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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_52361\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/Aidells.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/Aidells.jpg\" alt=\"Bruce Aidells. Photo: Luca Trovato\" title=\"Bruce Aidells. Photo: Luca Trovato\" width=\"400\" height=\"600\" class=\"size-full wp-image-52361\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bruce Aidells. Photo: Luca Trovato\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.aidells.com/our-way/aidells-story\">Bruce Aidells\u003c/a> deserves the title of “King of Meat” after years of crafting delectable meaty goods and founding an eponymous sausage company in 1983. Aidells is widely known as a prolific expert on everything related to sausages, meat, salumi, and charcuterie. His story has ties to the Bay Area, where he has lived for many years. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The longtime success of Aidells sausages marked a huge shift leading up to the late 1970s, when Americans bought sausage as an occasional breakfast staple with little variety. Now you can find creative sausage links that show Aidells’ culinary craft: chicken apple, artichoke garlic, or even pineapple bacon fly off the shelves at Costco and grocery outlets. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 2002, Aidells left the sausage company to pursue recipe consulting and writing work. The Bay Area resident is an award-winning author and has a new hefty cookbook, \u003ca href=\"http://www.bookpassage.com/book/9780547241418\">\u003cstrong>The Great Meat Cookbook: Everything you Need to Know to Buy and Cook Today's Meat\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, $40). Aidells ably breaks down meat cuts and labels, and gives budget-friendly advice on using under appreciated (and usually cheaper) parts. He told me that this may his last book; readers may hope not after diving into creative recipes that include lusty meatloaf, beer broth marinated hanger steak and braised Montana coffee-marinated bison short ribs. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Aidells got his start as the first chef and co-owner at the popular \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2006/12/24/caramel-cake-the-recipe/\">Poulet\u003c/a> restaurant in Berkeley in 1979 and is married to chef \u003ca href=\"http://www.boulevardrestaurant.com/#info-chef\">Nancy Oakes\u003c/a> of Boulevard and Prospect fame. I caught up with Aidells after a recent book signing event in San Francisco.\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>\u003cbr>\nBay Area Bites: Your wife Nancy Oakes is a chef-restaurateur. How does that play out in your home kitchen? Who decides what to cook?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nAidells: I’m an ex-chef and she’s a current chef, so we’re not used to people telling us what to do. We do things our own way. Even how a piece of bread gets sliced is debated: I would cut it perpendicular and she’s going to cut on a bias. If we have company over, she’ll plan the meal and I’ll cook the meat. For Thanksgiving, she cooked and I determined when the turkey was done. I carved the turkey, which I do every year. Unfortunately, neither of us know how to cook for small groups so we make a lot of food. Nancy’s the coordinating chef for \u003ca href=\"http://www.mowsf.org/\">Meals on Wheels\u003c/a> and we usually do three or four auction items where people come to our house or on a boat. We usually raise about $100,000-$200,000.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What are you most passionate about food-wise?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nAidells: Besides white truffles? (laughs). With sausage ingredients and spices, there is always something interesting to learn. For this cookbook, I learned a lot about spices. I’m really passionate about \u003ca href=\"http://moroccanfood.about.com/od/maindishes/r/ras_el_hanout_recipe.htm\">ras el hanout\u003c/a> [a Moroccan spice blend]. We have access to one that comes from Morocco via \u003ca href=\"http://www.pacgourmet.com/\">Pacific Gourmet\u003c/a>. You have to grind it yourself and there's something like 20 ingredients in it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I’ve been lucky enough to have some of the best Iberian ham and prosciutto. At the book event lunch my wife did at \u003ca href=\"http://www.prospectsf.com/\">Prospect\u003c/a> last Saturday, we did Rosa di Parma, ham, and a breadstick with prosciutto wrapped around it. Also there was escarole and beans with prosciutto. It was really over the top.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There’s a guy in Iowa with \u003ca href=\"http://laquercia.us/\">La Quercia\u003c/a> who has access to the \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tamworth_%28pig%29\">Tamworth\u003c/a> breed of pig, one of the few pigs that’s known historically as a bacon pig. Tamworth is a leaner pig but with amazing flavor. He feeds some on acorn at the end. I know him personally. That’s all he talks about is his ham.\u003cbr>\n \u003cstrong>\u003cbr>\nBay Area Bites: Who are your mentors?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nAidells: My mother is a negative mentor, which she hates for me to say. In the 1950s you had an entire cuisine by soup and my mother embraced that. There was Lipton onion soup meatloaf and casseroles with cream of mushroom soup. When I went to college, I asked my mom to send me her recipes. I looked at them and said “Nah.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My roommate had a \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/James-Beard/e/B000APEE8Y/ref=ntt_athr_dp_pel_1\">James Beard cookbook\u003c/a> that was falling apart and written for home cooks. I got a lot of use out of that one. Then my roommate my senior year got us a subscription to Gourmet. I went off to be a graduate student and the Time Life Foods of the World were around. I cooked through all 35 and learned a tremendous amount. Those books gave you the actual ingredients and let you go find it on your own. That was a great breakthrough.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s so cliché but I learned a lot watching \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/food/juliachild/\">Julia Child\u003c/a>: how to hold a knife, and to always tuck my finger. Even if I watch the old shows today, I still learn stuff. \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/food/jacquespepin/\">Jacques Pépin\u003c/a> La Methode and La Technique taught me. Actual La Methode showed me how to turn a fridge into a sausage smoker. I still have the fridges. They are historical. My wife hates them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I’ve been to Italy 30 times and whenever we travel with \u003ca href=\"http://www.faithwillinger.com/\">Faith Willinger\u003c/a>, it’s like you’re family. The Italian recipes I have are the best.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vikram_Vij\">Vikram Vij\u003c/a> is the best Indian restaurateur in North America. His wife is opening a branch in Seattle soon. Vij’s recipes and books are really spot on.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What are the lessons you’ve learned on the way?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nAidells: I credit a lot of my success more to relationships, and to treating people in a straightforward and fair way. My style tends to be blunt, where I’m not holding back and always putting my cards on the table. I still have relationships from the first sausage sale I made 30 years ago. That really builds a brand: when people know you care about your product and about who’s eating it. I’d like to think that comes through in the cookbooks as well. I’m trying to help people learn, which I suppose comes from my science and teaching background. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Do you have any favorite Bay Area food/drink spots?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nAidells: We do most of our eating in Healdsburg on the weekend. Our favorite place is the \u003ca href=\"http://www.farmhouseinn.com/restaurant-0/\">Farmhouse\u003c/a>. The chef has become our friend and I think he is the best chef in the county. He usually takes January off and goes to Asia, which shows how serious he is.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.scopahealdsburg.com/\">Scopa\u003c/a> is another favorite from our friends Ari and Dawnelise. They also own \u003ca href=\"http://campo-fina.com/\">Campo Fina\u003c/a> right around the corner, which has a bocce court. We also go up to \u003ca href=\"http://www.diavolo.org/\">Diavolo\u003c/a> in Geyerserville.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We shop at Mexican markets like Lola’s. Some of them have taco stands in the back and they’re pretty good. I like to get Salvadorian food in Santa Rosa -- on Sebastopol Street. The trucks are parked in front of a restaurant and have a covered patio. There’s great tamales and if you spend $10 you’ve bought way too much food. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Big John’s grocery store and Taylor’s Refresher are both great. My wife’s a huge supporter of \u003ca href=\"http://www.thegardener.com/pages.php?pageid=5\">The Gardener\u003c/a>. I like to say that she single-handedly keeps them in business. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What are you working on these days? What’s an average workday like? What’s it like writing a cookbook?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nAidells: My typical day starts around ten. Around four hours are taken up with email and Facebook. I will respond to messages, which are usually from some sort of media exposure or recipe questions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is my last book for sure. (Laughs.) \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/The-Great-Meat-Cookbook-Everything/dp/0547241410/\">The Great Meat Cookbook\u003c/a> was a big book and involved a lot of research and work. It made a tremendous amount of sense to do books when I was in the sausage company and really helped the brand. Now, I don’t know how to measure the success. The actual writing is such a small part of it. There are sales and publicity efforts. I do strongly believe the best selling is done through word of mouth. That’s how I succeeded with sausage. That’s how it works with books. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Where I really do the best financially is working with food companies as a consultant. I did some Duroc ham and Vande Rose bacon recipes. I get a little royalty from those. \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_52361\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/Aidells.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/Aidells.jpg\" alt=\"Bruce Aidells. Photo: Luca Trovato\" title=\"Bruce Aidells. Photo: Luca Trovato\" width=\"400\" height=\"600\" class=\"size-full wp-image-52361\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bruce Aidells. Photo: Luca Trovato\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.aidells.com/our-way/aidells-story\">Bruce Aidells\u003c/a> deserves the title of “King of Meat” after years of crafting delectable meaty goods and founding an eponymous sausage company in 1983. Aidells is widely known as a prolific expert on everything related to sausages, meat, salumi, and charcuterie. His story has ties to the Bay Area, where he has lived for many years. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The longtime success of Aidells sausages marked a huge shift leading up to the late 1970s, when Americans bought sausage as an occasional breakfast staple with little variety. Now you can find creative sausage links that show Aidells’ culinary craft: chicken apple, artichoke garlic, or even pineapple bacon fly off the shelves at Costco and grocery outlets. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 2002, Aidells left the sausage company to pursue recipe consulting and writing work. The Bay Area resident is an award-winning author and has a new hefty cookbook, \u003ca href=\"http://www.bookpassage.com/book/9780547241418\">\u003cstrong>The Great Meat Cookbook: Everything you Need to Know to Buy and Cook Today's Meat\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, $40). Aidells ably breaks down meat cuts and labels, and gives budget-friendly advice on using under appreciated (and usually cheaper) parts. He told me that this may his last book; readers may hope not after diving into creative recipes that include lusty meatloaf, beer broth marinated hanger steak and braised Montana coffee-marinated bison short ribs. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Aidells got his start as the first chef and co-owner at the popular \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2006/12/24/caramel-cake-the-recipe/\">Poulet\u003c/a> restaurant in Berkeley in 1979 and is married to chef \u003ca href=\"http://www.boulevardrestaurant.com/#info-chef\">Nancy Oakes\u003c/a> of Boulevard and Prospect fame. I caught up with Aidells after a recent book signing event in San Francisco.\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>\u003cbr>\nBay Area Bites: Your wife Nancy Oakes is a chef-restaurateur. How does that play out in your home kitchen? Who decides what to cook?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nAidells: I’m an ex-chef and she’s a current chef, so we’re not used to people telling us what to do. We do things our own way. Even how a piece of bread gets sliced is debated: I would cut it perpendicular and she’s going to cut on a bias. If we have company over, she’ll plan the meal and I’ll cook the meat. For Thanksgiving, she cooked and I determined when the turkey was done. I carved the turkey, which I do every year. Unfortunately, neither of us know how to cook for small groups so we make a lot of food. Nancy’s the coordinating chef for \u003ca href=\"http://www.mowsf.org/\">Meals on Wheels\u003c/a> and we usually do three or four auction items where people come to our house or on a boat. We usually raise about $100,000-$200,000.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What are you most passionate about food-wise?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nAidells: Besides white truffles? (laughs). With sausage ingredients and spices, there is always something interesting to learn. For this cookbook, I learned a lot about spices. I’m really passionate about \u003ca href=\"http://moroccanfood.about.com/od/maindishes/r/ras_el_hanout_recipe.htm\">ras el hanout\u003c/a> [a Moroccan spice blend]. We have access to one that comes from Morocco via \u003ca href=\"http://www.pacgourmet.com/\">Pacific Gourmet\u003c/a>. You have to grind it yourself and there's something like 20 ingredients in it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I’ve been lucky enough to have some of the best Iberian ham and prosciutto. At the book event lunch my wife did at \u003ca href=\"http://www.prospectsf.com/\">Prospect\u003c/a> last Saturday, we did Rosa di Parma, ham, and a breadstick with prosciutto wrapped around it. Also there was escarole and beans with prosciutto. It was really over the top.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There’s a guy in Iowa with \u003ca href=\"http://laquercia.us/\">La Quercia\u003c/a> who has access to the \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tamworth_%28pig%29\">Tamworth\u003c/a> breed of pig, one of the few pigs that’s known historically as a bacon pig. Tamworth is a leaner pig but with amazing flavor. He feeds some on acorn at the end. I know him personally. That’s all he talks about is his ham.\u003cbr>\n \u003cstrong>\u003cbr>\nBay Area Bites: Who are your mentors?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nAidells: My mother is a negative mentor, which she hates for me to say. In the 1950s you had an entire cuisine by soup and my mother embraced that. There was Lipton onion soup meatloaf and casseroles with cream of mushroom soup. When I went to college, I asked my mom to send me her recipes. I looked at them and said “Nah.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My roommate had a \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/James-Beard/e/B000APEE8Y/ref=ntt_athr_dp_pel_1\">James Beard cookbook\u003c/a> that was falling apart and written for home cooks. I got a lot of use out of that one. Then my roommate my senior year got us a subscription to Gourmet. I went off to be a graduate student and the Time Life Foods of the World were around. I cooked through all 35 and learned a tremendous amount. Those books gave you the actual ingredients and let you go find it on your own. That was a great breakthrough.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s so cliché but I learned a lot watching \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/food/juliachild/\">Julia Child\u003c/a>: how to hold a knife, and to always tuck my finger. Even if I watch the old shows today, I still learn stuff. \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/food/jacquespepin/\">Jacques Pépin\u003c/a> La Methode and La Technique taught me. Actual La Methode showed me how to turn a fridge into a sausage smoker. I still have the fridges. They are historical. My wife hates them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I’ve been to Italy 30 times and whenever we travel with \u003ca href=\"http://www.faithwillinger.com/\">Faith Willinger\u003c/a>, it’s like you’re family. The Italian recipes I have are the best.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vikram_Vij\">Vikram Vij\u003c/a> is the best Indian restaurateur in North America. His wife is opening a branch in Seattle soon. Vij’s recipes and books are really spot on.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What are the lessons you’ve learned on the way?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nAidells: I credit a lot of my success more to relationships, and to treating people in a straightforward and fair way. My style tends to be blunt, where I’m not holding back and always putting my cards on the table. I still have relationships from the first sausage sale I made 30 years ago. That really builds a brand: when people know you care about your product and about who’s eating it. I’d like to think that comes through in the cookbooks as well. I’m trying to help people learn, which I suppose comes from my science and teaching background. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Do you have any favorite Bay Area food/drink spots?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nAidells: We do most of our eating in Healdsburg on the weekend. Our favorite place is the \u003ca href=\"http://www.farmhouseinn.com/restaurant-0/\">Farmhouse\u003c/a>. The chef has become our friend and I think he is the best chef in the county. He usually takes January off and goes to Asia, which shows how serious he is.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.scopahealdsburg.com/\">Scopa\u003c/a> is another favorite from our friends Ari and Dawnelise. They also own \u003ca href=\"http://campo-fina.com/\">Campo Fina\u003c/a> right around the corner, which has a bocce court. We also go up to \u003ca href=\"http://www.diavolo.org/\">Diavolo\u003c/a> in Geyerserville.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We shop at Mexican markets like Lola’s. Some of them have taco stands in the back and they’re pretty good. I like to get Salvadorian food in Santa Rosa -- on Sebastopol Street. The trucks are parked in front of a restaurant and have a covered patio. There’s great tamales and if you spend $10 you’ve bought way too much food. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Big John’s grocery store and Taylor’s Refresher are both great. My wife’s a huge supporter of \u003ca href=\"http://www.thegardener.com/pages.php?pageid=5\">The Gardener\u003c/a>. I like to say that she single-handedly keeps them in business. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What are you working on these days? What’s an average workday like? What’s it like writing a cookbook?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nAidells: My typical day starts around ten. Around four hours are taken up with email and Facebook. I will respond to messages, which are usually from some sort of media exposure or recipe questions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is my last book for sure. (Laughs.) \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/The-Great-Meat-Cookbook-Everything/dp/0547241410/\">The Great Meat Cookbook\u003c/a> was a big book and involved a lot of research and work. It made a tremendous amount of sense to do books when I was in the sausage company and really helped the brand. Now, I don’t know how to measure the success. The actual writing is such a small part of it. There are sales and publicity efforts. I do strongly believe the best selling is done through word of mouth. That’s how I succeeded with sausage. That’s how it works with books. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Where I really do the best financially is working with food companies as a consultant. I did some Duroc ham and Vande Rose bacon recipes. I get a little royalty from those. \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Jacques-P%C3%A9pin-New-Complete-Techniques/dp/1579129110\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/JPbookcover400.jpg\" alt=\"Jacques Pepin Techniques book cover\" title=\"Jacques Pepin Techniques book cover\" width=\"400\" height=\"464\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-52300\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As an English major and culinary school grad, the idea of consommé both enchants and terrifies me. In stacks of novels, elegant ladies sup on consommé served in fragile bone china bowls before traipsing across polished floors to wilt onto fainting couches. And because the ideal consommé contains nothing other than exquisitely clear and sublimely seasoned liquid (possibly served with equally exquisite garnishes, like airy quenelles or tiny raviolini) it's basically the most refined soup ever. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That's my romantic ideal of consommé. And it's one which jockeys impossibly with the complex reality handed to me in culinary school. There was so much emphasis on breaking (yet not breaking) the clarifying \"raft,\" the insistence on never allowing the stock to boil, and the overwhelming feeling that if you looked cross-eyed at your consommé you'd ruin it. As a result, during those nine sweaty months, I both longed for and dreaded making this genteel dish. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Enter \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Jacques-P%C3%A9pin-New-Complete-Techniques/dp/1579129110\">\u003cem>Jacques Pépin Complete New Techniques\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, which, weighing in at close to six pounds, is a serious book for serious cooks. This hefty addition to my bookshelf (courtesy a review copy from my editor at KQED's Bay Area Bites) is Jacques' latest culinary tome. It's an updated version of his 2001 \u003cem>Complete Techniques\u003c/em>, which was itself a compilation of \u003cem>La Technique\u003c/em> (1976) and \u003cem>La Methode\u003c/em> (1979), and it's admittedly one that filled me with skepticism. Being more of a hands-on person when it comes to learning, I didn't think I could truly learn techniques from the pages of a book -- even one from a culinary master such as Jacques Pépin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The burnished amber liquid now resting in my refrigerator is proof that I am wrong.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/consume500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/consume500.jpg\" alt=\"Consomme\" title=\"Consomme\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-52302\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>First of all, the recipe and technique for consommé is found in the book's \"The Basics\" section, which gave me the extra fillip I needed to attempt it. Having it there was as if Jacques was telling me, \"See, it's basic, you can make the elegant soup of your literary dreams, Stephanie, I believe in you!\" Secondly, it really is a \"throw everything in the pot, stir, bring to a boil and wait\" sort of recipe, which was unexpected. It's true that dealing with the raft -- the flotsam that forms during the cooking process -- is slightly tricky, but not nearly as painstaking as I thought it would be, especially since you ladle all the consommé through a dampened cheese cloth-lined sieve for additional straining.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As to how it tasted, well, it was delicate but not bland. Full of flavor, but not overpowering. It was all I dreamed of and more.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A few notes: the recipe called for \"diced celery leaves,\" but not knowing how to dice leaves, I went for a rough chop. Also, in their efforts to be helpful, more and more grocery stores are selling their celery already topped (without the leaves) and giving us only the hearts. I scrounged up just enough for this recipe, but be forewarned.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'm was so bolstered by my consommé success that I actually considered diving into the book's Presentation section and flicking out a few consommé-worthy garnishes with my paring knife, like the fluted mushrooms or carrot butterflies. However, I controlled myself and moved on to another technique-driven recipe: scrambled eggs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/eggs500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/eggs500.jpg\" alt=\"Scrambled Eggs\" title=\"Scrambled Eggs\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-52303\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Unlike my consommé foray, I know how to make scrambled eggs, and my usual way of making them is using a wooden spoon to scrape the beaten eggs and milk in a butter-slicked skillet over moderate heat. I will be honest and admit right off that I do like my way, which yields a significantly larger curd and a far less soft and creamy texture, but I still decided to try Jacques' essentially French method. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The most surprising part of the technique was not using a whisk to keep the curd small, nor was it adding 1/4 cup raw beaten egg and the cream at the end, it was replacing my low-sided skillet with a saucepan. This has the effect of holding in the heat when the raw egg is added off the burner, which, in turn keeps the mixture creamy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Between my creamy scrambled eggs with their sublimely small curd and pure consommé, tonight's dinner made me feel a bit like \u003ca href=\"http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/masterpiece/downtonabbey/season2_characters_mary.html\">Lady Mary Crawley\u003c/a>, eldest daughter of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/masterpiece/downtonabbey/season2_characters_robert.html\">Earl of Grantham\u003c/a>. (Point of order: \u003ca href=\"http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/masterpiece/downtonabbey/season2_characters_patmore.html\">Mrs. Patmore\u003c/a> would never send scrambled eggs up to the \u003ca href=\"http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/masterpiece/downtonabbey/index.html\">Downton Abbey\u003c/a> dinner table, and consommé was only ever an early course, not one half of the main. Horrors!)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I quite like Jacques' technique of making scrambled eggs and can definitely see myself using it when I want a fancier breakfast, a soothing solitary dinner, or have a spare white truffle lying around. (No way I'd waste that sucker on \u003cem>my\u003c/em> version of scrambled eggs.) But I'll probably go back to breaking out my skillet and wooden spoon on the days I have my three-year-old tearing through the kitchen bellowing about trains and LEGO. That said, I'm making the consommé in bulk and freezing it for those emergency nights I need to dine like a Lady.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Thanks, Jacques.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Jacques-P%C3%A9pin-New-Complete-Techniques/dp/1579129110\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/JPbookcover400.jpg\" alt=\"Jacques Pepin Techniques book cover\" title=\"Jacques Pepin Techniques book cover\" width=\"400\" height=\"464\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-52300\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As an English major and culinary school grad, the idea of consommé both enchants and terrifies me. In stacks of novels, elegant ladies sup on consommé served in fragile bone china bowls before traipsing across polished floors to wilt onto fainting couches. And because the ideal consommé contains nothing other than exquisitely clear and sublimely seasoned liquid (possibly served with equally exquisite garnishes, like airy quenelles or tiny raviolini) it's basically the most refined soup ever. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That's my romantic ideal of consommé. And it's one which jockeys impossibly with the complex reality handed to me in culinary school. There was so much emphasis on breaking (yet not breaking) the clarifying \"raft,\" the insistence on never allowing the stock to boil, and the overwhelming feeling that if you looked cross-eyed at your consommé you'd ruin it. As a result, during those nine sweaty months, I both longed for and dreaded making this genteel dish. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Enter \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Jacques-P%C3%A9pin-New-Complete-Techniques/dp/1579129110\">\u003cem>Jacques Pépin Complete New Techniques\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, which, weighing in at close to six pounds, is a serious book for serious cooks. This hefty addition to my bookshelf (courtesy a review copy from my editor at KQED's Bay Area Bites) is Jacques' latest culinary tome. It's an updated version of his 2001 \u003cem>Complete Techniques\u003c/em>, which was itself a compilation of \u003cem>La Technique\u003c/em> (1976) and \u003cem>La Methode\u003c/em> (1979), and it's admittedly one that filled me with skepticism. Being more of a hands-on person when it comes to learning, I didn't think I could truly learn techniques from the pages of a book -- even one from a culinary master such as Jacques Pépin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The burnished amber liquid now resting in my refrigerator is proof that I am wrong.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/consume500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/consume500.jpg\" alt=\"Consomme\" title=\"Consomme\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-52302\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>First of all, the recipe and technique for consommé is found in the book's \"The Basics\" section, which gave me the extra fillip I needed to attempt it. Having it there was as if Jacques was telling me, \"See, it's basic, you can make the elegant soup of your literary dreams, Stephanie, I believe in you!\" Secondly, it really is a \"throw everything in the pot, stir, bring to a boil and wait\" sort of recipe, which was unexpected. It's true that dealing with the raft -- the flotsam that forms during the cooking process -- is slightly tricky, but not nearly as painstaking as I thought it would be, especially since you ladle all the consommé through a dampened cheese cloth-lined sieve for additional straining.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As to how it tasted, well, it was delicate but not bland. Full of flavor, but not overpowering. It was all I dreamed of and more.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A few notes: the recipe called for \"diced celery leaves,\" but not knowing how to dice leaves, I went for a rough chop. Also, in their efforts to be helpful, more and more grocery stores are selling their celery already topped (without the leaves) and giving us only the hearts. I scrounged up just enough for this recipe, but be forewarned.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'm was so bolstered by my consommé success that I actually considered diving into the book's Presentation section and flicking out a few consommé-worthy garnishes with my paring knife, like the fluted mushrooms or carrot butterflies. However, I controlled myself and moved on to another technique-driven recipe: scrambled eggs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/eggs500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/eggs500.jpg\" alt=\"Scrambled Eggs\" title=\"Scrambled Eggs\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-52303\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Unlike my consommé foray, I know how to make scrambled eggs, and my usual way of making them is using a wooden spoon to scrape the beaten eggs and milk in a butter-slicked skillet over moderate heat. I will be honest and admit right off that I do like my way, which yields a significantly larger curd and a far less soft and creamy texture, but I still decided to try Jacques' essentially French method. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The most surprising part of the technique was not using a whisk to keep the curd small, nor was it adding 1/4 cup raw beaten egg and the cream at the end, it was replacing my low-sided skillet with a saucepan. This has the effect of holding in the heat when the raw egg is added off the burner, which, in turn keeps the mixture creamy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Between my creamy scrambled eggs with their sublimely small curd and pure consommé, tonight's dinner made me feel a bit like \u003ca href=\"http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/masterpiece/downtonabbey/season2_characters_mary.html\">Lady Mary Crawley\u003c/a>, eldest daughter of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/masterpiece/downtonabbey/season2_characters_robert.html\">Earl of Grantham\u003c/a>. (Point of order: \u003ca href=\"http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/masterpiece/downtonabbey/season2_characters_patmore.html\">Mrs. Patmore\u003c/a> would never send scrambled eggs up to the \u003ca href=\"http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/masterpiece/downtonabbey/index.html\">Downton Abbey\u003c/a> dinner table, and consommé was only ever an early course, not one half of the main. Horrors!)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I quite like Jacques' technique of making scrambled eggs and can definitely see myself using it when I want a fancier breakfast, a soothing solitary dinner, or have a spare white truffle lying around. (No way I'd waste that sucker on \u003cem>my\u003c/em> version of scrambled eggs.) But I'll probably go back to breaking out my skillet and wooden spoon on the days I have my three-year-old tearing through the kitchen bellowing about trains and LEGO. That said, I'm making the consommé in bulk and freezing it for those emergency nights I need to dine like a Lady.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Thanks, Jacques.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>Small food business partners Valerie Luu & Katie Kwan of \u003ca href=\"http://www.ricepaperscissors.com/\">Rice Paper Scissors\u003c/a>, a pop-up cafe serving Vietnamese food located in San Francisco, share their vision: integrating their eastern culinary heritage with the trending western street food culture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_51970\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/rice-paper-scissors560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/rice-paper-scissors560.jpg\" alt=\"Rice Paper Scissors - Valerie Luu and Katie Kwan\" title=\"Rice Paper Scissors - Valerie Luu and Katie Kwan\" width=\"560\" height=\"308\" class=\"size-full wp-image-51970\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Rice Paper Scissors - Valerie Luu and Katie Kwan\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Information:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.ricepaperscissors.com/\">Rice Paper Scissors\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/ricepapersf\">@ricepapersf\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/ricepaperscissors\">Rice Paper Scissors\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Small food business partners Valerie Luu & Katie Kwan of \u003ca href=\"http://www.ricepaperscissors.com/\">Rice Paper Scissors\u003c/a>, a pop-up cafe serving Vietnamese food located in San Francisco, share their vision: integrating their eastern culinary heritage with the trending western street food culture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_51970\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/rice-paper-scissors560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/rice-paper-scissors560.jpg\" alt=\"Rice Paper Scissors - Valerie Luu and Katie Kwan\" title=\"Rice Paper Scissors - Valerie Luu and Katie Kwan\" width=\"560\" height=\"308\" class=\"size-full wp-image-51970\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Rice Paper Scissors - Valerie Luu and Katie Kwan\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Information:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.ricepaperscissors.com/\">Rice Paper Scissors\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/ricepapersf\">@ricepapersf\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/ricepaperscissors\">Rice Paper Scissors\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "Q&A with Pastry Chef and Chocolate Expert Yigit Pura",
"title": "Q&A with Pastry Chef and Chocolate Expert Yigit Pura",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_51713\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/BAB_400Yigitc-Frankeny-Images.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/BAB_400Yigitc-Frankeny-Images.jpg\" alt=\"Yigit Pura. Photo courtesy of Frankeny Images.\" title=\"Yigit Pura. Photo courtesy of Frankeny Images.\" width=\"400\" height=\"537\" class=\"size-full wp-image-51713\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Yigit Pura. Photo courtesy of Frankeny Images.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>After winning the first season of \u003ca href=\"http://www.bravotv.com/top-chef-just-desserts/bio/yigit-pura\">Top Chef Desserts\u003c/a>, pastry dynamo Yigit Pura set his sights on opening his own \u003ca href=\"http://www.toutsweetsf.com/\">Tout Sweet Pâtisserie\u003c/a>. The sweet shop is full of treats from caramels, croissants, macarons (named after his favorite folks, including 7x7 editor Chloe Harris Frankeny), marshmallows, cakes and other confitures and marks a partnership with Taste Catering’s co-owners, MeMe Pederson and Janet Griggs. \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/YigitPura\">Pura\u003c/a> has a book in the works and was recently a spokesperson for the \u003ca href=\"http://www.chocolateadventurecontest.com/Inspiration.aspx\">Chocolate Adventure Contest from Scharffen Berger®\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pura started making sweets as a tyke in Turkey, where he would spoon up dark caramel with his mother. By age 20, he was training in San Francisco and headed east for stints at Le Cirque 2000, The Four Seasons and Daniel. That led to a promotion as executive pastry chef for Daniel Boulud in Las Vegas, and he eventually returned to SF to work for \u003ca href=\"http://www.tastecatering.com/\">Taste Catering\u003c/a>. Bay Area Bites caught up with Pura recently and his comments have been edited for clarity and length. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: How did Tout Sweet Pâtisserie come about?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nYigit Pura: It's been a twelve-year dream of mine. I've been really blessed to create something so wonderful in San Francisco, a city which I love. Though we opened two months ago, we are quickly growing and adding on different legs. We just started our celebration cakes and our wedding cakes, where I get to consult with people and create a one of a kind cake for each guest. This is truly a treat for a pastry chef.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: And your book?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nYigit Pura: One would think I have ample free time... opening a store, writing a book. But this has been so much fun. It's titled \"Sweet Alchemy.\" I wanted to break down the barriers for intimidation which people have when it comes to making really special desserts and show people that they can create really wonderful desserts at home, given they can be patient, follow some simple science, and of course put lots of love in it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Who are your mentors?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nYigit Pura: Farmers, because they remind me to be humble in what I do, and respect what nature gives us. Our clients at Tout Sweet, because their constant desire for a great product inspires me to create every day. Oh, and of course my dog Maui. He teaches me to do everything with love, every single day.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What are the best and worst things about being a chef and business owner?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nYigit Pura: Ask any parent who just had their first child. Their answer will be the same as mine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: You are relatively young yet appear to be a success. What are the lessons you’ve learned on the way?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nYigit Pura: Success. Hmmm. I think success is the process. I wouldn't ever want to consider myself successful, I think it's the drive to be never fully satisfied with everything I've created and gathered is what pushes me every day. But I can't lie, I do love seeing people’s faces as they get giddy with excitement when they look at the products in our store, and more so when they enjoy them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Do you have any favorite Bay Area food spots?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nYigit Pura: \u003ca href=\"http://ericrestaurant.com/\">Eric's Chinese\u003c/a> is great. It's between my kitchen and my boyfriend’s house. Given my long hours it's a magical place. Other than that, I still love going to the Ferry Building on a Saturday before 8am, before the crowds get there, so I can buy produce for Tout Sweet, and enjoy a coffee and sausage sandwich by the bay. It's the small things.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Where do you think the U.S. is for appreciation of other cultures?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nYigit Pura: I think the U.S. has done a great job at celebrating other cultures’ cuisines. Culinary options -- from Ethiopian to Korean to Indian -- are readily available in cities across the United States. Challenging yourself to try different cuisines is important. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Have you ever experienced discrimination in the kitchen?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nYigit Pura: High-end, fine-dining kitchens tend to be really high-testosterone, macho working environments. As an openly gay chef, I had to work very hard to earn respect in New York kitchens early in my career. However, whether you are gay or straight, Muslim, Christian or Buddhist, people love food and I’ve found that is a great homogenizing point. People love desserts and it’s a great way to break the ice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_51714\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/BAB_ScharffenBerger.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/BAB_ScharffenBerger.jpg\" alt=\"Chloe’s Chili-infused Mudslides. Image courtesy of Scharffen Berger\" title=\"Chloe’s Chili-infused Mudslides. Image courtesy of Scharffen Berger\" width=\"560\" height=\"373\" class=\"size-full wp-image-51714\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chloe’s Chili-infused Mudslides. Image courtesy of Scharffen Berger\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Tell us about the Chocolate Adventure Contest. There are ingredients that are definitely different -- any tips for diving in for consumers?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nYigit Pura: The Chocolate Adventure Contest asks bakers of any skill level to create an original sandwich cookie recipe using at least one Scharffen Berger chocolate product and at least one of twelve predetermined “adventure ingredients.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When it comes to matters of being inspired, I always tell people go with your instinct. And if you find it's a horrible pairing, at least you now know better. Sometimes the best combinations come out of lucky mistakes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In my \u003cstrong>Chloe’s Chili-infused Mudslides\u003c/strong> recipe I chose to pair two adventure ingredients: pasilla peppers and Scharffen Berger cocoa nibs, which give the chocolate a flirty and mature twist.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Recipe created by Yigit Pura\u003cbr>\nMakes 25 Sandwich Cookies \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>INGREDIENTS\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For The Ganache:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n4.3 oz. (1/2 cup) heavy cream, plus more for reconstituting\u003cbr>\n3 cloves\u003cbr>\n2 cinnamon sticks\u003cbr>\n1 dried pasilla chili\u003cbr>\n1/2 vanilla bean\u003cbr>\n6.9 oz. Scharffen Berger® 62% Cacao Semisweet Chocolate\u003cbr>\n0.7 oz. (1 1/2 tbs.) honey\u003cbr>\n4.3 oz. (1/2 cup) whole milk\u003cbr>\n1.6 oz. (3 tbs.) egg yolks\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For The Mudslides:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n9 oz. Scharffen Berger® 62% Cacao semisweet chocolate\u003cbr>\n1.6 oz. (3 tbs.) unsalted butter\u003cbr>\n3 large eggs, at room temperature\u003cbr>\n7.5 oz. (scarce 1 cup) granulated sugar\u003cbr>\n0.15 oz. (scarce 1 tsp.) vanilla extract\u003cbr>\n2.1 oz. (1/4 cup) all-purpose flour\u003cbr>\n0.7 oz. (1 1/2 tbs.) baking powder\u003cbr>\n4 oz. Scharffen Berger® 62% Cacao semisweet baking chunks, chopped\u003cbr>\n4.3 oz. (1/2 cup) dried cherries, chopped\u003cbr>\n4.3 oz. (1/2 cup) Scharffen Berger® roasted cacao nibs \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For The Shortbread:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n11.8 oz. (1 1/2 cups) all-purpose flour\u003cbr>\n3.4 oz. (1/3 cup plus 1/2 tsp.)\u003cbr>\nScharffen Berger® Unsweetened Natural Cocoa Powder\u003cbr>\n1.8 oz. (1/4 cup) almond flour\u003cbr>\n0.1 oz. (2/3 tsp.) table salt\u003cbr>\n9 oz. (1 cup and 2 tbs.) unsalted butter at room temperature\u003cbr>\n5.5 oz. (2/3 cup) powdered sugar, sifted\u003cbr>\n2 large eggs\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>PROCESS\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Make The Ganache:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nHeat cream in a small pan over medium heat. Add cloves, cinnamon sticks, chili and vanilla and let steep for 30 minutes. With a hand blender, buzz cream for a few seconds to fully bring out flavor. Strain and reconstitute with fresh cream to original 4.3 oz. to make up for loss in the infusing process.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Melt chocolate over a water bath. Reheat infused cream with honey and milk. Temper yolks into hot cream mixture and cook, stirring constantly, until thickened and coating the back of a spoon, or until 180° F (like crème anglaise). Once the custard is cooked, strain into a pitcher and add to melted chocolate in three additions, stirring with a spatula to emulsify. Cool ganache in a shallow dish, with plastic wrap directly on top, at room temperature for 2 to 3 hours until it’s the consistency of soft fudge. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Make The Mudslides:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nPreheat the oven at 325° F. Sift together all-purpose flour and baking powder. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Melt together chocolate and butter over a water bath and keep warm. In mixing bowl, combine eggs, sugar and vanilla extract and whisk to dissolve the sugar. Add melted chocolate and butter and mix to combine. Add sifted ingredients and stir gently to combine. Add chocolate chunks and dried tart cherries. Allow to set in the fridge for 30 minutes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Scoop onto baking trays and roll generously with the cacao nibs. Place on a cookie tray lined with parchment and bake until set, but still soft, about 6 minutes. Then rotate pan and bake 2 to 3 minutes longer. The cookies should still be soft to the touch and barely set. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Make The Shortbread:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nSift together all-purpose flour, cocoa powder, almond flour and salt. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a mixing bowl fitted with the paddle attachment, cream butter and powdered sugar until smooth. Add eggs one at a time, incorporating fully each time. Add sifted ingredients and mix slowly until smooth. Wrap dough in plastic and chill for at least 1 hour or until firm enough to roll out. Roll dough evenly until it’s about 1/8-inch thick. Cut out small discs of dough, using a 1/2-inch wide round cookie cutter and bake until set around the edges for 7 to 9 minutes. Allow to cool at room temperature. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Assemble The Sandwiches:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nPlace mudslides with the flat side up. Using a piping bag with a #3 plain round tip, pipe ganache drops on top of the cookie in an upward motion.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lightly dust the chocolate shortbread tops with powdered sugar, and gently put “hats” on top of the ganache. \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Mary Ladd interviews chef Yigit Pura, who shares what it's like to open a popular patisserie, write a cookbook and craft recipes. Pura is passionate about pastry and eager to get consumers interested in baking with unusual \"adventure\" ingredients. ",
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"description": "Mary Ladd interviews chef Yigit Pura, who shares what it's like to open a popular patisserie, write a cookbook and craft recipes. Pura is passionate about pastry and eager to get consumers interested in baking with unusual "adventure" ingredients. ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_51713\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/BAB_400Yigitc-Frankeny-Images.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/BAB_400Yigitc-Frankeny-Images.jpg\" alt=\"Yigit Pura. Photo courtesy of Frankeny Images.\" title=\"Yigit Pura. Photo courtesy of Frankeny Images.\" width=\"400\" height=\"537\" class=\"size-full wp-image-51713\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Yigit Pura. Photo courtesy of Frankeny Images.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>After winning the first season of \u003ca href=\"http://www.bravotv.com/top-chef-just-desserts/bio/yigit-pura\">Top Chef Desserts\u003c/a>, pastry dynamo Yigit Pura set his sights on opening his own \u003ca href=\"http://www.toutsweetsf.com/\">Tout Sweet Pâtisserie\u003c/a>. The sweet shop is full of treats from caramels, croissants, macarons (named after his favorite folks, including 7x7 editor Chloe Harris Frankeny), marshmallows, cakes and other confitures and marks a partnership with Taste Catering’s co-owners, MeMe Pederson and Janet Griggs. \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/YigitPura\">Pura\u003c/a> has a book in the works and was recently a spokesperson for the \u003ca href=\"http://www.chocolateadventurecontest.com/Inspiration.aspx\">Chocolate Adventure Contest from Scharffen Berger®\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pura started making sweets as a tyke in Turkey, where he would spoon up dark caramel with his mother. By age 20, he was training in San Francisco and headed east for stints at Le Cirque 2000, The Four Seasons and Daniel. That led to a promotion as executive pastry chef for Daniel Boulud in Las Vegas, and he eventually returned to SF to work for \u003ca href=\"http://www.tastecatering.com/\">Taste Catering\u003c/a>. Bay Area Bites caught up with Pura recently and his comments have been edited for clarity and length. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: How did Tout Sweet Pâtisserie come about?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nYigit Pura: It's been a twelve-year dream of mine. I've been really blessed to create something so wonderful in San Francisco, a city which I love. Though we opened two months ago, we are quickly growing and adding on different legs. We just started our celebration cakes and our wedding cakes, where I get to consult with people and create a one of a kind cake for each guest. This is truly a treat for a pastry chef.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: And your book?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nYigit Pura: One would think I have ample free time... opening a store, writing a book. But this has been so much fun. It's titled \"Sweet Alchemy.\" I wanted to break down the barriers for intimidation which people have when it comes to making really special desserts and show people that they can create really wonderful desserts at home, given they can be patient, follow some simple science, and of course put lots of love in it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Who are your mentors?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nYigit Pura: Farmers, because they remind me to be humble in what I do, and respect what nature gives us. Our clients at Tout Sweet, because their constant desire for a great product inspires me to create every day. Oh, and of course my dog Maui. He teaches me to do everything with love, every single day.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What are the best and worst things about being a chef and business owner?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nYigit Pura: Ask any parent who just had their first child. Their answer will be the same as mine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: You are relatively young yet appear to be a success. What are the lessons you’ve learned on the way?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nYigit Pura: Success. Hmmm. I think success is the process. I wouldn't ever want to consider myself successful, I think it's the drive to be never fully satisfied with everything I've created and gathered is what pushes me every day. But I can't lie, I do love seeing people’s faces as they get giddy with excitement when they look at the products in our store, and more so when they enjoy them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Do you have any favorite Bay Area food spots?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nYigit Pura: \u003ca href=\"http://ericrestaurant.com/\">Eric's Chinese\u003c/a> is great. It's between my kitchen and my boyfriend’s house. Given my long hours it's a magical place. Other than that, I still love going to the Ferry Building on a Saturday before 8am, before the crowds get there, so I can buy produce for Tout Sweet, and enjoy a coffee and sausage sandwich by the bay. It's the small things.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Where do you think the U.S. is for appreciation of other cultures?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nYigit Pura: I think the U.S. has done a great job at celebrating other cultures’ cuisines. Culinary options -- from Ethiopian to Korean to Indian -- are readily available in cities across the United States. Challenging yourself to try different cuisines is important. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Have you ever experienced discrimination in the kitchen?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nYigit Pura: High-end, fine-dining kitchens tend to be really high-testosterone, macho working environments. As an openly gay chef, I had to work very hard to earn respect in New York kitchens early in my career. However, whether you are gay or straight, Muslim, Christian or Buddhist, people love food and I’ve found that is a great homogenizing point. People love desserts and it’s a great way to break the ice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_51714\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/BAB_ScharffenBerger.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/BAB_ScharffenBerger.jpg\" alt=\"Chloe’s Chili-infused Mudslides. Image courtesy of Scharffen Berger\" title=\"Chloe’s Chili-infused Mudslides. Image courtesy of Scharffen Berger\" width=\"560\" height=\"373\" class=\"size-full wp-image-51714\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chloe’s Chili-infused Mudslides. Image courtesy of Scharffen Berger\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Tell us about the Chocolate Adventure Contest. There are ingredients that are definitely different -- any tips for diving in for consumers?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nYigit Pura: The Chocolate Adventure Contest asks bakers of any skill level to create an original sandwich cookie recipe using at least one Scharffen Berger chocolate product and at least one of twelve predetermined “adventure ingredients.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When it comes to matters of being inspired, I always tell people go with your instinct. And if you find it's a horrible pairing, at least you now know better. Sometimes the best combinations come out of lucky mistakes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In my \u003cstrong>Chloe’s Chili-infused Mudslides\u003c/strong> recipe I chose to pair two adventure ingredients: pasilla peppers and Scharffen Berger cocoa nibs, which give the chocolate a flirty and mature twist.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Recipe created by Yigit Pura\u003cbr>\nMakes 25 Sandwich Cookies \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>INGREDIENTS\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For The Ganache:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n4.3 oz. (1/2 cup) heavy cream, plus more for reconstituting\u003cbr>\n3 cloves\u003cbr>\n2 cinnamon sticks\u003cbr>\n1 dried pasilla chili\u003cbr>\n1/2 vanilla bean\u003cbr>\n6.9 oz. Scharffen Berger® 62% Cacao Semisweet Chocolate\u003cbr>\n0.7 oz. (1 1/2 tbs.) honey\u003cbr>\n4.3 oz. (1/2 cup) whole milk\u003cbr>\n1.6 oz. (3 tbs.) egg yolks\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For The Mudslides:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n9 oz. Scharffen Berger® 62% Cacao semisweet chocolate\u003cbr>\n1.6 oz. (3 tbs.) unsalted butter\u003cbr>\n3 large eggs, at room temperature\u003cbr>\n7.5 oz. (scarce 1 cup) granulated sugar\u003cbr>\n0.15 oz. (scarce 1 tsp.) vanilla extract\u003cbr>\n2.1 oz. (1/4 cup) all-purpose flour\u003cbr>\n0.7 oz. (1 1/2 tbs.) baking powder\u003cbr>\n4 oz. Scharffen Berger® 62% Cacao semisweet baking chunks, chopped\u003cbr>\n4.3 oz. (1/2 cup) dried cherries, chopped\u003cbr>\n4.3 oz. (1/2 cup) Scharffen Berger® roasted cacao nibs \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For The Shortbread:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n11.8 oz. (1 1/2 cups) all-purpose flour\u003cbr>\n3.4 oz. (1/3 cup plus 1/2 tsp.)\u003cbr>\nScharffen Berger® Unsweetened Natural Cocoa Powder\u003cbr>\n1.8 oz. (1/4 cup) almond flour\u003cbr>\n0.1 oz. (2/3 tsp.) table salt\u003cbr>\n9 oz. (1 cup and 2 tbs.) unsalted butter at room temperature\u003cbr>\n5.5 oz. (2/3 cup) powdered sugar, sifted\u003cbr>\n2 large eggs\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>PROCESS\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Make The Ganache:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nHeat cream in a small pan over medium heat. Add cloves, cinnamon sticks, chili and vanilla and let steep for 30 minutes. With a hand blender, buzz cream for a few seconds to fully bring out flavor. Strain and reconstitute with fresh cream to original 4.3 oz. to make up for loss in the infusing process.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Melt chocolate over a water bath. Reheat infused cream with honey and milk. Temper yolks into hot cream mixture and cook, stirring constantly, until thickened and coating the back of a spoon, or until 180° F (like crème anglaise). Once the custard is cooked, strain into a pitcher and add to melted chocolate in three additions, stirring with a spatula to emulsify. Cool ganache in a shallow dish, with plastic wrap directly on top, at room temperature for 2 to 3 hours until it’s the consistency of soft fudge. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Make The Mudslides:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nPreheat the oven at 325° F. Sift together all-purpose flour and baking powder. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Melt together chocolate and butter over a water bath and keep warm. In mixing bowl, combine eggs, sugar and vanilla extract and whisk to dissolve the sugar. Add melted chocolate and butter and mix to combine. Add sifted ingredients and stir gently to combine. Add chocolate chunks and dried tart cherries. Allow to set in the fridge for 30 minutes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Scoop onto baking trays and roll generously with the cacao nibs. Place on a cookie tray lined with parchment and bake until set, but still soft, about 6 minutes. Then rotate pan and bake 2 to 3 minutes longer. The cookies should still be soft to the touch and barely set. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Make The Shortbread:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nSift together all-purpose flour, cocoa powder, almond flour and salt. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a mixing bowl fitted with the paddle attachment, cream butter and powdered sugar until smooth. Add eggs one at a time, incorporating fully each time. Add sifted ingredients and mix slowly until smooth. Wrap dough in plastic and chill for at least 1 hour or until firm enough to roll out. Roll dough evenly until it’s about 1/8-inch thick. Cut out small discs of dough, using a 1/2-inch wide round cookie cutter and bake until set around the edges for 7 to 9 minutes. Allow to cool at room temperature. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Assemble The Sandwiches:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nPlace mudslides with the flat side up. Using a piping bag with a #3 plain round tip, pipe ganache drops on top of the cookie in an upward motion.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "Book Q&A with Saveur's James Oseland",
"title": "Book Q&A with Saveur's James Oseland",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/560_BAB_James-OSeland-black-shirt-head-shot.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/560_BAB_James-OSeland-black-shirt-head-shot.jpg\" alt=\"James Oseland. Photo: Darrell Hucks\" title=\"James Oseland. Photo: Darrell Hucks\" width=\"400\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-51172\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>James Oseland. Photo: Darrell Hucks\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The famed fireplace at Camino restaurant will sizzle this Saturday, November 10 for \u003ca href=\"http://camino-oseland.eventbrite.com\">a book luncheon\u003c/a> featuring \u003ca href=\"http://www.saveur.com/\">\u003cem>Saveur's\u003c/em>\u003c/a> James Oseland. He may be familiar for his recent judging appearances on Top Chef Masters but he brings serious journalistic food cred to the table as well. Under his watch, \u003cem>Saveur\u003c/em> has raked in more than 25 awards, including eight James Beard awards. Oseland's newest culinary tome is heavy on food images that will make you ready to cook and, of course, eat: \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/The-Way-Cook-Saveur-Portraits/dp/1616284404\">The Way We Cook: Portraits from Around the World\u003c/a>. Yes, you can catch Wolfgang Puck smiling for the camera but the participants are mainly home cooks who are non-professional, and there’s a cozy warmth to their stories. Bay Area Bites interviewed Oseland recently to find out more. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: How did this book project come about?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Oseland:\u003c/strong> This book is a tribute to kitchens around the world and the people who make them hum. I'm fond of saying, cooking connects us, and I think what I love most about \u003cem>Saveur\u003c/em> is its mission to tell human stories. Even if it's a story about a type of dish or technique, it's also a story about the person putting food on the table. I'm amazed every day that at the heart of it all, the desire to cook is fantastically similar whether we’re in a remote village or in the midst of a big city. Looking back through hundreds of stories and photographs we've collected over the past decade, I feel lucky to be part of such a wonderful community with a hearty appetite and respect for global cuisine and culture. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/The-Way-Cook-Saveur-Portraits/dp/1616284404\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/400_BAB_Saveur_TWWC_cover_final.jpg\" alt=\"The Way We Cook\" title=\"The Way We Cook\" width=\"400\" height=\"380\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-51171\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What are you most passionate about food-wise? \u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Oseland:\u003c/strong> There is nothing that settles and satisfies me at the same time more than the act of cooking in my own kitchen. I also must admit, my husband is Brazilian and he has gotten me completely hooked on the country's pickled chilies. They have such depth and range of flavor -- it's like I've never had a chili before! They manage to sneak their way into the vast majority of my meals. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Who are your culinary mentors?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Oseland:\u003c/strong> I most admire the folks out there who make an impact on the food world through their unyielding passion for creating great meals. Ultimately, thoughtful chefs develop sophisticated yet simple cooking techniques. That extra care results in artful and intentional food I want to eat and share with those I love. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What are the best things about being a writer and editor? And the worst?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Oseland:\u003c/strong> The best part's easy -- I am paid to do what I love most. I was a contributor to \u003cem>Saveur\u003c/em> for almost seven years before I got an impeccably timed call from Colman Andrews (the former editor in chief) asking if I was interested in the executive editor's position. At that exact moment, I had just completed a final draft of my book about living and eating my way through Indonesia and had about 800 dollars to my name. I hope I didn't sound too desperate when I accepted on the spot! \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'd have to say that the worst part of the job is choosing what stories make it into each issue and which ones don't. I wish we could assign a thousand stories every year. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Do you have any favorite Bay Area food spots?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Oseland:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://incanto.biz/\">Incanto\u003c/a> is one of my all time favorite San Francisco spots and it's hard to pick one dish -- anything Chris Cosentino makes is bound to be fantastic. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Where do you think the U.S. is for appreciation of other cultures?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Oseland:\u003c/strong> Let me start by saying that as a New Yorker, I'm a little biased -- this city has tons of affection for global cuisine and talk about easy access! It's stunning how quickly you can get your hands on a good bao sandwich or satisfy your empanada craving here. However, I do think as a whole, Americans are a little different when it comes to food. We foster a kind of \"eat to work\" attitude that is the opposite of many countries where people \"work to live.\" I've noticed in many places I've visited, folks carve out a significant part of the day to share food together, and it's this sit-down-at-the-table ethic that \u003cem>The Way We Cook\u003c/em> champions. I'm proud of that, and I think the tradition to make time for eating with family and friends is on an exciting upswing in the U.S. too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Event Information:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://sfcooking.com/oseland-event.php\">An Evening with James Oseland at San Francisco Cooking School\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nFriday, November 9, 2012 from 7pm to 9pm\u003cbr>\n690 Van Ness Avenue (Corner @ Turk near Civic Center)\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94102\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://sfcooking.com/oseland-event.php\">Purchase Tix\u003c/a>: $15 admission only, $40 admission + book\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://camino-oseland.eventbrite.com/#\">Lunch with James Oseland at Camino\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nSaturday, November 10, 2012 from 11:30am to 3pm\u003cbr>\n3917 Grand Avenue\u003cbr>\nOakland, CA 94610\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://camino-oseland.eventbrite.com/#\">Purchase Tix\u003c/a>: $64.17 ($50 lunch + $9 tip + $5.17 tax) + $2.59 (tix fee) = $66.76 per person\u003cbr>\nCopies of the book will be available for sale at the event\u003cbr>\ncourtesy of Omnivore Books\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/560_BAB_James-OSeland-black-shirt-head-shot.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/560_BAB_James-OSeland-black-shirt-head-shot.jpg\" alt=\"James Oseland. Photo: Darrell Hucks\" title=\"James Oseland. Photo: Darrell Hucks\" width=\"400\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-51172\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>James Oseland. Photo: Darrell Hucks\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The famed fireplace at Camino restaurant will sizzle this Saturday, November 10 for \u003ca href=\"http://camino-oseland.eventbrite.com\">a book luncheon\u003c/a> featuring \u003ca href=\"http://www.saveur.com/\">\u003cem>Saveur's\u003c/em>\u003c/a> James Oseland. He may be familiar for his recent judging appearances on Top Chef Masters but he brings serious journalistic food cred to the table as well. Under his watch, \u003cem>Saveur\u003c/em> has raked in more than 25 awards, including eight James Beard awards. Oseland's newest culinary tome is heavy on food images that will make you ready to cook and, of course, eat: \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/The-Way-Cook-Saveur-Portraits/dp/1616284404\">The Way We Cook: Portraits from Around the World\u003c/a>. Yes, you can catch Wolfgang Puck smiling for the camera but the participants are mainly home cooks who are non-professional, and there’s a cozy warmth to their stories. Bay Area Bites interviewed Oseland recently to find out more. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: How did this book project come about?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Oseland:\u003c/strong> This book is a tribute to kitchens around the world and the people who make them hum. I'm fond of saying, cooking connects us, and I think what I love most about \u003cem>Saveur\u003c/em> is its mission to tell human stories. Even if it's a story about a type of dish or technique, it's also a story about the person putting food on the table. I'm amazed every day that at the heart of it all, the desire to cook is fantastically similar whether we’re in a remote village or in the midst of a big city. Looking back through hundreds of stories and photographs we've collected over the past decade, I feel lucky to be part of such a wonderful community with a hearty appetite and respect for global cuisine and culture. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/The-Way-Cook-Saveur-Portraits/dp/1616284404\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/400_BAB_Saveur_TWWC_cover_final.jpg\" alt=\"The Way We Cook\" title=\"The Way We Cook\" width=\"400\" height=\"380\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-51171\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What are you most passionate about food-wise? \u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Oseland:\u003c/strong> There is nothing that settles and satisfies me at the same time more than the act of cooking in my own kitchen. I also must admit, my husband is Brazilian and he has gotten me completely hooked on the country's pickled chilies. They have such depth and range of flavor -- it's like I've never had a chili before! They manage to sneak their way into the vast majority of my meals. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Who are your culinary mentors?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Oseland:\u003c/strong> I most admire the folks out there who make an impact on the food world through their unyielding passion for creating great meals. Ultimately, thoughtful chefs develop sophisticated yet simple cooking techniques. That extra care results in artful and intentional food I want to eat and share with those I love. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What are the best things about being a writer and editor? And the worst?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Oseland:\u003c/strong> The best part's easy -- I am paid to do what I love most. I was a contributor to \u003cem>Saveur\u003c/em> for almost seven years before I got an impeccably timed call from Colman Andrews (the former editor in chief) asking if I was interested in the executive editor's position. At that exact moment, I had just completed a final draft of my book about living and eating my way through Indonesia and had about 800 dollars to my name. I hope I didn't sound too desperate when I accepted on the spot! \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'd have to say that the worst part of the job is choosing what stories make it into each issue and which ones don't. I wish we could assign a thousand stories every year. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Do you have any favorite Bay Area food spots?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Oseland:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://incanto.biz/\">Incanto\u003c/a> is one of my all time favorite San Francisco spots and it's hard to pick one dish -- anything Chris Cosentino makes is bound to be fantastic. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Where do you think the U.S. is for appreciation of other cultures?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Oseland:\u003c/strong> Let me start by saying that as a New Yorker, I'm a little biased -- this city has tons of affection for global cuisine and talk about easy access! It's stunning how quickly you can get your hands on a good bao sandwich or satisfy your empanada craving here. However, I do think as a whole, Americans are a little different when it comes to food. We foster a kind of \"eat to work\" attitude that is the opposite of many countries where people \"work to live.\" I've noticed in many places I've visited, folks carve out a significant part of the day to share food together, and it's this sit-down-at-the-table ethic that \u003cem>The Way We Cook\u003c/em> champions. I'm proud of that, and I think the tradition to make time for eating with family and friends is on an exciting upswing in the U.S. too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Event Information:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://sfcooking.com/oseland-event.php\">An Evening with James Oseland at San Francisco Cooking School\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nFriday, November 9, 2012 from 7pm to 9pm\u003cbr>\n690 Van Ness Avenue (Corner @ Turk near Civic Center)\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94102\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://sfcooking.com/oseland-event.php\">Purchase Tix\u003c/a>: $15 admission only, $40 admission + book\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://camino-oseland.eventbrite.com/#\">Lunch with James Oseland at Camino\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nSaturday, November 10, 2012 from 11:30am to 3pm\u003cbr>\n3917 Grand Avenue\u003cbr>\nOakland, CA 94610\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://camino-oseland.eventbrite.com/#\">Purchase Tix\u003c/a>: $64.17 ($50 lunch + $9 tip + $5.17 tax) + $2.59 (tix fee) = $66.76 per person\u003cbr>\nCopies of the book will be available for sale at the event\u003cbr>\ncourtesy of Omnivore Books\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/BABjose-garces_Headshot.jpg\" alt=\"Jose Garces. Photo credit: Jason Varney\" title=\"Jose Garces. Photo credit: Jason Varney\" width=\"400\" height=\"600\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50376\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Chef Jose Garces. Photo credit: Jason Varney\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Iron Chef fans, you may want to keep those peepers on high alert. This week, the Bay Area hosts \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Iron_Chef_America#The_Iron_Chefs\">Iron Chef\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.jamesbeard.org/blog/menu-jose-garces\">James Beard\u003c/a> Award-winning Chef \u003ca href=\"http://www.garcesgroup.com/\">Jose Garces\u003c/a>, who will be in San Francisco touting his second book, \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/The-Latin-Road-Home-Savoring/dp/1891105493\">Latin Road Home: Savoring the Foods of Ecuador, Spain, Cuba, Mexico, and Peru\u003c/a>\u003c/em>. The book is a \"travelogue and literary food memoir\" with chapters and recipes from each country. Many of his recipes have ingredients that can be found in, say, your favorite Mission bodega, and Garces gives tips on ingredients for newbies. Garces authored his first cookbook, \u003cem>Latin Evolution\u003c/em>, in 2008 and will be at \u003ca href=\"http://www.omnivorebooks.com/events.html\">Omnivore Books\u003c/a> on Thursday night at 6PM. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>His eponymous Garces Group has 15 restaurants in Philadelphia (Amada, Chifa, Tinto, and Distrito), Chicago, Palm Springs, Arizona, and Atlantic City. An American born to Ecuadorian parents and raised in Chicago, Garces started culinary training as a youngster with his paternal grandmother and later graduated from Chicago’s Kendall College School of Culinary Arts. Chef Garces lives in Philadelphia with his wife and two children and this year created the \u003ca href=\"http://garcesfamilyfoundation.org/\">Garces Family Foundation\u003c/a>, a non-profit to help underserved immigrants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: How did the second book project come about?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nGarces: I knew for a long time that I wanted to work on a second cookbook after finishing my first one, \u003cem>Latin Evolution\u003c/em>. When I started coming up with recipes that I thought I might want to include in a second book, they all carried with them specific stories about how I learned to make them or made them my own. Those stories took on as much life as the recipes themselves, and it quickly became obvious that my next book should bring them both together and share not only how to prepare certain dishes but also why I love to prepare them and what they mean to me.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Do you have any good stories from the book tour? \u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nGarces: Up to this point everything has been running very smoothly! It was great to be back at my alma mater, Kendall College in Chicago and I had a blast at the Arizona Taco Fest in Scottsdale where Distrito took home a few trophies.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What are you most passionate about food-wise?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nGarces: I’m devoted to finding and preparing the best, freshest ingredients. To me, it is the surest way to make a dish truly special. If you refuse to compromise on the quality of your ingredients, you will always be working with the best raw materials, and by extension, you will always create the best version of a dish that you can.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Who are your culinary mentors?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nGarces: I owe a debt of experience and faith to \u003ca href=\"http://www.chefdouglasrodriguez.com/\">Douglas Rodriguez\u003c/a>, both for his trust in me and for bringing me to my adopted hometown of Philadelphia. My fellow Iron Chef, Masaharu Morimoto, never fails to inspire me with his creativity and masterful techniques. The Spanish trailblazer in American has long been Jose Andrés, and I am proud to follow in his footsteps of bringing the best of Spain to America.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What are the best things about being a chef and restaurateur? And the worst?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nGarces: I am lucky to be able to say that I truly love my job. Perhaps the best part of being a chef and restaurateur is using food as a way of bringing people together, whether for just one meal, as guests, or as a team working in one of my restaurants, caring for those guests night after night. Food creates community in a way that nothing else can. There are stresses, as there are in any job, and they can be magnified because every meal in a restaurant should be special, but those stresses pale in comparison to the benefits.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: You are relatively young yet appear to be a success. What are the lessons you’ve learned on the way?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nGarces: The biggest lesson that I have learned, and one that I try to carry with me and to impart on those who ask me for advice, is to surround yourself with talented, passionate, capable people and learn all you can from them. If you are constantly around people you admire, you can’t help but study their approach, and often, you’ll discover a better or more effective way of doing something.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Do you have any favorite Bay Area food spots?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nGarces: Mission Chinese by Danny Bowien is a favorite and I’ll order anything on that menu! I also like Boulevard and Piperade. I’m going to Manresa during this trip.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Where do you think the U.S. is for appreciation of other cultures?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nGarces: It’s often said that the U.S. is a melting pot, therefore I believe it’s impossible for us to not appreciate all of the cultures that now make up American culture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Have you ever experienced racism in the kitchen?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nGarces: In many ways, I think of the kitchen as the great equalizer -- especially because often, our ‘audience,’ or our diners, can’t actually see us. If your food is good, it’s good, and that’s really all there is to it at the end of the day.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Mary Ladd interviews Iron Chef Jose Garces, who is visiting San Francisco to promote his latest book, “Latin Road Home: Savoring the Foods of Ecuador, Spain, Cuba, Mexico, and Peru.” He recently won a trophy at the Arizona Taco Fest and shares where he will eat while in town, and who is his culinary mentor.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/BABjose-garces_Headshot.jpg\" alt=\"Jose Garces. Photo credit: Jason Varney\" title=\"Jose Garces. Photo credit: Jason Varney\" width=\"400\" height=\"600\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50376\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Chef Jose Garces. Photo credit: Jason Varney\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Iron Chef fans, you may want to keep those peepers on high alert. This week, the Bay Area hosts \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Iron_Chef_America#The_Iron_Chefs\">Iron Chef\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.jamesbeard.org/blog/menu-jose-garces\">James Beard\u003c/a> Award-winning Chef \u003ca href=\"http://www.garcesgroup.com/\">Jose Garces\u003c/a>, who will be in San Francisco touting his second book, \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/The-Latin-Road-Home-Savoring/dp/1891105493\">Latin Road Home: Savoring the Foods of Ecuador, Spain, Cuba, Mexico, and Peru\u003c/a>\u003c/em>. The book is a \"travelogue and literary food memoir\" with chapters and recipes from each country. Many of his recipes have ingredients that can be found in, say, your favorite Mission bodega, and Garces gives tips on ingredients for newbies. Garces authored his first cookbook, \u003cem>Latin Evolution\u003c/em>, in 2008 and will be at \u003ca href=\"http://www.omnivorebooks.com/events.html\">Omnivore Books\u003c/a> on Thursday night at 6PM. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>His eponymous Garces Group has 15 restaurants in Philadelphia (Amada, Chifa, Tinto, and Distrito), Chicago, Palm Springs, Arizona, and Atlantic City. An American born to Ecuadorian parents and raised in Chicago, Garces started culinary training as a youngster with his paternal grandmother and later graduated from Chicago’s Kendall College School of Culinary Arts. Chef Garces lives in Philadelphia with his wife and two children and this year created the \u003ca href=\"http://garcesfamilyfoundation.org/\">Garces Family Foundation\u003c/a>, a non-profit to help underserved immigrants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: How did the second book project come about?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nGarces: I knew for a long time that I wanted to work on a second cookbook after finishing my first one, \u003cem>Latin Evolution\u003c/em>. When I started coming up with recipes that I thought I might want to include in a second book, they all carried with them specific stories about how I learned to make them or made them my own. Those stories took on as much life as the recipes themselves, and it quickly became obvious that my next book should bring them both together and share not only how to prepare certain dishes but also why I love to prepare them and what they mean to me.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Do you have any good stories from the book tour? \u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nGarces: Up to this point everything has been running very smoothly! It was great to be back at my alma mater, Kendall College in Chicago and I had a blast at the Arizona Taco Fest in Scottsdale where Distrito took home a few trophies.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What are you most passionate about food-wise?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nGarces: I’m devoted to finding and preparing the best, freshest ingredients. To me, it is the surest way to make a dish truly special. If you refuse to compromise on the quality of your ingredients, you will always be working with the best raw materials, and by extension, you will always create the best version of a dish that you can.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Who are your culinary mentors?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nGarces: I owe a debt of experience and faith to \u003ca href=\"http://www.chefdouglasrodriguez.com/\">Douglas Rodriguez\u003c/a>, both for his trust in me and for bringing me to my adopted hometown of Philadelphia. My fellow Iron Chef, Masaharu Morimoto, never fails to inspire me with his creativity and masterful techniques. The Spanish trailblazer in American has long been Jose Andrés, and I am proud to follow in his footsteps of bringing the best of Spain to America.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What are the best things about being a chef and restaurateur? And the worst?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nGarces: I am lucky to be able to say that I truly love my job. Perhaps the best part of being a chef and restaurateur is using food as a way of bringing people together, whether for just one meal, as guests, or as a team working in one of my restaurants, caring for those guests night after night. Food creates community in a way that nothing else can. There are stresses, as there are in any job, and they can be magnified because every meal in a restaurant should be special, but those stresses pale in comparison to the benefits.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: You are relatively young yet appear to be a success. What are the lessons you’ve learned on the way?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nGarces: The biggest lesson that I have learned, and one that I try to carry with me and to impart on those who ask me for advice, is to surround yourself with talented, passionate, capable people and learn all you can from them. If you are constantly around people you admire, you can’t help but study their approach, and often, you’ll discover a better or more effective way of doing something.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Do you have any favorite Bay Area food spots?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nGarces: Mission Chinese by Danny Bowien is a favorite and I’ll order anything on that menu! I also like Boulevard and Piperade. I’m going to Manresa during this trip.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Where do you think the U.S. is for appreciation of other cultures?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nGarces: It’s often said that the U.S. is a melting pot, therefore I believe it’s impossible for us to not appreciate all of the cultures that now make up American culture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Have you ever experienced racism in the kitchen?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nGarces: In many ways, I think of the kitchen as the great equalizer -- especially because often, our ‘audience,’ or our diners, can’t actually see us. If your food is good, it’s good, and that’s really all there is to it at the end of the day.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Maui Rides Another Culinary Wave",
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"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/maui.seantimberlake.jpg\" alt=\"Maui beach scene. Photo: Sean Timberlake\" title=\"Maui beach scene. Photo: Sean Timberlake\" width=\"403\" height=\"403\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50307\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Many mainlanders head to Maui for the natural beauty not the food. Photo: Sean Timberlake\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Before the 1990s, the Hawaiian Islands had a reputation as a culinary backwater -- the land of SPAM and pineapple. And, let's face it, even today few mainlanders head to Maui for the food. The popular island vacation destination is a playground for water-sport thrill seekers, nature lovers, honeymooners, and stressed-out \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Haole\">haoles\u003c/a> seeking serious beach time and fruity cocktails with tiny umbrellas. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But that may be changing as Maui chefs look beyond local standards like poi and poke for edible inspiration. In recent years, a new culinary culture -- one with homegrown roots -- has emerged on the island and now residents and visitors alike are digging into dishes that wouldn't be out of place on menus in the Bay Area and beyond. The plates coming out of restaurant kitchens, though, reflect Hawaii's rich cultural traditions, exude a clear sense of place, and embrace Japanese, Chinese, Filipino, Portuguese, Polynesian, Korean, traditional Hawaiian, and, yes, European flavors and techniques.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's not the first time in recent memory the 50th state has stirred things up on the stove. Twenty years ago, a dozen celebrated chefs, including \u003ca href=\"http://merrimanshawaii.com/peter_merriman.htm\">Peter Merriman\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.roysrestaurant.com/about/roy_yamaguchi.asp\">Roy Yamaguchi\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.alanwongs.com/\">Alan Wong\u003c/a> decided to showcase the island state's evolving edible landscape in what was dubbed \u003ca href=\"http://www.hawaiiregionalcuisine.com/\">Hawaii Regional Cuisine\u003c/a>. Their mission: fresh local food prepared in creative ways. This new cuisine was a welcome shift for a state known mostly for its plate lunch. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/locomocofriedrice.alohamixedplate560.jpg\" alt=\"Loco Moco Fried Rice\" title=\"Loco Moco Fried Rice\" width=\"560\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50317\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>An updated spin on the plate lunch: Loco Moco Fried Rice from the restaurant Aloha Mixed Plate. Photo: Courtesy Aloha Mixed Plate\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This ubiquitous restaurant item -- still found in many places and getting a makeover too -- typically consists of two scoops of rice, a scoop of macaroni salad, and meat such as Hawaiian BBQ, beef teriyaki, kalua pork, chicken katsu or the Loco Moco, a ground beef patty topped with a fried egg and brown gravy. Not exactly local food, and rarely served with a piece of tropical fruit, taro, or fresh-caught fish in sight. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What's different about the latest crop of notable Maui chefs -- who include resort restaurateur \u003ca href=\"http://www.cohnrestaurants.com/chefs/executive-chef-ryan-luckey/\">Isaac Bancaco\u003c/a> (formerly of \u003ca href=\"http://www.wailearesortdining.com/humuhumu/\">Humuhumu\u003c/a> now at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.cohnrestaurants.com/menu-restaurants/the-pineapple/\">Pineapple Grill\u003c/a>), casual dining standout \u003ca href=\"http://www.starchefs.com/cook/chefs/bio/sheldon-simeon\">Sheldon Simeon\u003c/a> (\u003ca href=\"http://www.starnoodle.com/\">Star Noodle\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://leodas.com/\">Leoda's\u003c/a>), and farmer-forager-pop-up-chef \u003ca href=\"http://kupumaui.com/who-is-kupu-maui/\">James Simpliciano\u003c/a> -- is a renewed focus on collaborating closely with farmers and fishermen and sourcing sustainable ingredients that reflect the many microclimates of Maui. This new breed of cooks embrace a farm-to-table sensibility that many Northern Californians take for granted, and seek to modernize menus, offering food with flair and finesse but in a more casual atmosphere than their culinary trailblazers. And this shift in thinking is taking place at fancy resort restaurants, pop-up farm dinners, and eating establishments in between. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/ahi.avo_.star_.noodle400.jpg\" alt=\"Avo Ahi\" title=\"Avo Ahi\" width=\"400\" height=\"533\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50311\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Fresh island flavors with a twist shine at Star Noodle, such as the Avo Ahi with sambal (chili sauce) and usukuchi (soy sauce). Photo: Courtesy Star Noodle\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"The new generation of leading Maui chefs have a stronger connection to our local food traditions and food cultures and for the most part they are born and raised in the islands and have a natural affinity to the land, sea, mountains, and valleys,\" notes Christopher Speere of the \u003ca href=\"http://mauiculinary-campusdining.com/index.html\">Maui Culinary Academy\u003c/a> at the University of Hawaii Maui College. \"These chefs were raised on pork adobo, ahi poke, kim chee cucumbers, wild guava smoked pork, shoyu braised pork belly and grilled hamachi collars -- island flavors and the use of island ingredients are inherent in their everyday cooking practices. They stay true to their roots and cook from the heart.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/Chef-Simeon.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Seldon Simeon\" title=\"Chef Seldon Simeon\" width=\"401\" height=\"604\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50312\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>The star behind Star Noodle, Sheldon Simeon. Photo: Courtesy Star Noodle\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Case in point James Beard Award-nominee Sheldon Simeon whose Star Noodle -- an Asian-inspired, made-by-hand noodle house in an industrial park near the tourist mecca of Lahaina -- and Leoda's Kitchen and Pie Shop, a roadhouse diner in Olowalu featuring fresh salads, savory pastries, and pies -- have drawn appreciative nods from critics and consumers alike.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Simeon and fellow chefs took off for New York to get ideas and inspiration from noodle bars like David Chang's \u003ca href=\"http://momofuku.com/\">Momofuku\u003c/a>, for Simeon's noodle joint, and it shows in his small plates offering imaginative flavor pairings. Pohole Salad showcases Hana fiddle head ferns, Maui onions, ebi (shrimp), and kombu (seaweed); Lahaina Fried Soup (actually a noodle dish, not soup featuring doubly-thick chow fun, pork, and bean sprouts), and bacon-flecked Brussels Sprouts with Napa cabbage and kimchee puree also wins rave reviews. Desserts include a modern rendition of the popular Portuguese doughnuts known as Malasadas, served with chocolate and butterscotch caramel sauce and chopped peanuts. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/starnoodle.lahainafriednoodlesoup560.jpg\" alt=\"Lahaina Fried Soup\" title=\"Lahaina Fried Soup\" width=\"560\" height=\"418\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50318\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Noodle dishes, such as the Lahaina Fried Soup, feature at Star Noodle. Photo: Courtesy Star Noodle\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/starnoodle.malasadas.jpg\" alt=\"Malasadas\" title=\"Malasadas\" width=\"250\" height=\"353\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50310\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Save room for dessert at Star Noodle. Photo: Courtesy Star Noodle\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Similarly, a kitchen crew from Leoda's decamped to the Bay Area to research bread, pies, and pastries at places like \u003ca href=\"http://www.tartinebakery.com/\">Tartine\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://missionpie.com/\">Mission Pie\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://elportenosf.com/\">El Porteno Empanadas\u003c/a>. On the menu at the roadhouse: a savory corn hand-held pie filled with hibatchi sweet Kula corn, lime zest, cotija cheese, chives, and cilantro, along with hearty chicken or meat 'n potatoes pot pies. Also in the mix: sweet berry pies, flaky crusted yuzu-lemon tart, macadamia nut chocolate praline pie, and coconut cream pie. Sides worth scoping out include the Reuben lumpia (corned beef, sauerkraut, provolone cheese, thousand island dressing) and the fried salad (Brussels sprouts leaves, burnt orange vinaigrette, celery leaves, mixed hydroponic greens, radish, local mint.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On a recent food and farm trip to Maui, Simeon stopped by this reporter's table at Star Noodle to share his thoughts on the current state of dining on the island. Simeon, originally from Hilo on the Big Island, recently earned a People's Choice Award for \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodandwine.com/peoples-best-new-chef/northwest-pacific\">Best New Chef/Northwest and Pacific region\u003c/a> from \u003cem>Food & Wine \u003c/em>magazine. He also appears on season 10 of \u003ca href=\"http://www.bravotv.com/top-chef/season-10/about\">Bravo's Top Chef\u003c/a>, which begins November 7 (he was mum about the show, as one might expect.) But there's nothing celebrity chef-y about this cook: He arrived in a T-shirt, shorts, and slippers (island speak for flip flops) en route to his second baby luau of the night. (A first birthday luau is a grand celebration, he and another local informed me. Naturally, food plays a starring role in such events.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He's a humble guy who comes from a food-loving clan (his dad born and raised Hawaiian, his mom from a Filipino family). Simeon is happy for his restaurants' success and also quietly striving to do more to feature Hawaiian farmers who grow local gems -- he thinks it's time for restaurant chefs like him to step aside and place the spotlight on what growers are doing to improve food in Maui. \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"It's an honor to showcase local ingredients and incorporate local culture in the dishes we serve,\" he says. \"As a chef I like to introduce customers -- locals and visitors -- to flavors they can't find anywhere else.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/leodas.friedsalad560.jpg\" alt=\"fried salad\" title=\"fried salad\" width=\"550\" height=\"364\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50316\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>The fried salad at Leoda's features Brussels sprouts coated in a kicky dressing. Photo: Courtesy Leoda's\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>His wildly popular Brussels sprouts dishes at both hot spots illustrate some of the challenges inherent with island culinary life. Simeon concedes Brussels sprouts showed up on his menus as part of a national trend, and now they're too big a hit to come off. But these cruciferous vegetables are flown in from the mainland. So he's working with farmers in cooler areas on the island, who can grow small Brussels sprouts for a short season, and hopes to switch to this homegrown crop for however long they last and educate diners about seasonal eating along the way.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Food writer Bonnie Friedman says much has changed on the plate in the 30 years she's called Maui home -- despite the island's limited resources. \"When I first arrived here in terms of 'fine dining,' most places were serving frozen mahimahi, frozen vegetables, a baked potato and calling it a day,\" says Friedman, who leads \u003ca href=\"http://tourdafood.com/\">local food tours\u003c/a> designed to whisk visitors away from the resort areas and into the small towns where local people live, work, and eat. She passes on \"name\" places for holes-in-the-walls in central Maui, mom-and-pop shops, cowboy country fare, and gas-station grub to highlight what she calls the island's \"amazing melting pot of ethnic cuisines.\" There's always a shave ice stop too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Not everyone is enamored with the current state of island eats -- notably newbies from the mainland. At \u003ca href=\"http://www.oofarm.com/\">O'o Farm\u003c/a> in Kula Country, a growing region on the island's west side, the resident chef on a \u003ca href=\"http://www.oofarm.com/tour-luncheon/\">farm and lunch tour\u003c/a> there -- who relocated from food-centric Seattle for the gig -- maintains that island food is 5 to 15 years behind what's on plates Stateside and says he hasn't been wowed by anything he's eaten while out and about in the eight months or so he's lived on Maui.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/kupu.maui_.popup_.waiheecoastaldunes.jpg\" alt=\"Pop-up dining, Hawaiian style, at Kupu Maui.\" title=\"Pop-up dining, Hawaiian style, at Kupu Maui.\" width=\"320\" height=\"213\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50315\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Pop-up dining, Hawaiian style, at Kupu Maui. Photo: Monica George\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>No matter, for the most part, locals are content to do their own thing without emulating mainland trends -- or at least giving them a refreshing island feel. Take a recent pop-up dinner, old hat in the Bay Area for sure. But this event, sponsored by the \u003ca href=\"http://slowfoodmaui.org/\">local chapter of Slow Food\u003c/a>, had a distinctly island vibe: James Simpliciano, who grows greens and has worked in the kitchens of large resorts, dished up dinner on protected land while local musician Joel Katz played Hawaiian steel guitar. Proceeds from these events benefit local groups -- the spirit of giving back to the community is alive and well in the land of aloha -- in this case the \u003ca href=\"http://www.hilt.org/about-us/\">Hawaiian Islands Land Trust\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/james.simpliciano.peter_.liu_.maui560.jpg\" alt=\"Farmer-chef James Simpliciano\" title=\"Farmer-chef James Simpliciano\" width=\"560\" height=\"371\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50313\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Farmer-chef James Simpliciano cooks for the pop-up crowd. Photo: Peter Liu, Kaiscapes Media/\u003ca href=\"http://www.flickr.com/photos/kaiscapesllc/7236639608/\">Flickr\u003c/a>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This pop-up event, dubbed \u003ca href=\"http://kupumaui.com/\">Kupu Maui\u003c/a>, (kupu means sprout in Hawaiian) was held at \u003ca href=\"http://www.hilt.org/protected-lands/maui/waihee-refuge/\">Waihe'e Coastal Dunes and Wetlands Refuge\u003c/a>, a quiet, pristine, shoreline plot home to eight different endangered species. On the menu that night pupu (bite-sized appetizers) such as chai-smoked pork with lilikoi (passion fruit) jelly and micro greens on taro chip (a vegetarian version showcased local goat cheese). The main meal served buffet-style included a lamb tagine with aromatic Maui onion mire poix, Honakahau taro, Kapalua sweet potato, Ka'anapali carrots, beets, garlic and Hawaiian sea salt. Much of the food was donated by local farmers and prepared by a crew of local cooks. Kupu Maui pops up once a month at a different location, frequently a farm. For instance, last Saturday the event was held at \u003ca href=\"http://kupaafarms.blogspot.com/\">Kupa'a Farm\u003c/a>, an organic grower whose produce sells out within hours at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.upcountryfarmersmarket.com/\">UpCountry Farmers' Market\u003c/a> on Saturdays.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's true much of what is consumed on Maui is still imported from the mainland, perhaps not surprising for an isolated island a five-hour flight from San Francisco. But increasingly, resident chefs feature homegrown food for the same reasons the rest of us seek local eats -- health, environment, economics, sustainability, taste, terroir -- and a dash of well-deserved local pride.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Full disclosure: The writer was a guest on Maui courtesy of Maui's Visitors & Convention Bureau.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Maui's culinary moment: The island's food scene is flourishing, thanks to a new breed of farmers and chefs. Sarah Henry reports from the field.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/maui.seantimberlake.jpg\" alt=\"Maui beach scene. Photo: Sean Timberlake\" title=\"Maui beach scene. Photo: Sean Timberlake\" width=\"403\" height=\"403\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50307\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Many mainlanders head to Maui for the natural beauty not the food. Photo: Sean Timberlake\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Before the 1990s, the Hawaiian Islands had a reputation as a culinary backwater -- the land of SPAM and pineapple. And, let's face it, even today few mainlanders head to Maui for the food. The popular island vacation destination is a playground for water-sport thrill seekers, nature lovers, honeymooners, and stressed-out \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Haole\">haoles\u003c/a> seeking serious beach time and fruity cocktails with tiny umbrellas. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But that may be changing as Maui chefs look beyond local standards like poi and poke for edible inspiration. In recent years, a new culinary culture -- one with homegrown roots -- has emerged on the island and now residents and visitors alike are digging into dishes that wouldn't be out of place on menus in the Bay Area and beyond. The plates coming out of restaurant kitchens, though, reflect Hawaii's rich cultural traditions, exude a clear sense of place, and embrace Japanese, Chinese, Filipino, Portuguese, Polynesian, Korean, traditional Hawaiian, and, yes, European flavors and techniques.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's not the first time in recent memory the 50th state has stirred things up on the stove. Twenty years ago, a dozen celebrated chefs, including \u003ca href=\"http://merrimanshawaii.com/peter_merriman.htm\">Peter Merriman\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.roysrestaurant.com/about/roy_yamaguchi.asp\">Roy Yamaguchi\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.alanwongs.com/\">Alan Wong\u003c/a> decided to showcase the island state's evolving edible landscape in what was dubbed \u003ca href=\"http://www.hawaiiregionalcuisine.com/\">Hawaii Regional Cuisine\u003c/a>. Their mission: fresh local food prepared in creative ways. This new cuisine was a welcome shift for a state known mostly for its plate lunch. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/locomocofriedrice.alohamixedplate560.jpg\" alt=\"Loco Moco Fried Rice\" title=\"Loco Moco Fried Rice\" width=\"560\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50317\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>An updated spin on the plate lunch: Loco Moco Fried Rice from the restaurant Aloha Mixed Plate. Photo: Courtesy Aloha Mixed Plate\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This ubiquitous restaurant item -- still found in many places and getting a makeover too -- typically consists of two scoops of rice, a scoop of macaroni salad, and meat such as Hawaiian BBQ, beef teriyaki, kalua pork, chicken katsu or the Loco Moco, a ground beef patty topped with a fried egg and brown gravy. Not exactly local food, and rarely served with a piece of tropical fruit, taro, or fresh-caught fish in sight. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What's different about the latest crop of notable Maui chefs -- who include resort restaurateur \u003ca href=\"http://www.cohnrestaurants.com/chefs/executive-chef-ryan-luckey/\">Isaac Bancaco\u003c/a> (formerly of \u003ca href=\"http://www.wailearesortdining.com/humuhumu/\">Humuhumu\u003c/a> now at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.cohnrestaurants.com/menu-restaurants/the-pineapple/\">Pineapple Grill\u003c/a>), casual dining standout \u003ca href=\"http://www.starchefs.com/cook/chefs/bio/sheldon-simeon\">Sheldon Simeon\u003c/a> (\u003ca href=\"http://www.starnoodle.com/\">Star Noodle\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://leodas.com/\">Leoda's\u003c/a>), and farmer-forager-pop-up-chef \u003ca href=\"http://kupumaui.com/who-is-kupu-maui/\">James Simpliciano\u003c/a> -- is a renewed focus on collaborating closely with farmers and fishermen and sourcing sustainable ingredients that reflect the many microclimates of Maui. This new breed of cooks embrace a farm-to-table sensibility that many Northern Californians take for granted, and seek to modernize menus, offering food with flair and finesse but in a more casual atmosphere than their culinary trailblazers. And this shift in thinking is taking place at fancy resort restaurants, pop-up farm dinners, and eating establishments in between. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/ahi.avo_.star_.noodle400.jpg\" alt=\"Avo Ahi\" title=\"Avo Ahi\" width=\"400\" height=\"533\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50311\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Fresh island flavors with a twist shine at Star Noodle, such as the Avo Ahi with sambal (chili sauce) and usukuchi (soy sauce). Photo: Courtesy Star Noodle\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"The new generation of leading Maui chefs have a stronger connection to our local food traditions and food cultures and for the most part they are born and raised in the islands and have a natural affinity to the land, sea, mountains, and valleys,\" notes Christopher Speere of the \u003ca href=\"http://mauiculinary-campusdining.com/index.html\">Maui Culinary Academy\u003c/a> at the University of Hawaii Maui College. \"These chefs were raised on pork adobo, ahi poke, kim chee cucumbers, wild guava smoked pork, shoyu braised pork belly and grilled hamachi collars -- island flavors and the use of island ingredients are inherent in their everyday cooking practices. They stay true to their roots and cook from the heart.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/Chef-Simeon.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Seldon Simeon\" title=\"Chef Seldon Simeon\" width=\"401\" height=\"604\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50312\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>The star behind Star Noodle, Sheldon Simeon. Photo: Courtesy Star Noodle\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Case in point James Beard Award-nominee Sheldon Simeon whose Star Noodle -- an Asian-inspired, made-by-hand noodle house in an industrial park near the tourist mecca of Lahaina -- and Leoda's Kitchen and Pie Shop, a roadhouse diner in Olowalu featuring fresh salads, savory pastries, and pies -- have drawn appreciative nods from critics and consumers alike.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Simeon and fellow chefs took off for New York to get ideas and inspiration from noodle bars like David Chang's \u003ca href=\"http://momofuku.com/\">Momofuku\u003c/a>, for Simeon's noodle joint, and it shows in his small plates offering imaginative flavor pairings. Pohole Salad showcases Hana fiddle head ferns, Maui onions, ebi (shrimp), and kombu (seaweed); Lahaina Fried Soup (actually a noodle dish, not soup featuring doubly-thick chow fun, pork, and bean sprouts), and bacon-flecked Brussels Sprouts with Napa cabbage and kimchee puree also wins rave reviews. Desserts include a modern rendition of the popular Portuguese doughnuts known as Malasadas, served with chocolate and butterscotch caramel sauce and chopped peanuts. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/starnoodle.lahainafriednoodlesoup560.jpg\" alt=\"Lahaina Fried Soup\" title=\"Lahaina Fried Soup\" width=\"560\" height=\"418\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50318\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Noodle dishes, such as the Lahaina Fried Soup, feature at Star Noodle. Photo: Courtesy Star Noodle\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/starnoodle.malasadas.jpg\" alt=\"Malasadas\" title=\"Malasadas\" width=\"250\" height=\"353\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50310\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Save room for dessert at Star Noodle. Photo: Courtesy Star Noodle\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Similarly, a kitchen crew from Leoda's decamped to the Bay Area to research bread, pies, and pastries at places like \u003ca href=\"http://www.tartinebakery.com/\">Tartine\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://missionpie.com/\">Mission Pie\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://elportenosf.com/\">El Porteno Empanadas\u003c/a>. On the menu at the roadhouse: a savory corn hand-held pie filled with hibatchi sweet Kula corn, lime zest, cotija cheese, chives, and cilantro, along with hearty chicken or meat 'n potatoes pot pies. Also in the mix: sweet berry pies, flaky crusted yuzu-lemon tart, macadamia nut chocolate praline pie, and coconut cream pie. Sides worth scoping out include the Reuben lumpia (corned beef, sauerkraut, provolone cheese, thousand island dressing) and the fried salad (Brussels sprouts leaves, burnt orange vinaigrette, celery leaves, mixed hydroponic greens, radish, local mint.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On a recent food and farm trip to Maui, Simeon stopped by this reporter's table at Star Noodle to share his thoughts on the current state of dining on the island. Simeon, originally from Hilo on the Big Island, recently earned a People's Choice Award for \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodandwine.com/peoples-best-new-chef/northwest-pacific\">Best New Chef/Northwest and Pacific region\u003c/a> from \u003cem>Food & Wine \u003c/em>magazine. He also appears on season 10 of \u003ca href=\"http://www.bravotv.com/top-chef/season-10/about\">Bravo's Top Chef\u003c/a>, which begins November 7 (he was mum about the show, as one might expect.) But there's nothing celebrity chef-y about this cook: He arrived in a T-shirt, shorts, and slippers (island speak for flip flops) en route to his second baby luau of the night. (A first birthday luau is a grand celebration, he and another local informed me. Naturally, food plays a starring role in such events.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He's a humble guy who comes from a food-loving clan (his dad born and raised Hawaiian, his mom from a Filipino family). Simeon is happy for his restaurants' success and also quietly striving to do more to feature Hawaiian farmers who grow local gems -- he thinks it's time for restaurant chefs like him to step aside and place the spotlight on what growers are doing to improve food in Maui. \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"It's an honor to showcase local ingredients and incorporate local culture in the dishes we serve,\" he says. \"As a chef I like to introduce customers -- locals and visitors -- to flavors they can't find anywhere else.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/leodas.friedsalad560.jpg\" alt=\"fried salad\" title=\"fried salad\" width=\"550\" height=\"364\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50316\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>The fried salad at Leoda's features Brussels sprouts coated in a kicky dressing. Photo: Courtesy Leoda's\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>His wildly popular Brussels sprouts dishes at both hot spots illustrate some of the challenges inherent with island culinary life. Simeon concedes Brussels sprouts showed up on his menus as part of a national trend, and now they're too big a hit to come off. But these cruciferous vegetables are flown in from the mainland. So he's working with farmers in cooler areas on the island, who can grow small Brussels sprouts for a short season, and hopes to switch to this homegrown crop for however long they last and educate diners about seasonal eating along the way.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Food writer Bonnie Friedman says much has changed on the plate in the 30 years she's called Maui home -- despite the island's limited resources. \"When I first arrived here in terms of 'fine dining,' most places were serving frozen mahimahi, frozen vegetables, a baked potato and calling it a day,\" says Friedman, who leads \u003ca href=\"http://tourdafood.com/\">local food tours\u003c/a> designed to whisk visitors away from the resort areas and into the small towns where local people live, work, and eat. She passes on \"name\" places for holes-in-the-walls in central Maui, mom-and-pop shops, cowboy country fare, and gas-station grub to highlight what she calls the island's \"amazing melting pot of ethnic cuisines.\" There's always a shave ice stop too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Not everyone is enamored with the current state of island eats -- notably newbies from the mainland. At \u003ca href=\"http://www.oofarm.com/\">O'o Farm\u003c/a> in Kula Country, a growing region on the island's west side, the resident chef on a \u003ca href=\"http://www.oofarm.com/tour-luncheon/\">farm and lunch tour\u003c/a> there -- who relocated from food-centric Seattle for the gig -- maintains that island food is 5 to 15 years behind what's on plates Stateside and says he hasn't been wowed by anything he's eaten while out and about in the eight months or so he's lived on Maui.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/kupu.maui_.popup_.waiheecoastaldunes.jpg\" alt=\"Pop-up dining, Hawaiian style, at Kupu Maui.\" title=\"Pop-up dining, Hawaiian style, at Kupu Maui.\" width=\"320\" height=\"213\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50315\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Pop-up dining, Hawaiian style, at Kupu Maui. Photo: Monica George\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>No matter, for the most part, locals are content to do their own thing without emulating mainland trends -- or at least giving them a refreshing island feel. Take a recent pop-up dinner, old hat in the Bay Area for sure. But this event, sponsored by the \u003ca href=\"http://slowfoodmaui.org/\">local chapter of Slow Food\u003c/a>, had a distinctly island vibe: James Simpliciano, who grows greens and has worked in the kitchens of large resorts, dished up dinner on protected land while local musician Joel Katz played Hawaiian steel guitar. Proceeds from these events benefit local groups -- the spirit of giving back to the community is alive and well in the land of aloha -- in this case the \u003ca href=\"http://www.hilt.org/about-us/\">Hawaiian Islands Land Trust\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/james.simpliciano.peter_.liu_.maui560.jpg\" alt=\"Farmer-chef James Simpliciano\" title=\"Farmer-chef James Simpliciano\" width=\"560\" height=\"371\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50313\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Farmer-chef James Simpliciano cooks for the pop-up crowd. Photo: Peter Liu, Kaiscapes Media/\u003ca href=\"http://www.flickr.com/photos/kaiscapesllc/7236639608/\">Flickr\u003c/a>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This pop-up event, dubbed \u003ca href=\"http://kupumaui.com/\">Kupu Maui\u003c/a>, (kupu means sprout in Hawaiian) was held at \u003ca href=\"http://www.hilt.org/protected-lands/maui/waihee-refuge/\">Waihe'e Coastal Dunes and Wetlands Refuge\u003c/a>, a quiet, pristine, shoreline plot home to eight different endangered species. On the menu that night pupu (bite-sized appetizers) such as chai-smoked pork with lilikoi (passion fruit) jelly and micro greens on taro chip (a vegetarian version showcased local goat cheese). The main meal served buffet-style included a lamb tagine with aromatic Maui onion mire poix, Honakahau taro, Kapalua sweet potato, Ka'anapali carrots, beets, garlic and Hawaiian sea salt. Much of the food was donated by local farmers and prepared by a crew of local cooks. Kupu Maui pops up once a month at a different location, frequently a farm. For instance, last Saturday the event was held at \u003ca href=\"http://kupaafarms.blogspot.com/\">Kupa'a Farm\u003c/a>, an organic grower whose produce sells out within hours at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.upcountryfarmersmarket.com/\">UpCountry Farmers' Market\u003c/a> on Saturdays.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's true much of what is consumed on Maui is still imported from the mainland, perhaps not surprising for an isolated island a five-hour flight from San Francisco. But increasingly, resident chefs feature homegrown food for the same reasons the rest of us seek local eats -- health, environment, economics, sustainability, taste, terroir -- and a dash of well-deserved local pride.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Full disclosure: The writer was a guest on Maui courtesy of Maui's Visitors & Convention Bureau.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Q&A with Mourad Lahlou, Chef and Culinary Diplomat",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/560BAB_Mourad-Lahlou-Deborah-Jones-2.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/560BAB_Mourad-Lahlou-Deborah-Jones-2.jpg\" alt=\"Mourad Lahlou. Photo: Deborah Jones\" title=\"Mourad Lahlou. Photo: Deborah Jones\" width=\"560\" height=\"373\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50274\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Mourad Lahlou. Photo: Deborah Jones\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Self-taught chef and restaurateur Mourad Lahlou is the one name repeatedly whispered at industry events as someone who is innovative and daring. Lahlou’s first cookbook “\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Mourad-New-Moroccan-Lahlou/dp/1579654290\">Mourad: New Moroccan\u003c/a>” came out last year and the recipes reveal his personal interpretation of his native Moroccan cuisine. Eating at his Michelin starred restaurant \u003ca href=\"http://www.aziza-sf.com/\">Aziza\u003c/a> remains a popular “must-do” for many, and Lahlou was recently appointed a culinary ambassador by Secretary of State \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodpolitics.com/wp-content/uploads/Diplomatic-Culinary-Partnership-Initiative-One-Pager.pdf\">Hillary Clinton\u003c/a>. Lahlou is also gearing up to open a new restaurant in downtown San Francisco, which Lahlou has said will be different than Aziza. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bay Area Bites caught up with Lahlou via a telephone and an email interview recently. His comments have been edited for length and clarity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: How did you become a culinary ambassador? How will it change your schedule?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lahlou:\u003c/strong> Hillary Clinton decided to start this new initiative called culinary diplomacy, using food as soft diplomacy. When dignitaries come to the United States from North Africa, I will cook for them. The main task, though is for me to travel and talk about how we care about the world, and care about the environment...that covers what we eat, what we produce and our children.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Imagine if you have a Japanese dignitary coming to the U.S. who has food made by an American with strong links to Japan. It will show them we care and that they are cared for, and I think that’s really important. This whole thing is labeled soft diplomacy. There’s also hard diplomacy, which is the typical way of doing diplomacy. I’m really surprised that it’s taken this long for this initiative to happen. Food is the one thing that we all put into our own body to achieve many purposes: to survive, to be entertained. By cooking, you’re sustaining someone’s life. It’s a very powerful but overlooked way of achieving diplomacy. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I will travel to New York and Washington, D.C., as well as abroad. Every time I go abroad, I have to go to the embassies and consulates. I also will do conferences, events and connect with people on the internet. It’s not just a title, and you don’t just show up for an event. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dignitaries are coming to the United States on a daily basis. You’ll get advanced notice three days ahead, a week, three months -- of course, all the chefs are all stoked and really want to make sure it’s a success. It needs to be nurtured and taken care of. We would like other chefs to be invited to participate in this initiative so it grows. So the chefs are a very important part of this process.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What are you passionate about food-wise these days?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lahlou:\u003c/strong> I’ve really been obsessing and having a hard time with reduced sauces. You know when you eat a dish that’s really sticky and it’s been strained 20 times? It’s delicious and the flavor is deep and profound but it lacquers your tongue. You have to power wash to get it off. It’s so ugly. I’m experimenting with figuring out the components in the sauce so that I can reduce it without it getting sticky, so that it stays runny. If I can figure out how to break the molecules, then I will have a brothy sauce that is also reduced, flavorful and amazing. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Do you have favorite food/drink spots in the Bay Area?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lahlou:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nMy favorite spot to slurp a bowl of noodles is \u003ca href=\"http://turtletowersf.com/\">Turtle Tower\u003c/a>. They have the best pho ga long in town. It’s a great chicken noodle soup with giblets, which is the bomb on a cold, foggy San Francisco summer day.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'd drive across town in rush hour traffic to eat at \u003ca href=\"http://coirestaurant.com/\">Coi\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.benusf.com/\">Benu\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.saisonsf.com/splash.html\">Saison\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.manresarestaurant.com/\">Manresa\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.commisrestaurant.com/\">Commis\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.spqrsf.com/\">SPQR\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.baragricole.com/\">Bar Agricole\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://outerlandssf.com/\">Outerlands\u003c/a>. I would actually walk across town in a rainy day to eat at any of these places. Did i mention that I would walk uphill both ways??\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nothing says San Francisco on a plate more than the Crab Louie served at \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/swan-oyster-depot-san-francisco\">Swan Oyster Depot\u003c/a>, which epitomizes San Francisco in every bite. It’s simple, delicious and crazy fresh seafood and the place to take any out-of-towner and watch them lick their fingers because they can't understand why the food is so deceptively tasty.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My go-to place on my night off is at home. I’d order whatever i feel like. It works every time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For sushi, \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/ino-sushi-san-francisco\">Ino Sushi\u003c/a> has out-of-this-world sushi by Chef Ino who gets to do whatever the f*ck he wants to. It's better that way.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The best tacos are from \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/el-gallo-giro-taco-truck-san-francisco\">El Gallo Giro\u003c/a> on 23rd street and Treat Avenue. They sell these out of a truck but they have the best tacos in town and they are ideal for eating while paying attention to something more serious than just food for a change. They are much tastier than pizza and they don't get stale as quickly. Try their roast chicken, which are so tasty that they make you not miss pork at all.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For my best late night hangout, if it's before 1am, I would choose \u003ca href=\"http://nopasf.com/\">Nopa\u003c/a>. I love their burger and roast chicken. You can't beat it at that hour of the night, morning or whatever it's called. If we're talking after 1am, then it's \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/my-canh-san-francisco\">My Canh\u003c/a> on Broadway, for cheap, tasty grub made when most decent cooks in the city are too tired and drowning in their beer or cocktails; this is San Francisco after all.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Who are your mentors?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lahlou:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://www.joycegoldstein.com/\">Joyce Goldstein\u003c/a> is an amazing human being. She’s known me 16 or 17 years. She’s a great friend and is so honest to a fault. She’ll tell you something to your face and I love that. She cares even on a more profound level. We’ve been friends and close for so many years. She respects and loves what I do and always tells me her opinion. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What are the pros and cons of building a restaurant business?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lahlou: \u003c/strong>The pros are the community. You’re dealing with people who frequent your restaurant who know and appreciate food. Where else can you see someone from another region and country and have it be a success. Look at Mission Chinese, at Bar Tartine. We are so open-minded and embracing of other cultures...That’s a huge draw for me. I feel like people allow me to experiment. They don’t stigmatize me with ethnicity. They don’t ask you to be the same. They don’t have a set of prejudices. They give you room to grow and experiment. When I first started, I was doing traditional Moroccan. I grew and people allowed me to do it differently and to grow. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The produce, farmers and community are also great. It makes it so much easier having easy access to them. We tend to take for granted that. I go to New York quite a bit but our produce puts them to shame. Take Joe’s Early Girl tomatoes, which are so amazing by themselves. They’re like a bundle of flavor that just explodes in your mouth. I think it’s wonderful to get up and go to the farmers' market and then be able to cook with the produce. One of the hardest things is to go to other places and use different tomatoes. You have to manipulate the food more to make it taste better.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The hardest thing about having a restaurant in the Bay Area is that no matter what, it’s a small town. You get a limited area, surrounded with water. It doesn't expand like L.A., which makes it so intimate and limited in a way, you know? Restaurants are opening all the time. The problem I have is: the quality of the cooks. There are great cooks but it’s really hard to find and hold on to great cooks. That’s one issue that has to be addressed sooner or later. It doesn’t allow for one place to have a bunch of great cooks who can elevate to the next level. The cost of living in the Bay Area is so, so high so cooks end up leaving and going somewhere else -- back to New York, Chicago or L.A. because they just can’t be there. We end up losing them. I call it the brain drain because we lose the smartest, brightest cooks. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: How did you learn to cook such great food?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lahlou:\u003c/strong> The environment was really fertile for me to grow in a culinary sense. If my family would have known I was going to be a cook, to travel 6,000 miles to cook, they would have revolted. It would not even be an acceptable option for me. I allowed myself to be exposed to different cultures. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was going to go to college in France and stay with my aunt. I had an idea that I wanted to instead go to America. My grandpa wanted to find a way to tell me “It’s not a great idea, but yeah, if you want to get a visa, just know that it’s extremely hard.” Once he said it at the table in front of everyone, I was able to give it a try. I got a five-year visa and was so excited. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Everyone was shocked. My family had promised I could do it and within two to three weeks I was in a plane on my way to San Francisco. I was so homesick and business was hard. I couldn’t fly back to Morocco; it takes a day to fly back there. The one thing I could do to connect to them was food -- I started making things and it was terrible. I was so lost and so sad, there were so many tears and sleepless nights. Eventually I started using my memory to recreate the days and memories with all the women shopping and cooking in Morocco. I was really reliving those moments. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, in Morocco there are no recipes. I would call someone and say “how did you make that tagine?” they’d say a “pinch of this and pinch of that.” I was in college (at San Francisco State) for economics but I was learning how to preserve things, how to break down a fish and how to cook, really. Eventually by the time I was finished with college, people said, “You should open a restaurant.” I had $3,700 to my name and so I opened a restaurant. I had no idea what I had gotten myself into. Once I opened the restaurant, it was traditional food, and I started to watch people eat, and talk to people about themselves and their food preferences. I started to realize that food has to have a sense of place. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Food has to connect people to where there are. I can’t cook food in the same way it’s made in Morocco. Food connects people to their past. They want to taste the stew that their great grandma made. It’s not Facebook or Twitter that connects us, it’s through memories and through food. It's how we stay connected to people and the past. Here in America it’s always “What’s new?” and “What are the trends?” People are always looking into the future here. I was stuck because the way I was cooking was in the past. But the way people are here is that they look into the future, looking at the ingredients. Food here is a religion, a way of life... where is that carrot and chicken from? There’s an obsession here. I had to change the way I was thinking about food. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was taking those ideas -- the foods from Marrakesh and making it in SF but it didn’t make any sense. What I’m making now is food for the Bay Area. I think that’s what’s really cool. \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/560BAB_Mourad-Lahlou-Deborah-Jones-2.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/560BAB_Mourad-Lahlou-Deborah-Jones-2.jpg\" alt=\"Mourad Lahlou. Photo: Deborah Jones\" title=\"Mourad Lahlou. Photo: Deborah Jones\" width=\"560\" height=\"373\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50274\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Mourad Lahlou. Photo: Deborah Jones\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Self-taught chef and restaurateur Mourad Lahlou is the one name repeatedly whispered at industry events as someone who is innovative and daring. Lahlou’s first cookbook “\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Mourad-New-Moroccan-Lahlou/dp/1579654290\">Mourad: New Moroccan\u003c/a>” came out last year and the recipes reveal his personal interpretation of his native Moroccan cuisine. Eating at his Michelin starred restaurant \u003ca href=\"http://www.aziza-sf.com/\">Aziza\u003c/a> remains a popular “must-do” for many, and Lahlou was recently appointed a culinary ambassador by Secretary of State \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodpolitics.com/wp-content/uploads/Diplomatic-Culinary-Partnership-Initiative-One-Pager.pdf\">Hillary Clinton\u003c/a>. Lahlou is also gearing up to open a new restaurant in downtown San Francisco, which Lahlou has said will be different than Aziza. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bay Area Bites caught up with Lahlou via a telephone and an email interview recently. His comments have been edited for length and clarity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: How did you become a culinary ambassador? How will it change your schedule?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lahlou:\u003c/strong> Hillary Clinton decided to start this new initiative called culinary diplomacy, using food as soft diplomacy. When dignitaries come to the United States from North Africa, I will cook for them. The main task, though is for me to travel and talk about how we care about the world, and care about the environment...that covers what we eat, what we produce and our children.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Imagine if you have a Japanese dignitary coming to the U.S. who has food made by an American with strong links to Japan. It will show them we care and that they are cared for, and I think that’s really important. This whole thing is labeled soft diplomacy. There’s also hard diplomacy, which is the typical way of doing diplomacy. I’m really surprised that it’s taken this long for this initiative to happen. Food is the one thing that we all put into our own body to achieve many purposes: to survive, to be entertained. By cooking, you’re sustaining someone’s life. It’s a very powerful but overlooked way of achieving diplomacy. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I will travel to New York and Washington, D.C., as well as abroad. Every time I go abroad, I have to go to the embassies and consulates. I also will do conferences, events and connect with people on the internet. It’s not just a title, and you don’t just show up for an event. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dignitaries are coming to the United States on a daily basis. You’ll get advanced notice three days ahead, a week, three months -- of course, all the chefs are all stoked and really want to make sure it’s a success. It needs to be nurtured and taken care of. We would like other chefs to be invited to participate in this initiative so it grows. So the chefs are a very important part of this process.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What are you passionate about food-wise these days?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lahlou:\u003c/strong> I’ve really been obsessing and having a hard time with reduced sauces. You know when you eat a dish that’s really sticky and it’s been strained 20 times? It’s delicious and the flavor is deep and profound but it lacquers your tongue. You have to power wash to get it off. It’s so ugly. I’m experimenting with figuring out the components in the sauce so that I can reduce it without it getting sticky, so that it stays runny. If I can figure out how to break the molecules, then I will have a brothy sauce that is also reduced, flavorful and amazing. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Do you have favorite food/drink spots in the Bay Area?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lahlou:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nMy favorite spot to slurp a bowl of noodles is \u003ca href=\"http://turtletowersf.com/\">Turtle Tower\u003c/a>. They have the best pho ga long in town. It’s a great chicken noodle soup with giblets, which is the bomb on a cold, foggy San Francisco summer day.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'd drive across town in rush hour traffic to eat at \u003ca href=\"http://coirestaurant.com/\">Coi\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.benusf.com/\">Benu\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.saisonsf.com/splash.html\">Saison\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.manresarestaurant.com/\">Manresa\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.commisrestaurant.com/\">Commis\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.spqrsf.com/\">SPQR\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.baragricole.com/\">Bar Agricole\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://outerlandssf.com/\">Outerlands\u003c/a>. I would actually walk across town in a rainy day to eat at any of these places. Did i mention that I would walk uphill both ways??\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nothing says San Francisco on a plate more than the Crab Louie served at \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/swan-oyster-depot-san-francisco\">Swan Oyster Depot\u003c/a>, which epitomizes San Francisco in every bite. It’s simple, delicious and crazy fresh seafood and the place to take any out-of-towner and watch them lick their fingers because they can't understand why the food is so deceptively tasty.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My go-to place on my night off is at home. I’d order whatever i feel like. It works every time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For sushi, \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/ino-sushi-san-francisco\">Ino Sushi\u003c/a> has out-of-this-world sushi by Chef Ino who gets to do whatever the f*ck he wants to. It's better that way.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The best tacos are from \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/el-gallo-giro-taco-truck-san-francisco\">El Gallo Giro\u003c/a> on 23rd street and Treat Avenue. They sell these out of a truck but they have the best tacos in town and they are ideal for eating while paying attention to something more serious than just food for a change. They are much tastier than pizza and they don't get stale as quickly. Try their roast chicken, which are so tasty that they make you not miss pork at all.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For my best late night hangout, if it's before 1am, I would choose \u003ca href=\"http://nopasf.com/\">Nopa\u003c/a>. I love their burger and roast chicken. You can't beat it at that hour of the night, morning or whatever it's called. If we're talking after 1am, then it's \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/my-canh-san-francisco\">My Canh\u003c/a> on Broadway, for cheap, tasty grub made when most decent cooks in the city are too tired and drowning in their beer or cocktails; this is San Francisco after all.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Who are your mentors?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lahlou:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://www.joycegoldstein.com/\">Joyce Goldstein\u003c/a> is an amazing human being. She’s known me 16 or 17 years. She’s a great friend and is so honest to a fault. She’ll tell you something to your face and I love that. She cares even on a more profound level. We’ve been friends and close for so many years. She respects and loves what I do and always tells me her opinion. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What are the pros and cons of building a restaurant business?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lahlou: \u003c/strong>The pros are the community. You’re dealing with people who frequent your restaurant who know and appreciate food. Where else can you see someone from another region and country and have it be a success. Look at Mission Chinese, at Bar Tartine. We are so open-minded and embracing of other cultures...That’s a huge draw for me. I feel like people allow me to experiment. They don’t stigmatize me with ethnicity. They don’t ask you to be the same. They don’t have a set of prejudices. They give you room to grow and experiment. When I first started, I was doing traditional Moroccan. I grew and people allowed me to do it differently and to grow. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The produce, farmers and community are also great. It makes it so much easier having easy access to them. We tend to take for granted that. I go to New York quite a bit but our produce puts them to shame. Take Joe’s Early Girl tomatoes, which are so amazing by themselves. They’re like a bundle of flavor that just explodes in your mouth. I think it’s wonderful to get up and go to the farmers' market and then be able to cook with the produce. One of the hardest things is to go to other places and use different tomatoes. You have to manipulate the food more to make it taste better.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The hardest thing about having a restaurant in the Bay Area is that no matter what, it’s a small town. You get a limited area, surrounded with water. It doesn't expand like L.A., which makes it so intimate and limited in a way, you know? Restaurants are opening all the time. The problem I have is: the quality of the cooks. There are great cooks but it’s really hard to find and hold on to great cooks. That’s one issue that has to be addressed sooner or later. It doesn’t allow for one place to have a bunch of great cooks who can elevate to the next level. The cost of living in the Bay Area is so, so high so cooks end up leaving and going somewhere else -- back to New York, Chicago or L.A. because they just can’t be there. We end up losing them. I call it the brain drain because we lose the smartest, brightest cooks. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: How did you learn to cook such great food?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lahlou:\u003c/strong> The environment was really fertile for me to grow in a culinary sense. If my family would have known I was going to be a cook, to travel 6,000 miles to cook, they would have revolted. It would not even be an acceptable option for me. I allowed myself to be exposed to different cultures. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was going to go to college in France and stay with my aunt. I had an idea that I wanted to instead go to America. My grandpa wanted to find a way to tell me “It’s not a great idea, but yeah, if you want to get a visa, just know that it’s extremely hard.” Once he said it at the table in front of everyone, I was able to give it a try. I got a five-year visa and was so excited. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Everyone was shocked. My family had promised I could do it and within two to three weeks I was in a plane on my way to San Francisco. I was so homesick and business was hard. I couldn’t fly back to Morocco; it takes a day to fly back there. The one thing I could do to connect to them was food -- I started making things and it was terrible. I was so lost and so sad, there were so many tears and sleepless nights. Eventually I started using my memory to recreate the days and memories with all the women shopping and cooking in Morocco. I was really reliving those moments. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, in Morocco there are no recipes. I would call someone and say “how did you make that tagine?” they’d say a “pinch of this and pinch of that.” I was in college (at San Francisco State) for economics but I was learning how to preserve things, how to break down a fish and how to cook, really. Eventually by the time I was finished with college, people said, “You should open a restaurant.” I had $3,700 to my name and so I opened a restaurant. I had no idea what I had gotten myself into. Once I opened the restaurant, it was traditional food, and I started to watch people eat, and talk to people about themselves and their food preferences. I started to realize that food has to have a sense of place. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Food has to connect people to where there are. I can’t cook food in the same way it’s made in Morocco. Food connects people to their past. They want to taste the stew that their great grandma made. It’s not Facebook or Twitter that connects us, it’s through memories and through food. It's how we stay connected to people and the past. Here in America it’s always “What’s new?” and “What are the trends?” People are always looking into the future here. I was stuck because the way I was cooking was in the past. But the way people are here is that they look into the future, looking at the ingredients. Food here is a religion, a way of life... where is that carrot and chicken from? There’s an obsession here. I had to change the way I was thinking about food. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "Q&A with Chef Adam Dulye of Abbot’s Cellar",
"title": "Q&A with Chef Adam Dulye of Abbot’s Cellar",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/AdamDulye.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49537\" title=\"Adam Dulye. Photo: Melissa Fuller\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/AdamDulye.jpg\" alt=\"Adam Dulye. Photo: Melissa Fuller\" width=\"560\" height=\"373\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Adam Dulye. Photo: Melissa Fuller\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When \u003ca href=\"http://abbotscellar.com/\">Abbot’s Cellar\u003c/a> opened this summer in the Mission, the initial buzz was that it may become something more than a gastropub. The restaurant is considered a local launch for Adam Dulye, 34, who is the chef-owner and hails from Kansas City. Dulye is a a Culinary Institute of America graduate who spent time studying charcuterie and butchery in France after graduation. He first worked at \u003ca href=\"http://monkskettle.com/\">Monk’s Kettle\u003c/a>, which is the sister restaurant to Abbot’s Cellar. Before moving to the Bay Area, Dulye cooked in craft-beer centric locations in Boulder, Vail, and Portland, Oregon, where he caught the eye of the Brewers Association. In 2009, Dulye cooked at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.durango.org/press-room/press-releases.aspx?mode=detail&id=2009-02-04\">James Beard House\u003c/a>, at one of the foundation’s first beer and food pairing dinners.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dulye is the Culinary Consultant for the Brewers Association, and has spearheaded the culinary menus of several events including \u003ca href=\"http://www.savorcraftbeer.com/beer-food/chefs/\">SAVOR\u003c/a>: An American Craft Beer and Food Experience, the Farm to Table Pavilion at the Great American Beer Festival, and the \u003ca href=\"http://www.worldbeercup.org/\">2012 World Beer Cup Dinner\u003c/a>. In 2009 and 2010, Dulye worked with the Colorado Brewers Guild to showcase beer and food pairings at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodandwine.com/classic\">Aspen Food & Wine Classic\u003c/a>. The Noe Valley/Bernal Heights resident is currently consulting with author Janet Fletcher on a book highlighting artisan cheese and craft beer. October's tasting menu at Abbot's Cellar includes pairings like hand cut pasta with brown butter Chanterelle mushrooms, brocolli di ciccio and organic porter from \u003ca href=\"http://www.eelriverbrewing.com/\">Eel River Brewing\u003c/a>; bone marrow roasted root vegetables, chervil pistou with \u003ca href=\"http://www.firestonebeer.com/beers/products/dba-double-barrel-ale\">Double Barrel ale from Firestone Walker\u003c/a>; and for dessert a sour cream cheesecake, Marcona almond shortbread and honey gastrique paired with \u003ca href=\"http://www.moonlightbrewing.com/\">Moonlight Brewing’s\u003c/a> Change of Heart.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bay Area Bites caught up with Dulye via email and in person interviews and his comments have been edited for length and clarity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What do you hope to accomplish at Abbot’s Cellar as Chef-Owner? Is a Michelin star a goal?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Dulye:\u003c/strong> Getting the Michelin star was a one-liner that I used when we opened. The goal here is to keep the conversation going for beer and food, and push Abbot’s to be more than a dining establishment. For diners, that hopefully means that it’s more of an experience and that you leave with more than a full belly. If you focus on that, a lot of times, things like a Michelin star can follow.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/AbbotsCellar-pork-chop.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49538\" title=\"Abbots Cellar oven-roasted pork chop, caraway spaetzle, peaches and tarragon. Photo courtesy of Christian Albertson\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/AbbotsCellar-pork-chop.jpg\" alt=\"Abbots Cellar oven-roasted pork chop, caraway spaetzle, peaches and tarragon. Photo courtesy of Christian Albertson\" width=\"400\" height=\"602\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Abbot’s Cellar oven-roasted pork chop, caraway spaetzle, peaches and tarragon--a popular mainstay of the menu. Photo courtesy of Christian Albertson\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What are you most passionate about, food-wise? \u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Dulye:\u003c/strong> Right now one of the areas I am focusing on is highlighting the integrity of simple ingredients. I want to highlight what the farmer believes is ready to pick and how they want it presented. Take carrots for example, they can be prepared in a way that will allow them to shine in the dish, but they have to be harvested at the perfect time. Carrots are always around but when the farmer says, \"Do this with it now,\" then I want to highlight what they grow and not necessarily what I did with it. We took a batch of carrots from Heirloom Organics farm and did them on a plate: puree, roasted, pickled, and raw. I was seeing where the sugar level and texture were, and doing the puree was kind of a natural thing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Where do you get your information about food? What’s on your nightstand reading pile?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Dulye:\u003c/strong> It’s all over the place. On my nightstand table right now is the \u003ca href=\"http://www.rivercottage.net/shop/\">River Cottage\u003c/a> book. Oddly if you scrolled through my phone, the texts that go back and forth between chefs would make a pretty good read. Right now I’m texting a lot of brewers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My good friend Kyle in Colorado sent over a picture of a one pound Matsutake. He started mushroom foraging, and I did foraging when I lived there.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What are your thoughts on the state of beer pairing and food in the Bay Area? Where are we with knowledge and appreciation? \u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Dulye: \u003c/strong>Craft beer in general is on such a growth explosion. Beer pairing right now in the Bay Area is on its way up and there are some really great chefs and restaurants doing some great pairings. With anything else you have to search through all the places doing pairings and find who is really doing a great job and who is just putting a beer on the menu for the name of the beer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As far as knowledge goes, the Bay Area is at a bit of a plateau. Not in a bad way. There is so much to learn and the basics have been hit. Most people know about IPA, Pale Ale, Stout, and Porter, etc. But now we have sours being the \"it\" beer in the Bay right now and the knowledge there is pretty low. Collaboration beers and new versions of old styles are coming out all the time and it is a challenge for everyone to keep up. Sours and IPAs range and people think, \"that’s what it’s supposed to taste like.\" There’s so much polar difference from IPA to IPA. It’s a good thing and a bad thing. People want to learn more about beer. But it’s challenging because people think IPA is the most popular beer style and you have to like it. If you don’t like it, they think it’s not for you.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Appreciation for beer in the Bay Area is at an all-time high. The amount of people who have had their \"a-ha\" that's what beer can do moment is growing and people are seeking to expand their knowledge. Honestly, the best beer you have is the one right in front of you.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: How did you get into pairing beer with food?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Dulye:\u003c/strong> I grew up in Kansas City, where \u003ca href=\"http://www.boulevard.com/wp-content/themes/boulevard960/ageverify.php?r=http://www.boulevard.com\">Boulevard\u003c/a> is the pillar of brewing. I was doing a lot of different wine, beer and spirits dinners when I was younger. When I was in Vail I did an event called Taste of Vail that was up on top of Vail and a 3000 person event. I was going to lick the snow wall, and thought, this is painfully bright and rather warm. There was one brewer there and we ended up talking and having a few beers. Being in Colorado, it kind of rolled into doing other things with breweries there and I just kept doing it. It was fun. And I enjoyed the people I was working with and how open people are. That openness is unique to brewing and everyone’s willing to share what they know. That’s a rare thing in a competitive industry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What are some of your favorite food and drink spots in the Bay Area?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Dulye:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://www.rockbarsf.com/\">Rock Bar\u003c/a> for a Manhattan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I get coffee every morning at \u003ca href=\"http://www.caffefioresf.com/\">Cafe Fiore\u003c/a> on 24th Street. That counts, right? Coffee is a Bay Area \"drink\" now.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.rangesf.com/\">Range\u003c/a> is a great neighbor to have for both food and cocktails. I tend to drink cocktails and wine when I go out more often than beer. I want to try the experience that they are offering.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Do you have any foods that are a guilty pleasure?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Dulye:\u003c/strong> Peanut butter cookies. Well, just cookies. Every now and then a warm cookie is a relaxing thing.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Mary Ladd interviews Adam Dulye, who is the Chef-Owner of Abbot's Cellar, which is a beer-centric fine dining outpost in the Mission. Dulye shares his thoughts on why he wants to keep the conversation going with diners about beer and food, as well as his favorite spots to eat and drink.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/AdamDulye.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49537\" title=\"Adam Dulye. Photo: Melissa Fuller\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/AdamDulye.jpg\" alt=\"Adam Dulye. Photo: Melissa Fuller\" width=\"560\" height=\"373\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Adam Dulye. Photo: Melissa Fuller\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When \u003ca href=\"http://abbotscellar.com/\">Abbot’s Cellar\u003c/a> opened this summer in the Mission, the initial buzz was that it may become something more than a gastropub. The restaurant is considered a local launch for Adam Dulye, 34, who is the chef-owner and hails from Kansas City. Dulye is a a Culinary Institute of America graduate who spent time studying charcuterie and butchery in France after graduation. He first worked at \u003ca href=\"http://monkskettle.com/\">Monk’s Kettle\u003c/a>, which is the sister restaurant to Abbot’s Cellar. Before moving to the Bay Area, Dulye cooked in craft-beer centric locations in Boulder, Vail, and Portland, Oregon, where he caught the eye of the Brewers Association. In 2009, Dulye cooked at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.durango.org/press-room/press-releases.aspx?mode=detail&id=2009-02-04\">James Beard House\u003c/a>, at one of the foundation’s first beer and food pairing dinners.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dulye is the Culinary Consultant for the Brewers Association, and has spearheaded the culinary menus of several events including \u003ca href=\"http://www.savorcraftbeer.com/beer-food/chefs/\">SAVOR\u003c/a>: An American Craft Beer and Food Experience, the Farm to Table Pavilion at the Great American Beer Festival, and the \u003ca href=\"http://www.worldbeercup.org/\">2012 World Beer Cup Dinner\u003c/a>. In 2009 and 2010, Dulye worked with the Colorado Brewers Guild to showcase beer and food pairings at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodandwine.com/classic\">Aspen Food & Wine Classic\u003c/a>. The Noe Valley/Bernal Heights resident is currently consulting with author Janet Fletcher on a book highlighting artisan cheese and craft beer. October's tasting menu at Abbot's Cellar includes pairings like hand cut pasta with brown butter Chanterelle mushrooms, brocolli di ciccio and organic porter from \u003ca href=\"http://www.eelriverbrewing.com/\">Eel River Brewing\u003c/a>; bone marrow roasted root vegetables, chervil pistou with \u003ca href=\"http://www.firestonebeer.com/beers/products/dba-double-barrel-ale\">Double Barrel ale from Firestone Walker\u003c/a>; and for dessert a sour cream cheesecake, Marcona almond shortbread and honey gastrique paired with \u003ca href=\"http://www.moonlightbrewing.com/\">Moonlight Brewing’s\u003c/a> Change of Heart.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bay Area Bites caught up with Dulye via email and in person interviews and his comments have been edited for length and clarity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What do you hope to accomplish at Abbot’s Cellar as Chef-Owner? Is a Michelin star a goal?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Dulye:\u003c/strong> Getting the Michelin star was a one-liner that I used when we opened. The goal here is to keep the conversation going for beer and food, and push Abbot’s to be more than a dining establishment. For diners, that hopefully means that it’s more of an experience and that you leave with more than a full belly. If you focus on that, a lot of times, things like a Michelin star can follow.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/AbbotsCellar-pork-chop.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49538\" title=\"Abbots Cellar oven-roasted pork chop, caraway spaetzle, peaches and tarragon. Photo courtesy of Christian Albertson\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/AbbotsCellar-pork-chop.jpg\" alt=\"Abbots Cellar oven-roasted pork chop, caraway spaetzle, peaches and tarragon. Photo courtesy of Christian Albertson\" width=\"400\" height=\"602\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Abbot’s Cellar oven-roasted pork chop, caraway spaetzle, peaches and tarragon--a popular mainstay of the menu. Photo courtesy of Christian Albertson\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What are you most passionate about, food-wise? \u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Dulye:\u003c/strong> Right now one of the areas I am focusing on is highlighting the integrity of simple ingredients. I want to highlight what the farmer believes is ready to pick and how they want it presented. Take carrots for example, they can be prepared in a way that will allow them to shine in the dish, but they have to be harvested at the perfect time. Carrots are always around but when the farmer says, \"Do this with it now,\" then I want to highlight what they grow and not necessarily what I did with it. We took a batch of carrots from Heirloom Organics farm and did them on a plate: puree, roasted, pickled, and raw. I was seeing where the sugar level and texture were, and doing the puree was kind of a natural thing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Where do you get your information about food? What’s on your nightstand reading pile?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Dulye:\u003c/strong> It’s all over the place. On my nightstand table right now is the \u003ca href=\"http://www.rivercottage.net/shop/\">River Cottage\u003c/a> book. Oddly if you scrolled through my phone, the texts that go back and forth between chefs would make a pretty good read. Right now I’m texting a lot of brewers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My good friend Kyle in Colorado sent over a picture of a one pound Matsutake. He started mushroom foraging, and I did foraging when I lived there.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What are your thoughts on the state of beer pairing and food in the Bay Area? Where are we with knowledge and appreciation? \u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Dulye: \u003c/strong>Craft beer in general is on such a growth explosion. Beer pairing right now in the Bay Area is on its way up and there are some really great chefs and restaurants doing some great pairings. With anything else you have to search through all the places doing pairings and find who is really doing a great job and who is just putting a beer on the menu for the name of the beer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As far as knowledge goes, the Bay Area is at a bit of a plateau. Not in a bad way. There is so much to learn and the basics have been hit. Most people know about IPA, Pale Ale, Stout, and Porter, etc. But now we have sours being the \"it\" beer in the Bay right now and the knowledge there is pretty low. Collaboration beers and new versions of old styles are coming out all the time and it is a challenge for everyone to keep up. Sours and IPAs range and people think, \"that’s what it’s supposed to taste like.\" There’s so much polar difference from IPA to IPA. It’s a good thing and a bad thing. People want to learn more about beer. But it’s challenging because people think IPA is the most popular beer style and you have to like it. If you don’t like it, they think it’s not for you.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Appreciation for beer in the Bay Area is at an all-time high. The amount of people who have had their \"a-ha\" that's what beer can do moment is growing and people are seeking to expand their knowledge. Honestly, the best beer you have is the one right in front of you.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: How did you get into pairing beer with food?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Dulye:\u003c/strong> I grew up in Kansas City, where \u003ca href=\"http://www.boulevard.com/wp-content/themes/boulevard960/ageverify.php?r=http://www.boulevard.com\">Boulevard\u003c/a> is the pillar of brewing. I was doing a lot of different wine, beer and spirits dinners when I was younger. When I was in Vail I did an event called Taste of Vail that was up on top of Vail and a 3000 person event. I was going to lick the snow wall, and thought, this is painfully bright and rather warm. There was one brewer there and we ended up talking and having a few beers. Being in Colorado, it kind of rolled into doing other things with breweries there and I just kept doing it. It was fun. And I enjoyed the people I was working with and how open people are. That openness is unique to brewing and everyone’s willing to share what they know. That’s a rare thing in a competitive industry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What are some of your favorite food and drink spots in the Bay Area?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Dulye:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://www.rockbarsf.com/\">Rock Bar\u003c/a> for a Manhattan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I get coffee every morning at \u003ca href=\"http://www.caffefioresf.com/\">Cafe Fiore\u003c/a> on 24th Street. That counts, right? Coffee is a Bay Area \"drink\" now.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.rangesf.com/\">Range\u003c/a> is a great neighbor to have for both food and cocktails. I tend to drink cocktails and wine when I go out more often than beer. I want to try the experience that they are offering.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Do you have any foods that are a guilty pleasure?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Dulye:\u003c/strong> Peanut butter cookies. Well, just cookies. Every now and then a warm cookie is a relaxing thing.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "An Interview with Charles Phan, Author of \"Vietnamese Home Cooking\"",
"title": "An Interview with Charles Phan, Author of \"Vietnamese Home Cooking\"",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/560_BAB_CharlesPhan_ImagesBy-EricWolfinger.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/560_BAB_CharlesPhan_ImagesBy-EricWolfinger.jpg\" alt=\"Charles Phan. Images courtesy of Eric Wolfinger.\" title=\"Charles Phan. Images courtesy of Eric Wolfinger.\" width=\"560\" height=\"373\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49674\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Charles Phan. Image courtesy of Eric Wolfinger.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Getting a reservation at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.slanteddoor.com/\">Slanted Door\u003c/a> is a constant challenge for both locals and tourists which shows the power of home-style Vietnamese dishes like shaking beef, crab noodles and spring rolls served in a stylish setting with fabulous views. There’s now something of a solution for those pining for a Slanted Door fix: Chef-Restaurateur Charles Phan has a new cookbook called “\u003ca href=\"http://www.scribd.com/doc/104012307/Vietnamese-Home-Cooking\">Vietnamese Home Cooking\u003c/a>.” The book is Phan’s first and offers how-to tips for creating dishes like black cod with lily buds and dried shiitakes, lemongrass beef stew, pork and shrimp spring rolls, and Sichuan cucumber pickles. Phan will be discussing his book at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.commonwealthclub.org/events/2012-10-04/chef-charles-phan\">Commonwealth Club\u003c/a> tonight Thursday, October 4. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.scribd.com/doc/104012307/Vietnamese-Home-Cooking\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/400_CoverArt_Vietnamese-Home-Cooking.jpg\" alt=\"Vietnamese Home Cooking by Charles Phan\" title=\"Vietnamese Home Cooking by Charles Phan\" width=\"400\" height=\"493\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49673\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Phan put Vietnamese cooking on the American culinary landscape when he opened the Slanted Door restaurant on Valencia Street in the Mission back in 1995. It was the first restaurant of its type to offer high-end Vietnamese food, often made with farm-fresh and as-local-as-possible ingredients. From there, he has built a mini-empire of Bay Area restaurants and was one of the first anchor tenants to sign on to the remodeled Ferry Building landmark in 2004. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That year, he won the James Beard Foundation award for Best Chef, California and in 2011 was inducted into the foundation's \u003ca href=\"http://sf.eater.com/archives/2011/05/10/mike_tusk_and_charles_phan_win_james_beard_restaurant_and_chef_awards_2011_mike_tusk_and_charles_pha.php\">Who's Who of Food & Beverage in America\u003c/a>. Born in Da Lat, Vietnam in 1962, Phan and his parents and siblings all relocated to Guam just before the fall of Saigon. They spent two years there before settling in San Francisco in 1977. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bay Area Bites talked to Phan via phone interview about his new book, cooking with Alice Waters, his “refugee thinking” and upcoming Bourbon and fried chicken “Southern bar” concept. His comments have been edited for clarity and length.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Why do a book now?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nPhan: I needed more recipes to fill the book so I had to wait. [Laughs.] The recipes are all similar to what we do at the restaurant, which is to promote Vietnamese cooking. I think a lot of people don't understand the way and how Vietnamese eat their food and what the philosophy is behind each technique. We have to explain that all the time and tell people “this is how you eat the food.” I did the book because I hope there’s interest. I lunch every year with the Ten Speed and Chronicle Books folks, and they’ve encouraged me for the last ten years to do this book. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Out the Door at the Westfield Mall shuttered under somewhat mysterious circumstances. What happened?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nPhan: I can’t really talk about it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Where do you see yourself in relation to being a cook and businessman?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nPhan: For the title of chef or cook, I don’t really differentiate. At the end of day, you’re making food for people. I didn’t come from formal training. Yet, we’re all after the same thing -- making amazing food for people. I don’t really worry about the hierarchy of a name. I think every chef is nervous about what they do. If not, then it’s not interesting. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As for business, it’s like doing homework in college. If you want to pass the test, you have to do it. Or you blow it and don’t turn in your paper. A lot of people become our family soon after they become our staff. I don't see them leaving and so it makes sense for me to figure out a way to make a lot of money for all of us, a nest egg. Work-wise, we grow and change and can’t always be in the same spot. Like when a bartender becomes a bar manager, we can take that into account when we're looking at growing the business. We’re about to start a bourbon concept and will be able to move as a group. We may do something that’s cocktail-centric but food’s always in play. Maybe the next project could be a wine bar. It’s really about growing the family so we don't put all our eggs in one basket. I enjoy the business and work side of it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/560_BABVHC_VietnameseMeal_ImagesBy-EricWolfinger.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/560_BABVHC_VietnameseMeal_ImagesBy-EricWolfinger.jpg\" alt=\"Vietnamese meal. Image courtesy of Eric Wolfinger.\" title=\"Vietnamese meal. Image courtesy of Eric Wolfinger.\" width=\"560\" height=\"373\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49675\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Vietnamese meal. Image courtesy of Eric Wolfinger.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even with the existing restaurant, we look at how to improve and change it so we’re not stagnant. We’re always asking, “Is there anything else we can do?” Also people come for shaking beef... they are looking for that and that’s what they want. Especially if it takes a couple of weeks to get a reservation! \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was just cooking at \u003ca href=\"http://www.chezpanisse.com/reservations/\">Chez Panisse\u003c/a> the other night, for the book tour. And Alice said “You’re so good at this and so comfortable.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And I said, “Yeah, I don’t get to do this every day. I have other obligations.” She said if she had her druthers, she’d also be in the kitchen every day. But we are grown-ups so we have to take care of things.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: You live near the Fillmore. Do you have any favorite food or drink spots?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nPhan: If I go home, I go home. I promised my kids that I’ll be home 3-4 nights a week. Yet I don’t go home every night by dinnertime. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.chutneysf.com/\">Chutney\u003c/a> is one of my favorites. Usually, I get a cocktail at \u003ca href=\"http://www.bourbonandbranch.com/\">Bourbon and Branch\u003c/a> or at \u003ca href=\"http://tradbar.com/\">Tradition bar\u003c/a> across the street. There I can get high-end cocktails and good food. At Chutney, I really like their food and I don’t have to make a reservation. I think a lot of restaurant people can’t deal with doing a reservation at a restaurant on a busy night.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For cocktails, often I drink at my own place because I get them for free. [Laughs.] At least in my head I’m not paying.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.baragricole.com/\">Bar Agricole\u003c/a> is a good spot.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We’re doing a whole bourbon and fried chicken “Southern bar” concept. I’m working with my good friend Olle Lundberg. He and I both got addicted to bourbon, which is why were doing this project. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I didn’t really drink a lot of cocktails until we moved to the Ferry Building. I started with a Margarita and tequila. Next thing you know I tried bourbon. I tend to like it straight up and neat to cut back on the sugar. Bourbon is sort of like the alcohol of choice. It’s going to be harder and harder to get good bourbon. Big companies are taking over all these small distilleries.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Who are your mentors?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nPhan: My father. My parents ended up doing stuff they’d never done before. They opened a sewing shop -- and my mother had never threaded before. I call it the refugee thinking. Do your homework, and if you can deal with the worst-case scenario, you can deal with it. And if you can’t, you can’t. I always look to other chefs and reflect on what they are doing. With Alice Waters and her restaurant: when I was in Berkeley, it was seeing not just how she did the organic thing but the way she runs her business. Her menu was small. She’d put up six to seven items and customers would come in to eat. Prior to that, most Chinese restaurants had 100 items. That just gave me the confidence I needed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What are the pros and cons of building a restaurant business? Do you have any funny stories?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nPhan: I was cooking at Chez Panisse, cooking on Monday and it was really hot. I felt like people were making fun of me for bringing Vietnamese food to Berkeley and also the weather from Vietnam. On the second seating, the power went out and we had to put out the fire. There was smoke and dust everywhere. I looked like I had Richard Gere’s hair -- it was grey. [Laughs.] I don’t look like Richard Gere. I wish I did. But I had his hair! That’s how it rolls. Nobody seemed to care that we didn’t have power. We made everybody’s food and the power went out twice. I just had a long shower after that. I was covered in dust and soot. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: How did you learn to cook such great food?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nPhan: I think the key is to learn how to eat first. If you are exposed to a lot of great food and you start building your vocabulary of flavor. First you need the palate: how to visualize the picture and how to get there. I think the book is the same -- learning how to know each dish and visualize it. Just don’t come and tell me “it’s really good.” I do that to kids a lot -- my goal is to really affect kids and get them addicted to good food. There may be a lot of things like drugs and stuff to get addicted to; I think food is better because they’ll see the joy in it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Have you ever experienced racism in kitchen?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nPhan: The first week we opened, people were expecting free tea. Every restaurant at that time gave out free tea. The whole point of opening the Slanted Door was to combat stereotypes. I think it’s just a lot of stereotypes -- customers come in saying, “where’s the bread?” They don’t do that at a $4.99 Chinese restaurant. People are very funny about expectations and pricing. A lot of people think they can get cheaper food in the Tenderloin. But obviously there are enough people that agree with my pricing. There’s a way to pay for the farmer, pay for the worker. At the end of the day it’s a capitalist society. You are not supposed to charge more than your colleague with the same genre of restaurant. But that doesn’t bother me. I am challenged by that obstacle, and look at it as a puzzle to figure out. We’re a little different and I’m completely comfortable in what I’m charging and what pork I’m serving. At some point you can’t please everybody. You shouldn’t put out food you don’t like. I’m not a big mussel fan so it’s not on the menu. That’s just my preference. \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/560_BAB_CharlesPhan_ImagesBy-EricWolfinger.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/560_BAB_CharlesPhan_ImagesBy-EricWolfinger.jpg\" alt=\"Charles Phan. Images courtesy of Eric Wolfinger.\" title=\"Charles Phan. Images courtesy of Eric Wolfinger.\" width=\"560\" height=\"373\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49674\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Charles Phan. Image courtesy of Eric Wolfinger.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Getting a reservation at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.slanteddoor.com/\">Slanted Door\u003c/a> is a constant challenge for both locals and tourists which shows the power of home-style Vietnamese dishes like shaking beef, crab noodles and spring rolls served in a stylish setting with fabulous views. There’s now something of a solution for those pining for a Slanted Door fix: Chef-Restaurateur Charles Phan has a new cookbook called “\u003ca href=\"http://www.scribd.com/doc/104012307/Vietnamese-Home-Cooking\">Vietnamese Home Cooking\u003c/a>.” The book is Phan’s first and offers how-to tips for creating dishes like black cod with lily buds and dried shiitakes, lemongrass beef stew, pork and shrimp spring rolls, and Sichuan cucumber pickles. Phan will be discussing his book at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.commonwealthclub.org/events/2012-10-04/chef-charles-phan\">Commonwealth Club\u003c/a> tonight Thursday, October 4. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.scribd.com/doc/104012307/Vietnamese-Home-Cooking\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/400_CoverArt_Vietnamese-Home-Cooking.jpg\" alt=\"Vietnamese Home Cooking by Charles Phan\" title=\"Vietnamese Home Cooking by Charles Phan\" width=\"400\" height=\"493\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49673\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Phan put Vietnamese cooking on the American culinary landscape when he opened the Slanted Door restaurant on Valencia Street in the Mission back in 1995. It was the first restaurant of its type to offer high-end Vietnamese food, often made with farm-fresh and as-local-as-possible ingredients. From there, he has built a mini-empire of Bay Area restaurants and was one of the first anchor tenants to sign on to the remodeled Ferry Building landmark in 2004. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That year, he won the James Beard Foundation award for Best Chef, California and in 2011 was inducted into the foundation's \u003ca href=\"http://sf.eater.com/archives/2011/05/10/mike_tusk_and_charles_phan_win_james_beard_restaurant_and_chef_awards_2011_mike_tusk_and_charles_pha.php\">Who's Who of Food & Beverage in America\u003c/a>. Born in Da Lat, Vietnam in 1962, Phan and his parents and siblings all relocated to Guam just before the fall of Saigon. They spent two years there before settling in San Francisco in 1977. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bay Area Bites talked to Phan via phone interview about his new book, cooking with Alice Waters, his “refugee thinking” and upcoming Bourbon and fried chicken “Southern bar” concept. His comments have been edited for clarity and length.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Why do a book now?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nPhan: I needed more recipes to fill the book so I had to wait. [Laughs.] The recipes are all similar to what we do at the restaurant, which is to promote Vietnamese cooking. I think a lot of people don't understand the way and how Vietnamese eat their food and what the philosophy is behind each technique. We have to explain that all the time and tell people “this is how you eat the food.” I did the book because I hope there’s interest. I lunch every year with the Ten Speed and Chronicle Books folks, and they’ve encouraged me for the last ten years to do this book. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Out the Door at the Westfield Mall shuttered under somewhat mysterious circumstances. What happened?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nPhan: I can’t really talk about it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Where do you see yourself in relation to being a cook and businessman?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nPhan: For the title of chef or cook, I don’t really differentiate. At the end of day, you’re making food for people. I didn’t come from formal training. Yet, we’re all after the same thing -- making amazing food for people. I don’t really worry about the hierarchy of a name. I think every chef is nervous about what they do. If not, then it’s not interesting. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As for business, it’s like doing homework in college. If you want to pass the test, you have to do it. Or you blow it and don’t turn in your paper. A lot of people become our family soon after they become our staff. I don't see them leaving and so it makes sense for me to figure out a way to make a lot of money for all of us, a nest egg. Work-wise, we grow and change and can’t always be in the same spot. Like when a bartender becomes a bar manager, we can take that into account when we're looking at growing the business. We’re about to start a bourbon concept and will be able to move as a group. We may do something that’s cocktail-centric but food’s always in play. Maybe the next project could be a wine bar. It’s really about growing the family so we don't put all our eggs in one basket. I enjoy the business and work side of it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/560_BABVHC_VietnameseMeal_ImagesBy-EricWolfinger.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/560_BABVHC_VietnameseMeal_ImagesBy-EricWolfinger.jpg\" alt=\"Vietnamese meal. Image courtesy of Eric Wolfinger.\" title=\"Vietnamese meal. Image courtesy of Eric Wolfinger.\" width=\"560\" height=\"373\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49675\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Vietnamese meal. Image courtesy of Eric Wolfinger.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even with the existing restaurant, we look at how to improve and change it so we’re not stagnant. We’re always asking, “Is there anything else we can do?” Also people come for shaking beef... they are looking for that and that’s what they want. Especially if it takes a couple of weeks to get a reservation! \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was just cooking at \u003ca href=\"http://www.chezpanisse.com/reservations/\">Chez Panisse\u003c/a> the other night, for the book tour. And Alice said “You’re so good at this and so comfortable.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And I said, “Yeah, I don’t get to do this every day. I have other obligations.” She said if she had her druthers, she’d also be in the kitchen every day. But we are grown-ups so we have to take care of things.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: You live near the Fillmore. Do you have any favorite food or drink spots?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nPhan: If I go home, I go home. I promised my kids that I’ll be home 3-4 nights a week. Yet I don’t go home every night by dinnertime. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.chutneysf.com/\">Chutney\u003c/a> is one of my favorites. Usually, I get a cocktail at \u003ca href=\"http://www.bourbonandbranch.com/\">Bourbon and Branch\u003c/a> or at \u003ca href=\"http://tradbar.com/\">Tradition bar\u003c/a> across the street. There I can get high-end cocktails and good food. At Chutney, I really like their food and I don’t have to make a reservation. I think a lot of restaurant people can’t deal with doing a reservation at a restaurant on a busy night.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For cocktails, often I drink at my own place because I get them for free. [Laughs.] At least in my head I’m not paying.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.baragricole.com/\">Bar Agricole\u003c/a> is a good spot.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We’re doing a whole bourbon and fried chicken “Southern bar” concept. I’m working with my good friend Olle Lundberg. He and I both got addicted to bourbon, which is why were doing this project. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I didn’t really drink a lot of cocktails until we moved to the Ferry Building. I started with a Margarita and tequila. Next thing you know I tried bourbon. I tend to like it straight up and neat to cut back on the sugar. Bourbon is sort of like the alcohol of choice. It’s going to be harder and harder to get good bourbon. Big companies are taking over all these small distilleries.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Who are your mentors?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nPhan: My father. My parents ended up doing stuff they’d never done before. They opened a sewing shop -- and my mother had never threaded before. I call it the refugee thinking. Do your homework, and if you can deal with the worst-case scenario, you can deal with it. And if you can’t, you can’t. I always look to other chefs and reflect on what they are doing. With Alice Waters and her restaurant: when I was in Berkeley, it was seeing not just how she did the organic thing but the way she runs her business. Her menu was small. She’d put up six to seven items and customers would come in to eat. Prior to that, most Chinese restaurants had 100 items. That just gave me the confidence I needed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What are the pros and cons of building a restaurant business? Do you have any funny stories?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nPhan: I was cooking at Chez Panisse, cooking on Monday and it was really hot. I felt like people were making fun of me for bringing Vietnamese food to Berkeley and also the weather from Vietnam. On the second seating, the power went out and we had to put out the fire. There was smoke and dust everywhere. I looked like I had Richard Gere’s hair -- it was grey. [Laughs.] I don’t look like Richard Gere. I wish I did. But I had his hair! That’s how it rolls. Nobody seemed to care that we didn’t have power. We made everybody’s food and the power went out twice. I just had a long shower after that. I was covered in dust and soot. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: How did you learn to cook such great food?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nPhan: I think the key is to learn how to eat first. If you are exposed to a lot of great food and you start building your vocabulary of flavor. First you need the palate: how to visualize the picture and how to get there. I think the book is the same -- learning how to know each dish and visualize it. Just don’t come and tell me “it’s really good.” I do that to kids a lot -- my goal is to really affect kids and get them addicted to good food. There may be a lot of things like drugs and stuff to get addicted to; I think food is better because they’ll see the joy in it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Have you ever experienced racism in kitchen?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nPhan: The first week we opened, people were expecting free tea. Every restaurant at that time gave out free tea. The whole point of opening the Slanted Door was to combat stereotypes. I think it’s just a lot of stereotypes -- customers come in saying, “where’s the bread?” They don’t do that at a $4.99 Chinese restaurant. People are very funny about expectations and pricing. A lot of people think they can get cheaper food in the Tenderloin. But obviously there are enough people that agree with my pricing. There’s a way to pay for the farmer, pay for the worker. At the end of the day it’s a capitalist society. You are not supposed to charge more than your colleague with the same genre of restaurant. But that doesn’t bother me. I am challenged by that obstacle, and look at it as a puzzle to figure out. We’re a little different and I’m completely comfortable in what I’m charging and what pork I’m serving. At some point you can’t please everybody. You shouldn’t put out food you don’t like. I’m not a big mussel fan so it’s not on the menu. That’s just my preference. \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "2012 Eat Real Festival: Day 3 Highlights",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/daniel-patterson1000d.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/daniel-patterson1000d.jpg\" alt=\"Milk-Fed Brunch at Eat Real Festival. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" title=\"Milk-Fed Brunch at Eat Real Festival. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"560\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49365\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Milk-Fed Brunch booth at Eat Real Festival.\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>All Photos:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/wendy-goodfriend/\">Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.coirestaurant.com\">Coi\u003c/a> chef \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/01/07/food-secrets-of-chefrestaurateurwriter-daniel-patterson/\">Daniel Patterson\u003c/a> isn't usually a five-bucks-a-plate kind of guy. \u003ca href=\"http://canerossosf.com/\">Il Cane Rosso\u003c/a> in the Ferry Building, his most casual spot, will make you a $9 egg-salad sandwich; at Jack London Square's \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/01/10/let-them-cook-for-you-haven/\">Haven\u003c/a>, $6 will buy you a side of Chantenay carrots with hay and \u003ca href=\"http://www.vadouvan.com/\">vadouvan\u003c/a>. Toying with the tasting menu at Coi, from abalone with nettle-dandelion salsa verde to frozen lime marshmallow, will set you back a cool 165 clams.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/daniel-patterson1000b.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/daniel-patterson1000b.jpg\" alt=\"Daniel Patterson and crew at 2012 Eat Real Festival in Oakland. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" title=\"Daniel Patterson and crew at 2012 Eat Real Festival in Oakland. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"560\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49363\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Daniel Patterson (center) and crew at Eat Real Festival's Sunday Milk-Fed Brunch\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But here was Patterson on a sunny Sunday morning in Oakland, surrounded by a crew of at least a dozen. Bent double over their folding-table workstations, they draped slices of grilled lamb over mounds of herby three-grain salad (farro, buckwheat, and wheat berries), doused cubes of poached veal in bone broth, and scooped slivers of string beans and fresh shelling beans over slices of fat-ringed pork confit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/danielpatterson-veal10001.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/danielpatterson-veal10001.jpg\" alt=\"Milk Poached Veal from Eat Real Sunday Milk-Fed Brunch. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" title=\"Milk Poached Veal from Eat Real Sunday Milk-Fed Brunch. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"560\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49397\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Milk Poached Veal from Eat Real Sunday Milk-Fed Brunch\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The price for each appetizer-sized plate? Five bucks, and did we mention that all the meat came from young, milk-fed animals (hence the name) raised on the pastures of \u003ca href=\"http://www.belcampoinc.com/inc/#!/company/about\">Belcampo Meats\u003c/a>?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/danielpatterson-lamb-pork500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/danielpatterson-lamb-pork500.jpg\" alt=\"Grilled Lamb and Pig Confit at Eat Real Sunday Milk-fed Brunch. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" title=\"Grilled Lamb and Pig Confit at Eat Real Sunday Milk-fed Brunch. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"500\" height=\"747\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49368\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Grilled Lamb and Pig Confit at Eat Real Sunday Milk-fed Brunch\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This was the Milk-Fed Brunch touted by \u003ca href=\"http://www.eatrealfest.com\">Eat Real\u003c/a>, and if grilled lamb and veal meatballs weren't exactly typical brunch fare, those who managed to find Patterson's stand, which was tucked away at the far end of the Eat Real Festival's sprawl, next to the manically shouting hucksters of the Toyota sponsors' display, enjoyed some restaurant-quality eats, made with a degree of care and flavor-layering not usually seen in such a setting. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/Mike-the-Bejkr1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/Mike-the-Bejkr1000.jpg\" alt=\" Mike the bejkr Zakowski at Eat Real Festival in Oakland. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" title=\" Mike the bejkr Zakowski at Eat Real Festival in Oakland. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"560\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49391\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Mike [the bejkr] Zakowski at Eat Real Festival in Oakland\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Besides downing some excellent lamb and very tender veal and carrots, tracking down Patterson's booth helped us stumble upon the surprisingly un-swamped stand of Sonoma's \u003ca href=\"http://www.cultsonoma.com/2011/03/a-good-baker-mike-the-bejkr-zakowski-sonoma-valley/\">Mike the Bejkr\u003c/a>, whose artisan, wood-oven loaves are easily the match of Tartine Bakery's line-out-the-door breads. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/eatreal-bejkr1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/eatreal-bejkr1000.jpg\" alt=\"Mike the Bejkr. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" title=\"Mike the Bejkr. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"560\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49390\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mike had four different loaves (including a hefty pain de campagne stenciled with \"real eat\" in flour on the crust) but the real delight was his fresh-from-the-oven Tuscan schiacciata, oval pizza-like flatbreads loaded with local farm veggies, including zucchini, onion, and red peppers. On Friday mornings at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.svcfm.org/\">Sonoma Valley Farmers' Market\u003c/a>, he says, his stall is mobbed from opening to closing; here, the lines were longer for lumpia. Still, this meant no wait for us in snagging a fresh loaf and a hot, melty-cheesed schiacciata, definitely one of the very best things we ate all weekend.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/tuscan-schiacciata500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/tuscan-schiacciata500.jpg\" alt=\"Wood-Fired Schiacciata from Mike the Bejkr at Eat Real Festival. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" title=\"Wood-Fired Schiacciata from Mike the Bejkr at Eat Real Festival. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"500\" height=\"747\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49392\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Wood-Fired Schiacciata from Mike the Bejkr at Eat Real Festival\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then, with baking on our minds, it was over the \u003ca href=\"http://www.eco-sf.org\">Ecology Center SF\u003c/a>'s table, where a fire was burning in the cob-built community oven and Laurie Ellen Pelicano of \u003ca href=\"http://www.tartinebakery.com\">Tartine Bakery\u003c/a> was demonstrating the fine art of dough-rolling, sharing the skills she's developed making some of the dozens and dozens of galettes that Tartine Bakery sells each day. No bowl needed here; instead, Pelicano dusted her chilled butter cubes with flour, made a casual little well in a mound of flour, dropped in the butter and started rolling.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/tartine-eatreal560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/tartine-eatreal560.jpg\" alt=\" Laurie Ellen Pelicano of Tartine Bakery. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\" title=\" Laurie Ellen Pelicano of Tartine Bakery. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49399\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n \u003cem>Laurie Ellen Pelicano of Tartine Bakery. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A few passes, and she had a steam-rollered heap of long, flat butter shards coated in flour. Shaped into another well, she added water (much less than you think), and started, casually again, to fold the flour-and-butter shards over themselves, gently distributing the water while scraping the mixture into a mound. As she mixed, she passed along tips on avoiding the basic mistakes most home bakers make, including:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Don't cut your butter in too finely, especially if you're using a food processor. Stop once the butter's the size of M&Ms; taking the mixture all the way to sand or cornmeal will make a dough that's crumbly, not flaky. Use just enough water to make it hold together; if you tap your squeezed-together handful of dough, it should fall apart. And finally, most importantly, don't overwork the finished dough. That nice, gummy, workable Play-Doh texture? Not what you want. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As soon as a handful would hold together, it was wrapped and put in a cooler to chill. Well-prepared, Pelicano pulled out another already-chilled cube of dough and starting rolling, quickly filling her round of dough with apple slices, a squirt of lemon and a sprinkle of organic sugar, then flipping up the edges of the dough to lap over the apples. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That charming wood oven didn't do a very good job of baking Pelicano's demo galettes, which came out burned on the bottom and slightly underbaked within, but none of the watchers minded. Who would turn down a slice of Tartine-style galette, fresh out of the oven, with no line to wait in? Even better, Pelicano sent interested bakers home with chunks of her leftover dough for their own kitchen experiments. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And then it was time for beer in a jar: chocolatey-dark \u003ca href=\"http://www.pacbrewlab.com/beers/squid-ink/\">Squid Ink\u003c/a>, even darker \u003ca href=\"http://www.moonlightbrewing.com/\">Death and Taxes\u003c/a>, autumn-y, crisp Bahl Hornin Mow Keef from the \u003ca href=\"http://www.avbc.com\">Anderson Valley Brewing Company\u003c/a>. And then over to the main stage, where \u003ca href=\"http://www.facebook.com/pages/Dave-the-Butcher/313452850163\"> Dave the Butcher\u003c/a> and (relative) newbie Daren King were duking it out in the Flying Knives pork-butchering competition, narrated by Belcampo Meats CEO Anya Fernald, with frequent check-ins by the team of judges. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/butchery-contest1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/butchery-contest1000.jpg\" alt=\"Dave the Butcher battles Daren King at 3rd Annual Flying Knives Pork Butchery Contest. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" title=\"Dave the Butcher battles Daren King at 3rd Annual Flying Knives Pork Butchery Contest. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"560\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49405\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Dave the Butcher battles Daren King at 3rd Annual Flying Knives Pork Butchery Contest.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/butchery-contest1000a.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/butchery-contest1000a.jpg\" alt=\"Dave the Butcher hi-fives Daren King at the conclusion of the 3rd Annual Flying Knives Pork Butchery Contest. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" title=\"Dave the Butcher hi-fives Daren King at the conclusion of the 3rd Annual Flying Knives Pork Butchery Contest. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"560\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49413\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Dave the Butcher hi-fives Daren King at the conclusion of the 3rd Annual Flying Knives Pork Butchery Contest.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A whole pig, 45 minutes, and by the end, King won the trophy, and it was time to go home and see what we could make for dinner. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/winner-butchery-contest10001.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/winner-butchery-contest10001.jpg\" alt=\"Daren King was victorious over Dave the Butcher in the Eat Real Festivals 3rd Annual Flying Knives Pork Butchery Contest. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" title=\"Daren King was victorious over Dave the Butcher in the Eat Real Festivals 3rd Annual Flying Knives Pork Butchery Contest. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"560\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49402\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Daren King was victorious over Dave the Butcher in the Eat Real Festival's 3rd Annual Flying Knives Pork Butchery Contest.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Daniel Patterson for five bucks, Tuscan-perfect flatbread, Tartine pastry how-tos, and a couple of flying knives: Day 3 of Eat Real. ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/daniel-patterson1000d.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/daniel-patterson1000d.jpg\" alt=\"Milk-Fed Brunch at Eat Real Festival. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" title=\"Milk-Fed Brunch at Eat Real Festival. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"560\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49365\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Milk-Fed Brunch booth at Eat Real Festival.\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>All Photos:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/wendy-goodfriend/\">Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.coirestaurant.com\">Coi\u003c/a> chef \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/01/07/food-secrets-of-chefrestaurateurwriter-daniel-patterson/\">Daniel Patterson\u003c/a> isn't usually a five-bucks-a-plate kind of guy. \u003ca href=\"http://canerossosf.com/\">Il Cane Rosso\u003c/a> in the Ferry Building, his most casual spot, will make you a $9 egg-salad sandwich; at Jack London Square's \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/01/10/let-them-cook-for-you-haven/\">Haven\u003c/a>, $6 will buy you a side of Chantenay carrots with hay and \u003ca href=\"http://www.vadouvan.com/\">vadouvan\u003c/a>. Toying with the tasting menu at Coi, from abalone with nettle-dandelion salsa verde to frozen lime marshmallow, will set you back a cool 165 clams.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/daniel-patterson1000b.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/daniel-patterson1000b.jpg\" alt=\"Daniel Patterson and crew at 2012 Eat Real Festival in Oakland. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" title=\"Daniel Patterson and crew at 2012 Eat Real Festival in Oakland. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"560\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49363\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Daniel Patterson (center) and crew at Eat Real Festival's Sunday Milk-Fed Brunch\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But here was Patterson on a sunny Sunday morning in Oakland, surrounded by a crew of at least a dozen. Bent double over their folding-table workstations, they draped slices of grilled lamb over mounds of herby three-grain salad (farro, buckwheat, and wheat berries), doused cubes of poached veal in bone broth, and scooped slivers of string beans and fresh shelling beans over slices of fat-ringed pork confit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/danielpatterson-veal10001.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/danielpatterson-veal10001.jpg\" alt=\"Milk Poached Veal from Eat Real Sunday Milk-Fed Brunch. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" title=\"Milk Poached Veal from Eat Real Sunday Milk-Fed Brunch. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"560\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49397\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Milk Poached Veal from Eat Real Sunday Milk-Fed Brunch\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The price for each appetizer-sized plate? Five bucks, and did we mention that all the meat came from young, milk-fed animals (hence the name) raised on the pastures of \u003ca href=\"http://www.belcampoinc.com/inc/#!/company/about\">Belcampo Meats\u003c/a>?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/danielpatterson-lamb-pork500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/danielpatterson-lamb-pork500.jpg\" alt=\"Grilled Lamb and Pig Confit at Eat Real Sunday Milk-fed Brunch. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" title=\"Grilled Lamb and Pig Confit at Eat Real Sunday Milk-fed Brunch. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"500\" height=\"747\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49368\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Grilled Lamb and Pig Confit at Eat Real Sunday Milk-fed Brunch\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This was the Milk-Fed Brunch touted by \u003ca href=\"http://www.eatrealfest.com\">Eat Real\u003c/a>, and if grilled lamb and veal meatballs weren't exactly typical brunch fare, those who managed to find Patterson's stand, which was tucked away at the far end of the Eat Real Festival's sprawl, next to the manically shouting hucksters of the Toyota sponsors' display, enjoyed some restaurant-quality eats, made with a degree of care and flavor-layering not usually seen in such a setting. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/Mike-the-Bejkr1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/Mike-the-Bejkr1000.jpg\" alt=\" Mike the bejkr Zakowski at Eat Real Festival in Oakland. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" title=\" Mike the bejkr Zakowski at Eat Real Festival in Oakland. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"560\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49391\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Mike [the bejkr] Zakowski at Eat Real Festival in Oakland\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Besides downing some excellent lamb and very tender veal and carrots, tracking down Patterson's booth helped us stumble upon the surprisingly un-swamped stand of Sonoma's \u003ca href=\"http://www.cultsonoma.com/2011/03/a-good-baker-mike-the-bejkr-zakowski-sonoma-valley/\">Mike the Bejkr\u003c/a>, whose artisan, wood-oven loaves are easily the match of Tartine Bakery's line-out-the-door breads. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/eatreal-bejkr1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/eatreal-bejkr1000.jpg\" alt=\"Mike the Bejkr. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" title=\"Mike the Bejkr. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"560\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49390\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mike had four different loaves (including a hefty pain de campagne stenciled with \"real eat\" in flour on the crust) but the real delight was his fresh-from-the-oven Tuscan schiacciata, oval pizza-like flatbreads loaded with local farm veggies, including zucchini, onion, and red peppers. On Friday mornings at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.svcfm.org/\">Sonoma Valley Farmers' Market\u003c/a>, he says, his stall is mobbed from opening to closing; here, the lines were longer for lumpia. Still, this meant no wait for us in snagging a fresh loaf and a hot, melty-cheesed schiacciata, definitely one of the very best things we ate all weekend.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/tuscan-schiacciata500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/tuscan-schiacciata500.jpg\" alt=\"Wood-Fired Schiacciata from Mike the Bejkr at Eat Real Festival. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" title=\"Wood-Fired Schiacciata from Mike the Bejkr at Eat Real Festival. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"500\" height=\"747\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49392\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Wood-Fired Schiacciata from Mike the Bejkr at Eat Real Festival\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then, with baking on our minds, it was over the \u003ca href=\"http://www.eco-sf.org\">Ecology Center SF\u003c/a>'s table, where a fire was burning in the cob-built community oven and Laurie Ellen Pelicano of \u003ca href=\"http://www.tartinebakery.com\">Tartine Bakery\u003c/a> was demonstrating the fine art of dough-rolling, sharing the skills she's developed making some of the dozens and dozens of galettes that Tartine Bakery sells each day. No bowl needed here; instead, Pelicano dusted her chilled butter cubes with flour, made a casual little well in a mound of flour, dropped in the butter and started rolling.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/tartine-eatreal560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/tartine-eatreal560.jpg\" alt=\" Laurie Ellen Pelicano of Tartine Bakery. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\" title=\" Laurie Ellen Pelicano of Tartine Bakery. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49399\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n \u003cem>Laurie Ellen Pelicano of Tartine Bakery. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A few passes, and she had a steam-rollered heap of long, flat butter shards coated in flour. Shaped into another well, she added water (much less than you think), and started, casually again, to fold the flour-and-butter shards over themselves, gently distributing the water while scraping the mixture into a mound. As she mixed, she passed along tips on avoiding the basic mistakes most home bakers make, including:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Don't cut your butter in too finely, especially if you're using a food processor. Stop once the butter's the size of M&Ms; taking the mixture all the way to sand or cornmeal will make a dough that's crumbly, not flaky. Use just enough water to make it hold together; if you tap your squeezed-together handful of dough, it should fall apart. And finally, most importantly, don't overwork the finished dough. That nice, gummy, workable Play-Doh texture? Not what you want. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As soon as a handful would hold together, it was wrapped and put in a cooler to chill. Well-prepared, Pelicano pulled out another already-chilled cube of dough and starting rolling, quickly filling her round of dough with apple slices, a squirt of lemon and a sprinkle of organic sugar, then flipping up the edges of the dough to lap over the apples. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That charming wood oven didn't do a very good job of baking Pelicano's demo galettes, which came out burned on the bottom and slightly underbaked within, but none of the watchers minded. Who would turn down a slice of Tartine-style galette, fresh out of the oven, with no line to wait in? Even better, Pelicano sent interested bakers home with chunks of her leftover dough for their own kitchen experiments. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And then it was time for beer in a jar: chocolatey-dark \u003ca href=\"http://www.pacbrewlab.com/beers/squid-ink/\">Squid Ink\u003c/a>, even darker \u003ca href=\"http://www.moonlightbrewing.com/\">Death and Taxes\u003c/a>, autumn-y, crisp Bahl Hornin Mow Keef from the \u003ca href=\"http://www.avbc.com\">Anderson Valley Brewing Company\u003c/a>. And then over to the main stage, where \u003ca href=\"http://www.facebook.com/pages/Dave-the-Butcher/313452850163\"> Dave the Butcher\u003c/a> and (relative) newbie Daren King were duking it out in the Flying Knives pork-butchering competition, narrated by Belcampo Meats CEO Anya Fernald, with frequent check-ins by the team of judges. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/butchery-contest1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/butchery-contest1000.jpg\" alt=\"Dave the Butcher battles Daren King at 3rd Annual Flying Knives Pork Butchery Contest. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" title=\"Dave the Butcher battles Daren King at 3rd Annual Flying Knives Pork Butchery Contest. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"560\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49405\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Dave the Butcher battles Daren King at 3rd Annual Flying Knives Pork Butchery Contest.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/butchery-contest1000a.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/butchery-contest1000a.jpg\" alt=\"Dave the Butcher hi-fives Daren King at the conclusion of the 3rd Annual Flying Knives Pork Butchery Contest. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" title=\"Dave the Butcher hi-fives Daren King at the conclusion of the 3rd Annual Flying Knives Pork Butchery Contest. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"560\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49413\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Dave the Butcher hi-fives Daren King at the conclusion of the 3rd Annual Flying Knives Pork Butchery Contest.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A whole pig, 45 minutes, and by the end, King won the trophy, and it was time to go home and see what we could make for dinner. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/winner-butchery-contest10001.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/winner-butchery-contest10001.jpg\" alt=\"Daren King was victorious over Dave the Butcher in the Eat Real Festivals 3rd Annual Flying Knives Pork Butchery Contest. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" title=\"Daren King was victorious over Dave the Butcher in the Eat Real Festivals 3rd Annual Flying Knives Pork Butchery Contest. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"560\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49402\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Daren King was victorious over Dave the Butcher in the Eat Real Festival's 3rd Annual Flying Knives Pork Butchery Contest.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Eat Real Festival Day 1 + Meatopia",
"title": "Eat Real Festival Day 1 + Meatopia",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/bacon-fire1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/bacon-fire560.jpg\" alt=\"Bacon on fire at Meatopia - Big Bob Gibson BBQ BLTs. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" title=\"Bacon on fire at Meatopia - Big Bob Gibson BBQ BLTs. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"560\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49218\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Flaming bacon for BLTs from Big Bob Gibson BBQ at Meatopia\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>All Photos: \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/wendy-goodfriend/\">Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another weekend, another all-day outdoor food festival. Thanks perhaps to the mellow, lovely \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/08/20/night-market-sf-street-food-festival/\">Night Market\u003c/a> last month, the evening previews for these events are now my favorites: smaller crowds, less garbage, less glare, with shorter lines and beautiful sunset-streaked skies overhead. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At Oakland's first \u003ca href=\"http://www.eatrealfest.com\">Eat Real Festival\u003c/a>, in 2009, the Friday night preview was a \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2009/08/30/eat-real-festival/\">beer and ice cream tasting\u003c/a>, featuring nothing but, you guessed it, beer and ice cream. Now in its fourth year, the festival's added a bunch of food trucks and stalls to its Friday afternoon-to-evening beginning, plus beer, wine, and cocktail bars, live music, and for the first time this year, a West Coast version of New York City's party of carnivores, \u003ca href=\"http://eatrealfest2012meatopia.eventbrite.com/\">Meatopia\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/meatopia-haybales1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/meatopia-haybales560.jpg\" alt=\"Eat Real Festival in Oakland- Meatopia. Photo by Wendy Goodfriend\" title=\"Eat Real Festival in Oakland- Meatopia. Photo by Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"560\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49199\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A $50 ticket got you into a fenced-off section of parking lot, where a DJ blasted overly loud vintage soul and Latin beats, and where the smell of wood smoke, charcoal, and charring meat hung heavy in the air over the hay-bale seating and shady umbrellas festooned with Eat Real pennants. 10 booths, staffed by chefs from around the country, offered small meatcentric tasting plates; a bar handed out Eat Real-branded Mason jars of Anchor Steam and Laguinitas on tap. (Wine drinkers got a choice of red or white in a plastic cup, unless, like us, you begged for a jar.) \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Josh Ozersky, a man who's no stranger to \u003ca href=\"http://ozersky.tv/2012/09/oh-come-with-me-to-meatopia/\">self-promotion and buzz generating\u003c/a>, launched the original \u003ca href=\"http://www.meatopia.org\">Meatopia\u003c/a> on New York City's Randall Island. But somehow, transplanted to the West Coast, the event--at least Friday night's eating part-- was just, well, meatiocre. (Several Meatopia-connected butchery competitions and demos were planned for Saturday and Sunday.) There were a few tasty treats, Pizzaiolo's meatballs and Jim 'N Nick's pork and grits among them, but not much was really adventurous or, in fact, much different than what was on offer a la carte at the trucks and booths outside. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/bocanova1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/bocanova560.jpg\" alt=\"Bocanova pork with tomatillo sauce. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" title=\"Bocanova pork with tomatillo sauce. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"560\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49234\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Using white chocolate to mellow the tang of tomatillos was inventive, sure, but did \u003ca href=\"http://bocanova.com/\">Bocanova\u003c/a>'s Chartreuse-green sauce really have much to say to the juicy, achiote-rubbed pork loin it was blanketing? No, although the meat was tender and juicy enough. A well-balanced peach chutney couldn't save an underdone, charcoal-tasting chicken leg from locavore restaurant \u003ca href=\"http://www.saltscure.com\">Salt's Cure\u003c/a> in West Hollywood. Were I a Great Dane, I'd have been thrilled by the foot-long beef ribs served up by \u003ca href=\"http://www.greatbbq.com\">Great American Barbecue\u003c/a> from Alameda; alas, the smaller, boneless chunk of meat I tried was too greasily pocketed with fat to chew. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Favorites? The supple white grits and slow-cooked pork with a squirt of hot sauce from \u003ca href=\"http://www.jimnnicks.com\">Jim 'N Nick’s Bar-B-Q\u003c/a>, the Southern barbecue chain whose massive rig was parked outside in the main area, boasting a winged pig with the slogan “First we send him to heaven. Then we send you there.” Having tasted what they do to those pigs, I can confirm their truth in advertising. Still, the same fork-tender pig was also on the menu, this time in a sandwich, at their truck outside, making Meatopia moot.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/nicks-bbq1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/nicks-bbq560.jpg\" alt=\"Jim N Nicks BBQ truck. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" title=\"Jim N Nicks BBQ truck. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"560\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49217\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/jimnicks-bbq1000a.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/jimnicks-bbq560a.jpg\" alt=\"Jim N Nicks BBQ Pork and Grits. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" title=\"Jim N Nicks BBQ Pork and Grits. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"560\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49229\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And yes, the pork meatballs from \u003ca href=\"http://www.pizzaiolooakland.com/\">Pizzaiolo\u003c/a>, served with a smile by owner Charlie Hallowell, will always be better than mine, yours, and everyone we know's. Hallowell starts with organic, humanely raised pork from Iowa’s \u003ca href=\"http://www.beckerlaneorganic.com/\">Becker Lane Organic Farm\u003c/a>, which Hallowell calls \"the best pork around,\" then adds bread crumbs, eggs, milk, pine nuts, greens, and capers. After shaping, the meatballs are deep-fried, braised in chicken stock, napped in a thick crushed-tomato sauce, doused with olive oil and sprinkled with Parmesan. They fall apart under the fork, gently, and the whole bite—meat, tomato sauce, cheese, oil—cries out for pasta or a swipe of Italian bread. Good as they are, eating them plain like this turns out to be a very good argument for driving a few miles over to Temescal, sitting down at the restaurant, and ordering them off the menu, so you can eat them the way they were meant to be served. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/CharlieHallowell-Pizzaiolo400.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/CharlieHallowell-Pizzaiolo400.jpg\" alt=\"Charlie Hallowell of Pizzaiolo serving meatballs at Eat Real Fest Me\" title=\"Charlie Hallowell of Pizzaiolo serving meatballs at Eat Real Fest Meatopia. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"400\" height=\"598\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49191\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/meatball-pizziaolo8001.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/meatball-pizziaolo8001.jpg\" alt=\"Pizzaiolo meatball. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" title=\"Pizzaiolo meatball. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"560\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49223\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is the puzzlement of local restaurants and food businesses serving up their favorite menu items at these festivals: why wait and wait in line for a cardboard bowl of \u003ca href=\"http://homeroom510.com/menu/#mac+cheese\">Homeroom’s Gilroy garlic mac and cheese\u003c/a>, for example, when you can just go to the restaurant, sit down, and eat the same thing in comfort for a similar price? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Or take the \u003ca href=\"http://brittany-crepesandgalettes.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=6&Itemid=5\">Brittany Crepes and Galettes\u003c/a> stand: who doesn’t like a Nutella crepe hot out of the pan? But fans can find their crepes practically any day of the week at numerous farmers’ markets all around the Bay Area. A lot of the popular food trucks—El Porteno empanadas, Chaac Mool, 4505 Meats—are now as ubiquitous as they are delicious. A good thing, of course, to see small businesses like these become so successful, but one that's making every food-truck event and festival seem more and more the same. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/crepe1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/crepe560.jpg\" alt=\"Crepe. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" title=\"Crepe. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"560\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49204\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Still, the pink-streaked sky was gorgeous, the harborside setting with sailboats gliding by made a relaxing change from urban clamor, and even the Oakland PD was in a good mood, keeping the peace with a little \u003ca href=\"http://www.folsomstreetevents.org/\">Folsom Street Fair\u003c/a>-style handcuffing between two dueling barbecue workers. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/nicks-bbq-handcuffs1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/nicks-bbq-handcuffs560.jpg\" alt=\"Nicks Bar-B-Q handcuff scene. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" title=\"Nicks Bar-B-Q handcuff scene. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"560\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49210\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And the flaming maw of the wood-fired cob oven, built on site by volunteers and members of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.eco-sf.org/\">Ecology Center SF\u003c/a>, offered a flickering promise of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.eatrealfest.com/event/Oakland/California/2012/make\">hands-on DIY workshops\u003c/a> to follow, the real heart and soul of the festival. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/wood-fire-oven560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/wood-fire-oven560.jpg\" alt=\"Wood-fired oven by SF Ecology Center. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" title=\"Wood-fired oven by SF Ecology Center. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"560\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49213\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "The 4th annual Eat Real Festival kicks off with an evening of food trucks, music, meat and more. But was the much-hyped Meatopia just meatiocre? ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/bacon-fire1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/bacon-fire560.jpg\" alt=\"Bacon on fire at Meatopia - Big Bob Gibson BBQ BLTs. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" title=\"Bacon on fire at Meatopia - Big Bob Gibson BBQ BLTs. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"560\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49218\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Flaming bacon for BLTs from Big Bob Gibson BBQ at Meatopia\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>All Photos: \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/wendy-goodfriend/\">Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another weekend, another all-day outdoor food festival. Thanks perhaps to the mellow, lovely \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/08/20/night-market-sf-street-food-festival/\">Night Market\u003c/a> last month, the evening previews for these events are now my favorites: smaller crowds, less garbage, less glare, with shorter lines and beautiful sunset-streaked skies overhead. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At Oakland's first \u003ca href=\"http://www.eatrealfest.com\">Eat Real Festival\u003c/a>, in 2009, the Friday night preview was a \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2009/08/30/eat-real-festival/\">beer and ice cream tasting\u003c/a>, featuring nothing but, you guessed it, beer and ice cream. Now in its fourth year, the festival's added a bunch of food trucks and stalls to its Friday afternoon-to-evening beginning, plus beer, wine, and cocktail bars, live music, and for the first time this year, a West Coast version of New York City's party of carnivores, \u003ca href=\"http://eatrealfest2012meatopia.eventbrite.com/\">Meatopia\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/meatopia-haybales1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/meatopia-haybales560.jpg\" alt=\"Eat Real Festival in Oakland- Meatopia. Photo by Wendy Goodfriend\" title=\"Eat Real Festival in Oakland- Meatopia. Photo by Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"560\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49199\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A $50 ticket got you into a fenced-off section of parking lot, where a DJ blasted overly loud vintage soul and Latin beats, and where the smell of wood smoke, charcoal, and charring meat hung heavy in the air over the hay-bale seating and shady umbrellas festooned with Eat Real pennants. 10 booths, staffed by chefs from around the country, offered small meatcentric tasting plates; a bar handed out Eat Real-branded Mason jars of Anchor Steam and Laguinitas on tap. (Wine drinkers got a choice of red or white in a plastic cup, unless, like us, you begged for a jar.) \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Josh Ozersky, a man who's no stranger to \u003ca href=\"http://ozersky.tv/2012/09/oh-come-with-me-to-meatopia/\">self-promotion and buzz generating\u003c/a>, launched the original \u003ca href=\"http://www.meatopia.org\">Meatopia\u003c/a> on New York City's Randall Island. But somehow, transplanted to the West Coast, the event--at least Friday night's eating part-- was just, well, meatiocre. (Several Meatopia-connected butchery competitions and demos were planned for Saturday and Sunday.) There were a few tasty treats, Pizzaiolo's meatballs and Jim 'N Nick's pork and grits among them, but not much was really adventurous or, in fact, much different than what was on offer a la carte at the trucks and booths outside. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/bocanova1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/bocanova560.jpg\" alt=\"Bocanova pork with tomatillo sauce. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" title=\"Bocanova pork with tomatillo sauce. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"560\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49234\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Using white chocolate to mellow the tang of tomatillos was inventive, sure, but did \u003ca href=\"http://bocanova.com/\">Bocanova\u003c/a>'s Chartreuse-green sauce really have much to say to the juicy, achiote-rubbed pork loin it was blanketing? No, although the meat was tender and juicy enough. A well-balanced peach chutney couldn't save an underdone, charcoal-tasting chicken leg from locavore restaurant \u003ca href=\"http://www.saltscure.com\">Salt's Cure\u003c/a> in West Hollywood. Were I a Great Dane, I'd have been thrilled by the foot-long beef ribs served up by \u003ca href=\"http://www.greatbbq.com\">Great American Barbecue\u003c/a> from Alameda; alas, the smaller, boneless chunk of meat I tried was too greasily pocketed with fat to chew. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Favorites? The supple white grits and slow-cooked pork with a squirt of hot sauce from \u003ca href=\"http://www.jimnnicks.com\">Jim 'N Nick’s Bar-B-Q\u003c/a>, the Southern barbecue chain whose massive rig was parked outside in the main area, boasting a winged pig with the slogan “First we send him to heaven. Then we send you there.” Having tasted what they do to those pigs, I can confirm their truth in advertising. Still, the same fork-tender pig was also on the menu, this time in a sandwich, at their truck outside, making Meatopia moot.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/nicks-bbq1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/nicks-bbq560.jpg\" alt=\"Jim N Nicks BBQ truck. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" title=\"Jim N Nicks BBQ truck. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"560\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49217\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/jimnicks-bbq1000a.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/jimnicks-bbq560a.jpg\" alt=\"Jim N Nicks BBQ Pork and Grits. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" title=\"Jim N Nicks BBQ Pork and Grits. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"560\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49229\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And yes, the pork meatballs from \u003ca href=\"http://www.pizzaiolooakland.com/\">Pizzaiolo\u003c/a>, served with a smile by owner Charlie Hallowell, will always be better than mine, yours, and everyone we know's. Hallowell starts with organic, humanely raised pork from Iowa’s \u003ca href=\"http://www.beckerlaneorganic.com/\">Becker Lane Organic Farm\u003c/a>, which Hallowell calls \"the best pork around,\" then adds bread crumbs, eggs, milk, pine nuts, greens, and capers. After shaping, the meatballs are deep-fried, braised in chicken stock, napped in a thick crushed-tomato sauce, doused with olive oil and sprinkled with Parmesan. They fall apart under the fork, gently, and the whole bite—meat, tomato sauce, cheese, oil—cries out for pasta or a swipe of Italian bread. Good as they are, eating them plain like this turns out to be a very good argument for driving a few miles over to Temescal, sitting down at the restaurant, and ordering them off the menu, so you can eat them the way they were meant to be served. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/CharlieHallowell-Pizzaiolo400.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/CharlieHallowell-Pizzaiolo400.jpg\" alt=\"Charlie Hallowell of Pizzaiolo serving meatballs at Eat Real Fest Me\" title=\"Charlie Hallowell of Pizzaiolo serving meatballs at Eat Real Fest Meatopia. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"400\" height=\"598\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49191\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/meatball-pizziaolo8001.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/meatball-pizziaolo8001.jpg\" alt=\"Pizzaiolo meatball. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" title=\"Pizzaiolo meatball. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"560\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49223\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is the puzzlement of local restaurants and food businesses serving up their favorite menu items at these festivals: why wait and wait in line for a cardboard bowl of \u003ca href=\"http://homeroom510.com/menu/#mac+cheese\">Homeroom’s Gilroy garlic mac and cheese\u003c/a>, for example, when you can just go to the restaurant, sit down, and eat the same thing in comfort for a similar price? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Or take the \u003ca href=\"http://brittany-crepesandgalettes.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=6&Itemid=5\">Brittany Crepes and Galettes\u003c/a> stand: who doesn’t like a Nutella crepe hot out of the pan? But fans can find their crepes practically any day of the week at numerous farmers’ markets all around the Bay Area. A lot of the popular food trucks—El Porteno empanadas, Chaac Mool, 4505 Meats—are now as ubiquitous as they are delicious. A good thing, of course, to see small businesses like these become so successful, but one that's making every food-truck event and festival seem more and more the same. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/crepe1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/crepe560.jpg\" alt=\"Crepe. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" title=\"Crepe. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"560\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49204\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Still, the pink-streaked sky was gorgeous, the harborside setting with sailboats gliding by made a relaxing change from urban clamor, and even the Oakland PD was in a good mood, keeping the peace with a little \u003ca href=\"http://www.folsomstreetevents.org/\">Folsom Street Fair\u003c/a>-style handcuffing between two dueling barbecue workers. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/nicks-bbq-handcuffs1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/nicks-bbq-handcuffs560.jpg\" alt=\"Nicks Bar-B-Q handcuff scene. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" title=\"Nicks Bar-B-Q handcuff scene. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"560\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49210\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And the flaming maw of the wood-fired cob oven, built on site by volunteers and members of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.eco-sf.org/\">Ecology Center SF\u003c/a>, offered a flickering promise of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.eatrealfest.com/event/Oakland/California/2012/make\">hands-on DIY workshops\u003c/a> to follow, the real heart and soul of the festival. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/wood-fire-oven560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/wood-fire-oven560.jpg\" alt=\"Wood-fired oven by SF Ecology Center. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" title=\"Wood-fired oven by SF Ecology Center. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"560\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49213\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"id": "baycurious",
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"tagline": "Exploring the Bay Area, one question at a time",
"info": "KQED’s new podcast, Bay Curious, gets to the bottom of the mysteries — both profound and peculiar — that give the Bay Area its unique identity. And we’ll do it with your help! You ask the questions. You decide what Bay Curious investigates. And you join us on the journey to find the answers.",
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},
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},
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"info": "KQED’s statewide radio news program providing daily coverage of issues, trends and public policy decisions.",
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"order": 8
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"tagline": "Your state, your stories",
"info": "Every week, The California Report Magazine takes you on a road trip for the ears: to visit the places and meet the people who make California unique. The in-depth storytelling podcast from the California Report.",
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"source": "City Arts & Lectures"
},
"link": "https://www.cityarts.net",
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"order": 1
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"title": "Code Switch / Life Kit",
"info": "\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em>, which listeners will hear in the first part of the hour, has fearless and much-needed conversations about race. Hosted by journalists of color, the show tackles the subject of race head-on, exploring how it impacts every part of society — from politics and pop culture to history, sports and more.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em>, which will be in the second part of the hour, guides you through spaces and feelings no one prepares you for — from finances to mental health, from workplace microaggressions to imposter syndrome, from relationships to parenting. The show features experts with real world experience and shares their knowledge. Because everyone needs a little help being human.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/510312/codeswitch\">\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/lifekit\">\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />",
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"id": "commonwealth-club",
"title": "Commonwealth Club of California Podcast",
"info": "The Commonwealth Club of California is the nation's oldest and largest public affairs forum. As a non-partisan forum, The Club brings to the public airwaves diverse viewpoints on important topics. The Club's weekly radio broadcast - the oldest in the U.S., dating back to 1924 - is carried across the nation on public radio stations and is now podcasting. Our website archive features audio of our recent programs, as well as selected speeches from our long and distinguished history. This podcast feed is usually updated twice a week and is always un-edited.",
"airtime": "THU 10pm, FRI 1am",
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"source": "Commonwealth Club of California"
},
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"title": "Forum",
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"info": "KQED’s live call-in program discussing local, state, national and international issues, as well as in-depth interviews.",
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"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Forum-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
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"order": 9
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"meta": {
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"source": "WNYC"
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"id": "fresh-air",
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"info": "A live production of NPR and WBUR Boston, in collaboration with stations across the country, Here & Now reflects the fluid world of news as it's happening in the middle of the day, with timely, in-depth news, interviews and conversation. Hosted by Robin Young, Jeremy Hobson and Tonya Mosley.",
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"hidden-brain": {
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"info": "Shankar Vedantam uses science and storytelling to reveal the unconscious patterns that drive human behavior, shape our choices and direct our relationships.",
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"airtime": "SUN 7pm-8pm",
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"source": "NPR"
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"how-i-built-this": {
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"info": "Guy Raz dives into the stories behind some of the world's best known companies. How I Built This weaves a narrative journey about innovators, entrepreneurs and idealists—and the movements they built.",
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"airtime": "SUN 7:30pm-8pm",
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"hyphenacion": {
"id": "hyphenacion",
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"tagline": "Where conversation and cultura meet",
"info": "What kind of no sabo word is Hyphenación? For us, it’s about living within a hyphenation. Like being a third-gen Mexican-American from the Texas border now living that Bay Area Chicano life. Like Xorje! Each week we bring together a couple of hyphenated Latinos to talk all about personal life choices: family, careers, relationships, belonging … everything is on the table. ",
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"jerrybrown": {
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"title": "The Political Mind of Jerry Brown",
"tagline": "Lessons from a lifetime in politics",
"info": "The Political Mind of Jerry Brown brings listeners the wisdom of the former Governor, Mayor, and presidential candidate. Scott Shafer interviewed Brown for more than 40 hours, covering the former governor's life and half-century in the political game – and Brown has some lessons he'd like to share. ",
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"order": 18
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},
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"id": "latino-usa",
"title": "Latino USA",
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"info": "Latino USA, the radio journal of news and culture, is the only national, English-language radio program produced from a Latino perspective.",
"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/latinoUsa.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "http://latinousa.org/",
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},
"link": "/radio/program/latino-usa",
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=79681317&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory",
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"rss": "https://feeds.npr.org/510016/podcast.xml"
}
},
"marketplace": {
"id": "marketplace",
"title": "Marketplace",
"info": "Our flagship program, helmed by Kai Ryssdal, examines what the day in money delivered, through stories, conversations, newsworthy numbers and more. Updated Monday through Friday at about 3:30 p.m. PT.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 4pm-4:30pm, MON-WED 6:30pm-7pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Marketplace-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.marketplace.org/",
"meta": {
"site": "news",
"source": "American Public Media"
},
"link": "/radio/program/marketplace",
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"rss": "https://feeds.publicradio.org/public_feeds/marketplace-pm/rss/rss"
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},
"masters-of-scale": {
"id": "masters-of-scale",
"title": "Masters of Scale",
"info": "Masters of Scale is an original podcast in which LinkedIn co-founder and Greylock Partner Reid Hoffman sets out to describe and prove theories that explain how great entrepreneurs take their companies from zero to a gazillion in ingenious fashion.",
"airtime": "Every other Wednesday June 12 through October 16 at 8pm (repeats Thursdays at 2am)",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "https://mastersofscale.com/",
"meta": {
"site": "radio",
"source": "WaitWhat"
},
"link": "/radio/program/masters-of-scale",
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"rss": "https://rss.art19.com/masters-of-scale"
}
},
"mindshift": {
"id": "mindshift",
"title": "MindShift",
"tagline": "A podcast about the future of learning and how we raise our kids",
"info": "The MindShift podcast explores the innovations in education that are shaping how kids learn. Hosts Ki Sung and Katrina Schwartz introduce listeners to educators, researchers, parents and students who are developing effective ways to improve how kids learn. We cover topics like how fed-up administrators are developing surprising tactics to deal with classroom disruptions; how listening to podcasts are helping kids develop reading skills; the consequences of overparenting; and why interdisciplinary learning can engage students on all ends of the traditional achievement spectrum. This podcast is part of the MindShift education site, a division of KQED News. KQED is an NPR/PBS member station based in San Francisco. You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Mindshift-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
"imageAlt": "KQED MindShift: How We Will Learn",
"officialWebsiteLink": "/mindshift/",
"meta": {
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"source": "kqed",
"order": 12
},
"link": "/podcasts/mindshift",
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