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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117202\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/Lunch-service-at-Glenas1920.jpg\" alt=\"Lunch service at Glena's.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117202\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/Lunch-service-at-Glenas1920.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/Lunch-service-at-Glenas1920-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/Lunch-service-at-Glenas1920-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/Lunch-service-at-Glenas1920-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/Lunch-service-at-Glenas1920-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/Lunch-service-at-Glenas1920-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/Lunch-service-at-Glenas1920-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/Lunch-service-at-Glenas1920-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/Lunch-service-at-Glenas1920-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/Lunch-service-at-Glenas1920-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Lunch service at Glena's. \u003ccite>(Kim Westerman)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>You remember the sullen, watery blended margarita of yore, the one you always regretted drinking all the way to the bottom. It lost its verve after about five minutes of super-cold, tart-sweet sips. The blended margarita at Glena’s is a different animal, altogether. Barmeister Lachlan Bray has perfected the retro version to coincide with Cinco de Mayo weekend and, depending on the day, the sunshiney afternoons that sometimes come to burn off SF’s fog.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Glena’s, which opened in February of this year, is the brick-and-mortar space that evolved out of Michael and Stephanie Gaines’ Mexican pop-up at Provender Coffee Shop in Potrero Hill. The Gaineses, formerly of Kin Khao and Plow, respectively, do a lovely job with simple Mexican tacos and larger platos like ceviche, tortas and pozole. Bray, also a Kin Khao alum (as well as a former bartender at Tosca) now offers a blended format for the classic margarita on the cocktail list. It differs from the 1980s-style drink in several key ways.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117201\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/IMG_blended-margarita1920.jpg\" alt=\"Bar manager Lachlan Bray’s new and improved blended margarita.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117201\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/IMG_blended-margarita1920.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/IMG_blended-margarita1920-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/IMG_blended-margarita1920-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/IMG_blended-margarita1920-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/IMG_blended-margarita1920-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/IMG_blended-margarita1920-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/IMG_blended-margarita1920-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/IMG_blended-margarita1920-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/IMG_blended-margarita1920-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/IMG_blended-margarita1920-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bar manager Lachlan Bray’s new and improved blended margarita. \u003ccite>(Kim Westerman)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>First, says restaurant manager Emmanuel Galvan, he starts with crushed ice, so that the blending process results in frothiness rather than sharp ice shards, and it stays frozen for much longer than drinks that start with bigger cubes. There’s no Cointreau or other sweet orange-toned liqueur whatsoever, just Tapatio Blanco Tequila, fresh lime, a splash of agave syrup and salt. It’s crisp, sweetly tart, and deeply refreshing, not to mention a great accompaniment to the homemade tacos.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>During a quick lunch, I ordered a carne asada taco on a La Palma flour tortilla (with white onion and cilantro) and a grilled fish (tilapia) taco on a homemade corn tortilla (with cabbage, radish, cilantro, chipotle crema and jalapeño), both of which were spot-on in terms of size (small) and ingredient combinations (balanced). On the table is homemade salsa, mild and smoky-sweet, made with puya and arbol chiles.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117199\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/carne-asada-taco1920.jpg\" alt=\"Carne asada taco on a La Palma flour tortilla.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117199\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/carne-asada-taco1920.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/carne-asada-taco1920-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/carne-asada-taco1920-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/carne-asada-taco1920-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/carne-asada-taco1920-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/carne-asada-taco1920-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/carne-asada-taco1920-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/carne-asada-taco1920-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/carne-asada-taco1920-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/carne-asada-taco1920-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Carne asada taco on a La Palma flour tortilla. \u003ccite>(Kim Westerman)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117200\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/fish-taco1920.jpg\" alt=\"Grilled tilapia taco on homemade corn tortilla.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117200\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/fish-taco1920.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/fish-taco1920-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/fish-taco1920-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/fish-taco1920-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/fish-taco1920-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/fish-taco1920-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/fish-taco1920-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/fish-taco1920-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/fish-taco1920-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/fish-taco1920-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Grilled tilapia taco on homemade corn tortilla. \u003ccite>(Kim Westerman)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>For dessert, I tried another classic cocktail, the Paloma, whose sweetness comes from pink grapefruit juice, made sparkling by seltzer, with tequila, lime, and the irresistible chili-salt rim, which unifies the whole.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117203\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/Paloma-1-1920.jpg\" alt=\"Classic Paloma cocktail with pink grapefruit juice and tequila.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117203\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/Paloma-1-1920.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/Paloma-1-1920-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/Paloma-1-1920-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/Paloma-1-1920-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/Paloma-1-1920-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/Paloma-1-1920-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/Paloma-1-1920-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/Paloma-1-1920-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/Paloma-1-1920-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/Paloma-1-1920-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Classic Paloma cocktail with pink grapefruit juice and tequila. \u003ccite>(Kim Westerman)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The space is small and casual, with a host at the front door who takes your order and gives you a number. Food and drinks come out fast, even when the restaurant is crowded, and staff are friendly, composed and knowledgeable about the menu. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The blended margarita will remain on the menu past the Cinco de Mayo celebrations, so if you can’t get there this weekend, no worries. Galvan says the retro classic is a permanent new feature on the cocktail list.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.glenassf.com/\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cstrong>Glena’s Tacos & Margaritas\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n632 20th St.\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94107 [\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/XCNA4G\" target=\"_blank\">Map\u003c/a>]\u003cbr>\nPh: (415) 915-TACO (8226)\u003cbr>\nHours: Sun-Thu, 11am-10pm; Sat, 11am-11pm\u003cbr>\nPrice Range: $-$$ ($5-$6, tacos; $12, cocktails; $12-$16, platos)\u003cbr>\nInstagram: \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/glenassf/\" target=\"_blank\">@glenassf\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117202\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/Lunch-service-at-Glenas1920.jpg\" alt=\"Lunch service at Glena's.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117202\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/Lunch-service-at-Glenas1920.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/Lunch-service-at-Glenas1920-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/Lunch-service-at-Glenas1920-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/Lunch-service-at-Glenas1920-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/Lunch-service-at-Glenas1920-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/Lunch-service-at-Glenas1920-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/Lunch-service-at-Glenas1920-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/Lunch-service-at-Glenas1920-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/Lunch-service-at-Glenas1920-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/Lunch-service-at-Glenas1920-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Lunch service at Glena's. \u003ccite>(Kim Westerman)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>You remember the sullen, watery blended margarita of yore, the one you always regretted drinking all the way to the bottom. It lost its verve after about five minutes of super-cold, tart-sweet sips. The blended margarita at Glena’s is a different animal, altogether. Barmeister Lachlan Bray has perfected the retro version to coincide with Cinco de Mayo weekend and, depending on the day, the sunshiney afternoons that sometimes come to burn off SF’s fog.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Glena’s, which opened in February of this year, is the brick-and-mortar space that evolved out of Michael and Stephanie Gaines’ Mexican pop-up at Provender Coffee Shop in Potrero Hill. The Gaineses, formerly of Kin Khao and Plow, respectively, do a lovely job with simple Mexican tacos and larger platos like ceviche, tortas and pozole. Bray, also a Kin Khao alum (as well as a former bartender at Tosca) now offers a blended format for the classic margarita on the cocktail list. It differs from the 1980s-style drink in several key ways.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117201\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/IMG_blended-margarita1920.jpg\" alt=\"Bar manager Lachlan Bray’s new and improved blended margarita.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117201\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/IMG_blended-margarita1920.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/IMG_blended-margarita1920-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/IMG_blended-margarita1920-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/IMG_blended-margarita1920-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/IMG_blended-margarita1920-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/IMG_blended-margarita1920-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/IMG_blended-margarita1920-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/IMG_blended-margarita1920-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/IMG_blended-margarita1920-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/IMG_blended-margarita1920-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bar manager Lachlan Bray’s new and improved blended margarita. \u003ccite>(Kim Westerman)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>First, says restaurant manager Emmanuel Galvan, he starts with crushed ice, so that the blending process results in frothiness rather than sharp ice shards, and it stays frozen for much longer than drinks that start with bigger cubes. There’s no Cointreau or other sweet orange-toned liqueur whatsoever, just Tapatio Blanco Tequila, fresh lime, a splash of agave syrup and salt. It’s crisp, sweetly tart, and deeply refreshing, not to mention a great accompaniment to the homemade tacos.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>During a quick lunch, I ordered a carne asada taco on a La Palma flour tortilla (with white onion and cilantro) and a grilled fish (tilapia) taco on a homemade corn tortilla (with cabbage, radish, cilantro, chipotle crema and jalapeño), both of which were spot-on in terms of size (small) and ingredient combinations (balanced). On the table is homemade salsa, mild and smoky-sweet, made with puya and arbol chiles.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117199\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/carne-asada-taco1920.jpg\" alt=\"Carne asada taco on a La Palma flour tortilla.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117199\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/carne-asada-taco1920.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/carne-asada-taco1920-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/carne-asada-taco1920-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/carne-asada-taco1920-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/carne-asada-taco1920-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/carne-asada-taco1920-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/carne-asada-taco1920-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/carne-asada-taco1920-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/carne-asada-taco1920-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/carne-asada-taco1920-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Carne asada taco on a La Palma flour tortilla. \u003ccite>(Kim Westerman)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117200\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/fish-taco1920.jpg\" alt=\"Grilled tilapia taco on homemade corn tortilla.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117200\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/fish-taco1920.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/fish-taco1920-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/fish-taco1920-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/fish-taco1920-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/fish-taco1920-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/fish-taco1920-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/fish-taco1920-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/fish-taco1920-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/fish-taco1920-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/fish-taco1920-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Grilled tilapia taco on homemade corn tortilla. \u003ccite>(Kim Westerman)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>For dessert, I tried another classic cocktail, the Paloma, whose sweetness comes from pink grapefruit juice, made sparkling by seltzer, with tequila, lime, and the irresistible chili-salt rim, which unifies the whole.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117203\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/Paloma-1-1920.jpg\" alt=\"Classic Paloma cocktail with pink grapefruit juice and tequila.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117203\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/Paloma-1-1920.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/Paloma-1-1920-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/Paloma-1-1920-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/Paloma-1-1920-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/Paloma-1-1920-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/Paloma-1-1920-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/Paloma-1-1920-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/Paloma-1-1920-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/Paloma-1-1920-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/Paloma-1-1920-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Classic Paloma cocktail with pink grapefruit juice and tequila. \u003ccite>(Kim Westerman)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The space is small and casual, with a host at the front door who takes your order and gives you a number. Food and drinks come out fast, even when the restaurant is crowded, and staff are friendly, composed and knowledgeable about the menu. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The blended margarita will remain on the menu past the Cinco de Mayo celebrations, so if you can’t get there this weekend, no worries. Galvan says the retro classic is a permanent new feature on the cocktail list.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.glenassf.com/\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cstrong>Glena’s Tacos & Margaritas\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n632 20th St.\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94107 [\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/XCNA4G\" target=\"_blank\">Map\u003c/a>]\u003cbr>\nPh: (415) 915-TACO (8226)\u003cbr>\nHours: Sun-Thu, 11am-10pm; Sat, 11am-11pm\u003cbr>\nPrice Range: $-$$ ($5-$6, tacos; $12, cocktails; $12-$16, platos)\u003cbr>\nInstagram: \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/glenassf/\" target=\"_blank\">@glenassf\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "American Masters Chefs Flight Presents 'James Beard: America's First Foodie'",
"title": "American Masters Chefs Flight Presents 'James Beard: America's First Foodie'",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>Though most of us are unfamiliar with the man behind the brand, we understand the name James Beard as synonymous with excellence in all things culinary. An \u003ca href=\"https://www.jamesbeard.org/awards\" target=\"_blank\">annual event named after him\u003c/a> has been honoring America's best chefs, restaurants and food-related media since 1990. The new film \u003cem>James Beard: America's First Foodie\u003c/em> chronicles the life of the man Julia Child referred to as \"the quintessential American cook,\" kicking off a \"Chefs Flight\" of four documentaries profiling Beard, Child, Alice Waters and Jacques Pépin for \u003cem>American Masters\u003c/em>' 31st season Friday, May 19 at 9:00pm on \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/tv/programs/index.jsp?pgmid=24298\" target=\"_blank\">KQED 9\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://youtu.be/okjaNGs6ViE\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>James Beard was born in Portland, Oregon at the dawn of the 20th century to a mother, Elizabeth, who owned a small hotel and was something of a local sensation, both for her cooking and for her liberated lifestyle. The early education she provided in buying and preparing fresh, local foods in season would become the guiding principle for the food movement her son later catalyzed. By his own account, the young Beard was as unrestrained by convention as his libertine mother, understanding at an early age that he was homosexual. He was expelled from Reed College, where he studied acting, for engaging in (then-illegal) same-sex activity. At 19, Beard headed to Europe to study opera, but ended up exercising his large appetite in the bistros of Paris, whose practices he taught to others when he returned to Oregon. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Beard moved to New York in 1937, surviving lean times by cooking for friends in exchange for his supper. From these gatherings came his first success. He and William Rhode (later the editor of \u003ca href=\"http://www.gourmet.com/\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>Gourmet\u003c/em> magazine\u003c/a>) started a catering business called Hors D'Oeuvre, Inc, which provided the recipes for his first cookbook, \u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Doeuvre-Canapes-Library-American-Cooking/dp/076240664X\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>Hors d'oeuvre and Canapes\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, published in 1940. He followed that success with \u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Cook-outdoors-James-Beard/dp/B0007E2IPO/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1493846521&sr=1-1&keywords=cook+it+outdoors+james+beard\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>Cook It Outdoors\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, \"believed to be the first serious book on outdoor cooking,\" according to his \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/1985/01/24/nyregion/james-beard-authority-on-food-dies.html\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>New York Times\u003c/em> obituary\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117055\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/BeardJames-on-the-radio-at-reed-1020x1299.jpeg\" alt=\"\" width=\"640\" height=\"815\" class=\"size-large wp-image-117055\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/BeardJames-on-the-radio-at-reed-1020x1299.jpeg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/BeardJames-on-the-radio-at-reed-160x204.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/BeardJames-on-the-radio-at-reed-800x1019.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/BeardJames-on-the-radio-at-reed-768x978.jpeg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/BeardJames-on-the-radio-at-reed-1180x1503.jpeg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/BeardJames-on-the-radio-at-reed-960x1223.jpeg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/BeardJames-on-the-radio-at-reed-240x306.jpeg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/BeardJames-on-the-radio-at-reed-375x478.jpeg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/BeardJames-on-the-radio-at-reed-520x662.jpeg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef James Beard at Reed College \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Reed College)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In 1946, Beard hosted \u003cem>I Love to Eat\u003c/em> for two seasons on NBC, introducing cooking to TV. He founded The James Beard Cooking School in 1955, teaching people around the country how to cook for the next thirty years. The school eventually settled in Seaside, Oregon, where he taught each summer using the same fresh ingredients his mother prepared in his youth, and in the kitchen of his Greenwich Village brownstone in Manhattan, which also became a popular hangout for the rich and famous. Beard's good friend Julia Child lobbied for the preservation of his Manhattan home shortly after he died in 1985 and, through the efforts of Peter Krump, a former student, and a cadre of well-connected friends, the James Beard Foundation was born.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.pbs.org/wnet/americanmasters/james-beard-americas-first-foodie-film/8432/\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>America's First Foodie\u003c/em>\u003c/a> traces Beard's influence through the many chefs that surrounded him and came after, including Julia Child, Alice Waters, Jeremiah Tower and \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2017/04/12/jacques-ppin-the-art-of-craft-reveals-how-a-french-chef-became-an-american-master/\" target=\"_blank\">Jacques Pépin\u003c/a>, but what remains a mystery is the spirit that animated so many to come together to preserve his legacy. Several close friends affirm Beard's charms, but the man himself is unfortunately not on hand to glamour the viewer. How does one capture the \"life of the party\" when the party has been over for decades?\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117056\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/James-Beard-Julia-Child-Edna-Lewis-photo-Dan-Wynn--1020x1169.jpeg\" alt=\"\" width=\"640\" height=\"733\" class=\"size-large wp-image-117056\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/James-Beard-Julia-Child-Edna-Lewis-photo-Dan-Wynn--1020x1169.jpeg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/James-Beard-Julia-Child-Edna-Lewis-photo-Dan-Wynn--160x183.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/James-Beard-Julia-Child-Edna-Lewis-photo-Dan-Wynn--800x917.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/James-Beard-Julia-Child-Edna-Lewis-photo-Dan-Wynn--768x880.jpeg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/James-Beard-Julia-Child-Edna-Lewis-photo-Dan-Wynn--1180x1353.jpeg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/James-Beard-Julia-Child-Edna-Lewis-photo-Dan-Wynn--960x1101.jpeg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/James-Beard-Julia-Child-Edna-Lewis-photo-Dan-Wynn--240x275.jpeg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/James-Beard-Julia-Child-Edna-Lewis-photo-Dan-Wynn--375x430.jpeg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/James-Beard-Julia-Child-Edna-Lewis-photo-Dan-Wynn--520x596.jpeg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chefs Julia Child, James Beard and Edna Lewis \u003ccite>(Dan Wynn/Courtesy of the Wynn family and the James Beard Foundation)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There are testimonials to Beard's innovation, intelligence and wit. We hear that he was a master raconteur, loved a juicy piece of gossip, and was something of a scoundrel, skipping out on countless restaurant checks and flashing some of his guests and neighbors. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Beard scandalized his peers by endorsing everything from Planters Peanuts to Adolph's Meat Tenderizer to raise money for his cooking school, a move he later regretted, referring to himself as a \"gastronomic whore.\" We see a few saucy quotes from his books and learn of his participation in the design of The Four Seasons, an influential New York eatery that combined Beard's twin loves of theater and food. Interesting tidbit: the restaurant was among the first to change its menu seasonally, hence the name. Nevertheless, there are some awkward moments regarding Beard's personal life that darken the otherwise rosy portrait of the man who helped launch the farm to table movement, not the least of which is the low opinion many of his close friends held of his (apparently) life-long companion.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The film is a bit like a soufflé that fails to rise. All the right ingredients are present and seemingly in the correct proportions: celebrity chef testimonials, a few Beard recipes prepared by Jacques Pépin and Naomi Pomery, archival images of Beard's youth and early education, early TV appearances by the man himself, and glitzy footage of James Beard Awards bestowed. But something is missing; perhaps it is just the impossibility of knowing the true power of a celebrity's charm without the man present to demonstrate. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117057\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/jb-with-mustache-young056-800x963.jpeg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"963\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-117057\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/jb-with-mustache-young056-800x963.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/jb-with-mustache-young056-160x193.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/jb-with-mustache-young056-768x924.jpeg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/jb-with-mustache-young056-1020x1227.jpeg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/jb-with-mustache-young056-1180x1420.jpeg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/jb-with-mustache-young056-960x1155.jpeg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/jb-with-mustache-young056-240x289.jpeg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/jb-with-mustache-young056-375x451.jpeg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/jb-with-mustache-young056-520x626.jpeg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef James Beard \u003ccite>(Dan Wynn/Courtesy of the Wynn family and the James Beard Foundation)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There is no denying Beard's outsized personality and seemingly unquenchable lust for life. We learn how his innovations continue to proliferate within the food community today, though the film is unable to effectively convey the ineffable quality that made James Beard so beloved among his peers, inspiring a group of dedicated influencers to create a monument to his memory that became \"the Academy Awards of the food world.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The man whose face adorns the ultimate culinary seal of approval loved people, according to Julia Child, \"loved his work, loved gossip, loved to eat, [and] loved a good time.\" Seems like those are the very qualities necessary -- other than the food itself -- for a good meal, and the ones that cannot be prescribed in a cookbook. And maybe that's the secret to James Beard, he contained that extra something special that made a good dinner party great. \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "American Masters kicks off a \"Chefs Flight\" of four food documentaries with a new film about James Beard. The show airs on KQED 9 Friday, May 19 at 9:00pm. ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Though most of us are unfamiliar with the man behind the brand, we understand the name James Beard as synonymous with excellence in all things culinary. An \u003ca href=\"https://www.jamesbeard.org/awards\" target=\"_blank\">annual event named after him\u003c/a> has been honoring America's best chefs, restaurants and food-related media since 1990. The new film \u003cem>James Beard: America's First Foodie\u003c/em> chronicles the life of the man Julia Child referred to as \"the quintessential American cook,\" kicking off a \"Chefs Flight\" of four documentaries profiling Beard, Child, Alice Waters and Jacques Pépin for \u003cem>American Masters\u003c/em>' 31st season Friday, May 19 at 9:00pm on \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/tv/programs/index.jsp?pgmid=24298\" target=\"_blank\">KQED 9\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/okjaNGs6ViE'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/okjaNGs6ViE'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cp>James Beard was born in Portland, Oregon at the dawn of the 20th century to a mother, Elizabeth, who owned a small hotel and was something of a local sensation, both for her cooking and for her liberated lifestyle. The early education she provided in buying and preparing fresh, local foods in season would become the guiding principle for the food movement her son later catalyzed. By his own account, the young Beard was as unrestrained by convention as his libertine mother, understanding at an early age that he was homosexual. He was expelled from Reed College, where he studied acting, for engaging in (then-illegal) same-sex activity. At 19, Beard headed to Europe to study opera, but ended up exercising his large appetite in the bistros of Paris, whose practices he taught to others when he returned to Oregon. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Beard moved to New York in 1937, surviving lean times by cooking for friends in exchange for his supper. From these gatherings came his first success. He and William Rhode (later the editor of \u003ca href=\"http://www.gourmet.com/\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>Gourmet\u003c/em> magazine\u003c/a>) started a catering business called Hors D'Oeuvre, Inc, which provided the recipes for his first cookbook, \u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Doeuvre-Canapes-Library-American-Cooking/dp/076240664X\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>Hors d'oeuvre and Canapes\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, published in 1940. He followed that success with \u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Cook-outdoors-James-Beard/dp/B0007E2IPO/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1493846521&sr=1-1&keywords=cook+it+outdoors+james+beard\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>Cook It Outdoors\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, \"believed to be the first serious book on outdoor cooking,\" according to his \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/1985/01/24/nyregion/james-beard-authority-on-food-dies.html\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>New York Times\u003c/em> obituary\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117055\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/BeardJames-on-the-radio-at-reed-1020x1299.jpeg\" alt=\"\" width=\"640\" height=\"815\" class=\"size-large wp-image-117055\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/BeardJames-on-the-radio-at-reed-1020x1299.jpeg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/BeardJames-on-the-radio-at-reed-160x204.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/BeardJames-on-the-radio-at-reed-800x1019.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/BeardJames-on-the-radio-at-reed-768x978.jpeg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/BeardJames-on-the-radio-at-reed-1180x1503.jpeg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/BeardJames-on-the-radio-at-reed-960x1223.jpeg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/BeardJames-on-the-radio-at-reed-240x306.jpeg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/BeardJames-on-the-radio-at-reed-375x478.jpeg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/BeardJames-on-the-radio-at-reed-520x662.jpeg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef James Beard at Reed College \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Reed College)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In 1946, Beard hosted \u003cem>I Love to Eat\u003c/em> for two seasons on NBC, introducing cooking to TV. He founded The James Beard Cooking School in 1955, teaching people around the country how to cook for the next thirty years. The school eventually settled in Seaside, Oregon, where he taught each summer using the same fresh ingredients his mother prepared in his youth, and in the kitchen of his Greenwich Village brownstone in Manhattan, which also became a popular hangout for the rich and famous. Beard's good friend Julia Child lobbied for the preservation of his Manhattan home shortly after he died in 1985 and, through the efforts of Peter Krump, a former student, and a cadre of well-connected friends, the James Beard Foundation was born.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.pbs.org/wnet/americanmasters/james-beard-americas-first-foodie-film/8432/\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>America's First Foodie\u003c/em>\u003c/a> traces Beard's influence through the many chefs that surrounded him and came after, including Julia Child, Alice Waters, Jeremiah Tower and \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2017/04/12/jacques-ppin-the-art-of-craft-reveals-how-a-french-chef-became-an-american-master/\" target=\"_blank\">Jacques Pépin\u003c/a>, but what remains a mystery is the spirit that animated so many to come together to preserve his legacy. Several close friends affirm Beard's charms, but the man himself is unfortunately not on hand to glamour the viewer. How does one capture the \"life of the party\" when the party has been over for decades?\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117056\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/James-Beard-Julia-Child-Edna-Lewis-photo-Dan-Wynn--1020x1169.jpeg\" alt=\"\" width=\"640\" height=\"733\" class=\"size-large wp-image-117056\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/James-Beard-Julia-Child-Edna-Lewis-photo-Dan-Wynn--1020x1169.jpeg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/James-Beard-Julia-Child-Edna-Lewis-photo-Dan-Wynn--160x183.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/James-Beard-Julia-Child-Edna-Lewis-photo-Dan-Wynn--800x917.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/James-Beard-Julia-Child-Edna-Lewis-photo-Dan-Wynn--768x880.jpeg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/James-Beard-Julia-Child-Edna-Lewis-photo-Dan-Wynn--1180x1353.jpeg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/James-Beard-Julia-Child-Edna-Lewis-photo-Dan-Wynn--960x1101.jpeg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/James-Beard-Julia-Child-Edna-Lewis-photo-Dan-Wynn--240x275.jpeg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/James-Beard-Julia-Child-Edna-Lewis-photo-Dan-Wynn--375x430.jpeg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/James-Beard-Julia-Child-Edna-Lewis-photo-Dan-Wynn--520x596.jpeg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chefs Julia Child, James Beard and Edna Lewis \u003ccite>(Dan Wynn/Courtesy of the Wynn family and the James Beard Foundation)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There are testimonials to Beard's innovation, intelligence and wit. We hear that he was a master raconteur, loved a juicy piece of gossip, and was something of a scoundrel, skipping out on countless restaurant checks and flashing some of his guests and neighbors. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Beard scandalized his peers by endorsing everything from Planters Peanuts to Adolph's Meat Tenderizer to raise money for his cooking school, a move he later regretted, referring to himself as a \"gastronomic whore.\" We see a few saucy quotes from his books and learn of his participation in the design of The Four Seasons, an influential New York eatery that combined Beard's twin loves of theater and food. Interesting tidbit: the restaurant was among the first to change its menu seasonally, hence the name. Nevertheless, there are some awkward moments regarding Beard's personal life that darken the otherwise rosy portrait of the man who helped launch the farm to table movement, not the least of which is the low opinion many of his close friends held of his (apparently) life-long companion.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The film is a bit like a soufflé that fails to rise. All the right ingredients are present and seemingly in the correct proportions: celebrity chef testimonials, a few Beard recipes prepared by Jacques Pépin and Naomi Pomery, archival images of Beard's youth and early education, early TV appearances by the man himself, and glitzy footage of James Beard Awards bestowed. But something is missing; perhaps it is just the impossibility of knowing the true power of a celebrity's charm without the man present to demonstrate. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117057\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/jb-with-mustache-young056-800x963.jpeg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"963\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-117057\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/jb-with-mustache-young056-800x963.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/jb-with-mustache-young056-160x193.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/jb-with-mustache-young056-768x924.jpeg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/jb-with-mustache-young056-1020x1227.jpeg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/jb-with-mustache-young056-1180x1420.jpeg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/jb-with-mustache-young056-960x1155.jpeg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/jb-with-mustache-young056-240x289.jpeg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/jb-with-mustache-young056-375x451.jpeg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/jb-with-mustache-young056-520x626.jpeg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef James Beard \u003ccite>(Dan Wynn/Courtesy of the Wynn family and the James Beard Foundation)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There is no denying Beard's outsized personality and seemingly unquenchable lust for life. We learn how his innovations continue to proliferate within the food community today, though the film is unable to effectively convey the ineffable quality that made James Beard so beloved among his peers, inspiring a group of dedicated influencers to create a monument to his memory that became \"the Academy Awards of the food world.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The man whose face adorns the ultimate culinary seal of approval loved people, according to Julia Child, \"loved his work, loved gossip, loved to eat, [and] loved a good time.\" Seems like those are the very qualities necessary -- other than the food itself -- for a good meal, and the ones that cannot be prescribed in a cookbook. And maybe that's the secret to James Beard, he contained that extra something special that made a good dinner party great. \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "A New Law Would Legalize Selling Home-Cooked Food in California",
"title": "A New Law Would Legalize Selling Home-Cooked Food in California",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>A few years back, Christina Nelson, an office manager and student, craved a more meaningful life. She soon joined the Slow Food movement in San Diego, and began to experiment with cooking local and sustainable meals prepared in traditional ways. Eventually, she learned how to make naturally leavened bread using locally milled whole grains. She loved the whole process and decided to make a career out of baking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“It was something I’d always thought about as a kid, [that] it would be fun to run a café,” Nelson said. She landed a job working in a commercial bakery in Los Angeles, but the grueling commute from her new home in Orange County curtailed that dream. Deciding to make a go of it on her own, Nelson rented space in a shared commercial kitchen. But the hourly rental fees added up quickly during her 12-hour baking shifts, making for little, if any, profit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fortunately, Nelson could apply for a cottage food permit, thanks to a 2012 California \u003ca href=\"http://www.cdph.ca.gov/programs/pages/fdbcottagefood.aspx\">law\u003c/a> allowing home cooks to sell some non-perishable foods—granola, candies, baked goods—out of their home kitchens. The process that took months, and included an inspection visit from a local health regulator, and once she was permitted, she launched \u003ca href=\"https://www.demeterbread.com/about\">Demeter Bread and Pastry\u003c/a>, and began selling bread, cookies, and other baked goods at the Santa Ana farmers’ market.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, Nelson sees another business opportunity in selling hot, healthy, and locally sourced lunches at nearby business parks, but she can’t do that under the current law. But that could change. In February, California Assemblymember Eduardo Garcia \u003ca href=\"https://a56.asmdc.org/press-release/assemblymember-eduardo-garcia-introduces-bill-legalize-homemade-meal-sales\">introduced\u003c/a> the Homemade Food Legislation Act (AB 626), which would permit the sale of prepared meals and other foods from small-scale home kitchen operations. Last week, AB 626 \u003ca href=\"http://www.record-bee.com/lifestyle/20170427/bill-would-allow-home-cooks-to-sell-meals\">passed the state’s Health Committee\u003c/a> with a vote of 12-0, with three members abstaining; the full Assembly is set to vote on the bill before May 26.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And while Garcia hopes the bill can be an “important lever of economic empowerment for immigrant, minority, and other vulnerable communities,” it’s not without its opponents. The \u003ca href=\"http://www.theselc.org/cottage_food_laws\">Sustainable Economies Law Center\u003c/a> (SELC), the group that wrote the 2012 bill, worries that the new legislation could give \u003ca href=\"http://civileats.com/2015/08/10/josephine-com-wants-to-bring-the-sharing-economy-to-your-kitchen/\">web platforms like Josephine\u003c/a>, and others tech companies like it on the horizon, too much power over home cook.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Reducing Barriers for Marginalized Cooks\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Many of my constituents have expressed their concerns and frustrations trying to work in compliance with the existing, overly complicated cottage food laws,” said Garcia in a \u003ca href=\"https://a56.asmdc.org/press-release/assemblymember-eduardo-garcia-introduces-bill-legalize-homemade-meal-sales\">press release\u003c/a>. “This measure aims to knock down barriers and expand opportunities for marginalized populations who often lack access to the professional food world.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nelson, who has struggled to find the resources to expand her business beyond baked goods, hopes the legislation will allow her to have an additional source of income without a huge infusion of money. “It would make it a lot easier for me to expand without renting a commercial kitchen space.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She is one of the state’s many home cooks, a significant percentage of whom are women and immigrants, who could benefit from the new legislation, which would legalize the small-scale sale of homemade foods like tamales and other hot foods. Last year, the hazards of participating in the informal food economy came to light when the story of Mariza Ruelas went viral. The Stockton mom of six was \u003ca href=\"http://www.latimes.com/local/lanow/la-me-ln-ceviche-selling-stockton-20161107-story.html\">threatened by authorities\u003c/a> for selling homemade ceviche through a private Facebook food swap group. Ruelas, no surprise, \u003ca href=\"https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0Z_vVfobXaIZklfTDJpeDFTczA/view\">supports the new legislation\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Angela Janus, executive director of \u003ca href=\"http://www.kesq.com/news/coachella-aims-to-open-a-sharekitchen/63035443\">ShareKitchen\u003c/a> and a consultant with the Coachella Valley Small Business Development Center, thinks the proposed law is great, especially if it means streamlining the permit process while empowering small business incubation for those who can’t operate legally under existing cottage food laws. When more people can legally start small food businesses at home, the idea goes, they’ll also have a legitimate stepping stone to successful catering or commercial food operations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“There are a lot of traditional Hispanic foods being prepared in home kitchens and shared in local communities that are unregulated,” said Janus. She adds that the legislation could help to address current issues of safety, sanitation, equity, and zoning.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>The Uberization of Homemade Food?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The homemade food legislation still has a long way to go. In its current form, it’s only a legislative declaration of intent or a “spot bill.” It doesn’t lay out any specifics about training requirements, or what the actual permit process and registration might look like.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117102\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 768px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/170425-cottage-food-2-768x512.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"768\" height=\"512\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117102\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/170425-cottage-food-2-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/170425-cottage-food-2-768x512-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/170425-cottage-food-2-768x512-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/170425-cottage-food-2-768x512-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/170425-cottage-food-2-768x512-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Photo courtesy of \u003ca href=\"https://stories.josephine.com/\">Josephine\u003c/a>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“Essentially, the bill seeks to create a new registration or permit process that would allow home cooks to sell directly to customers while complying with a series of health, safety, sanitation, and education guidelines,” said Matt Jorgensen, the co-CEO of Josephine, an online food sales platform headquartered in Oakland. Josephine sponsored the new legislation after cooks in several Bay Area cities selling meals through its site received \u003ca href=\"http://www.berkeleyside.com/2016/05/11/food-startup-josephine-pauses-east-bay-operations/\">cease-and-desist orders from health regulators last summer\u003c/a>. The company continues to operate in Oregon and Washington.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Josephine made the foray into the legislative process early last year, but the bill’s first iteration was killed on arrival, shot down by the \u003ca href=\"http://www.ccdeh.com/\">California Conference of Directors of Environmental Health\u003c/a> (CCDEH).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We hadn’t worked with them to develop a policy. They told us that if there was going to be some sort of legitimization of this informal economy, then they needed to be part of it, and it needed to be a new permit process,” said Jorgensen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Within months, the health regulators developed an ad hoc committee to develop the language of the legislation and permit process. At the same time, Josephine assembled a working group made up of home cooks, legal experts from the UCLA and Harvard Food Law Clinics, and other stakeholders including the California Food Policy Council, the Cottage Food Operator’s Association of America, and more.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once the stakeholders were in place, Josephine’s representatives connected with Assemblymember Garcia, who had already expressed a desire to revisit homemade food laws as a way to develop his policy agenda of economic empowerment of minority populations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Early on, Josephine also worked closely with SELC and Christina Oatfield, a policy director with the organization, who was a key architect of the 2012 Cottage Food Act. However, SELC recently stepped away from the new, expanded legislation, saying they were not comfortable with the potential \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xT6A3kWTsNM\">“Uberization” of food\u003c/a> posed by the participation of companies like Josephine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to Oatfield, SELC will only support further homemade food legislation if it \u003ca href=\"http://www.theselc.org/creating_community_owned_food_systems\">ensures\u003c/a> some form of community ownership of any web platforms involved in the sale of homemade foods. They’d like to see a provision that limits that ownership to cooks and/or eater-owned cooperatives, nonprofit organizations, or government agencies. The model they proposed is based on the way certified farmers’ markets are run in California.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“When you have a whole industry that’s operated by stakeholder groups—farmers, home cooks, nonprofit organization groups, local governments—it really changes the dynamic and changes the priorities for the industry—compared to tech companies that are for-profit and backed by venture capitalists out to make huge profits,” explained Oatfield.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s not yet clear how such a law would be enforced. It could be through individual court actions, or through a limit on the types of web platforms that receive permits from environmental health regulators at the county or city level.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What is clear is that a company like Josephine, as it’s currently structured, would not be allowed to operate legally under SELC’s proposal. At play, says Oatfield, are important questions about whether home cooks will be considered independent contractors, and whether they will have any protections under employment law. There are also questions about whether the cooks working with online platforms will be pressed to cook more food faster or with lower-quality ingredients, either of which could affect food safety.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We don’t know what’s going to happen, but looking at other industries where tech has come in and shaken things up, we have a lot of reasons to be concerned,” added Oatfield.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I like the idea of having an nonprofit or co-op model because our margins aren’t going to be big,” said Christina Nelson, the baker. Home kitchens aren’t set up to mass-produce, she points out. “It’s not like anyone is getting rich off of doing this in their home and if a for-profit company took a good chunk, it wouldn’t be worth doing.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Last August, Jorgensen addressed some of these issues in a \u003ca href=\"https://blog.josephine.com/towards-a-more-sharing-economy-d06181092f81\">statement.\u003c/a> As he explained it, Josephine takes a 10 percent cut of a cook’s sales. In addition, Josephine has established a Cook Council to act as a communication bridge between the company and the cooks; a representative from the council holds a seat on Josephine’s Board of Directors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Josephine co-CEO Charley Wang \u003ca href=\"https://blog.josephine.com/last-month-josephine-introduced-a-new-bill-that-would-allow-home-cooks-to-make-money-selling-food-9281a42616f8\">has argued\u003c/a> from the start that it’s possible for a for-profit tech company to empower and give agency to their providers rather than exploiting them for maximum output and profit. In exchange, cooks—some of whom lack the language and/or technology skills to market themselves—get an established platform that, in theory, gives access to the support and resources they need to sell their food to customers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Others agree with Wang. A self-professed “great fan of cooperatives,” Peter Ruddock, a coordinator with \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/CalFPC/\">California Food Policy Council \u003c/a>and \u003ca href=\"https://www.slowfoodusa.org/slow-food-california\">Slow Food California\u003c/a>, says linking homemade food and cooperatives complicates the legislation without offering significant benefits. Furthermore, he says it was easy for Uber for commodify rides, which aren’t all that unique. It’ll be harder for a tech company to commodify homemade meals, which vary by geography, ingredients, and individual chefs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ultimately, Ruddock thinks we should welcome any opportunity to expand local food businesses. “This is one of many steps to reconnect with our food,” he said. “This [new homemade food legislation] is the next step in what is probably going to be a long-term process.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In other states, some cooks have already turned to tech companies as support for their home cooking endeavors. In addition to Josephine, \u003ca href=\"http://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/toronto/mealsurfers-food-cooks-hungry-1.3312848\">Meal Surfers\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://la.eater.com/2015/10/7/9472893/delivery-app-mytable-cooks-local-meal-new\">MyTable\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://umi.kitchen/\">Umi Kitchen\u003c/a> are hoping to engage home chefs in Los Angeles, New York, Toronto, and beyond.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And the benefits are tangible where it’s working. Take Ramona Chitrakar-Walson, who immigrated to the U.S. from Nepal. Now a mother of two living in Seattle, Washington, Chitrakar-Walson uses the Josephine site to sell authentic Nepalese meals to fellow immigrants from Nepal and other curious eaters. She’d considered joining a cooking club or selling momos (Nepali dumplings) at the local farmers’ market, but she balked at the start-up costs and paperwork involved in starting her own business. The ready-to-go tech platform has allowed her to focus on cooking meals for her home and connecting with the local community instead\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I wouldn’t have been able to start anything like this on my own,” said Chitrakar-Walson.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>About the Author\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nLeilani Clark is a freelance writer based in Santa Rosa, California. Her work has appeared in \u003cem>The North Bay Bohemian\u003c/em>, \u003cem>Made Local\u003c/em>, \u003cem>Shareable\u003c/em>, \u003cem>Yes, \u003c/em>\u003cem>The Orlando Weekly\u003c/em>, and \u003cem>The Sacramento News and Review\u003c/em>. She is a 2014 California Endowment Health Journalism Fellow through the USC Annenberg School of Communication.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "California is trying to legalize small-scale sale of food made by home cooks. But will it allow tech startups to treat home cooks like Uber drivers?",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>A few years back, Christina Nelson, an office manager and student, craved a more meaningful life. She soon joined the Slow Food movement in San Diego, and began to experiment with cooking local and sustainable meals prepared in traditional ways. Eventually, she learned how to make naturally leavened bread using locally milled whole grains. She loved the whole process and decided to make a career out of baking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“It was something I’d always thought about as a kid, [that] it would be fun to run a café,” Nelson said. She landed a job working in a commercial bakery in Los Angeles, but the grueling commute from her new home in Orange County curtailed that dream. Deciding to make a go of it on her own, Nelson rented space in a shared commercial kitchen. But the hourly rental fees added up quickly during her 12-hour baking shifts, making for little, if any, profit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fortunately, Nelson could apply for a cottage food permit, thanks to a 2012 California \u003ca href=\"http://www.cdph.ca.gov/programs/pages/fdbcottagefood.aspx\">law\u003c/a> allowing home cooks to sell some non-perishable foods—granola, candies, baked goods—out of their home kitchens. The process that took months, and included an inspection visit from a local health regulator, and once she was permitted, she launched \u003ca href=\"https://www.demeterbread.com/about\">Demeter Bread and Pastry\u003c/a>, and began selling bread, cookies, and other baked goods at the Santa Ana farmers’ market.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, Nelson sees another business opportunity in selling hot, healthy, and locally sourced lunches at nearby business parks, but she can’t do that under the current law. But that could change. In February, California Assemblymember Eduardo Garcia \u003ca href=\"https://a56.asmdc.org/press-release/assemblymember-eduardo-garcia-introduces-bill-legalize-homemade-meal-sales\">introduced\u003c/a> the Homemade Food Legislation Act (AB 626), which would permit the sale of prepared meals and other foods from small-scale home kitchen operations. Last week, AB 626 \u003ca href=\"http://www.record-bee.com/lifestyle/20170427/bill-would-allow-home-cooks-to-sell-meals\">passed the state’s Health Committee\u003c/a> with a vote of 12-0, with three members abstaining; the full Assembly is set to vote on the bill before May 26.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And while Garcia hopes the bill can be an “important lever of economic empowerment for immigrant, minority, and other vulnerable communities,” it’s not without its opponents. The \u003ca href=\"http://www.theselc.org/cottage_food_laws\">Sustainable Economies Law Center\u003c/a> (SELC), the group that wrote the 2012 bill, worries that the new legislation could give \u003ca href=\"http://civileats.com/2015/08/10/josephine-com-wants-to-bring-the-sharing-economy-to-your-kitchen/\">web platforms like Josephine\u003c/a>, and others tech companies like it on the horizon, too much power over home cook.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Reducing Barriers for Marginalized Cooks\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Many of my constituents have expressed their concerns and frustrations trying to work in compliance with the existing, overly complicated cottage food laws,” said Garcia in a \u003ca href=\"https://a56.asmdc.org/press-release/assemblymember-eduardo-garcia-introduces-bill-legalize-homemade-meal-sales\">press release\u003c/a>. “This measure aims to knock down barriers and expand opportunities for marginalized populations who often lack access to the professional food world.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nelson, who has struggled to find the resources to expand her business beyond baked goods, hopes the legislation will allow her to have an additional source of income without a huge infusion of money. “It would make it a lot easier for me to expand without renting a commercial kitchen space.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She is one of the state’s many home cooks, a significant percentage of whom are women and immigrants, who could benefit from the new legislation, which would legalize the small-scale sale of homemade foods like tamales and other hot foods. Last year, the hazards of participating in the informal food economy came to light when the story of Mariza Ruelas went viral. The Stockton mom of six was \u003ca href=\"http://www.latimes.com/local/lanow/la-me-ln-ceviche-selling-stockton-20161107-story.html\">threatened by authorities\u003c/a> for selling homemade ceviche through a private Facebook food swap group. Ruelas, no surprise, \u003ca href=\"https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0Z_vVfobXaIZklfTDJpeDFTczA/view\">supports the new legislation\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Angela Janus, executive director of \u003ca href=\"http://www.kesq.com/news/coachella-aims-to-open-a-sharekitchen/63035443\">ShareKitchen\u003c/a> and a consultant with the Coachella Valley Small Business Development Center, thinks the proposed law is great, especially if it means streamlining the permit process while empowering small business incubation for those who can’t operate legally under existing cottage food laws. When more people can legally start small food businesses at home, the idea goes, they’ll also have a legitimate stepping stone to successful catering or commercial food operations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“There are a lot of traditional Hispanic foods being prepared in home kitchens and shared in local communities that are unregulated,” said Janus. She adds that the legislation could help to address current issues of safety, sanitation, equity, and zoning.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>The Uberization of Homemade Food?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The homemade food legislation still has a long way to go. In its current form, it’s only a legislative declaration of intent or a “spot bill.” It doesn’t lay out any specifics about training requirements, or what the actual permit process and registration might look like.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117102\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 768px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/170425-cottage-food-2-768x512.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"768\" height=\"512\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117102\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/170425-cottage-food-2-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/170425-cottage-food-2-768x512-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/170425-cottage-food-2-768x512-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/170425-cottage-food-2-768x512-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/170425-cottage-food-2-768x512-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Photo courtesy of \u003ca href=\"https://stories.josephine.com/\">Josephine\u003c/a>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“Essentially, the bill seeks to create a new registration or permit process that would allow home cooks to sell directly to customers while complying with a series of health, safety, sanitation, and education guidelines,” said Matt Jorgensen, the co-CEO of Josephine, an online food sales platform headquartered in Oakland. Josephine sponsored the new legislation after cooks in several Bay Area cities selling meals through its site received \u003ca href=\"http://www.berkeleyside.com/2016/05/11/food-startup-josephine-pauses-east-bay-operations/\">cease-and-desist orders from health regulators last summer\u003c/a>. The company continues to operate in Oregon and Washington.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Josephine made the foray into the legislative process early last year, but the bill’s first iteration was killed on arrival, shot down by the \u003ca href=\"http://www.ccdeh.com/\">California Conference of Directors of Environmental Health\u003c/a> (CCDEH).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We hadn’t worked with them to develop a policy. They told us that if there was going to be some sort of legitimization of this informal economy, then they needed to be part of it, and it needed to be a new permit process,” said Jorgensen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Within months, the health regulators developed an ad hoc committee to develop the language of the legislation and permit process. At the same time, Josephine assembled a working group made up of home cooks, legal experts from the UCLA and Harvard Food Law Clinics, and other stakeholders including the California Food Policy Council, the Cottage Food Operator’s Association of America, and more.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once the stakeholders were in place, Josephine’s representatives connected with Assemblymember Garcia, who had already expressed a desire to revisit homemade food laws as a way to develop his policy agenda of economic empowerment of minority populations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Early on, Josephine also worked closely with SELC and Christina Oatfield, a policy director with the organization, who was a key architect of the 2012 Cottage Food Act. However, SELC recently stepped away from the new, expanded legislation, saying they were not comfortable with the potential \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xT6A3kWTsNM\">“Uberization” of food\u003c/a> posed by the participation of companies like Josephine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to Oatfield, SELC will only support further homemade food legislation if it \u003ca href=\"http://www.theselc.org/creating_community_owned_food_systems\">ensures\u003c/a> some form of community ownership of any web platforms involved in the sale of homemade foods. They’d like to see a provision that limits that ownership to cooks and/or eater-owned cooperatives, nonprofit organizations, or government agencies. The model they proposed is based on the way certified farmers’ markets are run in California.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“When you have a whole industry that’s operated by stakeholder groups—farmers, home cooks, nonprofit organization groups, local governments—it really changes the dynamic and changes the priorities for the industry—compared to tech companies that are for-profit and backed by venture capitalists out to make huge profits,” explained Oatfield.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s not yet clear how such a law would be enforced. It could be through individual court actions, or through a limit on the types of web platforms that receive permits from environmental health regulators at the county or city level.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What is clear is that a company like Josephine, as it’s currently structured, would not be allowed to operate legally under SELC’s proposal. At play, says Oatfield, are important questions about whether home cooks will be considered independent contractors, and whether they will have any protections under employment law. There are also questions about whether the cooks working with online platforms will be pressed to cook more food faster or with lower-quality ingredients, either of which could affect food safety.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We don’t know what’s going to happen, but looking at other industries where tech has come in and shaken things up, we have a lot of reasons to be concerned,” added Oatfield.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I like the idea of having an nonprofit or co-op model because our margins aren’t going to be big,” said Christina Nelson, the baker. Home kitchens aren’t set up to mass-produce, she points out. “It’s not like anyone is getting rich off of doing this in their home and if a for-profit company took a good chunk, it wouldn’t be worth doing.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Last August, Jorgensen addressed some of these issues in a \u003ca href=\"https://blog.josephine.com/towards-a-more-sharing-economy-d06181092f81\">statement.\u003c/a> As he explained it, Josephine takes a 10 percent cut of a cook’s sales. In addition, Josephine has established a Cook Council to act as a communication bridge between the company and the cooks; a representative from the council holds a seat on Josephine’s Board of Directors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Josephine co-CEO Charley Wang \u003ca href=\"https://blog.josephine.com/last-month-josephine-introduced-a-new-bill-that-would-allow-home-cooks-to-make-money-selling-food-9281a42616f8\">has argued\u003c/a> from the start that it’s possible for a for-profit tech company to empower and give agency to their providers rather than exploiting them for maximum output and profit. In exchange, cooks—some of whom lack the language and/or technology skills to market themselves—get an established platform that, in theory, gives access to the support and resources they need to sell their food to customers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Others agree with Wang. A self-professed “great fan of cooperatives,” Peter Ruddock, a coordinator with \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/CalFPC/\">California Food Policy Council \u003c/a>and \u003ca href=\"https://www.slowfoodusa.org/slow-food-california\">Slow Food California\u003c/a>, says linking homemade food and cooperatives complicates the legislation without offering significant benefits. Furthermore, he says it was easy for Uber for commodify rides, which aren’t all that unique. It’ll be harder for a tech company to commodify homemade meals, which vary by geography, ingredients, and individual chefs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ultimately, Ruddock thinks we should welcome any opportunity to expand local food businesses. “This is one of many steps to reconnect with our food,” he said. “This [new homemade food legislation] is the next step in what is probably going to be a long-term process.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In other states, some cooks have already turned to tech companies as support for their home cooking endeavors. In addition to Josephine, \u003ca href=\"http://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/toronto/mealsurfers-food-cooks-hungry-1.3312848\">Meal Surfers\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://la.eater.com/2015/10/7/9472893/delivery-app-mytable-cooks-local-meal-new\">MyTable\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://umi.kitchen/\">Umi Kitchen\u003c/a> are hoping to engage home chefs in Los Angeles, New York, Toronto, and beyond.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And the benefits are tangible where it’s working. Take Ramona Chitrakar-Walson, who immigrated to the U.S. from Nepal. Now a mother of two living in Seattle, Washington, Chitrakar-Walson uses the Josephine site to sell authentic Nepalese meals to fellow immigrants from Nepal and other curious eaters. She’d considered joining a cooking club or selling momos (Nepali dumplings) at the local farmers’ market, but she balked at the start-up costs and paperwork involved in starting her own business. The ready-to-go tech platform has allowed her to focus on cooking meals for her home and connecting with the local community instead\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I wouldn’t have been able to start anything like this on my own,” said Chitrakar-Walson.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>About the Author\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nLeilani Clark is a freelance writer based in Santa Rosa, California. Her work has appeared in \u003cem>The North Bay Bohemian\u003c/em>, \u003cem>Made Local\u003c/em>, \u003cem>Shareable\u003c/em>, \u003cem>Yes, \u003c/em>\u003cem>The Orlando Weekly\u003c/em>, and \u003cem>The Sacramento News and Review\u003c/em>. She is a 2014 California Endowment Health Journalism Fellow through the USC Annenberg School of Communication.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Rosa Parks' Pancake Recipe Helps Us See The Human Side Of A Hero",
"title": "Rosa Parks' Pancake Recipe Helps Us See The Human Side Of A Hero",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>In 2015, after a 10-year legal battle, the Library of Congress released a trove of Rosa Parks' personal documents. Last year the papers were put online for the first time. They include postcards from the Rev. Martin Luther King Jr., lists of volunteers for the Montgomery Bus Boycott, and pages and pages of journals.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Buried in the Parks collection is another document that doesn't have as much historical significance – but it got my attention. It's a pancake recipe, written on the back of an envelope.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At first glance, Parks' recipe for \"Featherlite Pancakes\" seems little more than a charming footnote, especially because of the novelty of including peanut butter in pancake batter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But as we find in this week's episode of \u003ca href=\"http://www.sporkful.com\">The Sporkful food podcast\u003c/a>, this recipe is actually a window into a time and place, and a person most of us know little about.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ciframe src=\"https://art19.com/shows/the-sporkful/episodes/4895bff0-f8ca-4e7b-b8f2-64784c9df090/embed?theme=dark-custom\" style=\"width: 100%; height: 200px; border: 0 none;\" scrolling=\"no\">\u003c/iframe>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We have all these misconceptions about [Rosa Parks],\" says food writer \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodculturist.com/\">Nicole Taylor\u003c/a>, author of \u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Up-South-Cookbook-Chasing-Brooklyn/dp/1581573014\">\u003cem>The Up South Cookbook\u003c/em>\u003c/a>. \"She's human. And the pancakes are the most human thing.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What's in an envelope?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The fact that Parks wrote this recipe on the back of a banking envelope, and that the bank was in Detroit, tells us a lot about her life after Dec. 1, 1955, when she refused to give up her seat on that bus in Montgomery, Ala.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"She had lost her job for taking the stand that she did,\" explains Adrienne Cannon, who curates the \u003ca href=\"https://www.loc.gov/collections/rosa-parks-papers/about-this-collection/\">Rosa Parks papers\u003c/a> at the Library of Congress. \"Both she and her husband were receiving death threats. And she was struggling to find gainful employment again.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This discrimination eventually forced Parks and her husband to move to Detroit, where she'd end up spending more than half her life. They always struggled financially and she had to be frugal, which is why she reused papers, like banking envelopes, for recipes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>A 'quintessentially African-American' recipe\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I brought a copy of the recipe to Detroit and showed it to Rosa Parks' niece, Sheila McCauley Keys, she was surprised: \"Why would you put peanut butter in pancakes?\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Food writer Nicole Taylor had a similar reaction. \"Adding peanut butter into a pancake mix, you don't see that a lot,\" she says. \"But then the Tuskegee thing.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117083\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/rosaparks_custom-8b9908a8e1495eb047e72ca5dbae721b05981e11-1020x1818.jpg\" alt=\"Rosa Parks' "Featherlite Pancakes" recipe calls for peanut butter.\" width=\"640\" height=\"1141\" class=\"size-large wp-image-117083\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/rosaparks_custom-8b9908a8e1495eb047e72ca5dbae721b05981e11-1020x1818.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/rosaparks_custom-8b9908a8e1495eb047e72ca5dbae721b05981e11-160x285.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/rosaparks_custom-8b9908a8e1495eb047e72ca5dbae721b05981e11-800x1426.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/rosaparks_custom-8b9908a8e1495eb047e72ca5dbae721b05981e11-768x1369.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/rosaparks_custom-8b9908a8e1495eb047e72ca5dbae721b05981e11-1180x2103.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/rosaparks_custom-8b9908a8e1495eb047e72ca5dbae721b05981e11-960x1711.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/rosaparks_custom-8b9908a8e1495eb047e72ca5dbae721b05981e11-240x428.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/rosaparks_custom-8b9908a8e1495eb047e72ca5dbae721b05981e11-375x668.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/rosaparks_custom-8b9908a8e1495eb047e72ca5dbae721b05981e11-520x927.jpg 520w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/rosaparks_custom-8b9908a8e1495eb047e72ca5dbae721b05981e11.jpg 1519w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Rosa Parks' \"Featherlite Pancakes\" recipe calls for peanut butter. \u003ccite>(Library of Congress)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Or as curator Adrienne Cannon calls it, \"the peanut connection.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rosa Parks was born in 1913 in Tuskegee, Ala., home of Tuskegee Institute, where George Washington Carver gained fame for his work with peanuts. His goal was to help black farmers in the South grow a cash crop other than cotton, so they could support themselves better in the years after slavery. By the 1920s Carver was a household name, and by 1940 peanut production was second only to cotton in the South.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the connection between African-American food and peanuts is rooted even deeper. Indigenous to South America, peanuts traveled to the Caribbean and then to Africa, where they were infused into African cuisine. Peanuts came to the American South via the slave trade.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"They were cultivated by African slaves to supplement their diets,\" Cannon explains. \"They were also fed to hogs. But it wasn't really until Carver's publications in the early 20th century that [peanuts] become loved not just by African-Americans but by the rest of the populace.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Neither Cannon nor Taylor had heard of putting peanut butter in pancake batter before seeing Rosa Parks' recipe. But if the idea would come from anywhere, it would be from Southern African-American food traditions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Says Cannon, \"This recipe is quintessentially African-American.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And it's quintessentially Rosa Parks. Not only did she grow up in Alabama at the same time George Washington Carver was doing his work there, but as her niece Deborah Ann Ross told me, \"She loved peanut butter. That's probably what made her write this down.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117091\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/47600v_custom-948b12126de975543691d4e311088ff358250098-s1500-c85.jpg\" alt=\"Rosa Parks with her niece Susan McCauley and family outside the Holly Tree Inn in Hampton, Va., 1989\" width=\"1024\" height=\"699\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117091\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/47600v_custom-948b12126de975543691d4e311088ff358250098-s1500-c85.jpg 1024w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/47600v_custom-948b12126de975543691d4e311088ff358250098-s1500-c85-160x109.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/47600v_custom-948b12126de975543691d4e311088ff358250098-s1500-c85-800x546.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/47600v_custom-948b12126de975543691d4e311088ff358250098-s1500-c85-768x524.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/47600v_custom-948b12126de975543691d4e311088ff358250098-s1500-c85-1020x696.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/47600v_custom-948b12126de975543691d4e311088ff358250098-s1500-c85-960x655.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/47600v_custom-948b12126de975543691d4e311088ff358250098-s1500-c85-240x164.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/47600v_custom-948b12126de975543691d4e311088ff358250098-s1500-c85-375x256.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/47600v_custom-948b12126de975543691d4e311088ff358250098-s1500-c85-520x355.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Rosa Parks with her niece Susan McCauley and family outside the Holly Tree Inn in Hampton, Va., 1989 \u003ccite>(Library of Congress)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Rosa Parks in the kitchen\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Parks and her husband never had kids of their own, but it's clear she loved children. She often cared for, and cooked for, her 11 nieces and nephews. Her niece Sheila McCauley Keys wrote \u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Our-Auntie-Rosa-Remembers-Lessons/dp/1101983205\">a book\u003c/a> that includes many of her \"Auntie Rosa's\" recipes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117085\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1279px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/fullsizerender-7-84c2c010ee2a8874f0949ca05018f499a5a7453a.jpg\" alt=\"Rosa Parks' nieces Sheila McCauley Keys and Deborah Ann Ross (center) with the author, Dan Pashman.\" width=\"1279\" height=\"959\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117085\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/fullsizerender-7-84c2c010ee2a8874f0949ca05018f499a5a7453a.jpg 1279w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/fullsizerender-7-84c2c010ee2a8874f0949ca05018f499a5a7453a-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/fullsizerender-7-84c2c010ee2a8874f0949ca05018f499a5a7453a-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/fullsizerender-7-84c2c010ee2a8874f0949ca05018f499a5a7453a-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/fullsizerender-7-84c2c010ee2a8874f0949ca05018f499a5a7453a-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/fullsizerender-7-84c2c010ee2a8874f0949ca05018f499a5a7453a-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/fullsizerender-7-84c2c010ee2a8874f0949ca05018f499a5a7453a-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/fullsizerender-7-84c2c010ee2a8874f0949ca05018f499a5a7453a-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/fullsizerender-7-84c2c010ee2a8874f0949ca05018f499a5a7453a-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/fullsizerender-7-84c2c010ee2a8874f0949ca05018f499a5a7453a-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1279px) 100vw, 1279px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Rosa Parks' nieces Sheila McCauley Keys and Deborah Ann Ross (center) with the author, Dan Pashman. \u003ccite>(Dan Pashman for NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>When I visited Keys and Ross in Detroit for this episode of \u003cem>The Sporkful\u003c/em> podcast, they cooked up several of their aunt's recipes — chicken and dumplings, cornbread griddle cakes, cabbage and bacon, and lemonade.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Auntie Rosa's lemonade involved simmering the lemons in water for 30 minutes, which on a hot day could feel like a long time to wait for a drink.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"She would be in that kitchen, and you were not invited in,\" recalls Keys. \"You would just hear pots and pans. But eventually, when it came out, it was the best thing ever.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As Nicole Taylor and I cooked those peanut butter pancakes, we found ourselves thinking a lot about what it might've been like to cook with Rosa Parks. Did she wear her usual formal outfit in the kitchen, or something more comfortable? Which brand of flour did she prefer? And would she approve of putting buttermilk, instead of milk, in the batter, as Nicole did?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One thing was for sure: When we took our first bites, we found the pancakes were true to their name – featherlite.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117086\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1631px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/img_5562-9017824300ac854941e1b9d974d130fc462cdea6.jpg\" alt=\"While making the peanut butter pancakes, food writer Nicole Taylor and I imagined what it would be like to cook with Rosa Parks.\" width=\"1631\" height=\"1223\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117086\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/img_5562-9017824300ac854941e1b9d974d130fc462cdea6.jpg 1631w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/img_5562-9017824300ac854941e1b9d974d130fc462cdea6-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/img_5562-9017824300ac854941e1b9d974d130fc462cdea6-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/img_5562-9017824300ac854941e1b9d974d130fc462cdea6-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/img_5562-9017824300ac854941e1b9d974d130fc462cdea6-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/img_5562-9017824300ac854941e1b9d974d130fc462cdea6-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/img_5562-9017824300ac854941e1b9d974d130fc462cdea6-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/img_5562-9017824300ac854941e1b9d974d130fc462cdea6-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/img_5562-9017824300ac854941e1b9d974d130fc462cdea6-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/img_5562-9017824300ac854941e1b9d974d130fc462cdea6-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1631px) 100vw, 1631px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">While making the peanut butter pancakes, food writer Nicole Taylor and I imagined what it would be like to cook with Rosa Parks. \u003ccite>(Dan Pashman for NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"You can taste the peanut butter. The peanut butter really hits the back [of your tongue] quickly,\" says Taylor. \"I've had two bites without syrup. That says a lot.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It makes me look at [Rosa Parks] as more of a 'normal person,' \" Taylor says of making and eating the pancakes. \"She had to eat. She wasn't just this person who was all about the civil rights movement. She cared about nurturing and feeding her family. The pancake recipe makes me feel closer to her.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Dan Pashman is the James Beard Award-nominated host of \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"http://www.sporkful.com\">\u003cem>The Sporkful podcast\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem>, which is available in \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/the-sporkful/id350709629\">\u003cem>Apple Podcasts\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem>, \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"http://www.stitcher.com/podcast/stitcher/the-sporkful\">\u003cem>Stitcher\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem>, or wherever you get your podcasts.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>In 2015, after a 10-year legal battle, the Library of Congress released a trove of Rosa Parks' personal documents. Last year the papers were put online for the first time. They include postcards from the Rev. Martin Luther King Jr., lists of volunteers for the Montgomery Bus Boycott, and pages and pages of journals.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Buried in the Parks collection is another document that doesn't have as much historical significance – but it got my attention. It's a pancake recipe, written on the back of an envelope.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At first glance, Parks' recipe for \"Featherlite Pancakes\" seems little more than a charming footnote, especially because of the novelty of including peanut butter in pancake batter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But as we find in this week's episode of \u003ca href=\"http://www.sporkful.com\">The Sporkful food podcast\u003c/a>, this recipe is actually a window into a time and place, and a person most of us know little about.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ciframe src=\"https://art19.com/shows/the-sporkful/episodes/4895bff0-f8ca-4e7b-b8f2-64784c9df090/embed?theme=dark-custom\" style=\"width: 100%; height: 200px; border: 0 none;\" scrolling=\"no\">\u003c/iframe>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We have all these misconceptions about [Rosa Parks],\" says food writer \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodculturist.com/\">Nicole Taylor\u003c/a>, author of \u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Up-South-Cookbook-Chasing-Brooklyn/dp/1581573014\">\u003cem>The Up South Cookbook\u003c/em>\u003c/a>. \"She's human. And the pancakes are the most human thing.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What's in an envelope?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The fact that Parks wrote this recipe on the back of a banking envelope, and that the bank was in Detroit, tells us a lot about her life after Dec. 1, 1955, when she refused to give up her seat on that bus in Montgomery, Ala.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"She had lost her job for taking the stand that she did,\" explains Adrienne Cannon, who curates the \u003ca href=\"https://www.loc.gov/collections/rosa-parks-papers/about-this-collection/\">Rosa Parks papers\u003c/a> at the Library of Congress. \"Both she and her husband were receiving death threats. And she was struggling to find gainful employment again.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This discrimination eventually forced Parks and her husband to move to Detroit, where she'd end up spending more than half her life. They always struggled financially and she had to be frugal, which is why she reused papers, like banking envelopes, for recipes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>A 'quintessentially African-American' recipe\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I brought a copy of the recipe to Detroit and showed it to Rosa Parks' niece, Sheila McCauley Keys, she was surprised: \"Why would you put peanut butter in pancakes?\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Food writer Nicole Taylor had a similar reaction. \"Adding peanut butter into a pancake mix, you don't see that a lot,\" she says. \"But then the Tuskegee thing.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117083\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/rosaparks_custom-8b9908a8e1495eb047e72ca5dbae721b05981e11-1020x1818.jpg\" alt=\"Rosa Parks' "Featherlite Pancakes" recipe calls for peanut butter.\" width=\"640\" height=\"1141\" class=\"size-large wp-image-117083\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/rosaparks_custom-8b9908a8e1495eb047e72ca5dbae721b05981e11-1020x1818.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/rosaparks_custom-8b9908a8e1495eb047e72ca5dbae721b05981e11-160x285.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/rosaparks_custom-8b9908a8e1495eb047e72ca5dbae721b05981e11-800x1426.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/rosaparks_custom-8b9908a8e1495eb047e72ca5dbae721b05981e11-768x1369.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/rosaparks_custom-8b9908a8e1495eb047e72ca5dbae721b05981e11-1180x2103.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/rosaparks_custom-8b9908a8e1495eb047e72ca5dbae721b05981e11-960x1711.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/rosaparks_custom-8b9908a8e1495eb047e72ca5dbae721b05981e11-240x428.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/rosaparks_custom-8b9908a8e1495eb047e72ca5dbae721b05981e11-375x668.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/rosaparks_custom-8b9908a8e1495eb047e72ca5dbae721b05981e11-520x927.jpg 520w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/rosaparks_custom-8b9908a8e1495eb047e72ca5dbae721b05981e11.jpg 1519w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Rosa Parks' \"Featherlite Pancakes\" recipe calls for peanut butter. \u003ccite>(Library of Congress)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Or as curator Adrienne Cannon calls it, \"the peanut connection.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rosa Parks was born in 1913 in Tuskegee, Ala., home of Tuskegee Institute, where George Washington Carver gained fame for his work with peanuts. His goal was to help black farmers in the South grow a cash crop other than cotton, so they could support themselves better in the years after slavery. By the 1920s Carver was a household name, and by 1940 peanut production was second only to cotton in the South.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the connection between African-American food and peanuts is rooted even deeper. Indigenous to South America, peanuts traveled to the Caribbean and then to Africa, where they were infused into African cuisine. Peanuts came to the American South via the slave trade.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"They were cultivated by African slaves to supplement their diets,\" Cannon explains. \"They were also fed to hogs. But it wasn't really until Carver's publications in the early 20th century that [peanuts] become loved not just by African-Americans but by the rest of the populace.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Neither Cannon nor Taylor had heard of putting peanut butter in pancake batter before seeing Rosa Parks' recipe. But if the idea would come from anywhere, it would be from Southern African-American food traditions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Says Cannon, \"This recipe is quintessentially African-American.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And it's quintessentially Rosa Parks. Not only did she grow up in Alabama at the same time George Washington Carver was doing his work there, but as her niece Deborah Ann Ross told me, \"She loved peanut butter. That's probably what made her write this down.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117091\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/47600v_custom-948b12126de975543691d4e311088ff358250098-s1500-c85.jpg\" alt=\"Rosa Parks with her niece Susan McCauley and family outside the Holly Tree Inn in Hampton, Va., 1989\" width=\"1024\" height=\"699\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117091\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/47600v_custom-948b12126de975543691d4e311088ff358250098-s1500-c85.jpg 1024w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/47600v_custom-948b12126de975543691d4e311088ff358250098-s1500-c85-160x109.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/47600v_custom-948b12126de975543691d4e311088ff358250098-s1500-c85-800x546.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/47600v_custom-948b12126de975543691d4e311088ff358250098-s1500-c85-768x524.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/47600v_custom-948b12126de975543691d4e311088ff358250098-s1500-c85-1020x696.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/47600v_custom-948b12126de975543691d4e311088ff358250098-s1500-c85-960x655.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/47600v_custom-948b12126de975543691d4e311088ff358250098-s1500-c85-240x164.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/47600v_custom-948b12126de975543691d4e311088ff358250098-s1500-c85-375x256.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/47600v_custom-948b12126de975543691d4e311088ff358250098-s1500-c85-520x355.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Rosa Parks with her niece Susan McCauley and family outside the Holly Tree Inn in Hampton, Va., 1989 \u003ccite>(Library of Congress)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Rosa Parks in the kitchen\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Parks and her husband never had kids of their own, but it's clear she loved children. She often cared for, and cooked for, her 11 nieces and nephews. Her niece Sheila McCauley Keys wrote \u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Our-Auntie-Rosa-Remembers-Lessons/dp/1101983205\">a book\u003c/a> that includes many of her \"Auntie Rosa's\" recipes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117085\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1279px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/fullsizerender-7-84c2c010ee2a8874f0949ca05018f499a5a7453a.jpg\" alt=\"Rosa Parks' nieces Sheila McCauley Keys and Deborah Ann Ross (center) with the author, Dan Pashman.\" width=\"1279\" height=\"959\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117085\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/fullsizerender-7-84c2c010ee2a8874f0949ca05018f499a5a7453a.jpg 1279w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/fullsizerender-7-84c2c010ee2a8874f0949ca05018f499a5a7453a-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/fullsizerender-7-84c2c010ee2a8874f0949ca05018f499a5a7453a-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/fullsizerender-7-84c2c010ee2a8874f0949ca05018f499a5a7453a-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/fullsizerender-7-84c2c010ee2a8874f0949ca05018f499a5a7453a-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/fullsizerender-7-84c2c010ee2a8874f0949ca05018f499a5a7453a-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/fullsizerender-7-84c2c010ee2a8874f0949ca05018f499a5a7453a-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/fullsizerender-7-84c2c010ee2a8874f0949ca05018f499a5a7453a-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/fullsizerender-7-84c2c010ee2a8874f0949ca05018f499a5a7453a-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/fullsizerender-7-84c2c010ee2a8874f0949ca05018f499a5a7453a-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1279px) 100vw, 1279px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Rosa Parks' nieces Sheila McCauley Keys and Deborah Ann Ross (center) with the author, Dan Pashman. \u003ccite>(Dan Pashman for NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>When I visited Keys and Ross in Detroit for this episode of \u003cem>The Sporkful\u003c/em> podcast, they cooked up several of their aunt's recipes — chicken and dumplings, cornbread griddle cakes, cabbage and bacon, and lemonade.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Auntie Rosa's lemonade involved simmering the lemons in water for 30 minutes, which on a hot day could feel like a long time to wait for a drink.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"She would be in that kitchen, and you were not invited in,\" recalls Keys. \"You would just hear pots and pans. But eventually, when it came out, it was the best thing ever.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As Nicole Taylor and I cooked those peanut butter pancakes, we found ourselves thinking a lot about what it might've been like to cook with Rosa Parks. Did she wear her usual formal outfit in the kitchen, or something more comfortable? Which brand of flour did she prefer? And would she approve of putting buttermilk, instead of milk, in the batter, as Nicole did?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One thing was for sure: When we took our first bites, we found the pancakes were true to their name – featherlite.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117086\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1631px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/img_5562-9017824300ac854941e1b9d974d130fc462cdea6.jpg\" alt=\"While making the peanut butter pancakes, food writer Nicole Taylor and I imagined what it would be like to cook with Rosa Parks.\" width=\"1631\" height=\"1223\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117086\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/img_5562-9017824300ac854941e1b9d974d130fc462cdea6.jpg 1631w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/img_5562-9017824300ac854941e1b9d974d130fc462cdea6-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/img_5562-9017824300ac854941e1b9d974d130fc462cdea6-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/img_5562-9017824300ac854941e1b9d974d130fc462cdea6-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/img_5562-9017824300ac854941e1b9d974d130fc462cdea6-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/img_5562-9017824300ac854941e1b9d974d130fc462cdea6-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/img_5562-9017824300ac854941e1b9d974d130fc462cdea6-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/img_5562-9017824300ac854941e1b9d974d130fc462cdea6-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/img_5562-9017824300ac854941e1b9d974d130fc462cdea6-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/img_5562-9017824300ac854941e1b9d974d130fc462cdea6-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1631px) 100vw, 1631px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">While making the peanut butter pancakes, food writer Nicole Taylor and I imagined what it would be like to cook with Rosa Parks. \u003ccite>(Dan Pashman for NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"You can taste the peanut butter. The peanut butter really hits the back [of your tongue] quickly,\" says Taylor. \"I've had two bites without syrup. That says a lot.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It makes me look at [Rosa Parks] as more of a 'normal person,' \" Taylor says of making and eating the pancakes. \"She had to eat. She wasn't just this person who was all about the civil rights movement. She cared about nurturing and feeding her family. The pancake recipe makes me feel closer to her.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Dan Pashman is the James Beard Award-nominated host of \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"http://www.sporkful.com\">\u003cem>The Sporkful podcast\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem>, which is available in \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/the-sporkful/id350709629\">\u003cem>Apple Podcasts\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem>, \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"http://www.stitcher.com/podcast/stitcher/the-sporkful\">\u003cem>Stitcher\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem>, or wherever you get your podcasts.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "'Paradise Lost': How The Apple Became The Forbidden Fruit",
"title": "'Paradise Lost': How The Apple Became The Forbidden Fruit",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>This month marks 350 years since John Milton sold his publisher the copyright of \u003cem>Paradise Lost \u003c/em>for the sum of five pounds.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>His great work dramatizes the oldest story in the Bible, whose principal characters we know only too well: God, Adam, Eve, Satan in the form of a talking snake — and an apple.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Except, of course, that Genesis never names the apple but simply refers to \"the fruit.\" To quote from the King James Bible:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>And the woman said to the serpent, \"We may eat the fruit of the trees of the garden; but of the fruit of the tree which is in the midst of the garden, God has said, 'You shall not eat it, nor shall you touch it, lest you die.'\"\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\"Fruit\" is also the word Milton employs in the poem's sonorous opening lines:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Of Mans First Disobedience, and the Fruit\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Of that Forbidden Tree, whose mortal taste\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Brought Death into the World, and all our woe\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>But in the course of his over-10,000-line poem, Milton names the fruit twice, explicitly calling it an apple. So how did the apple become the guilty fruit that brought death into this world and all our woe?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The short and unexpected answer is: a Latin pun.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In order to explain, we have to go all the way back to the fourth century A.D., when Pope Damasus ordered his leading scholar of scripture, Jerome, to translate the Hebrew Bible into Latin. Jerome's path-breaking, 15-year project, which resulted in the canonical \u003cem>Vulgate, \u003c/em>used the Latin spoken by the common man. As it turned out, the Latin words for evil and apple are the same: malus.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the Hebrew Bible, a generic term, \u003cem>peri\u003c/em>, is used for the fruit hanging from the Tree of the Knowledge of Good and Evil, explains Robert Appelbaum, who discusses the biblical provenance of the apple in his book \u003cem>Aguecheek's Beef, Belch's Hiccup, and Other Gastronomic Interjections. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Peri could be absolutely any fruit,\" he says. \"Rabbinic commentators variously characterized it as a fig, a pomegranate, a grape, an apricot, a citron, or even wheat. Some commentators even thought of the forbidden fruit as a kind of wine, intoxicating to drink.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117034\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 987px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/michelangelo_su-ndenfall_custom-75a1def1ba3fc8edaa8a96c81853c04e62b764af-s1500-c85.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/michelangelo_su-ndenfall_custom-75a1def1ba3fc8edaa8a96c81853c04e62b764af-s1500-c85.jpg\" alt=\"A detail of Michelangelo's fresco in the Vatican's Sistine Chapel depicting the Fall of Man and expulsion from the Garden of Eden\" width=\"987\" height=\"460\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117034\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/michelangelo_su-ndenfall_custom-75a1def1ba3fc8edaa8a96c81853c04e62b764af-s1500-c85.jpg 987w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/michelangelo_su-ndenfall_custom-75a1def1ba3fc8edaa8a96c81853c04e62b764af-s1500-c85-160x75.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/michelangelo_su-ndenfall_custom-75a1def1ba3fc8edaa8a96c81853c04e62b764af-s1500-c85-800x373.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/michelangelo_su-ndenfall_custom-75a1def1ba3fc8edaa8a96c81853c04e62b764af-s1500-c85-768x358.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/michelangelo_su-ndenfall_custom-75a1def1ba3fc8edaa8a96c81853c04e62b764af-s1500-c85-960x447.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/michelangelo_su-ndenfall_custom-75a1def1ba3fc8edaa8a96c81853c04e62b764af-s1500-c85-240x112.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/michelangelo_su-ndenfall_custom-75a1def1ba3fc8edaa8a96c81853c04e62b764af-s1500-c85-375x175.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/michelangelo_su-ndenfall_custom-75a1def1ba3fc8edaa8a96c81853c04e62b764af-s1500-c85-520x242.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 987px) 100vw, 987px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A detail of Michelangelo's fresco in the Vatican's Sistine Chapel depicting the Fall of Man and expulsion from the Garden of Eden \u003ccite>(Wikipedia)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>When Jerome was translating the \"Tree of the Knowledge of Good and Evil,\" the word \u003cem>malus \u003c/em>snaked in. A brilliant but controversial theologian, Jerome was known for his hot temper, but he obviously also had a rather cool sense of humor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Jerome had several options,\" says Appelbaum, a professor of English literature at Sweden's Uppsala University. \"But he hit upon the idea of translating \u003cem>peri\u003c/em> as \u003cem>malus\u003c/em>, which in Latin has two very different meanings. As an adjective, \u003cem>malus\u003c/em> means bad or evil. As a noun it seems to means an apple, in our own sense of the word, coming from the very common tree now known officially as the \u003cem>Malus pumila\u003c/em>. So Jerome came up with a very good pun.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The story doesn't end there. \"To complicate things even more,\" says Appelbaum, \"the word \u003cem>malus\u003c/em> in Jerome's time, and for a long time after, could refer to any fleshy seed-bearing fruit. A pear was a kind of \u003cem>malus.\u003c/em> So was the fig, the peach, and so forth.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Which explains why Michelangelo's Sistine Chapel fresco features a serpent coiled around a fig tree. But the apple began to dominate Fall artworks in Europe after the German artist Albrecht Dürer's famous 1504 engraving depicted the First Couple counterpoised beside an apple tree. It became a template for future artists such as Lucas Cranach the Elder, whose luminous \u003cem>Adam and Eve\u003c/em> painting is hung with apples that glow like rubies.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117035\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 600px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/lucas_cranach_the_elder_-_adam_und_eva_im_paradies_-su-ndenfall-_-_google_art_project_custom-2a6ba2ef87467f1e7e8d41d9b11d05c6d44ce118-s600-c85.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/lucas_cranach_the_elder_-_adam_und_eva_im_paradies_-su-ndenfall-_-_google_art_project_custom-2a6ba2ef87467f1e7e8d41d9b11d05c6d44ce118-s600-c85.jpg\" alt=\"Eve giving Adam the forbidden fruit, by Lucas Cranach the Elder.\" width=\"600\" height=\"883\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117035\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/lucas_cranach_the_elder_-_adam_und_eva_im_paradies_-su-ndenfall-_-_google_art_project_custom-2a6ba2ef87467f1e7e8d41d9b11d05c6d44ce118-s600-c85.jpg 600w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/lucas_cranach_the_elder_-_adam_und_eva_im_paradies_-su-ndenfall-_-_google_art_project_custom-2a6ba2ef87467f1e7e8d41d9b11d05c6d44ce118-s600-c85-160x235.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/lucas_cranach_the_elder_-_adam_und_eva_im_paradies_-su-ndenfall-_-_google_art_project_custom-2a6ba2ef87467f1e7e8d41d9b11d05c6d44ce118-s600-c85-240x353.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/lucas_cranach_the_elder_-_adam_und_eva_im_paradies_-su-ndenfall-_-_google_art_project_custom-2a6ba2ef87467f1e7e8d41d9b11d05c6d44ce118-s600-c85-375x552.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/lucas_cranach_the_elder_-_adam_und_eva_im_paradies_-su-ndenfall-_-_google_art_project_custom-2a6ba2ef87467f1e7e8d41d9b11d05c6d44ce118-s600-c85-520x765.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Eve giving Adam the forbidden fruit, by Lucas Cranach the Elder. \u003ccite>(Wikipedia)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Milton, then, was only following cultural tradition. But he was a renowned Cambridge intellectual fluent in Latin, Greek and Hebrew, who served as secretary for foreign tongues to Oliver Cromwell during the Commonwealth. If anyone was aware of the \u003cem>malus\u003c/em> pun, it would be him. And yet he chose to run it with it. Why?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Appelbaum says that Milton's use of the term \"apple\" was ambiguous. \"Even in Milton's time the word had two meanings: either what was our common apple, or, again, any fleshy seed-bearing fruit. Milton probably had in mind an ambiguously named object with a variety of connotations as well as denotations, most but not all of them associating the idea of the apple with a kind of innocence, though also with a kind of intoxication, since hard apple cider was a common English drink.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was only later readers of Milton, says Appelbaum, who thought of \"apple\" as \"apple\" and not any seed-bearing fruit. For them, the forbidden fruit became synonymous with the \u003cem>malus pumila. \u003c/em>As a widely read canonical work, \u003cem>Paradise Lost\u003c/em> was influential in cementing the role of apple in the Fall story.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But whether the forbidden fruit was an apple, fig, peach, pomegranate or something completely different, it is worth revisiting the temptation scene \u003ca href=\"https://www.dartmouth.edu/~milton/reading_room/pl/book_9/text.shtml\">in Book 9 of \u003cem>Paradise Lost\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem>,\u003c/em> both as an homage to Milton (who composed his masterpiece when he was blind, impoverished and in the doghouse for his regicidal politics) and simply to savor the sublime beauty of the language. Thomas Jefferson loved this poem. With its superfood dietary advice, celebration of the 'self-help is the best help' ideal, and presence of a snake-oil salesman, \u003cem>Paradise Los\u003c/em>t is a quintessentially American story, although composed more than a century before the United States was founded.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What makes the temptation scene so absorbing and enjoyable is that, although written in archaic English, it is speckled with mundane details that make the reader stop in surprise.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Take, for instance, the serpent's impeccably timed gustatory seduction. It takes place not at any old time of the day but at lunchtime:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003cp>\"\u003cem>Mean while the hour of Noon drew on, and wak'd/ An eager appetite.\"\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cem> \u003c/em>What a canny and charmingly human detail. Milton builds on it by lingeringly conjuring the aroma of apples, knowing full well that an \"ambrosial smell\" can madden an empty stomach to action. The fruit's \"savorie odour,\" rhapsodizes the snake, is more pleasing to the senses than the scent of the teats of an ewe or goat dropping with unsuckled milk at evening. Today's Food Network impresarios, with their overblown praise and frantic similes, couldn't dream up anything close to that peculiarly sensuous comparison.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It is easy to imagine the scene. Eve, curious, credulous and peckish, gazes longingly at the contraband \"Ruddie and Gold\" fruit while the unctuous snake-oil salesman murmurs his encouragement. Initially, she hangs back, suspicious of his \"overpraising.\" But soon she begins to cave: How can a fruit so \"Fair to the Eye, inviting to the Taste,\" be evil? Surely it is the opposite, its \"sciental sap\" must be the source of divine knowledge. The serpent must speak true.\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>So saying, her rash hand in evil hour \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Forth reaching to the Fruit, she pluck'd, she eat:\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Earth felt the wound, and Nature from her seat\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Sighing through all her Works gave signs of woe,\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>That all was lost. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>But Eve is insensible to the cosmic disappointment her lunch has caused. Sated and intoxicated as if with wine, she bows low before \"O Sovran, vertuous, precious of all Trees,\" and hurries forth with \"a bough of fairest fruit\" to her beloved Adam, that he too might eat and aspire to godhead. Their shared meal, foreshadowed as it is by expulsion and doom, is a moving and poignant tableau of marital bliss.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, the serpent, its mission accomplished, slinks into the gloom. Satan heads eagerly toward a gathering of fellow devils, where he boasts that the Fall of Man has been wrought by something as ridiculous as \"an apple.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Except that it was a fig or a peach or a pear. An ancient Roman punned – and the apple myth was born.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://ninamartyris.pressfolios.com/\">Nina Martyris\u003c/a> is a freelance journalist based in Knoxville, Tenn.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Some 350 years ago, Milton's epic chronicled the Fall of Man, wrought by the red fruit. Except that it might've been a fig or peach or pear. An ancient Roman made a pun – and the apple myth was born.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>This month marks 350 years since John Milton sold his publisher the copyright of \u003cem>Paradise Lost \u003c/em>for the sum of five pounds.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>His great work dramatizes the oldest story in the Bible, whose principal characters we know only too well: God, Adam, Eve, Satan in the form of a talking snake — and an apple.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Except, of course, that Genesis never names the apple but simply refers to \"the fruit.\" To quote from the King James Bible:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>And the woman said to the serpent, \"We may eat the fruit of the trees of the garden; but of the fruit of the tree which is in the midst of the garden, God has said, 'You shall not eat it, nor shall you touch it, lest you die.'\"\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\"Fruit\" is also the word Milton employs in the poem's sonorous opening lines:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Of Mans First Disobedience, and the Fruit\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Of that Forbidden Tree, whose mortal taste\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Brought Death into the World, and all our woe\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>But in the course of his over-10,000-line poem, Milton names the fruit twice, explicitly calling it an apple. So how did the apple become the guilty fruit that brought death into this world and all our woe?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The short and unexpected answer is: a Latin pun.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In order to explain, we have to go all the way back to the fourth century A.D., when Pope Damasus ordered his leading scholar of scripture, Jerome, to translate the Hebrew Bible into Latin. Jerome's path-breaking, 15-year project, which resulted in the canonical \u003cem>Vulgate, \u003c/em>used the Latin spoken by the common man. As it turned out, the Latin words for evil and apple are the same: malus.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the Hebrew Bible, a generic term, \u003cem>peri\u003c/em>, is used for the fruit hanging from the Tree of the Knowledge of Good and Evil, explains Robert Appelbaum, who discusses the biblical provenance of the apple in his book \u003cem>Aguecheek's Beef, Belch's Hiccup, and Other Gastronomic Interjections. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Peri could be absolutely any fruit,\" he says. \"Rabbinic commentators variously characterized it as a fig, a pomegranate, a grape, an apricot, a citron, or even wheat. Some commentators even thought of the forbidden fruit as a kind of wine, intoxicating to drink.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117034\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 987px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/michelangelo_su-ndenfall_custom-75a1def1ba3fc8edaa8a96c81853c04e62b764af-s1500-c85.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/michelangelo_su-ndenfall_custom-75a1def1ba3fc8edaa8a96c81853c04e62b764af-s1500-c85.jpg\" alt=\"A detail of Michelangelo's fresco in the Vatican's Sistine Chapel depicting the Fall of Man and expulsion from the Garden of Eden\" width=\"987\" height=\"460\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117034\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/michelangelo_su-ndenfall_custom-75a1def1ba3fc8edaa8a96c81853c04e62b764af-s1500-c85.jpg 987w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/michelangelo_su-ndenfall_custom-75a1def1ba3fc8edaa8a96c81853c04e62b764af-s1500-c85-160x75.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/michelangelo_su-ndenfall_custom-75a1def1ba3fc8edaa8a96c81853c04e62b764af-s1500-c85-800x373.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/michelangelo_su-ndenfall_custom-75a1def1ba3fc8edaa8a96c81853c04e62b764af-s1500-c85-768x358.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/michelangelo_su-ndenfall_custom-75a1def1ba3fc8edaa8a96c81853c04e62b764af-s1500-c85-960x447.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/michelangelo_su-ndenfall_custom-75a1def1ba3fc8edaa8a96c81853c04e62b764af-s1500-c85-240x112.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/michelangelo_su-ndenfall_custom-75a1def1ba3fc8edaa8a96c81853c04e62b764af-s1500-c85-375x175.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/michelangelo_su-ndenfall_custom-75a1def1ba3fc8edaa8a96c81853c04e62b764af-s1500-c85-520x242.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 987px) 100vw, 987px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A detail of Michelangelo's fresco in the Vatican's Sistine Chapel depicting the Fall of Man and expulsion from the Garden of Eden \u003ccite>(Wikipedia)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>When Jerome was translating the \"Tree of the Knowledge of Good and Evil,\" the word \u003cem>malus \u003c/em>snaked in. A brilliant but controversial theologian, Jerome was known for his hot temper, but he obviously also had a rather cool sense of humor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Jerome had several options,\" says Appelbaum, a professor of English literature at Sweden's Uppsala University. \"But he hit upon the idea of translating \u003cem>peri\u003c/em> as \u003cem>malus\u003c/em>, which in Latin has two very different meanings. As an adjective, \u003cem>malus\u003c/em> means bad or evil. As a noun it seems to means an apple, in our own sense of the word, coming from the very common tree now known officially as the \u003cem>Malus pumila\u003c/em>. So Jerome came up with a very good pun.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The story doesn't end there. \"To complicate things even more,\" says Appelbaum, \"the word \u003cem>malus\u003c/em> in Jerome's time, and for a long time after, could refer to any fleshy seed-bearing fruit. A pear was a kind of \u003cem>malus.\u003c/em> So was the fig, the peach, and so forth.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Which explains why Michelangelo's Sistine Chapel fresco features a serpent coiled around a fig tree. But the apple began to dominate Fall artworks in Europe after the German artist Albrecht Dürer's famous 1504 engraving depicted the First Couple counterpoised beside an apple tree. It became a template for future artists such as Lucas Cranach the Elder, whose luminous \u003cem>Adam and Eve\u003c/em> painting is hung with apples that glow like rubies.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117035\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 600px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/lucas_cranach_the_elder_-_adam_und_eva_im_paradies_-su-ndenfall-_-_google_art_project_custom-2a6ba2ef87467f1e7e8d41d9b11d05c6d44ce118-s600-c85.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/lucas_cranach_the_elder_-_adam_und_eva_im_paradies_-su-ndenfall-_-_google_art_project_custom-2a6ba2ef87467f1e7e8d41d9b11d05c6d44ce118-s600-c85.jpg\" alt=\"Eve giving Adam the forbidden fruit, by Lucas Cranach the Elder.\" width=\"600\" height=\"883\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117035\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/lucas_cranach_the_elder_-_adam_und_eva_im_paradies_-su-ndenfall-_-_google_art_project_custom-2a6ba2ef87467f1e7e8d41d9b11d05c6d44ce118-s600-c85.jpg 600w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/lucas_cranach_the_elder_-_adam_und_eva_im_paradies_-su-ndenfall-_-_google_art_project_custom-2a6ba2ef87467f1e7e8d41d9b11d05c6d44ce118-s600-c85-160x235.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/lucas_cranach_the_elder_-_adam_und_eva_im_paradies_-su-ndenfall-_-_google_art_project_custom-2a6ba2ef87467f1e7e8d41d9b11d05c6d44ce118-s600-c85-240x353.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/lucas_cranach_the_elder_-_adam_und_eva_im_paradies_-su-ndenfall-_-_google_art_project_custom-2a6ba2ef87467f1e7e8d41d9b11d05c6d44ce118-s600-c85-375x552.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/lucas_cranach_the_elder_-_adam_und_eva_im_paradies_-su-ndenfall-_-_google_art_project_custom-2a6ba2ef87467f1e7e8d41d9b11d05c6d44ce118-s600-c85-520x765.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Eve giving Adam the forbidden fruit, by Lucas Cranach the Elder. \u003ccite>(Wikipedia)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Milton, then, was only following cultural tradition. But he was a renowned Cambridge intellectual fluent in Latin, Greek and Hebrew, who served as secretary for foreign tongues to Oliver Cromwell during the Commonwealth. If anyone was aware of the \u003cem>malus\u003c/em> pun, it would be him. And yet he chose to run it with it. Why?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Appelbaum says that Milton's use of the term \"apple\" was ambiguous. \"Even in Milton's time the word had two meanings: either what was our common apple, or, again, any fleshy seed-bearing fruit. Milton probably had in mind an ambiguously named object with a variety of connotations as well as denotations, most but not all of them associating the idea of the apple with a kind of innocence, though also with a kind of intoxication, since hard apple cider was a common English drink.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was only later readers of Milton, says Appelbaum, who thought of \"apple\" as \"apple\" and not any seed-bearing fruit. For them, the forbidden fruit became synonymous with the \u003cem>malus pumila. \u003c/em>As a widely read canonical work, \u003cem>Paradise Lost\u003c/em> was influential in cementing the role of apple in the Fall story.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But whether the forbidden fruit was an apple, fig, peach, pomegranate or something completely different, it is worth revisiting the temptation scene \u003ca href=\"https://www.dartmouth.edu/~milton/reading_room/pl/book_9/text.shtml\">in Book 9 of \u003cem>Paradise Lost\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem>,\u003c/em> both as an homage to Milton (who composed his masterpiece when he was blind, impoverished and in the doghouse for his regicidal politics) and simply to savor the sublime beauty of the language. Thomas Jefferson loved this poem. With its superfood dietary advice, celebration of the 'self-help is the best help' ideal, and presence of a snake-oil salesman, \u003cem>Paradise Los\u003c/em>t is a quintessentially American story, although composed more than a century before the United States was founded.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What makes the temptation scene so absorbing and enjoyable is that, although written in archaic English, it is speckled with mundane details that make the reader stop in surprise.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Take, for instance, the serpent's impeccably timed gustatory seduction. It takes place not at any old time of the day but at lunchtime:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003cp>\"\u003cem>Mean while the hour of Noon drew on, and wak'd/ An eager appetite.\"\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cem> \u003c/em>What a canny and charmingly human detail. Milton builds on it by lingeringly conjuring the aroma of apples, knowing full well that an \"ambrosial smell\" can madden an empty stomach to action. The fruit's \"savorie odour,\" rhapsodizes the snake, is more pleasing to the senses than the scent of the teats of an ewe or goat dropping with unsuckled milk at evening. Today's Food Network impresarios, with their overblown praise and frantic similes, couldn't dream up anything close to that peculiarly sensuous comparison.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It is easy to imagine the scene. Eve, curious, credulous and peckish, gazes longingly at the contraband \"Ruddie and Gold\" fruit while the unctuous snake-oil salesman murmurs his encouragement. Initially, she hangs back, suspicious of his \"overpraising.\" But soon she begins to cave: How can a fruit so \"Fair to the Eye, inviting to the Taste,\" be evil? Surely it is the opposite, its \"sciental sap\" must be the source of divine knowledge. The serpent must speak true.\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>So saying, her rash hand in evil hour \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Forth reaching to the Fruit, she pluck'd, she eat:\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Earth felt the wound, and Nature from her seat\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Sighing through all her Works gave signs of woe,\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>That all was lost. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>But Eve is insensible to the cosmic disappointment her lunch has caused. Sated and intoxicated as if with wine, she bows low before \"O Sovran, vertuous, precious of all Trees,\" and hurries forth with \"a bough of fairest fruit\" to her beloved Adam, that he too might eat and aspire to godhead. Their shared meal, foreshadowed as it is by expulsion and doom, is a moving and poignant tableau of marital bliss.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, the serpent, its mission accomplished, slinks into the gloom. Satan heads eagerly toward a gathering of fellow devils, where he boasts that the Fall of Man has been wrought by something as ridiculous as \"an apple.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Except that it was a fig or a peach or a pear. An ancient Roman punned – and the apple myth was born.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://ninamartyris.pressfolios.com/\">Nina Martyris\u003c/a> is a freelance journalist based in Knoxville, Tenn.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "Can The Perennial Plate Change Your Mind Through Your Facebook Newsfeed?",
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"content": "\u003cp>As the election results started trickling in last November, Daniel Klein started thinking about how he could make a difference. He knew that whatever he did would likely involve filmmaking. Since 2009, he and his wife Mirra Fine had produced the \u003ca href=\"http://www.theperennialplate.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Perennial Plate\u003c/a>, whose weekly episodes explored sustainable eating through the lens of a variety of food professionals, like a Sri Lankan tea farmer or a Spanish duck farmer producing humane foie gras. The show was a success, earning a robust following and two James Beard Awards. But after the election, Klein wanted to reach a different audience: “How do we not just make these films to make ourselves feel good?” he asked himself. “How are we actually going to make them effective in changing hearts and minds?”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116832\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-116832\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/8448182199_3b527d6ae9_o.jpg\" alt=\"A still from a Perennial Plate episode set in China.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/8448182199_3b527d6ae9_o.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/8448182199_3b527d6ae9_o-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/8448182199_3b527d6ae9_o-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/8448182199_3b527d6ae9_o-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/8448182199_3b527d6ae9_o-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/8448182199_3b527d6ae9_o-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/8448182199_3b527d6ae9_o-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/8448182199_3b527d6ae9_o-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/8448182199_3b527d6ae9_o-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/8448182199_3b527d6ae9_o-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A still from a Perennial Plate episode set in China. \u003ccite>(The Perennial Plate )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As Klein read election post-mortems, one thing kept sticking out. Many pundits seized upon fake news on Facebook as a major factor in President Trump’s unexpected victory--a \u003ca href=\"http://graphics.wsj.com/blue-feed-red-feed/\" target=\"_blank\">popular \u003cem>Wall Street Journal\u003c/em> graphic\u003c/a> demonstrated the schism between news stories that appeared on liberal newsfeeds (pieces on how much undocumented immigrants contribute in taxes, “The Best Science Shows That Guns Do Not Save Lives”) and their conservative counterparts (stories on why Canada’s welcome of Muslim immigrants is a bad idea, a “GUN CONTROL FAIL”). Klein had an idea. What if he and Fine harnessed the power of Facebook’s targeted advertising, a key ingredient to so-called “fake news,” and used it for good?\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116834\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-116834\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/34006471715_49aa192054_o.jpg\" alt=\"The Perennial Plate team, from left: James Klein, Mirra Fine, Daniel Klein and Hunter Johnson.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1268\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/34006471715_49aa192054_o.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/34006471715_49aa192054_o-160x106.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/34006471715_49aa192054_o-800x528.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/34006471715_49aa192054_o-768x507.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/34006471715_49aa192054_o-1020x674.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/34006471715_49aa192054_o-1180x779.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/34006471715_49aa192054_o-960x634.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/34006471715_49aa192054_o-240x159.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/34006471715_49aa192054_o-375x248.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/34006471715_49aa192054_o-520x343.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Perennial Plate team, from left: James Klein, Mirra Fine, Daniel Klein and Hunter Johnson. \u003ccite>(The Perennial Plate )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>That’s the idea behind their new project, “\u003ca href=\"https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/588580164/resistance-through-storytelling\" target=\"_blank\">Resistance Through Storytelling\u003c/a>.” Klein, Fine and filmmaker Hunter Johnson plan to create short documentaries about five different immigrant or refugee families across the United States, centered around a cross-generational family dinner where each member discusses their immigration experience. The team will then distribute the films through Facebook’s hyper-stratified targeting options, aiming for moderate voters in swing states--selecting, say, people who live in Wisconsin and like the Packers--to combat what Klein calls the “anti-immigration echo chamber” in some newsfeeds.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://vimeo.com/210462526\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Almost every undocumented immigrant [coming] to this country is just looking for a better life, and refugees--who suffer more than pretty much anybody on the planet--are also looking for that opportunity,” he said. “We want people to think about how we’re all connected in the United States, and stray from the policies the government is putting in place that are pulling us apart, rather than bringing us together.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Almost every culture has a tradition of family meals, Klein points out. “By telling these personal, beautiful and inspiring stories, I think there’s an opportunity to get someone to have a little different perspective on one family or a group of people or culture,” he said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116836\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-116836\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/Screen-Shot-2017-03-22-at-9.47.25-PM.jpg\" alt=\"The breakdown of how the team will spend their Kickstarter funding.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1076\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/Screen-Shot-2017-03-22-at-9.47.25-PM.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/Screen-Shot-2017-03-22-at-9.47.25-PM-160x90.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/Screen-Shot-2017-03-22-at-9.47.25-PM-800x448.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/Screen-Shot-2017-03-22-at-9.47.25-PM-768x430.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/Screen-Shot-2017-03-22-at-9.47.25-PM-1020x572.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/Screen-Shot-2017-03-22-at-9.47.25-PM-1180x661.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/Screen-Shot-2017-03-22-at-9.47.25-PM-960x538.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/Screen-Shot-2017-03-22-at-9.47.25-PM-240x135.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/Screen-Shot-2017-03-22-at-9.47.25-PM-375x210.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/Screen-Shot-2017-03-22-at-9.47.25-PM-520x291.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The breakdown of how the team will spend their Kickstarter funding. \u003ccite>(The Perennial Plate )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>It’s an ambitious project. Klein and his team are asking $50,000 from \u003ca href=\"https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/588580164/resistance-through-storytelling\" target=\"_blank\">their Kickstarter\u003c/a>: half for the filmmaking and half for their Facebook advertising budget. They’ve currently raised more than half, but still need to raise the rest before their deadline on April 27. It’s a more expensive and overtly political venture than the Perennial Plate, but Klein believes it’s worth it to to break up newsfeeds featuring the same narrative. That homogeneity in news sources is what got us into this mess, he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“When you are in a bubble, you tend to stick with the people around you, with the influences you have,” he said. “If your Facebook feed is anything like mine, [it’s] a constant bombardment of ideas that ring true to what I already believe instead of trying to expand my horizons.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Klein isn’t sure what families he’ll be featuring. He’s looking into families in California, in places like the Bay Area, to get the perspective of families living in sanctuary cities. Klein and Fine live in Minnesota, home to the \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_the_Somalis_in_Minneapolis%E2%80%93Saint_Paul\" target=\"_blank\">largest concentration\u003c/a> of Somali immigrants in the US, and they’d like to show how Trump’s travel ban and deportation threats (ICE currently plans to \u003ca href=\"http://www.newsweek.com/4000-somalis-deportation-us-ambassador-581498\" target=\"_blank\">deport about 4,000 Somali immigrants\u003c/a>) are affecting the population. The project’s aesthetics will likely change and shift over time, but there’s one thing that Klein is already sure of: the tone of the films.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116830\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-116830\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/8435524233_749cca97ad_k.jpg\" alt=\"Fine and Klein in Gujarat, India.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/8435524233_749cca97ad_k.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/8435524233_749cca97ad_k-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/8435524233_749cca97ad_k-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/8435524233_749cca97ad_k-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/8435524233_749cca97ad_k-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/8435524233_749cca97ad_k-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/8435524233_749cca97ad_k-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/8435524233_749cca97ad_k-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/8435524233_749cca97ad_k-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/8435524233_749cca97ad_k-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fine and Klein in Gujarat, India. \u003ccite>(The Perennial Plate)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>He doesn’t want to play the part of the smug liberal, lecturing people about how they should vote. His main goal, he says, is to show viewers that immigrants share the same traits that Americans, particularly conservative Americans, value: things like hard work, loyalty and family. There are lots of people who have never met an immigrant or refugee, whose opinions on immigrants are shaped by cable TV pundits or Trump’s \u003ca href=\"https://apnews.com/20cb3e3adefa45eb933a7ac6acc207d6\" target=\"_blank\">preoccupation with crimes committed by immigrants\u003c/a>. The Perennial Plate team aims to present immigrant families as just another neighborhood family, one who bickers and burns food and laughs together the same way the viewer and their family does.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I want people to develop a human connection with someone that they might not normally have,” Klein said. If you’ve never met an immigrant from Somalia or Mexico, and all you know is that they’re \u003ca href=\"https://assets.donaldjtrump.com/Immigration-Reform-Trump.pdf\" target=\"_blank\">committing crimes and taking our jobs\u003c/a>, Klein hopes his films might change your attitude. “Suddenly you see a film [and] you really like this person's personality, and just thinking a little bit differently about [immigration], that’s all we can really hope for. We hope that spirals into a different way of thinking about the way our government approaches those groups of people.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Change is oftentimes pretty vague,” Klein added. “For us, it’s about doing the little piece that we can, and in our case, what we can do is tell stories. And stories are very powerful.”\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>As the election results started trickling in last November, Daniel Klein started thinking about how he could make a difference. He knew that whatever he did would likely involve filmmaking. Since 2009, he and his wife Mirra Fine had produced the \u003ca href=\"http://www.theperennialplate.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Perennial Plate\u003c/a>, whose weekly episodes explored sustainable eating through the lens of a variety of food professionals, like a Sri Lankan tea farmer or a Spanish duck farmer producing humane foie gras. The show was a success, earning a robust following and two James Beard Awards. But after the election, Klein wanted to reach a different audience: “How do we not just make these films to make ourselves feel good?” he asked himself. “How are we actually going to make them effective in changing hearts and minds?”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116832\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-116832\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/8448182199_3b527d6ae9_o.jpg\" alt=\"A still from a Perennial Plate episode set in China.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/8448182199_3b527d6ae9_o.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/8448182199_3b527d6ae9_o-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/8448182199_3b527d6ae9_o-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/8448182199_3b527d6ae9_o-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/8448182199_3b527d6ae9_o-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/8448182199_3b527d6ae9_o-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/8448182199_3b527d6ae9_o-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/8448182199_3b527d6ae9_o-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/8448182199_3b527d6ae9_o-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/8448182199_3b527d6ae9_o-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A still from a Perennial Plate episode set in China. \u003ccite>(The Perennial Plate )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As Klein read election post-mortems, one thing kept sticking out. Many pundits seized upon fake news on Facebook as a major factor in President Trump’s unexpected victory--a \u003ca href=\"http://graphics.wsj.com/blue-feed-red-feed/\" target=\"_blank\">popular \u003cem>Wall Street Journal\u003c/em> graphic\u003c/a> demonstrated the schism between news stories that appeared on liberal newsfeeds (pieces on how much undocumented immigrants contribute in taxes, “The Best Science Shows That Guns Do Not Save Lives”) and their conservative counterparts (stories on why Canada’s welcome of Muslim immigrants is a bad idea, a “GUN CONTROL FAIL”). Klein had an idea. What if he and Fine harnessed the power of Facebook’s targeted advertising, a key ingredient to so-called “fake news,” and used it for good?\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116834\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-116834\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/34006471715_49aa192054_o.jpg\" alt=\"The Perennial Plate team, from left: James Klein, Mirra Fine, Daniel Klein and Hunter Johnson.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1268\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/34006471715_49aa192054_o.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/34006471715_49aa192054_o-160x106.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/34006471715_49aa192054_o-800x528.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/34006471715_49aa192054_o-768x507.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/34006471715_49aa192054_o-1020x674.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/34006471715_49aa192054_o-1180x779.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/34006471715_49aa192054_o-960x634.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/34006471715_49aa192054_o-240x159.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/34006471715_49aa192054_o-375x248.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/34006471715_49aa192054_o-520x343.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Perennial Plate team, from left: James Klein, Mirra Fine, Daniel Klein and Hunter Johnson. \u003ccite>(The Perennial Plate )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>That’s the idea behind their new project, “\u003ca href=\"https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/588580164/resistance-through-storytelling\" target=\"_blank\">Resistance Through Storytelling\u003c/a>.” Klein, Fine and filmmaker Hunter Johnson plan to create short documentaries about five different immigrant or refugee families across the United States, centered around a cross-generational family dinner where each member discusses their immigration experience. The team will then distribute the films through Facebook’s hyper-stratified targeting options, aiming for moderate voters in swing states--selecting, say, people who live in Wisconsin and like the Packers--to combat what Klein calls the “anti-immigration echo chamber” in some newsfeeds.\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>“Almost every undocumented immigrant [coming] to this country is just looking for a better life, and refugees--who suffer more than pretty much anybody on the planet--are also looking for that opportunity,” he said. “We want people to think about how we’re all connected in the United States, and stray from the policies the government is putting in place that are pulling us apart, rather than bringing us together.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Almost every culture has a tradition of family meals, Klein points out. “By telling these personal, beautiful and inspiring stories, I think there’s an opportunity to get someone to have a little different perspective on one family or a group of people or culture,” he said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116836\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-116836\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/Screen-Shot-2017-03-22-at-9.47.25-PM.jpg\" alt=\"The breakdown of how the team will spend their Kickstarter funding.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1076\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/Screen-Shot-2017-03-22-at-9.47.25-PM.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/Screen-Shot-2017-03-22-at-9.47.25-PM-160x90.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/Screen-Shot-2017-03-22-at-9.47.25-PM-800x448.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/Screen-Shot-2017-03-22-at-9.47.25-PM-768x430.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/Screen-Shot-2017-03-22-at-9.47.25-PM-1020x572.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/Screen-Shot-2017-03-22-at-9.47.25-PM-1180x661.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/Screen-Shot-2017-03-22-at-9.47.25-PM-960x538.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/Screen-Shot-2017-03-22-at-9.47.25-PM-240x135.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/Screen-Shot-2017-03-22-at-9.47.25-PM-375x210.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/Screen-Shot-2017-03-22-at-9.47.25-PM-520x291.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The breakdown of how the team will spend their Kickstarter funding. \u003ccite>(The Perennial Plate )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>It’s an ambitious project. Klein and his team are asking $50,000 from \u003ca href=\"https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/588580164/resistance-through-storytelling\" target=\"_blank\">their Kickstarter\u003c/a>: half for the filmmaking and half for their Facebook advertising budget. They’ve currently raised more than half, but still need to raise the rest before their deadline on April 27. It’s a more expensive and overtly political venture than the Perennial Plate, but Klein believes it’s worth it to to break up newsfeeds featuring the same narrative. That homogeneity in news sources is what got us into this mess, he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“When you are in a bubble, you tend to stick with the people around you, with the influences you have,” he said. “If your Facebook feed is anything like mine, [it’s] a constant bombardment of ideas that ring true to what I already believe instead of trying to expand my horizons.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Klein isn’t sure what families he’ll be featuring. He’s looking into families in California, in places like the Bay Area, to get the perspective of families living in sanctuary cities. Klein and Fine live in Minnesota, home to the \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_the_Somalis_in_Minneapolis%E2%80%93Saint_Paul\" target=\"_blank\">largest concentration\u003c/a> of Somali immigrants in the US, and they’d like to show how Trump’s travel ban and deportation threats (ICE currently plans to \u003ca href=\"http://www.newsweek.com/4000-somalis-deportation-us-ambassador-581498\" target=\"_blank\">deport about 4,000 Somali immigrants\u003c/a>) are affecting the population. The project’s aesthetics will likely change and shift over time, but there’s one thing that Klein is already sure of: the tone of the films.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116830\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-116830\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/8435524233_749cca97ad_k.jpg\" alt=\"Fine and Klein in Gujarat, India.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/8435524233_749cca97ad_k.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/8435524233_749cca97ad_k-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/8435524233_749cca97ad_k-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/8435524233_749cca97ad_k-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/8435524233_749cca97ad_k-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/8435524233_749cca97ad_k-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/8435524233_749cca97ad_k-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/8435524233_749cca97ad_k-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/8435524233_749cca97ad_k-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/8435524233_749cca97ad_k-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fine and Klein in Gujarat, India. \u003ccite>(The Perennial Plate)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>He doesn’t want to play the part of the smug liberal, lecturing people about how they should vote. His main goal, he says, is to show viewers that immigrants share the same traits that Americans, particularly conservative Americans, value: things like hard work, loyalty and family. There are lots of people who have never met an immigrant or refugee, whose opinions on immigrants are shaped by cable TV pundits or Trump’s \u003ca href=\"https://apnews.com/20cb3e3adefa45eb933a7ac6acc207d6\" target=\"_blank\">preoccupation with crimes committed by immigrants\u003c/a>. The Perennial Plate team aims to present immigrant families as just another neighborhood family, one who bickers and burns food and laughs together the same way the viewer and their family does.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I want people to develop a human connection with someone that they might not normally have,” Klein said. If you’ve never met an immigrant from Somalia or Mexico, and all you know is that they’re \u003ca href=\"https://assets.donaldjtrump.com/Immigration-Reform-Trump.pdf\" target=\"_blank\">committing crimes and taking our jobs\u003c/a>, Klein hopes his films might change your attitude. “Suddenly you see a film [and] you really like this person's personality, and just thinking a little bit differently about [immigration], that’s all we can really hope for. We hope that spirals into a different way of thinking about the way our government approaches those groups of people.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Change is oftentimes pretty vague,” Klein added. “For us, it’s about doing the little piece that we can, and in our case, what we can do is tell stories. And stories are very powerful.”\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "It's Not Easy Being Green: Food Activism at the 2017 SF Green Film Festival",
"title": "It's Not Easy Being Green: Food Activism at the 2017 SF Green Film Festival",
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"content": "\u003cp>Three films at the\u003ca href=\"http://www.greenfilmfest.org/\" target=\"_blank\"> 2017 San Francisco Green Film Festival\u003c/a> (April 20-26) highlight, perhaps unintentionally, how hard it is to do the right thing. Or maybe they demonstrate how easy it is, but how often the right thing is ignored in favor of the expedient. This dilemma is familiar to anyone paying attention, vexing arguments that range across the landscape of human activity. Yes, it might be true that a particular practice is harmful in the long run, but the short-term benefits (usually jobs, economics) trump all other concerns. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What I mean is best expressed in the story of Dick Goin, a man whose decades-long fight to remove two dams and return Chinook salmon to their ancestral spawning grounds in Washington's Elwha River is poetically profiled in Jennifer Galvin & Sachi Cunningham's \u003ca href=\"http://www.thememoryoffish.com/\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>The Memory of Fish\u003c/em>\u003c/a> (Saturday, April 22, 3pm, Roxie Cinema).\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116825\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1400px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/The-Memory-of-Fish-3.jpg\" alt=\"Dick Goin, The Memory of Fish\" width=\"1400\" height=\"788\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116825\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/The-Memory-of-Fish-3.jpg 1400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/The-Memory-of-Fish-3-160x90.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/The-Memory-of-Fish-3-800x450.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/The-Memory-of-Fish-3-768x432.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/The-Memory-of-Fish-3-1020x574.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/The-Memory-of-Fish-3-1180x664.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/The-Memory-of-Fish-3-960x540.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/The-Memory-of-Fish-3-240x135.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/The-Memory-of-Fish-3-375x211.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/The-Memory-of-Fish-3-520x293.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1400px) 100vw, 1400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dick Goin, The Memory of Fish\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Goin's relationship with the river began when he was just a kid. His family suffered the ravages of the infamous Dust Bowl, sold what little they had and headed west from southwestern Iowa. They arrived on the banks of the Elwha \"poor as rats,\" surviving starvation because of the river's rich natural resources, most particularly the hefty salmon that thrived there. Goin spent his whole life on the river, which was dammed early in the 20th century to produce hydro-electricity, fueling mills that produced everything from tires to canned fish. At 18, Goin went to work at Rayonier Incorporated, servicing the machines powered by the dams he despised for 41 1/2 years. He recounts witnessing juvenile salmonids hit the pollution generated by Rayonier and going belly up and wonders at his inaction. \"Should I have then said, 'Hell, I won't work here anymore?'\" How would he have put food on the table for his young family? He says, \"You accept the necessities of life...\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://youtu.be/5GwGlEX0ktw\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The combination of the dams, which inhibited spawning, the canneries that chopped and packaged the fish and other companies that spewed pollution resulted in a huge decline of the Chinook population. Goin's own fishing records track reductions in the size and quantity of the fish. Once Goin retired, and most of the factories previously powered by the dams went out of business, he began to lobby for the restoration of the river. Of course there was resistance. No one had ever undertaken such a \u003ca href=\"http://projects.seattletimes.com/2016/elwha/\" target=\"_blank\">massive dam removal project\u003c/a>. What would happen to the river if it was returned to its former state?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This timeline brings up a troubling question. Did Goin advocate for the river's restoration when his livelihood depended on the power generated by its two dams? This is the complicated heart of the conservation question, the sticky point located at the center of enlightenment, convenience and self interest. Why is it so difficult to do the right thing?\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116826\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1400px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2257_Sunburst-Farm_Apple-pickers.jpg\" alt=\"Sunburst Farm apple pickers; Evolution of Organic\" width=\"1400\" height=\"1013\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116826\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2257_Sunburst-Farm_Apple-pickers.jpg 1400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2257_Sunburst-Farm_Apple-pickers-160x116.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2257_Sunburst-Farm_Apple-pickers-800x579.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2257_Sunburst-Farm_Apple-pickers-768x556.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2257_Sunburst-Farm_Apple-pickers-1020x738.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2257_Sunburst-Farm_Apple-pickers-1180x854.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2257_Sunburst-Farm_Apple-pickers-960x695.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2257_Sunburst-Farm_Apple-pickers-240x174.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2257_Sunburst-Farm_Apple-pickers-375x271.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2257_Sunburst-Farm_Apple-pickers-520x376.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1400px) 100vw, 1400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sunburst Farm apple pickers; Evolution of Organic\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The festival's opening night film, Mark Kitchell's \u003ca href=\"http://evolutionoforganic.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Evolution of Organic\u003c/a> (Thursday, April 20, 7:30pm, Castro Theatre) provides a partial answer. There were indeed people devoted to a principle that was a little more enlightened than it was self-interested. In reaction to the industrial farming practices of the late 1960s and early 1970s, a small band of \"hippies\" sought natural food alternatives for themselves, their families and their communities. However, making a living as an organic farmer was exceedingly difficult in an era when the term was at best obscure and at worst denigrated. This core group of true believers persisted because growing healthy food and responsibly stewarding the land was the right thing to do. They adopted farming practices and innovated food distribution operations out of necessity. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Images of this early movement are endearingly hilarious, looking how you would expect coastal Californians looked in the early 1970s. One image, the one I would have liked to use to promote this post, is of a group of naked, long-haired men and women crouched together on a patch of land, boobs and penises dangling freely, arms draped over one another as the afternoon sun kisses their honey-colored skin. One can only imagine the night ahead after a day's work digging in the dirt! \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://youtu.be/Mh_9ojGcYoE\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The film -- in four acts -- tracks the rise of the \"organic\" movement, which has come to mean so much (and sometimes so little) in today's supermarket. Inspired by Rachel Carson's \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silent_Spring\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>Silent Spring\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, an influential tome documenting the detrimental effects of pesticides, and the arrival of English master gardener \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alan_Chadwick\" target=\"_blank\">Alan Chadwick\u003c/a> at the University of California, Santa Cruz, early organic farmers had to resist prevalent farming practices and rediscover a history of seemingly lost knowledge. (Funny that. A few decades of industrial farming could somehow wipe away millennia of practice. How easily we humans forget.) \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116827\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1400px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2098_RMarks-PVF-Annie-Marks-Apples.jpg\" alt=\"Evolution of Organic\" width=\"1400\" height=\"930\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116827\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2098_RMarks-PVF-Annie-Marks-Apples.jpg 1400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2098_RMarks-PVF-Annie-Marks-Apples-160x106.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2098_RMarks-PVF-Annie-Marks-Apples-800x531.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2098_RMarks-PVF-Annie-Marks-Apples-768x510.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2098_RMarks-PVF-Annie-Marks-Apples-1020x678.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2098_RMarks-PVF-Annie-Marks-Apples-1180x784.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2098_RMarks-PVF-Annie-Marks-Apples-960x638.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2098_RMarks-PVF-Annie-Marks-Apples-240x159.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2098_RMarks-PVF-Annie-Marks-Apples-375x249.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2098_RMarks-PVF-Annie-Marks-Apples-520x345.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1400px) 100vw, 1400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Evolution of Organic \u003ccite>(Annie Marks)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Starting with the beginnings of the movement, when the desire for clean food meant either growing it or distributing it yourself, the film documents the rise of organic practice, illuminating an era when producers shared knowledge on the tailgates of their pick-up trucks. As with all things, organic farming grew because there was a demand. The cash register really is capitalism's ballot box. After a couple of decades in obscurity, the baby lettuce (AKA \"spring mix\") craze of the early 1990s put organic on the map. A couple well-publicized pesticide health scares later, large supermarket chains began to feel the demand. Increased value brought larger producers, many switching their commercial practices to organic. The film's final act locates the current seeds of the movement's future, perhaps even as a redress to atmospheric carbon. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>An interesting point that quickly rushed by was the impending retirement of the organic \"elders.\" This made me wonder about the fate of all the organic farmland this group of pioneers has cleared and converted. Is it in the process of sub-division, turning into vineyards or remote homes for California's coastal elite?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Again, the question arises: what is the right action? Is it favorably aligned with the self interests of those who struggled in obscurity for decades before finding themselves at the vanguard of a food movement that generated a great deal of health and wealth? \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116828\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1400px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6_Rancher-Dusty-Crary-visiting-fathers-grave_Beth-Aala.jpg\" alt=\"Dusty Crary visits his father's grave; Rancher, Farmer, Fisherman\" width=\"1400\" height=\"1050\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116828\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6_Rancher-Dusty-Crary-visiting-fathers-grave_Beth-Aala.jpg 1400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6_Rancher-Dusty-Crary-visiting-fathers-grave_Beth-Aala-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6_Rancher-Dusty-Crary-visiting-fathers-grave_Beth-Aala-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6_Rancher-Dusty-Crary-visiting-fathers-grave_Beth-Aala-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6_Rancher-Dusty-Crary-visiting-fathers-grave_Beth-Aala-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6_Rancher-Dusty-Crary-visiting-fathers-grave_Beth-Aala-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6_Rancher-Dusty-Crary-visiting-fathers-grave_Beth-Aala-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6_Rancher-Dusty-Crary-visiting-fathers-grave_Beth-Aala-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6_Rancher-Dusty-Crary-visiting-fathers-grave_Beth-Aala-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6_Rancher-Dusty-Crary-visiting-fathers-grave_Beth-Aala-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1400px) 100vw, 1400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dusty Crary visits his father's grave; Rancher, Farmer, Fisherman \u003ccite>(Beth AAla)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>If Susan Froemke and John Hoffman's Discovery Channel documentary \u003ca href=\"http://rancherfarmerfisherman.com/\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>Rancher, Farmer, Fisherman\u003c/em>\u003c/a> (Wednesday, April 26, 6pm, Castro Theatre) is any indication, the answer would be ... complicated. Ultimately, the documentary's characters fight a good fight, protecting land from oil drilling, adopting till-free farming practices and creating fishing quotas to responsibly steward the delicate resources of a fishery. But what motivates these people to ultimately do the right thing? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://youtu.be/evg6U1mo3kg\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the case of the Montana ranchers, the large tracts of property their families have inhabited for generations became threatened by proposed drilling on nearby federal lands. They fought not only to shut this activity down, but worked with conservation groups to permanently secure adjacent areas and limit the uses for their own properties for generations. Their self interest conserves the landscape for their descendants, while also protecting over a million acres from development. It's a net good, with direct benefits for a select few. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Similarly, the cadre of Louisiana commercial fishermen featured in the film created fishing quotas for themselves, but only after the stocks of red snapper from which they made their living very nearly collapsed. Finally, after years of warning, they came together to cooperatively save the fishery on which their lives depended. Why did this action take so long? What is it about the human species that makes this kind of enlightened action so elusive? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I suppose there is no answer to this question, only a willingness to continue asking that is the hallmark of the San Francisco Green Film Festival. The festival runs April 20-26, 2017. For tickets and information visit \u003ca href=\"http://www.greenfilmfest.org/\" target=\"_blank\">greenfilmfest.org\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Three food-related films at the 2017 SF Green Film Festival highlight the challenges of conservation. The festival runs April 20-26, 2017.",
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"title": "It's Not Easy Being Green: Food Activism at the 2017 SF Green Film Festival | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Three films at the\u003ca href=\"http://www.greenfilmfest.org/\" target=\"_blank\"> 2017 San Francisco Green Film Festival\u003c/a> (April 20-26) highlight, perhaps unintentionally, how hard it is to do the right thing. Or maybe they demonstrate how easy it is, but how often the right thing is ignored in favor of the expedient. This dilemma is familiar to anyone paying attention, vexing arguments that range across the landscape of human activity. Yes, it might be true that a particular practice is harmful in the long run, but the short-term benefits (usually jobs, economics) trump all other concerns. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What I mean is best expressed in the story of Dick Goin, a man whose decades-long fight to remove two dams and return Chinook salmon to their ancestral spawning grounds in Washington's Elwha River is poetically profiled in Jennifer Galvin & Sachi Cunningham's \u003ca href=\"http://www.thememoryoffish.com/\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>The Memory of Fish\u003c/em>\u003c/a> (Saturday, April 22, 3pm, Roxie Cinema).\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116825\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1400px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/The-Memory-of-Fish-3.jpg\" alt=\"Dick Goin, The Memory of Fish\" width=\"1400\" height=\"788\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116825\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/The-Memory-of-Fish-3.jpg 1400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/The-Memory-of-Fish-3-160x90.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/The-Memory-of-Fish-3-800x450.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/The-Memory-of-Fish-3-768x432.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/The-Memory-of-Fish-3-1020x574.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/The-Memory-of-Fish-3-1180x664.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/The-Memory-of-Fish-3-960x540.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/The-Memory-of-Fish-3-240x135.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/The-Memory-of-Fish-3-375x211.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/The-Memory-of-Fish-3-520x293.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1400px) 100vw, 1400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dick Goin, The Memory of Fish\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Goin's relationship with the river began when he was just a kid. His family suffered the ravages of the infamous Dust Bowl, sold what little they had and headed west from southwestern Iowa. They arrived on the banks of the Elwha \"poor as rats,\" surviving starvation because of the river's rich natural resources, most particularly the hefty salmon that thrived there. Goin spent his whole life on the river, which was dammed early in the 20th century to produce hydro-electricity, fueling mills that produced everything from tires to canned fish. At 18, Goin went to work at Rayonier Incorporated, servicing the machines powered by the dams he despised for 41 1/2 years. He recounts witnessing juvenile salmonids hit the pollution generated by Rayonier and going belly up and wonders at his inaction. \"Should I have then said, 'Hell, I won't work here anymore?'\" How would he have put food on the table for his young family? He says, \"You accept the necessities of life...\"\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/5GwGlEX0ktw'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/5GwGlEX0ktw'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cp>The combination of the dams, which inhibited spawning, the canneries that chopped and packaged the fish and other companies that spewed pollution resulted in a huge decline of the Chinook population. Goin's own fishing records track reductions in the size and quantity of the fish. Once Goin retired, and most of the factories previously powered by the dams went out of business, he began to lobby for the restoration of the river. Of course there was resistance. No one had ever undertaken such a \u003ca href=\"http://projects.seattletimes.com/2016/elwha/\" target=\"_blank\">massive dam removal project\u003c/a>. What would happen to the river if it was returned to its former state?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This timeline brings up a troubling question. Did Goin advocate for the river's restoration when his livelihood depended on the power generated by its two dams? This is the complicated heart of the conservation question, the sticky point located at the center of enlightenment, convenience and self interest. Why is it so difficult to do the right thing?\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116826\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1400px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2257_Sunburst-Farm_Apple-pickers.jpg\" alt=\"Sunburst Farm apple pickers; Evolution of Organic\" width=\"1400\" height=\"1013\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116826\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2257_Sunburst-Farm_Apple-pickers.jpg 1400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2257_Sunburst-Farm_Apple-pickers-160x116.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2257_Sunburst-Farm_Apple-pickers-800x579.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2257_Sunburst-Farm_Apple-pickers-768x556.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2257_Sunburst-Farm_Apple-pickers-1020x738.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2257_Sunburst-Farm_Apple-pickers-1180x854.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2257_Sunburst-Farm_Apple-pickers-960x695.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2257_Sunburst-Farm_Apple-pickers-240x174.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2257_Sunburst-Farm_Apple-pickers-375x271.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2257_Sunburst-Farm_Apple-pickers-520x376.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1400px) 100vw, 1400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sunburst Farm apple pickers; Evolution of Organic\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The festival's opening night film, Mark Kitchell's \u003ca href=\"http://evolutionoforganic.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Evolution of Organic\u003c/a> (Thursday, April 20, 7:30pm, Castro Theatre) provides a partial answer. There were indeed people devoted to a principle that was a little more enlightened than it was self-interested. In reaction to the industrial farming practices of the late 1960s and early 1970s, a small band of \"hippies\" sought natural food alternatives for themselves, their families and their communities. However, making a living as an organic farmer was exceedingly difficult in an era when the term was at best obscure and at worst denigrated. This core group of true believers persisted because growing healthy food and responsibly stewarding the land was the right thing to do. They adopted farming practices and innovated food distribution operations out of necessity. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Images of this early movement are endearingly hilarious, looking how you would expect coastal Californians looked in the early 1970s. One image, the one I would have liked to use to promote this post, is of a group of naked, long-haired men and women crouched together on a patch of land, boobs and penises dangling freely, arms draped over one another as the afternoon sun kisses their honey-colored skin. One can only imagine the night ahead after a day's work digging in the dirt! \u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/Mh_9ojGcYoE'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/Mh_9ojGcYoE'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cp>The film -- in four acts -- tracks the rise of the \"organic\" movement, which has come to mean so much (and sometimes so little) in today's supermarket. Inspired by Rachel Carson's \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silent_Spring\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>Silent Spring\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, an influential tome documenting the detrimental effects of pesticides, and the arrival of English master gardener \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alan_Chadwick\" target=\"_blank\">Alan Chadwick\u003c/a> at the University of California, Santa Cruz, early organic farmers had to resist prevalent farming practices and rediscover a history of seemingly lost knowledge. (Funny that. A few decades of industrial farming could somehow wipe away millennia of practice. How easily we humans forget.) \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116827\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1400px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2098_RMarks-PVF-Annie-Marks-Apples.jpg\" alt=\"Evolution of Organic\" width=\"1400\" height=\"930\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116827\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2098_RMarks-PVF-Annie-Marks-Apples.jpg 1400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2098_RMarks-PVF-Annie-Marks-Apples-160x106.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2098_RMarks-PVF-Annie-Marks-Apples-800x531.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2098_RMarks-PVF-Annie-Marks-Apples-768x510.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2098_RMarks-PVF-Annie-Marks-Apples-1020x678.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2098_RMarks-PVF-Annie-Marks-Apples-1180x784.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2098_RMarks-PVF-Annie-Marks-Apples-960x638.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2098_RMarks-PVF-Annie-Marks-Apples-240x159.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2098_RMarks-PVF-Annie-Marks-Apples-375x249.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2098_RMarks-PVF-Annie-Marks-Apples-520x345.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1400px) 100vw, 1400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Evolution of Organic \u003ccite>(Annie Marks)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Starting with the beginnings of the movement, when the desire for clean food meant either growing it or distributing it yourself, the film documents the rise of organic practice, illuminating an era when producers shared knowledge on the tailgates of their pick-up trucks. As with all things, organic farming grew because there was a demand. The cash register really is capitalism's ballot box. After a couple of decades in obscurity, the baby lettuce (AKA \"spring mix\") craze of the early 1990s put organic on the map. A couple well-publicized pesticide health scares later, large supermarket chains began to feel the demand. Increased value brought larger producers, many switching their commercial practices to organic. The film's final act locates the current seeds of the movement's future, perhaps even as a redress to atmospheric carbon. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>An interesting point that quickly rushed by was the impending retirement of the organic \"elders.\" This made me wonder about the fate of all the organic farmland this group of pioneers has cleared and converted. Is it in the process of sub-division, turning into vineyards or remote homes for California's coastal elite?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Again, the question arises: what is the right action? Is it favorably aligned with the self interests of those who struggled in obscurity for decades before finding themselves at the vanguard of a food movement that generated a great deal of health and wealth? \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116828\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1400px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6_Rancher-Dusty-Crary-visiting-fathers-grave_Beth-Aala.jpg\" alt=\"Dusty Crary visits his father's grave; Rancher, Farmer, Fisherman\" width=\"1400\" height=\"1050\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116828\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6_Rancher-Dusty-Crary-visiting-fathers-grave_Beth-Aala.jpg 1400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6_Rancher-Dusty-Crary-visiting-fathers-grave_Beth-Aala-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6_Rancher-Dusty-Crary-visiting-fathers-grave_Beth-Aala-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6_Rancher-Dusty-Crary-visiting-fathers-grave_Beth-Aala-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6_Rancher-Dusty-Crary-visiting-fathers-grave_Beth-Aala-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6_Rancher-Dusty-Crary-visiting-fathers-grave_Beth-Aala-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6_Rancher-Dusty-Crary-visiting-fathers-grave_Beth-Aala-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6_Rancher-Dusty-Crary-visiting-fathers-grave_Beth-Aala-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6_Rancher-Dusty-Crary-visiting-fathers-grave_Beth-Aala-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6_Rancher-Dusty-Crary-visiting-fathers-grave_Beth-Aala-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1400px) 100vw, 1400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dusty Crary visits his father's grave; Rancher, Farmer, Fisherman \u003ccite>(Beth AAla)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>If Susan Froemke and John Hoffman's Discovery Channel documentary \u003ca href=\"http://rancherfarmerfisherman.com/\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>Rancher, Farmer, Fisherman\u003c/em>\u003c/a> (Wednesday, April 26, 6pm, Castro Theatre) is any indication, the answer would be ... complicated. Ultimately, the documentary's characters fight a good fight, protecting land from oil drilling, adopting till-free farming practices and creating fishing quotas to responsibly steward the delicate resources of a fishery. But what motivates these people to ultimately do the right thing? \u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/evg6U1mo3kg'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/evg6U1mo3kg'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cp>In the case of the Montana ranchers, the large tracts of property their families have inhabited for generations became threatened by proposed drilling on nearby federal lands. They fought not only to shut this activity down, but worked with conservation groups to permanently secure adjacent areas and limit the uses for their own properties for generations. Their self interest conserves the landscape for their descendants, while also protecting over a million acres from development. It's a net good, with direct benefits for a select few. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Similarly, the cadre of Louisiana commercial fishermen featured in the film created fishing quotas for themselves, but only after the stocks of red snapper from which they made their living very nearly collapsed. Finally, after years of warning, they came together to cooperatively save the fishery on which their lives depended. Why did this action take so long? What is it about the human species that makes this kind of enlightened action so elusive? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I suppose there is no answer to this question, only a willingness to continue asking that is the hallmark of the San Francisco Green Film Festival. The festival runs April 20-26, 2017. For tickets and information visit \u003ca href=\"http://www.greenfilmfest.org/\" target=\"_blank\">greenfilmfest.org\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Monsanto’s Driverless Car: Is CRISPR Gene Editing Driving Seed Consolidation?",
"title": "Monsanto’s Driverless Car: Is CRISPR Gene Editing Driving Seed Consolidation?",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>When the CEOs of both Monsanto and Bayer met with Donald Trump to talk about their potential merger just three days before the inauguration, they made some \u003ca href=\"https://www.bloomberg.com/politics/articles/2017-01-17/bayer-to-invest-8-billion-and-add-3-000-jobs-trump-aide-says\">big promises\u003c/a>. If the union between the world’s largest seed company and the German multinational chemical, pharmaceutical, and life-sciences company is blessed by antitrust regulators, the companies have pledged to add 3,000 high-tech American jobs and to combine—rather than consolidate and trim—their R&D budgets to the tune of $16 billion over the next six years, or $2.7 billion a year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The two companies have been locked in a dance since May 2016, when Monsanto \u003ca href=\"https://www.wsj.com/articles/monsanto-rejects-bayer-merger-offer-says-its-open-to-talks-1464110057\">rejected\u003c/a> Bayer’s initial $62 billion offer. Then, last fall, the merger reappeared in the news in a noteworthy chain of events.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On September 14, Bayer upped its offer to $66 billion and Monsanto accepted, putting a third major seed company merger on the table, beside ChemChina’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.wsj.com/articles/chemchina-offers-more-than-43-billion-for-syngenta-1454480529\">$43 billion takeover\u003c/a> of Syngenta and Dow Chemical’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.bloomberg.com/news/articles/2017-01-24/dupont-earnings-top-estimates-on-sales-of-plastics-to-carmakers\">intended merger\u003c/a> with DuPont. On the day it was announced, the \u003cem>Washington Post\u003c/em> \u003ca href=\"https://www.washingtonpost.com/news/business/wp/2016/09/14/bayer-and-monsanto-merge-in-mega-deal-aimed-at-domi-worlds-food-supply/?utm_term=.70f457ae8a04\">called the Bayer-Monsanto deal\u003c/a> the “mega-deal that could reshape [the] world’s food supply.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Less than a week later, spokespeople for the companies behind all three mergers were asked to \u003ca href=\"https://www.judiciary.senate.gov/meetings/consolidation-and-competition-in-the-us-seed-and-agrochemical-industry\">testify\u003c/a> before the senate judiciary committee, on what senator Chuck Grassley (R-Iowa) called a “\u003ca href=\"http://bigstory.ap.org/article/05fc5120c295442fbc7c0f2a11ce19cd/senate-panel-scrutinize-proposed-bayer-monsanto-merger\">merger tsunami\u003c/a>.” Then, just two days later, Monsanto \u003ca href=\"http://news.monsanto.com/press-release/corporate/monsanto-announces-global-licensing-agreement-broad-institute-key-genome-edi\">announced\u003c/a> it had licensed the rights to use CRISPR/Cas9 gene editing—a technology that has been \u003ca href=\"http://www.newyorker.com/magazine/2015/11/16/the-gene-hackers\">called\u003c/a> the “Model T of genetics” for its power to change the way we live.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This rapid-fire timing may have been a coincidence, but it also may be a sign of what’s to come. And it’s just one of many indications that CRISPR/Cas9 and other next-generation gene editing technologies will likely be at the forefront of the seed industry in the years ahead. Some even see gene editing, which is said to be simpler, less expensive, and more consumer-friendly than traditional genetic engineering, as one factor \u003ca href=\"http://www.theepochtimes.com/n3/2162211-why-crispr-is-key-to-massive-agribusiness-consolidations/\">driving\u003c/a> the mergers. And while that’s up for debate, it’s clearly an important part of the strategy for companies looking to control, and profit from, the world’s seeds.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Last week the European Union \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2017/04/05/business/syngenta-chemchina-takeover.html?mwrsm=Email&_r=0\">cleared the way\u003c/a> for the ChemChina–Syngenta takeover, suggesting the other two mergers may be imminent. If that happens, the resulting three companies would control nearly 60 percent of global seedstocks (including as much as 80 percent of U.S. corn seeds) and 70 percent of the global pesticide market. And these companies are also making a bid to control much more than seeds and pesticides. Monsanto, for example, is already making a play to control many other facets of modern agriculture—including tools for precision planting and high-tech \u003ca href=\"https://techcrunch.com/2013/10/02/monsanto-acquires-weather-big-data-company-climate-corporation-for-930m/\">weather prediction\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So while much of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.nationalgeographic.com/magazine/2016/08/dna-crispr-gene-editing-science-ethics/\">media coverage\u003c/a> of \u003ca href=\"http://gizmodo.com/everything-you-need-to-know-about-crispr-the-new-tool-1702114381\">gene editing\u003c/a> has pointed to its potential to break molds and change the genetic playing field, when it comes to agriculture, it will likely follow a more familiar path: CRISPR and other similar technology will most likely be used by scientists mainly to continue developing seeds that withstand consistent doses of pesticides on large, industrialized farms.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Monsanto has been conducting research with genome-editing techniques for years, and we are excited to be integrating additional technology from licensing partners in to this body of work,” Tom Adams, biotechnology lead for Monsanto, said in an email. Over the past year, the company has announced several licensing agreements that will allow it to access gene-editing technologies, such as CRISPR/Cas9 and CRISPR-Cpf1 (which is said to be \u003ca href=\"http://www.nature.com/articles/ncomms14406\">more precise\u003c/a>), as well as a tool from Dow AgroScience called EXZACT™ Precision Technology\u003csup>®\u003c/sup> Platform\u003cu>,\u003c/u> among others.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Although Adams said this work is still in its early days, he added, “we believe that genome-editing techniques have great potential to improve and unlock capabilities across our leading germplasm and genome libraries to enable a wide variety of improvements across crop systems.” However, he added, “We do not view it as a replacement for plant biotechnology.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>SEED: The Untold Story will premiere on the PBS series \u003ci>Independent Lens\u003c/i> on \u003cspan class=\"aBn\" tabindex=\"0\" data-term=\"goog_1829742120\">\u003cspan class=\"aQJ\">April 17, 2017 at 10PM\u003c/span>\u003c/span>. \u003ca href=\"http://www.pbs.org/independentlens/films/seed-the-untold-story/\">Learn more\u003c/a>. \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://youtu.be/3ys0fgZ7hmA\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Gene Editing vs. Genetic Engineering\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Since 1996, Monsanto has released a series of genetically engineered herbicide-resistant seeds, beginning with Roundup Ready soybeans in 1996, and moving on to corn, cotton, sugar beets, canola, and more. Today, Roundup Ready crops account for over \u003ca href=\"https://www.ers.usda.gov/data-products/adoption-of-genetically-engineered-crops-in-the-us/recent-trends-in-ge-adoption.aspx\">94 percent of the soybeans and 89 percent of the corn\u003c/a> grown in the United States.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As these products have come to dominate the farm landscape, weeds have also become resistant to Roundup. According to the \u003ca href=\"http://wssa.net/wp-content/uploads/WSSA-Fact-Sheet-on-Superweeds_16-Sep-2014.pdf\">Weed Science Society of America\u003c/a>, “overreliance on herbicides with a single mechanism of action to control certain weeds has led to the selection of weeds resistant to that mechanism of action.” Similarly, incidents of pesticide resistance have also \u003ca href=\"https://www.wsj.com/articles/limits-sought-on-gmo-corn-as-pest-resistance-grows-1425587078\">been on the rise\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116814\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/170410-crispr-2.jpg\" alt=\"Roundup\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116814\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/170410-crispr-2.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/170410-crispr-2-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/170410-crispr-2-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/170410-crispr-2-375x281.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Roundup \u003ccite>( \u003ca href=\"https://www.flickr.com/photos/jeepersmedia/26673445341\">Mike Mozart\u003c/a>)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As a result, farmers often find themselves on what critics call a \u003ca href=\"http://www.panna.org/gmos-pesticides-profit/pesticide-treadmill\">pesticide treadmill\u003c/a>, where each new form of resistance requires a more powerful solution. Companies have spent the last several years working on seeds with “stacked traits,” which combine two or more genes of interest into a single plant. In the case of Monsanto, that has meant, for instance, \u003ca href=\"https://www.fool.com/investing/2016/09/03/are-you-ready-for-monsantos-1-billion-herbicide-fa.aspx\">breeding seeds\u003c/a> that tolerate both glyphosate and a second herbicide called dicamba.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The main difference between gene editing and classical genetic engineering is that the former allows scientists to manipulate the genetic makeup of an organism—by changing or “knocking out” the function of a gene—without introducing genes from other organisms. This last part is key, because it’s often the combination of parts of various organisms—such as genes from bacteria added to corn to create herbicide resistance or genes from an arctic flounder added to strawberries to make them able to withstand cold weather—that has made the public wary of GMOs in their food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the image of CRISPR/Cas9 and other gene editing tools as an “entirely pristine” technology that rules out all foreign DNA isn’t entirely accurate, says Maywa Montenegro, a Ph.D. candidate in Environmental Science, Policy, and Management at University of California, Berkeley.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“They aren’t wrong in saying CRISPR doesn’t need to introduce foreign DNA, but it absolutely can. That’s what it’s very good at,” she said. “But it’s also important for people to understand that you can create huge, impactful changes in a plant’s functioning without introducing anything foreign.” De-activating, or knocking out, a gene function, can significantly change the plants and animals involved.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the case of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.nature.com/nbt/journal/v32/n9/full/nbt.2969.html\">mildew-resistant wheat\u003c/a> developed in China, for instance, scientists were able to introduce “targeted mutations” using CRISPR/Cas9 without inserting new genes. In another example, Cibus, a San Diego-based startup, has produced (and commercialized) an \u003ca href=\"https://www.cibus.com/\">herbicide-resistant canola\u003c/a> using another early gene-editing technique called Rapid Trait Development System (RTDS).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The company also \u003ca href=\"http://www.agriculture.com/technology/how-gene-editing-will-change-agriculture\">says\u003c/a> it has other crops, such as herbicide-resistant rice and flax seeds, in the pipeline. DuPont is also working with the Berkeley-based start-up Caribou Biosciences (founded by \u003ca href=\"http://www.dailycal.org/2016/02/18/caribou-biosciences-co-founded-campus-researcher-jennifer-doudna-receives-intellectual-property-rights-crispr-technology/\">Jennifer Doudna\u003c/a>, one of the founders and patent-holders of CRISPR/Cas9 technology) to develop gene-edited, drought-resistant corn and wheat varieties.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The most widely discussed food produced using gene editing today is a \u003ca href=\"http://agsci.psu.edu/magazine/articles/2016/fall-winter/a-crispr-mushroom\">non-browning mushroom\u003c/a> developed using CRISPR/Cas9 at Pennsylvania State University. The mushroom received a great deal of media attention last spring, when the Penn State scientists received \u003ca href=\"https://www.aphis.usda.gov/biotechnology/downloads/reg_loi/15-321-01_air_response_signed.pdf\">a letter\u003c/a> from the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) informing them that the agency would not be regulating its field testing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the time, a number of media outlets reported that the mushroom had “\u003ca href=\"http://www.nature.com/news/gene-edited-crispr-mushroom-escapes-us-regulation-1.19754\">escaped regulation\u003c/a>,” suggesting that gene editing was not only remarkably different than tradition genetic engineering in crucial ways, but that it also might be the key to avoiding government oversight. But on both accounts, the reality may be less cut and dried.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Will Gene-Edited Seeds be Regulated?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Doug Gurian-Sherman, director of sustainable agriculture and senior scientist for the \u003ca href=\"http://www.centerforfoodsafety.org/\">Center for Food Safety\u003c/a> (CFS), says the letter USDA sent to Penn State about the non-browning mushroom was just one of over 30 that went out at that time in response to requests by a variety of entities working with gene-editing technology.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While the USDA did clearly mention the fact that the mushroom didn’t contain any foreign DNA in its response, that wasn’t the only reason it abdicated its regulatory authority. Just as important, it seems, is the fact that the mushroom was not in any way considered a “plant pest.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You see, when it comes to regulating GMO crops, plant pests have been at the heart of the USDA’s regulation approach; all other genetically engineered products fall under the auspices of either the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) or the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA). (A document from the Pew Charitable Trusts includes a \u003ca href=\"http://www.pewtrusts.org/~/media/legacy/uploadedfiles/wwwpewtrustsorg/reports/food_and_biotechnology/hhsbiotech0901pdf.pdf\">handy chart\u003c/a> detailing which agency is supposed to regulate what types of organisms.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In fact, the \u003ca href=\"https://www.aphis.usda.gov/biotechnology/downloads/reg_loi/15-321-01_air_response_signed.pdf\">letter\u003c/a> sent to Penn State concluded with this sentence: “Please be advised that the white button mushroom variety described in your letter may still be subject to other regulatory authorities such as the FDA or EPA.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So gene editing was by no means the only factor at hand. “As soon as they put genes in from any plant pest they would immediately become regulated by USDA,” said Gurian-Sherman.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, exactly how the FDA plans to regulate gene editing is yet to be seen. Since January, the agency has been \u003ca href=\"https://s3.amazonaws.com/public-inspection.federalregister.gov/2017-00840.pdf\">seeking public input\u003c/a> on the topic in both medical research and agriculture. One core question at hand is whether gene editing will be considered “genetic engineering.” And at a time when a growing number of consumers want to know exactly what’s in their food—and around \u003ca href=\"http://abcnews.go.com/Technology/story?id=97567&page=1\">90 percent\u003c/a> of Americans say they want to see genetically engineered ingredients in food labeled—this is as much a question of consumer demand as it is a question of regulation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We already see lots of people who are supportive of genetic engineering, calling [gene editing] ‘advanced breeding,’” said Gurian-Sherman. But, he added, “In terms of most of the legal definitions of genetic engineering that are out there right now, it applies. I think it is a legitimate area for argument whether this is generally safer or not or more acceptable, but they clearly don’t want to label it genetic engineering.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to Michael Hansen, senior staff scientist at Consumers Union, “the FDA’s documents now \u003ca href=\"https://www.fda.gov/Food/GuidanceRegulation/GuidanceDocumentsRegulatoryInformation/ucm059098.htm\">clearly say\u003c/a> their definition of bioengineering is the same as the \u003ca href=\"http://civileats.com/2017/04/10/monsantos-driverless-car-is-crispr-gene-editing-driving-seed-consolidation/definition%2520of%2520modern%2520biotechnolgy\">definition\u003c/a> of modern biotechnology held by \u003ca href=\"http://www.fao.org/fao-who-codexalimentarius/en/\">Codex Alimentarius\u003c/a>.” That’s the “Food Code” established by the U.N. Food and Agriculture Organization and the World Health Organization. The Codex definition refers to any organism made using “the application of in vitro nucleic acid techniques.” And since gene editing does precisely that, Hansen believes the answer is clear: Gene editing should be seen as genetic engineering.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But not everyone agrees. In an \u003ca href=\"http://www.nature.com/ng/journal/v48/n2/full/ng.3505.html\">editorial\u003c/a> last January, for instance, the editors of \u003cem>Nature\u003c/em> endorsed “the principle of transparency in the production of genome-edited crops and livestock…with no further need for regulation or distinction of these goods from the products of traditional breeding.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>U.C. Berkeley’s Montenegro describes CRISPR/Cas9 as a kind of Swiss army knife with the potential to be paradigm-shifting. But, she adds that, for that reason, it calls for a lot more scrutiny and regulatory oversight\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hansen agrees. Using gene editing, he said, “You can identify a key sequence you want to cut. But wherever that sequence occurs in the genome, you would get a cut. And you will also get a cut at sequences that look similar.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hansen also points to the fact that scientists have experienced at least some \u003ca href=\"http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/febs.13586/full\">off-target effects\u003c/a> with most gene editing technology to date. He points to the case of an \u003ca href=\"http://www.nature.com/news/hiv-overcomes-crispr-gene-editing-attack-1.19712\">effort to destroy the HIV virus\u003c/a> with CRISPR/Cas9. Although scientists engineered T-cells with CRISPR to recognize and destroy HIV, he said, “it took the HIV just a couple of weeks to evolve resistance to CRISPR.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And in a recent effort to \u003ca href=\"http://arep.med.harvard.edu/pdf/Ostrov_Church_2016.pdf\">artificially synthesize\u003c/a> a new genome for \u003cem>E. coli\u003c/em>, a group of scientists decided not to use gene editing because, they wrote, “these strategies…likely would introduce off-target mutations.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Despite these concerns, CFS’s Gurian-Sherman says there are big questions about how regulatory bodies under the Trump administration will choose to respond to the technology. For one, he says, gene editing could be much harder to test for.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Detecting [transgenic] engineered changes, for a molecular biologist is really, really easy,” he said. But some of these [gene edits] are not going to leave much of a fingerprint, if at all, and they’re going to be very hard to trace,” he said. “So something like the kind of testing the \u003ca href=\"https://www.nongmoproject.org/\">Non-GMO Project\u003c/a> does probably wouldn’t be possible in foods edited with CRISPR.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ultimately, Monsanto appears to be preparing for the possibility of regulation. When Lux Research, an independent technology research and advisory firm, looked into the Monsanto-Bayer merger in December, they surmised that gene editing was an important part of Monsanto’s appeal to Bayer, but that it was by no means the only technology they’re banking on.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Monsanto’s advantage in the space is that they’re super diverse and they have their hands in all the cookie jars,” said Laura Lee, the author of \u003ca href=\"https://members.luxresearchinc.com/research/report/21808\">Lux’s report\u003c/a>. “So they’d be able to advance traits using CRISPR, or if the regulatory bodies step in and decide to classify CRISPR as genetic modification or put a harmful label on it, they’ll have of other options.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>“More Accessible” Technology\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While CRISPR and other gene editing tools are seen as more affordable and more efficient, they’re also being touted as more accessible than traditional genetic engineering—and they are already being used in small private laboratories.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We think the fact that this science is accessible to and being explored by many researchers across the public and private sectors is exciting—and will only improve the types of products that will ultimately be accessible to farmers,” said Monsanto’s Tom Adams.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Indeed, most traditional genetically engineered traits take years and cost millions to produce (an average of $\u003ca href=\"https://croplife.org/wp-content/uploads/pdf_files/Getting-a-Biotech-Crop-to-Market-Phillips-McDougall-Study.pdf\">136 million\u003c/a> to be exact). So bringing that number down could bring more constituents into the fold, despite the consolidation at the top.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But seeds produced this way will still be subject to strict intellectual property fines, says Gurian-Sherman. “[CRISPR] won’t be as controllable by the big companies, but the patenting (or lack thereof) could really be a limiting factor for smaller companies,” he said. Case in point, a non-exclusive license to use CRISPR/Cas9 is valued at \u003ca href=\"https://www.forbes.com/sites/jacobsherkow/2017/02/21/how-much-is-a-crispr-patent-license-worth/#141d34066b77\">$265 million\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, if that license is used to create a handful of seed traits, it could be more than worth the investment for a company like Monsanto—particularly if it can deliver on sought-after traits such as drought tolerance. And it might lead one to deduce that a newly merged company such as Monsanto-Bayer would use gene editing to bring down its overall R&D budget.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But that’s not necessarily the case, says Montenegro. In addition to facing pressure from the Trump Administration to spend mightily in the U.S., she points to an economic phenomenon called \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jevons_paradox\">Jevons paradox\u003c/a>, wherein technology makes a process more efficient, but that efficiency ends up leading to increasing demand. (Jevon first observed the phenomenon while observing the coal industry of the 19th Century.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another important question is whether this more accessible technology will be put to use to create seeds designed for alternative or more sustainable farming systems.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Montenegro says she has heard from one plant breeder at the University of Minnesota who was interested in using CRISPR/Cas9 for \u003ca href=\"http://open-pollinated-seeds.org.uk/participatory-plant-breeding/\">participatory plant breeding\u003c/a>—a tactic involving farmers that is often used in the developing world—and to breed plants that could be amenable to diversified organic farming systems. But she says it’s not likely that a wider playing field will change the basic premise of the bulk of the work done using gene-editing technology—which is to engineer seeds used on large-scale industrial farms.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“While I don’t want to foreclose the possibility of using CRISPR for agroecology, [companies and institutions] are underinvesting and undercutting basic agroecology research to such a large degree that even the lower-hanging fruit hasn’t yet been picked,” Montenegro said. This “massive asymmetry” makes her doubtful that the technology will help researchers tread new paths when it comes to sustainable practices.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Gurian-Sherman is no more optimistic. “There are ways you can breed or adapt crops for sustainable agricultural systems that don’t rely on inputs like fertilizers and pesticides as much,” he said. “You can breed crops that attract natural enemies, or take advantage of the slower release of organic nutrients from cover crops and manure. I can go on and on about traits that are valuable to sustainable farming. But that’s not going to be of interest to these companies because they’re actually antithetical to their business models.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Consumers Union’s Hansen says the current excitement about gene editing reminds him of the very early days or genetic engineering. “In the late 80s and early 90s, they were saying they’d be able to do everything with GE. Thirty years later, all you have is herbicide-tolerant plants and Bt plants. Or that’s the vast majority.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This story was created in partnership with \u003ca href=\"https://itvs.org/\">ITVS\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>About the Author\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nTwilight Greenaway is the Managing Editor of Civil Eats. Her articles about food and farming have appeared in The New York Times, NPR.org, The Guardian, TakePart, Modern Farmer, Gastronomica and on Grist, where she served as the food editor from 2011-2012. See more at \u003ca href=\"http://www.twilightgreenaway.com/\">TwilightGreenaway.com\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Gene editing technology is being heralded as a game-changer, but it raises serious questions as five of the Big Six agriculture and chemical companies seek to merge.",
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"description": "Gene editing technology is being heralded as a game-changer, but it raises serious questions as five of the Big Six agriculture and chemical companies seek to merge.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>When the CEOs of both Monsanto and Bayer met with Donald Trump to talk about their potential merger just three days before the inauguration, they made some \u003ca href=\"https://www.bloomberg.com/politics/articles/2017-01-17/bayer-to-invest-8-billion-and-add-3-000-jobs-trump-aide-says\">big promises\u003c/a>. If the union between the world’s largest seed company and the German multinational chemical, pharmaceutical, and life-sciences company is blessed by antitrust regulators, the companies have pledged to add 3,000 high-tech American jobs and to combine—rather than consolidate and trim—their R&D budgets to the tune of $16 billion over the next six years, or $2.7 billion a year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The two companies have been locked in a dance since May 2016, when Monsanto \u003ca href=\"https://www.wsj.com/articles/monsanto-rejects-bayer-merger-offer-says-its-open-to-talks-1464110057\">rejected\u003c/a> Bayer’s initial $62 billion offer. Then, last fall, the merger reappeared in the news in a noteworthy chain of events.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On September 14, Bayer upped its offer to $66 billion and Monsanto accepted, putting a third major seed company merger on the table, beside ChemChina’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.wsj.com/articles/chemchina-offers-more-than-43-billion-for-syngenta-1454480529\">$43 billion takeover\u003c/a> of Syngenta and Dow Chemical’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.bloomberg.com/news/articles/2017-01-24/dupont-earnings-top-estimates-on-sales-of-plastics-to-carmakers\">intended merger\u003c/a> with DuPont. On the day it was announced, the \u003cem>Washington Post\u003c/em> \u003ca href=\"https://www.washingtonpost.com/news/business/wp/2016/09/14/bayer-and-monsanto-merge-in-mega-deal-aimed-at-domi-worlds-food-supply/?utm_term=.70f457ae8a04\">called the Bayer-Monsanto deal\u003c/a> the “mega-deal that could reshape [the] world’s food supply.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Less than a week later, spokespeople for the companies behind all three mergers were asked to \u003ca href=\"https://www.judiciary.senate.gov/meetings/consolidation-and-competition-in-the-us-seed-and-agrochemical-industry\">testify\u003c/a> before the senate judiciary committee, on what senator Chuck Grassley (R-Iowa) called a “\u003ca href=\"http://bigstory.ap.org/article/05fc5120c295442fbc7c0f2a11ce19cd/senate-panel-scrutinize-proposed-bayer-monsanto-merger\">merger tsunami\u003c/a>.” Then, just two days later, Monsanto \u003ca href=\"http://news.monsanto.com/press-release/corporate/monsanto-announces-global-licensing-agreement-broad-institute-key-genome-edi\">announced\u003c/a> it had licensed the rights to use CRISPR/Cas9 gene editing—a technology that has been \u003ca href=\"http://www.newyorker.com/magazine/2015/11/16/the-gene-hackers\">called\u003c/a> the “Model T of genetics” for its power to change the way we live.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This rapid-fire timing may have been a coincidence, but it also may be a sign of what’s to come. And it’s just one of many indications that CRISPR/Cas9 and other next-generation gene editing technologies will likely be at the forefront of the seed industry in the years ahead. Some even see gene editing, which is said to be simpler, less expensive, and more consumer-friendly than traditional genetic engineering, as one factor \u003ca href=\"http://www.theepochtimes.com/n3/2162211-why-crispr-is-key-to-massive-agribusiness-consolidations/\">driving\u003c/a> the mergers. And while that’s up for debate, it’s clearly an important part of the strategy for companies looking to control, and profit from, the world’s seeds.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Last week the European Union \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2017/04/05/business/syngenta-chemchina-takeover.html?mwrsm=Email&_r=0\">cleared the way\u003c/a> for the ChemChina–Syngenta takeover, suggesting the other two mergers may be imminent. If that happens, the resulting three companies would control nearly 60 percent of global seedstocks (including as much as 80 percent of U.S. corn seeds) and 70 percent of the global pesticide market. And these companies are also making a bid to control much more than seeds and pesticides. Monsanto, for example, is already making a play to control many other facets of modern agriculture—including tools for precision planting and high-tech \u003ca href=\"https://techcrunch.com/2013/10/02/monsanto-acquires-weather-big-data-company-climate-corporation-for-930m/\">weather prediction\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So while much of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.nationalgeographic.com/magazine/2016/08/dna-crispr-gene-editing-science-ethics/\">media coverage\u003c/a> of \u003ca href=\"http://gizmodo.com/everything-you-need-to-know-about-crispr-the-new-tool-1702114381\">gene editing\u003c/a> has pointed to its potential to break molds and change the genetic playing field, when it comes to agriculture, it will likely follow a more familiar path: CRISPR and other similar technology will most likely be used by scientists mainly to continue developing seeds that withstand consistent doses of pesticides on large, industrialized farms.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Monsanto has been conducting research with genome-editing techniques for years, and we are excited to be integrating additional technology from licensing partners in to this body of work,” Tom Adams, biotechnology lead for Monsanto, said in an email. Over the past year, the company has announced several licensing agreements that will allow it to access gene-editing technologies, such as CRISPR/Cas9 and CRISPR-Cpf1 (which is said to be \u003ca href=\"http://www.nature.com/articles/ncomms14406\">more precise\u003c/a>), as well as a tool from Dow AgroScience called EXZACT™ Precision Technology\u003csup>®\u003c/sup> Platform\u003cu>,\u003c/u> among others.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Although Adams said this work is still in its early days, he added, “we believe that genome-editing techniques have great potential to improve and unlock capabilities across our leading germplasm and genome libraries to enable a wide variety of improvements across crop systems.” However, he added, “We do not view it as a replacement for plant biotechnology.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>SEED: The Untold Story will premiere on the PBS series \u003ci>Independent Lens\u003c/i> on \u003cspan class=\"aBn\" tabindex=\"0\" data-term=\"goog_1829742120\">\u003cspan class=\"aQJ\">April 17, 2017 at 10PM\u003c/span>\u003c/span>. \u003ca href=\"http://www.pbs.org/independentlens/films/seed-the-untold-story/\">Learn more\u003c/a>. \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/3ys0fgZ7hmA'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/3ys0fgZ7hmA'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Gene Editing vs. Genetic Engineering\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Since 1996, Monsanto has released a series of genetically engineered herbicide-resistant seeds, beginning with Roundup Ready soybeans in 1996, and moving on to corn, cotton, sugar beets, canola, and more. Today, Roundup Ready crops account for over \u003ca href=\"https://www.ers.usda.gov/data-products/adoption-of-genetically-engineered-crops-in-the-us/recent-trends-in-ge-adoption.aspx\">94 percent of the soybeans and 89 percent of the corn\u003c/a> grown in the United States.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As these products have come to dominate the farm landscape, weeds have also become resistant to Roundup. According to the \u003ca href=\"http://wssa.net/wp-content/uploads/WSSA-Fact-Sheet-on-Superweeds_16-Sep-2014.pdf\">Weed Science Society of America\u003c/a>, “overreliance on herbicides with a single mechanism of action to control certain weeds has led to the selection of weeds resistant to that mechanism of action.” Similarly, incidents of pesticide resistance have also \u003ca href=\"https://www.wsj.com/articles/limits-sought-on-gmo-corn-as-pest-resistance-grows-1425587078\">been on the rise\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116814\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/170410-crispr-2.jpg\" alt=\"Roundup\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116814\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/170410-crispr-2.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/170410-crispr-2-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/170410-crispr-2-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/170410-crispr-2-375x281.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Roundup \u003ccite>( \u003ca href=\"https://www.flickr.com/photos/jeepersmedia/26673445341\">Mike Mozart\u003c/a>)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As a result, farmers often find themselves on what critics call a \u003ca href=\"http://www.panna.org/gmos-pesticides-profit/pesticide-treadmill\">pesticide treadmill\u003c/a>, where each new form of resistance requires a more powerful solution. Companies have spent the last several years working on seeds with “stacked traits,” which combine two or more genes of interest into a single plant. In the case of Monsanto, that has meant, for instance, \u003ca href=\"https://www.fool.com/investing/2016/09/03/are-you-ready-for-monsantos-1-billion-herbicide-fa.aspx\">breeding seeds\u003c/a> that tolerate both glyphosate and a second herbicide called dicamba.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The main difference between gene editing and classical genetic engineering is that the former allows scientists to manipulate the genetic makeup of an organism—by changing or “knocking out” the function of a gene—without introducing genes from other organisms. This last part is key, because it’s often the combination of parts of various organisms—such as genes from bacteria added to corn to create herbicide resistance or genes from an arctic flounder added to strawberries to make them able to withstand cold weather—that has made the public wary of GMOs in their food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the image of CRISPR/Cas9 and other gene editing tools as an “entirely pristine” technology that rules out all foreign DNA isn’t entirely accurate, says Maywa Montenegro, a Ph.D. candidate in Environmental Science, Policy, and Management at University of California, Berkeley.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“They aren’t wrong in saying CRISPR doesn’t need to introduce foreign DNA, but it absolutely can. That’s what it’s very good at,” she said. “But it’s also important for people to understand that you can create huge, impactful changes in a plant’s functioning without introducing anything foreign.” De-activating, or knocking out, a gene function, can significantly change the plants and animals involved.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the case of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.nature.com/nbt/journal/v32/n9/full/nbt.2969.html\">mildew-resistant wheat\u003c/a> developed in China, for instance, scientists were able to introduce “targeted mutations” using CRISPR/Cas9 without inserting new genes. In another example, Cibus, a San Diego-based startup, has produced (and commercialized) an \u003ca href=\"https://www.cibus.com/\">herbicide-resistant canola\u003c/a> using another early gene-editing technique called Rapid Trait Development System (RTDS).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The company also \u003ca href=\"http://www.agriculture.com/technology/how-gene-editing-will-change-agriculture\">says\u003c/a> it has other crops, such as herbicide-resistant rice and flax seeds, in the pipeline. DuPont is also working with the Berkeley-based start-up Caribou Biosciences (founded by \u003ca href=\"http://www.dailycal.org/2016/02/18/caribou-biosciences-co-founded-campus-researcher-jennifer-doudna-receives-intellectual-property-rights-crispr-technology/\">Jennifer Doudna\u003c/a>, one of the founders and patent-holders of CRISPR/Cas9 technology) to develop gene-edited, drought-resistant corn and wheat varieties.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The most widely discussed food produced using gene editing today is a \u003ca href=\"http://agsci.psu.edu/magazine/articles/2016/fall-winter/a-crispr-mushroom\">non-browning mushroom\u003c/a> developed using CRISPR/Cas9 at Pennsylvania State University. The mushroom received a great deal of media attention last spring, when the Penn State scientists received \u003ca href=\"https://www.aphis.usda.gov/biotechnology/downloads/reg_loi/15-321-01_air_response_signed.pdf\">a letter\u003c/a> from the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) informing them that the agency would not be regulating its field testing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the time, a number of media outlets reported that the mushroom had “\u003ca href=\"http://www.nature.com/news/gene-edited-crispr-mushroom-escapes-us-regulation-1.19754\">escaped regulation\u003c/a>,” suggesting that gene editing was not only remarkably different than tradition genetic engineering in crucial ways, but that it also might be the key to avoiding government oversight. But on both accounts, the reality may be less cut and dried.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Will Gene-Edited Seeds be Regulated?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Doug Gurian-Sherman, director of sustainable agriculture and senior scientist for the \u003ca href=\"http://www.centerforfoodsafety.org/\">Center for Food Safety\u003c/a> (CFS), says the letter USDA sent to Penn State about the non-browning mushroom was just one of over 30 that went out at that time in response to requests by a variety of entities working with gene-editing technology.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While the USDA did clearly mention the fact that the mushroom didn’t contain any foreign DNA in its response, that wasn’t the only reason it abdicated its regulatory authority. Just as important, it seems, is the fact that the mushroom was not in any way considered a “plant pest.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You see, when it comes to regulating GMO crops, plant pests have been at the heart of the USDA’s regulation approach; all other genetically engineered products fall under the auspices of either the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) or the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA). (A document from the Pew Charitable Trusts includes a \u003ca href=\"http://www.pewtrusts.org/~/media/legacy/uploadedfiles/wwwpewtrustsorg/reports/food_and_biotechnology/hhsbiotech0901pdf.pdf\">handy chart\u003c/a> detailing which agency is supposed to regulate what types of organisms.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In fact, the \u003ca href=\"https://www.aphis.usda.gov/biotechnology/downloads/reg_loi/15-321-01_air_response_signed.pdf\">letter\u003c/a> sent to Penn State concluded with this sentence: “Please be advised that the white button mushroom variety described in your letter may still be subject to other regulatory authorities such as the FDA or EPA.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So gene editing was by no means the only factor at hand. “As soon as they put genes in from any plant pest they would immediately become regulated by USDA,” said Gurian-Sherman.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, exactly how the FDA plans to regulate gene editing is yet to be seen. Since January, the agency has been \u003ca href=\"https://s3.amazonaws.com/public-inspection.federalregister.gov/2017-00840.pdf\">seeking public input\u003c/a> on the topic in both medical research and agriculture. One core question at hand is whether gene editing will be considered “genetic engineering.” And at a time when a growing number of consumers want to know exactly what’s in their food—and around \u003ca href=\"http://abcnews.go.com/Technology/story?id=97567&page=1\">90 percent\u003c/a> of Americans say they want to see genetically engineered ingredients in food labeled—this is as much a question of consumer demand as it is a question of regulation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We already see lots of people who are supportive of genetic engineering, calling [gene editing] ‘advanced breeding,’” said Gurian-Sherman. But, he added, “In terms of most of the legal definitions of genetic engineering that are out there right now, it applies. I think it is a legitimate area for argument whether this is generally safer or not or more acceptable, but they clearly don’t want to label it genetic engineering.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to Michael Hansen, senior staff scientist at Consumers Union, “the FDA’s documents now \u003ca href=\"https://www.fda.gov/Food/GuidanceRegulation/GuidanceDocumentsRegulatoryInformation/ucm059098.htm\">clearly say\u003c/a> their definition of bioengineering is the same as the \u003ca href=\"http://civileats.com/2017/04/10/monsantos-driverless-car-is-crispr-gene-editing-driving-seed-consolidation/definition%2520of%2520modern%2520biotechnolgy\">definition\u003c/a> of modern biotechnology held by \u003ca href=\"http://www.fao.org/fao-who-codexalimentarius/en/\">Codex Alimentarius\u003c/a>.” That’s the “Food Code” established by the U.N. Food and Agriculture Organization and the World Health Organization. The Codex definition refers to any organism made using “the application of in vitro nucleic acid techniques.” And since gene editing does precisely that, Hansen believes the answer is clear: Gene editing should be seen as genetic engineering.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But not everyone agrees. In an \u003ca href=\"http://www.nature.com/ng/journal/v48/n2/full/ng.3505.html\">editorial\u003c/a> last January, for instance, the editors of \u003cem>Nature\u003c/em> endorsed “the principle of transparency in the production of genome-edited crops and livestock…with no further need for regulation or distinction of these goods from the products of traditional breeding.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>U.C. Berkeley’s Montenegro describes CRISPR/Cas9 as a kind of Swiss army knife with the potential to be paradigm-shifting. But, she adds that, for that reason, it calls for a lot more scrutiny and regulatory oversight\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hansen agrees. Using gene editing, he said, “You can identify a key sequence you want to cut. But wherever that sequence occurs in the genome, you would get a cut. And you will also get a cut at sequences that look similar.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hansen also points to the fact that scientists have experienced at least some \u003ca href=\"http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/febs.13586/full\">off-target effects\u003c/a> with most gene editing technology to date. He points to the case of an \u003ca href=\"http://www.nature.com/news/hiv-overcomes-crispr-gene-editing-attack-1.19712\">effort to destroy the HIV virus\u003c/a> with CRISPR/Cas9. Although scientists engineered T-cells with CRISPR to recognize and destroy HIV, he said, “it took the HIV just a couple of weeks to evolve resistance to CRISPR.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And in a recent effort to \u003ca href=\"http://arep.med.harvard.edu/pdf/Ostrov_Church_2016.pdf\">artificially synthesize\u003c/a> a new genome for \u003cem>E. coli\u003c/em>, a group of scientists decided not to use gene editing because, they wrote, “these strategies…likely would introduce off-target mutations.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Despite these concerns, CFS’s Gurian-Sherman says there are big questions about how regulatory bodies under the Trump administration will choose to respond to the technology. For one, he says, gene editing could be much harder to test for.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Detecting [transgenic] engineered changes, for a molecular biologist is really, really easy,” he said. But some of these [gene edits] are not going to leave much of a fingerprint, if at all, and they’re going to be very hard to trace,” he said. “So something like the kind of testing the \u003ca href=\"https://www.nongmoproject.org/\">Non-GMO Project\u003c/a> does probably wouldn’t be possible in foods edited with CRISPR.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ultimately, Monsanto appears to be preparing for the possibility of regulation. When Lux Research, an independent technology research and advisory firm, looked into the Monsanto-Bayer merger in December, they surmised that gene editing was an important part of Monsanto’s appeal to Bayer, but that it was by no means the only technology they’re banking on.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Monsanto’s advantage in the space is that they’re super diverse and they have their hands in all the cookie jars,” said Laura Lee, the author of \u003ca href=\"https://members.luxresearchinc.com/research/report/21808\">Lux’s report\u003c/a>. “So they’d be able to advance traits using CRISPR, or if the regulatory bodies step in and decide to classify CRISPR as genetic modification or put a harmful label on it, they’ll have of other options.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>“More Accessible” Technology\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While CRISPR and other gene editing tools are seen as more affordable and more efficient, they’re also being touted as more accessible than traditional genetic engineering—and they are already being used in small private laboratories.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We think the fact that this science is accessible to and being explored by many researchers across the public and private sectors is exciting—and will only improve the types of products that will ultimately be accessible to farmers,” said Monsanto’s Tom Adams.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Indeed, most traditional genetically engineered traits take years and cost millions to produce (an average of $\u003ca href=\"https://croplife.org/wp-content/uploads/pdf_files/Getting-a-Biotech-Crop-to-Market-Phillips-McDougall-Study.pdf\">136 million\u003c/a> to be exact). So bringing that number down could bring more constituents into the fold, despite the consolidation at the top.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But seeds produced this way will still be subject to strict intellectual property fines, says Gurian-Sherman. “[CRISPR] won’t be as controllable by the big companies, but the patenting (or lack thereof) could really be a limiting factor for smaller companies,” he said. Case in point, a non-exclusive license to use CRISPR/Cas9 is valued at \u003ca href=\"https://www.forbes.com/sites/jacobsherkow/2017/02/21/how-much-is-a-crispr-patent-license-worth/#141d34066b77\">$265 million\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, if that license is used to create a handful of seed traits, it could be more than worth the investment for a company like Monsanto—particularly if it can deliver on sought-after traits such as drought tolerance. And it might lead one to deduce that a newly merged company such as Monsanto-Bayer would use gene editing to bring down its overall R&D budget.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But that’s not necessarily the case, says Montenegro. In addition to facing pressure from the Trump Administration to spend mightily in the U.S., she points to an economic phenomenon called \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jevons_paradox\">Jevons paradox\u003c/a>, wherein technology makes a process more efficient, but that efficiency ends up leading to increasing demand. (Jevon first observed the phenomenon while observing the coal industry of the 19th Century.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another important question is whether this more accessible technology will be put to use to create seeds designed for alternative or more sustainable farming systems.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Montenegro says she has heard from one plant breeder at the University of Minnesota who was interested in using CRISPR/Cas9 for \u003ca href=\"http://open-pollinated-seeds.org.uk/participatory-plant-breeding/\">participatory plant breeding\u003c/a>—a tactic involving farmers that is often used in the developing world—and to breed plants that could be amenable to diversified organic farming systems. But she says it’s not likely that a wider playing field will change the basic premise of the bulk of the work done using gene-editing technology—which is to engineer seeds used on large-scale industrial farms.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“While I don’t want to foreclose the possibility of using CRISPR for agroecology, [companies and institutions] are underinvesting and undercutting basic agroecology research to such a large degree that even the lower-hanging fruit hasn’t yet been picked,” Montenegro said. This “massive asymmetry” makes her doubtful that the technology will help researchers tread new paths when it comes to sustainable practices.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Gurian-Sherman is no more optimistic. “There are ways you can breed or adapt crops for sustainable agricultural systems that don’t rely on inputs like fertilizers and pesticides as much,” he said. “You can breed crops that attract natural enemies, or take advantage of the slower release of organic nutrients from cover crops and manure. I can go on and on about traits that are valuable to sustainable farming. But that’s not going to be of interest to these companies because they’re actually antithetical to their business models.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Consumers Union’s Hansen says the current excitement about gene editing reminds him of the very early days or genetic engineering. “In the late 80s and early 90s, they were saying they’d be able to do everything with GE. Thirty years later, all you have is herbicide-tolerant plants and Bt plants. Or that’s the vast majority.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This story was created in partnership with \u003ca href=\"https://itvs.org/\">ITVS\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>About the Author\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nTwilight Greenaway is the Managing Editor of Civil Eats. Her articles about food and farming have appeared in The New York Times, NPR.org, The Guardian, TakePart, Modern Farmer, Gastronomica and on Grist, where she served as the food editor from 2011-2012. See more at \u003ca href=\"http://www.twilightgreenaway.com/\">TwilightGreenaway.com\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Jacques Pépin: The Art of Craft Reveals How a French Chef Became an ‘American Master’",
"title": "Jacques Pépin: The Art of Craft Reveals How a French Chef Became an ‘American Master’",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>There are only two things wrong with Peter L. Stein's \u003cem>American Masters\u003c/em> documentary \u003ca href=\"http://www.pbs.org/wnet/americanmasters/jacques-pepin-art-craft-film/8435/\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>Jacques Pépin: The Art of Craft\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, which premieres at San Francisco's Castro Theatre on Tuesday, April 25, 2017 and will premiere nationally on PBS stations Friday, May 26, at 9pm. First, it's not long enough; Pépin is such a charming character that -- especially in film digest form -- he leaves us wanting more. The film fizzes, pops and then is gone, like the delicate bubbles in a fine champagne. Second, this \"American\" master's French accent is still pretty thick, even after all these years. Though that is partially the point. In a political climate that puzzlingly discounts the contributions of immigrants, Pépin's adventure is a buoyant illustration of the catalytic grit, wit and innovation one newcomer can bring to an America still dreaming. Stein says, \"It's sometimes really nice to remember that people come to these shores, do good in the world and build something that actually changes culture.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Needle scratch. Rewind. Whenever we revisit the lives of celebrity chefs whose revolution eventually stocked our grocery store shelves with foods we now take for granted, we must first imagine the landscape BEFORE they arrived. We have to visit the U.S. supermarket with a young Jacques Pépin to discover with horror the only mushrooms on offer come in a can. The industrial practices that fed the troops in WWII have been weaponized to feed the masses and to make \"daily household drudgery\" (like cooking) a thing of the past. Everything is convenient, pre-sliced and pre-packaged. This idea is repeated in several recent documentaries, but given my own proximity to Rainbow Grocery and Whole Foods market, I still find it hard to grasp.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116730\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2100-Pepin-family-in-front-of-restaurant-1940s-1920.jpg\" alt=\"Jacques Pépin (left), his brother Roland, his mother Jeannette, his younger brother Bichon, and aunts and uncles in front of the family restaurant, Chez Pépin.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1347\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116730\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2100-Pepin-family-in-front-of-restaurant-1940s-1920.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2100-Pepin-family-in-front-of-restaurant-1940s-1920-160x112.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2100-Pepin-family-in-front-of-restaurant-1940s-1920-800x561.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2100-Pepin-family-in-front-of-restaurant-1940s-1920-768x539.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2100-Pepin-family-in-front-of-restaurant-1940s-1920-1020x716.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2100-Pepin-family-in-front-of-restaurant-1940s-1920-1180x828.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2100-Pepin-family-in-front-of-restaurant-1940s-1920-960x674.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2100-Pepin-family-in-front-of-restaurant-1940s-1920-240x168.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2100-Pepin-family-in-front-of-restaurant-1940s-1920-375x263.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2100-Pepin-family-in-front-of-restaurant-1940s-1920-520x365.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jacques Pépin (left), his brother Roland, his mother Jeannette, his younger brother Bichon, and aunts and uncles in front of the family restaurant, Chez Pépin. \u003ccite>(Courtesy Jacques Pépin)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Pépin was no slouch when he arrived in the U.S. in the late 1950s. The film uses re-enactment, family photos and archival footage to cover the chef's early life. His first kitchen experience was in one of the family restaurants his mother opened after the Second World War, which the teenage Pépin parlayed into apprenticeships at some of the finest establishments in Paris. When he was drafted into the French navy, Pépin's work ethic and creativity eventually garnered him the position as personal chef to three French heads of state, including Charles de Gaulle.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116731\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JeunePepin_hires-tiff-ret02-1920-1020x1403.jpg\" alt=\"Jacques Pépin as a young apprentice in front of his mother’s restaurant, Chez Pépin.\" width=\"640\" height=\"880\" class=\"size-large wp-image-116731\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JeunePepin_hires-tiff-ret02-1920-1020x1403.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JeunePepin_hires-tiff-ret02-1920-160x220.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JeunePepin_hires-tiff-ret02-1920-800x1100.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JeunePepin_hires-tiff-ret02-1920-768x1056.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JeunePepin_hires-tiff-ret02-1920-1180x1623.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JeunePepin_hires-tiff-ret02-1920-960x1320.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JeunePepin_hires-tiff-ret02-1920-240x330.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JeunePepin_hires-tiff-ret02-1920-375x516.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JeunePepin_hires-tiff-ret02-1920-520x715.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jacques Pépin as a young apprentice in front of his mother’s restaurant, Chez Pépin. \u003ccite>(Courtesy Jacques Pépin)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116729\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1022-Pepin-brothers-1957-Navy-1920.jpg\" alt=\"Jacques Pépin (left) with his brothers Bichon and Roland, 1957.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1365\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116729\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1022-Pepin-brothers-1957-Navy-1920.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1022-Pepin-brothers-1957-Navy-1920-160x114.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1022-Pepin-brothers-1957-Navy-1920-800x569.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1022-Pepin-brothers-1957-Navy-1920-768x546.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1022-Pepin-brothers-1957-Navy-1920-1020x725.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1022-Pepin-brothers-1957-Navy-1920-1180x839.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1022-Pepin-brothers-1957-Navy-1920-960x683.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1022-Pepin-brothers-1957-Navy-1920-240x171.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1022-Pepin-brothers-1957-Navy-1920-375x267.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1022-Pepin-brothers-1957-Navy-1920-520x370.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jacques Pépin (left) with his brothers Bichon and Roland, 1957. \u003ccite>(Courtesy Jacques Pépin)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Once his military service was over, Pépin headed to New York, landing a job at Le Pavillon, referred to in the film as the \"best restaurant in the U.S.\" at the time. This was probably where the Kennedys came to appreciate his talents, so much so that, after winning the 1960 presidential election, they asked him to serve as White House chef. Another needle scratch. Pépin turned down the job! He chose instead to become Director of Research in the test kitchen for Howard Johnson's, the largest restaurant chain in the U.S. at the time. This move is key to the current celebration of Pépin as a distinctively American master. After serving in the world's great temples of haute cuisine, he decided to learn about mass production, creating recipes for Beef Bourguignon that could be produced in 500 gallon vats and putting the French back in French Fries. A decade later, Pépin left that post to strike out on his own, opening a very popular lunch spot in mid-town Manhattan, La Potagerie, which only served soup.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116748\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1754px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1068_Pepin011_Kitchen_JeanClaude.jpg\" alt=\"Jacques Pepin and his best friend, Jean-Claude Szurdak, in an early magazine photo shoot. \" width=\"1754\" height=\"1276\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116748\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1068_Pepin011_Kitchen_JeanClaude.jpg 1754w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1068_Pepin011_Kitchen_JeanClaude-160x116.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1068_Pepin011_Kitchen_JeanClaude-800x582.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1068_Pepin011_Kitchen_JeanClaude-768x559.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1068_Pepin011_Kitchen_JeanClaude-1020x742.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1068_Pepin011_Kitchen_JeanClaude-1180x858.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1068_Pepin011_Kitchen_JeanClaude-960x698.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1068_Pepin011_Kitchen_JeanClaude-240x175.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1068_Pepin011_Kitchen_JeanClaude-375x273.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1068_Pepin011_Kitchen_JeanClaude-520x378.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1754px) 100vw, 1754px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jacques Pepin and his best friend, Jean-Claude Szurdak, in an early magazine photo shoot. \u003ccite>(Courtesy Jacques Pépin)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116750\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 611px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2170-JP-and-Franey-at-Hojo-commissary-NEW.jpg\" alt=\"Jacques Pépin and Pierre Franey at the Howard Johnsons test kitchen, 1970s.\" width=\"611\" height=\"535\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116750\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2170-JP-and-Franey-at-Hojo-commissary-NEW.jpg 611w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2170-JP-and-Franey-at-Hojo-commissary-NEW-160x140.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2170-JP-and-Franey-at-Hojo-commissary-NEW-240x210.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2170-JP-and-Franey-at-Hojo-commissary-NEW-375x328.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2170-JP-and-Franey-at-Hojo-commissary-NEW-520x455.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 611px) 100vw, 611px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jacques Pépin and Pierre Franey at the Howard Johnsons test kitchen, 1970s. \u003ccite>(Courtesy Pierre Franey Estate)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Eventually, the necessity arose for Pépin to reinvent himself once more. He wrote a cookbook, \u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Technique-Illustrated-Fundamental-Techniques-Cooking/dp/067179020X/ref=sr_1_2?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1491927105&sr=1-2&keywords=la+technique+jacques+pepin\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>La Technique\u003c/em>\u003c/a> that taught Americans much-needed, from what he had observed, basic techniques for food preparation. He followed the success of that first book with another, \u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Methode-Illustrated-Fundamental-Techniques-Hardcover/dp/B011WAFZH4/ref=sr_1_3?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1491927237&sr=1-3&keywords=la+methode+jacques+pepin\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>La Methode\u003c/em>\u003c/a>; the two books were essentially about empowering the home cook. They were revolutionary at the time, demonstrating food basics through step-by-step photographic layouts. Pépin then hit the road, touring extensively to promote the work, which was the only option in an age before cable networks devoted exclusively to food. Exploiting his suave good looks, his natural charm and humor, not to mention that sexy accent, Pépin became the Tom Jones of cooking. Women flocked to his public appearances and swooned. This was the 1970s and the U.S. was pretty hot for all things French. Anthony Bourdain summarizes this idea with the quote that opens the film, \"Before you have sex with another human being, you should be capable of preparing them an omelet to Jacques Pépin's standards the next morning.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116744\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-garden-800x1150.jpg\" alt=\"Jacques Pépin in his garden.\" width=\"800\" height=\"1150\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-116744\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-garden-800x1150.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-garden-160x230.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-garden-768x1104.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-garden-960x1380.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-garden-240x345.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-garden-375x539.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-garden-520x748.jpg 520w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-garden.jpg 969w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jacques Pépin in his garden. \u003ccite>(Courtesy Jacques Pépin)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>So of course TV came calling, most particularly KQED, which produced -- with the very same Peter L. Stein at the helm -- Pépin's first successful cooking series for public TV. While he is extremely accomplished, Pépin makes cooking look easy, without -- paradoxically -- pulling focus from the centrality of work. His amazingly expressive hands communicate volumes -- mastery, wit, joy -- with every small gesture. His emphasis on technique is about developing know-how in your hands, which is communicated through the grace of his own movements. The chef's knife is a baton; the paring knife is a pen. Pépin creates art and music with food, orchestrating the meal as a communion between friends.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116747\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1408px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2054-JP-cooking-demo-holding-mic-NEW.jpg\" alt=\"Jacques Pépin teaching a cooking class in the 1970s.\" width=\"1408\" height=\"1483\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116747\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2054-JP-cooking-demo-holding-mic-NEW.jpg 1408w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2054-JP-cooking-demo-holding-mic-NEW-160x169.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2054-JP-cooking-demo-holding-mic-NEW-800x843.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2054-JP-cooking-demo-holding-mic-NEW-768x809.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2054-JP-cooking-demo-holding-mic-NEW-1020x1074.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2054-JP-cooking-demo-holding-mic-NEW-1180x1243.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2054-JP-cooking-demo-holding-mic-NEW-960x1011.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2054-JP-cooking-demo-holding-mic-NEW-240x253.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2054-JP-cooking-demo-holding-mic-NEW-375x395.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2054-JP-cooking-demo-holding-mic-NEW-520x548.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1408px) 100vw, 1408px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jacques Pépin teaching a cooking class in the 1970s. \u003ccite>(Courtesy Jacques Pépin)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Pépin remained philosophically consistent on TV. With empowerment as his central goal, he utilized each half-hour segment to prepare a dish from start to finish, revealing how cooking is essentially technique and practice. He cemented this idea with another series wherein he taught his daughter Claudine to cook on the small screen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116755\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 900px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-claudine.jpg\" alt=\" Jacques Pépin and his daughter Claudine in his television series (L to R): Today's Gourmet, Jacques Pépin 's Kitchen: Cooking with Claudine, and Chez Pépin.\" width=\"900\" height=\"223\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116755\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-claudine.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-claudine-160x40.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-claudine-800x198.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-claudine-768x190.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-claudine-240x59.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-claudine-375x93.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-claudine-520x129.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 900px) 100vw, 900px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jacques Pépin and his daughter Claudine in his television series (L to R): Today's Gourmet, Jacques Pépin 's Kitchen: Cooking with Claudine, and Chez Pépin. \u003ccite>(screenshots from Jacques Pépin: The Art of Craft)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>But \u003cem>The Art of Craft\u003c/em> is more than just one man's success story. Ultimately, it communicates, with the same breezy charm as its subject, the effect one person can have on a whole culture. This is the crucial idea that seems missing from today's America. We are a stew waiting for that distinctive ingredient that makes everything pop.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pépin, along with a handful of other chefs like him, changed the way Americans perceived food. At one point, Pépin, nearing his 80th birthday, contemplates a wall filled with framed pictures of close friends and people who have been influential in his life. I realized then that his true accomplishment was not becoming a celebrity chef, writing cookbooks or teaching cooking techniques on TV, though they were the tools of his trade. His mission has always been to demonstrate the art of nurturing and the craft of building and fortifying community.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116752\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 953px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/Screen-shot-2017-04-12-at-2.49-NEW.jpg\" alt=\" Jacques Pépin nearing his 80th birthday, contemplates a wall filled with framed pictures of close friends and people who have been influential in his life.\" width=\"953\" height=\"530\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116752\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/Screen-shot-2017-04-12-at-2.49-NEW.jpg 953w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/Screen-shot-2017-04-12-at-2.49-NEW-160x89.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/Screen-shot-2017-04-12-at-2.49-NEW-800x445.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/Screen-shot-2017-04-12-at-2.49-NEW-768x427.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/Screen-shot-2017-04-12-at-2.49-NEW-240x133.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/Screen-shot-2017-04-12-at-2.49-NEW-375x209.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/Screen-shot-2017-04-12-at-2.49-NEW-520x289.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 953px) 100vw, 953px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jacques Pépin nearing his 80th birthday, contemplates a wall filled with framed pictures of close friends and people who have been influential in his life. \u003ccite>(screenshot from Jacques Pépin: The Art of Craft)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>This timely tribute to one immigrant's journey in the U.S. reminds us that change is as likely to arrive on our shores as it is to be home grown, given the right conditions. Everything worth having is worth working for and, as Pépin demonstrates, there are tried and true techniques that, with practice, will help us to master the art of living.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116732\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JP-with-book-DSC_7094-1920.jpg\" alt=\"Jacques Pépin (R), director Peter L. Stein (L), director of photography Vicente Franco, and sound engineer Jose Araujo, during the filming of Pépin’s American Masters documentary, 2016.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1282\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116732\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JP-with-book-DSC_7094-1920.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JP-with-book-DSC_7094-1920-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JP-with-book-DSC_7094-1920-800x534.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JP-with-book-DSC_7094-1920-768x513.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JP-with-book-DSC_7094-1920-1020x681.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JP-with-book-DSC_7094-1920-1180x788.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JP-with-book-DSC_7094-1920-960x641.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JP-with-book-DSC_7094-1920-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JP-with-book-DSC_7094-1920-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JP-with-book-DSC_7094-1920-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jacques Pépin (R), director Peter L. Stein (L), director of photography Vicente Franco, and sound engineer Jose Araujo, during the filming of Pépin’s American Masters documentary, 2016. \u003ccite>(Jennifer Huang )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>https://player.vimeo.com/video/211423771\u003cbr>\nDocumentary maker Peter L. Stein describes some of the special on- and off-screen challenges of bringing Jacques Pépin's story to the screen for PBS's American Masters, and recalls his longtime collaboration with Jacques as producer of many of his early public television series.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Watch a clip from the documentary in which Jacques' wife Gloria shares the story of how she met Jacques.\u003cbr>\nhttps://youtu.be/j0LazvHsuUE\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>There are only two things wrong with Peter L. Stein's \u003cem>American Masters\u003c/em> documentary \u003ca href=\"http://www.pbs.org/wnet/americanmasters/jacques-pepin-art-craft-film/8435/\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>Jacques Pépin: The Art of Craft\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, which premieres at San Francisco's Castro Theatre on Tuesday, April 25, 2017 and will premiere nationally on PBS stations Friday, May 26, at 9pm. First, it's not long enough; Pépin is such a charming character that -- especially in film digest form -- he leaves us wanting more. The film fizzes, pops and then is gone, like the delicate bubbles in a fine champagne. Second, this \"American\" master's French accent is still pretty thick, even after all these years. Though that is partially the point. In a political climate that puzzlingly discounts the contributions of immigrants, Pépin's adventure is a buoyant illustration of the catalytic grit, wit and innovation one newcomer can bring to an America still dreaming. Stein says, \"It's sometimes really nice to remember that people come to these shores, do good in the world and build something that actually changes culture.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Needle scratch. Rewind. Whenever we revisit the lives of celebrity chefs whose revolution eventually stocked our grocery store shelves with foods we now take for granted, we must first imagine the landscape BEFORE they arrived. We have to visit the U.S. supermarket with a young Jacques Pépin to discover with horror the only mushrooms on offer come in a can. The industrial practices that fed the troops in WWII have been weaponized to feed the masses and to make \"daily household drudgery\" (like cooking) a thing of the past. Everything is convenient, pre-sliced and pre-packaged. This idea is repeated in several recent documentaries, but given my own proximity to Rainbow Grocery and Whole Foods market, I still find it hard to grasp.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116730\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2100-Pepin-family-in-front-of-restaurant-1940s-1920.jpg\" alt=\"Jacques Pépin (left), his brother Roland, his mother Jeannette, his younger brother Bichon, and aunts and uncles in front of the family restaurant, Chez Pépin.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1347\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116730\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2100-Pepin-family-in-front-of-restaurant-1940s-1920.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2100-Pepin-family-in-front-of-restaurant-1940s-1920-160x112.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2100-Pepin-family-in-front-of-restaurant-1940s-1920-800x561.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2100-Pepin-family-in-front-of-restaurant-1940s-1920-768x539.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2100-Pepin-family-in-front-of-restaurant-1940s-1920-1020x716.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2100-Pepin-family-in-front-of-restaurant-1940s-1920-1180x828.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2100-Pepin-family-in-front-of-restaurant-1940s-1920-960x674.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2100-Pepin-family-in-front-of-restaurant-1940s-1920-240x168.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2100-Pepin-family-in-front-of-restaurant-1940s-1920-375x263.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2100-Pepin-family-in-front-of-restaurant-1940s-1920-520x365.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jacques Pépin (left), his brother Roland, his mother Jeannette, his younger brother Bichon, and aunts and uncles in front of the family restaurant, Chez Pépin. \u003ccite>(Courtesy Jacques Pépin)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Pépin was no slouch when he arrived in the U.S. in the late 1950s. The film uses re-enactment, family photos and archival footage to cover the chef's early life. His first kitchen experience was in one of the family restaurants his mother opened after the Second World War, which the teenage Pépin parlayed into apprenticeships at some of the finest establishments in Paris. When he was drafted into the French navy, Pépin's work ethic and creativity eventually garnered him the position as personal chef to three French heads of state, including Charles de Gaulle.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116731\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JeunePepin_hires-tiff-ret02-1920-1020x1403.jpg\" alt=\"Jacques Pépin as a young apprentice in front of his mother’s restaurant, Chez Pépin.\" width=\"640\" height=\"880\" class=\"size-large wp-image-116731\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JeunePepin_hires-tiff-ret02-1920-1020x1403.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JeunePepin_hires-tiff-ret02-1920-160x220.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JeunePepin_hires-tiff-ret02-1920-800x1100.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JeunePepin_hires-tiff-ret02-1920-768x1056.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JeunePepin_hires-tiff-ret02-1920-1180x1623.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JeunePepin_hires-tiff-ret02-1920-960x1320.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JeunePepin_hires-tiff-ret02-1920-240x330.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JeunePepin_hires-tiff-ret02-1920-375x516.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JeunePepin_hires-tiff-ret02-1920-520x715.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jacques Pépin as a young apprentice in front of his mother’s restaurant, Chez Pépin. \u003ccite>(Courtesy Jacques Pépin)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116729\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1022-Pepin-brothers-1957-Navy-1920.jpg\" alt=\"Jacques Pépin (left) with his brothers Bichon and Roland, 1957.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1365\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116729\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1022-Pepin-brothers-1957-Navy-1920.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1022-Pepin-brothers-1957-Navy-1920-160x114.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1022-Pepin-brothers-1957-Navy-1920-800x569.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1022-Pepin-brothers-1957-Navy-1920-768x546.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1022-Pepin-brothers-1957-Navy-1920-1020x725.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1022-Pepin-brothers-1957-Navy-1920-1180x839.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1022-Pepin-brothers-1957-Navy-1920-960x683.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1022-Pepin-brothers-1957-Navy-1920-240x171.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1022-Pepin-brothers-1957-Navy-1920-375x267.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1022-Pepin-brothers-1957-Navy-1920-520x370.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jacques Pépin (left) with his brothers Bichon and Roland, 1957. \u003ccite>(Courtesy Jacques Pépin)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Once his military service was over, Pépin headed to New York, landing a job at Le Pavillon, referred to in the film as the \"best restaurant in the U.S.\" at the time. This was probably where the Kennedys came to appreciate his talents, so much so that, after winning the 1960 presidential election, they asked him to serve as White House chef. Another needle scratch. Pépin turned down the job! He chose instead to become Director of Research in the test kitchen for Howard Johnson's, the largest restaurant chain in the U.S. at the time. This move is key to the current celebration of Pépin as a distinctively American master. After serving in the world's great temples of haute cuisine, he decided to learn about mass production, creating recipes for Beef Bourguignon that could be produced in 500 gallon vats and putting the French back in French Fries. A decade later, Pépin left that post to strike out on his own, opening a very popular lunch spot in mid-town Manhattan, La Potagerie, which only served soup.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116748\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1754px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1068_Pepin011_Kitchen_JeanClaude.jpg\" alt=\"Jacques Pepin and his best friend, Jean-Claude Szurdak, in an early magazine photo shoot. \" width=\"1754\" height=\"1276\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116748\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1068_Pepin011_Kitchen_JeanClaude.jpg 1754w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1068_Pepin011_Kitchen_JeanClaude-160x116.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1068_Pepin011_Kitchen_JeanClaude-800x582.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1068_Pepin011_Kitchen_JeanClaude-768x559.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1068_Pepin011_Kitchen_JeanClaude-1020x742.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1068_Pepin011_Kitchen_JeanClaude-1180x858.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1068_Pepin011_Kitchen_JeanClaude-960x698.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1068_Pepin011_Kitchen_JeanClaude-240x175.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1068_Pepin011_Kitchen_JeanClaude-375x273.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1068_Pepin011_Kitchen_JeanClaude-520x378.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1754px) 100vw, 1754px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jacques Pepin and his best friend, Jean-Claude Szurdak, in an early magazine photo shoot. \u003ccite>(Courtesy Jacques Pépin)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116750\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 611px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2170-JP-and-Franey-at-Hojo-commissary-NEW.jpg\" alt=\"Jacques Pépin and Pierre Franey at the Howard Johnsons test kitchen, 1970s.\" width=\"611\" height=\"535\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116750\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2170-JP-and-Franey-at-Hojo-commissary-NEW.jpg 611w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2170-JP-and-Franey-at-Hojo-commissary-NEW-160x140.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2170-JP-and-Franey-at-Hojo-commissary-NEW-240x210.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2170-JP-and-Franey-at-Hojo-commissary-NEW-375x328.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2170-JP-and-Franey-at-Hojo-commissary-NEW-520x455.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 611px) 100vw, 611px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jacques Pépin and Pierre Franey at the Howard Johnsons test kitchen, 1970s. \u003ccite>(Courtesy Pierre Franey Estate)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Eventually, the necessity arose for Pépin to reinvent himself once more. He wrote a cookbook, \u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Technique-Illustrated-Fundamental-Techniques-Cooking/dp/067179020X/ref=sr_1_2?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1491927105&sr=1-2&keywords=la+technique+jacques+pepin\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>La Technique\u003c/em>\u003c/a> that taught Americans much-needed, from what he had observed, basic techniques for food preparation. He followed the success of that first book with another, \u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Methode-Illustrated-Fundamental-Techniques-Hardcover/dp/B011WAFZH4/ref=sr_1_3?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1491927237&sr=1-3&keywords=la+methode+jacques+pepin\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>La Methode\u003c/em>\u003c/a>; the two books were essentially about empowering the home cook. They were revolutionary at the time, demonstrating food basics through step-by-step photographic layouts. Pépin then hit the road, touring extensively to promote the work, which was the only option in an age before cable networks devoted exclusively to food. Exploiting his suave good looks, his natural charm and humor, not to mention that sexy accent, Pépin became the Tom Jones of cooking. Women flocked to his public appearances and swooned. This was the 1970s and the U.S. was pretty hot for all things French. Anthony Bourdain summarizes this idea with the quote that opens the film, \"Before you have sex with another human being, you should be capable of preparing them an omelet to Jacques Pépin's standards the next morning.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116744\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-garden-800x1150.jpg\" alt=\"Jacques Pépin in his garden.\" width=\"800\" height=\"1150\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-116744\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-garden-800x1150.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-garden-160x230.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-garden-768x1104.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-garden-960x1380.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-garden-240x345.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-garden-375x539.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-garden-520x748.jpg 520w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-garden.jpg 969w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jacques Pépin in his garden. \u003ccite>(Courtesy Jacques Pépin)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>So of course TV came calling, most particularly KQED, which produced -- with the very same Peter L. Stein at the helm -- Pépin's first successful cooking series for public TV. While he is extremely accomplished, Pépin makes cooking look easy, without -- paradoxically -- pulling focus from the centrality of work. His amazingly expressive hands communicate volumes -- mastery, wit, joy -- with every small gesture. His emphasis on technique is about developing know-how in your hands, which is communicated through the grace of his own movements. The chef's knife is a baton; the paring knife is a pen. Pépin creates art and music with food, orchestrating the meal as a communion between friends.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116747\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1408px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2054-JP-cooking-demo-holding-mic-NEW.jpg\" alt=\"Jacques Pépin teaching a cooking class in the 1970s.\" width=\"1408\" height=\"1483\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116747\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2054-JP-cooking-demo-holding-mic-NEW.jpg 1408w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2054-JP-cooking-demo-holding-mic-NEW-160x169.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2054-JP-cooking-demo-holding-mic-NEW-800x843.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2054-JP-cooking-demo-holding-mic-NEW-768x809.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2054-JP-cooking-demo-holding-mic-NEW-1020x1074.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2054-JP-cooking-demo-holding-mic-NEW-1180x1243.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2054-JP-cooking-demo-holding-mic-NEW-960x1011.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2054-JP-cooking-demo-holding-mic-NEW-240x253.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2054-JP-cooking-demo-holding-mic-NEW-375x395.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2054-JP-cooking-demo-holding-mic-NEW-520x548.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1408px) 100vw, 1408px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jacques Pépin teaching a cooking class in the 1970s. \u003ccite>(Courtesy Jacques Pépin)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Pépin remained philosophically consistent on TV. With empowerment as his central goal, he utilized each half-hour segment to prepare a dish from start to finish, revealing how cooking is essentially technique and practice. He cemented this idea with another series wherein he taught his daughter Claudine to cook on the small screen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116755\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 900px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-claudine.jpg\" alt=\" Jacques Pépin and his daughter Claudine in his television series (L to R): Today's Gourmet, Jacques Pépin 's Kitchen: Cooking with Claudine, and Chez Pépin.\" width=\"900\" height=\"223\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116755\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-claudine.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-claudine-160x40.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-claudine-800x198.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-claudine-768x190.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-claudine-240x59.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-claudine-375x93.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-claudine-520x129.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 900px) 100vw, 900px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jacques Pépin and his daughter Claudine in his television series (L to R): Today's Gourmet, Jacques Pépin 's Kitchen: Cooking with Claudine, and Chez Pépin. \u003ccite>(screenshots from Jacques Pépin: The Art of Craft)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>But \u003cem>The Art of Craft\u003c/em> is more than just one man's success story. Ultimately, it communicates, with the same breezy charm as its subject, the effect one person can have on a whole culture. This is the crucial idea that seems missing from today's America. We are a stew waiting for that distinctive ingredient that makes everything pop.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pépin, along with a handful of other chefs like him, changed the way Americans perceived food. At one point, Pépin, nearing his 80th birthday, contemplates a wall filled with framed pictures of close friends and people who have been influential in his life. I realized then that his true accomplishment was not becoming a celebrity chef, writing cookbooks or teaching cooking techniques on TV, though they were the tools of his trade. His mission has always been to demonstrate the art of nurturing and the craft of building and fortifying community.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116752\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 953px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/Screen-shot-2017-04-12-at-2.49-NEW.jpg\" alt=\" Jacques Pépin nearing his 80th birthday, contemplates a wall filled with framed pictures of close friends and people who have been influential in his life.\" width=\"953\" height=\"530\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116752\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/Screen-shot-2017-04-12-at-2.49-NEW.jpg 953w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/Screen-shot-2017-04-12-at-2.49-NEW-160x89.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/Screen-shot-2017-04-12-at-2.49-NEW-800x445.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/Screen-shot-2017-04-12-at-2.49-NEW-768x427.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/Screen-shot-2017-04-12-at-2.49-NEW-240x133.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/Screen-shot-2017-04-12-at-2.49-NEW-375x209.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/Screen-shot-2017-04-12-at-2.49-NEW-520x289.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 953px) 100vw, 953px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jacques Pépin nearing his 80th birthday, contemplates a wall filled with framed pictures of close friends and people who have been influential in his life. \u003ccite>(screenshot from Jacques Pépin: The Art of Craft)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>This timely tribute to one immigrant's journey in the U.S. reminds us that change is as likely to arrive on our shores as it is to be home grown, given the right conditions. Everything worth having is worth working for and, as Pépin demonstrates, there are tried and true techniques that, with practice, will help us to master the art of living.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116732\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JP-with-book-DSC_7094-1920.jpg\" alt=\"Jacques Pépin (R), director Peter L. Stein (L), director of photography Vicente Franco, and sound engineer Jose Araujo, during the filming of Pépin’s American Masters documentary, 2016.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1282\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116732\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JP-with-book-DSC_7094-1920.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JP-with-book-DSC_7094-1920-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JP-with-book-DSC_7094-1920-800x534.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JP-with-book-DSC_7094-1920-768x513.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JP-with-book-DSC_7094-1920-1020x681.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JP-with-book-DSC_7094-1920-1180x788.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JP-with-book-DSC_7094-1920-960x641.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JP-with-book-DSC_7094-1920-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JP-with-book-DSC_7094-1920-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JP-with-book-DSC_7094-1920-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jacques Pépin (R), director Peter L. Stein (L), director of photography Vicente Franco, and sound engineer Jose Araujo, during the filming of Pépin’s American Masters documentary, 2016. \u003ccite>(Jennifer Huang )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>https://player.vimeo.com/video/211423771\u003cbr>\nDocumentary maker Peter L. Stein describes some of the special on- and off-screen challenges of bringing Jacques Pépin's story to the screen for PBS's American Masters, and recalls his longtime collaboration with Jacques as producer of many of his early public television series.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Watch a clip from the documentary in which Jacques' wife Gloria shares the story of how she met Jacques.\u003cbr>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/j0LazvHsuUE'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/j0LazvHsuUE'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "A World Of Flavors In A Single Dish: How Jewish Food Spread Across The Globe",
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"content": "\u003cp>With a taste of just a single dish from a Jewish family's table at Passover, Joan Nathan can tell a global story.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Jewish cooking legend, who has nearly a dozen books to her name, has documented the worldwide reach of Jewish food for her latest, \u003cem>King Solomon's Table: A Culinary Exploration of Jewish Cooking from Around the World.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I can track people by what their \u003cem>haroset\u003c/em> is,\" Nathan says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Haroset\u003c/em>, a Passover staple, is a rough paste usually made of chopped fruits and nuts. It's meant to symbolize the mortar Hebrew slaves used for building before the exodus from Egypt. The basic recipe has assumed different forms depending on local traditions and ingredients, evolving as it traveled from one continent to another over the centuries.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nathan's newest cookbook has five recipes for \u003cem>haroset\u003c/em>, from every part of the globe. They range from a Maine version with blueberries and cranberries to a Brazilian recipe with cashews to a Persian variety featuring pomegranate juice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"This is a perfect way to illustrate the wandering of the Jews,\" Nathan says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Jewish cuisine is not as distinct as Indian or Mexican food, Nathan says, because Jews live all over the world. Wherever she travels, she seeks out the local food traditions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For example, during a visit to Tbilisi, Georgia, in the 1980s, a rabbi served her a diced eggplant dish with herbs and spices from the region. A little later in Italy, she enjoyed practically the same mélange – only with a different palate of flavorings reflecting the local tastes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In \u003cem>King Solomon's Table\u003c/em>, Nathan also writes about the tradition of eggs on the Seder table. \"Many Jews have the custom of starting the Passover Seder with eggs, either cooked in salt water or even cooked overnight in sand, a custom still followed today in North Africa,\" she writes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The recipe she shares for hard-boiled eggs with spinach originated on the Greek island of Corfu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://youtu.be/jESNuHB4NOE\u003cbr>\nJoan Nathan makes this recipe from King Solomon's Table to be the first dish eaten during the Passover meal.\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Maia Stern and Beck Harlan/NPR YouTube\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nathan says she's been studying these traditions for a long time, and her book is her way of \"putting everything together – things that I've been thinking about, that I've been ruminating about for years.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Recipe: \u003cem>Halleq\u003c/em>, \u003c/strong>\u003cstrong>Persian \u003cem>Haroset \u003c/em>with Dates, Apples, Pistachio\u003c/strong>\u003cstrong>s\u003c/strong>\u003cstrong> and Pomegranate Juice \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Yield: 6 cups \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>1 cup (140 grams) almonds\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 cup (125 grams) roasted, shelled pistachios\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 cup (100 grams) walnuts\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 cup (150 grams) black raisins\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 cup (150 grams) golden raisins\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 cup (175 grams) dates, pitted\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 teaspoons cinnamon \u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 teaspoons ground cardamom\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 teaspoon ground ginger\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 large apple, peeled, cored, and quartered\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 large pear, peeled, cored, and quartered\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 bananas, peeled \u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 to 3 tablespoons cider vinegar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 to 1 cup (120 to 240ml) pomegranate juice\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 to 1 cup (120 to 240ml) sweet kosher wine\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>Every Passover, I make about five kinds of \u003cem>haroset \u003c/em>from different parts of the world. For me, the various blends, representing the mortar used to make bricks in slavery in ancient Egypt, reflect the regional dispersal of the Jews throughout history.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116707\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1923px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/joan-nathan-2-harosets-020-2_custom-fafcfd4c31d8bab59f01d4594722a010a0e27282.jpg\" alt=\"Cookbook author Joan Nathan uses this chopper, which she found at an antique store, to make haroset, a traditional Passover dish.\" width=\"1923\" height=\"1464\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116707\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/joan-nathan-2-harosets-020-2_custom-fafcfd4c31d8bab59f01d4594722a010a0e27282.jpg 1923w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/joan-nathan-2-harosets-020-2_custom-fafcfd4c31d8bab59f01d4594722a010a0e27282-160x122.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/joan-nathan-2-harosets-020-2_custom-fafcfd4c31d8bab59f01d4594722a010a0e27282-800x609.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/joan-nathan-2-harosets-020-2_custom-fafcfd4c31d8bab59f01d4594722a010a0e27282-768x585.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/joan-nathan-2-harosets-020-2_custom-fafcfd4c31d8bab59f01d4594722a010a0e27282-1020x777.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/joan-nathan-2-harosets-020-2_custom-fafcfd4c31d8bab59f01d4594722a010a0e27282-1180x898.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/joan-nathan-2-harosets-020-2_custom-fafcfd4c31d8bab59f01d4594722a010a0e27282-960x731.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/joan-nathan-2-harosets-020-2_custom-fafcfd4c31d8bab59f01d4594722a010a0e27282-240x183.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/joan-nathan-2-harosets-020-2_custom-fafcfd4c31d8bab59f01d4594722a010a0e27282-375x285.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/joan-nathan-2-harosets-020-2_custom-fafcfd4c31d8bab59f01d4594722a010a0e27282-520x396.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1923px) 100vw, 1923px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cookbook author Joan Nathan uses this chopper, which she found at an antique store, to make haroset, a traditional Passover dish. \u003ccite>(Jonathan Baer/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Haroset, \u003c/em>a popular dipping sauce for feasts in Babylon, was brought to Jerusalem and later added to the Passover Seder after the destruction of the Second Temple. For centuries, the sauce, originally made of dates, was slowly cooked in copper pots, used to cook down the fruit into a syrupy honey, making the biblical date honey. Then it was topped with ground walnuts (see my \u003cem>Jewish Cooking in America, \u003c/em>page 387). Later, in Baghdad (about thirty miles from Babylon), it was traditional to buy the dates, press them through a special machine, letting the syrup ooze out, and then heat the dates very slowly in a copper pot until they were the thick consistency of a jam-like syrup. I have heard stories about men and women who would roam the streets of Baghdad hawking this date honey served with clotted cream on bread or matzo for breakfast.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As Jews settled on the Silk Road or throughout the Mediterranean, they either brought with them their recipe for \u003cem>haroset, \u003c/em>if they could find all the ingredients, or created new ones, based on ingredients where they lived.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Egyptian \u003cem>haroset \u003c/em>includes raisins, dates, and nuts, and Persian \u003cem>haroset, \u003c/em>called \u003cem>halleq, \u003c/em>is filled with nuts and dried fruits, pomegranate juice, bananas, and cardamom as the prominent spice, but uncooked.\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>In a large food processor, combine the almonds, pistachios, walnuts, black and golden raisins, dates, cinnamon, cardamom, ginger, and nutmeg. Pulse until the nuts are coarsely chopped.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Add the apple, pear, and bananas, then pulse until coarsely chopped. Add 2 tablespoons of the vinegar, 1/2 cup of the pomegranate juice, and 1/2 cup of the wine. Pulse again, adding more vinegar, juice, or wine to taste or as needed to make a coarse paste. Do not purée; the mixture should retain some crunch.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Recipe:\u003cem> Huevos Haminados con Spinaci, \u003c/em>Long-Cooked Hard-Boiled Eggs with Spinach\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116708\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/harlan_npr_passover_joannathan_5_custom-4722243ac68f44a146c124d74be2e797db6d82b7.jpg\" alt=\"Joan Nathan's recipe for hard-boiled eggs with spinach originated in Greece.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1332\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116708\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/harlan_npr_passover_joannathan_5_custom-4722243ac68f44a146c124d74be2e797db6d82b7.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/harlan_npr_passover_joannathan_5_custom-4722243ac68f44a146c124d74be2e797db6d82b7-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/harlan_npr_passover_joannathan_5_custom-4722243ac68f44a146c124d74be2e797db6d82b7-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/harlan_npr_passover_joannathan_5_custom-4722243ac68f44a146c124d74be2e797db6d82b7-768x511.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/harlan_npr_passover_joannathan_5_custom-4722243ac68f44a146c124d74be2e797db6d82b7-1020x679.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/harlan_npr_passover_joannathan_5_custom-4722243ac68f44a146c124d74be2e797db6d82b7-1180x786.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/harlan_npr_passover_joannathan_5_custom-4722243ac68f44a146c124d74be2e797db6d82b7-960x639.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/harlan_npr_passover_joannathan_5_custom-4722243ac68f44a146c124d74be2e797db6d82b7-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/harlan_npr_passover_joannathan_5_custom-4722243ac68f44a146c124d74be2e797db6d82b7-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/harlan_npr_passover_joannathan_5_custom-4722243ac68f44a146c124d74be2e797db6d82b7-520x346.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Joan Nathan's recipe for hard-boiled eggs with spinach originated in Greece. \u003ccite>(Beck Harlan/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Yield: 12 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>12 large eggs, preferably fresh from a farmers' market\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>4 tablespoons olive oil\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 1/2 cups (225 grams) red onion (about 1 large), peeled and chopped coarsely\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tablespoon sea salt\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 1/2 pounds (675 grams) spinach, fresh or frozen (thawed and drained if frozen)\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>Put the eggs in a cooking pot and add water to cover by about 2 inches. Then add the olive oil, onions, salt and pepper. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, then lower heat and simmer for 30 minutes. Cool and remove the eggs with a slotted spoon. Tap the eggs gently against the counter and peel under cold running water, keeping them as whole as possible.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Return the peeled eggs to the pot with the seasoned water and summer very slowly uncovered for at least 2 hours, or until the water is almost evaporated and the onions almost dissolved. The eggs will become dark and creamy as the cooking water evaporates and they absorb all the flavoring.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Remove the eggs carefully to a bowl, rubbing into the cooking liquid any of the cream that forms on the outside. Heat the remaining cooking liquid over medium heat, bring to a simmer, and add the spinach. Cook the spinach until most of the liquid is reduced, stirring occasionally with a wooden spook, about 30 minutes, or until the spinach is creamy and well cooked. Serve a dollop of spinach with a hard-boiled egg on top as the first part of the Seder meal or as a first course of any meat.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>NOTE:\u003c/strong> To see if the eggs are really boiled, remove one egg from the water and spin it on a flat cutting board. If it twirls in one place, it is hard-boiled. If it wobbles all over the board, it is not cooked yet and the weight isn't distributed evenly. The easiest way of peeling a hot hard-boiled egg is to put it under cold water between your hands and rub it quickly until it cracks, then peel under the running water.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To prepare the symbolic egg for the Passover Seder plate, boil the egg in its shell, dry it, and then light a match underneath to char it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Recipes from \u003c/em>King Solomon's Table: A Culinary Exploration of Jewish Cooking from Around the World\u003cem> by Joan Nathan. Published by Knopf.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cem>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Cooking legend Joan Nathan documents the worldwide reach of Jewish food in her new book, \u003cem>King Solomon's Table\u003c/em>. One example is \u003cem>haroset\u003c/em>, a Passover staple that's been adapted to suit many local tastes.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>With a taste of just a single dish from a Jewish family's table at Passover, Joan Nathan can tell a global story.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Jewish cooking legend, who has nearly a dozen books to her name, has documented the worldwide reach of Jewish food for her latest, \u003cem>King Solomon's Table: A Culinary Exploration of Jewish Cooking from Around the World.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I can track people by what their \u003cem>haroset\u003c/em> is,\" Nathan says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Haroset\u003c/em>, a Passover staple, is a rough paste usually made of chopped fruits and nuts. It's meant to symbolize the mortar Hebrew slaves used for building before the exodus from Egypt. The basic recipe has assumed different forms depending on local traditions and ingredients, evolving as it traveled from one continent to another over the centuries.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nathan's newest cookbook has five recipes for \u003cem>haroset\u003c/em>, from every part of the globe. They range from a Maine version with blueberries and cranberries to a Brazilian recipe with cashews to a Persian variety featuring pomegranate juice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"This is a perfect way to illustrate the wandering of the Jews,\" Nathan says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Jewish cuisine is not as distinct as Indian or Mexican food, Nathan says, because Jews live all over the world. Wherever she travels, she seeks out the local food traditions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For example, during a visit to Tbilisi, Georgia, in the 1980s, a rabbi served her a diced eggplant dish with herbs and spices from the region. A little later in Italy, she enjoyed practically the same mélange – only with a different palate of flavorings reflecting the local tastes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In \u003cem>King Solomon's Table\u003c/em>, Nathan also writes about the tradition of eggs on the Seder table. \"Many Jews have the custom of starting the Passover Seder with eggs, either cooked in salt water or even cooked overnight in sand, a custom still followed today in North Africa,\" she writes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The recipe she shares for hard-boiled eggs with spinach originated on the Greek island of Corfu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://youtu.be/jESNuHB4NOE\u003cbr>\nJoan Nathan makes this recipe from King Solomon's Table to be the first dish eaten during the Passover meal.\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Maia Stern and Beck Harlan/NPR YouTube\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nathan says she's been studying these traditions for a long time, and her book is her way of \"putting everything together – things that I've been thinking about, that I've been ruminating about for years.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Recipe: \u003cem>Halleq\u003c/em>, \u003c/strong>\u003cstrong>Persian \u003cem>Haroset \u003c/em>with Dates, Apples, Pistachio\u003c/strong>\u003cstrong>s\u003c/strong>\u003cstrong> and Pomegranate Juice \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Yield: 6 cups \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>1 cup (140 grams) almonds\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 cup (125 grams) roasted, shelled pistachios\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 cup (100 grams) walnuts\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 cup (150 grams) black raisins\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 cup (150 grams) golden raisins\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 cup (175 grams) dates, pitted\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 teaspoons cinnamon \u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 teaspoons ground cardamom\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 teaspoon ground ginger\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 large apple, peeled, cored, and quartered\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 large pear, peeled, cored, and quartered\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 bananas, peeled \u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 to 3 tablespoons cider vinegar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 to 1 cup (120 to 240ml) pomegranate juice\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 to 1 cup (120 to 240ml) sweet kosher wine\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>Every Passover, I make about five kinds of \u003cem>haroset \u003c/em>from different parts of the world. For me, the various blends, representing the mortar used to make bricks in slavery in ancient Egypt, reflect the regional dispersal of the Jews throughout history.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116707\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1923px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/joan-nathan-2-harosets-020-2_custom-fafcfd4c31d8bab59f01d4594722a010a0e27282.jpg\" alt=\"Cookbook author Joan Nathan uses this chopper, which she found at an antique store, to make haroset, a traditional Passover dish.\" width=\"1923\" height=\"1464\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116707\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/joan-nathan-2-harosets-020-2_custom-fafcfd4c31d8bab59f01d4594722a010a0e27282.jpg 1923w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/joan-nathan-2-harosets-020-2_custom-fafcfd4c31d8bab59f01d4594722a010a0e27282-160x122.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/joan-nathan-2-harosets-020-2_custom-fafcfd4c31d8bab59f01d4594722a010a0e27282-800x609.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/joan-nathan-2-harosets-020-2_custom-fafcfd4c31d8bab59f01d4594722a010a0e27282-768x585.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/joan-nathan-2-harosets-020-2_custom-fafcfd4c31d8bab59f01d4594722a010a0e27282-1020x777.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/joan-nathan-2-harosets-020-2_custom-fafcfd4c31d8bab59f01d4594722a010a0e27282-1180x898.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/joan-nathan-2-harosets-020-2_custom-fafcfd4c31d8bab59f01d4594722a010a0e27282-960x731.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/joan-nathan-2-harosets-020-2_custom-fafcfd4c31d8bab59f01d4594722a010a0e27282-240x183.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/joan-nathan-2-harosets-020-2_custom-fafcfd4c31d8bab59f01d4594722a010a0e27282-375x285.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/joan-nathan-2-harosets-020-2_custom-fafcfd4c31d8bab59f01d4594722a010a0e27282-520x396.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1923px) 100vw, 1923px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cookbook author Joan Nathan uses this chopper, which she found at an antique store, to make haroset, a traditional Passover dish. \u003ccite>(Jonathan Baer/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Haroset, \u003c/em>a popular dipping sauce for feasts in Babylon, was brought to Jerusalem and later added to the Passover Seder after the destruction of the Second Temple. For centuries, the sauce, originally made of dates, was slowly cooked in copper pots, used to cook down the fruit into a syrupy honey, making the biblical date honey. Then it was topped with ground walnuts (see my \u003cem>Jewish Cooking in America, \u003c/em>page 387). Later, in Baghdad (about thirty miles from Babylon), it was traditional to buy the dates, press them through a special machine, letting the syrup ooze out, and then heat the dates very slowly in a copper pot until they were the thick consistency of a jam-like syrup. I have heard stories about men and women who would roam the streets of Baghdad hawking this date honey served with clotted cream on bread or matzo for breakfast.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As Jews settled on the Silk Road or throughout the Mediterranean, they either brought with them their recipe for \u003cem>haroset, \u003c/em>if they could find all the ingredients, or created new ones, based on ingredients where they lived.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Egyptian \u003cem>haroset \u003c/em>includes raisins, dates, and nuts, and Persian \u003cem>haroset, \u003c/em>called \u003cem>halleq, \u003c/em>is filled with nuts and dried fruits, pomegranate juice, bananas, and cardamom as the prominent spice, but uncooked.\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>In a large food processor, combine the almonds, pistachios, walnuts, black and golden raisins, dates, cinnamon, cardamom, ginger, and nutmeg. Pulse until the nuts are coarsely chopped.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Add the apple, pear, and bananas, then pulse until coarsely chopped. Add 2 tablespoons of the vinegar, 1/2 cup of the pomegranate juice, and 1/2 cup of the wine. Pulse again, adding more vinegar, juice, or wine to taste or as needed to make a coarse paste. Do not purée; the mixture should retain some crunch.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Recipe:\u003cem> Huevos Haminados con Spinaci, \u003c/em>Long-Cooked Hard-Boiled Eggs with Spinach\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116708\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/harlan_npr_passover_joannathan_5_custom-4722243ac68f44a146c124d74be2e797db6d82b7.jpg\" alt=\"Joan Nathan's recipe for hard-boiled eggs with spinach originated in Greece.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1332\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116708\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/harlan_npr_passover_joannathan_5_custom-4722243ac68f44a146c124d74be2e797db6d82b7.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/harlan_npr_passover_joannathan_5_custom-4722243ac68f44a146c124d74be2e797db6d82b7-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/harlan_npr_passover_joannathan_5_custom-4722243ac68f44a146c124d74be2e797db6d82b7-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/harlan_npr_passover_joannathan_5_custom-4722243ac68f44a146c124d74be2e797db6d82b7-768x511.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/harlan_npr_passover_joannathan_5_custom-4722243ac68f44a146c124d74be2e797db6d82b7-1020x679.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/harlan_npr_passover_joannathan_5_custom-4722243ac68f44a146c124d74be2e797db6d82b7-1180x786.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/harlan_npr_passover_joannathan_5_custom-4722243ac68f44a146c124d74be2e797db6d82b7-960x639.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/harlan_npr_passover_joannathan_5_custom-4722243ac68f44a146c124d74be2e797db6d82b7-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/harlan_npr_passover_joannathan_5_custom-4722243ac68f44a146c124d74be2e797db6d82b7-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/harlan_npr_passover_joannathan_5_custom-4722243ac68f44a146c124d74be2e797db6d82b7-520x346.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Joan Nathan's recipe for hard-boiled eggs with spinach originated in Greece. \u003ccite>(Beck Harlan/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Yield: 12 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>12 large eggs, preferably fresh from a farmers' market\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>4 tablespoons olive oil\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 1/2 cups (225 grams) red onion (about 1 large), peeled and chopped coarsely\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tablespoon sea salt\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 1/2 pounds (675 grams) spinach, fresh or frozen (thawed and drained if frozen)\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>Put the eggs in a cooking pot and add water to cover by about 2 inches. Then add the olive oil, onions, salt and pepper. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, then lower heat and simmer for 30 minutes. Cool and remove the eggs with a slotted spoon. Tap the eggs gently against the counter and peel under cold running water, keeping them as whole as possible.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Return the peeled eggs to the pot with the seasoned water and summer very slowly uncovered for at least 2 hours, or until the water is almost evaporated and the onions almost dissolved. The eggs will become dark and creamy as the cooking water evaporates and they absorb all the flavoring.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Remove the eggs carefully to a bowl, rubbing into the cooking liquid any of the cream that forms on the outside. Heat the remaining cooking liquid over medium heat, bring to a simmer, and add the spinach. Cook the spinach until most of the liquid is reduced, stirring occasionally with a wooden spook, about 30 minutes, or until the spinach is creamy and well cooked. Serve a dollop of spinach with a hard-boiled egg on top as the first part of the Seder meal or as a first course of any meat.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>NOTE:\u003c/strong> To see if the eggs are really boiled, remove one egg from the water and spin it on a flat cutting board. If it twirls in one place, it is hard-boiled. If it wobbles all over the board, it is not cooked yet and the weight isn't distributed evenly. The easiest way of peeling a hot hard-boiled egg is to put it under cold water between your hands and rub it quickly until it cracks, then peel under the running water.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To prepare the symbolic egg for the Passover Seder plate, boil the egg in its shell, dry it, and then light a match underneath to char it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Recipes from \u003c/em>King Solomon's Table: A Culinary Exploration of Jewish Cooking from Around the World\u003cem> by Joan Nathan. Published by Knopf.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "Wake Up And Smell The Matzo: A Passover Breakfast Tradition",
"title": "Wake Up And Smell The Matzo: A Passover Breakfast Tradition",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>During Passover, many Jews avoid leavened baked goods to commemorate the hasty exodus from Egypt – which means farewell to pancakes, waffles and biscuits.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So what's for breakfast during those eight long days? Matzo brei.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the uninitiated, here's what passes for a recipe: Take some matzo (aka Passover flatbread) and crumble it into chunks. (If you've just had a Seder, encountering leftover matzo should not be a problem.) Soak it in water until just moistened – or fairly soggy, depending on how much crispness you'd like in the finished product – then drain and beat with an egg or two. Fry it up, either scrambled or omelet-style, and serve with a sprinkling of salt – or try sugar or syrup. (The savory and sweet camps each have their devotees.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to Yiddish scholar and culinary historian \u003ca href=\"http://inmolaraan.blogspot.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Eve Jochnowitz\u003c/a>, the term \u003cem>brei\u003c/em> comes from the word meaning to scorch or sear. And it rhymes with \"fry,\" at least in the Standard Yiddish dialect. (The Central Yiddish pronunciation rhymes with \"whaa.\") In some Eastern European regions, the dish is called \u003cem>oyfgefrishte\u003c/em>\u003cem> matsas\u003c/em>, meaning the matzo has been \"freshened up\" – the same description used for French toast.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116676\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1200px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3439554417_c92b34b2b9_o_custom-8f5147b55bc8bab7264c3756ecedb3b1b5f9615e-s1200.jpg\" alt=\"A dish of soaked and scrambled matzo might not sound terribly exciting, but it gets its staying power from family tradition and memory as much as from flavor.\" width=\"1200\" height=\"838\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116676\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3439554417_c92b34b2b9_o_custom-8f5147b55bc8bab7264c3756ecedb3b1b5f9615e-s1200.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3439554417_c92b34b2b9_o_custom-8f5147b55bc8bab7264c3756ecedb3b1b5f9615e-s1200-160x112.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3439554417_c92b34b2b9_o_custom-8f5147b55bc8bab7264c3756ecedb3b1b5f9615e-s1200-800x559.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3439554417_c92b34b2b9_o_custom-8f5147b55bc8bab7264c3756ecedb3b1b5f9615e-s1200-768x536.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3439554417_c92b34b2b9_o_custom-8f5147b55bc8bab7264c3756ecedb3b1b5f9615e-s1200-1020x712.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3439554417_c92b34b2b9_o_custom-8f5147b55bc8bab7264c3756ecedb3b1b5f9615e-s1200-1180x824.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3439554417_c92b34b2b9_o_custom-8f5147b55bc8bab7264c3756ecedb3b1b5f9615e-s1200-960x670.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3439554417_c92b34b2b9_o_custom-8f5147b55bc8bab7264c3756ecedb3b1b5f9615e-s1200-240x168.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3439554417_c92b34b2b9_o_custom-8f5147b55bc8bab7264c3756ecedb3b1b5f9615e-s1200-375x262.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3439554417_c92b34b2b9_o_custom-8f5147b55bc8bab7264c3756ecedb3b1b5f9615e-s1200-520x363.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A dish of soaked and scrambled matzo might not sound terribly exciting, but it gets its staying power from family tradition and memory as much as from flavor. \u003ccite>(Jessica and Lon Binder/Flickr)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>A dish of soaked and scrambled matzo might not sound terribly exciting. In fact, it may sound terrible. But for many people, it's a treat they look forward to all year. Or, heck, even eat outside of Passover.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ruth Reichl, former editor of \u003cem>Gourmet\u003c/em>, often traffics in dishes that are a bit more, well, gourmet. But in \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://ruthreichl.com/books/\" target=\"_blank\">My Kitchen Year\u003c/a>\u003c/em>, her memoir of reeling and recovering from the folding of the magazine, Reichl describes matzo brei as \"even more comforting than carbonara.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's not a comparison everyone could get behind. While both dishes feature egg-coated carbs, pasta carbonara has big flavors – the umami sharpness of grated pecorino/parmesan cheese, the smoky richness of cured pork – whereas matzo brei tastes like ... well, matzo.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But, for devotees, this seeming liability is actually something of a bonus. \"Like most starchy comfort foods, it's a wonderful blank canvas to play with,\" notes food writer Jayne Cohen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://jewishholidaycooking.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Jewish Holiday Cooking\u003c/a>\u003c/em>, Cohen spikes matzo brei with artichoke hearts and fresh dill, or poached prunes in wine. Cohen also plays around before it hits the pan, swapping out the water used to soak the matzo for something that imparts a bit more flavor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I've used milk or cream,\" she says. \"I've used reduced apple juice.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After hearing L.A. food critic Jonathan Gold describe chilaquiles, the dish of leftover tortilla chips fried up with eggs and salsa, as \"\u003ca href=\"http://www.tabletmag.com/jewish-life-and-religion/104646/las-jewish-top-foodie\" target=\"_blank\">Mexican matzo brei\u003c/a>,\" cookbook author Joan Nathan riffed a version in her \u003ca href=\"http://www.penguinrandomhouse.com/books/229133/king-solomons-table-by-joan-nathan-foreword-by-alice-waters/9780385351140/\" target=\"_blank\">latest cookbook\u003c/a> with matzo instead of chips (in addition to the eggs, crema and avocado).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In New York, the \u003ca href=\"http://www.matzahbrei.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Matzahbrei\u003c/a> food stand has taken it a step further, using matzo brei as a stand-in for bread to make a stuffed griddled sandwich, filled with such decidedly non-Ashkenazi ingredients as avocado and peach-mango salsa or beets in a minted tahini sauce.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Those who know what matzo brei is — and in New York, it's a lot of people — they're shocked,\" laughs Sagi Shahar, co-founder of the business. \"We get a lot of laughter, a lot of smiles. A lot of people say \u003cem>finally\u003c/em>.\" And during the food stand's busier seasons, he estimates it goes through 10,000 matzos a month.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Despite the popularity of this Passover food in all its variations, there are some who argue that it's actually not appropriate for Passover at all.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The whole point of matzo is that it's an unleavened bread – a flat cracker made from flour that hasn't spent even 20 minutes in contact with water before it's in and out of the oven, to avoid any chance of rising. And matzo brei and other dishes in the same category – known as \u003cem>gebrochts\u003c/em>, or broken – call for the baked matzo to be broken up and then mixed with water again.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While they might not be perfectly in keeping with the spirit of the holiday, Jochnowitz, the Yiddish scholar and culinary historian, says she, like many others, will keep matzo brei and similar items on her Passover table.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You might as well stay in Egypt if you can't have matzo balls,\" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like so many holiday dishes, matzo brei gets its staying power from family tradition and memory as much as from flavor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Shahar says that some patrons of the Matzahbrei food stand look at his listings of herbed sauces and sauteed mushrooms and then go off-menu, asking if he can make plain old matzo brei, just like their beloved father or grandmother used to make.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"No fillings, no toppings,\" he laughs. \"Just matzo brei.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "A dish of soaked and scrambled matzo might not sound terribly exciting. But for many Jews, matzo brei is a Passover treat they look forward to all year.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>During Passover, many Jews avoid leavened baked goods to commemorate the hasty exodus from Egypt – which means farewell to pancakes, waffles and biscuits.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So what's for breakfast during those eight long days? Matzo brei.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the uninitiated, here's what passes for a recipe: Take some matzo (aka Passover flatbread) and crumble it into chunks. (If you've just had a Seder, encountering leftover matzo should not be a problem.) Soak it in water until just moistened – or fairly soggy, depending on how much crispness you'd like in the finished product – then drain and beat with an egg or two. Fry it up, either scrambled or omelet-style, and serve with a sprinkling of salt – or try sugar or syrup. (The savory and sweet camps each have their devotees.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to Yiddish scholar and culinary historian \u003ca href=\"http://inmolaraan.blogspot.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Eve Jochnowitz\u003c/a>, the term \u003cem>brei\u003c/em> comes from the word meaning to scorch or sear. And it rhymes with \"fry,\" at least in the Standard Yiddish dialect. (The Central Yiddish pronunciation rhymes with \"whaa.\") In some Eastern European regions, the dish is called \u003cem>oyfgefrishte\u003c/em>\u003cem> matsas\u003c/em>, meaning the matzo has been \"freshened up\" – the same description used for French toast.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116676\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1200px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3439554417_c92b34b2b9_o_custom-8f5147b55bc8bab7264c3756ecedb3b1b5f9615e-s1200.jpg\" alt=\"A dish of soaked and scrambled matzo might not sound terribly exciting, but it gets its staying power from family tradition and memory as much as from flavor.\" width=\"1200\" height=\"838\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116676\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3439554417_c92b34b2b9_o_custom-8f5147b55bc8bab7264c3756ecedb3b1b5f9615e-s1200.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3439554417_c92b34b2b9_o_custom-8f5147b55bc8bab7264c3756ecedb3b1b5f9615e-s1200-160x112.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3439554417_c92b34b2b9_o_custom-8f5147b55bc8bab7264c3756ecedb3b1b5f9615e-s1200-800x559.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3439554417_c92b34b2b9_o_custom-8f5147b55bc8bab7264c3756ecedb3b1b5f9615e-s1200-768x536.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3439554417_c92b34b2b9_o_custom-8f5147b55bc8bab7264c3756ecedb3b1b5f9615e-s1200-1020x712.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3439554417_c92b34b2b9_o_custom-8f5147b55bc8bab7264c3756ecedb3b1b5f9615e-s1200-1180x824.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3439554417_c92b34b2b9_o_custom-8f5147b55bc8bab7264c3756ecedb3b1b5f9615e-s1200-960x670.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3439554417_c92b34b2b9_o_custom-8f5147b55bc8bab7264c3756ecedb3b1b5f9615e-s1200-240x168.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3439554417_c92b34b2b9_o_custom-8f5147b55bc8bab7264c3756ecedb3b1b5f9615e-s1200-375x262.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3439554417_c92b34b2b9_o_custom-8f5147b55bc8bab7264c3756ecedb3b1b5f9615e-s1200-520x363.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A dish of soaked and scrambled matzo might not sound terribly exciting, but it gets its staying power from family tradition and memory as much as from flavor. \u003ccite>(Jessica and Lon Binder/Flickr)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>A dish of soaked and scrambled matzo might not sound terribly exciting. In fact, it may sound terrible. But for many people, it's a treat they look forward to all year. Or, heck, even eat outside of Passover.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ruth Reichl, former editor of \u003cem>Gourmet\u003c/em>, often traffics in dishes that are a bit more, well, gourmet. But in \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://ruthreichl.com/books/\" target=\"_blank\">My Kitchen Year\u003c/a>\u003c/em>, her memoir of reeling and recovering from the folding of the magazine, Reichl describes matzo brei as \"even more comforting than carbonara.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's not a comparison everyone could get behind. While both dishes feature egg-coated carbs, pasta carbonara has big flavors – the umami sharpness of grated pecorino/parmesan cheese, the smoky richness of cured pork – whereas matzo brei tastes like ... well, matzo.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But, for devotees, this seeming liability is actually something of a bonus. \"Like most starchy comfort foods, it's a wonderful blank canvas to play with,\" notes food writer Jayne Cohen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://jewishholidaycooking.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Jewish Holiday Cooking\u003c/a>\u003c/em>, Cohen spikes matzo brei with artichoke hearts and fresh dill, or poached prunes in wine. Cohen also plays around before it hits the pan, swapping out the water used to soak the matzo for something that imparts a bit more flavor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I've used milk or cream,\" she says. \"I've used reduced apple juice.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After hearing L.A. food critic Jonathan Gold describe chilaquiles, the dish of leftover tortilla chips fried up with eggs and salsa, as \"\u003ca href=\"http://www.tabletmag.com/jewish-life-and-religion/104646/las-jewish-top-foodie\" target=\"_blank\">Mexican matzo brei\u003c/a>,\" cookbook author Joan Nathan riffed a version in her \u003ca href=\"http://www.penguinrandomhouse.com/books/229133/king-solomons-table-by-joan-nathan-foreword-by-alice-waters/9780385351140/\" target=\"_blank\">latest cookbook\u003c/a> with matzo instead of chips (in addition to the eggs, crema and avocado).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In New York, the \u003ca href=\"http://www.matzahbrei.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Matzahbrei\u003c/a> food stand has taken it a step further, using matzo brei as a stand-in for bread to make a stuffed griddled sandwich, filled with such decidedly non-Ashkenazi ingredients as avocado and peach-mango salsa or beets in a minted tahini sauce.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Those who know what matzo brei is — and in New York, it's a lot of people — they're shocked,\" laughs Sagi Shahar, co-founder of the business. \"We get a lot of laughter, a lot of smiles. A lot of people say \u003cem>finally\u003c/em>.\" And during the food stand's busier seasons, he estimates it goes through 10,000 matzos a month.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Despite the popularity of this Passover food in all its variations, there are some who argue that it's actually not appropriate for Passover at all.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The whole point of matzo is that it's an unleavened bread – a flat cracker made from flour that hasn't spent even 20 minutes in contact with water before it's in and out of the oven, to avoid any chance of rising. And matzo brei and other dishes in the same category – known as \u003cem>gebrochts\u003c/em>, or broken – call for the baked matzo to be broken up and then mixed with water again.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While they might not be perfectly in keeping with the spirit of the holiday, Jochnowitz, the Yiddish scholar and culinary historian, says she, like many others, will keep matzo brei and similar items on her Passover table.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You might as well stay in Egypt if you can't have matzo balls,\" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like so many holiday dishes, matzo brei gets its staying power from family tradition and memory as much as from flavor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Shahar says that some patrons of the Matzahbrei food stand look at his listings of herbed sauces and sauteed mushrooms and then go off-menu, asking if he can make plain old matzo brei, just like their beloved father or grandmother used to make.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"No fillings, no toppings,\" he laughs. \"Just matzo brei.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Marin County Decision to Allow Local Slaughter Fires Up a Debate",
"title": "Marin County Decision to Allow Local Slaughter Fires Up a Debate",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>One vision of a progressive food system celebrates diverse local farms and an approach to meat production that reduces the suffering of animals eventually slated to be slaughtered.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But another vision insists that animal slaughter will never expunge its inherently inhumane nature, and that only plants should feed a growing global population.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Which is more progressive? And which is more sustainable? In many communities, food activists are too busy combating new concentrated animal feeding operations (CAFOs) or looking for alternatives to large-scale commodity crop production to debate the finer points of niche issues like local animal slaughter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That’s not the case in Marin County, California, \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2005/11/05/us/organic-farmings-american-heartland-awaits-royals.html\">a stronghold of the organic and local food movements\u003c/a>, where a recent choice by the county board of supervisors \u003ca href=\"http://www.marincounty.org/~/media/files/maringov/board-actions/2017/march/17031414cdadevpcodeltr.pdf?la=en\">to allow small-scale local animal slaughter\u003c/a> has fueled a fight over the meaning of sustainable food policies.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To some locals, the reversal of the ban on all animal slaughter that the board enacted in 2003 adds another positive chapter to the county’s storied local food ethos.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“If you do not encourage the model of more local, sustainable, transparent food systems, then you’re going to end up with Monsanto and Swift and the large conglomerates producing food in a manner that is unhealthy and environmentally completely inappropriate,” said Mark Pasternak, a rabbit farmer and the owner of \u003ca href=\"http://www.devilsgulchranch.com/index.html\">Devil’s Gulch Ranch\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But to others, \u003ca href=\"http://civileats.com/2017/01/10/sustainable-meat-supporters-and-vegan-activists-both-claim-bullying/\">the very phrase “sustainable meat” is an oxymoron\u003c/a>, an impossibility. By permitting any animal slaughter—even the small-scale, local kind—Marin County is regressing and papering over the sins of animal agriculture, they say.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Small-Scale Slaughter Permitted\u003cbr>\n\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nThe change in the code, \u003ca href=\"http://www.marinij.com/article/NO/20170314/NEWS/170319891\">unanimously approved by the board of supervisors last month\u003c/a>, allows small-scale slaughter of poultry—less than 20,000 birds or rabbits per year—and permits mobile slaughter units for all kinds of animals, including cows, pigs, and poultry to visit farms. The county won’t be inspecting slaughter operations, said Jeremy Tejirian, a planning manager for the county, although the \u003ca href=\"https://www.fsis.usda.gov/wps/portal/fsis/topics/food-safety-education/get-answers/food-safety-fact-sheets/production-and-inspection/slaughter-inspection-101/slaughter-inspection-101\">USDA inspects all slaughter units\u003c/a> for cows and pigs, including the mobile units that Marin is now using.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Marin County had considered allowing brick-and-mortar slaughterhouses, but decided against it. Officials also thought about retaining a rabbit slaughter ban when some residents protested the killing of animals that are also popular household pets, but ended up lifting it as well.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Supporters say lifting the ban will allow them to keep a great portion of the meat supply chain local, while also growing new aspects of their businesses. The rule change also highlights the limited number of options for small farmers everywhere, even in a place like Marin County, where there exists both demand for and supply of locally raised meat. Previously, farmers and ranchers had to send their animals to sometimes far-distant slaughterhouses for processing. Some Marin poultry farmers send their birds to Stockton or Sacramento, nearly 100 miles away. And though \u003ca href=\"http://www.marinsunfarms.com/about-us/\">the nearest beef processing plant\u003c/a> is just over the Sonoma county line to the north of Marin, \u003ca href=\"http://civileats.com/2017/03/28/meat-processing-in-a-box/\">minimizing or eliminating animal transport\u003c/a> is key to humane treatment of poultry and livestock.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And that Sonoma County slaughterhouse has taken over the operations from Rancho Feeding, which earned notoriety after employees admitted to \u003ca href=\"http://www.pressdemocrat.com/news/5185001-181/rancho-feeding-corp-co-owner-sentenced\">slaughtering diseased and uninspected cows\u003c/a>, leading to a federal recall of 8.7 million pounds of beef.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fifty years ago, there were about 10,000 slaughtering facilities scattered throughout the United States. Then in 1967, Congress passed the \u003ca href=\"https://www.farmtoconsumer.org/blog/2015/09/10/the-wholesome-meat-act-of-1967-disaster-for-small-slaughterhouses-from-the-start/\">Wholesome Meat Act\u003c/a>, which mandated that state slaughter rules be at least as strict as federal ones. The act ended up driving major consolidation in the meat processing industry, and today, there are fewer than 3,000 slaughterhouses throughout the country.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Federal inspections are required for all large animal slaughter operations, and for poultry slaughter operations that process more than 20,000 animals per year. State regulations govern smaller poultry operations, and in California, only county rules cover poultry operations slaughtering fewer than 5,000 animals per year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Across California’s 58 counties, rules regulating animal slaughter vary considerably, with urbanized areas generally having stricter limits, said Dave Runsten, the policy director for the \u003ca href=\"http://www.caff.org/\">Community Alliance with Family Farmers\u003c/a>, a California advocacy group.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>The Debate Rages On\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>People on both sides of the issue hold strong opinions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://miyokoskitchen.com/\">Miyoko Schinner\u003c/a>, an author, \u003ca href=\"http://www.artisanveganlife.com/\">vegan chef\u003c/a>, and animal rights activist based in Marin takes issue with the growing local, grass-fed beef movement. When applied to meat, terms like “local,” “humane,” and “farm-to-table” are just catch phrases that obscure the reality that meat will never feed the 9 billion people projected to populate the world by 2050, she said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Grass-fed may be more sustainable than CAFOs, but it’s not as sustainable as plants,” she said. “In my view, there’s so much more you can do with seven acres to grow plants and feed people.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lifting the ban on animal slaughter will encourage more meat consumption, Schinner said. “What that is doing is promoting the myth of sustainable animal agriculture,” she added. “It’s making people feel better about continuing to eat animal products.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On the other hand, humane meat advocated say that allowing on-farm and small-scale animal slaughter enables farmers of pasture-raised chickens to retain more control over their product. It’s also a more humane alternative to industrialized slaughterhouses, in which dozens of chickens stream by on an assembly line every minute, making inspection difficult, Runsten said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“It’s a thing that used to be done on farms all the time,” he added. “If more of them took the path that Marin took, and said this is a right of farmers to do that, I think it would open up more opportunities for people.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Additionally, there’s a bottleneck in the local food supply chain under current practices as farmers end up having to reserve slots in slaughterhouses months ahead of time, said Pete Kennedy, who is on the board of directors for the \u003ca href=\"https://www.farmtoconsumer.org/\">Farm-to-Consumer Legal Defense Fund\u003c/a>, which advocates for less restrictive regulations on raw milk and small-scale animal slaughter. On-farm slaughter will help relieve the holdup.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Allowing local, on-farm slaughter “is really just a chance to improve the local infrastructure and better meet the demand for locally-produced meat,” said Kennedy, whose group is advocating for\u003ca href=\"http://civileats.com/2015/11/04/could-this-bill-make-local-meat-more-affordable-prime-act/\">legislation that would legalize the sale of custom-processed meat\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In addition, unspoken don’t-ask-don’t-tell animal slaughter practices common in California leave farmers in legal limbo, said Pasternak of Devil’s Gulch Ranch. Better to explicitly approve slaughter, as Marin County has now done, he said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“You need to know before you spend the money, time, and effort that you’re able to do it,” said Pasternak, whose farm is outside the areas zoned for animal slaughter. “It’s critical for young farmers, beginning farmers, and any farmers, if they want to invest the money in diversifying, in selling their products.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pasternak also pointed to aesthetic benefits of lifting the ban. Farms are commercial enterprises, and dirty, sometimes noisy activities—such as slaughtering animals, spraying fields, and driving tractors—are necessary to retain the open space Marin residents cherish. Many wealthy people in the area near his farm “want to look at nice green pastures with a cow, but don’t want any commercial activity with smells or sounds or dust,” Pasternak said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But in Marin County, \u003ca href=\"http://www.marineconomicconsulting.com/Presentations/CAMS%20Forum%20030117.pdf\">some residents worry\u003c/a> animal slaughter could harm the local economy. “I think it has the potential to be an unmitigated disaster,” said \u003ca href=\"http://www.marineconomicconsulting.com/consultants.php\">Jon Haveman, an economist in Marin County\u003c/a>. He said he doesn’t oppose all animal slaughter and just believes it needs to be done in more suitable places with fewer tourists and residents.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Declining residential property values could threaten the county’s budget, he said. Tourism could decline. Additionally, he worries about water use in a drought-prone area. Slaughtering requires large amounts of water–130 gallons per cow, and five to 10 gallons per chicken–and the guts and offal have to be disposed of lest predators cart them off. Less stringent inspection rules for smaller slaughter operations could lead people to cheat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some people in Marin County are already plotting legal recourse. “There are people looking at it pretty aggressively, and I’d be pretty surprised if there was not legal action brought,” Haveman said.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>About the Author\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://civileats.com/author/aorlowski/\" target=\"_blank\">Aaron Orlowski\u003c/a> is a California-based environment, food and science journalist. He often writes about agriculture, fish (both farmed and wild), water resources, and renewable energy. Before settling on the West Coast, he worked for newspapers in North and South Dakota. In his spare time, he attempts to salvage untested recipes in the kitchen.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "In a county famous for its support of local food, the uproar over lifting Marin’s ban on local slaughter raises questions about sustainable food policy.",
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"description": "In a county famous for its support of local food, the uproar over lifting Marin’s ban on local slaughter raises questions about sustainable food policy.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>One vision of a progressive food system celebrates diverse local farms and an approach to meat production that reduces the suffering of animals eventually slated to be slaughtered.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But another vision insists that animal slaughter will never expunge its inherently inhumane nature, and that only plants should feed a growing global population.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Which is more progressive? And which is more sustainable? In many communities, food activists are too busy combating new concentrated animal feeding operations (CAFOs) or looking for alternatives to large-scale commodity crop production to debate the finer points of niche issues like local animal slaughter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That’s not the case in Marin County, California, \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2005/11/05/us/organic-farmings-american-heartland-awaits-royals.html\">a stronghold of the organic and local food movements\u003c/a>, where a recent choice by the county board of supervisors \u003ca href=\"http://www.marincounty.org/~/media/files/maringov/board-actions/2017/march/17031414cdadevpcodeltr.pdf?la=en\">to allow small-scale local animal slaughter\u003c/a> has fueled a fight over the meaning of sustainable food policies.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To some locals, the reversal of the ban on all animal slaughter that the board enacted in 2003 adds another positive chapter to the county’s storied local food ethos.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“If you do not encourage the model of more local, sustainable, transparent food systems, then you’re going to end up with Monsanto and Swift and the large conglomerates producing food in a manner that is unhealthy and environmentally completely inappropriate,” said Mark Pasternak, a rabbit farmer and the owner of \u003ca href=\"http://www.devilsgulchranch.com/index.html\">Devil’s Gulch Ranch\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But to others, \u003ca href=\"http://civileats.com/2017/01/10/sustainable-meat-supporters-and-vegan-activists-both-claim-bullying/\">the very phrase “sustainable meat” is an oxymoron\u003c/a>, an impossibility. By permitting any animal slaughter—even the small-scale, local kind—Marin County is regressing and papering over the sins of animal agriculture, they say.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Small-Scale Slaughter Permitted\u003cbr>\n\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nThe change in the code, \u003ca href=\"http://www.marinij.com/article/NO/20170314/NEWS/170319891\">unanimously approved by the board of supervisors last month\u003c/a>, allows small-scale slaughter of poultry—less than 20,000 birds or rabbits per year—and permits mobile slaughter units for all kinds of animals, including cows, pigs, and poultry to visit farms. The county won’t be inspecting slaughter operations, said Jeremy Tejirian, a planning manager for the county, although the \u003ca href=\"https://www.fsis.usda.gov/wps/portal/fsis/topics/food-safety-education/get-answers/food-safety-fact-sheets/production-and-inspection/slaughter-inspection-101/slaughter-inspection-101\">USDA inspects all slaughter units\u003c/a> for cows and pigs, including the mobile units that Marin is now using.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Marin County had considered allowing brick-and-mortar slaughterhouses, but decided against it. Officials also thought about retaining a rabbit slaughter ban when some residents protested the killing of animals that are also popular household pets, but ended up lifting it as well.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Supporters say lifting the ban will allow them to keep a great portion of the meat supply chain local, while also growing new aspects of their businesses. The rule change also highlights the limited number of options for small farmers everywhere, even in a place like Marin County, where there exists both demand for and supply of locally raised meat. Previously, farmers and ranchers had to send their animals to sometimes far-distant slaughterhouses for processing. Some Marin poultry farmers send their birds to Stockton or Sacramento, nearly 100 miles away. And though \u003ca href=\"http://www.marinsunfarms.com/about-us/\">the nearest beef processing plant\u003c/a> is just over the Sonoma county line to the north of Marin, \u003ca href=\"http://civileats.com/2017/03/28/meat-processing-in-a-box/\">minimizing or eliminating animal transport\u003c/a> is key to humane treatment of poultry and livestock.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And that Sonoma County slaughterhouse has taken over the operations from Rancho Feeding, which earned notoriety after employees admitted to \u003ca href=\"http://www.pressdemocrat.com/news/5185001-181/rancho-feeding-corp-co-owner-sentenced\">slaughtering diseased and uninspected cows\u003c/a>, leading to a federal recall of 8.7 million pounds of beef.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fifty years ago, there were about 10,000 slaughtering facilities scattered throughout the United States. Then in 1967, Congress passed the \u003ca href=\"https://www.farmtoconsumer.org/blog/2015/09/10/the-wholesome-meat-act-of-1967-disaster-for-small-slaughterhouses-from-the-start/\">Wholesome Meat Act\u003c/a>, which mandated that state slaughter rules be at least as strict as federal ones. The act ended up driving major consolidation in the meat processing industry, and today, there are fewer than 3,000 slaughterhouses throughout the country.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Federal inspections are required for all large animal slaughter operations, and for poultry slaughter operations that process more than 20,000 animals per year. State regulations govern smaller poultry operations, and in California, only county rules cover poultry operations slaughtering fewer than 5,000 animals per year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Across California’s 58 counties, rules regulating animal slaughter vary considerably, with urbanized areas generally having stricter limits, said Dave Runsten, the policy director for the \u003ca href=\"http://www.caff.org/\">Community Alliance with Family Farmers\u003c/a>, a California advocacy group.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>The Debate Rages On\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>People on both sides of the issue hold strong opinions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://miyokoskitchen.com/\">Miyoko Schinner\u003c/a>, an author, \u003ca href=\"http://www.artisanveganlife.com/\">vegan chef\u003c/a>, and animal rights activist based in Marin takes issue with the growing local, grass-fed beef movement. When applied to meat, terms like “local,” “humane,” and “farm-to-table” are just catch phrases that obscure the reality that meat will never feed the 9 billion people projected to populate the world by 2050, she said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Grass-fed may be more sustainable than CAFOs, but it’s not as sustainable as plants,” she said. “In my view, there’s so much more you can do with seven acres to grow plants and feed people.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lifting the ban on animal slaughter will encourage more meat consumption, Schinner said. “What that is doing is promoting the myth of sustainable animal agriculture,” she added. “It’s making people feel better about continuing to eat animal products.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On the other hand, humane meat advocated say that allowing on-farm and small-scale animal slaughter enables farmers of pasture-raised chickens to retain more control over their product. It’s also a more humane alternative to industrialized slaughterhouses, in which dozens of chickens stream by on an assembly line every minute, making inspection difficult, Runsten said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“It’s a thing that used to be done on farms all the time,” he added. “If more of them took the path that Marin took, and said this is a right of farmers to do that, I think it would open up more opportunities for people.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Additionally, there’s a bottleneck in the local food supply chain under current practices as farmers end up having to reserve slots in slaughterhouses months ahead of time, said Pete Kennedy, who is on the board of directors for the \u003ca href=\"https://www.farmtoconsumer.org/\">Farm-to-Consumer Legal Defense Fund\u003c/a>, which advocates for less restrictive regulations on raw milk and small-scale animal slaughter. On-farm slaughter will help relieve the holdup.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Allowing local, on-farm slaughter “is really just a chance to improve the local infrastructure and better meet the demand for locally-produced meat,” said Kennedy, whose group is advocating for\u003ca href=\"http://civileats.com/2015/11/04/could-this-bill-make-local-meat-more-affordable-prime-act/\">legislation that would legalize the sale of custom-processed meat\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In addition, unspoken don’t-ask-don’t-tell animal slaughter practices common in California leave farmers in legal limbo, said Pasternak of Devil’s Gulch Ranch. Better to explicitly approve slaughter, as Marin County has now done, he said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“You need to know before you spend the money, time, and effort that you’re able to do it,” said Pasternak, whose farm is outside the areas zoned for animal slaughter. “It’s critical for young farmers, beginning farmers, and any farmers, if they want to invest the money in diversifying, in selling their products.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pasternak also pointed to aesthetic benefits of lifting the ban. Farms are commercial enterprises, and dirty, sometimes noisy activities—such as slaughtering animals, spraying fields, and driving tractors—are necessary to retain the open space Marin residents cherish. Many wealthy people in the area near his farm “want to look at nice green pastures with a cow, but don’t want any commercial activity with smells or sounds or dust,” Pasternak said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But in Marin County, \u003ca href=\"http://www.marineconomicconsulting.com/Presentations/CAMS%20Forum%20030117.pdf\">some residents worry\u003c/a> animal slaughter could harm the local economy. “I think it has the potential to be an unmitigated disaster,” said \u003ca href=\"http://www.marineconomicconsulting.com/consultants.php\">Jon Haveman, an economist in Marin County\u003c/a>. He said he doesn’t oppose all animal slaughter and just believes it needs to be done in more suitable places with fewer tourists and residents.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Declining residential property values could threaten the county’s budget, he said. Tourism could decline. Additionally, he worries about water use in a drought-prone area. Slaughtering requires large amounts of water–130 gallons per cow, and five to 10 gallons per chicken–and the guts and offal have to be disposed of lest predators cart them off. Less stringent inspection rules for smaller slaughter operations could lead people to cheat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some people in Marin County are already plotting legal recourse. “There are people looking at it pretty aggressively, and I’d be pretty surprised if there was not legal action brought,” Haveman said.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"order": 1
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"id": "code-switch-life-kit",
"title": "Code Switch / Life Kit",
"info": "\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em>, which listeners will hear in the first part of the hour, has fearless and much-needed conversations about race. Hosted by journalists of color, the show tackles the subject of race head-on, exploring how it impacts every part of society — from politics and pop culture to history, sports and more.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em>, which will be in the second part of the hour, guides you through spaces and feelings no one prepares you for — from finances to mental health, from workplace microaggressions to imposter syndrome, from relationships to parenting. The show features experts with real world experience and shares their knowledge. Because everyone needs a little help being human.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/510312/codeswitch\">\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/lifekit\">\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />",
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"meta": {
"site": "radio",
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"id": "commonwealth-club",
"title": "Commonwealth Club of California Podcast",
"info": "The Commonwealth Club of California is the nation's oldest and largest public affairs forum. As a non-partisan forum, The Club brings to the public airwaves diverse viewpoints on important topics. The Club's weekly radio broadcast - the oldest in the U.S., dating back to 1924 - is carried across the nation on public radio stations and is now podcasting. Our website archive features audio of our recent programs, as well as selected speeches from our long and distinguished history. This podcast feed is usually updated twice a week and is always un-edited.",
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"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Commonwealth-Club-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
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"meta": {
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"source": "Commonwealth Club of California"
},
"link": "/radio/program/commonwealth-club",
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cDovL3d3dy5jb21tb253ZWFsdGhjbHViLm9yZy9hdWRpby9wb2RjYXN0L3dlZWtseS54bWw",
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"id": "forum",
"title": "Forum",
"tagline": "The conversation starts here",
"info": "KQED’s live call-in program discussing local, state, national and international issues, as well as in-depth interviews.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 9am-11am, 10pm-11pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Forum-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
"imageAlt": "KQED Forum with Mina Kim and Alexis Madrigal",
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"source": "kqed",
"order": 9
},
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM5NTU3MzgxNjMz",
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"id": "freakonomics-radio",
"title": "Freakonomics Radio",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "http://freakonomics.com/",
"airtime": "SUN 1am-2am, SAT 3pm-4pm",
"meta": {
"site": "radio",
"source": "WNYC"
},
"link": "/radio/program/freakonomics-radio",
"subscribe": {
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/freakonomics-radio/id354668519",
"tuneIn": "https://tunein.com/podcasts/WNYC-Podcasts/Freakonomics-Radio-p272293/",
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},
"fresh-air": {
"id": "fresh-air",
"title": "Fresh Air",
"info": "Hosted by Terry Gross, \u003cem>Fresh Air from WHYY\u003c/em> is the Peabody Award-winning weekday magazine of contemporary arts and issues. One of public radio's most popular programs, Fresh Air features intimate conversations with today's biggest luminaries.",
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"meta": {
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"link": "/radio/program/fresh-air",
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=214089682&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory",
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"info": "A live production of NPR and WBUR Boston, in collaboration with stations across the country, Here & Now reflects the fluid world of news as it's happening in the middle of the day, with timely, in-depth news, interviews and conversation. Hosted by Robin Young, Jeremy Hobson and Tonya Mosley.",
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"rss": "https://feeds.npr.org/510051/podcast.xml"
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},
"hidden-brain": {
"id": "hidden-brain",
"title": "Hidden Brain",
"info": "Shankar Vedantam uses science and storytelling to reveal the unconscious patterns that drive human behavior, shape our choices and direct our relationships.",
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"airtime": "SUN 7pm-8pm",
"meta": {
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"source": "NPR"
},
"link": "/radio/program/hidden-brain",
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},
"how-i-built-this": {
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"title": "How I Built This with Guy Raz",
"info": "Guy Raz dives into the stories behind some of the world's best known companies. How I Built This weaves a narrative journey about innovators, entrepreneurs and idealists—and the movements they built.",
"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/05/howIBuiltThis.png",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.npr.org/podcasts/510313/how-i-built-this",
"airtime": "SUN 7:30pm-8pm",
"meta": {
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"source": "npr"
},
"link": "/radio/program/how-i-built-this",
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"npr": "https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/3zxy",
"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/how-i-built-this-with-guy-raz/id1150510297?mt=2",
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"hyphenacion": {
"id": "hyphenacion",
"title": "Hyphenación",
"tagline": "Where conversation and cultura meet",
"info": "What kind of no sabo word is Hyphenación? For us, it’s about living within a hyphenation. Like being a third-gen Mexican-American from the Texas border now living that Bay Area Chicano life. Like Xorje! Each week we bring together a couple of hyphenated Latinos to talk all about personal life choices: family, careers, relationships, belonging … everything is on the table. ",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2025/03/Hyphenacion_FinalAssets_PodcastTile.png",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "/podcasts/hyphenacion",
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"order": 15
},
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"spotify": "https://open.spotify.com/show/2p3Fifq96nw9BPcmFdIq0o?si=39209f7b25774f38",
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},
"jerrybrown": {
"id": "jerrybrown",
"title": "The Political Mind of Jerry Brown",
"tagline": "Lessons from a lifetime in politics",
"info": "The Political Mind of Jerry Brown brings listeners the wisdom of the former Governor, Mayor, and presidential candidate. Scott Shafer interviewed Brown for more than 40 hours, covering the former governor's life and half-century in the political game – and Brown has some lessons he'd like to share. ",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/The-Political-Mind-of-Jerry-Brown-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "/podcasts/jerrybrown",
"meta": {
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"source": "kqed",
"order": 18
},
"link": "/podcasts/jerrybrown",
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}
},
"latino-usa": {
"id": "latino-usa",
"title": "Latino USA",
"airtime": "MON 1am-2am, SUN 6pm-7pm",
"info": "Latino USA, the radio journal of news and culture, is the only national, English-language radio program produced from a Latino perspective.",
"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/latinoUsa.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "http://latinousa.org/",
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},
"link": "/radio/program/latino-usa",
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=79681317&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory",
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"rss": "https://feeds.npr.org/510016/podcast.xml"
}
},
"marketplace": {
"id": "marketplace",
"title": "Marketplace",
"info": "Our flagship program, helmed by Kai Ryssdal, examines what the day in money delivered, through stories, conversations, newsworthy numbers and more. Updated Monday through Friday at about 3:30 p.m. PT.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 4pm-4:30pm, MON-WED 6:30pm-7pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Marketplace-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.marketplace.org/",
"meta": {
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"source": "American Public Media"
},
"link": "/radio/program/marketplace",
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"rss": "https://feeds.publicradio.org/public_feeds/marketplace-pm/rss/rss"
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},
"masters-of-scale": {
"id": "masters-of-scale",
"title": "Masters of Scale",
"info": "Masters of Scale is an original podcast in which LinkedIn co-founder and Greylock Partner Reid Hoffman sets out to describe and prove theories that explain how great entrepreneurs take their companies from zero to a gazillion in ingenious fashion.",
"airtime": "Every other Wednesday June 12 through October 16 at 8pm (repeats Thursdays at 2am)",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Masters-of-Scale-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://mastersofscale.com/",
"meta": {
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"source": "WaitWhat"
},
"link": "/radio/program/masters-of-scale",
"subscribe": {
"apple": "http://mastersofscale.app.link/",
"rss": "https://rss.art19.com/masters-of-scale"
}
},
"mindshift": {
"id": "mindshift",
"title": "MindShift",
"tagline": "A podcast about the future of learning and how we raise our kids",
"info": "The MindShift podcast explores the innovations in education that are shaping how kids learn. Hosts Ki Sung and Katrina Schwartz introduce listeners to educators, researchers, parents and students who are developing effective ways to improve how kids learn. We cover topics like how fed-up administrators are developing surprising tactics to deal with classroom disruptions; how listening to podcasts are helping kids develop reading skills; the consequences of overparenting; and why interdisciplinary learning can engage students on all ends of the traditional achievement spectrum. This podcast is part of the MindShift education site, a division of KQED News. KQED is an NPR/PBS member station based in San Francisco. You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Mindshift-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
"imageAlt": "KQED MindShift: How We Will Learn",
"officialWebsiteLink": "/mindshift/",
"meta": {
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"source": "kqed",
"order": 12
},
"link": "/podcasts/mindshift",
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"apple": "https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/mindshift-podcast/id1078765985",
"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM1NzY0NjAwNDI5",
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"stitcher": "https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/kqed/stories-teachers-share",
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}
},
"morning-edition": {
"id": "morning-edition",
"title": "Morning Edition",
"info": "\u003cem>Morning Edition\u003c/em> takes listeners around the country and the world with multi-faceted stories and commentaries every weekday. Hosts Steve Inskeep, David Greene and Rachel Martin bring you the latest breaking news and features to prepare you for the day.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 3am-9am",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Morning-Edition-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.npr.org/programs/morning-edition/",
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"link": "/radio/program/morning-edition"
},
"onourwatch": {
"id": "onourwatch",
"title": "On Our Watch",
"tagline": "Deeply-reported investigative journalism",
"info": "For decades, the process for how police police themselves has been inconsistent – if not opaque. In some states, like California, these proceedings were completely hidden. After a new police transparency law unsealed scores of internal affairs files, our reporters set out to examine these cases and the shadow world of police discipline. On Our Watch brings listeners into the rooms where officers are questioned and witnesses are interrogated to find out who this system is really protecting. Is it the officers, or the public they've sworn to serve?",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/On-Our-Watch-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
"imageAlt": "On Our Watch from NPR and KQED",
"officialWebsiteLink": "/podcasts/onourwatch",
"meta": {
"site": "news",
"source": "kqed",
"order": 11
},
"link": "/podcasts/onourwatch",
"subscribe": {
"apple": "https://podcasts.apple.com/podcast/id1567098962",
"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5ucHIub3JnLzUxMDM2MC9wb2RjYXN0LnhtbD9zYz1nb29nbGVwb2RjYXN0cw",
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"stitcher": "https://www.stitcher.com/show/on-our-watch",
"rss": "https://feeds.npr.org/510360/podcast.xml"
}
},
"on-the-media": {
"id": "on-the-media",
"title": "On The Media",
"info": "Our weekly podcast explores how the media 'sausage' is made, casts an incisive eye on fluctuations in the marketplace of ideas, and examines threats to the freedom of information and expression in America and abroad. For one hour a week, the show tries to lift the veil from the process of \"making media,\" especially news media, because it's through that lens that we see the world and the world sees us",
"airtime": "SUN 2pm-3pm, MON 12am-1am",
"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/onTheMedia.png",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.wnycstudios.org/shows/otm",
"meta": {
"site": "news",
"source": "wnyc"
},
"link": "/radio/program/on-the-media",
"subscribe": {
"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/on-the-media/id73330715?mt=2",
"tuneIn": "https://tunein.com/radio/On-the-Media-p69/",
"rss": "http://feeds.wnyc.org/onthemedia"
}
},
"pbs-newshour": {
"id": "pbs-newshour",
"title": "PBS NewsHour",
"info": "Analysis, background reports and updates from the PBS NewsHour putting today's news in context.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 3pm-4pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/PBS-News-Hour-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.pbs.org/newshour/",
"meta": {
"site": "news",
"source": "pbs"
},
"link": "/radio/program/pbs-newshour",
"subscribe": {
"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/pbs-newshour-full-show/id394432287?mt=2",
"tuneIn": "https://tunein.com/radio/PBS-NewsHour---Full-Show-p425698/",
"rss": "https://www.pbs.org/newshour/feeds/rss/podcasts/show"
}
},
"perspectives": {
"id": "perspectives",
"title": "Perspectives",
"tagline": "KQED's series of daily listener commentaries since 1991",
"info": "KQED's series of daily listener commentaries since 1991.",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2025/01/Perspectives_Tile_Final.jpg",
"imageAlt": "KQED Perspectives",
"officialWebsiteLink": "/perspectives/",
"meta": {
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"source": "kqed",
"order": 14
},
"link": "/perspectives",
"subscribe": {
"apple": "https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/id73801135",
"npr": "https://www.npr.org/podcasts/432309616/perspectives",
"rss": "https://ww2.kqed.org/perspectives/category/perspectives/feed/",
"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly93dzIua3FlZC5vcmcvcGVyc3BlY3RpdmVzL2NhdGVnb3J5L3BlcnNwZWN0aXZlcy9mZWVkLw"
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},
"planet-money": {
"id": "planet-money",
"title": "Planet Money",
"info": "The economy explained. Imagine you could call up a friend and say, Meet me at the bar and tell me what's going on with the economy. Now imagine that's actually a fun evening.",
"airtime": "SUN 3pm-4pm",
"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/planetmoney.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.npr.org/sections/money/",
"meta": {
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"source": "npr"
},
"link": "/radio/program/planet-money",
"subscribe": {
"npr": "https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/M4f5",
"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/planet-money/id290783428?mt=2",
"tuneIn": "https://tunein.com/podcasts/Business--Economics-Podcasts/Planet-Money-p164680/",
"rss": "https://feeds.npr.org/510289/podcast.xml"
}
},
"politicalbreakdown": {
"id": "politicalbreakdown",
"title": "Political Breakdown",
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