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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2008/07/asianculinaryforum1.jpg\" alt=\"asian culinary forum\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The \u003ca href=\"http://www.asianculinaryforum.org/\">Asian Culinary Forum\u003c/a> is hosting a panel discussion with a group of celebrated San Francisco chefs. They'll share how they developed their signature styles and how their personal and professional experiences have shaped their vision of Asian cuisine. Learn about Asian flavors and how local chefs successfully challenge public expectations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>The panelists are:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nKelly Degala, executive chef, \u003ca href=\"http://web.mac.com/presavi/Pres_a_Vi/Pres_a_Vi_Home.html\">Pres a Vi\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://web.mac.com/vadevi/Va_de_Vi/Va_de_Vi_Home.html\">Va de Vis\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nEric Gower, personal chef and author \u003ca href=\"http://www.breakawaycook.com/\">Breakaway Cook\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nMichelle Mah, formerly executive chef, \u003ca href=\"http://www.ponzurestaurant.com/\">Ponzu\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nKirti Pant, executive chef, \u003ca href=\"http://www.junnoon.com/\">Junnoon\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nCharles Phan, executive chef, Slanted Door \u003ca href=\"http://www.slanteddoor.com/\">Slanted Door\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nLinda Carucci (moderator), chef director, International Culinary School at \u003ca href=\"http://www.artinstitutes.edu/AreasOfStudy/TheInternationalCulinarySchool.aspx?ID=8/\">The Art Institute of California -- San Francisco\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://www.asianculinaryforum.org/ACF/Asian_Culinary_Forum_-_Events.html\">Are You What You Cook\u003c/a> Panel discussion and wine reception. Slanted Door and Va de Vi will provide a light buffet of savory appetizers. Elaine Villamin, Eden Canyon Vineyards’ owner and winemaker, will be pouring tastes of her family’s fine Cabernet blend. Cookbooks written by the chefs will be available for purchase on-site from Book Passage, and the chefs will be happy to sign copies following the evening’s discussion.\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Where:\u003c/strong> One Ferry Building, 2nd Floor, San Francisco\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>When:\u003c/strong> 6:00pm-8:30pm, Monday, July 21, 2008\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>How:\u003c/strong> $35 general admission, $25 restaurant trade or full-time student (with ID) \u003ca href=\"https://www.123signup.com/register?id=tmkxc\">Register\u003c/a> to attend.\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Why:\u003c/strong> What's particularly compelling about the panel is the amazing diversity of their backgrounds and styles of cooking. For example, consider Eric Gower, a chef we \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2007/09/19/meet-eric-gower/\">interviewed\u003c/a> on Bay Area Bites last year. We also \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2007/09/26/cook-by-the-book-the-breakaway-cook/%20\">reviewed his latest book\u003c/a>, the Breakaway Cook. His experience living in Japan and curiosity about Asian ingredients have inspired a unique perspective and cuisine. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here's an example of his style of cooking. This recipe comes from \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/006085166X/kqedorg-20\">The Breakaway Cook\u003c/a> and is perfect for Summer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Moroccan Morokyu\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 (or more) fresh cucumbers, peeled, seeded, and sliced into spears about 3 inces long and 1/2 inch thick\u003cbr>\n1 Tablespoon yellow miso\u003cbr>\n1 teaspoon pomegranate molasses\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Arrange the cucumber spears on a plate. Mix together the miso and pomegranate molasses in a small bowl and place the bowl on the plate to serve. \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2008/07/asianculinaryforum1.jpg\" alt=\"asian culinary forum\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The \u003ca href=\"http://www.asianculinaryforum.org/\">Asian Culinary Forum\u003c/a> is hosting a panel discussion with a group of celebrated San Francisco chefs. They'll share how they developed their signature styles and how their personal and professional experiences have shaped their vision of Asian cuisine. Learn about Asian flavors and how local chefs successfully challenge public expectations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>The panelists are:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nKelly Degala, executive chef, \u003ca href=\"http://web.mac.com/presavi/Pres_a_Vi/Pres_a_Vi_Home.html\">Pres a Vi\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://web.mac.com/vadevi/Va_de_Vi/Va_de_Vi_Home.html\">Va de Vis\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nEric Gower, personal chef and author \u003ca href=\"http://www.breakawaycook.com/\">Breakaway Cook\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nMichelle Mah, formerly executive chef, \u003ca href=\"http://www.ponzurestaurant.com/\">Ponzu\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nKirti Pant, executive chef, \u003ca href=\"http://www.junnoon.com/\">Junnoon\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nCharles Phan, executive chef, Slanted Door \u003ca href=\"http://www.slanteddoor.com/\">Slanted Door\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nLinda Carucci (moderator), chef director, International Culinary School at \u003ca href=\"http://www.artinstitutes.edu/AreasOfStudy/TheInternationalCulinarySchool.aspx?ID=8/\">The Art Institute of California -- San Francisco\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://www.asianculinaryforum.org/ACF/Asian_Culinary_Forum_-_Events.html\">Are You What You Cook\u003c/a> Panel discussion and wine reception. Slanted Door and Va de Vi will provide a light buffet of savory appetizers. Elaine Villamin, Eden Canyon Vineyards’ owner and winemaker, will be pouring tastes of her family’s fine Cabernet blend. Cookbooks written by the chefs will be available for purchase on-site from Book Passage, and the chefs will be happy to sign copies following the evening’s discussion.\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Where:\u003c/strong> One Ferry Building, 2nd Floor, San Francisco\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>When:\u003c/strong> 6:00pm-8:30pm, Monday, July 21, 2008\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>How:\u003c/strong> $35 general admission, $25 restaurant trade or full-time student (with ID) \u003ca href=\"https://www.123signup.com/register?id=tmkxc\">Register\u003c/a> to attend.\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Why:\u003c/strong> What's particularly compelling about the panel is the amazing diversity of their backgrounds and styles of cooking. For example, consider Eric Gower, a chef we \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2007/09/19/meet-eric-gower/\">interviewed\u003c/a> on Bay Area Bites last year. We also \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2007/09/26/cook-by-the-book-the-breakaway-cook/%20\">reviewed his latest book\u003c/a>, the Breakaway Cook. His experience living in Japan and curiosity about Asian ingredients have inspired a unique perspective and cuisine. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here's an example of his style of cooking. This recipe comes from \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/006085166X/kqedorg-20\">The Breakaway Cook\u003c/a> and is perfect for Summer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Moroccan Morokyu\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 (or more) fresh cucumbers, peeled, seeded, and sliced into spears about 3 inces long and 1/2 inch thick\u003cbr>\n1 Tablespoon yellow miso\u003cbr>\n1 teaspoon pomegranate molasses\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Arrange the cucumber spears on a plate. Mix together the miso and pomegranate molasses in a small bowl and place the bowl on the plate to serve. \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2008/07/sake1.jpg\" alt=\"sake appreciation\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sake is a popular beverage but how it pairs with food is still a mystery to most of us. While many people first encounter sake on sushi menus, where sake really shines is with izakaya or tavern style Japanese small plates. Izakaya is getting more and more popular in San Francisco. Great places to try izakaya dishes include \u003ca href=\"http://www.himerestaurant.com/\">Hime\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.oyajirestaurant.com/\">Oyaji\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.jdvhotels.com/dining/oizakaya\">O Izakaya Lounge\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here's another great opportunity to try izakaya style cuisine paired and sake. The \u003ca href=\"http://www.usajapan.org/\">Japan Society of Northern California\u003c/a>, in cooperation with \u003ca href=\"http://www.sozaisf.com/%20\">Sozai Restaurant and Sake Lounge\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://truesake.com/\">True Sake\u003c/a>, presents its next Japanese Language & Cultural Experience Workshop: Sake Appreciation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Matching food and sake is just like matching food and wine. It's a fun, imprecise process that largely depends on your own unique taste buds. What's a perfect match to one may be the ultimate mismatch to another. The important thing is what's delicious to you!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://japansocietyofnortherncalifornia.myshopify.com/products/jlcw-sake\">Sake Appreciation\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Where:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://www.sozaisf.com/%20\">Sozai Restaurant and Sake Lounge\u003c/a>, 1500 Irving St., San Francisco\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>When:\u003c/strong> 6:00pm-8:00pm, Tuesday, July 15, 2008\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>How:\u003c/strong> $30 Japan Society Language Students, $35 Japan Society Members, $45 Non-Members, Space is limited; please \u003ca href=\"http://japansocietyofnortherncalifornia.myshopify.com/products/jlcw-sake%20\">RSVP\u003c/a> by Friday, July 10th.\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Why:\u003c/strong> This informative tasting workshop will detail different types of sake and answer questions about the intricacies of food pairing. A variety of seasonal delicacies will be served during the tasting, pairing each sake with traditional and contemporary Japanese tapas, all created by Chef Mari.\u003cbr>\nNote: Although this is a language workshop and some sake-related vocabulary will be introduced, all Japanese language levels are welcome to participate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n",
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"excerpt": "Here's another great opportunity to try izakaya style cuisine paired and sake. The \u003ca href=\"http://www.usajapan.org/\">Japan Society of Northern California\u003c/a>, in cooperation with \u003ca href=\"http://www.sozaisf.com/ \">Sozai Restaurant and Sake Lounge\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://truesake.com/\">True Sake\u003c/a>, presents its next Japanese Language & Cultural Experience Workshop: Sake Appreciation.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2008/07/sake1.jpg\" alt=\"sake appreciation\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sake is a popular beverage but how it pairs with food is still a mystery to most of us. While many people first encounter sake on sushi menus, where sake really shines is with izakaya or tavern style Japanese small plates. Izakaya is getting more and more popular in San Francisco. Great places to try izakaya dishes include \u003ca href=\"http://www.himerestaurant.com/\">Hime\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.oyajirestaurant.com/\">Oyaji\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.jdvhotels.com/dining/oizakaya\">O Izakaya Lounge\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here's another great opportunity to try izakaya style cuisine paired and sake. The \u003ca href=\"http://www.usajapan.org/\">Japan Society of Northern California\u003c/a>, in cooperation with \u003ca href=\"http://www.sozaisf.com/%20\">Sozai Restaurant and Sake Lounge\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://truesake.com/\">True Sake\u003c/a>, presents its next Japanese Language & Cultural Experience Workshop: Sake Appreciation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Matching food and sake is just like matching food and wine. It's a fun, imprecise process that largely depends on your own unique taste buds. What's a perfect match to one may be the ultimate mismatch to another. The important thing is what's delicious to you!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://japansocietyofnortherncalifornia.myshopify.com/products/jlcw-sake\">Sake Appreciation\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Where:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://www.sozaisf.com/%20\">Sozai Restaurant and Sake Lounge\u003c/a>, 1500 Irving St., San Francisco\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>When:\u003c/strong> 6:00pm-8:00pm, Tuesday, July 15, 2008\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>How:\u003c/strong> $30 Japan Society Language Students, $35 Japan Society Members, $45 Non-Members, Space is limited; please \u003ca href=\"http://japansocietyofnortherncalifornia.myshopify.com/products/jlcw-sake%20\">RSVP\u003c/a> by Friday, July 10th.\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Why:\u003c/strong> This informative tasting workshop will detail different types of sake and answer questions about the intricacies of food pairing. A variety of seasonal delicacies will be served during the tasting, pairing each sake with traditional and contemporary Japanese tapas, all created by Chef Mari.\u003cbr>\nNote: Although this is a language workshop and some sake-related vocabulary will be introduced, all Japanese language levels are welcome to participate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "The Last Course: CCA Leaves Polk Street ",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2008/05/thelastcourse1.jpg\" alt=\"CCA Careme Room\" align=\"left\">The \u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://www.baychef.com/\">CCA's\u003c/a> Carême Room\u003c/strong> served its last grand buffet this past Friday. Anyone who has recently driven by that familiar corner of Polk and Turk, with its clumps of white-clad culinary students smoking on the sidewalk, would have suspected as much, what with that huge sign advertising \"Building for Lease.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With only 300 students enrolled -- down from a peak of over 2,000 -- it became untenable to sustain two separate facilities. The SF Weekly's \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfweekly.com/2007-06-06/news/burnt-chefs/full\">exposé\u003c/a> last year about the institution's \"burnt chefs\" is old news. For years already, chefs and kitchen managers (myself included) had banned CCA interns from our kitchens because of their abysmal lack of skills. Still, few of us expected to hear that the grand Polk Street location would be abandoned in favor of the Potrero Hill's cold, unwelcoming space.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Going out in style, the academy hosted a multi-course buffet representing the culinary trends of each decade since their Polk Street kitchens opened. We moved from Salmon Coulibiac to blackened fish, through gooey macaroni and cheese to the \"mo-ga\" of present fascination (molecular gastronomy, the woman in front of me in line explained).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My husband, gesturing toward one particularly complex and well-executed \u003ca href=\"http://www.epicurious.com/tools/fooddictionary/entry?id=1240%20\">ballontine\u003c/a>, asked me \"Is that a turducken?\" Even I, with my 12-inch, dimpled-blade slicing knife that I haven't used since my final garde manger class in 1996, had to laugh. There were the usual glistening ice sculpture, two red-meat carving stations, and the ever popular and elaborate dessert table.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Standing before the deeply sculpted, soaring columns of the main dining room, current CCA president, Jennifer White, tried to put a positive spin on the evening. She reminded us that the heart and spirit of the school resides not in the building but rather in those gathered in the room.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The indomitable Chef Hervé Le Biavant, former executive chef (booted out a couple of years ago by the same administrators responsible for the academy's overeager expansion) returned for the evening. Several of us didn't recognize him at first, as he was wearing decidedly civilian clothes rather than his usual spotless whites, but seeing him helped stoke the nostalgic embers. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Every alum has a Chef Hervé story. Mine involves a fingertip cut off in butchery class, and his assurance, in his surprisingly un-gruff school nurse role, that I didn't need to go to the emergency room. He wrapped an extra Band-aid then a finger cot around my forefinger, advised me to be more careful when scraping around chicken bones with a flexible blade, and then told me to get back to class. Amazingly, my fingertip grew back, though there's a bit of a dent in the nail to remind me of my deboning lesson: a fancy knife is only as good as the person who uses it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Next Course\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nTheir new restaurant, \u003cstrong>Carême 350\u003c/strong>, opens on Wednesday, May 28. Enjoy 25% off if you bring one guest, 50% off if you bring two guests, and 75% off if you bring three or more guests. Discount is only valid on Wednesday, May 28, only between the hours of 11:30-am and 1 pm. Discount will be deducted from the total bill.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On Thursday, June 5 they'll be serving a special lunch and dinner menu: 3 1/2 courses for $3.50. Not sure what half a course is, but if anyone can deliver half of what's expected, the CCA certainly can.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Carême 350\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n350 Rhode Island (at 16th Street)\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA\u003cbr>\n(415) 216-4329\u003cbr>\nLunch: 11:30 am – 1:00 pm\u003cbr>\nDinner: 6:00 pm – 8 pm\u003cbr>\nGrand buffet every Friday\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The indomitable Chef Hervé Le Biavant, former executive chef (booted out a couple of years ago by the same administrators responsible for the academy's overeager expansion) returned for the evening. Several of us didn't recognize him at first, as he was wearing decidedly civilian clothes rather than his usual spotless whites, but seeing him helped stoke the nostalgic embers. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Every alum has a Chef Hervé story. Mine involves a fingertip cut off in butchery class, and his assurance, in his surprisingly un-gruff school nurse role, that I didn't need to go to the emergency room. He wrapped an extra Band-aid then a finger cot around my forefinger, advised me to be more careful when scraping around chicken bones with a flexible blade, and then told me to get back to class. Amazingly, my fingertip grew back, though there's a bit of a dent in the nail to remind me of my deboning lesson: a fancy knife is only as good as the person who uses it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Next Course\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nTheir new restaurant, \u003cstrong>Carême 350\u003c/strong>, opens on Wednesday, May 28. Enjoy 25% off if you bring one guest, 50% off if you bring two guests, and 75% off if you bring three or more guests. Discount is only valid on Wednesday, May 28, only between the hours of 11:30-am and 1 pm. Discount will be deducted from the total bill.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On Thursday, June 5 they'll be serving a special lunch and dinner menu: 3 1/2 courses for $3.50. Not sure what half a course is, but if anyone can deliver half of what's expected, the CCA certainly can.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Carême 350\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n350 Rhode Island (at 16th Street)\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA\u003cbr>\n(415) 216-4329\u003cbr>\nLunch: 11:30 am – 1:00 pm\u003cbr>\nDinner: 6:00 pm – 8 pm\u003cbr>\nGrand buffet every Friday\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/blogger/_GNnXiTCLb6s/R5_-NndHpLI/AAAAAAAAAJY/c18OHfqNsLA/s1600-h/healthycooking.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/blogger/_GNnXiTCLb6s/R5_-NndHpLI/AAAAAAAAAJY/c18OHfqNsLA/s320/healthycooking.jpg\" border=\"0\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>The Culinary Institute of America recently published the third edition of \u003cb>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0470052325/kqedorg-20\">Techniques of Healthy Cooking\u003c/a>\u003c/b>. It's a massive tome, almost 600 pages long and provides a broad overview of nutritional basics such as current dietary guidelines, recipes planning, and recommendations for minimizing fat, salt, sugar and even alcohol in recipes. There are nearly 150 photographs and over 400 recipes, which yield between ten and twenty servings. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Not only is this a book for professional chefs but the recipes sound more like what you might find in a restaurant than a hospital dining room. Some examples include Grilled Veal with Blackberries and Vanilla, Rabbit and Oyster Etouffee, Duck Breast Crepinette, and Strawberry and Rhubarb Strudel. You can see \u003cb>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/gp/reader/0470052325/ref=sib_dp_pt/104-7256175-8297565#reader-link\">excerpts from the book here\u003c/a>\u003c/b>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was curious how a culinary school might address nutrition, so I got in touch with Certified Executive Chef Eve Felder, Associate Dean for Culinary Arts at The Culinary Institute of America. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Felder has been a chef at Chez Panisse Cafe in Berkeley and has held just about every other role in the kitchen from Pastry Line Cook at the Quilted Giraffe in New York to Executive Chef at V. Mertz Restaurant in Omaha, Nebraska. She has traveled throughout Europe, the Far East, and North Africa studying the historical connection between the culinary traditions and agricultural practices of different cultures. She also won the first ever educator of the year award from Women Chefs and Restauranteurs, just last year. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Are healthy cooking techniques generally part of a CIA education?\u003c/b>\u003cbr>Yes, The Culinary Institute of America approaches healthy food from various perspectives. The first is from the standpoint of ingredients. Are the ingredients sound? Are they seasonal? Have they been treated with care in terms of growing, receiving and preparing them for a meal. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The second is from the perspective of deliciousness. What do we do to ensure that a meal is delicious and healthy? What techniques can we use in cooking to enhance flavor? What ingredients from the global pantry are healthy and at the same time delicious?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Third, what is the responsibility, as a professional in the food service industry, to provide food that is healthy and good for you? This is much more of a philosophical discussion that we address not only in the college's kitchen and bakeshop classes but in our academic classes as well. Students at the CIA will ultimately be the leaders of the food service industry need to think about their social responsibilities.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What prompted the CIA to revise this book now?\u003c/b>\u003cbr>The college's commitment to leading and providing the industry with a text that will elevate the way in which we think about food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>How is this book different from all the other healthy eating books out in the market?\u003c/b>\u003cbr>All of The Culinary Institute of America's texts are written to address the needs of the chef, maitre d' and leaders in the foodservice business. The CIA's audience is not only the professional, but also food afficionados who have a curiosity that goes beyond simple recipes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Chefs don't often have the healthiest diet, in part because of their career. Any tips specifically for chefs trying to live a more healthy lifestyle?\u003c/b>\u003cbr>Come to the CIA! We not only address healthy cuisine in our curriculum but have a 52,000-square-foot recreation center.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Seriously, there are health liabilities to being a chef and it is vitally important that we embrace a balanced life that includes a commitment to exercising, reasonable work hours, and being aware of the long term consequences of eating poorly. Eating healthy is part of the discipline of cooking. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Usually, people have come to cooking because they have a passion for sharing the table and food. Once we've become a chef we have to reach back to what it means to sit down, enjoy a meal and enjoy the company of people.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/blogger/_GNnXiTCLb6s/R5_-NndHpLI/AAAAAAAAAJY/c18OHfqNsLA/s1600-h/healthycooking.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/blogger/_GNnXiTCLb6s/R5_-NndHpLI/AAAAAAAAAJY/c18OHfqNsLA/s320/healthycooking.jpg\" border=\"0\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>The Culinary Institute of America recently published the third edition of \u003cb>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0470052325/kqedorg-20\">Techniques of Healthy Cooking\u003c/a>\u003c/b>. It's a massive tome, almost 600 pages long and provides a broad overview of nutritional basics such as current dietary guidelines, recipes planning, and recommendations for minimizing fat, salt, sugar and even alcohol in recipes. There are nearly 150 photographs and over 400 recipes, which yield between ten and twenty servings. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Not only is this a book for professional chefs but the recipes sound more like what you might find in a restaurant than a hospital dining room. Some examples include Grilled Veal with Blackberries and Vanilla, Rabbit and Oyster Etouffee, Duck Breast Crepinette, and Strawberry and Rhubarb Strudel. You can see \u003cb>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/gp/reader/0470052325/ref=sib_dp_pt/104-7256175-8297565#reader-link\">excerpts from the book here\u003c/a>\u003c/b>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was curious how a culinary school might address nutrition, so I got in touch with Certified Executive Chef Eve Felder, Associate Dean for Culinary Arts at The Culinary Institute of America. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Felder has been a chef at Chez Panisse Cafe in Berkeley and has held just about every other role in the kitchen from Pastry Line Cook at the Quilted Giraffe in New York to Executive Chef at V. Mertz Restaurant in Omaha, Nebraska. She has traveled throughout Europe, the Far East, and North Africa studying the historical connection between the culinary traditions and agricultural practices of different cultures. She also won the first ever educator of the year award from Women Chefs and Restauranteurs, just last year. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Are healthy cooking techniques generally part of a CIA education?\u003c/b>\u003cbr>Yes, The Culinary Institute of America approaches healthy food from various perspectives. The first is from the standpoint of ingredients. Are the ingredients sound? Are they seasonal? Have they been treated with care in terms of growing, receiving and preparing them for a meal. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The second is from the perspective of deliciousness. What do we do to ensure that a meal is delicious and healthy? What techniques can we use in cooking to enhance flavor? What ingredients from the global pantry are healthy and at the same time delicious?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Third, what is the responsibility, as a professional in the food service industry, to provide food that is healthy and good for you? This is much more of a philosophical discussion that we address not only in the college's kitchen and bakeshop classes but in our academic classes as well. Students at the CIA will ultimately be the leaders of the food service industry need to think about their social responsibilities.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What prompted the CIA to revise this book now?\u003c/b>\u003cbr>The college's commitment to leading and providing the industry with a text that will elevate the way in which we think about food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>How is this book different from all the other healthy eating books out in the market?\u003c/b>\u003cbr>All of The Culinary Institute of America's texts are written to address the needs of the chef, maitre d' and leaders in the foodservice business. The CIA's audience is not only the professional, but also food afficionados who have a curiosity that goes beyond simple recipes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Chefs don't often have the healthiest diet, in part because of their career. Any tips specifically for chefs trying to live a more healthy lifestyle?\u003c/b>\u003cbr>Come to the CIA! We not only address healthy cuisine in our curriculum but have a 52,000-square-foot recreation center.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Seriously, there are health liabilities to being a chef and it is vitally important that we embrace a balanced life that includes a commitment to exercising, reasonable work hours, and being aware of the long term consequences of eating poorly. Eating healthy is part of the discipline of cooking. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Usually, people have come to cooking because they have a passion for sharing the table and food. Once we've become a chef we have to reach back to what it means to sit down, enjoy a meal and enjoy the company of people.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Chocolate Adventure Recipe Contest Ideas",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/chocolate.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Last week \u003ca href=\"http://www.tuttifoodie.com/\">Tutti Foodie\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.artisanconfection.com/stores/scharffenberger/\">Scharffen Berger\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.tablehopper.com/about/who.html\">Marcia Gagliardi\u003c/a> of \u003ca href=\"http://www.tablehopper.com/main.html\">Tablehopper\u003c/a> joined forces and unveiled \u003ca href=\"http://chocolateadventurecontest.com/About.aspx\">The Chocolate Adventure Recipe Contest\u003c/a> with a number of events at local restaurants featuring pastry chefs and chocolate. On Monday August 13 I went to Campton Place to see what \u003ca href=\"http://www.starchefs.com/chefs/rising_stars/2005/sf/html/coffee_parfait_b_portnoy.shtml\">Boris Portnoy\u003c/a> {pastry chef of Campton Place, the restaurant) might make and talk about. An innovative and forward thinking chef, Boris's desserts guarantee a challenge to the palate as well as mind.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Much to my delight there was more in store than the same old chocolate thang I, and other pastry chefs, often find ourselves at. The afternoon at Campton Place was spent in a small private room on the second floor with some of California's most dynamic food writers, bloggers, bakers and movers and shakers in the local chocolate scene.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Before we set about eating the arranged chocolate on our plates, John Scharffenberger gave a short but thorough history of cacao and chocolate. If you work for a school, or just love chocolate, give this semi-retired chocolate maker a call! His talk was engaging, funny, compassionate and delicious in every sense of the word. While leading us through the earth's best rain forests for cacao growing, harvesting and fermenting, he directed us to eat the disparate chocolate shapes on our plates, in the order his lesson informed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Much to the surprise of many of our virgin mouths, we tasted a number of chocolate examples \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chocolate_liquor\">which were not chocolate\u003c/a> in the truest sense of the word. We learned that when tasting chocolate in its pure form, tongues met with acidity and tannins most commonly found in wine and bitter edges associated with dark-roasted coffees.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After eating 8-9 versions of cacao and chocolate we listened to Boris talk excitedly about his love for cacao nibs; their texture, flavor and versatility tantalized his sweet imagination. And discovering how to make his own chocolate in a food processor appeared to have changed his life! Yes, he encouraged, go and try this at home. After a short demonstration he motioned with a regal flourish, and quiet waiters appeared with a three component cacao nib-themed plated dessert.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You'd think after three hours of smelling, tasting, eating, talking, inquiring, and listening to chocolate I would have left the hotel without a desire to ponder the chocolate contest... But the truth is that my friend and I discussed what we would do if we could enter the contest. {I cannot, but he can.}\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I thought I would share a bit of our conversation. Think of these word formations the way you would \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/p_o_e_m/index.html\">poetry\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2007/05/plated-desserts-game.jsp\">a game\u003c/a>, an interpretive dance or maybe like you were sitting near us on BART, \u003ca href=\"http://hedonia.seantimberlake.com/hedonia/eatsdropper/index.html\">overhearing\u003c/a> our chocolate-meal fueled crazytalk.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Theme: Bacon & Chocolate\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> Render bacon fat brunoise or dice, caramelize crispy pork fat cubes and make chocolate with this in food processor with cacao nibs.\u003cbr> Pork cracklins (like the snack food found at gas stations) enrobed in bittersweet chocolate.\u003cbr> Bacon lardons half dipped in chocolate.\u003cbr> Fatback chocolate with quince paste.\u003cbr> Pork belly & rosemary infused chocolate pot de creme, quince paste (?) & sea salt garnish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Don't worry, these ideas won't end up on a dessert of mine.....\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2007/08/chocolate-adventure-recipe-contest.jsp\">The Chocolate Adventure Recipe Contest website. \"You. Dark Chocolate. And A Special Ingredient.\"\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://chocolateadventurecontest.com/About.aspx\">The Rules are simple:\u003c/a> pair a list of innovative/ aromatic spices and flavors with any of Scharffen Berger's exquisite dark chocolates. The prizes \u003ca href=\"http://chocolateadventurecontest.com/Prizes.aspx\">include both money and fame\u003c/a>. If you don't want the Bacon & Chocolate dessert to win, enter soon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And, as \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2007/08/chocolate-adventure-recipe-contest.jsp\">Jen Maiser\u003c/a> said aptly, \"What could be better than the opportunity to create an interesting recipe using chocolate?\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Related Links:\u003cbr>\u003ca href=\"http://www.theartoftastingchocolate.com/2007/08/the-chocolate-1.html\">The Art of Tasting Chocolate\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\u003ca href=\"http://jalapeno.typepad.com/my_weblog/2007/08/scharffen-berge.html\">Jalapeno Girl\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\u003ca href=\"http://ladleandwhisk.wordpress.com/2007/08/13/an-afternoon-of-chocolate/\">Ladle and Whisk\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/chocolate.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Last week \u003ca href=\"http://www.tuttifoodie.com/\">Tutti Foodie\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.artisanconfection.com/stores/scharffenberger/\">Scharffen Berger\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.tablehopper.com/about/who.html\">Marcia Gagliardi\u003c/a> of \u003ca href=\"http://www.tablehopper.com/main.html\">Tablehopper\u003c/a> joined forces and unveiled \u003ca href=\"http://chocolateadventurecontest.com/About.aspx\">The Chocolate Adventure Recipe Contest\u003c/a> with a number of events at local restaurants featuring pastry chefs and chocolate. On Monday August 13 I went to Campton Place to see what \u003ca href=\"http://www.starchefs.com/chefs/rising_stars/2005/sf/html/coffee_parfait_b_portnoy.shtml\">Boris Portnoy\u003c/a> {pastry chef of Campton Place, the restaurant) might make and talk about. An innovative and forward thinking chef, Boris's desserts guarantee a challenge to the palate as well as mind.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Much to my delight there was more in store than the same old chocolate thang I, and other pastry chefs, often find ourselves at. The afternoon at Campton Place was spent in a small private room on the second floor with some of California's most dynamic food writers, bloggers, bakers and movers and shakers in the local chocolate scene.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Before we set about eating the arranged chocolate on our plates, John Scharffenberger gave a short but thorough history of cacao and chocolate. If you work for a school, or just love chocolate, give this semi-retired chocolate maker a call! His talk was engaging, funny, compassionate and delicious in every sense of the word. While leading us through the earth's best rain forests for cacao growing, harvesting and fermenting, he directed us to eat the disparate chocolate shapes on our plates, in the order his lesson informed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Much to the surprise of many of our virgin mouths, we tasted a number of chocolate examples \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chocolate_liquor\">which were not chocolate\u003c/a> in the truest sense of the word. We learned that when tasting chocolate in its pure form, tongues met with acidity and tannins most commonly found in wine and bitter edges associated with dark-roasted coffees.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After eating 8-9 versions of cacao and chocolate we listened to Boris talk excitedly about his love for cacao nibs; their texture, flavor and versatility tantalized his sweet imagination. And discovering how to make his own chocolate in a food processor appeared to have changed his life! Yes, he encouraged, go and try this at home. After a short demonstration he motioned with a regal flourish, and quiet waiters appeared with a three component cacao nib-themed plated dessert.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You'd think after three hours of smelling, tasting, eating, talking, inquiring, and listening to chocolate I would have left the hotel without a desire to ponder the chocolate contest... But the truth is that my friend and I discussed what we would do if we could enter the contest. {I cannot, but he can.}\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I thought I would share a bit of our conversation. Think of these word formations the way you would \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/p_o_e_m/index.html\">poetry\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2007/05/plated-desserts-game.jsp\">a game\u003c/a>, an interpretive dance or maybe like you were sitting near us on BART, \u003ca href=\"http://hedonia.seantimberlake.com/hedonia/eatsdropper/index.html\">overhearing\u003c/a> our chocolate-meal fueled crazytalk.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Theme: Bacon & Chocolate\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> Render bacon fat brunoise or dice, caramelize crispy pork fat cubes and make chocolate with this in food processor with cacao nibs.\u003cbr> Pork cracklins (like the snack food found at gas stations) enrobed in bittersweet chocolate.\u003cbr> Bacon lardons half dipped in chocolate.\u003cbr> Fatback chocolate with quince paste.\u003cbr> Pork belly & rosemary infused chocolate pot de creme, quince paste (?) & sea salt garnish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Don't worry, these ideas won't end up on a dessert of mine.....\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2007/08/chocolate-adventure-recipe-contest.jsp\">The Chocolate Adventure Recipe Contest website. \"You. Dark Chocolate. And A Special Ingredient.\"\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://chocolateadventurecontest.com/About.aspx\">The Rules are simple:\u003c/a> pair a list of innovative/ aromatic spices and flavors with any of Scharffen Berger's exquisite dark chocolates. The prizes \u003ca href=\"http://chocolateadventurecontest.com/Prizes.aspx\">include both money and fame\u003c/a>. If you don't want the Bacon & Chocolate dessert to win, enter soon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And, as \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2007/08/chocolate-adventure-recipe-contest.jsp\">Jen Maiser\u003c/a> said aptly, \"What could be better than the opportunity to create an interesting recipe using chocolate?\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Related Links:\u003cbr>\u003ca href=\"http://www.theartoftastingchocolate.com/2007/08/the-chocolate-1.html\">The Art of Tasting Chocolate\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\u003ca href=\"http://jalapeno.typepad.com/my_weblog/2007/08/scharffen-berge.html\">Jalapeno Girl\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\u003ca href=\"http://ladleandwhisk.wordpress.com/2007/08/13/an-afternoon-of-chocolate/\">Ladle and Whisk\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>It's that time of year. When Bay Area markets are jumping with stone fruits. Names whimsical, actual and unpronounceable and downright silly fill signage over mysterious glowing orbs. People want to know, \"What's the difference between a pluot and a plumcot, a nectarcot and an aprium? Why all the funny names? What happened to the straight up plum, apricot, nectarine and peach?\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The full answer is too wordy for this medium. But, truth be told, there are almost no fruits we eat out hand today which are their true selves in their original form. \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Prunus\">All stone fruits are hybrids\u003c/a> of the bitter almond tree, and all have been developed by horticulturalists for hundreds of years to withstand certain weather conditions, soils and various interfering pests. And in the last one hundred years or so, farmers have been juggling/gambling with different trees in an attempt to provide Americans with what appears to be one fruit during the course of a season. The peach you eat in May is not the peach you eat in June or July. But the hope is that on each of these hot summer days, you can find, buy and eat a peach.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's almost impossible to keep up with all the stone fruit hybrids once summer begins. They rush at us like stars in a meteor shower. Some varietals last a month, but many come and go within a week or even days! My favorite farm for stone fruit is \u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org/markets/farmers/farm_8.php\">Blossom Bluff\u003c/a>. Ted and Fran Loewen grow dozens of varietals, oftentimes experimenting or sticking with more difficult trees and fruit to provide their customers with a delicious spectrum of complex, aromatic, texturally sensuous fruits.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's been as big a surprise to me, as anyone else, that peaches and various plum-apricot hybrids are arriving at the farmers' market as early as this. It's May; still spring by the calendar! But here they all are, available for the picking, and in wide sweeping arrays and displays at \u003ca href=\"http://www.berkeleybowl.com/pages/produce.html\">Berkeley Bowl\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.montereymarket.com/index.htm\">Monterey Market\u003c/a> and local farmers' markets.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Unless a farmer has stayed loyal to calling these hybrids their proper names, what you buy here will be named something different there. As of yet there's little regulation to insure names stay consistent. Train your nose and mouth to recognize new varietals. Pick fruit that has a strong scent when you go in for the smell. All stone fruit can ripen off the tree. Unless your house is very hot or humid, ripen fruit further by setting fruit on its shoulders, stem side down, until, when pressed, flesh has a bit of give. If the fruit you buy is very ripe, be sure to refrigerate it immediately.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Early fruits will be smaller and higher in acid than their later cousins. Fruit whose color bleeds right down into the stem end will ripen sweeter than those whose color is yellow or green by the stem. Look for fruit with saturated color. The sun's blush is what determines sugar in stone fruit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But remember, some of these varietals will be gone before you can decide if you'll like them! Buy a few of each as the season progresses and jot down the name on the placard as well as the name of the farm stand. These notes will help you get a head-start on next years stone fruit onslaught.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you have an interest in the history of these quirky hybrids, \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zaiger%27s_Genetics\">Mr. Floyd Zaiger\u003c/a> is the first person to learn about. He has contributed more to stone fruit hybridization than any other person to date.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Short Pieces on Floyd Zaiger:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.yourproduceman.com/news_aug_1_05.html\">Your Produce Man\u003c/a>\u003cbr>News from \u003ca href=\"http://www.davewilson.com/z_file/TOC_zaiger.html\">The Dave Wilson Nursery\u003c/a> (where many California farmers buy these various hybrids.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And if you are a nerdy (budding) fruit historian (pun intended) like me, you'll enjoy words written by and about the infamous David Karp, Fruit Detective extraordinaire:\u003cbr>\u003ca href=\"http://www.californiaheartland.org/archive/hl_735/fruitdetect.htm\">\u003cbr> California Heartland . Org\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\u003ca href=\"http://www.booknoise.net/johnseabrook/stories/culture/detective/index.html\">John Seabrook from The New Yorker\u003c/a> spends a few days with our man.\u003cbr>\u003ca href=\"http://www.smithsonianmagazine.com/issues/2006/july/karp.php\">Smithsonian Magazine interview\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>It's that time of year. When Bay Area markets are jumping with stone fruits. Names whimsical, actual and unpronounceable and downright silly fill signage over mysterious glowing orbs. People want to know, \"What's the difference between a pluot and a plumcot, a nectarcot and an aprium? Why all the funny names? What happened to the straight up plum, apricot, nectarine and peach?\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The full answer is too wordy for this medium. But, truth be told, there are almost no fruits we eat out hand today which are their true selves in their original form. \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Prunus\">All stone fruits are hybrids\u003c/a> of the bitter almond tree, and all have been developed by horticulturalists for hundreds of years to withstand certain weather conditions, soils and various interfering pests. And in the last one hundred years or so, farmers have been juggling/gambling with different trees in an attempt to provide Americans with what appears to be one fruit during the course of a season. The peach you eat in May is not the peach you eat in June or July. But the hope is that on each of these hot summer days, you can find, buy and eat a peach.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's almost impossible to keep up with all the stone fruit hybrids once summer begins. They rush at us like stars in a meteor shower. Some varietals last a month, but many come and go within a week or even days! My favorite farm for stone fruit is \u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org/markets/farmers/farm_8.php\">Blossom Bluff\u003c/a>. Ted and Fran Loewen grow dozens of varietals, oftentimes experimenting or sticking with more difficult trees and fruit to provide their customers with a delicious spectrum of complex, aromatic, texturally sensuous fruits.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's been as big a surprise to me, as anyone else, that peaches and various plum-apricot hybrids are arriving at the farmers' market as early as this. It's May; still spring by the calendar! But here they all are, available for the picking, and in wide sweeping arrays and displays at \u003ca href=\"http://www.berkeleybowl.com/pages/produce.html\">Berkeley Bowl\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.montereymarket.com/index.htm\">Monterey Market\u003c/a> and local farmers' markets.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Unless a farmer has stayed loyal to calling these hybrids their proper names, what you buy here will be named something different there. As of yet there's little regulation to insure names stay consistent. Train your nose and mouth to recognize new varietals. Pick fruit that has a strong scent when you go in for the smell. All stone fruit can ripen off the tree. Unless your house is very hot or humid, ripen fruit further by setting fruit on its shoulders, stem side down, until, when pressed, flesh has a bit of give. If the fruit you buy is very ripe, be sure to refrigerate it immediately.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Early fruits will be smaller and higher in acid than their later cousins. Fruit whose color bleeds right down into the stem end will ripen sweeter than those whose color is yellow or green by the stem. Look for fruit with saturated color. The sun's blush is what determines sugar in stone fruit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But remember, some of these varietals will be gone before you can decide if you'll like them! Buy a few of each as the season progresses and jot down the name on the placard as well as the name of the farm stand. These notes will help you get a head-start on next years stone fruit onslaught.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you have an interest in the history of these quirky hybrids, \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zaiger%27s_Genetics\">Mr. Floyd Zaiger\u003c/a> is the first person to learn about. He has contributed more to stone fruit hybridization than any other person to date.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Short Pieces on Floyd Zaiger:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.yourproduceman.com/news_aug_1_05.html\">Your Produce Man\u003c/a>\u003cbr>News from \u003ca href=\"http://www.davewilson.com/z_file/TOC_zaiger.html\">The Dave Wilson Nursery\u003c/a> (where many California farmers buy these various hybrids.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And if you are a nerdy (budding) fruit historian (pun intended) like me, you'll enjoy words written by and about the infamous David Karp, Fruit Detective extraordinaire:\u003cbr>\u003ca href=\"http://www.californiaheartland.org/archive/hl_735/fruitdetect.htm\">\u003cbr> California Heartland . Org\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\u003ca href=\"http://www.booknoise.net/johnseabrook/stories/culture/detective/index.html\">John Seabrook from The New Yorker\u003c/a> spends a few days with our man.\u003cbr>\u003ca href=\"http://www.smithsonianmagazine.com/issues/2006/july/karp.php\">Smithsonian Magazine interview\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0959.JPG\">\u003cbr>I lined up plates in the order they appeared on the menu. This trick helps cooks plate food with speed and efficiency during a busy service.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Last week many of you participated in having a bit of fun with your food. You played \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2007/05/plated-desserts-game.jsp\">The Plated Dessert Menu Game!\u003c/a> Although it began as a lark, I must admit I might make this a regular thing if I get another pastry chef job in a restaurant. Many of you created a menu the likes of which I would not have thought of myself! Thank you! (I hope, of course, that it means you are adventurous eaters as well, supporting dedicated pastry chefs wherever you eat...)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Every day since \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2007/05/plated_dessert__2.html\">the dessert tasting\u003c/a>/job interview, my phone voicemail and email inbox has been full of one question, \"So, how did it go?\" But I don't know what to say. They sat, I plated, we ate, we talked, I left. There were 6 of them and one of me. The chef I've been discussing this position with for the last 4 months asked me to speak about what was on the table, another chef asked a lot of questions, a few comments were made and now it's all about the waiting game.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0956.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I did get to be really nerdy when it came to talking about \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2006/12/butterscotch_pu.html\">the history of butterscotch\u003c/a>, and why a graham cracker is called that, and why one need \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2007/05/rhubarb-verbena-sabayon-pastry-chef.jsp\">understand osmotic reciprocity when attempting to cook rhubarb\u003c/a>. That was extremely fun and satisfying!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0965.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And it was amazing to see desserts that had been living in my head, as ideas or a dizzying array of free-floating components, come together on a plate, be set forth in front of humans, and eaten as if they were finished sentences, cohesive concrete visions. Like digital photography, plated dessert making can produce immediate results, an on-the-spot culmination of the conceptual and the actual.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course one hopes that one's desserts will also be delicious.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Without further ado, I give you The Menu presented as my dessert tasting on Monday May 14, 2007, 12 noon, at an undisclosed downtown San Francisco restaurant for the purpose of trying out for a pastry chef job:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Butterscotch Pot de creme with Pecan Shortbread\u003cbr>-- Extra component: chantilly.\u003cbr>Cherries & Cream, a Napoleon with Poetic License\u003cbr>-- Double vanilla shortbread, carnaroli rice pudding infused with California Bay Laurel, cherries reduced in cherry vinegar and pitted cherries au natural.\u003cbr>Ricotta Cheesecake with Crunchy Poached Rhubarb\u003cbr>-- Served with rhubarb-rose geranium sauce.\u003cbr>Warm Milk Chocolate with Various Chocolate Textures and Malted Ice Cream\u003cbr>-- El Rey milk chocolate veloute baked atop Devil's Food Cake lifted by cocoa meringue, warmed by hot fudge sauce and garnished with malt ice cream sitting on candied cacao nibs.\u003cbr>Hot Doughnuts with Blushing Sugar and An Egg Cream Chaser\u003cbr>-- \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2007/03/doughnuts_donut.html\">Pate a choux doughnuts\u003c/a> rolled in sugar made with mesquite flour, fleur de sel and ground cacao nibs served with vanilla bean egg cream.\u003cbr>Bright Lemon Baked Alaska, Brown Butter and Shuna's Famous Graham Crackers\u003cbr>-- Shuna's famous graham crackers sitting against lemon sherbet and brown butter ice cream hiding under torched Swiss meringue.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0963.JPG\">\u003cbr>The cherry Napoleon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0964.JPG\">\u003cbr>Warm Milk Chocolate with Various Chocolate Textures and Malted Ice Cream.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I've written about a number of plated dessert tastings I've done in the past few years. Interested in knowing more? \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/plated_desserts/index.html\">Click here\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Thank you, all of you, for playing last week's game, reading, imagining, and coming along for the ride!\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0959.JPG\">\u003cbr>I lined up plates in the order they appeared on the menu. This trick helps cooks plate food with speed and efficiency during a busy service.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Last week many of you participated in having a bit of fun with your food. You played \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2007/05/plated-desserts-game.jsp\">The Plated Dessert Menu Game!\u003c/a> Although it began as a lark, I must admit I might make this a regular thing if I get another pastry chef job in a restaurant. Many of you created a menu the likes of which I would not have thought of myself! Thank you! (I hope, of course, that it means you are adventurous eaters as well, supporting dedicated pastry chefs wherever you eat...)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Every day since \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2007/05/plated_dessert__2.html\">the dessert tasting\u003c/a>/job interview, my phone voicemail and email inbox has been full of one question, \"So, how did it go?\" But I don't know what to say. They sat, I plated, we ate, we talked, I left. There were 6 of them and one of me. The chef I've been discussing this position with for the last 4 months asked me to speak about what was on the table, another chef asked a lot of questions, a few comments were made and now it's all about the waiting game.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0956.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I did get to be really nerdy when it came to talking about \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2006/12/butterscotch_pu.html\">the history of butterscotch\u003c/a>, and why a graham cracker is called that, and why one need \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2007/05/rhubarb-verbena-sabayon-pastry-chef.jsp\">understand osmotic reciprocity when attempting to cook rhubarb\u003c/a>. That was extremely fun and satisfying!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "Rhubarb-Verbena Sabayon, The Pastry Chef Conference",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0716.JPG\">\u003cbr>\nShuna Lydon & Sherry Yard, both on team #1.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A number of months ago I received an email from an old pastry chef of mine, \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2006/01/shunas-famous-gingerbread.jsp\">Stephen Durfee\u003c/a>, who is now an instructor at \u003ca href=\"http://www.ciachef.edu/california/default.asp\">The Culinary Institute of America, Greystone campus in Napa Valley\u003c/a>. He was letting me know I would soon receive an invitation to \u003ca href=\"http://www.ciaprochef.com/bandp_2006/index.html\">The Fifth Annual Worlds of Flavor Baking & Pastry Arts Invitational Retreat\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But I thought I would have to respectfully decline, because I am not currently working for a specific establishment. The only name on my chef's jacket is my own. I could not be more grateful that Stephen talked me out of my no.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For 3 1/2 days at the end of April I breathed, thought, emoted, questioned, hypothesized, puzzled over, laughed about, informed, taught, learned, listened, typed, photographed, argued and dreamt pastry and dessert making. {I also \"live-blogged\" it. Find the blow-by-blow \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/pastry_chef_conference_2007/index.html\">by clicking on this link\u003c/a>.}\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0704.JPG\">\u003cbr>\nNotes from the Ideation Session before we went into the kitchen to start creating.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0709.JPG\">\u003cbr>\nThe dessert ideas and chef teams that were formed our team's Ideation Session.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>From 8:30 am until near 8 pm every day our 70 plus pastry chef and industry representatives' gaggle went from demonstration, to lecture, to lunch, and then at night many of us went out to dine and commiserate. On the last day and a half we were broken up into 5 teams on the basis of various themes and asked to create 4 desserts each.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Team #1, my own, was themed \"Health and Agriculture.\" In the one hour Ideation Session \u003ca href=\"http://www.pastryscoop.com/about_advisory_yard.html\">Sherry Yard\u003c/a> and I threw out a lot of excited ideas, were reigned in, we all picked partners and then walked into the palatial kitchens that make up CIA's kitchen classroom. For the 'fruit dessert' my cohort/teammate was Master Bread Baker \u003ca href=\"http://www.donrockwell.com/index.php?showtopic=346\">Mark Furstenberg\u003c/a> from Washington DC.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The idea was we would showcase one ingredient, rhubarb. Although rhubarb is not a fruit, it's what's most in season right this minute, and I wanted to show off a special method I have of cooking/treating it, so as to preserve its original integrity, its rhubarb-ness. I like to hot-sugar poach the stalk in such a way as to keep it's crunchy, sour nature. {For a full explanation and recipe, order the \u003ca href=\"http://www.ediblesanfrancisco.net/ESF/backissues.html\">Spring 2006 issue of Edible San Francisco\u003c/a>, where I went into great detail about osmotic reciprocity and why rhubarb always turns into mushy, stringy baby food when it's introduced to heat.}\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0732.JPG\">\u003cbr>\nVerbena from the Julia Child Gardens at CIA, infused cream and rhubarb juice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mark made a slightly savory biscotti of cornmeal and toasted almonds, and besides the rhubarb I wanted something to mediate the textures and flavors of the rhubarb and cornmeal cookie. \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/plated_desserts/index.html\">Plated dessert\u003c/a> making is about balance. Pastry chefs are always thinking about texture, flavor, presentation, sweetness, acid, production, size, plating speed, accessibility, temperature, and the food you ate before eating our courses. The best desserts are the ones not made on autopilot. Don't get me wrong, I like my lemon bars, chocolate eclairs and creme brulee, but I want the pastry chef to be paying attention to all the ingredients to produce the best possible taste sensation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Because of rhubarb's high acid content, it likes to be married with fat. I ate at Gary Danko recently and was not surprised to see rhubarb paired with foie gras. Rhubarb likes butter, cream, creme fraiche, and eggs. But the actual flavor of rhubarb is fairly subtle. If I want a diner to really taste it, I try and make pairings that are of complementary, not competitive flavors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To this end, I made a light and aromatic, herbaceous sabayon. Instead of wine or alcohol, though, I juiced rhubarb raw through an extractor. If you have time for all these steps I can guarantee you an elegant and voluptuous, seasonal dessert.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org/markets/farmers/farm_41.php\">David Winsberg of Happy Quail Farm\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org/markets/farmers/farm_41.php\">s\u003c/a> said that he'll have rhubarb through 'til August, but Sabayon is a perfect foil for most fresh fruits, especially berries and stone fruit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0493.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0495.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>RHUBARB-VERBENA SABAYON\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Large Egg Yolks 4-6 each\u003cbr>\nSugar 1/4 cup\u003cbr>\nHoney 3 Tablespoons + (2 Tablespoons: later)\u003cbr>\nSea or Kosher Salt Pinch\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rhubarb Juice 3/4 Cup\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>*Verbena, fresh The leaves from 3 stalks\u003cbr>\nHeavy Cream, not ultra pasteurized 2 Cups (I use Clover Organic.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>*\u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org/markets/farmers/farm_54.php\">Knoll Farms\u003c/a> has some of the best Verbena available in the Bay Area.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Infuse cream and lightly crushed Verbena leaves and stems in a non-reactive pot by heating with low flame until hot. Shut off heat and let steep for at least one hour, preferably more. Do not allow mixture to boil. You can sprinkle in a little sugar to help with infusion.\u003cbr>\n2. After cream has steeped, turn flame to medium until hot to the touch and strain through a fine meshed sieve. Chill cream in ice batch until very cold. (This step may be done 1-2 days before making Sabayon.)\u003cbr>\n3. Combine first four ingredients in the bowl of a stand mixer. Whisk yolks to break apart before adding sugar and salt.\u003cbr>\n4. Set bowl over a pot of boiling water. Bottom of bowl should not touch water. The steam is what's cooking the Sabayon.\u003cbr>\n5. Whisk thoroughly and rapidly, without pause, and, using your other hand, pour rhubarb juice into yolks a little at a time, letting custard thicken a little before adding more. When all liquid has been added, whisk until mixture holds a visible \"trail\" and has become quite thick.\u003cbr>\n6. Place bowl on stand mixer fitted with a whisk attachment and set speed to medium. Add extra 2 Tablespoons of honey now. If it looks like honey spun to attach itself to the side of the bowl, stop mixer and scrape down Sabayon with a spatula to combine.\u003cbr>\n7. Increasing speed incrementally, whisk until custard is light and voluminous.\u003cbr>\n8. Whisk Verbena infused cream until soft peaks form.\u003cbr>\n9. When Sabayon is ready, transfer into a larger bowl.\u003cbr>\n10. Using the most pliable spatula in your kitchen, fold whipped cream into Sabayon in three distinctive additions. Fold intentionally, from the inside of the bowl to the outermost edge. Each stroke counts. If you over mix these two ingredients your Sabayon will deflate to the point of liquidization.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0742.JPG\">\u003cbr>\nRhubarb-Verbena Sabayon with Crunchy Poached Rhubarb, Corn-Almond Biscotti and Marshall Farms Star Thistle Honey. Pastry Chef Authors: Shuna Lydon & Mark Furstenberg.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sabayon keeps, refrigerated, for 1 day, but it is best the day it is made.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0716.JPG\">\u003cbr>\nShuna Lydon & Sherry Yard, both on team #1.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A number of months ago I received an email from an old pastry chef of mine, \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2006/01/shunas-famous-gingerbread.jsp\">Stephen Durfee\u003c/a>, who is now an instructor at \u003ca href=\"http://www.ciachef.edu/california/default.asp\">The Culinary Institute of America, Greystone campus in Napa Valley\u003c/a>. He was letting me know I would soon receive an invitation to \u003ca href=\"http://www.ciaprochef.com/bandp_2006/index.html\">The Fifth Annual Worlds of Flavor Baking & Pastry Arts Invitational Retreat\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But I thought I would have to respectfully decline, because I am not currently working for a specific establishment. The only name on my chef's jacket is my own. I could not be more grateful that Stephen talked me out of my no.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For 3 1/2 days at the end of April I breathed, thought, emoted, questioned, hypothesized, puzzled over, laughed about, informed, taught, learned, listened, typed, photographed, argued and dreamt pastry and dessert making. {I also \"live-blogged\" it. Find the blow-by-blow \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/pastry_chef_conference_2007/index.html\">by clicking on this link\u003c/a>.}\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0704.JPG\">\u003cbr>\nNotes from the Ideation Session before we went into the kitchen to start creating.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0709.JPG\">\u003cbr>\nThe dessert ideas and chef teams that were formed our team's Ideation Session.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>From 8:30 am until near 8 pm every day our 70 plus pastry chef and industry representatives' gaggle went from demonstration, to lecture, to lunch, and then at night many of us went out to dine and commiserate. On the last day and a half we were broken up into 5 teams on the basis of various themes and asked to create 4 desserts each.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Team #1, my own, was themed \"Health and Agriculture.\" In the one hour Ideation Session \u003ca href=\"http://www.pastryscoop.com/about_advisory_yard.html\">Sherry Yard\u003c/a> and I threw out a lot of excited ideas, were reigned in, we all picked partners and then walked into the palatial kitchens that make up CIA's kitchen classroom. For the 'fruit dessert' my cohort/teammate was Master Bread Baker \u003ca href=\"http://www.donrockwell.com/index.php?showtopic=346\">Mark Furstenberg\u003c/a> from Washington DC.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The idea was we would showcase one ingredient, rhubarb. Although rhubarb is not a fruit, it's what's most in season right this minute, and I wanted to show off a special method I have of cooking/treating it, so as to preserve its original integrity, its rhubarb-ness. I like to hot-sugar poach the stalk in such a way as to keep it's crunchy, sour nature. {For a full explanation and recipe, order the \u003ca href=\"http://www.ediblesanfrancisco.net/ESF/backissues.html\">Spring 2006 issue of Edible San Francisco\u003c/a>, where I went into great detail about osmotic reciprocity and why rhubarb always turns into mushy, stringy baby food when it's introduced to heat.}\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0732.JPG\">\u003cbr>\nVerbena from the Julia Child Gardens at CIA, infused cream and rhubarb juice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mark made a slightly savory biscotti of cornmeal and toasted almonds, and besides the rhubarb I wanted something to mediate the textures and flavors of the rhubarb and cornmeal cookie. \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/plated_desserts/index.html\">Plated dessert\u003c/a> making is about balance. Pastry chefs are always thinking about texture, flavor, presentation, sweetness, acid, production, size, plating speed, accessibility, temperature, and the food you ate before eating our courses. The best desserts are the ones not made on autopilot. Don't get me wrong, I like my lemon bars, chocolate eclairs and creme brulee, but I want the pastry chef to be paying attention to all the ingredients to produce the best possible taste sensation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Because of rhubarb's high acid content, it likes to be married with fat. I ate at Gary Danko recently and was not surprised to see rhubarb paired with foie gras. Rhubarb likes butter, cream, creme fraiche, and eggs. But the actual flavor of rhubarb is fairly subtle. If I want a diner to really taste it, I try and make pairings that are of complementary, not competitive flavors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To this end, I made a light and aromatic, herbaceous sabayon. Instead of wine or alcohol, though, I juiced rhubarb raw through an extractor. If you have time for all these steps I can guarantee you an elegant and voluptuous, seasonal dessert.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org/markets/farmers/farm_41.php\">David Winsberg of Happy Quail Farm\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org/markets/farmers/farm_41.php\">s\u003c/a> said that he'll have rhubarb through 'til August, but Sabayon is a perfect foil for most fresh fruits, especially berries and stone fruit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0493.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0495.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>RHUBARB-VERBENA SABAYON\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Large Egg Yolks 4-6 each\u003cbr>\nSugar 1/4 cup\u003cbr>\nHoney 3 Tablespoons + (2 Tablespoons: later)\u003cbr>\nSea or Kosher Salt Pinch\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rhubarb Juice 3/4 Cup\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>*Verbena, fresh The leaves from 3 stalks\u003cbr>\nHeavy Cream, not ultra pasteurized 2 Cups (I use Clover Organic.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>*\u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org/markets/farmers/farm_54.php\">Knoll Farms\u003c/a> has some of the best Verbena available in the Bay Area.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Infuse cream and lightly crushed Verbena leaves and stems in a non-reactive pot by heating with low flame until hot. Shut off heat and let steep for at least one hour, preferably more. Do not allow mixture to boil. You can sprinkle in a little sugar to help with infusion.\u003cbr>\n2. After cream has steeped, turn flame to medium until hot to the touch and strain through a fine meshed sieve. Chill cream in ice batch until very cold. (This step may be done 1-2 days before making Sabayon.)\u003cbr>\n3. Combine first four ingredients in the bowl of a stand mixer. Whisk yolks to break apart before adding sugar and salt.\u003cbr>\n4. Set bowl over a pot of boiling water. Bottom of bowl should not touch water. The steam is what's cooking the Sabayon.\u003cbr>\n5. Whisk thoroughly and rapidly, without pause, and, using your other hand, pour rhubarb juice into yolks a little at a time, letting custard thicken a little before adding more. When all liquid has been added, whisk until mixture holds a visible \"trail\" and has become quite thick.\u003cbr>\n6. Place bowl on stand mixer fitted with a whisk attachment and set speed to medium. Add extra 2 Tablespoons of honey now. If it looks like honey spun to attach itself to the side of the bowl, stop mixer and scrape down Sabayon with a spatula to combine.\u003cbr>\n7. Increasing speed incrementally, whisk until custard is light and voluminous.\u003cbr>\n8. Whisk Verbena infused cream until soft peaks form.\u003cbr>\n9. When Sabayon is ready, transfer into a larger bowl.\u003cbr>\n10. Using the most pliable spatula in your kitchen, fold whipped cream into Sabayon in three distinctive additions. Fold intentionally, from the inside of the bowl to the outermost edge. Each stroke counts. If you over mix these two ingredients your Sabayon will deflate to the point of liquidization.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0742.JPG\">\u003cbr>\nRhubarb-Verbena Sabayon with Crunchy Poached Rhubarb, Corn-Almond Biscotti and Marshall Farms Star Thistle Honey. Pastry Chef Authors: Shuna Lydon & Mark Furstenberg.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sabayon keeps, refrigerated, for 1 day, but it is best the day it is made.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Sourdough Tutorial. Local Bloggers Share Recipes, Information & Toast. Part 2",
"title": "Sourdough Tutorial. Local Bloggers Share Recipes, Information & Toast. Part 2",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0224.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Continued from \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2007/04/sourdough-tutorial-local-bloggers-share.jsp\">Part One on Monday April 16\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In California we have more than our fair share of live yeast in the air. \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sourdough\">Catching it and turning it into \"sourdough starter\" or \"natural starter\" is pretty easy\u003c/a>. All one needs to do is to feed one's starter with cold water and bread flour every week or so. The concept of the 100 years old starter, though, is negligible. But I'm not here to rain on your sourdough starter parade. Although I will mention that sourdough is just that. It was not, originally, a nice thing to say about one's bread. It meant bad. It meant that your bread had gone off.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like trifle, sourdough was originally a mistake. Or an exaggeration of a mistake. I have heard more than one Master Bread Baker disparage sourdough bread.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Also, for the sake of clarity, sourdough bread and sourdough starter are not the same. It is possible to make bread from live yeast cultures, whether they are from wheat or grapes or some other source, and not have it \"taste sour.\" Although the nomenclature is the same, there's an argument here for saying starter when one means just that, and sourdough starter when one means the starter to make sourdough bread.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, who's on first?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0213.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All this being said, I had quite a lot of fun and education whilst hanging out with the humble Dylan of \u003ca href=\"http://sourdoughmonkeywrangler.blogspot.com/\">Sourdough Monkey Wrangler\u003c/a>. A student of the live yeast culture, this man has come far in his self-education of all things involving bread flour. And he's neat and clean to boot.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Is there someone in your community you want to learn from? Maybe pick up a new skill? What stops you from calling them? Do you feel like they need to be paid for their time? Do you have anything to barter?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In my profession we have open doors for barter. I can give my time to just about any chef in whose kitchen I want to learn. We call this a \"trail\" or a \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2006/06/stagiere_manres.html\">stagiere\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In March, Dylan came to \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2007/02/baking_classes__1.html\">one of my classes\u003c/a>, and afterwards brought me some sourdough inspired gifts. Very lucky for me there was a generous bag of homemade English muffins. I could not have been happier!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I love English muffins.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0234.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dylan's English muffin recipe is based on one he found at \u003ca href=\"http://bakingbites.com/2005/12/cooking-school-sourdough-english-muffins/#more-286\">Nicole's Baking Bites\u003c/a>. He adapts his to include favorite locally grown and milled whole wheat flour from \u003ca href=\"http://www.fullbellyfarm.com/about.html\">Full Belly Farm\u003c/a>, as well as milk instead of water.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Milk is a traditional addition to English muffins, as well as Crumpets, which are basically English muffins, but griddled on only one side. In bread, milk becomes a softener. It feeds the yeast an alternative, tastier sugar, and the butterfat relaxes the crumb for a more pliable mouth feel.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0279.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When one bakes bread, a baked good of few ingredients, one must really know what each ingredient does, can do and is doing. Yeast, obviously, helps things rise. But the more you use, the faster bread goes stale. (The same goes for baking powder.) Flour and water combine to bind bread. But inherent in most flours is gluten. Gluten is protein, in its simplest terms, and, once \"activated,\" is the structure builder, the 2X4's of bread doughs. Without gluten, there is no barn to raise. This, \u003ca href=\"http://www.grindstonebakery.com/allproducts.htm\">as we well know in Northern California\u003c/a>, does not mean bread cannot be made without gluten. Tall, light bread, though, cannot be made without gluten.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sugar, even the sugar that exists in the starch of the flour, feeds the yeast. Yeast is an animal, albeit a small single-celled one. (Ask the vegans if yeast is an animal they won't eat, and you will get a myriad of answers.) It eats sugar and emits gas (carbon dioxide), creating the bubbles that will, hours later, become the holes, or the nooks & crannies, in your bread. When flour has enough protein in it, the bubbles will keep their shape as they encircle the gas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In bread, everything after yeast, flour, and water is dessert. Fat, in any form, is a softener. I'm not talking Wonder Bread here; I'm talking a palatable mouth feel. Think matzoh compared to challah, or French bread compared to brioche. Most people would rather make bread pudding or French toast with brioche, rather than ciabatta.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Flavorings are just that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0284.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When working with natural starters one can develop far more flavor in bread. This is a funny sentence if you've not made bread. The concept is that the longer it takes to \"proof\" bread, or make it rise, the better the overall end result will be. Yeast does not like to be rushed. In turn, if you give it all the atmospheric elements it loves: humidity, mild warmth, time, it gives you rewards tenfold.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bread tastes best when all you taste is bread. It's why Tartine's bread has such a following, even though it has more restrictions than a reservation at The French Laundry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I have never been the type of person to have and keep a natural starter around. Dylan has a worm farm in his kitchen for easy apartment composting. I guerilla compost. Dylan rides his bike, I drive. Dylan feeds his starters on a schedule, I water my plants to keep them looking pretty on my window ledge.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But in the past weeks I've done some natural starter experiments. The recipes he gave me are a 3-day process. Day one you feed the starter and keep it out on the counter. Use a larger bowl than you need and make sure it's not metal. Day two combine starter with milk and flours. Day three add rest of flour, baking soda, salt and sugar, proof and begin muffin production.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0290.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>English muffin production looks like this:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Knead dough a bit. The longer you knead it, the more likely it will hold it's round shape later and rise evenly. Roll dough out, cut, lay on heavily floured (or cornmeal covered) sheet, proof in a warm-ish, moist place (Dylan puts a measuring cup of very hot water in the oven for a more controlled atmosphere), and griddle until done. \"Fork\" to open, toast and eat with the best butter you can get your hands on. Have you eaten \u003ca href=\"http://cloverstornetta.com/show/xmlsite/xml-standard.xml/xsl-generic_list_1_page.xsl/start_id-bbpcajhlodngclgcnihnangmmehkglbabobpmcal/\">Clover's new Organic butter\u003c/a> line yet? It's the bomb. So to speak.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I wouldn't call this the simplest, most efficient way to get to English muffins, but I will say that all the steps are important and worth it in the end.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dylan and I use \u003ca href=\"http://www.kingarthurflour.com/flour/home.html\">King Arthur bread flour\u003c/a>, the blue paper bag. King Arthur has been extremely helpful when it comes to answering my questions about the protein contents and wheat origins of their flours. (Northern wheat is considered \"stronger\" with higher protein than Southern grown wheat that is considered \"softer,\" White Lily being the best example.) \u003ca href=\"http://www.worldpantry.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ExecMacro/giustos/home.d2w/report\">Giusto's\u003c/a> is a local company, but I can't seem to get them on the phone to answer questions to save my life. If you long to buy flour in bulk, which is less expensive than paying for the pretty packaging, head over to Rainbow Grocery in SF or Berkeley Bowl in the East Bay.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Most \"sourdough\" people will share a bit of their starter with you if this is the extra hobby you've been waiting for. For all your spare time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0298.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But even if you take the time to make a starter which you keep alive for a few months in order to make two or three batches of these glorious homemade English muffins, I can guarantee you at least one happy mouth, your own, if not a messianic following. Not to mention the immeasurable learning one acquires from understanding the basics in the relationship between flour, yeast, air and water.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There's a chance that Dylan and I will co-teach a class on this very subject. \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/classes/index.html\">Keep up with this link\u003c/a> for announcements.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"description": "Continued from Part One on Monday April 16. In California we have more than our fair share of live yeast in the air. Catching it and turning it into "sourdough starter" or "natural starter" is pretty easy. All one needs to do is to feed one's starter with cold water and bread flour every week",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0224.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Continued from \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2007/04/sourdough-tutorial-local-bloggers-share.jsp\">Part One on Monday April 16\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In California we have more than our fair share of live yeast in the air. \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sourdough\">Catching it and turning it into \"sourdough starter\" or \"natural starter\" is pretty easy\u003c/a>. All one needs to do is to feed one's starter with cold water and bread flour every week or so. The concept of the 100 years old starter, though, is negligible. But I'm not here to rain on your sourdough starter parade. Although I will mention that sourdough is just that. It was not, originally, a nice thing to say about one's bread. It meant bad. It meant that your bread had gone off.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like trifle, sourdough was originally a mistake. Or an exaggeration of a mistake. I have heard more than one Master Bread Baker disparage sourdough bread.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Also, for the sake of clarity, sourdough bread and sourdough starter are not the same. It is possible to make bread from live yeast cultures, whether they are from wheat or grapes or some other source, and not have it \"taste sour.\" Although the nomenclature is the same, there's an argument here for saying starter when one means just that, and sourdough starter when one means the starter to make sourdough bread.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, who's on first?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0213.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All this being said, I had quite a lot of fun and education whilst hanging out with the humble Dylan of \u003ca href=\"http://sourdoughmonkeywrangler.blogspot.com/\">Sourdough Monkey Wrangler\u003c/a>. A student of the live yeast culture, this man has come far in his self-education of all things involving bread flour. And he's neat and clean to boot.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Is there someone in your community you want to learn from? Maybe pick up a new skill? What stops you from calling them? Do you feel like they need to be paid for their time? Do you have anything to barter?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In my profession we have open doors for barter. I can give my time to just about any chef in whose kitchen I want to learn. We call this a \"trail\" or a \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2006/06/stagiere_manres.html\">stagiere\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In March, Dylan came to \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2007/02/baking_classes__1.html\">one of my classes\u003c/a>, and afterwards brought me some sourdough inspired gifts. Very lucky for me there was a generous bag of homemade English muffins. I could not have been happier!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I love English muffins.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0234.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dylan's English muffin recipe is based on one he found at \u003ca href=\"http://bakingbites.com/2005/12/cooking-school-sourdough-english-muffins/#more-286\">Nicole's Baking Bites\u003c/a>. He adapts his to include favorite locally grown and milled whole wheat flour from \u003ca href=\"http://www.fullbellyfarm.com/about.html\">Full Belly Farm\u003c/a>, as well as milk instead of water.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Milk is a traditional addition to English muffins, as well as Crumpets, which are basically English muffins, but griddled on only one side. In bread, milk becomes a softener. It feeds the yeast an alternative, tastier sugar, and the butterfat relaxes the crumb for a more pliable mouth feel.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0279.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When one bakes bread, a baked good of few ingredients, one must really know what each ingredient does, can do and is doing. Yeast, obviously, helps things rise. But the more you use, the faster bread goes stale. (The same goes for baking powder.) Flour and water combine to bind bread. But inherent in most flours is gluten. Gluten is protein, in its simplest terms, and, once \"activated,\" is the structure builder, the 2X4's of bread doughs. Without gluten, there is no barn to raise. This, \u003ca href=\"http://www.grindstonebakery.com/allproducts.htm\">as we well know in Northern California\u003c/a>, does not mean bread cannot be made without gluten. Tall, light bread, though, cannot be made without gluten.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sugar, even the sugar that exists in the starch of the flour, feeds the yeast. Yeast is an animal, albeit a small single-celled one. (Ask the vegans if yeast is an animal they won't eat, and you will get a myriad of answers.) It eats sugar and emits gas (carbon dioxide), creating the bubbles that will, hours later, become the holes, or the nooks & crannies, in your bread. When flour has enough protein in it, the bubbles will keep their shape as they encircle the gas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In bread, everything after yeast, flour, and water is dessert. Fat, in any form, is a softener. I'm not talking Wonder Bread here; I'm talking a palatable mouth feel. Think matzoh compared to challah, or French bread compared to brioche. Most people would rather make bread pudding or French toast with brioche, rather than ciabatta.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Flavorings are just that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0284.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When working with natural starters one can develop far more flavor in bread. This is a funny sentence if you've not made bread. The concept is that the longer it takes to \"proof\" bread, or make it rise, the better the overall end result will be. Yeast does not like to be rushed. In turn, if you give it all the atmospheric elements it loves: humidity, mild warmth, time, it gives you rewards tenfold.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bread tastes best when all you taste is bread. It's why Tartine's bread has such a following, even though it has more restrictions than a reservation at The French Laundry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I have never been the type of person to have and keep a natural starter around. Dylan has a worm farm in his kitchen for easy apartment composting. I guerilla compost. Dylan rides his bike, I drive. Dylan feeds his starters on a schedule, I water my plants to keep them looking pretty on my window ledge.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But in the past weeks I've done some natural starter experiments. The recipes he gave me are a 3-day process. Day one you feed the starter and keep it out on the counter. Use a larger bowl than you need and make sure it's not metal. Day two combine starter with milk and flours. Day three add rest of flour, baking soda, salt and sugar, proof and begin muffin production.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0290.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>English muffin production looks like this:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Knead dough a bit. The longer you knead it, the more likely it will hold it's round shape later and rise evenly. Roll dough out, cut, lay on heavily floured (or cornmeal covered) sheet, proof in a warm-ish, moist place (Dylan puts a measuring cup of very hot water in the oven for a more controlled atmosphere), and griddle until done. \"Fork\" to open, toast and eat with the best butter you can get your hands on. Have you eaten \u003ca href=\"http://cloverstornetta.com/show/xmlsite/xml-standard.xml/xsl-generic_list_1_page.xsl/start_id-bbpcajhlodngclgcnihnangmmehkglbabobpmcal/\">Clover's new Organic butter\u003c/a> line yet? It's the bomb. So to speak.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I wouldn't call this the simplest, most efficient way to get to English muffins, but I will say that all the steps are important and worth it in the end.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dylan and I use \u003ca href=\"http://www.kingarthurflour.com/flour/home.html\">King Arthur bread flour\u003c/a>, the blue paper bag. King Arthur has been extremely helpful when it comes to answering my questions about the protein contents and wheat origins of their flours. (Northern wheat is considered \"stronger\" with higher protein than Southern grown wheat that is considered \"softer,\" White Lily being the best example.) \u003ca href=\"http://www.worldpantry.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ExecMacro/giustos/home.d2w/report\">Giusto's\u003c/a> is a local company, but I can't seem to get them on the phone to answer questions to save my life. If you long to buy flour in bulk, which is less expensive than paying for the pretty packaging, head over to Rainbow Grocery in SF or Berkeley Bowl in the East Bay.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Most \"sourdough\" people will share a bit of their starter with you if this is the extra hobby you've been waiting for. For all your spare time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0298.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But even if you take the time to make a starter which you keep alive for a few months in order to make two or three batches of these glorious homemade English muffins, I can guarantee you at least one happy mouth, your own, if not a messianic following. Not to mention the immeasurable learning one acquires from understanding the basics in the relationship between flour, yeast, air and water.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There's a chance that Dylan and I will co-teach a class on this very subject. \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/classes/index.html\">Keep up with this link\u003c/a> for announcements.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Sourdough Tutorial. Local Bloggers Share Recipes, Information & Toast. Part 1",
"title": "Sourdough Tutorial. Local Bloggers Share Recipes, Information & Toast. Part 1",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>Almost 15 years ago, at the beginning of my career, I worked at \u003ca href=\"http://www.restaurantlulu.com/\">Lulu (SF)\u003c/a>. Unbeknownst to my very naive self at the time, I would never work at another restaurant that would make all its own table bread. At Verbena (NYC), \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2007/03/culinary_school.html\">under the tutelage of Diane Forley\u003c/a>, the pastry department was responsible for a number of breads, especially on the weekends when we would produce gorgeous ficelle, brioche and any number of elegant quick breads for the toast cart.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But no other kitchen would be like Lulu. With two stacks of bread ovens, a full time bread baker (who came in at 10 pm and left near 8 am) and custom designed wooden shelves to display and sell the massive pain de campagne (looking much like \u003ca href=\"http://www.poilane.fr/index.php?index_module=listings&index_theme=english&index_template=en_produit_bdd.php&product_id=1\">Poilane\u003c/a>'s signature loaf) Lulu's bread program was serious.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0224.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So serious, an entire walk-in was devoted to the bread's \u003ca href=\"http://www.io.com/%7Esjohn/sour.htm\">starter\u003c/a>, loaf proofing, and our overstock of dairy. A separate refrigerated room for ingredients lacking in strong scents. Except the time when I backed into whole lambs hanging, waiting for butchering. But that's another story.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Because the restaurant made so much bread, our starter was kept in a plastic rolling garbage can sized container. Massively huge. Lets call it 50 gallons for the sake of a good guess. Whoever arrived first thing in the morning was required to roll it out of the walk-in, pull a few gallons for that nights bake and feed the monster. The last duty meant we had to lean over the lip, reach into the sticky abyss, and stir the gloopy gurgling mixture with a large wooden spoon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>No matter how much we rolled up the sleeves of our chef's jackets, some of the starter would creep into our uniform. But this wasn't the worst of it. Natural starter is stickier than glue. When we were done with our duties, we held out our arms like surgeons and entered the dish room, tackling skin with hot water and the high-pressure sprayer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even after countless showers, little teardrops of dried starter stuck to my arm hairs, eventually rendering me as soft and hairless as a Tour De France cyclist.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0205.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One day I arrived in the kitchen earlier than anyone. I turned on ovens, flipped light switches and then noticed something very weird. The 2nd walk-in door was slightly ajar. Walk-ins come equipped with self-closing doors and, for safety, door handles on the inside as well as the outside. Doors do not stay open, as they are pressure sealed and close with the fwooop! to prove it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was alone in the kitchen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I stood in front of the door. I held my breath. Listened very closely. Nothing but the whir of the fan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then I tried the door. Although it was ajar I had a hard time getting it more open. I tried to peer inside. Nothing. Pulling as hard as I could, the door flew open, throwing me on the ground. Recovering just in time to catch the door before it closed again, I stepped inside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Someone had not sealed the starter's lid. Usually we closed the lid and weighted it with a few half gallons of dairy. To keep the bears out.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0211.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Starter grew out of the 50-gallon bucket. Crept down the sides. Grew across the floor like lava. Scaled the cold box walls. Spread its wings, traversing 90-degree angles, and defied gravity by covering the ceiling. Starter dripped on my head, plop. Starter was everywhere. Alive, happy, wet, sticky, growing. I looked down. Like the first man on the moon I saw my shoes disappearing into foreign goo. Starter naughtily walked out the door.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The starter was having a party.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And I would spend the next many many hours cleaning up after it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lesson number 1:\u003cbr>\nNever leave a starter unattended. Never assume it sleeps a deep dormant sleep in a cold box. Never question the power of wild yeast you've wrangled in, microscopically, from the air. Never forget that day. Never say pshaw to a \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lactobacillus_sanfranciscensis\">Californian sourdough\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Part 2: Monday April 23.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Almost 15 years ago, at the beginning of my career, I worked at \u003ca href=\"http://www.restaurantlulu.com/\">Lulu (SF)\u003c/a>. Unbeknownst to my very naive self at the time, I would never work at another restaurant that would make all its own table bread. At Verbena (NYC), \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2007/03/culinary_school.html\">under the tutelage of Diane Forley\u003c/a>, the pastry department was responsible for a number of breads, especially on the weekends when we would produce gorgeous ficelle, brioche and any number of elegant quick breads for the toast cart.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But no other kitchen would be like Lulu. With two stacks of bread ovens, a full time bread baker (who came in at 10 pm and left near 8 am) and custom designed wooden shelves to display and sell the massive pain de campagne (looking much like \u003ca href=\"http://www.poilane.fr/index.php?index_module=listings&index_theme=english&index_template=en_produit_bdd.php&product_id=1\">Poilane\u003c/a>'s signature loaf) Lulu's bread program was serious.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0224.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So serious, an entire walk-in was devoted to the bread's \u003ca href=\"http://www.io.com/%7Esjohn/sour.htm\">starter\u003c/a>, loaf proofing, and our overstock of dairy. A separate refrigerated room for ingredients lacking in strong scents. Except the time when I backed into whole lambs hanging, waiting for butchering. But that's another story.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Because the restaurant made so much bread, our starter was kept in a plastic rolling garbage can sized container. Massively huge. Lets call it 50 gallons for the sake of a good guess. Whoever arrived first thing in the morning was required to roll it out of the walk-in, pull a few gallons for that nights bake and feed the monster. The last duty meant we had to lean over the lip, reach into the sticky abyss, and stir the gloopy gurgling mixture with a large wooden spoon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>No matter how much we rolled up the sleeves of our chef's jackets, some of the starter would creep into our uniform. But this wasn't the worst of it. Natural starter is stickier than glue. When we were done with our duties, we held out our arms like surgeons and entered the dish room, tackling skin with hot water and the high-pressure sprayer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even after countless showers, little teardrops of dried starter stuck to my arm hairs, eventually rendering me as soft and hairless as a Tour De France cyclist.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0205.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One day I arrived in the kitchen earlier than anyone. I turned on ovens, flipped light switches and then noticed something very weird. The 2nd walk-in door was slightly ajar. Walk-ins come equipped with self-closing doors and, for safety, door handles on the inside as well as the outside. Doors do not stay open, as they are pressure sealed and close with the fwooop! to prove it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was alone in the kitchen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I stood in front of the door. I held my breath. Listened very closely. Nothing but the whir of the fan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then I tried the door. Although it was ajar I had a hard time getting it more open. I tried to peer inside. Nothing. Pulling as hard as I could, the door flew open, throwing me on the ground. Recovering just in time to catch the door before it closed again, I stepped inside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Someone had not sealed the starter's lid. Usually we closed the lid and weighted it with a few half gallons of dairy. To keep the bears out.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0211.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Starter grew out of the 50-gallon bucket. Crept down the sides. Grew across the floor like lava. Scaled the cold box walls. Spread its wings, traversing 90-degree angles, and defied gravity by covering the ceiling. Starter dripped on my head, plop. Starter was everywhere. Alive, happy, wet, sticky, growing. I looked down. Like the first man on the moon I saw my shoes disappearing into foreign goo. Starter naughtily walked out the door.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The starter was having a party.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And I would spend the next many many hours cleaning up after it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lesson number 1:\u003cbr>\nNever leave a starter unattended. Never assume it sleeps a deep dormant sleep in a cold box. Never question the power of wild yeast you've wrangled in, microscopically, from the air. Never forget that day. Never say pshaw to a \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lactobacillus_sanfranciscensis\">Californian sourdough\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Part 2: Monday April 23.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Pastry Chefs in San Francisco: A Sudden Lack Therof?",
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"content": "\u003cp>My birthday is tomorrow. Depending on whose age you look at in my family I am either not yet approaching middle age or will die in about 20 years. Supposedly this means I am to look at where I've been and where I'm going.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Up until very recently much of who I was, was one thing. Pastry Chef. The title, the position I'd been working for the last fourteen years, although much of the time unbeknownst to me, towards this goal. I identified myself with the restaurant I worked for. Which is a very good thing, because the second question people ask me, after learning how to pronounce my name, is, \"Oh really, where do you work?\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I worked as \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2007/01/a_little_sarcas.html\">a pastry cook and assistant for almost 8 years\u003c/a> when I was given my first pastry chef job. Many of the assistants I worked alongside went on to be famous pastry chefs themselves. And I watched many cooks and sous chefs become chefs of their own restaurants. From my point of view one worked themselves up in the ranks before being given or holding a chef title.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the last few weeks I have consumed more desserts at restaurants (A16, Campton Place, Rubicon, Two, Delfina.) than I did all last year. And this week I'll be eating more. In part due to birthday dinners, but also as research for a position I'm interviewing for. The object is to find out who is making what in San Francisco. The goal is to assess the palate of the person I may work with, and for him to see what I might make or what sweet things inspire me. We are both looking at where our foggy city, one of the most food and restaurant-centric in The United States, stands on the platform of pastry chef hiring.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I have even \u003ca href=\"http://www.chowhound.com/topics/382044\">called upon the Chowhounders\u003c/a> to help me track down the best sugary courses within these forty-nine miles. Sadly, it's been like getting a straight answer out of a lawyer. One dessert here, another there. Some have even been so bold as to tell me about the artificially-flavored \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2006/06/butterscotch.html\">butterscotch\u003c/a> pudding at Town Hall. (An article \u003ca href=\"http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2007/03/06/AR2007030600264.html\">about real butterscotch in The Washington Post here\u003c/a>.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'm not looking for all the sweets to be the same. One dessert at Chez Panisse will be like another at Zuni, Quince or Oliveto. (In fact, if you look at the lineage, these restaurants practically trade pastry chefs like baseball cards.) I want to try the homey American desserts at Salt House as well as Citizen Cake's kooky innovative concoctions or straightforward, simple, seasonal creations like those found at Delfina or Foreign Cinema.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My hope is that I will be eating a pastry chef's creations. I'm not so interested in restaurants that buy their desserts from an outside source. (Think I'm making this up? \u003ca href=\"http://www.timeoutny.com/newyork/Details.do?page=1&xyurl=xyl://TONYWebArticles2/596/eat_out/sweet_nothings.xml\">Read this short article\u003c/a> about the disappearing restaurant pastry chefs in NYC.) I'm also a little biased against the chefs who say they're not only the savoury chef of their kitchen, but also the pastry chef. I realize this saves them a lot of money, but I'm really tired of eating warm oozy chocolate cake, creme brulee and tough crusted out-of-season fruit tarts or dishes that look like they just stepped out of the pastry and baking program at CCA.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It sounds like I'm hard to please doesn't it? I'm actually the biggest fan of delicious food you might ever meet. Give me simple, complex, hole-in-the-wall, humble, bold, a quiet ice cream cone, standard traditional fare, technically seamless, fussily plated or a cookie on the go.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Just let me taste the taste of skill, perhaps a dash of inspiration and/or innovation, a love for my craft, tiny sprinkles of deference, whiffs of hope for mastery, half cup of practice, grams upon ounces of question-asking-inquisitiveness, and, although not absolutely necessary: when I close my eyes I'd like to taste that that person's hard work over the years that they've read and worked and asked questions and eaten and tasted helped them land a job where they were taken seriously, and give them the chef title they deserved.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Might you have a favorite pastry chef whose desserts I must have on my extreme dessert-eating spree this week? Any and all suggestions taken into consideration!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Between Meals: SF Chronicle's Michael Bauer blog \u003ca href=\"http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/blogs/sfgate/category?blogid=26&cat=840\">on desserts in the Bay Area\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>My birthday is tomorrow. Depending on whose age you look at in my family I am either not yet approaching middle age or will die in about 20 years. Supposedly this means I am to look at where I've been and where I'm going.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Up until very recently much of who I was, was one thing. Pastry Chef. The title, the position I'd been working for the last fourteen years, although much of the time unbeknownst to me, towards this goal. I identified myself with the restaurant I worked for. Which is a very good thing, because the second question people ask me, after learning how to pronounce my name, is, \"Oh really, where do you work?\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I worked as \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2007/01/a_little_sarcas.html\">a pastry cook and assistant for almost 8 years\u003c/a> when I was given my first pastry chef job. Many of the assistants I worked alongside went on to be famous pastry chefs themselves. And I watched many cooks and sous chefs become chefs of their own restaurants. From my point of view one worked themselves up in the ranks before being given or holding a chef title.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the last few weeks I have consumed more desserts at restaurants (A16, Campton Place, Rubicon, Two, Delfina.) than I did all last year. And this week I'll be eating more. In part due to birthday dinners, but also as research for a position I'm interviewing for. The object is to find out who is making what in San Francisco. The goal is to assess the palate of the person I may work with, and for him to see what I might make or what sweet things inspire me. We are both looking at where our foggy city, one of the most food and restaurant-centric in The United States, stands on the platform of pastry chef hiring.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I have even \u003ca href=\"http://www.chowhound.com/topics/382044\">called upon the Chowhounders\u003c/a> to help me track down the best sugary courses within these forty-nine miles. Sadly, it's been like getting a straight answer out of a lawyer. One dessert here, another there. Some have even been so bold as to tell me about the artificially-flavored \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2006/06/butterscotch.html\">butterscotch\u003c/a> pudding at Town Hall. (An article \u003ca href=\"http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2007/03/06/AR2007030600264.html\">about real butterscotch in The Washington Post here\u003c/a>.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'm not looking for all the sweets to be the same. One dessert at Chez Panisse will be like another at Zuni, Quince or Oliveto. (In fact, if you look at the lineage, these restaurants practically trade pastry chefs like baseball cards.) I want to try the homey American desserts at Salt House as well as Citizen Cake's kooky innovative concoctions or straightforward, simple, seasonal creations like those found at Delfina or Foreign Cinema.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My hope is that I will be eating a pastry chef's creations. I'm not so interested in restaurants that buy their desserts from an outside source. (Think I'm making this up? \u003ca href=\"http://www.timeoutny.com/newyork/Details.do?page=1&xyurl=xyl://TONYWebArticles2/596/eat_out/sweet_nothings.xml\">Read this short article\u003c/a> about the disappearing restaurant pastry chefs in NYC.) I'm also a little biased against the chefs who say they're not only the savoury chef of their kitchen, but also the pastry chef. I realize this saves them a lot of money, but I'm really tired of eating warm oozy chocolate cake, creme brulee and tough crusted out-of-season fruit tarts or dishes that look like they just stepped out of the pastry and baking program at CCA.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It sounds like I'm hard to please doesn't it? I'm actually the biggest fan of delicious food you might ever meet. Give me simple, complex, hole-in-the-wall, humble, bold, a quiet ice cream cone, standard traditional fare, technically seamless, fussily plated or a cookie on the go.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Just let me taste the taste of skill, perhaps a dash of inspiration and/or innovation, a love for my craft, tiny sprinkles of deference, whiffs of hope for mastery, half cup of practice, grams upon ounces of question-asking-inquisitiveness, and, although not absolutely necessary: when I close my eyes I'd like to taste that that person's hard work over the years that they've read and worked and asked questions and eaten and tasted helped them land a job where they were taken seriously, and give them the chef title they deserved.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Might you have a favorite pastry chef whose desserts I must have on my extreme dessert-eating spree this week? Any and all suggestions taken into consideration!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Between Meals: SF Chronicle's Michael Bauer blog \u003ca href=\"http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/blogs/sfgate/category?blogid=26&cat=840\">on desserts in the Bay Area\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Brain Food: Local Events & Exhibits",
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"content": "\u003cp>In this age of Google and Wikipedia, it's easy to forget the joy of getting lost for hours deep in the stacks of a three-dimensional library. To entice you back to these important anchors of our community, here's a short list of culinary exhibits and events worth adding to your list of food adventures:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>READING AMERICA: Reconstructed Books by Mary Marsh\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg>\u003cbr>\u003ci> \"Snack.\" Mary Marsh, 2004. Coffee, ink, gouache on found book.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Head to the airy, sunny sixth floor of the San Francisco Main Library to find a wonderful exhibit of new work by artist Mary Marsh. Using comfort food as an analogy, Marsh explores the intersection of eating and reading. Discarded books and old library catalog cards (remember those?!) find new lives with bits of linen tape, layers of gouache and coffee as ink. Marsh explores issues of privacy, consumption and narrative with these evocative creations. Her artwork will be on display at the library galleries though April 5, 2007.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While you're at the top of the SF Main, visit one of my favorite local resources: the Koshland SF History Center. If you can't make it there in person, it's almost as fun browsing their amazing photo collection online. Their \"Picture This\" series includes a line of serious-minded, long-aproned \u003ca href=\"http://sfpl.org/news/onlineexhibits/shades/onthejob/004-022.htm\">\u003cstrong>butchers at the Stadium Market\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> in the Sunset District (1935), a proud baker at \u003ca href=\"http://sfpl.org/news/onlineexhibits/shades/onthejob/002-504.htm\">\u003cstrong>Dianda's Bakery\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> in the Mission (1980); and a \u003ca href=\"http://sfpl.org/news/onlineexhibits/shades/celebrations/001-225.htm\">\u003cstrong>birthday party in the Western Addition\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>, when Japanese-American families still flourished in the neighborhood (1938).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://sfpl.org/news/exhibitions.htm\">\u003cstrong>San Francisco Main Library, 6th Floor\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>100 Larkin Street, San Francisco\u003cbr>(415) 557-4400\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>TASTE MATTERS: The Role of Food and Drink in Jewish Culture\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg>\u003cbr>\u003ci> Detail of \"Pesach\" by \u003ca href=\"http://w3chi.blogspot.com/\">\u003cstrong>Mary Thorman\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Magnes Museum, a stately building tucked in the foothills of Berkeley, has launched a series of cross-disciplinary presentations of gastronomic narratives in Jewish culture. These intimate gatherings are open to the public ($8 for nonmembers) and offer a valuable resource both for those attempting to understand their own heritage and those trying to learn more about the history of an important but largely invisible group. Last week's conversation with Eleanor Kaufman from UCLA highlighted \u003ca href=\"http://www.storiesuntold.org/women/sophie_trupin.html\">\u003cstrong>Eastern European homesteaders\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> keeping kosher under harsh conditions on the plains and utopian farming communities, such as \u003ca href=\"http://www.jewishchickenranchers.com/history/\">\u003cstrong>Petaluma's chicken and egg producers\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>, that succeeded for a brief period in the early to mid-20th century. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On May 31, Alisa Braun from UC Davis will discuss the depiction of Jewish foods in films, and on August 16, Benjamin Wurgaft from UC Berkeley will show how food writers, both Jewish and non-Jewish, shape perception and identity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In addition to its ceremonial, decorative and modern art collections, the Magnes houses an excellent research library for scholars of Jewish history and culture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.magnes.org/\">\u003cstrong>Judah L. Magnes Museum\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>2911 Russell Street, Berkeley\u003cbr>(510) 549-6950\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>ALICE STATLER LIBRARY\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg>\u003cbr>\u003ci>The menu cover from a 1930s \"Bohemian\" restaurant near Coit Tower.\u003c/i> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To support its stellar culinary arts and hospitality program, City College maintains a reading library of books about food, restaurants and anything remotely related to the history, culture, science, politics and business of cooking and eating. Their periodical collection alone could occupy a dedicated cook for years. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Though nearly everyone in the Statler Library is wearing chef whites, it's open to the public. You're welcome to read for hours whether you're browsing for random discoveries, honing a research topic or filling up on glossy food mags.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You can also enjoy the library's beautiful \u003ca href=\"http://www.ccsf.edu/Library/alice/menucollections/index.html\">\u003cstrong>menu collections\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> online. With their covers and inside pages lovingly scanned, the menus highlight restaurants across the nation as well as concessionaries at the 1939 World's Fair in San Francisco.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.ccsf.edu/Library/alice/index.html\">\u003cstrong>Alice Statler Library\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>City College of San Francisco\u003cbr>Room 10, Statler Wing\u003cbr>50 Phelan Avenue, San Francisco\u003cbr>(415) 239-3460\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"description": "In this age of Google and Wikipedia, it's easy to forget the joy of getting lost for hours deep in the stacks of a three-dimensional library. To entice you back to these important anchors of our community, here's a short list of culinary exhibits and events worth adding to your list of food adventures: READING",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>In this age of Google and Wikipedia, it's easy to forget the joy of getting lost for hours deep in the stacks of a three-dimensional library. To entice you back to these important anchors of our community, here's a short list of culinary exhibits and events worth adding to your list of food adventures:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>READING AMERICA: Reconstructed Books by Mary Marsh\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg>\u003cbr>\u003ci> \"Snack.\" Mary Marsh, 2004. Coffee, ink, gouache on found book.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Head to the airy, sunny sixth floor of the San Francisco Main Library to find a wonderful exhibit of new work by artist Mary Marsh. Using comfort food as an analogy, Marsh explores the intersection of eating and reading. Discarded books and old library catalog cards (remember those?!) find new lives with bits of linen tape, layers of gouache and coffee as ink. Marsh explores issues of privacy, consumption and narrative with these evocative creations. Her artwork will be on display at the library galleries though April 5, 2007.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While you're at the top of the SF Main, visit one of my favorite local resources: the Koshland SF History Center. If you can't make it there in person, it's almost as fun browsing their amazing photo collection online. Their \"Picture This\" series includes a line of serious-minded, long-aproned \u003ca href=\"http://sfpl.org/news/onlineexhibits/shades/onthejob/004-022.htm\">\u003cstrong>butchers at the Stadium Market\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> in the Sunset District (1935), a proud baker at \u003ca href=\"http://sfpl.org/news/onlineexhibits/shades/onthejob/002-504.htm\">\u003cstrong>Dianda's Bakery\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> in the Mission (1980); and a \u003ca href=\"http://sfpl.org/news/onlineexhibits/shades/celebrations/001-225.htm\">\u003cstrong>birthday party in the Western Addition\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>, when Japanese-American families still flourished in the neighborhood (1938).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://sfpl.org/news/exhibitions.htm\">\u003cstrong>San Francisco Main Library, 6th Floor\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>100 Larkin Street, San Francisco\u003cbr>(415) 557-4400\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>TASTE MATTERS: The Role of Food and Drink in Jewish Culture\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg>\u003cbr>\u003ci> Detail of \"Pesach\" by \u003ca href=\"http://w3chi.blogspot.com/\">\u003cstrong>Mary Thorman\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Magnes Museum, a stately building tucked in the foothills of Berkeley, has launched a series of cross-disciplinary presentations of gastronomic narratives in Jewish culture. These intimate gatherings are open to the public ($8 for nonmembers) and offer a valuable resource both for those attempting to understand their own heritage and those trying to learn more about the history of an important but largely invisible group. Last week's conversation with Eleanor Kaufman from UCLA highlighted \u003ca href=\"http://www.storiesuntold.org/women/sophie_trupin.html\">\u003cstrong>Eastern European homesteaders\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> keeping kosher under harsh conditions on the plains and utopian farming communities, such as \u003ca href=\"http://www.jewishchickenranchers.com/history/\">\u003cstrong>Petaluma's chicken and egg producers\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>, that succeeded for a brief period in the early to mid-20th century. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On May 31, Alisa Braun from UC Davis will discuss the depiction of Jewish foods in films, and on August 16, Benjamin Wurgaft from UC Berkeley will show how food writers, both Jewish and non-Jewish, shape perception and identity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In addition to its ceremonial, decorative and modern art collections, the Magnes houses an excellent research library for scholars of Jewish history and culture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.magnes.org/\">\u003cstrong>Judah L. Magnes Museum\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>2911 Russell Street, Berkeley\u003cbr>(510) 549-6950\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>ALICE STATLER LIBRARY\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg>\u003cbr>\u003ci>The menu cover from a 1930s \"Bohemian\" restaurant near Coit Tower.\u003c/i> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To support its stellar culinary arts and hospitality program, City College maintains a reading library of books about food, restaurants and anything remotely related to the history, culture, science, politics and business of cooking and eating. Their periodical collection alone could occupy a dedicated cook for years. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Though nearly everyone in the Statler Library is wearing chef whites, it's open to the public. You're welcome to read for hours whether you're browsing for random discoveries, honing a research topic or filling up on glossy food mags.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You can also enjoy the library's beautiful \u003ca href=\"http://www.ccsf.edu/Library/alice/menucollections/index.html\">\u003cstrong>menu collections\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> online. With their covers and inside pages lovingly scanned, the menus highlight restaurants across the nation as well as concessionaries at the 1939 World's Fair in San Francisco.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.ccsf.edu/Library/alice/index.html\">\u003cstrong>Alice Statler Library\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>City College of San Francisco\u003cbr>Room 10, Statler Wing\u003cbr>50 Phelan Avenue, San Francisco\u003cbr>(415) 239-3460\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"info": "What kind of no sabo word is Hyphenación? For us, it’s about living within a hyphenation. Like being a third-gen Mexican-American from the Texas border now living that Bay Area Chicano life. Like Xorje! Each week we bring together a couple of hyphenated Latinos to talk all about personal life choices: family, careers, relationships, belonging … everything is on the table. ",
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"info": "The Political Mind of Jerry Brown brings listeners the wisdom of the former Governor, Mayor, and presidential candidate. Scott Shafer interviewed Brown for more than 40 hours, covering the former governor's life and half-century in the political game and Brown has some lessons he'd like to share. ",
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"info": "Our flagship program, helmed by Kai Ryssdal, examines what the day in money delivered, through stories, conversations, newsworthy numbers and more. Updated Monday through Friday at about 3:30 p.m. PT.",
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"info": "The MindShift podcast explores the innovations in education that are shaping how kids learn. Hosts Ki Sung and Katrina Schwartz introduce listeners to educators, researchers, parents and students who are developing effective ways to improve how kids learn. We cover topics like how fed-up administrators are developing surprising tactics to deal with classroom disruptions; how listening to podcasts are helping kids develop reading skills; the consequences of overparenting; and why interdisciplinary learning can engage students on all ends of the traditional achievement spectrum. This podcast is part of the MindShift education site, a division of KQED News. KQED is an NPR/PBS member station based in San Francisco. You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>",
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"info": "For decades, the process for how police police themselves has been inconsistent – if not opaque. In some states, like California, these proceedings were completely hidden. After a new police transparency law unsealed scores of internal affairs files, our reporters set out to examine these cases and the shadow world of police discipline. On Our Watch brings listeners into the rooms where officers are questioned and witnesses are interrogated to find out who this system is really protecting. Is it the officers, or the public they've sworn to serve?",
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"tagline": "Politics from a personal perspective",
"info": "Political Breakdown is a new series that explores the political intersection of California and the nation. Each week hosts Scott Shafer and Marisa Lagos are joined with a new special guest to unpack politics -- with personality — and offer an insider’s glimpse at how politics happens.",
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"possible": {
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"info": "Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.",
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"pri-the-world": {
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"info": "Each weekday, host Marco Werman and his team of producers bring you the world's most interesting stories in an hour of radio that reminds us just how small our planet really is.",
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"radiolab": {
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"info": "A two-time Peabody Award-winner, Radiolab is an investigation told through sounds and stories, and centered around one big idea. In the Radiolab world, information sounds like music and science and culture collide. Hosted by Jad Abumrad and Robert Krulwich, the show is designed for listeners who demand skepticism, but appreciate wonder. WNYC Studios is the producer of other leading podcasts including Freakonomics Radio, Death, Sex & Money, On the Media and many more.",
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"reveal": {
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},
"rightnowish": {
"id": "rightnowish",
"title": "Rightnowish",
"tagline": "Art is where you find it",
"info": "Rightnowish digs into life in the Bay Area right now… ish. Journalist Pendarvis Harshaw takes us to galleries painted on the sides of liquor stores in West Oakland. We'll dance in warehouses in the Bayview, make smoothies with kids in South Berkeley, and listen to classical music in a 1984 Cutlass Supreme in Richmond. Every week, Pen talks to movers and shakers about how the Bay Area shapes what they create, and how they shape the place we call home.",
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},
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"info": "Science Friday is a weekly science talk show, broadcast live over public radio stations nationwide. Each week, the show focuses on science topics that are in the news and tries to bring an educated, balanced discussion to bear on the scientific issues at hand. Panels of expert guests join host Ira Flatow, a veteran science journalist, to discuss science and to take questions from listeners during the call-in portion of the program.",
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"snap-judgment": {
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"title": "Snap Judgment",
"tagline": "Real stories with killer beats",
"info": "The Snap Judgment radio show and podcast mixes real stories with killer beats to produce cinematic, dramatic radio. Snap's musical brand of storytelling dares listeners to see the world through the eyes of another. This is storytelling... with a BEAT!! Snap first aired on public radio stations nationwide in July 2010. Today, Snap Judgment airs on over 450 public radio stations and is brought to the airwaves by KQED & PRX.",
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