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"disqusTitle": "Merchant Roots’ Daytime Grocer and Imaginative Nighttime Tasting Menu Table Arrives on Fillmore",
"title": "Merchant Roots’ Daytime Grocer and Imaginative Nighttime Tasting Menu Table Arrives on Fillmore",
"headTitle": "New Restaurants 2018 | Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cem>With all kinds of homemade foods from preserves to pastas to focaccia offered in the daytime and a Table full of constantly changing creative themes in the evening, Merchant Roots is a tiny space with grand ideas, now open in the Fillmore.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Think of that outrageously talented friend or colleague or family member in your life who is truly a Renaissance man or woman…you know, the one who is just so great at so many things from tennis to yoga to coding to playing the cello, and is a complete fountain of knowledge for everything from fixing dishwashers to knowing which Goethe poem is the best? Well, as far as restaurant-market-café-larders go in San Francisco, the closest equivalent is Merchant Roots, an eminently charming addition to the \u003ca href=\"http://statebirdsf.com/home/\">State Bird Provisions\u003c/a> side of Fillmore on the thoroughfare’s rapidly growing dining stretch south of Geary.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128480\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128480\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6259-new.jpg\" alt=\"Entrance to Merchant Roots with Business Hours signage.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6259-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6259-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6259-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6259-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6259-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6259-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6259-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6259-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6259-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6259-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6259-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Entrance to Merchant Roots with Business Hours signage. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>It’s impossible to give a blanket label for this concept, long in the making by business and life partners Ryan Shelton and Madison Michael. There really is nothing quite like it in the Bay Area. You can come for a homemade scone and a cup of coffee at 9am. You can feel free to drop by for a plate of pasta (yes, homemade) and a glass of Prosecco to treat yourself to a late afternoon lunch feast. You can pick up a kale and chicken salad or a sandwich (on homemade focaccia, obviously) to-go en route to catching the 38R on Geary. You can buy dry or wet pasta for dinner at home and pair it with a bottle from the under-the-radar wine boutique that is tucked in the far corner of the tiny Merchant Roots space. Then there are homemade soaps, sipping chocolate mixes, homemade jams, freshly baked quiche slices…we could go on. Then the next stage of the project, \u003cstrong>The Table at Merchant Roots\u003c/strong>, comes in a few weeks as the next marquee tasting menu for a rapidly growing category in San Francisco, except this one might be considered the most whimsical — and intimate — of the elite bunch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128492\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128492\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6624-new.jpg\" alt=\"Executive Chef Ryan Shelton and Sous Chef Adriana Fleming behind the front counter and display case at Merchant Roots.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6624-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6624-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6624-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6624-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6624-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6624-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6624-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6624-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6624-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6624-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6624-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Executive Chef Ryan Shelton and Sous Chef Adriana Fleming behind the front counter and display case at Merchant Roots. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>All of this resides in a 1000–square foot space that somehow manages to feel spacious and not seem cluttered whatsoever. Yes, it’s all pretty overwhelming but also so relaxed and calm when you step inside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The closest comparison for Merchant Roots is \u003ca href=\"https://www.brooklynfare.com/pages/chefs-table\">Chef’s Table at Brooklyn Fare\u003c/a> in New York, a casual shop in the daytime and ambitious tasting menu in the nighttime hybrid that has received global accolades for its inventiveness. Healdsburg has \u003ca href=\"https://healdsburgshed.com/\">SHED\u003c/a> but that so-called “grange” is about 10 times bigger than Merchant Roots and has a twee-bucolic lifestyle theme that strikes many as precious with its fermentation lab, quinoa salads and rather pricey kitchen tools. In the end, they’re vaguely related but really hard to directly compare.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The first thing every guest notices while walking by Merchant Roots is the window’s eye-catching hand-painted sign by Bay Area artist \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/coolhandken/\">Ken Davis\u003c/a> that sets the tone for the shop’s contemporary interpretation of retro design inside. It could easily be a sign for a blacksmith shop in the Wild West, but also seems hip. It’s timeless and elegant cursive with artistic flair.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128461\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128461\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6475-new.jpg\" alt=\"Sous Chef David Hamilton-Kidd making fresh pasta at Merchant Roots\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2880\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6475-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6475-new-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6475-new-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6475-new-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6475-new-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6475-new-1180x1770.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6475-new-960x1440.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6475-new-240x360.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6475-new-375x563.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6475-new-520x780.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sous Chef David Hamilton-Kidd making fresh pasta at Merchant Roots \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Then your eyes wander past the sign into the actual window where sous chef David Hamilton-Kidd will surely be rolling out pasta dough or cranking dough through the Torchio hand-press pasta maker. Fillmore pedestrians stop by, planned or unplanned nowadays, to watch the pasta making process like how people go window browsing around Union Square come Christmas time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://youtu.be/Izd0upkwbYY\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After stepping inside, chances are high that your attention will immediately drift towards the gorgeous pastry case, where immaculate chocolate-drizzled cannolis with Luxardo cherries dramatically peeking out of both ends and chocolate-dipped almond and anise biscotti ($3) beckon. You might be tempted by a muffin version of carrot cake with a ricotta cream cheese stuffing ($4) on one day and then a perfect slice of springtime via a strawberry and almond cream tart ($6) on the next visit. There usually will be doughnuts, perhaps a simple old-fashioned on one pedestal and a coconut-lime one made of mochi and milk dough, dusted with coconut flakes and lime zest ($3) on another.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128472\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128472\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6277-new.jpg\" alt=\"Chocolate-drizzled cannolis with Luxardo cherries dramatically peeking out of both ends.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6277-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6277-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6277-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6277-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6277-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6277-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6277-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6277-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6277-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6277-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6277-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chocolate-drizzled cannolis with Luxardo cherries dramatically peeking out of both ends. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128460\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128460\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6354-new.jpg\" alt=\"Strawberry and Almond Cream Tart.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6354-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6354-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6354-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6354-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6354-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6354-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6354-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6354-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6354-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6354-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6354-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Strawberry and Almond Cream Tart. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Upon press time, the bakers were still perfecting a gluten-free brownie recipe but you can count on that being a major hit when it premiers soon because this town sure loves it’s gluten-free treats that actually taste as good as their flour-filled equivalents.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128458\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128458\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6358-new.jpg\" alt=\"Showstopper chocolate chip cookies.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6358-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6358-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6358-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6358-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6358-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6358-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6358-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6358-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6358-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6358-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6358-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Showstopper chocolate chip cookies. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>However, the showstopper of the crew is the chocolate chip cookie ($3) that takes the chocolate part very seriously. It’s Michael’s recipe and she is adamant about making sure that the cookie is thick and soft, but not overly doughy or cumbersome, with a just a smidge of crunch at the outer edges. You’ll certainly taste the butter in the cookie — there’s a lot of it. But, what you probably didn’t guess is that it’s actually brown cultured butter mixed with equal parts muscovado sugar and regular sugar that give it a certain alluringly sharp sweetness.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The other major catch with the recipe is that Michael insists on the composition being more chocolate than cookie. That means there should be about 1.5 \u003ca href=\"https://www.guittard.com/\">Guittard\u003c/a> dark chocolate wafers per cookie but you’ll see some cookies where that figure looks more like 3. Nobody will complain, though. A finish of fleur de sel tops what is no doubt going to be a contender in the competitive “Best Chocolate Chip Cookie” debates of San Francisco. Cookie Monster strongly approves of this new entry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128441\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128441\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1056-new.jpg\" alt=\"Madison Michael's hands showcase the lunch menu at Merchant Roots\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1056-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1056-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1056-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1056-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1056-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1056-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1056-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1056-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1056-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1056-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1056-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Madison Michael's hands showcase the lunch menu at Merchant Roots \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There is nothing wrong with having muffins and cookies for lunch but you’ll need real lunch food at some point. The aforementioned housemade focaccia serves as a base for a pair of sandwiches (termed sando) ($9). One is a fascinating shaved pastrami-spiced smoked carrot number where the shaved vegetable looks like slices of lox and comes with \u003ca href=\"https://www.pointreyescheese.com/point-reyes-toma\">Pt. Reyes Toma cheese\u003c/a> and raisin jam. That same semi-hard cow’s milk cheese from Marin joins tangy \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mortadella\">mortadella\u003c/a> slices with arugula and Bavarian mustard in the other sandwich. Both are simple, precise and filling without being heavy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128454\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128454\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6676-new.jpg\" alt=\"Shaved pastrami-spiced smoked carrot sando that comes with Pt. Reyes Toma cheese and raisin jam.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6676-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6676-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6676-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6676-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6676-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6676-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6676-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6676-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6676-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6676-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6676-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Shaved pastrami-spiced smoked carrot sando that comes with Pt. Reyes Toma cheese and raisin jam. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Salads include ever-trendy kale leaves lightly coated with preserved lemon vinaigrette. Shelton finishes it with chicken and Parmigiano Reggiano for a satisfying but virtuous midday meal ($13; $10 without chicken). Moroccan chicken salad is a completely different styled offering ($14) and brings together cashews, crispy chickpeas, yogurt and citrus-mint vinaigrette. Venturing beyond salads and sandwiches, Shelton has a little fun with an “everything” spiced, cream cheese and smoked salmon-topped quiche with a potato crust ($12). It’s a bagel and latke-minded quiche. Somebody is having fun.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128452\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128452\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6787-new.jpg\" alt=\"Kale Salad with Parmigiano-Reggiano, Preserved Lemon Vinaigrette with Chicken\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6787-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6787-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6787-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6787-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6787-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6787-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6787-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6787-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6787-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6787-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6787-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Kale Salad with Parmigiano-Reggiano, Preserved Lemon Vinaigrette with Chicken \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128512\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128512\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6409-new.jpg\" alt=\"Smoked Salmon Quiche with Potato Crust, Spinach, Cream Cheese, 'Everything'\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6409-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6409-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6409-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6409-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6409-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6409-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6409-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6409-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6409-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6409-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6409-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Smoked Salmon Quiche with Potato Crust, Spinach, Cream Cheese, 'Everything' \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Salads are packaged to-go and all of them and the quiche are also available for enjoying plated in the café. Sandwiches, meanwhile, are all packaged to-go but can be consumed in Merchant Roots’ environs, along with being toasted on the spot. It’s a smart idea to have flexibility between takeout and eating-in because the lunch crowd can vary in a more residential-centered strip like this one. Future plans also call for a breakfast sandwich and a fried mortadella sando meant for dining in.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128509\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128509\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6297-new.jpg\" alt=\"Food To-Go includes salads, sandos, fresh pasta and sauce.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6297-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6297-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6297-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6297-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6297-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6297-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6297-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6297-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6297-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6297-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6297-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Food To-Go includes salads, sandos, fresh pasta and sauce. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>If you’re lingering for lunch, though, the must-try house meal really is the pasta, as the pasta making in the window might suggest. It’s Shelton’s specialty and one he has been fanatical about for life since being a boy growing up in San Jose as part of an Italian-American family. The enterprise could simply be Pasta Roots (or Semolina + Water?) for how important pasta is to the operation and how skilled Shelton is at it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>San Francisco is a pasta-crazed town as is proven by the dozens of Cal-Ital restaurants and even more informal red sauce and pizza joints. But, who makes their own dry and fresh pasta, pairs it with homemade sauces for enjoying in-house, and also sells both the sauces and pastas retail for you to make your own version at home? It’s definitely a tiny niche and this is a welcome addition to the diminutive club.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128468\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128468\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6621-new.jpg\" alt=\"Housemade tomato chele pasta.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6621-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6621-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6621-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6621-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6621-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6621-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6621-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6621-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6621-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6621-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6621-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Housemade tomato chele pasta. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>You’ll find a handful of pastas each day on the “daily pastas” menu for freshly prepared lunch dishes. The early must-order is tomato chele ($24), shaped similarly to an unstuffed small tortellini, with just the right amount of indentations and curves to hold its sauce teammate, a lobster reduction made from the juice of lobster heads where their tails have been used as meat. Shelton finishes the dish lobster roll-style with curls of celery and buttered brioche “croutons” evoking the roll’s usual hot dog bun. Of course, the brioche is homemade, being surplus brioche from doughnut dough.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128485\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128485\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6484-new.jpg\" alt=\"Tomato Chele pasta with lobster sauce, buttered brioche croutons, celery.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6484-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6484-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6484-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6484-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6484-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6484-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6484-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6484-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6484-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6484-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6484-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tomato Chele pasta with lobster sauce, buttered brioche croutons, celery. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Elsewhere in the pasta neighborhood, spaghettine made on the chitarra (like a small string harp) is joined by hen ragu ($11), while ricotta cavatelli are snap pea-glazed and accompanied by lemon mascarpone and smoked prosciutto ($13). Gargatti (think short caterpillars) comes with spring vegetables and a confit tomato crema “parma rossa” sauce ($13). Sometimes there is even chilled pasta like gnochetti with pesto, roasted peppers and red onion ($9).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Eventually, Shelton will be serving his own charcuterie made at his commissary in the Mission (seriously, how do they make pasta, charcuterie AND pastries with with just Shelton, Michael, Hamilton-Kidd and sous chef Adriana Fleming handling almost of the day-to-day duties for the whole operation?). For now, he’s offering a charcuterie platter sourced from elsewhere ($16) and a cheese plate ($17) with good friend Eric Miller of Mission Cheese helping as a fromage whisperer/advisor. A combination of the two ($20) is also offered. On the cheese side for the combo, Pt. Reyes Toma comes with the ever popular \u003ca href=\"https://www.cowgirlcreamery.com/library-of-cheese/mt-tam\">Cowgirl Creamery Mt. Tam\u003c/a> and gooey, funky \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Comt%C3%A9_cheese\">Comté\u003c/a> from France. The cured meats include pâté de campagne, speck from \u003ca href=\"http://www.redtablemeatco.com/\">Red Table\u003c/a> in Minneapolis and \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Soppressata\">sopressata\u003c/a> from \u003ca href=\"http://www.framani.com/\">Fra’Mani\u003c/a> in Berkeley.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128464\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128464\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6581-new.jpg\" alt=\"Cheese and Charcuterie Plate\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6581-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6581-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6581-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6581-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6581-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6581-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6581-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6581-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6581-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6581-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6581-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cheese and Charcuterie Plate \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>All of this is very daytime-oriented food that is friendly on the wallet and has a universal appeal for all ages. Who doesn’t love a good cookie or plate of pasta? We’re all getting tired of restaurants and food makers calling themselves “craft” and “artisanal” but that is what sets Merchant Roots’ grocer component apart. There is that special homemade touch that makes nothing taste watered down. These are indeed artisan products and dishes by experts who know their way around a great doughnut and kale salad…and also know how to put on a lavish, avant-garde tasting menu feast.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yes, that’s where \u003cstrong>The Table at Merchant Roots\u003c/strong> comes into the picture, arriving in the next few weeks (probably in June). The Table is literally a monkeypod table that is used for casual communal dining during the day and will be an intimate eight-seat, one sitting dinner setting three nights a week.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128671\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6237-new.jpg\" alt=\"The Table at Merchant Roots\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128671\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6237-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6237-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6237-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6237-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6237-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6237-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6237-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6237-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6237-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6237-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6237-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Table at Merchant Roots \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There really is nothing like the daytime grocer part but there isn’t anything quite like the atypical, constantly evolving and bizarre nature of what Shelton and Michael are pursuing with The Table. The experience will be centered on various themes that go well beyond a time and place like the tableaus for \u003ca href=\"https://www.nextrestaurant.com/\">Next\u003c/a> in Chicago. The opening theme for The Table is “Elements” and runs nine courses from a yuzu sorbet rock for “moon” to an outrageously creative cotton candy and mint chocolate ganache “comet.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To give you an idea of how advanced these dishes are, one “Elements” course called “Fire” centers on charcoal-grilled dry-aged New York steak, offset by charred pearl onions, crispy maitake mushrooms, leek ash and sunchoke “coal.” That’s not all. The classic steak or prime rib sauces of horseradish cream and red wine demi-glace find their way onto the log. Yes, the log. The serving platter is probably even more noteworthy than anything for this one dish. Shelton made 10 of the log platters by heavily charring the gnarly wood over several weeks to the point that they were fully pitch black and then stained them to keep the striking, even haunting appearance in place.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128471\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128471\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6707-new.jpg\" alt=\"One “Elements” course called “Fire” centers on charcoal-grilled dry-aged New York steak, offset by charred pearl onions, crispy maitake mushrooms, leek ash and sunchoke “coal.”\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6707-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6707-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6707-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6707-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6707-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6707-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6707-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6707-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6707-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6707-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6707-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">One “Elements” course called “Fire” centers on charcoal-grilled dry-aged New York steak, offset by charred pearl onions, crispy maitake mushrooms, leek ash and sunchoke “coal.” \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>That is just one course on one short-lived menu, but is a great reflection of the ambition on display and the ample creativity. The other bonus worth pointing out is that the opening $110 price tag per diner, while not at all cheap, is far below the total for its peers. The size and price of the menu will slightly fluctuate but several will stay in this format. Future menu themes include “Vanity Fair,” featuring everything ornate and gold-plated, and “Mermaids” with each dish literally made from sea ingredients all the way down to a bread that seems like a sourdough-fish sticks crossover. It’s made of kelp paste, haddock pureé and coconut flour (no yeast, just coconut flour paste that is inoculated over time with indigenous yeast!).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Clever? Mad scientist? Artist? Genius? Restless chef who is happy to be independent? Renaissance man?\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128442\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128442\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1063-new.jpg\" alt=\"Executive Chef/Proprietor Ryan Shelton shows his recently acquired tattoo that is the address of Merchant Roots in Roman numerals.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1063-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1063-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1063-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1063-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1063-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1063-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1063-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1063-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1063-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1063-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1063-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Executive Chef/Proprietor Ryan Shelton shows his recently acquired tattoo that is the address of Merchant Roots in Roman numerals. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Shelton pretty much wears all those hats as Executive Chef/Proprietor and with Michael as Proprietress/co-pilot for the adventurous business plan. That’s the best way to understand how the grocer and The Table concepts both came about and why they can work in this particular situation. Look at their resumes and you’ll see how all of this can fit under one compact roof.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Shelton is a trained pastry chef and was the lead Pastry Chef for Mountain View’s esteemed \u003ca href=\"http://cheztj.com/\">chez TJ\u003c/a>. His original South Bay home region then continued as the base for his culinary experience with time on the savory side as Chef de Cuisine at the molecular gastronomy-centric \u003ca href=\"http://www.maisonbaume.com/\">Baumé\u003c/a> in Palo Alto, followed by a short period as Executive Chef at (the now closed) Le Cigare Volant restaurant at Boony Doon Winery’s tasting room in Santa Cruz. His permanent career and residential move to San Francisco led him to Polk Street where he was Executive Chef for the highly rated but short-lived Verbena and its short-lived tenure as Reverb Kitchen & Bar (it’s now \u003ca href=\"http://www.mezcalitosf.com/\">Mezcalito\u003c/a>).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Michael’s background is more in beverages as a certified sommelier and includes time working at bars like The Thomas in Napa (since closed) and the sensational Kauai tiki bar, \u003ca href=\"http://tikiiniki.com/\">Tiki Iniki\u003c/a>, in addition to restaurants with strong wine and bar programs like \u003ca href=\"http://mouradsf.com/\">Mourad\u003c/a> and Verbena/Reverb. But, she’s also gifted at a whole array of other food-oriented crafts and actually a certified cheese expert.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The idea for Merchant Roots’ grocer side has been in Shelton’s mind for many years but the wheels were truly set in motion after he and Michael worked 100 days straight at \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2015/3/24/8283513/verbena-quietly-shifts-concept-will-re-open-this-week-as-reverb\">Reverb\u003c/a> — only to see the restaurant then close. Both knew that a sustainable quality of life had to be part of the equation for their personal project, an idea that sadly isn’t seen much in the restaurant and bar industry. So, Michael thought about the three-night-a-week Table to go with the five-day-a-week grocer as a balanced solution with their personal lives (Michael has a nine-year old son) and diverse talents.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Indeed, Michael’s chocolate chip cookie contribution may one day lead to a Cookie Roots spin-off but many of her contributions to Merchant Roots could honestly have their own spin-off. The most obvious, of course, would be the wine shop component. It will grow to have 84 labels of engaging wines from notable (mostly younger and less “famous”) producers in California, France, Spain, Italy and some of the lesser-known regions at home and abroad. Think of it as a wine-choosing app but…with the human concierge already making tough decisions for you. San Francisco isn’t lacking in great wine boutiques but several of the celebrated ones (K&L, Flatiron) can be daunting to navigate with too many choices and not enough help. Labels at Merchant Roots have standouts from the new California Wine front (Broc, Matthiasson) but also the equivalent upstart game-changers in Europe like Le Macchiole and Peter Later. Michael doesn’t delve into the pricey trophy wines of Napa and Bordeaux, and does keep value-minded options kindly in mind with a surprising number of enjoyable $10-$15 wines on hand. If you’re staying at the shop for lunch, a half-dozen of the wines are poured by-the-glass.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128491\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128491\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6535-new.jpg\" alt=\"The Larder\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6535-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6535-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6535-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6535-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6535-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6535-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6535-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6535-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6535-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6535-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6535-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Larder \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The larder on the wall opposite is also largely Michael’s domain. She makes preserves (all $7) in all sorts of tempting bright colors and flavors that are already at the top of the very small list of San Francisco-made jams, marmalades and jellies. A jar of mandarin jelly combines satsumas and clementines, while the yuzu marmalade features citrus rind and Navel orange. Right now in the heart of spring, there’s a rhubarb-pear jam and a Meyer lemon jam featuring whole pulp in the mix for an extra sweet and sour punch. Hopefully those jams will be served on toast one day (this is San Francisco, after all) but for now you can at least find the rhubarb jam dotting the cheese plate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128488\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128488\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6393-new.jpg\" alt=\"Merchant Roots jam\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6393-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6393-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6393-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6393-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6393-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6393-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6393-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6393-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6393-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6393-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6393-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Merchant Roots jam \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Salts in the larder are mixed in-house and will tempt home cooks just as much as the preserves. The roster of salts goes well beyond the ubiquitous sea salt with Elemental salt (eucalyptus, Szechuan peppercorn, volcanic salt, lemon) and Sicilian salt (Calabrian chile, oregano, rosemary.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128496\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128496\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6394-new.jpg\" alt=\"Salts in the larder are mixed in-house.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6394-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6394-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6394-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6394-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6394-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6394-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6394-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6394-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6394-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6394-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6394-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Salts in the larder are mixed in-house. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Then, there are the soaps. Yes, soaps. Michael cleverly uses all cooking quality ingredients (coconut oil, avocado oil for example) to make the intensely fragrant soaps that make up their own line called “Milk & Raven.” Dare we say that we almost want to eat them?\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128487\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128487\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6402-new.jpg\" alt=\"Lavender soap from their own line called “Milk & Raven.”\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6402-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6402-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6402-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6402-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6402-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6402-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6402-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6402-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6402-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6402-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6402-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Lavender soap from their own line called “Milk & Raven.” \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>You’ll also find drinking chocolate at the larder, hailing from Santa Cruz. It’s one of the few things not made at Merchant Roots but don’t start calling out Shelton and Michael for this. The high caffeine, intensely concentrated flavors of the mixes are from \u003ca href=\"http://www.mutarichocolate.com/\">Mutari Chocolate\u003c/a>, a true master of the art and his products are hard to find in SF. The larder’s teas come from Berkeley’s \u003ca href=\"http://leavesandflowers.com/\">Leaves and Flowers\u003c/a> and are available to be enjoyed in-house brews. It’s worth noting that coffee for enjoying only in-house comes from \u003ca href=\"https://www.redbaycoffee.com/\">Red Bay Coffee\u003c/a> of Oakland and there actually is a hidden espresso maker if you ask for a cappuccino. Yes, this might be San Francisco’s first espresso speakeasy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Merchant Roots’ home is as adorable as the concept itself, thanks mostly to a large woven fiber art piece (Instagram alert!) by local weaver \u003ca href=\"https://www.meghanshimek.com/\">Meghan Bogden Shimek\u003c/a>. Foldable café tables are attached to the fiber piece’s wall (those tables will be collapsed for dinner service) and have extremely comfortable copper wire chairs draped with faux furs for sitting in. The Table itself resides between the art piece wall and the wine wall. Do note that The Table’s utensils won’t skimp on the luxurious quality with pottery by Berkeley’s \u003ca href=\"http://koidestudio.com/index.html\">Kiyomi Kiode\u003c/a> and ferociously delicate and refined wine glasses by \u003ca href=\"http://www.sophienwald.com/en/\">Sophienwald\u003c/a> of Austria. And, yes this doesn’t seem like a WiFi kind of place and you’re right about that. Leave the laptop at home or bring the hot spot.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128476\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128476\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6323-new.jpg\" alt=\"Large woven fiber art piece by local weaver Meghan Bogden Shimek.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6323-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6323-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6323-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6323-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6323-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6323-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6323-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6323-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6323-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6323-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6323-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Large woven fiber art piece by local weaver Meghan Bogden Shimek. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Unfairly, Merchant Roots has become the answer to an inside joke within the restaurant industry for substantial opening delays. Restaurants and bars in San Francisco are routinely delayed for the city’s notorious permitting challenges and out of control expensive prices for virtually everything. Folks in the industry sometimes say, “Yes, that restaurant is taking forever to open but it’s not Merchant Roots-level delayed.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s definitely not Shelton and Michael’s fault. The over yearlong delay from the original ETA is a smorgasbord of San Francisco restaurateur challenges. One that diners don’t often think about played a key part in adding the delay — construction crews favoring the thicker wallets of wealthier investment-backed restaurants (we won’t name names). Is this where San Francisco dining is going? Can independent restaurants be helped?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This part of Fillmore Street was historically filled with black-owned shops and restaurants, along with the jazz clubs that made this the Fillmore Jazz District. Except, there are basically no jazz clubs or black-owned businesses here anymore. One of the last ones of the corridor, \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/article/Fillmore-singing-blues-over-jazz-district-6747312.php?utm_campaign=sfgate&utm_source=article&utm_medium=https%253A%252F%252Fwww.sfgate.com%252Finsidescoop%252Farticle%252FThe-Fillmore-s-Black-Bark-has-closed-as-it-12486002.php%253Ft%253D157de05c32\">Black Bark BBQ\u003c/a>, had to \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfgate.com/insidescoop/article/The-Fillmore-s-Black-Bark-has-closed-as-it-12486002.php?t=157de05c32\">relocate\u003c/a>. The San Francisco Chronicle’s Jonathan Kauffman just wrote an \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/restaurants/article/Fernay-McPherson-and-the-movement-that-found-12907544.php\">excellent profile about this neighborhood\u003c/a> and this sad realization for the Fillmore’s demographics.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s an unfortunate change for the neighborhood, albeit one that is very reflective of Divisadero just up the hill. Both are getting increasingly gentrified like their glossy nearby peers of Hayes Valley and Fillmore in Lower Pacific Heights. Yes, this is San Francisco 2018 and we could talk all day about gentrification.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the same time, this is a story about how the newer food businesses on Fillmore all started as small business concepts and have grown into thriving projects that should be celebrated. Wise Sons, Boba Guys and State Bird Provisions all weren’t glitzy or deep money-backed when they first opened. \u003ca href=\"http://www.fatangelsf.com/\">Fat Angel\u003c/a> was the very first of Hi Neighbor’s restaurants and still isn’t very well-known beyond its regulars. Avery’s chef-partner Rodney Wages went through the ringer at many top kitchens in order to start a pop-up that morphed into \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/126767/avery-opens-on-fillmore-as-sfs-next-elaborate-tasting-menu-destination\">Avery\u003c/a>. These restaurateurs worked hard to become names known citywide.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Shelton and Michael are no different — remember that 100 days we mentioned? They sure know this industry all too well. On the side, the two have even been offering doughnut and pasta making classes with \u003ca href=\"https://www.cozymeal.com/chefs/788/chef-ryan\">Cozymeal\u003c/a> not just because it’s fun but also to make money. (Full disclosure: this writer took a pasta making class from Shelton and is now at least not awful at the difficult art). They also do high-volume catering and various other projects because, hey, when your business isn’t making money in this pricey city, how do you make money?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Luckily, both have no shortage of talent, imagination or desire to fulfill their hopes. Shelton even has a tattoo of Merchant Roots’ 1365 address in roman numerals (MCCCLXV) and a tattoo of a quail, the California state bird. The chef certainly really cares about this project and where this project calls home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128489\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128489\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6416-new.jpg\" alt=\"Executive Chef Ryan Shelton displays his quail tattoo.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2880\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6416-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6416-new-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6416-new-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6416-new-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6416-new-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6416-new-1180x1770.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6416-new-960x1440.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6416-new-240x360.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6416-new-375x563.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6416-new-520x780.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Executive Chef Ryan Shelton displays his quail tattoo. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Restaurateurs and entrepreneurs like Shelton and Michael champion two universally beloved things in this city, whether you’re a techie millennial or lived here 55 years: bighearted small businesses that really focus on doing a few things and doing them extremely well; and clean, high quality food. A few modern tastes find their way into Merchant Roots (kale!) but there’s also a circa 1900 era vintage sausage stuffer and a small town, everybody is welcome vibe. It’s delicious, upbeat and family-friendly — heck, even dogs will appreciate the upcoming unveiling of peanut butter raviolis for them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Finally, Shelton and Michael are doing what they want to do and luckily for diners, they do it really, really well. You can’t help but root for them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128534\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128534\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1091-new1.jpg\" alt=\"Executive Chef Ryan Shelton and Sous Chef David Hamilton-Kidd making pasta.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1091-new1.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1091-new1-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1091-new1-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1091-new1-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1091-new1-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1091-new1-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1091-new1-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1091-new1-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1091-new1-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1091-new1-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1091-new1-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Executive Chef Ryan Shelton and Sous Chef David Hamilton-Kidd making pasta. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.merchantroots.com/\">\u003cstrong>Merchant Roots\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/Merchant+Roots/@37.7821316,-122.4348981,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808580bbd4c63a77:0xf77eb4da52eaec2!8m2!3d37.7821274!4d-122.4327041\">1365 Fillmore St.\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94115\u003cbr>\nInstagram: \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/merchantroots/?hl=en\">@merchantroots\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nFacebook:\u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/merchantroots/\"> Merchant Roots\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MerchantRoots\">@MerchantRoots\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nHours: Tuesday-Saturday, 9am-5pm; The Table will serve dinner Thursday-Saturday\u003cbr>\nPrice: The Shop: $-$$; The Table: $$$$\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "With all kinds of homemade foods from preserves to pastas to focaccia offered in the daytime and a Table full of constantly changing creative themes in the evening, Merchant Roots is a tiny space with grand ideas, now open in the Fillmore.",
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"title": "Merchant Roots’ Daytime Grocer and Imaginative Nighttime Tasting Menu Table Arrives on Fillmore | KQED",
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"headline": "Merchant Roots’ Daytime Grocer and Imaginative Nighttime Tasting Menu Table Arrives on Fillmore",
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"nprByline": "\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/author/trevorfelch\">Trevor Felch\u003c/a> (writer), \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/author/wendy-goodfriend\">Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/a> (photos/video)",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cem>With all kinds of homemade foods from preserves to pastas to focaccia offered in the daytime and a Table full of constantly changing creative themes in the evening, Merchant Roots is a tiny space with grand ideas, now open in the Fillmore.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Think of that outrageously talented friend or colleague or family member in your life who is truly a Renaissance man or woman…you know, the one who is just so great at so many things from tennis to yoga to coding to playing the cello, and is a complete fountain of knowledge for everything from fixing dishwashers to knowing which Goethe poem is the best? Well, as far as restaurant-market-café-larders go in San Francisco, the closest equivalent is Merchant Roots, an eminently charming addition to the \u003ca href=\"http://statebirdsf.com/home/\">State Bird Provisions\u003c/a> side of Fillmore on the thoroughfare’s rapidly growing dining stretch south of Geary.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128480\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128480\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6259-new.jpg\" alt=\"Entrance to Merchant Roots with Business Hours signage.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6259-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6259-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6259-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6259-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6259-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6259-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6259-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6259-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6259-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6259-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6259-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Entrance to Merchant Roots with Business Hours signage. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>It’s impossible to give a blanket label for this concept, long in the making by business and life partners Ryan Shelton and Madison Michael. There really is nothing quite like it in the Bay Area. You can come for a homemade scone and a cup of coffee at 9am. You can feel free to drop by for a plate of pasta (yes, homemade) and a glass of Prosecco to treat yourself to a late afternoon lunch feast. You can pick up a kale and chicken salad or a sandwich (on homemade focaccia, obviously) to-go en route to catching the 38R on Geary. You can buy dry or wet pasta for dinner at home and pair it with a bottle from the under-the-radar wine boutique that is tucked in the far corner of the tiny Merchant Roots space. Then there are homemade soaps, sipping chocolate mixes, homemade jams, freshly baked quiche slices…we could go on. Then the next stage of the project, \u003cstrong>The Table at Merchant Roots\u003c/strong>, comes in a few weeks as the next marquee tasting menu for a rapidly growing category in San Francisco, except this one might be considered the most whimsical — and intimate — of the elite bunch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128492\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128492\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6624-new.jpg\" alt=\"Executive Chef Ryan Shelton and Sous Chef Adriana Fleming behind the front counter and display case at Merchant Roots.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6624-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6624-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6624-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6624-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6624-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6624-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6624-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6624-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6624-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6624-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6624-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Executive Chef Ryan Shelton and Sous Chef Adriana Fleming behind the front counter and display case at Merchant Roots. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>All of this resides in a 1000–square foot space that somehow manages to feel spacious and not seem cluttered whatsoever. Yes, it’s all pretty overwhelming but also so relaxed and calm when you step inside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The closest comparison for Merchant Roots is \u003ca href=\"https://www.brooklynfare.com/pages/chefs-table\">Chef’s Table at Brooklyn Fare\u003c/a> in New York, a casual shop in the daytime and ambitious tasting menu in the nighttime hybrid that has received global accolades for its inventiveness. Healdsburg has \u003ca href=\"https://healdsburgshed.com/\">SHED\u003c/a> but that so-called “grange” is about 10 times bigger than Merchant Roots and has a twee-bucolic lifestyle theme that strikes many as precious with its fermentation lab, quinoa salads and rather pricey kitchen tools. In the end, they’re vaguely related but really hard to directly compare.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The first thing every guest notices while walking by Merchant Roots is the window’s eye-catching hand-painted sign by Bay Area artist \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/coolhandken/\">Ken Davis\u003c/a> that sets the tone for the shop’s contemporary interpretation of retro design inside. It could easily be a sign for a blacksmith shop in the Wild West, but also seems hip. It’s timeless and elegant cursive with artistic flair.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128461\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128461\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6475-new.jpg\" alt=\"Sous Chef David Hamilton-Kidd making fresh pasta at Merchant Roots\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2880\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6475-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6475-new-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6475-new-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6475-new-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6475-new-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6475-new-1180x1770.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6475-new-960x1440.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6475-new-240x360.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6475-new-375x563.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6475-new-520x780.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sous Chef David Hamilton-Kidd making fresh pasta at Merchant Roots \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Then your eyes wander past the sign into the actual window where sous chef David Hamilton-Kidd will surely be rolling out pasta dough or cranking dough through the Torchio hand-press pasta maker. Fillmore pedestrians stop by, planned or unplanned nowadays, to watch the pasta making process like how people go window browsing around Union Square come Christmas time.\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/Izd0upkwbYY'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/Izd0upkwbYY'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cp>After stepping inside, chances are high that your attention will immediately drift towards the gorgeous pastry case, where immaculate chocolate-drizzled cannolis with Luxardo cherries dramatically peeking out of both ends and chocolate-dipped almond and anise biscotti ($3) beckon. You might be tempted by a muffin version of carrot cake with a ricotta cream cheese stuffing ($4) on one day and then a perfect slice of springtime via a strawberry and almond cream tart ($6) on the next visit. There usually will be doughnuts, perhaps a simple old-fashioned on one pedestal and a coconut-lime one made of mochi and milk dough, dusted with coconut flakes and lime zest ($3) on another.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128472\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128472\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6277-new.jpg\" alt=\"Chocolate-drizzled cannolis with Luxardo cherries dramatically peeking out of both ends.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6277-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6277-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6277-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6277-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6277-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6277-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6277-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6277-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6277-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6277-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6277-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chocolate-drizzled cannolis with Luxardo cherries dramatically peeking out of both ends. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128460\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128460\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6354-new.jpg\" alt=\"Strawberry and Almond Cream Tart.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6354-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6354-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6354-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6354-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6354-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6354-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6354-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6354-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6354-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6354-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6354-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Strawberry and Almond Cream Tart. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Upon press time, the bakers were still perfecting a gluten-free brownie recipe but you can count on that being a major hit when it premiers soon because this town sure loves it’s gluten-free treats that actually taste as good as their flour-filled equivalents.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128458\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128458\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6358-new.jpg\" alt=\"Showstopper chocolate chip cookies.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6358-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6358-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6358-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6358-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6358-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6358-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6358-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6358-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6358-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6358-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6358-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Showstopper chocolate chip cookies. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>However, the showstopper of the crew is the chocolate chip cookie ($3) that takes the chocolate part very seriously. It’s Michael’s recipe and she is adamant about making sure that the cookie is thick and soft, but not overly doughy or cumbersome, with a just a smidge of crunch at the outer edges. You’ll certainly taste the butter in the cookie — there’s a lot of it. But, what you probably didn’t guess is that it’s actually brown cultured butter mixed with equal parts muscovado sugar and regular sugar that give it a certain alluringly sharp sweetness.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The other major catch with the recipe is that Michael insists on the composition being more chocolate than cookie. That means there should be about 1.5 \u003ca href=\"https://www.guittard.com/\">Guittard\u003c/a> dark chocolate wafers per cookie but you’ll see some cookies where that figure looks more like 3. Nobody will complain, though. A finish of fleur de sel tops what is no doubt going to be a contender in the competitive “Best Chocolate Chip Cookie” debates of San Francisco. Cookie Monster strongly approves of this new entry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128441\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128441\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1056-new.jpg\" alt=\"Madison Michael's hands showcase the lunch menu at Merchant Roots\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1056-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1056-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1056-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1056-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1056-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1056-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1056-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1056-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1056-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1056-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1056-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Madison Michael's hands showcase the lunch menu at Merchant Roots \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There is nothing wrong with having muffins and cookies for lunch but you’ll need real lunch food at some point. The aforementioned housemade focaccia serves as a base for a pair of sandwiches (termed sando) ($9). One is a fascinating shaved pastrami-spiced smoked carrot number where the shaved vegetable looks like slices of lox and comes with \u003ca href=\"https://www.pointreyescheese.com/point-reyes-toma\">Pt. Reyes Toma cheese\u003c/a> and raisin jam. That same semi-hard cow’s milk cheese from Marin joins tangy \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mortadella\">mortadella\u003c/a> slices with arugula and Bavarian mustard in the other sandwich. Both are simple, precise and filling without being heavy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128454\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128454\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6676-new.jpg\" alt=\"Shaved pastrami-spiced smoked carrot sando that comes with Pt. Reyes Toma cheese and raisin jam.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6676-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6676-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6676-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6676-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6676-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6676-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6676-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6676-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6676-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6676-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6676-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Shaved pastrami-spiced smoked carrot sando that comes with Pt. Reyes Toma cheese and raisin jam. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Salads include ever-trendy kale leaves lightly coated with preserved lemon vinaigrette. Shelton finishes it with chicken and Parmigiano Reggiano for a satisfying but virtuous midday meal ($13; $10 without chicken). Moroccan chicken salad is a completely different styled offering ($14) and brings together cashews, crispy chickpeas, yogurt and citrus-mint vinaigrette. Venturing beyond salads and sandwiches, Shelton has a little fun with an “everything” spiced, cream cheese and smoked salmon-topped quiche with a potato crust ($12). It’s a bagel and latke-minded quiche. Somebody is having fun.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128452\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128452\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6787-new.jpg\" alt=\"Kale Salad with Parmigiano-Reggiano, Preserved Lemon Vinaigrette with Chicken\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6787-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6787-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6787-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6787-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6787-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6787-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6787-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6787-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6787-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6787-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6787-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Kale Salad with Parmigiano-Reggiano, Preserved Lemon Vinaigrette with Chicken \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128512\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128512\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6409-new.jpg\" alt=\"Smoked Salmon Quiche with Potato Crust, Spinach, Cream Cheese, 'Everything'\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6409-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6409-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6409-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6409-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6409-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6409-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6409-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6409-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6409-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6409-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6409-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Smoked Salmon Quiche with Potato Crust, Spinach, Cream Cheese, 'Everything' \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Salads are packaged to-go and all of them and the quiche are also available for enjoying plated in the café. Sandwiches, meanwhile, are all packaged to-go but can be consumed in Merchant Roots’ environs, along with being toasted on the spot. It’s a smart idea to have flexibility between takeout and eating-in because the lunch crowd can vary in a more residential-centered strip like this one. Future plans also call for a breakfast sandwich and a fried mortadella sando meant for dining in.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128509\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128509\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6297-new.jpg\" alt=\"Food To-Go includes salads, sandos, fresh pasta and sauce.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6297-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6297-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6297-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6297-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6297-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6297-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6297-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6297-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6297-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6297-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6297-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Food To-Go includes salads, sandos, fresh pasta and sauce. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>If you’re lingering for lunch, though, the must-try house meal really is the pasta, as the pasta making in the window might suggest. It’s Shelton’s specialty and one he has been fanatical about for life since being a boy growing up in San Jose as part of an Italian-American family. The enterprise could simply be Pasta Roots (or Semolina + Water?) for how important pasta is to the operation and how skilled Shelton is at it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>San Francisco is a pasta-crazed town as is proven by the dozens of Cal-Ital restaurants and even more informal red sauce and pizza joints. But, who makes their own dry and fresh pasta, pairs it with homemade sauces for enjoying in-house, and also sells both the sauces and pastas retail for you to make your own version at home? It’s definitely a tiny niche and this is a welcome addition to the diminutive club.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128468\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128468\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6621-new.jpg\" alt=\"Housemade tomato chele pasta.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6621-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6621-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6621-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6621-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6621-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6621-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6621-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6621-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6621-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6621-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6621-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Housemade tomato chele pasta. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>You’ll find a handful of pastas each day on the “daily pastas” menu for freshly prepared lunch dishes. The early must-order is tomato chele ($24), shaped similarly to an unstuffed small tortellini, with just the right amount of indentations and curves to hold its sauce teammate, a lobster reduction made from the juice of lobster heads where their tails have been used as meat. Shelton finishes the dish lobster roll-style with curls of celery and buttered brioche “croutons” evoking the roll’s usual hot dog bun. Of course, the brioche is homemade, being surplus brioche from doughnut dough.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128485\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128485\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6484-new.jpg\" alt=\"Tomato Chele pasta with lobster sauce, buttered brioche croutons, celery.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6484-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6484-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6484-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6484-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6484-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6484-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6484-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6484-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6484-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6484-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6484-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tomato Chele pasta with lobster sauce, buttered brioche croutons, celery. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Elsewhere in the pasta neighborhood, spaghettine made on the chitarra (like a small string harp) is joined by hen ragu ($11), while ricotta cavatelli are snap pea-glazed and accompanied by lemon mascarpone and smoked prosciutto ($13). Gargatti (think short caterpillars) comes with spring vegetables and a confit tomato crema “parma rossa” sauce ($13). Sometimes there is even chilled pasta like gnochetti with pesto, roasted peppers and red onion ($9).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Eventually, Shelton will be serving his own charcuterie made at his commissary in the Mission (seriously, how do they make pasta, charcuterie AND pastries with with just Shelton, Michael, Hamilton-Kidd and sous chef Adriana Fleming handling almost of the day-to-day duties for the whole operation?). For now, he’s offering a charcuterie platter sourced from elsewhere ($16) and a cheese plate ($17) with good friend Eric Miller of Mission Cheese helping as a fromage whisperer/advisor. A combination of the two ($20) is also offered. On the cheese side for the combo, Pt. Reyes Toma comes with the ever popular \u003ca href=\"https://www.cowgirlcreamery.com/library-of-cheese/mt-tam\">Cowgirl Creamery Mt. Tam\u003c/a> and gooey, funky \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Comt%C3%A9_cheese\">Comté\u003c/a> from France. The cured meats include pâté de campagne, speck from \u003ca href=\"http://www.redtablemeatco.com/\">Red Table\u003c/a> in Minneapolis and \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Soppressata\">sopressata\u003c/a> from \u003ca href=\"http://www.framani.com/\">Fra’Mani\u003c/a> in Berkeley.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128464\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128464\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6581-new.jpg\" alt=\"Cheese and Charcuterie Plate\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6581-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6581-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6581-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6581-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6581-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6581-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6581-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6581-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6581-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6581-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6581-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cheese and Charcuterie Plate \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>All of this is very daytime-oriented food that is friendly on the wallet and has a universal appeal for all ages. Who doesn’t love a good cookie or plate of pasta? We’re all getting tired of restaurants and food makers calling themselves “craft” and “artisanal” but that is what sets Merchant Roots’ grocer component apart. There is that special homemade touch that makes nothing taste watered down. These are indeed artisan products and dishes by experts who know their way around a great doughnut and kale salad…and also know how to put on a lavish, avant-garde tasting menu feast.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yes, that’s where \u003cstrong>The Table at Merchant Roots\u003c/strong> comes into the picture, arriving in the next few weeks (probably in June). The Table is literally a monkeypod table that is used for casual communal dining during the day and will be an intimate eight-seat, one sitting dinner setting three nights a week.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128671\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6237-new.jpg\" alt=\"The Table at Merchant Roots\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128671\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6237-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6237-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6237-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6237-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6237-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6237-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6237-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6237-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6237-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6237-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6237-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Table at Merchant Roots \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There really is nothing like the daytime grocer part but there isn’t anything quite like the atypical, constantly evolving and bizarre nature of what Shelton and Michael are pursuing with The Table. The experience will be centered on various themes that go well beyond a time and place like the tableaus for \u003ca href=\"https://www.nextrestaurant.com/\">Next\u003c/a> in Chicago. The opening theme for The Table is “Elements” and runs nine courses from a yuzu sorbet rock for “moon” to an outrageously creative cotton candy and mint chocolate ganache “comet.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To give you an idea of how advanced these dishes are, one “Elements” course called “Fire” centers on charcoal-grilled dry-aged New York steak, offset by charred pearl onions, crispy maitake mushrooms, leek ash and sunchoke “coal.” That’s not all. The classic steak or prime rib sauces of horseradish cream and red wine demi-glace find their way onto the log. Yes, the log. The serving platter is probably even more noteworthy than anything for this one dish. Shelton made 10 of the log platters by heavily charring the gnarly wood over several weeks to the point that they were fully pitch black and then stained them to keep the striking, even haunting appearance in place.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128471\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128471\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6707-new.jpg\" alt=\"One “Elements” course called “Fire” centers on charcoal-grilled dry-aged New York steak, offset by charred pearl onions, crispy maitake mushrooms, leek ash and sunchoke “coal.”\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6707-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6707-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6707-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6707-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6707-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6707-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6707-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6707-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6707-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6707-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6707-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">One “Elements” course called “Fire” centers on charcoal-grilled dry-aged New York steak, offset by charred pearl onions, crispy maitake mushrooms, leek ash and sunchoke “coal.” \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>That is just one course on one short-lived menu, but is a great reflection of the ambition on display and the ample creativity. The other bonus worth pointing out is that the opening $110 price tag per diner, while not at all cheap, is far below the total for its peers. The size and price of the menu will slightly fluctuate but several will stay in this format. Future menu themes include “Vanity Fair,” featuring everything ornate and gold-plated, and “Mermaids” with each dish literally made from sea ingredients all the way down to a bread that seems like a sourdough-fish sticks crossover. It’s made of kelp paste, haddock pureé and coconut flour (no yeast, just coconut flour paste that is inoculated over time with indigenous yeast!).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Clever? Mad scientist? Artist? Genius? Restless chef who is happy to be independent? Renaissance man?\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128442\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128442\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1063-new.jpg\" alt=\"Executive Chef/Proprietor Ryan Shelton shows his recently acquired tattoo that is the address of Merchant Roots in Roman numerals.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1063-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1063-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1063-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1063-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1063-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1063-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1063-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1063-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1063-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1063-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1063-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Executive Chef/Proprietor Ryan Shelton shows his recently acquired tattoo that is the address of Merchant Roots in Roman numerals. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Shelton pretty much wears all those hats as Executive Chef/Proprietor and with Michael as Proprietress/co-pilot for the adventurous business plan. That’s the best way to understand how the grocer and The Table concepts both came about and why they can work in this particular situation. Look at their resumes and you’ll see how all of this can fit under one compact roof.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Shelton is a trained pastry chef and was the lead Pastry Chef for Mountain View’s esteemed \u003ca href=\"http://cheztj.com/\">chez TJ\u003c/a>. His original South Bay home region then continued as the base for his culinary experience with time on the savory side as Chef de Cuisine at the molecular gastronomy-centric \u003ca href=\"http://www.maisonbaume.com/\">Baumé\u003c/a> in Palo Alto, followed by a short period as Executive Chef at (the now closed) Le Cigare Volant restaurant at Boony Doon Winery’s tasting room in Santa Cruz. His permanent career and residential move to San Francisco led him to Polk Street where he was Executive Chef for the highly rated but short-lived Verbena and its short-lived tenure as Reverb Kitchen & Bar (it’s now \u003ca href=\"http://www.mezcalitosf.com/\">Mezcalito\u003c/a>).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Michael’s background is more in beverages as a certified sommelier and includes time working at bars like The Thomas in Napa (since closed) and the sensational Kauai tiki bar, \u003ca href=\"http://tikiiniki.com/\">Tiki Iniki\u003c/a>, in addition to restaurants with strong wine and bar programs like \u003ca href=\"http://mouradsf.com/\">Mourad\u003c/a> and Verbena/Reverb. But, she’s also gifted at a whole array of other food-oriented crafts and actually a certified cheese expert.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The idea for Merchant Roots’ grocer side has been in Shelton’s mind for many years but the wheels were truly set in motion after he and Michael worked 100 days straight at \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2015/3/24/8283513/verbena-quietly-shifts-concept-will-re-open-this-week-as-reverb\">Reverb\u003c/a> — only to see the restaurant then close. Both knew that a sustainable quality of life had to be part of the equation for their personal project, an idea that sadly isn’t seen much in the restaurant and bar industry. So, Michael thought about the three-night-a-week Table to go with the five-day-a-week grocer as a balanced solution with their personal lives (Michael has a nine-year old son) and diverse talents.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Indeed, Michael’s chocolate chip cookie contribution may one day lead to a Cookie Roots spin-off but many of her contributions to Merchant Roots could honestly have their own spin-off. The most obvious, of course, would be the wine shop component. It will grow to have 84 labels of engaging wines from notable (mostly younger and less “famous”) producers in California, France, Spain, Italy and some of the lesser-known regions at home and abroad. Think of it as a wine-choosing app but…with the human concierge already making tough decisions for you. San Francisco isn’t lacking in great wine boutiques but several of the celebrated ones (K&L, Flatiron) can be daunting to navigate with too many choices and not enough help. Labels at Merchant Roots have standouts from the new California Wine front (Broc, Matthiasson) but also the equivalent upstart game-changers in Europe like Le Macchiole and Peter Later. Michael doesn’t delve into the pricey trophy wines of Napa and Bordeaux, and does keep value-minded options kindly in mind with a surprising number of enjoyable $10-$15 wines on hand. If you’re staying at the shop for lunch, a half-dozen of the wines are poured by-the-glass.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128491\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128491\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6535-new.jpg\" alt=\"The Larder\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6535-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6535-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6535-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6535-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6535-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6535-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6535-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6535-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6535-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6535-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6535-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Larder \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The larder on the wall opposite is also largely Michael’s domain. She makes preserves (all $7) in all sorts of tempting bright colors and flavors that are already at the top of the very small list of San Francisco-made jams, marmalades and jellies. A jar of mandarin jelly combines satsumas and clementines, while the yuzu marmalade features citrus rind and Navel orange. Right now in the heart of spring, there’s a rhubarb-pear jam and a Meyer lemon jam featuring whole pulp in the mix for an extra sweet and sour punch. Hopefully those jams will be served on toast one day (this is San Francisco, after all) but for now you can at least find the rhubarb jam dotting the cheese plate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128488\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128488\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6393-new.jpg\" alt=\"Merchant Roots jam\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6393-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6393-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6393-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6393-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6393-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6393-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6393-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6393-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6393-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6393-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6393-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Merchant Roots jam \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Salts in the larder are mixed in-house and will tempt home cooks just as much as the preserves. The roster of salts goes well beyond the ubiquitous sea salt with Elemental salt (eucalyptus, Szechuan peppercorn, volcanic salt, lemon) and Sicilian salt (Calabrian chile, oregano, rosemary.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128496\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128496\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6394-new.jpg\" alt=\"Salts in the larder are mixed in-house.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6394-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6394-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6394-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6394-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6394-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6394-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6394-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6394-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6394-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6394-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6394-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Salts in the larder are mixed in-house. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Then, there are the soaps. Yes, soaps. Michael cleverly uses all cooking quality ingredients (coconut oil, avocado oil for example) to make the intensely fragrant soaps that make up their own line called “Milk & Raven.” Dare we say that we almost want to eat them?\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128487\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128487\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6402-new.jpg\" alt=\"Lavender soap from their own line called “Milk & Raven.”\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6402-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6402-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6402-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6402-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6402-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6402-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6402-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6402-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6402-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6402-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6402-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Lavender soap from their own line called “Milk & Raven.” \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>You’ll also find drinking chocolate at the larder, hailing from Santa Cruz. It’s one of the few things not made at Merchant Roots but don’t start calling out Shelton and Michael for this. The high caffeine, intensely concentrated flavors of the mixes are from \u003ca href=\"http://www.mutarichocolate.com/\">Mutari Chocolate\u003c/a>, a true master of the art and his products are hard to find in SF. The larder’s teas come from Berkeley’s \u003ca href=\"http://leavesandflowers.com/\">Leaves and Flowers\u003c/a> and are available to be enjoyed in-house brews. It’s worth noting that coffee for enjoying only in-house comes from \u003ca href=\"https://www.redbaycoffee.com/\">Red Bay Coffee\u003c/a> of Oakland and there actually is a hidden espresso maker if you ask for a cappuccino. Yes, this might be San Francisco’s first espresso speakeasy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Merchant Roots’ home is as adorable as the concept itself, thanks mostly to a large woven fiber art piece (Instagram alert!) by local weaver \u003ca href=\"https://www.meghanshimek.com/\">Meghan Bogden Shimek\u003c/a>. Foldable café tables are attached to the fiber piece’s wall (those tables will be collapsed for dinner service) and have extremely comfortable copper wire chairs draped with faux furs for sitting in. The Table itself resides between the art piece wall and the wine wall. Do note that The Table’s utensils won’t skimp on the luxurious quality with pottery by Berkeley’s \u003ca href=\"http://koidestudio.com/index.html\">Kiyomi Kiode\u003c/a> and ferociously delicate and refined wine glasses by \u003ca href=\"http://www.sophienwald.com/en/\">Sophienwald\u003c/a> of Austria. And, yes this doesn’t seem like a WiFi kind of place and you’re right about that. Leave the laptop at home or bring the hot spot.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128476\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128476\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6323-new.jpg\" alt=\"Large woven fiber art piece by local weaver Meghan Bogden Shimek.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6323-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6323-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6323-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6323-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6323-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6323-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6323-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6323-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6323-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6323-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6323-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Large woven fiber art piece by local weaver Meghan Bogden Shimek. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Unfairly, Merchant Roots has become the answer to an inside joke within the restaurant industry for substantial opening delays. Restaurants and bars in San Francisco are routinely delayed for the city’s notorious permitting challenges and out of control expensive prices for virtually everything. Folks in the industry sometimes say, “Yes, that restaurant is taking forever to open but it’s not Merchant Roots-level delayed.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s definitely not Shelton and Michael’s fault. The over yearlong delay from the original ETA is a smorgasbord of San Francisco restaurateur challenges. One that diners don’t often think about played a key part in adding the delay — construction crews favoring the thicker wallets of wealthier investment-backed restaurants (we won’t name names). Is this where San Francisco dining is going? Can independent restaurants be helped?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This part of Fillmore Street was historically filled with black-owned shops and restaurants, along with the jazz clubs that made this the Fillmore Jazz District. Except, there are basically no jazz clubs or black-owned businesses here anymore. One of the last ones of the corridor, \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/article/Fillmore-singing-blues-over-jazz-district-6747312.php?utm_campaign=sfgate&utm_source=article&utm_medium=https%253A%252F%252Fwww.sfgate.com%252Finsidescoop%252Farticle%252FThe-Fillmore-s-Black-Bark-has-closed-as-it-12486002.php%253Ft%253D157de05c32\">Black Bark BBQ\u003c/a>, had to \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfgate.com/insidescoop/article/The-Fillmore-s-Black-Bark-has-closed-as-it-12486002.php?t=157de05c32\">relocate\u003c/a>. The San Francisco Chronicle’s Jonathan Kauffman just wrote an \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/restaurants/article/Fernay-McPherson-and-the-movement-that-found-12907544.php\">excellent profile about this neighborhood\u003c/a> and this sad realization for the Fillmore’s demographics.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s an unfortunate change for the neighborhood, albeit one that is very reflective of Divisadero just up the hill. Both are getting increasingly gentrified like their glossy nearby peers of Hayes Valley and Fillmore in Lower Pacific Heights. Yes, this is San Francisco 2018 and we could talk all day about gentrification.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the same time, this is a story about how the newer food businesses on Fillmore all started as small business concepts and have grown into thriving projects that should be celebrated. Wise Sons, Boba Guys and State Bird Provisions all weren’t glitzy or deep money-backed when they first opened. \u003ca href=\"http://www.fatangelsf.com/\">Fat Angel\u003c/a> was the very first of Hi Neighbor’s restaurants and still isn’t very well-known beyond its regulars. Avery’s chef-partner Rodney Wages went through the ringer at many top kitchens in order to start a pop-up that morphed into \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/126767/avery-opens-on-fillmore-as-sfs-next-elaborate-tasting-menu-destination\">Avery\u003c/a>. These restaurateurs worked hard to become names known citywide.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Shelton and Michael are no different — remember that 100 days we mentioned? They sure know this industry all too well. On the side, the two have even been offering doughnut and pasta making classes with \u003ca href=\"https://www.cozymeal.com/chefs/788/chef-ryan\">Cozymeal\u003c/a> not just because it’s fun but also to make money. (Full disclosure: this writer took a pasta making class from Shelton and is now at least not awful at the difficult art). They also do high-volume catering and various other projects because, hey, when your business isn’t making money in this pricey city, how do you make money?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Luckily, both have no shortage of talent, imagination or desire to fulfill their hopes. Shelton even has a tattoo of Merchant Roots’ 1365 address in roman numerals (MCCCLXV) and a tattoo of a quail, the California state bird. The chef certainly really cares about this project and where this project calls home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128489\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128489\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6416-new.jpg\" alt=\"Executive Chef Ryan Shelton displays his quail tattoo.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2880\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6416-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6416-new-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6416-new-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6416-new-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6416-new-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6416-new-1180x1770.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6416-new-960x1440.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6416-new-240x360.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6416-new-375x563.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6416-new-520x780.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Executive Chef Ryan Shelton displays his quail tattoo. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Restaurateurs and entrepreneurs like Shelton and Michael champion two universally beloved things in this city, whether you’re a techie millennial or lived here 55 years: bighearted small businesses that really focus on doing a few things and doing them extremely well; and clean, high quality food. A few modern tastes find their way into Merchant Roots (kale!) but there’s also a circa 1900 era vintage sausage stuffer and a small town, everybody is welcome vibe. It’s delicious, upbeat and family-friendly — heck, even dogs will appreciate the upcoming unveiling of peanut butter raviolis for them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Finally, Shelton and Michael are doing what they want to do and luckily for diners, they do it really, really well. You can’t help but root for them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128534\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128534\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1091-new1.jpg\" alt=\"Executive Chef Ryan Shelton and Sous Chef David Hamilton-Kidd making pasta.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1091-new1.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1091-new1-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1091-new1-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1091-new1-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1091-new1-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1091-new1-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1091-new1-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1091-new1-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1091-new1-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1091-new1-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1091-new1-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Executive Chef Ryan Shelton and Sous Chef David Hamilton-Kidd making pasta. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.merchantroots.com/\">\u003cstrong>Merchant Roots\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/Merchant+Roots/@37.7821316,-122.4348981,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808580bbd4c63a77:0xf77eb4da52eaec2!8m2!3d37.7821274!4d-122.4327041\">1365 Fillmore St.\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94115\u003cbr>\nInstagram: \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/merchantroots/?hl=en\">@merchantroots\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nFacebook:\u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/merchantroots/\"> Merchant Roots\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MerchantRoots\">@MerchantRoots\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nHours: Tuesday-Saturday, 9am-5pm; The Table will serve dinner Thursday-Saturday\u003cbr>\nPrice: The Shop: $-$$; The Table: $$$$\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Birdsong Provides a Fine Dining High Note for SoMa",
"title": "Birdsong Provides a Fine Dining High Note for SoMa",
"headTitle": "New Restaurants 2018 | Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cem>Husband-and-wife couple Chris Bleidorn and Aarti Shetty make their ambitious debut as restaurant owners — with hints of the serene Pacific Northwest — in a stunning SoMa dining room at Birdsong\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like the structure of a great song, there are all sorts of compelling supporting components that let the journey ebb and flow then crescendo towards the all-important main chorus at SoMa’s high-end seasonal California meets Pacific Northwest newcomer, Birdsong.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The menu (the lyrics) is somewhat inspired by our neighbors to the north along the Pacific Coast, somewhat inspired by our local terroir, and heavily inspired by the chef’s highly impressive World’s 50 Best and Michelin star-filled fine dining background.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128339\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1025-new.jpg\" alt=\"The menu\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128339\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1025-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1025-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1025-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1025-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1025-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1025-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1025-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1025-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1025-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1025-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1025-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The menu \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The restaurant is springing for a duel tasting menu and à la carte format (the rhythm) that can be pulled off, but sure is daunting for the kitchen to do.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The breathtakingly gorgeous space (the background harmonies) could be a living room set-up for a cover spread in a chic magazine like Monocle.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128359\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6144-new.jpg\" alt=\"The entryway to Birdsong\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128359\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6144-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6144-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6144-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6144-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6144-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6144-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6144-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6144-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6144-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6144-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6144-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The entryway to Birdsong \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128326\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6197-new.jpg\" alt=\"Birdsong interior space with open kitchen and counter areas\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128326\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6197-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6197-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6197-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6197-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6197-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6197-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6197-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6197-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6197-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6197-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6197-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Birdsong interior space with open kitchen and counter areas \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The Mid-Market/SoMa border location at this particular place and time (the tempo) in San Francisco is pretty much front and center for everything that is being debated by this year’s mayoral candidates, and has a history of being unfriendly to friendly restaurants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And all of these storylines build towards the chorus — the heart of why Birdsong has been one of the most anticipated restaurant openings in the city for months and is here for diners to venture to Mission Street to experience firsthand. No, Birdsong isn’t about tail-to-beak whole poultry cooking, a Grateful Dead song, a mid-20th century British novel, or somebody’s deep involvement with the Audubon Society. Birdsong is a pleasant reference to the beauty of nature and how birds help ecosystems grow and stay healthy, setting a mentality for diners as they step into a restaurant that wants to slow down cooking and bring it back to its roaring fire and pristine ingredients past. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That background sets the stage for the true reason (the chorus) of why Birdsong is a pivotal restaurant for the Bay Area and national restaurant watchers to know about: it’s the solo debut of one of the (or possibly THE) most under-the-radar, ready for the bright lights chefs in California.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128338\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0979-new.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Chris Bleidorn in the downstairs meat locker.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128338\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0979-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0979-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0979-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0979-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0979-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0979-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0979-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0979-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0979-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0979-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0979-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Chris Bleidorn in the downstairs meat locker. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Chances are you don’t know Chris Bleidorn. But it’s very likely you know a lot of the stops on his resume. Alinea. Benu. Saison. Atelier Crenn. Johnson and Wales. This isn’t meant to be a LinkedIn entry for the chef but it’s vital to mention this because Bleidorn clearly has the background to make an impact straight out of the gates with Birdsong. It’s the culinary equivalent of a B.A. at Stanford, a Rhodes Scholar at Oxford and a Ph.D from Harvard. He’s ready for prime time and the Bay Area’s dining scene is ready for him.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bleidorn is opening with a preview eight-course, $135 tasting menu. Soon, that will expand to 12-13 courses for $168 plus à la carte options. The à la carte dishes will be configured differently and there will be little to no overlap (unlike at another newcomer trying the same thing, \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/127083/pop-up-to-permanent-sorrel-hits-prime-time-with-a-full-time-presidio-heights-home\">Sorrel\u003c/a>). As Bleidorn told us, tasting menu dishes are smaller and need to be “impactful” and “the first sip [or] the first bite needs to resonate.” À la carte dishes have to be stretched out more and not go for an immediate “punch.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, we’ll have to wait a little longer to find out what those à la carte dishes look like. For now, though, we definitely have a good sense of his cooking style that shows subtle influences from his prior stints at those aforementioned influential kitchens but really has its own distinct, gentle voice. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bleidorn currently leads off with a series of snacks that definitely give that impactful punch in one-to-two bites. First comes a ceviche-like edible still-life of tiny Pacific scallop from Washington state with its own salted liver, nestled into a glass dish with apricot vinegar, Douglas fir oil and ice plant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://youtu.be/1GnkB7ecwS4\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128352\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0779-new.jpg\" alt=\"Pacific scallops, salted liver, apricot vinegar, ice plant\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128352\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0779-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0779-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0779-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0779-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0779-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0779-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0779-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0779-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0779-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0779-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0779-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pacific scallops, salted liver, apricot vinegar, ice plant \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Then diners move onto what is sure to be a menu staple for it elegantly abstract take on a pub grub classic: fish and chips. There are no mushy peas here nor is there greasy batter-fried fish. Instead, imagine if Jiro the celebrated Tokyo sushi chef did a pop-up in Dublin. A glistening slab of halibut is served atop a puffy pomme soufflé (similar to the gol guppa street snacks of India) with tartar sauce. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128350\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0801-new.jpg\" alt=\"Fish & chips\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128350\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0801-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0801-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0801-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0801-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0801-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0801-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0801-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0801-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0801-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0801-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0801-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fish & chips \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>More and more tasting menu destinations are becoming fans of taking a common central ingredient and presenting several diminutive bites that show that ingredient in completely different versions. Matthew Kammerer, another former Saison chef and now Executive Chef at the spectacular Harbor House Inn in Elk (Mendocino County) takes this to another level by providing preview canapés made of the meal’s featured produce before diners even officially start the meal. Bleidorn doesn’t quite go that far but he does serve a trio of creek-raised trout tastes served simultaneously.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128347\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0861-new.jpg\" alt=\"A trio of creek-raised trout tastes served simultaneously.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128347\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0861-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0861-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0861-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0861-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0861-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0861-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0861-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0861-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0861-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0861-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0861-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A trio of creek-raised trout tastes served simultaneously. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Cured trout is warmed and smoked in cedar, and hidden in a cedar package for serving at the table with a Douglas fir branch flourish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128349\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0817-new.jpg\" alt=\"Creek raised trout - cured, smoked, and warmed in cedar\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128349\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0817-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0817-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0817-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0817-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0817-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0817-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0817-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0817-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0817-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0817-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0817-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Creek raised trout - cured, smoked, and warmed in cedar \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Trout roe comes as a sandwich with a mayonnaise-like creation accented by sour grasses and horseradish. What’s the bread for this two-bite spicy-briny flavor rush? You got it — crispy trout skin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://youtu.be/TGEwhg1I6-c\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128332\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0807-new.jpg\" alt=\"Creek raised trout - sandwich\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128332\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0807-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0807-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0807-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0807-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0807-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0807-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0807-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0807-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0807-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0807-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0807-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Creek raised trout - sandwich \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The trout treats trio concludes with an ensemble of belly meat scraped off the bones, a custard then made from the dried trout bones, and salted mustard leaves and stems. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128334\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0843-new.jpg\" alt=\"Creek raised trout - custard\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128334\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0843-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0843-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0843-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0843-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0843-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0843-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0843-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0843-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0843-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0843-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0843-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Creek raised trout - custard \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Is that enough trout for you? We haven’t seen the eyes, tail or cheeks used yet, but we’re not doubting that those are on the horizon to fully utilize the fish as is so central to Birdsong’s mission. Chef de cuisine Brian Limoges (previously at Quince and Atelier Crenn) showed us how to cut into one of the large trout they had just received and admitted that they’re still figuring out a way to use the fish’s guts. Hey, maybe it will turn out to be a delicacy and be an aquatic version of sweetbreads?\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128342\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0988-new.jpg\" alt=\"Chef de cuisine Brian Limoges prepping a large trout\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128342\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0988-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0988-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0988-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0988-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0988-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0988-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0988-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0988-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0988-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0988-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0988-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef de cuisine Brian Limoges prepping a large trout \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The water motif continues in the next course with Washington state geoduck clams joined by lardo, celery and smoked potatoes in a bowl, then tied together by a complex clam and buttermilk whey broth poured tableside. If this sounds like an abstract San Juan Islands clam chowder, you’re not imagining things. Bleidorn is from Hingham, Massachusetts (along the Atlantic between Boston and Plymouth) and this dish is obviously a nod to his home state. And, if you’re wondering, yes he is still a passionate fan of the Red Sox and Patriots — Boston teams and a love of chowdah never leave New England natives even when they’re on the West Coast. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128310\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6028-new.jpg\" alt=\"Giant clam, buttermilk whey, pork fat\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128310\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6028-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6028-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6028-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6028-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6028-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6028-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6028-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6028-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6028-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6028-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6028-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Giant clam, buttermilk whey, pork fat \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Cedar, halibut, geoduck clams...are you sensing a theme? It probably doesn’t occur to you at first because Bleidorn doesn’t hit diners over the head with a relentless focus on the Alaska-Oregon-Washington-British Columbia theme. Much of the pre-opening press has centered on Birdsong being a “Pacific Northwest” restaurant, which is semi-correct and semi-incorrect. The Bay Area has only seen one Pacific Northwest cuisine in recent memory, \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfgate.com/food/eatup/article/Cafe-Eugene-puts-Pacific-Northwest-on-the-menu-7257818.php\">Café Eugene\u003c/a> in Albany. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It lasted two years and never really found its stride being “Pacific Northwest” focused. Though we see New England, Southern, Texan and New York-inspired restaurants open all the time, Bay Area diners seemed puzzled by a Pacific Northwest concept in the East Bay — despite the fact that some of the best restaurants and raw ingredients in the country can be found in Seattle, Portland, Oregon, and across that rain and forest-filled region.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bleidorn didn’t choose the Pacific Northwest for the sake of being different or because he absolutely loves watching “Portlandia” or climbing Mount Rainier. He didn’t do a lot of on-the-ground research other than a few days of tasting around Alaska. To him, the region is “The New England of the West Coast” in terms of an unwavering respect for seasonal ingredients (we’re pretty sure that’s the definition of Californian cuisine, right?) and a magnificent terrain composed of breathtaking mountains, streams, oceans and forests. After all, both regions have a Portland. We could go on all day about geoduck clams and Ipswich clams; Bend and Sugarloaf; Seahawks and Patriots; Mount Rainier and Mount Washington; Alaskan halibut and Maine lobster; and whether these comparisons are truly similar or different. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What Bleindorn really means by their similarity, beyond being northern corners of the country, is that both have a strong sense of place and they do indeed have a lot of shared natural traits. Both areas can be considered the New World equivalent of Scandinavia — austere in winter, magnificent in summer, but always home to a dramatic natural ecosystem that leans heavily towards the sea and mist-filled forests. So, Wisconsin doesn’t fit here.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We shouldn’t feel compelled to put strict labels on any talented chef’s cuisine but the best way to think of what Bleidorn is doing is “West Coast” because we are in California, after all, and something like “rustic, nature-minded and advanced technique” because you can see the high-level methods that Alinea and Benu might incorporate into plates but there’s also a low and slow, whole animal and produce mindset that is a trend stemming from a range of concepts from Chez Panisse to Texas BBQ to New England clambakes. Outside of Saison and now, \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/126767/avery-opens-on-fillmore-as-sfs-next-elaborate-tasting-menu-destination\">Avery\u003c/a>, we haven’t seen much of that rugged “rustic and nature-minded” mentality creep into the intricate tasting menu sphere. Add Birdsong to that burgeoning group.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Birdsong uses big “once upon a time” buzzwords like “ancient cooking” and “heritage cooking” to describe this not very describable cuisine. Those terms make Birdsong sound like the restaurant is cooking wooly mammoth over driftwood with a backdrop of enormous glaciers. The most apt description comes from a quote by nature writer Michael Frome that Bleidorn likes to refer to: “Each succeeding generation accepts less and less of the real thing because it has no way of understanding what has been lost.” This is true in the history of food and across the board for society whether you want to rail about dating apps, smart phones, Teslas, chain stores, and pretty much everything Silicon Valley is trying to disrupt in every cultural space. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Bleidorn, the key is “to slow down the watered down approach” that has crept into the kitchen and much of life. But, he’ll also point out that it’s not the fault of chefs — this is how society evolves. It’s just that evolution can strip away the in-depth flavor of fantastic ingredients provided without touch by nature centuries ago. He’s correct about that. It’s virtually impossible to recapture that but it’s possible to take away some of that evolution and gimmicky technology.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://youtu.be/wtyul09ulfw\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Look at the vast, shimmering open kitchen (too open in Bleidorn’s opinion but that can’t be changed with the space’s design) of Birdsong and diners will see that this dining experience really is all about a pristine, transparent style of cooking that keeps modernism outside on Mission Street. The Chef-Partner and his determined crew of chefs strive for a powerful tasting menu without relying on the tech-enhanced wow factor of foams, gels and basically anything that El Bulli or Nathan Myhrvold’s Modernist Cuisine would preach. There is the same punch after punch across the tasting menu but in a more soft-spoken, birds chirping manner.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128308\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6002-new.jpg\" alt=\"Stuffing morel mushrooms\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2880\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128308\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6002-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6002-new-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6002-new-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6002-new-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6002-new-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6002-new-1180x1770.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6002-new-960x1440.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6002-new-240x360.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6002-new-375x563.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6002-new-520x780.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Stuffing morel mushrooms \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The next dish incorporates a Pacific Northwest staple, morel mushrooms, and stuffs them with spring lamb, then teams the morels with a sauce made of alliums and charcoal that is partially “ancient” campfire and partially Soul Cycle. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128344\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0933-new.jpg\" alt=\"Morel mushroom, Sonoma lamb, green almonds, allium charcoal sauce\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128344\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0933-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0933-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0933-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0933-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0933-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0933-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0933-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0933-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0933-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0933-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0933-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Morel mushroom, Sonoma lamb, green almonds, allium charcoal sauce \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Bleidorn’s final savory course in the preview menu centers on wild boar two-ways. One comes with grilled brassicas, grains, dried fruit and cultured broth. The other is BBQ-inspired with elderberries (another very Pacific Northwest ingredient), ramps and pine needle.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As much as we’ve harped on the streams and oceans influencing Birdsong — if you just looked at the downstairs meat locker next to the restaurant’s two below ground private dining rooms, you would think that this is a carnivore’s paradise à la Alfred’s or House of Prime Rib. Bleidorn is fanatical about sourcing whole, grass-fed animals and actually prefers older, leaner ones — the opposite of most chefs. He could talk all day about the buffalo, lamb, mutton and duck hanging in the chilly room. It’s a fascinating philosophy for a meat program and equally interesting to look at. Let’s just say you know a restaurant cares about its glassed-in meat room when there are custom teal tiles in it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128398\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0766-new.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Chris Bleidorn talks about the various cuts of meat in the glassed-in meat cooler.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128398\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0766-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0766-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0766-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0766-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0766-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0766-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0766-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0766-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0766-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0766-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0766-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Chris Bleidorn talks about the various cuts of meat in the glassed-in meat cooler. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Dessert presently is caramelized bread custard with jasmine and toasted milk. Make sure to keep an eye on this finale and the desserts in the future at Birdsong because Bleidorn wasn’t just a sous chef star on the savory side. Indeed, after graduating from Johnson and Whales, the esteemed culinary institution in Rhode Island, he spent five years as a sous chef at Nine-Ten in La Jolla (a rare example of a great restaurant in a seaside resort in a touristy town) and served as a chef de partie for the vaunted Alinea in Chicago. But then from 2010-2013, Bleidorn was the pastry chef for Corey Lee at Benu. Afterwards, he swapped pastries for savory again as Atelier Crenn’s Chef de Cuisine and then as a chef at Saison.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was at Benu where Bleidorn met Aarti Shetty, a UC Berkeley Haas School of Business graduate and former healthcare industry analyst who pulled a career 180 and shifted gears to become Director of Operations for Corey Lee’s restaurants (Benu, In Situ, Monsieur Benjamin). She is a Partner for Birdsong...and also Bleidorn’s life partner. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The management team also includes Bianca Ishikawa (Gary Danko) as Service Manager and Freddy Foot (also from Gary Danko) as Head Sommelier. While the food definitely has a little-to-medium amount of the Pacific Northwest theme going on, the region’s voice is really emphasized by Foot’s beverage list. Oregon’s highly regarded Crux and Pelican breweries are part of the beers on tap. Several Willamette Valley, Oregon wineries (Stoller, J Christopher, etc…) and Columbia Valley, Washington labels (Januik, Gramercy) appear on the by-the-glass and bottle lists. Without question, this is the most Oregon-Washington wine friendly program in the city, but that’s also not saying much because there really isn’t any competition. Take this as a great opportunity to study a completely different terroir and style of wine than you’ll find in California. Oregon Pinot Noir and Chardonnay and Washington Cabernet Sauvignon, for example, are nothing like their counterparts in Sonoma and Napa respectively. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Birdsong’s design by the Los Angeles and Washington D.C.-based SAINT firm is meant to feel homey and does indeed have the sought-after “hygge” (a snug, comforting feeling) feel of Scandinavia. However, it also is one heck of an elaborate, fairy tale living room and kitchen, just like how Bar Crenn is supposedly “a living room” but not like any real living room you’ve been to in San Francisco.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128325\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6196-new.jpg\" alt=\"Birdsong upstairs interior\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128325\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6196-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6196-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6196-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6196-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6196-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6196-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6196-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6196-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6196-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6196-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6196-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Birdsong upstairs interior \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>With tall ceilings and lots of windows, the space has a free, airy feel and no shortage of sunlight. A stack of wood by the front window allows additional natural light in but blocks out the “scenery” of Mission Street outside. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128362\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5717-new.jpg\" alt=\"The front area of Birdsong with display of glassware\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128362\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5717-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5717-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5717-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5717-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5717-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5717-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5717-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5717-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5717-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5717-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5717-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The front area of Birdsong with display of glassware \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As you’d expect in a restaurant that looks towards the forest, wood plays a huge part everywhere. Table tops are made of ash and floors come courtesy of Douglas firs. A 10-seat chef’s counter has jagged ends to its expansive wooden block and exposed bark that make the table look as if wind and rain shaped it. Not only is it the most visually intriguing table in the house, it’s also the best seat in the house, looking straight into the kitchen like you might at a sushi bar. That open kitchen and its hearth are indeed the room’s focal point, designed by industry rock star Alec Bauer, who is also responsible for many of San Francisco’s most gorgeous kitchens like State Bird Provisions and Quince. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128316\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6106-new.jpg\" alt=\"The open kitchen \" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128316\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6106-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6106-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6106-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6106-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6106-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6106-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6106-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6106-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6106-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6106-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6106-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The open kitchen \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The other seating is along a brick-exposed wall with tables placed between two long, tufted turquoise couches and stylish leather seats. All in all, the dining room can seat 34 guests. The street level space is book-ended by a pair of gorgeous design components — a salon-like sitting area by the telephone booth-evoking glass-enclosed entrance and a windy staircase to the private dining areas (and the meat) in the rear.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128305\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5954-new.jpg\" alt=\"Staircase to downstairs dining area, exposed meat cooler and kitchen\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128305\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5954-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5954-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5954-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5954-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5954-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5954-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5954-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5954-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5954-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5954-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5954-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Staircase to downstairs dining area, exposed meat cooler and kitchen \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128301\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5906-new.jpg\" alt=\"Downstairs dining area\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128301\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5906-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5906-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5906-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5906-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5906-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5906-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5906-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5906-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5906-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5906-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5906-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Downstairs dining area \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128365\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5919-new-1.jpg\" alt=\"The downstairs kitchen\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128365\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5919-new-1.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5919-new-1-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5919-new-1-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5919-new-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5919-new-1-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5919-new-1-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5919-new-1-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5919-new-1-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5919-new-1-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5919-new-1-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5919-new-1-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The downstairs kitchen \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Let’s also give a big shout out to the details in the design, like the handsome plateware that is the result of a collaboration between Bleidorn and a Korean ceramics maker who specializes in ancient pottery. The plates and glassware are seriously beautiful creations. Also, don’t miss the bubble lamps dangling from the ceiling that provide diners with limited lighting and elevate the romance factor significantly.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128409\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6093-new.jpg\" alt=\"Glassware on display at Birdsong.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128409\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6093-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6093-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6093-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6093-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6093-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6093-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6093-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6093-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6093-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6093-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6093-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Glassware on display at Birdsong. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Finally, let’s talk about “the tempo” in this song. Things are indeed fast and furious in this neighborhood and the whole topic of SoMa/Mid-Market restaurants is definitely the elephant in the room. Birdsong’s predecessor in the space was AQ, a universally applauded casual yet high-end restaurant that closed unexpectedly at the beginning of 2017. AQ was a pretty profound concept, changing its menu and décor in tune with the changing seasons quarterly. It really took “seasonal cooking” more seriously than practically any other restaurant in the country. Seasons were a literal theme. It worked in the early years and was a sign that things were changing in a neighborhood better known for homeless and drugs. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you spend much time in San Francisco, you’re aware how clearly that latter duo hasn’t changed much, even if politicians want you to think they have. Less than two years ago, AQ’s owners had three restaurants in this area (Fenix was two doors away from AQ and Bon Marché was in the Twitter Building). All three closed despite positive critical responses and general public reviews. Other promising restaurants like Oro, Volta and Cadence (this writer liked it, at least) closed shortly after opening during the same 2015-2016 time frame. AQ pointed to rising costs and customers unwilling to pay them as the reason the restaurant closed. It’s hard to imagine the neighborhood didn’t play a part in at least some, if not all of these closures. Even former Mayor Willie Brown wrote about how a homeless person harassed him outside AQ prior to a dinner there.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But, alas, times change. The building boom in this area is hard not to notice. Birdsong has some great daytime next door neighbors with The Board (sandwiches/breakfast) and Saint Frank Coffee. Things are looking up in the neighborhood and Birdsong’s arrival will hopefully continue this new trend of optimism. You can hear the birds chirping on Mission Street.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128330\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0728-new.jpg\" alt=\"Birdsong exterior\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128330\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0728-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0728-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0728-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0728-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0728-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0728-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0728-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0728-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0728-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0728-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0728-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Birdsong exterior \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.birdsongsf.com/\">\u003cstrong>Birdsong\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/Birdsong/@37.7793932,-122.4125847,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808580837c6f0b4f:0x8b8b97cdd11ec11c!8m2!3d37.779389!4d-122.410396\">1085 Mission Street\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94103\u003cbr>\nPh: (415) 369-9161\u003cbr>\nHours: Dinner Tuesday-Thursday, 5pm-8:30pm; Friday-Saturday, 5pm-9:30pm\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/Birdsong-SF-367695363752308/\">Birdsong\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nInstagram: \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/birdsong_sf/?hl=en\">@Birdsong_sf\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nPrice Range: $$$$\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Husband-and-wife couple Chris Bleidorn and Aarti Shetty make their ambitious debut as restaurant owners — with hints of the serene Pacific Northwest — in a stunning SoMa dining room at Birdsong.",
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"description": "Husband-and-wife couple Chris Bleidorn and Aarti Shetty make their ambitious debut as restaurant owners — with hints of the serene Pacific Northwest — in a stunning SoMa dining room at Birdsong.",
"title": "Birdsong Provides a Fine Dining High Note for SoMa | KQED",
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"headline": "Birdsong Provides a Fine Dining High Note for SoMa",
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"nprByline": "\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/author/trevorfelch\">Trevor Felch\u003c/a> (writer), \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/author/wendy-goodfriend\">Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/a> (photos/video)",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cem>Husband-and-wife couple Chris Bleidorn and Aarti Shetty make their ambitious debut as restaurant owners — with hints of the serene Pacific Northwest — in a stunning SoMa dining room at Birdsong\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like the structure of a great song, there are all sorts of compelling supporting components that let the journey ebb and flow then crescendo towards the all-important main chorus at SoMa’s high-end seasonal California meets Pacific Northwest newcomer, Birdsong.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The menu (the lyrics) is somewhat inspired by our neighbors to the north along the Pacific Coast, somewhat inspired by our local terroir, and heavily inspired by the chef’s highly impressive World’s 50 Best and Michelin star-filled fine dining background.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128339\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1025-new.jpg\" alt=\"The menu\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128339\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1025-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1025-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1025-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1025-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1025-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1025-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1025-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1025-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1025-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1025-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1025-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The menu \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The restaurant is springing for a duel tasting menu and à la carte format (the rhythm) that can be pulled off, but sure is daunting for the kitchen to do.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The breathtakingly gorgeous space (the background harmonies) could be a living room set-up for a cover spread in a chic magazine like Monocle.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128359\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6144-new.jpg\" alt=\"The entryway to Birdsong\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128359\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6144-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6144-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6144-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6144-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6144-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6144-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6144-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6144-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6144-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6144-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6144-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The entryway to Birdsong \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128326\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6197-new.jpg\" alt=\"Birdsong interior space with open kitchen and counter areas\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128326\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6197-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6197-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6197-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6197-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6197-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6197-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6197-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6197-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6197-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6197-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6197-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Birdsong interior space with open kitchen and counter areas \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The Mid-Market/SoMa border location at this particular place and time (the tempo) in San Francisco is pretty much front and center for everything that is being debated by this year’s mayoral candidates, and has a history of being unfriendly to friendly restaurants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And all of these storylines build towards the chorus — the heart of why Birdsong has been one of the most anticipated restaurant openings in the city for months and is here for diners to venture to Mission Street to experience firsthand. No, Birdsong isn’t about tail-to-beak whole poultry cooking, a Grateful Dead song, a mid-20th century British novel, or somebody’s deep involvement with the Audubon Society. Birdsong is a pleasant reference to the beauty of nature and how birds help ecosystems grow and stay healthy, setting a mentality for diners as they step into a restaurant that wants to slow down cooking and bring it back to its roaring fire and pristine ingredients past. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That background sets the stage for the true reason (the chorus) of why Birdsong is a pivotal restaurant for the Bay Area and national restaurant watchers to know about: it’s the solo debut of one of the (or possibly THE) most under-the-radar, ready for the bright lights chefs in California.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128338\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0979-new.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Chris Bleidorn in the downstairs meat locker.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128338\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0979-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0979-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0979-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0979-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0979-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0979-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0979-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0979-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0979-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0979-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0979-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Chris Bleidorn in the downstairs meat locker. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Chances are you don’t know Chris Bleidorn. But it’s very likely you know a lot of the stops on his resume. Alinea. Benu. Saison. Atelier Crenn. Johnson and Wales. This isn’t meant to be a LinkedIn entry for the chef but it’s vital to mention this because Bleidorn clearly has the background to make an impact straight out of the gates with Birdsong. It’s the culinary equivalent of a B.A. at Stanford, a Rhodes Scholar at Oxford and a Ph.D from Harvard. He’s ready for prime time and the Bay Area’s dining scene is ready for him.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bleidorn is opening with a preview eight-course, $135 tasting menu. Soon, that will expand to 12-13 courses for $168 plus à la carte options. The à la carte dishes will be configured differently and there will be little to no overlap (unlike at another newcomer trying the same thing, \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/127083/pop-up-to-permanent-sorrel-hits-prime-time-with-a-full-time-presidio-heights-home\">Sorrel\u003c/a>). As Bleidorn told us, tasting menu dishes are smaller and need to be “impactful” and “the first sip [or] the first bite needs to resonate.” À la carte dishes have to be stretched out more and not go for an immediate “punch.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, we’ll have to wait a little longer to find out what those à la carte dishes look like. For now, though, we definitely have a good sense of his cooking style that shows subtle influences from his prior stints at those aforementioned influential kitchens but really has its own distinct, gentle voice. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bleidorn currently leads off with a series of snacks that definitely give that impactful punch in one-to-two bites. First comes a ceviche-like edible still-life of tiny Pacific scallop from Washington state with its own salted liver, nestled into a glass dish with apricot vinegar, Douglas fir oil and ice plant.\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/1GnkB7ecwS4'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/1GnkB7ecwS4'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128352\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0779-new.jpg\" alt=\"Pacific scallops, salted liver, apricot vinegar, ice plant\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128352\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0779-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0779-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0779-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0779-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0779-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0779-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0779-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0779-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0779-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0779-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0779-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pacific scallops, salted liver, apricot vinegar, ice plant \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Then diners move onto what is sure to be a menu staple for it elegantly abstract take on a pub grub classic: fish and chips. There are no mushy peas here nor is there greasy batter-fried fish. Instead, imagine if Jiro the celebrated Tokyo sushi chef did a pop-up in Dublin. A glistening slab of halibut is served atop a puffy pomme soufflé (similar to the gol guppa street snacks of India) with tartar sauce. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128350\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0801-new.jpg\" alt=\"Fish & chips\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128350\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0801-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0801-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0801-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0801-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0801-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0801-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0801-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0801-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0801-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0801-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0801-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fish & chips \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>More and more tasting menu destinations are becoming fans of taking a common central ingredient and presenting several diminutive bites that show that ingredient in completely different versions. Matthew Kammerer, another former Saison chef and now Executive Chef at the spectacular Harbor House Inn in Elk (Mendocino County) takes this to another level by providing preview canapés made of the meal’s featured produce before diners even officially start the meal. Bleidorn doesn’t quite go that far but he does serve a trio of creek-raised trout tastes served simultaneously.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128347\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0861-new.jpg\" alt=\"A trio of creek-raised trout tastes served simultaneously.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128347\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0861-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0861-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0861-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0861-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0861-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0861-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0861-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0861-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0861-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0861-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0861-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A trio of creek-raised trout tastes served simultaneously. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Cured trout is warmed and smoked in cedar, and hidden in a cedar package for serving at the table with a Douglas fir branch flourish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128349\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0817-new.jpg\" alt=\"Creek raised trout - cured, smoked, and warmed in cedar\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128349\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0817-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0817-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0817-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0817-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0817-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0817-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0817-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0817-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0817-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0817-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0817-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Creek raised trout - cured, smoked, and warmed in cedar \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Trout roe comes as a sandwich with a mayonnaise-like creation accented by sour grasses and horseradish. What’s the bread for this two-bite spicy-briny flavor rush? You got it — crispy trout skin.\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/TGEwhg1I6-c'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/TGEwhg1I6-c'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128332\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0807-new.jpg\" alt=\"Creek raised trout - sandwich\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128332\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0807-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0807-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0807-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0807-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0807-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0807-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0807-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0807-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0807-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0807-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0807-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Creek raised trout - sandwich \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The trout treats trio concludes with an ensemble of belly meat scraped off the bones, a custard then made from the dried trout bones, and salted mustard leaves and stems. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128334\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0843-new.jpg\" alt=\"Creek raised trout - custard\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128334\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0843-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0843-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0843-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0843-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0843-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0843-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0843-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0843-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0843-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0843-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0843-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Creek raised trout - custard \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Is that enough trout for you? We haven’t seen the eyes, tail or cheeks used yet, but we’re not doubting that those are on the horizon to fully utilize the fish as is so central to Birdsong’s mission. Chef de cuisine Brian Limoges (previously at Quince and Atelier Crenn) showed us how to cut into one of the large trout they had just received and admitted that they’re still figuring out a way to use the fish’s guts. Hey, maybe it will turn out to be a delicacy and be an aquatic version of sweetbreads?\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128342\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0988-new.jpg\" alt=\"Chef de cuisine Brian Limoges prepping a large trout\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128342\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0988-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0988-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0988-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0988-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0988-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0988-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0988-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0988-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0988-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0988-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0988-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef de cuisine Brian Limoges prepping a large trout \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The water motif continues in the next course with Washington state geoduck clams joined by lardo, celery and smoked potatoes in a bowl, then tied together by a complex clam and buttermilk whey broth poured tableside. If this sounds like an abstract San Juan Islands clam chowder, you’re not imagining things. Bleidorn is from Hingham, Massachusetts (along the Atlantic between Boston and Plymouth) and this dish is obviously a nod to his home state. And, if you’re wondering, yes he is still a passionate fan of the Red Sox and Patriots — Boston teams and a love of chowdah never leave New England natives even when they’re on the West Coast. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128310\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6028-new.jpg\" alt=\"Giant clam, buttermilk whey, pork fat\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128310\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6028-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6028-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6028-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6028-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6028-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6028-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6028-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6028-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6028-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6028-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6028-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Giant clam, buttermilk whey, pork fat \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Cedar, halibut, geoduck clams...are you sensing a theme? It probably doesn’t occur to you at first because Bleidorn doesn’t hit diners over the head with a relentless focus on the Alaska-Oregon-Washington-British Columbia theme. Much of the pre-opening press has centered on Birdsong being a “Pacific Northwest” restaurant, which is semi-correct and semi-incorrect. The Bay Area has only seen one Pacific Northwest cuisine in recent memory, \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfgate.com/food/eatup/article/Cafe-Eugene-puts-Pacific-Northwest-on-the-menu-7257818.php\">Café Eugene\u003c/a> in Albany. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It lasted two years and never really found its stride being “Pacific Northwest” focused. Though we see New England, Southern, Texan and New York-inspired restaurants open all the time, Bay Area diners seemed puzzled by a Pacific Northwest concept in the East Bay — despite the fact that some of the best restaurants and raw ingredients in the country can be found in Seattle, Portland, Oregon, and across that rain and forest-filled region.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bleidorn didn’t choose the Pacific Northwest for the sake of being different or because he absolutely loves watching “Portlandia” or climbing Mount Rainier. He didn’t do a lot of on-the-ground research other than a few days of tasting around Alaska. To him, the region is “The New England of the West Coast” in terms of an unwavering respect for seasonal ingredients (we’re pretty sure that’s the definition of Californian cuisine, right?) and a magnificent terrain composed of breathtaking mountains, streams, oceans and forests. After all, both regions have a Portland. We could go on all day about geoduck clams and Ipswich clams; Bend and Sugarloaf; Seahawks and Patriots; Mount Rainier and Mount Washington; Alaskan halibut and Maine lobster; and whether these comparisons are truly similar or different. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What Bleindorn really means by their similarity, beyond being northern corners of the country, is that both have a strong sense of place and they do indeed have a lot of shared natural traits. Both areas can be considered the New World equivalent of Scandinavia — austere in winter, magnificent in summer, but always home to a dramatic natural ecosystem that leans heavily towards the sea and mist-filled forests. So, Wisconsin doesn’t fit here.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We shouldn’t feel compelled to put strict labels on any talented chef’s cuisine but the best way to think of what Bleidorn is doing is “West Coast” because we are in California, after all, and something like “rustic, nature-minded and advanced technique” because you can see the high-level methods that Alinea and Benu might incorporate into plates but there’s also a low and slow, whole animal and produce mindset that is a trend stemming from a range of concepts from Chez Panisse to Texas BBQ to New England clambakes. Outside of Saison and now, \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/126767/avery-opens-on-fillmore-as-sfs-next-elaborate-tasting-menu-destination\">Avery\u003c/a>, we haven’t seen much of that rugged “rustic and nature-minded” mentality creep into the intricate tasting menu sphere. Add Birdsong to that burgeoning group.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Birdsong uses big “once upon a time” buzzwords like “ancient cooking” and “heritage cooking” to describe this not very describable cuisine. Those terms make Birdsong sound like the restaurant is cooking wooly mammoth over driftwood with a backdrop of enormous glaciers. The most apt description comes from a quote by nature writer Michael Frome that Bleidorn likes to refer to: “Each succeeding generation accepts less and less of the real thing because it has no way of understanding what has been lost.” This is true in the history of food and across the board for society whether you want to rail about dating apps, smart phones, Teslas, chain stores, and pretty much everything Silicon Valley is trying to disrupt in every cultural space. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Bleidorn, the key is “to slow down the watered down approach” that has crept into the kitchen and much of life. But, he’ll also point out that it’s not the fault of chefs — this is how society evolves. It’s just that evolution can strip away the in-depth flavor of fantastic ingredients provided without touch by nature centuries ago. He’s correct about that. It’s virtually impossible to recapture that but it’s possible to take away some of that evolution and gimmicky technology.\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/wtyul09ulfw'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/wtyul09ulfw'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cp>Look at the vast, shimmering open kitchen (too open in Bleidorn’s opinion but that can’t be changed with the space’s design) of Birdsong and diners will see that this dining experience really is all about a pristine, transparent style of cooking that keeps modernism outside on Mission Street. The Chef-Partner and his determined crew of chefs strive for a powerful tasting menu without relying on the tech-enhanced wow factor of foams, gels and basically anything that El Bulli or Nathan Myhrvold’s Modernist Cuisine would preach. There is the same punch after punch across the tasting menu but in a more soft-spoken, birds chirping manner.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128308\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6002-new.jpg\" alt=\"Stuffing morel mushrooms\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2880\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128308\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6002-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6002-new-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6002-new-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6002-new-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6002-new-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6002-new-1180x1770.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6002-new-960x1440.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6002-new-240x360.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6002-new-375x563.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6002-new-520x780.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Stuffing morel mushrooms \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The next dish incorporates a Pacific Northwest staple, morel mushrooms, and stuffs them with spring lamb, then teams the morels with a sauce made of alliums and charcoal that is partially “ancient” campfire and partially Soul Cycle. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128344\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0933-new.jpg\" alt=\"Morel mushroom, Sonoma lamb, green almonds, allium charcoal sauce\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128344\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0933-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0933-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0933-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0933-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0933-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0933-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0933-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0933-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0933-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0933-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0933-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Morel mushroom, Sonoma lamb, green almonds, allium charcoal sauce \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Bleidorn’s final savory course in the preview menu centers on wild boar two-ways. One comes with grilled brassicas, grains, dried fruit and cultured broth. The other is BBQ-inspired with elderberries (another very Pacific Northwest ingredient), ramps and pine needle.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As much as we’ve harped on the streams and oceans influencing Birdsong — if you just looked at the downstairs meat locker next to the restaurant’s two below ground private dining rooms, you would think that this is a carnivore’s paradise à la Alfred’s or House of Prime Rib. Bleidorn is fanatical about sourcing whole, grass-fed animals and actually prefers older, leaner ones — the opposite of most chefs. He could talk all day about the buffalo, lamb, mutton and duck hanging in the chilly room. It’s a fascinating philosophy for a meat program and equally interesting to look at. Let’s just say you know a restaurant cares about its glassed-in meat room when there are custom teal tiles in it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128398\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0766-new.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Chris Bleidorn talks about the various cuts of meat in the glassed-in meat cooler.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128398\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0766-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0766-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0766-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0766-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0766-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0766-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0766-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0766-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0766-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0766-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0766-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Chris Bleidorn talks about the various cuts of meat in the glassed-in meat cooler. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Dessert presently is caramelized bread custard with jasmine and toasted milk. Make sure to keep an eye on this finale and the desserts in the future at Birdsong because Bleidorn wasn’t just a sous chef star on the savory side. Indeed, after graduating from Johnson and Whales, the esteemed culinary institution in Rhode Island, he spent five years as a sous chef at Nine-Ten in La Jolla (a rare example of a great restaurant in a seaside resort in a touristy town) and served as a chef de partie for the vaunted Alinea in Chicago. But then from 2010-2013, Bleidorn was the pastry chef for Corey Lee at Benu. Afterwards, he swapped pastries for savory again as Atelier Crenn’s Chef de Cuisine and then as a chef at Saison.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was at Benu where Bleidorn met Aarti Shetty, a UC Berkeley Haas School of Business graduate and former healthcare industry analyst who pulled a career 180 and shifted gears to become Director of Operations for Corey Lee’s restaurants (Benu, In Situ, Monsieur Benjamin). She is a Partner for Birdsong...and also Bleidorn’s life partner. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The management team also includes Bianca Ishikawa (Gary Danko) as Service Manager and Freddy Foot (also from Gary Danko) as Head Sommelier. While the food definitely has a little-to-medium amount of the Pacific Northwest theme going on, the region’s voice is really emphasized by Foot’s beverage list. Oregon’s highly regarded Crux and Pelican breweries are part of the beers on tap. Several Willamette Valley, Oregon wineries (Stoller, J Christopher, etc…) and Columbia Valley, Washington labels (Januik, Gramercy) appear on the by-the-glass and bottle lists. Without question, this is the most Oregon-Washington wine friendly program in the city, but that’s also not saying much because there really isn’t any competition. Take this as a great opportunity to study a completely different terroir and style of wine than you’ll find in California. Oregon Pinot Noir and Chardonnay and Washington Cabernet Sauvignon, for example, are nothing like their counterparts in Sonoma and Napa respectively. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Birdsong’s design by the Los Angeles and Washington D.C.-based SAINT firm is meant to feel homey and does indeed have the sought-after “hygge” (a snug, comforting feeling) feel of Scandinavia. However, it also is one heck of an elaborate, fairy tale living room and kitchen, just like how Bar Crenn is supposedly “a living room” but not like any real living room you’ve been to in San Francisco.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128325\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6196-new.jpg\" alt=\"Birdsong upstairs interior\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128325\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6196-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6196-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6196-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6196-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6196-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6196-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6196-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6196-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6196-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6196-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6196-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Birdsong upstairs interior \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>With tall ceilings and lots of windows, the space has a free, airy feel and no shortage of sunlight. A stack of wood by the front window allows additional natural light in but blocks out the “scenery” of Mission Street outside. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128362\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5717-new.jpg\" alt=\"The front area of Birdsong with display of glassware\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128362\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5717-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5717-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5717-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5717-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5717-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5717-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5717-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5717-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5717-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5717-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5717-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The front area of Birdsong with display of glassware \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As you’d expect in a restaurant that looks towards the forest, wood plays a huge part everywhere. Table tops are made of ash and floors come courtesy of Douglas firs. A 10-seat chef’s counter has jagged ends to its expansive wooden block and exposed bark that make the table look as if wind and rain shaped it. Not only is it the most visually intriguing table in the house, it’s also the best seat in the house, looking straight into the kitchen like you might at a sushi bar. That open kitchen and its hearth are indeed the room’s focal point, designed by industry rock star Alec Bauer, who is also responsible for many of San Francisco’s most gorgeous kitchens like State Bird Provisions and Quince. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128316\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6106-new.jpg\" alt=\"The open kitchen \" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128316\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6106-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6106-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6106-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6106-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6106-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6106-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6106-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6106-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6106-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6106-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6106-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The open kitchen \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The other seating is along a brick-exposed wall with tables placed between two long, tufted turquoise couches and stylish leather seats. All in all, the dining room can seat 34 guests. The street level space is book-ended by a pair of gorgeous design components — a salon-like sitting area by the telephone booth-evoking glass-enclosed entrance and a windy staircase to the private dining areas (and the meat) in the rear.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128305\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5954-new.jpg\" alt=\"Staircase to downstairs dining area, exposed meat cooler and kitchen\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128305\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5954-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5954-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5954-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5954-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5954-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5954-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5954-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5954-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5954-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5954-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5954-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Staircase to downstairs dining area, exposed meat cooler and kitchen \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128301\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5906-new.jpg\" alt=\"Downstairs dining area\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128301\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5906-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5906-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5906-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5906-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5906-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5906-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5906-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5906-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5906-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5906-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5906-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Downstairs dining area \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128365\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5919-new-1.jpg\" alt=\"The downstairs kitchen\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128365\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5919-new-1.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5919-new-1-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5919-new-1-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5919-new-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5919-new-1-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5919-new-1-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5919-new-1-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5919-new-1-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5919-new-1-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5919-new-1-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5919-new-1-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The downstairs kitchen \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Let’s also give a big shout out to the details in the design, like the handsome plateware that is the result of a collaboration between Bleidorn and a Korean ceramics maker who specializes in ancient pottery. The plates and glassware are seriously beautiful creations. Also, don’t miss the bubble lamps dangling from the ceiling that provide diners with limited lighting and elevate the romance factor significantly.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128409\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6093-new.jpg\" alt=\"Glassware on display at Birdsong.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128409\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6093-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6093-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6093-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6093-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6093-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6093-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6093-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6093-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6093-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6093-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6093-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Glassware on display at Birdsong. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Finally, let’s talk about “the tempo” in this song. Things are indeed fast and furious in this neighborhood and the whole topic of SoMa/Mid-Market restaurants is definitely the elephant in the room. Birdsong’s predecessor in the space was AQ, a universally applauded casual yet high-end restaurant that closed unexpectedly at the beginning of 2017. AQ was a pretty profound concept, changing its menu and décor in tune with the changing seasons quarterly. It really took “seasonal cooking” more seriously than practically any other restaurant in the country. Seasons were a literal theme. It worked in the early years and was a sign that things were changing in a neighborhood better known for homeless and drugs. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you spend much time in San Francisco, you’re aware how clearly that latter duo hasn’t changed much, even if politicians want you to think they have. Less than two years ago, AQ’s owners had three restaurants in this area (Fenix was two doors away from AQ and Bon Marché was in the Twitter Building). All three closed despite positive critical responses and general public reviews. Other promising restaurants like Oro, Volta and Cadence (this writer liked it, at least) closed shortly after opening during the same 2015-2016 time frame. AQ pointed to rising costs and customers unwilling to pay them as the reason the restaurant closed. It’s hard to imagine the neighborhood didn’t play a part in at least some, if not all of these closures. Even former Mayor Willie Brown wrote about how a homeless person harassed him outside AQ prior to a dinner there.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But, alas, times change. The building boom in this area is hard not to notice. Birdsong has some great daytime next door neighbors with The Board (sandwiches/breakfast) and Saint Frank Coffee. Things are looking up in the neighborhood and Birdsong’s arrival will hopefully continue this new trend of optimism. You can hear the birds chirping on Mission Street.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128330\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0728-new.jpg\" alt=\"Birdsong exterior\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128330\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0728-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0728-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0728-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0728-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0728-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0728-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0728-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0728-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0728-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0728-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0728-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Birdsong exterior \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.birdsongsf.com/\">\u003cstrong>Birdsong\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/Birdsong/@37.7793932,-122.4125847,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808580837c6f0b4f:0x8b8b97cdd11ec11c!8m2!3d37.779389!4d-122.410396\">1085 Mission Street\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94103\u003cbr>\nPh: (415) 369-9161\u003cbr>\nHours: Dinner Tuesday-Thursday, 5pm-8:30pm; Friday-Saturday, 5pm-9:30pm\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/Birdsong-SF-367695363752308/\">Birdsong\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nInstagram: \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/birdsong_sf/?hl=en\">@Birdsong_sf\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nPrice Range: $$$$\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "6 Sonoma County Restaurants to Try Right Now",
"title": "6 Sonoma County Restaurants to Try Right Now",
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"content": "\u003cp>We’re definitely spoiled for choice when it comes to good restaurants and interesting food options in Wine Country. From an Old World-inspired modern bistro in Windsor to a small Santa Rosa breakfast-and-lunch spot where everything is made from scratch, we’ve rounded up a tasty selection to put on your “must-try” list for spring and summer dining. \u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Tisza Bistro, Windsor\u003c/h2>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128060\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1280px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/HI1117_TISZABISTRO_KALE_854452.jpg\" alt=\"Kale salad with pomegranate, Parmesan, wine-soaked currants and walnut vinaigrette at Tisza Bistro in Windsor.\" width=\"1280\" height=\"853\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128060\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/HI1117_TISZABISTRO_KALE_854452.jpg 1280w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/HI1117_TISZABISTRO_KALE_854452-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/HI1117_TISZABISTRO_KALE_854452-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/HI1117_TISZABISTRO_KALE_854452-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/HI1117_TISZABISTRO_KALE_854452-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/HI1117_TISZABISTRO_KALE_854452-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/HI1117_TISZABISTRO_KALE_854452-1180x786.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/HI1117_TISZABISTRO_KALE_854452-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/HI1117_TISZABISTRO_KALE_854452-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/HI1117_TISZABISTRO_KALE_854452-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/HI1117_TISZABISTRO_KALE_854452-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1280px) 100vw, 1280px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Kale salad with pomegranate, Parmesan, wine-soaked currants and walnut vinaigrette at Tisza Bistro in Windsor. \u003ccite>(Heather Irwin)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Chef Krisztian Karkus isn’t sure if he wants everyone to know how good his wiener schnitzel is. He has a special recipe, sure, and it’s pan-fried in butter and pork lard with fresh lingonberry jam and homemade cucumber salad. But he isn’t a German chef, he says in a heavy Hungarian accent — and he doesn’t want his new restaurant, Tisza Bistro in Windsor, to be pigeon-holed as an ethnic dining experience.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Trouble is, he already has fans coming in weekly for a plate of the breadcrumb-topped veal. It’s just that good, which anything cooked in pork lard tends to be.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The restaurant has gained quick momentum with a mix of Old World comfort food (with lots of roasting) and fresh, California-inspired ingredients that make for an intriguing menu ranging from brown-butter artichokes with tarragon and lemon aioli (not lemon and mayonnaise, he specifies), duck confit with brandied cherries, spaetzle mac and cheese, and smoked bratwurst and braised sauerkraut.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Not a single dish misses the mark. Not one.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Food has to taste good first,” Karkus says, “and look good second.” He’s achieved both, with perfectly cooked greens and beans, clever touches like balsamic “pearls” (a molecular gastronomy technique) that aren’t overly precious, deeply flavorful infusions of spices and herbs, and perfectly crisp salmon and duck skin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tisza is named after a meandering Hungarian river and its menu is awash in a love for the flavors of Sonoma County and Eastern Europe. Plus, the schnitzel ain’t bad.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Especially worth a try is the roasted Castroville artichoke with tarragon brown butter and preserved lemon ($10) — a huge artichoke bathed in nutty butter with creamy lemon aioli. We’re never quite sure about the proper way to eat an artichoke, but you’ll find the meatiest bits on the bigger petals, though we’d rather just spoon the aioli into our mouths when it comes right down to it. There’s no getting around the calories here, but it’s intensely worth sharing around the table.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And as for that wiener schnitzel ($23), this version has no relationship to a sad piece of dry pork dropped in a deep-fat fryer — which is the sibling of chicken-fried steak, something no one should eat willingly. Instead, this dish of veal is rolled in bread crumbs and fried in butter and pork fat. Add a squeeze of lemon, and life suddenly seems a lot better.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lamb can be a tough sell, but Tisza’s braised lamb shoulder ($26), a long-cooked cut, is tender and beefy. It’s served with Bohemian yeast dumplings, which are a bit like steamed bao, a sticky sort of dough ball whose only purpose is to soak up au jus. Similarly, there are so many ways preserved duck leg can go wrong —they’re either greasy or fatty, and often a bit gray inside, with a rubbery skin. But with his roasted Liberty Farm duck confit ($18), Karkus again gets a super- crispy skin (“I love it to be crispy,” he says) by searing off the deep red meat. Brandied cherries are, well, the cherry on the confit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Finally, the undersell of the menu is the rolled crepe with walnut cream ($6). It’s a treasured Hungarian dessert called palatschinke, and Karkus notes that the soft, papery crepe puts any French buckwheat imposter to shame. “You should be able to eat it like this,” he mimes, pressing his lips together. No teeth needed. Rolled instead of folded into a triangle, palatschinke is filled with a walnut cream surrounded by rum raisins (boozy fruit is a popular theme) and swooshes of real chocolate ganache. Nutella be damned.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tisza Bistro is open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. 8757 Old Redwood Highway, Windsor, 707-838-5100, \u003ca href=\"http://tiszabistro.com/\">tiszabistro.com\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Duke’s Common, Healdsburg\u003c/h2>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128057\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1280px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/HI0218_DUKESCOMMON_FULLTABLE_867877.jpg\" alt=\"Snacks and sticks from Duke’s Common in Healdsburg.\" width=\"1280\" height=\"853\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128057\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/HI0218_DUKESCOMMON_FULLTABLE_867877.jpg 1280w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/HI0218_DUKESCOMMON_FULLTABLE_867877-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/HI0218_DUKESCOMMON_FULLTABLE_867877-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/HI0218_DUKESCOMMON_FULLTABLE_867877-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/HI0218_DUKESCOMMON_FULLTABLE_867877-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/HI0218_DUKESCOMMON_FULLTABLE_867877-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/HI0218_DUKESCOMMON_FULLTABLE_867877-1180x786.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/HI0218_DUKESCOMMON_FULLTABLE_867877-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/HI0218_DUKESCOMMON_FULLTABLE_867877-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/HI0218_DUKESCOMMON_FULLTABLE_867877-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/HI0218_DUKESCOMMON_FULLTABLE_867877-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1280px) 100vw, 1280px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Snacks and sticks from Duke’s Common in Healdsburg. \u003ccite>(Heather Irwin)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Bridging the gap between front of house and back of house, restaurant, or bar, lofty versus unpretentious, Duke’s Common in Healdsburg is the halfway point — literally and figuratively — between the classic American cafe dining of Brass Rabbit (109 Plaza St.) and unfiltered farm-to-table booziness of Duke’s Spirited Cocktails (111 Plaza St.).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Housed in the former Scopa space, the Common is an eat and drink spot where everyone’s welcome (something not always easy to find in the ’Burg) — with 30-somethings balancing toddlers on their hips while sipping Prosecco, the pre-dinner crowd can grab a quick nibble and glass of wine, and after-hours revelers can stuff down some Disco Fries before boogieing home to bed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Keeping in that unruffled spirit of hale and hearty bites like fries doused with gravy and tubs of shrimp and grits, it’s clear to see that Duke’s Common doesn’t take itself the least bit seriously. There’s a brief but eclectic lineup of things on skewers (mushrooms, chicken, corn dogs), small bites like the insanely popular McChicken sandwich, and slightly larger bites that include slices of pizza for $4 or a burrito stuffed with falafel, along with cocktails, wine, and beer. We ordered just about the entire menu for under $100, much to our surprise.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Duke’s Common has arrived in the right place at the right time — a place for all of us to gather, whether we’re plastic dish or white tablecloth kinds of diners. Nothing on the menu is more than $10. Don’t miss the Maple Bacon Donut ($3), which is actually more of a mapleglazed beignet. Big flavors make up for the tiny size. Recommended: Catch all bacon and glaze crumbs into waxed paper, then upturn into your open mouth. Refuse to acknowledge you just did that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>109A Plaza St., Healdsburg, 707-431-1105, \u003ca href=\"https://www.dukescommon.com/\">dukescommon.com\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>What A Chicken! Petaluma\u003c/h2>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128061\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/whatachicken_plate_overhead-1024x751.jpg\" alt=\"Petaluma BBQ spot features barbecue chicken, ribs, fresh salsas and tortillas.\" width=\"1024\" height=\"751\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128061\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/whatachicken_plate_overhead-1024x751.jpg 1024w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/whatachicken_plate_overhead-1024x751-160x117.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/whatachicken_plate_overhead-1024x751-800x587.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/whatachicken_plate_overhead-1024x751-768x563.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/whatachicken_plate_overhead-1024x751-1020x748.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/whatachicken_plate_overhead-1024x751-960x704.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/whatachicken_plate_overhead-1024x751-240x176.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/whatachicken_plate_overhead-1024x751-375x275.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/whatachicken_plate_overhead-1024x751-520x381.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Petaluma BBQ spot features barbecue chicken, ribs, fresh salsas and tortillas. \u003ccite>(Heather Irwin)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Petaluma is going gonzo for What A Chicken!, a budget-friendly barbecue spot, which specializes in — you guessed it — chicken.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You’ll smell it before you see it, with a massive grill perfuming the entire block with mesquite smoke and grilling chicken. Prepare to drool a little. Once you’ve passed through the mist of sizzling poultry, it’s an order-at-the- counter affair. Choose from mixed-grill plates, as well as tacos, fall-off-the-bone ribs, and so-so-sides like potato salad, coleslaw, and Spanish rice. Instead, get the freshly made corn tortillas and spend some time at the salsa bar. There’s usually a line, so you’ll have time to ponder the menu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We found the chicken to be wonderfully flavored, but a bit dry. Doused with fiery pineapple salsa and wrapped in a warm tortilla, it’s easier to see why folks are so impressed. That and the prices: You’ll get a two-item, two-side plate and a drink for $7, hearty tacos are $3, and burritos around $7 as well. Super plus: A selection of icy aguas frescas are delightfully cool and sweet, taking some of the bite out of the spicier salsas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/what-a-chicken-petaluma\">What A Chicken!\u003c/a>: 708 E. Washington St., Petaluma, 510-776-7615. \u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>The Grove Cafe, Santa Rosa\u003c/h2>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128055\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/grove_1_sm-1024x751.jpg\" alt=\"Grove Cafe in the Redwood Credit Union headquarters in Santa Rosa.\" width=\"1024\" height=\"751\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128055\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/grove_1_sm-1024x751.jpg 1024w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/grove_1_sm-1024x751-160x117.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/grove_1_sm-1024x751-800x587.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/grove_1_sm-1024x751-768x563.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/grove_1_sm-1024x751-1020x748.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/grove_1_sm-1024x751-960x704.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/grove_1_sm-1024x751-240x176.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/grove_1_sm-1024x751-375x275.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/grove_1_sm-1024x751-520x381.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Grove Cafe in the Redwood Credit Union headquarters in Santa Rosa. \u003ccite>(Heather Irwin)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>It’s time for a little lunchtime dignity at the office. So long to sad brown paper sacks, desiccated Lean Cuisines warmed up in a dirty microwave, and worst of all, whatever stinky thing you had for dinner last night that’s making us all retch at our desks. I make it a practice to publicly humiliate anyone with the chutzpah to bring a steaming plate of fish stew, garlic curry, or god forbid, tuna salad near my workstation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That’s why I’m convinced that Redwood Credit Union’s new Grove Cafe is the future of the office lunch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Simple daily menus are placed near the entrance to the bright, modern space and include dishes like blackened chicken flatbread with sweet corn and red onion ($6), roast cauliflower and pear soup ($3.50), Korean barbecue chicken in lettuce cups ($8), a grilled veggie sandwich with sun-dried tomato pesto and goat cheese ($6), fresh beet salad with arugula ($6.75), made-to-order sandwiches, and burritos (all under $9).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are no servers or waitstaff. Instead, diners simply pick a dish or two on the touchscreen monitor, pay with a credit card and sit down. Minutes later, your number is called and your order ready for pickup at the counter. No muss, no fuss, no lost time when your lunch hour is ticking quickly by.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While the cafe isn’t locally owned or Michelin-starred (it is part of international food service conglomerate Compass Group, which operates cafes and food services for businesses, schools, and hospitals, including Bon Appetit Management and Wolfgang Puck Catering), the simple idea is efficient, inexpensive, and what office drones (myself included) could really use on days when simply putting food in our faces is something of a luxury.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/grove-cafe-santa-rosa\">Grove Cafe\u003c/a>: Open Monday-Friday. Breakfast, 8:30-10 a.m.; lunch, 11:30 a.m-1:30 p.m.; snacks, 1:30-3 p.m. 3033 Cleveland Ave., Santa Rosa \u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Zoftig, Santa Rosa\u003c/h2>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128058\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1280px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/HI0218_ZOFTIFG_PHILLY_867887.jpg\" alt=\"Philly sandwich with fried chicken breast, provolone, oven roasted tomatoes and broccoli rabe.\" width=\"1280\" height=\"853\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128058\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/HI0218_ZOFTIFG_PHILLY_867887.jpg 1280w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/HI0218_ZOFTIFG_PHILLY_867887-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/HI0218_ZOFTIFG_PHILLY_867887-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/HI0218_ZOFTIFG_PHILLY_867887-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/HI0218_ZOFTIFG_PHILLY_867887-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/HI0218_ZOFTIFG_PHILLY_867887-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/HI0218_ZOFTIFG_PHILLY_867887-1180x786.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/HI0218_ZOFTIFG_PHILLY_867887-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/HI0218_ZOFTIFG_PHILLY_867887-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/HI0218_ZOFTIFG_PHILLY_867887-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/HI0218_ZOFTIFG_PHILLY_867887-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1280px) 100vw, 1280px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Philly sandwich with fried chicken breast, provolone, oven roasted tomatoes and broccoli rabe. \u003ccite>(Heather Irwin)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Former owners of Calistoga’s acclaimed JoLe restaurant have brought their talents to Santa Rosa with a breakfast and lunch spot that’s truly zoftig.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“My grandmother always said live life with zoftig,” said co-owner Matt Spector. A Holocaust survivor, she often used the Yiddish term that roughly translates as “fullness” that comes with being well-fed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Focused on simple yet well-made sandwiches, salads, and bowls, the concept doesn’t sound particularly fascinating at first pass. Until you realize that Matt makes everything from scratch — from the roasted chicken and Diestel turkey to oven-roasted tomatoes, and fresh porchetta for his own take on a Vietnamese banh mi.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s a grab-and-go lunchtime spot near downtown Santa Rosa that’s far better than it actually needs to be, featuring bread from their next-door neighbors at Goguette, fresh chicories, kale from FEED Sonoma, and salad add-ins including paprika roasted cauliflower, goat Gouda, and grilled Crimini mushrooms. Must-tries include the roasted chicken ($11.50) and the banh mi ($12).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>57 Montgomery Drive, Santa Rosa, 707-738-3558, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/zoftigeatery/\">instagram.com/zoftigeatery\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Cascabel, Santa Rosa\u003c/h2>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128056\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1280px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/HI0118_CASCABEL_CHIPS_867892.jpg\" alt=\"Tamarind cocktail, chips and salsa trio at Cascabel Mexican restaurant and grill in Santa Rosa.\" width=\"1280\" height=\"960\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128056\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/HI0118_CASCABEL_CHIPS_867892.jpg 1280w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/HI0118_CASCABEL_CHIPS_867892-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/HI0118_CASCABEL_CHIPS_867892-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/HI0118_CASCABEL_CHIPS_867892-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/HI0118_CASCABEL_CHIPS_867892-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/HI0118_CASCABEL_CHIPS_867892-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/HI0118_CASCABEL_CHIPS_867892-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/HI0118_CASCABEL_CHIPS_867892-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/HI0118_CASCABEL_CHIPS_867892-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/HI0118_CASCABEL_CHIPS_867892-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/HI0118_CASCABEL_CHIPS_867892-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1280px) 100vw, 1280px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tamarind cocktail, chips and salsa trio at Cascabel Mexican restaurant and grill in Santa Rosa. \u003ccite>(Heather Irwin)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>It’s hard not to get enthusiastic about Cascabel, the newest addition to Santa Rosa’s Montgomery Village restaurant lineup. We found several menu standouts at this casual tequila bar and grill, including a sweet-and-savory Oaxacan mole, meltingly soft barbacoa, spicy shrimp ceviche, and homey arroz con leche.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the barbacoa pancakes ($10), Cascabel uses a low-temp sous vide technique to slowcook meats overnight, then a pan fry to caramelize and crisp. In the case of barbacoa, the sweet shredded beef is butter-soft, but propped up with an intense mole sauce that commands respect. Piled atop a soft potato latke with crema and red onion, it’s a menu favorite. Also worth a try are the chicken tinga enchiladas with mole poblano ($13) and the Cocoyoc salad ($13). With achiote-marinated chicken, pineapple relish, red onion, toasted pumpkin seeds, and a pumpkin seed-serrano chile vinaigrette, the Cocoyoc is a lighter way to enjoy the intense flavors of Cascabel in a calorically virtuous way.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>909 Village Court, Santa Rosa, 707-521-9444, \u003ca href=\"http://cascabelbayarea.com/santa-rosa/\">cascabelbayarea.com/santa-rosa\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This article was originally published on\u003c/em> \u003ca href=\"http://www.sonomamag.com/sonoma-county-restaurants-to-try-right-now-may-june-2018/\">\u003cem>Sonoma Magazine\u003c/em>\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "From an Old World-inspired modern bistro in Windsor to a small Santa Rosa breakfast-and-lunch spot where everything is made from scratch, we’ve rounded up a tasty selection to put on your “must-try” list for spring and summer dining. ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>We’re definitely spoiled for choice when it comes to good restaurants and interesting food options in Wine Country. From an Old World-inspired modern bistro in Windsor to a small Santa Rosa breakfast-and-lunch spot where everything is made from scratch, we’ve rounded up a tasty selection to put on your “must-try” list for spring and summer dining. \u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Tisza Bistro, Windsor\u003c/h2>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128060\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1280px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/HI1117_TISZABISTRO_KALE_854452.jpg\" alt=\"Kale salad with pomegranate, Parmesan, wine-soaked currants and walnut vinaigrette at Tisza Bistro in Windsor.\" width=\"1280\" height=\"853\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128060\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/HI1117_TISZABISTRO_KALE_854452.jpg 1280w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/HI1117_TISZABISTRO_KALE_854452-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/HI1117_TISZABISTRO_KALE_854452-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/HI1117_TISZABISTRO_KALE_854452-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/HI1117_TISZABISTRO_KALE_854452-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/HI1117_TISZABISTRO_KALE_854452-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/HI1117_TISZABISTRO_KALE_854452-1180x786.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/HI1117_TISZABISTRO_KALE_854452-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/HI1117_TISZABISTRO_KALE_854452-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/HI1117_TISZABISTRO_KALE_854452-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/HI1117_TISZABISTRO_KALE_854452-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1280px) 100vw, 1280px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Kale salad with pomegranate, Parmesan, wine-soaked currants and walnut vinaigrette at Tisza Bistro in Windsor. \u003ccite>(Heather Irwin)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Chef Krisztian Karkus isn’t sure if he wants everyone to know how good his wiener schnitzel is. He has a special recipe, sure, and it’s pan-fried in butter and pork lard with fresh lingonberry jam and homemade cucumber salad. But he isn’t a German chef, he says in a heavy Hungarian accent — and he doesn’t want his new restaurant, Tisza Bistro in Windsor, to be pigeon-holed as an ethnic dining experience.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Trouble is, he already has fans coming in weekly for a plate of the breadcrumb-topped veal. It’s just that good, which anything cooked in pork lard tends to be.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The restaurant has gained quick momentum with a mix of Old World comfort food (with lots of roasting) and fresh, California-inspired ingredients that make for an intriguing menu ranging from brown-butter artichokes with tarragon and lemon aioli (not lemon and mayonnaise, he specifies), duck confit with brandied cherries, spaetzle mac and cheese, and smoked bratwurst and braised sauerkraut.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Not a single dish misses the mark. Not one.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Food has to taste good first,” Karkus says, “and look good second.” He’s achieved both, with perfectly cooked greens and beans, clever touches like balsamic “pearls” (a molecular gastronomy technique) that aren’t overly precious, deeply flavorful infusions of spices and herbs, and perfectly crisp salmon and duck skin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tisza is named after a meandering Hungarian river and its menu is awash in a love for the flavors of Sonoma County and Eastern Europe. Plus, the schnitzel ain’t bad.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Especially worth a try is the roasted Castroville artichoke with tarragon brown butter and preserved lemon ($10) — a huge artichoke bathed in nutty butter with creamy lemon aioli. We’re never quite sure about the proper way to eat an artichoke, but you’ll find the meatiest bits on the bigger petals, though we’d rather just spoon the aioli into our mouths when it comes right down to it. There’s no getting around the calories here, but it’s intensely worth sharing around the table.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And as for that wiener schnitzel ($23), this version has no relationship to a sad piece of dry pork dropped in a deep-fat fryer — which is the sibling of chicken-fried steak, something no one should eat willingly. Instead, this dish of veal is rolled in bread crumbs and fried in butter and pork fat. Add a squeeze of lemon, and life suddenly seems a lot better.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lamb can be a tough sell, but Tisza’s braised lamb shoulder ($26), a long-cooked cut, is tender and beefy. It’s served with Bohemian yeast dumplings, which are a bit like steamed bao, a sticky sort of dough ball whose only purpose is to soak up au jus. Similarly, there are so many ways preserved duck leg can go wrong —they’re either greasy or fatty, and often a bit gray inside, with a rubbery skin. But with his roasted Liberty Farm duck confit ($18), Karkus again gets a super- crispy skin (“I love it to be crispy,” he says) by searing off the deep red meat. Brandied cherries are, well, the cherry on the confit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Finally, the undersell of the menu is the rolled crepe with walnut cream ($6). It’s a treasured Hungarian dessert called palatschinke, and Karkus notes that the soft, papery crepe puts any French buckwheat imposter to shame. “You should be able to eat it like this,” he mimes, pressing his lips together. No teeth needed. Rolled instead of folded into a triangle, palatschinke is filled with a walnut cream surrounded by rum raisins (boozy fruit is a popular theme) and swooshes of real chocolate ganache. Nutella be damned.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tisza Bistro is open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. 8757 Old Redwood Highway, Windsor, 707-838-5100, \u003ca href=\"http://tiszabistro.com/\">tiszabistro.com\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Duke’s Common, Healdsburg\u003c/h2>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128057\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1280px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/HI0218_DUKESCOMMON_FULLTABLE_867877.jpg\" alt=\"Snacks and sticks from Duke’s Common in Healdsburg.\" width=\"1280\" height=\"853\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128057\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/HI0218_DUKESCOMMON_FULLTABLE_867877.jpg 1280w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/HI0218_DUKESCOMMON_FULLTABLE_867877-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/HI0218_DUKESCOMMON_FULLTABLE_867877-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/HI0218_DUKESCOMMON_FULLTABLE_867877-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/HI0218_DUKESCOMMON_FULLTABLE_867877-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/HI0218_DUKESCOMMON_FULLTABLE_867877-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/HI0218_DUKESCOMMON_FULLTABLE_867877-1180x786.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/HI0218_DUKESCOMMON_FULLTABLE_867877-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/HI0218_DUKESCOMMON_FULLTABLE_867877-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/HI0218_DUKESCOMMON_FULLTABLE_867877-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/HI0218_DUKESCOMMON_FULLTABLE_867877-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1280px) 100vw, 1280px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Snacks and sticks from Duke’s Common in Healdsburg. \u003ccite>(Heather Irwin)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Bridging the gap between front of house and back of house, restaurant, or bar, lofty versus unpretentious, Duke’s Common in Healdsburg is the halfway point — literally and figuratively — between the classic American cafe dining of Brass Rabbit (109 Plaza St.) and unfiltered farm-to-table booziness of Duke’s Spirited Cocktails (111 Plaza St.).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Housed in the former Scopa space, the Common is an eat and drink spot where everyone’s welcome (something not always easy to find in the ’Burg) — with 30-somethings balancing toddlers on their hips while sipping Prosecco, the pre-dinner crowd can grab a quick nibble and glass of wine, and after-hours revelers can stuff down some Disco Fries before boogieing home to bed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Keeping in that unruffled spirit of hale and hearty bites like fries doused with gravy and tubs of shrimp and grits, it’s clear to see that Duke’s Common doesn’t take itself the least bit seriously. There’s a brief but eclectic lineup of things on skewers (mushrooms, chicken, corn dogs), small bites like the insanely popular McChicken sandwich, and slightly larger bites that include slices of pizza for $4 or a burrito stuffed with falafel, along with cocktails, wine, and beer. We ordered just about the entire menu for under $100, much to our surprise.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Duke’s Common has arrived in the right place at the right time — a place for all of us to gather, whether we’re plastic dish or white tablecloth kinds of diners. Nothing on the menu is more than $10. Don’t miss the Maple Bacon Donut ($3), which is actually more of a mapleglazed beignet. Big flavors make up for the tiny size. Recommended: Catch all bacon and glaze crumbs into waxed paper, then upturn into your open mouth. Refuse to acknowledge you just did that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>109A Plaza St., Healdsburg, 707-431-1105, \u003ca href=\"https://www.dukescommon.com/\">dukescommon.com\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>What A Chicken! Petaluma\u003c/h2>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128061\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/whatachicken_plate_overhead-1024x751.jpg\" alt=\"Petaluma BBQ spot features barbecue chicken, ribs, fresh salsas and tortillas.\" width=\"1024\" height=\"751\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128061\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/whatachicken_plate_overhead-1024x751.jpg 1024w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/whatachicken_plate_overhead-1024x751-160x117.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/whatachicken_plate_overhead-1024x751-800x587.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/whatachicken_plate_overhead-1024x751-768x563.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/whatachicken_plate_overhead-1024x751-1020x748.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/whatachicken_plate_overhead-1024x751-960x704.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/whatachicken_plate_overhead-1024x751-240x176.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/whatachicken_plate_overhead-1024x751-375x275.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/whatachicken_plate_overhead-1024x751-520x381.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Petaluma BBQ spot features barbecue chicken, ribs, fresh salsas and tortillas. \u003ccite>(Heather Irwin)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Petaluma is going gonzo for What A Chicken!, a budget-friendly barbecue spot, which specializes in — you guessed it — chicken.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You’ll smell it before you see it, with a massive grill perfuming the entire block with mesquite smoke and grilling chicken. Prepare to drool a little. Once you’ve passed through the mist of sizzling poultry, it’s an order-at-the- counter affair. Choose from mixed-grill plates, as well as tacos, fall-off-the-bone ribs, and so-so-sides like potato salad, coleslaw, and Spanish rice. Instead, get the freshly made corn tortillas and spend some time at the salsa bar. There’s usually a line, so you’ll have time to ponder the menu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We found the chicken to be wonderfully flavored, but a bit dry. Doused with fiery pineapple salsa and wrapped in a warm tortilla, it’s easier to see why folks are so impressed. That and the prices: You’ll get a two-item, two-side plate and a drink for $7, hearty tacos are $3, and burritos around $7 as well. Super plus: A selection of icy aguas frescas are delightfully cool and sweet, taking some of the bite out of the spicier salsas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/what-a-chicken-petaluma\">What A Chicken!\u003c/a>: 708 E. Washington St., Petaluma, 510-776-7615. \u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>The Grove Cafe, Santa Rosa\u003c/h2>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128055\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/grove_1_sm-1024x751.jpg\" alt=\"Grove Cafe in the Redwood Credit Union headquarters in Santa Rosa.\" width=\"1024\" height=\"751\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128055\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/grove_1_sm-1024x751.jpg 1024w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/grove_1_sm-1024x751-160x117.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/grove_1_sm-1024x751-800x587.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/grove_1_sm-1024x751-768x563.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/grove_1_sm-1024x751-1020x748.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/grove_1_sm-1024x751-960x704.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/grove_1_sm-1024x751-240x176.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/grove_1_sm-1024x751-375x275.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/grove_1_sm-1024x751-520x381.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Grove Cafe in the Redwood Credit Union headquarters in Santa Rosa. \u003ccite>(Heather Irwin)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>It’s time for a little lunchtime dignity at the office. So long to sad brown paper sacks, desiccated Lean Cuisines warmed up in a dirty microwave, and worst of all, whatever stinky thing you had for dinner last night that’s making us all retch at our desks. I make it a practice to publicly humiliate anyone with the chutzpah to bring a steaming plate of fish stew, garlic curry, or god forbid, tuna salad near my workstation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That’s why I’m convinced that Redwood Credit Union’s new Grove Cafe is the future of the office lunch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Simple daily menus are placed near the entrance to the bright, modern space and include dishes like blackened chicken flatbread with sweet corn and red onion ($6), roast cauliflower and pear soup ($3.50), Korean barbecue chicken in lettuce cups ($8), a grilled veggie sandwich with sun-dried tomato pesto and goat cheese ($6), fresh beet salad with arugula ($6.75), made-to-order sandwiches, and burritos (all under $9).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are no servers or waitstaff. Instead, diners simply pick a dish or two on the touchscreen monitor, pay with a credit card and sit down. Minutes later, your number is called and your order ready for pickup at the counter. No muss, no fuss, no lost time when your lunch hour is ticking quickly by.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While the cafe isn’t locally owned or Michelin-starred (it is part of international food service conglomerate Compass Group, which operates cafes and food services for businesses, schools, and hospitals, including Bon Appetit Management and Wolfgang Puck Catering), the simple idea is efficient, inexpensive, and what office drones (myself included) could really use on days when simply putting food in our faces is something of a luxury.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/grove-cafe-santa-rosa\">Grove Cafe\u003c/a>: Open Monday-Friday. Breakfast, 8:30-10 a.m.; lunch, 11:30 a.m-1:30 p.m.; snacks, 1:30-3 p.m. 3033 Cleveland Ave., Santa Rosa \u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Zoftig, Santa Rosa\u003c/h2>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128058\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1280px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/HI0218_ZOFTIFG_PHILLY_867887.jpg\" alt=\"Philly sandwich with fried chicken breast, provolone, oven roasted tomatoes and broccoli rabe.\" width=\"1280\" height=\"853\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128058\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/HI0218_ZOFTIFG_PHILLY_867887.jpg 1280w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/HI0218_ZOFTIFG_PHILLY_867887-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/HI0218_ZOFTIFG_PHILLY_867887-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/HI0218_ZOFTIFG_PHILLY_867887-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/HI0218_ZOFTIFG_PHILLY_867887-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/HI0218_ZOFTIFG_PHILLY_867887-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/HI0218_ZOFTIFG_PHILLY_867887-1180x786.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/HI0218_ZOFTIFG_PHILLY_867887-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/HI0218_ZOFTIFG_PHILLY_867887-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/HI0218_ZOFTIFG_PHILLY_867887-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/HI0218_ZOFTIFG_PHILLY_867887-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1280px) 100vw, 1280px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Philly sandwich with fried chicken breast, provolone, oven roasted tomatoes and broccoli rabe. \u003ccite>(Heather Irwin)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Former owners of Calistoga’s acclaimed JoLe restaurant have brought their talents to Santa Rosa with a breakfast and lunch spot that’s truly zoftig.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“My grandmother always said live life with zoftig,” said co-owner Matt Spector. A Holocaust survivor, she often used the Yiddish term that roughly translates as “fullness” that comes with being well-fed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Focused on simple yet well-made sandwiches, salads, and bowls, the concept doesn’t sound particularly fascinating at first pass. Until you realize that Matt makes everything from scratch — from the roasted chicken and Diestel turkey to oven-roasted tomatoes, and fresh porchetta for his own take on a Vietnamese banh mi.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s a grab-and-go lunchtime spot near downtown Santa Rosa that’s far better than it actually needs to be, featuring bread from their next-door neighbors at Goguette, fresh chicories, kale from FEED Sonoma, and salad add-ins including paprika roasted cauliflower, goat Gouda, and grilled Crimini mushrooms. Must-tries include the roasted chicken ($11.50) and the banh mi ($12).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>57 Montgomery Drive, Santa Rosa, 707-738-3558, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/zoftigeatery/\">instagram.com/zoftigeatery\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Cascabel, Santa Rosa\u003c/h2>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128056\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1280px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/HI0118_CASCABEL_CHIPS_867892.jpg\" alt=\"Tamarind cocktail, chips and salsa trio at Cascabel Mexican restaurant and grill in Santa Rosa.\" width=\"1280\" height=\"960\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128056\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/HI0118_CASCABEL_CHIPS_867892.jpg 1280w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/HI0118_CASCABEL_CHIPS_867892-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/HI0118_CASCABEL_CHIPS_867892-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/HI0118_CASCABEL_CHIPS_867892-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/HI0118_CASCABEL_CHIPS_867892-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/HI0118_CASCABEL_CHIPS_867892-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/HI0118_CASCABEL_CHIPS_867892-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/HI0118_CASCABEL_CHIPS_867892-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/HI0118_CASCABEL_CHIPS_867892-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/HI0118_CASCABEL_CHIPS_867892-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/HI0118_CASCABEL_CHIPS_867892-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1280px) 100vw, 1280px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tamarind cocktail, chips and salsa trio at Cascabel Mexican restaurant and grill in Santa Rosa. \u003ccite>(Heather Irwin)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>It’s hard not to get enthusiastic about Cascabel, the newest addition to Santa Rosa’s Montgomery Village restaurant lineup. We found several menu standouts at this casual tequila bar and grill, including a sweet-and-savory Oaxacan mole, meltingly soft barbacoa, spicy shrimp ceviche, and homey arroz con leche.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the barbacoa pancakes ($10), Cascabel uses a low-temp sous vide technique to slowcook meats overnight, then a pan fry to caramelize and crisp. In the case of barbacoa, the sweet shredded beef is butter-soft, but propped up with an intense mole sauce that commands respect. Piled atop a soft potato latke with crema and red onion, it’s a menu favorite. Also worth a try are the chicken tinga enchiladas with mole poblano ($13) and the Cocoyoc salad ($13). With achiote-marinated chicken, pineapple relish, red onion, toasted pumpkin seeds, and a pumpkin seed-serrano chile vinaigrette, the Cocoyoc is a lighter way to enjoy the intense flavors of Cascabel in a calorically virtuous way.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>909 Village Court, Santa Rosa, 707-521-9444, \u003ca href=\"http://cascabelbayarea.com/santa-rosa/\">cascabelbayarea.com/santa-rosa\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This article was originally published on\u003c/em> \u003ca href=\"http://www.sonomamag.com/sonoma-county-restaurants-to-try-right-now-may-june-2018/\">\u003cem>Sonoma Magazine\u003c/em>\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Guide: Take a Deep Dive into 6 New Bay Area Restaurants",
"title": "Guide: Take a Deep Dive into 6 New Bay Area Restaurants",
"headTitle": "New Restaurants 2018 | Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>Recently, there's been an amazing number of new restaurants springing up in the Bay Area. To celebrate the season we visited five spots in San Francisco and one in Berkeley to explore the food, drink, and story behind these culinary destinations. The intention of these deep dives is to give you a visual and informational taste of what these restaurants have to offer. Enjoy!\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126231\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/126313/che-fico-opens-on-divisadero-cool-figs-wood-fired-chicken-and-hot-pizza\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1998-new.jpg\" alt=\"Chef/Co-Owner David Nayfeld holding Marinara, Anchovy, Arugula Pizze at Che Fico\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126231\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1998-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1998-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1998-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1998-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1998-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1998-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1998-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1998-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1998-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1998-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef/Co-Owner David Nayfeld holding Marinara, Anchovy, Arugula Pizze at Che Fico \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/126313/che-fico-opens-on-divisadero-cool-figs-wood-fired-chicken-and-hot-pizza\">Che Fico Opens on Divisadero — Cool Figs, Wood-Fired Chicken and Hot Pizza\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nFour years in the making, a trio of alums from some of Chicago and New York’s most important restaurants arrive on Divisadero with a chic, lofty Italian spot serving rustic pastas, San Francisco-style pizza, and can’t miss cocktails and desserts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127503\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/127454/buzzy-valencia-street-gets-a-swinging-60s-addition-with-the-beehives-debut\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3885-new.jpg\" alt=\"Lead Bartender Emilio Salehi showcases The Beehive cocktails (L to R): Thunderbird, Ipanema Gold, Bikini Drifter, Rising Sun\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127503\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3885-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3885-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3885-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3885-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3885-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3885-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3885-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3885-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3885-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3885-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3885-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Lead Bartender Emilio Salehi showcases The Beehive cocktails (L to R): Thunderbird, Ipanema Gold, Bikini Drifter, Rising Sun \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/127454/buzzy-valencia-street-gets-a-swinging-60s-addition-with-the-beehives-debut\">Buzzy Valencia Street Gets a Swinging 60s Addition With The Beehive’s Debut\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nThe Beehive is a groovy trip back to the 60s in the Mission’s former Range location.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127147\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/127083/pop-up-to-permanent-sorrel-hits-prime-time-with-a-full-time-presidio-heights-home\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8117-2-new.jpg\" alt=\"Striped Bass with artichoke, cauliflower, sultana, wild ramps, saffron at Sorrel\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127147\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8117-2-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8117-2-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8117-2-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8117-2-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8117-2-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8117-2-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8117-2-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8117-2-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8117-2-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8117-2-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8117-2-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sorrel's Striped Bass with artichoke, cauliflower, sultana, wild ramps, saffron \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/127083/pop-up-to-permanent-sorrel-hits-prime-time-with-a-full-time-presidio-heights-home\">Pop-up to Permanent — Sorrel Hits Prime Time With a Full-Time Presidio Heights Home\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nAfter four years of temporary homes, one of SF’s most beloved pop-ups has found a permanent home for its distinct seasonal California cooking with Italian influences.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126992\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/126982/berkeley-classic-henrys-scores-a-touchdown-with-new-teams-menu-and-design-changes\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2661-new.jpg\" alt=\"Henry's CheeseBoy on a Tartine sweet potato bun with herbed fries\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126992\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2661-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2661-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2661-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2661-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2661-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2661-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2661-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2661-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2661-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2661-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2661-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Henry's CheeseBoy on a Tartine sweet potato bun with herbed fries \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/126982/berkeley-classic-henrys-scores-a-touchdown-with-new-teams-menu-and-design-changes\">Berkeley Classic Henry’s Scores a Touchdown with New Team’s Menu and Design Changes\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nWith Chris Kronner’s exciting small plates and irresistible burgers, plus Tartine bread and cocktails from an industry star, Berkeley’s venerable pub is now a major destination beyond tailgates and happy hour.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126786\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/126767/avery-opens-on-fillmore-as-sfs-next-elaborate-tasting-menu-destination\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7732-new.jpg\" alt=\"Avery exterior\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126786\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7732-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7732-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7732-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7732-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7732-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7732-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7732-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7732-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7732-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7732-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7732-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Avery exterior \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/126767/avery-opens-on-fillmore-as-sfs-next-elaborate-tasting-menu-destination\">Avery Opens on Fillmore as SF’s Next Elaborate Tasting Menu Destination\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco’s latest tasting menu experience opens on Fillmore from a talented and artistic alum of Saison, Atelier Crenn and Benu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127803\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/127643/homework-means-celebrating-on-school-nights-with-the-dogpatchs-new-weeknights-only-bar\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0104-new.jpg\" alt=\"School Night bar\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127803\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0104-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0104-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0104-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0104-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0104-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0104-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0104-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0104-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0104-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0104-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0104-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">School Night bar \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/127643/homework-means-celebrating-on-school-nights-with-the-dogpatchs-new-weeknights-only-bar\">Homework Means Celebrating on School Nights With the Dogpatch’s New Weeknights-Only Bar\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nWith a menu designed by Traci Des Jardins and cocktails from Enrique Sanchez, School Night is an intriguing private event space and weeknights-only bar hybrid experiment in the Dogpatch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n",
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"excerpt": "Recently, there's been an amazing number of new restaurants springing up in the Bay Area. To celebrate the season we visited five spots in San Francisco and one in Berkeley to explore the food, drink, and story behind these culinary destinations. ",
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"description": "Recently, there's been an amazing number of new restaurants springing up in the Bay Area. To celebrate the season we visited five spots in San Francisco and one in Berkeley to explore the food, drink, and story behind these culinary destinations. ",
"title": "Guide: Take a Deep Dive into 6 New Bay Area Restaurants | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Recently, there's been an amazing number of new restaurants springing up in the Bay Area. To celebrate the season we visited five spots in San Francisco and one in Berkeley to explore the food, drink, and story behind these culinary destinations. The intention of these deep dives is to give you a visual and informational taste of what these restaurants have to offer. Enjoy!\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126231\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/126313/che-fico-opens-on-divisadero-cool-figs-wood-fired-chicken-and-hot-pizza\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1998-new.jpg\" alt=\"Chef/Co-Owner David Nayfeld holding Marinara, Anchovy, Arugula Pizze at Che Fico\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126231\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1998-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1998-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1998-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1998-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1998-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1998-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1998-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1998-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1998-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1998-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef/Co-Owner David Nayfeld holding Marinara, Anchovy, Arugula Pizze at Che Fico \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/126313/che-fico-opens-on-divisadero-cool-figs-wood-fired-chicken-and-hot-pizza\">Che Fico Opens on Divisadero — Cool Figs, Wood-Fired Chicken and Hot Pizza\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nFour years in the making, a trio of alums from some of Chicago and New York’s most important restaurants arrive on Divisadero with a chic, lofty Italian spot serving rustic pastas, San Francisco-style pizza, and can’t miss cocktails and desserts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127503\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/127454/buzzy-valencia-street-gets-a-swinging-60s-addition-with-the-beehives-debut\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3885-new.jpg\" alt=\"Lead Bartender Emilio Salehi showcases The Beehive cocktails (L to R): Thunderbird, Ipanema Gold, Bikini Drifter, Rising Sun\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127503\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3885-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3885-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3885-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3885-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3885-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3885-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3885-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3885-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3885-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3885-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3885-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Lead Bartender Emilio Salehi showcases The Beehive cocktails (L to R): Thunderbird, Ipanema Gold, Bikini Drifter, Rising Sun \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/127454/buzzy-valencia-street-gets-a-swinging-60s-addition-with-the-beehives-debut\">Buzzy Valencia Street Gets a Swinging 60s Addition With The Beehive’s Debut\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nThe Beehive is a groovy trip back to the 60s in the Mission’s former Range location.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127147\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/127083/pop-up-to-permanent-sorrel-hits-prime-time-with-a-full-time-presidio-heights-home\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8117-2-new.jpg\" alt=\"Striped Bass with artichoke, cauliflower, sultana, wild ramps, saffron at Sorrel\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127147\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8117-2-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8117-2-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8117-2-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8117-2-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8117-2-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8117-2-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8117-2-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8117-2-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8117-2-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8117-2-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8117-2-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sorrel's Striped Bass with artichoke, cauliflower, sultana, wild ramps, saffron \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/127083/pop-up-to-permanent-sorrel-hits-prime-time-with-a-full-time-presidio-heights-home\">Pop-up to Permanent — Sorrel Hits Prime Time With a Full-Time Presidio Heights Home\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nAfter four years of temporary homes, one of SF’s most beloved pop-ups has found a permanent home for its distinct seasonal California cooking with Italian influences.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126992\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/126982/berkeley-classic-henrys-scores-a-touchdown-with-new-teams-menu-and-design-changes\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2661-new.jpg\" alt=\"Henry's CheeseBoy on a Tartine sweet potato bun with herbed fries\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126992\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2661-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2661-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2661-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2661-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2661-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2661-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2661-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2661-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2661-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2661-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2661-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Henry's CheeseBoy on a Tartine sweet potato bun with herbed fries \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/126982/berkeley-classic-henrys-scores-a-touchdown-with-new-teams-menu-and-design-changes\">Berkeley Classic Henry’s Scores a Touchdown with New Team’s Menu and Design Changes\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nWith Chris Kronner’s exciting small plates and irresistible burgers, plus Tartine bread and cocktails from an industry star, Berkeley’s venerable pub is now a major destination beyond tailgates and happy hour.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126786\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/126767/avery-opens-on-fillmore-as-sfs-next-elaborate-tasting-menu-destination\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7732-new.jpg\" alt=\"Avery exterior\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126786\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7732-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7732-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7732-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7732-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7732-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7732-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7732-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7732-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7732-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7732-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7732-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Avery exterior \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/126767/avery-opens-on-fillmore-as-sfs-next-elaborate-tasting-menu-destination\">Avery Opens on Fillmore as SF’s Next Elaborate Tasting Menu Destination\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco’s latest tasting menu experience opens on Fillmore from a talented and artistic alum of Saison, Atelier Crenn and Benu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127803\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/127643/homework-means-celebrating-on-school-nights-with-the-dogpatchs-new-weeknights-only-bar\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0104-new.jpg\" alt=\"School Night bar\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127803\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0104-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0104-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0104-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0104-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0104-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0104-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0104-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0104-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0104-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0104-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0104-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">School Night bar \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/127643/homework-means-celebrating-on-school-nights-with-the-dogpatchs-new-weeknights-only-bar\">Homework Means Celebrating on School Nights With the Dogpatch’s New Weeknights-Only Bar\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nWith a menu designed by Traci Des Jardins and cocktails from Enrique Sanchez, School Night is an intriguing private event space and weeknights-only bar hybrid experiment in the Dogpatch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "Homework Means Celebrating on School Nights With the Dogpatch’s New Weeknights-Only Bar",
"title": "Homework Means Celebrating on School Nights With the Dogpatch’s New Weeknights-Only Bar",
"headTitle": "New Restaurants 2018 | Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cem>With a menu designed by Traci Des Jardins and cocktails from Enrique Sanchez, School Night is an Intriguing Private Event Space and Weeknights-Only Bar Hybrid Experiment in the Dogpatch\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At first glance, a bar being closed on Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights is like a Financial District coffee shop only being open on weekend evenings or a sports bar strictly serving weekday lunch. It makes you raise your eyebrows as if you’re a judge on “Shark Tank” and begs you to ask the contestant, “Are you trying to lose money with this business plan?”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dig a little deeper, however, and you’ll realize that this structure for the Dogpatch Sunday to Wednesday nights-only newcomer, School Night, is actually pretty smart, if unconventional. It may even be brilliant. In present day, start-up-centric San Francisco terms, it’s a “disruptor.” Some “disruptors” truly do disrupt normal life in a negative way and are annoying pests like all of those electric scooters on the sidewalks. Other disruptors like how the Los Angeles chef Dave Beran serves dessert bites throughout the tasting menu at his new restaurant, \u003ca href=\"https://www.dialoguerestaurant.com/\">Dialogue\u003c/a>, are initially met with heavy skepticism for being different but then win approval because they end up being a clever change-up from the status quo that nobody knew they wanted or needed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127810\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4434-new.jpg\" alt=\"Inside School Night\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127810\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4434-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4434-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4434-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4434-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4434-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4434-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4434-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4434-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4434-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4434-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4434-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Inside School Night \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>School Night is definitely the latter type of disruptor. Let’s get one thing straight about how it manages to be a restaurant and bar industry disruptor — it isn’t just a restaurant and bar. \u003ca href=\"https://www.thepearlsf.com/school-night-bar\">School Night\u003c/a> is an open to the public part of a spectacular two-year old event spaced called \u003ca href=\"https://www.thepearlsf.com/\">“The Pearl.”\u003c/a> The venue’s Co-Founder and Managing Partner, Adam Mendelson, knew that he couldn’t just open another restaurant in the traditional format when he decided to go into the hospitality business with a background in renewable energy finance (talk about an unlikely path!). Hopefully this isn’t breaking news to the dining public but it’s no secret in the restaurant industry — owning a restaurant or bar or winery or pretty much any food and beverage concept — is not going to make sustainable money. It’s even more daunting in a competitive and outrageously expensive market like this one. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127825\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4679-new-1.jpg\" alt=\"Inside The Pearl\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127825\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4679-new-1.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4679-new-1-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4679-new-1-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4679-new-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4679-new-1-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4679-new-1-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4679-new-1-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4679-new-1-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4679-new-1-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4679-new-1-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4679-new-1-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Inside The Pearl \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127802\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0169-new.jpg\" alt=\"The Pearl Co-Founder and Managing Partner, Adam Mendelson\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127802\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0169-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0169-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0169-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0169-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0169-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0169-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0169-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0169-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0169-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0169-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0169-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Pearl Co-Founder and Managing Partner, Adam Mendelson \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The Brooklyn Winery in New York’s flexible business model served as one inspiration for The Pearl, as did multi-purpose art galleries and newer hotels. That aforementioned urban winery, for example, is really a winery, event space, casual place for a few bites, and weddings destination. These are venues that serve multiple functions and attract different crowds for different time periods. They are dynamic concepts. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127880\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0077-new.jpg\" alt=\"The Pearl signage\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127880\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0077-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0077-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0077-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0077-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0077-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0077-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0077-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0077-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0077-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0077-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0077-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Pearl signage \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>School Night is enormously helped by The Pearl and The Pearl is greatly enhanced by School Night. Mendelson described the relationship to us as a “virtuous cycle” where The Pearl wouldn’t be on the radar for many Bay Area residents because private event spaces are a small and not very talked-about niche. Everyone pays attention to restaurants and bars. So, much of the public is now aware of The Pearl because of School Night. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the same time, School Night gives The Pearl another prime event space on the big nights for those (Thursday-Saturday), which makes a much more substantial amount of money than a restaurant or bar. On those four traditionally slow nights for private events, School Night is its own destination for eating and drinking the creations of one of San Francisco’s most celebrated chefs and one of San Francisco’s most talented bartenders. Besides, who goes out on weekends anymore? Isn’t Monday night the new Saturday night?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s hard to tell if this is a positive or negative result of #adulting. On one hand, you still have to wake up to work on a Tuesday morning and an 11pm third round of pisco sours might make that less fun. On the other hand, adults (non-parents, that is) don’t have to worry about calculus homework or going to soccer practice because we don’t have the dreaded “school nights” anymore.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127855\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0096-new.jpg\" alt=\"Books and signage on display at School Night\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127855\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0096-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0096-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0096-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0096-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0096-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0096-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0096-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0096-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0096-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0096-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0096-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Books and signage on display at School Night \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>For many people, this writer included, “school night” still sends shivers down our spines like how “flight delay” or “jury duty” makes you freeze and clam up. The term has negative connotations of writing essays about Faulkner at the dinner table and your parents telling you to go to sleep by 10pm even if the Giants game is only in the eighth inning. In other words, school night meant “no fun.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Luckily, we have School Night the bar to bring back the “cool” in school night. We’re so over weekends.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127818\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4612-new.jpg\" alt=\"The bar at School Night\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127818\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4612-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4612-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4612-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4612-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4612-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4612-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4612-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4612-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4612-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4612-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4612-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The bar at School Night \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>School Night is an 87-seat bar, open kitchen and dining area located next to The Pearl’s spectacular three-level space, entered from a separate door on 19th Street. The bar’s design is compelling everywhere your eye wanders. It’s worth a trip to the Dogpatch just to see the plant-themed faded prints on the three-dimensional wall fixture near the entrance. But, it’s the Latin-inspired food from Traci Des Jardins and chef de cuisine Audie Golder and the cocktails by Enrique Sanchez that really are the reason to skip the Netflix watching and yoga classes after work in favor of going out on the sleepy town.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127854\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0094-new.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0094-new.jpg\" alt=\"School Night's food menu\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127854\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0094-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0094-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0094-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0094-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0094-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0094-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0094-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0094-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0094-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0094-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0094-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">School Night's food menu \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127815\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4556-new.jpg\" alt=\"Traci Des Jardins\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2880\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127815\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4556-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4556-new-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4556-new-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4556-new-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4556-new-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4556-new-1180x1770.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4556-new-960x1440.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4556-new-240x360.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4556-new-375x563.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4556-new-520x780.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Traci Des Jardins \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The food menu is split between composed kitchen dishes and items from the kitchen’s retro red, wood-burning oven named Bertha, brought in from Portland, Oregon. Acquring Bertha from our neighbor to the north isn’t as random as it sounds. One of The Pearl’s main investors is Kurt Huffman, a powerful Portland restaurateur with his ChefStable group. Yes, that’s the connection of why Portland’s beloved pig-centric sandwich shop, \u003ca href=\"http://lardosandwiches.com/\">Lardo\u003c/a>, popped up at The Pearl at the end of April. Keep an eye on a closer Portland-San Francisco dining relationship that has, for the most part, been a distant rivalry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>From Bertha, guests can enjoy surf, turf or vegetables with baby back ribs “costillas” slathered with tomatillo barbecue sauce ($16); clams and mussels cooked by the flames and paired with angel hair pasta and aji amarillo aioli for “fideos” ($17); or blistered vegetables ($14) from Mariquita Farms, the Watsonville farm that Des Jardins works closely with. Queso fundido ($16) is a gooey mix of Oaxacan, Provola and Fontal cheeses melted by Bertha and teamed with chorizo and poblano peppers, then ready to be formed into a kind of DIY quesadilla with flour tortillas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://youtu.be/_XIHOb7OfoY\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Des Jardins nods to her mother’s and grandparents’ Mexican heritage throughout the menu at her Presidio restaurant, Arguello, and serves a classic plate of tacos al pastor ($15 for three) at School Night. Bay Area diners often cringe at the thought of eating something like duck hearts and gizzards grilled on anticucho skewers ($13), but hopefully can get past that offal mental block because they be some of the most tender and flavorful cuts of duck, beef and chicken. Another unexpected bird preparation emerging from Bertha partners fried quail leg with a moist achiote-marinated quail breast ($23), accompanied by fried plantains and a zesty onion escabeche.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127836\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0243-new.jpg\" alt=\"Wolfe Ranch quail\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127836\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0243-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0243-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0243-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0243-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0243-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0243-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0243-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0243-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0243-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0243-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0243-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Wolfe Ranch quail \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Both Bertha and kitchen dishes aren’t necessarily small plates or large plates. Think of the non-snack dishes as larger tapas that are great for sharing with a friend or enjoying on your own as a two-to-three dish dinner. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Those snacks for setting the stage of a full meal or just filling an empty belly while drinking include lime, jalapeño and coriander-dusted pepitas ($4) and housemade tortilla chips with tomatillo-chipotle and guajillo-arbol chile salsas ($6).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>From the kitchen, diners can order meat-free Impossible meatball “albondigas” one at a time ($3) and learn that the Impossible burger meat might actually excel more in meatball form with tomatillo salsa than as a patty on a bun with ketchup and mustard. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127834\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0228-new.jpg\" alt=\"Meat-free Impossible meatball\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127834\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0228-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0228-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0228-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0228-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0228-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0228-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0228-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0228-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0228-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0228-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0228-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Meat-free Impossible meatball \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>It’s not as surprising to find \u003ca href=\"https://www.impossiblefoods.com/\">Impossible\u003c/a> meatballs on this bar food menu as it might seem. Des Jardins’ Hayes Valley high-end flagship, Jardinière, was one of the first restaurants in the country to serve it as a burger (and as Impossible beef tartare!). She started her role as a culinary advisor for the Silicon Valley start-up long before it launched in restaurants a year ago. For a little perspective on the company’s growth and Des Jardins’ importance in it, Jardinière and Cockscomb (Chris Cosentino’s meat-centric, opposite of vegetarian SoMa restaurant) were two of the first three restaurants to serve the Impossible burger and now 1,000 restaurants do just over 365 days later. It’s a borderline phenomenon. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Elsewhere on the menu, instead of serving fries, the duck fat-confited fried potatoes ($12) are smashed, crisped and served with guajillo mojo and crema.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cebiche ($13) at School Night comes Peruvian-style. That means raw local halibut comes in small cubes, not heavily diced, is only briefly marinated in the lime-based leche de tigre and comes with hominy and corn nuts, instead of tortilla chips as would be done in Mexico. It’s also given the Peruvian spelling of a “b,” not “ceviche.” Sanchez learned this in high school and insists on it, just like one of his mentors (and Peru’s most influential chef), Gastón Acurio. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127838\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0208-new.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0208-new.jpg\" alt=\"Cebiche\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127838\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0208-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0208-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0208-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0208-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0208-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0208-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0208-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0208-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0208-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0208-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0208-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cebiche \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Salads are generally the last thing on most bar-goers minds but like with the little gem spears at True Laurel and the kale salad at Trick Dog, are given real respect at School Night. The Mexican chopped salad actually is a plate of little gem lettuce cups filled with jicama, cucumber, avocado and pepitas ($13). Meanwhile, the straightforward Tijuana Caesar ($13) is the answer to one of food’s great trivia questions: “Where was the Caesar invented?” Yes, Caesar’s restaurant in Tijuana’s Zona Centro.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sanchez, a native of Lima, Peru, is one of the city’s great ambassadors for that country’s spectacular cuisine and, of course, pisco. The Peruvian brandy gets its own section on the cocktail menu (all cocktails are $12), as do agave spirits and whiskey. If you’re after a daiquiri or a Negroni, don’t worry, it’s a full bar and you’ll be perfectly happy. But for Sanchez’s menu of a dozen drinks, split four per spirit category, trust the master and enjoy his witty and delicious creations. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Without question, the bar’s most Instagram-friendly drink is the Maracuyá Sour, essentially a passion fruit and cacao-pisco sour with a “school crossing” symbol stenciled onto the foamy egg white top from a Peychaud’s bitters spray. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127890\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0178-new.jpg\" alt=\"Enrique Sanchez displays the “school crossing” symbol stencil used to make the Maracuyá Sour cocktail\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127890\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0178-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0178-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0178-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0178-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0178-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0178-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0178-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0178-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0178-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0178-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0178-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Enrique Sanchez displays the “school crossing” symbol stencil used to make the Maracuyá Sour cocktail\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>https://youtu.be/NlUovpPHHMg\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Principal’s Punch is a play on the San Francisco-invented pisco punch, adding falernum and the herbal French liqueur, Génépy, to the tried-and-true trio of pisco, pineapple and lemon. There’s one catch to that trio. Instead of the usual pineapple gum syrup most recipes for the drink call for, Sanchez makes a pineapple agua fresca-like mix of pineapple juice from the fruit and pineapple water from the skin. Agua fresca and fresh fruit have been a pivotal part of Sanchez’s life since his boyhood when his grandmother had a roadside kiosk selling both.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127883\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0092-new.jpg\" alt=\"The Principal’s Punch\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127883\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0092-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0092-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0092-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0092-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0092-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0092-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0092-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0092-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0092-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0092-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0092-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Principal’s Punch \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In addition, Sanchez makes his own labor-intensive version of the purple maize-based agua fresca staple in Peru, chicha morada, from pineapple skins, apples, cloves and cinnamon, all stained a deep, dark purple hue from the maize’s cob. It’s served in the, you guessed it, Purple Maize cocktail with pisco, amaro, lime, and orange liqueur. The chicha morada and the pineapple agua fresca are also served on their own as non-alcoholic options ($5). And if you’re wondering, Sanchez, doesn’t make his own version of Peru’s beloved sugary soda, Inka Kola, nor does he actually enjoy drinking it these days.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For a spirit-forward pisco option, spring for the Pura Uvas with Madeira and vermouth. Note how it is garnished with a frozen grape because the drink has only three ingredients and each one is made from grapes, as Sanchez playfully mentions in its menu listing. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In fact, many of the drinks have fascinating histories or sarcastically comedic stories behind their names. Sanchez does a great job of offering insights into his drink creations, both with drink description paragraphs on the menu and recipes on the back of bar coasters. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127840\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0219-new.jpg\" alt=\"Coasters with cocktail recipes\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127840\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0219-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0219-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0219-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0219-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0219-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0219-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0219-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0219-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0219-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0219-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0219-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Coasters with cocktail recipes \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Under the “whiskey” section, the bourbon fizz Teacher’s Pet cocktail doesn’t refer to a nickname for Sanchez in school. It’s actually a tongue-in-cheek reference to a whoopie cushion-like trick he and a friend played on a teacher they didn’t like as mischievous 14-year olds. Cochineals are tiny insects found in cactus around Latin America and South America. They have a vivid red color that, well, gave the teacher a colorful bottom when he sat on the cochineals that had been discreetly placed on his chair in a matchbook by the two young students. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127853\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0091-new.jpg\" alt=\"Teacher's Pet from the School Night menu\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127853\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0091-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0091-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0091-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0091-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0091-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0091-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0091-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0091-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0091-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0091-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0091-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Teacher's Pet from the School Night menu \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Along with making teachers angry, the bugs are often used to naturally color alcohol and cosmetics. Campari discontinued using cochineal for price reasons a few years ago but Cappelletti, one of the key ingredients in the Teacher’s Pet, still adds it. Don’t be grossed out. Cochineal eventually has no taste in the final products.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Elsewhere on the whiskey side, Hierba Buena is a rye mint julep-like ode to San Francisco’s history as “Yerba Buena” and also the name of the mint leaf used in the drink, providing a minty doubleheader with a San Francisco favorite, fernet. The menu’s Manhattan-style offering is The Queen of Lima, stirring together bourbon; Negra Ciolla (a pisco made of the Negra Criolla grape); mistela (a fortified wine blending pisco and regular grape wine); and Peruvian-made Chuncho bitters.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At this point, you might be wondering why was whiskey singled out as a specialty on School Night’s menu? An old-fashioned is Sanchez’s drink of choice when going out and the way for him to quickly judge a bar’s potential. On cue, his old-fashioned, Bertha & The Smoke, includes his own blend of bitters (Angostura, orange and Dale DeGroff’s pimento) smoked in Bertha, then stirred with high-proof rye, and poured over a large rock snugly nestled in a previously smoked tumbler.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://youtu.be/3ZNbFhR_MhI\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127889\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0183-new.jpg\" alt=\"Bertha & The Smoke\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127889\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0183-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0183-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0183-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0183-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0183-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0183-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0183-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0183-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0183-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0183-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0183-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bertha & The Smoke \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As these approachable but elaborate drinks suggest, Sanchez is one of the under-the-radar stars of San Francisco’s bar community. He’s not a celebrity bartender because he doesn’t seek the spotlight or have his own bar, but he is an icon to his fellow city bar managers and one of the most entertaining bartenders in the city to chat with. If you want to learn every minute detail about smoking bitters or a particular pisco grape, then get ready for a lesson at School Night. There may be homework afterwards. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He arrived in San Francisco from Peru as a 21-year old and grew to become the lead bartender for Acurio’s first restaurant outside of Peru, La Mar Cebicheria Peruana, when it opened on the Embarcadero a decade ago. Sanchez is a big reason why pisco sours are now one of the most ordered drinks across the Bay Area. But, his career has also taken him to a few Mexican concepts, like Tres Agaves and Arguello, that have opened his eyes to agave spirits right at the same time that mezcal started having its “revolution” moment. As a Peruvian, pisco will always “be in his blood” but Sanchez acknowledges he’s really excited by mezcal and tequila nowadays. That’s why agave is the third part of his menu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>His version of a margarita is Mr. Kotter, splitting the difference of a classic recipe’s use of orange liqueur and the Tommy’s way with agave nectar, and serving the drink on a hibiscus-infused rock for a color flourish. Tequila isn’t an expected base for a martini but it is in Pancho’s Martini, smoothed out with the salty embrace of manzanilla sherry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The menu’s best match for a poolside cocktail is, appropriately, Spring Break, a smoky mezcal drink on ice pebbles with pineapple gum syrup and hibiscus. Finally, if the lecture at School Night is making your eyes feel a little heavy, it’s time for the Recess Reboot. The mezcal drink is an interpretation of how Mexican coffee often has cinnamon, cloves and piloncillo. Sanchez makes the spiced coffee as a cold brew to mix with amaro and whipped cream for a richer body when poured over crushed ice. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Outside of cocktails, four local beers are served on draft ($7), Peru’s national Cusqueña lager is available by the bottle ($5) a few tempting sherries are offered ($6-$8) and three wines are poured by-the-glass on draft ($12). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Obviously, in order to make this weeknight-only concept really work, Mendelson knew all along that his grand plan could thrive only if he has an all-star team. He certainly found that with Des Jardins and Sanchez. Des Jardins might not be the national icon of a Thomas Keller or Alice Waters, but the two-time James Beard winner and Central Valley native deserves a place on the local chefs’ Mount Rushmore for her influential work at restaurants and in the community. She sits on the board of La Cocina, is active in all sorts of charity and education activities, and helped launch the Giants’ centerfield garden with the Bon Appétit Management Company a few years ago at AT&T Park.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127935\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4548-new1.jpg\" alt=\"Traci Des Jardins at School Night\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127935\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4548-new1.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4548-new1-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4548-new1-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4548-new1-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4548-new1-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4548-new1-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4548-new1-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4548-new1-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4548-new1-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4548-new1-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4548-new1-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Traci Des Jardins at School Night \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>On the restaurant side, she started with no culinary training (no school nights!) but landed apprenticeships with many legendary French kitchens including La Maison Troisgros, Alain Passard’s L’Arpège and Alain Ducasse’s Le Louis XV. After learning classical French techniques from the best mentors possible, Des Jardins’ career brought her back to her home state and the wonderful ingredients of California. She was an opening chef in various capacities at some of the most important restaurants of the 1990s including Patina in Los Angeles (the only one still open); Aqua; Japantown’s fascinating Japanese-French fusion restaurant, Elka (here’s an \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/1993/01/13/garden/from-hill-to-hill-san-francisco-s-top-restaurants.html\">interesting throwback article\u003c/a> about that important but oft-forgotten place); and Rubicon. That last one is where Des Jardins finally could run her own kitchen as Executive Chef and where she won the 1995 James Beard Foundation Rising Star Chef of the Year award. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Her solo debut, Jardinière, opened in 1997 and still is as strong as ever, balancing a nightly crowd of theatergoers, older regulars and eager, young food-obsessed diners. Des Jardins also owns or co-owns Mijita, a taqueria in the Ferry Building and attached to AT&T Park; Arguello, TRANSIT and The Commissary in the Presidio; and Public House at AT&T Park. Her restaurant concepts are eclectic in style and location to say the least. After helping to put the Presidio on the San Francisco dining map, it’s exciting to see her help elevate the Dogpatch dining scene in the complete opposite corner of the city. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Along with Mendelson, Des Jardins and Sanchez have a strong team of industry personnel and non-traditional hospitality personnel to make sure this concept isn’t just an experiment. The Pearl’s General Manager is Jon Larner, a Founding Partner of The Independent concert venue on Divisadero. School Night’s General Manager is Riley Bartlett (Pizzeria Delfina, Spruce) and Amy Reynolds is the Director of Operations for Des Jardins’ medium-sized stable of restaurants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127824\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4658-new.jpg\" alt=\"Pearl’s General Manager is Jon Larner\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1370\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127824\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4658-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4658-new-160x114.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4658-new-800x571.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4658-new-768x548.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4658-new-1020x728.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4658-new-1200x856.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4658-new-1180x842.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4658-new-960x685.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4658-new-240x171.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4658-new-375x268.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4658-new-520x371.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pearl’s General Manager is Jon Larner \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>So, The Pearl is its own operation and School Night is an overlapping one between the chef and The Pearl. As far as event spaces go, you’d be hard pressed to find a more impressive venue than The Pearl. It’s a three-level loft-chic space with a gorgeous rooftop patio. The main floor boasts several intriguing maps as pieces of art by Alexis Laurent and a ceiling-high living indoor garden on built-in giant cranes à la New York’s High Line. For a bar next door to not seem like a low-key supporting act to such a stunner...good luck! With Laurent’s help, School Night has managed to be architecturally notable on its own.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127827\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4700-new.jpg\" alt=\"Inside The Pearl looking down on the first level\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127827\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4700-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4700-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4700-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4700-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4700-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4700-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4700-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4700-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4700-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4700-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4700-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Inside The Pearl looking down on the first level \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127887\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4706-new.jpg\" alt=\"The Pearl second level space\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127887\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4706-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4706-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4706-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4706-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4706-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4706-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4706-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4706-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4706-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4706-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4706-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Pearl second level space \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127888\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4710-new.jpg\" alt=\"The Pearl rooftop patio\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127888\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4710-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4710-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4710-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4710-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4710-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4710-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4710-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4710-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4710-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4710-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4710-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Pearl rooftop patio \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Seating is split between the bar, central high-tops and wooden booths on the non-bar side wall. The latter two areas have full service. A partition made of glazed glass cubes and a stack of firewood greets diners at the door and then a chic-industrial theme dominates everywhere you look when walking to a seat. Exposed pipes run overhead with oversized lamp bulbs dangling down from the ceiling. They immediately draw your attention to the skylight (trend alert!) that gives the airy space an even grander aura. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127884\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4619-new.jpg\" alt=\"Inside School Night\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127884\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4619-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4619-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4619-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4619-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4619-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4619-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4619-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4619-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4619-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4619-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4619-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Inside School Night \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There are four main design features that the Instagram and gallery-frequenting crowds will appreciate. We mentioned the three-dimensional plant print wall fixture by the entrance, made by Laurent. The bathrooms are right next to it and each stall has an eye-catching tile wall. The bar’s background is a giant menu board that seems partially inspired by the one at Toronado and partially like a chalkboard in a classroom. The far end of the room features a wheel-like light creation by Laurent that has a steampunk vibe to it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127837\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4628-new.jpg\" alt=\"Three-dimensional plant print wall relief by San Francisco artist Alexis Laurent\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127837\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4628-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4628-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4628-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4628-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4628-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4628-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4628-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4628-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4628-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4628-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4628-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Three-dimensional plant print wall relief by San Francisco artist Alexis Laurent \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127823\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4636-new.jpg\" alt=\"The festive bathroom \" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127823\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4636-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4636-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4636-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4636-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4636-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4636-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4636-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4636-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4636-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4636-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4636-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The festive bathroom \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Clearly, School Night has the talent and the design to make it a hit on what are usually the most sluggish evenings of the week for bars and restaurants. Plus, the $12 cocktails are “a deal” by San Francisco’s inflated standards and the venue is in a neighborhood going through a huge building and housing boom. There is a lot working in School Night’s favor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>School Night is an intriguing industry strategy and one that will be closely watched. We’ve seen other restaurants in the city make daring changes, whether it’s having ticketed reservations or serving high-end cuisine in no-frills spaces. It’s up to San Francisco diners and drinkers to fill our the report card for this concept. However, one thing is for certain — when our adult homework involves tasting cebiche and pisco cocktails, we look forward to school nights. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127850\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0084-new.jpg\" alt=\"School Night signage\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127850\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0084-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0084-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0084-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0084-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0084-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0084-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0084-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0084-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0084-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0084-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0084-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">School Night signage \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.schoolnightsf.com/\">\u003cstrong>School Night\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n601 19th St. \u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/School+Night/@37.7615343,-122.3911776,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f7fb811772cff:0x73e436e233e70b52!8m2!3d37.7615343!4d-122.3889836\">MAP\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94107\u003cbr>\nPh: (415) 903-5427\u003cbr>\nHours: Sunday-Wednesday, 5pm-Midnight\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/pg/ThePearlSF/about/?ref=page_internal\">The Pearl\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nInstagram: \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/schoolnightsf/?hl=en\">@SchoolNightSF\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/SchoolNightSF\">@SchoolNightSF\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nPrice Range: $$\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "With a menu designed by Traci Des Jardins and cocktails from Enrique Sanchez, School Night is an Intriguing Private Event Space and Weeknights-Only Bar Hybrid Experiment in the Dogpatch",
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"description": "With a menu designed by Traci Des Jardins and cocktails from Enrique Sanchez, School Night is an Intriguing Private Event Space and Weeknights-Only Bar Hybrid Experiment in the Dogpatch",
"title": "Homework Means Celebrating on School Nights With the Dogpatch’s New Weeknights-Only Bar | KQED",
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"headline": "Homework Means Celebrating on School Nights With the Dogpatch’s New Weeknights-Only Bar",
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"nprByline": "\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/author/trevorfelch\">Trevor Felch\u003c/a> (writer), \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/author/wendy-goodfriend\">Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/a> (photos/video)",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cem>With a menu designed by Traci Des Jardins and cocktails from Enrique Sanchez, School Night is an Intriguing Private Event Space and Weeknights-Only Bar Hybrid Experiment in the Dogpatch\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At first glance, a bar being closed on Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights is like a Financial District coffee shop only being open on weekend evenings or a sports bar strictly serving weekday lunch. It makes you raise your eyebrows as if you’re a judge on “Shark Tank” and begs you to ask the contestant, “Are you trying to lose money with this business plan?”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dig a little deeper, however, and you’ll realize that this structure for the Dogpatch Sunday to Wednesday nights-only newcomer, School Night, is actually pretty smart, if unconventional. It may even be brilliant. In present day, start-up-centric San Francisco terms, it’s a “disruptor.” Some “disruptors” truly do disrupt normal life in a negative way and are annoying pests like all of those electric scooters on the sidewalks. Other disruptors like how the Los Angeles chef Dave Beran serves dessert bites throughout the tasting menu at his new restaurant, \u003ca href=\"https://www.dialoguerestaurant.com/\">Dialogue\u003c/a>, are initially met with heavy skepticism for being different but then win approval because they end up being a clever change-up from the status quo that nobody knew they wanted or needed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127810\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4434-new.jpg\" alt=\"Inside School Night\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127810\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4434-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4434-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4434-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4434-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4434-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4434-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4434-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4434-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4434-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4434-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4434-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Inside School Night \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>School Night is definitely the latter type of disruptor. Let’s get one thing straight about how it manages to be a restaurant and bar industry disruptor — it isn’t just a restaurant and bar. \u003ca href=\"https://www.thepearlsf.com/school-night-bar\">School Night\u003c/a> is an open to the public part of a spectacular two-year old event spaced called \u003ca href=\"https://www.thepearlsf.com/\">“The Pearl.”\u003c/a> The venue’s Co-Founder and Managing Partner, Adam Mendelson, knew that he couldn’t just open another restaurant in the traditional format when he decided to go into the hospitality business with a background in renewable energy finance (talk about an unlikely path!). Hopefully this isn’t breaking news to the dining public but it’s no secret in the restaurant industry — owning a restaurant or bar or winery or pretty much any food and beverage concept — is not going to make sustainable money. It’s even more daunting in a competitive and outrageously expensive market like this one. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127825\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4679-new-1.jpg\" alt=\"Inside The Pearl\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127825\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4679-new-1.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4679-new-1-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4679-new-1-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4679-new-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4679-new-1-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4679-new-1-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4679-new-1-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4679-new-1-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4679-new-1-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4679-new-1-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4679-new-1-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Inside The Pearl \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127802\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0169-new.jpg\" alt=\"The Pearl Co-Founder and Managing Partner, Adam Mendelson\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127802\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0169-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0169-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0169-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0169-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0169-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0169-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0169-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0169-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0169-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0169-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0169-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Pearl Co-Founder and Managing Partner, Adam Mendelson \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The Brooklyn Winery in New York’s flexible business model served as one inspiration for The Pearl, as did multi-purpose art galleries and newer hotels. That aforementioned urban winery, for example, is really a winery, event space, casual place for a few bites, and weddings destination. These are venues that serve multiple functions and attract different crowds for different time periods. They are dynamic concepts. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127880\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0077-new.jpg\" alt=\"The Pearl signage\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127880\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0077-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0077-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0077-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0077-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0077-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0077-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0077-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0077-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0077-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0077-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0077-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Pearl signage \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>School Night is enormously helped by The Pearl and The Pearl is greatly enhanced by School Night. Mendelson described the relationship to us as a “virtuous cycle” where The Pearl wouldn’t be on the radar for many Bay Area residents because private event spaces are a small and not very talked-about niche. Everyone pays attention to restaurants and bars. So, much of the public is now aware of The Pearl because of School Night. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the same time, School Night gives The Pearl another prime event space on the big nights for those (Thursday-Saturday), which makes a much more substantial amount of money than a restaurant or bar. On those four traditionally slow nights for private events, School Night is its own destination for eating and drinking the creations of one of San Francisco’s most celebrated chefs and one of San Francisco’s most talented bartenders. Besides, who goes out on weekends anymore? Isn’t Monday night the new Saturday night?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s hard to tell if this is a positive or negative result of #adulting. On one hand, you still have to wake up to work on a Tuesday morning and an 11pm third round of pisco sours might make that less fun. On the other hand, adults (non-parents, that is) don’t have to worry about calculus homework or going to soccer practice because we don’t have the dreaded “school nights” anymore.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127855\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0096-new.jpg\" alt=\"Books and signage on display at School Night\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127855\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0096-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0096-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0096-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0096-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0096-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0096-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0096-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0096-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0096-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0096-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0096-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Books and signage on display at School Night \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>For many people, this writer included, “school night” still sends shivers down our spines like how “flight delay” or “jury duty” makes you freeze and clam up. The term has negative connotations of writing essays about Faulkner at the dinner table and your parents telling you to go to sleep by 10pm even if the Giants game is only in the eighth inning. In other words, school night meant “no fun.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Luckily, we have School Night the bar to bring back the “cool” in school night. We’re so over weekends.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127818\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4612-new.jpg\" alt=\"The bar at School Night\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127818\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4612-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4612-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4612-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4612-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4612-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4612-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4612-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4612-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4612-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4612-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4612-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The bar at School Night \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>School Night is an 87-seat bar, open kitchen and dining area located next to The Pearl’s spectacular three-level space, entered from a separate door on 19th Street. The bar’s design is compelling everywhere your eye wanders. It’s worth a trip to the Dogpatch just to see the plant-themed faded prints on the three-dimensional wall fixture near the entrance. But, it’s the Latin-inspired food from Traci Des Jardins and chef de cuisine Audie Golder and the cocktails by Enrique Sanchez that really are the reason to skip the Netflix watching and yoga classes after work in favor of going out on the sleepy town.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127854\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0094-new.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0094-new.jpg\" alt=\"School Night's food menu\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127854\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0094-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0094-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0094-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0094-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0094-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0094-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0094-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0094-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0094-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0094-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0094-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">School Night's food menu \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127815\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4556-new.jpg\" alt=\"Traci Des Jardins\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2880\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127815\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4556-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4556-new-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4556-new-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4556-new-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4556-new-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4556-new-1180x1770.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4556-new-960x1440.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4556-new-240x360.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4556-new-375x563.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4556-new-520x780.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Traci Des Jardins \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The food menu is split between composed kitchen dishes and items from the kitchen’s retro red, wood-burning oven named Bertha, brought in from Portland, Oregon. Acquring Bertha from our neighbor to the north isn’t as random as it sounds. One of The Pearl’s main investors is Kurt Huffman, a powerful Portland restaurateur with his ChefStable group. Yes, that’s the connection of why Portland’s beloved pig-centric sandwich shop, \u003ca href=\"http://lardosandwiches.com/\">Lardo\u003c/a>, popped up at The Pearl at the end of April. Keep an eye on a closer Portland-San Francisco dining relationship that has, for the most part, been a distant rivalry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>From Bertha, guests can enjoy surf, turf or vegetables with baby back ribs “costillas” slathered with tomatillo barbecue sauce ($16); clams and mussels cooked by the flames and paired with angel hair pasta and aji amarillo aioli for “fideos” ($17); or blistered vegetables ($14) from Mariquita Farms, the Watsonville farm that Des Jardins works closely with. Queso fundido ($16) is a gooey mix of Oaxacan, Provola and Fontal cheeses melted by Bertha and teamed with chorizo and poblano peppers, then ready to be formed into a kind of DIY quesadilla with flour tortillas.\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/_XIHOb7OfoY'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/_XIHOb7OfoY'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cp>Des Jardins nods to her mother’s and grandparents’ Mexican heritage throughout the menu at her Presidio restaurant, Arguello, and serves a classic plate of tacos al pastor ($15 for three) at School Night. Bay Area diners often cringe at the thought of eating something like duck hearts and gizzards grilled on anticucho skewers ($13), but hopefully can get past that offal mental block because they be some of the most tender and flavorful cuts of duck, beef and chicken. Another unexpected bird preparation emerging from Bertha partners fried quail leg with a moist achiote-marinated quail breast ($23), accompanied by fried plantains and a zesty onion escabeche.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127836\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0243-new.jpg\" alt=\"Wolfe Ranch quail\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127836\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0243-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0243-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0243-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0243-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0243-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0243-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0243-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0243-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0243-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0243-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0243-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Wolfe Ranch quail \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Both Bertha and kitchen dishes aren’t necessarily small plates or large plates. Think of the non-snack dishes as larger tapas that are great for sharing with a friend or enjoying on your own as a two-to-three dish dinner. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Those snacks for setting the stage of a full meal or just filling an empty belly while drinking include lime, jalapeño and coriander-dusted pepitas ($4) and housemade tortilla chips with tomatillo-chipotle and guajillo-arbol chile salsas ($6).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>From the kitchen, diners can order meat-free Impossible meatball “albondigas” one at a time ($3) and learn that the Impossible burger meat might actually excel more in meatball form with tomatillo salsa than as a patty on a bun with ketchup and mustard. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127834\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0228-new.jpg\" alt=\"Meat-free Impossible meatball\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127834\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0228-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0228-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0228-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0228-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0228-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0228-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0228-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0228-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0228-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0228-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0228-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Meat-free Impossible meatball \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>It’s not as surprising to find \u003ca href=\"https://www.impossiblefoods.com/\">Impossible\u003c/a> meatballs on this bar food menu as it might seem. Des Jardins’ Hayes Valley high-end flagship, Jardinière, was one of the first restaurants in the country to serve it as a burger (and as Impossible beef tartare!). She started her role as a culinary advisor for the Silicon Valley start-up long before it launched in restaurants a year ago. For a little perspective on the company’s growth and Des Jardins’ importance in it, Jardinière and Cockscomb (Chris Cosentino’s meat-centric, opposite of vegetarian SoMa restaurant) were two of the first three restaurants to serve the Impossible burger and now 1,000 restaurants do just over 365 days later. It’s a borderline phenomenon. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Elsewhere on the menu, instead of serving fries, the duck fat-confited fried potatoes ($12) are smashed, crisped and served with guajillo mojo and crema.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cebiche ($13) at School Night comes Peruvian-style. That means raw local halibut comes in small cubes, not heavily diced, is only briefly marinated in the lime-based leche de tigre and comes with hominy and corn nuts, instead of tortilla chips as would be done in Mexico. It’s also given the Peruvian spelling of a “b,” not “ceviche.” Sanchez learned this in high school and insists on it, just like one of his mentors (and Peru’s most influential chef), Gastón Acurio. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127838\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0208-new.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0208-new.jpg\" alt=\"Cebiche\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127838\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0208-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0208-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0208-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0208-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0208-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0208-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0208-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0208-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0208-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0208-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0208-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cebiche \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Salads are generally the last thing on most bar-goers minds but like with the little gem spears at True Laurel and the kale salad at Trick Dog, are given real respect at School Night. The Mexican chopped salad actually is a plate of little gem lettuce cups filled with jicama, cucumber, avocado and pepitas ($13). Meanwhile, the straightforward Tijuana Caesar ($13) is the answer to one of food’s great trivia questions: “Where was the Caesar invented?” Yes, Caesar’s restaurant in Tijuana’s Zona Centro.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sanchez, a native of Lima, Peru, is one of the city’s great ambassadors for that country’s spectacular cuisine and, of course, pisco. The Peruvian brandy gets its own section on the cocktail menu (all cocktails are $12), as do agave spirits and whiskey. If you’re after a daiquiri or a Negroni, don’t worry, it’s a full bar and you’ll be perfectly happy. But for Sanchez’s menu of a dozen drinks, split four per spirit category, trust the master and enjoy his witty and delicious creations. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Without question, the bar’s most Instagram-friendly drink is the Maracuyá Sour, essentially a passion fruit and cacao-pisco sour with a “school crossing” symbol stenciled onto the foamy egg white top from a Peychaud’s bitters spray. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127890\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0178-new.jpg\" alt=\"Enrique Sanchez displays the “school crossing” symbol stencil used to make the Maracuyá Sour cocktail\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127890\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0178-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0178-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0178-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0178-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0178-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0178-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0178-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0178-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0178-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0178-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0178-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Enrique Sanchez displays the “school crossing” symbol stencil used to make the Maracuyá Sour cocktail\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/NlUovpPHHMg'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/NlUovpPHHMg'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cp>The Principal’s Punch is a play on the San Francisco-invented pisco punch, adding falernum and the herbal French liqueur, Génépy, to the tried-and-true trio of pisco, pineapple and lemon. There’s one catch to that trio. Instead of the usual pineapple gum syrup most recipes for the drink call for, Sanchez makes a pineapple agua fresca-like mix of pineapple juice from the fruit and pineapple water from the skin. Agua fresca and fresh fruit have been a pivotal part of Sanchez’s life since his boyhood when his grandmother had a roadside kiosk selling both.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127883\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0092-new.jpg\" alt=\"The Principal’s Punch\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127883\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0092-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0092-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0092-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0092-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0092-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0092-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0092-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0092-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0092-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0092-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0092-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Principal’s Punch \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In addition, Sanchez makes his own labor-intensive version of the purple maize-based agua fresca staple in Peru, chicha morada, from pineapple skins, apples, cloves and cinnamon, all stained a deep, dark purple hue from the maize’s cob. It’s served in the, you guessed it, Purple Maize cocktail with pisco, amaro, lime, and orange liqueur. The chicha morada and the pineapple agua fresca are also served on their own as non-alcoholic options ($5). And if you’re wondering, Sanchez, doesn’t make his own version of Peru’s beloved sugary soda, Inka Kola, nor does he actually enjoy drinking it these days.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For a spirit-forward pisco option, spring for the Pura Uvas with Madeira and vermouth. Note how it is garnished with a frozen grape because the drink has only three ingredients and each one is made from grapes, as Sanchez playfully mentions in its menu listing. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In fact, many of the drinks have fascinating histories or sarcastically comedic stories behind their names. Sanchez does a great job of offering insights into his drink creations, both with drink description paragraphs on the menu and recipes on the back of bar coasters. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127840\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0219-new.jpg\" alt=\"Coasters with cocktail recipes\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127840\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0219-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0219-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0219-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0219-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0219-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0219-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0219-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0219-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0219-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0219-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0219-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Coasters with cocktail recipes \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Under the “whiskey” section, the bourbon fizz Teacher’s Pet cocktail doesn’t refer to a nickname for Sanchez in school. It’s actually a tongue-in-cheek reference to a whoopie cushion-like trick he and a friend played on a teacher they didn’t like as mischievous 14-year olds. Cochineals are tiny insects found in cactus around Latin America and South America. They have a vivid red color that, well, gave the teacher a colorful bottom when he sat on the cochineals that had been discreetly placed on his chair in a matchbook by the two young students. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127853\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0091-new.jpg\" alt=\"Teacher's Pet from the School Night menu\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127853\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0091-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0091-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0091-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0091-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0091-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0091-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0091-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0091-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0091-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0091-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0091-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Teacher's Pet from the School Night menu \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Along with making teachers angry, the bugs are often used to naturally color alcohol and cosmetics. Campari discontinued using cochineal for price reasons a few years ago but Cappelletti, one of the key ingredients in the Teacher’s Pet, still adds it. Don’t be grossed out. Cochineal eventually has no taste in the final products.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Elsewhere on the whiskey side, Hierba Buena is a rye mint julep-like ode to San Francisco’s history as “Yerba Buena” and also the name of the mint leaf used in the drink, providing a minty doubleheader with a San Francisco favorite, fernet. The menu’s Manhattan-style offering is The Queen of Lima, stirring together bourbon; Negra Ciolla (a pisco made of the Negra Criolla grape); mistela (a fortified wine blending pisco and regular grape wine); and Peruvian-made Chuncho bitters.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At this point, you might be wondering why was whiskey singled out as a specialty on School Night’s menu? An old-fashioned is Sanchez’s drink of choice when going out and the way for him to quickly judge a bar’s potential. On cue, his old-fashioned, Bertha & The Smoke, includes his own blend of bitters (Angostura, orange and Dale DeGroff’s pimento) smoked in Bertha, then stirred with high-proof rye, and poured over a large rock snugly nestled in a previously smoked tumbler.\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/3ZNbFhR_MhI'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/3ZNbFhR_MhI'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127889\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0183-new.jpg\" alt=\"Bertha & The Smoke\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127889\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0183-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0183-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0183-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0183-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0183-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0183-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0183-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0183-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0183-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0183-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0183-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bertha & The Smoke \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As these approachable but elaborate drinks suggest, Sanchez is one of the under-the-radar stars of San Francisco’s bar community. He’s not a celebrity bartender because he doesn’t seek the spotlight or have his own bar, but he is an icon to his fellow city bar managers and one of the most entertaining bartenders in the city to chat with. If you want to learn every minute detail about smoking bitters or a particular pisco grape, then get ready for a lesson at School Night. There may be homework afterwards. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He arrived in San Francisco from Peru as a 21-year old and grew to become the lead bartender for Acurio’s first restaurant outside of Peru, La Mar Cebicheria Peruana, when it opened on the Embarcadero a decade ago. Sanchez is a big reason why pisco sours are now one of the most ordered drinks across the Bay Area. But, his career has also taken him to a few Mexican concepts, like Tres Agaves and Arguello, that have opened his eyes to agave spirits right at the same time that mezcal started having its “revolution” moment. As a Peruvian, pisco will always “be in his blood” but Sanchez acknowledges he’s really excited by mezcal and tequila nowadays. That’s why agave is the third part of his menu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>His version of a margarita is Mr. Kotter, splitting the difference of a classic recipe’s use of orange liqueur and the Tommy’s way with agave nectar, and serving the drink on a hibiscus-infused rock for a color flourish. Tequila isn’t an expected base for a martini but it is in Pancho’s Martini, smoothed out with the salty embrace of manzanilla sherry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The menu’s best match for a poolside cocktail is, appropriately, Spring Break, a smoky mezcal drink on ice pebbles with pineapple gum syrup and hibiscus. Finally, if the lecture at School Night is making your eyes feel a little heavy, it’s time for the Recess Reboot. The mezcal drink is an interpretation of how Mexican coffee often has cinnamon, cloves and piloncillo. Sanchez makes the spiced coffee as a cold brew to mix with amaro and whipped cream for a richer body when poured over crushed ice. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Outside of cocktails, four local beers are served on draft ($7), Peru’s national Cusqueña lager is available by the bottle ($5) a few tempting sherries are offered ($6-$8) and three wines are poured by-the-glass on draft ($12). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Obviously, in order to make this weeknight-only concept really work, Mendelson knew all along that his grand plan could thrive only if he has an all-star team. He certainly found that with Des Jardins and Sanchez. Des Jardins might not be the national icon of a Thomas Keller or Alice Waters, but the two-time James Beard winner and Central Valley native deserves a place on the local chefs’ Mount Rushmore for her influential work at restaurants and in the community. She sits on the board of La Cocina, is active in all sorts of charity and education activities, and helped launch the Giants’ centerfield garden with the Bon Appétit Management Company a few years ago at AT&T Park.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127935\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4548-new1.jpg\" alt=\"Traci Des Jardins at School Night\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127935\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4548-new1.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4548-new1-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4548-new1-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4548-new1-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4548-new1-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4548-new1-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4548-new1-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4548-new1-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4548-new1-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4548-new1-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4548-new1-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Traci Des Jardins at School Night \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>On the restaurant side, she started with no culinary training (no school nights!) but landed apprenticeships with many legendary French kitchens including La Maison Troisgros, Alain Passard’s L’Arpège and Alain Ducasse’s Le Louis XV. After learning classical French techniques from the best mentors possible, Des Jardins’ career brought her back to her home state and the wonderful ingredients of California. She was an opening chef in various capacities at some of the most important restaurants of the 1990s including Patina in Los Angeles (the only one still open); Aqua; Japantown’s fascinating Japanese-French fusion restaurant, Elka (here’s an \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/1993/01/13/garden/from-hill-to-hill-san-francisco-s-top-restaurants.html\">interesting throwback article\u003c/a> about that important but oft-forgotten place); and Rubicon. That last one is where Des Jardins finally could run her own kitchen as Executive Chef and where she won the 1995 James Beard Foundation Rising Star Chef of the Year award. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Her solo debut, Jardinière, opened in 1997 and still is as strong as ever, balancing a nightly crowd of theatergoers, older regulars and eager, young food-obsessed diners. Des Jardins also owns or co-owns Mijita, a taqueria in the Ferry Building and attached to AT&T Park; Arguello, TRANSIT and The Commissary in the Presidio; and Public House at AT&T Park. Her restaurant concepts are eclectic in style and location to say the least. After helping to put the Presidio on the San Francisco dining map, it’s exciting to see her help elevate the Dogpatch dining scene in the complete opposite corner of the city. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Along with Mendelson, Des Jardins and Sanchez have a strong team of industry personnel and non-traditional hospitality personnel to make sure this concept isn’t just an experiment. The Pearl’s General Manager is Jon Larner, a Founding Partner of The Independent concert venue on Divisadero. School Night’s General Manager is Riley Bartlett (Pizzeria Delfina, Spruce) and Amy Reynolds is the Director of Operations for Des Jardins’ medium-sized stable of restaurants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127824\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4658-new.jpg\" alt=\"Pearl’s General Manager is Jon Larner\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1370\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127824\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4658-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4658-new-160x114.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4658-new-800x571.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4658-new-768x548.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4658-new-1020x728.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4658-new-1200x856.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4658-new-1180x842.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4658-new-960x685.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4658-new-240x171.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4658-new-375x268.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4658-new-520x371.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pearl’s General Manager is Jon Larner \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>So, The Pearl is its own operation and School Night is an overlapping one between the chef and The Pearl. As far as event spaces go, you’d be hard pressed to find a more impressive venue than The Pearl. It’s a three-level loft-chic space with a gorgeous rooftop patio. The main floor boasts several intriguing maps as pieces of art by Alexis Laurent and a ceiling-high living indoor garden on built-in giant cranes à la New York’s High Line. For a bar next door to not seem like a low-key supporting act to such a stunner...good luck! With Laurent’s help, School Night has managed to be architecturally notable on its own.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127827\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4700-new.jpg\" alt=\"Inside The Pearl looking down on the first level\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127827\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4700-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4700-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4700-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4700-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4700-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4700-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4700-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4700-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4700-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4700-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4700-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Inside The Pearl looking down on the first level \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127887\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4706-new.jpg\" alt=\"The Pearl second level space\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127887\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4706-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4706-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4706-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4706-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4706-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4706-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4706-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4706-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4706-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4706-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4706-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Pearl second level space \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127888\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4710-new.jpg\" alt=\"The Pearl rooftop patio\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127888\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4710-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4710-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4710-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4710-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4710-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4710-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4710-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4710-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4710-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4710-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4710-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Pearl rooftop patio \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Seating is split between the bar, central high-tops and wooden booths on the non-bar side wall. The latter two areas have full service. A partition made of glazed glass cubes and a stack of firewood greets diners at the door and then a chic-industrial theme dominates everywhere you look when walking to a seat. Exposed pipes run overhead with oversized lamp bulbs dangling down from the ceiling. They immediately draw your attention to the skylight (trend alert!) that gives the airy space an even grander aura. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127884\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4619-new.jpg\" alt=\"Inside School Night\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127884\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4619-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4619-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4619-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4619-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4619-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4619-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4619-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4619-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4619-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4619-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4619-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Inside School Night \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There are four main design features that the Instagram and gallery-frequenting crowds will appreciate. We mentioned the three-dimensional plant print wall fixture by the entrance, made by Laurent. The bathrooms are right next to it and each stall has an eye-catching tile wall. The bar’s background is a giant menu board that seems partially inspired by the one at Toronado and partially like a chalkboard in a classroom. The far end of the room features a wheel-like light creation by Laurent that has a steampunk vibe to it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127837\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4628-new.jpg\" alt=\"Three-dimensional plant print wall relief by San Francisco artist Alexis Laurent\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127837\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4628-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4628-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4628-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4628-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4628-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4628-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4628-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4628-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4628-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4628-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4628-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Three-dimensional plant print wall relief by San Francisco artist Alexis Laurent \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127823\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4636-new.jpg\" alt=\"The festive bathroom \" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127823\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4636-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4636-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4636-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4636-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4636-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4636-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4636-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4636-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4636-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4636-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4636-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The festive bathroom \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Clearly, School Night has the talent and the design to make it a hit on what are usually the most sluggish evenings of the week for bars and restaurants. Plus, the $12 cocktails are “a deal” by San Francisco’s inflated standards and the venue is in a neighborhood going through a huge building and housing boom. There is a lot working in School Night’s favor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>School Night is an intriguing industry strategy and one that will be closely watched. We’ve seen other restaurants in the city make daring changes, whether it’s having ticketed reservations or serving high-end cuisine in no-frills spaces. It’s up to San Francisco diners and drinkers to fill our the report card for this concept. However, one thing is for certain — when our adult homework involves tasting cebiche and pisco cocktails, we look forward to school nights. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127850\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0084-new.jpg\" alt=\"School Night signage\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127850\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0084-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0084-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0084-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0084-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0084-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0084-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0084-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0084-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0084-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0084-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0084-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">School Night signage \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.schoolnightsf.com/\">\u003cstrong>School Night\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n601 19th St. \u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/School+Night/@37.7615343,-122.3911776,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f7fb811772cff:0x73e436e233e70b52!8m2!3d37.7615343!4d-122.3889836\">MAP\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94107\u003cbr>\nPh: (415) 903-5427\u003cbr>\nHours: Sunday-Wednesday, 5pm-Midnight\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/pg/ThePearlSF/about/?ref=page_internal\">The Pearl\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nInstagram: \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/schoolnightsf/?hl=en\">@SchoolNightSF\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/SchoolNightSF\">@SchoolNightSF\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nPrice Range: $$\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Buzzy Valencia Street Gets a Swinging 60s Addition With The Beehive’s Debut",
"title": "Buzzy Valencia Street Gets a Swinging 60s Addition With The Beehive’s Debut",
"headTitle": "New Restaurants 2018 | Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cem>The Beehive is a groovy trip back to the 60s in the Mission’s former Range location\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Is there such a thing as “groovy cuisine”? I’m not talking about psychedelic-themed Ben and Jerry’s ice cream flavors or anything inspired by Austin Powers, like a \u003ca href=\"https://la.eater.com/2018/3/27/17165944/austin-powers-bar-glendale-electric-pussycat-coming\">pop-up bar\u003c/a> that is currently open in Los Angeles. Though the groovy 1960s overlapped greatly with the peak of hippie cuisine, a genre that recently was covered extensively by local food writer Jonathan Kauffman in \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/forum/2010101863775\">Hippie Food\u003c/a>, brown rice and mung bean sprouts aren’t groovy. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The term obviously has a 1960s connotation but it also evokes the same upbeat and positive manner of New Orleans’ relentless “let the good times roll” mentality. In other words, “groovy cuisine” should balance both a mindset of optimism in difficult times and a reference to a certain time period. You’ll find both gloriously in harmony at The Beehive, the Mission’s swinging and shiny new imbibing destination with equally noteworthy food. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127551\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4413-new.jpg\" alt=\"The Beehive exterior\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127551\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4413-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4413-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4413-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4413-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4413-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4413-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4413-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4413-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4413-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4413-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4413-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Beehive exterior \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127478\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3521-new.jpg\" alt=\"The Beehive interior lounge area\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127478\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3521-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3521-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3521-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3521-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3521-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3521-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3521-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3521-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3521-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3521-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3521-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Beehive interior lounge area \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Let’s be honest--nobody wants to go to a restaurant and actually order a glass of artificial powder and water. Or spam from the can. Or stacks of Ritz crackers from the cardboard box. Or another listless fondue with stale bread and sad vegetables for dipping. Or Swedish meatballs unless you’re desperate at Ikea. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All of these retro favorites, some specifically from the 1960s and others just mid-20th general food items, became so untrendy after that time period that newer generations have grown to embrace them and seek to make them trendy again. It’s the circle of canned food and powdered drinks life. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Local bars with strong food programs (Trick Dog, True Laurel, The Douglas Room, \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/126982/berkeley-classic-henrys-scores-a-touchdown-with-new-teams-menu-and-design-changes\">Henry’s\u003c/a> to name just a few) have tackled the subject of “bar food” with gusto and created a now ubiquitous “elevated bar food” genre that lifts up patty melts and chicken wings in the same way that pizza and meatloaf were given needed tweaks around the Bay Area by chefs during the comfort food craze of five to ten years ago. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Beehive aims to elevate 1960s cocktail party hors d’oeuvres but really extends from that by offering a mélange of those oft-forgotten classic (crudité with dip; pigs in a blanket; shrimp cocktail), general bar food given a twist (sliders; deviled eggs), and also period staples like fondue and Americanized Chinese food that could have been served in the 1960s at school cafeterias, football tailgates or eaten on a random night at home with David Cassidy and Shirley Jones on the TV. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127537\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4284-new.jpg\" alt=\"Trio of Deviled Eggs\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127537\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4284-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4284-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4284-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4284-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4284-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4284-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4284-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4284-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4284-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4284-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4284-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Trio of Deviled Eggs \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>These are all retro staples that have been fine-tuned, rethought and spruced up with a contemporary chef’s emphasis on higher quality, fresher ingredients. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127539\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4301-new.jpg\" alt=\"House-made “Spam” Rillette\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127539\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4301-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4301-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4301-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4301-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4301-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4301-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4301-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4301-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4301-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4301-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4301-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">House-made “Spam” Rillette \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>For example, there’s a plate of housemade “spam” rillette with pineapple chutney and “Ritz crackers” ($10) alongside Swedish meatballs ($11) on the “bites” menu. To change up the former, “spam” is a wedge of pork shoulder and bacon that really does have spam’s earthy-meaty flavor profile but exchanges the real thing’s blubbery, watery consistency, for the force meat-evoking, almost mousse-like texture that you’d expect of a typical pork or salmon rillettes. Those “Ritz crackers” are made in a pasta maker and have the buttery mouth feel of the real crackers without the harsh salt blast of each bite.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127531\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4221-new.jpg\" alt=\"Swedish Meatballs\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127531\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4221-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4221-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4221-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4221-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4221-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4221-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4221-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4221-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4221-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4221-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4221-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Swedish Meatballs \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>To improve the latter, The Beehive’s gluten-free meatballs skip the frequently cloying addition of breadcrumbs in the mix and have a pleasant balance of 60% pork and 40% beef, so they’re tender and perky but also have some juiciness to them like a burger at Nopa. Each meatball has some deft seasoning from ginger and nutmeg and resides in a pool of creamy gravy that boasts some unexpectedly intense beefy flavor to it. Following the cocktail party motif, the three meatballs each have a fondue stick in them. The witty catch is that each meatball is pretty massive, so there’s a caveman eating a turkey leg vibe to tackling one of these in one mammoth bite. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Are oversized Swedish meatballs proper cocktail party food? Definitely not but it’s pretty funny to imagine Don Draper tackling one with a Manhattan in his other hand.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Amongst the \u003ca href=\"https://www.thebeehivesf.com/cocktails\">dozen cocktails\u003c/a>, the “Gemini” (all cocktails are $13) is a smooth, not too icy slushie centered on housemade “Tang” with manzanilla sherry and, yet another trendy-untrendy-trendy again stalwart, Ketel One vodka. It tastes like…real Tang with the pronounced saline kick that is manzanilla sherry’s trademark. Honestly, it’s fascinating how dead-on the flavor of this “Tang” really is compared to the chemical-laden one but you can also taste the freshness of having real oranges involved.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127575\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_3964-new.jpg\" alt=\"Gemini cocktail\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2880\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127575\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_3964-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_3964-new-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_3964-new-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_3964-new-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_3964-new-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_3964-new-1180x1770.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_3964-new-960x1440.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_3964-new-240x360.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_3964-new-375x563.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_3964-new-520x780.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Gemini cocktail \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The Beehive’s period-specific vision is so sharply defined and the research and development must have been so daunting (an estimated 40 pounds of cheese were used for fondue experimenting) that you know The Beehive can’t be the product of industry rookies. And, it isn’t. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The bar is in the same venerable venue on Valencia next to the Mission Playground and Pool that housed the game-changing restaurant, Range, for a dozen years until its closing on New Year’s Eve of 2016. With Delfina and the original Slanted Door, Range helped transform the Mission into the dining juggernaut and frontline of gentrification neighborhood that it is today. Range’s chef and co-owner Phil West shares Partner duties at The Beehive with another celebrated chef, Arnold Eric Wong, and one of the city’s design maestros, Steve Werney. Hang with us as we breakdown the connections that make Wong and West seems like the well-connected Kevin Bacon’s of San Francisco restaurants. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127515\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4014-new.jpg\" alt=\"Partner/Chef Phil West in front of The Beehive\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127515\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4014-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4014-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4014-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4014-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4014-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4014-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4014-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4014-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4014-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4014-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4014-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Partner/Chef Phil West in front of The Beehive \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127576\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_3944-new.jpg\" alt=\"Partner/Chef Arnold Eric Wong\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127576\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_3944-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_3944-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_3944-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_3944-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_3944-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_3944-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_3944-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_3944-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_3944-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_3944-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_3944-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Partner/Chef Arnold Eric Wong \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127544\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4334-new.jpg\" alt=\"Partner/Designer Steve Werney\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127544\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4334-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4334-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4334-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4334-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4334-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4334-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4334-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4334-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4334-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4334-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4334-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Partner/Designer Steve Werney \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Wong, a Haight Ashbury native and now Berkeley resident, opened EOS in Cole Valley (a highly regarded Asian fusion restaurant at the peak of that trend in the late 1990s) and was the founding chef and partner of SoMa’s celebrated Bacar in the early 2000s. West met Wong at Bacar and the two separated for West to open Range with his wife, Cameron (whom he also met at EOS). Werney made a name for himself separately with the award-winning design of 25 Lusk but joined this duo and esteemed bar star Carlos Yturria (who met West and Wong at Bacar) for a formidable partnership quartet to open The Treasury, in the FiDi, in 2015. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The team’s set-up is different from almost any other bar or restaurant. You now know about the three partners but they also work in myriad forms with a full-time chef, general manager and lead bartender, all of whom have their own ideas and work together with the partners to fully complete the experience. It’s an unusual set of checks and balances for a bar or restaurant. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wong is a trained pastry chef, in addition to being one of the city’s A-list general chefs. So, he’ll consult on everything from the seasoning for the meatballs to butter in a pie crust to making the gums and syrups for the cocktails. West will offer thoughts on food but also does number crunching, design advice and, when necessary, sweep leaves from the entryway. They are heavily involved mentors who really let general manager Tristen Philippart de Foy (brought over from The Treasury), chef Byron Gee (The Rotunda at Neiman Marcus) and lead bartender Emilio Salehi (an under 30-years old cocktail-making prodigy who has worked at Whitechapel, Mourad and The Treasury) do the day-to-day work.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127479\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3544-new.jpg\" alt=\"General Manager Tristen Philippart de Foy at the back bar\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127479\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3544-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3544-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3544-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3544-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3544-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3544-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3544-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3544-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3544-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3544-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3544-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">General Manager Tristen Philippart de Foy at the back bar \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127583\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1509px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4166-new1.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Byron Gee in The Beehive's open kitchen\" width=\"1509\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127583\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4166-new1.jpg 1509w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4166-new1-160x136.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4166-new1-800x679.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4166-new1-768x651.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4166-new1-1020x865.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4166-new1-1200x1018.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4166-new1-1180x1001.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4166-new1-960x814.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4166-new1-240x204.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4166-new1-375x318.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4166-new1-520x441.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1509px) 100vw, 1509px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Byron Gee in The Beehive's open kitchen \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127507\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3938-new.jpg\" alt=\"Lead Bartender Emilio Salehi\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127507\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3938-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3938-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3938-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3938-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3938-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3938-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3938-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3938-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3938-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3938-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3938-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Lead Bartender Emilio Salehi \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>If you frequent The Treasury and dined at Range, you’ll see how there’s a distinct style that has emerged in making each venue a consistently likeable place. They have upbeat vibes but aren’t trying to be hip or innovative. The Treasury is a glamorous, celebratory space with no attitude. Range was equal parts high-end and relaxed. You could wear a suit and tie or jeans and a t-shirt to both. Drinks at The Treasury by Yturria and at Range (many of its ex-bartenders have gone on to prominent roles like Jeff Lyons at The Third Rail in the Dogpatch) are clean and exciting, but never wild. That connecting line continues to the food, whether it’s Wong’s albacore and Roncevaux cheese tuna melt at The Treasury or West’s beloved coffee-rubbed pork shoulder at Range. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Salehi says he aims for “approachable cocktails that are also cocktails for cocktail drinkers.” That concept pretty much sums up the unifying dining and drinking experiences created at Range and The Treasury, and now at The Beehive: approachable, high quality and clever.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127504\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3897-new.jpg\" alt=\"The Beehive cocktails (L to R): Thunderbird, Ipanema Gold, Bikini Drifter, Rising Sun\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127504\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3897-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3897-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3897-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3897-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3897-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3897-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3897-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3897-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3897-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3897-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3897-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Beehive cocktails (L to R): Thunderbird, Ipanema Gold, Bikini Drifter, Rising Sun \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Speaking of approachable but completely refashioned drinks, we’ve come this far and not mentioned the one part of The Beehive that, ahem, has created the most opening buzz. At its core, the “Bikini Drifter” is a piña colada. For the Instagram crowd and novelty drink seekers, it’s the purple drink. To the cocktail professional, it’s a fascinating study of a frothy, tropical cocktail with a bizarre \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Falernum\">falernum\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127500\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3847-new.jpg\" alt=\"Lead Bartender Emilio Salehi puts the finishing touches on the Bikini Drifter\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2880\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127500\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3847-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3847-new-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3847-new-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3847-new-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3847-new-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3847-new-1180x1770.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3847-new-960x1440.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3847-new-240x360.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3847-new-375x563.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3847-new-520x780.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Lead Bartender Emilio Salehi puts the finishing touches on the Bikini Drifter \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Salehi wanted to express the intensity of the \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nuclear_testing_at_Bikini_Atoll\">Bikini Atoll\u003c/a> atomic bomb testing program of the mid 20th century and the striking colors of the lagoon surrounding it. So, he makes a falernum (a low ABV rum-based syrup) with anchan (butterfly pea flower), chamomile and hibiscus that combines to give a purple-hued jolt when poured onto the frothy drink’s coconut-pineapple-rum-tequila body built on ice pebbles. The syrup eventually collects at the bottom and does have a bit of a mushroom cloud appearance in its tall piña colada glass with the white part of the cocktail rising above the purple.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://youtu.be/x5-91NB7BqI\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The “Ipanema Gold” isn’t just another play on a Caipirinha. Salehi was a saxophone player while growing up and an avid fan of mid-century Brazilian Bossa Nova music, so he wanted something fun and unexpected with cachaça as the base. Then Salehi adds a mango gum (made by Wong) that incorporates galangal and makrut leaf lime. It’s vital to the drink like how a sauce might finish a duck entrée—a culinary mentality transferred to cocktail designing that Salehi learned from the many talented cooks at Mourad. The drink is rounded out by yogurt liqueur and a lemon and lime zest garnish that represents—you got it—the flag of Brazil. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://youtu.be/pFqpHOJ2pCE\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127554\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8475-new.jpg\" alt=\"Ipanema Gold cocktail\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127554\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8475-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8475-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8475-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8475-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8475-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8475-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8475-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8475-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8475-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8475-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8475-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ipanema Gold cocktail \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>For a fun nod to San Francisco cocktail history, a pair of cocktails are named for the gay bars that existed in this venue before it was Range: the “Fickle Fox” (a smooth, boozy sipper of cognac, Cappelletti liqueur, Gran Classico and Cocchi di Torino vermouth) and the “Crystal Pistol” (a refreshing, bubbly ensemble of vodka, limoncello, Suze liqueur, sparkling wine and soda). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Towing the line between citrusy-light and spirit-centric, The Beehive’s egg white sour is the gin-based “Beauty Mark” with a distinct cardamom flavor, enhanced by tangerine, cacao and lime. The “Thunderbird” also resides in this category with the bar’s private barrel Avion Reposado tequila serving as the base for a bergamot thyme marmalade (again, made by Wong, using sous vide techniques), passion fruit, Campari, lime, and tonic. For the namesake “The Beehive” cocktail, sarsaparilla honey adds root beer’s malty-vanilla notes to counter the herbs of Botanist gin and the aggressive spice of ginger.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127495\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3698-new.jpg\" alt=\"Thunderbird cocktail\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127495\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3698-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3698-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3698-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3698-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3698-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3698-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3698-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3698-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3698-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3698-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3698-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Thunderbird cocktail \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>https://youtu.be/TSv_t1NwGWg\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like The Treasury, The Beehive uses a lot more sherry (Yturria is the city’s sherry guru) and vermouth than your average cocktail bar. Inspired by \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peanut_butter,_banana_and_bacon_sandwich\">Elvis’ beloved sandwich of choice\u003c/a>, the “Hound Dog” uses an oloroso sherry-vermouth blend to balance out peanut-washed bourbon, served on a large rock, and garnished with a caramelized banana chip. The Beehive puts together its own vermouth blend from a pair of vermouths and an amaro to use in many off-menu classic cocktail standards. It also appears on the menu in the “Rising Sun,” a dense, layered rendition of a scotch Manhattan served up in a \u003ca href=\"https://www.diffordsguide.com/encyclopedia/329/cocktails/cocktail-glassware\">Nick & Nora glass\u003c/a> (very “Mad Men,” indeed) with pear brandy, Licor 43 from Spain and Dewar’s scotch, a staple of that time period. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127498\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3818-new.jpg\" alt=\"Rising Sun cocktail\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127498\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3818-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3818-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3818-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3818-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3818-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3818-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3818-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3818-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3818-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3818-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3818-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Rising Sun cocktail \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Outside of cocktails, there is a selection of high balls, led by a Suntory Whisky toki served from a machine by the bar. Guests will also find four beers on tap and 11 wines poured by-the-glass. If you’re really looking for the best wine, the ones to get are amongst the 10 bottles like a Selbach Oster Riesling Kabinett or Young Inglewood’s Cabernet Sauvignon from one of the Napa Valley’s most exciting young wineries. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All of these cocktail details mean that The Beehive really is first and foremost a bar, right? Yes and no. It really is hard to tell if this is a bar-restaurant or a restaurant-bar. Take your pick.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Outside of fondue, \u003ca href=\"https://www.thebeehivesf.com/bites\">the food menu\u003c/a> is composed of what it calls “bites” and each plate really would be the definition of “small plates” at all the neighborhood restaurants around town who focus on that sharing is caring style of eating. It’s a pretty simple menu layout, being split in five categories: meat, sea, snacks, veggie and fondue. The Swedish meatballs and spam rillettes share “meat” space with the signature food item from The Treasury—puff pastry-wrapped sausages by Meat by Pete (a local butcher who has worked extensively with Foreign Cinema) that are a faithful but improved rendition of pigs in a blanket ($9) with Mendocino mustard for dipping.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127542\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4319-new.jpg\" alt=\"Treasury Pigs in a Blanket\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127542\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4319-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4319-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4319-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4319-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4319-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4319-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4319-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4319-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4319-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4319-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4319-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Treasury Pigs in a Blanket \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>From the “sea,” guests can opt for a puffy batter-fried fish and tartar sauce slider ($5); sake-steamed mussels with Thai chilis ($15); and a Mission shrimp cocktail ($13) with avocado that is like the marriage of ceviche and shrimp cocktail. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127547\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4340-new.jpg\" alt=\"Mission Shrimp Cocktail\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2880\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127547\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4340-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4340-new-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4340-new-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4340-new-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4340-new-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4340-new-1180x1770.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4340-new-960x1440.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4340-new-240x360.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4340-new-375x563.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4340-new-520x780.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mission Shrimp Cocktail \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Crudité ($10) is far more exciting than it sounds with various vegetables ready to be dunked in a bright green goddess dip. The other “veggie” dishes are more contemporary or seasonal in spirit with roasted beets, Bellwether Farms ricotta and a pistachio-based dukkha spice and nut blend ($9) channeling the former and charred asparagus with dashi aioli ($13) representing the latter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127541\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4314-new.jpg\" alt=\"Crudité\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127541\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4314-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4314-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4314-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4314-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4314-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4314-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4314-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4314-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4314-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4314-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4314-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Crudité \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127557\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8552-new.jpg\" alt=\"Roasted Beets with Pistachio Dukkha and Bellwether Farms Ricotta\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127557\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8552-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8552-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8552-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8552-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8552-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8552-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8552-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8552-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8552-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8552-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8552-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Roasted Beets with Pistachio Dukkha and Bellwether Farms Ricotta \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“Snacks” include beef tallow-fried French fries with ketchup and mayonnaise ($8); French onion powder-dusted popcorn ($4); rock shrimp-stuffed egg foo young fritters ($11); and a trio of deviled eggs ($5) that features a scotch egg-like fried one, a fiery Tabasco-laced one, and a more conventional styled egg.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The pair of fondues ($26 for a small, $40 for a large) arrive in vessels that look like the turret of a castle. One fondue base is a bright, slightly funky aged cheddar mix with piquillo pepper and mezcal. The other is a little more traditional but more nutty and earthy thanks to Kaltbach cave-aged cheese from Switzerland and a subtle hit of barnyard flavor from saison beer added to the mix. Each fondue comes with cubes of Bakers of Paris bread, potatoes and broccoli (beware, the last one drips lots of cheese since it isn’t an absorber!). \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127532\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4236-new.jpg\" alt=\"Fondue: Aged Cheddar Cheese, Piquillo Pepper and Mezcal\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127532\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4236-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4236-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4236-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4236-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4236-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4236-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4236-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4236-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4236-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4236-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4236-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fondue: Aged Cheddar Cheese, Piquillo Pepper and Mezcal \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The fondue almost could carry The Beehive by itself but it’s not the reason that almost the entire 2,300-square foot space is a striking gold color, which, if you squint is kind of the same shade of yellow as melted cheddar. Honey and honeycomb are the inspiration for the gold theme that Werney and his co-workers at a shared Mission studio, Floriana Interiors, used to design The Beehive. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you ever visited Range, you’ll recognize the narrow three-part configuration of The Beehive. The front part is the main bar for 13 guests with lots of natural light streaming in. Side-by-side barstool seating for 10 with a thin bar ledge runs along the wall opposite the bar.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127602\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_3650-new.jpg\" alt=\"The front bar at The Beehive\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127602\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_3650-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_3650-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_3650-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_3650-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_3650-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_3650-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_3650-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_3650-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_3650-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_3650-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_3650-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The front bar at The Beehive \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>A central corridor features high-top communal seating for 20, the restrooms and the open kitchen. What previously was Range’s main dining room is now the lounge with its own bar, couch-like seating for 50 and an intimate, dimly lit vibe. It still has just one tiny window slit that makes guests feel like they’re in a secluded bunker. With shiny walnut ceiling panels and candles on each table, dare we say it’s one sexy lounge. If you’re on a first date, stick to the front room. If it’s the third date—the lounge it is. If you’re on a double date with some friends, reserve the soon-to-open “\u003ca href=\"https://www.thebeehivesf.com/honeycomb-hideout-1\">Honeycomb Hideout\u003c/a>,” a discreet booth in the middle corridor that is hidden by a velvet curtain à la the secret booths at Sam’s Grill. The booked ahead experience will be separate from the main bar menu, with paired bites and drinks served in vintage cocktail trolleys. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127486\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3603-new.jpg\" alt=\"Central corridor features high-top communal seating\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127486\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3603-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3603-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3603-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3603-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3603-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3603-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3603-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3603-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3603-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3603-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3603-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Central corridor features high-top communal seating \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127482\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3581-new.jpg\" alt=\"Restroom\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127482\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3581-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3581-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3581-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3581-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3581-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3581-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3581-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3581-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3581-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3581-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3581-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Restroom \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127488\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3615-new.jpg\" alt=\"Honeycomb Hideout\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127488\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3615-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3615-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3615-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3615-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3615-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3615-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3615-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3615-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3615-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3615-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3615-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Honeycomb Hideout \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The front room boasts a gorgeous golden honeycomb-themed, brass-studded three-dimensional wall and all sorts of other gold flourishes from the cocktail shakers to the trim on the lamps to “The Beehive” logo emblazoned in handsome cursive above the center of the bar. More honeycomb flourishes in the lounge as a blue and gold glass overlay over mirrored walls. Werney made all sorts of custom furnishings and touches for both rooms that show the same whimsical touch that got 25 Lusk Esquire’s Best New Restaurant Design honor in 2011 (and \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfgate.com/news/article/President-Obama-Twenty-Five-Lusk-San-Francisco-8323330.php\">President Obama’s approval\u003c/a>), like marine blue-topped coffee tables for the lounge and pegboard above the front bar that curiously also looks like honeycomb in a more abstract way. He also managed to create a quartz-topped bar and its red leather bumper that is spacious enough and comfortable enough that guests can actually linger here for a couple rounds, dig into fondue, and not feel claustrophobic or make a mess on neighbors. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The smallest of decor details are pretty impressive, too. West collected lots of second hand art and items for Range and some have also carried over to The Beehive, like an old blood bank from Buffalo, New York that now holds mid-century soda bottles and stubby Coors bottles. The glass cocktail stirrers at the bar are actually re-purposed Botanist gin bottles given to Salehi by his friend who works with the brand. Each one lists the botanicals used in the gin. Don’t even try to memorize them unless you’re on a second martini.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127480\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3557-new.jpg\" alt=\"An old blood bank from Buffalo, New York that now holds mid-century soda bottles and stubby Coors bottles\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2880\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127480\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3557-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3557-new-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3557-new-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3557-new-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3557-new-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3557-new-1180x1770.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3557-new-960x1440.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3557-new-240x360.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3557-new-375x563.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3557-new-520x780.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">An old blood bank from Buffalo, New York that now holds mid-century soda bottles and stubby Coors bottles \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>After a few rounds of drinks and enough bites to be considered dinner, or at least tide you over until dinner, it’s time to think about \u003ca href=\"https://www.thebeehivesf.com/dessert\">dessert\u003c/a>. The fondue theme continues, of course, with that present day staple of weddings and prom dances: chocolate fondue with fruits and other dipping treats ($25). There’s a seasonal boozy float ($15) because, hey, this was the time period when root beer floats were a staple but a little booze seems more appropriate at a celebratory bar than root beer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The final sweet option is a fitting conclusion for a bar that recently opened in this time of turbulence and has a theme looking back on a period of deep division and unrest. Pineapple upside-down cake ($8) is fun and tropical, while also being chaotic and turned upside-down. Challenging times make us feel like life is upside-down and we seek any retreat that provides us a dose of fun — even if it’s just slices of pineapple representing an island getaway.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127550\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4375-new.jpg\" alt=\"Pineapple Upside-down Cake\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127550\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4375-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4375-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4375-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4375-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4375-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4375-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4375-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4375-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4375-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4375-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4375-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pineapple Upside-down Cake \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Uncertainty creates a need to escape and forget the upside-down world outside. For that, we now have The Beehive. It’s not fake news that Tang and fondue are groovy again in San Francisco. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127513\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3972-new.jpg\" alt=\"Most of The Beehive Crew (L to R): general manager Tristen Philippart de Foy, lead bartender Emilio Salehi, partner/chef Arnold Eric Wong, partner/designer Steve Werney, partner/chef Phil West, chef Byron Gee\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127513\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3972-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3972-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3972-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3972-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3972-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3972-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3972-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3972-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3972-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3972-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3972-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Most of The Beehive Crew (L to R): general manager Tristen Philippart de Foy, lead bartender Emilio Salehi, partner/chef Arnold Eric Wong, partner/designer Steve Werney, partner/chef Phil West, chef Byron Gee \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.thebeehivesf.com/\">\u003cstrong>The Beehive\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n842 Valencia St. \u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/The+Beehive/@37.7594044,-122.4238791,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f7e3da9be2791:0x5f5396b84ee4d5c0!8m2!3d37.7594044!4d-122.4216851\">MAP\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94110\u003cbr>\nHours: Mon-Wed: 5pm to 12am; Thu: 5pm to 2am; Fri-Sat: 3pm to 2am; Sun: 2pm to 10pm. Food is served until one hour before closing.\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/The-Beehive-SF-164311960990155/\">The Beehive\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nInstagram: \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thebeehivesf/\">@thebeehivesf\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nPrice Range: $$\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "The Beehive is a groovy trip back to the 60s in the Mission’s former Range location",
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"title": "Buzzy Valencia Street Gets a Swinging 60s Addition With The Beehive’s Debut | KQED",
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"nprByline": "\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/author/trevorfelch\">Trevor Felch\u003c/a> (writer), \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/author/wendy-goodfriend\">Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/a> (photos/video)",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cem>The Beehive is a groovy trip back to the 60s in the Mission’s former Range location\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Is there such a thing as “groovy cuisine”? I’m not talking about psychedelic-themed Ben and Jerry’s ice cream flavors or anything inspired by Austin Powers, like a \u003ca href=\"https://la.eater.com/2018/3/27/17165944/austin-powers-bar-glendale-electric-pussycat-coming\">pop-up bar\u003c/a> that is currently open in Los Angeles. Though the groovy 1960s overlapped greatly with the peak of hippie cuisine, a genre that recently was covered extensively by local food writer Jonathan Kauffman in \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/forum/2010101863775\">Hippie Food\u003c/a>, brown rice and mung bean sprouts aren’t groovy. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The term obviously has a 1960s connotation but it also evokes the same upbeat and positive manner of New Orleans’ relentless “let the good times roll” mentality. In other words, “groovy cuisine” should balance both a mindset of optimism in difficult times and a reference to a certain time period. You’ll find both gloriously in harmony at The Beehive, the Mission’s swinging and shiny new imbibing destination with equally noteworthy food. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127551\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4413-new.jpg\" alt=\"The Beehive exterior\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127551\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4413-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4413-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4413-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4413-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4413-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4413-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4413-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4413-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4413-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4413-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4413-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Beehive exterior \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127478\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3521-new.jpg\" alt=\"The Beehive interior lounge area\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127478\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3521-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3521-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3521-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3521-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3521-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3521-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3521-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3521-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3521-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3521-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3521-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Beehive interior lounge area \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Let’s be honest--nobody wants to go to a restaurant and actually order a glass of artificial powder and water. Or spam from the can. Or stacks of Ritz crackers from the cardboard box. Or another listless fondue with stale bread and sad vegetables for dipping. Or Swedish meatballs unless you’re desperate at Ikea. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All of these retro favorites, some specifically from the 1960s and others just mid-20th general food items, became so untrendy after that time period that newer generations have grown to embrace them and seek to make them trendy again. It’s the circle of canned food and powdered drinks life. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Local bars with strong food programs (Trick Dog, True Laurel, The Douglas Room, \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/126982/berkeley-classic-henrys-scores-a-touchdown-with-new-teams-menu-and-design-changes\">Henry’s\u003c/a> to name just a few) have tackled the subject of “bar food” with gusto and created a now ubiquitous “elevated bar food” genre that lifts up patty melts and chicken wings in the same way that pizza and meatloaf were given needed tweaks around the Bay Area by chefs during the comfort food craze of five to ten years ago. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Beehive aims to elevate 1960s cocktail party hors d’oeuvres but really extends from that by offering a mélange of those oft-forgotten classic (crudité with dip; pigs in a blanket; shrimp cocktail), general bar food given a twist (sliders; deviled eggs), and also period staples like fondue and Americanized Chinese food that could have been served in the 1960s at school cafeterias, football tailgates or eaten on a random night at home with David Cassidy and Shirley Jones on the TV. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127537\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4284-new.jpg\" alt=\"Trio of Deviled Eggs\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127537\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4284-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4284-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4284-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4284-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4284-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4284-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4284-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4284-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4284-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4284-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4284-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Trio of Deviled Eggs \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>These are all retro staples that have been fine-tuned, rethought and spruced up with a contemporary chef’s emphasis on higher quality, fresher ingredients. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127539\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4301-new.jpg\" alt=\"House-made “Spam” Rillette\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127539\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4301-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4301-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4301-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4301-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4301-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4301-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4301-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4301-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4301-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4301-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4301-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">House-made “Spam” Rillette \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>For example, there’s a plate of housemade “spam” rillette with pineapple chutney and “Ritz crackers” ($10) alongside Swedish meatballs ($11) on the “bites” menu. To change up the former, “spam” is a wedge of pork shoulder and bacon that really does have spam’s earthy-meaty flavor profile but exchanges the real thing’s blubbery, watery consistency, for the force meat-evoking, almost mousse-like texture that you’d expect of a typical pork or salmon rillettes. Those “Ritz crackers” are made in a pasta maker and have the buttery mouth feel of the real crackers without the harsh salt blast of each bite.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127531\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4221-new.jpg\" alt=\"Swedish Meatballs\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127531\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4221-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4221-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4221-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4221-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4221-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4221-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4221-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4221-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4221-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4221-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4221-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Swedish Meatballs \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>To improve the latter, The Beehive’s gluten-free meatballs skip the frequently cloying addition of breadcrumbs in the mix and have a pleasant balance of 60% pork and 40% beef, so they’re tender and perky but also have some juiciness to them like a burger at Nopa. Each meatball has some deft seasoning from ginger and nutmeg and resides in a pool of creamy gravy that boasts some unexpectedly intense beefy flavor to it. Following the cocktail party motif, the three meatballs each have a fondue stick in them. The witty catch is that each meatball is pretty massive, so there’s a caveman eating a turkey leg vibe to tackling one of these in one mammoth bite. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Are oversized Swedish meatballs proper cocktail party food? Definitely not but it’s pretty funny to imagine Don Draper tackling one with a Manhattan in his other hand.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Amongst the \u003ca href=\"https://www.thebeehivesf.com/cocktails\">dozen cocktails\u003c/a>, the “Gemini” (all cocktails are $13) is a smooth, not too icy slushie centered on housemade “Tang” with manzanilla sherry and, yet another trendy-untrendy-trendy again stalwart, Ketel One vodka. It tastes like…real Tang with the pronounced saline kick that is manzanilla sherry’s trademark. Honestly, it’s fascinating how dead-on the flavor of this “Tang” really is compared to the chemical-laden one but you can also taste the freshness of having real oranges involved.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127575\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_3964-new.jpg\" alt=\"Gemini cocktail\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2880\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127575\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_3964-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_3964-new-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_3964-new-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_3964-new-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_3964-new-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_3964-new-1180x1770.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_3964-new-960x1440.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_3964-new-240x360.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_3964-new-375x563.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_3964-new-520x780.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Gemini cocktail \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The Beehive’s period-specific vision is so sharply defined and the research and development must have been so daunting (an estimated 40 pounds of cheese were used for fondue experimenting) that you know The Beehive can’t be the product of industry rookies. And, it isn’t. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The bar is in the same venerable venue on Valencia next to the Mission Playground and Pool that housed the game-changing restaurant, Range, for a dozen years until its closing on New Year’s Eve of 2016. With Delfina and the original Slanted Door, Range helped transform the Mission into the dining juggernaut and frontline of gentrification neighborhood that it is today. Range’s chef and co-owner Phil West shares Partner duties at The Beehive with another celebrated chef, Arnold Eric Wong, and one of the city’s design maestros, Steve Werney. Hang with us as we breakdown the connections that make Wong and West seems like the well-connected Kevin Bacon’s of San Francisco restaurants. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127515\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4014-new.jpg\" alt=\"Partner/Chef Phil West in front of The Beehive\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127515\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4014-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4014-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4014-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4014-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4014-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4014-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4014-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4014-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4014-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4014-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4014-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Partner/Chef Phil West in front of The Beehive \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127576\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_3944-new.jpg\" alt=\"Partner/Chef Arnold Eric Wong\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127576\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_3944-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_3944-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_3944-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_3944-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_3944-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_3944-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_3944-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_3944-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_3944-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_3944-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_3944-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Partner/Chef Arnold Eric Wong \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127544\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4334-new.jpg\" alt=\"Partner/Designer Steve Werney\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127544\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4334-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4334-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4334-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4334-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4334-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4334-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4334-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4334-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4334-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4334-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4334-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Partner/Designer Steve Werney \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Wong, a Haight Ashbury native and now Berkeley resident, opened EOS in Cole Valley (a highly regarded Asian fusion restaurant at the peak of that trend in the late 1990s) and was the founding chef and partner of SoMa’s celebrated Bacar in the early 2000s. West met Wong at Bacar and the two separated for West to open Range with his wife, Cameron (whom he also met at EOS). Werney made a name for himself separately with the award-winning design of 25 Lusk but joined this duo and esteemed bar star Carlos Yturria (who met West and Wong at Bacar) for a formidable partnership quartet to open The Treasury, in the FiDi, in 2015. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The team’s set-up is different from almost any other bar or restaurant. You now know about the three partners but they also work in myriad forms with a full-time chef, general manager and lead bartender, all of whom have their own ideas and work together with the partners to fully complete the experience. It’s an unusual set of checks and balances for a bar or restaurant. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wong is a trained pastry chef, in addition to being one of the city’s A-list general chefs. So, he’ll consult on everything from the seasoning for the meatballs to butter in a pie crust to making the gums and syrups for the cocktails. West will offer thoughts on food but also does number crunching, design advice and, when necessary, sweep leaves from the entryway. They are heavily involved mentors who really let general manager Tristen Philippart de Foy (brought over from The Treasury), chef Byron Gee (The Rotunda at Neiman Marcus) and lead bartender Emilio Salehi (an under 30-years old cocktail-making prodigy who has worked at Whitechapel, Mourad and The Treasury) do the day-to-day work.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127479\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3544-new.jpg\" alt=\"General Manager Tristen Philippart de Foy at the back bar\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127479\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3544-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3544-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3544-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3544-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3544-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3544-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3544-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3544-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3544-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3544-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3544-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">General Manager Tristen Philippart de Foy at the back bar \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127583\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1509px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4166-new1.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Byron Gee in The Beehive's open kitchen\" width=\"1509\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127583\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4166-new1.jpg 1509w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4166-new1-160x136.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4166-new1-800x679.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4166-new1-768x651.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4166-new1-1020x865.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4166-new1-1200x1018.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4166-new1-1180x1001.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4166-new1-960x814.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4166-new1-240x204.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4166-new1-375x318.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4166-new1-520x441.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1509px) 100vw, 1509px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Byron Gee in The Beehive's open kitchen \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127507\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3938-new.jpg\" alt=\"Lead Bartender Emilio Salehi\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127507\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3938-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3938-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3938-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3938-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3938-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3938-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3938-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3938-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3938-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3938-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3938-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Lead Bartender Emilio Salehi \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>If you frequent The Treasury and dined at Range, you’ll see how there’s a distinct style that has emerged in making each venue a consistently likeable place. They have upbeat vibes but aren’t trying to be hip or innovative. The Treasury is a glamorous, celebratory space with no attitude. Range was equal parts high-end and relaxed. You could wear a suit and tie or jeans and a t-shirt to both. Drinks at The Treasury by Yturria and at Range (many of its ex-bartenders have gone on to prominent roles like Jeff Lyons at The Third Rail in the Dogpatch) are clean and exciting, but never wild. That connecting line continues to the food, whether it’s Wong’s albacore and Roncevaux cheese tuna melt at The Treasury or West’s beloved coffee-rubbed pork shoulder at Range. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Salehi says he aims for “approachable cocktails that are also cocktails for cocktail drinkers.” That concept pretty much sums up the unifying dining and drinking experiences created at Range and The Treasury, and now at The Beehive: approachable, high quality and clever.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127504\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3897-new.jpg\" alt=\"The Beehive cocktails (L to R): Thunderbird, Ipanema Gold, Bikini Drifter, Rising Sun\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127504\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3897-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3897-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3897-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3897-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3897-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3897-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3897-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3897-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3897-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3897-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3897-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Beehive cocktails (L to R): Thunderbird, Ipanema Gold, Bikini Drifter, Rising Sun \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Speaking of approachable but completely refashioned drinks, we’ve come this far and not mentioned the one part of The Beehive that, ahem, has created the most opening buzz. At its core, the “Bikini Drifter” is a piña colada. For the Instagram crowd and novelty drink seekers, it’s the purple drink. To the cocktail professional, it’s a fascinating study of a frothy, tropical cocktail with a bizarre \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Falernum\">falernum\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127500\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3847-new.jpg\" alt=\"Lead Bartender Emilio Salehi puts the finishing touches on the Bikini Drifter\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2880\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127500\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3847-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3847-new-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3847-new-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3847-new-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3847-new-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3847-new-1180x1770.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3847-new-960x1440.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3847-new-240x360.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3847-new-375x563.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3847-new-520x780.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Lead Bartender Emilio Salehi puts the finishing touches on the Bikini Drifter \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Salehi wanted to express the intensity of the \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nuclear_testing_at_Bikini_Atoll\">Bikini Atoll\u003c/a> atomic bomb testing program of the mid 20th century and the striking colors of the lagoon surrounding it. So, he makes a falernum (a low ABV rum-based syrup) with anchan (butterfly pea flower), chamomile and hibiscus that combines to give a purple-hued jolt when poured onto the frothy drink’s coconut-pineapple-rum-tequila body built on ice pebbles. The syrup eventually collects at the bottom and does have a bit of a mushroom cloud appearance in its tall piña colada glass with the white part of the cocktail rising above the purple.\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/x5-91NB7BqI'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/x5-91NB7BqI'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cp>The “Ipanema Gold” isn’t just another play on a Caipirinha. Salehi was a saxophone player while growing up and an avid fan of mid-century Brazilian Bossa Nova music, so he wanted something fun and unexpected with cachaça as the base. Then Salehi adds a mango gum (made by Wong) that incorporates galangal and makrut leaf lime. It’s vital to the drink like how a sauce might finish a duck entrée—a culinary mentality transferred to cocktail designing that Salehi learned from the many talented cooks at Mourad. The drink is rounded out by yogurt liqueur and a lemon and lime zest garnish that represents—you got it—the flag of Brazil. \u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/pFqpHOJ2pCE'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/pFqpHOJ2pCE'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127554\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8475-new.jpg\" alt=\"Ipanema Gold cocktail\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127554\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8475-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8475-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8475-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8475-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8475-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8475-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8475-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8475-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8475-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8475-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8475-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ipanema Gold cocktail \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>For a fun nod to San Francisco cocktail history, a pair of cocktails are named for the gay bars that existed in this venue before it was Range: the “Fickle Fox” (a smooth, boozy sipper of cognac, Cappelletti liqueur, Gran Classico and Cocchi di Torino vermouth) and the “Crystal Pistol” (a refreshing, bubbly ensemble of vodka, limoncello, Suze liqueur, sparkling wine and soda). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Towing the line between citrusy-light and spirit-centric, The Beehive’s egg white sour is the gin-based “Beauty Mark” with a distinct cardamom flavor, enhanced by tangerine, cacao and lime. The “Thunderbird” also resides in this category with the bar’s private barrel Avion Reposado tequila serving as the base for a bergamot thyme marmalade (again, made by Wong, using sous vide techniques), passion fruit, Campari, lime, and tonic. For the namesake “The Beehive” cocktail, sarsaparilla honey adds root beer’s malty-vanilla notes to counter the herbs of Botanist gin and the aggressive spice of ginger.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127495\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3698-new.jpg\" alt=\"Thunderbird cocktail\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127495\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3698-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3698-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3698-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3698-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3698-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3698-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3698-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3698-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3698-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3698-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3698-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Thunderbird cocktail \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/TSv_t1NwGWg'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/TSv_t1NwGWg'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cp>Like The Treasury, The Beehive uses a lot more sherry (Yturria is the city’s sherry guru) and vermouth than your average cocktail bar. Inspired by \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peanut_butter,_banana_and_bacon_sandwich\">Elvis’ beloved sandwich of choice\u003c/a>, the “Hound Dog” uses an oloroso sherry-vermouth blend to balance out peanut-washed bourbon, served on a large rock, and garnished with a caramelized banana chip. The Beehive puts together its own vermouth blend from a pair of vermouths and an amaro to use in many off-menu classic cocktail standards. It also appears on the menu in the “Rising Sun,” a dense, layered rendition of a scotch Manhattan served up in a \u003ca href=\"https://www.diffordsguide.com/encyclopedia/329/cocktails/cocktail-glassware\">Nick & Nora glass\u003c/a> (very “Mad Men,” indeed) with pear brandy, Licor 43 from Spain and Dewar’s scotch, a staple of that time period. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127498\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3818-new.jpg\" alt=\"Rising Sun cocktail\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127498\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3818-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3818-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3818-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3818-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3818-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3818-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3818-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3818-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3818-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3818-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3818-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Rising Sun cocktail \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Outside of cocktails, there is a selection of high balls, led by a Suntory Whisky toki served from a machine by the bar. Guests will also find four beers on tap and 11 wines poured by-the-glass. If you’re really looking for the best wine, the ones to get are amongst the 10 bottles like a Selbach Oster Riesling Kabinett or Young Inglewood’s Cabernet Sauvignon from one of the Napa Valley’s most exciting young wineries. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All of these cocktail details mean that The Beehive really is first and foremost a bar, right? Yes and no. It really is hard to tell if this is a bar-restaurant or a restaurant-bar. Take your pick.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Outside of fondue, \u003ca href=\"https://www.thebeehivesf.com/bites\">the food menu\u003c/a> is composed of what it calls “bites” and each plate really would be the definition of “small plates” at all the neighborhood restaurants around town who focus on that sharing is caring style of eating. It’s a pretty simple menu layout, being split in five categories: meat, sea, snacks, veggie and fondue. The Swedish meatballs and spam rillettes share “meat” space with the signature food item from The Treasury—puff pastry-wrapped sausages by Meat by Pete (a local butcher who has worked extensively with Foreign Cinema) that are a faithful but improved rendition of pigs in a blanket ($9) with Mendocino mustard for dipping.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127542\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4319-new.jpg\" alt=\"Treasury Pigs in a Blanket\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127542\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4319-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4319-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4319-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4319-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4319-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4319-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4319-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4319-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4319-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4319-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4319-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Treasury Pigs in a Blanket \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>From the “sea,” guests can opt for a puffy batter-fried fish and tartar sauce slider ($5); sake-steamed mussels with Thai chilis ($15); and a Mission shrimp cocktail ($13) with avocado that is like the marriage of ceviche and shrimp cocktail. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127547\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4340-new.jpg\" alt=\"Mission Shrimp Cocktail\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2880\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127547\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4340-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4340-new-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4340-new-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4340-new-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4340-new-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4340-new-1180x1770.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4340-new-960x1440.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4340-new-240x360.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4340-new-375x563.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4340-new-520x780.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mission Shrimp Cocktail \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Crudité ($10) is far more exciting than it sounds with various vegetables ready to be dunked in a bright green goddess dip. The other “veggie” dishes are more contemporary or seasonal in spirit with roasted beets, Bellwether Farms ricotta and a pistachio-based dukkha spice and nut blend ($9) channeling the former and charred asparagus with dashi aioli ($13) representing the latter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127541\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4314-new.jpg\" alt=\"Crudité\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127541\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4314-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4314-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4314-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4314-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4314-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4314-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4314-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4314-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4314-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4314-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4314-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Crudité \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127557\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8552-new.jpg\" alt=\"Roasted Beets with Pistachio Dukkha and Bellwether Farms Ricotta\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127557\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8552-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8552-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8552-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8552-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8552-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8552-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8552-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8552-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8552-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8552-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8552-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Roasted Beets with Pistachio Dukkha and Bellwether Farms Ricotta \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“Snacks” include beef tallow-fried French fries with ketchup and mayonnaise ($8); French onion powder-dusted popcorn ($4); rock shrimp-stuffed egg foo young fritters ($11); and a trio of deviled eggs ($5) that features a scotch egg-like fried one, a fiery Tabasco-laced one, and a more conventional styled egg.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The pair of fondues ($26 for a small, $40 for a large) arrive in vessels that look like the turret of a castle. One fondue base is a bright, slightly funky aged cheddar mix with piquillo pepper and mezcal. The other is a little more traditional but more nutty and earthy thanks to Kaltbach cave-aged cheese from Switzerland and a subtle hit of barnyard flavor from saison beer added to the mix. Each fondue comes with cubes of Bakers of Paris bread, potatoes and broccoli (beware, the last one drips lots of cheese since it isn’t an absorber!). \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127532\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4236-new.jpg\" alt=\"Fondue: Aged Cheddar Cheese, Piquillo Pepper and Mezcal\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127532\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4236-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4236-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4236-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4236-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4236-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4236-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4236-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4236-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4236-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4236-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4236-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fondue: Aged Cheddar Cheese, Piquillo Pepper and Mezcal \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The fondue almost could carry The Beehive by itself but it’s not the reason that almost the entire 2,300-square foot space is a striking gold color, which, if you squint is kind of the same shade of yellow as melted cheddar. Honey and honeycomb are the inspiration for the gold theme that Werney and his co-workers at a shared Mission studio, Floriana Interiors, used to design The Beehive. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you ever visited Range, you’ll recognize the narrow three-part configuration of The Beehive. The front part is the main bar for 13 guests with lots of natural light streaming in. Side-by-side barstool seating for 10 with a thin bar ledge runs along the wall opposite the bar.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127602\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_3650-new.jpg\" alt=\"The front bar at The Beehive\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127602\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_3650-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_3650-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_3650-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_3650-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_3650-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_3650-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_3650-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_3650-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_3650-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_3650-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_3650-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The front bar at The Beehive \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>A central corridor features high-top communal seating for 20, the restrooms and the open kitchen. What previously was Range’s main dining room is now the lounge with its own bar, couch-like seating for 50 and an intimate, dimly lit vibe. It still has just one tiny window slit that makes guests feel like they’re in a secluded bunker. With shiny walnut ceiling panels and candles on each table, dare we say it’s one sexy lounge. If you’re on a first date, stick to the front room. If it’s the third date—the lounge it is. If you’re on a double date with some friends, reserve the soon-to-open “\u003ca href=\"https://www.thebeehivesf.com/honeycomb-hideout-1\">Honeycomb Hideout\u003c/a>,” a discreet booth in the middle corridor that is hidden by a velvet curtain à la the secret booths at Sam’s Grill. The booked ahead experience will be separate from the main bar menu, with paired bites and drinks served in vintage cocktail trolleys. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127486\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3603-new.jpg\" alt=\"Central corridor features high-top communal seating\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127486\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3603-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3603-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3603-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3603-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3603-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3603-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3603-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3603-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3603-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3603-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3603-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Central corridor features high-top communal seating \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127482\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3581-new.jpg\" alt=\"Restroom\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127482\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3581-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3581-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3581-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3581-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3581-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3581-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3581-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3581-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3581-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3581-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3581-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Restroom \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127488\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3615-new.jpg\" alt=\"Honeycomb Hideout\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127488\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3615-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3615-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3615-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3615-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3615-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3615-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3615-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3615-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3615-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3615-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3615-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Honeycomb Hideout \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The front room boasts a gorgeous golden honeycomb-themed, brass-studded three-dimensional wall and all sorts of other gold flourishes from the cocktail shakers to the trim on the lamps to “The Beehive” logo emblazoned in handsome cursive above the center of the bar. More honeycomb flourishes in the lounge as a blue and gold glass overlay over mirrored walls. Werney made all sorts of custom furnishings and touches for both rooms that show the same whimsical touch that got 25 Lusk Esquire’s Best New Restaurant Design honor in 2011 (and \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfgate.com/news/article/President-Obama-Twenty-Five-Lusk-San-Francisco-8323330.php\">President Obama’s approval\u003c/a>), like marine blue-topped coffee tables for the lounge and pegboard above the front bar that curiously also looks like honeycomb in a more abstract way. He also managed to create a quartz-topped bar and its red leather bumper that is spacious enough and comfortable enough that guests can actually linger here for a couple rounds, dig into fondue, and not feel claustrophobic or make a mess on neighbors. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The smallest of decor details are pretty impressive, too. West collected lots of second hand art and items for Range and some have also carried over to The Beehive, like an old blood bank from Buffalo, New York that now holds mid-century soda bottles and stubby Coors bottles. The glass cocktail stirrers at the bar are actually re-purposed Botanist gin bottles given to Salehi by his friend who works with the brand. Each one lists the botanicals used in the gin. Don’t even try to memorize them unless you’re on a second martini.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127480\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3557-new.jpg\" alt=\"An old blood bank from Buffalo, New York that now holds mid-century soda bottles and stubby Coors bottles\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2880\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127480\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3557-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3557-new-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3557-new-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3557-new-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3557-new-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3557-new-1180x1770.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3557-new-960x1440.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3557-new-240x360.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3557-new-375x563.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3557-new-520x780.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">An old blood bank from Buffalo, New York that now holds mid-century soda bottles and stubby Coors bottles \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>After a few rounds of drinks and enough bites to be considered dinner, or at least tide you over until dinner, it’s time to think about \u003ca href=\"https://www.thebeehivesf.com/dessert\">dessert\u003c/a>. The fondue theme continues, of course, with that present day staple of weddings and prom dances: chocolate fondue with fruits and other dipping treats ($25). There’s a seasonal boozy float ($15) because, hey, this was the time period when root beer floats were a staple but a little booze seems more appropriate at a celebratory bar than root beer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The final sweet option is a fitting conclusion for a bar that recently opened in this time of turbulence and has a theme looking back on a period of deep division and unrest. Pineapple upside-down cake ($8) is fun and tropical, while also being chaotic and turned upside-down. Challenging times make us feel like life is upside-down and we seek any retreat that provides us a dose of fun — even if it’s just slices of pineapple representing an island getaway.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127550\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4375-new.jpg\" alt=\"Pineapple Upside-down Cake\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127550\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4375-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4375-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4375-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4375-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4375-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4375-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4375-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4375-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4375-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4375-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_4375-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pineapple Upside-down Cake \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Uncertainty creates a need to escape and forget the upside-down world outside. For that, we now have The Beehive. It’s not fake news that Tang and fondue are groovy again in San Francisco. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127513\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3972-new.jpg\" alt=\"Most of The Beehive Crew (L to R): general manager Tristen Philippart de Foy, lead bartender Emilio Salehi, partner/chef Arnold Eric Wong, partner/designer Steve Werney, partner/chef Phil West, chef Byron Gee\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127513\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3972-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3972-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3972-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3972-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3972-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3972-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3972-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3972-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3972-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3972-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3972-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Most of The Beehive Crew (L to R): general manager Tristen Philippart de Foy, lead bartender Emilio Salehi, partner/chef Arnold Eric Wong, partner/designer Steve Werney, partner/chef Phil West, chef Byron Gee \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.thebeehivesf.com/\">\u003cstrong>The Beehive\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n842 Valencia St. \u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/The+Beehive/@37.7594044,-122.4238791,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f7e3da9be2791:0x5f5396b84ee4d5c0!8m2!3d37.7594044!4d-122.4216851\">MAP\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94110\u003cbr>\nHours: Mon-Wed: 5pm to 12am; Thu: 5pm to 2am; Fri-Sat: 3pm to 2am; Sun: 2pm to 10pm. Food is served until one hour before closing.\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/The-Beehive-SF-164311960990155/\">The Beehive\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nInstagram: \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thebeehivesf/\">@thebeehivesf\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nPrice Range: $$\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Table Talk: Sunday Nights Are Now Meat & Three Time, a Top Tempura Chef from Japan Is Coming, Check Out One of My Favorite Sandwich Spots",
"title": "Table Talk: Sunday Nights Are Now Meat & Three Time, a Top Tempura Chef from Japan Is Coming, Check Out One of My Favorite Sandwich Spots",
"headTitle": "KQED’s Table Talk | Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>Thanks for the warm welcome to Bay Area Bites! Last week was the \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/127072/table-talk-retro-vibes-at-a-new-mission-bar-on-a-steak-out-fab-food-events\">debut\u003c/a> of my first weekly Table Talk column, and I’m happy to be here with restaurant news, tips, and updates for you every Monday. This week, I have some hearty eats for you—from a new meat & three menu to some of my fave hefty deli sandwiches—plus a special guest tempura chef is visiting from Japan, and a fun Kentucky Derby party.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Town Hall Meat & Three\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/Town+Hall+Restaurant/@37.7894465,-122.3972687,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x80858064b198afb3:0xc5343d1bddddfff!8m2!3d37.7894465!4d-122.3950747\">342 Howard St., San Francisco\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Looking for a spot to have an ample Southern Sunday supper? \u003ca href=\"https://townhallsf.com\">Town Hall\u003c/a> in SoMa—which is approaching their 15th anniversary this November, so you know they’re doing something right—is now offering a Southern classic \u003cstrong>Meat & Three \u003c/strong>\u003ca href=\"https://townhallsf.com/menus/sunday-meat-n-threes-dinner\">menu\u003c/a> for Sunday dinner service (5pm–9pm). They’ve been offering an edited version of a communal-style meat & three menu for 2–3 people on their dinner menu, and now they’re expanding it to quite the to-do on Sundays.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Luncheonettes in the South first started offering meat & threes to their working class customers who wanted a taste of home cooking for lunch in the 1920s. Town Hall’s dinnertime version is $45, and is even more abundant than a meat & three, so come hungry. It comes with your choice of starter: chicken andouille gumbo or butter lettuces with apples, candied walnuts, and blue cheese dressing. For your main, you can try dishes like their famous buttermilk fried chicken (the recipe has been updated a bit, and is as delicious as ever), country pork chops with a tangy rhubarb \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mostarda\">mostarda\u003c/a>, St. Louis ribs with Jack Daniels BBQ sauce, or grilled Skuna Bay salmon with chow-chow relish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127441\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1620px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/TownHall-MeatandThree-friedchicken-new.jpg\" alt=\"Town Hall’s fried chicken is consistently a highlight.\" width=\"1620\" height=\"1080\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127441\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/TownHall-MeatandThree-friedchicken-new.jpg 1620w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/TownHall-MeatandThree-friedchicken-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/TownHall-MeatandThree-friedchicken-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/TownHall-MeatandThree-friedchicken-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/TownHall-MeatandThree-friedchicken-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/TownHall-MeatandThree-friedchicken-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/TownHall-MeatandThree-friedchicken-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/TownHall-MeatandThree-friedchicken-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/TownHall-MeatandThree-friedchicken-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/TownHall-MeatandThree-friedchicken-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/TownHall-MeatandThree-friedchicken-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1620px) 100vw, 1620px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Town Hall’s fried chicken is consistently a highlight. \u003ccite>(Nader Khouri)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Your three sides should include their warm jalapeño cornbread, and you’ll note chefs (and brothers) Mitchell and Steven Rosenthal’s love of New Orleans in the smoked andouille jambalaya. Seasonal sides like grilled asparagus or spring peas with country ham keep it local, while crispy fried okra keeps it classic. And for dessert, you may get key lime pie (or carrot cake may be offered). They also have kids and vegetarian options, so all are welcome. If you want to go whole hog (har), you can order their country ham tasting platter (three for $39). And since Sundays are mellow downtown, you’ll get lucky with parking too. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127438\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/hitachino-counter-new.jpg\" alt=\"Eight lucky guests will be dining on tempura at the counter of Hitachino with visiting chef Hitoshi Arai.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127438\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/hitachino-counter-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/hitachino-counter-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/hitachino-counter-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/hitachino-counter-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/hitachino-counter-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/hitachino-counter-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/hitachino-counter-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/hitachino-counter-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/hitachino-counter-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/hitachino-counter-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/hitachino-counter-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Eight lucky guests will be dining on tempura at the counter of Hitachino with visiting chef Hitoshi Arai. \u003ccite>(\u003ca href=\"http://tablehopper.com\">tablehopper.com\u003c/a>))\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>Tasting menu by chef Hitoshi Arai at Hitachino Beer & Wagyu\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/Hitachino+Beer+%26+Wagyu/@37.7876852,-122.4145049,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x8085808e18dbbabd:0x60229fc5d49f96d0!8m2!3d37.7876852!4d-122.4123109\">639 Post St., San Francisco\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The ANA (All Nippon Airways) Air Restaurant team is back with another special event, featuring a \u003cstrong>guest chef from Japan\u003c/strong>: this time it’s chef \u003cstrong>Hitoshi Arai from Tempura Tenko\u003c/strong>, one of Tokyo’s top tempura restaurants (his 12-seat restaurant is in the city’s historic Kagurazaka district). For his San Francisco debut, he’s going to be serving an extensive tasting menu at \u003ca href=\"http://www.hitachinosf.com\">Hitachino Beer & Wagyu\u003c/a> near Union Square, with host chef Noriyuki Sugie. The menu (which can change) will include Kobachi-style appetizer platters (7 total pieces), salad with local vegetables, seafood tempura (6 pieces), vegetable tempura (6 pieces), small tendon and miso soup with clams and chives, and dessert. It may sound like a lot of food, but chef Arai uses white sesame oil, which reportedly tastes fresh and lighter. He’s also going to be highlighting San Francisco seasonal ingredients.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dinner \u003ca href=\"https://www.eventbrite.com/e/tempura-tenko-hitachino-beer-special-dinner-tickets-45527255246?mc_eid=58dc7977ac&mc_cid=ce2ab9869f\">tickets\u003c/a> are $250 and the meal is expected to last 2.5 hours. You can also add a Hitachino beer and sake pairing (3 sakes, 3 beers) for $65. It’s an intimate affair—you’ll sit at the counter (8 guests total), with just 32 spots available for his entire visit (May 14 and May 15, 5:30pm and 8:30pm). The seatings are at 5:30pm or 8:30pm, and the dinner is expected to last approximately 2.5 hours. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127437\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/comstock-exterior-new.jpg\" alt=\"No need to head to Churchill Downs for the Derby (and all the hats)—Comstock Saloon is ready to host you! \" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127437\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/comstock-exterior-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/comstock-exterior-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/comstock-exterior-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/comstock-exterior-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/comstock-exterior-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/comstock-exterior-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/comstock-exterior-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/comstock-exterior-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/comstock-exterior-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/comstock-exterior-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/comstock-exterior-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">No need to head to Churchill Downs for the Derby (and all the hats)—Comstock Saloon is ready to host you! \u003ccite>(Natalie Darville)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>The Kentucky Derby at Comstock Saloon\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/Comstock+Saloon/@37.7969298,-122.4077562,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808580f4ecc0c2d7:0xffee9ed9fd722364!8m2!3d37.7969298!4d-122.4055622\">155 Columbus Ave., San Francisco\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Anyone who loves the \u003cstrong>Kentucky Derby\u003c/strong> (and all its mint juleps and big hats) will want to attend \u003ca href=\"https://comstocksaloon.com/\">Comstock Saloon\u003c/a>'s annual Kentucky Derby event on Saturday May 5 (1pm–4pm). While watching the live stream of the race (“The Greatest Two Minutes in Sports!”), there will be plenty of themed cocktails, food specials from chef Jason Raffin, and here’s the extra-fun part: they host two best-dressed contests! You can try to win “Best Hat” and “Dandiest Fellow,” so be prepared, people really turn it out. There will also be race “betting,” with all betting proceeds going to the \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfmfoodbank.org/\">SF-Marin Food Bank\u003c/a>, and Comstock will of course project a live streaming of the Kentucky Derby race. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127440\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/lordstanley-miso-spinach-new.jpg\" alt=\"The miso-spinach dip at Lord Stanley is a thing of full flavor beauty. \" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/lordstanley-miso-spinach-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/lordstanley-miso-spinach-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/lordstanley-miso-spinach-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/lordstanley-miso-spinach-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/lordstanley-miso-spinach-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/lordstanley-miso-spinach-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/lordstanley-miso-spinach-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/lordstanley-miso-spinach-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/lordstanley-miso-spinach-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/lordstanley-miso-spinach-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/lordstanley-miso-spinach-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The miso-spinach dip at Lord Stanley is a thing of full flavor beauty. \u003ccite>(\u003ca href=\"http://tablehopper.com\">tablehopper.com\u003c/a>)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>Happy Hour at Lord Stanley\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/Lord+Stanley/@37.7957635,-122.4242195,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808580e99a9bd8bd:0x6fb8553da38ee20a!8m2!3d37.7957635!4d-122.4220255\">2065 Polk St., San Francisco\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Looking for a chic spot to enjoy happy hour? Carrie and Rupert Blease of \u003ca href=\"http://www.lordstanleysf.com\">Lord Stanley\u003c/a> in Russian Hill have just launched a new happy hour deal that will include a coupe of bubbles from their selection of small producers and an appetizer for just $15 from 5:30pm–7pm. Some potential and rotating pairings include a glass of Le Sot de L’Ange “Sottise” rosé with trout \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blini\">blinis\u003c/a> with locally foraged seaweed; Bourgeois Diaz 3C Cuvée Champagne with grilled asparagus and miso spinach dip (that dip is incredible, just saying!); or Suriol rosé cava Penedès with wagyu tartare and horseradish pita. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127439\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/limoncello-eggplant-parm-new.jpg\" alt=\"Meet the eggplant Parm at Limoncello.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2399\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127439\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/limoncello-eggplant-parm-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/limoncello-eggplant-parm-new-160x200.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/limoncello-eggplant-parm-new-800x1000.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/limoncello-eggplant-parm-new-768x960.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/limoncello-eggplant-parm-new-1020x1274.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/limoncello-eggplant-parm-new-960x1200.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/limoncello-eggplant-parm-new-1180x1474.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/limoncello-eggplant-parm-new-240x300.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/limoncello-eggplant-parm-new-375x469.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/limoncello-eggplant-parm-new-520x650.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Meet the eggplant Parm at Limoncello. \u003ccite>(\u003ca href=\"http://tablehopper.com\">tablehopper.com\u003c/a>)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>Quality Sandwiches from Limoncello\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/Limoncello/@37.787474,-122.425873,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x8085809578b0ac9f:0x65abdae89470888c!8m2!3d37.787474!4d-122.423679\">1400 Sutter St., San Francisco\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is for my fellow sandwich lovers: have you tried any of the quality sandwiches from \u003ca href=\"http://www.limoncellosf.com\">Limoncello\u003c/a>, the corner deli that opened a little over a year ago at Franklin and Sutter (maybe you’ve whizzed by it in your car?). Well, as the daughter of a former deli owner, it makes me happy to see such a clean and well-stocked case, and the friendly owner Jalal Heydari makes well-stuffed and assembled sandwiches with love. It’s picnic and festival season, so here’s your next sandwich supplier!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are all kinds of combos on the menu, from the Siciliano (ham, salami, mortadella, and provolone cheese with salt and pepper, oil and vinegar) to the Calabrese (dry hot coppa, cured pork shoulder rubbed with red cayenne pepper, fresh mozzarella cheese, mixed greens, sun-dried tomato, oil and vinegar)—but when they ask if you want it spicy, be careful because their peperoncino spread is really feisty. I also love their eggplant Parm, it’s a balanced sandwich and not loaded with too much breading and sauce. The ciabatta from Royal Bakery is pillowy and fresh, and delivery is also lightning fast (I use Uber Eats—you can \u003ca href=\"http://ubr.to/EatsGiveGet\">get $5 off your first order\u003c/a> with my code: eats-ubertablehopper). But if you go in person, the grocery section of his store also has some fun items, including that peperoncino spread. Buon appetito! \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Thanks for the warm welcome to Bay Area Bites! Last week was the \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/127072/table-talk-retro-vibes-at-a-new-mission-bar-on-a-steak-out-fab-food-events\">debut\u003c/a> of my first weekly Table Talk column, and I’m happy to be here with restaurant news, tips, and updates for you every Monday. This week, I have some hearty eats for you—from a new meat & three menu to some of my fave hefty deli sandwiches—plus a special guest tempura chef is visiting from Japan, and a fun Kentucky Derby party.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Town Hall Meat & Three\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/Town+Hall+Restaurant/@37.7894465,-122.3972687,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x80858064b198afb3:0xc5343d1bddddfff!8m2!3d37.7894465!4d-122.3950747\">342 Howard St., San Francisco\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Looking for a spot to have an ample Southern Sunday supper? \u003ca href=\"https://townhallsf.com\">Town Hall\u003c/a> in SoMa—which is approaching their 15th anniversary this November, so you know they’re doing something right—is now offering a Southern classic \u003cstrong>Meat & Three \u003c/strong>\u003ca href=\"https://townhallsf.com/menus/sunday-meat-n-threes-dinner\">menu\u003c/a> for Sunday dinner service (5pm–9pm). They’ve been offering an edited version of a communal-style meat & three menu for 2–3 people on their dinner menu, and now they’re expanding it to quite the to-do on Sundays.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Luncheonettes in the South first started offering meat & threes to their working class customers who wanted a taste of home cooking for lunch in the 1920s. Town Hall’s dinnertime version is $45, and is even more abundant than a meat & three, so come hungry. It comes with your choice of starter: chicken andouille gumbo or butter lettuces with apples, candied walnuts, and blue cheese dressing. For your main, you can try dishes like their famous buttermilk fried chicken (the recipe has been updated a bit, and is as delicious as ever), country pork chops with a tangy rhubarb \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mostarda\">mostarda\u003c/a>, St. Louis ribs with Jack Daniels BBQ sauce, or grilled Skuna Bay salmon with chow-chow relish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127441\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1620px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/TownHall-MeatandThree-friedchicken-new.jpg\" alt=\"Town Hall’s fried chicken is consistently a highlight.\" width=\"1620\" height=\"1080\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127441\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/TownHall-MeatandThree-friedchicken-new.jpg 1620w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/TownHall-MeatandThree-friedchicken-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/TownHall-MeatandThree-friedchicken-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/TownHall-MeatandThree-friedchicken-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/TownHall-MeatandThree-friedchicken-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/TownHall-MeatandThree-friedchicken-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/TownHall-MeatandThree-friedchicken-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/TownHall-MeatandThree-friedchicken-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/TownHall-MeatandThree-friedchicken-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/TownHall-MeatandThree-friedchicken-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/TownHall-MeatandThree-friedchicken-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1620px) 100vw, 1620px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Town Hall’s fried chicken is consistently a highlight. \u003ccite>(Nader Khouri)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Your three sides should include their warm jalapeño cornbread, and you’ll note chefs (and brothers) Mitchell and Steven Rosenthal’s love of New Orleans in the smoked andouille jambalaya. Seasonal sides like grilled asparagus or spring peas with country ham keep it local, while crispy fried okra keeps it classic. And for dessert, you may get key lime pie (or carrot cake may be offered). They also have kids and vegetarian options, so all are welcome. If you want to go whole hog (har), you can order their country ham tasting platter (three for $39). And since Sundays are mellow downtown, you’ll get lucky with parking too. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127438\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/hitachino-counter-new.jpg\" alt=\"Eight lucky guests will be dining on tempura at the counter of Hitachino with visiting chef Hitoshi Arai.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127438\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/hitachino-counter-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/hitachino-counter-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/hitachino-counter-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/hitachino-counter-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/hitachino-counter-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/hitachino-counter-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/hitachino-counter-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/hitachino-counter-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/hitachino-counter-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/hitachino-counter-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/hitachino-counter-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Eight lucky guests will be dining on tempura at the counter of Hitachino with visiting chef Hitoshi Arai. \u003ccite>(\u003ca href=\"http://tablehopper.com\">tablehopper.com\u003c/a>))\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>Tasting menu by chef Hitoshi Arai at Hitachino Beer & Wagyu\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/Hitachino+Beer+%26+Wagyu/@37.7876852,-122.4145049,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x8085808e18dbbabd:0x60229fc5d49f96d0!8m2!3d37.7876852!4d-122.4123109\">639 Post St., San Francisco\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The ANA (All Nippon Airways) Air Restaurant team is back with another special event, featuring a \u003cstrong>guest chef from Japan\u003c/strong>: this time it’s chef \u003cstrong>Hitoshi Arai from Tempura Tenko\u003c/strong>, one of Tokyo’s top tempura restaurants (his 12-seat restaurant is in the city’s historic Kagurazaka district). For his San Francisco debut, he’s going to be serving an extensive tasting menu at \u003ca href=\"http://www.hitachinosf.com\">Hitachino Beer & Wagyu\u003c/a> near Union Square, with host chef Noriyuki Sugie. The menu (which can change) will include Kobachi-style appetizer platters (7 total pieces), salad with local vegetables, seafood tempura (6 pieces), vegetable tempura (6 pieces), small tendon and miso soup with clams and chives, and dessert. It may sound like a lot of food, but chef Arai uses white sesame oil, which reportedly tastes fresh and lighter. He’s also going to be highlighting San Francisco seasonal ingredients.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dinner \u003ca href=\"https://www.eventbrite.com/e/tempura-tenko-hitachino-beer-special-dinner-tickets-45527255246?mc_eid=58dc7977ac&mc_cid=ce2ab9869f\">tickets\u003c/a> are $250 and the meal is expected to last 2.5 hours. You can also add a Hitachino beer and sake pairing (3 sakes, 3 beers) for $65. It’s an intimate affair—you’ll sit at the counter (8 guests total), with just 32 spots available for his entire visit (May 14 and May 15, 5:30pm and 8:30pm). The seatings are at 5:30pm or 8:30pm, and the dinner is expected to last approximately 2.5 hours. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127437\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/comstock-exterior-new.jpg\" alt=\"No need to head to Churchill Downs for the Derby (and all the hats)—Comstock Saloon is ready to host you! \" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127437\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/comstock-exterior-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/comstock-exterior-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/comstock-exterior-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/comstock-exterior-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/comstock-exterior-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/comstock-exterior-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/comstock-exterior-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/comstock-exterior-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/comstock-exterior-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/comstock-exterior-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/comstock-exterior-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">No need to head to Churchill Downs for the Derby (and all the hats)—Comstock Saloon is ready to host you! \u003ccite>(Natalie Darville)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>The Kentucky Derby at Comstock Saloon\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/Comstock+Saloon/@37.7969298,-122.4077562,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808580f4ecc0c2d7:0xffee9ed9fd722364!8m2!3d37.7969298!4d-122.4055622\">155 Columbus Ave., San Francisco\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Anyone who loves the \u003cstrong>Kentucky Derby\u003c/strong> (and all its mint juleps and big hats) will want to attend \u003ca href=\"https://comstocksaloon.com/\">Comstock Saloon\u003c/a>'s annual Kentucky Derby event on Saturday May 5 (1pm–4pm). While watching the live stream of the race (“The Greatest Two Minutes in Sports!”), there will be plenty of themed cocktails, food specials from chef Jason Raffin, and here’s the extra-fun part: they host two best-dressed contests! You can try to win “Best Hat” and “Dandiest Fellow,” so be prepared, people really turn it out. There will also be race “betting,” with all betting proceeds going to the \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfmfoodbank.org/\">SF-Marin Food Bank\u003c/a>, and Comstock will of course project a live streaming of the Kentucky Derby race. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127440\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/lordstanley-miso-spinach-new.jpg\" alt=\"The miso-spinach dip at Lord Stanley is a thing of full flavor beauty. \" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/lordstanley-miso-spinach-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/lordstanley-miso-spinach-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/lordstanley-miso-spinach-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/lordstanley-miso-spinach-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/lordstanley-miso-spinach-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/lordstanley-miso-spinach-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/lordstanley-miso-spinach-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/lordstanley-miso-spinach-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/lordstanley-miso-spinach-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/lordstanley-miso-spinach-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/lordstanley-miso-spinach-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The miso-spinach dip at Lord Stanley is a thing of full flavor beauty. \u003ccite>(\u003ca href=\"http://tablehopper.com\">tablehopper.com\u003c/a>)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>Happy Hour at Lord Stanley\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/Lord+Stanley/@37.7957635,-122.4242195,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808580e99a9bd8bd:0x6fb8553da38ee20a!8m2!3d37.7957635!4d-122.4220255\">2065 Polk St., San Francisco\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Looking for a chic spot to enjoy happy hour? Carrie and Rupert Blease of \u003ca href=\"http://www.lordstanleysf.com\">Lord Stanley\u003c/a> in Russian Hill have just launched a new happy hour deal that will include a coupe of bubbles from their selection of small producers and an appetizer for just $15 from 5:30pm–7pm. Some potential and rotating pairings include a glass of Le Sot de L’Ange “Sottise” rosé with trout \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blini\">blinis\u003c/a> with locally foraged seaweed; Bourgeois Diaz 3C Cuvée Champagne with grilled asparagus and miso spinach dip (that dip is incredible, just saying!); or Suriol rosé cava Penedès with wagyu tartare and horseradish pita. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127439\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/limoncello-eggplant-parm-new.jpg\" alt=\"Meet the eggplant Parm at Limoncello.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2399\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127439\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/limoncello-eggplant-parm-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/limoncello-eggplant-parm-new-160x200.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/limoncello-eggplant-parm-new-800x1000.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/limoncello-eggplant-parm-new-768x960.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/limoncello-eggplant-parm-new-1020x1274.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/limoncello-eggplant-parm-new-960x1200.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/limoncello-eggplant-parm-new-1180x1474.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/limoncello-eggplant-parm-new-240x300.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/limoncello-eggplant-parm-new-375x469.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/limoncello-eggplant-parm-new-520x650.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Meet the eggplant Parm at Limoncello. \u003ccite>(\u003ca href=\"http://tablehopper.com\">tablehopper.com\u003c/a>)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>Quality Sandwiches from Limoncello\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/Limoncello/@37.787474,-122.425873,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x8085809578b0ac9f:0x65abdae89470888c!8m2!3d37.787474!4d-122.423679\">1400 Sutter St., San Francisco\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is for my fellow sandwich lovers: have you tried any of the quality sandwiches from \u003ca href=\"http://www.limoncellosf.com\">Limoncello\u003c/a>, the corner deli that opened a little over a year ago at Franklin and Sutter (maybe you’ve whizzed by it in your car?). Well, as the daughter of a former deli owner, it makes me happy to see such a clean and well-stocked case, and the friendly owner Jalal Heydari makes well-stuffed and assembled sandwiches with love. It’s picnic and festival season, so here’s your next sandwich supplier!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are all kinds of combos on the menu, from the Siciliano (ham, salami, mortadella, and provolone cheese with salt and pepper, oil and vinegar) to the Calabrese (dry hot coppa, cured pork shoulder rubbed with red cayenne pepper, fresh mozzarella cheese, mixed greens, sun-dried tomato, oil and vinegar)—but when they ask if you want it spicy, be careful because their peperoncino spread is really feisty. I also love their eggplant Parm, it’s a balanced sandwich and not loaded with too much breading and sauce. The ciabatta from Royal Bakery is pillowy and fresh, and delivery is also lightning fast (I use Uber Eats—you can \u003ca href=\"http://ubr.to/EatsGiveGet\">get $5 off your first order\u003c/a> with my code: eats-ubertablehopper). But if you go in person, the grocery section of his store also has some fun items, including that peperoncino spread. Buon appetito! \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Pop-up to Permanent — Sorrel Hits Prime Time With a Full-Time Presidio Heights Home",
"title": "Pop-up to Permanent — Sorrel Hits Prime Time With a Full-Time Presidio Heights Home",
"headTitle": "New Restaurants 2018 | Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cem>After four years of temporary homes, one of SF’s most beloved pop-ups has found a permanent home for its distinct seasonal California cooking with Italian influences.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127119\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2714-new.jpg\" alt=\"Sorrel in Presidio Heights\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127119\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2714-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2714-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2714-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2714-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2714-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2714-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2714-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2714-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2714-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2714-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2714-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sorrel in Presidio Heights \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Recurring pop-up dinners that evolve into full-time restaurants in San Francisco is hardly a groundbreaking concept anymore. Remember, several modern SF legends like Lazy Bear, Saison and Liholiho Yacht Club started off as under-the-radar, unofficial restaurants that required some sleuthing to figure out when and where to join their pop-ups that were part dinner and part party.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When you step back and think about this entrepreneurial strategy for chefs and restaurants, of course it’s a natural fit for this city of start-ups! Just like how all of the optimistic start-up founders in San Francisco go from napkin sketches to elevator pitches to usually failing--with a select few making it to Series A funding and the big boardrooms on Sand Hill Road--pop-up restaurants follow a near identical path aspiring to climb the daunting mountain to full-time fulfillment. It’s definitely possible. But, it’s definitely really, really hard to go from a weekly dinner in a private home to a full-time restaurant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127122\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2852-new.jpg\" alt=\"The window view into Sorrel's kitchen\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127122\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2852-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2852-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2852-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2852-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2852-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2852-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2852-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2852-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2852-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2852-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2852-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The window view into Sorrel's kitchen \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Look up “pop-up dinners” in San Francisco any week and you’ll find an abundance of choices, most of which are involved with companies like AirBnb or Feastly. The bubble still hasn’t burst on San Francisco’s prime pop-up moment, which started with Liholiho or Lazy Bear, depending on who in the industry you ask. There are roughly a dozen well-known, even mainstream pop-ups currently running or recently ended for various reasons. Count Rice Papers Scissors, Pinoy Heritage, Masak Masak and a pair of BBQ concepts (Horn and Native Sons) right now as the pop-ups that SF diners most eagerly follow on their social media feeds and can’t wait for a full-time spot to materialize. Some pop-ups were temporary fixtures and are planning to be permanent soon, like FOB Kitchen. Others ended recently and reopened as full-time concepts, including International Smoke, \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/126767/avery-opens-on-fillmore-as-sfs-next-elaborate-tasting-menu-destination\">Avery (né R.T.B. Fillmore)\u003c/a> and Sorrel.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://youtu.be/tgDWLU4WcTY\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>None of these pop-ups spent as much time preparing for the next step as that last one mentioned, named for a somewhat obscure herb/plant. Sorrel’s tasting menu-only concept lived in eight locations but mostly occurred in the Mission’s Naked Kitchen space. Over the course of four years of dinners with 135 being sell-outs, it found a distinct voice, crafted a polished delivery and gained a huge, loyal following. Now, the pop-up has hit prime time as a full-time spot--as in 58 permanent seats in a gorgeous, well-heeled Presidio Heights space.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127108\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2800-new.jpg\" alt=\"Sorrel interior main dining area\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127108\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2800-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2800-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2800-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2800-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2800-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2800-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2800-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2800-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2800-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2800-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2800-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sorrel interior main dining area \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>It’s pretty mind-blowing to think how long Sorrel has been “Sorrel” as a pop-up. Sorrel’s first dinners were served at the Hotel Rex in 2014--back when the Giants had only won two World Series titles. How many real restaurants have opened and then closed in that time span? Even in 2014, Sorrel had its sights on being a permanent restaurant eventually. For co-founders Alex Hong and Brennan Spreitzer, Sorrel was a side project where they could “play restaurant” as if they were elementary school students pretending to do some imaginary game, and that “restaurant” would truly exist some day.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127095\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2935-new.jpg\" alt=\"Executive Chef Alex Hong\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127095\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2935-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2935-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2935-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2935-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2935-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2935-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2935-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2935-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2935-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2935-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2935-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Executive Chef Alex Hong \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Like in theater, where productions have rehearsals then dress rehearsals and so many practices for months or years, a pop-up restaurant concept that lasts four years has an incredible advantage for working out its kinks. You might get bored or annoyed after awhile of not having your own space but you find your rhythm for service and cooking. You’re ready to go from day one, unlike most restaurants that go from planning to funding to hiring to show time in a matter of months.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Indeed, Sorrel is ready.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They had the team all set years ago. Spreitzer (a former Olympic level soccer player) is the business partner and runs the financial and front-of-house side with the Director of Operations, Colby Heiman. Heiman joined the team in 2015 after graduating from Cornell’s renowned hospitality school and set off on a real estate development and investment career in real estate in Chicago. Upon moving to San Francisco, he did some restaurant consulting and joined Sorrel to get the pop-up all prepared for its full-time gig. Hong runs the kitchen side as Executive Chef and is letting Sorrel evolve into a bit of a different vision for the larger and more diverse audience of its 2.0 version.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127092\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2955-new.jpg\" alt=\"Director of Operations, Colby Heiman\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127092\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2955-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2955-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2955-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2955-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2955-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2955-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2955-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2955-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2955-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2955-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2955-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Director of Operations, Colby Heiman \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Diners are now offered both a $90 tasting menu and an à la carte menu with several overlapping items between the two. It’s definitely an added challenge for Hong and his kitchen team to do both simultaneously. The timing of meals for tables can be brutal on the staff. This is why very few restaurants even try this. Central Kitchen, Commonwealth, Flour + Water and Rich Table are four rare success stories for this format.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127216\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2855-new1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2855-new1.jpg\" alt=\"Sorrel menu\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127216\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2855-new1.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2855-new1-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2855-new1-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2855-new1-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2855-new1-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2855-new1-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2855-new1-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2855-new1-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2855-new1-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2855-new1-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2855-new1-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sorrel menu - \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2855-new1.jpg\">view larger\u003c/a> \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Hong’s cooking is distinctly of the here and now. The Colorado native certainly has a way of speaking eloquently of California’s season, where right now we’re in the heart of spring and his menu is sparkling with peak asparagus, peas and strawberries. His training at Jean Georges in Manhattan and Quince here in San Francisco certainly played a role in his cooking style. It’s a somewhat elegant, very clean and unfussy cuisine. This isn’t remotely yoga cooking but, if you’ll indulge us, it’s a very mindful and present form of cooking. You’ll see Jean Georges-like hints of haute French with mild Southeast Asian touches and there’s no doubt that Quince’s Italian focus pops up all over the menu. It was at Quince where Hong fell in love with handmade pastas. As diners at the pop-up and now full-time Sorrel can attest, Hong definitely learned a lot from his Quince colleagues because he has a special touch with pasta.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127128\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8024-new.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8024-new.jpg\" alt=\"Making gnocchetti pasta at Sorrel\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127128\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8024-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8024-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8024-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8024-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8024-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8024-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8024-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8024-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8024-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8024-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8024-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Making gnocchetti pasta at Sorrel \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>https://youtu.be/23iLb5c9qC8\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, should we opt for the à la carte menu or tasting menu for a run down through Hong’s food? Let’s do both since you can’t actually do that while eating at Sorrel.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127152\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8145-2-new.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8145-2-new.jpg\" alt=\"Sourdough Focaccia with housemade butter and sorrel garnish\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127152\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8145-2-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8145-2-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8145-2-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8145-2-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8145-2-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8145-2-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8145-2-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8145-2-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8145-2-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8145-2-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8145-2-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sourdough Focaccia with housemade butter and sorrel garnish \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The à la carte menu has no categories. It just rolls from bread and oysters to lighter dishes to pastas to more substantial items you might think of main courses. The bread is hardly just \u003cem>bread\u003c/em>. It’s a sourdough focaccia hybrid ($6) that truly does have the soft texture, bubbly inner crumb and tangy flavor profile of sourdough but also sports focaccia’s crisp, tan outer crust and doesn’t have a shattering consistency like most sourdough. The bread boule comes piping hot and is served in a custom-made claypot vessel by Mary Mar Keenan, who has a neat studio in Hayes Valley. The sourdough focaccia (sourcaccia, anyone?) kicks off the tasting menu and should also kick off your à la carte experience with the partners of butter cultured in-house and topped with sorrel; and an umami-fest composition of olive oil, boquerones and green garlic (both are $3).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Our second sorrel sighting comes via the oyster and sorrels ($4.50 each). Perfectly shucked bivalves come with diced Asian pear, oro blanco (a tart citrus) and wood sorrel ice that explodes the moment the oyster hits your tongue.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The menu is full of tableside finishes by the service staff, like pouring roasted sunchoke vellutata into a bowl of frothy white miso broth, dried sunchoke chips and hazelnut in the second tasting menu course ($10). Next comes a delicate, shimmering shima aji crudo ($18) brightened up by poppy seed and finger lime in a nut milk broth that certainly calls to mind a leche de tigre for Peruvian ceviche. Other à la carte items for potential starters include spring lamb tartare with cured egg and white anchovy ($16); white soy-poached aji ($19); and a chicories and charred little gems salad accompanied by blood orange, Pecorino and tarragon vinaigrette ($13).\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127144\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8104-new.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8104-new.jpg\" alt=\"Shima Aji Crudo\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127144\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8104-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8104-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8104-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8104-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8104-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8104-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8104-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8104-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8104-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8104-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8104-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Shima Aji Crudo \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>https://youtu.be/WgAEarTADsI\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ready for pasta? Yes, you are. The tasting menu presents a pair of stunners. Tortellini in brodo is having a moment (see \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/126767/avery-opens-on-fillmore-as-sfs-next-elaborate-tasting-menu-destination\">Avery's\u003c/a> version) and here the tiny parcels swim in a smoked duck broth with fava beans and addictive puffed duck cracklings ($17). The restaurant’s already signature dish (and most Instagrammed) is springtime on a plate with pea and sheep’s milk ricotta-stuffed cappellacci (like triangular ravioli) in a light sauce made of the ricotta’s leftover whey and finished with mint and spring onions ($17). Purple flowers garnish everything as if to loudly prove that we’re all safely out of the winter doldrums.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127100\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2901-new.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2901-new.jpg\" alt=\" Cappellacci in Whey\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127100\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2901-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2901-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2901-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2901-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2901-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2901-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2901-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2901-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2901-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2901-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2901-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cappellacci in Whey \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>https://youtu.be/OZdw_bj3LTI\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The à la carte crowd can continue on a pasta bender. There are five other options ranging from a hearty gnocchetti with hen of the woods mushrooms, smoked almonds and a Parmigiano Reggiano fonduta ($17) for a foggy night to a bright, sunshine-evoking bigoli with green garlic, bottarga and cockles ($22). If it’s time for a splurge, there are a pair of $30 pastas--an Acquerello Carnaroli risotto studded with Dungeness crab and white asparagus; and highly coveted blonde morel mushrooms gently tossed with chestnut tagliatelle, Meyer lemon and onion blossom.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127131\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8045-new.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8045-new.jpg\" alt=\"Sheep’s milk ricotta-stuffed cappellacci\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127131\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8045-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8045-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8045-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8045-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8045-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8045-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8045-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8045-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8045-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8045-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8045-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sheep’s milk ricotta-stuffed cappellacci \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>If you didn’t fill up on pastas--and you better not--there are four larger dishes, plus a dry-aged duck for two ($85). Carnivores will be tempted by a Wagyu zabuton steak ($38), joined by blue grits from blue corn. At the other end of the spectrum, Hong creates a vegetarian, spring produce bonanza of farro verde with asparagus, fava greens and taggiasca olives ($26). He also offers a pair of fish choices. King salmon is the richer of the two ($32) with a Champagne sauce and celery root pudding. The tasting menu folks will get the crisp-skinned striped bass with sultanas (like raisins), flowering cauliflower and tender artichoke, all tied together by a powerful saffron sauce poured tableside that packs more of that flower spice’s punch than any bouillabaisse you’ll find around the Vieux Port of Marseilles ($34). Then the savory part of the tasting menu concludes with a small portion of that fantastic duck, lightly crusted with fennel pollen and pistachio, residing next to Hakurei turnips and kumquats.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127148\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8121-new.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8121-new.jpg\" alt=\"Striped bass with artichoke, cauliflower, sultana, wild ramps, saffron \" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127148\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8121-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8121-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8121-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8121-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8121-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8121-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8121-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8121-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8121-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8121-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8121-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Striped bass with artichoke, cauliflower, sultana, wild ramps, saffron \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Sorrel doesn’t have a dedicated pastry chef but Hong and his crew have a blockbuster strawberry-based ‘fresh and frozen’ creation for the tasting menu finale (all desserts are $12). It thrills with myriad textures courtesy of strawberry three ways: fresh; glazed in elderflower and white vinegar; and shaved ice’s cousin, granita. The granita comes on a white chocolate and black pepper sablé with a lightly whipped elderflower posset. Then the finishing touches of grated white chocolate and cracked pepper are added in the kitchen and a well-balanced strawberry jus is poured into the bowl for a tableside flourish. One spoonful of everything together becomes the strawberry ice cream of your dreams.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127150\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8131-new.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8131-new.jpg\" alt=\"Strawberries Fresh and Frozen\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127150\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8131-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8131-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8131-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8131-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8131-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8131-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8131-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8131-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8131-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8131-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8131-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Strawberries Fresh and Frozen \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>À la carte diners can also opt for the sweet-savory buckwheat ice cream with an olive oil jam and a Marcona almond biscuit coated with Marcona almond praline, or a layered terrine type of dessert of three kinds of mousse: brown butter-vanilla, caramelized milk and dark chocolate, plus sourdough ice cream and caramelized milk sauce.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hopefully, you can divert your attention from the ever-tempting plates for a few minutes and appreciate the wonderful decor of the 2,800-square foot space that previously was the excellent Cali-French tasting menu spot, Nico (opening soon at a new Jackson Square location). Hong and Heiman redesigned the room by themselves and kept the upscale look, hardwood floors and white-painted walls of Nico. However, they also gave it a forest-evoking natural vibe from a young \u003cem>ficus nitida\u003c/em> tree growing in the center of the room, floral arrangements and local plants growing in tiny planter boxes above the center’s pair of long walnut slab tables made in Emeryville. The tree grows towards a skylight (trend alert, this the third opening with a skylight this month in San Francisco!), allowing plenty of natural light into the room, along with the front windows looking at Sacramento Street. Mirrors hang above one side of the room with dark blue upholstered banquettes, while its opposite side features only two-top tables and a wall mounted with an abstract painting by San Francisco artist Katherine Boxall that has replaced the prominent antique map of Paris in the same spot for Nico.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127107\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2807-new.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2807-new.jpg\" alt=\"Interior main dining space at Sorrel\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127107\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2807-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2807-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2807-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2807-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2807-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2807-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2807-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2807-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2807-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2807-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2807-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Interior main dining space at Sorrel \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Like at Nico, Sorrel’s kitchen is easily in view, hidden by a glass window. In the rear of the restaurant by the kitchen is a spectacular private dining room complete with a stunning skylight and a record player. Upstairs is a rooftop garden that supplies many of the herbs for Hong’s menu. All in all, it’s a fascinating visual space bridging the gap between indoors and outdoors, relaxed and elegant, in a way that feels much more like Los Angeles or New York than the ubiquitous industrial-reclaimed wood aesthetic of San Francisco.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127112\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2741-new.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2741-new.jpg\" alt=\"The bar at Sorrel\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127112\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2741-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2741-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2741-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2741-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2741-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2741-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2741-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2741-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2741-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2741-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2741-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The bar at Sorrel \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>All in all, 50 diners can sit in the dining room and then eight guests can sit at the handsome white and green marble bar by the entrance. Come to the bar a little before your reservation and enjoy a low-ABV cocktail, designed by Kyle Greffin (Al’s Place). He has lots of fun with obscure liqueurs, fortified wines and amaros that are vaguely inspired by classic cocktails but really are their own exciting thing (all are $12). The namesake ‘Sorrel’ slightly resembles a Negroni, using the sherry-like Rancio Sec with sweet vermouth and rhubarb bitters. All the components get stirred together, poured on a large rock and, yes, garnished with sorrel. Meanwhile, the city’s many Aperol spritz fans will appreciate the 3-2-1, a refreshing Cappelletti, white vermouth, Prosecco and soda refresher.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127099\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2917-new.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2917-new.jpg\" alt=\"AJ Macias makes a Sorrel cocktail at the bar at Sorrel\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127099\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2917-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2917-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2917-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2917-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2917-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2917-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2917-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2917-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2917-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2917-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2917-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">AJ Macias makes a Sorrel cocktail at the bar at Sorrel \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127157\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8191-new.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8191-new.jpg\" alt=\"Sorrel cocktail\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127157\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8191-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8191-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8191-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8191-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8191-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8191-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8191-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8191-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8191-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8191-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8191-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sorrel cocktail \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The wine list was created by Samuel Bogue, an alum of the esteemed Frasca Food + Wine in Boulder, Colorado and also serves as the wine director for the Ne Timeas Restaurant Group (Central Kitchen, Flour + Water). He cleverly divided the whites and reds by ‘light,’ ‘in between,’ and ‘full.’ Selections tend to stick to West Coast boutique wineries and key French, Spanish and Italian regions, but he isn’t afraid to add some curveballs like a non-fortified Palomino from Spain (it’s the grape usually used for sherry). Thankfully, by the glass prices are mostly kept under $15, which is increasingly rare these days in pricey San Francisco.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At this point, you probably have wondered at least twice, “What does sorrel even taste like?” Well, it’s a bit like a tannic grape skin — not harsh but awkwardly tart. Unlike Sorrel the restaurant, you’ll want your sorrel the plant eating experience to be temporary. Luckily for San Francisco diners, Sorrel’s full-time restaurant is here to stay. After several years of pop-ups, there’s no place like home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127116\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2718-new.jpg\" alt=\"Sorrel logo on front door\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127116\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2718-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2718-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2718-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2718-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2718-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2718-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2718-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2718-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2718-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2718-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2718-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sorrel logo on front door \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.sorrelrestaurant.com\">\u003cstrong>Sorrel\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n3228 Sacramento Street \u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/Sorrel/@37.7885049,-122.4483862,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x8085808c2aa64a49:0xca9727783774ac1e!8m2!3d37.7885049!4d-122.4461922\">MAP\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94115\u003cbr>\nPh: (415) 525-3765\u003cbr>\nHours: Dinner Tuesday-Saturday, 5pm-10pm\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/sorrelrestaurant/\">Sorrel\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nInstagram: \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/sorrelrestaurant/\">@sorrelrestaurant\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nPrice Range: $$$ (Most plates under $30 but tasting menu is more of a splurge)\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "After four years of temporary homes, one of SF’s most beloved pop-ups has found a permanent home for its distinct seasonal California cooking with Italian influences.",
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"headline": "Pop-up to Permanent — Sorrel Hits Prime Time With a Full-Time Presidio Heights Home",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cem>After four years of temporary homes, one of SF’s most beloved pop-ups has found a permanent home for its distinct seasonal California cooking with Italian influences.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127119\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2714-new.jpg\" alt=\"Sorrel in Presidio Heights\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127119\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2714-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2714-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2714-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2714-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2714-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2714-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2714-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2714-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2714-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2714-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2714-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sorrel in Presidio Heights \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Recurring pop-up dinners that evolve into full-time restaurants in San Francisco is hardly a groundbreaking concept anymore. Remember, several modern SF legends like Lazy Bear, Saison and Liholiho Yacht Club started off as under-the-radar, unofficial restaurants that required some sleuthing to figure out when and where to join their pop-ups that were part dinner and part party.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When you step back and think about this entrepreneurial strategy for chefs and restaurants, of course it’s a natural fit for this city of start-ups! Just like how all of the optimistic start-up founders in San Francisco go from napkin sketches to elevator pitches to usually failing--with a select few making it to Series A funding and the big boardrooms on Sand Hill Road--pop-up restaurants follow a near identical path aspiring to climb the daunting mountain to full-time fulfillment. It’s definitely possible. But, it’s definitely really, really hard to go from a weekly dinner in a private home to a full-time restaurant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127122\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2852-new.jpg\" alt=\"The window view into Sorrel's kitchen\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127122\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2852-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2852-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2852-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2852-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2852-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2852-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2852-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2852-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2852-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2852-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2852-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The window view into Sorrel's kitchen \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Look up “pop-up dinners” in San Francisco any week and you’ll find an abundance of choices, most of which are involved with companies like AirBnb or Feastly. The bubble still hasn’t burst on San Francisco’s prime pop-up moment, which started with Liholiho or Lazy Bear, depending on who in the industry you ask. There are roughly a dozen well-known, even mainstream pop-ups currently running or recently ended for various reasons. Count Rice Papers Scissors, Pinoy Heritage, Masak Masak and a pair of BBQ concepts (Horn and Native Sons) right now as the pop-ups that SF diners most eagerly follow on their social media feeds and can’t wait for a full-time spot to materialize. Some pop-ups were temporary fixtures and are planning to be permanent soon, like FOB Kitchen. Others ended recently and reopened as full-time concepts, including International Smoke, \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/126767/avery-opens-on-fillmore-as-sfs-next-elaborate-tasting-menu-destination\">Avery (né R.T.B. Fillmore)\u003c/a> and Sorrel.\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/tgDWLU4WcTY'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/tgDWLU4WcTY'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>None of these pop-ups spent as much time preparing for the next step as that last one mentioned, named for a somewhat obscure herb/plant. Sorrel’s tasting menu-only concept lived in eight locations but mostly occurred in the Mission’s Naked Kitchen space. Over the course of four years of dinners with 135 being sell-outs, it found a distinct voice, crafted a polished delivery and gained a huge, loyal following. Now, the pop-up has hit prime time as a full-time spot--as in 58 permanent seats in a gorgeous, well-heeled Presidio Heights space.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127108\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2800-new.jpg\" alt=\"Sorrel interior main dining area\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127108\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2800-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2800-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2800-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2800-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2800-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2800-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2800-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2800-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2800-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2800-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2800-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sorrel interior main dining area \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>It’s pretty mind-blowing to think how long Sorrel has been “Sorrel” as a pop-up. Sorrel’s first dinners were served at the Hotel Rex in 2014--back when the Giants had only won two World Series titles. How many real restaurants have opened and then closed in that time span? Even in 2014, Sorrel had its sights on being a permanent restaurant eventually. For co-founders Alex Hong and Brennan Spreitzer, Sorrel was a side project where they could “play restaurant” as if they were elementary school students pretending to do some imaginary game, and that “restaurant” would truly exist some day.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127095\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2935-new.jpg\" alt=\"Executive Chef Alex Hong\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127095\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2935-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2935-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2935-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2935-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2935-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2935-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2935-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2935-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2935-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2935-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2935-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Executive Chef Alex Hong \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Like in theater, where productions have rehearsals then dress rehearsals and so many practices for months or years, a pop-up restaurant concept that lasts four years has an incredible advantage for working out its kinks. You might get bored or annoyed after awhile of not having your own space but you find your rhythm for service and cooking. You’re ready to go from day one, unlike most restaurants that go from planning to funding to hiring to show time in a matter of months.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Indeed, Sorrel is ready.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They had the team all set years ago. Spreitzer (a former Olympic level soccer player) is the business partner and runs the financial and front-of-house side with the Director of Operations, Colby Heiman. Heiman joined the team in 2015 after graduating from Cornell’s renowned hospitality school and set off on a real estate development and investment career in real estate in Chicago. Upon moving to San Francisco, he did some restaurant consulting and joined Sorrel to get the pop-up all prepared for its full-time gig. Hong runs the kitchen side as Executive Chef and is letting Sorrel evolve into a bit of a different vision for the larger and more diverse audience of its 2.0 version.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127092\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2955-new.jpg\" alt=\"Director of Operations, Colby Heiman\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127092\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2955-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2955-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2955-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2955-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2955-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2955-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2955-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2955-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2955-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2955-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2955-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Director of Operations, Colby Heiman \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Diners are now offered both a $90 tasting menu and an à la carte menu with several overlapping items between the two. It’s definitely an added challenge for Hong and his kitchen team to do both simultaneously. The timing of meals for tables can be brutal on the staff. This is why very few restaurants even try this. Central Kitchen, Commonwealth, Flour + Water and Rich Table are four rare success stories for this format.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127216\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2855-new1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2855-new1.jpg\" alt=\"Sorrel menu\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127216\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2855-new1.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2855-new1-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2855-new1-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2855-new1-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2855-new1-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2855-new1-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2855-new1-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2855-new1-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2855-new1-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2855-new1-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2855-new1-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sorrel menu - \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2855-new1.jpg\">view larger\u003c/a> \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Hong’s cooking is distinctly of the here and now. The Colorado native certainly has a way of speaking eloquently of California’s season, where right now we’re in the heart of spring and his menu is sparkling with peak asparagus, peas and strawberries. His training at Jean Georges in Manhattan and Quince here in San Francisco certainly played a role in his cooking style. It’s a somewhat elegant, very clean and unfussy cuisine. This isn’t remotely yoga cooking but, if you’ll indulge us, it’s a very mindful and present form of cooking. You’ll see Jean Georges-like hints of haute French with mild Southeast Asian touches and there’s no doubt that Quince’s Italian focus pops up all over the menu. It was at Quince where Hong fell in love with handmade pastas. As diners at the pop-up and now full-time Sorrel can attest, Hong definitely learned a lot from his Quince colleagues because he has a special touch with pasta.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127128\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8024-new.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8024-new.jpg\" alt=\"Making gnocchetti pasta at Sorrel\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127128\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8024-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8024-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8024-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8024-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8024-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8024-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8024-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8024-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8024-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8024-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8024-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Making gnocchetti pasta at Sorrel \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/23iLb5c9qC8'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/23iLb5c9qC8'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cp>So, should we opt for the à la carte menu or tasting menu for a run down through Hong’s food? Let’s do both since you can’t actually do that while eating at Sorrel.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127152\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8145-2-new.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8145-2-new.jpg\" alt=\"Sourdough Focaccia with housemade butter and sorrel garnish\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127152\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8145-2-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8145-2-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8145-2-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8145-2-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8145-2-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8145-2-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8145-2-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8145-2-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8145-2-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8145-2-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8145-2-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sourdough Focaccia with housemade butter and sorrel garnish \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The à la carte menu has no categories. It just rolls from bread and oysters to lighter dishes to pastas to more substantial items you might think of main courses. The bread is hardly just \u003cem>bread\u003c/em>. It’s a sourdough focaccia hybrid ($6) that truly does have the soft texture, bubbly inner crumb and tangy flavor profile of sourdough but also sports focaccia’s crisp, tan outer crust and doesn’t have a shattering consistency like most sourdough. The bread boule comes piping hot and is served in a custom-made claypot vessel by Mary Mar Keenan, who has a neat studio in Hayes Valley. The sourdough focaccia (sourcaccia, anyone?) kicks off the tasting menu and should also kick off your à la carte experience with the partners of butter cultured in-house and topped with sorrel; and an umami-fest composition of olive oil, boquerones and green garlic (both are $3).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Our second sorrel sighting comes via the oyster and sorrels ($4.50 each). Perfectly shucked bivalves come with diced Asian pear, oro blanco (a tart citrus) and wood sorrel ice that explodes the moment the oyster hits your tongue.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The menu is full of tableside finishes by the service staff, like pouring roasted sunchoke vellutata into a bowl of frothy white miso broth, dried sunchoke chips and hazelnut in the second tasting menu course ($10). Next comes a delicate, shimmering shima aji crudo ($18) brightened up by poppy seed and finger lime in a nut milk broth that certainly calls to mind a leche de tigre for Peruvian ceviche. Other à la carte items for potential starters include spring lamb tartare with cured egg and white anchovy ($16); white soy-poached aji ($19); and a chicories and charred little gems salad accompanied by blood orange, Pecorino and tarragon vinaigrette ($13).\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127144\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8104-new.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8104-new.jpg\" alt=\"Shima Aji Crudo\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127144\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8104-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8104-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8104-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8104-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8104-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8104-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8104-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8104-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8104-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8104-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8104-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Shima Aji Crudo \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/WgAEarTADsI'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/WgAEarTADsI'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cp>Ready for pasta? Yes, you are. The tasting menu presents a pair of stunners. Tortellini in brodo is having a moment (see \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/126767/avery-opens-on-fillmore-as-sfs-next-elaborate-tasting-menu-destination\">Avery's\u003c/a> version) and here the tiny parcels swim in a smoked duck broth with fava beans and addictive puffed duck cracklings ($17). The restaurant’s already signature dish (and most Instagrammed) is springtime on a plate with pea and sheep’s milk ricotta-stuffed cappellacci (like triangular ravioli) in a light sauce made of the ricotta’s leftover whey and finished with mint and spring onions ($17). Purple flowers garnish everything as if to loudly prove that we’re all safely out of the winter doldrums.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127100\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2901-new.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2901-new.jpg\" alt=\" Cappellacci in Whey\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127100\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2901-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2901-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2901-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2901-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2901-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2901-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2901-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2901-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2901-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2901-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2901-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cappellacci in Whey \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/OZdw_bj3LTI'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/OZdw_bj3LTI'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cp>The à la carte crowd can continue on a pasta bender. There are five other options ranging from a hearty gnocchetti with hen of the woods mushrooms, smoked almonds and a Parmigiano Reggiano fonduta ($17) for a foggy night to a bright, sunshine-evoking bigoli with green garlic, bottarga and cockles ($22). If it’s time for a splurge, there are a pair of $30 pastas--an Acquerello Carnaroli risotto studded with Dungeness crab and white asparagus; and highly coveted blonde morel mushrooms gently tossed with chestnut tagliatelle, Meyer lemon and onion blossom.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127131\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8045-new.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8045-new.jpg\" alt=\"Sheep’s milk ricotta-stuffed cappellacci\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127131\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8045-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8045-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8045-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8045-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8045-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8045-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8045-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8045-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8045-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8045-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8045-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sheep’s milk ricotta-stuffed cappellacci \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>If you didn’t fill up on pastas--and you better not--there are four larger dishes, plus a dry-aged duck for two ($85). Carnivores will be tempted by a Wagyu zabuton steak ($38), joined by blue grits from blue corn. At the other end of the spectrum, Hong creates a vegetarian, spring produce bonanza of farro verde with asparagus, fava greens and taggiasca olives ($26). He also offers a pair of fish choices. King salmon is the richer of the two ($32) with a Champagne sauce and celery root pudding. The tasting menu folks will get the crisp-skinned striped bass with sultanas (like raisins), flowering cauliflower and tender artichoke, all tied together by a powerful saffron sauce poured tableside that packs more of that flower spice’s punch than any bouillabaisse you’ll find around the Vieux Port of Marseilles ($34). Then the savory part of the tasting menu concludes with a small portion of that fantastic duck, lightly crusted with fennel pollen and pistachio, residing next to Hakurei turnips and kumquats.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127148\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8121-new.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8121-new.jpg\" alt=\"Striped bass with artichoke, cauliflower, sultana, wild ramps, saffron \" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127148\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8121-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8121-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8121-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8121-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8121-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8121-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8121-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8121-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8121-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8121-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8121-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Striped bass with artichoke, cauliflower, sultana, wild ramps, saffron \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Sorrel doesn’t have a dedicated pastry chef but Hong and his crew have a blockbuster strawberry-based ‘fresh and frozen’ creation for the tasting menu finale (all desserts are $12). It thrills with myriad textures courtesy of strawberry three ways: fresh; glazed in elderflower and white vinegar; and shaved ice’s cousin, granita. The granita comes on a white chocolate and black pepper sablé with a lightly whipped elderflower posset. Then the finishing touches of grated white chocolate and cracked pepper are added in the kitchen and a well-balanced strawberry jus is poured into the bowl for a tableside flourish. One spoonful of everything together becomes the strawberry ice cream of your dreams.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127150\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8131-new.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8131-new.jpg\" alt=\"Strawberries Fresh and Frozen\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127150\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8131-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8131-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8131-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8131-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8131-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8131-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8131-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8131-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8131-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8131-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8131-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Strawberries Fresh and Frozen \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>À la carte diners can also opt for the sweet-savory buckwheat ice cream with an olive oil jam and a Marcona almond biscuit coated with Marcona almond praline, or a layered terrine type of dessert of three kinds of mousse: brown butter-vanilla, caramelized milk and dark chocolate, plus sourdough ice cream and caramelized milk sauce.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hopefully, you can divert your attention from the ever-tempting plates for a few minutes and appreciate the wonderful decor of the 2,800-square foot space that previously was the excellent Cali-French tasting menu spot, Nico (opening soon at a new Jackson Square location). Hong and Heiman redesigned the room by themselves and kept the upscale look, hardwood floors and white-painted walls of Nico. However, they also gave it a forest-evoking natural vibe from a young \u003cem>ficus nitida\u003c/em> tree growing in the center of the room, floral arrangements and local plants growing in tiny planter boxes above the center’s pair of long walnut slab tables made in Emeryville. The tree grows towards a skylight (trend alert, this the third opening with a skylight this month in San Francisco!), allowing plenty of natural light into the room, along with the front windows looking at Sacramento Street. Mirrors hang above one side of the room with dark blue upholstered banquettes, while its opposite side features only two-top tables and a wall mounted with an abstract painting by San Francisco artist Katherine Boxall that has replaced the prominent antique map of Paris in the same spot for Nico.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127107\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2807-new.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2807-new.jpg\" alt=\"Interior main dining space at Sorrel\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127107\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2807-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2807-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2807-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2807-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2807-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2807-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2807-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2807-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2807-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2807-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2807-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Interior main dining space at Sorrel \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Like at Nico, Sorrel’s kitchen is easily in view, hidden by a glass window. In the rear of the restaurant by the kitchen is a spectacular private dining room complete with a stunning skylight and a record player. Upstairs is a rooftop garden that supplies many of the herbs for Hong’s menu. All in all, it’s a fascinating visual space bridging the gap between indoors and outdoors, relaxed and elegant, in a way that feels much more like Los Angeles or New York than the ubiquitous industrial-reclaimed wood aesthetic of San Francisco.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127112\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2741-new.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2741-new.jpg\" alt=\"The bar at Sorrel\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127112\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2741-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2741-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2741-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2741-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2741-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2741-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2741-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2741-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2741-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2741-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2741-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The bar at Sorrel \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>All in all, 50 diners can sit in the dining room and then eight guests can sit at the handsome white and green marble bar by the entrance. Come to the bar a little before your reservation and enjoy a low-ABV cocktail, designed by Kyle Greffin (Al’s Place). He has lots of fun with obscure liqueurs, fortified wines and amaros that are vaguely inspired by classic cocktails but really are their own exciting thing (all are $12). The namesake ‘Sorrel’ slightly resembles a Negroni, using the sherry-like Rancio Sec with sweet vermouth and rhubarb bitters. All the components get stirred together, poured on a large rock and, yes, garnished with sorrel. Meanwhile, the city’s many Aperol spritz fans will appreciate the 3-2-1, a refreshing Cappelletti, white vermouth, Prosecco and soda refresher.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127099\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2917-new.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2917-new.jpg\" alt=\"AJ Macias makes a Sorrel cocktail at the bar at Sorrel\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127099\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2917-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2917-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2917-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2917-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2917-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2917-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2917-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2917-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2917-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2917-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2917-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">AJ Macias makes a Sorrel cocktail at the bar at Sorrel \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127157\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8191-new.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8191-new.jpg\" alt=\"Sorrel cocktail\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127157\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8191-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8191-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8191-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8191-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8191-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8191-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8191-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8191-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8191-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8191-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8191-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sorrel cocktail \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The wine list was created by Samuel Bogue, an alum of the esteemed Frasca Food + Wine in Boulder, Colorado and also serves as the wine director for the Ne Timeas Restaurant Group (Central Kitchen, Flour + Water). He cleverly divided the whites and reds by ‘light,’ ‘in between,’ and ‘full.’ Selections tend to stick to West Coast boutique wineries and key French, Spanish and Italian regions, but he isn’t afraid to add some curveballs like a non-fortified Palomino from Spain (it’s the grape usually used for sherry). Thankfully, by the glass prices are mostly kept under $15, which is increasingly rare these days in pricey San Francisco.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At this point, you probably have wondered at least twice, “What does sorrel even taste like?” Well, it’s a bit like a tannic grape skin — not harsh but awkwardly tart. Unlike Sorrel the restaurant, you’ll want your sorrel the plant eating experience to be temporary. Luckily for San Francisco diners, Sorrel’s full-time restaurant is here to stay. After several years of pop-ups, there’s no place like home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127116\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2718-new.jpg\" alt=\"Sorrel logo on front door\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127116\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2718-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2718-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2718-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2718-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2718-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2718-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2718-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2718-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2718-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2718-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2718-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sorrel logo on front door \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.sorrelrestaurant.com\">\u003cstrong>Sorrel\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n3228 Sacramento Street \u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/Sorrel/@37.7885049,-122.4483862,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x8085808c2aa64a49:0xca9727783774ac1e!8m2!3d37.7885049!4d-122.4461922\">MAP\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94115\u003cbr>\nPh: (415) 525-3765\u003cbr>\nHours: Dinner Tuesday-Saturday, 5pm-10pm\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/sorrelrestaurant/\">Sorrel\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nInstagram: \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/sorrelrestaurant/\">@sorrelrestaurant\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nPrice Range: $$$ (Most plates under $30 but tasting menu is more of a splurge)\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Berkeley Classic Henry’s Scores a Touchdown with New Team’s Menu and Design Changes",
"title": "Berkeley Classic Henry’s Scores a Touchdown with New Team’s Menu and Design Changes",
"headTitle": "New Restaurants 2018 | Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cem>With Chris Kronner’s exciting small plates and irresistible burgers, plus Tartine bread and cocktails from an industry star, Berkeley’s venerable pub is now a major destination beyond tailgates and happy hour.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Kevin Durant might be the biggest ‘Durant’ celebrity around the Bay Area these days. However, in Berkeley, it’s all about a different Durant at the moment — \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Henry_Durant\">Henry Durant\u003c/a>. Yes, that’s right — the visionary higher education pioneer of the 19th century, who founded the University of California, is back in the spotlight. He lives on with Durant Street and the Hotel Durant located on his namesake thoroughfare right by the now-named UC Berkeley campus, along with the 90-year old watering hole attached to the hotel, Henry’s. Despite being in the land of Chez Panisse and all things artisanal and organic, Henry’s really has always just been a pub. It wasn’t a place for anything ‘craft’ and you certainly couldn’t call it a ‘gastropub’ when it came to food quality.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127036\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7997-new.jpg\" alt=\"Henry's on Durant\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127036\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7997-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7997-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7997-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7997-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7997-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7997-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7997-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7997-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7997-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7997-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7997-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Henry's on Durant \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Luckily for Bay Area diners and Golden Bear students, staff and fans alike, things have dramatically changed at Henry’s. \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oski_the_Bear\">Oski\u003c/a> couldn’t be happier this spring.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chris Kronner (\u003ca href=\"http://kronnerburger.com/\">KronnerBurger\u003c/a>) has arrived. Along with his immense cooking talent combined with a slick design revamp, the sweeping changes make Henry’s far more than just a destination for tailgating before heading to nearby Memorial Stadium or for students to be treated to dinner by parents if all of the Chez Panisse and Corso reservations are taken. Henry’s is striving to be both an accessible, casual spot for the local community but also has enough going for it that the entire Bay Area will take notice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127009\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2415-new.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Chris Kronner at Henry's\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127009\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2415-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2415-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2415-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2415-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2415-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2415-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2415-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2415-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2415-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2415-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2415-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Chris Kronner at Henry's \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Of course, by mentioning Kronner’s name with a restaurant, the immediate question posed by his many avid followers will be, “Is there a KronnerBurger?” Well, there is indeed a burger by Kronner. It’s just not the KronnerBurger like at his (temporarily closed due to a fire) restaurant on Piedmont Ave. in Oakland.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127003\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2534-new.jpg\" alt=\"The bar area Inside Henry's \" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127003\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2534-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2534-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2534-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2534-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2534-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2534-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2534-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2534-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2534-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2534-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2534-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The bar area Inside Henry's \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The main difference between the burgers is the amount of dry-aged beef incorporated into the patty. The KronnerBurger is 100% dry-aged beef, while the Henry’s Burger ($14) has just 20% and then 80% fresh ground beef. In both cases, the meat comes from top quality, grass-fed, pasture-raised Cream Co. Holstein cattle butchered between the ages of 7 and 12 years old.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The other difference answers the big question of how can you improve the already close to perfect original \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/KronnerBurgerSF/\">KronnerBurger\u003c/a>? Answer: bring in Chad Robertson, a good friend of Kronner’s and the baking virtuoso from Tartine. Yes, it’s truly a burger dream duo now where \u003ca href=\"https://www.tartinebakery.com/\">Tartine\u003c/a> bakes the buns for this Kronner-designed burger. Tartine is also baking the other breads served at Henry’s. At KronnerBurger, the potato pain de mie buns are custom-baked by the also excellent and Oakland-based, \u003ca href=\"http://starterbakery.com/\">Starter Bakery\u003c/a>. This is no slight at all on those buns but Tartine’s slightly denser sweet potato buns are a perfect, sturdy partner for the gloriously juicy four-ounce burgers at Henry’s. You’ll almost want to eat the buns by themselves.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126988\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2697-new.jpg\" alt=\"Henry's CheeseBoy on a Tartine sweet potato bun with herbed fries\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126988\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2697-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2697-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2697-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2697-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2697-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2697-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2697-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2697-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2697-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2697-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2697-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Henry's CheeseBoy on a Tartine sweet potato bun with herbed fries \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The Henry’s Burger is a simpler affair with pickles, roasted onions, lettuce and a thousand island-like Henry’s sauce. Guests can customize the burger with bacon, cheddar or blue cheese. Or, you can opt for the messier CheeseBoy ($15) that adds roasted tomato (sort of like ketchup in flavor but has a jammy consistency) and white American cheese, while subtracting the lettuce. Both burgers come with crisp medium-thick fries that are coated in a forest green fines herbs powder. Those fries are also available on their own with cheddar mayo for dipping ($7).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Let’s get one thing clear that has been incorrectly stated by many people in advance of Henry’s opening — Tartine is not a partner in the restaurant. You will not find the croissants or morning buns or chocolate soufflé cake or loaves of bread for sale at Henry’s. Kronner has been a friend of Robertson and his wife (and Tartine co-owner) Elizabeth Prueitt since 2001. To jog your San Francisco dining memory back in time a little bit, remember Bar Tartine (owned by Robertson and Prueitt) before Nick Balla and Cortney Burns were its trailblazing chefs and they steered the restaurants towards Central Europe and pickling and fermentation became the main theme? You got it — Kronner was the chef. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Kronner hails from North Carolina originally and came to San Francisco for cooking school. Almost as if it was fate, Kronner lived above Tartine and paid Robertson $200 a month (!!) to live there. Kronner’s first professional cooking gigs took him to some of the marquee early and mid 2000s restaurants like Town Hall and the (now closed) Slow Club, with the latter being where he was elevated to the main chef role and he started to gain citywide attention for his work. Then it was on to Serpentine in the Dogpatch, followed by Bar Tartine and finally KronnerBurger’s highly successful pop-up at Bruno’s nightclub in the Mission. That pop-up led to his permanent solo debut with Oakland’s Kronnerburger in 2015.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once diners get over how skilled Kronner is at making burgers go from great to outrageous, they’ll realize what a well-rounded force he is at creating anything from grilled pork skewers with finger limes and a sweet chili sauce ($8) to roasted maitake mushrooms with mushroom caramel ($14). You’ll see signs of that at KronnerBurger like with a stellar fried chicken banh mi or bold takes on salads like the East Bay’s definitive wedge salad. It’s at Henry’s, though, where he’s really starting to show his range and some greater ambition that is rewarding for his many fans to watch. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127008\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2427-new.jpg\" alt=\"Co-executive chef Jeffrey Hayden\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127008\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2427-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2427-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2427-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2427-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2427-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2427-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2427-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2427-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2427-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2427-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2427-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Co-executive chef Jeffrey Hayden \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127007\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2444-new.jpg\" alt=\"Co-executive chef Justin Huffman\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127007\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2444-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2444-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2444-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2444-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2444-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2444-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2444-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2444-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2444-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2444-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2444-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Co-executive chef Justin Huffman \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Kronner is assisted at Henry’s by co-executive chefs Justin Huffman (coming to Henry’s from KronnerBurger) and Jeffrey Hayden, who is best known to San Francisco diners as the opening chef at Del Popolo’s permanent location, responsible for everything non-pizza there. At Del Popolo, he crafted concise, bright salads and smaller fish and meat compositions that easily rivaled the world-class pizzas. In many ways, he’s doing the same thing with Huffman to elevate an impressive supporting cast in the shadow of the signature crowd-pleasing star, but just swapping pizza for burgers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127027\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7899-new.jpg\" alt=\"Marin Miyagi oysters\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127027\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7899-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7899-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7899-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7899-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7899-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7899-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7899-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7899-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7899-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7899-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7899-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Marin Miyagi oysters \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Most tables and hungry bar patrons will start with some Marin Miyagi oysters joined by a peppercorn mignonette, a spicy-acidic combination that Kronner loves and solves the dilemma of whether to add either horseradish or mignonette, or combine both ($18 for a half dozen). The oysters are just one of a dozen ‘snacks’ that range from spicy hot wings with a housemade Fresno chile hot sauce ($12) to roast bone marrow ($16) to a delicate yellowtail crudo accented by peanut, sesame, cayenne pepper and a radish vinaigrette ($15). \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127066\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7947-new1.jpg\" alt=\"Marinated feta with za'atar, Tartine country bread and charred onion honey\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127066\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7947-new1.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7947-new1-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7947-new1-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7947-new1-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7947-new1-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7947-new1-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7947-new1-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7947-new1-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7947-new1-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7947-new1-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7947-new1-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Marinated feta with za'atar, Tartine country bread and charred onion honey \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Tartine’s renowned thick-sliced country loaf appears in different forms for the ‘snacks,’ whether it’s just as a bread plate with cultured butter ($5); to sop up the absinthe butter broth for steamed mussels ($14); or, most impressively, arriving charred, slathered with charred-onion honey and ready to be covered by a profoundly smooth, fresh feta cheese from a specific maker in Ohio that possesses none of the watery, crumbly blandness usually associated with feta ($11). \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127019\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2614-new.jpg\" alt=\"Lamb leg with peppercorn labneh and carrot salad\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127019\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2614-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2614-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2614-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2614-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2614-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2614-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2614-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2614-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2614-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2614-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2614-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Lamb leg with peppercorn labneh and carrot salad \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The wild card of the ‘snacks’ is lamb leg ($15). Yes, lamb leg is a snack here, where thin rosy slices are given a light dusting of Middle Eastern spices and fanned across a narrow small plate, garnished by a carrot shreds salad and peppercorn labneh. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127028\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7893-new.jpg\" alt=\"Smoked carrot salad with blood oranges, puffed grains, spiced nuts and chrysanthemum\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127028\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7893-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7893-new-160x160.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7893-new-800x800.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7893-new-768x768.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7893-new-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7893-new-1200x1200.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7893-new-1180x1180.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7893-new-960x960.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7893-new-240x240.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7893-new-375x375.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7893-new-520x520.jpg 520w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7893-new-32x32.jpg 32w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7893-new-50x50.jpg 50w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7893-new-64x64.jpg 64w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7893-new-96x96.jpg 96w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7893-new-128x128.jpg 128w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7893-new-150x150.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Smoked carrot salad with blood oranges, puffed grains, spiced nuts and chrysanthemum \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Next on the menu is the ‘produce’ section and that’s where Henry’s really starts channeling a tiny bit of classic Chez Panisse-Berkeley cuisine with lovely salads and vegetable plates. A basic Henry’s red lettuce salad ($9) comes with a charred citrus vinaigrette and tempura-like crispy flowering broccoli partner with rice wine vinaigrette ($12). The group’s knockout dish is a smoked carrot salad ($13) with as much umami as the burger’s dry-aged beef. Each bite contrasts with crunch from raw carrots, puffed grains and spiced nuts, then a sweet jolt from golden raisins and blood orange segments. Chrysanthemum greens serve as the base and it’s all tied together by a light soy-based miso dressing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127025\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7918-new.jpg\" alt=\"Charred arrowhead cabbage with kumquats, cinnamon seeds and aioli\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127025\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7918-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7918-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7918-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7918-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7918-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7918-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7918-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7918-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7918-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7918-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7918-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Charred arrowhead cabbage with kumquats, cinnamon seeds and aioli \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Kronner continues the vegan dressings and condiments theme in a sharply charred Arrowhead cabbage dish ($13), joined by cinnamon and sugar-dusted seeds, kumquats and a vegan aioli made from. This type of cabbage is almost meaty in flavor and has the strength of tender little gem lettuce spears. It’s entirely unlike the pale cabbage leaves associated with cole slaw.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Finally, there are the two burgers under the ‘burgers’ section and a handful of ‘mains.’ For that latter category, diners will be tempted by roasted chicken (again from Cream Co.) with miso jus and a panzanella salad using Tartine bread ($29), or a Mediterranean-evoking swordfish with smoked tomato tonnato, fried leeks, capers and onions ($26). On cooler evenings, keep an eye on coal-roasted lamb neck with spring vegetables and mint ($25) or gnocchi with white cheddar mornay ($14) and the option to add dry-aged beef sugo ($5). Henry’s still has a little bit of the pub feel on the ‘mains,’ as well, with a pork sausage plate ($16). \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127056\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7991-new.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7991-new.jpg\" alt=\"Henry's menu\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127056\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7991-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7991-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7991-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7991-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7991-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7991-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7991-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7991-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7991-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7991-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7991-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Henry's menu \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>By this point, diners will wonder if there really is a distinct cuisine or theme to Henry’s menu? It’s kind of a gastropub but also has some intense and creative dishes that lean heavily towards vegetables, deft spicing and even a little bit of funk. This is what Kronner is so great at. Like with his burgers, he cooks appealing food that a wide audience will enjoy. It’s sophisticated enough for discerning professors but also relatable for an unadventurous freshman at the neighboring dorm. His style of cooking fills a much-needed friendly, midscale restaurant with edginess niche in Berkeley. Plus, it might not be ideal for diners on a student’s budget but the prices are much lower than their equivalents across the Bay Bridge. There, the ‘mains’ would no doubt find their way over $30. So, why not splurge on dessert?\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127015\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7883-new.jpg\" alt=\"Olive oil cake with blood oranges and pistachios\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127015\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7883-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7883-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7883-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7883-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7883-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7883-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7883-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7883-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7883-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7883-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7883-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Olive oil cake with blood oranges and pistachios \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Even as kitchens seem to be focusing on \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2018/04/10/dining/ice-cream-sundaes-restaurants-new-york.html\">sundaes\u003c/a> or altogether ignoring desserts, Henry’s quartet of sweet options invites sticking around for a closing bite. A moist olive oil cake ($8) pops when an oversized bite combines the centerpiece cake with fresh blood oranges, pistachios and whipped cream ($8). Other options include a honey pie ($7); a spring powerhouse combination of strawberry sherbet, rhubarb, hibiscus and rose streusel ($7); and a chocolate-peanut butter semifreddo to satisfy the many chocolate-only dessert fans in the audience ($8). \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127023\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2543-new.jpg\" alt=\"Inside the Tavern Room at Henry's\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127023\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2543-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2543-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2543-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2543-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2543-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2543-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2543-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2543-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2543-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2543-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2543-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Inside the Tavern Room at Henry's \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Kronner’s wife Ashley Hildreth and Luke Foss led the redesign for the 100-seat space, split between 60 spots in the Tavern Room and 40 in the Durant Dining Room. The redwood-topped bar anchors the Tavern Room portion with plenty of dark wood furnishing, candles and vintage brass accents like you would expect from an old-fashioned tavern. Take note of the mirrors above the bar that actually hide televisions. Those TVs only appear for showing important sporting events. It’s a nifty touch that more restaurants should do where fans won’t miss key Warriors or Giants games but also makes the bar have a true old-timey atmosphere instead of falling into the ubiquitous sports bar territory. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127005\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2474-new.jpg\" alt=\"The Durant Dining Room with chef Chris Kronner and co-executive chefs Jeffrey Hayden and Justin Huffman\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127005\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2474-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2474-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2474-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2474-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2474-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2474-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2474-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2474-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2474-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2474-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2474-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Durant Dining Room with chef Chris Kronner and co-executive chefs Jeffrey Hayden and Justin Huffman \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The main Durant Room dining area is beautifully spacious with sunlight streaming on the curved, tufted black leather steakhouse booths at the windows and their marble tables. The livened up area has the glamorous feel and appearance of a mid-century estate’s posh conservatory. It sure doesn’t look like your typical pregame watering hole.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127013\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2397-new.jpg\" alt=\"Graduate Berkeley -entrance to Henry's\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2880\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127013\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2397-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2397-new-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2397-new-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2397-new-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2397-new-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2397-new-1180x1770.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2397-new-960x1440.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2397-new-240x360.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2397-new-375x563.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2397-new-520x780.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Graduate Berkeley -entrance to Henry's \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Recently, the Hotel Durant was taken over by Graduate Hotels, a burgeoning brand that has an interesting strategy of taking over fading university town hotels and transforming them into boutique accommodations with a throwback collegiate-scholarly theme. The Durant is their first location in California and we’ll see if Palo Alto is next on the horizon. After all, they give Cal’s rival a shout out with the Stanford decorated urinal in the men’s restroom à la the Cal one at Palo Alto’s Epiphany Hotel. It seems like the Pac 12 rivalry is much more than just about winning the Axe these days.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126990\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2708-new.jpg\" alt=\"General manager, Howie Correa\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126990\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2708-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2708-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2708-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2708-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2708-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2708-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2708-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2708-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2708-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2708-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2708-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">General manager, Howie Correa \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>While Kronner and Tartine are the household names for Bay Area readers and the general manager, Howie Correa, is a Chez Panisse alum, there are also two key Los Angeles restaurant industry celebrities involved with Henry’s. Both also do have important ties to the Bay Area worth noting. Bill Chait is arguably the most prolific restaurateur in that city (Bestia, Otium, Republique and many more) and is an investor in Henry’s. He’s also a proud UC Berkeley alum. Meanwhile, the cocktails are designed by Julian Cox, the bar star of Los Angeles who masterminded too many highly regarded cocktail menus and has won too many awards to count at this point. The Bon Vivants (Trick Dog) are the closest thing we have to him in the Bay Area. That being said, he’s even closer to the Bay Area now as the designer of Tartine Manufactory’s newly launched cocktail program. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cox’s cocktails are exciting without being too fussy. The most elaborate drink probably is the ‘Thornburg Village Special’ ($12) tying together manzanilla sherry, blueberries, white honey, lime, absinthe and an amaro-like liqueur, China China. The ‘Western Sour’ ($12) is a whiskey sour variation with falernum and grapefruit liqueur. Meanwhile, the spirit-forward ‘Speakerboxx’ ($12) pairs the unlikely duo of scotch and Sauternes with Peychaud’s bitters. On the lighter side, ‘English Spring’ elegantly screams “garden party sipper” with a Kir Royale-leaning combination of gin, Champagne, crème de Cassis and raspberry cordial ($11). \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127057\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7989-new.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7989-new.jpg\" alt=\"Henry's beverage menu \" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127057\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7989-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7989-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7989-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7989-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7989-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7989-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7989-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7989-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7989-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7989-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7989-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Henry's beverage menu \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Roughly a dozen glasses of wine are available, mixing labels from Europe, Sonoma favorites (Luuma, Scribe) and a refreshing red blend from Oakland’s own Broc Cellars. For the most part, the wines are the unfiltered ‘natural’ style that is so trendy these days. Beers on tap are mostly from small Northern California breweries and generously priced usually at $6 a pour.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Happy hour runs for three hours before dinner and three hours afterwards, appealing to all kinds of smartly frugal crowds. There are some great deals to find with $7 glasses of wine, $4 beers, a few discounted cocktails and snacks like the fries and smoked potato chips with a vegan broccoli-cheddar dip. Henry’s also plans to keep the tradition of rollicking, grand tailgates before football games this fall. More information will come about that in the next few months.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127059\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7988-new.jpg\" alt=\"Henry's Happy Hour menu\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127059\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7988-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7988-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7988-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7988-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7988-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7988-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7988-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7988-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7988-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7988-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7988-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Henry's Happy Hour menu \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>So, the tailgates will still have the same excitement of the old days, but there is an obvious new excitement at the reinvigorated pub in the old Hotel Durant. Chris Kronner and his all-star team are here. It’s time for a burger — and some cocktails, smoked carrot salad and Tartine bread. If only we all had this option across the street when we were college students.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127012\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2382-new.jpg\" alt=\"Henry's exterior\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127012\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2382-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2382-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2382-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2382-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2382-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2382-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2382-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2382-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2382-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2382-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2382-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Henry's exterior \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.graduatehotels.com/berkeley/restaurant/henrys/\">\u003cstrong>Henry’s\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n2600 Durant Avenue \u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/Henry's+Restaurant/@37.8679688,-122.2587233,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x80857c2fafbe5a3b:0xdaa5622c1a2e7ec9!8m2!3d37.8679646!4d-122.2565293\">MAP\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nBerkeley, CA 94704\u003cbr>\nPh: (510) 845-8981\u003cbr>\nHours: Dinner nightly from 6 PM to 10 PM ; happy hour daily from 3 PM-6 PM and 10 PM-1 AM\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/henrysberkeley/\">Henry's at The Graduate Berkeley\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nInstagram: \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/henrys_berkeley/?hl=en\">@henrys_berkeley\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nPrice Range: $$$ (small plates are priced $7-16 and mains between $20-$30)\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "With Chris Kronner’s exciting small plates and irresistible burgers, plus Tartine bread and cocktails from an industry star, Berkeley’s venerable pub is now a major destination beyond tailgates and happy hour.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cem>With Chris Kronner’s exciting small plates and irresistible burgers, plus Tartine bread and cocktails from an industry star, Berkeley’s venerable pub is now a major destination beyond tailgates and happy hour.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Kevin Durant might be the biggest ‘Durant’ celebrity around the Bay Area these days. However, in Berkeley, it’s all about a different Durant at the moment — \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Henry_Durant\">Henry Durant\u003c/a>. Yes, that’s right — the visionary higher education pioneer of the 19th century, who founded the University of California, is back in the spotlight. He lives on with Durant Street and the Hotel Durant located on his namesake thoroughfare right by the now-named UC Berkeley campus, along with the 90-year old watering hole attached to the hotel, Henry’s. Despite being in the land of Chez Panisse and all things artisanal and organic, Henry’s really has always just been a pub. It wasn’t a place for anything ‘craft’ and you certainly couldn’t call it a ‘gastropub’ when it came to food quality.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127036\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7997-new.jpg\" alt=\"Henry's on Durant\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127036\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7997-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7997-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7997-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7997-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7997-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7997-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7997-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7997-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7997-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7997-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7997-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Henry's on Durant \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Luckily for Bay Area diners and Golden Bear students, staff and fans alike, things have dramatically changed at Henry’s. \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oski_the_Bear\">Oski\u003c/a> couldn’t be happier this spring.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chris Kronner (\u003ca href=\"http://kronnerburger.com/\">KronnerBurger\u003c/a>) has arrived. Along with his immense cooking talent combined with a slick design revamp, the sweeping changes make Henry’s far more than just a destination for tailgating before heading to nearby Memorial Stadium or for students to be treated to dinner by parents if all of the Chez Panisse and Corso reservations are taken. Henry’s is striving to be both an accessible, casual spot for the local community but also has enough going for it that the entire Bay Area will take notice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127009\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2415-new.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Chris Kronner at Henry's\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127009\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2415-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2415-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2415-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2415-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2415-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2415-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2415-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2415-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2415-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2415-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2415-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Chris Kronner at Henry's \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Of course, by mentioning Kronner’s name with a restaurant, the immediate question posed by his many avid followers will be, “Is there a KronnerBurger?” Well, there is indeed a burger by Kronner. It’s just not the KronnerBurger like at his (temporarily closed due to a fire) restaurant on Piedmont Ave. in Oakland.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127003\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2534-new.jpg\" alt=\"The bar area Inside Henry's \" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127003\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2534-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2534-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2534-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2534-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2534-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2534-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2534-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2534-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2534-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2534-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2534-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The bar area Inside Henry's \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The main difference between the burgers is the amount of dry-aged beef incorporated into the patty. The KronnerBurger is 100% dry-aged beef, while the Henry’s Burger ($14) has just 20% and then 80% fresh ground beef. In both cases, the meat comes from top quality, grass-fed, pasture-raised Cream Co. Holstein cattle butchered between the ages of 7 and 12 years old.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The other difference answers the big question of how can you improve the already close to perfect original \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/KronnerBurgerSF/\">KronnerBurger\u003c/a>? Answer: bring in Chad Robertson, a good friend of Kronner’s and the baking virtuoso from Tartine. Yes, it’s truly a burger dream duo now where \u003ca href=\"https://www.tartinebakery.com/\">Tartine\u003c/a> bakes the buns for this Kronner-designed burger. Tartine is also baking the other breads served at Henry’s. At KronnerBurger, the potato pain de mie buns are custom-baked by the also excellent and Oakland-based, \u003ca href=\"http://starterbakery.com/\">Starter Bakery\u003c/a>. This is no slight at all on those buns but Tartine’s slightly denser sweet potato buns are a perfect, sturdy partner for the gloriously juicy four-ounce burgers at Henry’s. You’ll almost want to eat the buns by themselves.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126988\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2697-new.jpg\" alt=\"Henry's CheeseBoy on a Tartine sweet potato bun with herbed fries\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126988\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2697-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2697-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2697-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2697-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2697-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2697-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2697-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2697-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2697-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2697-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2697-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Henry's CheeseBoy on a Tartine sweet potato bun with herbed fries \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The Henry’s Burger is a simpler affair with pickles, roasted onions, lettuce and a thousand island-like Henry’s sauce. Guests can customize the burger with bacon, cheddar or blue cheese. Or, you can opt for the messier CheeseBoy ($15) that adds roasted tomato (sort of like ketchup in flavor but has a jammy consistency) and white American cheese, while subtracting the lettuce. Both burgers come with crisp medium-thick fries that are coated in a forest green fines herbs powder. Those fries are also available on their own with cheddar mayo for dipping ($7).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Let’s get one thing clear that has been incorrectly stated by many people in advance of Henry’s opening — Tartine is not a partner in the restaurant. You will not find the croissants or morning buns or chocolate soufflé cake or loaves of bread for sale at Henry’s. Kronner has been a friend of Robertson and his wife (and Tartine co-owner) Elizabeth Prueitt since 2001. To jog your San Francisco dining memory back in time a little bit, remember Bar Tartine (owned by Robertson and Prueitt) before Nick Balla and Cortney Burns were its trailblazing chefs and they steered the restaurants towards Central Europe and pickling and fermentation became the main theme? You got it — Kronner was the chef. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Kronner hails from North Carolina originally and came to San Francisco for cooking school. Almost as if it was fate, Kronner lived above Tartine and paid Robertson $200 a month (!!) to live there. Kronner’s first professional cooking gigs took him to some of the marquee early and mid 2000s restaurants like Town Hall and the (now closed) Slow Club, with the latter being where he was elevated to the main chef role and he started to gain citywide attention for his work. Then it was on to Serpentine in the Dogpatch, followed by Bar Tartine and finally KronnerBurger’s highly successful pop-up at Bruno’s nightclub in the Mission. That pop-up led to his permanent solo debut with Oakland’s Kronnerburger in 2015.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once diners get over how skilled Kronner is at making burgers go from great to outrageous, they’ll realize what a well-rounded force he is at creating anything from grilled pork skewers with finger limes and a sweet chili sauce ($8) to roasted maitake mushrooms with mushroom caramel ($14). You’ll see signs of that at KronnerBurger like with a stellar fried chicken banh mi or bold takes on salads like the East Bay’s definitive wedge salad. It’s at Henry’s, though, where he’s really starting to show his range and some greater ambition that is rewarding for his many fans to watch. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127008\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2427-new.jpg\" alt=\"Co-executive chef Jeffrey Hayden\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127008\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2427-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2427-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2427-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2427-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2427-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2427-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2427-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2427-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2427-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2427-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2427-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Co-executive chef Jeffrey Hayden \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127007\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2444-new.jpg\" alt=\"Co-executive chef Justin Huffman\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127007\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2444-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2444-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2444-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2444-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2444-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2444-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2444-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2444-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2444-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2444-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2444-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Co-executive chef Justin Huffman \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Kronner is assisted at Henry’s by co-executive chefs Justin Huffman (coming to Henry’s from KronnerBurger) and Jeffrey Hayden, who is best known to San Francisco diners as the opening chef at Del Popolo’s permanent location, responsible for everything non-pizza there. At Del Popolo, he crafted concise, bright salads and smaller fish and meat compositions that easily rivaled the world-class pizzas. In many ways, he’s doing the same thing with Huffman to elevate an impressive supporting cast in the shadow of the signature crowd-pleasing star, but just swapping pizza for burgers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127027\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7899-new.jpg\" alt=\"Marin Miyagi oysters\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127027\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7899-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7899-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7899-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7899-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7899-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7899-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7899-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7899-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7899-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7899-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7899-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Marin Miyagi oysters \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Most tables and hungry bar patrons will start with some Marin Miyagi oysters joined by a peppercorn mignonette, a spicy-acidic combination that Kronner loves and solves the dilemma of whether to add either horseradish or mignonette, or combine both ($18 for a half dozen). The oysters are just one of a dozen ‘snacks’ that range from spicy hot wings with a housemade Fresno chile hot sauce ($12) to roast bone marrow ($16) to a delicate yellowtail crudo accented by peanut, sesame, cayenne pepper and a radish vinaigrette ($15). \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127066\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7947-new1.jpg\" alt=\"Marinated feta with za'atar, Tartine country bread and charred onion honey\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127066\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7947-new1.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7947-new1-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7947-new1-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7947-new1-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7947-new1-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7947-new1-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7947-new1-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7947-new1-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7947-new1-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7947-new1-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7947-new1-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Marinated feta with za'atar, Tartine country bread and charred onion honey \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Tartine’s renowned thick-sliced country loaf appears in different forms for the ‘snacks,’ whether it’s just as a bread plate with cultured butter ($5); to sop up the absinthe butter broth for steamed mussels ($14); or, most impressively, arriving charred, slathered with charred-onion honey and ready to be covered by a profoundly smooth, fresh feta cheese from a specific maker in Ohio that possesses none of the watery, crumbly blandness usually associated with feta ($11). \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127019\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2614-new.jpg\" alt=\"Lamb leg with peppercorn labneh and carrot salad\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127019\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2614-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2614-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2614-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2614-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2614-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2614-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2614-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2614-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2614-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2614-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2614-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Lamb leg with peppercorn labneh and carrot salad \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The wild card of the ‘snacks’ is lamb leg ($15). Yes, lamb leg is a snack here, where thin rosy slices are given a light dusting of Middle Eastern spices and fanned across a narrow small plate, garnished by a carrot shreds salad and peppercorn labneh. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127028\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7893-new.jpg\" alt=\"Smoked carrot salad with blood oranges, puffed grains, spiced nuts and chrysanthemum\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127028\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7893-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7893-new-160x160.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7893-new-800x800.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7893-new-768x768.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7893-new-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7893-new-1200x1200.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7893-new-1180x1180.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7893-new-960x960.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7893-new-240x240.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7893-new-375x375.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7893-new-520x520.jpg 520w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7893-new-32x32.jpg 32w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7893-new-50x50.jpg 50w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7893-new-64x64.jpg 64w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7893-new-96x96.jpg 96w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7893-new-128x128.jpg 128w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7893-new-150x150.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Smoked carrot salad with blood oranges, puffed grains, spiced nuts and chrysanthemum \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Next on the menu is the ‘produce’ section and that’s where Henry’s really starts channeling a tiny bit of classic Chez Panisse-Berkeley cuisine with lovely salads and vegetable plates. A basic Henry’s red lettuce salad ($9) comes with a charred citrus vinaigrette and tempura-like crispy flowering broccoli partner with rice wine vinaigrette ($12). The group’s knockout dish is a smoked carrot salad ($13) with as much umami as the burger’s dry-aged beef. Each bite contrasts with crunch from raw carrots, puffed grains and spiced nuts, then a sweet jolt from golden raisins and blood orange segments. Chrysanthemum greens serve as the base and it’s all tied together by a light soy-based miso dressing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127025\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7918-new.jpg\" alt=\"Charred arrowhead cabbage with kumquats, cinnamon seeds and aioli\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127025\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7918-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7918-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7918-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7918-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7918-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7918-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7918-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7918-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7918-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7918-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7918-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Charred arrowhead cabbage with kumquats, cinnamon seeds and aioli \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Kronner continues the vegan dressings and condiments theme in a sharply charred Arrowhead cabbage dish ($13), joined by cinnamon and sugar-dusted seeds, kumquats and a vegan aioli made from. This type of cabbage is almost meaty in flavor and has the strength of tender little gem lettuce spears. It’s entirely unlike the pale cabbage leaves associated with cole slaw.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Finally, there are the two burgers under the ‘burgers’ section and a handful of ‘mains.’ For that latter category, diners will be tempted by roasted chicken (again from Cream Co.) with miso jus and a panzanella salad using Tartine bread ($29), or a Mediterranean-evoking swordfish with smoked tomato tonnato, fried leeks, capers and onions ($26). On cooler evenings, keep an eye on coal-roasted lamb neck with spring vegetables and mint ($25) or gnocchi with white cheddar mornay ($14) and the option to add dry-aged beef sugo ($5). Henry’s still has a little bit of the pub feel on the ‘mains,’ as well, with a pork sausage plate ($16). \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127056\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7991-new.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7991-new.jpg\" alt=\"Henry's menu\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127056\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7991-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7991-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7991-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7991-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7991-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7991-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7991-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7991-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7991-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7991-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7991-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Henry's menu \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>By this point, diners will wonder if there really is a distinct cuisine or theme to Henry’s menu? It’s kind of a gastropub but also has some intense and creative dishes that lean heavily towards vegetables, deft spicing and even a little bit of funk. This is what Kronner is so great at. Like with his burgers, he cooks appealing food that a wide audience will enjoy. It’s sophisticated enough for discerning professors but also relatable for an unadventurous freshman at the neighboring dorm. His style of cooking fills a much-needed friendly, midscale restaurant with edginess niche in Berkeley. Plus, it might not be ideal for diners on a student’s budget but the prices are much lower than their equivalents across the Bay Bridge. There, the ‘mains’ would no doubt find their way over $30. So, why not splurge on dessert?\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127015\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7883-new.jpg\" alt=\"Olive oil cake with blood oranges and pistachios\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127015\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7883-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7883-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7883-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7883-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7883-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7883-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7883-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7883-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7883-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7883-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7883-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Olive oil cake with blood oranges and pistachios \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Even as kitchens seem to be focusing on \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2018/04/10/dining/ice-cream-sundaes-restaurants-new-york.html\">sundaes\u003c/a> or altogether ignoring desserts, Henry’s quartet of sweet options invites sticking around for a closing bite. A moist olive oil cake ($8) pops when an oversized bite combines the centerpiece cake with fresh blood oranges, pistachios and whipped cream ($8). Other options include a honey pie ($7); a spring powerhouse combination of strawberry sherbet, rhubarb, hibiscus and rose streusel ($7); and a chocolate-peanut butter semifreddo to satisfy the many chocolate-only dessert fans in the audience ($8). \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127023\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2543-new.jpg\" alt=\"Inside the Tavern Room at Henry's\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127023\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2543-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2543-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2543-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2543-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2543-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2543-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2543-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2543-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2543-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2543-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2543-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Inside the Tavern Room at Henry's \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Kronner’s wife Ashley Hildreth and Luke Foss led the redesign for the 100-seat space, split between 60 spots in the Tavern Room and 40 in the Durant Dining Room. The redwood-topped bar anchors the Tavern Room portion with plenty of dark wood furnishing, candles and vintage brass accents like you would expect from an old-fashioned tavern. Take note of the mirrors above the bar that actually hide televisions. Those TVs only appear for showing important sporting events. It’s a nifty touch that more restaurants should do where fans won’t miss key Warriors or Giants games but also makes the bar have a true old-timey atmosphere instead of falling into the ubiquitous sports bar territory. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127005\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2474-new.jpg\" alt=\"The Durant Dining Room with chef Chris Kronner and co-executive chefs Jeffrey Hayden and Justin Huffman\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127005\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2474-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2474-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2474-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2474-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2474-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2474-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2474-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2474-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2474-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2474-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2474-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Durant Dining Room with chef Chris Kronner and co-executive chefs Jeffrey Hayden and Justin Huffman \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The main Durant Room dining area is beautifully spacious with sunlight streaming on the curved, tufted black leather steakhouse booths at the windows and their marble tables. The livened up area has the glamorous feel and appearance of a mid-century estate’s posh conservatory. It sure doesn’t look like your typical pregame watering hole.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127013\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2397-new.jpg\" alt=\"Graduate Berkeley -entrance to Henry's\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2880\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127013\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2397-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2397-new-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2397-new-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2397-new-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2397-new-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2397-new-1180x1770.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2397-new-960x1440.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2397-new-240x360.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2397-new-375x563.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2397-new-520x780.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Graduate Berkeley -entrance to Henry's \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Recently, the Hotel Durant was taken over by Graduate Hotels, a burgeoning brand that has an interesting strategy of taking over fading university town hotels and transforming them into boutique accommodations with a throwback collegiate-scholarly theme. The Durant is their first location in California and we’ll see if Palo Alto is next on the horizon. After all, they give Cal’s rival a shout out with the Stanford decorated urinal in the men’s restroom à la the Cal one at Palo Alto’s Epiphany Hotel. It seems like the Pac 12 rivalry is much more than just about winning the Axe these days.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126990\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2708-new.jpg\" alt=\"General manager, Howie Correa\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126990\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2708-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2708-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2708-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2708-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2708-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2708-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2708-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2708-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2708-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2708-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2708-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">General manager, Howie Correa \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>While Kronner and Tartine are the household names for Bay Area readers and the general manager, Howie Correa, is a Chez Panisse alum, there are also two key Los Angeles restaurant industry celebrities involved with Henry’s. Both also do have important ties to the Bay Area worth noting. Bill Chait is arguably the most prolific restaurateur in that city (Bestia, Otium, Republique and many more) and is an investor in Henry’s. He’s also a proud UC Berkeley alum. Meanwhile, the cocktails are designed by Julian Cox, the bar star of Los Angeles who masterminded too many highly regarded cocktail menus and has won too many awards to count at this point. The Bon Vivants (Trick Dog) are the closest thing we have to him in the Bay Area. That being said, he’s even closer to the Bay Area now as the designer of Tartine Manufactory’s newly launched cocktail program. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cox’s cocktails are exciting without being too fussy. The most elaborate drink probably is the ‘Thornburg Village Special’ ($12) tying together manzanilla sherry, blueberries, white honey, lime, absinthe and an amaro-like liqueur, China China. The ‘Western Sour’ ($12) is a whiskey sour variation with falernum and grapefruit liqueur. Meanwhile, the spirit-forward ‘Speakerboxx’ ($12) pairs the unlikely duo of scotch and Sauternes with Peychaud’s bitters. On the lighter side, ‘English Spring’ elegantly screams “garden party sipper” with a Kir Royale-leaning combination of gin, Champagne, crème de Cassis and raspberry cordial ($11). \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127057\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7989-new.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7989-new.jpg\" alt=\"Henry's beverage menu \" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127057\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7989-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7989-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7989-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7989-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7989-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7989-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7989-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7989-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7989-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7989-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7989-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Henry's beverage menu \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Roughly a dozen glasses of wine are available, mixing labels from Europe, Sonoma favorites (Luuma, Scribe) and a refreshing red blend from Oakland’s own Broc Cellars. For the most part, the wines are the unfiltered ‘natural’ style that is so trendy these days. Beers on tap are mostly from small Northern California breweries and generously priced usually at $6 a pour.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Happy hour runs for three hours before dinner and three hours afterwards, appealing to all kinds of smartly frugal crowds. There are some great deals to find with $7 glasses of wine, $4 beers, a few discounted cocktails and snacks like the fries and smoked potato chips with a vegan broccoli-cheddar dip. Henry’s also plans to keep the tradition of rollicking, grand tailgates before football games this fall. More information will come about that in the next few months.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127059\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7988-new.jpg\" alt=\"Henry's Happy Hour menu\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127059\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7988-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7988-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7988-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7988-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7988-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7988-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7988-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7988-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7988-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7988-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7988-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Henry's Happy Hour menu \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>So, the tailgates will still have the same excitement of the old days, but there is an obvious new excitement at the reinvigorated pub in the old Hotel Durant. Chris Kronner and his all-star team are here. It’s time for a burger — and some cocktails, smoked carrot salad and Tartine bread. If only we all had this option across the street when we were college students.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127012\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2382-new.jpg\" alt=\"Henry's exterior\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127012\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2382-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2382-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2382-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2382-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2382-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2382-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2382-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2382-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2382-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2382-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2382-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Henry's exterior \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.graduatehotels.com/berkeley/restaurant/henrys/\">\u003cstrong>Henry’s\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n2600 Durant Avenue \u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/Henry's+Restaurant/@37.8679688,-122.2587233,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x80857c2fafbe5a3b:0xdaa5622c1a2e7ec9!8m2!3d37.8679646!4d-122.2565293\">MAP\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nBerkeley, CA 94704\u003cbr>\nPh: (510) 845-8981\u003cbr>\nHours: Dinner nightly from 6 PM to 10 PM ; happy hour daily from 3 PM-6 PM and 10 PM-1 AM\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/henrysberkeley/\">Henry's at The Graduate Berkeley\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nInstagram: \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/henrys_berkeley/?hl=en\">@henrys_berkeley\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nPrice Range: $$$ (small plates are priced $7-16 and mains between $20-$30)\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"publishDate": 1524076910,
"format": "standard",
"disqusTitle": "Guide: 5 San Francisco Family-Run Restaurants and How They Started",
"title": "Guide: 5 San Francisco Family-Run Restaurants and How They Started",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>We hear it all the time--this restaurant has shuttered, that restaurant will be closing its doors just after one year of operation. It seems to be the nature of the beast that is San Francisco. With a discerning clientele, ever-climbing rents, and an all-around uber-competitive landscape, it’s hard enough for seasoned restaurateurs with millions behind them to “make it” in this city. Despite this, there are gems scattered throughout San Francisco that have arguably less resources--less money, less manpower, and less experience. Family-owned and operated restaurants make up for what they lack in finances and pedigree with moxie, grit, and something that is hard to come by for many businesses: a type of camaraderie and trust that only comes with working with loved ones. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Many of these family-owned restaurants tell a story of an older San Francisco, of businesses founded by immigrants who wanted to build a better future for themselves and their children; of those looking to share a part of their culture with their newfound American neighbors; and those who had a passion for food so strong, that not opening a restaurant wasn't a choice. Of course, there are many family-owned eateries in this city. This is just a sampling of family establishments that have remained despite the many changing faces of San Francisco and their stories: how did they start their concept, what obstacles did they encounter, and how have they remained so successful. What are your favorite places to have a \"welcome home\" meal in the city? Let us know in the comments.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/Halu-420550434647297/\">Halu\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/Halu+Restaurant/@37.7825683,-122.4664565,15z/data=!4m2!3m1!1s0x0:0x5b792c1928b0bac9?sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiB-cuIsb_aAhXI5J8KHXn1AEwQ_BIIqQEwCg\">312 8th Ave, San Francisco, CA 94118\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126894\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3397-new.jpg\" alt=\"Shiso Plum Chicken Skewer\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126894\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3397-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3397-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3397-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3397-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3397-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3397-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3397-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3397-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3397-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3397-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3397-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Shiso Plum Chicken Skewer \u003ccite>(Patrick Wong)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Inside the Beatles memorabilia-laden walls of Halu, you'll find some of the best \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yakitori\">yakitori\u003c/a> (a Japanese chicken skewer dish) in the city, which shouldn't be surprising considering Halu was one of the only restaurants--if not the only restaurant-- in the Bay Area serving yakitori when it opened in 2008 in San Francisco's Inner Richmond neighborhood. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Halu was founded by a married couple from Japan who, given their professions, seemed to be unlikely restaurateurs. Shigemi and Mimi Komiyama, a musician and photographer respectively, didn't consider opening a place of their own until their love for the Bay Area music scene anchored them in San Francisco. It was at this point they realized they couldn't find yakitori in the States. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"People really knew sushi, but no one really knew about yakitori,\" Mimi said. \"So my husband and I decided, 'Why don't we propagate yakitori in the USA?'\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126897\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0603-new.jpg\" alt=\"Komiyama Family; Sayaka, Mimi, Shigemi, Erika\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126897\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0603-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0603-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0603-new-800x1066.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0603-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0603-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0603-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0603-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0603-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0603-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Komiyama Family; Sayaka, Mimi, Shigemi, Erika \u003ccite>(courtesy of Halu)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Fortunately, before settling down in the Bay Area, Shigemi and Mimi attended culinary school in Japan to train in the art of yakitori as well as other Japanese cuisines. This culinary education was encouraged by Shigemi's mother, who paid for their tuition and is the namesake of Halu. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126890\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3350-new.jpg\" alt=\"Juicy Tsukune Chicken Stuffed Mushroom\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126890\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3350-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3350-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3350-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3350-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3350-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3350-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3350-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3350-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3350-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3350-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3350-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Juicy Tsukune Chicken Stuffed Mushroom \u003ccite>(Patrick Wong)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>After attending culinary school, moving to the Bay, and spending a couple decades satisfying their artistic ambitions, the Komiyamas decided it was time to open up their own yakitori restaurant. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Frequented by local musicians, fellow restaurant owners, and adventurous eaters looking to try a new type of cuisine, the word of Halu's yakitori (as well as their ramen) started spreading. Shigemi and Mimi, and their twin daughters Erika and Sayaka came together to successfully run Halu and feed their growing audience. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126891\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3363-new.jpg\" alt=\"Vegetable Skewers\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126891\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3363-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3363-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3363-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3363-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3363-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3363-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3363-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3363-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3363-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3363-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3363-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Vegetable Skewers \u003ccite>(Patrick Wong)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>However, their success was not without difficulties. In 2014, Shigemi passed away. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Four years ago, my father passed away, and we were really thinking about shutting down the place,\" Erika said. \"Eventually, we decided to stay.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Shigemi's passing was particularly tough for Sayaka, who started out manning the ramen station at Halu while Shigemi handled the yakitori grill. When Shigemi passed away, Sayaka not only lost her father, but was responsible for taking over his position in the restaurant. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I think that's the most difficult thing for me,\" Sayaka said. \"He taught me how to do everything that I know--the loss was really tough on me and the amount of prep work I had to do. I couldn't work fast enough. I would stay until three in the morning prepping for the next day. I would get frustrated that I can't work as fast as my dad.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>However, as Mimi explained, Sayaka has not only greatly improved over the last four years, but said there was something protecting the family--Sayaka had no plans of leaving the ramen station, but randomly decided to ask her father to teach her how to cook yakitori shortly before Shigemi passed. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126892\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3368-new.jpg\" alt=\"Tsukune Meatballs\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126892\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3368-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3368-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3368-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3368-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3368-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3368-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3368-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3368-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3368-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3368-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3368-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tsukune Meatballs \u003ccite>(Patrick Wong)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"It was so mystic. It was the right timing to learn something new,\" Sayaka said. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And newness seems to be an appropriate theme for the family team. “Halu” in Japanese means “spring child.” As Mimi explained, springtime is a time of renewal in Japan; school starts, businesses reopen, the cherry blossoms bloom. It is also the time of year Erika and Sayaka were both born. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With 10 years under their belt, Sayaka and Erika have taken over day-to-day operations, hoping to give their mother a bit of a break. While there are no immediate plans to expand, Erika says somewhere down the line, they might want to change Halu to a strictly yakitori concept and have a separate operation for their ramen. For now though, the family is perfectly happy with Halu just the way it is. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126893\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3392-new.jpg\" alt=\"Fried Chicken Skewer\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126893\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3392-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3392-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3392-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3392-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3392-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3392-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3392-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3392-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3392-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3392-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3392-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fried Chicken Skewer \u003ccite>(Patrick Wong)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"Ten years ago in the entire Bay Area, [there were] maybe only two or three yakitori restaurants. Now after 10 years, maybe 30 or 40.\" Mimi said. \"My dream came true. American people started to get to know yakitori.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://mitchellsicecream.com/\">Mitchell’s Ice Cream\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/Mitchell's+Ice+Cream/@37.7441872,-122.4249647,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f7e428d225041:0x3cd43303554b967c!8m2!3d37.744183!4d-122.422776\">688 San Jose Avenue, San Francisco, CA 94110\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126909\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/Dad-and-Bob-2-new.jpg\" alt=\"Larry Mitchell and Bob Mitchell at Mitchell's Ice Cream shop in 195\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1363\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126909\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/Dad-and-Bob-2-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/Dad-and-Bob-2-new-160x114.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/Dad-and-Bob-2-new-800x568.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/Dad-and-Bob-2-new-768x545.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/Dad-and-Bob-2-new-1020x724.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/Dad-and-Bob-2-new-1200x852.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/Dad-and-Bob-2-new-1180x838.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/Dad-and-Bob-2-new-960x682.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/Dad-and-Bob-2-new-240x170.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/Dad-and-Bob-2-new-375x266.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/Dad-and-Bob-2-new-520x369.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Larry Mitchell and Bob Davis (Larry's brother-in-law) at Mitchell's Ice Cream shop in 1953 \u003ccite>(courtesy of Mitchell's)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Larry and Jack Mitchell opened Mitchell’s Ice Cream in June 1953. Since the early 1990s, the day-to-day operations were led by two of Larry’s children, Brian and Linda. In 2016, Larry sadly passed away, leaving Brian and Linda to carry on the Mitchell's legacy. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But before the Mitchell’s Ice Cream as we know and love it today opened, the Mitchell family had already planted roots in the Bay Area since the mid 1800s--in the form of a dairy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On 29th and Noe, there was a Mitchell Dairy, owned by Brian and Linda’s great-grandfather. After he passed away in the late 1800s, their great-grandmother eventually closed the dairy and sold off parcels of land in the early 1900s.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Years later when Larry and Jack were born, they clearly already had the dairy business in their blood. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Larry was a lieutenant in the fire department and Jack was an electrician, and both brothers had a strong love for ice cream--particularly for a shop in the 1940s called Garrett’s. The brothers wanted to make ice cream that was just as good. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126907\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 648px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/Dad-2005.jpg\" alt=\"Larry Mitchell in 2005\" width=\"648\" height=\"864\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126907\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/Dad-2005.jpg 648w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/Dad-2005-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/Dad-2005-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/Dad-2005-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/Dad-2005-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 648px) 100vw, 648px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Larry Mitchell in 2005 \u003ccite>(courtesy of Mitchell's)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Finding a vacant storefront, the brothers built their own walk-in freezer and worked closely with the dairy from which they got their milk and cream from to begin Mitchell’s with about a dozen flavors. As Brian explained, dairies in the past were a lot more involved with the ice cream-making process, assisting with ingredient sourcing, recipe development, and even providing marketing collateral. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 1965, over a decade after Mitchell’s opened, Larry and Jack began importing mangoes from the Philippines, which gave way to also importing other current Mitchell’s staples like ube (a type of purple yam) and macapuno (a fruit similar to coconuts). \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126911\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3232-new.jpg\" alt=\"Mitchell's cone with Ube Ice Cream and Mango Ice Cream\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126911\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3232-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3232-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3232-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3232-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3232-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3232-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3232-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3232-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3232-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3232-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3232-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mitchell's cone with Ube Ice Cream and Mango Ice Cream \u003ccite>(Patrick Wong)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>These tropical flavors opened up a completely new fanbase for Mitchell’s, which was launching these ice creams around the same time many people were immigrating to the U.S. from the Philippines. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“It’s still our niche, today,” Brian said. “Pretty sure [our father] was the first to make mango ice cream in the U.S., [if not] certainly in the Bay Area.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, the Mitchell’s menu has expanded to about 40 flavors at any given time--with mango, ube, and macapuno consistently reserving spots on the list. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126912\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3230-new.jpg\" alt=\"Mitchell's Cookie Dough and Coconut Pineapple Ice Cream\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126912\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3230-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3230-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3230-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3230-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3230-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3230-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3230-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3230-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3230-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3230-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3230-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mitchell's Cookie Dough and Coconut Pineapple Ice Cream \u003ccite>(Patrick Wong)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Being in business for over 60 years, with no signs of slowing down, Brian says a lot of their success is owed to the quality of their ingredients and ice cream, being consistent, and really becoming part of the community. He mentioned their Filipino fanbase continues to be some of their most enthusiastic, as many of them bring relatives visiting from the Philippines to Mitchell’s right after landing at the airport. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What’s the future hold for Mitchell’s? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We plan on just staying put,” Brian said. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126908\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1080px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/Dad-Brian-Linda-2014.jpg\" alt=\"Brian, Larry, and Linda Mitchell in 2014\" width=\"1080\" height=\"810\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126908\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/Dad-Brian-Linda-2014.jpg 1080w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/Dad-Brian-Linda-2014-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/Dad-Brian-Linda-2014-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/Dad-Brian-Linda-2014-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/Dad-Brian-Linda-2014-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/Dad-Brian-Linda-2014-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/Dad-Brian-Linda-2014-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/Dad-Brian-Linda-2014-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/Dad-Brian-Linda-2014-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1080px) 100vw, 1080px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Brian, Larry, and Linda Mitchell in 2014 \u003ccite>(courtesy of Mitchell's)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As Mitchell’s continues to thrive, along with its wholesale business to other local restaurants and grocers, Brian and his sister plan to keep Mitchell’s the classic San Francisco ice cream institution it has been for so many decades already. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This June is Mitchell's 65th anniversary!\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"http://ichisushi.com/\">ICHI Sushi\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/ICHI+Sushi/@37.7426851,-122.4237301,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f7e5d2c7a6521:0x85b053e9c7ccccc8!8m2!3d37.7426809!4d-122.4215414\">3369 Mission St, San Francisco, CA 94110\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126899\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3557-new.jpg\" alt=\"ICHI Sushi's Assortment of Nigiri\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126899\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3557-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3557-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3557-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3557-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3557-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3557-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3557-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3557-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3557-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3557-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3557-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">ICHI Sushi's Assortment of Nigiri \u003ccite>(Patrick Wong)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>ICHI Sushi has its beginnings rooted in 2006 when it was originally a one-person catering company founded by Tim Archuleta--who had been a sushi chef for many years prior to starting ICHI. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Although “Ichi” in Japanese means “one,” Tim did have help from his then-girlfriend, and current wife, Erin, who would help Tim out by writing labels for his sushi. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126948\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/ICHI-019-new.jpg\" alt=\"Tim and Erin Archuleta\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1275\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126948\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/ICHI-019-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/ICHI-019-new-160x106.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/ICHI-019-new-800x531.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/ICHI-019-new-768x510.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/ICHI-019-new-1020x677.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/ICHI-019-new-1200x797.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/ICHI-019-new-1180x784.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/ICHI-019-new-960x638.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/ICHI-019-new-240x159.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/ICHI-019-new-375x249.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/ICHI-019-new-520x345.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tim and Erin Archuleta \u003ccite>(Menu Stories/Rebecca Goberstein)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Serving up his sushi to tech companies like Google, LinkedIn, and YouTube, ICHI was expanding quite quickly until 2008 when the recession hit. ICHI lost nearly all of their corporate catering accounts within a couple weeks. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tim and Erin then decided to change the model of ICHI, doing pop-ups and social catering. They eventually would become part of the 331 Cortland food incubator program, where they would lay the foundation for what would become ICHI Sushi as we know it today. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126898\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3549-new.jpg\" alt=\"Cucumber Salad with Miso Tahini Dressing\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126898\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3549-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3549-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3549-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3549-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3549-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3549-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3549-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3549-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3549-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3549-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3549-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cucumber Salad with Miso Tahini Dressing \u003ccite>(Patrick Wong)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>After raising the necessary funds, ICHI Sushi opened in September 2010 (after Tim and Erin tied the knot in 2008). Their location in Bernal Heights also used to be a sushi restaurant and when the owner decided to close it, he reached out to Tim and Erin, with whom he had become friends and gave them first dibs on the space. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Serving traditional Edo style sushi, ICHI is famed for its simply-done yet flavor-forward approach to nigiri. As Tim explained, each piece of fish is seasoned to complement the natural flavor of the fish--no soy sauce or wasabi necessary. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“My dream was for people to really understand what sushi is,” Tim said. He would later explain that he didn’t have his first taste of sushi until he was already working in kitchens while living in Santa Cruz and said it was love at first bite. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126935\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3570-new.jpg\" alt=\"Assortment of Nigiri\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126935\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3570-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3570-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3570-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3570-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3570-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3570-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3570-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3570-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3570-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3570-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3570-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Assortment of Nigiri \u003ccite>(Patrick Wong)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Beyond the food, Tim and Erin agree that people come for the experience--the loud music, the casual and jovial atmosphere--eating a good dinner almost becomes the byproduct more than the main intent. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We want people to have fun,” Tim explained. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As a fixture in the neighborhood, and a destination for celebrities and San Franciscans alike, one of the toughest things for ICHI was the Japanese earthquake in 2011 which devastated many parts of the country. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With 80% of ICHI’s fish being sourced directly from Japan, Erin and Tim had to be really careful with how they would move forward with sourcing. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126900\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3589-new.jpg\" alt=\"Maguro (Big Eye Tuna) Avocado Salad\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126900\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3589-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3589-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3589-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3589-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3589-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3589-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3589-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3589-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3589-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3589-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3589-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Maguro (Big Eye Tuna) Avocado Salad \u003ccite>(Patrick Wong)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“We really had to be supportive of the community [in Japan],” Erin said, “And being very thoughtful and cautious and protecting our customers during the transition in the seas.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With that, as tastes and the restaurant scene itself changes, Tim and Erin emphasize the need to remain consistent. After a stint in a larger space down Mission Street, before returning to their original smaller location, Erin said their current space feels like a “sushi living room,” and she and the rest of the team always want to deliver on that intimate dining experience. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126901\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3591-new.jpg\" alt=\"Farro with Uni Butter and Shimeji Mushrooms\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126901\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3591-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3591-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3591-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3591-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3591-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3591-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3591-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3591-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3591-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3591-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3591-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Farro with Uni Butter and Shimeji Mushrooms \u003ccite>(Patrick Wong)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>And with eight years of sushi-stardom, Tim, Erin, and general manager Amy Kunert all agree that a huge component of their success is the Bernal Heights neighborhood itself and their dedication to the citizens and the business owners in the area. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We’re committed. We don’t only want ourselves to succeed, but we want everyone in the neighborhood and everyone moving into the neighborhood to succeed,” Amy said. “It’s a direct reflection on us.” \u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"http://laciccia.com\">La Ciccia\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/La+Ciccia/@37.742016,-122.4288332,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f7e686375d373:0xfb3a341511914d68!8m2!3d37.7420118!4d-122.4266445\">291 30th St, San Francisco, CA 94131\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126903\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3638-new.jpg\" alt=\"Calamareddusu in Inzallada cun Olia (Calamari Salad Bosana Olives Celery Radishes)\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126903\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3638-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3638-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3638-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3638-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3638-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3638-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3638-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3638-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3638-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3638-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3638-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Calamareddusu in Inzallada cun Olia (Calamari Salad Bosana Olives Celery Radishes) \u003ccite>(Patrick Wong)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Helmed by husband and wife Massimiliano Conti and Lorella Degan, Massimiliano leads the La Ciccia kitchen while Lorella manages front of house. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126950\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/la-ciccia.jpg\" alt=\"Massimiliano Conti and Lorella Degan hugging in front of La Ciccia celebrating their 10th anniversary.\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1504\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126950\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/la-ciccia.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/la-ciccia-160x241.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/la-ciccia-800x1203.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/la-ciccia-768x1155.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/la-ciccia-798x1200.jpg 798w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/la-ciccia-960x1444.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/la-ciccia-240x361.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/la-ciccia-375x564.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/la-ciccia-520x782.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Massimiliano Conti and Lorella Degan hugging in front of La Ciccia celebrating their 10th anniversary. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Massimiliano Conti and Lorella Degan)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>After over a decade of successful business, Lorella says La Ciccia is a humble restaurant, whose sole focus is providing good food. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Food in Italy is the center of communion,” Lorella said. “Food is not only to feed you as person, it is to feed your soul. It’s a very important part of Italian culture.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126906\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3675-new.jpg\" alt=\"Spaghittusu cun Allu Ollu e Bottariga (Fresh Spaghetti Spicy Garlic Oil Salt Cured Fish Roe)\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126906\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3675-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3675-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3675-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3675-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3675-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3675-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3675-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3675-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3675-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3675-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3675-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Spaghittusu cun Allu Ollu e Bottariga (Fresh Spaghetti Spicy Garlic Oil Salt Cured Fish Roe) \u003ccite>(Patrick Wong)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Massimiliano and Lorella originally moved to Washington, D.C. from Italy in the early 1990s, and would later move to San Francisco. Massimiliano is originally from the island of Sardinia and Lorella is from an area just outside of Venice. Both had been to San Francisco before, loved the food scene, weather, and for Massimiliano particularly, the proximity to water.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Massimiliano and Lorella shared a love for food and worked in the food and wine world when they first moved to San Francisco, but they never intended to work together. But their mutual “little dream” as Lorella put it, brought them together to create a place to showcase the food of Sardinia. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Everybody goes to Italy. Most of my customers have gone many times. It’s Sicily always, Tuscany, Amalfi Coast, and Rome. But Sardinia is out there in the middle of the Mediterranean, so it’s quite removed. But it’s still a part of Italy.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126904\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3653-new.jpg\" alt=\"Prupisceddu in Umidu cun Tomatiga (Baby Octopus stew in a spicy Tomato Sauce)\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126904\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3653-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3653-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3653-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3653-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3653-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3653-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3653-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3653-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3653-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3653-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3653-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Prupisceddu in Umidu cun Tomatiga (Baby Octopus stew in a spicy Tomato Sauce) \u003ccite>(Patrick Wong)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As Lorella explained, Sardinian cuisine is straight-forward--letting the main ingredients in a dish shine. Historically, Sardinian food, despite originating from an island, used mostly cured meats (namely pork) and veggies. It was not until the people of Sardinia started venturing to the island’s coast that more seafood was introduced to the Sardinian diet. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, La Ciccia sources a large amount of their ingredients right from Sardinia, including cured tuna heart and bottarga, a cured fish roe usually from a grey mullet. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bottarga has become a main component of one of La Ciccia’s most popular dishes--their fresh spaghetti with bottarga--which is grated over the pasta, mimicking the look of gold flakes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126905\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3673-new.jpg\" alt=\"Spaghittusu cun Allu Ollu e Bottariga (Fresh Spaghetti Spicy Garlic Oil Salt Cured Fish Roe)\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126905\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3673-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3673-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3673-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3673-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3673-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3673-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3673-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3673-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3673-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3673-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3673-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Spaghittusu cun Allu Ollu e Bottariga (Fresh Spaghetti Spicy Garlic Oil Salt Cured Fish Roe) \u003ccite>(Patrick Wong)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“The dish is so popular that some people will order the pasta for their main course and ask to have it for dessert as well,” Lorella said. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>La Ciccia -- which roughly translates to an Italian term of endearment meaning “baby fat”-- celebrated their 12 year anniversary earlier this month. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lorella admits that the restaurant business isn’t easy and staying successful requires “working hard everyday and to challenge yourself everyday.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But she also says that she is lucky to live her dream with her husband daily.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“No matter how hard the last day was, the next day is better,” she said. “We never forget where we come from.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126902\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3630-new.jpg\" alt=\"Truta de Arrescottu (Sardinian Ricotta and Saffron Cake Honey and Toasted Almond)\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126902\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3630-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3630-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3630-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3630-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3630-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3630-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3630-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3630-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3630-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3630-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3630-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Truta de Arrescottu (Sardinian Ricotta and Saffron Cake Honey and Toasted Almond) \u003ccite>(Patrick Wong)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As La Ciccia has built a loyal and ever-growing clientele, Lorella says that she has seen shifts in who is coming to the restaurant to enjoy their food. The neighborhood, she added, has transitioned and includes more people who have moved in to work at the large tech companies like Facebook and Apple. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Despite any changes, though, La Ciccia still remains one of the mainstays in the city for Italian food. Lorella says there’s no immediate plan to expand La Ciccia, or if she and her husband will ever want to start something new down the line, but she said if that ever happened, it would still definitely involve food. \u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"http://ariasf.com\">ARIA Korean Tapas\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/Aria+Korean+Tapas/@37.786559,-122.4202647,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x80858091541c151f:0x6429aca5330ad7d9!8m2!3d37.7865548!4d-122.418076\">932 Larkin St, San Francisco, CA 94109\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126889\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3293-new.jpg\" alt=\"The Combo B; Spicy Pork Stir-Fry Ramen with Egg, Korean Fried Chicken, Ganjung Fried Chicken (fried chicken tossed with sauce), Bulgogi Kimbap\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126889\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3293-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3293-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3293-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3293-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3293-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3293-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3293-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3293-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3293-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3293-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3293-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Combo B; Spicy Pork Stir-Fry Ramen with Egg, Korean Fried Chicken, Ganjung Fried Chicken (fried chicken tossed with sauce), Bulgogi Kimbap \u003ccite>(Patrick Wong)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Nestled in a hole-in-the-wall in the Tenderloin, ARIA has become a popular destination for Korean fried chicken and other traditional Korean street food including kimbap (Korean rice rolls) and tteokbokki (spicy rice cakes). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Opened by a husband and wife in 2012, their son, Charlie Kim, later joined his parents (after attending UCLA) to help operate the grab-and-go restaurant. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126886\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/aria-mom-and-pop-new.jpg\" alt=\"Charlie (right) and his parents\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126886\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/aria-mom-and-pop-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/aria-mom-and-pop-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/aria-mom-and-pop-new-800x1066.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/aria-mom-and-pop-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/aria-mom-and-pop-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/aria-mom-and-pop-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/aria-mom-and-pop-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/aria-mom-and-pop-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/aria-mom-and-pop-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Charlie (right) and his parents \u003ccite>(courtesy of Aria)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Their entire family had been working in the food world far before opening ARIA. Charlie said his paternal grandparents operated a dumpling house in Seoul while his maternal grandparents ran a North Korean-style breakfast and lunch spot in Seoul as well. When his parents married, his mother was also running an American steakhouse outside Seoul, before moving to the U.S. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Originally an ailing fish and chips restaurant run by Charlie’s uncle, Charlie’s mother decided to open ARIA after noticing that Korean food in San Francisco was quite expensive and focused on dishes like pancakes, japchae, and stone pot. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Our family wants to offer more of a variety of street food,” Charlie said. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Charlie assisted his parents in operating ARIA while he was a sophomore in college and returned full-time in 2016 after graduating from UCLA and working in marketing in Los Angeles. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“A family-run restaurant is definitely not an easy system when it comes to a parent and son ownership.” Charlie said. “When I came back in 2016, we really struggled to find ARIA on the same page.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of the bigger struggles was consolidating the menu and revamping the physical space in the restaurant itself. Both things that Charlie and his parents did not see eye to eye on. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Eventually, the family moved to hone in on the grab-and-go concept, eliminating many of their tables and chairs and focusing the menu on their popular Korean fried chicken. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126888\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3306-new.jpg\" alt=\"Korean Fried Chicken\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126888\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3306-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3306-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3306-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3306-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3306-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3306-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3306-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3306-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3306-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3306-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3306-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Korean Fried Chicken \u003ccite>(Patrick Wong)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Charlie would also put ARIA on the social media map, infusing their street food menu with street culture on Instagram. While working with local Tenderloin artists, ARIA was eventually contacted by local hip hop musicians, streetwear designers, artists, and media sites for collaborations. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Despite consistently selling out of their fried chicken, Charlie says he can’t say if he thinks ARIA is successful, but he said that they are continuously working towards making a name in the street food game. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126887\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3307.-new.jpg\" alt=\"Ganjung Fried Chicken\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126887\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3307.-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3307.-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3307.-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3307.-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3307.-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3307.-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3307.-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3307.-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3307.-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3307.-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3307.-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ganjung Fried Chicken \u003ccite>(Patrick Wong)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“I received a lot of questions and consulting requests from a few Korean restaurants in the Bay Area. I always say to them, do not work to make money and pay your bills. Do it to share your culture and people will come,” Charlie said. “Definitely a tough industry and lots of competition, but I enjoy this every day.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Charlie said that he has received requests to open ARIA locations all over the U.S., including New York, LA, and Texas. For now, though, Charlie said a second ARIA location is on the way in the Bay Area and will be announced in the next couple months. \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Some of the most successful restaurants in San Francisco are those owned by families with arguably less money and experience than their well-funded counterparts; here are their origin stories and how they've managed to remain culinary landmarks in SF. ",
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"description": "Some of the most successful restaurants in San Francisco are those owned by families with arguably less money and experience than their well-funded counterparts; here are their origin stories and how they've managed to remain culinary landmarks in SF. ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>We hear it all the time--this restaurant has shuttered, that restaurant will be closing its doors just after one year of operation. It seems to be the nature of the beast that is San Francisco. With a discerning clientele, ever-climbing rents, and an all-around uber-competitive landscape, it’s hard enough for seasoned restaurateurs with millions behind them to “make it” in this city. Despite this, there are gems scattered throughout San Francisco that have arguably less resources--less money, less manpower, and less experience. Family-owned and operated restaurants make up for what they lack in finances and pedigree with moxie, grit, and something that is hard to come by for many businesses: a type of camaraderie and trust that only comes with working with loved ones. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Many of these family-owned restaurants tell a story of an older San Francisco, of businesses founded by immigrants who wanted to build a better future for themselves and their children; of those looking to share a part of their culture with their newfound American neighbors; and those who had a passion for food so strong, that not opening a restaurant wasn't a choice. Of course, there are many family-owned eateries in this city. This is just a sampling of family establishments that have remained despite the many changing faces of San Francisco and their stories: how did they start their concept, what obstacles did they encounter, and how have they remained so successful. What are your favorite places to have a \"welcome home\" meal in the city? Let us know in the comments.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/Halu-420550434647297/\">Halu\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/Halu+Restaurant/@37.7825683,-122.4664565,15z/data=!4m2!3m1!1s0x0:0x5b792c1928b0bac9?sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiB-cuIsb_aAhXI5J8KHXn1AEwQ_BIIqQEwCg\">312 8th Ave, San Francisco, CA 94118\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126894\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3397-new.jpg\" alt=\"Shiso Plum Chicken Skewer\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126894\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3397-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3397-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3397-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3397-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3397-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3397-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3397-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3397-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3397-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3397-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3397-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Shiso Plum Chicken Skewer \u003ccite>(Patrick Wong)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Inside the Beatles memorabilia-laden walls of Halu, you'll find some of the best \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yakitori\">yakitori\u003c/a> (a Japanese chicken skewer dish) in the city, which shouldn't be surprising considering Halu was one of the only restaurants--if not the only restaurant-- in the Bay Area serving yakitori when it opened in 2008 in San Francisco's Inner Richmond neighborhood. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Halu was founded by a married couple from Japan who, given their professions, seemed to be unlikely restaurateurs. Shigemi and Mimi Komiyama, a musician and photographer respectively, didn't consider opening a place of their own until their love for the Bay Area music scene anchored them in San Francisco. It was at this point they realized they couldn't find yakitori in the States. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"People really knew sushi, but no one really knew about yakitori,\" Mimi said. \"So my husband and I decided, 'Why don't we propagate yakitori in the USA?'\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126897\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0603-new.jpg\" alt=\"Komiyama Family; Sayaka, Mimi, Shigemi, Erika\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126897\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0603-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0603-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0603-new-800x1066.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0603-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0603-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0603-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0603-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0603-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0603-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Komiyama Family; Sayaka, Mimi, Shigemi, Erika \u003ccite>(courtesy of Halu)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Fortunately, before settling down in the Bay Area, Shigemi and Mimi attended culinary school in Japan to train in the art of yakitori as well as other Japanese cuisines. This culinary education was encouraged by Shigemi's mother, who paid for their tuition and is the namesake of Halu. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126890\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3350-new.jpg\" alt=\"Juicy Tsukune Chicken Stuffed Mushroom\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126890\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3350-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3350-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3350-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3350-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3350-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3350-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3350-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3350-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3350-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3350-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3350-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Juicy Tsukune Chicken Stuffed Mushroom \u003ccite>(Patrick Wong)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>After attending culinary school, moving to the Bay, and spending a couple decades satisfying their artistic ambitions, the Komiyamas decided it was time to open up their own yakitori restaurant. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Frequented by local musicians, fellow restaurant owners, and adventurous eaters looking to try a new type of cuisine, the word of Halu's yakitori (as well as their ramen) started spreading. Shigemi and Mimi, and their twin daughters Erika and Sayaka came together to successfully run Halu and feed their growing audience. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126891\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3363-new.jpg\" alt=\"Vegetable Skewers\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126891\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3363-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3363-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3363-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3363-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3363-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3363-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3363-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3363-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3363-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3363-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3363-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Vegetable Skewers \u003ccite>(Patrick Wong)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>However, their success was not without difficulties. In 2014, Shigemi passed away. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Four years ago, my father passed away, and we were really thinking about shutting down the place,\" Erika said. \"Eventually, we decided to stay.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Shigemi's passing was particularly tough for Sayaka, who started out manning the ramen station at Halu while Shigemi handled the yakitori grill. When Shigemi passed away, Sayaka not only lost her father, but was responsible for taking over his position in the restaurant. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I think that's the most difficult thing for me,\" Sayaka said. \"He taught me how to do everything that I know--the loss was really tough on me and the amount of prep work I had to do. I couldn't work fast enough. I would stay until three in the morning prepping for the next day. I would get frustrated that I can't work as fast as my dad.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>However, as Mimi explained, Sayaka has not only greatly improved over the last four years, but said there was something protecting the family--Sayaka had no plans of leaving the ramen station, but randomly decided to ask her father to teach her how to cook yakitori shortly before Shigemi passed. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126892\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3368-new.jpg\" alt=\"Tsukune Meatballs\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126892\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3368-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3368-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3368-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3368-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3368-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3368-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3368-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3368-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3368-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3368-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3368-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tsukune Meatballs \u003ccite>(Patrick Wong)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"It was so mystic. It was the right timing to learn something new,\" Sayaka said. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And newness seems to be an appropriate theme for the family team. “Halu” in Japanese means “spring child.” As Mimi explained, springtime is a time of renewal in Japan; school starts, businesses reopen, the cherry blossoms bloom. It is also the time of year Erika and Sayaka were both born. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With 10 years under their belt, Sayaka and Erika have taken over day-to-day operations, hoping to give their mother a bit of a break. While there are no immediate plans to expand, Erika says somewhere down the line, they might want to change Halu to a strictly yakitori concept and have a separate operation for their ramen. For now though, the family is perfectly happy with Halu just the way it is. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126893\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3392-new.jpg\" alt=\"Fried Chicken Skewer\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126893\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3392-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3392-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3392-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3392-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3392-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3392-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3392-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3392-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3392-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3392-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3392-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fried Chicken Skewer \u003ccite>(Patrick Wong)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"Ten years ago in the entire Bay Area, [there were] maybe only two or three yakitori restaurants. Now after 10 years, maybe 30 or 40.\" Mimi said. \"My dream came true. American people started to get to know yakitori.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://mitchellsicecream.com/\">Mitchell’s Ice Cream\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/Mitchell's+Ice+Cream/@37.7441872,-122.4249647,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f7e428d225041:0x3cd43303554b967c!8m2!3d37.744183!4d-122.422776\">688 San Jose Avenue, San Francisco, CA 94110\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126909\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/Dad-and-Bob-2-new.jpg\" alt=\"Larry Mitchell and Bob Mitchell at Mitchell's Ice Cream shop in 195\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1363\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126909\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/Dad-and-Bob-2-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/Dad-and-Bob-2-new-160x114.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/Dad-and-Bob-2-new-800x568.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/Dad-and-Bob-2-new-768x545.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/Dad-and-Bob-2-new-1020x724.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/Dad-and-Bob-2-new-1200x852.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/Dad-and-Bob-2-new-1180x838.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/Dad-and-Bob-2-new-960x682.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/Dad-and-Bob-2-new-240x170.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/Dad-and-Bob-2-new-375x266.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/Dad-and-Bob-2-new-520x369.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Larry Mitchell and Bob Davis (Larry's brother-in-law) at Mitchell's Ice Cream shop in 1953 \u003ccite>(courtesy of Mitchell's)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Larry and Jack Mitchell opened Mitchell’s Ice Cream in June 1953. Since the early 1990s, the day-to-day operations were led by two of Larry’s children, Brian and Linda. In 2016, Larry sadly passed away, leaving Brian and Linda to carry on the Mitchell's legacy. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But before the Mitchell’s Ice Cream as we know and love it today opened, the Mitchell family had already planted roots in the Bay Area since the mid 1800s--in the form of a dairy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On 29th and Noe, there was a Mitchell Dairy, owned by Brian and Linda’s great-grandfather. After he passed away in the late 1800s, their great-grandmother eventually closed the dairy and sold off parcels of land in the early 1900s.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Years later when Larry and Jack were born, they clearly already had the dairy business in their blood. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Larry was a lieutenant in the fire department and Jack was an electrician, and both brothers had a strong love for ice cream--particularly for a shop in the 1940s called Garrett’s. The brothers wanted to make ice cream that was just as good. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126907\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 648px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/Dad-2005.jpg\" alt=\"Larry Mitchell in 2005\" width=\"648\" height=\"864\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126907\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/Dad-2005.jpg 648w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/Dad-2005-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/Dad-2005-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/Dad-2005-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/Dad-2005-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 648px) 100vw, 648px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Larry Mitchell in 2005 \u003ccite>(courtesy of Mitchell's)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Finding a vacant storefront, the brothers built their own walk-in freezer and worked closely with the dairy from which they got their milk and cream from to begin Mitchell’s with about a dozen flavors. As Brian explained, dairies in the past were a lot more involved with the ice cream-making process, assisting with ingredient sourcing, recipe development, and even providing marketing collateral. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 1965, over a decade after Mitchell’s opened, Larry and Jack began importing mangoes from the Philippines, which gave way to also importing other current Mitchell’s staples like ube (a type of purple yam) and macapuno (a fruit similar to coconuts). \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126911\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3232-new.jpg\" alt=\"Mitchell's cone with Ube Ice Cream and Mango Ice Cream\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126911\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3232-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3232-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3232-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3232-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3232-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3232-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3232-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3232-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3232-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3232-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3232-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mitchell's cone with Ube Ice Cream and Mango Ice Cream \u003ccite>(Patrick Wong)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>These tropical flavors opened up a completely new fanbase for Mitchell’s, which was launching these ice creams around the same time many people were immigrating to the U.S. from the Philippines. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“It’s still our niche, today,” Brian said. “Pretty sure [our father] was the first to make mango ice cream in the U.S., [if not] certainly in the Bay Area.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, the Mitchell’s menu has expanded to about 40 flavors at any given time--with mango, ube, and macapuno consistently reserving spots on the list. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126912\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3230-new.jpg\" alt=\"Mitchell's Cookie Dough and Coconut Pineapple Ice Cream\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126912\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3230-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3230-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3230-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3230-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3230-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3230-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3230-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3230-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3230-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3230-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3230-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mitchell's Cookie Dough and Coconut Pineapple Ice Cream \u003ccite>(Patrick Wong)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Being in business for over 60 years, with no signs of slowing down, Brian says a lot of their success is owed to the quality of their ingredients and ice cream, being consistent, and really becoming part of the community. He mentioned their Filipino fanbase continues to be some of their most enthusiastic, as many of them bring relatives visiting from the Philippines to Mitchell’s right after landing at the airport. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What’s the future hold for Mitchell’s? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We plan on just staying put,” Brian said. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126908\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1080px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/Dad-Brian-Linda-2014.jpg\" alt=\"Brian, Larry, and Linda Mitchell in 2014\" width=\"1080\" height=\"810\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126908\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/Dad-Brian-Linda-2014.jpg 1080w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/Dad-Brian-Linda-2014-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/Dad-Brian-Linda-2014-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/Dad-Brian-Linda-2014-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/Dad-Brian-Linda-2014-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/Dad-Brian-Linda-2014-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/Dad-Brian-Linda-2014-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/Dad-Brian-Linda-2014-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/Dad-Brian-Linda-2014-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1080px) 100vw, 1080px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Brian, Larry, and Linda Mitchell in 2014 \u003ccite>(courtesy of Mitchell's)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As Mitchell’s continues to thrive, along with its wholesale business to other local restaurants and grocers, Brian and his sister plan to keep Mitchell’s the classic San Francisco ice cream institution it has been for so many decades already. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This June is Mitchell's 65th anniversary!\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"http://ichisushi.com/\">ICHI Sushi\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/ICHI+Sushi/@37.7426851,-122.4237301,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f7e5d2c7a6521:0x85b053e9c7ccccc8!8m2!3d37.7426809!4d-122.4215414\">3369 Mission St, San Francisco, CA 94110\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126899\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3557-new.jpg\" alt=\"ICHI Sushi's Assortment of Nigiri\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126899\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3557-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3557-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3557-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3557-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3557-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3557-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3557-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3557-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3557-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3557-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3557-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">ICHI Sushi's Assortment of Nigiri \u003ccite>(Patrick Wong)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>ICHI Sushi has its beginnings rooted in 2006 when it was originally a one-person catering company founded by Tim Archuleta--who had been a sushi chef for many years prior to starting ICHI. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Although “Ichi” in Japanese means “one,” Tim did have help from his then-girlfriend, and current wife, Erin, who would help Tim out by writing labels for his sushi. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126948\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/ICHI-019-new.jpg\" alt=\"Tim and Erin Archuleta\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1275\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126948\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/ICHI-019-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/ICHI-019-new-160x106.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/ICHI-019-new-800x531.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/ICHI-019-new-768x510.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/ICHI-019-new-1020x677.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/ICHI-019-new-1200x797.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/ICHI-019-new-1180x784.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/ICHI-019-new-960x638.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/ICHI-019-new-240x159.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/ICHI-019-new-375x249.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/ICHI-019-new-520x345.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tim and Erin Archuleta \u003ccite>(Menu Stories/Rebecca Goberstein)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Serving up his sushi to tech companies like Google, LinkedIn, and YouTube, ICHI was expanding quite quickly until 2008 when the recession hit. ICHI lost nearly all of their corporate catering accounts within a couple weeks. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tim and Erin then decided to change the model of ICHI, doing pop-ups and social catering. They eventually would become part of the 331 Cortland food incubator program, where they would lay the foundation for what would become ICHI Sushi as we know it today. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126898\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3549-new.jpg\" alt=\"Cucumber Salad with Miso Tahini Dressing\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126898\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3549-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3549-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3549-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3549-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3549-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3549-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3549-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3549-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3549-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3549-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3549-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cucumber Salad with Miso Tahini Dressing \u003ccite>(Patrick Wong)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>After raising the necessary funds, ICHI Sushi opened in September 2010 (after Tim and Erin tied the knot in 2008). Their location in Bernal Heights also used to be a sushi restaurant and when the owner decided to close it, he reached out to Tim and Erin, with whom he had become friends and gave them first dibs on the space. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Serving traditional Edo style sushi, ICHI is famed for its simply-done yet flavor-forward approach to nigiri. As Tim explained, each piece of fish is seasoned to complement the natural flavor of the fish--no soy sauce or wasabi necessary. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“My dream was for people to really understand what sushi is,” Tim said. He would later explain that he didn’t have his first taste of sushi until he was already working in kitchens while living in Santa Cruz and said it was love at first bite. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126935\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3570-new.jpg\" alt=\"Assortment of Nigiri\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126935\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3570-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3570-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3570-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3570-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3570-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3570-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3570-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3570-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3570-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3570-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3570-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Assortment of Nigiri \u003ccite>(Patrick Wong)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Beyond the food, Tim and Erin agree that people come for the experience--the loud music, the casual and jovial atmosphere--eating a good dinner almost becomes the byproduct more than the main intent. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We want people to have fun,” Tim explained. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As a fixture in the neighborhood, and a destination for celebrities and San Franciscans alike, one of the toughest things for ICHI was the Japanese earthquake in 2011 which devastated many parts of the country. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With 80% of ICHI’s fish being sourced directly from Japan, Erin and Tim had to be really careful with how they would move forward with sourcing. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126900\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3589-new.jpg\" alt=\"Maguro (Big Eye Tuna) Avocado Salad\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126900\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3589-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3589-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3589-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3589-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3589-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3589-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3589-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3589-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3589-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3589-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3589-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Maguro (Big Eye Tuna) Avocado Salad \u003ccite>(Patrick Wong)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“We really had to be supportive of the community [in Japan],” Erin said, “And being very thoughtful and cautious and protecting our customers during the transition in the seas.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With that, as tastes and the restaurant scene itself changes, Tim and Erin emphasize the need to remain consistent. After a stint in a larger space down Mission Street, before returning to their original smaller location, Erin said their current space feels like a “sushi living room,” and she and the rest of the team always want to deliver on that intimate dining experience. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126901\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3591-new.jpg\" alt=\"Farro with Uni Butter and Shimeji Mushrooms\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126901\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3591-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3591-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3591-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3591-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3591-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3591-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3591-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3591-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3591-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3591-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3591-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Farro with Uni Butter and Shimeji Mushrooms \u003ccite>(Patrick Wong)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>And with eight years of sushi-stardom, Tim, Erin, and general manager Amy Kunert all agree that a huge component of their success is the Bernal Heights neighborhood itself and their dedication to the citizens and the business owners in the area. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We’re committed. We don’t only want ourselves to succeed, but we want everyone in the neighborhood and everyone moving into the neighborhood to succeed,” Amy said. “It’s a direct reflection on us.” \u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"http://laciccia.com\">La Ciccia\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/La+Ciccia/@37.742016,-122.4288332,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f7e686375d373:0xfb3a341511914d68!8m2!3d37.7420118!4d-122.4266445\">291 30th St, San Francisco, CA 94131\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126903\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3638-new.jpg\" alt=\"Calamareddusu in Inzallada cun Olia (Calamari Salad Bosana Olives Celery Radishes)\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126903\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3638-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3638-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3638-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3638-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3638-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3638-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3638-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3638-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3638-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3638-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3638-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Calamareddusu in Inzallada cun Olia (Calamari Salad Bosana Olives Celery Radishes) \u003ccite>(Patrick Wong)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Helmed by husband and wife Massimiliano Conti and Lorella Degan, Massimiliano leads the La Ciccia kitchen while Lorella manages front of house. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126950\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/la-ciccia.jpg\" alt=\"Massimiliano Conti and Lorella Degan hugging in front of La Ciccia celebrating their 10th anniversary.\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1504\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126950\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/la-ciccia.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/la-ciccia-160x241.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/la-ciccia-800x1203.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/la-ciccia-768x1155.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/la-ciccia-798x1200.jpg 798w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/la-ciccia-960x1444.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/la-ciccia-240x361.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/la-ciccia-375x564.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/la-ciccia-520x782.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Massimiliano Conti and Lorella Degan hugging in front of La Ciccia celebrating their 10th anniversary. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Massimiliano Conti and Lorella Degan)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>After over a decade of successful business, Lorella says La Ciccia is a humble restaurant, whose sole focus is providing good food. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Food in Italy is the center of communion,” Lorella said. “Food is not only to feed you as person, it is to feed your soul. It’s a very important part of Italian culture.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126906\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3675-new.jpg\" alt=\"Spaghittusu cun Allu Ollu e Bottariga (Fresh Spaghetti Spicy Garlic Oil Salt Cured Fish Roe)\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126906\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3675-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3675-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3675-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3675-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3675-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3675-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3675-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3675-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3675-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3675-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3675-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Spaghittusu cun Allu Ollu e Bottariga (Fresh Spaghetti Spicy Garlic Oil Salt Cured Fish Roe) \u003ccite>(Patrick Wong)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Massimiliano and Lorella originally moved to Washington, D.C. from Italy in the early 1990s, and would later move to San Francisco. Massimiliano is originally from the island of Sardinia and Lorella is from an area just outside of Venice. Both had been to San Francisco before, loved the food scene, weather, and for Massimiliano particularly, the proximity to water.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Massimiliano and Lorella shared a love for food and worked in the food and wine world when they first moved to San Francisco, but they never intended to work together. But their mutual “little dream” as Lorella put it, brought them together to create a place to showcase the food of Sardinia. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Everybody goes to Italy. Most of my customers have gone many times. It’s Sicily always, Tuscany, Amalfi Coast, and Rome. But Sardinia is out there in the middle of the Mediterranean, so it’s quite removed. But it’s still a part of Italy.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126904\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3653-new.jpg\" alt=\"Prupisceddu in Umidu cun Tomatiga (Baby Octopus stew in a spicy Tomato Sauce)\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126904\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3653-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3653-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3653-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3653-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3653-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3653-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3653-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3653-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3653-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3653-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3653-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Prupisceddu in Umidu cun Tomatiga (Baby Octopus stew in a spicy Tomato Sauce) \u003ccite>(Patrick Wong)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As Lorella explained, Sardinian cuisine is straight-forward--letting the main ingredients in a dish shine. Historically, Sardinian food, despite originating from an island, used mostly cured meats (namely pork) and veggies. It was not until the people of Sardinia started venturing to the island’s coast that more seafood was introduced to the Sardinian diet. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, La Ciccia sources a large amount of their ingredients right from Sardinia, including cured tuna heart and bottarga, a cured fish roe usually from a grey mullet. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bottarga has become a main component of one of La Ciccia’s most popular dishes--their fresh spaghetti with bottarga--which is grated over the pasta, mimicking the look of gold flakes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126905\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3673-new.jpg\" alt=\"Spaghittusu cun Allu Ollu e Bottariga (Fresh Spaghetti Spicy Garlic Oil Salt Cured Fish Roe)\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126905\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3673-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3673-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3673-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3673-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3673-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3673-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3673-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3673-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3673-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3673-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3673-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Spaghittusu cun Allu Ollu e Bottariga (Fresh Spaghetti Spicy Garlic Oil Salt Cured Fish Roe) \u003ccite>(Patrick Wong)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“The dish is so popular that some people will order the pasta for their main course and ask to have it for dessert as well,” Lorella said. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>La Ciccia -- which roughly translates to an Italian term of endearment meaning “baby fat”-- celebrated their 12 year anniversary earlier this month. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lorella admits that the restaurant business isn’t easy and staying successful requires “working hard everyday and to challenge yourself everyday.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But she also says that she is lucky to live her dream with her husband daily.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“No matter how hard the last day was, the next day is better,” she said. “We never forget where we come from.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126902\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3630-new.jpg\" alt=\"Truta de Arrescottu (Sardinian Ricotta and Saffron Cake Honey and Toasted Almond)\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126902\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3630-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3630-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3630-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3630-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3630-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3630-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3630-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3630-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3630-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3630-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3630-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Truta de Arrescottu (Sardinian Ricotta and Saffron Cake Honey and Toasted Almond) \u003ccite>(Patrick Wong)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As La Ciccia has built a loyal and ever-growing clientele, Lorella says that she has seen shifts in who is coming to the restaurant to enjoy their food. The neighborhood, she added, has transitioned and includes more people who have moved in to work at the large tech companies like Facebook and Apple. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Despite any changes, though, La Ciccia still remains one of the mainstays in the city for Italian food. Lorella says there’s no immediate plan to expand La Ciccia, or if she and her husband will ever want to start something new down the line, but she said if that ever happened, it would still definitely involve food. \u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"http://ariasf.com\">ARIA Korean Tapas\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/Aria+Korean+Tapas/@37.786559,-122.4202647,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x80858091541c151f:0x6429aca5330ad7d9!8m2!3d37.7865548!4d-122.418076\">932 Larkin St, San Francisco, CA 94109\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126889\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3293-new.jpg\" alt=\"The Combo B; Spicy Pork Stir-Fry Ramen with Egg, Korean Fried Chicken, Ganjung Fried Chicken (fried chicken tossed with sauce), Bulgogi Kimbap\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126889\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3293-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3293-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3293-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3293-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3293-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3293-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3293-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3293-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3293-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3293-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3293-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Combo B; Spicy Pork Stir-Fry Ramen with Egg, Korean Fried Chicken, Ganjung Fried Chicken (fried chicken tossed with sauce), Bulgogi Kimbap \u003ccite>(Patrick Wong)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Nestled in a hole-in-the-wall in the Tenderloin, ARIA has become a popular destination for Korean fried chicken and other traditional Korean street food including kimbap (Korean rice rolls) and tteokbokki (spicy rice cakes). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Opened by a husband and wife in 2012, their son, Charlie Kim, later joined his parents (after attending UCLA) to help operate the grab-and-go restaurant. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126886\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/aria-mom-and-pop-new.jpg\" alt=\"Charlie (right) and his parents\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126886\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/aria-mom-and-pop-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/aria-mom-and-pop-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/aria-mom-and-pop-new-800x1066.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/aria-mom-and-pop-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/aria-mom-and-pop-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/aria-mom-and-pop-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/aria-mom-and-pop-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/aria-mom-and-pop-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/aria-mom-and-pop-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Charlie (right) and his parents \u003ccite>(courtesy of Aria)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Their entire family had been working in the food world far before opening ARIA. Charlie said his paternal grandparents operated a dumpling house in Seoul while his maternal grandparents ran a North Korean-style breakfast and lunch spot in Seoul as well. When his parents married, his mother was also running an American steakhouse outside Seoul, before moving to the U.S. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Originally an ailing fish and chips restaurant run by Charlie’s uncle, Charlie’s mother decided to open ARIA after noticing that Korean food in San Francisco was quite expensive and focused on dishes like pancakes, japchae, and stone pot. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Our family wants to offer more of a variety of street food,” Charlie said. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Charlie assisted his parents in operating ARIA while he was a sophomore in college and returned full-time in 2016 after graduating from UCLA and working in marketing in Los Angeles. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“A family-run restaurant is definitely not an easy system when it comes to a parent and son ownership.” Charlie said. “When I came back in 2016, we really struggled to find ARIA on the same page.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of the bigger struggles was consolidating the menu and revamping the physical space in the restaurant itself. Both things that Charlie and his parents did not see eye to eye on. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Eventually, the family moved to hone in on the grab-and-go concept, eliminating many of their tables and chairs and focusing the menu on their popular Korean fried chicken. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126888\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3306-new.jpg\" alt=\"Korean Fried Chicken\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126888\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3306-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3306-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3306-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3306-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3306-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3306-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3306-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3306-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3306-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3306-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3306-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Korean Fried Chicken \u003ccite>(Patrick Wong)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Charlie would also put ARIA on the social media map, infusing their street food menu with street culture on Instagram. While working with local Tenderloin artists, ARIA was eventually contacted by local hip hop musicians, streetwear designers, artists, and media sites for collaborations. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Despite consistently selling out of their fried chicken, Charlie says he can’t say if he thinks ARIA is successful, but he said that they are continuously working towards making a name in the street food game. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126887\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3307.-new.jpg\" alt=\"Ganjung Fried Chicken\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126887\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3307.-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3307.-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3307.-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3307.-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3307.-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3307.-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3307.-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3307.-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3307.-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3307.-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/19A3307.-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ganjung Fried Chicken \u003ccite>(Patrick Wong)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“I received a lot of questions and consulting requests from a few Korean restaurants in the Bay Area. I always say to them, do not work to make money and pay your bills. Do it to share your culture and people will come,” Charlie said. “Definitely a tough industry and lots of competition, but I enjoy this every day.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Charlie said that he has received requests to open ARIA locations all over the U.S., including New York, LA, and Texas. For now, though, Charlie said a second ARIA location is on the way in the Bay Area and will be announced in the next couple months. \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Avery Opens on Fillmore as SF’s Next Elaborate Tasting Menu Destination",
"title": "Avery Opens on Fillmore as SF’s Next Elaborate Tasting Menu Destination",
"headTitle": "New Restaurants 2018 | Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cem>San Francisco’s latest tasting menu experience opens on Fillmore from a talented and artistic alum of Saison, Atelier Crenn and Benu.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The French Laundry has its salmon tartare cornets. Benu wows every guest with lobster coral xiao long bao. Saison presents diners with an ethereal sea urchin-topped slice of grilled bread each evening when the precious uni is in season. Chef Rodney Wages’ showstopper of a dish, simply called ‘tortellini en brodo,’ packs an equally profound wallop in the same rapid series of powerful flavors as those Northern California hall of fame dishes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126802\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1949-new.jpg\" alt=\"Tortellini en brodo at Avery\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126802\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1949-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1949-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1949-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1949-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1949-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1949-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1949-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1949-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1949-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1949-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1949-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tortellini en brodo at Avery \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Now, hold on a second. Wages’ debut full-time restaurant, Avery, was just unveiled to the shark-infested waters of the discerning SF dining public and can’t be and shouldn’t be talked about in the same ways as those world-renowned legends at such a young age. However, that signature dish of his pop-up, R.T.B., lives on as a new and defining few bites and spoonfuls at the pop-up’s brick and mortar personality, Avery.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The dish is a remarkable creation in the same pleasurable “hammer you over the head with dense, unrelenting luxurious flavors” as those aforementioned tasting menu staples from the Bay Area’s top toques. Wages takes a rustic Bolognese classic and fills the petite-sized tortellini with cultured butter and mushrooms. Then he partners them with brined and smoked foie gras morsels that boast so much of the latter’s intensity you’d swear they were marinated with mezcal. Then the foie gras and tortellini float in a brodo based on garlic skins — a little seasonal California spark. Everything explodes with precise flavors — fat, umami, nuttiness.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the pop-up’s days, the dish saw a few different broths, often one based on grilled bacon that really amped up the smoky-rich-meaty profile, but has been tweaked for Avery. It likely will continue to evolve and may even leave the menu tomorrow. Or, it may stay on the menu for decades like Thomas Keller’s salmon cornets. Who knows? Wages is without question a chef and an artist — and artists never settle for anything. This work is just one of several masterpieces diners will encounter in Avery’s opening days.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It shouldn’t be too surprising that there is an artistic angle to the restaurant — from Wages’ food on the delicate plates and ceramics procured from all over the world to the pristine, two-level space — because Avery’s namesake is the early to mid 20\u003csup>th\u003c/sup> century American artist, \u003ca href=\"https://www.wikiart.org/en/milton-avery\">Milton Avery\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>R.T.B.’s namesake is the playful abbreviation for Wages’ given nickname from some fellow chefs: “Rod the Bod.” Avery, on the other hand, doesn’t have much of a personal connection. It’s not like Milton Avery is Wages’ artistic idol or that there is some deep meaning that opened his eyes to the world and Avery convinced him to be a chef. Wages and his business partner/Avery’s general manager, Matthew Mako, are fascinated by the artist’s intense color explorations and abstract presentations of nature and see similarities between that and their idea for Avery as an imaginative, high-end fine dining stripped down to a casual, relaxed experience. Plus, Avery is a short and sweet name and starts with “A.” So, there’s that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126931\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1512px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/40700623681_51679c84f6_k.jpg\" alt=\"Matthew Mako and Chef Rodney Wages and his dog.\" width=\"1512\" height=\"2048\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126931\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/40700623681_51679c84f6_k.jpg 1512w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/40700623681_51679c84f6_k-160x217.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/40700623681_51679c84f6_k-800x1084.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/40700623681_51679c84f6_k-768x1040.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/40700623681_51679c84f6_k-1020x1382.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/40700623681_51679c84f6_k-886x1200.jpg 886w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/40700623681_51679c84f6_k-1180x1598.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/40700623681_51679c84f6_k-960x1300.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/40700623681_51679c84f6_k-240x325.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/40700623681_51679c84f6_k-375x508.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/40700623681_51679c84f6_k-520x704.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1512px) 100vw, 1512px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Matthew Mako and Chef Rodney Wages and his dog. \u003ccite>(Isabel Baer)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In the SF pop-up world, there are chefs who came out of nowhere (Lazy Bear) and then there are the majority of the chefs who have worked their way up the ladder in the region’s best restaurants (Liholiho Yacht Club) and decided it’s time to do their own thing. Wages is squarely in the latter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The chef is a native of Kansas and much of his culinary vision can be credited to what is lacking across his home state’s prairies but is abundant in the Bay Area. Wages’ started restaurant cooking (and dishwashing) as a 15-year old in Leavenworth, Kansas, a town best known for its prison that housed Michael Vick for operating a dog-fighting ring and James Earl Ray a decade before he assassinated Martin Luther King Jr.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Later in high school, Rodney helped those restaurant owners in Leavenworth open a fried chicken concept one town away and that’s when he acknowledges first seriously catching the cooking bug. He graduated from high school a semester early after seeing a cooking school ad in a newspaper and that led him to the Cordon Bleu school in Minneapolis. An internship at the French Laundry proved to be his golden ticket in the industry, spending four years moving around the kitchen in Yountville under its then-chef de cuisine Corey Lee (now chef-owner of Benu) before Wages left to help open (recently closed) RN74 in San Francisco. Wages credits a dinner that he cooked with Lee in Lee’s native Seoul, South Korea as opening his eyes to the techniques and ingredients of East Asian cuisines that was a key part of R.T.B’s style and now Avery’s.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wages later joined Lee to open Benu and then delved deeper into East Asian cooking (specifically Japan) as chef de cuisine of Morimoto in Napa. He returned to San Francisco fine dining afterwards at Saison, where his name started popping up on “future chefs to watch” radars in the city after two and a half years at the SoMa fixture. That’s where he picked up a love for live-fire cooking — Saison’s signature style and one that occurs again and again at Avery. The chef briefly left the restaurant world to start his own caviar business but decided that cooking for diners is more of his style than selling to customers. So, it was off to Atelier Crenn for a year as chef de cuisine, where he learned more about the business side of restaurants by helping with communications and operations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That can only mean one thing for highly talented San Francisco chefs — next stop: pop-up then permanent restaurant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126798\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1759-new.jpg\" alt=\"Upstairs dining area at Avery\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126798\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1759-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1759-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1759-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1759-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1759-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1759-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1759-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1759-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1759-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1759-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1759-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Upstairs dining area at Avery \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Avery’s staff comes mainly from those final two SF heavyweights on Wages’ resume. Chef de cuisine Kristina Compton was executive sous chef for Wages at Atelier Crenn. Sommelier Daniel Bromberg worked at Les Clos, a now closed wine bar sibling to Saison. Mako was a maître’d at Saison, in addition to working on the opening team at Benu where he met Wages. In short, it’s all in the family of SF tasting menu restaurants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Compared to the likes of Saison, Benu and Atelier Crenn, Avery is a downright bargain. Of course, it’s a pricey night out but it’s not on the same level of credit card blowout as those peers. The “Cello Player” of seven to nine courses is $89 and the “Shades of Spring” featuring 10-15 courses is $189. Don’t worry, the longer menu will change its name each season. Yes, both menus are indeed named for works by Milton Avery. And, if you are seeking that next-level extravagant menu, then there’s always “Avery’s Room,” the private dining room with a $289 special menu for six to eight guests.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wages’ cooking falls into the category of lots of ‘kind ofs’ where it’s New American meets contemporary Californian and abstract modernism, with lots of live-fire cooking, some distinct influences from East Asian cuisines and a few hints of European classics tossed in. Confused? Yes, so let’s bypass the labels and sum it up as a deeply personal, highly stylized and very ambitious style of cooking that originates from California’s seasons and covers a wide spectrum of concepts from there, led by live-fire grilling and East Asia.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Similar to R.T.B., the menu descriptions are what you might call \u003cem>simple\u003c/em>. There are no shout outs to the farms of Bolinas and in-depth lists of the sauce ingredients. The ‘tortellini en brodo’ is called just that and resides in the middle of both hand-written menus.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The menus will constantly change but, for now, a broth with grains starts both menus. A few dishes from the longer menu, like ‘caviar,’ ‘jamon Iberico,’ ‘Fort Bragg sea urchin’ and ‘snow beef’ made from Wagyu, are offered as supplements on the $89 menu. Otherwise, they have the same core dishes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Everyone will enjoy a golden spoonful of smoked trout roe hiding an aioli-like concoction made of whipped avocado and sesame. It arrives paired with ‘raw,’ some delicate sashimi, that might be sea bream one night and kanpachi on the next night.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126776\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7676-new.jpg\" alt=\"Smoked trout roe hiding an aioli-like concoction made of whipped avocado and sesame\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126776\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7676-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7676-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7676-new-800x1066.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7676-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7676-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7676-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7676-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7676-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7676-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Smoked trout roe hiding an aioli-like concoction made of whipped avocado and sesame \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126775\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7675-new.jpg\" alt=\"Paired with ‘raw,’ some delicate sashimi\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126775\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7675-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7675-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7675-new-800x1066.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7675-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7675-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7675-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7675-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7675-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7675-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Paired with ‘raw,’ some delicate sashimi \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Oysters and aebleskivers come next. It’s not a natural pairing of two dishes being served together but should be. Each oyster is slightly charred to the point of being raw and smoky, joining grilled asparagus and grilled ramps in a French-inspired white wine broth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126779\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7698-new.jpg\" alt=\"Oysters\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126779\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7698-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7698-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7698-new-800x1066.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7698-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7698-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7698-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7698-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7698-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7698-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Oysters \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>‘Aebleskivers’ are Danish doughnut holes or beignets, often served in the traditional sphere-shape and adorned with various glazes or stuffed with fillings. For the world’s gastronomic jet set crowd, aebleskivers are known as a photogenic and frequent staple at Noma in Copenhagen, filled with a tiny fish called \u003cem>muikko\u003c/em> with the head and tail poking out both ends. Wages one-ups Redzepi’s aebleskiver creativity with a labor intensive version based on an egg-enriched batter that fluffs up into a shape and consistency like a Parker House roll. It’s filled with diced broccoli that has been blanched in a seaweed broth and grilled with onion butter, then joins garlic puree in the center of the orbs. Then the orbs are topped with garlic mayonnaise, fried shrimp and charred scallions, completing a bread-crispy seafood-mayonnaise trifecta that is as much an example of Japanese takoyaki as it is a stylized Danish doughnut.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126778\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7693-new.jpg\" alt=\"Aebleskivers\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126778\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7693-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7693-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7693-new-800x1066.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7693-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7693-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7693-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7693-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7693-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7693-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Aebleskivers \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Jumping from France and Denmark to Southeast Asia, the seafaring dishes continue with a ‘lobster curry’ fortified by Thai spices, yogurt and coconut oil. Again, the seafood of choice is ever so lightly grilled and chopped into minute pieces, ready to be enjoyed spoonful by spoonful with ‘bamboo rice’ and lentils.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126780\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7701-new.jpg\" alt=\"'Lobster curry’ fortified by Thai spices, yogurt and coconut oil\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126780\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7701-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7701-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7701-new-800x1066.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7701-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7701-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7701-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7701-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7701-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7701-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">'Lobster curry’ fortified by Thai spices, yogurt and coconut oil \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Then comes the ‘tortellini en brodo,’ followed by ‘Northern coast,’ an abstract surf and turf ode to our San Francisco to Eureka coastline. Lamb from Mendocino comes in two forms — raw tenderloin draped over wild nettles and morel mushrooms; and belly that is heavily charred to the point of almost bacon. Abalone with seaweed and coastal greens rounds out the dish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126782\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7709-new.jpg\" alt=\"Tortellini en brodo\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126782\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7709-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7709-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7709-new-800x1066.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7709-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7709-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7709-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7709-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7709-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7709-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tortellini en brodo \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126783\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7722-new.jpg\" alt=\"Northern coast,’ an abstract surf and turf ode to our San Francisco to Eureka coastline\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126783\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7722-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7722-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7722-new-800x1066.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7722-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7722-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7722-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7722-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7722-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7722-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">'Northern coast,’ an abstract surf and turf ode to our San Francisco to Eureka coastline \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Avery’s cheese course isn’t just a cart wheeled out and served with compotes and toast. It’s actually a cheese-pecan pie tart, where a buckwheat shell houses a layer of pecan pie filling accented with honey mustard and topped with Harbison, a bloomy-rind cheese wrapped in spruce bark from the esteemed Jasper Hill Farm in Vermont. ‘Cake’ and an ice cream course (sometimes made with foie gras at R.T.B.) complete the dinner.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126777\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7690-new.jpg\" alt=\"Cheese-pecan pie tart, where a buckwheat shell houses a layer of pecan pie filling accented with honey mustard and topped with Harbison\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126777\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7690-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7690-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7690-new-800x1066.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7690-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7690-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7690-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7690-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7690-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7690-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cheese-pecan pie tart, where a buckwheat shell houses a layer of pecan pie filling accented with honey mustard and topped with Harbison \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As mentioned before, Wages’ cooking style doesn’t always showcase East Asia flavors but several dishes do as shown above. On cue, the food’s main drinking partner will be sake from an extensive list created by Bromberg. He is an esteemed sake sommelier who helped launch SF’s go-to sake boutique, TrueSake in Hayes Valley, and even interned at Dassai, a sake brewery in Yamaguchi, Japan. His sake roster opens with 50 labels and will eventually grow to over 100 — a rarity in this city at non-expense account sushi and kaiseki restaurants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126774\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1724-new.jpg\" alt=\"Sake in wine cellar at Avery\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126774\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1724-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1724-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1724-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1724-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1724-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1724-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1724-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1724-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1724-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1724-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1724-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sake in wine cellar at Avery \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There is no better opportunity in San Francisco to explore aged sakes and the whole flavor spectrum of sake — from\u003cem> nama\u003c/em> (unpasteurized) to pure, premium \u003cem>daiginjo\u003c/em> — than what Bromberg presents at Avery, especially if you opt for the sake-only pairing (the same price as the tasting menus). Wine lovers, don’t worry — Champagne is the other main beverage specialty at Avery. Of course, there are also plenty of impressive New World and Old World bottles and glass pours to accompany dinner, along with a mixed drinks (wine, beer, sake and sparkling wine) pairing also for either $89 or $189.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126794\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1693-new.jpg\" alt=\"Champagne is the other main beverage specialty at Avery\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126794\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1693-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1693-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1693-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1693-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1693-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1693-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1693-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1693-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1693-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1693-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1693-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Champagne is the other main beverage specialty at Avery \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>R.T.B’s home for the latter stages of its pop-up is now where Avery resides, at a prominent position on Fillmore by Geary that’s mainly known as being the Block of State Bird Provisions. The space previously was another tasting menu restaurant, Mosu, that opened as exclusively a $198 tasting menu and became a gentrification symbol much in the same way as Google buses. Diners (other than \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/restaurants/article/When-new-restaurants-push-the-price-too-far-too-8380503.php\">one prominent critic\u003c/a>) felt the food was indeed spectacular (this writer was in that camp) but the space was austere and simple to the point of almost seeming too harsh for appreciating such complex food. Mosu’s chef-owner, Sung Anh, has moved on to open a concept in Seoul and this opportunity presented itself for Wages. There is a definite connection of why this hand off took place so seamlessly compared to most SF restaurant changes. The two worked together at the French Laundry under Corey Lee and Wages considers Sung a mentor. Compton also was a sous chef for Sung during Mosu’s one-year run.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>San Francisco-based designer Noz Nozawa of \u003ca href=\"http://nozdesign.co/xz8dmu6fydhlbarrtb4bhxdv75t6bs\">Noz Design\u003c/a> reinvigorated the Mosu interior, with the help of Wages and Mako, keeping the same semi-hidden upstairs-downstairs set-up that makes the space somewhat quirky and like dining in a loft with bunk bed-style dining rooms. The entryway has no second story, giving off a grand welcome with the frosted floor to ceiling windows streaming in sunlight but blocking out the Fillmore street activity. A screen-like, semi-secret black wall blocks off the ground floor’s ten seats from the door, adding intrigue to the downstairs dining area where the longer tasting menu is served. The screen-like wall rises to the ceiling and also provides a pseudo-hidden feel for the upstairs dining area where 16 diners can enjoy the shorter tasting menu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126801\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1843-new.jpg\" alt=\"Downstairs dining area at Avery\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126801\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1843-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1843-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1843-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1843-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1843-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1843-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1843-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1843-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1843-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1843-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1843-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Downstairs dining area at Avery \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Avery’s two levels are attached by a stairway to the left side of the front door and the immaculate kitchen is attached to the downstairs dining room and appears in clear view with no walls or doors, in the rear of the space. A private dining room, called “Avery’s Room,” is right above the kitchen on the second floor. It’s there that you’ll find some of the wine collection in a gorgeous cellar, ducks and lamb bones dry aging and vegetables pickling in a refrigerator, and all sorts of minute design elements like…Corey Lee’s Benu cookbook and some books on Milton Avery paintings.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126793\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1675-new.jpg\" alt='Private dining area \"Avery’s Room\" with wine cellar upstairs at Avery' width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126793\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1675-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1675-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1675-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1675-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1675-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1675-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1675-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1675-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1675-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1675-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1675-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Private dining area \"Avery’s Room\" with wine cellar upstairs at Avery \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126772\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1683-new.jpg\" alt=\" Ducks and lamb bones dry aging and vegetables pickling in refrigerator\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126772\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1683-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1683-new-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1683-new-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1683-new-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1683-new-960x1440.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1683-new-240x360.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1683-new-375x563.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1683-new-520x780.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ducks and lamb bones dry aging and vegetables pickling in a refrigerator \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Much of the interior’s look is inspired by the earth and sea, bringing together bold swaths of charcoal black, teal and deep green that combine for a design motif that does actually seem to be one part ocean, one part forest and one part stark modernism. Chic black banquettes and bare black tables simply adorned with shell-like candle spheres and tiny plants in coral-like miniature pots serve as a contemporary juxtaposition to the retro, almost “Mad Men” era-evoking white chairs with delightfully oversized backs designed by the legendary Italian firm, Calligaris. Soft, gray mohair blankets on the banquettes invite cozying up, which some diners might be tempted by after course eight and the third glass of wine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Also, make sure to look up to appreciate the dramatic light fixtures and the skylight in the Avery room, along with looking down to see the elegant patterned carpeting that can look like tide pools along the coast from certain angles.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With all of this design talk, let’s not get ahead of ourselves — the striking interior elements in the two dining spaces are most certainly the custom Venetian plaster wall treatments with murals by \u003ca href=\"http://<a%20href=\" https:>San Francisco-based artist Victor Reyes\u003c/a>. They’re so impressive that there is a museum-like label and description of the work in the alcove between the downstairs dining room and the kitchen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126795\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1739-new.jpg\" alt=\"Upstairs dining area at Avery with Venetian plaster wall treatments by San Francisco-based artist Victor Reyes\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126795\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1739-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1739-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1739-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1739-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1739-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1739-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1739-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1739-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1739-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1739-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1739-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Upstairs dining area at Avery with Venetian plaster wall treatments by San Francisco-based artist Victor Reyes \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Growing up in Milwaukee and Orange County, Reyes was inspired by \u003ca href=\"http://www.francis-bacon.com/paintings\">Francis Bacon\u003c/a>’s provocatively dark, yet beautiful works and eventually that led Reyes to become an artist — a graffiti artist, that is. Reyes’ outdoor art and murals really got noticed after his move to San Francisco and a project of painting each letter of the alphabet in the Mission. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Since then, he has received lots of attention and praise for his fascinating artistic sense of exploration and pursuit of mystery through breaking down recognizable objects. Like most modern art, everyone will have their own opinion of what the dining room mural is presenting but there’s no doubt that the sweeping brushes of sea blue against the pale plaster call to mind ocean waves (there’s the earth and sea element, again) and a gritty edge to the elegance provided by luxurious glassware and the finest ingredients on the table. Dare we say, it’s almost a little like a work Avery might do?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Overall, the restaurant’s look is a thrilling, eloquent clash of the unfinished and the refined, the industrial and the polished — something we’ve seen for two decades at bistros, bars and gastropubs and we’re seeing more and more of at higher-end restaurants (see: Benu). Avery has hip hop on the soundtrack, exposed pipes running along the ceiling and plenty of jamon Iberico, foie gras and smoked trout roe for the crowd — yes, the days of Masa’s and Ernie’s are over.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are also plans for an investor to bring in an actual Avery painting to be a part of the interior design, so stay tuned.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We’re certainly starting to see culinary art literally work together with visual art. It’s an exciting direction for dining to go towards. Remember, it was Corey Lee who brought an innovative restaurant concept, In Situ, to SF MoMA. Now the roles are reversed — the restaurant welcomes the art museum — or, at least is welcoming the artist.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After all, isn’t the best kind of art the edible kind? Don’t we all wish we could take a bite out of the still lifes by Cézanne? Well, this art at Avery is very edible and each tasting menu is as striking as the restaurant namesake’s portfolio of work.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126803\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1836-new.jpg\" alt=\"The entryway to Avery\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126803\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1836-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1836-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1836-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1836-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1836-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1836-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1836-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1836-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1836-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1836-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1836-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The entryway to Avery \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003ca href=\"http://www.averysf.com\">\u003cstrong>Avery\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n1552 Fillmore St. \u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/RTB+Fillmore/@37.7840602,-122.434765,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x80858062edd49d5f:0xd5dacdc7799506e!8m2!3d37.784056!4d-122.432571\">MAP\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94116\u003cbr>\nPh: (415) 817-1187\u003cbr>\nHours: Dinner Wed–Sun from 5:30pm-9:30pm; closed Monday and Tuesday\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/averyinsf/\">Avery\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nInstagram: \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/avery_sf/\">@avery_sf\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nPrice Range: $$$$ (tasting menus begin at $89 per person)\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "San Francisco’s latest tasting menu experience opens on Fillmore from a talented and artistic alum of Saison, Atelier Crenn and Benu.",
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"description": "San Francisco’s latest tasting menu experience opens on Fillmore from a talented and artistic alum of Saison, Atelier Crenn and Benu.",
"title": "Avery Opens on Fillmore as SF’s Next Elaborate Tasting Menu Destination | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cem>San Francisco’s latest tasting menu experience opens on Fillmore from a talented and artistic alum of Saison, Atelier Crenn and Benu.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The French Laundry has its salmon tartare cornets. Benu wows every guest with lobster coral xiao long bao. Saison presents diners with an ethereal sea urchin-topped slice of grilled bread each evening when the precious uni is in season. Chef Rodney Wages’ showstopper of a dish, simply called ‘tortellini en brodo,’ packs an equally profound wallop in the same rapid series of powerful flavors as those Northern California hall of fame dishes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126802\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1949-new.jpg\" alt=\"Tortellini en brodo at Avery\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126802\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1949-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1949-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1949-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1949-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1949-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1949-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1949-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1949-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1949-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1949-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1949-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tortellini en brodo at Avery \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Now, hold on a second. Wages’ debut full-time restaurant, Avery, was just unveiled to the shark-infested waters of the discerning SF dining public and can’t be and shouldn’t be talked about in the same ways as those world-renowned legends at such a young age. However, that signature dish of his pop-up, R.T.B., lives on as a new and defining few bites and spoonfuls at the pop-up’s brick and mortar personality, Avery.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The dish is a remarkable creation in the same pleasurable “hammer you over the head with dense, unrelenting luxurious flavors” as those aforementioned tasting menu staples from the Bay Area’s top toques. Wages takes a rustic Bolognese classic and fills the petite-sized tortellini with cultured butter and mushrooms. Then he partners them with brined and smoked foie gras morsels that boast so much of the latter’s intensity you’d swear they were marinated with mezcal. Then the foie gras and tortellini float in a brodo based on garlic skins — a little seasonal California spark. Everything explodes with precise flavors — fat, umami, nuttiness.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the pop-up’s days, the dish saw a few different broths, often one based on grilled bacon that really amped up the smoky-rich-meaty profile, but has been tweaked for Avery. It likely will continue to evolve and may even leave the menu tomorrow. Or, it may stay on the menu for decades like Thomas Keller’s salmon cornets. Who knows? Wages is without question a chef and an artist — and artists never settle for anything. This work is just one of several masterpieces diners will encounter in Avery’s opening days.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It shouldn’t be too surprising that there is an artistic angle to the restaurant — from Wages’ food on the delicate plates and ceramics procured from all over the world to the pristine, two-level space — because Avery’s namesake is the early to mid 20\u003csup>th\u003c/sup> century American artist, \u003ca href=\"https://www.wikiart.org/en/milton-avery\">Milton Avery\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>R.T.B.’s namesake is the playful abbreviation for Wages’ given nickname from some fellow chefs: “Rod the Bod.” Avery, on the other hand, doesn’t have much of a personal connection. It’s not like Milton Avery is Wages’ artistic idol or that there is some deep meaning that opened his eyes to the world and Avery convinced him to be a chef. Wages and his business partner/Avery’s general manager, Matthew Mako, are fascinated by the artist’s intense color explorations and abstract presentations of nature and see similarities between that and their idea for Avery as an imaginative, high-end fine dining stripped down to a casual, relaxed experience. Plus, Avery is a short and sweet name and starts with “A.” So, there’s that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126931\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1512px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/40700623681_51679c84f6_k.jpg\" alt=\"Matthew Mako and Chef Rodney Wages and his dog.\" width=\"1512\" height=\"2048\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126931\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/40700623681_51679c84f6_k.jpg 1512w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/40700623681_51679c84f6_k-160x217.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/40700623681_51679c84f6_k-800x1084.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/40700623681_51679c84f6_k-768x1040.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/40700623681_51679c84f6_k-1020x1382.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/40700623681_51679c84f6_k-886x1200.jpg 886w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/40700623681_51679c84f6_k-1180x1598.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/40700623681_51679c84f6_k-960x1300.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/40700623681_51679c84f6_k-240x325.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/40700623681_51679c84f6_k-375x508.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/40700623681_51679c84f6_k-520x704.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1512px) 100vw, 1512px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Matthew Mako and Chef Rodney Wages and his dog. \u003ccite>(Isabel Baer)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In the SF pop-up world, there are chefs who came out of nowhere (Lazy Bear) and then there are the majority of the chefs who have worked their way up the ladder in the region’s best restaurants (Liholiho Yacht Club) and decided it’s time to do their own thing. Wages is squarely in the latter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The chef is a native of Kansas and much of his culinary vision can be credited to what is lacking across his home state’s prairies but is abundant in the Bay Area. Wages’ started restaurant cooking (and dishwashing) as a 15-year old in Leavenworth, Kansas, a town best known for its prison that housed Michael Vick for operating a dog-fighting ring and James Earl Ray a decade before he assassinated Martin Luther King Jr.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Later in high school, Rodney helped those restaurant owners in Leavenworth open a fried chicken concept one town away and that’s when he acknowledges first seriously catching the cooking bug. He graduated from high school a semester early after seeing a cooking school ad in a newspaper and that led him to the Cordon Bleu school in Minneapolis. An internship at the French Laundry proved to be his golden ticket in the industry, spending four years moving around the kitchen in Yountville under its then-chef de cuisine Corey Lee (now chef-owner of Benu) before Wages left to help open (recently closed) RN74 in San Francisco. Wages credits a dinner that he cooked with Lee in Lee’s native Seoul, South Korea as opening his eyes to the techniques and ingredients of East Asian cuisines that was a key part of R.T.B’s style and now Avery’s.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wages later joined Lee to open Benu and then delved deeper into East Asian cooking (specifically Japan) as chef de cuisine of Morimoto in Napa. He returned to San Francisco fine dining afterwards at Saison, where his name started popping up on “future chefs to watch” radars in the city after two and a half years at the SoMa fixture. That’s where he picked up a love for live-fire cooking — Saison’s signature style and one that occurs again and again at Avery. The chef briefly left the restaurant world to start his own caviar business but decided that cooking for diners is more of his style than selling to customers. So, it was off to Atelier Crenn for a year as chef de cuisine, where he learned more about the business side of restaurants by helping with communications and operations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That can only mean one thing for highly talented San Francisco chefs — next stop: pop-up then permanent restaurant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126798\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1759-new.jpg\" alt=\"Upstairs dining area at Avery\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126798\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1759-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1759-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1759-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1759-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1759-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1759-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1759-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1759-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1759-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1759-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1759-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Upstairs dining area at Avery \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Avery’s staff comes mainly from those final two SF heavyweights on Wages’ resume. Chef de cuisine Kristina Compton was executive sous chef for Wages at Atelier Crenn. Sommelier Daniel Bromberg worked at Les Clos, a now closed wine bar sibling to Saison. Mako was a maître’d at Saison, in addition to working on the opening team at Benu where he met Wages. In short, it’s all in the family of SF tasting menu restaurants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Compared to the likes of Saison, Benu and Atelier Crenn, Avery is a downright bargain. Of course, it’s a pricey night out but it’s not on the same level of credit card blowout as those peers. The “Cello Player” of seven to nine courses is $89 and the “Shades of Spring” featuring 10-15 courses is $189. Don’t worry, the longer menu will change its name each season. Yes, both menus are indeed named for works by Milton Avery. And, if you are seeking that next-level extravagant menu, then there’s always “Avery’s Room,” the private dining room with a $289 special menu for six to eight guests.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wages’ cooking falls into the category of lots of ‘kind ofs’ where it’s New American meets contemporary Californian and abstract modernism, with lots of live-fire cooking, some distinct influences from East Asian cuisines and a few hints of European classics tossed in. Confused? Yes, so let’s bypass the labels and sum it up as a deeply personal, highly stylized and very ambitious style of cooking that originates from California’s seasons and covers a wide spectrum of concepts from there, led by live-fire grilling and East Asia.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Similar to R.T.B., the menu descriptions are what you might call \u003cem>simple\u003c/em>. There are no shout outs to the farms of Bolinas and in-depth lists of the sauce ingredients. The ‘tortellini en brodo’ is called just that and resides in the middle of both hand-written menus.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The menus will constantly change but, for now, a broth with grains starts both menus. A few dishes from the longer menu, like ‘caviar,’ ‘jamon Iberico,’ ‘Fort Bragg sea urchin’ and ‘snow beef’ made from Wagyu, are offered as supplements on the $89 menu. Otherwise, they have the same core dishes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Everyone will enjoy a golden spoonful of smoked trout roe hiding an aioli-like concoction made of whipped avocado and sesame. It arrives paired with ‘raw,’ some delicate sashimi, that might be sea bream one night and kanpachi on the next night.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126776\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7676-new.jpg\" alt=\"Smoked trout roe hiding an aioli-like concoction made of whipped avocado and sesame\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126776\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7676-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7676-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7676-new-800x1066.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7676-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7676-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7676-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7676-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7676-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7676-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Smoked trout roe hiding an aioli-like concoction made of whipped avocado and sesame \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126775\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7675-new.jpg\" alt=\"Paired with ‘raw,’ some delicate sashimi\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126775\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7675-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7675-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7675-new-800x1066.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7675-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7675-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7675-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7675-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7675-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7675-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Paired with ‘raw,’ some delicate sashimi \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Oysters and aebleskivers come next. It’s not a natural pairing of two dishes being served together but should be. Each oyster is slightly charred to the point of being raw and smoky, joining grilled asparagus and grilled ramps in a French-inspired white wine broth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126779\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7698-new.jpg\" alt=\"Oysters\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126779\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7698-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7698-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7698-new-800x1066.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7698-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7698-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7698-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7698-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7698-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7698-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Oysters \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>‘Aebleskivers’ are Danish doughnut holes or beignets, often served in the traditional sphere-shape and adorned with various glazes or stuffed with fillings. For the world’s gastronomic jet set crowd, aebleskivers are known as a photogenic and frequent staple at Noma in Copenhagen, filled with a tiny fish called \u003cem>muikko\u003c/em> with the head and tail poking out both ends. Wages one-ups Redzepi’s aebleskiver creativity with a labor intensive version based on an egg-enriched batter that fluffs up into a shape and consistency like a Parker House roll. It’s filled with diced broccoli that has been blanched in a seaweed broth and grilled with onion butter, then joins garlic puree in the center of the orbs. Then the orbs are topped with garlic mayonnaise, fried shrimp and charred scallions, completing a bread-crispy seafood-mayonnaise trifecta that is as much an example of Japanese takoyaki as it is a stylized Danish doughnut.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126778\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7693-new.jpg\" alt=\"Aebleskivers\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126778\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7693-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7693-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7693-new-800x1066.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7693-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7693-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7693-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7693-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7693-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7693-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Aebleskivers \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Jumping from France and Denmark to Southeast Asia, the seafaring dishes continue with a ‘lobster curry’ fortified by Thai spices, yogurt and coconut oil. Again, the seafood of choice is ever so lightly grilled and chopped into minute pieces, ready to be enjoyed spoonful by spoonful with ‘bamboo rice’ and lentils.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126780\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7701-new.jpg\" alt=\"'Lobster curry’ fortified by Thai spices, yogurt and coconut oil\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126780\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7701-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7701-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7701-new-800x1066.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7701-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7701-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7701-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7701-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7701-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7701-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">'Lobster curry’ fortified by Thai spices, yogurt and coconut oil \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Then comes the ‘tortellini en brodo,’ followed by ‘Northern coast,’ an abstract surf and turf ode to our San Francisco to Eureka coastline. Lamb from Mendocino comes in two forms — raw tenderloin draped over wild nettles and morel mushrooms; and belly that is heavily charred to the point of almost bacon. Abalone with seaweed and coastal greens rounds out the dish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126782\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7709-new.jpg\" alt=\"Tortellini en brodo\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126782\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7709-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7709-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7709-new-800x1066.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7709-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7709-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7709-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7709-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7709-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7709-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tortellini en brodo \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126783\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7722-new.jpg\" alt=\"Northern coast,’ an abstract surf and turf ode to our San Francisco to Eureka coastline\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126783\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7722-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7722-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7722-new-800x1066.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7722-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7722-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7722-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7722-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7722-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7722-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">'Northern coast,’ an abstract surf and turf ode to our San Francisco to Eureka coastline \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Avery’s cheese course isn’t just a cart wheeled out and served with compotes and toast. It’s actually a cheese-pecan pie tart, where a buckwheat shell houses a layer of pecan pie filling accented with honey mustard and topped with Harbison, a bloomy-rind cheese wrapped in spruce bark from the esteemed Jasper Hill Farm in Vermont. ‘Cake’ and an ice cream course (sometimes made with foie gras at R.T.B.) complete the dinner.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126777\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7690-new.jpg\" alt=\"Cheese-pecan pie tart, where a buckwheat shell houses a layer of pecan pie filling accented with honey mustard and topped with Harbison\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126777\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7690-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7690-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7690-new-800x1066.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7690-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7690-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7690-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7690-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7690-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7690-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cheese-pecan pie tart, where a buckwheat shell houses a layer of pecan pie filling accented with honey mustard and topped with Harbison \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As mentioned before, Wages’ cooking style doesn’t always showcase East Asia flavors but several dishes do as shown above. On cue, the food’s main drinking partner will be sake from an extensive list created by Bromberg. He is an esteemed sake sommelier who helped launch SF’s go-to sake boutique, TrueSake in Hayes Valley, and even interned at Dassai, a sake brewery in Yamaguchi, Japan. His sake roster opens with 50 labels and will eventually grow to over 100 — a rarity in this city at non-expense account sushi and kaiseki restaurants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126774\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1724-new.jpg\" alt=\"Sake in wine cellar at Avery\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126774\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1724-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1724-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1724-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1724-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1724-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1724-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1724-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1724-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1724-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1724-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1724-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sake in wine cellar at Avery \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There is no better opportunity in San Francisco to explore aged sakes and the whole flavor spectrum of sake — from\u003cem> nama\u003c/em> (unpasteurized) to pure, premium \u003cem>daiginjo\u003c/em> — than what Bromberg presents at Avery, especially if you opt for the sake-only pairing (the same price as the tasting menus). Wine lovers, don’t worry — Champagne is the other main beverage specialty at Avery. Of course, there are also plenty of impressive New World and Old World bottles and glass pours to accompany dinner, along with a mixed drinks (wine, beer, sake and sparkling wine) pairing also for either $89 or $189.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126794\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1693-new.jpg\" alt=\"Champagne is the other main beverage specialty at Avery\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126794\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1693-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1693-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1693-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1693-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1693-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1693-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1693-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1693-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1693-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1693-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1693-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Champagne is the other main beverage specialty at Avery \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>R.T.B’s home for the latter stages of its pop-up is now where Avery resides, at a prominent position on Fillmore by Geary that’s mainly known as being the Block of State Bird Provisions. The space previously was another tasting menu restaurant, Mosu, that opened as exclusively a $198 tasting menu and became a gentrification symbol much in the same way as Google buses. Diners (other than \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/restaurants/article/When-new-restaurants-push-the-price-too-far-too-8380503.php\">one prominent critic\u003c/a>) felt the food was indeed spectacular (this writer was in that camp) but the space was austere and simple to the point of almost seeming too harsh for appreciating such complex food. Mosu’s chef-owner, Sung Anh, has moved on to open a concept in Seoul and this opportunity presented itself for Wages. There is a definite connection of why this hand off took place so seamlessly compared to most SF restaurant changes. The two worked together at the French Laundry under Corey Lee and Wages considers Sung a mentor. Compton also was a sous chef for Sung during Mosu’s one-year run.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>San Francisco-based designer Noz Nozawa of \u003ca href=\"http://nozdesign.co/xz8dmu6fydhlbarrtb4bhxdv75t6bs\">Noz Design\u003c/a> reinvigorated the Mosu interior, with the help of Wages and Mako, keeping the same semi-hidden upstairs-downstairs set-up that makes the space somewhat quirky and like dining in a loft with bunk bed-style dining rooms. The entryway has no second story, giving off a grand welcome with the frosted floor to ceiling windows streaming in sunlight but blocking out the Fillmore street activity. A screen-like, semi-secret black wall blocks off the ground floor’s ten seats from the door, adding intrigue to the downstairs dining area where the longer tasting menu is served. The screen-like wall rises to the ceiling and also provides a pseudo-hidden feel for the upstairs dining area where 16 diners can enjoy the shorter tasting menu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126801\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1843-new.jpg\" alt=\"Downstairs dining area at Avery\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126801\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1843-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1843-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1843-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1843-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1843-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1843-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1843-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1843-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1843-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1843-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1843-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Downstairs dining area at Avery \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Avery’s two levels are attached by a stairway to the left side of the front door and the immaculate kitchen is attached to the downstairs dining room and appears in clear view with no walls or doors, in the rear of the space. A private dining room, called “Avery’s Room,” is right above the kitchen on the second floor. It’s there that you’ll find some of the wine collection in a gorgeous cellar, ducks and lamb bones dry aging and vegetables pickling in a refrigerator, and all sorts of minute design elements like…Corey Lee’s Benu cookbook and some books on Milton Avery paintings.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126793\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1675-new.jpg\" alt='Private dining area \"Avery’s Room\" with wine cellar upstairs at Avery' width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126793\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1675-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1675-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1675-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1675-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1675-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1675-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1675-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1675-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1675-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1675-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1675-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Private dining area \"Avery’s Room\" with wine cellar upstairs at Avery \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126772\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1683-new.jpg\" alt=\" Ducks and lamb bones dry aging and vegetables pickling in refrigerator\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126772\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1683-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1683-new-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1683-new-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1683-new-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1683-new-960x1440.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1683-new-240x360.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1683-new-375x563.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1683-new-520x780.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ducks and lamb bones dry aging and vegetables pickling in a refrigerator \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Much of the interior’s look is inspired by the earth and sea, bringing together bold swaths of charcoal black, teal and deep green that combine for a design motif that does actually seem to be one part ocean, one part forest and one part stark modernism. Chic black banquettes and bare black tables simply adorned with shell-like candle spheres and tiny plants in coral-like miniature pots serve as a contemporary juxtaposition to the retro, almost “Mad Men” era-evoking white chairs with delightfully oversized backs designed by the legendary Italian firm, Calligaris. Soft, gray mohair blankets on the banquettes invite cozying up, which some diners might be tempted by after course eight and the third glass of wine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Also, make sure to look up to appreciate the dramatic light fixtures and the skylight in the Avery room, along with looking down to see the elegant patterned carpeting that can look like tide pools along the coast from certain angles.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With all of this design talk, let’s not get ahead of ourselves — the striking interior elements in the two dining spaces are most certainly the custom Venetian plaster wall treatments with murals by \u003ca href=\"http://<a%20href=\" https:>San Francisco-based artist Victor Reyes\u003c/a>. They’re so impressive that there is a museum-like label and description of the work in the alcove between the downstairs dining room and the kitchen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126795\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1739-new.jpg\" alt=\"Upstairs dining area at Avery with Venetian plaster wall treatments by San Francisco-based artist Victor Reyes\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126795\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1739-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1739-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1739-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1739-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1739-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1739-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1739-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1739-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1739-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1739-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1739-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Upstairs dining area at Avery with Venetian plaster wall treatments by San Francisco-based artist Victor Reyes \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Growing up in Milwaukee and Orange County, Reyes was inspired by \u003ca href=\"http://www.francis-bacon.com/paintings\">Francis Bacon\u003c/a>’s provocatively dark, yet beautiful works and eventually that led Reyes to become an artist — a graffiti artist, that is. Reyes’ outdoor art and murals really got noticed after his move to San Francisco and a project of painting each letter of the alphabet in the Mission. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Since then, he has received lots of attention and praise for his fascinating artistic sense of exploration and pursuit of mystery through breaking down recognizable objects. Like most modern art, everyone will have their own opinion of what the dining room mural is presenting but there’s no doubt that the sweeping brushes of sea blue against the pale plaster call to mind ocean waves (there’s the earth and sea element, again) and a gritty edge to the elegance provided by luxurious glassware and the finest ingredients on the table. Dare we say, it’s almost a little like a work Avery might do?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Overall, the restaurant’s look is a thrilling, eloquent clash of the unfinished and the refined, the industrial and the polished — something we’ve seen for two decades at bistros, bars and gastropubs and we’re seeing more and more of at higher-end restaurants (see: Benu). Avery has hip hop on the soundtrack, exposed pipes running along the ceiling and plenty of jamon Iberico, foie gras and smoked trout roe for the crowd — yes, the days of Masa’s and Ernie’s are over.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are also plans for an investor to bring in an actual Avery painting to be a part of the interior design, so stay tuned.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We’re certainly starting to see culinary art literally work together with visual art. It’s an exciting direction for dining to go towards. Remember, it was Corey Lee who brought an innovative restaurant concept, In Situ, to SF MoMA. Now the roles are reversed — the restaurant welcomes the art museum — or, at least is welcoming the artist.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After all, isn’t the best kind of art the edible kind? Don’t we all wish we could take a bite out of the still lifes by Cézanne? Well, this art at Avery is very edible and each tasting menu is as striking as the restaurant namesake’s portfolio of work.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126803\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1836-new.jpg\" alt=\"The entryway to Avery\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126803\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1836-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1836-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1836-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1836-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1836-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1836-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1836-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1836-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1836-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1836-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1836-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The entryway to Avery \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003ca href=\"http://www.averysf.com\">\u003cstrong>Avery\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n1552 Fillmore St. \u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/RTB+Fillmore/@37.7840602,-122.434765,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x80858062edd49d5f:0xd5dacdc7799506e!8m2!3d37.784056!4d-122.432571\">MAP\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94116\u003cbr>\nPh: (415) 817-1187\u003cbr>\nHours: Dinner Wed–Sun from 5:30pm-9:30pm; closed Monday and Tuesday\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/averyinsf/\">Avery\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nInstagram: \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/avery_sf/\">@avery_sf\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nPrice Range: $$$$ (tasting menus begin at $89 per person)\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "San Francisco Bakeries Doing the Rye Thing",
"title": "San Francisco Bakeries Doing the Rye Thing",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>As a born and bred Jewish New Yorker, I recently satisfied my craving for rye bread by exploring \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/125527/east-bay-bakeries-doing-the-rye-thing\">six East Bay bakeries\u003c/a>. But with Passover over, I decided to cross the bridge to see what kind of rye San Francisco had to offer. During this bread adventure, I found four more guide-worthy bakeries making quality loaves.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Having lived half my life in the Bay Area, I've developed a California conscience about knowing where my food comes from. And, in my quest for satisfying my appetite, it has become equally important to know the best business practices of companies supplying products I crave, and ultimately purchase.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, in searching for rye bread, besides taste, texture, and loaf longevity; I also wanted to know about the bakeries choices regarding: source and quality of ingredients, environmentally-conscious production processes, benefits for employees and hiring practices, community involvement, and altruistic endeavors. My intention was to not only satisfy my yen but to also support local bakeries doing the right thing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was open to exploring and tasting a variety of types beyond the classic Jewish deli rye and found a range of styles originating from mostly European countries. I woke up to the fact that rye bread is not synonymous with the taste of caraway and there are cultural and environmental influences that determine flavor, density and digestibility.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tartine co-owner and baker Chad Robertson shared that for the past five to seven years he has been inspired by a modern grain resurgence that has dominated the bread landscape- a movement to bring back heirloom and ancient grains. He went to Denmark where heirloom Nordic grains were being revived, specifically varieties of rye popular with Danish culture and the open-faced sandwiches known as \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sm%C3%B8rrebr%C3%B8d\">smørrebrød\u003c/a> (essentially, a Danish \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Open_sandwich\">tartine\u003c/a>). He loved the idea of this culinary trend but realized the bread was hard on his digestion. He discovered that sprouting the rye alleviated these problems and this realization along with the recipe from his Danish chef friend, René’s Bolvig, became the inspiration for the Seeded Sprouted Rye available at Tartine (the recipe is called René’s Rye and is available in his book, Tartine Book No.3.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126447\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-126447\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1040-new1.jpg\" alt=\"The interiors exposed of rye breads from San Francisco bakeries.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1040-new1.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1040-new1-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1040-new1-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1040-new1-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1040-new1-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1040-new1-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1040-new1-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1040-new1-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1040-new1-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1040-new1-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The interiors exposed of rye breads from San Francisco bakeries. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Tasting the Rye\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nThe rye tasting was based on sampling the fresh bread plain and then tasting it as toast with unsalted butter. I was curious about flavor, consistency, the relationship between crust and \u003ca href=\"http://www.thefreshloaf.com/faqs/glossary\">crumb\u003c/a>, the effect of toasting the bread, and loaf longevity. After three days of storage, using \u003ca href=\"http://www.joseybakerbread.com/home\">Josey Baker’s\u003c/a> advice on \u003ca href=\"http://www.joseybakerbread.com/love-your-loaf/\">How To Love Your Loaf\u003c/a>, the breads were assessed for level of freshness and eat-ability – both plain and toasted.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Check out the Ryes sampled in San Francisco:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126458\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-126458\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1088-new.jpg\" alt=\"Noe Valley Bakery rye bread.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1088-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1088-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1088-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1088-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1088-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1088-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1088-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1088-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1088-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1088-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Noe Valley Bakery rye bread. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://noevalleybakery.com/\">Noe Valley Bakery\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://noevalleybakery.com/pages/what-we-make\">\u003cstrong>Rye Bread\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What's In It\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Rye Bread\u003c/em>: Organic whole dark rye flour, organic wheat flour, organic whole wheat flour, water, sea salt, caraway seeds. Price: $5.25\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Why Buy This Rye\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nNoe Valley Bakery's \u003cem>Rye Bread\u003c/em> is a fairly dense sour-based rye with a thick crust, chewy crumb, and strong but not too intense caraway flavor. According to co-owner/baker Michael Gassen, the rye is styled to resemble a good German rye, satisfy his wife's and mother-in-law's cravings for rye toast with cream cheese, and please Jewish East Coast transplants who, like me, miss the real deal. The crust was a bit tough when plain but became nice and crunchy when toasted. After day three, the rye was best consumed as toast with butter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I found the bread scoring on this loaf to be quite attractive and Michael said it functioned to help keep the bread's cylindrical shape. To further maintain its shape, this rye goes through a long \u003ca href=\"https://www.thespruce.com/retarding-427620\">retardation\u003c/a> (a cold process versus the warm process of fermentation), is free form, and \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Proofing_(baking_technique)\">proofed\u003c/a> in a \u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/search?q=what+is+a+couche+for+bread&rlz=1C5CHFA_enUS708US709&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiHzrTCyLLaAhWBGnwKHeIWChQQ_AUICygC&biw=1279&bih=727\">couche\u003c/a> as opposed to a \u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/search?q=what+is+a+banneton+for+bread&rlz=1C5CHFA_enUS708US709&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjhqJmOybLaAhUJr1QKHWLMB8EQ_AUICygC&biw=1279&bih=727\">banneton\u003c/a>. The sourdough starter used for this bread dates back to 1983, a blend of Italian \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Muscat_(grape)\">Muscat\u003c/a> grapes and organic rye flour from Giusto's.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126460\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-126460\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1122-new.jpg\" alt=\"Noe Valley Bakery rye bread interior.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1122-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1122-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1122-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1122-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1122-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1122-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1122-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1122-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1122-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1122-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Noe Valley Bakery rye bread interior. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What They Are Doing Right\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nAll of Noe Valley Bakery's cake and bread flours are organic and are purchased from \u003ca href=\"http://www.kgbakerysupply.com/\">Keith Giusto Bakery Supply\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://centralmilling.com/\">Central Milling\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Since the bakery opened, all leftovers have been donated to Mary Risley's \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodrunners.org/\">Food Runners\u003c/a> which collects and distributes food to those in need. Recently, Noe Valley Bakery has started to work with Cathrine Sneed's \u003ca href=\"https://www.gardenproject.org/\">The Garden Project\u003c/a> whose mission is to empower at risk youth by teaching them organic gardening and landscaping skills. The food they grow gets donated to local pantries and the bakery will be contributing the bread portion of that donation. Noe Valley Bakery also does demonstrations and participates in bake sales to support local public schools.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Environmental best practices include working with \u003ca href=\"https://www.recology.com/recology-san-francisco/\">Recology\u003c/a> to recycle and compost. The bakery is conscious of packaging waste and makes sure use compostable materials.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Before San Francisco mandated that \u003ca href=\"http://sfcityoption.org/hcso-compliance/employer-spending-requirement-esr/\">small business employers provide healthcare\u003c/a> for employees, Noe Valley bakery had already been offering full and part-time employees health benefits since 1994 when the bakery opened. Michael emphasized that the management cares about what is going on, pays attention, and works to fix problems related to conflict amongst employees in the bakery. He talked about how retention has become more difficult in the bakery business due to increased competition and they try to be fair with pay increases, \"When minimum wages go up – everyone’s wages go up.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126451\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-126451\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7077-new.jpg\" alt=\"Noe Valley Bakery bread display on 24th Street.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7077-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7077-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7077-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7077-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7077-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7077-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7077-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7077-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7077-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7077-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Noe Valley Bakery bread display on 24th Street. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126453\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-126453\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7080-new.jpg\" alt=\"Noe Valley Bakery 24th Street interior.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7080-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7080-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7080-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7080-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7080-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7080-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7080-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7080-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7080-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7080-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Noe Valley Bakery 24th Street interior. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Where To Get It\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nRetail locations: \u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/search/Noe+Valley+Bakery/@37.7459128,-122.467453,14z\">MAP\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>4073 24th Street, San Francisco\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>28 West Portal Avenue, San Francisco\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126480\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-126480\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0814-new.jpg\" alt=\"Wise Sons Deli Jewish Rye Bread.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0814-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0814-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0814-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0814-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0814-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0814-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0814-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0814-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0814-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0814-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Wise Sons Deli Jewish Rye Bread. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"http://wisesonsdeli.com/\">Wise Sons Jewish Delicatessen\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://wisesonsdeli.com/about/our-food/\">\u003cstrong>Jewish Rye Bread\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What's In It\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Jewish Rye Bread\u003c/em>: Flour, yeast, sea salt, water, caraway, rye flour, natural starter. Price: $8.00\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Why Buy This Rye\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nWise Sons \u003cem>Jewish Rye\u003c/em> lives up to what it was intended for...a classic sandwich bread to accompany a hefty portion of pastrami or corned beef. The crumb is spongy but not mushy, the cornmeal crust adds some texture to contrast with the soft interior, and the caraway and sour flavors seem just right. The bread uses both yeast as well as natural sourdough starter to help with the leavening and the starter provides good sour flavor. This big loaf makes great toast on day one, as well as on day three.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Co-founder Evan Bloom grew up in Los Angeles eating seeded Jewish corn rye from \u003ca href=\"http://beasbakery.com/\">Bea's Bakery\u003c/a>, the inspiration for Wise Sons rye. According to Evan, Bea's is a main bread supplier to many of the famous LA delis.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Evan shared a tip that you can do at home:\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n\"One trick we do in the store is called 'double baking.' When you put a loaf of bread in a plastic bag it tends to get a little soft, so we put the bread into the oven for a few minutes at 400 degrees. That gets the whole loaf extra crunchy on the outside and then when you slice it, you have this nice contrast, and your sandwich is crusty outside and soft inside, which I think is one of the keys to a good pastrami sandwich.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126477\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-126477\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0921-use1.jpg\" alt=\"Wise Sons Deli Jewish Rye Bread interior.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0921-use1.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0921-use1-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0921-use1-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0921-use1-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0921-use1-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0921-use1-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0921-use1-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0921-use1-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0921-use1-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0921-use1-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Wise Sons Deli Jewish Rye Bread interior. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What They Are Doing Right\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nWise Sons uses \u003ca href=\"http://giustos.com/\">Giusto's\u003c/a> peak performer unbleached wheat flour which is a medium gluten bread flour, for their rye. It is not organic. They also use \u003ca href=\"https://centralmilling.com/\">Central Milling\u003c/a> flour for the bagels they produce.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The ingredients used for the products are kosher but the baking facility is not. Their green practices include recycling and composting waste.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wise Sons donates their leftover when they have them to \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodrunners.org/\">Food Runners\u003c/a> and does many local non-profit in-kind donations for auctions and events.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Full comprehensive health insurance is completely covered for all employees. They offer job skills training and teach computer skills to employees who express interest. The company promotes from within whenever possible and compensates at appropriate rates above market rate. Wise Sons also offers a 401k but not many employees have taken advantage of this benefit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126473\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-126473\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7058-new.jpg\" alt=\"Bread display inside Wise Sons Deli on 24th Street - the rye bread is on the top left.\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7058-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7058-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7058-new-800x1066.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7058-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7058-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7058-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7058-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7058-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bread display inside Wise Sons Deli on 24th Street - the rye bread is on the top left.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126474\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-126474\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7063-new.jpg\" alt=\"Outside WIse Sons Deli on 24th Street.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7063-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7063-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7063-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7063-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7063-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7063-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7063-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7063-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7063-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7063-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Outside WIse Sons Deli on 24th Street.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Where To Get It\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nLocations:\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003cem>24th Street Deli:\u003c/em> 3150 24th Street, San Francisco \u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/Wise+Sons+Jewish+Delicatessen/@37.752537,-122.4175279,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f7e40e70998bd:0xcebdc35b2cd197a6!8m2!3d37.7525328!4d-122.4153339\">MAP\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003cem>Fillmore Bagel & Bakery:\u003c/em> 1520 Fillmore Street, San Francisco \u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/Wise+Sons+Bagel+%26+Bakery/@37.7836479,-122.4346643,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808580b90ac02eb3:0xfb26b42f3af4831d!8m2!3d37.7836437!4d-122.4324703\">MAP\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003cem>Hayes Valley Bagel & Coffee:\u003c/em> 537 Octavia Street, San Francisco \u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/Wise+Sons+Bagel+%26+Coffee/@37.7772839,-122.4271466,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808580a263bb8675:0x1392aff566f1c214!8m2!3d37.7772839!4d-122.4249579\">MAP\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003cem>Inside the Contemporary Jewish Museum:\u003c/em> 736 Mission St, San Francisco \u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/736+Mission+St%2C+San+Francisco%2C+CA+94103\">MAP\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003cem>Larkspur Bagelry:\u003c/em> 2227 Larkspur Landing Circle, Larkspur \u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/Wise+Sons+Larkspur+Bagelry/@37.947393,-122.5113227,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x80859a4387ce842d:0x52c5b7d13eff6188!8m2!3d37.947393!4d-122.509134\">MAP\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003cem>Wise Sons Tokyo:\u003c/em> Marunouchi Building B1F 2-4-1 Marunouchi Chiyoda-ku Tokyo 100-6390 Japan \u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/WISE+SONS+TOKYO/@35.6809891,139.7614621,17z/data=!4m8!1m2!2m1!1z44Ov44Kk44K6IOOCteODs-OCuiDjg4jjgqbjgq3jg6fjgqYgTWFydW5vdWNoaSBCdWlsZGluZyBCMUYgMi00LTEgTWFydW5vdWNoaSBDaGl5b2RhLWt1IFRva3lvIDEwMC02MzkwIEphcGFuIOadseS6rOmDveWNg-S7o-eUsOWMuuS4uOOBruWGhSAyLTQtMSDkuLjjg5Pjg6sgQjFG!3m4!1s0x60188bf9f1df2f21:0x3764b3ec6b6d6639!8m2!3d35.6809285!4d139.7635127\">MAP\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://wisesonsdeli.com/location/farmersmarket/\">Farmers' Markets\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://wisesonsdeli.com/location/retail-locations/\">Retail Outlets\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126507\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-126507\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0824-new.jpg\" alt=\"Josey Baker Dark Mountain Rye bread.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0824-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0824-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0824-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0824-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0824-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0824-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0824-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0824-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0824-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0824-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Josey Baker Dark Mountain Rye bread. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://www.joseybakerbread.com/\">Josey Baker Bread\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.joseybakerbread.com/bread/\">\u003cstrong>Dark Mountain Rye and Red, White & Rye\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What's In It\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Dark Mountain Rye\u003c/em>: Organic whole rye flour, sesame seeds, sunflower seeds, flax seeds, cornmeal, sourdough culture, sea salt. Price: $7.49\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126524\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-126524\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7035-new.jpg\" alt=\"Josey Baker Dark Mountain Rye bread for sale at The Mill.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7035-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7035-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7035-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7035-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7035-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7035-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7035-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7035-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7035-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7035-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Josey Baker Dark Mountain Rye bread for sale at The Mill. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Red, White & Rye\u003c/em>: Organic whole wheat flour, organic whole rye flour, sourdough culture, sea salt. Price: $6.99\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126523\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-126523\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7034-new.jpg\" alt=\"Josey Baker Red, White & Rye bread for sale at The Mill.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7034-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7034-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7034-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7034-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7034-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7034-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7034-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7034-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7034-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7034-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Josey Baker Red, White & Rye bread for sale at The Mill. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Josey Baker Bread also sells other breads that contain rye: \u003cem>Whole-Grain Wonder Bread\u003c/em>, \u003cem>Molasses Bread\u003c/em>, \u003cem>Sesame Seed Bread\u003c/em>, \u003cem>JBB Griddle Cake Mix\u003c/em>, and \u003cem>100% Stone Ground Whole Rye Flour\u003c/em> (and technically Josey said all the breads have an element of rye in them since a rye sourdough starter is used for all breads)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Why Buy This Rye\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Dark Mountain Rye\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\nJosey's Dark Mountain Rye is savory and seedy (in a good way). It's a hearty, brawny bread that would be good for survival outings in the woods since it packs some serious loaf longevity. By day three, the rye was still soft enough to eat plain but tasted best toasted with butter. This high fiber, dense bread, is pure rye with no wheat added. The organic rye flour is freshly milled at The Mill and is also available for purchase. Only rye sourdough starter is used to bake all the breads, commercial yeast is not included.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Josey said he was never attracted to Jewish deli-style rye which he called, \"white bread with a token of rye and an overpowering amount of caraway.\" He was inspired by Scandinavian-style ryes like \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/annasrye/\">Anna's Daughters' Rye\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://kantinesf.com/buy-our-rye-bread/\">Kantine Sprouted Rye\u003c/a>, as well as Tartine's Danish Seeded Sprouted Rye (featured in this guide).\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126514\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-126514\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0883-use1.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0883-use1.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0883-use1-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0883-use1-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0883-use1-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0883-use1-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0883-use1-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0883-use1-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0883-use1-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0883-use1-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0883-use1-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Josey Baker's Dark Mountain Rye bread. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126515\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-126515\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0895-new.jpg\" alt=\"Josey Baker Dark Mountain Rye bread interior.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0895-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0895-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0895-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0895-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0895-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0895-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0895-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0895-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0895-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0895-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Josey Baker's Dark Mountain Rye bread interior. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Red, White & Rye\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\nThis hearth (round) loaf is cakey, spongy and has a unique sweet flavor that tastes amazing! When asked about this specific flavor Josey replied, \"That’s actually just a naturally occurring flavor of the red wheat that we use, and it pops like that because of the fresh Milling!!\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As toast, the moist crumb remains but the crust is crispier and adds a nice textural contrast. By day three, the bread is not as spongy but is still great \u003ca href=\"http://www.businessinsider.com/we-tried-the-fancy-4-toast-san-francisco-is-going-crazy-for-2015-6\">$4 toast\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This bread uses the same dough as the Whole-Grain Wonder Bread but the Wonder Bread is baked in a pan. These breads are mostly wheat—a blend of red and white wheat and some rye as well.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126509\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-126509\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0841-new.jpg\" alt=\"Josey Baker Red, White & Rye bread.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0841-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0841-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0841-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0841-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0841-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0841-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0841-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0841-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0841-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0841-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Josey Baker Red, White & Rye bread. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126520\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-126520\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0963-new.jpg\" alt=\"Josey Baker Red, White & Rye bread interior.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0963-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0963-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0963-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0963-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0963-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0963-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0963-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0963-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0963-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0963-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Josey Baker Red, White & Rye bread interior. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What They Are Doing Right\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nJosey Baker Bread uses all organic flour and grains. The whole grain flours are milled at The Mill and the sifted flour is from \u003ca href=\"http://www.kgbakerysupply.com/\">Keith Giusto Bakery Supply\u003c/a>. \u003ca href=\"https://centralmilling.com/\">Central Milling\u003c/a> in Petaluma is the source of whole grain rye and wheat is grown in California by \u003ca href=\"https://www.communitygrains.com/our-farms/\">Fritz Durst\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://www.communitygrains.com/\">Community Grains\u003c/a> serves as the matchmaker between JBB and Fritz.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like Wise Sons and Noe Valley Bakery, Josey Baker Breads donates leftover products to \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodrunners.org/\">Food Runners\u003c/a>. JBB also donates a couple of pizza parties a month and participates in auctions and raffles.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Josey used to be an educator so he is inclined to be supportive to local schools. JBB plans to take on high school interns this summer to give them experience working in a bakery. They have classes several times a week at The Mill and a formal apprenticeship program.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The bakery is green-friendly. Bags are recyclable and for wholesale deliveries large trays are used instead of bags. Sourcing organic ingredients contributes to having environmentally conscious practices. And since they deal mostly with flour and water, natural cleaning products are used.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When discussing employer practices Josey said, \"I am proud of our culture and business.\" JBB provides employees with flexible work schedules, pays 100% healthcare, includes dental and vision for a minimal fee, has a partnership with a yoga studio so employees pay $5 for yoga classes, feeds employees meals during shifts, and has competitive salaries that start above minimum wage. He differentiated his company practices from traditional kitchen culture which he defines as \"militaristic, hierarchical, misogynist bullshit.\" The majority of people on his management team are women and they prioritize to keep shifts at 7-8 hours.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126525\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-126525\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7037-new.jpg\" alt=\"The Mill open kitchen and baking area behind the payment counter.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7037-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7037-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7037-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7037-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7037-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7037-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7037-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7037-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7037-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7037-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Mill open kitchen and baking area behind the payment counter. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126575\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-126575\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7043-new1.jpg\" alt=\"The Mill open kitchen baking area.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"896\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7043-new1.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7043-new1-160x75.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7043-new1-800x373.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7043-new1-768x358.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7043-new1-1020x476.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7043-new1-1180x551.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7043-new1-960x448.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7043-new1-240x112.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7043-new1-375x175.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7043-new1-520x243.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Mill open kitchen baking area. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126522\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-126522\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7032-new.jpg\" alt=\"Josey Baker bread for sale at The Mill.\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7032-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7032-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7032-new-800x1066.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7032-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7032-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7032-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7032-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7032-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Josey Baker bread for sale at The Mill. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Where To Get It\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nLocations:\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.themillsf.com/\">The Mill\u003c/a>:\u003c/em> 736 Divisadero Street, San Francisco \u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/The+Mill/@37.7764702,-122.4400264,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808580b02db73457:0x185a61a92a363ce8!8m2!3d37.776466!4d-122.4378324\">MAP\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.joseybakerbread.com/where/\">Restaurants, Bars and Markets\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126560\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-126560\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0856-new.jpg\" alt=\"Tartine's Danish Style Rye.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0856-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0856-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0856-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0856-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0856-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0856-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0856-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0856-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0856-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0856-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tartine's Danish Style Sprouted Rye. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"http://www.tartinemanufactory.com/\">Tartine Manufactory\u003c/a> / \u003ca href=\"http://www.tartinebakery.com/\">Tartine Bakery & Cafe\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.tartinebakery.com/bread/\">\u003cstrong>Danish Style Seeded Sprouted Rye\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What's In It\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Danish Style Seeded Sprouted Rye\u003c/em>: High-extraction organic spelt flour, organic whole-grain dark rye flour, buttermilk, dark beer, dark malt syrup, water, leaven, fine sea salt, organic sprouted rye berries, sunflower seeds, whole brown flaxseeds, coarsely ground brown flaxseeds, unhulled brown sesame seeds, pumpkin seeds. Price: $13.00\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Why Buy This Rye\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nTartine's \u003cem>Danish Style Seeded Sprouted Rye\u003c/em> is dense, sweet and nutty. It is great plain as thinly sliced bread but even better as warm toast spread with melted sweet butter. This sprouted rye tastes healthy and did not bother my stomach. By day three, the plain version was a bit drier but as toast it was still delicious.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126558\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-126558\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0848-new.jpg\" alt=\"Tartine's Danish Style Rye.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0848-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0848-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0848-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0848-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0848-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0848-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0848-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0848-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0848-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0848-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tartine's Danish Style Rye. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126562\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-126562\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0989-new.jpg\" alt=\"Tartine's Danish Style Rye interior.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0989-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0989-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0989-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0989-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0989-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0989-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0989-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0989-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0989-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0989-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tartine's Danish Style Rye interior. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What They Are Doing Right\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nAccording to co-owner/baker Chad Robertson, all the ingredients at Tartine are organic. The bakery is in partnership with a mill and a farming collective. Two mills work closely together in Washington and Oregon - \u003ca href=\"https://www.camascountrymill.com/\">Camas\u003c/a> is in Oregon, they are farmer millers and grow a lot of grains for Tartine, mill it fresh and ship it every two weeks. \u003ca href=\"http://www.cairnspring.com/\">Cairnspring Mills\u003c/a> in Skagit Valley Washington is one of the richest grain-growing regions in the world with amazing soil. Tartine is building a similar network on the East Coast where they will be expanding next year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Breads are not certified kosher but they may seek out certification at some point.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tartine does not typically have a lot of leftovers but when they do they donate goods to shelters that distribute food. The bakery is supportive to schools, \u003ca href=\"https://edibleschoolyard.org/\">The Edible Schoolyard Project\u003c/a>, and other local community charity organizations. Tartine also provides bakery and pastry donations, gift certificates, and school tours to demonstrate the baking process in action.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Regarding environmental-friendly practices, Chad explains that the city of San Francisco provides business incentives to separate out recycled and compostable materials as well as increase the use of compostable products. All of Tartine's to-go containers are compostable.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In San Francisco, it is the law to provide healthcare to small business employees and Tartine has been offering the basic requirements: healthcare, paid sick leave, and maternity leave for quite some time. Chad claims they had been providing competitive salaries and were already paying above minimum wage when rates increased.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The program that Chad was most excited to talk about was the exchange program with South Korea and Japan. Tartine just opened up in Seoul and they are opening up in Tokyo later this year. They have an exchange program in place where Japanese and Korean bakers come to California to learn from the team in the United States and then bakers from the California team travel to Tokyo or Seoul to collaborate with the teams in Asia.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chad said, \"For me that is something I really love. I have been doing that for a decade and I really wanted to make that opportunity available to my staff. It helps you grow – it helps anyone grow. The more you can travel and see different parts of the world, and the ways that people work, and the things that people make, along with different styles of doing things, it makes life much richer.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chad also shared that the Asian teams are being creative, incorporating culturally specific Korean and Japanese ingredients into the Tartine breads they bake. And like the Scandinavian influence we are appreciating via the Seeded Sprouted Rye, Tartine plans to introduce the Bay Area to new breads influenced by the tastes and flavors of Korea and Japan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126563\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-126563\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7592-new.jpg\" alt=\"Tartine's Danish Style Rye on display along with other breads at the Manufactory.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7592-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7592-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7592-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7592-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7592-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7592-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7592-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7592-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7592-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7592-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tartine's Danish Style Rye on display along with other breads at the Manufactory. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126564\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-126564\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7594-new.jpg\" alt=\"Tartine's bread and pastries on display at the Manufactory.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7594-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7594-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7594-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7594-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7594-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7594-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7594-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7594-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7594-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7594-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tartine's bread and pastries on display at the Manufactory. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Where To Get It\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nLocations:\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.tartinemanufactory.com/\">\u003cem>Tartine Manufactory\u003c/em>\u003c/a>: 595 Alabama Street, San Francisco \u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/Tartine+Manufactory/@37.7618501,-122.4141415,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f7e308f2ed1bb:0x88d7d35712aa2ba3!8m2!3d37.7618459!4d-122.4119475\">MAP\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.tartinebakery.com/\">\u003cem>Tartine Bakery and Cafe\u003c/em>\u003c/a>: 600 Guerrero Street San Francisco \u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/Tartine+Bakery/@37.7614211,-122.4262871,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f7e1807365605:0x601f7a97f0ce6c6b!8m2!3d37.7614169!4d-122.4240931\">MAP\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Final Note: Rye Love\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nThrough this rye exploration, I became aware of the relationship bakers have to their sourdough starter. There is a love connection that spans the time of an intimate and meaningful relationship. The starter is a living organism involved in the birth of their products, co-creating something precious, sacred and unique.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When Evan Bloom was told he had 10 minutes to go inside the commissary bakery fire in the Mission and take only what he needed, the eight-year old starter was at the top of the list.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Michael Gassen has been using the three starters: white, rye and wheat he initiated in 1993 which form the foundation of the breads and business he shares with his wife, Mary.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Josey Baker proudly said: “If you want to get technical about it, rye is in all of our breads because our sourdough culture is a 100% whole grain rye, so the seed from which all of our breads are made is a whole grain rye seed. Rye is at the heart of our bakery.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What was heartwarming to me was the bakers I spoke with all seemed to love their work. Their passion for the craft was reflected in the products as well as their practices. Most were invested in supporting education – both in the community as well as in their businesses. And this sense of nurturance and altruism extended to what they do on a daily basis – feeding people, creating a sense of family amongst their workers, and dough-nating to others in need.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "After discovering six excellent bakeries making rye bread in the East Bay, I crossed the bridge to find four more in San Francisco. Not only was the bread excellent, but they were also businesses doing the right thing.",
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"description": "After discovering six excellent bakeries making rye bread in the East Bay, I crossed the bridge to find four more in San Francisco. Not only was the bread excellent, but they were also businesses doing the right thing.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>As a born and bred Jewish New Yorker, I recently satisfied my craving for rye bread by exploring \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/125527/east-bay-bakeries-doing-the-rye-thing\">six East Bay bakeries\u003c/a>. But with Passover over, I decided to cross the bridge to see what kind of rye San Francisco had to offer. During this bread adventure, I found four more guide-worthy bakeries making quality loaves.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Having lived half my life in the Bay Area, I've developed a California conscience about knowing where my food comes from. And, in my quest for satisfying my appetite, it has become equally important to know the best business practices of companies supplying products I crave, and ultimately purchase.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, in searching for rye bread, besides taste, texture, and loaf longevity; I also wanted to know about the bakeries choices regarding: source and quality of ingredients, environmentally-conscious production processes, benefits for employees and hiring practices, community involvement, and altruistic endeavors. My intention was to not only satisfy my yen but to also support local bakeries doing the right thing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was open to exploring and tasting a variety of types beyond the classic Jewish deli rye and found a range of styles originating from mostly European countries. I woke up to the fact that rye bread is not synonymous with the taste of caraway and there are cultural and environmental influences that determine flavor, density and digestibility.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tartine co-owner and baker Chad Robertson shared that for the past five to seven years he has been inspired by a modern grain resurgence that has dominated the bread landscape- a movement to bring back heirloom and ancient grains. He went to Denmark where heirloom Nordic grains were being revived, specifically varieties of rye popular with Danish culture and the open-faced sandwiches known as \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sm%C3%B8rrebr%C3%B8d\">smørrebrød\u003c/a> (essentially, a Danish \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Open_sandwich\">tartine\u003c/a>). He loved the idea of this culinary trend but realized the bread was hard on his digestion. He discovered that sprouting the rye alleviated these problems and this realization along with the recipe from his Danish chef friend, René’s Bolvig, became the inspiration for the Seeded Sprouted Rye available at Tartine (the recipe is called René’s Rye and is available in his book, Tartine Book No.3.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126447\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-126447\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1040-new1.jpg\" alt=\"The interiors exposed of rye breads from San Francisco bakeries.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1040-new1.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1040-new1-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1040-new1-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1040-new1-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1040-new1-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1040-new1-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1040-new1-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1040-new1-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1040-new1-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1040-new1-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The interiors exposed of rye breads from San Francisco bakeries. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Tasting the Rye\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nThe rye tasting was based on sampling the fresh bread plain and then tasting it as toast with unsalted butter. I was curious about flavor, consistency, the relationship between crust and \u003ca href=\"http://www.thefreshloaf.com/faqs/glossary\">crumb\u003c/a>, the effect of toasting the bread, and loaf longevity. After three days of storage, using \u003ca href=\"http://www.joseybakerbread.com/home\">Josey Baker’s\u003c/a> advice on \u003ca href=\"http://www.joseybakerbread.com/love-your-loaf/\">How To Love Your Loaf\u003c/a>, the breads were assessed for level of freshness and eat-ability – both plain and toasted.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Check out the Ryes sampled in San Francisco:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126458\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-126458\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1088-new.jpg\" alt=\"Noe Valley Bakery rye bread.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1088-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1088-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1088-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1088-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1088-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1088-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1088-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1088-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1088-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1088-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Noe Valley Bakery rye bread. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://noevalleybakery.com/\">Noe Valley Bakery\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://noevalleybakery.com/pages/what-we-make\">\u003cstrong>Rye Bread\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What's In It\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Rye Bread\u003c/em>: Organic whole dark rye flour, organic wheat flour, organic whole wheat flour, water, sea salt, caraway seeds. Price: $5.25\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Why Buy This Rye\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nNoe Valley Bakery's \u003cem>Rye Bread\u003c/em> is a fairly dense sour-based rye with a thick crust, chewy crumb, and strong but not too intense caraway flavor. According to co-owner/baker Michael Gassen, the rye is styled to resemble a good German rye, satisfy his wife's and mother-in-law's cravings for rye toast with cream cheese, and please Jewish East Coast transplants who, like me, miss the real deal. The crust was a bit tough when plain but became nice and crunchy when toasted. After day three, the rye was best consumed as toast with butter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I found the bread scoring on this loaf to be quite attractive and Michael said it functioned to help keep the bread's cylindrical shape. To further maintain its shape, this rye goes through a long \u003ca href=\"https://www.thespruce.com/retarding-427620\">retardation\u003c/a> (a cold process versus the warm process of fermentation), is free form, and \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Proofing_(baking_technique)\">proofed\u003c/a> in a \u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/search?q=what+is+a+couche+for+bread&rlz=1C5CHFA_enUS708US709&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiHzrTCyLLaAhWBGnwKHeIWChQQ_AUICygC&biw=1279&bih=727\">couche\u003c/a> as opposed to a \u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/search?q=what+is+a+banneton+for+bread&rlz=1C5CHFA_enUS708US709&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjhqJmOybLaAhUJr1QKHWLMB8EQ_AUICygC&biw=1279&bih=727\">banneton\u003c/a>. The sourdough starter used for this bread dates back to 1983, a blend of Italian \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Muscat_(grape)\">Muscat\u003c/a> grapes and organic rye flour from Giusto's.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126460\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-126460\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1122-new.jpg\" alt=\"Noe Valley Bakery rye bread interior.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1122-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1122-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1122-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1122-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1122-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1122-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1122-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1122-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1122-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1122-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Noe Valley Bakery rye bread interior. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What They Are Doing Right\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nAll of Noe Valley Bakery's cake and bread flours are organic and are purchased from \u003ca href=\"http://www.kgbakerysupply.com/\">Keith Giusto Bakery Supply\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://centralmilling.com/\">Central Milling\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Since the bakery opened, all leftovers have been donated to Mary Risley's \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodrunners.org/\">Food Runners\u003c/a> which collects and distributes food to those in need. Recently, Noe Valley Bakery has started to work with Cathrine Sneed's \u003ca href=\"https://www.gardenproject.org/\">The Garden Project\u003c/a> whose mission is to empower at risk youth by teaching them organic gardening and landscaping skills. The food they grow gets donated to local pantries and the bakery will be contributing the bread portion of that donation. Noe Valley Bakery also does demonstrations and participates in bake sales to support local public schools.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Environmental best practices include working with \u003ca href=\"https://www.recology.com/recology-san-francisco/\">Recology\u003c/a> to recycle and compost. The bakery is conscious of packaging waste and makes sure use compostable materials.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Before San Francisco mandated that \u003ca href=\"http://sfcityoption.org/hcso-compliance/employer-spending-requirement-esr/\">small business employers provide healthcare\u003c/a> for employees, Noe Valley bakery had already been offering full and part-time employees health benefits since 1994 when the bakery opened. Michael emphasized that the management cares about what is going on, pays attention, and works to fix problems related to conflict amongst employees in the bakery. He talked about how retention has become more difficult in the bakery business due to increased competition and they try to be fair with pay increases, \"When minimum wages go up – everyone’s wages go up.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126451\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-126451\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7077-new.jpg\" alt=\"Noe Valley Bakery bread display on 24th Street.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7077-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7077-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7077-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7077-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7077-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7077-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7077-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7077-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7077-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7077-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Noe Valley Bakery bread display on 24th Street. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126453\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-126453\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7080-new.jpg\" alt=\"Noe Valley Bakery 24th Street interior.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7080-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7080-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7080-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7080-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7080-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7080-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7080-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7080-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7080-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7080-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Noe Valley Bakery 24th Street interior. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Where To Get It\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nRetail locations: \u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/search/Noe+Valley+Bakery/@37.7459128,-122.467453,14z\">MAP\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>4073 24th Street, San Francisco\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>28 West Portal Avenue, San Francisco\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126480\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-126480\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0814-new.jpg\" alt=\"Wise Sons Deli Jewish Rye Bread.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0814-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0814-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0814-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0814-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0814-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0814-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0814-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0814-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0814-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0814-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Wise Sons Deli Jewish Rye Bread. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"http://wisesonsdeli.com/\">Wise Sons Jewish Delicatessen\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://wisesonsdeli.com/about/our-food/\">\u003cstrong>Jewish Rye Bread\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What's In It\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Jewish Rye Bread\u003c/em>: Flour, yeast, sea salt, water, caraway, rye flour, natural starter. Price: $8.00\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Why Buy This Rye\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nWise Sons \u003cem>Jewish Rye\u003c/em> lives up to what it was intended for...a classic sandwich bread to accompany a hefty portion of pastrami or corned beef. The crumb is spongy but not mushy, the cornmeal crust adds some texture to contrast with the soft interior, and the caraway and sour flavors seem just right. The bread uses both yeast as well as natural sourdough starter to help with the leavening and the starter provides good sour flavor. This big loaf makes great toast on day one, as well as on day three.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Co-founder Evan Bloom grew up in Los Angeles eating seeded Jewish corn rye from \u003ca href=\"http://beasbakery.com/\">Bea's Bakery\u003c/a>, the inspiration for Wise Sons rye. According to Evan, Bea's is a main bread supplier to many of the famous LA delis.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Evan shared a tip that you can do at home:\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n\"One trick we do in the store is called 'double baking.' When you put a loaf of bread in a plastic bag it tends to get a little soft, so we put the bread into the oven for a few minutes at 400 degrees. That gets the whole loaf extra crunchy on the outside and then when you slice it, you have this nice contrast, and your sandwich is crusty outside and soft inside, which I think is one of the keys to a good pastrami sandwich.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126477\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-126477\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0921-use1.jpg\" alt=\"Wise Sons Deli Jewish Rye Bread interior.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0921-use1.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0921-use1-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0921-use1-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0921-use1-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0921-use1-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0921-use1-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0921-use1-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0921-use1-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0921-use1-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0921-use1-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Wise Sons Deli Jewish Rye Bread interior. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What They Are Doing Right\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nWise Sons uses \u003ca href=\"http://giustos.com/\">Giusto's\u003c/a> peak performer unbleached wheat flour which is a medium gluten bread flour, for their rye. It is not organic. They also use \u003ca href=\"https://centralmilling.com/\">Central Milling\u003c/a> flour for the bagels they produce.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The ingredients used for the products are kosher but the baking facility is not. Their green practices include recycling and composting waste.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wise Sons donates their leftover when they have them to \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodrunners.org/\">Food Runners\u003c/a> and does many local non-profit in-kind donations for auctions and events.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Full comprehensive health insurance is completely covered for all employees. They offer job skills training and teach computer skills to employees who express interest. The company promotes from within whenever possible and compensates at appropriate rates above market rate. Wise Sons also offers a 401k but not many employees have taken advantage of this benefit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126473\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-126473\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7058-new.jpg\" alt=\"Bread display inside Wise Sons Deli on 24th Street - the rye bread is on the top left.\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7058-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7058-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7058-new-800x1066.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7058-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7058-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7058-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7058-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7058-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bread display inside Wise Sons Deli on 24th Street - the rye bread is on the top left.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126474\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-126474\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7063-new.jpg\" alt=\"Outside WIse Sons Deli on 24th Street.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7063-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7063-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7063-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7063-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7063-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7063-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7063-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7063-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7063-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7063-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Outside WIse Sons Deli on 24th Street.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Where To Get It\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nLocations:\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003cem>24th Street Deli:\u003c/em> 3150 24th Street, San Francisco \u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/Wise+Sons+Jewish+Delicatessen/@37.752537,-122.4175279,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f7e40e70998bd:0xcebdc35b2cd197a6!8m2!3d37.7525328!4d-122.4153339\">MAP\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003cem>Fillmore Bagel & Bakery:\u003c/em> 1520 Fillmore Street, San Francisco \u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/Wise+Sons+Bagel+%26+Bakery/@37.7836479,-122.4346643,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808580b90ac02eb3:0xfb26b42f3af4831d!8m2!3d37.7836437!4d-122.4324703\">MAP\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003cem>Hayes Valley Bagel & Coffee:\u003c/em> 537 Octavia Street, San Francisco \u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/Wise+Sons+Bagel+%26+Coffee/@37.7772839,-122.4271466,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808580a263bb8675:0x1392aff566f1c214!8m2!3d37.7772839!4d-122.4249579\">MAP\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003cem>Inside the Contemporary Jewish Museum:\u003c/em> 736 Mission St, San Francisco \u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/736+Mission+St%2C+San+Francisco%2C+CA+94103\">MAP\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003cem>Larkspur Bagelry:\u003c/em> 2227 Larkspur Landing Circle, Larkspur \u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/Wise+Sons+Larkspur+Bagelry/@37.947393,-122.5113227,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x80859a4387ce842d:0x52c5b7d13eff6188!8m2!3d37.947393!4d-122.509134\">MAP\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003cem>Wise Sons Tokyo:\u003c/em> Marunouchi Building B1F 2-4-1 Marunouchi Chiyoda-ku Tokyo 100-6390 Japan \u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/WISE+SONS+TOKYO/@35.6809891,139.7614621,17z/data=!4m8!1m2!2m1!1z44Ov44Kk44K6IOOCteODs-OCuiDjg4jjgqbjgq3jg6fjgqYgTWFydW5vdWNoaSBCdWlsZGluZyBCMUYgMi00LTEgTWFydW5vdWNoaSBDaGl5b2RhLWt1IFRva3lvIDEwMC02MzkwIEphcGFuIOadseS6rOmDveWNg-S7o-eUsOWMuuS4uOOBruWGhSAyLTQtMSDkuLjjg5Pjg6sgQjFG!3m4!1s0x60188bf9f1df2f21:0x3764b3ec6b6d6639!8m2!3d35.6809285!4d139.7635127\">MAP\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://wisesonsdeli.com/location/farmersmarket/\">Farmers' Markets\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://wisesonsdeli.com/location/retail-locations/\">Retail Outlets\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126507\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-126507\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0824-new.jpg\" alt=\"Josey Baker Dark Mountain Rye bread.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0824-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0824-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0824-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0824-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0824-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0824-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0824-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0824-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0824-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0824-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Josey Baker Dark Mountain Rye bread. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://www.joseybakerbread.com/\">Josey Baker Bread\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.joseybakerbread.com/bread/\">\u003cstrong>Dark Mountain Rye and Red, White & Rye\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What's In It\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Dark Mountain Rye\u003c/em>: Organic whole rye flour, sesame seeds, sunflower seeds, flax seeds, cornmeal, sourdough culture, sea salt. Price: $7.49\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126524\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-126524\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7035-new.jpg\" alt=\"Josey Baker Dark Mountain Rye bread for sale at The Mill.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7035-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7035-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7035-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7035-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7035-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7035-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7035-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7035-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7035-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7035-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Josey Baker Dark Mountain Rye bread for sale at The Mill. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Red, White & Rye\u003c/em>: Organic whole wheat flour, organic whole rye flour, sourdough culture, sea salt. Price: $6.99\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126523\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-126523\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7034-new.jpg\" alt=\"Josey Baker Red, White & Rye bread for sale at The Mill.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7034-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7034-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7034-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7034-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7034-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7034-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7034-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7034-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7034-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7034-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Josey Baker Red, White & Rye bread for sale at The Mill. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Josey Baker Bread also sells other breads that contain rye: \u003cem>Whole-Grain Wonder Bread\u003c/em>, \u003cem>Molasses Bread\u003c/em>, \u003cem>Sesame Seed Bread\u003c/em>, \u003cem>JBB Griddle Cake Mix\u003c/em>, and \u003cem>100% Stone Ground Whole Rye Flour\u003c/em> (and technically Josey said all the breads have an element of rye in them since a rye sourdough starter is used for all breads)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Why Buy This Rye\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Dark Mountain Rye\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\nJosey's Dark Mountain Rye is savory and seedy (in a good way). It's a hearty, brawny bread that would be good for survival outings in the woods since it packs some serious loaf longevity. By day three, the rye was still soft enough to eat plain but tasted best toasted with butter. This high fiber, dense bread, is pure rye with no wheat added. The organic rye flour is freshly milled at The Mill and is also available for purchase. Only rye sourdough starter is used to bake all the breads, commercial yeast is not included.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Josey said he was never attracted to Jewish deli-style rye which he called, \"white bread with a token of rye and an overpowering amount of caraway.\" He was inspired by Scandinavian-style ryes like \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/annasrye/\">Anna's Daughters' Rye\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://kantinesf.com/buy-our-rye-bread/\">Kantine Sprouted Rye\u003c/a>, as well as Tartine's Danish Seeded Sprouted Rye (featured in this guide).\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126514\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-126514\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0883-use1.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0883-use1.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0883-use1-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0883-use1-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0883-use1-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0883-use1-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0883-use1-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0883-use1-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0883-use1-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0883-use1-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0883-use1-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Josey Baker's Dark Mountain Rye bread. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126515\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-126515\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0895-new.jpg\" alt=\"Josey Baker Dark Mountain Rye bread interior.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0895-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0895-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0895-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0895-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0895-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0895-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0895-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0895-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0895-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0895-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Josey Baker's Dark Mountain Rye bread interior. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Red, White & Rye\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\nThis hearth (round) loaf is cakey, spongy and has a unique sweet flavor that tastes amazing! When asked about this specific flavor Josey replied, \"That’s actually just a naturally occurring flavor of the red wheat that we use, and it pops like that because of the fresh Milling!!\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As toast, the moist crumb remains but the crust is crispier and adds a nice textural contrast. By day three, the bread is not as spongy but is still great \u003ca href=\"http://www.businessinsider.com/we-tried-the-fancy-4-toast-san-francisco-is-going-crazy-for-2015-6\">$4 toast\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This bread uses the same dough as the Whole-Grain Wonder Bread but the Wonder Bread is baked in a pan. These breads are mostly wheat—a blend of red and white wheat and some rye as well.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126509\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-126509\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0841-new.jpg\" alt=\"Josey Baker Red, White & Rye bread.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0841-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0841-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0841-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0841-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0841-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0841-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0841-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0841-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0841-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0841-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Josey Baker Red, White & Rye bread. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126520\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-126520\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0963-new.jpg\" alt=\"Josey Baker Red, White & Rye bread interior.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0963-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0963-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0963-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0963-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0963-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0963-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0963-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0963-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0963-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0963-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Josey Baker Red, White & Rye bread interior. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What They Are Doing Right\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nJosey Baker Bread uses all organic flour and grains. The whole grain flours are milled at The Mill and the sifted flour is from \u003ca href=\"http://www.kgbakerysupply.com/\">Keith Giusto Bakery Supply\u003c/a>. \u003ca href=\"https://centralmilling.com/\">Central Milling\u003c/a> in Petaluma is the source of whole grain rye and wheat is grown in California by \u003ca href=\"https://www.communitygrains.com/our-farms/\">Fritz Durst\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://www.communitygrains.com/\">Community Grains\u003c/a> serves as the matchmaker between JBB and Fritz.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like Wise Sons and Noe Valley Bakery, Josey Baker Breads donates leftover products to \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodrunners.org/\">Food Runners\u003c/a>. JBB also donates a couple of pizza parties a month and participates in auctions and raffles.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Josey used to be an educator so he is inclined to be supportive to local schools. JBB plans to take on high school interns this summer to give them experience working in a bakery. They have classes several times a week at The Mill and a formal apprenticeship program.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The bakery is green-friendly. Bags are recyclable and for wholesale deliveries large trays are used instead of bags. Sourcing organic ingredients contributes to having environmentally conscious practices. And since they deal mostly with flour and water, natural cleaning products are used.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When discussing employer practices Josey said, \"I am proud of our culture and business.\" JBB provides employees with flexible work schedules, pays 100% healthcare, includes dental and vision for a minimal fee, has a partnership with a yoga studio so employees pay $5 for yoga classes, feeds employees meals during shifts, and has competitive salaries that start above minimum wage. He differentiated his company practices from traditional kitchen culture which he defines as \"militaristic, hierarchical, misogynist bullshit.\" The majority of people on his management team are women and they prioritize to keep shifts at 7-8 hours.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126525\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-126525\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7037-new.jpg\" alt=\"The Mill open kitchen and baking area behind the payment counter.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7037-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7037-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7037-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7037-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7037-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7037-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7037-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7037-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7037-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7037-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Mill open kitchen and baking area behind the payment counter. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126575\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-126575\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7043-new1.jpg\" alt=\"The Mill open kitchen baking area.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"896\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7043-new1.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7043-new1-160x75.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7043-new1-800x373.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7043-new1-768x358.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7043-new1-1020x476.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7043-new1-1180x551.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7043-new1-960x448.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7043-new1-240x112.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7043-new1-375x175.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7043-new1-520x243.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Mill open kitchen baking area. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126522\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-126522\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7032-new.jpg\" alt=\"Josey Baker bread for sale at The Mill.\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7032-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7032-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7032-new-800x1066.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7032-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7032-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7032-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7032-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7032-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Josey Baker bread for sale at The Mill. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Where To Get It\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nLocations:\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.themillsf.com/\">The Mill\u003c/a>:\u003c/em> 736 Divisadero Street, San Francisco \u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/The+Mill/@37.7764702,-122.4400264,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808580b02db73457:0x185a61a92a363ce8!8m2!3d37.776466!4d-122.4378324\">MAP\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.joseybakerbread.com/where/\">Restaurants, Bars and Markets\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126560\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-126560\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0856-new.jpg\" alt=\"Tartine's Danish Style Rye.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0856-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0856-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0856-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0856-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0856-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0856-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0856-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0856-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0856-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0856-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tartine's Danish Style Sprouted Rye. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"http://www.tartinemanufactory.com/\">Tartine Manufactory\u003c/a> / \u003ca href=\"http://www.tartinebakery.com/\">Tartine Bakery & Cafe\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.tartinebakery.com/bread/\">\u003cstrong>Danish Style Seeded Sprouted Rye\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What's In It\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Danish Style Seeded Sprouted Rye\u003c/em>: High-extraction organic spelt flour, organic whole-grain dark rye flour, buttermilk, dark beer, dark malt syrup, water, leaven, fine sea salt, organic sprouted rye berries, sunflower seeds, whole brown flaxseeds, coarsely ground brown flaxseeds, unhulled brown sesame seeds, pumpkin seeds. Price: $13.00\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Why Buy This Rye\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nTartine's \u003cem>Danish Style Seeded Sprouted Rye\u003c/em> is dense, sweet and nutty. It is great plain as thinly sliced bread but even better as warm toast spread with melted sweet butter. This sprouted rye tastes healthy and did not bother my stomach. By day three, the plain version was a bit drier but as toast it was still delicious.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126558\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-126558\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0848-new.jpg\" alt=\"Tartine's Danish Style Rye.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0848-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0848-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0848-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0848-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0848-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0848-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0848-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0848-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0848-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0848-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tartine's Danish Style Rye. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126562\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-126562\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0989-new.jpg\" alt=\"Tartine's Danish Style Rye interior.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0989-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0989-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0989-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0989-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0989-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0989-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0989-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0989-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0989-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_0989-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tartine's Danish Style Rye interior. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What They Are Doing Right\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nAccording to co-owner/baker Chad Robertson, all the ingredients at Tartine are organic. The bakery is in partnership with a mill and a farming collective. Two mills work closely together in Washington and Oregon - \u003ca href=\"https://www.camascountrymill.com/\">Camas\u003c/a> is in Oregon, they are farmer millers and grow a lot of grains for Tartine, mill it fresh and ship it every two weeks. \u003ca href=\"http://www.cairnspring.com/\">Cairnspring Mills\u003c/a> in Skagit Valley Washington is one of the richest grain-growing regions in the world with amazing soil. Tartine is building a similar network on the East Coast where they will be expanding next year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Breads are not certified kosher but they may seek out certification at some point.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tartine does not typically have a lot of leftovers but when they do they donate goods to shelters that distribute food. The bakery is supportive to schools, \u003ca href=\"https://edibleschoolyard.org/\">The Edible Schoolyard Project\u003c/a>, and other local community charity organizations. Tartine also provides bakery and pastry donations, gift certificates, and school tours to demonstrate the baking process in action.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Regarding environmental-friendly practices, Chad explains that the city of San Francisco provides business incentives to separate out recycled and compostable materials as well as increase the use of compostable products. All of Tartine's to-go containers are compostable.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In San Francisco, it is the law to provide healthcare to small business employees and Tartine has been offering the basic requirements: healthcare, paid sick leave, and maternity leave for quite some time. Chad claims they had been providing competitive salaries and were already paying above minimum wage when rates increased.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The program that Chad was most excited to talk about was the exchange program with South Korea and Japan. Tartine just opened up in Seoul and they are opening up in Tokyo later this year. They have an exchange program in place where Japanese and Korean bakers come to California to learn from the team in the United States and then bakers from the California team travel to Tokyo or Seoul to collaborate with the teams in Asia.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chad said, \"For me that is something I really love. I have been doing that for a decade and I really wanted to make that opportunity available to my staff. It helps you grow – it helps anyone grow. The more you can travel and see different parts of the world, and the ways that people work, and the things that people make, along with different styles of doing things, it makes life much richer.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chad also shared that the Asian teams are being creative, incorporating culturally specific Korean and Japanese ingredients into the Tartine breads they bake. And like the Scandinavian influence we are appreciating via the Seeded Sprouted Rye, Tartine plans to introduce the Bay Area to new breads influenced by the tastes and flavors of Korea and Japan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126563\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-126563\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7592-new.jpg\" alt=\"Tartine's Danish Style Rye on display along with other breads at the Manufactory.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7592-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7592-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7592-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7592-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7592-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7592-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7592-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7592-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7592-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7592-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tartine's Danish Style Rye on display along with other breads at the Manufactory. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126564\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-126564\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7594-new.jpg\" alt=\"Tartine's bread and pastries on display at the Manufactory.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7594-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7594-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7594-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7594-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7594-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7594-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7594-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7594-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7594-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7594-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tartine's bread and pastries on display at the Manufactory. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Where To Get It\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nLocations:\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.tartinemanufactory.com/\">\u003cem>Tartine Manufactory\u003c/em>\u003c/a>: 595 Alabama Street, San Francisco \u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/Tartine+Manufactory/@37.7618501,-122.4141415,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f7e308f2ed1bb:0x88d7d35712aa2ba3!8m2!3d37.7618459!4d-122.4119475\">MAP\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.tartinebakery.com/\">\u003cem>Tartine Bakery and Cafe\u003c/em>\u003c/a>: 600 Guerrero Street San Francisco \u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/Tartine+Bakery/@37.7614211,-122.4262871,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f7e1807365605:0x601f7a97f0ce6c6b!8m2!3d37.7614169!4d-122.4240931\">MAP\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Final Note: Rye Love\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nThrough this rye exploration, I became aware of the relationship bakers have to their sourdough starter. There is a love connection that spans the time of an intimate and meaningful relationship. The starter is a living organism involved in the birth of their products, co-creating something precious, sacred and unique.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When Evan Bloom was told he had 10 minutes to go inside the commissary bakery fire in the Mission and take only what he needed, the eight-year old starter was at the top of the list.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Michael Gassen has been using the three starters: white, rye and wheat he initiated in 1993 which form the foundation of the breads and business he shares with his wife, Mary.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Josey Baker proudly said: “If you want to get technical about it, rye is in all of our breads because our sourdough culture is a 100% whole grain rye, so the seed from which all of our breads are made is a whole grain rye seed. Rye is at the heart of our bakery.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What was heartwarming to me was the bakers I spoke with all seemed to love their work. Their passion for the craft was reflected in the products as well as their practices. Most were invested in supporting education – both in the community as well as in their businesses. And this sense of nurturance and altruism extended to what they do on a daily basis – feeding people, creating a sense of family amongst their workers, and dough-nating to others in need.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"order": 3
},
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},
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"info": "The day's top stories from BBC News compiled twice daily in the week, once at weekends.",
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},
"link": "/radio/program/bbc-world-service",
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"rss": "https://podcasts.files.bbci.co.uk/p02nq0gn.rss"
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},
"californiareport": {
"id": "californiareport",
"title": "The California Report",
"tagline": "California, day by day",
"info": "KQED’s statewide radio news program providing daily coverage of issues, trends and public policy decisions.",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/The-California-Report-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "/californiareport",
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"source": "kqed",
"order": 8
},
"link": "/californiareport",
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},
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"title": "The California Report Magazine",
"tagline": "Your state, your stories",
"info": "Every week, The California Report Magazine takes you on a road trip for the ears: to visit the places and meet the people who make California unique. The in-depth storytelling podcast from the California Report.",
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"order": 10
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM3NjkwNjk1OTAz",
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"city-arts": {
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"info": "A one-hour radio program to hear celebrated writers, artists and thinkers address contemporary ideas and values, often discussing the creative process. Please note: tapes or transcripts are not available",
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"airtime": "SUN 1pm-2pm, TUE 10pm, WED 1am",
"meta": {
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"source": "City Arts & Lectures"
},
"link": "https://www.cityarts.net",
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"rss": "https://www.cityarts.net/feed/"
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},
"closealltabs": {
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"order": 1
},
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"title": "Code Switch / Life Kit",
"info": "\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em>, which listeners will hear in the first part of the hour, has fearless and much-needed conversations about race. Hosted by journalists of color, the show tackles the subject of race head-on, exploring how it impacts every part of society — from politics and pop culture to history, sports and more.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em>, which will be in the second part of the hour, guides you through spaces and feelings no one prepares you for — from finances to mental health, from workplace microaggressions to imposter syndrome, from relationships to parenting. The show features experts with real world experience and shares their knowledge. Because everyone needs a little help being human.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/510312/codeswitch\">\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/lifekit\">\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />",
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"meta": {
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"id": "commonwealth-club",
"title": "Commonwealth Club of California Podcast",
"info": "The Commonwealth Club of California is the nation's oldest and largest public affairs forum. As a non-partisan forum, The Club brings to the public airwaves diverse viewpoints on important topics. The Club's weekly radio broadcast - the oldest in the U.S., dating back to 1924 - is carried across the nation on public radio stations and is now podcasting. Our website archive features audio of our recent programs, as well as selected speeches from our long and distinguished history. This podcast feed is usually updated twice a week and is always un-edited.",
"airtime": "THU 10pm, FRI 1am",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Commonwealth-Club-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
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"meta": {
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"source": "Commonwealth Club of California"
},
"link": "/radio/program/commonwealth-club",
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cDovL3d3dy5jb21tb253ZWFsdGhjbHViLm9yZy9hdWRpby9wb2RjYXN0L3dlZWtseS54bWw",
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"id": "forum",
"title": "Forum",
"tagline": "The conversation starts here",
"info": "KQED’s live call-in program discussing local, state, national and international issues, as well as in-depth interviews.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 9am-11am, 10pm-11pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Forum-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
"imageAlt": "KQED Forum with Mina Kim and Alexis Madrigal",
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"source": "kqed",
"order": 9
},
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM5NTU3MzgxNjMz",
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"freakonomics-radio": {
"id": "freakonomics-radio",
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"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/05/freakonomicsRadio.png",
"officialWebsiteLink": "http://freakonomics.com/",
"airtime": "SUN 1am-2am, SAT 3pm-4pm",
"meta": {
"site": "radio",
"source": "WNYC"
},
"link": "/radio/program/freakonomics-radio",
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/freakonomics-radio/id354668519",
"tuneIn": "https://tunein.com/podcasts/WNYC-Podcasts/Freakonomics-Radio-p272293/",
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},
"fresh-air": {
"id": "fresh-air",
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"info": "A live production of NPR and WBUR Boston, in collaboration with stations across the country, Here & Now reflects the fluid world of news as it's happening in the middle of the day, with timely, in-depth news, interviews and conversation. Hosted by Robin Young, Jeremy Hobson and Tonya Mosley.",
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"hidden-brain": {
"id": "hidden-brain",
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"info": "Shankar Vedantam uses science and storytelling to reveal the unconscious patterns that drive human behavior, shape our choices and direct our relationships.",
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"airtime": "SUN 7pm-8pm",
"meta": {
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"source": "NPR"
},
"link": "/radio/program/hidden-brain",
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"how-i-built-this": {
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"title": "How I Built This with Guy Raz",
"info": "Guy Raz dives into the stories behind some of the world's best known companies. How I Built This weaves a narrative journey about innovators, entrepreneurs and idealists—and the movements they built.",
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"airtime": "SUN 7:30pm-8pm",
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"link": "/radio/program/how-i-built-this",
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"hyphenacion": {
"id": "hyphenacion",
"title": "Hyphenación",
"tagline": "Where conversation and cultura meet",
"info": "What kind of no sabo word is Hyphenación? For us, it’s about living within a hyphenation. Like being a third-gen Mexican-American from the Texas border now living that Bay Area Chicano life. Like Xorje! Each week we bring together a couple of hyphenated Latinos to talk all about personal life choices: family, careers, relationships, belonging … everything is on the table. ",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2025/03/Hyphenacion_FinalAssets_PodcastTile.png",
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"order": 15
},
"link": "/podcasts/hyphenacion",
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},
"jerrybrown": {
"id": "jerrybrown",
"title": "The Political Mind of Jerry Brown",
"tagline": "Lessons from a lifetime in politics",
"info": "The Political Mind of Jerry Brown brings listeners the wisdom of the former Governor, Mayor, and presidential candidate. Scott Shafer interviewed Brown for more than 40 hours, covering the former governor's life and half-century in the political game – and Brown has some lessons he'd like to share. ",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/The-Political-Mind-of-Jerry-Brown-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "/podcasts/jerrybrown",
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"order": 18
},
"link": "/podcasts/jerrybrown",
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},
"latino-usa": {
"id": "latino-usa",
"title": "Latino USA",
"airtime": "MON 1am-2am, SUN 6pm-7pm",
"info": "Latino USA, the radio journal of news and culture, is the only national, English-language radio program produced from a Latino perspective.",
"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/latinoUsa.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "http://latinousa.org/",
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"source": "npr"
},
"link": "/radio/program/latino-usa",
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=79681317&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory",
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"rss": "https://feeds.npr.org/510016/podcast.xml"
}
},
"marketplace": {
"id": "marketplace",
"title": "Marketplace",
"info": "Our flagship program, helmed by Kai Ryssdal, examines what the day in money delivered, through stories, conversations, newsworthy numbers and more. Updated Monday through Friday at about 3:30 p.m. PT.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 4pm-4:30pm, MON-WED 6:30pm-7pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Marketplace-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.marketplace.org/",
"meta": {
"site": "news",
"source": "American Public Media"
},
"link": "/radio/program/marketplace",
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"rss": "https://feeds.publicradio.org/public_feeds/marketplace-pm/rss/rss"
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},
"masters-of-scale": {
"id": "masters-of-scale",
"title": "Masters of Scale",
"info": "Masters of Scale is an original podcast in which LinkedIn co-founder and Greylock Partner Reid Hoffman sets out to describe and prove theories that explain how great entrepreneurs take their companies from zero to a gazillion in ingenious fashion.",
"airtime": "Every other Wednesday June 12 through October 16 at 8pm (repeats Thursdays at 2am)",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "https://mastersofscale.com/",
"meta": {
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"source": "WaitWhat"
},
"link": "/radio/program/masters-of-scale",
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"apple": "http://mastersofscale.app.link/",
"rss": "https://rss.art19.com/masters-of-scale"
}
},
"mindshift": {
"id": "mindshift",
"title": "MindShift",
"tagline": "A podcast about the future of learning and how we raise our kids",
"info": "The MindShift podcast explores the innovations in education that are shaping how kids learn. Hosts Ki Sung and Katrina Schwartz introduce listeners to educators, researchers, parents and students who are developing effective ways to improve how kids learn. We cover topics like how fed-up administrators are developing surprising tactics to deal with classroom disruptions; how listening to podcasts are helping kids develop reading skills; the consequences of overparenting; and why interdisciplinary learning can engage students on all ends of the traditional achievement spectrum. This podcast is part of the MindShift education site, a division of KQED News. KQED is an NPR/PBS member station based in San Francisco. You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Mindshift-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
"imageAlt": "KQED MindShift: How We Will Learn",
"officialWebsiteLink": "/mindshift/",
"meta": {
"site": "news",
"source": "kqed",
"order": 12
},
"link": "/podcasts/mindshift",
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM1NzY0NjAwNDI5",
"npr": "https://www.npr.org/podcasts/464615685/mind-shift-podcast",
"stitcher": "https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/kqed/stories-teachers-share",
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}
},
"morning-edition": {
"id": "morning-edition",
"title": "Morning Edition",
"info": "\u003cem>Morning Edition\u003c/em> takes listeners around the country and the world with multi-faceted stories and commentaries every weekday. Hosts Steve Inskeep, David Greene and Rachel Martin bring you the latest breaking news and features to prepare you for the day.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 3am-9am",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Morning-Edition-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.npr.org/programs/morning-edition/",
"meta": {
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"source": "npr"
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"link": "/radio/program/morning-edition"
},
"onourwatch": {
"id": "onourwatch",
"title": "On Our Watch",
"tagline": "Deeply-reported investigative journalism",
"info": "For decades, the process for how police police themselves has been inconsistent – if not opaque. In some states, like California, these proceedings were completely hidden. After a new police transparency law unsealed scores of internal affairs files, our reporters set out to examine these cases and the shadow world of police discipline. On Our Watch brings listeners into the rooms where officers are questioned and witnesses are interrogated to find out who this system is really protecting. Is it the officers, or the public they've sworn to serve?",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/On-Our-Watch-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
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