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"disqusTitle": "Spirit Vegetables: What would yours be? ",
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"content": "\u003cp>People cop to having spirit animals. No one carves totem poles anymore but I do know a guy who was once so obsessed with lions that he sewed a frilly yellow felt mane along the hood of his favorite sweat-jacket. During that phase, at parties, he'd roar frequently, with the hood up and curled around his head. As for me, I'm not sure. A girlfriend once told me I reminded her of a \"big, goofy bird.\" A year later, another described me as cat-like. Cats give me violent sneezing fits, and I'm indifferent to any fowl that hasn't been plucked and braised. In truth, I've never been particularly keen on spirit animals. Some folks realize theirs in meditative visions, and others take a Facebook quiz, but either way, the selection process is deeply flawed. I doubt any shamanistic traveler has journeyed through mystic pathways in search of animal power and encountered a yapping Pomeranian at the end of the line. The problem is obvious: we find human traits in animals both wild and domesticated so easily that seeing ourselves in their skins is no great stretch, and the tendency to telegraph our self-associations is in the end too powerful.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What about vegetables? Might we possess vegetable spirits as well as those of animals? Biologically we certainly have much less in common with them. The edible buds, bulbs, seeds, stems, roots, and leaves of plants, vegetables are inanimate and mute. They don't procreate or eat like us, show emotion, or play. Identifying with them in such a personal sense requires a significant suspension of disbelief. When I\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2009/06/23/weird-vegetables/\"> interviewed\u003c/a> Eggplant Kohlrabi and Kale Daikon of the scintillating blog \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2009/06/23/weird-vegetables/\">Weird Vegetables\u003c/a> back in June, our conversation touched on the issue. We were discussing the polarizing black radish, a vegetable the two had described on their blog as being very \"radish-y,\" meaning of course, that it epitomized, in their eyes, the pungent and peppery traits commonly associated with the radish diaspora. Spurred, I think, by the blog's frequent clever forays into anthropomorphism, I felt suddenly compelled to ask them if people could be \"radish-y\" too. The resulting dialogue chewed up the rest of the interview.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In an exchange I edited out of the final transcript, I shared with them the story of a friend from college. In college, I knew this guy -- a great guy, incidentally -- who did a self-help radio show on the student-run station. Ingeniously, the show wasn't about helping those calling in; it was about helping himself. Slighted friends and spurned lovers would get on the air and give him shit, and he, flustered and mortified, would beseech listeners for advice. Anyway, as I told Daikon and Kohlrabi, this fellow once told a pal of mine in a moment of ill-advised candor that she reminded him of an olive -- probably because she's dark-haired, dark-eyed, and a little bitter-seeming until you get to know her. At the time, my friend hated the taste of olives, and recoiled at the fairly terrifying prospect of resembling and evoking something she despised.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/12/vegtoon500.jpg\" alt=\"Spirit Vegetables vegtoon\" title=\"Spirit Vegetables vegtoon\" width=\"500\" height=\"456\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-8967\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some vegetables, like potatoes, for example, with their nubs and pits, can sometimes look like people, especially faces. Superficially, people may also take on vaguely vegetal characteristics. With a little imagination and some squinting, the morning commute reveals a lush farm stand of walking, talking veggies: dour wrinkled turnips lugging briefcases, posh little shallots dabbing away with eyeliner, and lanky carrots bopping along to iPods, their plumes of hair flopping delicately back and forth. The possibilities multiply as you dig deeper, drawing arbitrary parallels between human personality traits and properties of vegetables. There is no universal methodology for this kind of cross-kingdom organization, which is naturally part of the fun. When you look at yourself, and then into yourself, and then out again, across the mist-mottled expanse of reds, greens, purples, and browns in a grocery store produce section, or perhaps the big rough bins of a friendly farmer's market purveyor, what suits you best? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Two weeks ago, curious to this end, I sent an email out to some area food folks, hope to ensnare a full sack of reactions. The email posed the question (\"If you were a vegetable, which one would you be?\") and left the criteria open-ended. I gathered responses and took stock of the respondents' rationales where they were given. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Eric Smillie\u003c/strong>, proprietor of the excellently briny Oakland-based blog \u003ca href=\"http://www.awesomepickle.com/\">Awesome Pickle\u003c/a>, would be a green cabbage, because \"they're versatile, they're good for you, and they don't mess around.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Nancy Gammons\u003c/strong> of \u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org/markets/farmers/farm_33.php\">Four Sisters Farms\u003c/a> near Monterey would be purslane. \"It grows anywhere,\" she said: \"[It's] tenacious...very nutritious, and remains humble.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Farmer Joe Shirmer\u003c/strong>, owner of \u003ca href=\"http://dirtygirlproduce.com/\">Dirty Girl Produce\u003c/a> in Santa Cruz, would be red Russian kale. His clod-solid reasoning: \"I would fly under the radar as many would think of me as common or mundane or even boring...but in fact I would be the biggest boldest most bountiful four season bad ass around. Nothing would bring me down. Heat, frost, wind, and drought would all pass me buy and I'd thrive. Tomatoes and beans, pomegranates and mandarin oranges, kiwis and peppers would come and go; I'd just kick back and grow -- the healthiest dude around.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wild foods advocate \u003cstrong>Iso Rabins\u003c/strong> of \u003ca href=\"http://www.foragesf.com/\">forageSF\u003c/a> got appropriately fungal with his pick-- a \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Matsutake\">matsutake\u003c/a> mushroom. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Having filled many bowls at his bean-in happy hours, \u003cstrong>Mark Andrew Gravel\u003c/strong>, the food activist/artist in charge of \u003ca href=\"http://bouwerie.blogspot.com/\">Agrarian Art Lab\u003c/a>, fittingly leaned legume. \"They are thrifty,\" he mused. \"And very satisfying when made well. They seem like a fairly wise vegetable too. Plus they have two sisters that I'm into,\" he added, presumably making a keen historical reference to corn and squash, the crops North American Indian tribes frequently planted in patches as companions to beans. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Jamie Law\u003c/strong>, Manager of Media Relations and Special Events for \u003ca href=\"http://www.kimptonhotels.com/\">Kimpton Hotels and Restaurants\u003c/a>, would be corn because it's \"versatile (corn meal, raw, cooked a billion different ways), tough, and great in sweet and savory dishes.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nearly half a dozen \u003ca href=\"http://www.cafegratitude.com/\">Cafe Gratitude\u003c/a> employees weighed in, including one who just had to drop a little \"you are healthy\" at the end of his answer. To share one response, the company's district manager \u003cstrong>Chandra Gilbert\u003c/strong> identified with humble Brussels sprouts: \"Not everyone loves them although those who do love the heck out of them...and you really need to know how to treat them.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Finally, \u003cstrong>Gayle Pirie\u003c/strong> and \u003cstrong>John Clark\u003c/strong> of \u003ca href=\"http://www.foreigncinema.com/\">Foreign Cinema\u003c/a> came through with chef-ly perspectives. Pirie would be \"the artichoke, for the mild nutty flavor, many green leaves, and a deeply sweet edible heart at the center.\" Clark would be \"celery for its intense rib cage, strength, magnificent versatility, and tender heart with edible leaves, delicious cooked or raw.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I have included only a sampling, but even from this, enough is clear: nearly all of the respondents associate themselves with vegetables they prize for eating and cooking. Some, like Smillie and Gilbert, also allude to looking for themselves in the vegetables they adore, perhaps coveting those vegetables' traits as their own, viewing them as vessels for whatever meanings they might infer. Brussels sprouts, for example, are divisive. They are, as Gilbert suggested, a little hard to love; they're so often taken in the wrong context, misinterpreted, and abused. We all have stories about them. They are like difficult people who do good work -- say, a crotchety old civil rights attorney prone to shouting down his secretary and making bad jokes at the wrong times. You can accept them, respect them, and like them immensely, but you can't take them wholly as they are. They have to be prepared well -- shredded for a salad maybe, or roasted whole. They need to be matched with suitable companions to smooth out their harsher aspects -- like bacon, or thyme and mustard. They should be served in the right setting, under the proper circumstances. A lot of vegetables -- along with people -- take some warming up. Until I was 22 or so, I was weird about parsnips. They always struck me as peculiar ghostly characters, like carrots ravaged by \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bunnicula\">Bunnicula\u003c/a>. With their tough skin and fibrous core, parsnips take a little finessing, but they are delightful once melting into a stew or sweetening a tuber puree. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \"I think about things I want to eat and they aren't usually [things] I'd want to be,\" Kohlrabi had said towards the end of our interview, petting a cat as it sidled past along the carpet. At the time, stifling a wicked sneeze, I'd suggested being something no one would eat, but now, the more I think about it, my mind has changed. Me, I would like to be eaten, to give sustenance to others. Since we're speaking metaphorically, consumption would not cut my life short, simply enrich it. In the course of my life, I'd like to help nourish the people I encounter -- whether through art, education, or friendship -- providing of course they're willing to try me. After all, life's too short to be a \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rhubarb\">rhubarb leaf\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "What about vegetables? Might we possess vegetable spirits as well as those of animals? Biologically we certainly have much less in common with them. The edible buds, bulbs, seeds, stems, roots, and leaves of plants, vegetables are inanimate and mute. They don't procreate or eat like us, show emotion, or play. Identifying with them in such a personal sense requires a significant suspension of disbelief.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>People cop to having spirit animals. No one carves totem poles anymore but I do know a guy who was once so obsessed with lions that he sewed a frilly yellow felt mane along the hood of his favorite sweat-jacket. During that phase, at parties, he'd roar frequently, with the hood up and curled around his head. As for me, I'm not sure. A girlfriend once told me I reminded her of a \"big, goofy bird.\" A year later, another described me as cat-like. Cats give me violent sneezing fits, and I'm indifferent to any fowl that hasn't been plucked and braised. In truth, I've never been particularly keen on spirit animals. Some folks realize theirs in meditative visions, and others take a Facebook quiz, but either way, the selection process is deeply flawed. I doubt any shamanistic traveler has journeyed through mystic pathways in search of animal power and encountered a yapping Pomeranian at the end of the line. The problem is obvious: we find human traits in animals both wild and domesticated so easily that seeing ourselves in their skins is no great stretch, and the tendency to telegraph our self-associations is in the end too powerful.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What about vegetables? Might we possess vegetable spirits as well as those of animals? Biologically we certainly have much less in common with them. The edible buds, bulbs, seeds, stems, roots, and leaves of plants, vegetables are inanimate and mute. They don't procreate or eat like us, show emotion, or play. Identifying with them in such a personal sense requires a significant suspension of disbelief. When I\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2009/06/23/weird-vegetables/\"> interviewed\u003c/a> Eggplant Kohlrabi and Kale Daikon of the scintillating blog \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2009/06/23/weird-vegetables/\">Weird Vegetables\u003c/a> back in June, our conversation touched on the issue. We were discussing the polarizing black radish, a vegetable the two had described on their blog as being very \"radish-y,\" meaning of course, that it epitomized, in their eyes, the pungent and peppery traits commonly associated with the radish diaspora. Spurred, I think, by the blog's frequent clever forays into anthropomorphism, I felt suddenly compelled to ask them if people could be \"radish-y\" too. The resulting dialogue chewed up the rest of the interview.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In an exchange I edited out of the final transcript, I shared with them the story of a friend from college. In college, I knew this guy -- a great guy, incidentally -- who did a self-help radio show on the student-run station. Ingeniously, the show wasn't about helping those calling in; it was about helping himself. Slighted friends and spurned lovers would get on the air and give him shit, and he, flustered and mortified, would beseech listeners for advice. Anyway, as I told Daikon and Kohlrabi, this fellow once told a pal of mine in a moment of ill-advised candor that she reminded him of an olive -- probably because she's dark-haired, dark-eyed, and a little bitter-seeming until you get to know her. At the time, my friend hated the taste of olives, and recoiled at the fairly terrifying prospect of resembling and evoking something she despised.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/12/vegtoon500.jpg\" alt=\"Spirit Vegetables vegtoon\" title=\"Spirit Vegetables vegtoon\" width=\"500\" height=\"456\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-8967\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some vegetables, like potatoes, for example, with their nubs and pits, can sometimes look like people, especially faces. Superficially, people may also take on vaguely vegetal characteristics. With a little imagination and some squinting, the morning commute reveals a lush farm stand of walking, talking veggies: dour wrinkled turnips lugging briefcases, posh little shallots dabbing away with eyeliner, and lanky carrots bopping along to iPods, their plumes of hair flopping delicately back and forth. The possibilities multiply as you dig deeper, drawing arbitrary parallels between human personality traits and properties of vegetables. There is no universal methodology for this kind of cross-kingdom organization, which is naturally part of the fun. When you look at yourself, and then into yourself, and then out again, across the mist-mottled expanse of reds, greens, purples, and browns in a grocery store produce section, or perhaps the big rough bins of a friendly farmer's market purveyor, what suits you best? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Two weeks ago, curious to this end, I sent an email out to some area food folks, hope to ensnare a full sack of reactions. The email posed the question (\"If you were a vegetable, which one would you be?\") and left the criteria open-ended. I gathered responses and took stock of the respondents' rationales where they were given. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Eric Smillie\u003c/strong>, proprietor of the excellently briny Oakland-based blog \u003ca href=\"http://www.awesomepickle.com/\">Awesome Pickle\u003c/a>, would be a green cabbage, because \"they're versatile, they're good for you, and they don't mess around.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Nancy Gammons\u003c/strong> of \u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org/markets/farmers/farm_33.php\">Four Sisters Farms\u003c/a> near Monterey would be purslane. \"It grows anywhere,\" she said: \"[It's] tenacious...very nutritious, and remains humble.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Farmer Joe Shirmer\u003c/strong>, owner of \u003ca href=\"http://dirtygirlproduce.com/\">Dirty Girl Produce\u003c/a> in Santa Cruz, would be red Russian kale. His clod-solid reasoning: \"I would fly under the radar as many would think of me as common or mundane or even boring...but in fact I would be the biggest boldest most bountiful four season bad ass around. Nothing would bring me down. Heat, frost, wind, and drought would all pass me buy and I'd thrive. Tomatoes and beans, pomegranates and mandarin oranges, kiwis and peppers would come and go; I'd just kick back and grow -- the healthiest dude around.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wild foods advocate \u003cstrong>Iso Rabins\u003c/strong> of \u003ca href=\"http://www.foragesf.com/\">forageSF\u003c/a> got appropriately fungal with his pick-- a \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Matsutake\">matsutake\u003c/a> mushroom. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Having filled many bowls at his bean-in happy hours, \u003cstrong>Mark Andrew Gravel\u003c/strong>, the food activist/artist in charge of \u003ca href=\"http://bouwerie.blogspot.com/\">Agrarian Art Lab\u003c/a>, fittingly leaned legume. \"They are thrifty,\" he mused. \"And very satisfying when made well. They seem like a fairly wise vegetable too. Plus they have two sisters that I'm into,\" he added, presumably making a keen historical reference to corn and squash, the crops North American Indian tribes frequently planted in patches as companions to beans. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Jamie Law\u003c/strong>, Manager of Media Relations and Special Events for \u003ca href=\"http://www.kimptonhotels.com/\">Kimpton Hotels and Restaurants\u003c/a>, would be corn because it's \"versatile (corn meal, raw, cooked a billion different ways), tough, and great in sweet and savory dishes.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nearly half a dozen \u003ca href=\"http://www.cafegratitude.com/\">Cafe Gratitude\u003c/a> employees weighed in, including one who just had to drop a little \"you are healthy\" at the end of his answer. To share one response, the company's district manager \u003cstrong>Chandra Gilbert\u003c/strong> identified with humble Brussels sprouts: \"Not everyone loves them although those who do love the heck out of them...and you really need to know how to treat them.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Finally, \u003cstrong>Gayle Pirie\u003c/strong> and \u003cstrong>John Clark\u003c/strong> of \u003ca href=\"http://www.foreigncinema.com/\">Foreign Cinema\u003c/a> came through with chef-ly perspectives. Pirie would be \"the artichoke, for the mild nutty flavor, many green leaves, and a deeply sweet edible heart at the center.\" Clark would be \"celery for its intense rib cage, strength, magnificent versatility, and tender heart with edible leaves, delicious cooked or raw.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I have included only a sampling, but even from this, enough is clear: nearly all of the respondents associate themselves with vegetables they prize for eating and cooking. Some, like Smillie and Gilbert, also allude to looking for themselves in the vegetables they adore, perhaps coveting those vegetables' traits as their own, viewing them as vessels for whatever meanings they might infer. Brussels sprouts, for example, are divisive. They are, as Gilbert suggested, a little hard to love; they're so often taken in the wrong context, misinterpreted, and abused. We all have stories about them. They are like difficult people who do good work -- say, a crotchety old civil rights attorney prone to shouting down his secretary and making bad jokes at the wrong times. You can accept them, respect them, and like them immensely, but you can't take them wholly as they are. They have to be prepared well -- shredded for a salad maybe, or roasted whole. They need to be matched with suitable companions to smooth out their harsher aspects -- like bacon, or thyme and mustard. They should be served in the right setting, under the proper circumstances. A lot of vegetables -- along with people -- take some warming up. Until I was 22 or so, I was weird about parsnips. They always struck me as peculiar ghostly characters, like carrots ravaged by \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bunnicula\">Bunnicula\u003c/a>. With their tough skin and fibrous core, parsnips take a little finessing, but they are delightful once melting into a stew or sweetening a tuber puree. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \"I think about things I want to eat and they aren't usually [things] I'd want to be,\" Kohlrabi had said towards the end of our interview, petting a cat as it sidled past along the carpet. At the time, stifling a wicked sneeze, I'd suggested being something no one would eat, but now, the more I think about it, my mind has changed. Me, I would like to be eaten, to give sustenance to others. Since we're speaking metaphorically, consumption would not cut my life short, simply enrich it. In the course of my life, I'd like to help nourish the people I encounter -- whether through art, education, or friendship -- providing of course they're willing to try me. After all, life's too short to be a \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rhubarb\">rhubarb leaf\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "State of Pastry in SF",
"title": "State of Pastry in SF",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.flickr.com/photos/shingwong/4157066180/in/set-72157622805552011/\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-8733\" title=\"Commonwealth Club panel\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/12/cc-panel1.jpg\" alt=\"Commonwealth Club panel\" width=\"499\" height=\"330\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>The Commonwealth Club: The State of Pastry in SF INFORUM panel. Photo by Shing Wong.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It may be hard to believe, but there was a time—call it the 1990s—when people, even suave city folk like yourself, did not want salt in their caramels or bacon in their chocolate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Indeed, what did the fancy folk want? Having spent most of that decade as a restaurant critic, I can tell you: they wanted crème brûlée. Ginger crème brûlée. Lavender crème brûlée, introduced at Absinthe by then-pastry chef Clare Legas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then molten chocolate cake slipped in. First simply warm and a little gooey inside, it morphed slowly into a volcano of bubbling chocolate lava held back by only the thinnests of crusts. Near the end of the decade, the endless forward march of glassy-topped custards was briefly interrupted by a wiggle of panna cottas. (Surely, at Delfina, some bill is paid purely by sales of their buttermilk panna cotta, a dessert that's never been off the menu in ten years.) There were flirtations with Asian flavors, a little green tea there, a spark of yuzu here.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, of course, you can't swing a puggle in this town without landing it face-first in someone's salted-caramel-bacon-gingerbread cupcake. Salt and bacon seem here to stay, as does anything cute and bite-sized. Olive oil ice cream (or olive oil \u003cem>over\u003c/em> ice cream), curry sabayons, a creeping hint of soy and balsamic vinegar: savory has colonized our sweet, and that's the way we like it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That was the takeaway from last Tuesday's \u003ca href=\"http://www.commonwealthclub.org/INFORUM/about.html\">INFORUM\u003c/a> panel at the \u003ca href=\"http://tickets.commonwealthclub.org/\">Commonwealth Club\u003c/a>, where four of the city's most innovative pastry chefs gathered to discuss \u003cstrong>The State of Pastry in SF\u003c/strong>. On the panel were Luis Villavelasquez (\u003ca href=\"http://www.absinthe.com/\">Absinthe\u003c/a>), William Werner (\u003ca href=\"http://www.quincerestaurant.com\">Quince\u003c/a>), Elizabeth Falkner (\u003ca href=\"http://www.orsonsf.com\">Orson\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.citizencake.com\">Citizen Cake\u003c/a>), and Bill Corbett, recently of \u003ca href=\"http://www.michaelmina.net\">Michael Mina\u003c/a>. The questions tossed out by moderator Jessica Battalina, associate food editor of \u003ca href=\"http://www.7x7.com\">7x7\u003c/a>, were marshmallow-soft, but some interesting tidbits did arise.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On NYC vs. SF Pastry Styles:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem> Corbett:\u003c/em> I spent 5 years cooking in New York before I came to California. New York chefs can't rely on getting really excellent produce all the time, so it forces their creativity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(True: Would Momofuku's Christina Tosi be so obsessed with \u003ca href=\"http://nymag.com/restaurants/features/52411/\">cereal milk\u003c/a> if she had Betty Van Dyke's apricots in her backyard?)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Falkner:\u003c/em> Here, we don't have time to screw around with stuff that's only going to be here for a couple of weeks, like elephant-heart plums or Indian red peaches.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On Wooing Diners to Weirdness:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Corbett:\u003c/em> It helps to put it into a recognizable form. If I want to use beets, for example, I might use them in a red velvet cake, because everyone knows what that is.\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Villavelasquez:\u003c/em> In Japan, they use a lot of Okinawa blue potatoes, which are not well know here. But we do have sweet potato pie, so you could use them in something like that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, as artists as well as artisans, these chefs would love to play to an audience eager and willing for innovation. But then again, restaurants are businesses, and change comes at a price. Unfamiliar flavors tend to sneak via the fine print. At Quince, Werner gives his pear tart a bump with a side of rosemary ice cream. At Absinthe, the earthy sweetness of a carrot reduction plays off the mellow spice of a pumpkin custard, while at Orson, creole cream cheese and Tabasco gives a kick in the shins to sticky toffee pudding. Sometimes, though, two great tastes don't go great together. . .\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Epic Fails?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Corbett:\u003c/em> When I started at Michael Mina, I had lofty intentions—I was going to be the one to show customers how to break out. I did this chocolate plate that had a basil s'more, a tahini chocolate mousse. . . all that was fine until I put in this perfect cube of devil's food cake with black olives. Now, I love chocolate and olives, I think they go really well together. But I realized that when people saw what they thought was a piece of devil's food cake, they expected one thing. So, you can't make an unfamiliar thing look too familiar.\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Werner:\u003c/em> Anchovy croissants. It was a humbling experience.\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Falkner:\u003c/em> Trying to transport an elaborate wedding cake on a hot summer day in the backseat of an old Pinto with no A/C. I got to the Sherman House with the cake melted all over me, and they just looked at me, like, 'What kind of punk-ass are you'?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Current Obsessions?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Falkner:\u003c/em> Hydrocolloids! That's what I say to everyone these days. I feel like that guy in \u003cem>The Graduate\u003c/em>, telling Dustin Hoffman to get into plastics.\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Werner:\u003c/em> Persimmons, because I don't really like them. I'm forcing myself to use them and see what I can do.\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Corbett:\u003c/em> Squash. It's a very autumnal ingredient. You can put it in cake, foams, all kinds of things.\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Villavelasquez:\u003c/em> Coconut, bourbon, persimmons. I ask my chefs to think about how the season tastes. I'm also very into garam masala right now.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Classic and Perfect, or Provocative but Flawed?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nGiven the chance to enjoy a perfectly made, perfectly simple pear tart, or to taste a more experimental dish that didn't quite work, which would they pick?\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Falkner:\u003c/em> Pastry chefs don't eat dessert! Steak or a pizza, that's you want at the end of the day.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What about you, Werner? Do you order dessert?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Werner:\u003c/em> Not unless the pastry chef sees me.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Only Villavelasquez admitted to dessert splurges, saving up to eat nothing but desserts—sometimes 4 or 5 in a sitting—at restaurants that intrigue him here or abroad. But all agreed that as creative artists interested in pushing, pulling and poking at the concept of the sweet course, they'd go for the flawed experiment every time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Corbett:\u003c/em> In a classic dessert, there's no tricks, nothing to hide. But for me right now the most exciting desserts are the ones that the most innovative and new.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Inspirations?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Falkner:\u003c/em> Song titles or lyrics. We've got a dessert now called \"Mesh and Lace.\" Sometimes the title comes first, like \"Burning Down the House\": you think, what would that be? Sometimes it's based on a gesture, something sculptural or conceptual, or wanting to create a texture that doesn't exist yet.\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Villavelasquez:\u003c/em> Asian and Japanese flavors and ingredients. There are a lot of innovative textures, ingredients, and spices that are unfamiliar here. Also, just putting 3 flavors out there and making them work.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>So, What's the Next Bacon?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Corbett:\u003c/em> Porcini syrup.\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Falkner:\u003c/em> Deeper salts. Olives.\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Werner:\u003c/em> Soy and miso.\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Villavelasquez:\u003c/em> I had a jasmine cupcake somewhere, and that led to a scone we're doing at Arlequin, with quince, jasmine, and earl grey tea. I'm thinking like a bartender these days, thinking about using floral syrups and waters like jasmine, violet, orange blossom. Lavender's used up. But in the end, it comes down to butter all the way.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Slideshow of State of Pastry in SF event: Photos by Shing Wong\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Now that you can't swing a puggle in this town without landing it face-first in someone's salted-caramel-gingerbread-bacon cupcake, what's the future of dessert? Four of the city's most innovative confectionaries got together last week to discuss the current State of Pastry in SF. ",
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"description": "Now that you can't swing a puggle in this town without landing it face-first in someone's salted-caramel-gingerbread-bacon cupcake, what's the future of dessert? Four of the city's most innovative confectionaries got together last week to discuss the current State of Pastry in SF. ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.flickr.com/photos/shingwong/4157066180/in/set-72157622805552011/\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-8733\" title=\"Commonwealth Club panel\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/12/cc-panel1.jpg\" alt=\"Commonwealth Club panel\" width=\"499\" height=\"330\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>The Commonwealth Club: The State of Pastry in SF INFORUM panel. Photo by Shing Wong.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It may be hard to believe, but there was a time—call it the 1990s—when people, even suave city folk like yourself, did not want salt in their caramels or bacon in their chocolate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Indeed, what did the fancy folk want? Having spent most of that decade as a restaurant critic, I can tell you: they wanted crème brûlée. Ginger crème brûlée. Lavender crème brûlée, introduced at Absinthe by then-pastry chef Clare Legas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then molten chocolate cake slipped in. First simply warm and a little gooey inside, it morphed slowly into a volcano of bubbling chocolate lava held back by only the thinnests of crusts. Near the end of the decade, the endless forward march of glassy-topped custards was briefly interrupted by a wiggle of panna cottas. (Surely, at Delfina, some bill is paid purely by sales of their buttermilk panna cotta, a dessert that's never been off the menu in ten years.) There were flirtations with Asian flavors, a little green tea there, a spark of yuzu here.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, of course, you can't swing a puggle in this town without landing it face-first in someone's salted-caramel-bacon-gingerbread cupcake. Salt and bacon seem here to stay, as does anything cute and bite-sized. Olive oil ice cream (or olive oil \u003cem>over\u003c/em> ice cream), curry sabayons, a creeping hint of soy and balsamic vinegar: savory has colonized our sweet, and that's the way we like it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That was the takeaway from last Tuesday's \u003ca href=\"http://www.commonwealthclub.org/INFORUM/about.html\">INFORUM\u003c/a> panel at the \u003ca href=\"http://tickets.commonwealthclub.org/\">Commonwealth Club\u003c/a>, where four of the city's most innovative pastry chefs gathered to discuss \u003cstrong>The State of Pastry in SF\u003c/strong>. On the panel were Luis Villavelasquez (\u003ca href=\"http://www.absinthe.com/\">Absinthe\u003c/a>), William Werner (\u003ca href=\"http://www.quincerestaurant.com\">Quince\u003c/a>), Elizabeth Falkner (\u003ca href=\"http://www.orsonsf.com\">Orson\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.citizencake.com\">Citizen Cake\u003c/a>), and Bill Corbett, recently of \u003ca href=\"http://www.michaelmina.net\">Michael Mina\u003c/a>. The questions tossed out by moderator Jessica Battalina, associate food editor of \u003ca href=\"http://www.7x7.com\">7x7\u003c/a>, were marshmallow-soft, but some interesting tidbits did arise.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On NYC vs. SF Pastry Styles:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem> Corbett:\u003c/em> I spent 5 years cooking in New York before I came to California. New York chefs can't rely on getting really excellent produce all the time, so it forces their creativity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(True: Would Momofuku's Christina Tosi be so obsessed with \u003ca href=\"http://nymag.com/restaurants/features/52411/\">cereal milk\u003c/a> if she had Betty Van Dyke's apricots in her backyard?)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Falkner:\u003c/em> Here, we don't have time to screw around with stuff that's only going to be here for a couple of weeks, like elephant-heart plums or Indian red peaches.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On Wooing Diners to Weirdness:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Corbett:\u003c/em> It helps to put it into a recognizable form. If I want to use beets, for example, I might use them in a red velvet cake, because everyone knows what that is.\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Villavelasquez:\u003c/em> In Japan, they use a lot of Okinawa blue potatoes, which are not well know here. But we do have sweet potato pie, so you could use them in something like that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, as artists as well as artisans, these chefs would love to play to an audience eager and willing for innovation. But then again, restaurants are businesses, and change comes at a price. Unfamiliar flavors tend to sneak via the fine print. At Quince, Werner gives his pear tart a bump with a side of rosemary ice cream. At Absinthe, the earthy sweetness of a carrot reduction plays off the mellow spice of a pumpkin custard, while at Orson, creole cream cheese and Tabasco gives a kick in the shins to sticky toffee pudding. Sometimes, though, two great tastes don't go great together. . .\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Epic Fails?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Corbett:\u003c/em> When I started at Michael Mina, I had lofty intentions—I was going to be the one to show customers how to break out. I did this chocolate plate that had a basil s'more, a tahini chocolate mousse. . . all that was fine until I put in this perfect cube of devil's food cake with black olives. Now, I love chocolate and olives, I think they go really well together. But I realized that when people saw what they thought was a piece of devil's food cake, they expected one thing. So, you can't make an unfamiliar thing look too familiar.\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Werner:\u003c/em> Anchovy croissants. It was a humbling experience.\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Falkner:\u003c/em> Trying to transport an elaborate wedding cake on a hot summer day in the backseat of an old Pinto with no A/C. I got to the Sherman House with the cake melted all over me, and they just looked at me, like, 'What kind of punk-ass are you'?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Current Obsessions?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Falkner:\u003c/em> Hydrocolloids! That's what I say to everyone these days. I feel like that guy in \u003cem>The Graduate\u003c/em>, telling Dustin Hoffman to get into plastics.\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Werner:\u003c/em> Persimmons, because I don't really like them. I'm forcing myself to use them and see what I can do.\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Corbett:\u003c/em> Squash. It's a very autumnal ingredient. You can put it in cake, foams, all kinds of things.\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Villavelasquez:\u003c/em> Coconut, bourbon, persimmons. I ask my chefs to think about how the season tastes. I'm also very into garam masala right now.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Classic and Perfect, or Provocative but Flawed?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nGiven the chance to enjoy a perfectly made, perfectly simple pear tart, or to taste a more experimental dish that didn't quite work, which would they pick?\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Falkner:\u003c/em> Pastry chefs don't eat dessert! Steak or a pizza, that's you want at the end of the day.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What about you, Werner? Do you order dessert?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Werner:\u003c/em> Not unless the pastry chef sees me.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Only Villavelasquez admitted to dessert splurges, saving up to eat nothing but desserts—sometimes 4 or 5 in a sitting—at restaurants that intrigue him here or abroad. But all agreed that as creative artists interested in pushing, pulling and poking at the concept of the sweet course, they'd go for the flawed experiment every time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Corbett:\u003c/em> In a classic dessert, there's no tricks, nothing to hide. But for me right now the most exciting desserts are the ones that the most innovative and new.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Inspirations?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Falkner:\u003c/em> Song titles or lyrics. We've got a dessert now called \"Mesh and Lace.\" Sometimes the title comes first, like \"Burning Down the House\": you think, what would that be? Sometimes it's based on a gesture, something sculptural or conceptual, or wanting to create a texture that doesn't exist yet.\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Villavelasquez:\u003c/em> Asian and Japanese flavors and ingredients. There are a lot of innovative textures, ingredients, and spices that are unfamiliar here. Also, just putting 3 flavors out there and making them work.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>So, What's the Next Bacon?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Corbett:\u003c/em> Porcini syrup.\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Falkner:\u003c/em> Deeper salts. Olives.\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Werner:\u003c/em> Soy and miso.\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Villavelasquez:\u003c/em> I had a jasmine cupcake somewhere, and that led to a scone we're doing at Arlequin, with quince, jasmine, and earl grey tea. I'm thinking like a bartender these days, thinking about using floral syrups and waters like jasmine, violet, orange blossom. Lavender's used up. But in the end, it comes down to butter all the way.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "Tasty Tattoos and the Chefs Who Sport Them",
"title": "Tasty Tattoos and the Chefs Who Sport Them",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/johnstewart.jpg\" alt=\"Zazu and Bovolo chef, John Stewart, displays his butchering diagram tattoo\" title=\"Zazu and Bovolo chef, John Stewart, displays his butchering diagram tattoo\" width=\"500\" height=\"341\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-8452\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Zazu and Bovolo chef, John Stewart, displays his butchering diagram tattoo\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The July issue of \u003cem>Food and Wine\u003c/em> garnered more than usual attention and press. On it, the \"Best New Chefs\" of 2009 were photographed in all their glory--and with all their tattoos. In the \"Letters to the Editor\" for the October issue of the magazine, a \u003ca href=\"http://www.eatmedaily.com/2009/09/reader-objects-to-chef-tattoos-on-the-cover-of-food-wine/\">reader objected\u003c/a>, noting, \"I don't recall subscribing to Sailor's Monthly.\" Moving on from print, as anyone who tunes in to \u003ca href=\"http://www.bravotv.com/top-chef\">Top Chef\u003c/a> can tell you, tattoos are a vibrant presence in each episode. In fact, Bravo has even put together a \u003ca href=\"http://www.bravotv.com/top-chef/top-chefs-all-tatted-up\">slideshow\u003c/a> displaying current contestant's ink. From small flowers to intricate sleeves, the aspiring Top Chefs show it all off. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Locally, the Bay Area could host a similar show. A great many chefs have tattoos, and interestingly (although not surprisingly)--many are food related. I set out to take a closer look and found that, while tattoos in general are often thought of as the ultimate form of self-expression, the following food personalities are proving that their alimentary tats are more than that. Part immortalizing a favorite dish, part business inspiration and contract, part celebrating personal success--they all prove that they're in it for the long run. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>A Business Contract--With Yourself\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nJake Godby, owner of \u003ca href=\"http://www.humphryslocombe.com/%7C_Home_%7C.html\">Humphry Slocombe\u003c/a> ice cream, isn't technically a chef--although he was a prominent pastry chef before deciding to open his innovative scoop shop. The inspiration behind the 31 flavors tattoo gracing his forearm was completely business related. Jake was having difficulties with PG&E as he worked to open the shop on Harrison St. Things were going slower than he would've liked and he was becoming more and more frustrated with each passing day. He knew that if he did something permanent, if he got a tattoo, it was a contract with himself that he'd stick with it: \"There's no turning back now.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/jakegodby1.jpg\" alt=\"Jake Godby, owner of Humphry Slocombe, shows off his ice cream cone tattoos\" title=\"Jake Godby, owner of Humphry Slocombe, shows off his ice cream cone tattoos\" width=\"315\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-8450\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Jake Godby, owner of Humphry Slocombe, shows off his ice cream cone tattoos\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Self-Identification and Expression\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nJake's ice cream tattoo isn't his only food-related ink. He also has a Campbell's soup can, the \u003ca href=\"http://adage.com/century/icon06.html\">Pillsbury doughboy\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Elsie_the_Cow\">Elsie the cow\u003c/a>. Jake was a double major in art and art history, so the Campbell's soup can is a melding of his interest in both. And the Pillsbury doughboy? Jake laughs, \"I'm a baker. It just fit.\" As for Elsie: he just liked her. For Jake, it was about identifying with an image that was important to him, and that spoke to how he saw himself. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/jakes-other-tats.jpg\" alt=\"Jake shows off the lesser-known tats\" title=\"Jake shows off the lesser-known tats\" width=\"450\" height=\"417\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-8451\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Jake shows off the lesser-known tats\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The necessity to express oneself in the kitchen is particularly strong for chefs. \"It's a nice way for people who spend an absurd amount of time in the back of a kitchen to express themselves. It's one way to really be yourself in the kitchen without annoying anyone,\" Richie Nakano, sous chef at \u003ca href=\"http://www.nopasf.com/\">NOPA\u003c/a>, explains. He goes on, saying \"The thing about cooking is it's an industry where you can wear your hair however you want, get tattoos...cooking's about the craft, not about your appearance.\" So while there is obviously a creative outlet with the food preparation and presentation, most chefs are stuck in a sweaty room for 12 hours a day with the same few folks. Tattoos are a way to stand out, make a statement, and express oneself in a profession where those things are reserved for the product rather than the individual.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Richie spoke a bit about his newest tattoo, a sleeve of the four seasons. He had fall and winter done about a month ago, spring's to come, and he just had the figs (Summer) outlined a few weeks ago. Part self-expression, part celebrating the vibrance of the seasons here in California, and a team effort with his beloved local tattoo artist whom he’s put a lot of trust in conceiving of it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/richie4seasons.jpg\" alt=\"Richie Nakano, sous chef at NOPA, and his Four Seasons Sleeve\" title=\"Richie Nakano, sous chef at NOPA, and his Four Seasons Sleeve\" width=\"450\" height=\"417\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-8453\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Richie Nakano, sous chef at NOPA, and his Four Seasons Sleeve\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Celebrating Forward Movement in the Kitchen\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nChad \u003cdel datetime=\"2009-11-23T19:42:04+00:00\">Lewis\u003c/del>Newton of \u003ca href=\"http://www.fishandfarmsf.com/\">Fish and Farm\u003c/a> got his first food tattoo to celebrate his moving up in the culinary world. Of it, he says \"I got the Oui Chef! / Non Chef! tat after I got my first Executive Chef job. I planned it years earlier when I was a young cook/sous chef. The inspiration was about my progression as a cook in this industry. When you are a young cook, with great respect and gusto you would always answer your superior Chefs with a thundering YES CHEF!!! Now, the cooks answer me with that exclamation.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I asked him what others may have expected him to get, he said: \"A picture of tongs! I do not use tongs in the kitchen as part of my French trained background. At one point I wanted to get a picture of tongs with a red line through it, saying in script below, Frenchie Poo.\" In talking to each chef, I learned quickly that tongs often signify a newbie cook (whereas more seasoned chefs can use more delicate, less clumsy instruments to handle their food). Chad's comment certainly illustrates how, for some cooks, their tattoo is almost like a trophy, a sign that they've made it and are celebrating in the best, most permanent way. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Richie Nakano has a similar story, and interestingly enough, he mentions tongs as well. Regarding the spoon tattoo on his forearm, he says \"It's an Oneida baguette spoon...they're everywhere, kind of your generic spoon. It was perfect for me because I was at the point in my career where my technique had developed and I was happy with it. I wasn't relying on tongs or other clumsy tools anymore.\" The spoon signified more skill, more finesse, a real coming into his own in the kitchen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/richie-collage1.jpg\" alt=\"Richie Nakano, sous chef at NOPA, displaying his Oneida spoon tattoo\" title=\"Richie Nakano, sous chef at NOPA, displaying his Oneida spoon tattoo\" width=\"450\" height=\"417\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-8448\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Richie Nakano, sous chef at NOPA, displaying his Oneida spoon tattoo\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I asked John Stewart of \u003ca href=\"http://www.zazurestaurant.com/\">Zazu\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.bovolorestaurant.com/\">Bovolo\u003c/a> to tell me about his butcher's diagram tattoo, he said that he'd worked with \u003ca href=\"http://www.mariobatali.com/\">Mario Batali\u003c/a> in New York and was living in Seattle at the time. Mario's dad had a place in Seattle called \u003ca href=\"http://www.salumicuredmeats.com/\">Salumi\u003c/a> (and it's still there, currently run by Mario's sister Gina). At the time, John was learning the craft and art of curing meats and began to build confidence and a skill set. \"The magic part of it went away and I started doing whole cuts--prosciutto, copas--and demonstrating more of a skill level and curing consistency...at that point, I became a fanatic.\" It certainly didn't happen overnight. In talking to John, I learned that curing something like prosciutto can take anywhere from 14-20 months, so there was a lot of patience and persistence involved. John had the business card from Salumi laying around and thought, \"I should get this on my arm!\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Making a Statement: Why I Do What I Do\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nAs for Chad Newton's other food tattoo, a pig and octopus with the words \u003cem>Break Bread\u003c/em> and \u003cem>Le Repretoire\u003c/em>, he says: \"\u003cem>Break bread\u003c/em> is not a religious term--it's about sharing a meal with loved ones. That's why I cook: to feed people in settings where families and friends can all share time together, share food together, eat family style, share stories, catch up on their events, just break bread... As for \u003cem>Le Repertoire\u003c/em>, that means a person's set of skills. For example, I am proud that I can butcher efficiently, make traditional pasta, and cook great tasting Vietnamese street food.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/chadcollage.jpg\" alt=\"Chad Newton shows off his two food-related tattoos\" title=\"Chad Newton shows off his two food-related tattoos\" width=\"500\" height=\"294\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-8449\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Chad Newton shows off his two food-related tattoos\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>John Stewart echoes this sentiment, appreciating the fact that he has an image that represents a timeless kind of thing: curing meats, something he truly believes in. \"It's a very traditional product. There's a shifting focus from mass-produced products back towards things actually produced by people.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Reactions \u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nMoms never like tattoos much. Chad and Richie can attest to that: \"It's always Mom. I have had tattoos since I was 17, but she still cries after every single one and tells me that it is bad for my career,\" Chad says. Richie says his mom's never fond of his tattoos, but tends to get over them pretty quickly. The other day though, she did warn him \"Just don't go tattooing your face!\" John’s mother asked to see the tattoo, but wasn't shocked. \"We do live in California, after all,\" he jokes. And Jake's family and friends seem universally accepting of the ice cream: \"Even my grandparents like it,\" he says. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>The Big, Bold, Inked Future\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nAs for future tattoos, Richie doesn't have anything planned right away. But in talking to his tattoo artist recently while getting the figs done, the wheels started turning. And although Jake wasn't sure what his next inked move would be, there were long moments of thought and hesitation. I got the sense that there would be another addition at some point. Chad plans to get a large tasting menu down his whole back. It would look like a large hand written menu, encompassing some of his favorite things to eat and cook--in proper tasting menu order. He'd also like to get a symmetrical half sleeve of the pig/octopus, but with different game birds and some more script. And John's looking to get a rooster in a similar 50's style inspired by his trip to Kauai and the plethora of roosters there. After researching this, John discovered that sailors often had tattoos of pigs and roosters because the animals were kept in boxes, so they floated during shipwrecks--a symbol of tenacity and survival. And in these changing and uncertain times, what more could a chef--and we, their faithful diners--ask for? \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Locally, the Bay Area could host a similar show. A great many chefs have tattoos, and interestingly (although not surprisingly)--many are food related. I set out to take a closer look and found that, while tattoos in general are often thought of as the ultimate form of self-expression, the following food personalities are proving that their alimentary tats are more than that. Part immortalizing a favorite dish, part business inspiration and contract, part celebrating personal success--they all prove that they're in it for the long run. ",
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"description": "Locally, the Bay Area could host a similar show. A great many chefs have tattoos, and interestingly (although not surprisingly)--many are food related. I set out to take a closer look and found that, while tattoos in general are often thought of as the ultimate form of self-expression, the following food personalities are proving that their alimentary tats are more than that. Part immortalizing a favorite dish, part business inspiration and contract, part celebrating personal success--they all prove that they're in it for the long run. ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/johnstewart.jpg\" alt=\"Zazu and Bovolo chef, John Stewart, displays his butchering diagram tattoo\" title=\"Zazu and Bovolo chef, John Stewart, displays his butchering diagram tattoo\" width=\"500\" height=\"341\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-8452\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Zazu and Bovolo chef, John Stewart, displays his butchering diagram tattoo\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The July issue of \u003cem>Food and Wine\u003c/em> garnered more than usual attention and press. On it, the \"Best New Chefs\" of 2009 were photographed in all their glory--and with all their tattoos. In the \"Letters to the Editor\" for the October issue of the magazine, a \u003ca href=\"http://www.eatmedaily.com/2009/09/reader-objects-to-chef-tattoos-on-the-cover-of-food-wine/\">reader objected\u003c/a>, noting, \"I don't recall subscribing to Sailor's Monthly.\" Moving on from print, as anyone who tunes in to \u003ca href=\"http://www.bravotv.com/top-chef\">Top Chef\u003c/a> can tell you, tattoos are a vibrant presence in each episode. In fact, Bravo has even put together a \u003ca href=\"http://www.bravotv.com/top-chef/top-chefs-all-tatted-up\">slideshow\u003c/a> displaying current contestant's ink. From small flowers to intricate sleeves, the aspiring Top Chefs show it all off. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Locally, the Bay Area could host a similar show. A great many chefs have tattoos, and interestingly (although not surprisingly)--many are food related. I set out to take a closer look and found that, while tattoos in general are often thought of as the ultimate form of self-expression, the following food personalities are proving that their alimentary tats are more than that. Part immortalizing a favorite dish, part business inspiration and contract, part celebrating personal success--they all prove that they're in it for the long run. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>A Business Contract--With Yourself\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nJake Godby, owner of \u003ca href=\"http://www.humphryslocombe.com/%7C_Home_%7C.html\">Humphry Slocombe\u003c/a> ice cream, isn't technically a chef--although he was a prominent pastry chef before deciding to open his innovative scoop shop. The inspiration behind the 31 flavors tattoo gracing his forearm was completely business related. Jake was having difficulties with PG&E as he worked to open the shop on Harrison St. Things were going slower than he would've liked and he was becoming more and more frustrated with each passing day. He knew that if he did something permanent, if he got a tattoo, it was a contract with himself that he'd stick with it: \"There's no turning back now.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/jakegodby1.jpg\" alt=\"Jake Godby, owner of Humphry Slocombe, shows off his ice cream cone tattoos\" title=\"Jake Godby, owner of Humphry Slocombe, shows off his ice cream cone tattoos\" width=\"315\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-8450\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Jake Godby, owner of Humphry Slocombe, shows off his ice cream cone tattoos\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Self-Identification and Expression\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nJake's ice cream tattoo isn't his only food-related ink. He also has a Campbell's soup can, the \u003ca href=\"http://adage.com/century/icon06.html\">Pillsbury doughboy\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Elsie_the_Cow\">Elsie the cow\u003c/a>. Jake was a double major in art and art history, so the Campbell's soup can is a melding of his interest in both. And the Pillsbury doughboy? Jake laughs, \"I'm a baker. It just fit.\" As for Elsie: he just liked her. For Jake, it was about identifying with an image that was important to him, and that spoke to how he saw himself. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/jakes-other-tats.jpg\" alt=\"Jake shows off the lesser-known tats\" title=\"Jake shows off the lesser-known tats\" width=\"450\" height=\"417\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-8451\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Jake shows off the lesser-known tats\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The necessity to express oneself in the kitchen is particularly strong for chefs. \"It's a nice way for people who spend an absurd amount of time in the back of a kitchen to express themselves. It's one way to really be yourself in the kitchen without annoying anyone,\" Richie Nakano, sous chef at \u003ca href=\"http://www.nopasf.com/\">NOPA\u003c/a>, explains. He goes on, saying \"The thing about cooking is it's an industry where you can wear your hair however you want, get tattoos...cooking's about the craft, not about your appearance.\" So while there is obviously a creative outlet with the food preparation and presentation, most chefs are stuck in a sweaty room for 12 hours a day with the same few folks. Tattoos are a way to stand out, make a statement, and express oneself in a profession where those things are reserved for the product rather than the individual.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Richie spoke a bit about his newest tattoo, a sleeve of the four seasons. He had fall and winter done about a month ago, spring's to come, and he just had the figs (Summer) outlined a few weeks ago. Part self-expression, part celebrating the vibrance of the seasons here in California, and a team effort with his beloved local tattoo artist whom he’s put a lot of trust in conceiving of it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/richie4seasons.jpg\" alt=\"Richie Nakano, sous chef at NOPA, and his Four Seasons Sleeve\" title=\"Richie Nakano, sous chef at NOPA, and his Four Seasons Sleeve\" width=\"450\" height=\"417\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-8453\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Richie Nakano, sous chef at NOPA, and his Four Seasons Sleeve\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Celebrating Forward Movement in the Kitchen\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nChad \u003cdel datetime=\"2009-11-23T19:42:04+00:00\">Lewis\u003c/del>Newton of \u003ca href=\"http://www.fishandfarmsf.com/\">Fish and Farm\u003c/a> got his first food tattoo to celebrate his moving up in the culinary world. Of it, he says \"I got the Oui Chef! / Non Chef! tat after I got my first Executive Chef job. I planned it years earlier when I was a young cook/sous chef. The inspiration was about my progression as a cook in this industry. When you are a young cook, with great respect and gusto you would always answer your superior Chefs with a thundering YES CHEF!!! Now, the cooks answer me with that exclamation.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I asked him what others may have expected him to get, he said: \"A picture of tongs! I do not use tongs in the kitchen as part of my French trained background. At one point I wanted to get a picture of tongs with a red line through it, saying in script below, Frenchie Poo.\" In talking to each chef, I learned quickly that tongs often signify a newbie cook (whereas more seasoned chefs can use more delicate, less clumsy instruments to handle their food). Chad's comment certainly illustrates how, for some cooks, their tattoo is almost like a trophy, a sign that they've made it and are celebrating in the best, most permanent way. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Richie Nakano has a similar story, and interestingly enough, he mentions tongs as well. Regarding the spoon tattoo on his forearm, he says \"It's an Oneida baguette spoon...they're everywhere, kind of your generic spoon. It was perfect for me because I was at the point in my career where my technique had developed and I was happy with it. I wasn't relying on tongs or other clumsy tools anymore.\" The spoon signified more skill, more finesse, a real coming into his own in the kitchen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/richie-collage1.jpg\" alt=\"Richie Nakano, sous chef at NOPA, displaying his Oneida spoon tattoo\" title=\"Richie Nakano, sous chef at NOPA, displaying his Oneida spoon tattoo\" width=\"450\" height=\"417\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-8448\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Richie Nakano, sous chef at NOPA, displaying his Oneida spoon tattoo\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I asked John Stewart of \u003ca href=\"http://www.zazurestaurant.com/\">Zazu\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.bovolorestaurant.com/\">Bovolo\u003c/a> to tell me about his butcher's diagram tattoo, he said that he'd worked with \u003ca href=\"http://www.mariobatali.com/\">Mario Batali\u003c/a> in New York and was living in Seattle at the time. Mario's dad had a place in Seattle called \u003ca href=\"http://www.salumicuredmeats.com/\">Salumi\u003c/a> (and it's still there, currently run by Mario's sister Gina). At the time, John was learning the craft and art of curing meats and began to build confidence and a skill set. \"The magic part of it went away and I started doing whole cuts--prosciutto, copas--and demonstrating more of a skill level and curing consistency...at that point, I became a fanatic.\" It certainly didn't happen overnight. In talking to John, I learned that curing something like prosciutto can take anywhere from 14-20 months, so there was a lot of patience and persistence involved. John had the business card from Salumi laying around and thought, \"I should get this on my arm!\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Making a Statement: Why I Do What I Do\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nAs for Chad Newton's other food tattoo, a pig and octopus with the words \u003cem>Break Bread\u003c/em> and \u003cem>Le Repretoire\u003c/em>, he says: \"\u003cem>Break bread\u003c/em> is not a religious term--it's about sharing a meal with loved ones. That's why I cook: to feed people in settings where families and friends can all share time together, share food together, eat family style, share stories, catch up on their events, just break bread... As for \u003cem>Le Repertoire\u003c/em>, that means a person's set of skills. For example, I am proud that I can butcher efficiently, make traditional pasta, and cook great tasting Vietnamese street food.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/chadcollage.jpg\" alt=\"Chad Newton shows off his two food-related tattoos\" title=\"Chad Newton shows off his two food-related tattoos\" width=\"500\" height=\"294\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-8449\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Chad Newton shows off his two food-related tattoos\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>John Stewart echoes this sentiment, appreciating the fact that he has an image that represents a timeless kind of thing: curing meats, something he truly believes in. \"It's a very traditional product. There's a shifting focus from mass-produced products back towards things actually produced by people.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Reactions \u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nMoms never like tattoos much. Chad and Richie can attest to that: \"It's always Mom. I have had tattoos since I was 17, but she still cries after every single one and tells me that it is bad for my career,\" Chad says. Richie says his mom's never fond of his tattoos, but tends to get over them pretty quickly. The other day though, she did warn him \"Just don't go tattooing your face!\" John’s mother asked to see the tattoo, but wasn't shocked. \"We do live in California, after all,\" he jokes. And Jake's family and friends seem universally accepting of the ice cream: \"Even my grandparents like it,\" he says. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>The Big, Bold, Inked Future\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nAs for future tattoos, Richie doesn't have anything planned right away. But in talking to his tattoo artist recently while getting the figs done, the wheels started turning. And although Jake wasn't sure what his next inked move would be, there were long moments of thought and hesitation. I got the sense that there would be another addition at some point. Chad plans to get a large tasting menu down his whole back. It would look like a large hand written menu, encompassing some of his favorite things to eat and cook--in proper tasting menu order. He'd also like to get a symmetrical half sleeve of the pig/octopus, but with different game birds and some more script. And John's looking to get a rooster in a similar 50's style inspired by his trip to Kauai and the plethora of roosters there. After researching this, John discovered that sailors often had tattoos of pigs and roosters because the animals were kept in boxes, so they floated during shipwrecks--a symbol of tenacity and survival. And in these changing and uncertain times, what more could a chef--and we, their faithful diners--ask for? \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cem>\"Have you tried the lamb brains?\" \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Well, it was just that sort of party. The lamb brains, so I was told, were simply smashing--like meaty custard, in the best possible way. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the lamb brains weren't the half of it. The outdoor tables at last weekend's first \u003ca href=\"http://www.artofthebutcher.com\">Primal Napa\u003c/a> event were a head-to-tail, guts-and-all celebration of going deep with meat. There were the strips of grilled beef heart, for starters, and a whole roasted Musquee de Provence squash stuffed with chunks of pork liver. Then slim slices of headcheese, unctuous slathers of \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2009/05/30/nduja-n-judah/\">nduja\u003c/a>, much salume, even entire smoke-blackened lambs' heads, complete with jutting teeth and curled, fibrous tongues. \"Yeah, just gnaw right on the jawbone,\" advised one chef-jacketed guy behind the table. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/primal1.jpg\" alt=\"Primal Napa - photo by Stacy Cahill\" title=\"Primal Napa - photo by Stacy Cahill\" width=\"500\" height=\"332\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-8187\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The setting was appropriately rustic, outside on a beautiful autumn afternoon, under the trees and up against the vines at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.chasecellars.com/\">Chase Cellars' Hayne\u003c/a> vineyard in Napa, with hay bales scattered and, for Napa, quite a young and stylish crowd. There was definitely money here, cool money with BMWs parked in the grass, strolling over for scoops of lamb brains and chunks of rare goat right off the bone. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/primal3.jpg\" alt=\"Chris Cosentino at Primal Napa - photo by Stacy Cahill\" title=\"Chris Cosentino at Primal Napa - photo by Stacy Cahill\" width=\"300\" height=\"450\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-8185\">Back in the hot zone, surrounded by smoking coals, piles of logs and a whole Mediterranean coastline of fresh rosemary branches was Mr. Meat himself, Incanto and Boccalone's\u003ca href=\"http://www.offalgood.com/\"> Chris Cosentino\u003c/a>, jogging from fire to fire in his flaming orange t-shirt emblazoned \"USDA Choice,\" his voice worn to a rasp. In fact, all the cooks seemed to be having a swell time, getting sweaty and grimy surrounded by fire and meat. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mopping \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Harissa\">harissa\u003c/a> marinade over a long spitted row of feet-on chickens, nuzzling a flat of eggs into a pillow of hot ash, angling an entire spread-eagled goat (furry hooves intact) over a pile of flaming coals: the concept may have been based in subsistence cooking, but the style was deep in the smoky flair that only flambeing can bring. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The mood was definitely gleeful--meat does that to people--and in a funny way, honest. There was no getting away from the fact that eating here meant eating something that once had a face, because that face, or at least the edible bits of it--the tongue, the cheeks, even the eyeballs--were probably right there on the table next to the legs or ribs or tenderloin. And the animals had a pedigree: ask any cook, and they could tell you where the meat they were roasting came from, who raised it and how. \u003cbr clear=\"all\"> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Elbowing up to the platter of slow-cooked pork \u003ca href=\"http://www.hudsonvineyards.com/hudson-ranch.html\">Hudson Ranch\u003c/a> pork belly (divine), one could eavesdrop on any number of serious discussions about heritage pig breeding. Get distracted for a few moments by the leather-and-chocolate Pinots from \u003ca href=\"http://www.hirschvineyards.com\">Hirsch Vineyards\u003c/a>, and the roasted goat legs would be all but picked clean, although a few succulent morsels could always be chiseled off and shared by the kind woman wielding a chef's knife on the other side of the table. This wasn't down-home (the highlights and sunglasses on display were much too expensive for that) but there weren't any waiters or coddling, either. In fact, you had to do a little begging just to score a little paper plate and skimpy napkin. Some of the meat was in bite-sized slices; some was simply hacked up and plattered, letting the hungry pull through the shreds and fat with eager hands and plastic forks. \u003cem>We cooked it,\u003c/em> the attitude seemed to be. \u003cem>You figure it out. \u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/primal4.jpg\" alt=\"Primal Napa - photo by Stacy Cahill\" title=\"Primal Napa - photo by Stacy Cahill\" width=\"500\" height=\"332\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-8184\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Up front were hands-on displays of rock-star butchering (a cross-coast trend recently chronicled in the New York Times under the headline \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2009/10/25/fashion/25meat.html\">Slaughterhouse Live\u003c/a>) with \u003ca href=\"http://www.fattedcalf.com/\">Fatted Calf\u003c/a> founder Taylor Boetticher whipping through a beef forequarter with deft strokes and cool aplomb. Neatly wiggling out the ball of a shoulder, he pointed out that this particular breakdown didn't require too much finesse, since all the meat was destined for sliders, a rough grind of aged meat and creamy fat made into mini-burgers for the hungry hordes. (Too true: with all the variety meats on display, the table handing out hot dogs and burgers was the one with the surging six-deep, hands-out crowd, right from the moment the patties hit the grill.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/primal2.jpg\" alt=\"Primal Napa - photo by Stacy Cahill\" title=\"Primal Napa - photo by Stacy Cahill\" width=\"500\" height=\"332\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-8186\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Not surprisingly, the list of participants read like a who's who of current carnivorishness: Fatted Calf, 4505 Meats, Boccalone, Avedano's, Perbacco, Star Meats...and Ubuntu? Wait, \u003cstrong>that\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://www.ubuntunapa.com\">Ubuntu\u003c/a>, Napa's famous yoga-studio/vegetarian restaurant, the place my vegan cousin and his new bride had a nearly religious experience over the cauliflower three ways? Thankfully, Ubuntu chef Jeremy Fox (not himself a vegetarian) joined the party to show that open fire-cooking can do wonderful things to vegetables, too. There were terra cotta pots brimming with Rancho Gordo beans in spicy broth, slippery whole roasted torpedo onions, and more. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As the sun slipped away and the strings of white lights lit up across the wine-pouring booths, the heavy hitters came out, finally ready after their hours in the hot zone, staked and salted, roasted and smoky. It was primal, and it was delicious. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sorry, \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2009/11/10/jonathan-safran-foer-video-interview-and-reading/\">Mr. Foer\u003c/a>. You may not eat it any more, but you know how good it can be. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003cem>Photos by Stacy Cahill\u003c/em>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "The lamb brains, I was told, were simply smashing. Like meaty custard, in the best possible way. But the lamb brains weren't the half of it. The outdoor tables at last weekend's first Primal Napa event were a head-to-tail, guts-and-all celebration of going deep with meat. ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cem>\"Have you tried the lamb brains?\" \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Well, it was just that sort of party. The lamb brains, so I was told, were simply smashing--like meaty custard, in the best possible way. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the lamb brains weren't the half of it. The outdoor tables at last weekend's first \u003ca href=\"http://www.artofthebutcher.com\">Primal Napa\u003c/a> event were a head-to-tail, guts-and-all celebration of going deep with meat. There were the strips of grilled beef heart, for starters, and a whole roasted Musquee de Provence squash stuffed with chunks of pork liver. Then slim slices of headcheese, unctuous slathers of \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2009/05/30/nduja-n-judah/\">nduja\u003c/a>, much salume, even entire smoke-blackened lambs' heads, complete with jutting teeth and curled, fibrous tongues. \"Yeah, just gnaw right on the jawbone,\" advised one chef-jacketed guy behind the table. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/primal1.jpg\" alt=\"Primal Napa - photo by Stacy Cahill\" title=\"Primal Napa - photo by Stacy Cahill\" width=\"500\" height=\"332\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-8187\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The setting was appropriately rustic, outside on a beautiful autumn afternoon, under the trees and up against the vines at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.chasecellars.com/\">Chase Cellars' Hayne\u003c/a> vineyard in Napa, with hay bales scattered and, for Napa, quite a young and stylish crowd. There was definitely money here, cool money with BMWs parked in the grass, strolling over for scoops of lamb brains and chunks of rare goat right off the bone. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/primal3.jpg\" alt=\"Chris Cosentino at Primal Napa - photo by Stacy Cahill\" title=\"Chris Cosentino at Primal Napa - photo by Stacy Cahill\" width=\"300\" height=\"450\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-8185\">Back in the hot zone, surrounded by smoking coals, piles of logs and a whole Mediterranean coastline of fresh rosemary branches was Mr. Meat himself, Incanto and Boccalone's\u003ca href=\"http://www.offalgood.com/\"> Chris Cosentino\u003c/a>, jogging from fire to fire in his flaming orange t-shirt emblazoned \"USDA Choice,\" his voice worn to a rasp. In fact, all the cooks seemed to be having a swell time, getting sweaty and grimy surrounded by fire and meat. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mopping \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Harissa\">harissa\u003c/a> marinade over a long spitted row of feet-on chickens, nuzzling a flat of eggs into a pillow of hot ash, angling an entire spread-eagled goat (furry hooves intact) over a pile of flaming coals: the concept may have been based in subsistence cooking, but the style was deep in the smoky flair that only flambeing can bring. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The mood was definitely gleeful--meat does that to people--and in a funny way, honest. There was no getting away from the fact that eating here meant eating something that once had a face, because that face, or at least the edible bits of it--the tongue, the cheeks, even the eyeballs--were probably right there on the table next to the legs or ribs or tenderloin. And the animals had a pedigree: ask any cook, and they could tell you where the meat they were roasting came from, who raised it and how. \u003cbr clear=\"all\"> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Elbowing up to the platter of slow-cooked pork \u003ca href=\"http://www.hudsonvineyards.com/hudson-ranch.html\">Hudson Ranch\u003c/a> pork belly (divine), one could eavesdrop on any number of serious discussions about heritage pig breeding. Get distracted for a few moments by the leather-and-chocolate Pinots from \u003ca href=\"http://www.hirschvineyards.com\">Hirsch Vineyards\u003c/a>, and the roasted goat legs would be all but picked clean, although a few succulent morsels could always be chiseled off and shared by the kind woman wielding a chef's knife on the other side of the table. This wasn't down-home (the highlights and sunglasses on display were much too expensive for that) but there weren't any waiters or coddling, either. In fact, you had to do a little begging just to score a little paper plate and skimpy napkin. Some of the meat was in bite-sized slices; some was simply hacked up and plattered, letting the hungry pull through the shreds and fat with eager hands and plastic forks. \u003cem>We cooked it,\u003c/em> the attitude seemed to be. \u003cem>You figure it out. \u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/primal4.jpg\" alt=\"Primal Napa - photo by Stacy Cahill\" title=\"Primal Napa - photo by Stacy Cahill\" width=\"500\" height=\"332\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-8184\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Up front were hands-on displays of rock-star butchering (a cross-coast trend recently chronicled in the New York Times under the headline \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2009/10/25/fashion/25meat.html\">Slaughterhouse Live\u003c/a>) with \u003ca href=\"http://www.fattedcalf.com/\">Fatted Calf\u003c/a> founder Taylor Boetticher whipping through a beef forequarter with deft strokes and cool aplomb. Neatly wiggling out the ball of a shoulder, he pointed out that this particular breakdown didn't require too much finesse, since all the meat was destined for sliders, a rough grind of aged meat and creamy fat made into mini-burgers for the hungry hordes. (Too true: with all the variety meats on display, the table handing out hot dogs and burgers was the one with the surging six-deep, hands-out crowd, right from the moment the patties hit the grill.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/primal2.jpg\" alt=\"Primal Napa - photo by Stacy Cahill\" title=\"Primal Napa - photo by Stacy Cahill\" width=\"500\" height=\"332\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-8186\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Not surprisingly, the list of participants read like a who's who of current carnivorishness: Fatted Calf, 4505 Meats, Boccalone, Avedano's, Perbacco, Star Meats...and Ubuntu? Wait, \u003cstrong>that\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://www.ubuntunapa.com\">Ubuntu\u003c/a>, Napa's famous yoga-studio/vegetarian restaurant, the place my vegan cousin and his new bride had a nearly religious experience over the cauliflower three ways? Thankfully, Ubuntu chef Jeremy Fox (not himself a vegetarian) joined the party to show that open fire-cooking can do wonderful things to vegetables, too. There were terra cotta pots brimming with Rancho Gordo beans in spicy broth, slippery whole roasted torpedo onions, and more. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As the sun slipped away and the strings of white lights lit up across the wine-pouring booths, the heavy hitters came out, finally ready after their hours in the hot zone, staked and salted, roasted and smoky. It was primal, and it was delicious. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sorry, \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2009/11/10/jonathan-safran-foer-video-interview-and-reading/\">Mr. Foer\u003c/a>. You may not eat it any more, but you know how good it can be. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003cem>Photos by Stacy Cahill\u003c/em>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Dude Food",
"title": "Dude Food",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/09/dudechefs500.jpg\" alt=\"dude chefs - Anthony Bourdain, Jamie Oliver, Bobby Flay\" title=\"dude chefs - Anthony Bourdain, Jamie Oliver, Bobby Flay\" width=\"500\" height=\"200\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7095\">\u003cbr>\nI suppose we can thank Anthony Bourdain for the stereotype of the wild man chef. In \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Kitchen-Confidential-Adventures-Culinary-Underbelly/dp/0060934913\">Kitchen Confidential\u003c/a>, his descriptions of \"whacked-out moral degenerates, dope fiends, refugees...and psychopaths\" haphazardly gobbling substances and screwing on flour sacks between shifts made cooking in a restaurant kitchen seem like both the worst and best job imaginable. He romanticized the depraved hangover-to-hangover existence of a clock-punching turner-and-burner even as he cast his world in a hyper-realistic light, widely disseminating a broad colorful portrait of the journeyman chef, specifically a male one, that quickly congealed in the public mind. He popularized an archetype young chefs may even aspire to emulate -- like fledgling rock singers copping Jagger's pout and other well-traveled performance tropes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In July 2009, Lev Grossman wrote of Bourdain in Time:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp> \"It was invisible then. Now we recognize it right away: this is Anthony Bourdain's world...He changed our whole cultural idea of what a kitchen is. Pre-Bourdain, it was a warm, cozy, maternal place. Now it's a profane, brutal, masculine crucible, where human frailty is rendered away like so much tasty bacon fat.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Of course, Kitchen Confidential didn't tell chefs anything they didn't already know. I also doubt the book would have been such a sensation had it not arrived at a time when cooking and eating were becoming popular fodder for entertainment on the Food Network, and chefs were more and more in the public eye. Today, celebrity chefs are brands -- swollen, polished amplifications of the managerial personalities they cultivated actually manning kitchens. I'm not trying to write a college paper here, but I have noticed (as have many others) that nearly all of the high-profile celebrity chefs are men. While female Food Network hosts -- like Rachael, Giada, and the newly minted \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodnetwork.com/ten-dollar-dinners-with-melissa-darabian/index.html\">Melissa\u003c/a>-- focus on saving time, shopping frugally, and feeding families -- clear extensions of the domestic arena -- male celebrity chefs focus on the craft itself, food for its own sake, cooking as an endless array of skills to acquire and adventures on which to embark in the carrying on of tradition and technique. They can approach food from an intellectual perspective. You learn about salumi. You study pizza. You get your education one cream-laden sauce at a time. You come of age in a French kitchen helmed by a venomous, insult-spewing maniac. You soak up abuse like a crostini, work awful hours, and get paid little to no money, but it's what you expect -- because you're an apprentice. You have to be man enough to take it. Some day, you'll be an executive chef yourself, and you'll have your own cadre of serfs to kick around. Until then, you mince onions and practice cursing. While women obviously pass through similar rites of passage in kitchens all over the world, in the realm of food entertainment, they're relegated to clipping coupons, dumbing down complicated dishes to satisfy some producer's market-tested vision of the American housewife, and attracting no shortage of she-can't-really-cook mockery from their male counterparts. Older female celebrity chefs -- like \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lidia_Bastianich\">Lidia Bastianich\u003c/a>, for example -- are motherly and comforting. They learned to cook from their mothers, and that's what they're sharing with you.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Everything on television is deliberately orchestrated, of course, but many of the common signifiers of male chefness -- the cursing, the drinking, the fighting, the screaming, the preoccupation with large pieces of meat -- whether expressed on camera, in memoirs, or reputation via third-person anecdotes -- endow a traditionally feminine role with coarse, conventionally masculine trappings. Producers want men to feel safe watching their shows. They don't want the women to appear shrill, unattractive, bossy, or otherwise threatening, or for the men in aprons to come off as effete. Over the course of six seasons of Bravo's \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Top_Chef\">Top Chef\u003c/a>, some of the show's most reviled male contestants have been wheedling, effeminate men. Likewise, when Padma Lakshmi, host of Top Chef, did \u003ca href=\"http://www.pilotguides.com/tv_shows/planet_food/food_guides/spain/index.php\">a tour of Spain\u003c/a> for the Food Network way back in early 2000s, she was not tripping around, Bourdain-like, shit-faced on sherry, taking bullfighting lessons, making subtle references to gastrointestinal distress. Instead, cameras zoomed in again and again as she slowly lowered strips of fine jamon into her mouth, oohing and cooing, her face bathed in a soft, warm lamp-lit glow. In one segment, she rode a horse, in another, a donkey. She did go to a bullfight, which the bull managed to win against all odds. Relieved, Lakshmi repaired to a nearby restaurant, where she ate the balls of one of the victorious bull's less fortunate comrades.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Men who have become famous cooking and eating in the public eye go out of their way to project a masculine image, and their carefully constructed personalities stud every crevice of the machismo spectrum. Ginger-coiffed Bobby Flay, proprietor of what \u003ca href=\"http://newyork.grubstreet.com/2009/09/the_20_biggest_chef_empires.html\">Grub Street\u003c/a> deems the 13th largest chef empire, is a wise-talking Jersey dude. He's richer than an oil tycoon but he has real friends. How do you know? They come over to his modest-seeming house for sausage party cook-outs. Sometimes, when he's smirking his way through a Throwdown episode, he looks like guys I've seen at bars late at night, red-faced, a little sweaty, leering at ladies between shots of Patron. 8th on Grub Street's list, Mario Batali, corpulent, jolly, and orange-clogged, is renowned for Falstaffian excesses. With his Tourettic interjecting of idiotic catch phrases, Emeril Lagasse, locked with Jean-Georges Vongerichten and Nobu Matsuhisa for #5 through #7, strikes me as a man who always speaks louder than he has to. With his Stray Cats-meets-Swingers-in-the-back-of-a-Sunglass Hut shtick, Guy Fieri apparently wowed audience members at this year's Great American Food and Music Festival in Mountain View with what Bay Area Bites contributor Stephanie Im \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/tag/guy-fieri/\">called a \"highly entertaining blowout performance complete with loud rock n'roll, gratuitous hot chicks on stage, big machinery, power tools, and pyrotechnics.\"\u003c/a> The owner of 27 restaurants around the world, Gordon Ramsey has \u003ca href=\"http://www.nypost.com/p/news/regional/ramsay_goose_getting_cooked_eKfNCXnMiUG9tHyZnSf4xO\">bounced over some financial ruts lately\u003c/a>, but Grub Street still has him in the #1 slot. His shows are crude spectacles of theater \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Antonin_Artaud\">Artaud\u003c/a>, would find unwatchable. Ramsey berates chefs, spits food on the floor, and picks fights. Off-screen, he's compulsively disrespectful, \u003ca href=\"http://www.lesbilicious.co.uk/tv-film/gordon-ramsay-offensive-to-every-australian-woman/\">particularly towards women\u003c/a>. Bourdain? Well, he doesn't actually cook much anymore, but he drinks a lot on No Reservations and makes a point of eating anything put in front of him, regardless of how strange or off-putting it may be. When he's not going shooting with \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2007/09/21/kill-it-and-grill-it/\">Ted Nugent\u003c/a>, he's a culturally sensitive daredevil -- an Evel Knievel of antacid-defying degustation. I can eat this gigantic sandwich, these bulbous eyeballs, and this disgusting warthog anus, he seems to say -- could you? When he and Eric Ripert venture back into the Les Halles kitchen to char beef and sauce sole for \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0vKQoezAk4I\">Season Four's \"Into the Fire\" episode\u003c/a>, they're in the war zone, brothers sloshing through the trenches, dunking freedom fries in spitting oil and hustling out steak au poivre as the foes -- the diners -- descend in overwhelming numbers. Interestingly, Jamie Oliver, who on several occasions has been the target of Bourdain's bullying, was the subject of a 2003 academic article published in the International Journal of Cultural Studies: \"Oliver's Twist: Leisure, Labor, and Domestic Masculinity in The Naked Chef\". The writer, Joanne Hollows of Nottingham Trent University in England, frames Oliver as a construction of the masculine domestic cook. According to Hollows, in his professional capacity, Oliver avoids associating cooking with labor; instead, it's a fun, leisurely, and \"recognizably manly\" activity. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You'll never see a man on a cooking show gasping and groaning over the way something tastes -- over-sensualizing their pleasure from food. \"Oh that's serious,\" Bourdain will say, wiping some beastly innards off his face, taking a swig of Heineken. Emeril and Fieri will bark as if they're at a ball game. Batali will explain why something is good, rather than simply express how happy he is to eat it. Some kinds of cooking -- grilling, artisanal curing, brawny offal-centric preparations -- tend to have hyper-masculine devotees. Molecular gastronomy -- food science, art, and fantasy in a delicious jumble -- is safe too -- because it's so dramatically removed from the drudgery of home-cooking. Every now and then, you see a gentle man cooking on television, and the effect is jarring. In March, celebrated \u003ca href=\"http://www.manresarestaurant.com/\">Manresa chef David Kinch\u003c/a> schooled Bobby Flay on Iron Chef. Even though his restaurant is a destination, the soft-spoken and terroir-enthused Kinch will never have product tie-ins -- commercial mayonnaise, kitchen gear, spice rubs, etc -- on Flay's level -- even in the unlikely event he wanted to in the first place. He'd rather build \"tide-pools\" of fresh shellfish and sea beans languishing in dashi-laced green tomato broth and go surfing in his spare time. One of my favorite cooking shows was \u003ca href=\"http://www.charlietrotters.com/\">Charlie Trotter\u003c/a>'s original Kitchen Sessions on PBS in the late 1990s. Amid a loose jazz soundtrack, Trotter very softly presented his thesis: cooking is a cycle of improvisations where time-tested techniques meet endlessly changing circumstances and opportunities for adjustment. The food was high-concept, challenging but within reach. As a host, he was a soothing presence -- murmuring vaguely poetic asides, often looking away from the camera, frequently indulging in tangential digressions appropriate to his show's statement of purpose. Trotter has been very successful, but his show, at least in that incarnation, didn't last more than a year or two. Ironically, Trotter actually made a cameo in the 1997 movie \u003ca href=\"http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0119738/\">My Best Friend's Wedding\u003c/a>, in which he convincingly played the stereotype of a blustery chef, bellowing at an assistant: \"I will kill your whole family if you don't get this right!\" It's a better joke now, twelve years later.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Everything on television is deliberately orchestrated, of course, but many of the common signifiers of male chefness -- the cursing, the drinking, the fighting, the screaming, the preoccupation with large pieces of meat -- whether expressed on camera, in memoirs, or reputation via third-person anecdotes -- endow a traditionally feminine role with coarse, conventionally masculine trappings. Producers want men to feel safe watching their shows. ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/09/dudechefs500.jpg\" alt=\"dude chefs - Anthony Bourdain, Jamie Oliver, Bobby Flay\" title=\"dude chefs - Anthony Bourdain, Jamie Oliver, Bobby Flay\" width=\"500\" height=\"200\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7095\">\u003cbr>\nI suppose we can thank Anthony Bourdain for the stereotype of the wild man chef. In \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Kitchen-Confidential-Adventures-Culinary-Underbelly/dp/0060934913\">Kitchen Confidential\u003c/a>, his descriptions of \"whacked-out moral degenerates, dope fiends, refugees...and psychopaths\" haphazardly gobbling substances and screwing on flour sacks between shifts made cooking in a restaurant kitchen seem like both the worst and best job imaginable. He romanticized the depraved hangover-to-hangover existence of a clock-punching turner-and-burner even as he cast his world in a hyper-realistic light, widely disseminating a broad colorful portrait of the journeyman chef, specifically a male one, that quickly congealed in the public mind. He popularized an archetype young chefs may even aspire to emulate -- like fledgling rock singers copping Jagger's pout and other well-traveled performance tropes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In July 2009, Lev Grossman wrote of Bourdain in Time:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp> \"It was invisible then. Now we recognize it right away: this is Anthony Bourdain's world...He changed our whole cultural idea of what a kitchen is. Pre-Bourdain, it was a warm, cozy, maternal place. Now it's a profane, brutal, masculine crucible, where human frailty is rendered away like so much tasty bacon fat.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Of course, Kitchen Confidential didn't tell chefs anything they didn't already know. I also doubt the book would have been such a sensation had it not arrived at a time when cooking and eating were becoming popular fodder for entertainment on the Food Network, and chefs were more and more in the public eye. Today, celebrity chefs are brands -- swollen, polished amplifications of the managerial personalities they cultivated actually manning kitchens. I'm not trying to write a college paper here, but I have noticed (as have many others) that nearly all of the high-profile celebrity chefs are men. While female Food Network hosts -- like Rachael, Giada, and the newly minted \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodnetwork.com/ten-dollar-dinners-with-melissa-darabian/index.html\">Melissa\u003c/a>-- focus on saving time, shopping frugally, and feeding families -- clear extensions of the domestic arena -- male celebrity chefs focus on the craft itself, food for its own sake, cooking as an endless array of skills to acquire and adventures on which to embark in the carrying on of tradition and technique. They can approach food from an intellectual perspective. You learn about salumi. You study pizza. You get your education one cream-laden sauce at a time. You come of age in a French kitchen helmed by a venomous, insult-spewing maniac. You soak up abuse like a crostini, work awful hours, and get paid little to no money, but it's what you expect -- because you're an apprentice. You have to be man enough to take it. Some day, you'll be an executive chef yourself, and you'll have your own cadre of serfs to kick around. Until then, you mince onions and practice cursing. While women obviously pass through similar rites of passage in kitchens all over the world, in the realm of food entertainment, they're relegated to clipping coupons, dumbing down complicated dishes to satisfy some producer's market-tested vision of the American housewife, and attracting no shortage of she-can't-really-cook mockery from their male counterparts. Older female celebrity chefs -- like \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lidia_Bastianich\">Lidia Bastianich\u003c/a>, for example -- are motherly and comforting. They learned to cook from their mothers, and that's what they're sharing with you.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Everything on television is deliberately orchestrated, of course, but many of the common signifiers of male chefness -- the cursing, the drinking, the fighting, the screaming, the preoccupation with large pieces of meat -- whether expressed on camera, in memoirs, or reputation via third-person anecdotes -- endow a traditionally feminine role with coarse, conventionally masculine trappings. Producers want men to feel safe watching their shows. They don't want the women to appear shrill, unattractive, bossy, or otherwise threatening, or for the men in aprons to come off as effete. Over the course of six seasons of Bravo's \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Top_Chef\">Top Chef\u003c/a>, some of the show's most reviled male contestants have been wheedling, effeminate men. Likewise, when Padma Lakshmi, host of Top Chef, did \u003ca href=\"http://www.pilotguides.com/tv_shows/planet_food/food_guides/spain/index.php\">a tour of Spain\u003c/a> for the Food Network way back in early 2000s, she was not tripping around, Bourdain-like, shit-faced on sherry, taking bullfighting lessons, making subtle references to gastrointestinal distress. Instead, cameras zoomed in again and again as she slowly lowered strips of fine jamon into her mouth, oohing and cooing, her face bathed in a soft, warm lamp-lit glow. In one segment, she rode a horse, in another, a donkey. She did go to a bullfight, which the bull managed to win against all odds. Relieved, Lakshmi repaired to a nearby restaurant, where she ate the balls of one of the victorious bull's less fortunate comrades.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Men who have become famous cooking and eating in the public eye go out of their way to project a masculine image, and their carefully constructed personalities stud every crevice of the machismo spectrum. Ginger-coiffed Bobby Flay, proprietor of what \u003ca href=\"http://newyork.grubstreet.com/2009/09/the_20_biggest_chef_empires.html\">Grub Street\u003c/a> deems the 13th largest chef empire, is a wise-talking Jersey dude. He's richer than an oil tycoon but he has real friends. How do you know? They come over to his modest-seeming house for sausage party cook-outs. Sometimes, when he's smirking his way through a Throwdown episode, he looks like guys I've seen at bars late at night, red-faced, a little sweaty, leering at ladies between shots of Patron. 8th on Grub Street's list, Mario Batali, corpulent, jolly, and orange-clogged, is renowned for Falstaffian excesses. With his Tourettic interjecting of idiotic catch phrases, Emeril Lagasse, locked with Jean-Georges Vongerichten and Nobu Matsuhisa for #5 through #7, strikes me as a man who always speaks louder than he has to. With his Stray Cats-meets-Swingers-in-the-back-of-a-Sunglass Hut shtick, Guy Fieri apparently wowed audience members at this year's Great American Food and Music Festival in Mountain View with what Bay Area Bites contributor Stephanie Im \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/tag/guy-fieri/\">called a \"highly entertaining blowout performance complete with loud rock n'roll, gratuitous hot chicks on stage, big machinery, power tools, and pyrotechnics.\"\u003c/a> The owner of 27 restaurants around the world, Gordon Ramsey has \u003ca href=\"http://www.nypost.com/p/news/regional/ramsay_goose_getting_cooked_eKfNCXnMiUG9tHyZnSf4xO\">bounced over some financial ruts lately\u003c/a>, but Grub Street still has him in the #1 slot. His shows are crude spectacles of theater \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Antonin_Artaud\">Artaud\u003c/a>, would find unwatchable. Ramsey berates chefs, spits food on the floor, and picks fights. Off-screen, he's compulsively disrespectful, \u003ca href=\"http://www.lesbilicious.co.uk/tv-film/gordon-ramsay-offensive-to-every-australian-woman/\">particularly towards women\u003c/a>. Bourdain? Well, he doesn't actually cook much anymore, but he drinks a lot on No Reservations and makes a point of eating anything put in front of him, regardless of how strange or off-putting it may be. When he's not going shooting with \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2007/09/21/kill-it-and-grill-it/\">Ted Nugent\u003c/a>, he's a culturally sensitive daredevil -- an Evel Knievel of antacid-defying degustation. I can eat this gigantic sandwich, these bulbous eyeballs, and this disgusting warthog anus, he seems to say -- could you? When he and Eric Ripert venture back into the Les Halles kitchen to char beef and sauce sole for \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0vKQoezAk4I\">Season Four's \"Into the Fire\" episode\u003c/a>, they're in the war zone, brothers sloshing through the trenches, dunking freedom fries in spitting oil and hustling out steak au poivre as the foes -- the diners -- descend in overwhelming numbers. Interestingly, Jamie Oliver, who on several occasions has been the target of Bourdain's bullying, was the subject of a 2003 academic article published in the International Journal of Cultural Studies: \"Oliver's Twist: Leisure, Labor, and Domestic Masculinity in The Naked Chef\". The writer, Joanne Hollows of Nottingham Trent University in England, frames Oliver as a construction of the masculine domestic cook. According to Hollows, in his professional capacity, Oliver avoids associating cooking with labor; instead, it's a fun, leisurely, and \"recognizably manly\" activity. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You'll never see a man on a cooking show gasping and groaning over the way something tastes -- over-sensualizing their pleasure from food. \"Oh that's serious,\" Bourdain will say, wiping some beastly innards off his face, taking a swig of Heineken. Emeril and Fieri will bark as if they're at a ball game. Batali will explain why something is good, rather than simply express how happy he is to eat it. Some kinds of cooking -- grilling, artisanal curing, brawny offal-centric preparations -- tend to have hyper-masculine devotees. Molecular gastronomy -- food science, art, and fantasy in a delicious jumble -- is safe too -- because it's so dramatically removed from the drudgery of home-cooking. Every now and then, you see a gentle man cooking on television, and the effect is jarring. In March, celebrated \u003ca href=\"http://www.manresarestaurant.com/\">Manresa chef David Kinch\u003c/a> schooled Bobby Flay on Iron Chef. Even though his restaurant is a destination, the soft-spoken and terroir-enthused Kinch will never have product tie-ins -- commercial mayonnaise, kitchen gear, spice rubs, etc -- on Flay's level -- even in the unlikely event he wanted to in the first place. He'd rather build \"tide-pools\" of fresh shellfish and sea beans languishing in dashi-laced green tomato broth and go surfing in his spare time. One of my favorite cooking shows was \u003ca href=\"http://www.charlietrotters.com/\">Charlie Trotter\u003c/a>'s original Kitchen Sessions on PBS in the late 1990s. Amid a loose jazz soundtrack, Trotter very softly presented his thesis: cooking is a cycle of improvisations where time-tested techniques meet endlessly changing circumstances and opportunities for adjustment. The food was high-concept, challenging but within reach. As a host, he was a soothing presence -- murmuring vaguely poetic asides, often looking away from the camera, frequently indulging in tangential digressions appropriate to his show's statement of purpose. Trotter has been very successful, but his show, at least in that incarnation, didn't last more than a year or two. Ironically, Trotter actually made a cameo in the 1997 movie \u003ca href=\"http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0119738/\">My Best Friend's Wedding\u003c/a>, in which he convincingly played the stereotype of a blustery chef, bellowing at an assistant: \"I will kill your whole family if you don't get this right!\" It's a better joke now, twelve years later.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "SF Chefs. Food. Wine. Highlight Reel",
"title": "SF Chefs. Food. Wine. Highlight Reel",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/sf-chefs-8609-opening-ribbon-cutting.jpg\" alt=\"SF Chefs.Food.Wine. Ribbon Cutting\" title=\"SF Chefs.Food.Wine. Ribbon Cutting\" width=\"444\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5872\">\u003cbr>\n\u003ci>SF Chefs. Food. Wine. Ribbon Cutting: Linda Lim, Mayor Gavin Newsom, Kevin Westlye, Tyler Florence\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To quote Mayor Gavin Newsom, \"Aspen, eat your heart out.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>An epic event 2 ½ years in the making, \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfchefsfoodwine.com/\">SF Chefs. Food. Wine.\u003c/a> was like a food-lover's Disneyland with over 200 of the Bay Area's finest chefs, 450 wineries, and \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2009/08/09/cocktail-culture-at-sf-chefs-food-wine/\">mixologists\u003c/a> aplenty strutting their stuff. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Over the past four days, Union Square was transformed into a playground of tastings, seminars, and demonstrations from a who's who list of culinary legends, rising stars, artisans, and experts. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/sf-chefs-80909-view-from-the-top-thomas-keller-charles-phan-douglas-keane.jpg\" alt=\"SF Chefs Charles Phan, Thomas Keller, Douglas Keane\" title=\"SF Chefs Charles Phan, Thomas Keller, Douglas Keane\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5885\">\u003cbr>\n\u003ci>View from the top: Charles Phan, Thomas Keller, Douglas Keane\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/sf-chefs-8809-tasting-tent-sara-moulton-cindy-pawlcyn.jpg\" alt=\"SF Chefs Sara Moulton and Cindy Pawclyn\" title=\"SF Chefs Sara Moulton and Cindy Pawclyn\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5881\">\u003cbr>\n\u003ci>Sara Moulton and Cindy Pawlcyn\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/sf-chefs-8709-tasting-tent-martin-yan.jpg\" alt=\"Sf Chefs Martin Yan\" title=\"Sf Chefs Martin Yan\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5886\">\u003cbr>\n\u003ci>Martin Yan, Yan Can Cook\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/sf-chefs-8809-as-seen-on-tv-jennifer-biesty-ryan-scott.jpg\" alt=\"SF Chefs Jennifer Biesty and Ryan Scott\" title=\"SF Chefs Jennifer Biesty and Ryan Scott\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5876\">\u003cbr>\n\u003ci>Top Cheftestants Jennifer Biesty and Ryan Scott\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It sometimes feel like a blessing and a curse to live in a city with so many amazing restaurants to try because let's face it, who can afford to try them all? One can read about them, drool over descriptions and photos of them, and then place them on an ever-growing bucket list of places to try. The Grand Tasting Tent at \u003cstrong>SF Chefs\u003c/strong> provided the rare opportunity to hone that list, allowing participants to really taste, touch, see, and feel for themselves, a sliver of what some of these heralded restaurants are all about. The air was electric and the excitement palpable, as the wine flowed and the \u003ca href=\"http://lickmyspoon.com/sfeats/sf-chefs-food-wine-highlight-reel/#more-3396\">bites\u003c/a> were dished out. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/sf-chefs-8609-opening-moss-room-monterey-squid-3.jpg\" alt=\"SF Chefs Moss Room Monterey Squid\" title=\"SF Chefs Moss Room Monterey Squid\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-5870\">\u003cbr>\n\u003ci>Monterey Squid, Chef Justin Simoneaux, Moss Room \u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/sf-chefs-8709-tasting-tent-lemongrass-thai-green-wrap.jpg\" alt=\"SF Chefs Lemongrass Thai Green Wrap\" title=\"SF Chefs Lemongrass Thai Green Wrap\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5891\">\u003cbr>\n\u003ci>Thai Wrap, Chef Toi Sawatdee, Lemongrass Thai Cuisine\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was interesting to see the chefs do riffs on many of the same ingredients that are in peak season right now: corn, heirloom tomatoes, melons, figs, and refreshing preparations like gazpachos and ceviches. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/sf-chefs-8809-tasting-tent-cortez-brulee-fig.jpg\" alt=\"SF Chefs Cortez bruleed fig\" title=\"SF Chefs Cortez bruleed fig\" width=\"333\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5892\">\u003cbr>\n\u003ci>Bruleed Fig with Kaffir Lime Oil and Vanilla Salt, Chef Jenn Puccio, Cortez\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And, there was no shortage of parties…all benefiting good causes of course: the \u003ca href=\"http://www.ggra.org/default.aspx\">Golden Gate Restaurant Association Scholarship Foundation\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.mowaa.org/Page.aspx?pid=183\">Meals on Wheels\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.openhand.org/\">Project Open Hand\u003c/a>, and the \u003ca href=\"http://www.sffoodbank.org/\">San Francisco Food Bank\u003c/a> (a member of Feeding America). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Thursday night reunited Rising Star Chefs and Bar Stars named by the San Francisco Chronicle, and a special dinner prepared by Arnold Eric Wong (E&O Trading Co.), Charles Phan (The Slanted Door/Heaven's Dog), and Martin Yan (Yan Can Cook). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Friday night honored America's Culinary Pioneers, Emily Luchetti (Farallon/Waterbar), Judy Rodgers (Zuni Café), Patricia Unterman (Hayes Street Grill), Joyce Goldstein (author and restaurateur), and Chuck Williams (Williams-Sonoma). There was also Out in the Fog, a celebration of the diverse LGBT community, at Elizabeth Falkner's Orson. It was chic, it was sexy, and it had a giant projection of Julia baking a cake on the wall. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Party time went strong through Saturday night, and the tasting tent was bumping with DJ Chef Hubert Keller laying down some beats at the Urban BBQ. Rock Star. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/sf-chefs-8809-urban-bbq-dj-hubert-keller.jpg\" alt=\"SF Chefs DJ Hubert Keller\" title=\"SF Chefs DJ Hubert Keller\" width=\"333\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5883\">\u003cbr>\n\u003ci>DJ Chef Hubert Keller\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>God forbid that dancing put anyone in a negative calorie count. The night continued at a Chocolate Enchantment after-party, complete with a floor to ceiling spinning display of chocolate decadence. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/sf-chefs-8809-chocolate-enchantment.jpg\" alt=\"SF Chefs chocolate enchantment\" title=\"SF Chefs chocolate enchantment\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5877\">\u003cbr>\n\u003ci>SF Chefs chocolate enchantment\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This weekend's festivities were a true celebration of the unique culinary spirit of San Francisco, bringing together a community of both industry and non-industry people through a common love of food. It was a treat to have executive chefs live and in person, serving their dishes and chatting about their food, or seeing them interact with one another and catching a glimpse of that intriguing \"chef's world\" that has captured our imagination. We are a city that loves our food, and by direct association, honors the craftsmen and -women who bring joy through food. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>SF Chefs. Food. Wine.\u003c/strong> hit on a winning combination of accessibility to hometown celeb-status chefs, utterly delicious food, fine wine, education, and awareness of important issues in food politics. It was fun, multi-faceted, and full of passion. It was, in a nutshell, San Francisco. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/sf-chefs-8609-bread-montage-trolley.jpg\" alt=\"SF Chefs Bread Montage Trolley Car\" title=\"SF Chefs Bread Montage Trolley Car\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5864\">\u003cbr>\n\u003ci>Ding-ding\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/sf-chefs-8609-opening-ribbon-cutting.jpg\" alt=\"SF Chefs.Food.Wine. Ribbon Cutting\" title=\"SF Chefs.Food.Wine. Ribbon Cutting\" width=\"444\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5872\">\u003cbr>\n\u003ci>SF Chefs. Food. Wine. Ribbon Cutting: Linda Lim, Mayor Gavin Newsom, Kevin Westlye, Tyler Florence\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To quote Mayor Gavin Newsom, \"Aspen, eat your heart out.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>An epic event 2 ½ years in the making, \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfchefsfoodwine.com/\">SF Chefs. Food. Wine.\u003c/a> was like a food-lover's Disneyland with over 200 of the Bay Area's finest chefs, 450 wineries, and \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2009/08/09/cocktail-culture-at-sf-chefs-food-wine/\">mixologists\u003c/a> aplenty strutting their stuff. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Over the past four days, Union Square was transformed into a playground of tastings, seminars, and demonstrations from a who's who list of culinary legends, rising stars, artisans, and experts. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/sf-chefs-80909-view-from-the-top-thomas-keller-charles-phan-douglas-keane.jpg\" alt=\"SF Chefs Charles Phan, Thomas Keller, Douglas Keane\" title=\"SF Chefs Charles Phan, Thomas Keller, Douglas Keane\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5885\">\u003cbr>\n\u003ci>View from the top: Charles Phan, Thomas Keller, Douglas Keane\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/sf-chefs-8809-tasting-tent-sara-moulton-cindy-pawlcyn.jpg\" alt=\"SF Chefs Sara Moulton and Cindy Pawclyn\" title=\"SF Chefs Sara Moulton and Cindy Pawclyn\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5881\">\u003cbr>\n\u003ci>Sara Moulton and Cindy Pawlcyn\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/sf-chefs-8709-tasting-tent-martin-yan.jpg\" alt=\"Sf Chefs Martin Yan\" title=\"Sf Chefs Martin Yan\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5886\">\u003cbr>\n\u003ci>Martin Yan, Yan Can Cook\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/sf-chefs-8809-as-seen-on-tv-jennifer-biesty-ryan-scott.jpg\" alt=\"SF Chefs Jennifer Biesty and Ryan Scott\" title=\"SF Chefs Jennifer Biesty and Ryan Scott\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5876\">\u003cbr>\n\u003ci>Top Cheftestants Jennifer Biesty and Ryan Scott\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It sometimes feel like a blessing and a curse to live in a city with so many amazing restaurants to try because let's face it, who can afford to try them all? One can read about them, drool over descriptions and photos of them, and then place them on an ever-growing bucket list of places to try. The Grand Tasting Tent at \u003cstrong>SF Chefs\u003c/strong> provided the rare opportunity to hone that list, allowing participants to really taste, touch, see, and feel for themselves, a sliver of what some of these heralded restaurants are all about. The air was electric and the excitement palpable, as the wine flowed and the \u003ca href=\"http://lickmyspoon.com/sfeats/sf-chefs-food-wine-highlight-reel/#more-3396\">bites\u003c/a> were dished out. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/sf-chefs-8609-opening-moss-room-monterey-squid-3.jpg\" alt=\"SF Chefs Moss Room Monterey Squid\" title=\"SF Chefs Moss Room Monterey Squid\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-5870\">\u003cbr>\n\u003ci>Monterey Squid, Chef Justin Simoneaux, Moss Room \u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/sf-chefs-8709-tasting-tent-lemongrass-thai-green-wrap.jpg\" alt=\"SF Chefs Lemongrass Thai Green Wrap\" title=\"SF Chefs Lemongrass Thai Green Wrap\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5891\">\u003cbr>\n\u003ci>Thai Wrap, Chef Toi Sawatdee, Lemongrass Thai Cuisine\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was interesting to see the chefs do riffs on many of the same ingredients that are in peak season right now: corn, heirloom tomatoes, melons, figs, and refreshing preparations like gazpachos and ceviches. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/sf-chefs-8809-tasting-tent-cortez-brulee-fig.jpg\" alt=\"SF Chefs Cortez bruleed fig\" title=\"SF Chefs Cortez bruleed fig\" width=\"333\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5892\">\u003cbr>\n\u003ci>Bruleed Fig with Kaffir Lime Oil and Vanilla Salt, Chef Jenn Puccio, Cortez\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And, there was no shortage of parties…all benefiting good causes of course: the \u003ca href=\"http://www.ggra.org/default.aspx\">Golden Gate Restaurant Association Scholarship Foundation\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.mowaa.org/Page.aspx?pid=183\">Meals on Wheels\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.openhand.org/\">Project Open Hand\u003c/a>, and the \u003ca href=\"http://www.sffoodbank.org/\">San Francisco Food Bank\u003c/a> (a member of Feeding America). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Thursday night reunited Rising Star Chefs and Bar Stars named by the San Francisco Chronicle, and a special dinner prepared by Arnold Eric Wong (E&O Trading Co.), Charles Phan (The Slanted Door/Heaven's Dog), and Martin Yan (Yan Can Cook). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Friday night honored America's Culinary Pioneers, Emily Luchetti (Farallon/Waterbar), Judy Rodgers (Zuni Café), Patricia Unterman (Hayes Street Grill), Joyce Goldstein (author and restaurateur), and Chuck Williams (Williams-Sonoma). There was also Out in the Fog, a celebration of the diverse LGBT community, at Elizabeth Falkner's Orson. It was chic, it was sexy, and it had a giant projection of Julia baking a cake on the wall. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Party time went strong through Saturday night, and the tasting tent was bumping with DJ Chef Hubert Keller laying down some beats at the Urban BBQ. Rock Star. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/sf-chefs-8809-urban-bbq-dj-hubert-keller.jpg\" alt=\"SF Chefs DJ Hubert Keller\" title=\"SF Chefs DJ Hubert Keller\" width=\"333\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5883\">\u003cbr>\n\u003ci>DJ Chef Hubert Keller\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>God forbid that dancing put anyone in a negative calorie count. The night continued at a Chocolate Enchantment after-party, complete with a floor to ceiling spinning display of chocolate decadence. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/sf-chefs-8809-chocolate-enchantment.jpg\" alt=\"SF Chefs chocolate enchantment\" title=\"SF Chefs chocolate enchantment\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5877\">\u003cbr>\n\u003ci>SF Chefs chocolate enchantment\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This weekend's festivities were a true celebration of the unique culinary spirit of San Francisco, bringing together a community of both industry and non-industry people through a common love of food. It was a treat to have executive chefs live and in person, serving their dishes and chatting about their food, or seeing them interact with one another and catching a glimpse of that intriguing \"chef's world\" that has captured our imagination. We are a city that loves our food, and by direct association, honors the craftsmen and -women who bring joy through food. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>SF Chefs. Food. Wine.\u003c/strong> hit on a winning combination of accessibility to hometown celeb-status chefs, utterly delicious food, fine wine, education, and awareness of important issues in food politics. It was fun, multi-faceted, and full of passion. It was, in a nutshell, San Francisco. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/sf-chefs-8609-bread-montage-trolley.jpg\" alt=\"SF Chefs Bread Montage Trolley Car\" title=\"SF Chefs Bread Montage Trolley Car\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5864\">\u003cbr>\n\u003ci>Ding-ding\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Cocktail Culture at SF Chefs. Food. Wine",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/cocktails500.jpg\" alt=\"cocktails\" title=\"cocktails\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5846\">\u003cbr>\n10:30 a.m. on a weekday morning is not my usual cocktail hour. But with a cheerful \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfchefsfoodwine.com/\">SF Chefs. Food. Wine\u003c/a> volunteer saying \"Breakfast is served!\" as he placed a cute pink drink in front of me, well, what could I do? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was, after all, educational. The drink was a raspberry rum daisy, made with white rum, lemon, and raspberries, an olden-days cocktail made artisanally up-to-date through the use of small-batch Caribbean-style Baptiste rum and a locally made fruit syrup sweetened with raw cane sugar and thickened with gum arabic, that secret weapon of molecular gastronomy. And the occasion was Cocktails Get Into the Mix , an exploration of the past and present state of West Coast cocktail culture, moderated by \u003ca href=\"http://www.alcademics.com\">Alcademics\u003c/a> editor Camper English. In conversation with English was Duggan McDonnell of Cantina and Thad Vogler of the upcoming Bar Agricole. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Drawing a contrast between the technique-obsessed, traditionalist, authenticity-driven New York style of places like Milk and Honey, Death & Co. and the more free-wheeling, flavor-inspired California vibe, Duggan laughed, admitting, \"We're more of a hot mess behind the bar.\" But both Vogler and McDonnell gave New York City its props, saying they'd both learned a tremendous amount about how even the simplest decisions--what sort of ice to use, whether to double-strain (using a cocktail strainer first, a fine tea strainer second)--can make a dramatic difference in the final result. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But, much like our restaurants, the current West Coast cocktail scene is driven by the extensive, year-round availability of amazing produce. \"We eat and drink incredibly well here, we're tasting things constantly,\" noted McDonnell, who connects this vibrant, terrior-driven food culture with the rise in inventive, market-driven cocktail menus. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These drinks may look simple, but much of the work happens after hours, with bartenders simmering their own herb- or spice-infused syrups, amassing collections of quirky amari (the bitter digestive liqueurs beloved by true cocktail geeks), even growing (or bartering for) herbs, fruits, or seasonings. For bartenders less interested in getting in touch with their inner chef, there's \u003ca href=\"http://www.smallhandfoods.com\">Small Hand Foods\u003c/a> run by Jennifer Colliau, a bartender at the Slanted Door, whose Berkeley-based company creates \"classic ingredients for pre-prohibition cocktails,\" including grenadine, gum syrup, orgeat, and pineapple and raspberry syrups. All are made in small batches using raw cane sugar (no corn syrup) and no artificial ingredients. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As the group of us sipped our rosy daisies (flavored with Colliau's raspberry gum syrup), Vogler pointed out the difficulty of sourcing spirits that haven't come though the big industrial distillers. Even small-batch labels often buy their base spirit--neutral alcohols usually derived from grain--from big producers, then redistill, infuse and flavor it to their own specifications. This, he noted, was behind the simple but surprisingly \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/blogs/mbauer/legacycomments?blogid=26&entry_id=29001\">inflammatory decision\u003c/a> of Oakland's Camino restaurant to yank vodka from their bar menu, instead carrying only a small selection of spirits and seasonal ingredients. (They've since found a small distillery that meets their standards.) When California-grown limes weren't available, the bar used lemons. This caused quite a stir in the press and blogosphere around town, as diners happy to dig into free-range rabbit and sustainable sardines were incensed at not being able to order their usual vodka tonic. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You have to throw out a lot of stuff if you decide not use anything with artificial flavors or colors, or high-fructose corn syrup,\" said Vogler, who worked on Camino's cocktail program. That meant no Campari, no maraschino cherries, almost none of the usual fizzy mixers. It's annoying sometimes, admits Vogler, but also fun, more like being a pastry chef with 5 or 6 creations a day than a typical bartender. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another difference in the East Coast/West Coast throwdown: the pervasive Latin and Asian influences here, and the predominance of tequila, sake, soju and other similar liquors here in lieu of the whiskeys, bourbons, port and sherries more popular in New York. At Cantina, McDonnell noted, the two most popular cocktails are Asian-Latin mashups: the 5-Spice Margarita, and the Latin Buddha, which blends Buddha's Hand citrus vodka with serrano chiles and ginger beer. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A lengthy cocktail competition during the midday food-and-wine tasting seemed to prove nearly all these points. In an Iron-Chef-styled move, the 3 bartenders had to whip up, on the spot, an original cocktail featuring a secret ingredient. The ingredient? Fresh herbs, from dill and rosemary to purple basil and fennel flowers and sage. The winner, Nick Varacalli's \"Pass me the lemon, honey\" matched lemon thyme with honey-sweetened bourbon, a bit of Canton ginger liqueur, fresh lemon, sweet vermouth, and bitters. A little fresh, a little sweet, a little bitter, and some herb to top it off: what could be more Californian? \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/cocktails500.jpg\" alt=\"cocktails\" title=\"cocktails\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5846\">\u003cbr>\n10:30 a.m. on a weekday morning is not my usual cocktail hour. But with a cheerful \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfchefsfoodwine.com/\">SF Chefs. Food. Wine\u003c/a> volunteer saying \"Breakfast is served!\" as he placed a cute pink drink in front of me, well, what could I do? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was, after all, educational. The drink was a raspberry rum daisy, made with white rum, lemon, and raspberries, an olden-days cocktail made artisanally up-to-date through the use of small-batch Caribbean-style Baptiste rum and a locally made fruit syrup sweetened with raw cane sugar and thickened with gum arabic, that secret weapon of molecular gastronomy. And the occasion was Cocktails Get Into the Mix , an exploration of the past and present state of West Coast cocktail culture, moderated by \u003ca href=\"http://www.alcademics.com\">Alcademics\u003c/a> editor Camper English. In conversation with English was Duggan McDonnell of Cantina and Thad Vogler of the upcoming Bar Agricole. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Drawing a contrast between the technique-obsessed, traditionalist, authenticity-driven New York style of places like Milk and Honey, Death & Co. and the more free-wheeling, flavor-inspired California vibe, Duggan laughed, admitting, \"We're more of a hot mess behind the bar.\" But both Vogler and McDonnell gave New York City its props, saying they'd both learned a tremendous amount about how even the simplest decisions--what sort of ice to use, whether to double-strain (using a cocktail strainer first, a fine tea strainer second)--can make a dramatic difference in the final result. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But, much like our restaurants, the current West Coast cocktail scene is driven by the extensive, year-round availability of amazing produce. \"We eat and drink incredibly well here, we're tasting things constantly,\" noted McDonnell, who connects this vibrant, terrior-driven food culture with the rise in inventive, market-driven cocktail menus. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These drinks may look simple, but much of the work happens after hours, with bartenders simmering their own herb- or spice-infused syrups, amassing collections of quirky amari (the bitter digestive liqueurs beloved by true cocktail geeks), even growing (or bartering for) herbs, fruits, or seasonings. For bartenders less interested in getting in touch with their inner chef, there's \u003ca href=\"http://www.smallhandfoods.com\">Small Hand Foods\u003c/a> run by Jennifer Colliau, a bartender at the Slanted Door, whose Berkeley-based company creates \"classic ingredients for pre-prohibition cocktails,\" including grenadine, gum syrup, orgeat, and pineapple and raspberry syrups. All are made in small batches using raw cane sugar (no corn syrup) and no artificial ingredients. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As the group of us sipped our rosy daisies (flavored with Colliau's raspberry gum syrup), Vogler pointed out the difficulty of sourcing spirits that haven't come though the big industrial distillers. Even small-batch labels often buy their base spirit--neutral alcohols usually derived from grain--from big producers, then redistill, infuse and flavor it to their own specifications. This, he noted, was behind the simple but surprisingly \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/blogs/mbauer/legacycomments?blogid=26&entry_id=29001\">inflammatory decision\u003c/a> of Oakland's Camino restaurant to yank vodka from their bar menu, instead carrying only a small selection of spirits and seasonal ingredients. (They've since found a small distillery that meets their standards.) When California-grown limes weren't available, the bar used lemons. This caused quite a stir in the press and blogosphere around town, as diners happy to dig into free-range rabbit and sustainable sardines were incensed at not being able to order their usual vodka tonic. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You have to throw out a lot of stuff if you decide not use anything with artificial flavors or colors, or high-fructose corn syrup,\" said Vogler, who worked on Camino's cocktail program. That meant no Campari, no maraschino cherries, almost none of the usual fizzy mixers. It's annoying sometimes, admits Vogler, but also fun, more like being a pastry chef with 5 or 6 creations a day than a typical bartender. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another difference in the East Coast/West Coast throwdown: the pervasive Latin and Asian influences here, and the predominance of tequila, sake, soju and other similar liquors here in lieu of the whiskeys, bourbons, port and sherries more popular in New York. At Cantina, McDonnell noted, the two most popular cocktails are Asian-Latin mashups: the 5-Spice Margarita, and the Latin Buddha, which blends Buddha's Hand citrus vodka with serrano chiles and ginger beer. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A lengthy cocktail competition during the midday food-and-wine tasting seemed to prove nearly all these points. In an Iron-Chef-styled move, the 3 bartenders had to whip up, on the spot, an original cocktail featuring a secret ingredient. The ingredient? Fresh herbs, from dill and rosemary to purple basil and fennel flowers and sage. The winner, Nick Varacalli's \"Pass me the lemon, honey\" matched lemon thyme with honey-sweetened bourbon, a bit of Canton ginger liqueur, fresh lemon, sweet vermouth, and bitters. A little fresh, a little sweet, a little bitter, and some herb to top it off: what could be more Californian? \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Happy Pride! Celebrate Local LGBT Chefs",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/gay-pride.jpg\" alt=\"gay pride\" title=\"gay pride\" width=\"300\" height=\"201\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-4847\">Happy Pride! The Gay High Holy Days—or week, or month, depending on your stamina and affinity for dance music, tank tops, rainbow balloons, sign-waving, marches, guys in banana thongs, and standing in line, endlessly, for tickets, beer, and/or bathrooms—are coming to their sunny, sweaty close today. Time to get off the Blue Angel-martini-and-popcorn diet and put those silver latex shorts back in the closet, at least til the Folsom Street Fair. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Or that's how it might be in \u003cem>other\u003c/em> cities, where Pride comes around but once a year. Here in our lovely fog-bound burg, though, we can be prideful every day, even if we still-still!-can't get married in City Hall. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But there is something particularly fabulous in seeing the typical straight-to-gay ratio of just about everything upended this month. I still remember walking into 2223 Market one night near the end of June last year, and feeling like everyone there was gay. Gay couples, gay friends, gay parents--it was just like being in the straight world, except this time it was all ours. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Naming all the LGBT chefs and business owners who have made the SF food scene what it is would turn this column into a faygelah version of Adam Sandler's Hannukah Song, but still, let's raise a glass to Traci des Jardins, for running a fancypants place in Hayes Valley \u003cem>and\u003c/em> a taqueria with a conscience, and never turning down the chance to help out a good cause; to bad boy Jeremiah Tower, for making Stars sparkle; to Elizabeth Faulkner and her partner Sabrina Riddle, for giving the dyke food mafia an official clubhouse, first at Citizen Cake, now at Orson; and to food photographer Frankie Frankeny, because she shoots what we want to eat, and finds a way to sneak her daschunds into every shoot. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And let's not forget a toast to vinologist Pamela Busch, of the late Hayes and Vine and the current Cav Wine Bar, and to Absinthe's Jamie Lauren and her Top Chef Team Rainbow, for making \"hot chef\" replace \"folk singer\" as the default lesbian occupation. Also heating up the room is Gialina pizza diva Sharon Ardiana, turning Glen Park into Naples, and Celia Sack of Omnivore Books, for bringing us cookbook-browsing perfection with nary a 30-Minute-Meal or celebrity diet in sight, just up the street from the ever-charming Lovejoy's Teahouse, run by Muna Nash and Gillian Briley. Were we getting married, we might just drag pastry chef Yigit Pura of Taste Catering out to Iowa with us, just so we could show that corn-fed state just how divine his chocolate-hazelnut daquoise with passion fruit filling wedding cakes can be. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And thank you Rainbow Grocery, for letting us shop for veggie dogs on the 4th of July but closing for Pride Sunday, so your collective members can be out and proud rather than stuck restocking the spirulina. Even Food Not Bombs gets into the spirit now, serving up free eats (in tuxedo shirts and fake mustaches) at their mobile Chez Gay Cafe in Dolores Park before the Trans March. We're here, we're queer, let's eat!\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Naming all the LGBT chefs and business owners who have made the SF food scene what it is would turn this column into a fagelah version of Adam Sandler's Hannukah Song, but still, let's raise a glass to toast a few of the folks we'd love to make us dinner (or even better, breakfast.) ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/gay-pride.jpg\" alt=\"gay pride\" title=\"gay pride\" width=\"300\" height=\"201\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-4847\">Happy Pride! The Gay High Holy Days—or week, or month, depending on your stamina and affinity for dance music, tank tops, rainbow balloons, sign-waving, marches, guys in banana thongs, and standing in line, endlessly, for tickets, beer, and/or bathrooms—are coming to their sunny, sweaty close today. Time to get off the Blue Angel-martini-and-popcorn diet and put those silver latex shorts back in the closet, at least til the Folsom Street Fair. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Or that's how it might be in \u003cem>other\u003c/em> cities, where Pride comes around but once a year. Here in our lovely fog-bound burg, though, we can be prideful every day, even if we still-still!-can't get married in City Hall. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But there is something particularly fabulous in seeing the typical straight-to-gay ratio of just about everything upended this month. I still remember walking into 2223 Market one night near the end of June last year, and feeling like everyone there was gay. Gay couples, gay friends, gay parents--it was just like being in the straight world, except this time it was all ours. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Naming all the LGBT chefs and business owners who have made the SF food scene what it is would turn this column into a faygelah version of Adam Sandler's Hannukah Song, but still, let's raise a glass to Traci des Jardins, for running a fancypants place in Hayes Valley \u003cem>and\u003c/em> a taqueria with a conscience, and never turning down the chance to help out a good cause; to bad boy Jeremiah Tower, for making Stars sparkle; to Elizabeth Faulkner and her partner Sabrina Riddle, for giving the dyke food mafia an official clubhouse, first at Citizen Cake, now at Orson; and to food photographer Frankie Frankeny, because she shoots what we want to eat, and finds a way to sneak her daschunds into every shoot. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And let's not forget a toast to vinologist Pamela Busch, of the late Hayes and Vine and the current Cav Wine Bar, and to Absinthe's Jamie Lauren and her Top Chef Team Rainbow, for making \"hot chef\" replace \"folk singer\" as the default lesbian occupation. Also heating up the room is Gialina pizza diva Sharon Ardiana, turning Glen Park into Naples, and Celia Sack of Omnivore Books, for bringing us cookbook-browsing perfection with nary a 30-Minute-Meal or celebrity diet in sight, just up the street from the ever-charming Lovejoy's Teahouse, run by Muna Nash and Gillian Briley. Were we getting married, we might just drag pastry chef Yigit Pura of Taste Catering out to Iowa with us, just so we could show that corn-fed state just how divine his chocolate-hazelnut daquoise with passion fruit filling wedding cakes can be. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And thank you Rainbow Grocery, for letting us shop for veggie dogs on the 4th of July but closing for Pride Sunday, so your collective members can be out and proud rather than stuck restocking the spirulina. Even Food Not Bombs gets into the spirit now, serving up free eats (in tuxedo shirts and fake mustaches) at their mobile Chez Gay Cafe in Dolores Park before the Trans March. We're here, we're queer, let's eat!\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "StarChefs Rising Stars Napa Sonoma",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/vmw_0052.jpg\" alt=\"StarChefs\" title=\"StarChefs\" width=\"500\" height=\"335\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-4681\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At gala events you expect to see top chefs preparing bite-sized nibbles for guests. But at \u003ca href=\"http://www.starchefs.com/\">StarChefs\u003c/a> events working chefs are not just preparing the food, they are the ones being celebrated. StarChefs is all about the chefs of today, and the rising star events are a great way to get a taste of what's hot at the moment. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you're not a chef, it's possible you've never visited StarChefs. The web site offers recipes, community features, publications and articles that are geared for the restaurant professional. Roughly every other year, they also hold an event in our neck of the woods. For the first time, this year they held a \u003ca href=\"http://www.starchefs.com/chefs/rising_stars/2009/napa_sonoma/index.shtml\">Rising Stars Revue™\u003c/a> in Napa and toasted the up and coming chefs of Napa and Sonoma at the historic Charles Krug winery in St. Helena.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/krug.jpg\" alt=\"Charles Krug winery in St. Helena\" title=\"Charles Krug winery in St. Helena\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-4679\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fifteen chefs, sommeliers and a mixologist were honored with food, wine and prizes to boot. Interestingly there were several husband and wife teams, one of whom had to close their restaurant in order to attend. Some favorite dishes from the evening were:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ubuntu Fregola in Caramelized Vegetable Juices with Salsa Maro from Jeremy Fox of \u003ca href=\"http://www.ubuntunapa.com/\">Ubuntu\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Poached Poussin with Summer Vegetables from Christopher Kostow of \u003ca href=\"http://www.meadowood.com/wine-and-cuisine/the-restaurant/\">The Restaurant At Meadowood\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ricotta Gnocchi, Salsa di Pomodoro della Nonna and Pecorino from Nick Ritchie of \u003ca href=\"http://www.botteganapavalley.com/\">Bottega\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chicken Fried Sweetbreads with Green Bean and Mushroom Casserole from Matt Spector of \u003ca href=\"http://www.jolerestaurant.com/\">Jolē\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sauteed Maryland Wild Striped Bass, Ragout of Salsify, Black Trumpet Mushrooms, Bloomsdale Spinach and Spinach Vin Blanc from Restaurateur Award winner John Toulze \u003ca href=\"http://www.thegirlandthefig.com/html-sonoma/index.html\">the girl & the fig\u003c/a>, fig café, Estate\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lemon Verbena Parfait with Summer Stone Fruit from Pastry Chef Deanie Hickox-Fox of \u003ca href=\"http://www.ubuntunapa.com/\">Ubuntu\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Long Ranch Goat Two Ways: Grilled and Braised with Rancho Gordo Beans and Salsa Verde from Host Chef Richard Haake of \u003ca href=\"http://www.winerychefs.com/\">Winery Chefs\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the event guests got a chance to vote for their favorite dish. I had a hard time choosing between intensely herbal and fragrant fregola dish and the delicate yet crisp striped bass but in the end, the winner was Matt Spector and his decadent sweetbread dish. Looking at the recipes that were in the program, it's clear why we love eating out. With complicated techniques, multiple preparations and long ingredient lists, these were not dishes you would likely make at home! \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of the most beautiful dishes was this plated dessert from Deanie Hickox-Fox. Basically an unconstructed tart, it featured a bit of crunchy crust, sweet apricot with lemon verbena cream accented with a fruit puree, and garnished with edible flowers and a thin wafer cookie. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/dessert.jpg\" alt=\"dessert by Deanie Hickox-Fox\" title=\"dessert by Deanie Hickox-Fox\" width=\"500\" height=\"335\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-4680\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To make at home, I'd recommend the cocktail presented by Scott Beattie, the Bella Ruffina, a pretty rose colored cocktail perfect for warm Summer days or nights...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bella Ruffina\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n4 ounces Braquetto di Aqui\u003cbr>\n1 ounce Carpano Antico Vermouth\u003cbr>\n1 dash orange bitters\u003cbr>\n1 Amarena cherry, for garnish\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Combine the sparkling wine, vermouth and bitters in a champagne flute and stir gently. Drop the cherry in the bottom of the glass to serve. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Recipe reprinted from \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1580089216/kqedorg-20\">Artisanal Cocktails\u003c/a> by Scott Beattie, published by Tenspeed.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "At gala events you expect to see top chefs preparing bite-sized nibbles for guests. But at \u003ca href=\"http://www.starchefs.com/\">StarChefs\u003c/a> events working chefs are not just preparing the food, they are the ones being celebrated. StarChefs is all about the chefs of today, and the rising star events are a great way to get a taste of the future. ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ubuntu Fregola in Caramelized Vegetable Juices with Salsa Maro from Jeremy Fox of \u003ca href=\"http://www.ubuntunapa.com/\">Ubuntu\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Poached Poussin with Summer Vegetables from Christopher Kostow of \u003ca href=\"http://www.meadowood.com/wine-and-cuisine/the-restaurant/\">The Restaurant At Meadowood\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ricotta Gnocchi, Salsa di Pomodoro della Nonna and Pecorino from Nick Ritchie of \u003ca href=\"http://www.botteganapavalley.com/\">Bottega\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chicken Fried Sweetbreads with Green Bean and Mushroom Casserole from Matt Spector of \u003ca href=\"http://www.jolerestaurant.com/\">Jolē\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sauteed Maryland Wild Striped Bass, Ragout of Salsify, Black Trumpet Mushrooms, Bloomsdale Spinach and Spinach Vin Blanc from Restaurateur Award winner John Toulze \u003ca href=\"http://www.thegirlandthefig.com/html-sonoma/index.html\">the girl & the fig\u003c/a>, fig café, Estate\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lemon Verbena Parfait with Summer Stone Fruit from Pastry Chef Deanie Hickox-Fox of \u003ca href=\"http://www.ubuntunapa.com/\">Ubuntu\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Long Ranch Goat Two Ways: Grilled and Braised with Rancho Gordo Beans and Salsa Verde from Host Chef Richard Haake of \u003ca href=\"http://www.winerychefs.com/\">Winery Chefs\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the event guests got a chance to vote for their favorite dish. I had a hard time choosing between intensely herbal and fragrant fregola dish and the delicate yet crisp striped bass but in the end, the winner was Matt Spector and his decadent sweetbread dish. Looking at the recipes that were in the program, it's clear why we love eating out. With complicated techniques, multiple preparations and long ingredient lists, these were not dishes you would likely make at home! \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of the most beautiful dishes was this plated dessert from Deanie Hickox-Fox. Basically an unconstructed tart, it featured a bit of crunchy crust, sweet apricot with lemon verbena cream accented with a fruit puree, and garnished with edible flowers and a thin wafer cookie. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/dessert.jpg\" alt=\"dessert by Deanie Hickox-Fox\" title=\"dessert by Deanie Hickox-Fox\" width=\"500\" height=\"335\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-4680\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To make at home, I'd recommend the cocktail presented by Scott Beattie, the Bella Ruffina, a pretty rose colored cocktail perfect for warm Summer days or nights...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bella Ruffina\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n4 ounces Braquetto di Aqui\u003cbr>\n1 ounce Carpano Antico Vermouth\u003cbr>\n1 dash orange bitters\u003cbr>\n1 Amarena cherry, for garnish\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Combine the sparkling wine, vermouth and bitters in a champagne flute and stir gently. Drop the cherry in the bottom of the glass to serve. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Recipe reprinted from \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1580089216/kqedorg-20\">Artisanal Cocktails\u003c/a> by Scott Beattie, published by Tenspeed.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "How to make your ragu sing like Pavarotti",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/pasta-ragu.jpg\" alt=\"mostaccioli with pork shoulder ragu\" title=\"mostaccioli with pork shoulder ragu\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-4660\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Mostaccioli with pork shoulder ragu\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I've been making meat sauces for years, but only now -- after two months as an apprentice at Oliveto -- have I learned some of the secrets behind a superlative ragu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A ragu is a basic meat sauce for pasta. The first authentic version I tried was years ago, in Emilia-Romagna, the region of Italy that invented the classic Bolognese sauce. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That first ragu was bold and brooding -- much like a Pavarotti opera. The sauce was entangled in a nest of perfectly cooked tagliatelle, with the flavor infused into the noodle. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Numerous cookbooks offer suggestions on making a Bolognese sauce and other forms of ragu. Yet nearly all of these recipes, in my opinion, are flawed. Most suggest cooking a mixture of diced onion, carrots and celery before adding your meat to brown it. The sauce that results tends to be lifeless or, even worse, infused with chunks of burnt vegetables.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/ragu-veg.jpg\" alt=\"Vegetables sweating on top of meat as the meat brown\" title=\"Vegetables sweating on top of meat as the meat brown\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-4661\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Vegetables sweating on top of meat as the meat brown\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At Oliveto, the chefs have reversed the sequence. First they brown the meat and then allow the vegetables to steam, or \"sweat,\" on top of the meat. This process produces a dark layer of caramelized meat solids at the bottom of the pan -- a foundation of flavor. This foundation, or \"fond\" as the chefs call it, is then deglazed by the natural juices of the vegetables when added on top. This is allowed to cook down so the fond is rebuilt and deglazed two or three times.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Paul Bertolli, the former head chef at Oliveto, describes the technique in his 2003 book, \"Cooking By Hand.\" Bertolli's successor, Paul Canales, who had a role in developing this technique, has continued to refine and perfect it since becoming executive chef.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cooking a ragu in this manner is not difficult, but it cannot be whipped out in an hour or two. A ragu is truly slow food -- time-tested and refined by Italian grandmothers over many centuries.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/ragu-cooking.jpg\" alt=\"Ragu ready for a long simmer, after broth and tomato paste have been added\" title=\"Ragu ready for a long simmer, after broth and tomato paste have been added\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-4663\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Ragu ready for a long simmer, after broth and tomato paste have been added\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ragu for pasta\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Makes:\u003c/strong> 8-10 servings of sauce\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n2 pounds ground meat (Beef, pork or equal amounts of both. For beef, try ground chuck or get adventurous with ground hanger steak, beef cheeks, etc. For the pig, try ground pork shoulder.)\u003cbr>\n4 medium yellow onions\u003cbr>\n5 stalks celery\u003cbr>\n5 carrots\u003cbr>\n4 tablespoons finely chopped fresh sage\u003cbr>\n2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh oregano\u003cbr>\n6 cups dark chicken or veal stock\u003cbr>\n½ cup white wine\u003cbr>\n½ cup high-quality tomato paste\u003cbr>\n1 cup cream (optional)\u003cbr>\nSalt and pepper to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Dice the onions, celery and carrots into a mirepoix -- cubes smaller than 1/4 inch in size. As you are dicing the vegetables and mincing the fresh herbs, start cooking your meat. Use a heavy bottomed Dutch oven or stew pot. This is essential. The bottom of the pan has to be thick and heavy enough to brown the meat, without scorching it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Use high heat to start your browning process. But keep an eye on it, and adjust the flame accordingly. It’s okay for the meat to stick and brown, but you don't want it to blacken or burn.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. After you have built an even layer of fond on the bottom, toss your vegetables on top of the meat. Leave them there for at least 15 minutes, allowing them to release their juices to the bottom of the pan. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Give your meat and vegetable a rigorous stir with a wooden spoon, and scrape up the fond layer that has now been deglazed by the vegetables. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5. Turn up heat slightly, and allow this to cook down and brown again, then add a shot of wine -- no more than a cup. Stir and scrape. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6. Allow this to cook down again. When browned, add a cup of stock. Repeat the process and add your tomato paste, diluted with a half cup of stock.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>7. Watch your ragu carefully at this point. The addition of tomato paste could lead to scorching. Keep the heat up, but stir it regularly as the fond starts to reform. When it is nice and brown, but not scorched, add two or three cups of stock -- enough to make it slightly more soupy than you'd want for a sauce. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>8. At this point, your ragu should have a lovely, brownish-red color. Bring it to a boil and then turn down to a simmer. Allow it to simmer for two to four hours, stirring occasionally and adding more stock, if necessary. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>9. Before serving, you have the option of adding cream -- as much or as little as you want. Too much cream will dilute the intensity of the sauce, so be judicious at first.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>10. You can take this basic sauce in many different directions. Add minced porcini mushrooms early in the cooking for an earthier flavor, or cinnamon or nutmeg to give it a spicy edge. Use different combinations of fresh herbs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>11. The final step, of course, is marrying the ragu with the pasta. Don't just ladle it on top. Cook your pasta just short of al dente, then mix it thoroughly in a skillet with an appropriate amount of sauce and then serve it immediately. Sprinkle some Parmesan cheese on top, and you will be ready to sing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/ragu400.jpg\" alt=\"ragu\" title=\"ragu\" width=\"400\" height=\"297\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-4665\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>This is what ragu should look like when finished\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "I've been making meat sauces for years, but only now -- after two months as an apprentice at Oliveto -- have I learned some of the secrets behind a superlative ragu.\r\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/pasta-ragu.jpg\" alt=\"mostaccioli with pork shoulder ragu\" title=\"mostaccioli with pork shoulder ragu\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-4660\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Mostaccioli with pork shoulder ragu\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I've been making meat sauces for years, but only now -- after two months as an apprentice at Oliveto -- have I learned some of the secrets behind a superlative ragu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A ragu is a basic meat sauce for pasta. The first authentic version I tried was years ago, in Emilia-Romagna, the region of Italy that invented the classic Bolognese sauce. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That first ragu was bold and brooding -- much like a Pavarotti opera. The sauce was entangled in a nest of perfectly cooked tagliatelle, with the flavor infused into the noodle. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Numerous cookbooks offer suggestions on making a Bolognese sauce and other forms of ragu. Yet nearly all of these recipes, in my opinion, are flawed. Most suggest cooking a mixture of diced onion, carrots and celery before adding your meat to brown it. The sauce that results tends to be lifeless or, even worse, infused with chunks of burnt vegetables.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/ragu-veg.jpg\" alt=\"Vegetables sweating on top of meat as the meat brown\" title=\"Vegetables sweating on top of meat as the meat brown\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-4661\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Vegetables sweating on top of meat as the meat brown\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At Oliveto, the chefs have reversed the sequence. First they brown the meat and then allow the vegetables to steam, or \"sweat,\" on top of the meat. This process produces a dark layer of caramelized meat solids at the bottom of the pan -- a foundation of flavor. This foundation, or \"fond\" as the chefs call it, is then deglazed by the natural juices of the vegetables when added on top. This is allowed to cook down so the fond is rebuilt and deglazed two or three times.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Paul Bertolli, the former head chef at Oliveto, describes the technique in his 2003 book, \"Cooking By Hand.\" Bertolli's successor, Paul Canales, who had a role in developing this technique, has continued to refine and perfect it since becoming executive chef.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cooking a ragu in this manner is not difficult, but it cannot be whipped out in an hour or two. A ragu is truly slow food -- time-tested and refined by Italian grandmothers over many centuries.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/ragu-cooking.jpg\" alt=\"Ragu ready for a long simmer, after broth and tomato paste have been added\" title=\"Ragu ready for a long simmer, after broth and tomato paste have been added\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-4663\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Ragu ready for a long simmer, after broth and tomato paste have been added\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ragu for pasta\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Makes:\u003c/strong> 8-10 servings of sauce\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n2 pounds ground meat (Beef, pork or equal amounts of both. For beef, try ground chuck or get adventurous with ground hanger steak, beef cheeks, etc. For the pig, try ground pork shoulder.)\u003cbr>\n4 medium yellow onions\u003cbr>\n5 stalks celery\u003cbr>\n5 carrots\u003cbr>\n4 tablespoons finely chopped fresh sage\u003cbr>\n2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh oregano\u003cbr>\n6 cups dark chicken or veal stock\u003cbr>\n½ cup white wine\u003cbr>\n½ cup high-quality tomato paste\u003cbr>\n1 cup cream (optional)\u003cbr>\nSalt and pepper to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Dice the onions, celery and carrots into a mirepoix -- cubes smaller than 1/4 inch in size. As you are dicing the vegetables and mincing the fresh herbs, start cooking your meat. Use a heavy bottomed Dutch oven or stew pot. This is essential. The bottom of the pan has to be thick and heavy enough to brown the meat, without scorching it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Use high heat to start your browning process. But keep an eye on it, and adjust the flame accordingly. It’s okay for the meat to stick and brown, but you don't want it to blacken or burn.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. After you have built an even layer of fond on the bottom, toss your vegetables on top of the meat. Leave them there for at least 15 minutes, allowing them to release their juices to the bottom of the pan. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Give your meat and vegetable a rigorous stir with a wooden spoon, and scrape up the fond layer that has now been deglazed by the vegetables. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5. Turn up heat slightly, and allow this to cook down and brown again, then add a shot of wine -- no more than a cup. Stir and scrape. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6. Allow this to cook down again. When browned, add a cup of stock. Repeat the process and add your tomato paste, diluted with a half cup of stock.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>7. Watch your ragu carefully at this point. The addition of tomato paste could lead to scorching. Keep the heat up, but stir it regularly as the fond starts to reform. When it is nice and brown, but not scorched, add two or three cups of stock -- enough to make it slightly more soupy than you'd want for a sauce. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>8. At this point, your ragu should have a lovely, brownish-red color. Bring it to a boil and then turn down to a simmer. Allow it to simmer for two to four hours, stirring occasionally and adding more stock, if necessary. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>9. Before serving, you have the option of adding cream -- as much or as little as you want. Too much cream will dilute the intensity of the sauce, so be judicious at first.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>10. You can take this basic sauce in many different directions. Add minced porcini mushrooms early in the cooking for an earthier flavor, or cinnamon or nutmeg to give it a spicy edge. Use different combinations of fresh herbs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>11. The final step, of course, is marrying the ragu with the pasta. Don't just ladle it on top. Cook your pasta just short of al dente, then mix it thoroughly in a skillet with an appropriate amount of sauce and then serve it immediately. Sprinkle some Parmesan cheese on top, and you will be ready to sing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/ragu400.jpg\" alt=\"ragu\" title=\"ragu\" width=\"400\" height=\"297\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-4665\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>This is what ragu should look like when finished\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "The Great American Food & Music Festival",
"title": "The Great American Food & Music Festival",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/great-american-food-music-fest-2009-001.jpg\" alt=\"The Great American Food and Music Festival\" title=\"The Great American Food and Music Festival\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-4576\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>The Great American Food & Music Festival (6/13/09), Mountain View, CA\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you made it to the \u003ca href=\"//greatamericanfoodandmusicfestival.com/index.html\">Great American Food & Music Festival\u003c/a> this weekend, you may still be grumbling, \"You mean the \u003cem>not so great\u003c/em> American \u003cem>no-Food\u003c/em> Festival\"...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/great-american-food-music-fest-2009-239.jpg\" alt=\"great-american-food-music-fest-2009-239\" title=\"great-american-food-music-fest-2009-239\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-4577\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Katz’s Deli, New York Pastrami on Rye\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The first time event was just not prepared for the hordes of hungry festival-goers, eyes glowing red from want of a \u003ca href=\"http://www.katzdeli.com/\">Katz’s Pastrami\u003c/a> and other best of the best eats from around the country. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With an influx of over 15,000 patrons descending upon the festival, chaos ensued as systems crashed, credit cards were rendered useless, and lines upon lines multiplied. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/2009-06-13-11-41-42-img_8054.jpg\" alt=\"2009-06-13-11-41-42-img_8054\" title=\"2009-06-13-11-41-42-img_8054\" width=\"500\" height=\"334\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-4578\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Lines...\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/2009-06-13-11-41-56-img_8055.jpg\" alt=\"2009-06-13-11-41-56-img_8055\" title=\"2009-06-13-11-41-56-img_8055\" width=\"500\" height=\"334\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-4579\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>...and more lines\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Passive-aggressive behavior escalated to aggressive-aggressive revolts as people waited an hour plus just to get into the Shoreline Amphitheatre, waited to add money to wristbands so they could purchase food, and then waited some more to actually get close to that glorious food. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/great-american-food-music-fest-2009-037.jpg\" alt=\"great-american-food-music-fest-2009-037\" title=\"great-american-food-music-fest-2009-037\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-4580\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Junior's Cheesecake\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Propane griddles failed, food ran out, and disgruntled folks stood in lines for hours on end. Yes hours (that's plural). Those \u003ca href=\"http://www.anchorbar.com/\">Anchor Bar Buffalo Wings\u003c/a> were mighty tasty, but were they worth 3 hours of standing in line?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Grievance aside, once you managed to get to some food, it was delicious. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/2009-06-13-16-41-21-img_8028.jpg\" alt=\"2009-06-13-16-41-21-img_8028\" title=\"2009-06-13-16-41-21-img_8028\" width=\"500\" height=\"334\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-4581\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>A burger from Bobby\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Coupled with some big cold beers, beautiful weather, some green grass to sit on, and a little entertainment, the day ended up being a fun day in the sun. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/2009-06-13-13-19-50-img_8079.jpg\" alt=\"2009-06-13-13-19-50-img_8079\" title=\"2009-06-13-13-19-50-img_8079\" width=\"500\" height=\"334\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-4582\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Great American Food & Music Fest, Serious Eats stage\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Not to mention, the opportunity to get up close and personal with the talented chefs and proprietors who make some of the best food around the country. And of course, Food Network celeb chefs galore: \u003cstrong>Bobby Flay\u003c/strong>, \u003cstrong>Guy Fieri\u003c/strong>, \u003cstrong>Anne Burrell\u003c/strong>, and \u003cstrong>Aida Mollenkamp\u003c/strong>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Highlights of the festival:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/great-american-food-music-fest-2009-254.jpg\" alt=\"Pinks Famous Hot Dogs\" title=\"Pinks Famous Hot Dogs\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-4583\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Pink’s Famous Hot Dogs\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.pinkshollywood.com/\">Pink’s Famous Hot Dogs\u003c/a> from LA were my favorite item of the day. A meaty dog with that great snap when you bite into it, topped with chili, cheese, kraut, mustard, catsup, relish, and onions. A sloppy, amazing, delicious mess. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/2009-06-13-15-19-37-img_8117.jpg\" alt=\"SF Weekly Burger Challenge\" title=\"SF Weekly Burger Challenge\" width=\"500\" height=\"334\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-4584\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>SF Weekly Burger Challenge\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bay Area favorites, \u003ca href=\"http://burgermeistersf.com/\">BurgerMeister\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.pearlsdiner.com/\">Pearl’s Phatburgers\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.bistroburger.net/\">Bistro Burger\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.mosgrill.com/\">Mo’s Grill\u003c/a> duked it out for the title of Best Burger. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bistro Burger's rich, creamy \u003cstrong>Paris Burger\u003c/strong>, with brie and sautéed mushrooms, impressed even grill master Bobby with its crazy juiciness.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/2009-06-13-15-29-33-img_8130.jpg\" alt=\"Pearls Hawaiian Burger\" title=\"Pearls Hawaiian Burger\" width=\"500\" height=\"334\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-4586\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>SF Weekly's Best Burger Winner: Pearl's Hawaiian Burger\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But, it was no match for Pearl's \u003cstrong>Hawaiian Burger\u003c/strong>, with sliced pineapple, bacon, teriyaki sauce, jack and mayo, which took first with its sweet, spicy, exotic burger o' love.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/2009-06-13-18-28-44-img_8181.jpg\" alt=\"Rockstar Performance from Guy Fieri\" title=\"Rockstar Performance from Guy Fieri\" width=\"500\" height=\"334\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-4585\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Rockstar Performance from Guy Fieri\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Must give props to Guy, he rocked the crowd with a highly entertaining blowout performance complete with loud rock n'roll, gratuitous hot chicks on stage, big machinery, power tools, and pyrotechnics. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All in all, a day that was admittedly frustrating, but not without some bright spots. If the people don't lynch them first, here's hoping that producers of \u003cstrong>The Great American Food & Music Festival\u003c/strong> can learn from mistakes and come back with a better, more organized, less stressful event next year. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/2009-06-13-14-02-13-img_8088.jpg\" alt=\"Baby likes Brisket\" title=\"Baby likes Brisket\" width=\"500\" height=\"334\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-4587\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Baby likes Brisket\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We’re rooting for you to work out the kinks because we know that bringing together America's best is no easy feat. Looking forward to next year! \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "If you made it to the \u003ca href=\"//greatamericanfoodandmusicfestival.com/index.html\">Great American Food & Music Festival\u003c/a> this weekend, you may still be grumbling, \"You mean the \u003cem>not so great\u003c/em> American \u003cem>no-Food\u003c/em> Festival\"...",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/great-american-food-music-fest-2009-001.jpg\" alt=\"The Great American Food and Music Festival\" title=\"The Great American Food and Music Festival\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-4576\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>The Great American Food & Music Festival (6/13/09), Mountain View, CA\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you made it to the \u003ca href=\"//greatamericanfoodandmusicfestival.com/index.html\">Great American Food & Music Festival\u003c/a> this weekend, you may still be grumbling, \"You mean the \u003cem>not so great\u003c/em> American \u003cem>no-Food\u003c/em> Festival\"...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/great-american-food-music-fest-2009-239.jpg\" alt=\"great-american-food-music-fest-2009-239\" title=\"great-american-food-music-fest-2009-239\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-4577\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Katz’s Deli, New York Pastrami on Rye\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The first time event was just not prepared for the hordes of hungry festival-goers, eyes glowing red from want of a \u003ca href=\"http://www.katzdeli.com/\">Katz’s Pastrami\u003c/a> and other best of the best eats from around the country. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With an influx of over 15,000 patrons descending upon the festival, chaos ensued as systems crashed, credit cards were rendered useless, and lines upon lines multiplied. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/2009-06-13-11-41-42-img_8054.jpg\" alt=\"2009-06-13-11-41-42-img_8054\" title=\"2009-06-13-11-41-42-img_8054\" width=\"500\" height=\"334\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-4578\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Lines...\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/2009-06-13-11-41-56-img_8055.jpg\" alt=\"2009-06-13-11-41-56-img_8055\" title=\"2009-06-13-11-41-56-img_8055\" width=\"500\" height=\"334\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-4579\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>...and more lines\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Passive-aggressive behavior escalated to aggressive-aggressive revolts as people waited an hour plus just to get into the Shoreline Amphitheatre, waited to add money to wristbands so they could purchase food, and then waited some more to actually get close to that glorious food. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/great-american-food-music-fest-2009-037.jpg\" alt=\"great-american-food-music-fest-2009-037\" title=\"great-american-food-music-fest-2009-037\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-4580\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Junior's Cheesecake\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Propane griddles failed, food ran out, and disgruntled folks stood in lines for hours on end. Yes hours (that's plural). Those \u003ca href=\"http://www.anchorbar.com/\">Anchor Bar Buffalo Wings\u003c/a> were mighty tasty, but were they worth 3 hours of standing in line?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Grievance aside, once you managed to get to some food, it was delicious. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/2009-06-13-16-41-21-img_8028.jpg\" alt=\"2009-06-13-16-41-21-img_8028\" title=\"2009-06-13-16-41-21-img_8028\" width=\"500\" height=\"334\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-4581\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>A burger from Bobby\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Coupled with some big cold beers, beautiful weather, some green grass to sit on, and a little entertainment, the day ended up being a fun day in the sun. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/2009-06-13-13-19-50-img_8079.jpg\" alt=\"2009-06-13-13-19-50-img_8079\" title=\"2009-06-13-13-19-50-img_8079\" width=\"500\" height=\"334\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-4582\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Great American Food & Music Fest, Serious Eats stage\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Not to mention, the opportunity to get up close and personal with the talented chefs and proprietors who make some of the best food around the country. And of course, Food Network celeb chefs galore: \u003cstrong>Bobby Flay\u003c/strong>, \u003cstrong>Guy Fieri\u003c/strong>, \u003cstrong>Anne Burrell\u003c/strong>, and \u003cstrong>Aida Mollenkamp\u003c/strong>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Highlights of the festival:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/great-american-food-music-fest-2009-254.jpg\" alt=\"Pinks Famous Hot Dogs\" title=\"Pinks Famous Hot Dogs\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-4583\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Pink’s Famous Hot Dogs\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.pinkshollywood.com/\">Pink’s Famous Hot Dogs\u003c/a> from LA were my favorite item of the day. A meaty dog with that great snap when you bite into it, topped with chili, cheese, kraut, mustard, catsup, relish, and onions. A sloppy, amazing, delicious mess. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/2009-06-13-15-19-37-img_8117.jpg\" alt=\"SF Weekly Burger Challenge\" title=\"SF Weekly Burger Challenge\" width=\"500\" height=\"334\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-4584\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>SF Weekly Burger Challenge\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bay Area favorites, \u003ca href=\"http://burgermeistersf.com/\">BurgerMeister\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.pearlsdiner.com/\">Pearl’s Phatburgers\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.bistroburger.net/\">Bistro Burger\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.mosgrill.com/\">Mo’s Grill\u003c/a> duked it out for the title of Best Burger. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bistro Burger's rich, creamy \u003cstrong>Paris Burger\u003c/strong>, with brie and sautéed mushrooms, impressed even grill master Bobby with its crazy juiciness.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/2009-06-13-15-29-33-img_8130.jpg\" alt=\"Pearls Hawaiian Burger\" title=\"Pearls Hawaiian Burger\" width=\"500\" height=\"334\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-4586\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>SF Weekly's Best Burger Winner: Pearl's Hawaiian Burger\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But, it was no match for Pearl's \u003cstrong>Hawaiian Burger\u003c/strong>, with sliced pineapple, bacon, teriyaki sauce, jack and mayo, which took first with its sweet, spicy, exotic burger o' love.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/2009-06-13-18-28-44-img_8181.jpg\" alt=\"Rockstar Performance from Guy Fieri\" title=\"Rockstar Performance from Guy Fieri\" width=\"500\" height=\"334\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-4585\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Rockstar Performance from Guy Fieri\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Must give props to Guy, he rocked the crowd with a highly entertaining blowout performance complete with loud rock n'roll, gratuitous hot chicks on stage, big machinery, power tools, and pyrotechnics. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All in all, a day that was admittedly frustrating, but not without some bright spots. If the people don't lynch them first, here's hoping that producers of \u003cstrong>The Great American Food & Music Festival\u003c/strong> can learn from mistakes and come back with a better, more organized, less stressful event next year. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/2009-06-13-14-02-13-img_8088.jpg\" alt=\"Baby likes Brisket\" title=\"Baby likes Brisket\" width=\"500\" height=\"334\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-4587\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Baby likes Brisket\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We’re rooting for you to work out the kinks because we know that bringing together America's best is no easy feat. Looking forward to next year! \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Sunset Celebration Weekend",
"title": "Sunset Celebration Weekend",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-4377\" title=\"Our One-Block Diet Sunset team garden\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/teamgarden.jpg\" alt=\"Our One-Block Diet Sunset team garden\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.sunset.com/\">Sunset\u003c/a> magazine has long been the go-to source for \"how to live in the West\" especially when it comes to travel, gardening, home improvement and of course, food and wine. Since the centennial of the magazine in 1998, Sunset has been hosting an annual open house called the \u003ca href=\"http://www.sunset.com/marketplace/celebration-weekend-2009-00400000038329/\">Sunset Celebration Weekend\u003c/a>. The weekend takes place in June, and there is a schedule of chef demonstrations, garden and outdoor living events and live entertainment. The entrance fee is $15 and that gets you admission to all of the presentations although you'll need to sign up for the wine tasting events separately and they fill up quickly.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Many vendors offer tastes and nibbles, but for a meal, you'll have to pay. I was a bit disappointed that the food available was the typical street fair variety such as corn dogs, gyros and overpriced tostada salads. Not very inspiring! The exhibitors and vendors range from Hawaiian Airlines and speciality nurseries to the ShamWow! and everything in between.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Highlights of the experience include meandering through the gardens, including the \u003ca href=\"http://oneblockdiet.sunset.com/the_garden/\">team garden\u003c/a> for the Our One-Block Diet, a tour of the test kitchen and the outdoor kitchen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-4383\" title=\"test kitchen\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/testkitchen.jpg\" alt=\"test kitchen\" width=\"500\" height=\"374\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Test kitchen has a long counter where finished dishes are evaluated. Once the editorial and test kitchen team is finished with the dish, a green flag indicates the staff can eat it. A red flag means the dish is not yet finished, and a pirate flag means, the dish did not pass muster, eat at your own risk! In the tote bag you receive at the entrance are some coupons, a schedule and a great booklet with recipes from all the chefs so even if you only come one day, you'll have recipes from the whole weekend.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-4375\" title=\"burak epir\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/burakepir.jpg\" alt=\"burak epir\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My favorite presentations were by chefs Burak Epir of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.pilitagrill.com/\">Pilita Mediterranean Turkish Grill\u003c/a> in San Carlos and Cindy Pawlcyn of \u003ca href=\"http://mustardsgrill.com/\">Mustard's Grill\u003c/a>. Epir showed off his kebab technique with a huge knife, and shared tips such as using a small sieve to filter stems and seeds from dried herbs. He used my favorite pepper, maras, in his recipe for Kilis kebab which also included lots of fresh parsley, the most commonly used fresh herb in Turkey.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-4376\" title=\"cindy pawlcyn\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/cindypawlcyn.jpg\" alt=\"cindy pawlcyn\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cindy Pawlcyn emphasized the importance of using the ripest produce, explaining it is better to substitute an ingredient than to use something that is not deliciously ripe. She also showed a technique of smashing hazelnuts with the side of a chef knife rather than chopping them to create a better and more uniform texture. Great tips, no matter what recipe you try.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Kilis kebab\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n10 tomatoes\u003cbr>\n2 poblano peppers\u003cbr>\n1 medium white onion, preferably sweet\u003cbr>\n1 bunch Italian parsley, chopped\u003cbr>\n1 Tablespoon salt\u003cbr>\n1/2 Tablespoon fresh ground pepper\u003cbr>\n1 Tablespoon Maras red pepper, also called Marash pepper\u003cbr>\n1/2 medium white onion, grated\u003cbr>\n2 pounds ground lamb, shoulder cut\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On a charcoal grill cook the tomatoes and pepper until well charred, remove the skins and finely dice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Also finely dice the onion and mix it with the chopped parsley. Add to the charred tomato and peppers and set aside. Cover and keep warm.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Prepare the kebab by adding salt, pepper, Maras red pepper and the grated onions to the ground lamb. Mix well. Make the meatballs and place on a skewer. Grill indirectly over the heat, until nice and juicy. Place the charred tomato and peppers on a plate and set the meat kebabs over it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Recipe reprinted courtesy of Sunset and chef Burak Epir\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "\u003ca href=\"http://www.sunset.com/\">Sunset\u003c/a> magazine has long been the go-to source for \"how to live in the West\" especially when it comes to travel, gardening, home improvement and of course, food and wine. Since the centennial of the magazine in 1998, Sunset has been hosting an annual open house called the \u003ca href=\"http://www.sunset.com/marketplace/celebration-weekend-2009-00400000038329/\">Sunset Celebration Weekend\u003c/a>. ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-4377\" title=\"Our One-Block Diet Sunset team garden\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/teamgarden.jpg\" alt=\"Our One-Block Diet Sunset team garden\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.sunset.com/\">Sunset\u003c/a> magazine has long been the go-to source for \"how to live in the West\" especially when it comes to travel, gardening, home improvement and of course, food and wine. Since the centennial of the magazine in 1998, Sunset has been hosting an annual open house called the \u003ca href=\"http://www.sunset.com/marketplace/celebration-weekend-2009-00400000038329/\">Sunset Celebration Weekend\u003c/a>. The weekend takes place in June, and there is a schedule of chef demonstrations, garden and outdoor living events and live entertainment. The entrance fee is $15 and that gets you admission to all of the presentations although you'll need to sign up for the wine tasting events separately and they fill up quickly.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Many vendors offer tastes and nibbles, but for a meal, you'll have to pay. I was a bit disappointed that the food available was the typical street fair variety such as corn dogs, gyros and overpriced tostada salads. Not very inspiring! The exhibitors and vendors range from Hawaiian Airlines and speciality nurseries to the ShamWow! and everything in between.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Highlights of the experience include meandering through the gardens, including the \u003ca href=\"http://oneblockdiet.sunset.com/the_garden/\">team garden\u003c/a> for the Our One-Block Diet, a tour of the test kitchen and the outdoor kitchen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-4383\" title=\"test kitchen\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/testkitchen.jpg\" alt=\"test kitchen\" width=\"500\" height=\"374\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Test kitchen has a long counter where finished dishes are evaluated. Once the editorial and test kitchen team is finished with the dish, a green flag indicates the staff can eat it. A red flag means the dish is not yet finished, and a pirate flag means, the dish did not pass muster, eat at your own risk! In the tote bag you receive at the entrance are some coupons, a schedule and a great booklet with recipes from all the chefs so even if you only come one day, you'll have recipes from the whole weekend.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-4375\" title=\"burak epir\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/burakepir.jpg\" alt=\"burak epir\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My favorite presentations were by chefs Burak Epir of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.pilitagrill.com/\">Pilita Mediterranean Turkish Grill\u003c/a> in San Carlos and Cindy Pawlcyn of \u003ca href=\"http://mustardsgrill.com/\">Mustard's Grill\u003c/a>. Epir showed off his kebab technique with a huge knife, and shared tips such as using a small sieve to filter stems and seeds from dried herbs. He used my favorite pepper, maras, in his recipe for Kilis kebab which also included lots of fresh parsley, the most commonly used fresh herb in Turkey.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-4376\" title=\"cindy pawlcyn\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/cindypawlcyn.jpg\" alt=\"cindy pawlcyn\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cindy Pawlcyn emphasized the importance of using the ripest produce, explaining it is better to substitute an ingredient than to use something that is not deliciously ripe. She also showed a technique of smashing hazelnuts with the side of a chef knife rather than chopping them to create a better and more uniform texture. Great tips, no matter what recipe you try.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Kilis kebab\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n10 tomatoes\u003cbr>\n2 poblano peppers\u003cbr>\n1 medium white onion, preferably sweet\u003cbr>\n1 bunch Italian parsley, chopped\u003cbr>\n1 Tablespoon salt\u003cbr>\n1/2 Tablespoon fresh ground pepper\u003cbr>\n1 Tablespoon Maras red pepper, also called Marash pepper\u003cbr>\n1/2 medium white onion, grated\u003cbr>\n2 pounds ground lamb, shoulder cut\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On a charcoal grill cook the tomatoes and pepper until well charred, remove the skins and finely dice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Also finely dice the onion and mix it with the chopped parsley. Add to the charred tomato and peppers and set aside. Cover and keep warm.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Prepare the kebab by adding salt, pepper, Maras red pepper and the grated onions to the ground lamb. Mix well. Make the meatballs and place on a skewer. Grill indirectly over the heat, until nice and juicy. Place the charred tomato and peppers on a plate and set the meat kebabs over it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Recipe reprinted courtesy of Sunset and chef Burak Epir\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"info": "What kind of no sabo word is Hyphenación? For us, it’s about living within a hyphenation. Like being a third-gen Mexican-American from the Texas border now living that Bay Area Chicano life. Like Xorje! Each week we bring together a couple of hyphenated Latinos to talk all about personal life choices: family, careers, relationships, belonging … everything is on the table. ",
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"info": "The Political Mind of Jerry Brown brings listeners the wisdom of the former Governor, Mayor, and presidential candidate. Scott Shafer interviewed Brown for more than 40 hours, covering the former governor's life and half-century in the political game – and Brown has some lessons he'd like to share. ",
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"info": "Our flagship program, helmed by Kai Ryssdal, examines what the day in money delivered, through stories, conversations, newsworthy numbers and more. Updated Monday through Friday at about 3:30 p.m. PT.",
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"mindshift": {
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"info": "The MindShift podcast explores the innovations in education that are shaping how kids learn. Hosts Ki Sung and Katrina Schwartz introduce listeners to educators, researchers, parents and students who are developing effective ways to improve how kids learn. We cover topics like how fed-up administrators are developing surprising tactics to deal with classroom disruptions; how listening to podcasts are helping kids develop reading skills; the consequences of overparenting; and why interdisciplinary learning can engage students on all ends of the traditional achievement spectrum. This podcast is part of the MindShift education site, a division of KQED News. KQED is an NPR/PBS member station based in San Francisco. You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>",
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"order": 12
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"info": "\u003cem>Morning Edition\u003c/em> takes listeners around the country and the world with multi-faceted stories and commentaries every weekday. Hosts Steve Inskeep, David Greene and Rachel Martin bring you the latest breaking news and features to prepare you for the day.",
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"onourwatch": {
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"tagline": "Deeply-reported investigative journalism",
"info": "For decades, the process for how police police themselves has been inconsistent – if not opaque. In some states, like California, these proceedings were completely hidden. After a new police transparency law unsealed scores of internal affairs files, our reporters set out to examine these cases and the shadow world of police discipline. On Our Watch brings listeners into the rooms where officers are questioned and witnesses are interrogated to find out who this system is really protecting. Is it the officers, or the public they've sworn to serve?",
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"info": "Our weekly podcast explores how the media 'sausage' is made, casts an incisive eye on fluctuations in the marketplace of ideas, and examines threats to the freedom of information and expression in America and abroad. For one hour a week, the show tries to lift the veil from the process of \"making media,\" especially news media, because it's through that lens that we see the world and the world sees us",
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"perspectives": {
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"order": 14
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"info": "The economy explained. Imagine you could call up a friend and say, Meet me at the bar and tell me what's going on with the economy. Now imagine that's actually a fun evening.",
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"title": "Political Breakdown",
"tagline": "Politics from a personal perspective",
"info": "Political Breakdown is a new series that explores the political intersection of California and the nation. Each week hosts Scott Shafer and Marisa Lagos are joined with a new special guest to unpack politics -- with personality — and offer an insider’s glimpse at how politics happens.",
"airtime": "THU 6:30pm-7pm",
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"possible": {
"id": "possible",
"title": "Possible",
"info": "Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.",
"airtime": "SUN 2pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Possible-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.possible.fm/",
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"source": "Possible"
},
"link": "/radio/program/possible",
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},
"pri-the-world": {
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"title": "PRI's The World: Latest Edition",
"info": "Each weekday, host Marco Werman and his team of producers bring you the world's most interesting stories in an hour of radio that reminds us just how small our planet really is.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 2pm-3pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/The-World-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
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},
"radiolab": {
"id": "radiolab",
"title": "Radiolab",
"info": "A two-time Peabody Award-winner, Radiolab is an investigation told through sounds and stories, and centered around one big idea. In the Radiolab world, information sounds like music and science and culture collide. Hosted by Jad Abumrad and Robert Krulwich, the show is designed for listeners who demand skepticism, but appreciate wonder. WNYC Studios is the producer of other leading podcasts including Freakonomics Radio, Death, Sex & Money, On the Media and many more.",
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},
"reveal": {
"id": "reveal",
"title": "Reveal",
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