demands constant reassembly (cheese and crackers). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fills you up. The whole point of the snack in the first place is to keep me out of the kitchen until dinnertime, so it's no good eating a handful of carrots or grapes (see also: face-stuffing fridge scenario, above). On the advice of my personal trainer, I started working in some fat or protein, and that helps a snack stick with me. So does eating triple-digit calories. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tastes great. This is a snack's most important quality. Healthy eating is all too often a sacrifice. Either you eat something delicious, but in such small quantities that it wouldn't satisfy an \u003ca href=\"http://perezhilton.com/topics/nicole_richie/nicole_richie_enters_rehab_20070522.php\">anorexic celebutante\u003c/a>, or you eat a lot of something that tastes like salted cardboard, minus the salt. Since I'm a girl who likes to have my cake and eat it too, when I find something tasty that doesn't increase the likelihood that my thighs will be assigned their own zip code, I'm in heaven. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/3bags-703294.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/3bags-703292.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That's why I was so delighted to discover \u003ca href=\"http://popchips.com/\">popchips\u003c/a>, a brand new chippy snack that is popped rather than fried or baked. It meets all of my criteria and then some. They start with potatoes, organic white corn, or brown rice and apply heat and pressure to \"pop\" the chips without any oil. The crunchy nibbles come in nine flavors like Parmesan garlic (potato), cheddar (corn), and sea salt (rice). Each bag is a good solid serving, enough so that I don't have to resort to desperate measures like pouring the crumbs into my mouth or running a damp finger around the inside of the bag to snag every last flavor molecule. Each serving weighs in at 120 calories with half the fat of regular potato chips, and there isn't a single gram of trans fat, saturated fat*, or cholesterol to be found. There are no fake colors, flavors, or preservatives, either. In fact, the ingredients in the sea salt corn chips, for example, are all things I can understand: organic white corn, safflower oil and/or sunflower oil, and sea salt. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/bbq_chips_etc-779016.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/bbq_chips_etc-779013.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The company sent me samples of each flavor and I've been working my way through them. So far my favorites are barbecue (potato) and salsa (corn). The only one that I don't care for is wasabi (rice). I'm just not a big wasabi-lover, unless it's the real deal. But the others are compulsively delicious, with just the right amount of flavor locked into every crevice and cranny.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Is it snack time yet?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>popchips are available at Bristol Farms, Mollie Stone's, Safeway, and online through Amazon.com\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>*Except in the cheddar corn chips, because they use real cheese and real cheese has trace amounts of saturated fats.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "What's the Story, Morning Glory Chai?",
"title": "What's the Story, Morning Glory Chai?",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/chaibottle-769984.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/chaibottle-769979.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One sip is all it took to hook me. Intent on feeding my caramel fixation one recent morning, I stopped by the \u003ca href=\"http://www.lacocina.org\">La Cocina\u003c/a> stall at the Ferry Plaza farmers' market for some \u003ca href=\"http://www.saborsur.com\">alfajores\u003c/a>. As I made my purchase, culinary director Jason Rose handed me a miniature paper cup filled with steaming \u003ca href=\"http://www.chaihouse.com/chai.html\">Morning Glory Chai\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cue the (food) porn soundtrack: boom-chicka-bow-wow chicka-bow-wow. The chai was spicy with a soupçon of exotic sweetness, and almost unbearably creamy. It was, hands down, the best chai I've ever tasted. I had to learn more.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chai means tea in several languages, including Turkish and Russian, but it also refers to the intoxicating blend of warm milk, black tea, and aromatic Indian spices that has become a familiar drink on coffee shop menus. Most chais incorporate cardamom, cinnamon, cloves, ginger, freshly grated nutmeg, and pepper into the mix; Morning Glory adds all of those, as well as less common seasonings like vanilla bean, coriander, and orange peel. But what really sets Morning Glory apart is the inclusion of Chinese herbs, which give new meaning to the term \"pick me up.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to Laura Smailes, a certified clinical herbalist and the San Francisco manufacturer of Morning Glory Chai, there is astragulus to build the immune system and galangal to increase circulation. Gotu kola is good for the brain and, in conjunction with ginkgo, adds oxygen to the blood. Foti is added for longevity. \"The Chinese say it will keep your hair black,\" she explains.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Morning Glory Chai recipe dates back 12 years, when Seattle-based herbalist Jessica Vidica-Neisus brewed the first cup. \"She chose herbs that were safe for anyone to use. There are no contraindications in these small doses. It's a way to get medicine into a tasty beverage.\" Put simply: \"It increases circulation, brain function, and digestion.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Laura and Jessica met while Laura was apprenticing at an herbal apothecary and working at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.chaihouse.com/chai/more_info.html\">Chai House\u003c/a> in Seattle. When she moved to San Francisco to study ayurvedic medicine, she was looking for a way to support herself.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I realized there was no good chai in San Francisco,\" Laura says. \"I started the chai business to put myself through school.\" Two and a half years later, her chai is served at places like Farley's, Ritual Coffee Roasters, and Bi-Rite Creamery, where it is incorporated into a hot drinking chocolate. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Laura makes each batch by hand. She starts by filling a 30-gallon pot with filtered water. Once it's boiling, she simmers the herbs and spices for 45 minutes, then removes them and adds fair-trade black tea and ginkgo. Finally she adds honey, vanilla, and organic maple syrup to sweeten the chai. (A decaf version is brewed without tea.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Laura's use of natural sweeteners means the chai is safe drinking for people with blood sugar problems such as hypoglycemia. It's also dairy-free, which gives people a choice of how to drink it. \"It's traditionally drunk with steamed milk in India,\" Laura says. But some people prefer it straight up.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And the name? It is named for a flower known to induce an alternate state of consciousness. As Laura says, \"It's the tea of dreams.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To brew at home: Combine equal parts chai and milk. Drink cold, or steam and serve hot. Once open, refrigerate and consume within three weeks. Refrigerate decaf chai immediately, whether open or not.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Available at Brickhouse Café & Bar, Farley's, MotoJava, Ritual Coffee Roasters. Also available in half-gallon jugs ($11) at Ferry Plaza & Alemany farmers' markets.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/chaibottle-769984.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/chaibottle-769979.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One sip is all it took to hook me. Intent on feeding my caramel fixation one recent morning, I stopped by the \u003ca href=\"http://www.lacocina.org\">La Cocina\u003c/a> stall at the Ferry Plaza farmers' market for some \u003ca href=\"http://www.saborsur.com\">alfajores\u003c/a>. As I made my purchase, culinary director Jason Rose handed me a miniature paper cup filled with steaming \u003ca href=\"http://www.chaihouse.com/chai.html\">Morning Glory Chai\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cue the (food) porn soundtrack: boom-chicka-bow-wow chicka-bow-wow. The chai was spicy with a soupçon of exotic sweetness, and almost unbearably creamy. It was, hands down, the best chai I've ever tasted. I had to learn more.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chai means tea in several languages, including Turkish and Russian, but it also refers to the intoxicating blend of warm milk, black tea, and aromatic Indian spices that has become a familiar drink on coffee shop menus. Most chais incorporate cardamom, cinnamon, cloves, ginger, freshly grated nutmeg, and pepper into the mix; Morning Glory adds all of those, as well as less common seasonings like vanilla bean, coriander, and orange peel. But what really sets Morning Glory apart is the inclusion of Chinese herbs, which give new meaning to the term \"pick me up.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to Laura Smailes, a certified clinical herbalist and the San Francisco manufacturer of Morning Glory Chai, there is astragulus to build the immune system and galangal to increase circulation. Gotu kola is good for the brain and, in conjunction with ginkgo, adds oxygen to the blood. Foti is added for longevity. \"The Chinese say it will keep your hair black,\" she explains.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Morning Glory Chai recipe dates back 12 years, when Seattle-based herbalist Jessica Vidica-Neisus brewed the first cup. \"She chose herbs that were safe for anyone to use. There are no contraindications in these small doses. It's a way to get medicine into a tasty beverage.\" Put simply: \"It increases circulation, brain function, and digestion.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Laura and Jessica met while Laura was apprenticing at an herbal apothecary and working at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.chaihouse.com/chai/more_info.html\">Chai House\u003c/a> in Seattle. When she moved to San Francisco to study ayurvedic medicine, she was looking for a way to support herself.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I realized there was no good chai in San Francisco,\" Laura says. \"I started the chai business to put myself through school.\" Two and a half years later, her chai is served at places like Farley's, Ritual Coffee Roasters, and Bi-Rite Creamery, where it is incorporated into a hot drinking chocolate. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Laura makes each batch by hand. She starts by filling a 30-gallon pot with filtered water. Once it's boiling, she simmers the herbs and spices for 45 minutes, then removes them and adds fair-trade black tea and ginkgo. Finally she adds honey, vanilla, and organic maple syrup to sweeten the chai. (A decaf version is brewed without tea.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Laura's use of natural sweeteners means the chai is safe drinking for people with blood sugar problems such as hypoglycemia. It's also dairy-free, which gives people a choice of how to drink it. \"It's traditionally drunk with steamed milk in India,\" Laura says. But some people prefer it straight up.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And the name? It is named for a flower known to induce an alternate state of consciousness. As Laura says, \"It's the tea of dreams.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To brew at home: Combine equal parts chai and milk. Drink cold, or steam and serve hot. Once open, refrigerate and consume within three weeks. Refrigerate decaf chai immediately, whether open or not.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Available at Brickhouse Café & Bar, Farley's, MotoJava, Ritual Coffee Roasters. Also available in half-gallon jugs ($11) at Ferry Plaza & Alemany farmers' markets.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>Last week, a friend from \u003ca href=\"http://www.tantemarie.com\">cooking class\u003c/a> tipped me off to B Star Bar, the month-old offshoot of \u003ca href=\"http://www.burmasuperstar.com\">Burma Superstar\u003c/a> that's located two blocks away on Clement Street. B Star Bar offers a blend of Burmese, Asian, and Western dishes, and though it doesn't outshine the Mother Ship, it's worth a visit if you can't bear BSS's legendary two-hour wait. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Though they don't take reservations for parties smaller than six, when I called they were kind enough to take one anyway for the three of us. A nice touch, I thought, and smart for a new restaurant that's trying to attract customers. There's no sign up yet, but if you look for a swash of yellow paint you'll see the words B Star Bar stenciled on the window. We walked in last Saturday night to find some friends killing time (and taking the edge off their hunger) while they waited for their table at Burma Superstar. \"Order the croquettes!\" they advised.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/2ndinterior-742384.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/2ndinterior-742379.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I didn't linger in the large, spare front room, but headed straight to the back patio, which is the place to be. Buddha statues and lush green foliage create an exotic, jungle-y feel for the dozen or so tables, and a few glimpses of the night sky peek out from the tent. There are enough heat lamps to keep everybody comfortable in shirtsleeves. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/edamame-767934.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/edamame-767929.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The menu combines traditional Burmese preparations with Asian and Western classics. Sometimes the dishes are a mix of several traditions, but more often than not each one sticks to its own. We started with spicy edamame ($3.95), a bowl of green pods slick with red chilies and chunks of garlic. They were fiery, and after a few bites my battle-damaged tongue begged for a break. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/croquettes-710462.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/croquettes-710459.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was dismayed when everything we ordered arrived at once, and though the wait staff were attentive, the coursing made it clear both they and the kitchen are inexperienced. The Kabocha croquettes ($5.95) came three panko-dusted orbs to a plate. They're filled with Kabocha squash and seasoned with tomatoes and curry before being deep-fried. They were sweet, as was the addictive sticky sauce that accompanied them. Though the result wasn't quite one-dimensional, I wouldn't have objected to a bit more crunch. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/tealeafsalad-771559.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/tealeafsalad-771557.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was eagerly anticipating the tealeaf salad ($7.95), a BSS classic. I was disappointed that it wasn't tossed tableside, and it was missing some of the complexity I loved due to the omission of dried shrimp and jalapeños. But the uniquely bitter tang of tealeaves was unmistakable, and we polished off every last bite. A desperate plea to the management: please, please, please, bring back the original.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We ordered two kinds of noodles, and my favorite dish of the evening was the kau soi ($8.95)- ramen-like noodles mixed with ground chicken and pickled mustard greens in a coconut curry sauce. The menu calls this bordertown food; I don't know if that refers to Bangladesh, India, China, Laos or Thailand, all of which butt up to Myanmar. It's similar to BSS's nan pia dok, a dish that I once said I would walk through crushed glass to eat, and I would do the same for the kau soi. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/duckgarlicnoodles-748997.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/duckgarlicnoodles-748994.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The other noodle dish was see jyet ($7.95), thin, long noodles with fried garlic, shredded duck, and cucumbers. It wasn't garlicky enough to wow me, or to surpass its virtuoso cousin, but my dining companions lapped it up.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/nicoise-723281.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/nicoise-723278.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Asian Niçoise salad with grilled cod ($10.95) is one of the few creations that blends culinary traditions. Field greens were topped with lightly blanched asparagus, fanned avocado slices, shiitake mushrooms, hard-boiled egg, and grilled cod and tossed with miso dressing. My favorite part was the pile of handmade sweet potato chips on the side, but I'd probably skip the entire thing next time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/shortribs-755004.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/shortribs-755002.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Short ribs with Hawaiian-style pineapple fried rice ($9.95) were hit and miss. The rice was built with juicy chunks of grilled pineapple and grains moistened by a slippery fried egg yolk. The kimchee was bracingly hot, but the short ribs were tough and fatty. If they'd upgrade the meat, however, I'd order it again in a heartbeat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We brought our own wine, but they have some decent options by the glass, carafe, and bottle, as well as soju cocktails and the famous Burma cooler, beer spiked with ginger and fresh lemon. After gorging ourselves on noodles, we passed on dessert.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Though I applaud the Burma Superstar crew for wanting to spread their wings, by far the most successful dishes were the Burmese-leaning ones. If B Star Bar can tighten up the menu, incorporating intoxicating Burmese touches with better-executed pan-Asian and Western ideas, they could have a good thing going. For now, keep them in mind if you simply can't stomach the wait up the street. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Note: This write-up is based on one anonymous visit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>B Star Bar\u003cbr>127 Clement St. b/w 2nd & 3rd \u003cbr>San Francisco\u003cbr>(415) 933-9900 \u003cbr>Open every day but Wednesday for lunch and dinner\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Last week, a friend from \u003ca href=\"http://www.tantemarie.com\">cooking class\u003c/a> tipped me off to B Star Bar, the month-old offshoot of \u003ca href=\"http://www.burmasuperstar.com\">Burma Superstar\u003c/a> that's located two blocks away on Clement Street. B Star Bar offers a blend of Burmese, Asian, and Western dishes, and though it doesn't outshine the Mother Ship, it's worth a visit if you can't bear BSS's legendary two-hour wait. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Though they don't take reservations for parties smaller than six, when I called they were kind enough to take one anyway for the three of us. A nice touch, I thought, and smart for a new restaurant that's trying to attract customers. There's no sign up yet, but if you look for a swash of yellow paint you'll see the words B Star Bar stenciled on the window. We walked in last Saturday night to find some friends killing time (and taking the edge off their hunger) while they waited for their table at Burma Superstar. \"Order the croquettes!\" they advised.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/2ndinterior-742384.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/2ndinterior-742379.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I didn't linger in the large, spare front room, but headed straight to the back patio, which is the place to be. Buddha statues and lush green foliage create an exotic, jungle-y feel for the dozen or so tables, and a few glimpses of the night sky peek out from the tent. There are enough heat lamps to keep everybody comfortable in shirtsleeves. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/edamame-767934.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/edamame-767929.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The menu combines traditional Burmese preparations with Asian and Western classics. Sometimes the dishes are a mix of several traditions, but more often than not each one sticks to its own. We started with spicy edamame ($3.95), a bowl of green pods slick with red chilies and chunks of garlic. They were fiery, and after a few bites my battle-damaged tongue begged for a break. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/croquettes-710462.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/croquettes-710459.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was dismayed when everything we ordered arrived at once, and though the wait staff were attentive, the coursing made it clear both they and the kitchen are inexperienced. The Kabocha croquettes ($5.95) came three panko-dusted orbs to a plate. They're filled with Kabocha squash and seasoned with tomatoes and curry before being deep-fried. They were sweet, as was the addictive sticky sauce that accompanied them. Though the result wasn't quite one-dimensional, I wouldn't have objected to a bit more crunch. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/tealeafsalad-771559.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/tealeafsalad-771557.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was eagerly anticipating the tealeaf salad ($7.95), a BSS classic. I was disappointed that it wasn't tossed tableside, and it was missing some of the complexity I loved due to the omission of dried shrimp and jalapeños. But the uniquely bitter tang of tealeaves was unmistakable, and we polished off every last bite. A desperate plea to the management: please, please, please, bring back the original.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We ordered two kinds of noodles, and my favorite dish of the evening was the kau soi ($8.95)- ramen-like noodles mixed with ground chicken and pickled mustard greens in a coconut curry sauce. The menu calls this bordertown food; I don't know if that refers to Bangladesh, India, China, Laos or Thailand, all of which butt up to Myanmar. It's similar to BSS's nan pia dok, a dish that I once said I would walk through crushed glass to eat, and I would do the same for the kau soi. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/duckgarlicnoodles-748997.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/duckgarlicnoodles-748994.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The other noodle dish was see jyet ($7.95), thin, long noodles with fried garlic, shredded duck, and cucumbers. It wasn't garlicky enough to wow me, or to surpass its virtuoso cousin, but my dining companions lapped it up.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/nicoise-723281.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/nicoise-723278.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Asian Niçoise salad with grilled cod ($10.95) is one of the few creations that blends culinary traditions. Field greens were topped with lightly blanched asparagus, fanned avocado slices, shiitake mushrooms, hard-boiled egg, and grilled cod and tossed with miso dressing. My favorite part was the pile of handmade sweet potato chips on the side, but I'd probably skip the entire thing next time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/shortribs-755004.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/shortribs-755002.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Short ribs with Hawaiian-style pineapple fried rice ($9.95) were hit and miss. The rice was built with juicy chunks of grilled pineapple and grains moistened by a slippery fried egg yolk. The kimchee was bracingly hot, but the short ribs were tough and fatty. If they'd upgrade the meat, however, I'd order it again in a heartbeat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We brought our own wine, but they have some decent options by the glass, carafe, and bottle, as well as soju cocktails and the famous Burma cooler, beer spiked with ginger and fresh lemon. After gorging ourselves on noodles, we passed on dessert.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Though I applaud the Burma Superstar crew for wanting to spread their wings, by far the most successful dishes were the Burmese-leaning ones. If B Star Bar can tighten up the menu, incorporating intoxicating Burmese touches with better-executed pan-Asian and Western ideas, they could have a good thing going. For now, keep them in mind if you simply can't stomach the wait up the street. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Note: This write-up is based on one anonymous visit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>B Star Bar\u003cbr>127 Clement St. b/w 2nd & 3rd \u003cbr>San Francisco\u003cbr>(415) 933-9900 \u003cbr>Open every day but Wednesday for lunch and dinner\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Essencia Shows Peruvian a Light Touch",
"title": "Essencia Shows Peruvian a Light Touch",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/essencia_ext-700499.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/essencia_ext-700496.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A few weeks ago, I wrote that \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/labels/Piqueo's.jsp\">the culinary mafia had named Peruvian the new \"it\" food\u003c/a>. With the mid-May opening of \u003ca href=\"http://www.essenciarestaurant.com/\">Essencia\u003c/a> following closely on the heels of \u003ca href=\"http://www.piqeos.com\">Piqueo's\u003c/a>, it's starting to look like the pundits were right.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Anne Gingrass, one half of the duo behind the former Hawthorne Lane, has partnered with Juan and Carmen Cespedes, a husband-and-wife team originally from Lima, Peru to open Essencia, a 45-seat spot in Hayes Valley. The room doesn't feel small thanks to a nearly all-glass façade that allows for plenty of people watching at the bustling corner of Gough and Hayes. (It's also a great location for nabbing walk-in customers, and outdoor tables are already in the works.) Furnished simply with sustainably harvested red acacia tabletops, pale brown walls, and graphic orange and gold lampshades, the room provides a great backdrop for the folksy Peruvian landscape painting that occupies one wall. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/essencia_int-720390.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/essencia_int-720387.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like the dining room, the menu is small. Gingrass designed it around Peru's home cooking and contemporary restaurant cuisine, but rooted it firmly in San Francisco by relying on local, organic ingredients (including hyper-local products from neighborhood vendors like \u003ca href=\"http://www.bluebottlecoffee.net/\">Blue Bottle Coffee Company\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.moderntea.com\">Modern Tea\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.miettecakes.com/gallery_2.html\">Miette Confiserie\u003c/a>.) Though some things will be imported, she is also working with Bay Area farmers to cultivate Peruvian herbs and vegetables here at home. The result is lighter food than you'll find at most of the city's other Peruvian haunts. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/kampachi-760937.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/kampachi-760934.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Peruvian cuisine is truly multi-cultural, drawing on Incan roots as well as Spanish, African, Chinese, Japanese, Italian, and Creole culinary traditions. Ceviche is practically a national dish, so we started with one of the three on offer: sliced Kampachi with creamy hot yellow pepper sauce ($12). This preparation might more accurately be called tiradito, which is distinguished from ceviche by two things: slices of fish rather than chunks, and a lack of onions. The sashimi-thin yellowtail was covered in spicy sauce and garnished with a salad of pickled English cucumbers, soft yam coins, and giant corn. Though I liked the cut of the delicate fish, the sauce completely overpowered it. My favorite part was the salad, which I devoured. I'd like a bowl right now, as a matter of fact.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/artichokes-779576.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/artichokes-779574.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Next we shared artichokes filled with quinoa salad and lemon parsley sauce ($12). The baby artichokes could have been trimmed better to eliminate all the tough outer leaves, but the salad itself was dreamy: cool \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2007/05/against-grain.jsp\">quinoa\u003c/a> topped with roasted red peppers, fried shallots, and a subtle, well-balanced sauce I'd love to eat, drink, and bathe in from now until the end of time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/lomosaltado-795503.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/lomosaltado-795500.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For dinner, we went with heartier classics. My boyfriend ordered the \"Lomo Saltado\" ($26.75), essentially Peruvian steak frites scattered with cilantro and served with stir-fried onions and thick slabs of crisp yucca fries. A pink filet with a nicely charred coat was sliced thin and dressed in a sprightly sauce of beef stock, soy sauce, red wine vinegar, and its own savory juices. I plan to order this on every single future visit; it would be the perfect hangover cure if it were added to the lunch menu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/lamb-776892.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/lamb-776891.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The leg of lamb simmered in cilantro sauce with peas and risotto ($25) tasted, of all things, Indian. I think it's easy to see why, given the ingredients. Though I ran across a few less than tender chunks, the sauce and the Parmesan-rich risotto more than made up for it. Whisked to the table in its very own miniature Le Creuset, the risotto was spooned up tableside. Since the wee pot kept it nice and warm, I compulsively nibbled on it long after my hunger was sated. Was it Peruvian? Not so far as I could tell. But it was damn good. And, like the steak, the portion was reasonable enough to finish without feeling stuffed. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Credit for the well-edited and well-priced wine list goes to Luis Maya, Essencia's unofficial sommelier. All the selections are imported, with the majority from Spain and Argentina, and their relatively low alcohol levels make them particularly food-friendly. We enjoyed a 2006 Laxas Albariño ($9) and a 2006 Sur de los Andes Torrontes ($7) to start. I loved the Torrontes, which is a grape more often used for blending than drunk straight up. It had honey on the nose but tasted surprisingly dry. We switched to reds for the main course, but the other real standout was the Pedro Romero Amontillado sherry ($7), which was a beautiful amber color and bright with citrus.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/guanavana-736537.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/guanavana-736535.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Desserts showcased a variety of Peruvian fruits like lucama and guanavana (also known as guanabana or soursop and similar to cherimoya). The latter is a creamy fruit with citrus and vanilla notes that was perfectly suited to Essencia's fresh strawberry-topped mousse ($6). But the real must-have sweet was the plate of alfajores ($4.50), buttery cookies stuck together with a sinful stamp of dulce de leche. One of the cookies incorporated fresh coconut into the ooey-gooey middle, but I preferred the luxury of pure caramel goodness. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/alfajor-761302.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/alfajor-761300.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What ultimately makes me prefer Essencia to the city's other Peruvian-inflected restaurants is the prevalence of lighter dishes. As a result, most of the flavors, both indigenous and imported, really shine. It's also the best kind of neighborhood restaurant: friendly, appealing, comfortable, and reasonably priced. Regardless what culinary traditions influence the menu, that's always a recipe for success. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Note: This visit was a first impression, and the meal was comped. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Essencia\u003cbr>401 Gough Street at Hayes\u003cbr>San Francisco\u003cbr>(415) 552-8485\u003cbr>Open Monday-Saturday for lunch and dinner\u003c/p>\n\n",
"disqusIdentifier": "642 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/2007/06/14/essencia-shows-peruvian-a-light-touch/",
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"description": "A few weeks ago, I wrote that the culinary mafia had named Peruvian the new "it" food. With the mid-May opening of Essencia following closely on the heels of Piqueo's, it's starting to look like the pundits were right. Anne Gingrass, one half of the duo behind the former Hawthorne Lane, has partnered with Juan",
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"slug": "essencia-shows-peruvian-a-light-touch",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/essencia_ext-700499.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/essencia_ext-700496.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A few weeks ago, I wrote that \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/labels/Piqueo's.jsp\">the culinary mafia had named Peruvian the new \"it\" food\u003c/a>. With the mid-May opening of \u003ca href=\"http://www.essenciarestaurant.com/\">Essencia\u003c/a> following closely on the heels of \u003ca href=\"http://www.piqeos.com\">Piqueo's\u003c/a>, it's starting to look like the pundits were right.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Anne Gingrass, one half of the duo behind the former Hawthorne Lane, has partnered with Juan and Carmen Cespedes, a husband-and-wife team originally from Lima, Peru to open Essencia, a 45-seat spot in Hayes Valley. The room doesn't feel small thanks to a nearly all-glass façade that allows for plenty of people watching at the bustling corner of Gough and Hayes. (It's also a great location for nabbing walk-in customers, and outdoor tables are already in the works.) Furnished simply with sustainably harvested red acacia tabletops, pale brown walls, and graphic orange and gold lampshades, the room provides a great backdrop for the folksy Peruvian landscape painting that occupies one wall. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/essencia_int-720390.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/essencia_int-720387.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like the dining room, the menu is small. Gingrass designed it around Peru's home cooking and contemporary restaurant cuisine, but rooted it firmly in San Francisco by relying on local, organic ingredients (including hyper-local products from neighborhood vendors like \u003ca href=\"http://www.bluebottlecoffee.net/\">Blue Bottle Coffee Company\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.moderntea.com\">Modern Tea\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.miettecakes.com/gallery_2.html\">Miette Confiserie\u003c/a>.) Though some things will be imported, she is also working with Bay Area farmers to cultivate Peruvian herbs and vegetables here at home. The result is lighter food than you'll find at most of the city's other Peruvian haunts. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/kampachi-760937.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/kampachi-760934.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Peruvian cuisine is truly multi-cultural, drawing on Incan roots as well as Spanish, African, Chinese, Japanese, Italian, and Creole culinary traditions. Ceviche is practically a national dish, so we started with one of the three on offer: sliced Kampachi with creamy hot yellow pepper sauce ($12). This preparation might more accurately be called tiradito, which is distinguished from ceviche by two things: slices of fish rather than chunks, and a lack of onions. The sashimi-thin yellowtail was covered in spicy sauce and garnished with a salad of pickled English cucumbers, soft yam coins, and giant corn. Though I liked the cut of the delicate fish, the sauce completely overpowered it. My favorite part was the salad, which I devoured. I'd like a bowl right now, as a matter of fact.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/artichokes-779576.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/artichokes-779574.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Next we shared artichokes filled with quinoa salad and lemon parsley sauce ($12). The baby artichokes could have been trimmed better to eliminate all the tough outer leaves, but the salad itself was dreamy: cool \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2007/05/against-grain.jsp\">quinoa\u003c/a> topped with roasted red peppers, fried shallots, and a subtle, well-balanced sauce I'd love to eat, drink, and bathe in from now until the end of time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/lomosaltado-795503.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/lomosaltado-795500.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For dinner, we went with heartier classics. My boyfriend ordered the \"Lomo Saltado\" ($26.75), essentially Peruvian steak frites scattered with cilantro and served with stir-fried onions and thick slabs of crisp yucca fries. A pink filet with a nicely charred coat was sliced thin and dressed in a sprightly sauce of beef stock, soy sauce, red wine vinegar, and its own savory juices. I plan to order this on every single future visit; it would be the perfect hangover cure if it were added to the lunch menu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/lamb-776892.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/lamb-776891.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The leg of lamb simmered in cilantro sauce with peas and risotto ($25) tasted, of all things, Indian. I think it's easy to see why, given the ingredients. Though I ran across a few less than tender chunks, the sauce and the Parmesan-rich risotto more than made up for it. Whisked to the table in its very own miniature Le Creuset, the risotto was spooned up tableside. Since the wee pot kept it nice and warm, I compulsively nibbled on it long after my hunger was sated. Was it Peruvian? Not so far as I could tell. But it was damn good. And, like the steak, the portion was reasonable enough to finish without feeling stuffed. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Credit for the well-edited and well-priced wine list goes to Luis Maya, Essencia's unofficial sommelier. All the selections are imported, with the majority from Spain and Argentina, and their relatively low alcohol levels make them particularly food-friendly. We enjoyed a 2006 Laxas Albariño ($9) and a 2006 Sur de los Andes Torrontes ($7) to start. I loved the Torrontes, which is a grape more often used for blending than drunk straight up. It had honey on the nose but tasted surprisingly dry. We switched to reds for the main course, but the other real standout was the Pedro Romero Amontillado sherry ($7), which was a beautiful amber color and bright with citrus.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/guanavana-736537.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/guanavana-736535.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Desserts showcased a variety of Peruvian fruits like lucama and guanavana (also known as guanabana or soursop and similar to cherimoya). The latter is a creamy fruit with citrus and vanilla notes that was perfectly suited to Essencia's fresh strawberry-topped mousse ($6). But the real must-have sweet was the plate of alfajores ($4.50), buttery cookies stuck together with a sinful stamp of dulce de leche. One of the cookies incorporated fresh coconut into the ooey-gooey middle, but I preferred the luxury of pure caramel goodness. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/alfajor-761302.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/alfajor-761300.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What ultimately makes me prefer Essencia to the city's other Peruvian-inflected restaurants is the prevalence of lighter dishes. As a result, most of the flavors, both indigenous and imported, really shine. It's also the best kind of neighborhood restaurant: friendly, appealing, comfortable, and reasonably priced. Regardless what culinary traditions influence the menu, that's always a recipe for success. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Note: This visit was a first impression, and the meal was comped. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Essencia\u003cbr>401 Gough Street at Hayes\u003cbr>San Francisco\u003cbr>(415) 552-8485\u003cbr>Open Monday-Saturday for lunch and dinner\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Against the Grain",
"title": "Against the Grain",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/requinoa-755125.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/requinoa-755117.jpg\" border=\"0\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'm a bit of a skeptic when it comes to whole grains. You know the ones I mean: Amaranth. Millet. Quinoa. Teff. They sound faintly exotic, like semiprecious jewels or new colors from the \u003ca href=\"http://www.potterybarn.com/content/benmoorec/stylehouse.cfm?words=paint\">Pottery Barn paint collection\u003c/a>. But they also have a hippie-dippy air about them, and I like my food full of flavor (and my underarms shaved, thank-you-very-much).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With superstar bloggers like \u003ca href=\"http://101cookbooks.com/\">Heidi Swanson\u003c/a> constantly singing their praises, though, lately I've started to waver. But something held me back. And then I went out and ate nine desserts in one sitting -- a feast so ridiculous even Dionysus himself would have surely chided me for it -- and I began looking about for ways to eat healthier. As luck would have it, \u003ca href=\"http://www.harpercollins.com/books/9780061119880/The_WheatFree_Cook/index.aspx\">The Wheat-Free Cook\u003c/a> (William Morrow, $24.95) arrived in my mailbox during this moment of curiosity, and the first recipe to catch my eye was quinoa salad with cucumber, tomato, and mint.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/WFC1-782519.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/WFC1-782517.jpg\" border=\"0\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Since that sounded like a dish for a warm, sunny day, I decided to call up the book's author while I waited for such a day to appear on San Francisco's foggy horizon. Jacqueline Mallorca is a local food writer who started her career by writing the first ever \u003ca href=\"http://www.williams-sonoma.com/?flash=on&cm_ref=http%3A//www.google.com/search%3Fq%3Dwilliams+sonoma%26ie%3Dutf-8%26oe%3Dutf-8%26aq%3Dt%26rls%3Dorg.mozilla%3Aen-US%3Aofficial%26client%3Dfirefox-a\">Williams-Sonoma\u003c/a> catalog and later became an editorial assistant to James Beard and a San Francisco Chronicle food columnist. She now has more than 11 cookbooks to her name.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A little over ten years ago, Jackie was diagnosed with \u003ca href=\"http://www.celiac.org/\">celiac disease\u003c/a>. For Jackie and 1.5 million Americans, that means gluten, a protein found in wheat, barley, and rye, makes them sick. Like most newly diagnosed sufferers, she was taken aback by all the foods she could suddenly no longer eat -- bread, pancakes, crackers, cereal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Being a cook, a foodie from way back, I laughed heartily at the diet sheet I was handed, and said, 'Oh no, I can do better than that.' I started reinventing the way that I cook,\" Jackie told me over the phone.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That meant shifting to nut flours for cakes and cookies, rice flour for things like pasta or bread, and the aforementioned hippie-dippy grains I've been suspiciously eyeing for years. After spending a decade cooking gluten-free, she collected some of her favorite recipes in The Wheat-Free Cook.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even though I can eat gluten, flipping through those recipes made my tummy rumble. They looked simple and sounded delicious: onion-Gruyere tart, Asian stick noodles with pork and asparagus, cornmeal and cheese shortbread.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Jackie says that her restrictions have actually made her cooking better. \"A lot of the time, particularly if I'm making cookies and little petit fours and cakes with nut flours, they turn out much more delicious than the original versions because you're using such fine ingredients. Cakes made with ground almonds and the best quality [cocoa] powder and three or four eggs taste wonderful because they taste of the almonds and the good stuff,\" she reported.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I wanted to know more about all the funky grains that peppered the book, so I asked her what she couldn't do without, even if she could eat gluten again. \"I'd never stop using quinoa because it cooks up very fluffy, and it makes the best grain salad because it doesn't go hard like rice does when it's chilled. I wouldn't give up on millet because it makes a really terrific pilaf. I wouldn't give up on teff flour because it makes the best brownies under the sun,\" she readily answered. \"I find it's like cooking in color instead of cooking in black and white.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The sheer poetry of her answer inspired me to dig deeper into the cookbook. I went out and bought white rice flour to use for dredging sautéed foods in based on Jackie's observation that it's less gummy than flour. I dog-eared a recipe for peanut butter-chocolate chip cookies and another one for chocolate-hazelnut truffle cake (healthy eating having been long forgotten at this point). And yes, I bought some red quinoa.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A sunny day finally appeared, and I set to making the salad. I tossed in a bit of roasted chicken to make it a meal, subbed some spicy cayenne pepper for fresh ground black, and let it sit in the fridge so the flavors could introduce themselves. \"Hiya,\" I imagined the cucumber saying. \"How fresh!\" would be the radish's sharp reply. But the quinoa just sat there, still and gentle, subtly flavorful, and down-to-earth. Yum.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/quinoa-730007.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/quinoa-729992.jpg\" border=\"0\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Quinoa Salad with Cucumber, Tomato, and Mint\u003cbr>\nServes 4-6\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Recipe adapted and reprinted with permission from \u003ca href=\"http://www.harpercollins.com/books/9780061119880/The_WheatFree_Cook/index.aspx\">The Wheat-Free Cook\u003c/a> by Jacqueline Mallorca, William Morrow, $24.95.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cups gluten-free vegetable broth\u003cbr>\n1 cup red or yellow quinoa, rinsed and drained\u003cbr>\n1 cup shredded roasted chicken\u003cbr>\n1 cucumber (about 8 ounces), peeled, seeded, and chopped\u003cbr>\n2 large, ripe tomatoes, finely chopped, preferably heirloom\u003cbr>\n4 green onions, thinly sliced\u003cbr>\n8 radishes, finely chopped\u003cbr>\n¼ cup chopped mint\u003cbr>\n½ cup chopped parsley\u003cbr>\n1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil\u003cbr>\n2 tablespoons red wine vinegar\u003cbr>\nFine sea salt and cayenne pepper\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Bring the broth to a boil over high heat. Add the quinoa, reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer until the grains are tender and the liquid is absorbed, about 15 minutes. The grains will turn transparent, and the white germ ring will show. Transfer to a large bowl and let cool.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Add the chicken, cucumber, tomatoes, green onions, radishes, mint, and parsley. Whisk together the olive oil and vinegar, and season to taste with salt and cayenne pepper. Pour over the quinoa and vegetables, and mix gently but thoroughly. Taste for seasoning and adjust as needed. Serve at room temperature.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"description": "I'm a bit of a skeptic when it comes to whole grains. You know the ones I mean: Amaranth. Millet. Quinoa. Teff. They sound faintly exotic, like semiprecious jewels or new colors from the Pottery Barn paint collection. But they also have a hippie-dippy air about them, and I like my food full of flavor",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/requinoa-755125.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/requinoa-755117.jpg\" border=\"0\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'm a bit of a skeptic when it comes to whole grains. You know the ones I mean: Amaranth. Millet. Quinoa. Teff. They sound faintly exotic, like semiprecious jewels or new colors from the \u003ca href=\"http://www.potterybarn.com/content/benmoorec/stylehouse.cfm?words=paint\">Pottery Barn paint collection\u003c/a>. But they also have a hippie-dippy air about them, and I like my food full of flavor (and my underarms shaved, thank-you-very-much).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With superstar bloggers like \u003ca href=\"http://101cookbooks.com/\">Heidi Swanson\u003c/a> constantly singing their praises, though, lately I've started to waver. But something held me back. And then I went out and ate nine desserts in one sitting -- a feast so ridiculous even Dionysus himself would have surely chided me for it -- and I began looking about for ways to eat healthier. As luck would have it, \u003ca href=\"http://www.harpercollins.com/books/9780061119880/The_WheatFree_Cook/index.aspx\">The Wheat-Free Cook\u003c/a> (William Morrow, $24.95) arrived in my mailbox during this moment of curiosity, and the first recipe to catch my eye was quinoa salad with cucumber, tomato, and mint.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/WFC1-782519.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/WFC1-782517.jpg\" border=\"0\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Since that sounded like a dish for a warm, sunny day, I decided to call up the book's author while I waited for such a day to appear on San Francisco's foggy horizon. Jacqueline Mallorca is a local food writer who started her career by writing the first ever \u003ca href=\"http://www.williams-sonoma.com/?flash=on&cm_ref=http%3A//www.google.com/search%3Fq%3Dwilliams+sonoma%26ie%3Dutf-8%26oe%3Dutf-8%26aq%3Dt%26rls%3Dorg.mozilla%3Aen-US%3Aofficial%26client%3Dfirefox-a\">Williams-Sonoma\u003c/a> catalog and later became an editorial assistant to James Beard and a San Francisco Chronicle food columnist. She now has more than 11 cookbooks to her name.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A little over ten years ago, Jackie was diagnosed with \u003ca href=\"http://www.celiac.org/\">celiac disease\u003c/a>. For Jackie and 1.5 million Americans, that means gluten, a protein found in wheat, barley, and rye, makes them sick. Like most newly diagnosed sufferers, she was taken aback by all the foods she could suddenly no longer eat -- bread, pancakes, crackers, cereal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Being a cook, a foodie from way back, I laughed heartily at the diet sheet I was handed, and said, 'Oh no, I can do better than that.' I started reinventing the way that I cook,\" Jackie told me over the phone.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That meant shifting to nut flours for cakes and cookies, rice flour for things like pasta or bread, and the aforementioned hippie-dippy grains I've been suspiciously eyeing for years. After spending a decade cooking gluten-free, she collected some of her favorite recipes in The Wheat-Free Cook.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even though I can eat gluten, flipping through those recipes made my tummy rumble. They looked simple and sounded delicious: onion-Gruyere tart, Asian stick noodles with pork and asparagus, cornmeal and cheese shortbread.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Jackie says that her restrictions have actually made her cooking better. \"A lot of the time, particularly if I'm making cookies and little petit fours and cakes with nut flours, they turn out much more delicious than the original versions because you're using such fine ingredients. Cakes made with ground almonds and the best quality [cocoa] powder and three or four eggs taste wonderful because they taste of the almonds and the good stuff,\" she reported.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I wanted to know more about all the funky grains that peppered the book, so I asked her what she couldn't do without, even if she could eat gluten again. \"I'd never stop using quinoa because it cooks up very fluffy, and it makes the best grain salad because it doesn't go hard like rice does when it's chilled. I wouldn't give up on millet because it makes a really terrific pilaf. I wouldn't give up on teff flour because it makes the best brownies under the sun,\" she readily answered. \"I find it's like cooking in color instead of cooking in black and white.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The sheer poetry of her answer inspired me to dig deeper into the cookbook. I went out and bought white rice flour to use for dredging sautéed foods in based on Jackie's observation that it's less gummy than flour. I dog-eared a recipe for peanut butter-chocolate chip cookies and another one for chocolate-hazelnut truffle cake (healthy eating having been long forgotten at this point). And yes, I bought some red quinoa.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A sunny day finally appeared, and I set to making the salad. I tossed in a bit of roasted chicken to make it a meal, subbed some spicy cayenne pepper for fresh ground black, and let it sit in the fridge so the flavors could introduce themselves. \"Hiya,\" I imagined the cucumber saying. \"How fresh!\" would be the radish's sharp reply. But the quinoa just sat there, still and gentle, subtly flavorful, and down-to-earth. Yum.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/quinoa-730007.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/quinoa-729992.jpg\" border=\"0\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Quinoa Salad with Cucumber, Tomato, and Mint\u003cbr>\nServes 4-6\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Recipe adapted and reprinted with permission from \u003ca href=\"http://www.harpercollins.com/books/9780061119880/The_WheatFree_Cook/index.aspx\">The Wheat-Free Cook\u003c/a> by Jacqueline Mallorca, William Morrow, $24.95.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cups gluten-free vegetable broth\u003cbr>\n1 cup red or yellow quinoa, rinsed and drained\u003cbr>\n1 cup shredded roasted chicken\u003cbr>\n1 cucumber (about 8 ounces), peeled, seeded, and chopped\u003cbr>\n2 large, ripe tomatoes, finely chopped, preferably heirloom\u003cbr>\n4 green onions, thinly sliced\u003cbr>\n8 radishes, finely chopped\u003cbr>\n¼ cup chopped mint\u003cbr>\n½ cup chopped parsley\u003cbr>\n1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil\u003cbr>\n2 tablespoons red wine vinegar\u003cbr>\nFine sea salt and cayenne pepper\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Bring the broth to a boil over high heat. Add the quinoa, reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer until the grains are tender and the liquid is absorbed, about 15 minutes. The grains will turn transparent, and the white germ ring will show. Transfer to a large bowl and let cool.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Add the chicken, cucumber, tomatoes, green onions, radishes, mint, and parsley. Whisk together the olive oil and vinegar, and season to taste with salt and cayenne pepper. Pour over the quinoa and vegetables, and mix gently but thoroughly. Taste for seasoning and adjust as needed. Serve at room temperature.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "First Impression: Piqueo's",
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"content": "\u003cp>Note: A write-up of any restaurant that has been open less than a month is considered a \"First Impression.\" Meaning, we want to bring you the latest and greatest from around SF but acknowledge that new spots may have some kinks to work out. We keep that in mind, and you should, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/piqueos-exterior-780548.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/piqueos-exterior-780544.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Is Peruvian the new \"it\" food? Judging by the slew of articles written about it in the last year, the answer is a resounding si. From the New York Times to \u003ca href=\"http://www.aracari.com/aracariperu/cuisine/images/2006_04_28USAToday_Ceviche.jpg\">USA Today\u003c/a>, from Gourmet to the \u003ca href=\"http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2006/05/09/AR2006050900337.html\">Washington Post\u003c/a>, it's getting a lot of buzz. Nuevo Latino cooking isn't new to San Francisco; we've been enjoying \u003ca href=\"http://www.frescasf.com\">Fresca\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.limon-sf.com\">Limon\u003c/a> for years. Nevertheless, three weeks after \u003ca href=\"http://www.piqueos.com\">Piqueo's\u003c/a> opened, I found myself winding my way up the pockmarked hills of Bernal Heights to see what the city's newest Peruvian place had to offer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/piqueos-interior-721462.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/piqueos-interior-721458.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If the swarms of hungry locals are any indication, Piqueo's is already a full-blown success. When my friend and I walked in, it was still light outside and the restaurant was only half-full, but for the better part of dinner, I watched the seemingly never-ending crowd on the sidewalk outside replenish itself every time a lucky group sat down. Undoubtedly, one of the secrets to Piqueo's instantaneous popularity is the mere virtue of its existence: this is a part of town with very few chic restaurants. Chef/owner Carlos Altamirano and his wife Shu (who also own \u003ca href=\"http://www.mochicasf.com\">Mochica\u003c/a>) put a lot of care into making the space sophisticated and inviting. Arched doorways divide the restaurant into three rooms, and the many windows keep it feeling light and airy. Vivid photographs of modern-day Peru hang on brick red walls, and a lemon tree blooms on the granite bar in front of the petite open kitchen. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/picadillos-798783.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/picadillos-798781.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Piqueo's bills itself as \"contemporary Peruvian cuisine,\" which seems to mean a mix of California-grown ingredients and items flown in from Altamirano's native Peru -- the giant corn that appears in nearly every dish, for instance -- combined in authentic Peruvian preparations. The menu is divided into piqueos (small plates), ceviches, and entrées. Every meal begins with a small bowl of what they call picadillos, a mixture of fried whole garbanzo beans and dried corn kernels showered with flecks of tomato, red onion, cilantro and queso fresco. It was served with a spoon and nothing else, so we ended up eating it with our fingers. If heroin is anything like these zingy niblets, I can see how you might not notice when Social Services takes your kid. Thank God my friend was dieting -- I got to eat most of the bowl myself. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/ceviche-717095.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/ceviche-717091.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Since ceviche is a signature Peruvian dish, we started with the ceviche mixto ($14). Like nearly everything we ordered, it was dramatically plated. Two mussels on the half-shell and a tangle of raw red onion sheltered chunks of halibut, squid, and prawns. The lime marinade was brash and spicy thanks to aji limo and rocoto, red Peruvian chilies, and we found ourselves wishing for a spoon to better lap it up. The bright coral prawns were the best part of the dish, and if I went again, I'd simply order the ceviche de camarones.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/potato-salad-741219.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/potato-salad-741216.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After one bite, I dismissed the choclo peruano ($9) as too much like the picadillos to be worth ordering separately. But the cold salad of giant Peruvian corn, chunks of queso fresco, tomatoes, red onions, and lemon-oregano dressing eventually won me over. Though its flavors are indeed similar -- it's practically the same dish, except for the fried garbanzos -- it provided a cool and spirited contrast to the warm dishes we ordered. Word to the wise: it's hard to avoid palate fatigue when so many dishes are seasoned with the same spices and flavors, so order carefully.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/brochetts-757201.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/brochetts-757199.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Our waitress raved about the anticuchon ($10), skewered sirloin brochettes drizzled with sweet and spicy BBQ-style panca sauce, but we found the meat overcooked and the sauce salty beyond reason. I simply couldn't finish what I put on my plate. It was also one-dimensional, save for the delectable puddle of avocado crema, which might have rescued a properly seasoned rendition from monotony. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/plantains-779067.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/plantains-779063.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Other than the picadillos, our favorite dish of the night was a plate of fried plantains in an orange-cinnamon glaze ($7). I'm not much for bananas, but I have adored plantains since I first tried them in an El Salvadoran restaurant with a heap of black beans and tangy sour cream on the side. As our waitress warned us, these are sweet enough to be dessert, so we decided to eat them last. From the caramelized sugars in the sauce to the slightly sour, creamy mash of the platanitos, every bite was bliss.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/garlic-shrimp-700562.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/garlic-shrimp-700560.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Unfortunately, we'd forgotten about the garlic shrimp ($10) still coming our way. After dessert, it was hard to go back, and when I woke up with vampire-slaying breath the next morning, I sort of wished I hadn't. Still, the shrimp were nicely cooked and the griddled bread was the perfect sponge for all that garlicky sauce. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Our waitress was knowledgeable and friendly, and any small flubs in service -- the lack of changed plates between courses, the traffic jam of dishes sent out too quickly by the kitchen -- should work themselves out as Piqueo's gets through opening month madness. Even if they don't, I'm already craving those picadillos.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Piqueo's\u003cbr>830 Cortland Avenue\u003cbr>San Francisco\u003cbr>(415) 282-8812\u003cbr>Open for dinner 7 nights a week\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Note: A write-up of any restaurant that has been open less than a month is considered a \"First Impression.\" Meaning, we want to bring you the latest and greatest from around SF but acknowledge that new spots may have some kinks to work out. We keep that in mind, and you should, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/piqueos-exterior-780548.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/piqueos-exterior-780544.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Is Peruvian the new \"it\" food? Judging by the slew of articles written about it in the last year, the answer is a resounding si. From the New York Times to \u003ca href=\"http://www.aracari.com/aracariperu/cuisine/images/2006_04_28USAToday_Ceviche.jpg\">USA Today\u003c/a>, from Gourmet to the \u003ca href=\"http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2006/05/09/AR2006050900337.html\">Washington Post\u003c/a>, it's getting a lot of buzz. Nuevo Latino cooking isn't new to San Francisco; we've been enjoying \u003ca href=\"http://www.frescasf.com\">Fresca\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.limon-sf.com\">Limon\u003c/a> for years. Nevertheless, three weeks after \u003ca href=\"http://www.piqueos.com\">Piqueo's\u003c/a> opened, I found myself winding my way up the pockmarked hills of Bernal Heights to see what the city's newest Peruvian place had to offer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/piqueos-interior-721462.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/piqueos-interior-721458.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If the swarms of hungry locals are any indication, Piqueo's is already a full-blown success. When my friend and I walked in, it was still light outside and the restaurant was only half-full, but for the better part of dinner, I watched the seemingly never-ending crowd on the sidewalk outside replenish itself every time a lucky group sat down. Undoubtedly, one of the secrets to Piqueo's instantaneous popularity is the mere virtue of its existence: this is a part of town with very few chic restaurants. Chef/owner Carlos Altamirano and his wife Shu (who also own \u003ca href=\"http://www.mochicasf.com\">Mochica\u003c/a>) put a lot of care into making the space sophisticated and inviting. Arched doorways divide the restaurant into three rooms, and the many windows keep it feeling light and airy. Vivid photographs of modern-day Peru hang on brick red walls, and a lemon tree blooms on the granite bar in front of the petite open kitchen. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/picadillos-798783.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/picadillos-798781.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Piqueo's bills itself as \"contemporary Peruvian cuisine,\" which seems to mean a mix of California-grown ingredients and items flown in from Altamirano's native Peru -- the giant corn that appears in nearly every dish, for instance -- combined in authentic Peruvian preparations. The menu is divided into piqueos (small plates), ceviches, and entrées. Every meal begins with a small bowl of what they call picadillos, a mixture of fried whole garbanzo beans and dried corn kernels showered with flecks of tomato, red onion, cilantro and queso fresco. It was served with a spoon and nothing else, so we ended up eating it with our fingers. If heroin is anything like these zingy niblets, I can see how you might not notice when Social Services takes your kid. Thank God my friend was dieting -- I got to eat most of the bowl myself. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/ceviche-717095.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/ceviche-717091.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Since ceviche is a signature Peruvian dish, we started with the ceviche mixto ($14). Like nearly everything we ordered, it was dramatically plated. Two mussels on the half-shell and a tangle of raw red onion sheltered chunks of halibut, squid, and prawns. The lime marinade was brash and spicy thanks to aji limo and rocoto, red Peruvian chilies, and we found ourselves wishing for a spoon to better lap it up. The bright coral prawns were the best part of the dish, and if I went again, I'd simply order the ceviche de camarones.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/potato-salad-741219.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/potato-salad-741216.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After one bite, I dismissed the choclo peruano ($9) as too much like the picadillos to be worth ordering separately. But the cold salad of giant Peruvian corn, chunks of queso fresco, tomatoes, red onions, and lemon-oregano dressing eventually won me over. Though its flavors are indeed similar -- it's practically the same dish, except for the fried garbanzos -- it provided a cool and spirited contrast to the warm dishes we ordered. Word to the wise: it's hard to avoid palate fatigue when so many dishes are seasoned with the same spices and flavors, so order carefully.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/brochetts-757201.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/brochetts-757199.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Our waitress raved about the anticuchon ($10), skewered sirloin brochettes drizzled with sweet and spicy BBQ-style panca sauce, but we found the meat overcooked and the sauce salty beyond reason. I simply couldn't finish what I put on my plate. It was also one-dimensional, save for the delectable puddle of avocado crema, which might have rescued a properly seasoned rendition from monotony. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/plantains-779067.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/plantains-779063.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Other than the picadillos, our favorite dish of the night was a plate of fried plantains in an orange-cinnamon glaze ($7). I'm not much for bananas, but I have adored plantains since I first tried them in an El Salvadoran restaurant with a heap of black beans and tangy sour cream on the side. As our waitress warned us, these are sweet enough to be dessert, so we decided to eat them last. From the caramelized sugars in the sauce to the slightly sour, creamy mash of the platanitos, every bite was bliss.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/garlic-shrimp-700562.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/garlic-shrimp-700560.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Unfortunately, we'd forgotten about the garlic shrimp ($10) still coming our way. After dessert, it was hard to go back, and when I woke up with vampire-slaying breath the next morning, I sort of wished I hadn't. Still, the shrimp were nicely cooked and the griddled bread was the perfect sponge for all that garlicky sauce. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Our waitress was knowledgeable and friendly, and any small flubs in service -- the lack of changed plates between courses, the traffic jam of dishes sent out too quickly by the kitchen -- should work themselves out as Piqueo's gets through opening month madness. Even if they don't, I'm already craving those picadillos.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Piqueo's\u003cbr>830 Cortland Avenue\u003cbr>San Francisco\u003cbr>(415) 282-8812\u003cbr>Open for dinner 7 nights a week\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Cafe Majestic Lives up to its Name",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/CM-exterior-788477.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/CM-exterior-788471.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I received an email inviting me to a new restaurant with an unknown chef serving local, seasonal Cal-French cuisine, what did I do? I yawned. Shuffled a few papers. Clicked over to \u003ca href=\"http://perezhilton.com/\">Perez Hilton\u003c/a> to read about Britney's rumored lipo. That kind of menu is a dime a dozen in this town. But then I said yes anyway.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After having eaten at \u003ca href=\"http://www.thehotelmajestic.com/restaurant.html\">Café Majestic\u003c/a>, all I can say is yum, yum, yum.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Full disclosure: my meal was comped. These days, there's a lot of debate in (\u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2007/03/25/MNGV9ORDSH1.DTL\">and out of\u003c/a>) the blogosphere about the ethics of reviewing restaurants. Big publications can afford for their critics to eat out anonymously multiple times. Small publications can't, and when I go to dinner, even if it's for work, I usually pay my own way. When a new restaurant opens, they often invite media guests to enjoy dinner on them. There is no obligation to write a single word about their restaurant, and I often don't, nor do I sugarcoat my opinions. Two rules of the road when I write about a media dinner: I will always tell you it was free, and I will never comment on the service. It's impossible to judge if my treatment will be a fair representation of the average. Now let's continue.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Café Majestic resides in the \u003ca href=\"http://www.thehotelmajestic.com/\">Hotel Majestic\u003c/a>, a century-old building in Pac Heights with furnishings that evoke a bygone era and a cozy bar downstairs that boasts a collection of rare butterflies (pinned to boards, not fluttering around). The restaurant was closed for four years, and after a million dollar renovation, the new owners reopened it six months ago, and brought on chef Ian Begg in January.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As soon as I entered the dining room, I was happy. Am I the only one who's sick of exposed red brick walls, communal tables, and concrete floors? Café Majestic is elegant but not fussy. Cream walls are hung with pen and ink sketches and subtle gold accents trace the fabric of plush banquettes. Look closely and you'll notice white porcelain dogs everywhere -- flanking the left side of the restaurant or on a decorative table -- and it becomes clear the owners are the kind of people who would tongue kiss their prized Corgis. Dressy attire is appropriate here, and again I say hallelujah! There are only so many more times I can force on my thong-baring, ankle-hugging jeans before I snap and cut them to shreds with nail scissors. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The meal began with a Brobdingnagian amuse bouche: asparagus gazpacho with a \"caviar\" of day boat scallops, cucumbers, Meyer lemon and Fresno chili. It was too lemony, and I didn't really want to finish it, which led to a debate with my boyfriend about size. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He says: bigger is better.\u003cbr>She says: good things come in small packages. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Our first course was a dozen Marin Miyagis ($36) with lime mignonette. The substitution of lime for the classic champagne or white wine vinegar was magical and refreshing, and it brightened up the sauce without overpowering the oysters' delicate, briny flavors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Arugula, Fuji apples, blue cheese, and a walnut vinaigrette ($9) sounds dull, I know; after all, you can find some version of this fruit/cheese/nut salad almost \u003ca href=\"http://www.wendys.com/food/Family.jsp?family=3\">anywhere\u003c/a>. But I was in the mood for a light start to the evening, and the salad was beautifully balanced and dressed with restraint. The Fuji slivers were so thin, they were translucent. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We were so tempted by the sautéed potato gnocchi, cipollini onions, white truffle oil, roasted garlic cream, asparagus ($17) that we begged for a half-portion just to taste. What might have been a gut-busting dairy bomb in less skilled hands was light as a feather. (Maybe two feathers.) The gnocchi were fluffy and the delicate cream sauce was infused with deep, sweet notes of roasted garlic and onion. Though \u003ca href=\"http://www.tablehopper.com\">one food writer\u003c/a> I know calls truffle oil \"cheap thrills,\" this dish proves there is a time and a place. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It also illustrates both the flairs and the flaws of the Café Majestic kitchen: Begg is a young and talented chef, but he plays it safe too often. Dishes like grilled Hawaiian ono, pea shoots, green garlic, sea urchin cream, chili oil ($28) prove that he doesn't have to. I loved the uni's subtle sea-kissed sweetness, and there was just enough chili oil to keep the lusciousness in check. Pea shoots, a food I generally avoid, added just the right crunch and bitterness, and I gobbled every last one. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Grilled \u003ca href=\"http://www.mountainrivervenison.co.nz/page.php?page_id=story\">Mountain River Farms\u003c/a> venison loin ($28) is decidedly un-local -- it comes from New Zealand -- but my boyfriend declared it the best he's ever eaten. Its raspberry-pink flesh was tender and free of the gaminess venison is often cursed with. Bitter endive and blood orange marmalade gave a one-two punch, and a snowfall of pine nuts added creaminess. The fiddlehead ferns coiled on top were a welcome reminder of spring in an otherwise wintry dish. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was disappointed with dessert. The Medjool date tarte ($8) was simply too sweet. A flat pastry disc was topped with a thick layer of pureed dates and star anise ice cream, then drizzled with Marshall Farms honey. I loved the Middle Eastern nod, but the dish needed something tangy to save it from itself. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>General manager and wine director Ryan Maxey chose flattering wine matches for the food -- a 2006 Condes de Albarei Albarino Rias Baixas for the ono, a 2004 Santa Barbara Vineyards Syrah from Santa Ynez Valley for the venison. More than his wine pairings, though, we loved his enthusiasm and southern hospitality.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With a grown-up ambiance and captivating cooking, Café Majestic has a lot to offer. If chef Begg would give freer reign to his more inspired touches, it could just become one of San Francisco's most exciting new restaurants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Café Majestic\u003cbr>1500 Sutter Street\u003cbr>San Francisco\u003cbr>(415) 441-1280\u003cbr>Open 7 days a week for breakfast and dinner\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/CM-exterior-788477.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/CM-exterior-788471.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I received an email inviting me to a new restaurant with an unknown chef serving local, seasonal Cal-French cuisine, what did I do? I yawned. Shuffled a few papers. Clicked over to \u003ca href=\"http://perezhilton.com/\">Perez Hilton\u003c/a> to read about Britney's rumored lipo. That kind of menu is a dime a dozen in this town. But then I said yes anyway.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After having eaten at \u003ca href=\"http://www.thehotelmajestic.com/restaurant.html\">Café Majestic\u003c/a>, all I can say is yum, yum, yum.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Full disclosure: my meal was comped. These days, there's a lot of debate in (\u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2007/03/25/MNGV9ORDSH1.DTL\">and out of\u003c/a>) the blogosphere about the ethics of reviewing restaurants. Big publications can afford for their critics to eat out anonymously multiple times. Small publications can't, and when I go to dinner, even if it's for work, I usually pay my own way. When a new restaurant opens, they often invite media guests to enjoy dinner on them. There is no obligation to write a single word about their restaurant, and I often don't, nor do I sugarcoat my opinions. Two rules of the road when I write about a media dinner: I will always tell you it was free, and I will never comment on the service. It's impossible to judge if my treatment will be a fair representation of the average. Now let's continue.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Café Majestic resides in the \u003ca href=\"http://www.thehotelmajestic.com/\">Hotel Majestic\u003c/a>, a century-old building in Pac Heights with furnishings that evoke a bygone era and a cozy bar downstairs that boasts a collection of rare butterflies (pinned to boards, not fluttering around). The restaurant was closed for four years, and after a million dollar renovation, the new owners reopened it six months ago, and brought on chef Ian Begg in January.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As soon as I entered the dining room, I was happy. Am I the only one who's sick of exposed red brick walls, communal tables, and concrete floors? Café Majestic is elegant but not fussy. Cream walls are hung with pen and ink sketches and subtle gold accents trace the fabric of plush banquettes. Look closely and you'll notice white porcelain dogs everywhere -- flanking the left side of the restaurant or on a decorative table -- and it becomes clear the owners are the kind of people who would tongue kiss their prized Corgis. Dressy attire is appropriate here, and again I say hallelujah! There are only so many more times I can force on my thong-baring, ankle-hugging jeans before I snap and cut them to shreds with nail scissors. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The meal began with a Brobdingnagian amuse bouche: asparagus gazpacho with a \"caviar\" of day boat scallops, cucumbers, Meyer lemon and Fresno chili. It was too lemony, and I didn't really want to finish it, which led to a debate with my boyfriend about size. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He says: bigger is better.\u003cbr>She says: good things come in small packages. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Our first course was a dozen Marin Miyagis ($36) with lime mignonette. The substitution of lime for the classic champagne or white wine vinegar was magical and refreshing, and it brightened up the sauce without overpowering the oysters' delicate, briny flavors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Arugula, Fuji apples, blue cheese, and a walnut vinaigrette ($9) sounds dull, I know; after all, you can find some version of this fruit/cheese/nut salad almost \u003ca href=\"http://www.wendys.com/food/Family.jsp?family=3\">anywhere\u003c/a>. But I was in the mood for a light start to the evening, and the salad was beautifully balanced and dressed with restraint. The Fuji slivers were so thin, they were translucent. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We were so tempted by the sautéed potato gnocchi, cipollini onions, white truffle oil, roasted garlic cream, asparagus ($17) that we begged for a half-portion just to taste. What might have been a gut-busting dairy bomb in less skilled hands was light as a feather. (Maybe two feathers.) The gnocchi were fluffy and the delicate cream sauce was infused with deep, sweet notes of roasted garlic and onion. Though \u003ca href=\"http://www.tablehopper.com\">one food writer\u003c/a> I know calls truffle oil \"cheap thrills,\" this dish proves there is a time and a place. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It also illustrates both the flairs and the flaws of the Café Majestic kitchen: Begg is a young and talented chef, but he plays it safe too often. Dishes like grilled Hawaiian ono, pea shoots, green garlic, sea urchin cream, chili oil ($28) prove that he doesn't have to. I loved the uni's subtle sea-kissed sweetness, and there was just enough chili oil to keep the lusciousness in check. Pea shoots, a food I generally avoid, added just the right crunch and bitterness, and I gobbled every last one. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Grilled \u003ca href=\"http://www.mountainrivervenison.co.nz/page.php?page_id=story\">Mountain River Farms\u003c/a> venison loin ($28) is decidedly un-local -- it comes from New Zealand -- but my boyfriend declared it the best he's ever eaten. Its raspberry-pink flesh was tender and free of the gaminess venison is often cursed with. Bitter endive and blood orange marmalade gave a one-two punch, and a snowfall of pine nuts added creaminess. The fiddlehead ferns coiled on top were a welcome reminder of spring in an otherwise wintry dish. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was disappointed with dessert. The Medjool date tarte ($8) was simply too sweet. A flat pastry disc was topped with a thick layer of pureed dates and star anise ice cream, then drizzled with Marshall Farms honey. I loved the Middle Eastern nod, but the dish needed something tangy to save it from itself. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>General manager and wine director Ryan Maxey chose flattering wine matches for the food -- a 2006 Condes de Albarei Albarino Rias Baixas for the ono, a 2004 Santa Barbara Vineyards Syrah from Santa Ynez Valley for the venison. More than his wine pairings, though, we loved his enthusiasm and southern hospitality.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With a grown-up ambiance and captivating cooking, Café Majestic has a lot to offer. If chef Begg would give freer reign to his more inspired touches, it could just become one of San Francisco's most exciting new restaurants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Café Majestic\u003cbr>1500 Sutter Street\u003cbr>San Francisco\u003cbr>(415) 441-1280\u003cbr>Open 7 days a week for breakfast and dinner\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Presidio Social Club: Hostess with the Mostest",
"title": "Presidio Social Club: Hostess with the Mostest",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/PSC_exterior-784809.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/PSC_exterior-784807.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"One cannot think well, love well, sleep well, if one has not dined well.\" Virginia Woolf\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Maybe. But sometimes it's more important to have fun. When it is, \u003ca href=\"http://www.presidiosocialclub.com/\">Presidio Social Club\u003c/a> is the place to go. It offers revamped American classics, most of which don't merit more than a shrug, but the atmosphere makes it a winner anyway.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>From the outside, PSC -- its self-assigned urban moniker -- looks like the old clapboard barracks that it is. An old-fashioned mailbox from \u003ca href=\"http://www.visitmayberry.com\">Mayberry\u003c/a> days hangs on the porch, and just inside the doorway stands a drum set painted Technicolor red. The entire place is a nostalgia-lover's fantasy of the giddy pre-war years when woman wore their hair in elaborate pin curls, men said things like, \"Aw, shucks,\" and Big Band was king. Ceiling fans resembling airplane propellers whir slowly overhead, mimicking lazy, sweat-soaked summer days, and potted palms sweep the floor with wide green leaves. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I walked into this carefree atmosphere a few weeks ago, roughly four months after opening. The crowd was only partially anachronistic, with just as many white-haired ladies and gents \"dressed for dinner\" as young LucasArts employees in flats and skinny jeans swarming the marble-topped bar. Even the communal table, reserved for walk-ins, was full. The hostess escorted my friend and me to a roomy two-top in the side room, and it was a great table -- close enough to ride the buzz of the main room without having to endure its noise.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/pink_lemonade-762834.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/pink_lemonade-762831.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One look at the cocktail list got my feet tapping. I was tempted by the French 75 ($9) with cognac, champagne and lemon juice, as well as the Pisco Punch ($8) with Pisco (a South American brandy), pineapple, and bitters, but settled on the lip-smacking Presidio Pink Lemonade ($8). Vodka infused with \u003ca href=\"http://ssil.uoregon.edu/hum399/gallery/week7/Buddha's_Hand_fruit.jpg\">Buddha's hand\u003c/a>, the \u003ca href=\"http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0099487/\">Edward Scissorhands\u003c/a> of the citrus world, was blended with limoncello, simple syrup, and a splash of Campari. It was sweet-tart, just like the ghost of a girl I saw flirting with the dashing officer in my mind's eye.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/shrimp_cocktail-786419.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/shrimp_cocktail-786417.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>From the \"hors d'oeuvres\" section of the menu -- the name another quaint touch -- we ordered PSC Seafood Cocktail with shrimp ($7.95). I grew up in the South and in our family, shrimp cocktail was considered terribly posh. My grandmother even had special dishes for the occasion. I loved PSC's presentation -- a pile of oyster crackers and fork-speared limes on the side -- but what was described as \"Mission taqueria-style\" tomato juice with chilies was really a barely seasoned swimming pool for baby shrimp. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/grilled_cheese-705014.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/grilled_cheese-705012.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Gruyere cheese toast ($8.50) was a grilled cheese sandwich, plain and simple. The bread was so buttery, it overpowered the Gruyere's nutty flavor. The fondue tomato dip livened things up, even if that combination can be found on roughly 99% of San Francisco menus right now. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/caesar-735884.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/caesar-735879.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The PSCaesar ($9.50) looked like a Caesar salad but the creamy dressing tasted more like Ranch. It didn't make it any less good, just a bit of false advertising.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/pasta-760914.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/pasta-760907.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Next up was the \"Broadway & Columbus\" ($13.95), an homage to two of the City's most iconic neighborhoods, Chinatown and North Beach. Unfortunately, it looked and tasted like a poor attempt at using up leftovers. Wide egg noodles in a bowl of orange zest-dotted broth were topped with chunks of fatty duck. The pasta was okay on its own in a soothing, I'm-not-feeling-well kind of way, but one bite of bland, greasy duck was plenty. The dish simply never came together.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now ask me if I care? The drinks were tasty, the fun-loving atmosphere infectious and the prices hard to beat. By this time I was enjoying an Alamos 2005 Malbec ($6) by the glass. When our waiter recommended it, I admitted I was wary of ordering the cheapest wine on the menu. (Am I the only one?) He convinced me to order it anyway, and I loved it for its raspberry flavors layered with spice and long, velvety finish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/cupcakes-728063.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/cupcakes-728060.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All I can say is that PSC saved the best for last. Like \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2007/04/pres-vi-black-sheep-of-family.jsp\">Pres a Vi\u003c/a>, they've hopped on the dessert tasting bandwagon -- a trend I'd like to see more of -- with four full-sized desserts ($7), four dessert \"sides\" ($5), and a mix-and-match approach with one of each ($10). We shared three chocolate cupcakes whose barely cooked insides were a dead giveaway for their inspiration -- molten chocolate cake -- but you can't go wrong with something that's fresh from the oven. The top looked like decorative beads on a cut glass serving dish and added a wonderful crunch, while the shot glass of hand-whipped cream was a cool foil. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Service was a mix. Our waiter had the wink and swagger of a good ole boy, and I had to wonder if he was flirting or stealing nips from the bar since we rarely saw him, but the food runner and busboys were both on top of their game. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At meal's end, the critic in me may have shrugged, but the rest of me had fallen in love.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Presidio Social Club\u003cbr>Building 563 Ruger Street in the Presidio\u003cbr>San Francisco \u003cbr>(415) 885-1888\u003cbr>Open Monday - Saturday for dinner\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"description": ""One cannot think well, love well, sleep well, if one has not dined well." Virginia Woolf Maybe. But sometimes it's more important to have fun. When it is, Presidio Social Club is the place to go. It offers revamped American classics, most of which don't merit more than a shrug, but the atmosphere makes it",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/PSC_exterior-784809.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/PSC_exterior-784807.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"One cannot think well, love well, sleep well, if one has not dined well.\" Virginia Woolf\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Maybe. But sometimes it's more important to have fun. When it is, \u003ca href=\"http://www.presidiosocialclub.com/\">Presidio Social Club\u003c/a> is the place to go. It offers revamped American classics, most of which don't merit more than a shrug, but the atmosphere makes it a winner anyway.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>From the outside, PSC -- its self-assigned urban moniker -- looks like the old clapboard barracks that it is. An old-fashioned mailbox from \u003ca href=\"http://www.visitmayberry.com\">Mayberry\u003c/a> days hangs on the porch, and just inside the doorway stands a drum set painted Technicolor red. The entire place is a nostalgia-lover's fantasy of the giddy pre-war years when woman wore their hair in elaborate pin curls, men said things like, \"Aw, shucks,\" and Big Band was king. Ceiling fans resembling airplane propellers whir slowly overhead, mimicking lazy, sweat-soaked summer days, and potted palms sweep the floor with wide green leaves. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I walked into this carefree atmosphere a few weeks ago, roughly four months after opening. The crowd was only partially anachronistic, with just as many white-haired ladies and gents \"dressed for dinner\" as young LucasArts employees in flats and skinny jeans swarming the marble-topped bar. Even the communal table, reserved for walk-ins, was full. The hostess escorted my friend and me to a roomy two-top in the side room, and it was a great table -- close enough to ride the buzz of the main room without having to endure its noise.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/pink_lemonade-762834.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/pink_lemonade-762831.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One look at the cocktail list got my feet tapping. I was tempted by the French 75 ($9) with cognac, champagne and lemon juice, as well as the Pisco Punch ($8) with Pisco (a South American brandy), pineapple, and bitters, but settled on the lip-smacking Presidio Pink Lemonade ($8). Vodka infused with \u003ca href=\"http://ssil.uoregon.edu/hum399/gallery/week7/Buddha's_Hand_fruit.jpg\">Buddha's hand\u003c/a>, the \u003ca href=\"http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0099487/\">Edward Scissorhands\u003c/a> of the citrus world, was blended with limoncello, simple syrup, and a splash of Campari. It was sweet-tart, just like the ghost of a girl I saw flirting with the dashing officer in my mind's eye.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/shrimp_cocktail-786419.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/shrimp_cocktail-786417.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>From the \"hors d'oeuvres\" section of the menu -- the name another quaint touch -- we ordered PSC Seafood Cocktail with shrimp ($7.95). I grew up in the South and in our family, shrimp cocktail was considered terribly posh. My grandmother even had special dishes for the occasion. I loved PSC's presentation -- a pile of oyster crackers and fork-speared limes on the side -- but what was described as \"Mission taqueria-style\" tomato juice with chilies was really a barely seasoned swimming pool for baby shrimp. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/grilled_cheese-705014.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/grilled_cheese-705012.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Gruyere cheese toast ($8.50) was a grilled cheese sandwich, plain and simple. The bread was so buttery, it overpowered the Gruyere's nutty flavor. The fondue tomato dip livened things up, even if that combination can be found on roughly 99% of San Francisco menus right now. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/caesar-735884.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/caesar-735879.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The PSCaesar ($9.50) looked like a Caesar salad but the creamy dressing tasted more like Ranch. It didn't make it any less good, just a bit of false advertising.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/pasta-760914.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/pasta-760907.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Next up was the \"Broadway & Columbus\" ($13.95), an homage to two of the City's most iconic neighborhoods, Chinatown and North Beach. Unfortunately, it looked and tasted like a poor attempt at using up leftovers. Wide egg noodles in a bowl of orange zest-dotted broth were topped with chunks of fatty duck. The pasta was okay on its own in a soothing, I'm-not-feeling-well kind of way, but one bite of bland, greasy duck was plenty. The dish simply never came together.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now ask me if I care? The drinks were tasty, the fun-loving atmosphere infectious and the prices hard to beat. By this time I was enjoying an Alamos 2005 Malbec ($6) by the glass. When our waiter recommended it, I admitted I was wary of ordering the cheapest wine on the menu. (Am I the only one?) He convinced me to order it anyway, and I loved it for its raspberry flavors layered with spice and long, velvety finish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/cupcakes-728063.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/cupcakes-728060.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All I can say is that PSC saved the best for last. Like \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2007/04/pres-vi-black-sheep-of-family.jsp\">Pres a Vi\u003c/a>, they've hopped on the dessert tasting bandwagon -- a trend I'd like to see more of -- with four full-sized desserts ($7), four dessert \"sides\" ($5), and a mix-and-match approach with one of each ($10). We shared three chocolate cupcakes whose barely cooked insides were a dead giveaway for their inspiration -- molten chocolate cake -- but you can't go wrong with something that's fresh from the oven. The top looked like decorative beads on a cut glass serving dish and added a wonderful crunch, while the shot glass of hand-whipped cream was a cool foil. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Service was a mix. Our waiter had the wink and swagger of a good ole boy, and I had to wonder if he was flirting or stealing nips from the bar since we rarely saw him, but the food runner and busboys were both on top of their game. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At meal's end, the critic in me may have shrugged, but the rest of me had fallen in love.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Presidio Social Club\u003cbr>Building 563 Ruger Street in the Presidio\u003cbr>San Francisco \u003cbr>(415) 885-1888\u003cbr>Open Monday - Saturday for dinner\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/Attune-bar-743271.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/Attune-bar-743253.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I am what is known as a germaphobe. (See also: obsessive-compulsive disorder.) During cold and flu season, I never venture out without my purse-sized hand sanitizer. Sick friends know to bow out of dinner if I'm hosting, and I have been known to disinfect seatbelts and radio knobs after a cold-ridden colleague rides in my car. The last time my boyfriend had the stomach flu, I instituted a quarantine so rigorous that he was banned from my bed and bathroom until all surfaces and linens could be bleach-cleaned. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Given my anti-germ proclivities, what on Earth could make me willingly ingest 10 billion living bacteria every single day? The promise of a souped-up immune system. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That, and a bar of chocolate. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'd never heard of probiotics until two months ago, when a sample box of \u003ca href=\"http://www.attunefoods.com\">Attune Food's wellness bars\u003c/a> arrived on my doorstep. (Full disclosure: they sent them free of charge, a common and ethical way of introducing members of the media to a new product.) As I read through the literature, I learned that probiotics exist naturally in foods like blue cheese, yogurt, and tofu, and they've been around in supplement form for years. But now companies from \u003ca href=\"http://www.dannon.com/dn/dnstore/cgi-bin/ProdDetEv_Cat_240861_SubCat_240857_NavRoot_200_NavID_856555_ProdID_1828712.htm\">Dannon (Activia yogurt)\u003c/a> to \u003ca href=\"http://www.kashi.com/ourfood/Vive/ProbioticCereals/Default.aspx\">Kashi (Vive cereal)\u003c/a> to Attune are adding them to foods. Here's why: preliminary research suggests that these friendly bacteria may be able to prevent cancer, tooth decay, and allergies; lower blood pressure and cholesterol; reduce the uncomfortable effects of lactose intolerance and irritable bowel syndrome (IBS); and keep a healthy digestive tract working smoothly. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I have to admit, I was intrigued. Who hasn't had the occasional upset stomach after an orgy of rich foods and untold bottles of wine? And, okay, I'll admit it -- I had visions of becoming a sort of Anti-Germ Superwoman, able to leap tall buildings in a single bound and ride Muni in December without gloves and a gas mask. So I started snooping around to learn more.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To understand how probiotics work, we have to talk about something not normally considered polite food blog conversation: the colon. Our intestines are full of bacteria -- 100 trillion, to be exact -- that help us digest fiber, absorb nutrients from food, and eliminate what we don't need. They also play a significant role in our immune system, killing off harmful bacteria. When these gut flora get out of balance -- usually a result of stress, illness, antibiotics, or alcohol -- disaster can ensue. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Probiotics help reinstate that balance by replenishing our intestines with good bacteria. They are often taken hand in hand with prebiotics, a kind of fiber that feeds the good bacteria while the colony repopulates itself.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In order to help you, foods containing probiotics have to meet three requirements:\u003cbr>1. The probiotics have to be alive when you ingest them.\u003cbr>2. They have to survive the digestive process and reach your intestines.\u003cbr>3. They have to be in sufficient quantities to have an effect.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are several different strains of probiotics but all of them have unpronounceable names. Two of the most popular are lactobacillus and bifidobacterium. Different strains do different things, and the scientific jury is still out on their overall potential. Some researchers have seen promising results on a number of fronts from preventing allergies in children to lowering blood pressure, while others claim that probiotics are still not well understood. But the one thing nearly everyone seems to agree on is that they can help keep your digestive tract functioning without any snafus.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The small print that accompanied Attune's package indicated that I should eat one bar every day for 14 days to judge the full effect. It also stated that \"some people may notice minor intestinal discomfort for the first few days.\" Hmm. One woman's minor intestinal discomfort could be another woman's oh-dear-God-why-me? So I emailed the company and asked them to be more specific. Their reply? Possible bloating and/or gas. I admit that I stared at that box of chocolate bars for a few days. I felt like a lab rat, but the potential benefits -- fewer colds! -- eventually outweighed any worries of unwelcome flatulence. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I unwrapped a Cool Mint Chocolate bar and took a bite. CRUNCH. The first thing I noticed was that it was delicious. I'd expected it to taste like something that was good for me -- mealy, slimy, or chewy all came to mind. But this was creamy chocolate bliss over crisp rice. A few days was all it took to hook me. I felt better -- no intestinal discomfort at all -- and I've been eating them ever since. I've also conducted a small and wholly unscientific focus group on my own. Three friends with ailments that veer from the serious (IBS) to the annoying (occasional constipation) to the mundane (allergies) have tried them. It's not cold season yet, so I can't tell you if they'll keep us healthy or not, but three out of four of us are still eating them -- \"germs\" and all.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Note: This post should not be considered a substitute for professional medical advice.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/Attune-bar-743271.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/Attune-bar-743253.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I am what is known as a germaphobe. (See also: obsessive-compulsive disorder.) During cold and flu season, I never venture out without my purse-sized hand sanitizer. Sick friends know to bow out of dinner if I'm hosting, and I have been known to disinfect seatbelts and radio knobs after a cold-ridden colleague rides in my car. The last time my boyfriend had the stomach flu, I instituted a quarantine so rigorous that he was banned from my bed and bathroom until all surfaces and linens could be bleach-cleaned. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Given my anti-germ proclivities, what on Earth could make me willingly ingest 10 billion living bacteria every single day? The promise of a souped-up immune system. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That, and a bar of chocolate. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'd never heard of probiotics until two months ago, when a sample box of \u003ca href=\"http://www.attunefoods.com\">Attune Food's wellness bars\u003c/a> arrived on my doorstep. (Full disclosure: they sent them free of charge, a common and ethical way of introducing members of the media to a new product.) As I read through the literature, I learned that probiotics exist naturally in foods like blue cheese, yogurt, and tofu, and they've been around in supplement form for years. But now companies from \u003ca href=\"http://www.dannon.com/dn/dnstore/cgi-bin/ProdDetEv_Cat_240861_SubCat_240857_NavRoot_200_NavID_856555_ProdID_1828712.htm\">Dannon (Activia yogurt)\u003c/a> to \u003ca href=\"http://www.kashi.com/ourfood/Vive/ProbioticCereals/Default.aspx\">Kashi (Vive cereal)\u003c/a> to Attune are adding them to foods. Here's why: preliminary research suggests that these friendly bacteria may be able to prevent cancer, tooth decay, and allergies; lower blood pressure and cholesterol; reduce the uncomfortable effects of lactose intolerance and irritable bowel syndrome (IBS); and keep a healthy digestive tract working smoothly. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I have to admit, I was intrigued. Who hasn't had the occasional upset stomach after an orgy of rich foods and untold bottles of wine? And, okay, I'll admit it -- I had visions of becoming a sort of Anti-Germ Superwoman, able to leap tall buildings in a single bound and ride Muni in December without gloves and a gas mask. So I started snooping around to learn more.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To understand how probiotics work, we have to talk about something not normally considered polite food blog conversation: the colon. Our intestines are full of bacteria -- 100 trillion, to be exact -- that help us digest fiber, absorb nutrients from food, and eliminate what we don't need. They also play a significant role in our immune system, killing off harmful bacteria. When these gut flora get out of balance -- usually a result of stress, illness, antibiotics, or alcohol -- disaster can ensue. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Probiotics help reinstate that balance by replenishing our intestines with good bacteria. They are often taken hand in hand with prebiotics, a kind of fiber that feeds the good bacteria while the colony repopulates itself.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In order to help you, foods containing probiotics have to meet three requirements:\u003cbr>1. The probiotics have to be alive when you ingest them.\u003cbr>2. They have to survive the digestive process and reach your intestines.\u003cbr>3. They have to be in sufficient quantities to have an effect.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are several different strains of probiotics but all of them have unpronounceable names. Two of the most popular are lactobacillus and bifidobacterium. Different strains do different things, and the scientific jury is still out on their overall potential. Some researchers have seen promising results on a number of fronts from preventing allergies in children to lowering blood pressure, while others claim that probiotics are still not well understood. But the one thing nearly everyone seems to agree on is that they can help keep your digestive tract functioning without any snafus.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The small print that accompanied Attune's package indicated that I should eat one bar every day for 14 days to judge the full effect. It also stated that \"some people may notice minor intestinal discomfort for the first few days.\" Hmm. One woman's minor intestinal discomfort could be another woman's oh-dear-God-why-me? So I emailed the company and asked them to be more specific. Their reply? Possible bloating and/or gas. I admit that I stared at that box of chocolate bars for a few days. I felt like a lab rat, but the potential benefits -- fewer colds! -- eventually outweighed any worries of unwelcome flatulence. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I unwrapped a Cool Mint Chocolate bar and took a bite. CRUNCH. The first thing I noticed was that it was delicious. I'd expected it to taste like something that was good for me -- mealy, slimy, or chewy all came to mind. But this was creamy chocolate bliss over crisp rice. A few days was all it took to hook me. I felt better -- no intestinal discomfort at all -- and I've been eating them ever since. I've also conducted a small and wholly unscientific focus group on my own. Three friends with ailments that veer from the serious (IBS) to the annoying (occasional constipation) to the mundane (allergies) have tried them. It's not cold season yet, so I can't tell you if they'll keep us healthy or not, but three out of four of us are still eating them -- \"germs\" and all.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Note: This post should not be considered a substitute for professional medical advice.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"info": "Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.",
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"soldout": {
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