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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/06/truck-sign500.jpg\" alt=\"Primos Parrilla signage\" title=\"Primos Parrilla signage\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-14469\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Emeryville may have its charms--the \u003ca href=\"http://articles.sfgate.com/2010-06-13/news/21908813_1_stories-chronicle-exclusive\">world's grooviest office\u003c/a>, an Apple store with parking, \u003ca href=\"http://www.rudyscantfailcafe.com/\">Rudy's Can't Fail Cafe\u003c/a>--but streetside barbecue was not among them. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, though, with the opening of \u003ca href=\"http://www.vamosprimos.com\">Primo's Parrilla\u003c/a>, Argentine asado has come to the neighborhood, as authentic as it can get some six thousand miles from the pampas. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Growing up in Argentina, Primo's Parrilla owner and \u003ci>asador\u003c/i> Javier Sandes learned early on that food was what brought the family together. His father grilled; his mother cooked, and everyone, friends and extended family alike, would gather around the table to talk and laugh and eat. Good meat, like good chimichurri sauce, was always there, rubbed simply with salt and cooked slowly over the coals so the fat melted into the meat, basting it from within. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When Sandes moved to the Bay Area, he brought with him his father's grilling skills and his mother's love of feeding a crowd. Soon he was making Argentine-style barbecue in the backyards of friends all around Oakland. One of those friends was Walker Bass, who told Sandes that he really should go into the barbecuing business full-time. Bass, along with Sere Peterson and Hammad Atassi, became an investor and part of the team, and soon Primo's Parrilla was born: a truck-and-grill operation bringing lunchtime asado to the people of Emeryville five days a week. (The truck, the crew and the meat are also available for private parties and events.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/06/primos-javier500.jpg\" alt=\"Javier Sandes\" title=\"Javier Sandes\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-14471\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The first day, a guy who lived in the neighborhood showed up, having followed his nose--and the wafting allure of meat and smoke--from six blocks away. \"The smoke is our best advertisement,\" laughed Sandes as he spread glowing hardwood coals (a mixture of almond wood and mesquite) under a grill laden with butterflied chicken, whole tri-tips, and fat Italian sausages from Molinari's. Grilled, split and grilled again, the sausage is tucked into a chimichurri-smeared roll to make choripan ($9)--a frequent daily special that always sells out. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/06/primos-empanadas500.jpg\" alt=\"Primos empanadas\" title=\"Primos empanadas\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-14473\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Besides the choripan, there are hand-made, flaky-crusted empanadas ($3.50 each, 2 for $6), filled either with chopped chicken or a mixture of beef, onions, olives, and red peppers, redolent of cumin and similar to Cuban picadillo. Grilled chicken ($10), juicy and moist, is finished with splash of lemon juice, paired with a generous scoop of mashed sweet potatoes flecked with spinach, a lively green salad dotted with red pear tomatoes, bread and a plastic cup of vibrant chimichurri, without which no meat could be served in Argentina. Similar to Italian salsa verde, it's a chunky slurry of minced parsley, garlic, olive oil, and hot pepper. \"This batch has aged for about 3 weeks,\" Sandes points out. \"It just gets better the longer it ages.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The real piece de resistance, though, is the tri-tip ($12), with a well-muscled chewiness and a deeply beefy flavor. It's grass fed, pasture-raised meat from Tallgrass Beef, the closest Sandes can get to Argentine beef in this country. And for dessert? Alfajores ($2), flaky cookies oozing dulce de leche, made by local bakers Dolce Vita. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Twitter:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/VamosPrimos\">@VamosPrimos\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Facebook:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://www.facebook.com/pages/Primos-Parrilla/189805888912\">Primo's Parrilla\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Emeryville may have its charms--the world's grooviest office, an Apple store with parking, Rudy's Can't Fail Cafe--but streetside barbecue was not among them.\r\n\r\nNow, though, with the opening of Primo's Parrilla, Argentine asado has come to the neighborhood, as authentic as it can get some six thousand miles from the pampas. ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/06/truck-sign500.jpg\" alt=\"Primos Parrilla signage\" title=\"Primos Parrilla signage\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-14469\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Emeryville may have its charms--the \u003ca href=\"http://articles.sfgate.com/2010-06-13/news/21908813_1_stories-chronicle-exclusive\">world's grooviest office\u003c/a>, an Apple store with parking, \u003ca href=\"http://www.rudyscantfailcafe.com/\">Rudy's Can't Fail Cafe\u003c/a>--but streetside barbecue was not among them. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, though, with the opening of \u003ca href=\"http://www.vamosprimos.com\">Primo's Parrilla\u003c/a>, Argentine asado has come to the neighborhood, as authentic as it can get some six thousand miles from the pampas. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Growing up in Argentina, Primo's Parrilla owner and \u003ci>asador\u003c/i> Javier Sandes learned early on that food was what brought the family together. His father grilled; his mother cooked, and everyone, friends and extended family alike, would gather around the table to talk and laugh and eat. Good meat, like good chimichurri sauce, was always there, rubbed simply with salt and cooked slowly over the coals so the fat melted into the meat, basting it from within. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When Sandes moved to the Bay Area, he brought with him his father's grilling skills and his mother's love of feeding a crowd. Soon he was making Argentine-style barbecue in the backyards of friends all around Oakland. One of those friends was Walker Bass, who told Sandes that he really should go into the barbecuing business full-time. Bass, along with Sere Peterson and Hammad Atassi, became an investor and part of the team, and soon Primo's Parrilla was born: a truck-and-grill operation bringing lunchtime asado to the people of Emeryville five days a week. (The truck, the crew and the meat are also available for private parties and events.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/06/primos-javier500.jpg\" alt=\"Javier Sandes\" title=\"Javier Sandes\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-14471\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The first day, a guy who lived in the neighborhood showed up, having followed his nose--and the wafting allure of meat and smoke--from six blocks away. \"The smoke is our best advertisement,\" laughed Sandes as he spread glowing hardwood coals (a mixture of almond wood and mesquite) under a grill laden with butterflied chicken, whole tri-tips, and fat Italian sausages from Molinari's. Grilled, split and grilled again, the sausage is tucked into a chimichurri-smeared roll to make choripan ($9)--a frequent daily special that always sells out. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/06/primos-empanadas500.jpg\" alt=\"Primos empanadas\" title=\"Primos empanadas\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-14473\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Besides the choripan, there are hand-made, flaky-crusted empanadas ($3.50 each, 2 for $6), filled either with chopped chicken or a mixture of beef, onions, olives, and red peppers, redolent of cumin and similar to Cuban picadillo. Grilled chicken ($10), juicy and moist, is finished with splash of lemon juice, paired with a generous scoop of mashed sweet potatoes flecked with spinach, a lively green salad dotted with red pear tomatoes, bread and a plastic cup of vibrant chimichurri, without which no meat could be served in Argentina. Similar to Italian salsa verde, it's a chunky slurry of minced parsley, garlic, olive oil, and hot pepper. \"This batch has aged for about 3 weeks,\" Sandes points out. \"It just gets better the longer it ages.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The real piece de resistance, though, is the tri-tip ($12), with a well-muscled chewiness and a deeply beefy flavor. It's grass fed, pasture-raised meat from Tallgrass Beef, the closest Sandes can get to Argentine beef in this country. And for dessert? Alfajores ($2), flaky cookies oozing dulce de leche, made by local bakers Dolce Vita. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Twitter:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/VamosPrimos\">@VamosPrimos\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Facebook:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://www.facebook.com/pages/Primos-Parrilla/189805888912\">Primo's Parrilla\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "From the Street to the Supermarket",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/06/wfcartoon500.jpg\" alt=\"whole foods cartoon\" title=\"whole foods cartoon\" width=\"500\" height=\"385\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-14281\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Last week, I was not surprised when I read John Birdsall's S.F. Weekly \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.sfweekly.com/foodie/2010/06/how_do_you_know_when.php\">post\u003c/a> about Whole Foods' planned development of a \"street eats\" line. While the \u003ca href=\"http://www.theonion.com/\">Onion\u003c/a> headline-ready notion of packed station wagons zipping over to America's fastest-growing supermarket chain (on weekends, after the kids' soccer games, before trips to the pool, perhaps) to savor authentic street-cart fare made me chuckle, the movement has boomed so rapidly and robustly -- resonating from gastronomic hot-spots such as Portland and New York to smaller markets, leaping from local blogs to spreads in food magazines -- it's almost shocking it didn't break sooner. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Definitions of street-food vary. To some, street-food is literally simply food you buy on the street to eat as you venture walk from one place to another, on foot or by bike. It is sold via cart, van, or basket. You find it steaming from wheeled cases under lamp-posts outside a favorite Mission District bar, wafting from a row of tents at Alemany Farmers' Market, and hawked from busy Financial District corners. Convenience is at the heart of it. Whether you're tucking into a pizza crisped in a customized Weber, scooping holes in a crème brûlée with a compostable spoon, or enjoying a bao in the park, you feel as if your food is coming to you. More accurately, it happens to be where you end up going. While the form has evolved to include dishes normally eaten on proper tables, street-food is usually portable, easy to hold, ideally with one hand, while in motion. You eat it the moment after you buy it, ideally immediately. Street-food is also a genre. Just as cart-pushers relish coming up with unlikely delicacies to squeeze into the street food idiom, expanding the realm of known possibilities, street food traditions from all over the world suddenly have a hold on the food-obsessed public's heightened attention, and chefs are increasingly comfortable crediting, say, Burmese lettuce wraps, Indian puri, or salt-studded pretzels with influencing dishes served at their relatively expensive, artfully designed restaurants boasting public relations teams and Flash-heavy websites. When fancy food hits the streets, and quick bites head uptown, the translations swirl in both directions, potentially to the point of causing cacophony -- over-priced white tablecloth tacos that don't taste as good as they should, and gimmicky riffs on haute cuisine you'd just as soon feed to the bold, foraging pigeon sharing your bench. Still, there's the one-year-old \u003ca href=\"http://www.eatatstreet.com/\">Street\u003c/a> in Los Angeles, a stylish, hip restaurant celebrated for chef-owner (and long-time street-food advocate) Susan Feniger's inspired riffs on global fast food traditions. The potential for gimmickry makes me cringe, but if the food is actually really good to eat, it'd be tough to judge it by any other criteria. In mining such traditions, restaurants are, in a sense, making a logical leap from cross-cultural comfort foods -- menus inspired by what families eat together -- to meals tired, drunk people eat alone, as fast as they can, before they pass out, dabs of hot sauce still smeared across their faces.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In taking stock of the street-food trend and seeking to integrate it into their 800-pound gorilla of a business model, Whole Foods is following the same logic, trying to reflect the culture it sees bubbling up with tasty, convenient products people will buy. Harvindar Singh, Whole Foods' Northern California local foods \"forager,\" told Birdsall he was hoping to sell locally sourced street food from grab-and-go perishable fridge cases or as shelf-stable products in up to 30 stores across the region. Thus far, he's reportedly met with Crème Brûlée Cart's Curtis Kimball, his brother, Magic Curry Kart's Brian Kimball, and Jon Kosorek of East Bay cart Jon's Street Eats on the subject of a bottled salad dressing. As Birdsall notes, the vendors participating will need to make some adjustments to their wares: \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"...[S]elling to Whole Foods means more than dropping off a few trays of crème brûlée at the loading dock. It means tweaking ― or substantially re-engineering ― products to meet the company's guidelines for sourcing and packaging. 'They have to feel ready and capable of doing this,' Singh said of the vendors. 'This is a whole new business for them. I'd want to make sure they have the volume and know how to do business at this level. It's a partnership.'\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>A \u003ca href=\"http://articles.moneycentral.msn.com/news/article.aspx?feed=MY&date=20100611&id=11591434\">Minyanville article\u003c/a> published last Friday delves into some of the gritty details that partnership will entail, with Leslie Skarra, founder of a Minnesota-based product development and research firm, weighing to drop knowledge faster than a hand-scalding hot empanada:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"The first thing necessary to go from [a street cart] to the Whole Foods level is to convert the recipe to a formula...If you've been measuring ingredients by the cup, the large-scale producer will need the weights. Then, you need to define the process. Usually, there are things specific to a street vendor's equipment, their environment, that make their products what they are. After that, there needs to be a process of investigation to make sure the original product can be reproduced accurately...[S]cientists will convert the ingredients in the formula into one that would be acceptable to Whole Foods from a sourcing standpoint, a quality standpoint, and work out the necessary scale of operations...What are the risks? Sometimes going from handmade to large scale changes things. This is where many people involved in this sort of translation can underestimate the problems in going from small and slow to bigger and faster. This is known in the industry as 'scale up', which is very important to get right, to maintain the integrity of the street food and the things that make it excellent to eat, a pleasurable experience, every time it’s consumed, to drive repeat consumption.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>I have included this whole beast of a quote because it sums up a lot of the issues at play better and no less succinctly than would my paraphrasing. The vendors and their loyal customers will have one major concern for sure -- that the efforts required to Whole Foods-ify the products will strip away flavor and authenticity. Crafted on a larger scale, sold from case, not cart, might some of the City's better-known traveling eateries end up, in Whole Foods' hands, becoming the edible equivalent of elevator music -- familiar, well-loved melodies with their songs' souls sucked out?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The idea of Whole Foods being some weird suburban bazaar-o full of exotic corporate-approved pseudo-street-food is probably hard for some devotees of the culture to stomach, but the truth is, for most Whole Foods customers, grazing through the grocery's expansive self-service steam-table offerings is already part of the shopping routine. An influx of street-food products in any part of the store would just mean a few more options. I'm not sure that the products would be seen as anything more than things to buy and eat, probably not valuable cultural artifacts at risk of dilution. Vendors -- especially those with families who have been selling food on the streets to make a living, not entertain a hobby -- might see Whole Foods as an opportunity to make their food work for them, and conceive of \"selling out\" as a dream, not a disappointment. It's a path some might want to go down and others might not. I just hope people who've been pushing tamales at Bart stations for 20 years get a shot -- that is, if they want one -- along with Silicon Valley refugees with over-active Twitter accounts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Whole Foods has been stocking locally sourced prepared foods for a while. About a year ago, I did a brief interview with Singh for an Oakland Tribune story about \u003ca href=\"http://www.bolaniandsauce.com/home.php\">East and West Gourmet Food\u003c/a>, the Afghan-owned Dublin outfit nearly unavoidable farmer's markets throughout the region. Familiar with the company's products from his days running farmer's markets, he started stocking the company's vegan \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bolani\">bolani\u003c/a> breads and savory dips. They sold very well, at one point, he told me -- if memory serves me correctly -- so well that a few items were turning over as fast as grocery list staples. According to a Wall Street Journal \u003ca href=\"http://chicsikh.org/cuisine/harvindar_singh_he_scouts_for_whole_foods\">article\u003c/a>, also published last week, Singh has had a hand in the draft kombucha that has been flowing at a few area stores. He's also helped some of the small operations he's tapped fund their expansions -- all facilitated by the company's 2006 $10 million dollar low-interest loan program for local farmers and producers. When Singh approached her, East and West Gourmet Food's Nazie Sidiq didn't worry about getting too big. Her company -- really an extended family -- grew, and when I turned in the piece, was preparing to grow much bigger. Sidiq told me very plainly that she wanted to be on Oprah, to have the whole world eating Afghan street food, learning about it, embracing it. If Whole Foods can make lesser-known culinary traditions accessible on a broad scale without sacrificing quality, the company is doing a service -- to consumers, producers, and, of course, itself. There's a lot about Whole Foods that gives a thoughtful consumer pause -- not least of which is the behemoth store's propensity for snatching business from small neighborhood groceries and markets. At the same time, unless you think street-food has to be a hardscrabble existence, or that a noble small business is a scarcely sustainable one, the trend is encouraging. \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/06/wfcartoon500.jpg\" alt=\"whole foods cartoon\" title=\"whole foods cartoon\" width=\"500\" height=\"385\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-14281\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Last week, I was not surprised when I read John Birdsall's S.F. Weekly \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.sfweekly.com/foodie/2010/06/how_do_you_know_when.php\">post\u003c/a> about Whole Foods' planned development of a \"street eats\" line. While the \u003ca href=\"http://www.theonion.com/\">Onion\u003c/a> headline-ready notion of packed station wagons zipping over to America's fastest-growing supermarket chain (on weekends, after the kids' soccer games, before trips to the pool, perhaps) to savor authentic street-cart fare made me chuckle, the movement has boomed so rapidly and robustly -- resonating from gastronomic hot-spots such as Portland and New York to smaller markets, leaping from local blogs to spreads in food magazines -- it's almost shocking it didn't break sooner. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Definitions of street-food vary. To some, street-food is literally simply food you buy on the street to eat as you venture walk from one place to another, on foot or by bike. It is sold via cart, van, or basket. You find it steaming from wheeled cases under lamp-posts outside a favorite Mission District bar, wafting from a row of tents at Alemany Farmers' Market, and hawked from busy Financial District corners. Convenience is at the heart of it. Whether you're tucking into a pizza crisped in a customized Weber, scooping holes in a crème brûlée with a compostable spoon, or enjoying a bao in the park, you feel as if your food is coming to you. More accurately, it happens to be where you end up going. While the form has evolved to include dishes normally eaten on proper tables, street-food is usually portable, easy to hold, ideally with one hand, while in motion. You eat it the moment after you buy it, ideally immediately. Street-food is also a genre. Just as cart-pushers relish coming up with unlikely delicacies to squeeze into the street food idiom, expanding the realm of known possibilities, street food traditions from all over the world suddenly have a hold on the food-obsessed public's heightened attention, and chefs are increasingly comfortable crediting, say, Burmese lettuce wraps, Indian puri, or salt-studded pretzels with influencing dishes served at their relatively expensive, artfully designed restaurants boasting public relations teams and Flash-heavy websites. When fancy food hits the streets, and quick bites head uptown, the translations swirl in both directions, potentially to the point of causing cacophony -- over-priced white tablecloth tacos that don't taste as good as they should, and gimmicky riffs on haute cuisine you'd just as soon feed to the bold, foraging pigeon sharing your bench. Still, there's the one-year-old \u003ca href=\"http://www.eatatstreet.com/\">Street\u003c/a> in Los Angeles, a stylish, hip restaurant celebrated for chef-owner (and long-time street-food advocate) Susan Feniger's inspired riffs on global fast food traditions. The potential for gimmickry makes me cringe, but if the food is actually really good to eat, it'd be tough to judge it by any other criteria. In mining such traditions, restaurants are, in a sense, making a logical leap from cross-cultural comfort foods -- menus inspired by what families eat together -- to meals tired, drunk people eat alone, as fast as they can, before they pass out, dabs of hot sauce still smeared across their faces.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In taking stock of the street-food trend and seeking to integrate it into their 800-pound gorilla of a business model, Whole Foods is following the same logic, trying to reflect the culture it sees bubbling up with tasty, convenient products people will buy. Harvindar Singh, Whole Foods' Northern California local foods \"forager,\" told Birdsall he was hoping to sell locally sourced street food from grab-and-go perishable fridge cases or as shelf-stable products in up to 30 stores across the region. Thus far, he's reportedly met with Crème Brûlée Cart's Curtis Kimball, his brother, Magic Curry Kart's Brian Kimball, and Jon Kosorek of East Bay cart Jon's Street Eats on the subject of a bottled salad dressing. As Birdsall notes, the vendors participating will need to make some adjustments to their wares: \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"...[S]elling to Whole Foods means more than dropping off a few trays of crème brûlée at the loading dock. It means tweaking ― or substantially re-engineering ― products to meet the company's guidelines for sourcing and packaging. 'They have to feel ready and capable of doing this,' Singh said of the vendors. 'This is a whole new business for them. I'd want to make sure they have the volume and know how to do business at this level. It's a partnership.'\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>A \u003ca href=\"http://articles.moneycentral.msn.com/news/article.aspx?feed=MY&date=20100611&id=11591434\">Minyanville article\u003c/a> published last Friday delves into some of the gritty details that partnership will entail, with Leslie Skarra, founder of a Minnesota-based product development and research firm, weighing to drop knowledge faster than a hand-scalding hot empanada:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"The first thing necessary to go from [a street cart] to the Whole Foods level is to convert the recipe to a formula...If you've been measuring ingredients by the cup, the large-scale producer will need the weights. Then, you need to define the process. Usually, there are things specific to a street vendor's equipment, their environment, that make their products what they are. After that, there needs to be a process of investigation to make sure the original product can be reproduced accurately...[S]cientists will convert the ingredients in the formula into one that would be acceptable to Whole Foods from a sourcing standpoint, a quality standpoint, and work out the necessary scale of operations...What are the risks? Sometimes going from handmade to large scale changes things. This is where many people involved in this sort of translation can underestimate the problems in going from small and slow to bigger and faster. This is known in the industry as 'scale up', which is very important to get right, to maintain the integrity of the street food and the things that make it excellent to eat, a pleasurable experience, every time it’s consumed, to drive repeat consumption.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>I have included this whole beast of a quote because it sums up a lot of the issues at play better and no less succinctly than would my paraphrasing. The vendors and their loyal customers will have one major concern for sure -- that the efforts required to Whole Foods-ify the products will strip away flavor and authenticity. Crafted on a larger scale, sold from case, not cart, might some of the City's better-known traveling eateries end up, in Whole Foods' hands, becoming the edible equivalent of elevator music -- familiar, well-loved melodies with their songs' souls sucked out?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The idea of Whole Foods being some weird suburban bazaar-o full of exotic corporate-approved pseudo-street-food is probably hard for some devotees of the culture to stomach, but the truth is, for most Whole Foods customers, grazing through the grocery's expansive self-service steam-table offerings is already part of the shopping routine. An influx of street-food products in any part of the store would just mean a few more options. I'm not sure that the products would be seen as anything more than things to buy and eat, probably not valuable cultural artifacts at risk of dilution. Vendors -- especially those with families who have been selling food on the streets to make a living, not entertain a hobby -- might see Whole Foods as an opportunity to make their food work for them, and conceive of \"selling out\" as a dream, not a disappointment. It's a path some might want to go down and others might not. I just hope people who've been pushing tamales at Bart stations for 20 years get a shot -- that is, if they want one -- along with Silicon Valley refugees with over-active Twitter accounts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Whole Foods has been stocking locally sourced prepared foods for a while. About a year ago, I did a brief interview with Singh for an Oakland Tribune story about \u003ca href=\"http://www.bolaniandsauce.com/home.php\">East and West Gourmet Food\u003c/a>, the Afghan-owned Dublin outfit nearly unavoidable farmer's markets throughout the region. Familiar with the company's products from his days running farmer's markets, he started stocking the company's vegan \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bolani\">bolani\u003c/a> breads and savory dips. They sold very well, at one point, he told me -- if memory serves me correctly -- so well that a few items were turning over as fast as grocery list staples. According to a Wall Street Journal \u003ca href=\"http://chicsikh.org/cuisine/harvindar_singh_he_scouts_for_whole_foods\">article\u003c/a>, also published last week, Singh has had a hand in the draft kombucha that has been flowing at a few area stores. He's also helped some of the small operations he's tapped fund their expansions -- all facilitated by the company's 2006 $10 million dollar low-interest loan program for local farmers and producers. When Singh approached her, East and West Gourmet Food's Nazie Sidiq didn't worry about getting too big. Her company -- really an extended family -- grew, and when I turned in the piece, was preparing to grow much bigger. Sidiq told me very plainly that she wanted to be on Oprah, to have the whole world eating Afghan street food, learning about it, embracing it. If Whole Foods can make lesser-known culinary traditions accessible on a broad scale without sacrificing quality, the company is doing a service -- to consumers, producers, and, of course, itself. There's a lot about Whole Foods that gives a thoughtful consumer pause -- not least of which is the behemoth store's propensity for snatching business from small neighborhood groceries and markets. At the same time, unless you think street-food has to be a hardscrabble existence, or that a noble small business is a scarcely sustainable one, the trend is encouraging. \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/04/commonwealthtoon500.jpg\" alt=\"commonwealth cartoon\" title=\"commonwealth cartoon\" width=\"500\" height=\"563\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-12844\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When it springs to life in the old El Herradero space on Mission at 18th, presumably early this summer, \u003ca href=\"http://www.commonwealthsf.com/\">Commonwealth\u003c/a> will be \"a progressive American restaurant, building on California's tradition of showcasing local, seasonal foods while incorporating diverse culinary approaches from around the world.\" Many, many San Francisco restaurants plaster that sort of thesis statement across their websites. While it's pegged as an \"innovative model of benevolent fine-dining...committed to benefiting our community,\" in which \"a set portion of proceeds from [Chef Jason] Fox’s inventive tasting menus will be donated to local non-profits,\" none of Commonwealth's p.r. literature refers to the eatery-in-process as a charity exactly. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A \u003ca href=\"http://www.thefreedictionary.com/charity\">free, potentially unreliable online dictionary\u003c/a> defines charity: \"Provision of help or relief to the poor; almsgiving; something given to help the needy; alms; an institution, organization, or fund established to help the needy; benevolence or generosity toward others or toward humanity; indulgence or forbearance in judging others.\" As applied to the restaurant world, the word takes a lot of different tacks. Jamie Oliver's \u003ca href=\"http://www.fifteen.net/Pages/default.aspx\">Fifteen\u003c/a> foundation trains disadvantaged youth to run a growing empire of restaurants. Since 1991, San Francisco's \u003ca href=\"http://www.delanceystreetfoundation.org/\">Delancey Street Foundation\u003c/a> has run a vocational training program around its restaurant staffed by residents (often ex-convicts and former abusers of drugs and alcohol). Plenty of restaurants make a point of donating surplus food to banks and soup kitchens. I also think of \u003ca href=\"http://karmakitchen.org/\">Karma Kitchen\u003c/a>, the three-year-old Berkeley cafe founded on the concept of pay-it-forward. Every meal is a \"genuine gift\" paid for by previous customers. The idea is that happy diners will then elect to become donors to allow subsequent visitors to enjoy the same nourishment and hospitality, and to perpetuate the cycle of trust, abundance, and community-awareness. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Though high-end big-ticket establishments occasionally throw a benefit bash situated around one holiday or another, most restaurants focused on helping others aren't overly preoccupied with pushing unique, gastronomically interesting meals. Relatively austere offerings such as dal and rice abound. I suppose that's why Commonwealth feels fresh -- even with brasserie \u003ca href=\"http://www.elmwoodcafe.com/\">Elmwood Cafe\u003c/a> in Berkeley getting off to a \u003ca href=\"http://www.berkeleyside.com/2010/03/01/cafe-elmwood-makes-immediate-impact/\">good start\u003c/a> last month. In \u003ca href=\"http://sf.eater.com/archives/2010/04/16/myint_dishes_on_postfunding_plans_for_commonwealth.php\">an Eater S.F. bit\u003c/a> posted the week before last, founder Anthony Myint laid out the mission pretty clearly: \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"Basically, we're drawing on some aspects of [Mission Street Food], such as affordability and inventiveness of cuisine, and trying to make this a more consistent and sustainable business, which creates some revenue for local charities...[We're creating an] approachable fine dining atmosphere, focused on value-oriented food...The overall experience will be much more akin to fine dining than the sometimes charming, but often chaotic atmosphere at Lung Shan.”\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Given the sprint-like pace at which cultural movements now gather speed, the idea that food can be an agent of positive change is not particularly new; the idea that a fine dining restaurant can -- and not just by sourcing produce from nearby farms or going \"green\" -- is, on the other hand, somewhat unprecedented. Eager \"foodies\" inevitably hover like locusts around any waves preparing to crash across the city's dining scene. Once street food emerged as a monster trend, the swelling popularity of carts and stands run not infrequently by unemployment check-cashing hobbyists helped draw positive attention to people with families depending on their fledgling Health Code-flaunting businesses for survival. They may compete with citizens who ten years ago might have worked at a dot com and snapped up SOMA lofts, but at least higher profiles and legitimacy loom closer for all, right? How appropriate to harness that reoccurring phenomenon with the intention of sharing profits with non-profit organizations bent on improving lives, not just lighting up the dining scene. Just as they do for \u003ca href=\"http://blog.missionstreetfood.com/\">Mission Street Food\u003c/a> twice a week, lines will form around the block for Commonwealth when it opens. The lines will form partially because of the city's familiarity with Mission Street Food, but they will only stay if the restaurant is actually really good. Mission Street Food doesn't operate under the same pressure awaiting Commonwealth. It doesn't just appeal to people because it's a pop-up, or because its meals benefit charities. Each dinner is an opportunity to enjoy an unprecedented experience curated by a chef applying his learned techniques, background, and imagination to the concept. The chefs are usually relatively unheralded, and the meals give them an opportunity to garner more attention than they usually enjoy manning the sauce station at a celebrated restaurant with someone else's name on the menu out front. Imagine if \u003ca href=\"http://www.frenchlaundry.com/\">Thomas Keller\u003c/a> showed up one night with an army of assistants. The line would stretch up to Mount Davidson, but something would be lost all the same. Mission Street Food is a d.i.y. adventure with low prices to match. Dishes are executed with more consistency in a humming three-star kitchen with the same staff every night, but the spirit remains unique, lovably loose, with an invigorating, not unnerving, degree of uncertainty surrounding each dinner. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In this specific sense, Commonwealth can't be as exciting. It might be innovative, but it won't be rough-and-tumble. Instead, with a bar, a regular fleet of servers, a pedigreed designer, and a beloved local chef starting a new gig, it will be more like...a restaurant. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>S.F. Weekly online food editor John Birdsall said so much a month ago when he \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.sfweekly.com/foodie/2010/03/commonwealth_chef_jason_fox_mi.php\">reported on the developing project\u003c/a>: \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"Commonwealth is no Crossroads Cafe...some scrappy, scrape-together-funding place -- despite a well publicized cash-raising initiative on Kickstarter -- along the lines of the twice-weekly pop-up that put funky, fusty Lung Shan on the map. In a way, Commonwealth promises to reprise an earlier, finer-dining incarnation of Bar Tartine.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>I'm excited to see if Commonwealth's business plan in any way influences how it's received. Will Commonwealth's food be assessed like that of any other hotly anticipated Mission District eatery? Given the press and circulating buzz, will its food be taken as seriously as whatever charitable mission diners perceive ? It should be. But even if it sucks -- and it almost assuredly won't -- who would want to savage a restaurant founded on such noble principles? Will Michael Bauer bash away if it doesn't measure up to expectations? Will Yelpers revel in reporting on over-dressed salads, shaky service, and ice-cold plates, or will they hold back? Will Commonwealth's community-bolstering aspirations wilt beneath a barrage of dismissive, incomprehensible tweets?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Stay tuned next week for some Q-and-A with Commonwealth folks.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/04/commonwealthtoon500.jpg\" alt=\"commonwealth cartoon\" title=\"commonwealth cartoon\" width=\"500\" height=\"563\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-12844\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When it springs to life in the old El Herradero space on Mission at 18th, presumably early this summer, \u003ca href=\"http://www.commonwealthsf.com/\">Commonwealth\u003c/a> will be \"a progressive American restaurant, building on California's tradition of showcasing local, seasonal foods while incorporating diverse culinary approaches from around the world.\" Many, many San Francisco restaurants plaster that sort of thesis statement across their websites. While it's pegged as an \"innovative model of benevolent fine-dining...committed to benefiting our community,\" in which \"a set portion of proceeds from [Chef Jason] Fox’s inventive tasting menus will be donated to local non-profits,\" none of Commonwealth's p.r. literature refers to the eatery-in-process as a charity exactly. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A \u003ca href=\"http://www.thefreedictionary.com/charity\">free, potentially unreliable online dictionary\u003c/a> defines charity: \"Provision of help or relief to the poor; almsgiving; something given to help the needy; alms; an institution, organization, or fund established to help the needy; benevolence or generosity toward others or toward humanity; indulgence or forbearance in judging others.\" As applied to the restaurant world, the word takes a lot of different tacks. Jamie Oliver's \u003ca href=\"http://www.fifteen.net/Pages/default.aspx\">Fifteen\u003c/a> foundation trains disadvantaged youth to run a growing empire of restaurants. Since 1991, San Francisco's \u003ca href=\"http://www.delanceystreetfoundation.org/\">Delancey Street Foundation\u003c/a> has run a vocational training program around its restaurant staffed by residents (often ex-convicts and former abusers of drugs and alcohol). Plenty of restaurants make a point of donating surplus food to banks and soup kitchens. I also think of \u003ca href=\"http://karmakitchen.org/\">Karma Kitchen\u003c/a>, the three-year-old Berkeley cafe founded on the concept of pay-it-forward. Every meal is a \"genuine gift\" paid for by previous customers. The idea is that happy diners will then elect to become donors to allow subsequent visitors to enjoy the same nourishment and hospitality, and to perpetuate the cycle of trust, abundance, and community-awareness. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Though high-end big-ticket establishments occasionally throw a benefit bash situated around one holiday or another, most restaurants focused on helping others aren't overly preoccupied with pushing unique, gastronomically interesting meals. Relatively austere offerings such as dal and rice abound. I suppose that's why Commonwealth feels fresh -- even with brasserie \u003ca href=\"http://www.elmwoodcafe.com/\">Elmwood Cafe\u003c/a> in Berkeley getting off to a \u003ca href=\"http://www.berkeleyside.com/2010/03/01/cafe-elmwood-makes-immediate-impact/\">good start\u003c/a> last month. In \u003ca href=\"http://sf.eater.com/archives/2010/04/16/myint_dishes_on_postfunding_plans_for_commonwealth.php\">an Eater S.F. bit\u003c/a> posted the week before last, founder Anthony Myint laid out the mission pretty clearly: \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"Basically, we're drawing on some aspects of [Mission Street Food], such as affordability and inventiveness of cuisine, and trying to make this a more consistent and sustainable business, which creates some revenue for local charities...[We're creating an] approachable fine dining atmosphere, focused on value-oriented food...The overall experience will be much more akin to fine dining than the sometimes charming, but often chaotic atmosphere at Lung Shan.”\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Given the sprint-like pace at which cultural movements now gather speed, the idea that food can be an agent of positive change is not particularly new; the idea that a fine dining restaurant can -- and not just by sourcing produce from nearby farms or going \"green\" -- is, on the other hand, somewhat unprecedented. Eager \"foodies\" inevitably hover like locusts around any waves preparing to crash across the city's dining scene. Once street food emerged as a monster trend, the swelling popularity of carts and stands run not infrequently by unemployment check-cashing hobbyists helped draw positive attention to people with families depending on their fledgling Health Code-flaunting businesses for survival. They may compete with citizens who ten years ago might have worked at a dot com and snapped up SOMA lofts, but at least higher profiles and legitimacy loom closer for all, right? How appropriate to harness that reoccurring phenomenon with the intention of sharing profits with non-profit organizations bent on improving lives, not just lighting up the dining scene. Just as they do for \u003ca href=\"http://blog.missionstreetfood.com/\">Mission Street Food\u003c/a> twice a week, lines will form around the block for Commonwealth when it opens. The lines will form partially because of the city's familiarity with Mission Street Food, but they will only stay if the restaurant is actually really good. Mission Street Food doesn't operate under the same pressure awaiting Commonwealth. It doesn't just appeal to people because it's a pop-up, or because its meals benefit charities. Each dinner is an opportunity to enjoy an unprecedented experience curated by a chef applying his learned techniques, background, and imagination to the concept. The chefs are usually relatively unheralded, and the meals give them an opportunity to garner more attention than they usually enjoy manning the sauce station at a celebrated restaurant with someone else's name on the menu out front. Imagine if \u003ca href=\"http://www.frenchlaundry.com/\">Thomas Keller\u003c/a> showed up one night with an army of assistants. The line would stretch up to Mount Davidson, but something would be lost all the same. Mission Street Food is a d.i.y. adventure with low prices to match. Dishes are executed with more consistency in a humming three-star kitchen with the same staff every night, but the spirit remains unique, lovably loose, with an invigorating, not unnerving, degree of uncertainty surrounding each dinner. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In this specific sense, Commonwealth can't be as exciting. It might be innovative, but it won't be rough-and-tumble. Instead, with a bar, a regular fleet of servers, a pedigreed designer, and a beloved local chef starting a new gig, it will be more like...a restaurant. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>S.F. Weekly online food editor John Birdsall said so much a month ago when he \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.sfweekly.com/foodie/2010/03/commonwealth_chef_jason_fox_mi.php\">reported on the developing project\u003c/a>: \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"Commonwealth is no Crossroads Cafe...some scrappy, scrape-together-funding place -- despite a well publicized cash-raising initiative on Kickstarter -- along the lines of the twice-weekly pop-up that put funky, fusty Lung Shan on the map. In a way, Commonwealth promises to reprise an earlier, finer-dining incarnation of Bar Tartine.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>I'm excited to see if Commonwealth's business plan in any way influences how it's received. Will Commonwealth's food be assessed like that of any other hotly anticipated Mission District eatery? Given the press and circulating buzz, will its food be taken as seriously as whatever charitable mission diners perceive ? It should be. But even if it sucks -- and it almost assuredly won't -- who would want to savage a restaurant founded on such noble principles? Will Michael Bauer bash away if it doesn't measure up to expectations? Will Yelpers revel in reporting on over-dressed salads, shaky service, and ice-cold plates, or will they hold back? Will Commonwealth's community-bolstering aspirations wilt beneath a barrage of dismissive, incomprehensible tweets?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "A Downtown Trek to Waffle Nirvana",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/02/truck.jpg\" alt=\"Waffle Mania truck\" title=\"Waffle Mania truck\" width=\"500\" height=\"423\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-10767\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/wafflemaniaSF\">The Waffle Mania Truck\u003c/a>\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'll admit it. I rarely drive downtown. Now I'm probably going to sound about twice my age when I tell you why, but I'm OK with that. I like to stick to the neighborhoods in San Francisco where friends live, where you can occasionally find parking, where your quarter gets you more than five minutes in the meter. In the short time that I've lived in the city, I've quickly discovered the frustrations of MUNI and have concluded that, apparently, after crossing Market Street I lose all sense of direction I may have once had. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That being said, I wanted to check out \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/waffle-mania-truck-san-francisco\">Waffle Mania\u003c/a> this week, and I'd heard that the truck was spending more time in the city on a little side street in SOMA. I knew what this meant. That's right, folks: I was going downtown. And I'm here to report that I'd do it again in a heartbeat. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/02/street.jpg\" alt=\"Tehama street\" title=\"Tehama street\" width=\"500\" height=\"389\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-10766\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Tehama Street in SOMA: where you can find hot waffles on Tuesday and Friday mornings.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So what's the draw? For me, waffles are the ultimate comfort food. While some people would vote for macaroni and cheese or chicken potpie, waffles are it for me. They're warm and fluffy and a little bit sweet-- great with coffee and a good excuse to eat a little whipped cream in the morning. What more do you need? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/02/waffle.jpg\" alt=\"waffle\" title=\"waffle\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-10763\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>The classic powdered sugar waffle at \u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/wafflemaniaSF\">Waffle Mania\u003c/a>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The \"waffle man\" that many people seek out is, more often than not, Alain Dupont (while there are a few other business partners, Dupont is frequently working the waffle irons). While he's a familiar face at many of the local markets, the Tehama Street routine is new. I asked Dupont why he decided to spend more time in San Francisco and how he chose the quiet, unassuming street. After doing a very successful catering event in mid-November at \u003ca href=\"http://www.barrelhousesf.com/\">BarrelHouse\u003c/a> (\u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/BarrelHouseSF\">@barrelhousesf\u003c/a>), friend and marketing guru Marcus Colombano encouraged Alain to come down to BarrelHouse on a more permanent basis, and the CBS folks across the street have welcomed him with open arms. The rest seems to be history. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If I had the clout the CBS employees do, I'd request something similar in my neighborhood. The waffles are pretty remarkable. They're different than the light, airy Belgian waffles I've had in the past. As I was watching Dupont make them inside the truck, I noticed the dough's actually a sturdy little ball rather than the batter that most of us are used to making at home. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/02/makingwaffles.jpg\" alt=\"making waffles on Waffle Mania truck\" title=\"making waffles on Waffle Mania truck\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-10764\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Alain Dupont lining up a fresh round of waffles\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to the \u003ca href=\"http://www.sogood.be/sogood_en/belgianwaffle_index.html\">So Good\u003c/a> website where Dupont orders the imported Belgian dough, these are Liege waffles with 300 years of culinary tradition behind them. I did a little research and the liege waffle is a type of Belgian waffle that's made with a dense dough and is baked with little bits of sugar inside which, when cooked, give the waffles an almost caramelized, buttery, slightly crispy top. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/02/menu1.jpg\" alt=\"Waffle Mania truck menu\" title=\"Waffle Mania truck menu\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-10765\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Keeping it simple: the menu choices at \u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/wafflemaniaSF\">Waffle Mania\u003c/a>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While I was tempted by the Nutella Waffle, I ultimately wanted to taste the real, unadulterated waffle I'd been hearing so much about. The meter was ticking. My quarters were about to run out. I had powdered sugar all over my camera bag and, sure enough, I got lost trying to get back to my 'hood. But it was all worth it in the end. In fact, you may find me right back there on Tuesday.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>GET SOME!\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Tues. and Fri.:\u003c/strong> Tehama St., between First and Second St, San Francisco. 8am-12pm (or until they run out which often happens around 10:30).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Wed. \u003ca href=\"http://www.hocfarmersmarket.org/\">Civic Center Farmers Market\u003c/a>:\u003c/strong> 1182 Market St. between Eighth and Grove St., San Francisco. 8am-12pm.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Thurs. and Sun. \u003ca href=\"http://www.marinagriculturalinstitute.org/index/getMarketDetails?type=Markets&id=20080805091943.active\">Marin Farmer's Market\u003c/a>:\u003c/strong> 76 San Pablo Ave., San Rafael. 8am-1pm\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Sat. \u003ca href=\"http://www.marinagriculturalinstitute.org/index/getMarketDetails?type=Markets&id=20080812134733.active\">Grand Lake Farmer's Market\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>: Intersection of Grand Lake and Park Ave., Oakland. 9am-2 pm\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cstrong>Follow on Twitter:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/wafflemaniaSF\">@wafflemaniaSF\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "I wanted to check out \u003cstrong>Waffle Mania\u003c/strong> this week, and I'd heard that the truck was spending more time in the city on a little side street in SOMA. I knew what this meant. That's right, folks: I was going downtown. And I'm here to report that I'd do it again in a heartbeat. ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/02/truck.jpg\" alt=\"Waffle Mania truck\" title=\"Waffle Mania truck\" width=\"500\" height=\"423\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-10767\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/wafflemaniaSF\">The Waffle Mania Truck\u003c/a>\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'll admit it. I rarely drive downtown. Now I'm probably going to sound about twice my age when I tell you why, but I'm OK with that. I like to stick to the neighborhoods in San Francisco where friends live, where you can occasionally find parking, where your quarter gets you more than five minutes in the meter. In the short time that I've lived in the city, I've quickly discovered the frustrations of MUNI and have concluded that, apparently, after crossing Market Street I lose all sense of direction I may have once had. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That being said, I wanted to check out \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/waffle-mania-truck-san-francisco\">Waffle Mania\u003c/a> this week, and I'd heard that the truck was spending more time in the city on a little side street in SOMA. I knew what this meant. That's right, folks: I was going downtown. And I'm here to report that I'd do it again in a heartbeat. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/02/street.jpg\" alt=\"Tehama street\" title=\"Tehama street\" width=\"500\" height=\"389\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-10766\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Tehama Street in SOMA: where you can find hot waffles on Tuesday and Friday mornings.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So what's the draw? For me, waffles are the ultimate comfort food. While some people would vote for macaroni and cheese or chicken potpie, waffles are it for me. They're warm and fluffy and a little bit sweet-- great with coffee and a good excuse to eat a little whipped cream in the morning. What more do you need? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/02/waffle.jpg\" alt=\"waffle\" title=\"waffle\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-10763\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>The classic powdered sugar waffle at \u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/wafflemaniaSF\">Waffle Mania\u003c/a>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The \"waffle man\" that many people seek out is, more often than not, Alain Dupont (while there are a few other business partners, Dupont is frequently working the waffle irons). While he's a familiar face at many of the local markets, the Tehama Street routine is new. I asked Dupont why he decided to spend more time in San Francisco and how he chose the quiet, unassuming street. After doing a very successful catering event in mid-November at \u003ca href=\"http://www.barrelhousesf.com/\">BarrelHouse\u003c/a> (\u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/BarrelHouseSF\">@barrelhousesf\u003c/a>), friend and marketing guru Marcus Colombano encouraged Alain to come down to BarrelHouse on a more permanent basis, and the CBS folks across the street have welcomed him with open arms. The rest seems to be history. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If I had the clout the CBS employees do, I'd request something similar in my neighborhood. The waffles are pretty remarkable. They're different than the light, airy Belgian waffles I've had in the past. As I was watching Dupont make them inside the truck, I noticed the dough's actually a sturdy little ball rather than the batter that most of us are used to making at home. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/02/makingwaffles.jpg\" alt=\"making waffles on Waffle Mania truck\" title=\"making waffles on Waffle Mania truck\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-10764\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Alain Dupont lining up a fresh round of waffles\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to the \u003ca href=\"http://www.sogood.be/sogood_en/belgianwaffle_index.html\">So Good\u003c/a> website where Dupont orders the imported Belgian dough, these are Liege waffles with 300 years of culinary tradition behind them. I did a little research and the liege waffle is a type of Belgian waffle that's made with a dense dough and is baked with little bits of sugar inside which, when cooked, give the waffles an almost caramelized, buttery, slightly crispy top. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/02/menu1.jpg\" alt=\"Waffle Mania truck menu\" title=\"Waffle Mania truck menu\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-10765\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Keeping it simple: the menu choices at \u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/wafflemaniaSF\">Waffle Mania\u003c/a>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While I was tempted by the Nutella Waffle, I ultimately wanted to taste the real, unadulterated waffle I'd been hearing so much about. The meter was ticking. My quarters were about to run out. I had powdered sugar all over my camera bag and, sure enough, I got lost trying to get back to my 'hood. But it was all worth it in the end. In fact, you may find me right back there on Tuesday.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>GET SOME!\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Tues. and Fri.:\u003c/strong> Tehama St., between First and Second St, San Francisco. 8am-12pm (or until they run out which often happens around 10:30).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Wed. \u003ca href=\"http://www.hocfarmersmarket.org/\">Civic Center Farmers Market\u003c/a>:\u003c/strong> 1182 Market St. between Eighth and Grove St., San Francisco. 8am-12pm.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Thurs. and Sun. \u003ca href=\"http://www.marinagriculturalinstitute.org/index/getMarketDetails?type=Markets&id=20080805091943.active\">Marin Farmer's Market\u003c/a>:\u003c/strong> 76 San Pablo Ave., San Rafael. 8am-1pm\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Sat. \u003ca href=\"http://www.marinagriculturalinstitute.org/index/getMarketDetails?type=Markets&id=20080812134733.active\">Grand Lake Farmer's Market\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>: Intersection of Grand Lake and Park Ave., Oakland. 9am-2 pm\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cstrong>Follow on Twitter:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/wafflemaniaSF\">@wafflemaniaSF\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Not So Secret San Francisco",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.facebook.com/home.php?#!/group.php?gid=303061190944&ref=ts\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/02/secretsf.jpg\" alt=\"Secret San Francisco\" title=\"Secret San Francisco\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-10643\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Sshhh…don't tell!\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I started procrastinating about an hour ago, Facebook group \u003ca href=\"http://www.facebook.com/home.php?#!/group.php?gid=303061190944&ref=ts\">Secret San Francisco\u003c/a> was at 42,654 members. Now, it's at 43,736 members. A mere 10 days ago, it was just a glint in Jamie Quint's eye. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The 24-year-old entrepreneur started this group based on the model of \u003ca href=\"http://eu.techcrunch.com/2010/02/07/startup-to-launch-after-secret-london-facebook-group-amasses-180000/\">Secret London\u003c/a>, which went from zero to 180,000 members in under 20 days. The group is an open forum for people to spill San Francisco's best kept secrets, from restaurants and bars, to events, shows, and random cool things to do.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Discussion boards contain threads on topics like \u003cem>Best Sandwich\u003c/em>, \u003cem>Best Brunch (for foodies not alchies)\u003c/em>, and \u003cem>Best Outdoor Workout\u003c/em>…to burn off all those carbs and eggs benedicts. There is even a brief diatribe that ensues when an out-of-towner catastrophically requests some good tips on where to go when she visits \"Frisco\" this summer. Eeek. Poor thing won't be uttering that jaunty little nickname for a long time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There is a lot of noise on the Wall, but search and you are bound to happen upon a hidden gem or two, and get inspired to plan an excursion the next time you have a free weekend. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, I know we all love the Internet and everything, but still…it is remarkable how popular this group has become in such a short time. Is it because we all love a juicy secret? Is it because we're bored? Or because Yelp reviews are too hiply cryptic to understand sometimes? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a time and place where Twitter-roving street food carts are the new speakeasies, slinging \u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/kungFuTacos\">Kung Fu Tacos\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/SexySoupCart\">Sexy Soup\u003c/a> to the masses willing to seek them out, \"underground\" is the new black, and \"secret\" is the new twenty.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/02/01.28.10-SF-Underground-Farmers-Market-065.jpg\" alt=\"SF Underground Farmers Market, 01.28.10\" title=\"SF Underground Farmers Market, 01.28.10\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-10644\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>SF Underground Farmers Market, 01.28.10\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Just ask any one of the hundreds of kombucha-thirsty flavor-ravers who turned out for the \u003ca href=\"http://foragesf.wordpress.com/2010/01/21/sf-underground-farmers-market-is-back-2/\">Underground Farmers Market\u003c/a> last month. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/02/01.28.10-Mission-Street-Food-064.jpg\" alt=\"Mission Street Food, 01.28.10\" title=\"Mission Street Food, 01.28.10\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-10646\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Mission Street Food, 01.28.10\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Or walk by \u003cstrong>Lung Shan\u003c/strong> on a Thursday or Saturday night, when an unassuming Chinese restaurant turns into the packed, twinkle-lit, pop-up restaurant, \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2010/02/12/dining/12sfdine.html\">Mission Street Food\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Perhaps we gravitate to these projects because they exude a sense of authenticity, of being \"in the know\", and part of something special and communal. Or, it could simply be...some things are just too good to keep to ourselves.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/02/01.28.10-SF-Underground-Farmers-Market-011.jpg\" alt=\"Flavor-ravers, SF Underground Farmers Market\" title=\"Flavor-ravers, SF Underground Farmers Market\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-10645\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Flavor-ravers, SF Underground Farmers Market\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Secret San Francisco Facebook Group\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nIf you're interested in receiving a weekly digest of the best posts on Secret SF in your email, you can \u003ca href=\"https://jamiequint.wufoo.com/forms/join-the-secret-san-francisco-mailing-list/\">sign up here\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.facebook.com/home.php?#!/group.php?gid=303061190944&ref=ts\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/02/secretsf.jpg\" alt=\"Secret San Francisco\" title=\"Secret San Francisco\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-10643\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Sshhh…don't tell!\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I started procrastinating about an hour ago, Facebook group \u003ca href=\"http://www.facebook.com/home.php?#!/group.php?gid=303061190944&ref=ts\">Secret San Francisco\u003c/a> was at 42,654 members. Now, it's at 43,736 members. A mere 10 days ago, it was just a glint in Jamie Quint's eye. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The 24-year-old entrepreneur started this group based on the model of \u003ca href=\"http://eu.techcrunch.com/2010/02/07/startup-to-launch-after-secret-london-facebook-group-amasses-180000/\">Secret London\u003c/a>, which went from zero to 180,000 members in under 20 days. The group is an open forum for people to spill San Francisco's best kept secrets, from restaurants and bars, to events, shows, and random cool things to do.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Discussion boards contain threads on topics like \u003cem>Best Sandwich\u003c/em>, \u003cem>Best Brunch (for foodies not alchies)\u003c/em>, and \u003cem>Best Outdoor Workout\u003c/em>…to burn off all those carbs and eggs benedicts. There is even a brief diatribe that ensues when an out-of-towner catastrophically requests some good tips on where to go when she visits \"Frisco\" this summer. Eeek. Poor thing won't be uttering that jaunty little nickname for a long time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There is a lot of noise on the Wall, but search and you are bound to happen upon a hidden gem or two, and get inspired to plan an excursion the next time you have a free weekend. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, I know we all love the Internet and everything, but still…it is remarkable how popular this group has become in such a short time. Is it because we all love a juicy secret? Is it because we're bored? Or because Yelp reviews are too hiply cryptic to understand sometimes? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a time and place where Twitter-roving street food carts are the new speakeasies, slinging \u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/kungFuTacos\">Kung Fu Tacos\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/SexySoupCart\">Sexy Soup\u003c/a> to the masses willing to seek them out, \"underground\" is the new black, and \"secret\" is the new twenty.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/02/01.28.10-SF-Underground-Farmers-Market-065.jpg\" alt=\"SF Underground Farmers Market, 01.28.10\" title=\"SF Underground Farmers Market, 01.28.10\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-10644\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>SF Underground Farmers Market, 01.28.10\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Just ask any one of the hundreds of kombucha-thirsty flavor-ravers who turned out for the \u003ca href=\"http://foragesf.wordpress.com/2010/01/21/sf-underground-farmers-market-is-back-2/\">Underground Farmers Market\u003c/a> last month. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/02/01.28.10-Mission-Street-Food-064.jpg\" alt=\"Mission Street Food, 01.28.10\" title=\"Mission Street Food, 01.28.10\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-10646\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Mission Street Food, 01.28.10\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Or walk by \u003cstrong>Lung Shan\u003c/strong> on a Thursday or Saturday night, when an unassuming Chinese restaurant turns into the packed, twinkle-lit, pop-up restaurant, \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2010/02/12/dining/12sfdine.html\">Mission Street Food\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Perhaps we gravitate to these projects because they exude a sense of authenticity, of being \"in the know\", and part of something special and communal. Or, it could simply be...some things are just too good to keep to ourselves.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/02/01.28.10-SF-Underground-Farmers-Market-011.jpg\" alt=\"Flavor-ravers, SF Underground Farmers Market\" title=\"Flavor-ravers, SF Underground Farmers Market\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-10645\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Flavor-ravers, SF Underground Farmers Market\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Secret San Francisco Facebook Group\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nIf you're interested in receiving a weekly digest of the best posts on Secret SF in your email, you can \u003ca href=\"https://jamiequint.wufoo.com/forms/join-the-secret-san-francisco-mailing-list/\">sign up here\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/02/inandout.jpg\" alt=\"East Coaster at In-N-Out Burger\" title=\"East Coaster at In-N-Out Burger\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-10422\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>An East Coaster gets his first taste of In-N-Out Burger. Photo by Michael V. Chopko\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Growing up, my house was healthy. Bran stocked the cupboard, gallons of skim milk sat in the fridge. We didn't eat fast food except on rare occasions. On busy nights, my parents picked up sprout-laden sandwiches and baked potatoes from our nearest \u003ca href=\"http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_m3190/is_v19/ai_3680221/\">Fresher Cooker\u003c/a> franchise. After multi-million dollar losses year after year, the locally-owned company (conceived as a healthy alternative to burger joints) filed for bankruptcy, folded, and the restaurant in the strip mall parking lot near my house fell apart and came back together as a \u003ca href=\"http://www.skylinechili.com/\">Skyline Chili\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fast food mainly happened on road trips then, when we'd drive from Louisville to New Orleans or Northern Florida for a vacation. I remember one drive down with my brother and dad. I must have been ten. We stopped for fries and \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arch_Deluxe\">Arch Deluxes\u003c/a>. I had a fish sandwich. An hour later, not far from Tuscaloosa, Alabama, my brother started throwing up. He hadn't been poisoned; he was car-sick, a tendency worsened by his habit of doodling in notebooks as the Volvo heaved and pitched over I-65's pocked surface. We stopped at a gas station so my dad could clean him off and buy a styrofoam cooler. My brother was still throwing up, leaning out of the car, near the pump. A scraggly old yokel sauntered over. \"What's wrong with 'im?\" he asked, practically chuckling. My brother threw up into the cooler all the way to Hattiesburg. As soon as he was done, he wanted another burger. Vegetarianism dulled the allure of fast food for a while, but even in college, it permeated the culture. My senior year, I lived next to a \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rax_(restaurant)\">Rax\u003c/a>, a pitiful little lump of a franchise my friends and I always assumed was the last of its kind in the country -- so disconnected so under-patronized that perhaps -- like \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Edwina,_the_Dinosaur_Who_Didn't_Know_She_Was_Extinct\">Edwina, the cookie-baking dinosaur\u003c/a> -- it hadn't gotten wind of its own extinction. Then, for some people, going for fries at Rax was as palatably ironic an act as stacking toilet sculptures in the main quad or carefully growing a neat cop-style mustache to sport above a bemused smirk. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Today, I avoid fast food. I strive to eat healthily, responsibly, and well -- and I manage to get two out of three right most of the time. In other words, if I'm going to eat fried chicken, it's going to be good fried chicken -- featuring a bird whose life was reasonably pleasant prior to its sudden conclusion. However, this general rule isn't always easy to follow. Over the last five years, I have spent a lot of time touring around the country playing music -- and eating on the road in any way resembling that to which I am accustomed in San Francisco is tough if not impossible. If I were more of an urban homesteader, I'd make my own jerky, dry fruit, and roast nuts for snacks. Instead, ducking into parking lights, entranced by warm neon glows, I forage along the inter-states with wildly varying results. Thanks to a soggy half-rotten \"veggie delight\" foot-long somewhere in Michigan, I haven't eaten anything from \u003ca href=\"http://www.subway.com/subwayroot/index.aspx\">Subway\u003c/a> in three years, and I never will again. On the other hand, I have learned that Arby's makes a decent vegetable soup. Its coffee shakes are good too. I have also learned that \u003ca href=\"http://www.carlsjr.com/\">Carl's Jr.\u003c/a> has one healthy sandwich that doesn't make me feel sick after I eat it: the grilled chicken with barbecue sauce and crunchy lettuce on a whole wheat bun. The sauce tastes like low-cal ketchup dosed with liquid smoke, but I don't quibble. I'm always happy to see that yellow star rising up on a pole in the dark next to the highway. In general, grocery stores are better than restaurants. Whenever I stumble across a reasonably well-appointed one, I buy carrots, bananas, bread, and peanut butter, or some deli turkey and cheese. While these eats assault my body with less malice, something remains appealing about fast food on the road, particularly when it's eaten in the car, as music hums from the stereo, and the windows rattles as the wheels tumble along. Towns give way to cities, suburbs, and towns again. The windshield steams up from unwrapped burgers. A greasy smell oozes into the upholstery and hangs in the air between the front seats. Ketchup packets fall on the van floor. Someone steps on one, and he is cursed as red spits across the carpet.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On the West Coast, \u003ca href=\"http://www.in-n-out.com/\">In-N-Out Burger\u003c/a> -- every famous chef's favorite drive-through -- reigns supreme. My band was heading up from Los Angeles last weekend. As we approached the parking lot, the keyboardist, a \u003ca href=\"http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0118715/trivia\">Lebowski\u003c/a> fan visiting from D.C., awoke from a two-hour nap and practically dived out of the rolling van to get his first taste. While little approaches a double-double animal-style, the Midwest and East Coast offer a few nice options you can't get out here. \u003ca href=\"http://www.wawa.com/WawaWeb/\">Wawa\u003c/a>, a Mid-Atlantic chain of convenience stores, has excellent sandwiches you can customize via touch-screen. Frequently found in service plazas along East Coast turnpikes, the Falls Church, Virginia-based \u003ca href=\"http://www.royrogersrestaurants.com/\">Roy Rogers\u003c/a> has the \"Gold Rush\" chicken sandwich, fried breast on a roll with bacon, melted provolone, and honey barbecue sauce. The closest \u003ca href=\"http://www.whitecastle.com/\">White Castle\u003c/a> outpost may be 1 and 1/3 days away from us by car -- in Shakopee, Minnesota to be exact -- but you can buy frozen sliders from Walgreen's stores anywhere. I know because I have done so from the one on 24th and Potrero. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some fast food restaurants have short menus focusing on a specific culinary theme -- fried chicken and little besides fried chicken, just burgers, or chili -- and others, like \u003ca href=\"http://www.jackinthebox.com/\">Jack in the Box\u003c/a>, for example, try to be all things for all customers, offering tacos, egg rolls, and cheese-steaks as well as burgers and fries. In my experience, the former -- focused, quality-conscious enterprises in the vein of In-N-Out Burger -- tend to be more successful. To play with the idea, I've come up with a few unique fast food concepts -- inspired appropriately by San Francisco -- to diversify the field.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Offal promises to stay hot in the food world. Falafel is a fast food Americans outside of cities don't know or trust yet. I was thinking a restaurant serving both could be both excellent and successful. \u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/offalchris\">Chris Cosentino\u003c/a> and the proprietors of \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/old-jerusalem-restaurant-san-francisco\">Old Jerusalem\u003c/a> would have to consult. I would call it Fal-off-All in honor of Chik-fil-A and serve lavash wraps stuffed with fried sweetbreads, kidneys, and liver.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mini-cassoulets. Sounds a little precious for sure, but I think even road-trippers in far-flung bastions of rigidity would warm up -- especially in snowy weather. I know I would have loved to stumble across a franchise of Le Petit Confit zipping across Nebraska several Februarys ago.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This past fall, New York City Momofuku impresario \u003ca href=\"http://wineguyworld.blogspot.com/2009/11/blog-post.html\">David Chang\u003c/a> ticked off a bunch of sensitive locals when he semi-drunkenly accused low-watt San Francisco chefs of \"fuckin' just serving figs on a plate.\" He might have been taking a cue from an expat. Over the summer, former A16 and SPQR chef \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2009/09/02/dining/02nate.html\">Nate Appleman\u003c/a> abruptly abandoned local stardom to move to New York in search of a louder buzz. He popped up in a New York Times profile to lightly dis San Francisco diners: \"In San Francisco the audience is easy. You put tripe in a bowl and tell them it's from a humanely raised cow and they're going to eat it.\" In honor of both famous chefs' opinions, someone should start a faux-Chez Panisse fast food restaurant serving austere mockeries of the perfect-simple-thing-in-a-bowl motif: shriveled radish slices with table salt, canned pears with a touch of low-grade honey, and gassed half-green tomatoes with \"balsamic\" drizzles -- all served with pseudo-artisan sourdough bread. Bowls and Rolls -- it'll be huge, I'm telling you.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "To play with the idea, I've come up with a few unique fast food concepts -- inspired appropriately by San Francisco -- to diversify the field.\r\n\r\nOffal promises to stay hot in the food world. Falafel is a fast food Americans outside of cities don't know or trust yet. I was thinking a restaurant serving both could be both excellent and successful. Chris Cosentino and the proprietors of Old Jerusalem would have to consult. I would call it Fal-off-All in honor of Chik-fil-A and serve lavash wraps stuffed with fried sweetbreads, kidneys, and liver.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/02/inandout.jpg\" alt=\"East Coaster at In-N-Out Burger\" title=\"East Coaster at In-N-Out Burger\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-10422\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>An East Coaster gets his first taste of In-N-Out Burger. Photo by Michael V. Chopko\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Growing up, my house was healthy. Bran stocked the cupboard, gallons of skim milk sat in the fridge. We didn't eat fast food except on rare occasions. On busy nights, my parents picked up sprout-laden sandwiches and baked potatoes from our nearest \u003ca href=\"http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_m3190/is_v19/ai_3680221/\">Fresher Cooker\u003c/a> franchise. After multi-million dollar losses year after year, the locally-owned company (conceived as a healthy alternative to burger joints) filed for bankruptcy, folded, and the restaurant in the strip mall parking lot near my house fell apart and came back together as a \u003ca href=\"http://www.skylinechili.com/\">Skyline Chili\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fast food mainly happened on road trips then, when we'd drive from Louisville to New Orleans or Northern Florida for a vacation. I remember one drive down with my brother and dad. I must have been ten. We stopped for fries and \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arch_Deluxe\">Arch Deluxes\u003c/a>. I had a fish sandwich. An hour later, not far from Tuscaloosa, Alabama, my brother started throwing up. He hadn't been poisoned; he was car-sick, a tendency worsened by his habit of doodling in notebooks as the Volvo heaved and pitched over I-65's pocked surface. We stopped at a gas station so my dad could clean him off and buy a styrofoam cooler. My brother was still throwing up, leaning out of the car, near the pump. A scraggly old yokel sauntered over. \"What's wrong with 'im?\" he asked, practically chuckling. My brother threw up into the cooler all the way to Hattiesburg. As soon as he was done, he wanted another burger. Vegetarianism dulled the allure of fast food for a while, but even in college, it permeated the culture. My senior year, I lived next to a \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rax_(restaurant)\">Rax\u003c/a>, a pitiful little lump of a franchise my friends and I always assumed was the last of its kind in the country -- so disconnected so under-patronized that perhaps -- like \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Edwina,_the_Dinosaur_Who_Didn't_Know_She_Was_Extinct\">Edwina, the cookie-baking dinosaur\u003c/a> -- it hadn't gotten wind of its own extinction. Then, for some people, going for fries at Rax was as palatably ironic an act as stacking toilet sculptures in the main quad or carefully growing a neat cop-style mustache to sport above a bemused smirk. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Today, I avoid fast food. I strive to eat healthily, responsibly, and well -- and I manage to get two out of three right most of the time. In other words, if I'm going to eat fried chicken, it's going to be good fried chicken -- featuring a bird whose life was reasonably pleasant prior to its sudden conclusion. However, this general rule isn't always easy to follow. Over the last five years, I have spent a lot of time touring around the country playing music -- and eating on the road in any way resembling that to which I am accustomed in San Francisco is tough if not impossible. If I were more of an urban homesteader, I'd make my own jerky, dry fruit, and roast nuts for snacks. Instead, ducking into parking lights, entranced by warm neon glows, I forage along the inter-states with wildly varying results. Thanks to a soggy half-rotten \"veggie delight\" foot-long somewhere in Michigan, I haven't eaten anything from \u003ca href=\"http://www.subway.com/subwayroot/index.aspx\">Subway\u003c/a> in three years, and I never will again. On the other hand, I have learned that Arby's makes a decent vegetable soup. Its coffee shakes are good too. I have also learned that \u003ca href=\"http://www.carlsjr.com/\">Carl's Jr.\u003c/a> has one healthy sandwich that doesn't make me feel sick after I eat it: the grilled chicken with barbecue sauce and crunchy lettuce on a whole wheat bun. The sauce tastes like low-cal ketchup dosed with liquid smoke, but I don't quibble. I'm always happy to see that yellow star rising up on a pole in the dark next to the highway. In general, grocery stores are better than restaurants. Whenever I stumble across a reasonably well-appointed one, I buy carrots, bananas, bread, and peanut butter, or some deli turkey and cheese. While these eats assault my body with less malice, something remains appealing about fast food on the road, particularly when it's eaten in the car, as music hums from the stereo, and the windows rattles as the wheels tumble along. Towns give way to cities, suburbs, and towns again. The windshield steams up from unwrapped burgers. A greasy smell oozes into the upholstery and hangs in the air between the front seats. Ketchup packets fall on the van floor. Someone steps on one, and he is cursed as red spits across the carpet.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On the West Coast, \u003ca href=\"http://www.in-n-out.com/\">In-N-Out Burger\u003c/a> -- every famous chef's favorite drive-through -- reigns supreme. My band was heading up from Los Angeles last weekend. As we approached the parking lot, the keyboardist, a \u003ca href=\"http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0118715/trivia\">Lebowski\u003c/a> fan visiting from D.C., awoke from a two-hour nap and practically dived out of the rolling van to get his first taste. While little approaches a double-double animal-style, the Midwest and East Coast offer a few nice options you can't get out here. \u003ca href=\"http://www.wawa.com/WawaWeb/\">Wawa\u003c/a>, a Mid-Atlantic chain of convenience stores, has excellent sandwiches you can customize via touch-screen. Frequently found in service plazas along East Coast turnpikes, the Falls Church, Virginia-based \u003ca href=\"http://www.royrogersrestaurants.com/\">Roy Rogers\u003c/a> has the \"Gold Rush\" chicken sandwich, fried breast on a roll with bacon, melted provolone, and honey barbecue sauce. The closest \u003ca href=\"http://www.whitecastle.com/\">White Castle\u003c/a> outpost may be 1 and 1/3 days away from us by car -- in Shakopee, Minnesota to be exact -- but you can buy frozen sliders from Walgreen's stores anywhere. I know because I have done so from the one on 24th and Potrero. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some fast food restaurants have short menus focusing on a specific culinary theme -- fried chicken and little besides fried chicken, just burgers, or chili -- and others, like \u003ca href=\"http://www.jackinthebox.com/\">Jack in the Box\u003c/a>, for example, try to be all things for all customers, offering tacos, egg rolls, and cheese-steaks as well as burgers and fries. In my experience, the former -- focused, quality-conscious enterprises in the vein of In-N-Out Burger -- tend to be more successful. To play with the idea, I've come up with a few unique fast food concepts -- inspired appropriately by San Francisco -- to diversify the field.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Offal promises to stay hot in the food world. Falafel is a fast food Americans outside of cities don't know or trust yet. I was thinking a restaurant serving both could be both excellent and successful. \u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/offalchris\">Chris Cosentino\u003c/a> and the proprietors of \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/old-jerusalem-restaurant-san-francisco\">Old Jerusalem\u003c/a> would have to consult. I would call it Fal-off-All in honor of Chik-fil-A and serve lavash wraps stuffed with fried sweetbreads, kidneys, and liver.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mini-cassoulets. Sounds a little precious for sure, but I think even road-trippers in far-flung bastions of rigidity would warm up -- especially in snowy weather. I know I would have loved to stumble across a franchise of Le Petit Confit zipping across Nebraska several Februarys ago.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This past fall, New York City Momofuku impresario \u003ca href=\"http://wineguyworld.blogspot.com/2009/11/blog-post.html\">David Chang\u003c/a> ticked off a bunch of sensitive locals when he semi-drunkenly accused low-watt San Francisco chefs of \"fuckin' just serving figs on a plate.\" He might have been taking a cue from an expat. Over the summer, former A16 and SPQR chef \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2009/09/02/dining/02nate.html\">Nate Appleman\u003c/a> abruptly abandoned local stardom to move to New York in search of a louder buzz. He popped up in a New York Times profile to lightly dis San Francisco diners: \"In San Francisco the audience is easy. You put tripe in a bowl and tell them it's from a humanely raised cow and they're going to eat it.\" In honor of both famous chefs' opinions, someone should start a faux-Chez Panisse fast food restaurant serving austere mockeries of the perfect-simple-thing-in-a-bowl motif: shriveled radish slices with table salt, canned pears with a touch of low-grade honey, and gassed half-green tomatoes with \"balsamic\" drizzles -- all served with pseudo-artisan sourdough bread. Bowls and Rolls -- it'll be huge, I'm telling you.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/underground-market26.jpg\" alt=\"San Francisco Underground Market - cupcakes\" title=\"San Francisco Underground Market - cupcakes\" width=\"500\" height=\"335\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-10132\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Six o'clock on Friday night, and the line outside the door at 17th and Capp was snaking down past the motorcycle repair shop and around the corner. Clutching brown paper bags of Sam Adams and Tecate, the crowd was a typical Mission mix: young guys in goatees with bike locks slung through their messenger bags, cool dads with baby strapped to their chests in slings, women staying warm in hand-knitted scarves and stripey fingerless gloves, even a few used-bookstore-looking folks with wild gray hair and heavy glasses. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What was the scene? An iPad giveaway? Lifetime free coffee at Four Barrel? A Radiohead jam session? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>No, no, and no...instead, it was the second \u003ca href=\"http://us1.campaign-archive.com/?u=5bb29e249d33f56d1f219edeb&id=b5a3cfff7d\">Underground Farmers' Market\u003c/a>, organized by \u003ca href=\"http://www.foragesf.com/\">ForageSF\u003c/a>'s Iso Rabins. Essentially, an extra-groovy bake sale, held for no reason except to showcase the fun stuff being made by your friends and neighbors. What was on the table? All kinds of delights: kombucha by the jug, bags of peanut brittle and beef jerky, bergamot marmalade, white-grapefruit vanilla jelly, onion-bacon relish, lemonade, butternut-squash lasagna, little bowls of rice and mung-bean stew scooped out of Mason jars, acorn fudge, made-while-you-wait Indian chaat, corned-beef sandwiches, pumpkin pie by the slice, raw chocolate truffles, cupcakes, cucumber marmalade, kale, fresh chanterelles, granola, chipotle popcorn.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ciframe align=\"center\" src=\"http://www.flickr.com/slideShow/index.gne?set_id=72157623185833179&\" frameborder=\"0\" width=\"500\" scrolling=\"no\" height=\"500\">\u003c/iframe>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Photos by \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/wendy-goodfriend/\">Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/a>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Well, awesome, you may say. But this is San Francisco, hardly a place starving for access to raw-chocolate truffles and artisanal chicharrones. Between our dozens of farmers' markets, our thousands of restaurants, and our many, many gourmet stores, why would anyone need to stand in line on Capp Street to score good food? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Because walking into a store and handing over money is easy. Anyone can do it. To get to the Underground Farmers Market, you had to know about it—through Rabins' own 1000+ person email list, through a re-tweet from a street-food cart, or from one of the many blog or media mentions that had been buzzing around the concept since the first market, held last December. Just like at a show by a new band, though, a lot of the attendees seemed to have gotten there the old-fashioned way: they had a friend selling stuff, or knew somebody who knew somebody who told them to check out this cool scene. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So there was the buzz factor, and the undeniable urban urge to be in at the beginning of the next new thing. And, like a warehouse show, there was a little of the\u003cem> Permits? We don't need no stinkin' permits\u003c/em> feeling, too. After all, this was outlaw food, made by artisans canning on the far side of the law—in other words, brewing the 'buch or popping the corn in their home kitchens, uninspected by the health department. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Few of the vendors make their product professionally in commercial kitchens; for most, it's a fun side gig, something they were doing anyway for friends and family, a way to make a little extra money from a particular passion for chocolate or kimchee. (Of course, the continued stream of layoffs have made more and more people seek profit in their passion; at a recent \u003ca href=\"http://www.spur.org/events/calendar/tamales_creme_brulee_economics_streetfood\">SPUR\u003c/a> panel discussion on the economics of street food, Imelda Reyes from the Department of Public Health said she gets 12 to 16 calls a day now from would-be street-food entrepreneurs curious about the permitting process, up from 2 or 3 a week a year ago.) \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Is this how twentysomethings are rebelling now? As outlaw onion-bacon relish-makers, flaunting the law with their organic flax-seed crackers or park-foraged miners' lettuce? Whatever the reasoning, the scene was amazingly cheerful. This was a church social of a different stripe, bringing together like-minded urbanites eager not just to shop and nibble (although shop they did) but to to put a face on their food, talking pickling, swapping project ideas, sharing chicken coop innovations and enthusing about the excellence of Fatted Calf's butchery classes. That bunch of mustard greens? Grown and bunched by Patricia on an eighth-of-an-acre vacant lot in Berkeley, thanks to a friendly landlord happy to see vegetables sprouting instead of weeds and trash. That lemonade? Made by Robin from lemons picked in her friend's backyard, and served up with peanut brittle \"made from stuff I just had in my kitchen.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Selling my own hot-from-the-oven homemade \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/01/09/easy-multi-grain-bread-draft/\">bread\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2009/06/13/recipe-apricot-jam/\">apricot jam\u003c/a> and vanilla pear butter from a card table in the corner, it was easy to feel like instant friends with everyone to whom I handed a warm loaf. After all, I'd kneaded and shaped each bread just a few hours before, peeled every single pear after it was picked at an orchard I knew. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The recession may be fueling a renewed interest in home cooking and small-scale entrepreneurship, but money was definitely being spent. By 10pm, Becky of Urban Preserves estimated that she'd sold over half of the 150 jars she'd brought; Kitty of Kitty's Creations, who makes her products in her church's kitchen in the Sunset, had maybe 5 dozen left of the 14 dozen jars of jam, chutney, and relish she'd walked in with. Slow Jams, on the verge of going pro, charged $10 and up for their sleek jars of sweet and savory jams and relishes; by 9pm, they were sold out and packed up. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By 10:30pm, organizer Iso Rabins looked equally exhausted and thrilled, if a little stunned by the turnout. A lot of advance press and a savvy use of social media, combined with a particular young-urbanite quest for authenticity, had made the night's market popular beyond anything he'd imagined. For the next one, a bigger venue will clearly be necessary. How big can it go and still feel underground? How many of the novelty seekers will come back? How much jam and jerky does the city need? For the moment, it seems, that if you make it, they will come. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Watch \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/tv/programs/thisweek/watch/archive/226548/c\">This Week in Northern California\u003c/a> tonight, \u003cem>Friday January 29 at 8pm\u003c/em> to see \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.kqed.org/food/host-biography/\">Leslie Sbrocco\u003c/a>, host of \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.kqed.org/food/\">Check, Please! Bay Area\u003c/a> in a new segment on local food and wine trends. This week, a conversation about restaurants and the recession and underground food markets with Bay Area Bites bloggers, \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/michael-procopio/\">Michael Procopio\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/stephanie-rosenbaum/\">Stephanie Rosenbaum\u003c/a>.\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/underground-market26.jpg\" alt=\"San Francisco Underground Market - cupcakes\" title=\"San Francisco Underground Market - cupcakes\" width=\"500\" height=\"335\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-10132\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Six o'clock on Friday night, and the line outside the door at 17th and Capp was snaking down past the motorcycle repair shop and around the corner. Clutching brown paper bags of Sam Adams and Tecate, the crowd was a typical Mission mix: young guys in goatees with bike locks slung through their messenger bags, cool dads with baby strapped to their chests in slings, women staying warm in hand-knitted scarves and stripey fingerless gloves, even a few used-bookstore-looking folks with wild gray hair and heavy glasses. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What was the scene? An iPad giveaway? Lifetime free coffee at Four Barrel? A Radiohead jam session? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>No, no, and no...instead, it was the second \u003ca href=\"http://us1.campaign-archive.com/?u=5bb29e249d33f56d1f219edeb&id=b5a3cfff7d\">Underground Farmers' Market\u003c/a>, organized by \u003ca href=\"http://www.foragesf.com/\">ForageSF\u003c/a>'s Iso Rabins. Essentially, an extra-groovy bake sale, held for no reason except to showcase the fun stuff being made by your friends and neighbors. What was on the table? All kinds of delights: kombucha by the jug, bags of peanut brittle and beef jerky, bergamot marmalade, white-grapefruit vanilla jelly, onion-bacon relish, lemonade, butternut-squash lasagna, little bowls of rice and mung-bean stew scooped out of Mason jars, acorn fudge, made-while-you-wait Indian chaat, corned-beef sandwiches, pumpkin pie by the slice, raw chocolate truffles, cupcakes, cucumber marmalade, kale, fresh chanterelles, granola, chipotle popcorn.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ciframe align=\"center\" src=\"http://www.flickr.com/slideShow/index.gne?set_id=72157623185833179&\" frameborder=\"0\" width=\"500\" scrolling=\"no\" height=\"500\">\u003c/iframe>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Photos by \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/wendy-goodfriend/\">Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/a>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Well, awesome, you may say. But this is San Francisco, hardly a place starving for access to raw-chocolate truffles and artisanal chicharrones. Between our dozens of farmers' markets, our thousands of restaurants, and our many, many gourmet stores, why would anyone need to stand in line on Capp Street to score good food? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Because walking into a store and handing over money is easy. Anyone can do it. To get to the Underground Farmers Market, you had to know about it—through Rabins' own 1000+ person email list, through a re-tweet from a street-food cart, or from one of the many blog or media mentions that had been buzzing around the concept since the first market, held last December. Just like at a show by a new band, though, a lot of the attendees seemed to have gotten there the old-fashioned way: they had a friend selling stuff, or knew somebody who knew somebody who told them to check out this cool scene. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So there was the buzz factor, and the undeniable urban urge to be in at the beginning of the next new thing. And, like a warehouse show, there was a little of the\u003cem> Permits? We don't need no stinkin' permits\u003c/em> feeling, too. After all, this was outlaw food, made by artisans canning on the far side of the law—in other words, brewing the 'buch or popping the corn in their home kitchens, uninspected by the health department. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Few of the vendors make their product professionally in commercial kitchens; for most, it's a fun side gig, something they were doing anyway for friends and family, a way to make a little extra money from a particular passion for chocolate or kimchee. (Of course, the continued stream of layoffs have made more and more people seek profit in their passion; at a recent \u003ca href=\"http://www.spur.org/events/calendar/tamales_creme_brulee_economics_streetfood\">SPUR\u003c/a> panel discussion on the economics of street food, Imelda Reyes from the Department of Public Health said she gets 12 to 16 calls a day now from would-be street-food entrepreneurs curious about the permitting process, up from 2 or 3 a week a year ago.) \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Is this how twentysomethings are rebelling now? As outlaw onion-bacon relish-makers, flaunting the law with their organic flax-seed crackers or park-foraged miners' lettuce? Whatever the reasoning, the scene was amazingly cheerful. This was a church social of a different stripe, bringing together like-minded urbanites eager not just to shop and nibble (although shop they did) but to to put a face on their food, talking pickling, swapping project ideas, sharing chicken coop innovations and enthusing about the excellence of Fatted Calf's butchery classes. That bunch of mustard greens? Grown and bunched by Patricia on an eighth-of-an-acre vacant lot in Berkeley, thanks to a friendly landlord happy to see vegetables sprouting instead of weeds and trash. That lemonade? Made by Robin from lemons picked in her friend's backyard, and served up with peanut brittle \"made from stuff I just had in my kitchen.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Selling my own hot-from-the-oven homemade \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/01/09/easy-multi-grain-bread-draft/\">bread\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2009/06/13/recipe-apricot-jam/\">apricot jam\u003c/a> and vanilla pear butter from a card table in the corner, it was easy to feel like instant friends with everyone to whom I handed a warm loaf. After all, I'd kneaded and shaped each bread just a few hours before, peeled every single pear after it was picked at an orchard I knew. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The recession may be fueling a renewed interest in home cooking and small-scale entrepreneurship, but money was definitely being spent. By 10pm, Becky of Urban Preserves estimated that she'd sold over half of the 150 jars she'd brought; Kitty of Kitty's Creations, who makes her products in her church's kitchen in the Sunset, had maybe 5 dozen left of the 14 dozen jars of jam, chutney, and relish she'd walked in with. Slow Jams, on the verge of going pro, charged $10 and up for their sleek jars of sweet and savory jams and relishes; by 9pm, they were sold out and packed up. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By 10:30pm, organizer Iso Rabins looked equally exhausted and thrilled, if a little stunned by the turnout. A lot of advance press and a savvy use of social media, combined with a particular young-urbanite quest for authenticity, had made the night's market popular beyond anything he'd imagined. For the next one, a bigger venue will clearly be necessary. How big can it go and still feel underground? How many of the novelty seekers will come back? How much jam and jerky does the city need? For the moment, it seems, that if you make it, they will come. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cp>Someone must close down the bar, but I am through volunteering for the position. This is not to say bourbon has lost its bloom, or that work days do not begin with brief foamy fantasies about the first cold beers to be cracked eight hours later. I can say (with a straight face) that serious carousing is an occupation for swollen wallets and spare time, and claim that, as of late, I have neither. I can rationalize moderation because I wake up very early and tire before last call the following morning. I can insist that going out is harder than staying in, especially when it's raining and there's work to do and Netflix in the mailbox. I can affect a jaded outlook, yawning that the sport of drinking doesn't hold the appeal it had ten years ago. I can label it a secondary activity, something I associate with games to watch, gigs to play, food to eat, and good conversations with friends. Big nights happen, yes, but usually on accident, I can say -- candidly, with no regrets. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Those are all parts of the problem (if embracing moderation can ever be considered one) but the real reason, the one that really has me avoiding bars and heading home early when I can't, is that these days, when I drink too much, my hangovers hit like \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_MY3RtJUrD8\">Mike Tyson circa 1986\u003c/a>. After a few too many, I wake up stuffy, morose, disoriented, ugly, and sore. I don't ever get sick, but I forget details about where I went and who I saw. I don't have the energy to do the things that the day ahead demands, and my mood plummets correspondingly. When I was 20, I could shake off boozy sweats, dehydration, and body aches, and spring out of bed after five hours of sleep to bound around the house, read, study, and socialize -- all miraculously on an empty stomach. Now, on those increasingly infrequent occasions where I over-indulge, I am discovering that I desperately require food -- breakfast maybe, or at least a snack of heroic proportions -- to piece myself together again.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Restorative noshing is welcome immediately after the party, or hours later, upon waking. The fact that I've only really realized this in the latter half of my twenties probably says something about my learning curve in general. If hunger pangs strike on the way home from the bar, possibilities are limited. Most restaurants aren't open. Chorizo tacos from \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/el-farolito-san-francisco-2\">El Farolito\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://maps.google.com/maps/place?hl=en&client=safari&rls=en&um=1&ie=UTF-8&q=la+vallarta+sf&fb=1&gl=us&hq=la+vallarta&hnear=sf&cid=3981052901989885288\">Taqueria Vallarta\u003c/a> hit the spot. I haven't been, but \u003ca href=\"http://myizakaya.com/\">Nombe\u003c/a>, the new-ish izakaya on Mission St., has a late-night take-out window selling ramen to revelers staggering home. Sometimes, an attack on the refrigerator is the best and cheapest recourse. I went out on Saturday night and stayed out -- gasp -- until 1 a.m. When I came home I realized nearly everything in the house that I felt like eating was being saved for a dinner with my dad the following night -- sausage for pizza, bread for croutons, and olives. Instead, I microwaved some leftover white rice and added salt and a few squirts of srirachi sauce. Something with srirachi sauce usually does the trick. Lately, I've also been especially enjoying plain corn tortillas roasted on a cast-iron skillet and then topped with srirachi and a few creamy squiggles of \u003ca href=\"http://www.thekitchn.com/thekitchn/condiments-dressings/what-is-kewpie-mayonnaise-044639\">Kewpie mayonnaise\u003c/a>. I do two at a time, folded over like miniature fusion-y quesadillas, and eat them fast, usually burning my mouth in the process. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For those disinclined to wallow in gastronomic gutters, there is also, of course, street food -- bacon dogs, tamales, and the ever-growing assortment of heavily Twittered carts that tend to pop up on corners outside the doors of drinking establishments. As good as some of this stuff is (I'm thinking about you, gumbo guy), such trendy offerings come with long lines, and waiting fifteen minutes for a grilled flatbread behind a bunch of ravenous drunk people is rarely an attractive option when you're ravenous and drunk yourself. Fifteen minutes? I could be home by then, putting the final drizzle of srirachi on a corn tortilla, wearing the sweats, watching a little Larry David before passing out with a smile on my face. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/tortilla-srirachi-mayo500.jpg\" alt=\"tortilla with srirachi and Kewpie mayonnaise\" title=\"tortilla with srirachi and Kewpie mayonnaise\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9815\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Tortilla with srirachi and Kewpie mayonnaise. You won't see this in Saveur.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Alcohol stirs the strangest cravings the morning after. Some people wake up and go for eggs, pancakes, waffles, sausage, and other conventional breakfast-y things. There is scientific logic to this. Eggs contain cysteine, a substance that breaks down the hangover-causing toxin acetaldehyde in the liver. Fruit juice actually hastens the rate at which a body gets ride of toxins like those generated by alcohol metabolism. Bananas, also common at breakfast, replace potassium lost to alcohol's diuretic tendencies. Fried or stupendously unhealthy foods appeal because sufferers suspect that grease will soothe their irritated stomach linings -- nevermind the fact that it's more likely to have the opposite effect. Psychology is powerful, however, especially the morning after losing brain cells, and I think that sometimes people condition themselves to crave the very things that will hurt them more. It's, in the long run, a fairly harmless sort of self-loathing -- sitting down to a plate of battered chicken, savoring the punishment disguised as a cure, letting your over-taxed body pay the tab your inconsiderate brain racked up. Some treat their morning afflictions like illness and self-medicate with more austere feasts -- steamed vegetables, spicy broths, and so on. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Every year, usually when New Year's Eve approaches, publications feel it necessary to run stories about hangovers and how to avoid them. Typically, these pieces involve interviews with bartenders, operating under the assumption that these callous dispensers of liquid poison know something about recovery too. On Christmas Eve, Grub Street \u003ca href=\"http://sanfrancisco.grubstreet.com/2009/12/sf_bartenders_share_their_favo.html\">consulted\u003c/a> some mixologists on the subject, and the responses were fairly telegraphed, with most suggesting hair of the dog remedies. Likewise, a Dec. 31 Examiner article \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfexaminer.com/entertainment/Handy-cures-for-holiday-hangovers-80371202.html\">expanded\u003c/a> the sample group and saw similar results, with respondents largely sticking to the guns articulated by their respective professions. The bartender recommended more booze. The personal trainer advocated drinking plenty of water and working out. The doctor condemned drinking too much in the first place. The acupuncturist suggested acupuncture. I'm not sure if I have a profession to stick to, but I have done both drinking and thinking in my day, and for that reason, I hesitate to press any so-called \"cures\" on others. Hangovers are, after all, very personal things. I will however share a few meals that I have managed to enjoy under the bleariest of circumstances:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Indian buffet.\u003c/strong> This goes back to a summer home from college. The morning after a long night, some friends and I went to an Indian restaurant attached to a worn motel. After three plates of chicken korma, saag paneer, and samosas, I felt well enough to spend the rest of the day at the zoo. I'm not sure if there's a San Francisco equivalent, but once I woke up in San Jose, went to \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/new-indian-cuisine-san-jose#hrid:4hAyRH5dgltohBCagstFaA/src:search/query:buffet%20indian\">New Indian Cuisine\u003c/a>, and came away again convinced that naan is merely Advil slicked with ghee.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>A breaded chicken torta with chipotles\u003c/strong> from \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/la-torta-gorda-san-francisco\">La Torta Gorda\u003c/a>. I'm always momentarily tempted to get a junior, but the full is the way to go. Go home, eat half, and put the remainder in the fridge. Get some covers and stretch out on the couch. Watch basketball or half a season of a television show you've already seen. Look up at the clock. It's nearly dinner-time. Good thing you have a brick-sized piece of torta to eat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>A pickle, dill.\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Soup.\u003c/strong> I'm a soup person -- that could be a post in and of itself -- but it doesn't help my hangovers unless it's French onion from \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/ti-couz-san-francisco\">Ti Couz\u003c/a>, with some seafood salad and maybe a mushroom crepe on the side. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Chicken fingers and waffle fries with ranch dressing\u003c/strong> from \u003ca href=\"http://www.phatphillys.com/\">Phat Philly\u003c/a>. This is actually my girlfriend's thing. She's yelling at me from the other room to include it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.johncampbells.com/\">John Campbell's Irish Bakery\u003c/a>. Once, a few years ago, I was staying out at my dad's in the Richmond District -- dog-sitting, house sitting, and cable-watching -- and I woke up after a night out with a painkiller-resistant headache, a sour hollow stomach, and my dad's whippet dashing around the bed in frantic circles. I had hopped off the 38 at 1:30 a.m. and decided to grab one more at the Blarney Stone. Pulling on a coat, leashing the dog, and stepping out into the stabbing mist, I walked back to the scene of the crime and had a piece of pizza (it might have been called \"focaccia\") from John Campbell's, the fantastic bakery next door to the 'Stone. This was like nothing you'd see at A16, Flour + Water, or even Pizza Hut. There was turkey or ham in cubes, peppers and onions, maybe. A white sauce and cheese, I want to say. The dog was whimpering, begging for a taste. I can't recall the details, but the slice (a slab, really) was like a combination of stew and scone, or an upside-down pot pie even -- bread-y, bland, and bad, at least as far as pizza goes. Yet held to a different standard -- alcohol absorption -- it delivered -- nearly as well as a corn tortilla with hot sauce and mayo.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Someone must close down the bar, but I am through volunteering for the position. This is not to say bourbon has lost its bloom, or that work days do not begin with brief foamy fantasies about the first cold beers to be cracked eight hours later. I can say (with a straight face) that serious carousing is an occupation for swollen wallets and spare time, and claim that, as of late, I have neither. I can rationalize moderation because I wake up very early and tire before last call the following morning. I can insist that going out is harder than staying in, especially when it's raining and there's work to do and Netflix in the mailbox. I can affect a jaded outlook, yawning that the sport of drinking doesn't hold the appeal it had ten years ago. I can label it a secondary activity, something I associate with games to watch, gigs to play, food to eat, and good conversations with friends. Big nights happen, yes, but usually on accident, I can say -- candidly, with no regrets. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Those are all parts of the problem (if embracing moderation can ever be considered one) but the real reason, the one that really has me avoiding bars and heading home early when I can't, is that these days, when I drink too much, my hangovers hit like \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_MY3RtJUrD8\">Mike Tyson circa 1986\u003c/a>. After a few too many, I wake up stuffy, morose, disoriented, ugly, and sore. I don't ever get sick, but I forget details about where I went and who I saw. I don't have the energy to do the things that the day ahead demands, and my mood plummets correspondingly. When I was 20, I could shake off boozy sweats, dehydration, and body aches, and spring out of bed after five hours of sleep to bound around the house, read, study, and socialize -- all miraculously on an empty stomach. Now, on those increasingly infrequent occasions where I over-indulge, I am discovering that I desperately require food -- breakfast maybe, or at least a snack of heroic proportions -- to piece myself together again.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Restorative noshing is welcome immediately after the party, or hours later, upon waking. The fact that I've only really realized this in the latter half of my twenties probably says something about my learning curve in general. If hunger pangs strike on the way home from the bar, possibilities are limited. Most restaurants aren't open. Chorizo tacos from \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/el-farolito-san-francisco-2\">El Farolito\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://maps.google.com/maps/place?hl=en&client=safari&rls=en&um=1&ie=UTF-8&q=la+vallarta+sf&fb=1&gl=us&hq=la+vallarta&hnear=sf&cid=3981052901989885288\">Taqueria Vallarta\u003c/a> hit the spot. I haven't been, but \u003ca href=\"http://myizakaya.com/\">Nombe\u003c/a>, the new-ish izakaya on Mission St., has a late-night take-out window selling ramen to revelers staggering home. Sometimes, an attack on the refrigerator is the best and cheapest recourse. I went out on Saturday night and stayed out -- gasp -- until 1 a.m. When I came home I realized nearly everything in the house that I felt like eating was being saved for a dinner with my dad the following night -- sausage for pizza, bread for croutons, and olives. Instead, I microwaved some leftover white rice and added salt and a few squirts of srirachi sauce. Something with srirachi sauce usually does the trick. Lately, I've also been especially enjoying plain corn tortillas roasted on a cast-iron skillet and then topped with srirachi and a few creamy squiggles of \u003ca href=\"http://www.thekitchn.com/thekitchn/condiments-dressings/what-is-kewpie-mayonnaise-044639\">Kewpie mayonnaise\u003c/a>. I do two at a time, folded over like miniature fusion-y quesadillas, and eat them fast, usually burning my mouth in the process. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For those disinclined to wallow in gastronomic gutters, there is also, of course, street food -- bacon dogs, tamales, and the ever-growing assortment of heavily Twittered carts that tend to pop up on corners outside the doors of drinking establishments. As good as some of this stuff is (I'm thinking about you, gumbo guy), such trendy offerings come with long lines, and waiting fifteen minutes for a grilled flatbread behind a bunch of ravenous drunk people is rarely an attractive option when you're ravenous and drunk yourself. Fifteen minutes? I could be home by then, putting the final drizzle of srirachi on a corn tortilla, wearing the sweats, watching a little Larry David before passing out with a smile on my face. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/tortilla-srirachi-mayo500.jpg\" alt=\"tortilla with srirachi and Kewpie mayonnaise\" title=\"tortilla with srirachi and Kewpie mayonnaise\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9815\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Tortilla with srirachi and Kewpie mayonnaise. You won't see this in Saveur.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Alcohol stirs the strangest cravings the morning after. Some people wake up and go for eggs, pancakes, waffles, sausage, and other conventional breakfast-y things. There is scientific logic to this. Eggs contain cysteine, a substance that breaks down the hangover-causing toxin acetaldehyde in the liver. Fruit juice actually hastens the rate at which a body gets ride of toxins like those generated by alcohol metabolism. Bananas, also common at breakfast, replace potassium lost to alcohol's diuretic tendencies. Fried or stupendously unhealthy foods appeal because sufferers suspect that grease will soothe their irritated stomach linings -- nevermind the fact that it's more likely to have the opposite effect. Psychology is powerful, however, especially the morning after losing brain cells, and I think that sometimes people condition themselves to crave the very things that will hurt them more. It's, in the long run, a fairly harmless sort of self-loathing -- sitting down to a plate of battered chicken, savoring the punishment disguised as a cure, letting your over-taxed body pay the tab your inconsiderate brain racked up. Some treat their morning afflictions like illness and self-medicate with more austere feasts -- steamed vegetables, spicy broths, and so on. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Every year, usually when New Year's Eve approaches, publications feel it necessary to run stories about hangovers and how to avoid them. Typically, these pieces involve interviews with bartenders, operating under the assumption that these callous dispensers of liquid poison know something about recovery too. On Christmas Eve, Grub Street \u003ca href=\"http://sanfrancisco.grubstreet.com/2009/12/sf_bartenders_share_their_favo.html\">consulted\u003c/a> some mixologists on the subject, and the responses were fairly telegraphed, with most suggesting hair of the dog remedies. Likewise, a Dec. 31 Examiner article \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfexaminer.com/entertainment/Handy-cures-for-holiday-hangovers-80371202.html\">expanded\u003c/a> the sample group and saw similar results, with respondents largely sticking to the guns articulated by their respective professions. The bartender recommended more booze. The personal trainer advocated drinking plenty of water and working out. The doctor condemned drinking too much in the first place. The acupuncturist suggested acupuncture. I'm not sure if I have a profession to stick to, but I have done both drinking and thinking in my day, and for that reason, I hesitate to press any so-called \"cures\" on others. Hangovers are, after all, very personal things. I will however share a few meals that I have managed to enjoy under the bleariest of circumstances:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Indian buffet.\u003c/strong> This goes back to a summer home from college. The morning after a long night, some friends and I went to an Indian restaurant attached to a worn motel. After three plates of chicken korma, saag paneer, and samosas, I felt well enough to spend the rest of the day at the zoo. I'm not sure if there's a San Francisco equivalent, but once I woke up in San Jose, went to \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/new-indian-cuisine-san-jose#hrid:4hAyRH5dgltohBCagstFaA/src:search/query:buffet%20indian\">New Indian Cuisine\u003c/a>, and came away again convinced that naan is merely Advil slicked with ghee.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>A breaded chicken torta with chipotles\u003c/strong> from \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/la-torta-gorda-san-francisco\">La Torta Gorda\u003c/a>. I'm always momentarily tempted to get a junior, but the full is the way to go. Go home, eat half, and put the remainder in the fridge. Get some covers and stretch out on the couch. Watch basketball or half a season of a television show you've already seen. Look up at the clock. It's nearly dinner-time. Good thing you have a brick-sized piece of torta to eat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>A pickle, dill.\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Soup.\u003c/strong> I'm a soup person -- that could be a post in and of itself -- but it doesn't help my hangovers unless it's French onion from \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/ti-couz-san-francisco\">Ti Couz\u003c/a>, with some seafood salad and maybe a mushroom crepe on the side. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Chicken fingers and waffle fries with ranch dressing\u003c/strong> from \u003ca href=\"http://www.phatphillys.com/\">Phat Philly\u003c/a>. This is actually my girlfriend's thing. She's yelling at me from the other room to include it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.johncampbells.com/\">John Campbell's Irish Bakery\u003c/a>. Once, a few years ago, I was staying out at my dad's in the Richmond District -- dog-sitting, house sitting, and cable-watching -- and I woke up after a night out with a painkiller-resistant headache, a sour hollow stomach, and my dad's whippet dashing around the bed in frantic circles. I had hopped off the 38 at 1:30 a.m. and decided to grab one more at the Blarney Stone. Pulling on a coat, leashing the dog, and stepping out into the stabbing mist, I walked back to the scene of the crime and had a piece of pizza (it might have been called \"focaccia\") from John Campbell's, the fantastic bakery next door to the 'Stone. This was like nothing you'd see at A16, Flour + Water, or even Pizza Hut. There was turkey or ham in cubes, peppers and onions, maybe. A white sauce and cheese, I want to say. The dog was whimpering, begging for a taste. I can't recall the details, but the slice (a slab, really) was like a combination of stew and scone, or an upside-down pot pie even -- bread-y, bland, and bad, at least as far as pizza goes. Yet held to a different standard -- alcohol absorption -- it delivered -- nearly as well as a corn tortilla with hot sauce and mayo.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/12/steakpotatoes-248x140.jpg\" alt=\"steak and potatoes\" title=\"steak and potatoes\" width=\"248\" height=\"140\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-9335\">\u003cstrong>KQED Radio's Forum:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/epArchive/R200912291000\">The Decade in Food\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nIn the past decade, the Bay Area's hippest food has changed from teetering geometric towers of raw tuna to a simple slab of pork with a side of potatoes. The dainty Apple-tini ordered in the early part of the decade has given way to the masculine Manhattan. Forum talks about the food and cocktail trends of the decade.\u003cbr clear=\"all\"> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cobject width=\"335\" height=\"85\">\u003cparam name=\"movie\" value=\"http://www.kqed.org/assets/flash/kqedplayer.swf\">\u003cparam name=\"wmode\" value=\"transparent\">\u003cparam name=\"flashvars\" value=\"file=http://www.kqed.org/radio/archives/R200912291000.xml\">\u003cembed src=\"http://www.kqed.org/assets/flash/kqedplayer.swf\" type=\"application/x-shockwave-flash\" wmode=\"transparent\" width=\"335\" height=\"85\" flashvars=\"file=http://www.kqed.org/radio/archives/R200912291000.xml\">\u003c/embed>\u003c/object>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Host:\u003c/strong> Scott Shafer\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Guest:\u003c/strong> Lessley Anderson, senior editor of \u003ca href=\"http://www.chow.com\">Chow.com\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/vietnam_saigon_oct09-556.jpg\" alt=\"vietnam saigon snails\" title=\"vietnam saigon snails\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7849\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Making amazing snails in District 1, Oc Huong Pho Mai\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I've been eating myself silly the past 15 days -- I know, what's new. But no, this has been a really special kind of silly. The eating-my-way-through \u003cstrong>Vietnam\u003c/strong> kind of silly!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Well, to be more specific, not quite all of Vietnam, since an unexpected detour to Hong Kong for a roundtrip price of $150 proved too tempting to pass up, but for sure, through a majority of Ho Chi Minh City (a.k.a. Saigon).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There is a good reason why even hardened eaters like Anthony Bourdain have fallen so in love with the cuisine of Vietnam. It's fresh, vibrant, varied, and satisfying without feeling gluttonously heavy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And, most often, it is cooked on the spot, right before your eyes, on the street, by someone who has been making that one particular dish over and over, for years, decades, quite possibly, generations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Since Hua's father and uncles are locals, we had the benefit of zipping about on the back of their motorbikes (amongst the unimaginable number of other motorbikes on the road), being led by the nose to some of the most delicious food I have ever tasted.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That's a big statement, I know, but I stand by it. These local favorites are something special. Purveyors of food so good, so exciting, so complex in flavor yet simple in execution, I ate like I was starved (which is absurd because I don’t think I once felt the sensation of \"hunger\" the entire trip). I now pass this joy to you. Go seek these places/dishes out:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/vietnam_saigon_oct09-022.jpg\" alt=\"vietnam saigon Cha Gue\" title=\"vietnam saigon Cha Gue\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7844\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Cha Gue, Nen Nha Dat\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Place: Nen Nha Dat \u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>While I don't think this is the real \"name\" of this vendor, this is what the sign says above the storefront where this little set-up is situated.\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Dish:\u003c/strong> Cha Gue (pronounced \"chow gway\")\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Translation:\u003c/strong> Pan-fried Rice Flour Cake with Egg\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Address:\u003c/strong> 91 Ha Ton Quyen (cross street: Tan Thanh) - P.15, Q.5\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/vietnam_saigon_oct09-019.jpg\" alt=\"vietnam saigon Awaiting Cha Gue \" title=\"vietnam saigon Awaiting Cha Gue \" width=\"333\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7843\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Awaiting Cha Gue \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Located in District 5, sort of like the Chinatown of HCMC, Hua's dad took us here for a snack on Day 1. The bar was set high early. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The dish consisted of thick, rectangular pieces of pan-fried rice flour cake. The perfect golden crisp on the outside is beautifully offset by the smooth, supple texture on the inside. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When the rice cakes are nearing the end of their browning, an egg is cracked over them and the rich orange-hued yolk is broken. Throw a handful of minced green onion on the pan to warm through, and add bits of fried onion, fried pork skin (like little precious bits of chicharrones), and garlic. The dish is then served with a side of homemade pickled daikon and carrot slaw, and a savory dipping sauce of sweet soy sauce and a dollop of chili sauce. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/vietnam_saigon_oct09-016.jpg\" alt=\"vietnam saigon Cha Gue, Nen Nha Dat\" title=\"vietnam saigon Cha Gue, Nen Nha Dat\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7842\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Cha Gue, Nen Nha Dat\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Cha Gue, hot off the pan, had this corner bumpin', and even in the rain people were pulling up on their motorbikes and shouting their orders to-go from the street. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Apparently, business is so good that the owner doesn't want to grow his operations because he's afraid he wouldn't be able to handle the volume. Interesting how this kind of success would inspire a very different response back home, as I envisioned a fleet of Kogi taco trucks multiplying like rabbits in the streets of LA. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/vietnam_saigon_oct09-579.jpg\" alt=\"vietnam saigon Wok-fried Snails, Oc Huong Pho Mai\" title=\"vietnam saigon Wok-fried Snails, Oc Huong Pho Mai\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7851\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Wok-fried Snails, Oc Huong Pho Mai\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Place: Oc Huong Pho Mai\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Dish:\u003c/strong> Wok-fried Snails in a heavenly sauce\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Translation:\u003c/strong> Bliss\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Address:\u003c/strong> 37/3 Nguyen Cauh Chan - Q.1\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After day of shopping in Saigon Square we were carted off to rejuvenate ourselves with a little pre-dinner feast of the most amazing snails I've ever had.\u003cbr>\nI was skeptical as we turned onto a tiny, dimly-lit, nondescript, side-street. It would have been a little sketchy if it wasn't for the insanely cute kindergarten class that was being held a few doors down. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/vietnam_saigon_oct09-543.jpg\" alt=\"vietnam saigon cute kids\" title=\"vietnam saigon cute kids\" width=\"333\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7848\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Cute kids near snails\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The set up of the shop was typical -- a kitchen (comprised of a few burners and a grill) that spilled out from the ground floor of someone's home onto the street, a few small tables and chairs along the street, and an extra bonus here, a lady squeezing fresh sugarcane juice right across the street! It couldn't have been better.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/vietnam_saigon_oct09-561.jpg\" alt=\"vietnam saigon Making fresh sugarcane juice\" title=\"vietnam saigon Making fresh sugarcane juice\" width=\"333\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7850\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Making fresh sugarcane juice\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We over-ordered of course, and out came dishes of small snails, large snails, clams, crab, even \u003cstrong>balut\u003c/strong>! \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For those unfamiliar, balut is a fertilized duck egg with a nearly-developed embryo inside that is boiled and then eaten out of the shell with a spoon. You heard right, a partial chick (please don't hate me). Since it was my first time trying this delicacy, I was advised not to look directly at it (kind of like that adage of not staring into the sun). The texture can be challenging if you're squeamish, and you can't help but look too closely, but the flavor was good. As expected, a combo of an egg and chicken, but all in one bite. A little dish of salt and pepper mixed with lemon juice added a nice kick of flavor, and of course, some herbage, coriander leaves.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That was probably the most exotic thing I tried on this trip, but the snails! Those may have been the best. Boiled first to cook through, then finished off in a wok, seared until some magical sauce evaporated and coated the shells. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/vietnam_saigon_oct09-587.jpg\" alt=\"vietnam saigon eating snails\" title=\"vietnam saigon eating snails\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7852\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Bliss\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The snails themselves were meaty and succulent, but the sauce, now that was truly extraordinary: a little creamy and cheesy, with a touch of sweetness, and a tinge of heat that played on our lips. It was caramelized into almost a crust on the shells. We unabashedly licked our fingers clean while still reaching for more. The flavor teased us as we chased after it, wanting to savor it, have more of it, freakin' bathe in it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/vietnam_saigon_oct09-465.jpg\" alt=\"vietnam saigon Hu Tiu Nam Vang, Tin Phuc\" title=\"vietnam saigon Hu Tiu Nam Vang, Tin Phuc\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7845\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Hu Tiu Nam Vang, Tin Phuc\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Place: Tin Phuc\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Dish:\u003c/strong> Hu Tiu Nam Vang (pronounced \"hoo tee-yoo nam vang\")\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Translation:\u003c/strong> Pork and Crab Noodle Soup\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Address:\u003c/strong> 16 Duong Dinh Nghe (cross street: Cu Xa Binh Thoi) - P.8, Q.11\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/vietnam_saigon_oct09-472.jpg\" alt=\"vietnam saigon Tin Phuc\" title=\"vietnam saigon Tin Phuc\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7847\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Tin Phuc\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tin Phuc is more of restaurant than actual street food, although, with its breezy architecture, you could technically drive right in if you really wanted to.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Regardless, it is delicious. Only one dish is served so you can't mess up the order: Hu Tiu Nam Vang. (In Cantonese we call it \"gum been fun.\") You can order it \"dry\" but the soup is so good that you probably won't want to.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Basically, hu tiu is a noodle soup similar to pho, but more seafood-based and with a light broth. Prior to this meal, I had never tasted it before, so I did some research on its origins. Vietnamese culinary expert \u003cstrong>Andrea Nguyen\u003c/strong> had much light to shed regarding this \u003ca href=\"http://vietworldkitchen.typepad.com/blog/2007/11/hu-tieu-nam-van.html\">addictive dish.\u003c/a> According to Andrea, \"At its core, hu tieu signals a Chinese-Southeast Asian style noodle soup made with a pork bone broth and no fish sauce.\" But, there are many riffs on it, one of which is the Nam Vang style, \"Nam Vang\" being the Vietnamese word for Phnom Penh (the capital of Cambodia). Thus, Vietnam's proximity to Cambodia resulted in this Cambodian-Chinese concoction.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/vietnam_saigon_oct09-468.jpg\" alt=\"vietnam saigon herbs\" title=\"vietnam saigon herbs\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7846\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Herbage\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tin Phuc's rendition of Hu Tiu Nam Vang is divine. The soup is phenomenal, sweet and rich, made from the stock of pork bones and crab shells. The angel-hair-thin opaque rice noodles have just the right amount of springy chew to them. And the toppings are generous portions of pork meat, tendon and heart, crab meat, and shrimp. Tear up handfuls of leafy Romaine, Chinese celery and flat Chinese chives, add some crunchy bean sprouts, a touch of chili pepper, and you good to go. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The result is soul-satisfying. Warm, comforting, full of umami, fresh and healthy feeling. I bet a bowl of this could cure a cold like nobody's business.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The best part? Lunch for 5 people here rolled up to a mere $9.75 USD.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/vietnam_saigon_oct09-598.jpg\" alt=\"vietnam saigon Street Scene\" title=\"vietnam saigon Street Scene\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7853\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Street Scene\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Back in September, Thy Tran wrote a great article on \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2009/09/01/beyond-festivals-street-food-actually-on-streets-and-sidewalks/\">Street Food Beyond Festivals\u003c/a> in which she compares the young street food culture in the U.S. to other places where it has been \"long embedded into their daily rhythms.\" Witnessing the street food culture of Saigon brought that alive for me. Daily rhythm is right, it seemed like everyone eats out all the time whether it’s having your morning coffee delivered to your front door from the coffee lady down the street, getting some fruit to-go from the number of fruit vendors rolling around, or popping a squat on a little plastic chair at a tea-party-sized table for dinner. Sure, the convenience, affordability, and quality of product are all great. But it is the daily human interaction, the chit chat, the sense of community that comes with it, that makes this daily rhythm so soothing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Nen Nha Dat (for Cha Gue)\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n91 Ha Ton Quyen (cross street: Tan Thanh) - P.15, Q.5\u003cbr>\nHo Chi Minh City, Vietnam\u003cbr>\nPhone: 0903380574 \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Oc Huong Pho Mai (for Snails)\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n37/3 Nguyen Cauh Chan - Q.1\u003cbr>\nHo Chi Minh City, Vietnam\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Tin Phuc (for Hu Tiu Nam Vang)\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n16 Duong Dinh Nghe (cross street: Cu Xa Binh Thoi) - P.8, Q.11\u003cbr>\nHo Chi Minh City, Vietnam\u003cbr>\nPhone: 3.9627977\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "There is a good reason why even hardened eaters like Anthony Bourdain have fallen so in love with the cuisine of Vietnam. It's fresh, vibrant, varied, and satisfying without feeling gluttonously heavy.\r\n\r\nAnd, most often, it is cooked on the spot, right before your eyes, on the street, by someone who has been making that one particular dish over and over, for years, decades, quite possibly, generations.\r\n\r\nHere are my top 3 street food hidden gems tucked away among the side streets of Ho Chi Minh City.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/vietnam_saigon_oct09-556.jpg\" alt=\"vietnam saigon snails\" title=\"vietnam saigon snails\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7849\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Making amazing snails in District 1, Oc Huong Pho Mai\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I've been eating myself silly the past 15 days -- I know, what's new. But no, this has been a really special kind of silly. The eating-my-way-through \u003cstrong>Vietnam\u003c/strong> kind of silly!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Well, to be more specific, not quite all of Vietnam, since an unexpected detour to Hong Kong for a roundtrip price of $150 proved too tempting to pass up, but for sure, through a majority of Ho Chi Minh City (a.k.a. Saigon).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There is a good reason why even hardened eaters like Anthony Bourdain have fallen so in love with the cuisine of Vietnam. It's fresh, vibrant, varied, and satisfying without feeling gluttonously heavy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And, most often, it is cooked on the spot, right before your eyes, on the street, by someone who has been making that one particular dish over and over, for years, decades, quite possibly, generations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Since Hua's father and uncles are locals, we had the benefit of zipping about on the back of their motorbikes (amongst the unimaginable number of other motorbikes on the road), being led by the nose to some of the most delicious food I have ever tasted.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That's a big statement, I know, but I stand by it. These local favorites are something special. Purveyors of food so good, so exciting, so complex in flavor yet simple in execution, I ate like I was starved (which is absurd because I don’t think I once felt the sensation of \"hunger\" the entire trip). I now pass this joy to you. Go seek these places/dishes out:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/vietnam_saigon_oct09-022.jpg\" alt=\"vietnam saigon Cha Gue\" title=\"vietnam saigon Cha Gue\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7844\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Cha Gue, Nen Nha Dat\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Place: Nen Nha Dat \u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>While I don't think this is the real \"name\" of this vendor, this is what the sign says above the storefront where this little set-up is situated.\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Dish:\u003c/strong> Cha Gue (pronounced \"chow gway\")\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Translation:\u003c/strong> Pan-fried Rice Flour Cake with Egg\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Address:\u003c/strong> 91 Ha Ton Quyen (cross street: Tan Thanh) - P.15, Q.5\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/vietnam_saigon_oct09-019.jpg\" alt=\"vietnam saigon Awaiting Cha Gue \" title=\"vietnam saigon Awaiting Cha Gue \" width=\"333\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7843\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Awaiting Cha Gue \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Located in District 5, sort of like the Chinatown of HCMC, Hua's dad took us here for a snack on Day 1. The bar was set high early. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The dish consisted of thick, rectangular pieces of pan-fried rice flour cake. The perfect golden crisp on the outside is beautifully offset by the smooth, supple texture on the inside. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When the rice cakes are nearing the end of their browning, an egg is cracked over them and the rich orange-hued yolk is broken. Throw a handful of minced green onion on the pan to warm through, and add bits of fried onion, fried pork skin (like little precious bits of chicharrones), and garlic. The dish is then served with a side of homemade pickled daikon and carrot slaw, and a savory dipping sauce of sweet soy sauce and a dollop of chili sauce. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/vietnam_saigon_oct09-016.jpg\" alt=\"vietnam saigon Cha Gue, Nen Nha Dat\" title=\"vietnam saigon Cha Gue, Nen Nha Dat\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7842\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Cha Gue, Nen Nha Dat\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Cha Gue, hot off the pan, had this corner bumpin', and even in the rain people were pulling up on their motorbikes and shouting their orders to-go from the street. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Apparently, business is so good that the owner doesn't want to grow his operations because he's afraid he wouldn't be able to handle the volume. Interesting how this kind of success would inspire a very different response back home, as I envisioned a fleet of Kogi taco trucks multiplying like rabbits in the streets of LA. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/vietnam_saigon_oct09-579.jpg\" alt=\"vietnam saigon Wok-fried Snails, Oc Huong Pho Mai\" title=\"vietnam saigon Wok-fried Snails, Oc Huong Pho Mai\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7851\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Wok-fried Snails, Oc Huong Pho Mai\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Place: Oc Huong Pho Mai\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Dish:\u003c/strong> Wok-fried Snails in a heavenly sauce\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Translation:\u003c/strong> Bliss\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Address:\u003c/strong> 37/3 Nguyen Cauh Chan - Q.1\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After day of shopping in Saigon Square we were carted off to rejuvenate ourselves with a little pre-dinner feast of the most amazing snails I've ever had.\u003cbr>\nI was skeptical as we turned onto a tiny, dimly-lit, nondescript, side-street. It would have been a little sketchy if it wasn't for the insanely cute kindergarten class that was being held a few doors down. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/vietnam_saigon_oct09-543.jpg\" alt=\"vietnam saigon cute kids\" title=\"vietnam saigon cute kids\" width=\"333\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7848\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Cute kids near snails\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The set up of the shop was typical -- a kitchen (comprised of a few burners and a grill) that spilled out from the ground floor of someone's home onto the street, a few small tables and chairs along the street, and an extra bonus here, a lady squeezing fresh sugarcane juice right across the street! It couldn't have been better.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/vietnam_saigon_oct09-561.jpg\" alt=\"vietnam saigon Making fresh sugarcane juice\" title=\"vietnam saigon Making fresh sugarcane juice\" width=\"333\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7850\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Making fresh sugarcane juice\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We over-ordered of course, and out came dishes of small snails, large snails, clams, crab, even \u003cstrong>balut\u003c/strong>! \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For those unfamiliar, balut is a fertilized duck egg with a nearly-developed embryo inside that is boiled and then eaten out of the shell with a spoon. You heard right, a partial chick (please don't hate me). Since it was my first time trying this delicacy, I was advised not to look directly at it (kind of like that adage of not staring into the sun). The texture can be challenging if you're squeamish, and you can't help but look too closely, but the flavor was good. As expected, a combo of an egg and chicken, but all in one bite. A little dish of salt and pepper mixed with lemon juice added a nice kick of flavor, and of course, some herbage, coriander leaves.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That was probably the most exotic thing I tried on this trip, but the snails! Those may have been the best. Boiled first to cook through, then finished off in a wok, seared until some magical sauce evaporated and coated the shells. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/vietnam_saigon_oct09-587.jpg\" alt=\"vietnam saigon eating snails\" title=\"vietnam saigon eating snails\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7852\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Bliss\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The snails themselves were meaty and succulent, but the sauce, now that was truly extraordinary: a little creamy and cheesy, with a touch of sweetness, and a tinge of heat that played on our lips. It was caramelized into almost a crust on the shells. We unabashedly licked our fingers clean while still reaching for more. The flavor teased us as we chased after it, wanting to savor it, have more of it, freakin' bathe in it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/vietnam_saigon_oct09-465.jpg\" alt=\"vietnam saigon Hu Tiu Nam Vang, Tin Phuc\" title=\"vietnam saigon Hu Tiu Nam Vang, Tin Phuc\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7845\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Hu Tiu Nam Vang, Tin Phuc\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Place: Tin Phuc\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Dish:\u003c/strong> Hu Tiu Nam Vang (pronounced \"hoo tee-yoo nam vang\")\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Translation:\u003c/strong> Pork and Crab Noodle Soup\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Address:\u003c/strong> 16 Duong Dinh Nghe (cross street: Cu Xa Binh Thoi) - P.8, Q.11\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/vietnam_saigon_oct09-472.jpg\" alt=\"vietnam saigon Tin Phuc\" title=\"vietnam saigon Tin Phuc\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7847\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Tin Phuc\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tin Phuc is more of restaurant than actual street food, although, with its breezy architecture, you could technically drive right in if you really wanted to.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Regardless, it is delicious. Only one dish is served so you can't mess up the order: Hu Tiu Nam Vang. (In Cantonese we call it \"gum been fun.\") You can order it \"dry\" but the soup is so good that you probably won't want to.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Basically, hu tiu is a noodle soup similar to pho, but more seafood-based and with a light broth. Prior to this meal, I had never tasted it before, so I did some research on its origins. Vietnamese culinary expert \u003cstrong>Andrea Nguyen\u003c/strong> had much light to shed regarding this \u003ca href=\"http://vietworldkitchen.typepad.com/blog/2007/11/hu-tieu-nam-van.html\">addictive dish.\u003c/a> According to Andrea, \"At its core, hu tieu signals a Chinese-Southeast Asian style noodle soup made with a pork bone broth and no fish sauce.\" But, there are many riffs on it, one of which is the Nam Vang style, \"Nam Vang\" being the Vietnamese word for Phnom Penh (the capital of Cambodia). Thus, Vietnam's proximity to Cambodia resulted in this Cambodian-Chinese concoction.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/vietnam_saigon_oct09-468.jpg\" alt=\"vietnam saigon herbs\" title=\"vietnam saigon herbs\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7846\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Herbage\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tin Phuc's rendition of Hu Tiu Nam Vang is divine. The soup is phenomenal, sweet and rich, made from the stock of pork bones and crab shells. The angel-hair-thin opaque rice noodles have just the right amount of springy chew to them. And the toppings are generous portions of pork meat, tendon and heart, crab meat, and shrimp. Tear up handfuls of leafy Romaine, Chinese celery and flat Chinese chives, add some crunchy bean sprouts, a touch of chili pepper, and you good to go. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The result is soul-satisfying. Warm, comforting, full of umami, fresh and healthy feeling. I bet a bowl of this could cure a cold like nobody's business.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The best part? Lunch for 5 people here rolled up to a mere $9.75 USD.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/vietnam_saigon_oct09-598.jpg\" alt=\"vietnam saigon Street Scene\" title=\"vietnam saigon Street Scene\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7853\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Street Scene\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Back in September, Thy Tran wrote a great article on \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2009/09/01/beyond-festivals-street-food-actually-on-streets-and-sidewalks/\">Street Food Beyond Festivals\u003c/a> in which she compares the young street food culture in the U.S. to other places where it has been \"long embedded into their daily rhythms.\" Witnessing the street food culture of Saigon brought that alive for me. Daily rhythm is right, it seemed like everyone eats out all the time whether it’s having your morning coffee delivered to your front door from the coffee lady down the street, getting some fruit to-go from the number of fruit vendors rolling around, or popping a squat on a little plastic chair at a tea-party-sized table for dinner. Sure, the convenience, affordability, and quality of product are all great. But it is the daily human interaction, the chit chat, the sense of community that comes with it, that makes this daily rhythm so soothing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Nen Nha Dat (for Cha Gue)\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n91 Ha Ton Quyen (cross street: Tan Thanh) - P.15, Q.5\u003cbr>\nHo Chi Minh City, Vietnam\u003cbr>\nPhone: 0903380574 \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Oc Huong Pho Mai (for Snails)\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n37/3 Nguyen Cauh Chan - Q.1\u003cbr>\nHo Chi Minh City, Vietnam\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "SF Hearts the Carts - and the Carts Heart Back",
"title": "SF Hearts the Carts - and the Carts Heart Back",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/10/the-panel.jpg\" alt=\"SF Hearts the Cart panel\" title=\"SF Hearts the Cart panel\" width=\"500\" height=\"294\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7781\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Commonwealth Club's The Street Food Movement: SF Hearts the Cart panel\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the \u003ca href=\"http://tickets.commonwealthclub.org/\">Commonwealth Club's\u003c/a> Thursday night event, \"The Street Food Movement: SF Hearts the Cart,\" a visibly upset Steven Gbdula (\u003ca href=\"http://gobbagobbahey.com/\">Gobba Gobba Hey\u003c/a>) explained that Murat Celebi-Ariner of popular cart \u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/amuseBoucheSF\">Amuse Bouche\u003c/a> is being deported even though he's married to a U.S. citizen. ICE's holding him and he's not getting an appeal. At the post-event food tasting at 111 Minna St., Steven and Natalie (\u003ca href=\"http://bikebasketpies.com/\">Bike Basket Pies\u003c/a>) sported t-shirts that read \"Free Murat\" and other vendors had small signs expressing frustration with the situation. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/10/bikepies.jpg\" alt=\"bikepies\" title=\"bikepies\" width=\"300\" height=\"400\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7774\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Natalie of \u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/bikebasketpies\">@bikebasketpies\u003c/a>\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The reaction to Murat's looming deportation highlights one of the major themes of the panel discussion: the importance of community and supporting one another. Murat actually encouraged Steven to start, tweeted about his delicious gobs (an East Coast treat reminiscent of the whoopie pie), and supported other vendors whole-heartedly. The affable Frenchman was a big presence at the 24th St. BART station and will be missed greatly by his customers, but also by the other vendors who have come to see him not just as a fellow business or even a competitor, but as a friend. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The panel discussion was moderated by Tamara Palmer, editor of \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.sfweekly.com/foodie/pavement_cuisine/\">Pavement Cuisine\u003c/a> for SF Weekly and included Anthony Myint of \u003ca href=\"http://blog.missionstreetfood.com/\">Mission Street Food\u003c/a>, Brian (aka the \u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/MagicCurryKart\">Magic Curry Cart\u003c/a>), Steven Gbdula of \u003ca href=\"http://gobbagobbahey.com/\">Gobba Gobba Hey\u003c/a> and Charles Phan from \u003ca href=\"http://www.slanteddoor.com/\">The Slanted Door\u003c/a> (and Out The Door, Heaven's Dog, Academy Cafe). Questions were largely split into three categories: inspiration for starting the cart, challenges the vendors have faced, and what the future looks like for them. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Regarding getting started, Anthony Myint responded first (Tamara calling him the godfather of the street scene as he started in a taco truck and has since \"graduated\" to cooking meals twice a week in an actual kitchen). Anthony mentioned he was simply looking for something to do in his free time, and eventually he grew out of the taco truck. It was more about logistics than anything. Brian, the Magic Curry Man, originally opened to make a little extra cash and do something besides his day job as a psychotherapist. He'd traveled a great deal in Asia and noticed San Francisco was really missing street food, so he modeled his cart after one he'd seen in Bangkok. He practiced cooking for friends and scored an old cart from \u003ca href=\"http://www.burningman.com/\">Burning Man\u003c/a>. Once people started tweeting about it, the business grew exponentially. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/10/steven500.jpg\" alt=\"Brian Magic Curry Cart and Steven Gbdula - GobbaGobbaHey\" title=\"Brian Magic Curry Cart and Steven Gbdula - GobbaGobbaHey\" width=\"500\" height=\"424\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7780\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Brian of \u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/Magiccurrycart\">@Magiccurrycart\u003c/a> and Steven Gbdula of \u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/GobbaGobbaHey\">@GobbaGobbaHey\u003c/a>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Steven moved to San Francisco exactly one year ago Friday and like Brian, noticed a lack of street food in the city, but more specifically, a lack of the beloved gob. He figured, \"I can make these, but it's the Bay Area so I'm going to have to raise my game a little.\" And that he did, with gobs selling out frequently and admirers obsessively following his tweets. On the flip side, Charles Phan discussed how he originally wanted to open a street cart, but was so overwhelmed by the permit requirements and code restrictions that he was driven to open a \"brick and mortar.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/10/charlesphan.jpg\" alt=\"charles phan chef owner slanted door and out the door\" title=\"charles phan chef owner slanted door and out the door\" width=\"300\" height=\"400\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7775\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Charles Phan\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Most vendors seemed to have a good sense of humor about the permit requirements and legal restrictions. Steven mentioned that he started with more of a tray than a cart and just walked around the Mission selling his gobs. When he'd see a police presence, he'd duck into doorways whistling inconspicuously. Since then, he's gone \"more legitimate,\" baking in a commercial kitchen and wrapping and sealing his products before they hit the street. Brian mentioned that generally the cops are more concerned with noise or folks lined up blocking the streets. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Neither noise nor street obstructions were a factor at the post-panel street food gathering. The vendors set up in the modern art gallery with people packed in, trying to get their favorite street morsel before the next guy in line. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/10/inside111minna.jpg\" alt=\"inside 111 minna\" title=\"inside 111 minna\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7778\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Post-event food tasting at 111 Minna\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The vendors were borrowing kitchen tools and towels from one another and cracking jokes across the room. They all know one another and genuinely seem to care about their mutual success. One of Smitten Ice Cream's recent tweets reads: \u003cem>@@BikeBasketPies and @SmittenIceCream are teaming up today -- treat yourself to \"a-la-mode\" at Secret Alley (Capp btw 17th & 18th) 2 - 5 PM.\u003c/em>. Robyn Sue, of newly formed \u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/SmittenIceCream\">Smitten Ice Cream\u003c/a> explains how important collaboration is and how supportive and helpful the community has been in showing her the ropes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/10/smittenicecream.jpg\" alt=\"smittenicecream\" title=\"smittenicecream\" width=\"300\" height=\"379\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7779\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Robyn Sue and \"Kelvin\" of \u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/SmittenIceCream\">@SmittenIceCream\u003c/a>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My favorite sample was Robyn's ice cream. The salted caramel was churned out by her trusty (self-designed) machine, \"Kelvin.\" Robyn spent a year constructing Kelvin, who debuted on the streets of San Francisco about a month ago. The \u003ca href=\"http://baconpotatochips.com/\">bacon potato chips\u003c/a> always make me happy, and the pumpkin pie with chocolate chips at \u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/bikebasketpies\">Bike Basket Pies\u003c/a> made me ponder switching up our family's Thanksgiving pie this year. The ginger cookies from \u003ca href=\"http://www.sweetconstructions.com/\">Sweet Constructions\u003c/a> were crispy and delightful--and of course, that \u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/cremebruleecart\">crème brulee\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/10/baconpotatochip.jpg\" alt=\"baconpotatochip\" title=\"baconpotatochip\" width=\"300\" height=\"400\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7773\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/BaconPotatoChip\">@BaconPotatoChip\u003c/a>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/10/cremebruleman.jpg\" alt=\"creme brulee man\" title=\"creme brulee man\" width=\"350\" height=\"467\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7777\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/cremebruleecart\"> @cremebruleecart\u003c/a>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/10/cookies.jpg\" alt=\"sfcookies\" title=\"sfcookies\" width=\"500\" height=\"301\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7776\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/sfcookies\">@sfcookies\u003c/a>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So while the presence of carts may wane a bit in the coming rainy months, and while some vendors may eventually tweak their business model to become more \"legit,\" one thing will remain the same: these folks are taking something they genuinely love doing and trying to make a go of it--together. But everything good must evolve, and when asked about their future plans, it was clear this would certainly be the case.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Brian mentioned that Friday is the last day at his \"real job\" as he's getting laid off. He said he'll definitely be focusing on the cart more and has some ideas for expansion. While making the curry to order in front of folks is undeniably part of the charm, he is thinking about how to be more legitimate (with permits and the like). He's also interested in focusing on nutrition for lower income families. Anthony wants to open a charitable business or a chain based on the \u003ca href=\"http://blog.missionstreetfood.com/\">Mission Street Food\u003c/a> model. Steven has some plans regarding new products, selling gobs on the popular website Foodzie and possibly moving into a retail space. And Charles Phan smiled, stating \"I still want to build a cart. I salvaged a 60 foot trailer home and it's sitting in my yard...waiting.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Find contributing Food Vendors via Twitter:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/Magiccurrycart\">@Magiccurrycart\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/GobbaGobbaHey\">@GobbaGobbaHey\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/SmittenIceCream\">@SmittenIceCream\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/bikebasketpies\">@bikebasketpies\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/BaconPotatoChip\">@BaconPotatoChip\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/soulcocina\">@soulcocina\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/sfcookies\">@sfcookies\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/cremebruleecart\"> @cremebruleecart\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/Missionstfood\">@Missionstfood\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "At the Commonwealth Club's Thursday night event, \"The Street Food Movement: SF Hearts the Cart,\" a visibly upset Steven Gbdula (Gobba Gobba Hey) explained that Murat Celebi-Ariner of popular cart Amuse Bouche is being deported even though he's married to a U.S. citizen. ICE's holding him and he's not getting an appeal. At the post-event food tasting at 111 Minna St., Steven and Natalie (Bike Basket Pies) sported t-shirts that read \"Free Murat\" and other vendors had small signs expressing frustration with the situation. \r\n",
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"description": "At the Commonwealth Club's Thursday night event, "The Street Food Movement: SF Hearts the Cart," a visibly upset Steven Gbdula (Gobba Gobba Hey) explained that Murat Celebi-Ariner of popular cart Amuse Bouche is being deported even though he's married to a U.S. citizen. ICE's holding him and he's not getting an appeal. At the post-event food tasting at 111 Minna St., Steven and Natalie (Bike Basket Pies) sported t-shirts that read "Free Murat" and other vendors had small signs expressing frustration with the situation. \r\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/10/the-panel.jpg\" alt=\"SF Hearts the Cart panel\" title=\"SF Hearts the Cart panel\" width=\"500\" height=\"294\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7781\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Commonwealth Club's The Street Food Movement: SF Hearts the Cart panel\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the \u003ca href=\"http://tickets.commonwealthclub.org/\">Commonwealth Club's\u003c/a> Thursday night event, \"The Street Food Movement: SF Hearts the Cart,\" a visibly upset Steven Gbdula (\u003ca href=\"http://gobbagobbahey.com/\">Gobba Gobba Hey\u003c/a>) explained that Murat Celebi-Ariner of popular cart \u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/amuseBoucheSF\">Amuse Bouche\u003c/a> is being deported even though he's married to a U.S. citizen. ICE's holding him and he's not getting an appeal. At the post-event food tasting at 111 Minna St., Steven and Natalie (\u003ca href=\"http://bikebasketpies.com/\">Bike Basket Pies\u003c/a>) sported t-shirts that read \"Free Murat\" and other vendors had small signs expressing frustration with the situation. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/10/bikepies.jpg\" alt=\"bikepies\" title=\"bikepies\" width=\"300\" height=\"400\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7774\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Natalie of \u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/bikebasketpies\">@bikebasketpies\u003c/a>\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The reaction to Murat's looming deportation highlights one of the major themes of the panel discussion: the importance of community and supporting one another. Murat actually encouraged Steven to start, tweeted about his delicious gobs (an East Coast treat reminiscent of the whoopie pie), and supported other vendors whole-heartedly. The affable Frenchman was a big presence at the 24th St. BART station and will be missed greatly by his customers, but also by the other vendors who have come to see him not just as a fellow business or even a competitor, but as a friend. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The panel discussion was moderated by Tamara Palmer, editor of \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.sfweekly.com/foodie/pavement_cuisine/\">Pavement Cuisine\u003c/a> for SF Weekly and included Anthony Myint of \u003ca href=\"http://blog.missionstreetfood.com/\">Mission Street Food\u003c/a>, Brian (aka the \u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/MagicCurryKart\">Magic Curry Cart\u003c/a>), Steven Gbdula of \u003ca href=\"http://gobbagobbahey.com/\">Gobba Gobba Hey\u003c/a> and Charles Phan from \u003ca href=\"http://www.slanteddoor.com/\">The Slanted Door\u003c/a> (and Out The Door, Heaven's Dog, Academy Cafe). Questions were largely split into three categories: inspiration for starting the cart, challenges the vendors have faced, and what the future looks like for them. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Regarding getting started, Anthony Myint responded first (Tamara calling him the godfather of the street scene as he started in a taco truck and has since \"graduated\" to cooking meals twice a week in an actual kitchen). Anthony mentioned he was simply looking for something to do in his free time, and eventually he grew out of the taco truck. It was more about logistics than anything. Brian, the Magic Curry Man, originally opened to make a little extra cash and do something besides his day job as a psychotherapist. He'd traveled a great deal in Asia and noticed San Francisco was really missing street food, so he modeled his cart after one he'd seen in Bangkok. He practiced cooking for friends and scored an old cart from \u003ca href=\"http://www.burningman.com/\">Burning Man\u003c/a>. Once people started tweeting about it, the business grew exponentially. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/10/steven500.jpg\" alt=\"Brian Magic Curry Cart and Steven Gbdula - GobbaGobbaHey\" title=\"Brian Magic Curry Cart and Steven Gbdula - GobbaGobbaHey\" width=\"500\" height=\"424\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7780\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Brian of \u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/Magiccurrycart\">@Magiccurrycart\u003c/a> and Steven Gbdula of \u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/GobbaGobbaHey\">@GobbaGobbaHey\u003c/a>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Steven moved to San Francisco exactly one year ago Friday and like Brian, noticed a lack of street food in the city, but more specifically, a lack of the beloved gob. He figured, \"I can make these, but it's the Bay Area so I'm going to have to raise my game a little.\" And that he did, with gobs selling out frequently and admirers obsessively following his tweets. On the flip side, Charles Phan discussed how he originally wanted to open a street cart, but was so overwhelmed by the permit requirements and code restrictions that he was driven to open a \"brick and mortar.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/10/charlesphan.jpg\" alt=\"charles phan chef owner slanted door and out the door\" title=\"charles phan chef owner slanted door and out the door\" width=\"300\" height=\"400\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7775\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Charles Phan\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Most vendors seemed to have a good sense of humor about the permit requirements and legal restrictions. Steven mentioned that he started with more of a tray than a cart and just walked around the Mission selling his gobs. When he'd see a police presence, he'd duck into doorways whistling inconspicuously. Since then, he's gone \"more legitimate,\" baking in a commercial kitchen and wrapping and sealing his products before they hit the street. Brian mentioned that generally the cops are more concerned with noise or folks lined up blocking the streets. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Neither noise nor street obstructions were a factor at the post-panel street food gathering. The vendors set up in the modern art gallery with people packed in, trying to get their favorite street morsel before the next guy in line. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/10/inside111minna.jpg\" alt=\"inside 111 minna\" title=\"inside 111 minna\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7778\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Post-event food tasting at 111 Minna\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The vendors were borrowing kitchen tools and towels from one another and cracking jokes across the room. They all know one another and genuinely seem to care about their mutual success. One of Smitten Ice Cream's recent tweets reads: \u003cem>@@BikeBasketPies and @SmittenIceCream are teaming up today -- treat yourself to \"a-la-mode\" at Secret Alley (Capp btw 17th & 18th) 2 - 5 PM.\u003c/em>. Robyn Sue, of newly formed \u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/SmittenIceCream\">Smitten Ice Cream\u003c/a> explains how important collaboration is and how supportive and helpful the community has been in showing her the ropes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/10/smittenicecream.jpg\" alt=\"smittenicecream\" title=\"smittenicecream\" width=\"300\" height=\"379\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7779\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Robyn Sue and \"Kelvin\" of \u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/SmittenIceCream\">@SmittenIceCream\u003c/a>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My favorite sample was Robyn's ice cream. The salted caramel was churned out by her trusty (self-designed) machine, \"Kelvin.\" Robyn spent a year constructing Kelvin, who debuted on the streets of San Francisco about a month ago. The \u003ca href=\"http://baconpotatochips.com/\">bacon potato chips\u003c/a> always make me happy, and the pumpkin pie with chocolate chips at \u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/bikebasketpies\">Bike Basket Pies\u003c/a> made me ponder switching up our family's Thanksgiving pie this year. The ginger cookies from \u003ca href=\"http://www.sweetconstructions.com/\">Sweet Constructions\u003c/a> were crispy and delightful--and of course, that \u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/cremebruleecart\">crème brulee\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/10/baconpotatochip.jpg\" alt=\"baconpotatochip\" title=\"baconpotatochip\" width=\"300\" height=\"400\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7773\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/BaconPotatoChip\">@BaconPotatoChip\u003c/a>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/10/cremebruleman.jpg\" alt=\"creme brulee man\" title=\"creme brulee man\" width=\"350\" height=\"467\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7777\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/cremebruleecart\"> @cremebruleecart\u003c/a>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/10/cookies.jpg\" alt=\"sfcookies\" title=\"sfcookies\" width=\"500\" height=\"301\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7776\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/sfcookies\">@sfcookies\u003c/a>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So while the presence of carts may wane a bit in the coming rainy months, and while some vendors may eventually tweak their business model to become more \"legit,\" one thing will remain the same: these folks are taking something they genuinely love doing and trying to make a go of it--together. But everything good must evolve, and when asked about their future plans, it was clear this would certainly be the case.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Brian mentioned that Friday is the last day at his \"real job\" as he's getting laid off. He said he'll definitely be focusing on the cart more and has some ideas for expansion. While making the curry to order in front of folks is undeniably part of the charm, he is thinking about how to be more legitimate (with permits and the like). He's also interested in focusing on nutrition for lower income families. Anthony wants to open a charitable business or a chain based on the \u003ca href=\"http://blog.missionstreetfood.com/\">Mission Street Food\u003c/a> model. Steven has some plans regarding new products, selling gobs on the popular website Foodzie and possibly moving into a retail space. And Charles Phan smiled, stating \"I still want to build a cart. I salvaged a 60 foot trailer home and it's sitting in my yard...waiting.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Find contributing Food Vendors via Twitter:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/Magiccurrycart\">@Magiccurrycart\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/GobbaGobbaHey\">@GobbaGobbaHey\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/SmittenIceCream\">@SmittenIceCream\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/bikebasketpies\">@bikebasketpies\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/BaconPotatoChip\">@BaconPotatoChip\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/soulcocina\">@soulcocina\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/sfcookies\">@sfcookies\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/cremebruleecart\"> @cremebruleecart\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/Missionstfood\">@Missionstfood\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Creperie Saint Germain",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/10/mediterranean500.jpg\" alt=\"mediterranean crepe\" title=\"mediterranean crepe\" width=\"500\" height=\"334\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7622\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Mediterranean Crepe (Feta Cheese, Olives, Avocado, Spinach, Green Onions)\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For all its charms, San Francisco falls sadly short when it comes to late-night dining. Ten o'clock may be normal in New York City and a little on the early side in Barcelona, but here, you'll be lucky to find a burrito, much less a plate of pasta and an arugula salad. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>OK, maybe we're exaggerating a little, but it's definitely true that noshing options drop dramatically after midnight, unless you're looking for a Mission Street bacon dog or fried eggs and French fries at Sparky's or the Bagdad Cafe. And if you're out clubbing, bar-hopping or catching a show South of Market, the chowing opportunities on those wide windswept streets are few and far between. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/10/nutelle-strawberry-banana500.jpg\" alt=\"nutella strawberry banana with whipped cream crepe\" title=\"nutella strawberry banana with whipped cream crepe\" width=\"500\" height=\"334\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7620\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Nutella, Strawberries, Bananas with Whipped Cream Crepe\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Enter \u003ca href=\"http://creperiesaintgermain.com\">Creperie Saint Germain\u003c/a>. From this cute, custom-built wagon parked at the sidewalk edge of a private parking lot on Howard Street come sweet and savory crepes made to order. The daytime business is good, filling up the bellies of nearby office workers and loft dwellers with chicken-feta crepes at lunchtime or chocolate-banana ones later in the afternoon. But the real scene at Saint Germain comes late at night, when the brightly lit little stand beckons hungry clubbers from blocks away. Open from 7am-7pm Monday to Wednesday, the cart often serves until 3am on Thursday, Friday, and Saturday nights. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A little nightlife buzz is already building up around the place, since there's nothing like topping off a happy buzz with a warm crepe dripping with Nutella--or laying down some beer ballast with smoked salmon and cream cheese, ratatouille and spinach, or ham and pineapple all stuffed into a buckwheat wrapper. Along with the printed menu, there are usually a couple of daily specials, like a recent sweet crepe layering fig jam, almond butter, and sliced banana into deluxe spin on the PB&J. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/10/apple-cinnamon-vanilla500.jpg\" alt=\"Apple cinnamon brown sugar vanilla ice cream crepe\" title=\"Apple cinnamon brown sugar vanilla ice cream crepe\" width=\"500\" height=\"334\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7 621\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Fresh Apple, Cinnamon, Brown Sugar with Vanilla Ice Cream Crepe\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Why crepes? Although crepe stands are ubiquitous in Paris, San Francisco's burgeoning street-food scene was surprisingly bereft, given how many local chalkboard cafes treat them as a staple. Owners Ahmet Cagin and Zeynep Aynaci, friends from Istabul who jettisoned careers in finance to become micro-restauranteurs, felt that crepes would be easy to make on the spot, reasonably healthy and endlessly flexible. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/10/meet-lovers-maya500.jpg\" alt=\"meet lovers maya crepe\" title=\"meet lovers maya crepe\" width=\"500\" height=\"334\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7623\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Meet Lover's Maya Crepe\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Unlike other Tweeting food carts, \u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/creperieSG\">Creperie Saint Germain\u003c/a> doesn't roam around. By parking in a parking lot, rather than on a street corner, the owners avoided the high sidewalk-permit fees charged by the city for legal food carts. Instead, they negotiate a monthly rent with the owners of the parking lot, pretty much as if their tidy blue-and-white wagon was a stretch Hummer in need of a double-wide space with a view. The only drawback right now is a complete lack of seating, making eating a crepe here strictly a stand-up affair. But isn't clutching a crepe in one hand and a napkin in the other a small price to pay for curbside Nutella at 3am?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://creperiesaintgermain.com/\">Creperie Saint Germain\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n546 Howard St at 2nd Street\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94105\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=546+Howard+Street+San+Francisco+CA+94105&ie=UTF8&t=h&hq=&hnear=546+Howard+St,+San+Francisco,+California+94105&ll=37.788505,-122.397351&spn=0.011345,0.013905&z=16&iwloc=r0\">Map\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n(415) 706-9733\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/creperieSG\">@creperieSG\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "For all its charms, San Francisco falls sadly short when it comes to late-night dining. Ten o'clock may be normal in New York City and a little on the early side in Barcelona, but here, you'll be lucky to find a burrito, much less a plate of pasta and an arugula salad. Enter Creperie Saint Germain, Nutella-drenched savior to the SoMa clubbing set. ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/10/mediterranean500.jpg\" alt=\"mediterranean crepe\" title=\"mediterranean crepe\" width=\"500\" height=\"334\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7622\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Mediterranean Crepe (Feta Cheese, Olives, Avocado, Spinach, Green Onions)\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For all its charms, San Francisco falls sadly short when it comes to late-night dining. Ten o'clock may be normal in New York City and a little on the early side in Barcelona, but here, you'll be lucky to find a burrito, much less a plate of pasta and an arugula salad. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>OK, maybe we're exaggerating a little, but it's definitely true that noshing options drop dramatically after midnight, unless you're looking for a Mission Street bacon dog or fried eggs and French fries at Sparky's or the Bagdad Cafe. And if you're out clubbing, bar-hopping or catching a show South of Market, the chowing opportunities on those wide windswept streets are few and far between. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/10/nutelle-strawberry-banana500.jpg\" alt=\"nutella strawberry banana with whipped cream crepe\" title=\"nutella strawberry banana with whipped cream crepe\" width=\"500\" height=\"334\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7620\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Nutella, Strawberries, Bananas with Whipped Cream Crepe\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Enter \u003ca href=\"http://creperiesaintgermain.com\">Creperie Saint Germain\u003c/a>. From this cute, custom-built wagon parked at the sidewalk edge of a private parking lot on Howard Street come sweet and savory crepes made to order. The daytime business is good, filling up the bellies of nearby office workers and loft dwellers with chicken-feta crepes at lunchtime or chocolate-banana ones later in the afternoon. But the real scene at Saint Germain comes late at night, when the brightly lit little stand beckons hungry clubbers from blocks away. Open from 7am-7pm Monday to Wednesday, the cart often serves until 3am on Thursday, Friday, and Saturday nights. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A little nightlife buzz is already building up around the place, since there's nothing like topping off a happy buzz with a warm crepe dripping with Nutella--or laying down some beer ballast with smoked salmon and cream cheese, ratatouille and spinach, or ham and pineapple all stuffed into a buckwheat wrapper. Along with the printed menu, there are usually a couple of daily specials, like a recent sweet crepe layering fig jam, almond butter, and sliced banana into deluxe spin on the PB&J. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/10/apple-cinnamon-vanilla500.jpg\" alt=\"Apple cinnamon brown sugar vanilla ice cream crepe\" title=\"Apple cinnamon brown sugar vanilla ice cream crepe\" width=\"500\" height=\"334\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7 621\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Fresh Apple, Cinnamon, Brown Sugar with Vanilla Ice Cream Crepe\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Why crepes? Although crepe stands are ubiquitous in Paris, San Francisco's burgeoning street-food scene was surprisingly bereft, given how many local chalkboard cafes treat them as a staple. Owners Ahmet Cagin and Zeynep Aynaci, friends from Istabul who jettisoned careers in finance to become micro-restauranteurs, felt that crepes would be easy to make on the spot, reasonably healthy and endlessly flexible. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/10/meet-lovers-maya500.jpg\" alt=\"meet lovers maya crepe\" title=\"meet lovers maya crepe\" width=\"500\" height=\"334\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7623\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Meet Lover's Maya Crepe\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Unlike other Tweeting food carts, \u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/creperieSG\">Creperie Saint Germain\u003c/a> doesn't roam around. By parking in a parking lot, rather than on a street corner, the owners avoided the high sidewalk-permit fees charged by the city for legal food carts. Instead, they negotiate a monthly rent with the owners of the parking lot, pretty much as if their tidy blue-and-white wagon was a stretch Hummer in need of a double-wide space with a view. The only drawback right now is a complete lack of seating, making eating a crepe here strictly a stand-up affair. But isn't clutching a crepe in one hand and a napkin in the other a small price to pay for curbside Nutella at 3am?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://creperiesaintgermain.com/\">Creperie Saint Germain\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n546 Howard St at 2nd Street\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94105\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=546+Howard+Street+San+Francisco+CA+94105&ie=UTF8&t=h&hq=&hnear=546+Howard+St,+San+Francisco,+California+94105&ll=37.788505,-122.397351&spn=0.011345,0.013905&z=16&iwloc=r0\">Map\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n(415) 706-9733\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/creperieSG\">@creperieSG\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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