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"disqusTitle": "Learn How To Butcher, Smoke and Can a Whole Fish with Chef Neil Davidson",
"title": "Learn How To Butcher, Smoke and Can a Whole Fish with Chef Neil Davidson",
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"content": "\u003cp>Admit it: When faced with fish, you buy fillets. But why? Is it the face? The fins? Fear of scales? Fear of bones? Well, get over it. Now that our \u003ca href=\"http://www.dfg.ca.gov/marine/oceansalmon.asp\">local sport and commercial salmon fishing season is open\u003c/a>, you might very well find yourself tempted--or treated--to a whole fish, and when that happens, it's handy to know how to handle it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_63810\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/salmon600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/salmon600.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Neil Davidson filleting a whole salmon. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend \" width=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-63810\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Neil Davidson filleting a whole salmon. Photo: \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/wendy-goodfriend/\">Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/a>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>It's also much more economical, and sustainable, to feed yourself nose-to-fin on a whole wild fish. \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/mariafinn/\">Maria Finn\u003c/a>, Bay Area Bites writer, former commercial salmon fisherwoman, and author of \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/10/26/the-whole-fish-how-adventurous-eating-of-seafood-can-make-you-healthier-sexier-and-help-save-the-ocean/\">The Whole Fish: How Adventurous Eating of Seafood Can Make You Healthier, Sexier, and Help Save the Ocean\u003c/a> recently teamed up with chef Neil Davidson of \u003ca href=\"http://www.missiongastroclub.org/\">Mission Gastroclub\u003c/a> and the \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/WhipOutFoodTruck\">Whip Out\u003c/a> food truck to teach a hands-on class in scaling, filleting, preserving, and smoking whole fish at home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_63806\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/fishclass1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/fishclass1000.jpg\" alt=\"Maria Finn and Neil Davidson teaching Whole Fish Fabrication and Preservation Class. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"669\" class=\"size-full wp-image-63806\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Maria Finn and Neil Davidson teaching Whole Fish Fabrication and Preservation Class. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The class, presented by the \u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org\">Center for Urban Education about Sustainable Agriculture (CUESA)\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.urbankitchensf.org\">Urban Kitchen SF\u003c/a>, was held from 5:30 to 7:30pm last Thursday in CUESA's outdoor kitchen, under the porticos of the Ferry Building. It's not the most comfortable place for a cooking class; it's outside, after all, and instructions can be hard to hear over traffic noise as cars, trucks, and motorcycles screech and toot their way along The Embarcadero just yards away. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Still, it's hard not to be entranced by the massive, silvery whole salmon laid out in front of Davidson. This is the creme de la creme of Pacific Coast salmon: a wild king, fresh from the ocean just north of Sonoma County. Of course, as Finn points out, tasty, healthful dishes can be made from all five of our local salmon types, including pink, chum, silver, and sockeye. But for superlative texture and flavor, the king is king. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_63849\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/wholesalmon600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/wholesalmon600.jpg\" alt=\"Whole King Salmon. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-63849\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Whole King Salmon. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Davidson goes over the fish, telling us what to look for when choosing a fish: eyes that look clear and full, still sitting high in the socket, not sunken into the head; no cuts or slashes on the body; fins that are still in good shape. This fish has already been gutted, so there's just a neat cavity where the guts would have been. Picking up a thin, flexible, slightly curved filleting knife, Davidson quickly scrapes off the scales using the back (dull side) of the knife. This is a job to do outside, if possible, since the small, mica-like scales will pop off and fly everywhere.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_63813\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/scalingsalmon600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/scalingsalmon600.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Neil Davidson removing scales from a whole salmon. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend \" width=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-63813\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Neil Davidson removing scales from a whole salmon. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Once the fish is scaled, Davidson crunches his knife through the spine just behind the head, then slides it across the broad flanks of the fish along the ribs and spine all way to the tail, effortlessly freeing the whole long stretch of flesh from the bones. It looks easy only because he's been doing it professionally for years, from cooking school in Portland, OR to stints at The French Laundry and Ad Hoc. But, as he points out, the knife should be doing most of the work for you; what he's doing is mainly guiding it over the bones, following the structure of the fish. Angle the knife slightly downward, so that it won't cut up and into the flesh.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_63853\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/filleting-salmon600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/filleting-salmon600.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Neil Davidson demonstrates filleting the king salmon. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-63853\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Neil Davidson demonstrates filleting the king salmon. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Filleting whole salmon side by Chef Neil Davidson.\u003c/strong> \u003cem>Video by Stephanie Rosenbaum\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n[youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ef3g89DBBc0]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Along the bottom of each fillet is the belly meat, thickly streaked with white fat. As Finn points out, it's delicious (and full of beneficial omega-3 fats) but less meaty, which means it's often sliced off and discarded by fishmongers. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/fishhalffilleted600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/fishhalffilleted600-190x190.jpg\" alt=\"Salmon with one side filleted. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-63862\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/filleting-salmon600a.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/filleting-salmon600a-190x190.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Neil Davidson fillets other side of salmon. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-63861\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/displayfillets600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/displayfillets600-190x190.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Neil Davidson displays cut fillet of salmon. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-63863\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once he's freed up both sides, he points out the other delicious bits still left: the thick ring of flesh just behind the head, known as the collar, that makes for a delicious roast, since it's so fatty; the cheeks; the flesh you can scrape from the bones with the edge of a spoon and use for salmon patties or croquettes. The head, boiled with ginger and seaweed, makes a good broth that can be mixed with miso for a Japanese-styled soup. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_63859\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/scrapingsalmonspoon600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/scrapingsalmonspoon600.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Neil Davidson uses a spoon to scrape remains of salmon from bones to use for fish patties. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-63859\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Neil Davidson uses a spoon to scrape remains of salmon from bones to use for fish patties. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>With needle-nose pliers (or \u003ca href=\"http://www.hidatool.com/bone-tweezers-western-style\">bone tweezers\u003c/a>), Davidson quickly yanks out the pin bones studding the fillet. For smoking, he'd leave the bones in, to help preserve the shape of the fish, but for grilling or poaching, fewer bones are preferable. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_63867\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/removingbones1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/removingbones1000.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Neil Davidson uses needle-nose pliers to remove pin bones from salmon. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"669\" class=\"size-full wp-image-63867\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Neil Davidson uses needle-nose pliers to remove pin bones from salmon. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Today, we're putting the fillets through a quick cure, to pull out some of the liquid before poaching. If you've ever made bacon, the process will be familiar. The cure is equal parts (by weight) of salt and sugar. Finn notes that some native tribes in Alaska add pine tips to their cures; this being Mediterranean-minded San Francisco, Davidson adds some shreds of preserved Meyer lemon rind to his. Davidson skins the fillet before curing; without the skin, the fish will cure faster. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/curingfish1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/curingfish1000-290x194.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Neil Davidson demonstrates how to cure the fish. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"290\" height=\"194\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-63873\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/curingfish1000a.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/curingfish1000a-290x194.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Neil Davidson demonstrates how to cure the fish. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"290\" height=\"194\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-63874\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/skinning600a.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/skinning600a-190x190.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Neil Davidson demonstrates how to skin the fish. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-63870\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/skinning600b.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/skinning600b-190x190.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Neil Davidson demonstrates how to skin the fish. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-63871\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/skinning600c.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/skinning600c-190x190.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Neil Davidson demonstrates how to skin the fish. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-63872\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To skin it, he lays the side of fish skin side down, close to the edge of the counter. He cuts straight down through the flesh (but not through the skin) about half an inch from the tail, making a little tab of skin to hold onto with the hand that's not holding the knife. Holding one end of skin taut as you cut helps steady the fish and make it easier to get all the way down to that sweet spot right between the flesh and skin. Then, he slides the knife parallel to the counter, cutting the flesh free from the skin in one steady motion.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Skinning a Whole Side of Salmon.\u003c/strong> \u003cem>Video by Stephanie Rosenbaum\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n[youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UBMg2J4BmhQ]\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003ch3>A few tips:\u003c/h3>\n\u003cli>Take as few strokes with the knife as you can, and make sure they're long\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Glide your knife through, don't saw up and down\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Listen through your fingers and pay attention to what your knife is telling you\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>In my experience, if it feels like you're doing it perfectly, stop and take a look: You're probably missing the skin entirely and are just blithely sliding your knife between the fish and the counter\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>If you're planning to smoke your fish, leave the skin on, to protect the fish and make it easier to move in one piece\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>We get to practice our filleting and skinning, not on salmon, but on smaller, less expensive (and more approachable) black cod, each roughly the size of a trout. Finn assures us that black cod is also a great candidate for curing, poaching, and smoking. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/blackcod-demo1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/blackcod-demo1000-190x190.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Neil Davidson demonstrates filleting black cod. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-63885\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/classmembersfilleting1000a.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/classmembersfilleting1000a-190x190.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Neil Davidson helps students butchering whole black cod. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-63882\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/classmembersfilleting1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/classmembersfilleting1000-190x190.jpg\" alt=\"Students in class working on butchering whole black cod. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-63883\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To cure, Davidson lines a sheet pan with plastic wrap or aluminum foil, spreads out a thick layer of the salt/sugar mixture, tops it with the skinned fillet, then covers the fish with the rest of the mixture. Then goes into the fridge, ideally for one hour for every inch of thickness. If you're planning to smoke your fish, once the fish is cured, rinse off the salt/sugar mixture, pat the fish dry, and return the fish to rest in the fridge, uncovered, overnight. The surface will dry out and feel slightly tacky; the fish will take the smoke best like this. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On the stove, Davidson has been heating up a wide saucepan half-filled with olive oil, bringing it up to a temperature between 160-180ºF. Once the fish is cured, it's rinsed off, patted dry, then slipped into the warm oil to poach. In five minutes, the fish has paled and gone from translucent to opaque. Once it flakes easily, it's done. Scooped out of the oil, it's packed firmly into clean canning jars, to just below the lowest \"ridge\" of the screw-top indentations. The cooking oil (no need to use extra-virgin; a decent pure olive oil is fine) is poured through a fine-mesh strainer to completely cover the fish and fill the jar. Using a skewer, poke through the jar and make sure there are no air bubbles. Cover with canning jar lids and rings. It's best to store home-canned fish in the refrigerator. As long as the fish is thoroughly covered in oil, it can last for several months. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/poachingsalmoninoliveoil1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/poachingsalmoninoliveoil1000-190x190.jpg\" alt=\"Poaching salmon in olive oil. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-63890\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/canningsalmon600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/canningsalmon600-190x190.jpg\" alt=\"Canning poached cured salmon. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-63891\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/cannedsalmon600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/cannedsalmon600-190x190.jpg\" alt=\"The canned salmon steaming. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-63889\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Davidson packs a few jars to demonstrate, then fills a plate for us to taste. It's moist, mild, and rich, much better than any store-bought canned salmon I've ever tasted. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Next, we move on smoking. Like scaling, this is best done outside, since the smoke from both the charcoal and the wood chips will smoke up any kitchen not equipped with near-professional quality vents over the stove (and plenty of windows). Using a perforated grilling tray, Davidson gets some charcoal glowing over the burner of the outdoor stove, then spreads it over the bottom of a heavy, 6-inch deep hotel pan. He tosses a handful of wood chips in another perforated tray, gets them burning, then douses them lightly with water to put out the flames, leaving them smoking. The smoking chip pan goes over the charcoal. Another perforated pan goes upside down over the chips and charcoal, and the salmon is laid out on top. A lid goes over the pan, and voila: it's a hot-smoking smoke box, which will cook and smoke the fish. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/stove-items1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/stove-items1000-190x190.jpg\" alt=\"Stovetop preparations to poach and smoke salmon. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-63896\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/smokingsalmon1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/smokingsalmon1000-190x190.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Neil Davidson smoking the salmon on the stovetop. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-63886\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/finalsmokedsalmon1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/finalsmokedsalmon1000-190x190.jpg\" alt=\"The finished smoked salmon. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-63888\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Two or three times, Davidson adds more smoking wood chips, slipping them onto the charcoal at the bottom of the pan. At 145-150ºF, the fish is cooked, lifting easily off the skin and with a lacquered-looking amber surface. He slides the fish onto a plate, and in moments, the heap of warm-from-the-smoker salmon is demolished, down to a smudge of oil and a few stray pin bones. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_63893\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/eatingsmokedsalmon1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/eatingsmokedsalmon1000.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Neil Davidson serves up the smoked salmon to enthusiastic students. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"669\" class=\"size-full wp-image-63893\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Neil Davidson serves up the smoked salmon to enthusiastic students. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: Cured and Olive-Oil Poached Black Cod\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Black cod, also known as sablefish, is less expensive than salmon, but has a firm, rich flesh that's well-suited to oil-poaching and canning. Recipe courtesy of Neil Davidson.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>1 black cod filet (1-2 lbs), skin removed\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 cup sea salt\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 cup granulated sugar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>4 cups olive oil\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003col>\n\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>Make the cure by mixing the salt and sugar together. Line a tray long enough to hold the whole filet with plastic wrap. Put a thick layer of cure on the plastic. Lay the filet on the cure and cover with remaining cure, so that filet is fully covered. Refrigerate for 30 minutes; typically, you want to cure fish one hour for every inch of thickness.\u003c/li>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cli>While the cod is curing, heat oil in a wide saucepan to 180ºF. Rinse cure off fish and pat dry. Add the fish to the hot oil. (It's fine to cut the filets to fit them in the oil.) Keep the oil between 160-180ºF. The fish should be cooked in no more than 2 minutes.\u003c/li>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cli>Pack the fish firmly into clean canning jars. Strain the hot cooking oil into the jars, making sure the fish is completely covered and that there are no air pockets. The canned fish will keep in the refrigerator for two to three months, as long as the fish is kept completely covered in oil.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Wild salmon season's in full swing. Through CUESA and Urban Kitchen SF, Stephanie Rosenbaum learns from chef Neil Davidson and fishing expert Maria Finn how to fillet, cure, can, and smoke whole salmon and black cod. \r\n",
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"description": "Wild salmon season's in full swing. Through CUESA and Urban Kitchen SF, Stephanie Rosenbaum learns from chef Neil Davidson and fishing expert Maria Finn how to fillet, cure, can, and smoke whole salmon and black cod. \r\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Admit it: When faced with fish, you buy fillets. But why? Is it the face? The fins? Fear of scales? Fear of bones? Well, get over it. Now that our \u003ca href=\"http://www.dfg.ca.gov/marine/oceansalmon.asp\">local sport and commercial salmon fishing season is open\u003c/a>, you might very well find yourself tempted--or treated--to a whole fish, and when that happens, it's handy to know how to handle it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_63810\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/salmon600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/salmon600.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Neil Davidson filleting a whole salmon. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend \" width=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-63810\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Neil Davidson filleting a whole salmon. Photo: \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/wendy-goodfriend/\">Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/a>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>It's also much more economical, and sustainable, to feed yourself nose-to-fin on a whole wild fish. \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/mariafinn/\">Maria Finn\u003c/a>, Bay Area Bites writer, former commercial salmon fisherwoman, and author of \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/10/26/the-whole-fish-how-adventurous-eating-of-seafood-can-make-you-healthier-sexier-and-help-save-the-ocean/\">The Whole Fish: How Adventurous Eating of Seafood Can Make You Healthier, Sexier, and Help Save the Ocean\u003c/a> recently teamed up with chef Neil Davidson of \u003ca href=\"http://www.missiongastroclub.org/\">Mission Gastroclub\u003c/a> and the \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/WhipOutFoodTruck\">Whip Out\u003c/a> food truck to teach a hands-on class in scaling, filleting, preserving, and smoking whole fish at home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_63806\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/fishclass1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/fishclass1000.jpg\" alt=\"Maria Finn and Neil Davidson teaching Whole Fish Fabrication and Preservation Class. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"669\" class=\"size-full wp-image-63806\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Maria Finn and Neil Davidson teaching Whole Fish Fabrication and Preservation Class. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The class, presented by the \u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org\">Center for Urban Education about Sustainable Agriculture (CUESA)\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.urbankitchensf.org\">Urban Kitchen SF\u003c/a>, was held from 5:30 to 7:30pm last Thursday in CUESA's outdoor kitchen, under the porticos of the Ferry Building. It's not the most comfortable place for a cooking class; it's outside, after all, and instructions can be hard to hear over traffic noise as cars, trucks, and motorcycles screech and toot their way along The Embarcadero just yards away. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Still, it's hard not to be entranced by the massive, silvery whole salmon laid out in front of Davidson. This is the creme de la creme of Pacific Coast salmon: a wild king, fresh from the ocean just north of Sonoma County. Of course, as Finn points out, tasty, healthful dishes can be made from all five of our local salmon types, including pink, chum, silver, and sockeye. But for superlative texture and flavor, the king is king. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_63849\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/wholesalmon600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/wholesalmon600.jpg\" alt=\"Whole King Salmon. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-63849\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Whole King Salmon. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Davidson goes over the fish, telling us what to look for when choosing a fish: eyes that look clear and full, still sitting high in the socket, not sunken into the head; no cuts or slashes on the body; fins that are still in good shape. This fish has already been gutted, so there's just a neat cavity where the guts would have been. Picking up a thin, flexible, slightly curved filleting knife, Davidson quickly scrapes off the scales using the back (dull side) of the knife. This is a job to do outside, if possible, since the small, mica-like scales will pop off and fly everywhere.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_63813\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/scalingsalmon600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/scalingsalmon600.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Neil Davidson removing scales from a whole salmon. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend \" width=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-63813\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Neil Davidson removing scales from a whole salmon. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Once the fish is scaled, Davidson crunches his knife through the spine just behind the head, then slides it across the broad flanks of the fish along the ribs and spine all way to the tail, effortlessly freeing the whole long stretch of flesh from the bones. It looks easy only because he's been doing it professionally for years, from cooking school in Portland, OR to stints at The French Laundry and Ad Hoc. But, as he points out, the knife should be doing most of the work for you; what he's doing is mainly guiding it over the bones, following the structure of the fish. Angle the knife slightly downward, so that it won't cut up and into the flesh.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_63853\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/filleting-salmon600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/filleting-salmon600.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Neil Davidson demonstrates filleting the king salmon. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-63853\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Neil Davidson demonstrates filleting the king salmon. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Filleting whole salmon side by Chef Neil Davidson.\u003c/strong> \u003cem>Video by Stephanie Rosenbaum\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/ef3g89DBBc0'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/ef3g89DBBc0'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Along the bottom of each fillet is the belly meat, thickly streaked with white fat. As Finn points out, it's delicious (and full of beneficial omega-3 fats) but less meaty, which means it's often sliced off and discarded by fishmongers. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/fishhalffilleted600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/fishhalffilleted600-190x190.jpg\" alt=\"Salmon with one side filleted. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-63862\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/filleting-salmon600a.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/filleting-salmon600a-190x190.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Neil Davidson fillets other side of salmon. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-63861\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/displayfillets600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/displayfillets600-190x190.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Neil Davidson displays cut fillet of salmon. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-63863\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once he's freed up both sides, he points out the other delicious bits still left: the thick ring of flesh just behind the head, known as the collar, that makes for a delicious roast, since it's so fatty; the cheeks; the flesh you can scrape from the bones with the edge of a spoon and use for salmon patties or croquettes. The head, boiled with ginger and seaweed, makes a good broth that can be mixed with miso for a Japanese-styled soup. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_63859\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/scrapingsalmonspoon600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/scrapingsalmonspoon600.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Neil Davidson uses a spoon to scrape remains of salmon from bones to use for fish patties. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-63859\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Neil Davidson uses a spoon to scrape remains of salmon from bones to use for fish patties. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>With needle-nose pliers (or \u003ca href=\"http://www.hidatool.com/bone-tweezers-western-style\">bone tweezers\u003c/a>), Davidson quickly yanks out the pin bones studding the fillet. For smoking, he'd leave the bones in, to help preserve the shape of the fish, but for grilling or poaching, fewer bones are preferable. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_63867\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/removingbones1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/removingbones1000.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Neil Davidson uses needle-nose pliers to remove pin bones from salmon. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"669\" class=\"size-full wp-image-63867\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Neil Davidson uses needle-nose pliers to remove pin bones from salmon. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Today, we're putting the fillets through a quick cure, to pull out some of the liquid before poaching. If you've ever made bacon, the process will be familiar. The cure is equal parts (by weight) of salt and sugar. Finn notes that some native tribes in Alaska add pine tips to their cures; this being Mediterranean-minded San Francisco, Davidson adds some shreds of preserved Meyer lemon rind to his. Davidson skins the fillet before curing; without the skin, the fish will cure faster. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/curingfish1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/curingfish1000-290x194.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Neil Davidson demonstrates how to cure the fish. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"290\" height=\"194\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-63873\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/curingfish1000a.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/curingfish1000a-290x194.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Neil Davidson demonstrates how to cure the fish. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"290\" height=\"194\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-63874\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/skinning600a.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/skinning600a-190x190.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Neil Davidson demonstrates how to skin the fish. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-63870\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/skinning600b.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/skinning600b-190x190.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Neil Davidson demonstrates how to skin the fish. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-63871\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/skinning600c.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/skinning600c-190x190.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Neil Davidson demonstrates how to skin the fish. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-63872\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To skin it, he lays the side of fish skin side down, close to the edge of the counter. He cuts straight down through the flesh (but not through the skin) about half an inch from the tail, making a little tab of skin to hold onto with the hand that's not holding the knife. Holding one end of skin taut as you cut helps steady the fish and make it easier to get all the way down to that sweet spot right between the flesh and skin. Then, he slides the knife parallel to the counter, cutting the flesh free from the skin in one steady motion.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Skinning a Whole Side of Salmon.\u003c/strong> \u003cem>Video by Stephanie Rosenbaum\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/UBMg2J4BmhQ'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/UBMg2J4BmhQ'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003ch3>A few tips:\u003c/h3>\n\u003cli>Take as few strokes with the knife as you can, and make sure they're long\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Glide your knife through, don't saw up and down\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Listen through your fingers and pay attention to what your knife is telling you\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>In my experience, if it feels like you're doing it perfectly, stop and take a look: You're probably missing the skin entirely and are just blithely sliding your knife between the fish and the counter\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>If you're planning to smoke your fish, leave the skin on, to protect the fish and make it easier to move in one piece\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>We get to practice our filleting and skinning, not on salmon, but on smaller, less expensive (and more approachable) black cod, each roughly the size of a trout. Finn assures us that black cod is also a great candidate for curing, poaching, and smoking. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/blackcod-demo1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/blackcod-demo1000-190x190.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Neil Davidson demonstrates filleting black cod. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-63885\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/classmembersfilleting1000a.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/classmembersfilleting1000a-190x190.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Neil Davidson helps students butchering whole black cod. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-63882\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/classmembersfilleting1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/classmembersfilleting1000-190x190.jpg\" alt=\"Students in class working on butchering whole black cod. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-63883\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To cure, Davidson lines a sheet pan with plastic wrap or aluminum foil, spreads out a thick layer of the salt/sugar mixture, tops it with the skinned fillet, then covers the fish with the rest of the mixture. Then goes into the fridge, ideally for one hour for every inch of thickness. If you're planning to smoke your fish, once the fish is cured, rinse off the salt/sugar mixture, pat the fish dry, and return the fish to rest in the fridge, uncovered, overnight. The surface will dry out and feel slightly tacky; the fish will take the smoke best like this. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On the stove, Davidson has been heating up a wide saucepan half-filled with olive oil, bringing it up to a temperature between 160-180ºF. Once the fish is cured, it's rinsed off, patted dry, then slipped into the warm oil to poach. In five minutes, the fish has paled and gone from translucent to opaque. Once it flakes easily, it's done. Scooped out of the oil, it's packed firmly into clean canning jars, to just below the lowest \"ridge\" of the screw-top indentations. The cooking oil (no need to use extra-virgin; a decent pure olive oil is fine) is poured through a fine-mesh strainer to completely cover the fish and fill the jar. Using a skewer, poke through the jar and make sure there are no air bubbles. Cover with canning jar lids and rings. It's best to store home-canned fish in the refrigerator. As long as the fish is thoroughly covered in oil, it can last for several months. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/poachingsalmoninoliveoil1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/poachingsalmoninoliveoil1000-190x190.jpg\" alt=\"Poaching salmon in olive oil. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-63890\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/canningsalmon600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/canningsalmon600-190x190.jpg\" alt=\"Canning poached cured salmon. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-63891\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/cannedsalmon600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/cannedsalmon600-190x190.jpg\" alt=\"The canned salmon steaming. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-63889\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Davidson packs a few jars to demonstrate, then fills a plate for us to taste. It's moist, mild, and rich, much better than any store-bought canned salmon I've ever tasted. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Next, we move on smoking. Like scaling, this is best done outside, since the smoke from both the charcoal and the wood chips will smoke up any kitchen not equipped with near-professional quality vents over the stove (and plenty of windows). Using a perforated grilling tray, Davidson gets some charcoal glowing over the burner of the outdoor stove, then spreads it over the bottom of a heavy, 6-inch deep hotel pan. He tosses a handful of wood chips in another perforated tray, gets them burning, then douses them lightly with water to put out the flames, leaving them smoking. The smoking chip pan goes over the charcoal. Another perforated pan goes upside down over the chips and charcoal, and the salmon is laid out on top. A lid goes over the pan, and voila: it's a hot-smoking smoke box, which will cook and smoke the fish. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/stove-items1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/stove-items1000-190x190.jpg\" alt=\"Stovetop preparations to poach and smoke salmon. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-63896\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/smokingsalmon1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/smokingsalmon1000-190x190.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Neil Davidson smoking the salmon on the stovetop. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-63886\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/finalsmokedsalmon1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/finalsmokedsalmon1000-190x190.jpg\" alt=\"The finished smoked salmon. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-63888\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Two or three times, Davidson adds more smoking wood chips, slipping them onto the charcoal at the bottom of the pan. At 145-150ºF, the fish is cooked, lifting easily off the skin and with a lacquered-looking amber surface. He slides the fish onto a plate, and in moments, the heap of warm-from-the-smoker salmon is demolished, down to a smudge of oil and a few stray pin bones. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_63893\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/eatingsmokedsalmon1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/eatingsmokedsalmon1000.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Neil Davidson serves up the smoked salmon to enthusiastic students. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"669\" class=\"size-full wp-image-63893\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Neil Davidson serves up the smoked salmon to enthusiastic students. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: Cured and Olive-Oil Poached Black Cod\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Black cod, also known as sablefish, is less expensive than salmon, but has a firm, rich flesh that's well-suited to oil-poaching and canning. Recipe courtesy of Neil Davidson.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>1 black cod filet (1-2 lbs), skin removed\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 cup sea salt\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 cup granulated sugar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>4 cups olive oil\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003col>\n\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>Make the cure by mixing the salt and sugar together. Line a tray long enough to hold the whole filet with plastic wrap. Put a thick layer of cure on the plastic. Lay the filet on the cure and cover with remaining cure, so that filet is fully covered. Refrigerate for 30 minutes; typically, you want to cure fish one hour for every inch of thickness.\u003c/li>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cli>While the cod is curing, heat oil in a wide saucepan to 180ºF. Rinse cure off fish and pat dry. Add the fish to the hot oil. (It's fine to cut the filets to fit them in the oil.) Keep the oil between 160-180ºF. The fish should be cooked in no more than 2 minutes.\u003c/li>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cli>Pack the fish firmly into clean canning jars. Strain the hot cooking oil into the jars, making sure the fish is completely covered and that there are no air pockets. The canned fish will keep in the refrigerator for two to three months, as long as the fish is kept completely covered in oil.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Watch Master Fruit & Vegetable Carver Jimmy Zhang Make Melons Bloom and Carrots Fly ",
"title": "Watch Master Fruit & Vegetable Carver Jimmy Zhang Make Melons Bloom and Carrots Fly ",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>[youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TyH2yj7SgUY]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.artchef.com/\">Jimmy Zhang\u003c/a>’s passion was unleashed by a potato. As a teenager in Shenyang, China, he saw a video of a chef carving a rose out of a potato and was instantly hooked. But when he tried to fashion his own spud blossoms at home with an ordinary knife, he discovered it wasn’t as easy as it looked. So after high school, Zhang enrolled in a Chinese Culinary Arts Institute program specializing in the ancient art of \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vegetable_carving\">fruit and vegetable carving\u003c/a>. After assisting his distinguished teacher, winning international competitions in China and abroad, he moved to Northern California. He now teaches locally and nationally, presents live demonstrations and carves elaborate creations for events from birthday banquets to weddings.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_63541\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 960px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/jimmy-zhang-rose.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/jimmy-zhang-rose.jpg\" alt=\"Jimmy Zhang carves a rose. Photo: Anna Mindess\" width=\"960\" height=\"1012\" class=\"size-full wp-image-63541\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jimmy Zhang carves a rose. Photo: Anna Mindess\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Zhang’s parents were supportive of his career decision from the start, but his brother had some complaints. “I had to practice a lot at home, using materials like radishes and potatoes in the wintertime,” said Zhang, “and every night, my mother made the vegetables into a beef stew. My brother would sigh, ‘Stew, again?!’”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“My dream was to travel and see the world outside of China,” says Zhang. A visit to a friend in sunny California, decided his future, but in 1997, when Zhang moved here, he spoke no English. He took ESL classes--where he met his future wife--but didn’t think his English improved much.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When he landed a job teaching Asian art and cooking in the \u003ca href=\"http://www.laney.edu/wp/culinary_arts/\">Culinary Arts Program at Oakland’s Laney College\u003c/a>, however, his students helped him find the right words. “The students knew I had excellent skills, but my English wasn’t good enough to express what I wanted to say,” admits Zhang, smiling. “So I taught them with my broken English and they gave me the correct words to use, like “cut this smooth and round” and then I repeated what they said and that’s how I learned English.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_63539\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 960px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/Chef-Jimmy-Zhang-creates-a-bird-from-carrots.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/Chef-Jimmy-Zhang-creates-a-bird-from-carrots.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Jimmy Zhang creates a bird from carrots. Photo: Jimmy Zhang\" width=\"960\" height=\"947\" class=\"size-full wp-image-63539\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Jimmy Zhang creates a bird from carrots. Photo: Jimmy Zhang\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Zhang’s favorite subjects are living creatures, since the challenge is to depict their vitality through action or emotion. He has carved rearing horses out of taro, tropical fish from squash and carrots and a feisty dragon out of giant radishes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A crew from Snapple once came to his house and filmed him carving an entire vegetable tableau to illustrate one of the facts on their lids: \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wzenr2cGJC4\">“A dolphin sleeps with one eye open.”\u003c/a> Zhang fashioned a beach scene, complete with taro dolphin lounging on a beach chair underneath an acorn squash umbrella, the dolphin’s one open eye is focused possessively on his bottle of Snapple.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_63540\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/intricate-melon.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/intricate-melon.jpg\" alt=\"Watermelon carving by Jimmy Zhang. Photo: Anna Mindess\" width=\"1000\" height=\"916\" class=\"size-full wp-image-63540\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Watermelon carving by Jimmy Zhang. Photo: Anna Mindess\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>For awe-inspiring, elegant beauty, Zhang’s exquisitely faceted watermelon flower centerpieces are just too gorgeous to eat. They often require an hour and a half of precise, repetitive cutting with a special knife. Watermelon is the perfect sculptural medium with its translucent layers of green white, pink and red hues. (Traditional carvers prefer to take advantage of the exquisite natural colors that fruit and vegetables already possess, in lieu of dyeing them.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Zhang, a recipient of numerous medals at professional fruit carving competitions, is in high demand as a teacher and is often invited to present daylong to weeklong courses at culinary schools around the country. He also organizes his own private group classes through his website, \u003ca href=\"http://www.artchef.com/classes.html\">Art Chef\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_63545\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/Jimmy-Zhang-at-Veggy-Art-Studios.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/Jimmy-Zhang-at-Veggy-Art-Studios.jpg\" alt=\"Jimmy Zhang teaches at Veggy Art Studios. Photo: Jimmy Zhang\" width=\"1000\" height=\"663\" class=\"size-full wp-image-63545\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jimmy Zhang teaches at Veggy Art Studios. Photo: Jimmy Zhang\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Future plans include a summer program designed specifically for youth, ages 13-20. “Mostly, I’ve taught adults, both professionals and non-professionals, but young people really love this art too and it’s good to develop your skills at an early age, since it takes some practice,” says Zhang, who began learning his craft at age 19.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Zhang admits that even though he has attained the highest skill level in this exacting art, he no longer competes in tournaments. “I leave that to my students. And if they earn the medals, it means, I’ve done a good job as teacher.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Facebook:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/artchef1\">Jimmy Zhang, Art Chef\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Want to carve a rearing horse out of taro, tropical fish from carrots or a roaring dragon out of giant radishes? Watch Chef Jimmy Zhang, Master of the Chinese Art of Fruit and Vegetable carving in this video as he fashions an exquisite watermelon rose and shares the secrets of this ancient craft.",
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"description": "Want to carve a rearing horse out of taro, tropical fish from carrots or a roaring dragon out of giant radishes? Watch Chef Jimmy Zhang, Master of the Chinese Art of Fruit and Vegetable carving in this video as he fashions an exquisite watermelon rose and shares the secrets of this ancient craft.",
"title": "Watch Master Fruit & Vegetable Carver Jimmy Zhang Make Melons Bloom and Carrots Fly | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/TyH2yj7SgUY'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/TyH2yj7SgUY'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.artchef.com/\">Jimmy Zhang\u003c/a>’s passion was unleashed by a potato. As a teenager in Shenyang, China, he saw a video of a chef carving a rose out of a potato and was instantly hooked. But when he tried to fashion his own spud blossoms at home with an ordinary knife, he discovered it wasn’t as easy as it looked. So after high school, Zhang enrolled in a Chinese Culinary Arts Institute program specializing in the ancient art of \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vegetable_carving\">fruit and vegetable carving\u003c/a>. After assisting his distinguished teacher, winning international competitions in China and abroad, he moved to Northern California. He now teaches locally and nationally, presents live demonstrations and carves elaborate creations for events from birthday banquets to weddings.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_63541\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 960px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/jimmy-zhang-rose.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/jimmy-zhang-rose.jpg\" alt=\"Jimmy Zhang carves a rose. Photo: Anna Mindess\" width=\"960\" height=\"1012\" class=\"size-full wp-image-63541\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jimmy Zhang carves a rose. Photo: Anna Mindess\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Zhang’s parents were supportive of his career decision from the start, but his brother had some complaints. “I had to practice a lot at home, using materials like radishes and potatoes in the wintertime,” said Zhang, “and every night, my mother made the vegetables into a beef stew. My brother would sigh, ‘Stew, again?!’”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“My dream was to travel and see the world outside of China,” says Zhang. A visit to a friend in sunny California, decided his future, but in 1997, when Zhang moved here, he spoke no English. He took ESL classes--where he met his future wife--but didn’t think his English improved much.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When he landed a job teaching Asian art and cooking in the \u003ca href=\"http://www.laney.edu/wp/culinary_arts/\">Culinary Arts Program at Oakland’s Laney College\u003c/a>, however, his students helped him find the right words. “The students knew I had excellent skills, but my English wasn’t good enough to express what I wanted to say,” admits Zhang, smiling. “So I taught them with my broken English and they gave me the correct words to use, like “cut this smooth and round” and then I repeated what they said and that’s how I learned English.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_63539\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 960px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/Chef-Jimmy-Zhang-creates-a-bird-from-carrots.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/Chef-Jimmy-Zhang-creates-a-bird-from-carrots.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Jimmy Zhang creates a bird from carrots. Photo: Jimmy Zhang\" width=\"960\" height=\"947\" class=\"size-full wp-image-63539\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Jimmy Zhang creates a bird from carrots. Photo: Jimmy Zhang\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Zhang’s favorite subjects are living creatures, since the challenge is to depict their vitality through action or emotion. He has carved rearing horses out of taro, tropical fish from squash and carrots and a feisty dragon out of giant radishes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A crew from Snapple once came to his house and filmed him carving an entire vegetable tableau to illustrate one of the facts on their lids: \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wzenr2cGJC4\">“A dolphin sleeps with one eye open.”\u003c/a> Zhang fashioned a beach scene, complete with taro dolphin lounging on a beach chair underneath an acorn squash umbrella, the dolphin’s one open eye is focused possessively on his bottle of Snapple.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_63540\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/intricate-melon.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/intricate-melon.jpg\" alt=\"Watermelon carving by Jimmy Zhang. Photo: Anna Mindess\" width=\"1000\" height=\"916\" class=\"size-full wp-image-63540\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Watermelon carving by Jimmy Zhang. Photo: Anna Mindess\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>For awe-inspiring, elegant beauty, Zhang’s exquisitely faceted watermelon flower centerpieces are just too gorgeous to eat. They often require an hour and a half of precise, repetitive cutting with a special knife. Watermelon is the perfect sculptural medium with its translucent layers of green white, pink and red hues. (Traditional carvers prefer to take advantage of the exquisite natural colors that fruit and vegetables already possess, in lieu of dyeing them.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Zhang, a recipient of numerous medals at professional fruit carving competitions, is in high demand as a teacher and is often invited to present daylong to weeklong courses at culinary schools around the country. He also organizes his own private group classes through his website, \u003ca href=\"http://www.artchef.com/classes.html\">Art Chef\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_63545\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/Jimmy-Zhang-at-Veggy-Art-Studios.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/Jimmy-Zhang-at-Veggy-Art-Studios.jpg\" alt=\"Jimmy Zhang teaches at Veggy Art Studios. Photo: Jimmy Zhang\" width=\"1000\" height=\"663\" class=\"size-full wp-image-63545\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jimmy Zhang teaches at Veggy Art Studios. Photo: Jimmy Zhang\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Future plans include a summer program designed specifically for youth, ages 13-20. “Mostly, I’ve taught adults, both professionals and non-professionals, but young people really love this art too and it’s good to develop your skills at an early age, since it takes some practice,” says Zhang, who began learning his craft at age 19.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Zhang admits that even though he has attained the highest skill level in this exacting art, he no longer competes in tournaments. “I leave that to my students. And if they earn the medals, it means, I’ve done a good job as teacher.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Facebook:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/artchef1\">Jimmy Zhang, Art Chef\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Sunset's Celebration Weekend: Yigit Pura Demos and Shares Thai-Hawaiian Inspired Dessert Recipe ",
"title": "Sunset's Celebration Weekend: Yigit Pura Demos and Shares Thai-Hawaiian Inspired Dessert Recipe ",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_63185\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/Yigit2-1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/Yigit2-1000.jpg\" alt=\"Yigit Pura of Tout Sweet Patisserie doing a cooking demonstration at the Sunset's Celebration Weekend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-63185\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Yigit Pura of Tout Sweet Patisserie doing a cooking demonstration at the Sunset's Celebration Weekend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Rolling through Redwood City on a slow-crawling weekend Caltrain, you can't help but notice the archway proclaiming \"\u003ca href=\"http://www.redwoodcity.org/about/local_history/exhibits/climate_best/climate_best.html\">Climate Best by Government Test\u003c/a>,\" a slogan dating back to the 1920s, when the U.S. government determined that the Peninsula was at the epicenter of one of the world's three best year-round climates. While San Francisco is shuddering in fog, the suburban towns strung along the southern end of San Francisco Bay--shielded from the marine chill by the high-shrugged spine of the Santa Cruz mountains--bask in humidity-free sunshine, day after day. So it seems only fitting that \u003ca href=\"http://www.sunset.com\">Sunset\u003c/a> would have built its \"Laboratory for Western Living\" in Menlo Park, its climate just as perfect as its bragging neighbor just a few whistle-stops to the north. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sunset's spacious ranch-style digs--and its extensive surrounding gardens--really are a laboratory, where everything gets field-tested: new tomato varieties, outdoor kitchen designs, tasty taco recipes, and a whole lot of cacti and lavender. Plants are planted to see how they fare in a prototypical (if ideal) Western climate; garden layouts are arranged; and the test kitchen is always cooking. While the campus looks like more like a spa-hotel than an office, it's a workplace nonetheless, and the public gets to wander in and around it only once a year, during its annual \u003ca href=\"http://www.sunset.com/marketplace/sunset-events-00400000036178/\">Sunset's Celebration Weekend\u003c/a>, held this year on June 1-2. It's a two-day festival of cooking, gardening, and outdoor living demonstrations, with seminars and tastings of local wines and beers, tours of the test kitchen, brand promotions, talks with travel writers and professionals, and lots of how-to by local chefs and TV cooking-show celebrities, along with cookbook authors and Sunset editors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_63181\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/bloody-mary-station1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/bloody-mary-station1000.jpg\" alt=\"Lea & Perrins offers Bloody Mary shots made with its Worcestershire sauce\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-63181\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Lea & Perrins offers Bloody Mary shots made with its Worcestershire sauce\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/food-trucks1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/food-trucks1000.jpg\" alt=\"Food trucks at Sunset Celebration\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-63189\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And since you can't talk about food all day long without wanting to eat some, and this being the Bay Area in 2013, much of the food for sale came from a long double row of \u003ca href=\"http://offthegridsf.com/\">Off the Grid\u003c/a> trucks, with many popular local mobile (and sit-down) eateries representing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_63184\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/whole-beast1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/whole-beast1000.jpg\" alt=\"John Fink and The Whole Beast\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-63184\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">John Fink and The Whole Beast\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp> John Fink of \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/08/12/outside-lambs-a-moroccan-oasis-within-outside-lands/\">The Whole Beast\u003c/a> was on hand, selling massive, fabulous-looking barbecued ribs, potato salad and slaw, while the staff of Marianne Despres's \u003ca href=\"http://www.elsursf.com\">El Sur\u003c/a> dished out empanadas from her signature Citroen van.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_63182\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/el-sur1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/el-sur1000.jpg\" alt=\"El Sur Food Truck\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-63182\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">El Sur Food Truck\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>After \u003ca href=\"http://www.nopalitosf.com\">Nopalito\u003c/a> ran out of gorditas and chips, they turned into a popsicle stand, selling strawberry, lime sherbet, and dark chocolate-cinnamon pops, while the roving bartenders at \u003ca href=\"http://www.ryeontheroad.com/\">Rye on the Road\u003c/a> stirred up some cooling Pimm's Cups. Despres, who grew up in Menlo Park, was particularly excited to be on the roster of chef-demonstrators in the outdoor kitchen, showing off the technique behind her popular Parisien empanada, made with proscuitto, ham, scallions, and a mixture of cheeses. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_63183\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/nopalito-booth1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/nopalito-booth1000.jpg\" alt=\"The menu at Nopalito's booth\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-63183\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The menu at Nopalito's booth\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>But back to that test kitchen: As a city renter who's written four cookbooks plus countless food columns, I've gotten used to doing my recipe development and testing in studio-apartment kitchens the size of a tissue box--or in shared kitchens already crammed full of other people's cereal boxes and leftover pad Thai. And while my experiences may be more scrappy than most, your typical cookbook author can only dream of having have a workspace like the Sunset test kitchen. This is no industrial, fluorescent-lit restaurant kitchen, all roaring burners, stainless-steel tables and cavernous sinks; instead, with its wood-paneled cabinets and comfortable counters, it's most like an extremely well-organized and well-stocked home kitchen, if your kitchen at home was twice the size of your living room. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(It's an interesting open secret in the industry that magazine recipes--at least at the handful of magazines that still maintain in-house, professionally staffed test kitchens, as Sunset does--are often much more rigorously tested than recipes published in cookbooks. For books, the author assumes the responsibility of recipe-testing. Maybe they're incredibly diligent about it; maybe they're not. An equally diligent editor (or editorial assistant) might spot-test a handful of recipes, but certainly no one at a publishing house is being paid to cook every recipe in an entire book, as they are at a food-focused magazine.) \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While Sunset spends at least as many of its pages devoted to travel, home design, and gardening as it does to food, the recipes and entertaining spreads are a crucial part of its appeal. In our local edition, the recipes invariably capture our particular kind of breeziness at the table (or at least the no-fuss, casually elegant breeziness to which we've learned to aspire). On Sunday, I caught \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/yigitpura\">Yigit Pura\u003c/a>, of San Francisco's \u003ca href=\"http://www.toutsweetsf.com\">Tout Sweet Patisserie\u003c/a>, schooling a rapt audience in the ways of a Thai food-inspired coconut tapioca pudding. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_63180\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/Yigit1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/Yigit1000.jpg\" alt=\"Yigit Pura of Tout Sweet Patisserie doing a cooking demonstration at the Sunset's Celebration Weekend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-63180\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Yigit Pura of Tout Sweet Patisserie doing a cooking demonstration at the Sunset's Celebration Weekend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Running a bakery, Pura tells us, means he works 16 hour days and never cooks real food. When he's not eating sweets, he lives on takeout from the Thai Food Express near his apartment. The citrusy bite of crushed lemongrass, coconut, and fresh kaffir lime leaves (used like \"the Asian version of bay leaf\") in a recent order of tom kha gai soup found their way, via a gentle infusion in warmed milk, into the dessert course. As he made the pudding, he interspersed his snappy patter with useful hints: infusions should always be covered while steeping, to prevent the flavor-packed essential oils from evaporating; things like tea, coffee, and citrus rinds shouldn't stay in an infusion for more than 7 or 8 minutes, lest they reveal their overly tannic, astringent qualities; smashing lemongrass with a mallet is the best way to release the juices and fragrant oils (not to mention tension); and it's stupid to buy spices in a supermarket (the massive Safeway branding on display at the event notwithstanding) when you can get better, fresher, and much cheaper spices in bulk at places like Rainbow Grocery and the \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfherb.com/\">San Francisco Herb Co\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Most important, he stressed, was soaking your tapioca pearls in very cold water overnight, and gently stirring them throughout the cooking process, all to avoid their clinging together into gummy sludge, something that's definitely \"not sexy!\", his biggest put-down for bad desserts (or bad behavior). The Turkish-born Pura, who calls Hawaii his most favorite place on the planet (his dog is named Maui), suggests topping the finished coconut pudding (well, almost finished--just as he started to spoon it into the tall glass display dish, he realized he'd left out the sugar--\"Awkward!\") with a mixture of diced mango, papaya and roasted coconut shards. Cool, sweet, easy, with a hint of down-home nostalgia dressed with contemporary Pacific Rim touches--it's a perfect dish for Sunset-style summer living here in California. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Coconut Tapioca Pudding with Papaya and Mango\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Recipe courtesy of Yigit Pura. Used by permission. \u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>1/2 cup tapioca pearls\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 1/2 cups plus 1/2 cup milk\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 vanilla bean\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 stalk lemongrass\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Fresh ginger root, about a 3-inch piece\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 cup plus 1 tablespoon sugar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>One 14-ounce can coconut milk\u003c/li>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Fruit For Garnish:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>1/8 cup ripe mango cubes\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/8 cup ripe papaya cubes\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Toasted large-flaked coconut\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003col>\n\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>Cover small tapioca pearls with 4 cups cold water and soak overnight. Don't stir or disturb.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Bring the 2 1/2 cups milk to a boil. Meanwhile, scrape the vanilla seeds from the pod. Crush the lemongrass stalk to release the natural flavors. Peel the fresh ginger and cut into 2 tablespoons of rings. Place all of this into the hot milk and leave covered for half hour to steep, off the heat.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Strain the milk infusion, discarding solids, and add the remaining 1/2 cup of milk. Add the sugar and bring back to a boil.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Strain the tapioca pearls, discarding water. Gently place pearls into the hot milk. Gently stir with a rubber spatula and cook on medium heat for 3 to 5 minutes, stirring occasionally to avoid lumps. The tapioca is cooked once it looks translucent.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Gently warm up the coconut milk separately and stir in at the end of cooking. Transfer to a container, place plastic on the top to prevent a skin forming and refrigerate until cool, ideally overnight.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Once the pudding is cooled it will naturally set, thanks to the tapioca starch. Spoon into serving bowls and garnish with the fruits and the toasted coconut.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Stephanie Rosenbaum shares some highlights from Sunset's Celebration Weekend -- including a recipe for \u003cem>Coconut Tapioca Pudding with Papaya and Mango\u003c/em> from Yigit Pura of Tout Sweet Patisserie.",
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"description": "Stephanie Rosenbaum shares some highlights from Sunset's Celebration Weekend -- including a recipe for Coconut Tapioca Pudding with Papaya and Mango from Yigit Pura of Tout Sweet Patisserie.",
"title": "Sunset's Celebration Weekend: Yigit Pura Demos and Shares Thai-Hawaiian Inspired Dessert Recipe | KQED",
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"headline": "Sunset's Celebration Weekend: Yigit Pura Demos and Shares Thai-Hawaiian Inspired Dessert Recipe ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_63185\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/Yigit2-1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/Yigit2-1000.jpg\" alt=\"Yigit Pura of Tout Sweet Patisserie doing a cooking demonstration at the Sunset's Celebration Weekend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-63185\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Yigit Pura of Tout Sweet Patisserie doing a cooking demonstration at the Sunset's Celebration Weekend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Rolling through Redwood City on a slow-crawling weekend Caltrain, you can't help but notice the archway proclaiming \"\u003ca href=\"http://www.redwoodcity.org/about/local_history/exhibits/climate_best/climate_best.html\">Climate Best by Government Test\u003c/a>,\" a slogan dating back to the 1920s, when the U.S. government determined that the Peninsula was at the epicenter of one of the world's three best year-round climates. While San Francisco is shuddering in fog, the suburban towns strung along the southern end of San Francisco Bay--shielded from the marine chill by the high-shrugged spine of the Santa Cruz mountains--bask in humidity-free sunshine, day after day. So it seems only fitting that \u003ca href=\"http://www.sunset.com\">Sunset\u003c/a> would have built its \"Laboratory for Western Living\" in Menlo Park, its climate just as perfect as its bragging neighbor just a few whistle-stops to the north. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sunset's spacious ranch-style digs--and its extensive surrounding gardens--really are a laboratory, where everything gets field-tested: new tomato varieties, outdoor kitchen designs, tasty taco recipes, and a whole lot of cacti and lavender. Plants are planted to see how they fare in a prototypical (if ideal) Western climate; garden layouts are arranged; and the test kitchen is always cooking. While the campus looks like more like a spa-hotel than an office, it's a workplace nonetheless, and the public gets to wander in and around it only once a year, during its annual \u003ca href=\"http://www.sunset.com/marketplace/sunset-events-00400000036178/\">Sunset's Celebration Weekend\u003c/a>, held this year on June 1-2. It's a two-day festival of cooking, gardening, and outdoor living demonstrations, with seminars and tastings of local wines and beers, tours of the test kitchen, brand promotions, talks with travel writers and professionals, and lots of how-to by local chefs and TV cooking-show celebrities, along with cookbook authors and Sunset editors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_63181\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/bloody-mary-station1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/bloody-mary-station1000.jpg\" alt=\"Lea & Perrins offers Bloody Mary shots made with its Worcestershire sauce\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-63181\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Lea & Perrins offers Bloody Mary shots made with its Worcestershire sauce\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/food-trucks1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/food-trucks1000.jpg\" alt=\"Food trucks at Sunset Celebration\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-63189\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And since you can't talk about food all day long without wanting to eat some, and this being the Bay Area in 2013, much of the food for sale came from a long double row of \u003ca href=\"http://offthegridsf.com/\">Off the Grid\u003c/a> trucks, with many popular local mobile (and sit-down) eateries representing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_63184\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/whole-beast1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/whole-beast1000.jpg\" alt=\"John Fink and The Whole Beast\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-63184\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">John Fink and The Whole Beast\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp> John Fink of \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/08/12/outside-lambs-a-moroccan-oasis-within-outside-lands/\">The Whole Beast\u003c/a> was on hand, selling massive, fabulous-looking barbecued ribs, potato salad and slaw, while the staff of Marianne Despres's \u003ca href=\"http://www.elsursf.com\">El Sur\u003c/a> dished out empanadas from her signature Citroen van.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_63182\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/el-sur1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/el-sur1000.jpg\" alt=\"El Sur Food Truck\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-63182\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">El Sur Food Truck\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>After \u003ca href=\"http://www.nopalitosf.com\">Nopalito\u003c/a> ran out of gorditas and chips, they turned into a popsicle stand, selling strawberry, lime sherbet, and dark chocolate-cinnamon pops, while the roving bartenders at \u003ca href=\"http://www.ryeontheroad.com/\">Rye on the Road\u003c/a> stirred up some cooling Pimm's Cups. Despres, who grew up in Menlo Park, was particularly excited to be on the roster of chef-demonstrators in the outdoor kitchen, showing off the technique behind her popular Parisien empanada, made with proscuitto, ham, scallions, and a mixture of cheeses. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_63183\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/nopalito-booth1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/nopalito-booth1000.jpg\" alt=\"The menu at Nopalito's booth\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-63183\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The menu at Nopalito's booth\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>But back to that test kitchen: As a city renter who's written four cookbooks plus countless food columns, I've gotten used to doing my recipe development and testing in studio-apartment kitchens the size of a tissue box--or in shared kitchens already crammed full of other people's cereal boxes and leftover pad Thai. And while my experiences may be more scrappy than most, your typical cookbook author can only dream of having have a workspace like the Sunset test kitchen. This is no industrial, fluorescent-lit restaurant kitchen, all roaring burners, stainless-steel tables and cavernous sinks; instead, with its wood-paneled cabinets and comfortable counters, it's most like an extremely well-organized and well-stocked home kitchen, if your kitchen at home was twice the size of your living room. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(It's an interesting open secret in the industry that magazine recipes--at least at the handful of magazines that still maintain in-house, professionally staffed test kitchens, as Sunset does--are often much more rigorously tested than recipes published in cookbooks. For books, the author assumes the responsibility of recipe-testing. Maybe they're incredibly diligent about it; maybe they're not. An equally diligent editor (or editorial assistant) might spot-test a handful of recipes, but certainly no one at a publishing house is being paid to cook every recipe in an entire book, as they are at a food-focused magazine.) \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While Sunset spends at least as many of its pages devoted to travel, home design, and gardening as it does to food, the recipes and entertaining spreads are a crucial part of its appeal. In our local edition, the recipes invariably capture our particular kind of breeziness at the table (or at least the no-fuss, casually elegant breeziness to which we've learned to aspire). On Sunday, I caught \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/yigitpura\">Yigit Pura\u003c/a>, of San Francisco's \u003ca href=\"http://www.toutsweetsf.com\">Tout Sweet Patisserie\u003c/a>, schooling a rapt audience in the ways of a Thai food-inspired coconut tapioca pudding. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_63180\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/Yigit1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/Yigit1000.jpg\" alt=\"Yigit Pura of Tout Sweet Patisserie doing a cooking demonstration at the Sunset's Celebration Weekend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-63180\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Yigit Pura of Tout Sweet Patisserie doing a cooking demonstration at the Sunset's Celebration Weekend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Running a bakery, Pura tells us, means he works 16 hour days and never cooks real food. When he's not eating sweets, he lives on takeout from the Thai Food Express near his apartment. The citrusy bite of crushed lemongrass, coconut, and fresh kaffir lime leaves (used like \"the Asian version of bay leaf\") in a recent order of tom kha gai soup found their way, via a gentle infusion in warmed milk, into the dessert course. As he made the pudding, he interspersed his snappy patter with useful hints: infusions should always be covered while steeping, to prevent the flavor-packed essential oils from evaporating; things like tea, coffee, and citrus rinds shouldn't stay in an infusion for more than 7 or 8 minutes, lest they reveal their overly tannic, astringent qualities; smashing lemongrass with a mallet is the best way to release the juices and fragrant oils (not to mention tension); and it's stupid to buy spices in a supermarket (the massive Safeway branding on display at the event notwithstanding) when you can get better, fresher, and much cheaper spices in bulk at places like Rainbow Grocery and the \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfherb.com/\">San Francisco Herb Co\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Most important, he stressed, was soaking your tapioca pearls in very cold water overnight, and gently stirring them throughout the cooking process, all to avoid their clinging together into gummy sludge, something that's definitely \"not sexy!\", his biggest put-down for bad desserts (or bad behavior). The Turkish-born Pura, who calls Hawaii his most favorite place on the planet (his dog is named Maui), suggests topping the finished coconut pudding (well, almost finished--just as he started to spoon it into the tall glass display dish, he realized he'd left out the sugar--\"Awkward!\") with a mixture of diced mango, papaya and roasted coconut shards. Cool, sweet, easy, with a hint of down-home nostalgia dressed with contemporary Pacific Rim touches--it's a perfect dish for Sunset-style summer living here in California. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Coconut Tapioca Pudding with Papaya and Mango\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Recipe courtesy of Yigit Pura. Used by permission. \u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>1/2 cup tapioca pearls\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 1/2 cups plus 1/2 cup milk\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 vanilla bean\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 stalk lemongrass\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Fresh ginger root, about a 3-inch piece\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 cup plus 1 tablespoon sugar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>One 14-ounce can coconut milk\u003c/li>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Fruit For Garnish:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>1/8 cup ripe mango cubes\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/8 cup ripe papaya cubes\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Toasted large-flaked coconut\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003col>\n\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>Cover small tapioca pearls with 4 cups cold water and soak overnight. Don't stir or disturb.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Bring the 2 1/2 cups milk to a boil. Meanwhile, scrape the vanilla seeds from the pod. Crush the lemongrass stalk to release the natural flavors. Peel the fresh ginger and cut into 2 tablespoons of rings. Place all of this into the hot milk and leave covered for half hour to steep, off the heat.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Strain the milk infusion, discarding solids, and add the remaining 1/2 cup of milk. Add the sugar and bring back to a boil.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Strain the tapioca pearls, discarding water. Gently place pearls into the hot milk. Gently stir with a rubber spatula and cook on medium heat for 3 to 5 minutes, stirring occasionally to avoid lumps. The tapioca is cooked once it looks translucent.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Gently warm up the coconut milk separately and stir in at the end of cooking. Transfer to a container, place plastic on the top to prevent a skin forming and refrigerate until cool, ideally overnight.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Once the pudding is cooled it will naturally set, thanks to the tapioca starch. Spoon into serving bowls and garnish with the fruits and the toasted coconut.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Modern Day Food Foraging Comes to San Francisco",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_63115\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/RS5026_DSCN4675.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/RS5026_DSCN4675-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"A display of wild foods gathered by Chef Kory Stewart and foraging expert Connie Green.\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" class=\"size-large wp-image-63115\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A display of wild foods gathered by Chef Kory Stewart and foraging expert Connie Green.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There are so many food crazes these days it’s really hard to keep up. Food trucks, pop-up restaurants, kombucha, Sriracha, low-carb meal plans, gluten-free diets. I get dizzy just thinking about it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Add food foraging to the list. It’s a popular culinary trend, taking us back to our hunter-gatherer roots. What does it mean? Simple. You go out into the wild, find edibles in Mother Nature’s pantry and whip up a meal. It’s the closest a consumer can get to their ancestors and the abundance of local, sustainable dishes surrounding them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Foraging for your next meal isn’t anything new. Cave people did it. Animals in the nature still do it. And now, droves of hungry foodies can partake in it too. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This trend is coming to a table and television near you. On a recent episode of No Reservations, \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/Bourdain\">Anthony Bourdain\u003c/a> held a competition where chefs from around the world were tasked with getting back to their roots, literally, and cooking a whole meal. There was foraging, fishing, hunting ducks with big nets and tromping through the Japanese woods.\u003c/p>\n\u003cdiv class=\"single-video\">\u003ciframe frameborder=\"0\" width=\"560\" height=\"315\" src=\"http://www.dailymotion.com/embed/video/xqx84t\">\u003c/iframe>\u003c/div>\n\u003cp>You don’t need to fly to Japan to experience this type of primitive dining. Locally, Americano’s Executive Chef Kory Stewart did the same Thursday night, June 6 during the third annual Wild Foods Dinner at the Hotel Vitale located on the Embarcadero in San Francisco. He and food foraging expert \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/11/20/the-california-report-the-fine-art-of-foraging/\">Connie Green\u003c/a>, author of \u003ca href=\"http://www.thewildtable.net/about.html\" title=\"The Wild Table\">The Wild Table\u003c/a>, took a food-gathering excursion out to the Sierra Nevada for this experiment. \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>“Wild foods are special because they grow and proliferate with little human intervention,” Stewart said. “The range of flavors and textures found in many of these foods cannot be found elsewhere.”\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Indeed, over 50 guests dined on a unique six-course meal that was shaped largely by the bounty they located in nature. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_63116\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/RS5027_DSCN4686.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/RS5027_DSCN4686-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"The six course menu included such items as roasted venison with fiddlehead fern, local king salmon with nettle and huitlacoche and candy cap mushroom S’mores.\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" class=\"size-large wp-image-63116\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The six course menu included such items as roasted venison with fiddlehead fern, local king salmon with nettle and huitlacoche and candy cap mushroom S’mores.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“We found porcinis, a variety of miner’s lettuce,” Stewart said. “We also found sheep sorrel, elderflower and a nice amount of fir tips for a cocktail we are serving.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_63117\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/RS5028_DSCN4673.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/RS5028_DSCN4673.jpg\" alt=\"A display of the various edibles Stewart found in the Sierra Nevada. From bottom to top: a bowl of wild pecans, elderberries, Sierra porcinis and huitlacoche which he describes as corn infected with fungus.\" width=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-63117\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A display of the various edibles Stewart found in the Sierra Nevada. From bottom to top: a bowl of wild pecans, elderberries, Sierra porcinis and huitlacoche which he describes as corn infected with fungus.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Putting blind faith in their chef, patrons knew little of the menu ahead of time, but didn’t seem to mind.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_63118\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/RS5029_DSCN4722.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/RS5029_DSCN4722-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"Guests paid $85 per person to eat and drink foods found in nature.\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" class=\"size-large wp-image-63118\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Guests paid $85 per person to eat and drink foods found in nature.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The night started off with a refreshing cucumber gin sour, flavored with Douglas fir from the forest. Yes, the same Douglas fir that invades your home every December, harboring Christmas presents for the kiddies. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_63119\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/RS5030_DSCN4690.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/RS5030_DSCN4690-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"Douglas fir and Cucumber Gin Sours kicked off the evening on the Hotel Vitale Terrace.\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" class=\"size-large wp-image-63119\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Douglas fir and Cucumber Gin Sours kicked off the evening on the Hotel Vitale Terrace.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Guests slurped fresh oysters on the half shell and indulged in grilled wild boar meatballs served by white-gloved waiters. Stewart himself poured the libations and helped serve the hungry guests. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_63120\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/RS5031_DSCN4701.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/RS5031_DSCN4701-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"Oysters on a half shell with grilled ramp mignonette were a hit with this group.\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" class=\"size-large wp-image-63120\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Oysters on a half shell with grilled ramp mignonette were a hit with this group.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_63121\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/RS5032_DSCN4702.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/RS5032_DSCN4702-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"Grilled wild boar meatballs and morels with green harissa couldn't come out fast enough.\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" class=\"size-large wp-image-63121\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Grilled wild boar meatballs and morels with green harissa couldn't come out fast enough.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“It’s a rarity to see a chef serving the food himself, but Kory is that type of person. He’s very down to earth,” said Green, his foraging companion. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_63122\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/RS5033_DSCN4687.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/RS5033_DSCN4687.jpg\" alt=\"Stewart serving refreshing glasses of cucumber gin sours on a beautiful San Francisco evening.\" width=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-63122\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Stewart serving refreshing glasses of cucumber gin sours on a beautiful San Francisco evening.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>That was a just a taste of what these adventurous food enthusiasts were in for. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_63123\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/RS5034_DSCN4699.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/RS5034_DSCN4699-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"From left to right: Josh Perez, Chef de Cuisine, Connie Green, Kory Stewart, Executive Chef and local producer, Ames Morison.\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" class=\"size-large wp-image-63123\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">From left to right: Josh Perez, Chef de Cuisine, Connie Green, Kory Stewart, Executive Chef and local producer, Ames Morison.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Patrons sat at tables in the main dining room and were treated to an amuse of fresh halibut crudo...Delectable.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_63124\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1280px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/RS5035_DSCN4724.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/RS5035_DSCN4724.jpg\" alt=\"Halibut Crudo\" width=\"1280\" height=\"960\" class=\"size-full wp-image-63124\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Halibut Crudo\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“I’ve always wanted to try something like this,” Robert Graves, a first time Wild Foods guest said. \"I haven’t been disappointed.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Each dish was carefully paired with organic wines courtesy of Medlock Ames, a local winery in nearby Bell Mountain. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_63125\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/RS5036_DSCN4661.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/RS5036_DSCN4661-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"Medlock Ames Wine was served at the Wild Foods Dinner\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" class=\"size-large wp-image-63125\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Medlock Ames Wine was served at the Wild Foods Dinner\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The dishes leading up to the main course included everything from smoked mackerel escabeche with grilled octopus, seared sea scallops and watercress to house-made ricotta tortellini. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_63126\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 360px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/RS5037_Wild_Foods_Dinner_03.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/RS5037_Wild_Foods_Dinner_03.jpg\" alt=\"House-made ricotta tortellini with Sierra porcini, wild pecans and honey\" width=\"360\" height=\"270\" class=\"size-full wp-image-63126\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">House-made ricotta tortellini with Sierra porcini, wild pecans and honey\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The two main courses were certainly worth the price of admission: local king salmon with nettle and huitlacoche dumplings, fried seabeans and fresh corn polenta, followed by roasted venison with fiddlehead fern, elderberry mustard, morels and Douglas fir jus. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_63127\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1280px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/RS5038_DSCN4667.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/RS5038_DSCN4667.jpg\" alt=\"Local, fresh king Salmon\" width=\"1280\" height=\"960\" class=\"size-full wp-image-63127\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Local, fresh king Salmon\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_63128\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 360px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/RS5039_Wild_Foods_Dinner_04.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/RS5039_Wild_Foods_Dinner_04.jpg\" alt=\"Vension, also known as deer, is very thin and should never be overcooked, Stewart said. If you do, it turns into jerky. Photo: Sara Bloomberg\" width=\"360\" height=\"270\" class=\"size-full wp-image-63128\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Vension, also known as deer, is very thin and should never be overcooked, Stewart said. If you do, it turns into jerky. Photo: Sara Bloomberg\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Dinner wouldn’t be complete without Stewart’s famous candy cap mushroom S’mores with roasted white chocolate. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_63258\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 360px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/Wild_Foods_Dinner_05.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/Wild_Foods_Dinner_05.jpg\" alt=\"Candy cap mushroom S'mores with roasted white chocolate. Photo: Sara Bloomberg\" width=\"360\" height=\"270\" class=\"size-full wp-image-63258\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Candy cap mushroom S'mores with roasted white chocolate.\u003cbr>Photo: Sara Bloomberg\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>All in all, the dinner was a huge success and Stewart looks forward to many more wild food events. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This certainly wasn't Stewart's first time gathering food in the wilderness. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>His love of wild foods began when he was only 9 years old growing up on Whidbey Island, 30 miles north of Seattle. He, his father and grandfather would find clams, mussel and wild oysters everywhere. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I remember at super low tides we would pick Dungeness crab out of knee-deep water” he recalled. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It wasn’t just seafood. Stewart would pick wild blackberries, filling up 5 gallon buckets to bring to his grandmother who made pies from the bounty. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Despite San Francisco’s rich culinary tradition, it isn’t quite as abundant in edible vegetation as Washington. Nowdays, he has to work a little harder to pursue food in the wild, although as Stewart says, “It’s all worth it.” \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Gina Scialabba attended the third annual Wild Foods Dinner at the Hotel Vitale. Americano’s Executive Chef Kory Stewart and food foraging expert Connie Green, author of \"The Wild Table\" prepared a unique six-course meal that was shaped largely by the bounty they located in nature. ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_63115\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/RS5026_DSCN4675.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/RS5026_DSCN4675-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"A display of wild foods gathered by Chef Kory Stewart and foraging expert Connie Green.\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" class=\"size-large wp-image-63115\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A display of wild foods gathered by Chef Kory Stewart and foraging expert Connie Green.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There are so many food crazes these days it’s really hard to keep up. Food trucks, pop-up restaurants, kombucha, Sriracha, low-carb meal plans, gluten-free diets. I get dizzy just thinking about it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Add food foraging to the list. It’s a popular culinary trend, taking us back to our hunter-gatherer roots. What does it mean? Simple. You go out into the wild, find edibles in Mother Nature’s pantry and whip up a meal. It’s the closest a consumer can get to their ancestors and the abundance of local, sustainable dishes surrounding them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Foraging for your next meal isn’t anything new. Cave people did it. Animals in the nature still do it. And now, droves of hungry foodies can partake in it too. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This trend is coming to a table and television near you. On a recent episode of No Reservations, \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/Bourdain\">Anthony Bourdain\u003c/a> held a competition where chefs from around the world were tasked with getting back to their roots, literally, and cooking a whole meal. There was foraging, fishing, hunting ducks with big nets and tromping through the Japanese woods.\u003c/p>\n\u003cdiv class=\"single-video\">\u003ciframe frameborder=\"0\" width=\"560\" height=\"315\" src=\"http://www.dailymotion.com/embed/video/xqx84t\">\u003c/iframe>\u003c/div>\n\u003cp>You don’t need to fly to Japan to experience this type of primitive dining. Locally, Americano’s Executive Chef Kory Stewart did the same Thursday night, June 6 during the third annual Wild Foods Dinner at the Hotel Vitale located on the Embarcadero in San Francisco. He and food foraging expert \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/11/20/the-california-report-the-fine-art-of-foraging/\">Connie Green\u003c/a>, author of \u003ca href=\"http://www.thewildtable.net/about.html\" title=\"The Wild Table\">The Wild Table\u003c/a>, took a food-gathering excursion out to the Sierra Nevada for this experiment. \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>“Wild foods are special because they grow and proliferate with little human intervention,” Stewart said. “The range of flavors and textures found in many of these foods cannot be found elsewhere.”\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Indeed, over 50 guests dined on a unique six-course meal that was shaped largely by the bounty they located in nature. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_63116\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/RS5027_DSCN4686.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/RS5027_DSCN4686-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"The six course menu included such items as roasted venison with fiddlehead fern, local king salmon with nettle and huitlacoche and candy cap mushroom S’mores.\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" class=\"size-large wp-image-63116\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The six course menu included such items as roasted venison with fiddlehead fern, local king salmon with nettle and huitlacoche and candy cap mushroom S’mores.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“We found porcinis, a variety of miner’s lettuce,” Stewart said. “We also found sheep sorrel, elderflower and a nice amount of fir tips for a cocktail we are serving.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_63117\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/RS5028_DSCN4673.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/RS5028_DSCN4673.jpg\" alt=\"A display of the various edibles Stewart found in the Sierra Nevada. From bottom to top: a bowl of wild pecans, elderberries, Sierra porcinis and huitlacoche which he describes as corn infected with fungus.\" width=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-63117\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A display of the various edibles Stewart found in the Sierra Nevada. From bottom to top: a bowl of wild pecans, elderberries, Sierra porcinis and huitlacoche which he describes as corn infected with fungus.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Putting blind faith in their chef, patrons knew little of the menu ahead of time, but didn’t seem to mind.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_63118\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/RS5029_DSCN4722.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/RS5029_DSCN4722-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"Guests paid $85 per person to eat and drink foods found in nature.\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" class=\"size-large wp-image-63118\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Guests paid $85 per person to eat and drink foods found in nature.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The night started off with a refreshing cucumber gin sour, flavored with Douglas fir from the forest. Yes, the same Douglas fir that invades your home every December, harboring Christmas presents for the kiddies. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_63119\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/RS5030_DSCN4690.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/RS5030_DSCN4690-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"Douglas fir and Cucumber Gin Sours kicked off the evening on the Hotel Vitale Terrace.\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" class=\"size-large wp-image-63119\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Douglas fir and Cucumber Gin Sours kicked off the evening on the Hotel Vitale Terrace.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Guests slurped fresh oysters on the half shell and indulged in grilled wild boar meatballs served by white-gloved waiters. Stewart himself poured the libations and helped serve the hungry guests. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_63120\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/RS5031_DSCN4701.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/RS5031_DSCN4701-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"Oysters on a half shell with grilled ramp mignonette were a hit with this group.\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" class=\"size-large wp-image-63120\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Oysters on a half shell with grilled ramp mignonette were a hit with this group.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_63121\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/RS5032_DSCN4702.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/RS5032_DSCN4702-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"Grilled wild boar meatballs and morels with green harissa couldn't come out fast enough.\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" class=\"size-large wp-image-63121\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Grilled wild boar meatballs and morels with green harissa couldn't come out fast enough.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“It’s a rarity to see a chef serving the food himself, but Kory is that type of person. He’s very down to earth,” said Green, his foraging companion. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_63122\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/RS5033_DSCN4687.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/RS5033_DSCN4687.jpg\" alt=\"Stewart serving refreshing glasses of cucumber gin sours on a beautiful San Francisco evening.\" width=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-63122\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Stewart serving refreshing glasses of cucumber gin sours on a beautiful San Francisco evening.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>That was a just a taste of what these adventurous food enthusiasts were in for. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_63123\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/RS5034_DSCN4699.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/RS5034_DSCN4699-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"From left to right: Josh Perez, Chef de Cuisine, Connie Green, Kory Stewart, Executive Chef and local producer, Ames Morison.\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" class=\"size-large wp-image-63123\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">From left to right: Josh Perez, Chef de Cuisine, Connie Green, Kory Stewart, Executive Chef and local producer, Ames Morison.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Patrons sat at tables in the main dining room and were treated to an amuse of fresh halibut crudo...Delectable.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_63124\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1280px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/RS5035_DSCN4724.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/RS5035_DSCN4724.jpg\" alt=\"Halibut Crudo\" width=\"1280\" height=\"960\" class=\"size-full wp-image-63124\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Halibut Crudo\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“I’ve always wanted to try something like this,” Robert Graves, a first time Wild Foods guest said. \"I haven’t been disappointed.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Each dish was carefully paired with organic wines courtesy of Medlock Ames, a local winery in nearby Bell Mountain. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_63125\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/RS5036_DSCN4661.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/RS5036_DSCN4661-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"Medlock Ames Wine was served at the Wild Foods Dinner\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" class=\"size-large wp-image-63125\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Medlock Ames Wine was served at the Wild Foods Dinner\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The dishes leading up to the main course included everything from smoked mackerel escabeche with grilled octopus, seared sea scallops and watercress to house-made ricotta tortellini. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_63126\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 360px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/RS5037_Wild_Foods_Dinner_03.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/RS5037_Wild_Foods_Dinner_03.jpg\" alt=\"House-made ricotta tortellini with Sierra porcini, wild pecans and honey\" width=\"360\" height=\"270\" class=\"size-full wp-image-63126\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">House-made ricotta tortellini with Sierra porcini, wild pecans and honey\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The two main courses were certainly worth the price of admission: local king salmon with nettle and huitlacoche dumplings, fried seabeans and fresh corn polenta, followed by roasted venison with fiddlehead fern, elderberry mustard, morels and Douglas fir jus. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_63127\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1280px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/RS5038_DSCN4667.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/RS5038_DSCN4667.jpg\" alt=\"Local, fresh king Salmon\" width=\"1280\" height=\"960\" class=\"size-full wp-image-63127\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Local, fresh king Salmon\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_63128\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 360px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/RS5039_Wild_Foods_Dinner_04.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/RS5039_Wild_Foods_Dinner_04.jpg\" alt=\"Vension, also known as deer, is very thin and should never be overcooked, Stewart said. If you do, it turns into jerky. Photo: Sara Bloomberg\" width=\"360\" height=\"270\" class=\"size-full wp-image-63128\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Vension, also known as deer, is very thin and should never be overcooked, Stewart said. If you do, it turns into jerky. Photo: Sara Bloomberg\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Dinner wouldn’t be complete without Stewart’s famous candy cap mushroom S’mores with roasted white chocolate. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_63258\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 360px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/Wild_Foods_Dinner_05.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/Wild_Foods_Dinner_05.jpg\" alt=\"Candy cap mushroom S'mores with roasted white chocolate. Photo: Sara Bloomberg\" width=\"360\" height=\"270\" class=\"size-full wp-image-63258\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Candy cap mushroom S'mores with roasted white chocolate.\u003cbr>Photo: Sara Bloomberg\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>All in all, the dinner was a huge success and Stewart looks forward to many more wild food events. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This certainly wasn't Stewart's first time gathering food in the wilderness. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>His love of wild foods began when he was only 9 years old growing up on Whidbey Island, 30 miles north of Seattle. He, his father and grandfather would find clams, mussel and wild oysters everywhere. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I remember at super low tides we would pick Dungeness crab out of knee-deep water” he recalled. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It wasn’t just seafood. Stewart would pick wild blackberries, filling up 5 gallon buckets to bring to his grandmother who made pies from the bounty. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Despite San Francisco’s rich culinary tradition, it isn’t quite as abundant in edible vegetation as Washington. Nowdays, he has to work a little harder to pursue food in the wild, although as Stewart says, “It’s all worth it.” \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Antonio Lee: The Chef, The Legend, The Grandpa",
"title": "Antonio Lee: The Chef, The Legend, The Grandpa",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/in-america.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/in-america.jpg\" alt=\"Antonio Lee, Jade East, Long Island (circa 1965)\" width=\"1000\" height=\"732\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-62972\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I think about my culinary influences, there is a certain chef that comes to mind first: \u003cstrong>Antonio Lee\u003c/strong>. The man, the legend, my grandpa. My mother’s father, known to us as \u003cem>Gong Gong\u003c/em>, worked as a cook for a number of years in New York’s Chinatown, and also opened up a restaurant of his own called \u003cstrong>Jade East\u003c/strong>, out on Long Island circa 1965.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/chef-lee.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/chef-lee.jpg\" alt=\"On the right: Antonio Lee, like a boss\" width=\"555\" height=\"700\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-62966\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Growing up, I didn’t know all the details, but what I did know was, my grandpa must have been a big deal (or a Chinese mafioso) because everyone in town knew him. We always got the star treatment when we dined out in Chinatown.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Gong Gong shaped many of my earliest food memories. He introduced me to the gold standard of \u003cem>char siu bao\u003c/em> at an early age. While my older brother was in school (sucka), Gong Gong and I would hold court at our booth at \u003ca href=\"http://lickmyspoon.com/restaurants/dim-sum-love/\">Hop Sing\u003c/a>. Chinese newspaper in hand, he would sip on his coffee with cream while I tried to wrap my two-year-old mind around the layered complexity of the barbecued pork bun in my chubby little fist. It was savory, it was sweet, it was meaty, yet it was a bun. What was this sorcery? I still don’t know.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While my parents worked, Gong Gong made us dinner. The things that came out of that tiny New York apartment kitchen would astound. Steak broiled in a toaster oven? You betcha. Soups, whole fish, stir frys, fried chicken, short ribs, lobster in XO sauce…you name it, all made with pretty much one pot, a cleaver, a wok, and a rice cooker. There was no sous vide immersion circulator, no Vitamix, no fancy gadgets or expensive cookware. There was barely a wooden spoon in that kitchen. Come to think of it, I don’t think he even had a wooden spoon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On holidays and special occasions, my grandma, \u003cem>Paw Paw\u003c/em>, would be in charge of special dishes like deep fried glutinous rice dumplings (\u003cem>ham sui gok\u003c/em>), \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/10/13/white-turnip-pudding-cake-lo-bok-go/\">turnip cake\u003c/a> (\u003cem>lo bok go\u003c/em>), and sticky rice wrapped in lotus leaves (\u003cem>jong\u003c/em>), but certain dishes fell firmly in Gong Gong’s territory. Like his famous crispy \u003cstrong>Chinese Fried Chicken\u003c/strong> (\u003cem>ja jee gai\u003c/em>).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/Grandpa-Fry-Chicken-005.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/Grandpa-Fry-Chicken-005.jpg\" alt=\"Chinese Fried Chicken\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-62967\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/Grandpa-Fry-Chicken-011.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/Grandpa-Fry-Chicken-011.jpg\" alt=\"Gong Gong making his famous Chinese Fried Chicken\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-62968\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/Grandpa-Fry-Chicken-012.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/Grandpa-Fry-Chicken-012.jpg\" alt=\"Chinese Fried Chicken (Ja Jee Gai)\" width=\"525\" height=\"700\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-62969\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/Grandpa-Fry-Chicken-016.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/Grandpa-Fry-Chicken-016.jpg\" alt=\"Chinese Fried Chicken (Ja Jee Gai)\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-62970\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My grandpa would season that chicken with his secret salt and spice blend and hang it from its neck to dry out for a day by the window, next to his army of orchid plants. By the time that chicken got sick of the view, it would be ready for its hot oil jacuzzi bath. The air-dried skin would crisp up golden and crackly, while the meat stayed juicy and tender. Perfection every time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/BODEGA.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/BODEGA.jpg\" alt=\"Grandpa at his store in Cuba\" width=\"1000\" height=\"811\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-62965\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Gong Gong passed away in April at the ripe old age of 92. While I'm comforted knowing he lived a full life, I am still filled with sadness and regret for not having sooner asked him all the questions I have: \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\nWhat were your favorite parts of life from China to Cuba to Miami to New York City?\u003cbr>\nWhat’s the best meal you ever had?\u003cbr>\nWhat was your signature dish at Jade East?\u003cbr>\nWhere in the world do you wish you had seen?\u003cbr>\nWhat’s the first thing you ever cooked for Paw Paw?\u003cbr>\nWhat was my mom like as a child?\u003cbr>\nWhat exactly do you rub on that fried chicken?\u003cbr>\nWhy are your barbecued short ribs so stupid delicious?\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>My aunt attempted to document grandpa’s crispy fried chicken recipe last year when I was working on a recipe book for my brother’s wedding. There are some holes in it, and the quantities and timing may need tweaking, but I’ll include it anyway as a road map, until I am hopefully able to reproduce it one day (or at least come acceptably close).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Thank you, Gong Gong, for the things you’ve taught me. I hope I can accomplish a fraction of what you’ve done in your lifetime, and fry a chicken you’d be proud of.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/IMG_0184.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/IMG_0184.jpg\" alt=\"That's my g-pa\" width=\"700\" height=\"700\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-62971\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Gong Gong’s Chinese Fried Chicken (Ja Jee Gai)\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>This was one of my grandpa’s famous dishes. The chicken is allowed to air-dry at least 8 hours to ensure an extra crispy, crackling, golden skin. This recipe is a work in progress, as I’m still trying to sleuth out parts of the recipe, but for now, I wanted to post this as a road map. Happy navigating!\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n2 lb whole chicken\u003cbr>\n2 teaspoons maltose syrup (Yu Yee brand)\u003cbr>\n2 tablespoons Chinese black vinegar (\u003ca href=\"http://www.asiansupermarket365.com/Great-Wall-Tian-Jin-Vinegar-p/hgwvylj.htm\">Great Wall\u003c/a> brand)\u003cbr>\n2 tablespoons secret 8-spice seasoned salt blend*\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>Clean the chicken, removing any goodies left in the cavity. Rub the cavity of the chicken with the salt blend.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add the maltose syrup and vinegar to the water. Stir until the syrup dissolves.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Hold the chicken by the neck over the pot of hot water. Using a ladle, shower the chicken with hot water a spoonful at a time. Do this about 15-20 times until the chicken takes on a golden tan.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Hang the chicken by the neck by the window to air dry for at least 8 hours, preferably overnight. Don’t worry, the chicken will not spoil in room temperature for the extended period of time because the cavity has been cured with salt. (If this makes you nervous, you can also try placing the chicken on a wire rack and drying it out in the fridge). This process will prevent the oil from spattering when you deep fry the chicken.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>When you are ready to fry the chicken, fill a large wok three quarters of the way full with vegetable oil. Turn the flame up high to heat up the oil. Once the oil is very hot, place the chicken breast down into the wok and cook for 10 minutes. Three quarters of the chicken should be submerged in the oil. As the breast is being cooked, use a ladle to baste the top of the chicken with the hot oil.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Carefully turn the chicken so that the breast faces up. Cook for 5 minutes. Baste the breast of the chicken with hot oil as the back is being cooked.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Lift the chicken out of the wok and place on a paper towel-lined tray to absorb the excess oil. Serve with a little dish of that special seasoned salt for dipping.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>* I’m told that Gong Gong’s proprietary seasoned salt is a blend of 8 spices. Essentially, Chinese five spice plus a few extra. Here are some spices I’d start playing with: black pepper, white pepper, Sichuan pepper, cinnamon, star anise, fennel seed, clove, ginger, nutmeg, orange peel…\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once you’ve nailed your spice blend, make the seasoned salt by dry-roasting Kosher salt with your ground spices, stirring and shaking the pan until the spices are toasted and fragrant.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "A tribute to Stephanie Hua's grandfather...and the recipe for his famous crispy, crackling skinned Chinese Fried Chicken (Ja Jee Gai).",
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"description": "A tribute to Stephanie Hua's grandfather...and the recipe for his famous crispy, crackling skinned Chinese Fried Chicken (Ja Jee Gai).",
"title": "Antonio Lee: The Chef, The Legend, The Grandpa | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/in-america.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/in-america.jpg\" alt=\"Antonio Lee, Jade East, Long Island (circa 1965)\" width=\"1000\" height=\"732\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-62972\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I think about my culinary influences, there is a certain chef that comes to mind first: \u003cstrong>Antonio Lee\u003c/strong>. The man, the legend, my grandpa. My mother’s father, known to us as \u003cem>Gong Gong\u003c/em>, worked as a cook for a number of years in New York’s Chinatown, and also opened up a restaurant of his own called \u003cstrong>Jade East\u003c/strong>, out on Long Island circa 1965.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/chef-lee.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/chef-lee.jpg\" alt=\"On the right: Antonio Lee, like a boss\" width=\"555\" height=\"700\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-62966\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Growing up, I didn’t know all the details, but what I did know was, my grandpa must have been a big deal (or a Chinese mafioso) because everyone in town knew him. We always got the star treatment when we dined out in Chinatown.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Gong Gong shaped many of my earliest food memories. He introduced me to the gold standard of \u003cem>char siu bao\u003c/em> at an early age. While my older brother was in school (sucka), Gong Gong and I would hold court at our booth at \u003ca href=\"http://lickmyspoon.com/restaurants/dim-sum-love/\">Hop Sing\u003c/a>. Chinese newspaper in hand, he would sip on his coffee with cream while I tried to wrap my two-year-old mind around the layered complexity of the barbecued pork bun in my chubby little fist. It was savory, it was sweet, it was meaty, yet it was a bun. What was this sorcery? I still don’t know.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While my parents worked, Gong Gong made us dinner. The things that came out of that tiny New York apartment kitchen would astound. Steak broiled in a toaster oven? You betcha. Soups, whole fish, stir frys, fried chicken, short ribs, lobster in XO sauce…you name it, all made with pretty much one pot, a cleaver, a wok, and a rice cooker. There was no sous vide immersion circulator, no Vitamix, no fancy gadgets or expensive cookware. There was barely a wooden spoon in that kitchen. Come to think of it, I don’t think he even had a wooden spoon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On holidays and special occasions, my grandma, \u003cem>Paw Paw\u003c/em>, would be in charge of special dishes like deep fried glutinous rice dumplings (\u003cem>ham sui gok\u003c/em>), \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/10/13/white-turnip-pudding-cake-lo-bok-go/\">turnip cake\u003c/a> (\u003cem>lo bok go\u003c/em>), and sticky rice wrapped in lotus leaves (\u003cem>jong\u003c/em>), but certain dishes fell firmly in Gong Gong’s territory. Like his famous crispy \u003cstrong>Chinese Fried Chicken\u003c/strong> (\u003cem>ja jee gai\u003c/em>).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/Grandpa-Fry-Chicken-005.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/Grandpa-Fry-Chicken-005.jpg\" alt=\"Chinese Fried Chicken\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-62967\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/Grandpa-Fry-Chicken-011.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/Grandpa-Fry-Chicken-011.jpg\" alt=\"Gong Gong making his famous Chinese Fried Chicken\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-62968\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/Grandpa-Fry-Chicken-012.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/Grandpa-Fry-Chicken-012.jpg\" alt=\"Chinese Fried Chicken (Ja Jee Gai)\" width=\"525\" height=\"700\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-62969\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/Grandpa-Fry-Chicken-016.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/Grandpa-Fry-Chicken-016.jpg\" alt=\"Chinese Fried Chicken (Ja Jee Gai)\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-62970\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My grandpa would season that chicken with his secret salt and spice blend and hang it from its neck to dry out for a day by the window, next to his army of orchid plants. By the time that chicken got sick of the view, it would be ready for its hot oil jacuzzi bath. The air-dried skin would crisp up golden and crackly, while the meat stayed juicy and tender. Perfection every time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/BODEGA.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/BODEGA.jpg\" alt=\"Grandpa at his store in Cuba\" width=\"1000\" height=\"811\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-62965\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Gong Gong passed away in April at the ripe old age of 92. While I'm comforted knowing he lived a full life, I am still filled with sadness and regret for not having sooner asked him all the questions I have: \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\nWhat were your favorite parts of life from China to Cuba to Miami to New York City?\u003cbr>\nWhat’s the best meal you ever had?\u003cbr>\nWhat was your signature dish at Jade East?\u003cbr>\nWhere in the world do you wish you had seen?\u003cbr>\nWhat’s the first thing you ever cooked for Paw Paw?\u003cbr>\nWhat was my mom like as a child?\u003cbr>\nWhat exactly do you rub on that fried chicken?\u003cbr>\nWhy are your barbecued short ribs so stupid delicious?\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>My aunt attempted to document grandpa’s crispy fried chicken recipe last year when I was working on a recipe book for my brother’s wedding. There are some holes in it, and the quantities and timing may need tweaking, but I’ll include it anyway as a road map, until I am hopefully able to reproduce it one day (or at least come acceptably close).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Thank you, Gong Gong, for the things you’ve taught me. I hope I can accomplish a fraction of what you’ve done in your lifetime, and fry a chicken you’d be proud of.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/IMG_0184.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/IMG_0184.jpg\" alt=\"That's my g-pa\" width=\"700\" height=\"700\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-62971\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Gong Gong’s Chinese Fried Chicken (Ja Jee Gai)\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>This was one of my grandpa’s famous dishes. The chicken is allowed to air-dry at least 8 hours to ensure an extra crispy, crackling, golden skin. This recipe is a work in progress, as I’m still trying to sleuth out parts of the recipe, but for now, I wanted to post this as a road map. Happy navigating!\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n2 lb whole chicken\u003cbr>\n2 teaspoons maltose syrup (Yu Yee brand)\u003cbr>\n2 tablespoons Chinese black vinegar (\u003ca href=\"http://www.asiansupermarket365.com/Great-Wall-Tian-Jin-Vinegar-p/hgwvylj.htm\">Great Wall\u003c/a> brand)\u003cbr>\n2 tablespoons secret 8-spice seasoned salt blend*\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>Clean the chicken, removing any goodies left in the cavity. Rub the cavity of the chicken with the salt blend.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add the maltose syrup and vinegar to the water. Stir until the syrup dissolves.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Hold the chicken by the neck over the pot of hot water. Using a ladle, shower the chicken with hot water a spoonful at a time. Do this about 15-20 times until the chicken takes on a golden tan.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Hang the chicken by the neck by the window to air dry for at least 8 hours, preferably overnight. Don’t worry, the chicken will not spoil in room temperature for the extended period of time because the cavity has been cured with salt. (If this makes you nervous, you can also try placing the chicken on a wire rack and drying it out in the fridge). This process will prevent the oil from spattering when you deep fry the chicken.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>When you are ready to fry the chicken, fill a large wok three quarters of the way full with vegetable oil. Turn the flame up high to heat up the oil. Once the oil is very hot, place the chicken breast down into the wok and cook for 10 minutes. Three quarters of the chicken should be submerged in the oil. As the breast is being cooked, use a ladle to baste the top of the chicken with the hot oil.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Carefully turn the chicken so that the breast faces up. Cook for 5 minutes. Baste the breast of the chicken with hot oil as the back is being cooked.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Lift the chicken out of the wok and place on a paper towel-lined tray to absorb the excess oil. Serve with a little dish of that special seasoned salt for dipping.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>* I’m told that Gong Gong’s proprietary seasoned salt is a blend of 8 spices. Essentially, Chinese five spice plus a few extra. Here are some spices I’d start playing with: black pepper, white pepper, Sichuan pepper, cinnamon, star anise, fennel seed, clove, ginger, nutmeg, orange peel…\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once you’ve nailed your spice blend, make the seasoned salt by dry-roasting Kosher salt with your ground spices, stirring and shaking the pan until the spices are toasted and fragrant.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Ben Affleck, Theo Chocolate & Collections Cafe in Seattle ",
"title": "Ben Affleck, Theo Chocolate & Collections Cafe in Seattle ",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_62606\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/benaffleck-joe1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/benaffleck-joe1000.jpg\" alt=\"Theo Chocolate CEO Joe Whinney and actor and Academy Award-winning movie director Ben Affleck inspect cocoa beans in eastern Congo. Photo: Piet Suess\" width=\"1000\" height=\"657\" class=\"size-full wp-image-62606\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Theo Chocolate CEO Joe Whinney and actor and Academy Award-winning movie director Ben Affleck inspect cocoa beans in eastern Congo. Photo: Piet Suess\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>A certain Seattle fair trade chocolate-maker has cozy ties to \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/BenAffleck\">Ben Affleck\u003c/a>. \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ben_Affleck\">Affleck\u003c/a> is known as much for his political activism as he is for his acting, directing, producing and “interesting” reveals on the state of his marriage to Jennifer Garner. More on Affleck and \u003ca href=\"https://www.theochocolate.com/\">Theo Chocolate\u003c/a> in a bit. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_62618\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/Theo-cacao-nibs1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/Theo-cacao-nibs1000.jpg\" alt=\"Cacao nibs from Theo Chocolate. Photo: courtesy of Theo Chocolate\" width=\"1000\" height=\"665\" class=\"size-full wp-image-62618\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cacao nibs from Theo Chocolate. Photo: courtesy of Theo Chocolate\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>During the Bay Area’s first dot-com, dot-gone boom in the late Nineties, I used to visit Seattle a few times a year for event work, often squeezing in a day or more with my family tribe up there. When my last box of pens, light-up balls and other dot-com collateral was safely shipped back to Silicon Valley, I’d hightail it to the Seattle ‘burb of Mukilteo, which looks over the Puget Sound, to rest and hang with my young cousins. The routine at my aunt and uncle’s home revolved around delicious home cookouts that reflected the local bounty—things like \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/recipes/article/Fish-walk-the-plank-for-a-true-tribal-taste-2810825.php\">planked salmon\u003c/a> (a fish that, ironically, my Uncle “Kiwi” avoids, after decades of professional sea fishing) and crab with some fresh, seasonal vegetables. \u003ca href=\"http://redhook.com/\">Red Hook\u003c/a> beer, made locally since 1981, was the house beverage of choice. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There were restaurant adventures, too, mainly to family-friendly Thai or Mexican joints. Aunt Kelly, who had worked in the hospitality biz, told me all about chef \u003ca href=\"http://tomdouglas.com/\">Tom Douglas\u003c/a> as we noshed at his \u003ca href=\"http://tomdouglas.com/index.php?page=dahlia-lounge\">Dahlia Lounge\u003c/a>--even today, Douglas remains a prominent Seattle chef and restaurateur, cookbook author, spice rub line and all. Once this branch of my family moved to New Zealand, where my uncle is from, the frequency of my Seattle trips tapered off...almost completely. I was therefore very excited to return to Seattle recently to explore and eat. While I did find myself pining for folks who now live on the other side of the world, the city was still its welcoming and occasionally drizzly self. Here are food-centric spots that caught my attention:\u003c/p>\n\u003ch1>Theo Chocolate\u003c/h1>\n\u003cp>Ben Affleck is working with Theo Chocolate to create some rather good chocolate bars, via the \u003ca href=\"http://www.easterncongo.org/\">Eastern Congo Initiative\u003c/a> (ECI), which aims to help farmers in Africa's Eastern Congo. Affleck founded ECI and took a hands-on approach and inspected cocoa beans with Theo Chocolate CEO Joe Whinney. The Theo tour in the fun and funky Fremont neighborhood is a must-do and tour guests get discounted pricing on many sweet treats in the retail space. Sample, see, smell, and learn about chocolate in a historic 28,000-square-foot brick factory that in recent years housed the Red Hook Brewery and up until 1941 was home to the city’s electric trolley fleet. I liked the set up of the color-coded, hour-long tour, which made for an easy-to-follow visit of a site that is gearing up to make nearly six millions pounds of chocolate annually. \u003c/p>\n\u003ch1>Collections Café at Chihuly Garden and Glass\u003c/h1>\n\u003cp>Both the \u003ca href=\"http://www.chihulygardenandglass.com/collections-caf%C3%A9\">Collections Café\u003c/a> and sister restaurant \u003ca href=\"http://www.spaceneedle.com/restaurant/menu.html\">Sky City\u003c/a> show their affinity to Slow Food Seattle through the quality of food preparation and ingredients as well as through the wine and craft beer lists. Sky City offers a memorable meal and spectacular views atop the Space Needle, yet it is spendy and more of a special occasion spot. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_62617\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/Space-Needle-From-Chihuly600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/Space-Needle-From-Chihuly600.jpg\" alt=\"View of Space Needle from Chihuly Garden and Glass Photo: Mary Ladd\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-62617\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">View of Space Needle from Chihuly Garden and Glass\u003cbr>Photo: Mary Ladd\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Downstairs near the Chihuly Garden and Glass space, the daily menu efforts of chefs Ivan Szilak and \u003ca href=\"http://www.spaceneedle.com/skycity-restaurant/meet-the-chef/\">Jeff Maxfield\u003c/a> at Collections Café are gentler on the pocketbook. Dishes served in a space that is directly nestled under the \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/space_needle\">Space Needle\u003c/a> include crispy Beecher’s cheese curds (made nearby) with bourbon tomato jam, salmon shrimp cakes, and the dish that got Szilak his job -- chicken paprikás. Renowned glass artist \u003ca href=\"http://www.chihuly.com/\">Dale Chihuly\u003c/a>, whose world famous glass work and Americana collections can be viewed at the museum, is known to stop in regularly for the burger with red onion jam, bacon, Beecher’s Marco Polo and peppadew aioli. I grew up collecting stickers, dolls, and books—so the arrangement of collections (accordions, corkscrews, radios, etc.) under glass and hanging in the restaurant kept my attention. This is museum food, but the cooking and menu show a flair and variety that is worlds away from limp institutional fare. For summertime, chef Szilak plans on serving a Bourbon Ice Cream Coke Float for a decidedly adult dessert.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_62628\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/Accordions-hang-Collections-Cafe800.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/Accordions-hang-Collections-Cafe800.jpg\" alt=\"Inside Collections Cafe. Photo: Mary Ladd\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" class=\"size-full wp-image-62628\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Inside Collections Cafe. Photo: Mary Ladd\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch1>The Whale Wins\u003c/h1>\n\u003cp>This is the newest restaurant from \u003ca href=\"http://www.thewhalewins.com/about.html\">Renee Erickson\u003c/a>, who has been cooking for over fifteen years and first broke into the culinary scene via her Boat Street Cafe and Kitchen. Renee has received accolades for her growing mini-empire of tasty restaurants that include Narwhal, an oyster mobile food truck. The James Beard Awards have come a-callin’ and Bon Appétit gave Erickson’s The Walrus and the Carpenter oyster restaurant a spot on its “20 Most Important Restaurants” list. One of the adorable factoids about Renee is that her mother, Shirlee, is involved with Renee’s Boat Street Pickles’ production.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_62612\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/Chef-Renee-by-Mary400.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/Chef-Renee-by-Mary400.jpg\" alt=\"Renee Erickson at The Whale Wins. Photo: Mary Ladd\" width=\"300\" class=\"size-full wp-image-62612\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Renee Erickson at The Whale Wins. Photo: Mary Ladd\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_62616\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/Open-Kitchen-Whale-Wins1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/Open-Kitchen-Whale-Wins1000.jpg\" alt=\"The open kitchen at The Whale Wins. Photo: Mary Ladd\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-62616\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The open kitchen at The Whale Wins. Photo: Mary Ladd\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Over lunch at \u003ca href=\"http://www.thewhalewins.com/\">The Whale Wins\u003c/a> that included views of the treasured wood-fired oven, Renee told me this about Seattle’s culinary state: “I feel very lucky to be here. In the past six to seven years, the area has exploded. We have ‘the best of’ wine, cheese makers, cheese, everything.” (Renee’s wild huckleberry Eton mess dessert could easily be a contender for that “best of” list.) \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_62614\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/Eton-Mess-Dessert1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/Eton-Mess-Dessert1000.jpg\" alt=\"Wild Huckleberry Eton Mess Dessert from The Whale Wins. Photo: Mary Ladd\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-62614\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Wild Huckleberry Eton Mess Dessert from The Whale Wins. Photo: Mary Ladd\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch1>Matt’s in the Market\u003c/h1>\n\u003cp>The “fishwiches” from \u003ca href=\"http://www.mattsinthemarket.com/\">Matt’s in the Market\u003c/a> (includes killer views of the Pike Place Market) came highly recommended. Matt’s has expanded the restaurant seating area and serves six sandwiches daily, three with meat. While the falafel with pork cheeks sounded interesting, I was there for the fish. My steelhead fishwich with bacon, guacamole, miniature greens, and spicy aioli on brioche bread was a tad messy but worth the effort. Customers at the bar were enjoying a Mexican Fernet breakfast martini. The room with a view includes jovial staff in an open kitchen, big windows and fresh floral accents.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_62633\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/Matts-Market600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/Matts-Market600.jpg\" alt=\"View from Matt’s in the Market. Photo: Mary Ladd\" width=\"300\" class=\"size-full wp-image-62633\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">View from Matt’s in the Market. Photo: Mary Ladd\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_62634\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/matt-market-fishwich10001.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/matt-market-fishwich10001.jpg\" alt=\"Matt’s in the Market Fishwich. Photo: Mary Ladd\" width=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-62634\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Matt’s in the Market Fishwich. Photo: Mary Ladd\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch1>Lola\u003c/h1>\n\u003cp>Food writer \u003ca href=\"http://cookingwithamy.blogspot.com/\">Amy Sherman\u003c/a> pointed me to the Tom’s Big Breakfast at \u003ca href=\"http://tomdouglas.com/index.php?page=lola\">Lola\u003c/a>, saying, “It might change your life.” Lola is a Tom Douglas restaurant gem in Belltown, the kind of place for a \"power breakfast,” going by how many folks were there in business suits. For the uninitiated, Tom’s Big Breakfast has Mediterranean octopus with Florina peppers, onions, bacon, cilantro, and garlic yogurt. Octopus for breakfast? Sure, especially when it is tender and flavorful octopus cooked to perfection. The Big Breakfast also has eggs served sunny side up with toast. Another morning menu must is the donuts to order, which arrived in a paper bag that was shaken at the table—all the better to coat the donuts with sweet sugar that is only enhanced by seasonal jelly and vanilla mascarpone accoutrements. And yes, this Tom’s Big Breakfast is best shared. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_62620\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/Lola-Big-Breakfast600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/Lola-Big-Breakfast600.jpg\" alt=\"Tom's Big Breakfast at Lola. Photo: Mary Ladd\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-62620\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tom's Big Breakfast at Lola. Photo: Mary Ladd\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_62621\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/Lola-Donuts1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/Lola-Donuts1000.jpg\" alt=\"Donuts at Lola. Photo: Mary Ladd\" width=\"1000\" class=\"size-full wp-image-62621\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Donuts at Lola. Photo: Mary Ladd\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Related Information:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.theochocolate.com/factory-and-tours/\">Theo Chocolate\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Address:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://goo.gl/maps/sFWI7\">Map\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n3400 Phinney Avenue N.\u003cbr>\nSeattle WA 98103\u003cbr>\n(206) 632-5100\u003cbr>\nFactory tours offered daily. Reservations strongly recommended. Book three to four weeks ahead.\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Facebook:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/theochocolate\">Theo Chocolate\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Twitter:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/theochocolate\">@theochocolate\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.chihulygardenandglass.com/collections-caf%C3%A9\">Collections Café at Chihuly Garden and Glass\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Address:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://goo.gl/maps/V30eu\">Map\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n305 Harrison St.\u003cbr>\nSeattle WA 98109\u003cbr>\n(206) 753-4935\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.chihulygardenandglass.com/collections-caf%C3%A9\">Website\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Facebook:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/pages/Chihuly-Garden-and-Glass/256743597681198\">Chihuly Garden and Glass\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Twitter:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/chihulygg\">@chihulygg\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.thewhalewins.com/\">The Whale Wins\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Address:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://goo.gl/maps/DaCz1\">Map\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n3506 Stone Way North\u003cbr>\nSeattle, WA 98103\u003cbr>\n(206) 632-9425\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Facebook:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/TheWhaleWins\">The Whale Wins\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Twitter:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/Thewhalewins\">@Thewhalewins\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.mattsinthemarket.com/\">Matt’s in the Market\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Address:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nPike Place Market\u003cbr>\n94 Pike St #32, Seattle, WA 98101\u003cbr>\n(206) 467-7909\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Facebook:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/mattsinthemarket?fref=ts\">Matt's in the Market\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Twitter:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/mattsinthemkt\">@mattsinthemkt\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://tomdouglas.com/index.php?page=lola\">Lola\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Address:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://goo.gl/maps/zrVrz\">Map\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n2000 4th Ave. Seattle, WA 98121\u003cbr>\n(206) 441-1430\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Facebook:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/tdrestaurants\">Tom Douglas Restaurants\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Twitter:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/TomDouglasCo\">@TomDouglasCo\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Disclosure: Mary’s trip was organized by the Chihuly Garden and Glass at Seattle Center.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Did you know that Ben Affleck is deeply involved with helping Eastern Congo farmers and works with Seattle's Theo Chocolate? Find out more about this chocolate, as well as what to eat at the Collections Café at Chihuly Garden and Glass and other fresh Seattle spots. ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_62606\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/benaffleck-joe1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/benaffleck-joe1000.jpg\" alt=\"Theo Chocolate CEO Joe Whinney and actor and Academy Award-winning movie director Ben Affleck inspect cocoa beans in eastern Congo. Photo: Piet Suess\" width=\"1000\" height=\"657\" class=\"size-full wp-image-62606\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Theo Chocolate CEO Joe Whinney and actor and Academy Award-winning movie director Ben Affleck inspect cocoa beans in eastern Congo. Photo: Piet Suess\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>A certain Seattle fair trade chocolate-maker has cozy ties to \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/BenAffleck\">Ben Affleck\u003c/a>. \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ben_Affleck\">Affleck\u003c/a> is known as much for his political activism as he is for his acting, directing, producing and “interesting” reveals on the state of his marriage to Jennifer Garner. More on Affleck and \u003ca href=\"https://www.theochocolate.com/\">Theo Chocolate\u003c/a> in a bit. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_62618\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/Theo-cacao-nibs1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/Theo-cacao-nibs1000.jpg\" alt=\"Cacao nibs from Theo Chocolate. Photo: courtesy of Theo Chocolate\" width=\"1000\" height=\"665\" class=\"size-full wp-image-62618\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cacao nibs from Theo Chocolate. Photo: courtesy of Theo Chocolate\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>During the Bay Area’s first dot-com, dot-gone boom in the late Nineties, I used to visit Seattle a few times a year for event work, often squeezing in a day or more with my family tribe up there. When my last box of pens, light-up balls and other dot-com collateral was safely shipped back to Silicon Valley, I’d hightail it to the Seattle ‘burb of Mukilteo, which looks over the Puget Sound, to rest and hang with my young cousins. The routine at my aunt and uncle’s home revolved around delicious home cookouts that reflected the local bounty—things like \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/recipes/article/Fish-walk-the-plank-for-a-true-tribal-taste-2810825.php\">planked salmon\u003c/a> (a fish that, ironically, my Uncle “Kiwi” avoids, after decades of professional sea fishing) and crab with some fresh, seasonal vegetables. \u003ca href=\"http://redhook.com/\">Red Hook\u003c/a> beer, made locally since 1981, was the house beverage of choice. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There were restaurant adventures, too, mainly to family-friendly Thai or Mexican joints. Aunt Kelly, who had worked in the hospitality biz, told me all about chef \u003ca href=\"http://tomdouglas.com/\">Tom Douglas\u003c/a> as we noshed at his \u003ca href=\"http://tomdouglas.com/index.php?page=dahlia-lounge\">Dahlia Lounge\u003c/a>--even today, Douglas remains a prominent Seattle chef and restaurateur, cookbook author, spice rub line and all. Once this branch of my family moved to New Zealand, where my uncle is from, the frequency of my Seattle trips tapered off...almost completely. I was therefore very excited to return to Seattle recently to explore and eat. While I did find myself pining for folks who now live on the other side of the world, the city was still its welcoming and occasionally drizzly self. Here are food-centric spots that caught my attention:\u003c/p>\n\u003ch1>Theo Chocolate\u003c/h1>\n\u003cp>Ben Affleck is working with Theo Chocolate to create some rather good chocolate bars, via the \u003ca href=\"http://www.easterncongo.org/\">Eastern Congo Initiative\u003c/a> (ECI), which aims to help farmers in Africa's Eastern Congo. Affleck founded ECI and took a hands-on approach and inspected cocoa beans with Theo Chocolate CEO Joe Whinney. The Theo tour in the fun and funky Fremont neighborhood is a must-do and tour guests get discounted pricing on many sweet treats in the retail space. Sample, see, smell, and learn about chocolate in a historic 28,000-square-foot brick factory that in recent years housed the Red Hook Brewery and up until 1941 was home to the city’s electric trolley fleet. I liked the set up of the color-coded, hour-long tour, which made for an easy-to-follow visit of a site that is gearing up to make nearly six millions pounds of chocolate annually. \u003c/p>\n\u003ch1>Collections Café at Chihuly Garden and Glass\u003c/h1>\n\u003cp>Both the \u003ca href=\"http://www.chihulygardenandglass.com/collections-caf%C3%A9\">Collections Café\u003c/a> and sister restaurant \u003ca href=\"http://www.spaceneedle.com/restaurant/menu.html\">Sky City\u003c/a> show their affinity to Slow Food Seattle through the quality of food preparation and ingredients as well as through the wine and craft beer lists. Sky City offers a memorable meal and spectacular views atop the Space Needle, yet it is spendy and more of a special occasion spot. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_62617\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/Space-Needle-From-Chihuly600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/Space-Needle-From-Chihuly600.jpg\" alt=\"View of Space Needle from Chihuly Garden and Glass Photo: Mary Ladd\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-62617\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">View of Space Needle from Chihuly Garden and Glass\u003cbr>Photo: Mary Ladd\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Downstairs near the Chihuly Garden and Glass space, the daily menu efforts of chefs Ivan Szilak and \u003ca href=\"http://www.spaceneedle.com/skycity-restaurant/meet-the-chef/\">Jeff Maxfield\u003c/a> at Collections Café are gentler on the pocketbook. Dishes served in a space that is directly nestled under the \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/space_needle\">Space Needle\u003c/a> include crispy Beecher’s cheese curds (made nearby) with bourbon tomato jam, salmon shrimp cakes, and the dish that got Szilak his job -- chicken paprikás. Renowned glass artist \u003ca href=\"http://www.chihuly.com/\">Dale Chihuly\u003c/a>, whose world famous glass work and Americana collections can be viewed at the museum, is known to stop in regularly for the burger with red onion jam, bacon, Beecher’s Marco Polo and peppadew aioli. I grew up collecting stickers, dolls, and books—so the arrangement of collections (accordions, corkscrews, radios, etc.) under glass and hanging in the restaurant kept my attention. This is museum food, but the cooking and menu show a flair and variety that is worlds away from limp institutional fare. For summertime, chef Szilak plans on serving a Bourbon Ice Cream Coke Float for a decidedly adult dessert.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_62628\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/Accordions-hang-Collections-Cafe800.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/Accordions-hang-Collections-Cafe800.jpg\" alt=\"Inside Collections Cafe. Photo: Mary Ladd\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" class=\"size-full wp-image-62628\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Inside Collections Cafe. Photo: Mary Ladd\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch1>The Whale Wins\u003c/h1>\n\u003cp>This is the newest restaurant from \u003ca href=\"http://www.thewhalewins.com/about.html\">Renee Erickson\u003c/a>, who has been cooking for over fifteen years and first broke into the culinary scene via her Boat Street Cafe and Kitchen. Renee has received accolades for her growing mini-empire of tasty restaurants that include Narwhal, an oyster mobile food truck. The James Beard Awards have come a-callin’ and Bon Appétit gave Erickson’s The Walrus and the Carpenter oyster restaurant a spot on its “20 Most Important Restaurants” list. One of the adorable factoids about Renee is that her mother, Shirlee, is involved with Renee’s Boat Street Pickles’ production.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_62612\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/Chef-Renee-by-Mary400.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/Chef-Renee-by-Mary400.jpg\" alt=\"Renee Erickson at The Whale Wins. Photo: Mary Ladd\" width=\"300\" class=\"size-full wp-image-62612\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Renee Erickson at The Whale Wins. Photo: Mary Ladd\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_62616\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/Open-Kitchen-Whale-Wins1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/Open-Kitchen-Whale-Wins1000.jpg\" alt=\"The open kitchen at The Whale Wins. Photo: Mary Ladd\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-62616\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The open kitchen at The Whale Wins. Photo: Mary Ladd\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Over lunch at \u003ca href=\"http://www.thewhalewins.com/\">The Whale Wins\u003c/a> that included views of the treasured wood-fired oven, Renee told me this about Seattle’s culinary state: “I feel very lucky to be here. In the past six to seven years, the area has exploded. We have ‘the best of’ wine, cheese makers, cheese, everything.” (Renee’s wild huckleberry Eton mess dessert could easily be a contender for that “best of” list.) \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_62614\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/Eton-Mess-Dessert1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/Eton-Mess-Dessert1000.jpg\" alt=\"Wild Huckleberry Eton Mess Dessert from The Whale Wins. Photo: Mary Ladd\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-62614\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Wild Huckleberry Eton Mess Dessert from The Whale Wins. Photo: Mary Ladd\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch1>Matt’s in the Market\u003c/h1>\n\u003cp>The “fishwiches” from \u003ca href=\"http://www.mattsinthemarket.com/\">Matt’s in the Market\u003c/a> (includes killer views of the Pike Place Market) came highly recommended. Matt’s has expanded the restaurant seating area and serves six sandwiches daily, three with meat. While the falafel with pork cheeks sounded interesting, I was there for the fish. My steelhead fishwich with bacon, guacamole, miniature greens, and spicy aioli on brioche bread was a tad messy but worth the effort. Customers at the bar were enjoying a Mexican Fernet breakfast martini. The room with a view includes jovial staff in an open kitchen, big windows and fresh floral accents.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_62633\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/Matts-Market600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/Matts-Market600.jpg\" alt=\"View from Matt’s in the Market. Photo: Mary Ladd\" width=\"300\" class=\"size-full wp-image-62633\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">View from Matt’s in the Market. Photo: Mary Ladd\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_62634\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/matt-market-fishwich10001.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/matt-market-fishwich10001.jpg\" alt=\"Matt’s in the Market Fishwich. Photo: Mary Ladd\" width=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-62634\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Matt’s in the Market Fishwich. Photo: Mary Ladd\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch1>Lola\u003c/h1>\n\u003cp>Food writer \u003ca href=\"http://cookingwithamy.blogspot.com/\">Amy Sherman\u003c/a> pointed me to the Tom’s Big Breakfast at \u003ca href=\"http://tomdouglas.com/index.php?page=lola\">Lola\u003c/a>, saying, “It might change your life.” Lola is a Tom Douglas restaurant gem in Belltown, the kind of place for a \"power breakfast,” going by how many folks were there in business suits. For the uninitiated, Tom’s Big Breakfast has Mediterranean octopus with Florina peppers, onions, bacon, cilantro, and garlic yogurt. Octopus for breakfast? Sure, especially when it is tender and flavorful octopus cooked to perfection. The Big Breakfast also has eggs served sunny side up with toast. Another morning menu must is the donuts to order, which arrived in a paper bag that was shaken at the table—all the better to coat the donuts with sweet sugar that is only enhanced by seasonal jelly and vanilla mascarpone accoutrements. And yes, this Tom’s Big Breakfast is best shared. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_62620\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/Lola-Big-Breakfast600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/Lola-Big-Breakfast600.jpg\" alt=\"Tom's Big Breakfast at Lola. Photo: Mary Ladd\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-62620\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tom's Big Breakfast at Lola. Photo: Mary Ladd\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_62621\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/Lola-Donuts1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/Lola-Donuts1000.jpg\" alt=\"Donuts at Lola. Photo: Mary Ladd\" width=\"1000\" class=\"size-full wp-image-62621\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Donuts at Lola. Photo: Mary Ladd\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Related Information:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.theochocolate.com/factory-and-tours/\">Theo Chocolate\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Address:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://goo.gl/maps/sFWI7\">Map\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n3400 Phinney Avenue N.\u003cbr>\nSeattle WA 98103\u003cbr>\n(206) 632-5100\u003cbr>\nFactory tours offered daily. Reservations strongly recommended. Book three to four weeks ahead.\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Facebook:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/theochocolate\">Theo Chocolate\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Twitter:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/theochocolate\">@theochocolate\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.chihulygardenandglass.com/collections-caf%C3%A9\">Collections Café at Chihuly Garden and Glass\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Address:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://goo.gl/maps/V30eu\">Map\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n305 Harrison St.\u003cbr>\nSeattle WA 98109\u003cbr>\n(206) 753-4935\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.chihulygardenandglass.com/collections-caf%C3%A9\">Website\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Facebook:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/pages/Chihuly-Garden-and-Glass/256743597681198\">Chihuly Garden and Glass\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Twitter:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/chihulygg\">@chihulygg\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.thewhalewins.com/\">The Whale Wins\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Address:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://goo.gl/maps/DaCz1\">Map\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n3506 Stone Way North\u003cbr>\nSeattle, WA 98103\u003cbr>\n(206) 632-9425\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Facebook:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/TheWhaleWins\">The Whale Wins\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Twitter:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/Thewhalewins\">@Thewhalewins\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.mattsinthemarket.com/\">Matt’s in the Market\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Address:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nPike Place Market\u003cbr>\n94 Pike St #32, Seattle, WA 98101\u003cbr>\n(206) 467-7909\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Facebook:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/mattsinthemarket?fref=ts\">Matt's in the Market\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Twitter:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/mattsinthemkt\">@mattsinthemkt\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://tomdouglas.com/index.php?page=lola\">Lola\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Address:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://goo.gl/maps/zrVrz\">Map\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n2000 4th Ave. Seattle, WA 98121\u003cbr>\n(206) 441-1430\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Facebook:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/tdrestaurants\">Tom Douglas Restaurants\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Twitter:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/TomDouglasCo\">@TomDouglasCo\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Disclosure: Mary’s trip was organized by the Chihuly Garden and Glass at Seattle Center.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Celebrate the Ferry Plaza Farmers' Market 20th Birthday Bash with CUESA",
"title": "Celebrate the Ferry Plaza Farmers' Market 20th Birthday Bash with CUESA",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_62064\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/alice-waters.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/alice-waters.jpg\" alt=\" Archival photo of Alice Waters at the Ferry Plaza Farmers Market. Photo courtesy of CUESA\" width=\"1024\" height=\"684\" class=\"size-full wp-image-62064\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Archival photo of Alice Waters at the Ferry Plaza Farmers Market. Photo courtesy of CUESA\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>On May 18, \u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org\">CUESA\u003c/a> will be celebrating the \u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org/events/2013/ferry-plaza-farmers-market-20th-birthday-bash\">20th Birthday Bash\u003c/a> of the Ferry Plaza Farmers' Market, with special events throughout the Saturday morning market. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For $20 a ticket ($10 for children 10 and under), market goers can create their own seasonal fruit shortcakes at stations \"curated\" with market ingredients prepared by four top local pastry chefs: William Werner of \u003ca href=\"http://craftsman-wolves.com/\">Craftsman & Wolves\u003c/a>, Francis Ang of \u003ca href=\"http://www.fifthfloorrestaurant.com/\">Fifth Floor\u003c/a>, Jen Musty of \u003ca href=\"http://batterbakery.com/\">Batter Bakery\u003c/a>, and Luis Villavelazquez of \u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org/artisan/les-elements-patisserie\">Les Elements Patisserie\u003c/a>. There will also be coffee, tea, and a juice and mimosa bar filled with fresh-squeezed juices, fresh fruit and vegetable purees (don't miss the surprisingly refreshing fennel-frond puree), sparkling water and Champagne. The market's founders will do a presentation at 11am.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_62137\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/mimosa600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/mimosa600.jpg\" alt=\"Preview of the mimosa bar\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-62137\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Preview of the mimosa bar\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The first regular weekly markets, held in front of the Ferry Building, happened in 1993. Do you remember 1993? I do. The scars of 1989's 6.8 Loma Prieta quake still criss-crossed the city. A post-earthquake, post-financial crash, pre-tech boom recession meant jobs were scarce but rents were cheap. But change was coming, mostly notably along the waterfront. Since 1958, the Embaracadero Freeway had sliced across the northeastern edge of the city, throwing the piers from the Bay Bridge northwards into concrete-shadowed gloom. Ferries still left from the Ferry Building, but to get to them, you scuttled as fast as possible through the building's dimly lit, grubby passages, no more inviting than a New York City subway tunnel. Then, in 1991, the earthquake-damaged freeway was finally removed, and the City realized it had a civic jewel--the greatly underutilized Ferry Building, suddenly revealed in all its Market Street-anchoring glory--on its hands. It would take another seven years before renovations would begin that would return the Ferry Building to a modernized, food-glorying version of its original 1898 self--but in the bare stretches of concrete out front (remember, those pretty, palm-dotted, skateboard-ready plazas are still at least a decade away), a culinary revolution was getting underway, one head of oak-leaf lettuce at a time. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_62066\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/ferry-building.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/ferry-building.jpg\" alt=\"Aerial view of an early Ferry Plaza Farmers' Market across from the Ferry Building. Photo: Courtesy of CUESA\" width=\"1024\" height=\"695\" class=\"size-full wp-image-62066\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Aerial view of an early Ferry Plaza Farmers' Market across from the Ferry Building. Photo: Courtesy of CUESA\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In 1992, a small group of San Franciscans including Sibella Kraus, then a forager and produce-finder for Alice Waters at Chez Panisse, writer, restaurant critic and Hayes Street Grill chef/owner Patricia Unterman, and local developer Tom Sargeant organized themselves into the San Francisco Public Market Collaborative, with the idea of reclaiming the waterfront for a public market that would connect farmers directly with chefs and home cooks--in fact, with any curious city eaters. After endless meetings with representatives from the City and the Port, they got grudging approval for a one-time-only open-air market in Ferry Plaza parking lot on Sept. 12, 1992. At the time, the Alemany Market, located near the freeways at the base of Bernal Heights, was the city's only regular farmers' market. If you were a chef, you relied on distributors and vendors from the wholesale produce market near Bayview. If you needed speciality items, you could swing through Chinatown, the Richmond, or the Mission, if you had time, but mostly, you talked to your delivery guys on the phone, and hoped they'd show up with something close to what you'd asked for. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The success of the one-day market took even the optimists of the collaborative by surprise. The group immediately began pressuring the city to give permission for a regular market, bringing farmers and urbanites together on a weekly basis. By 1993, there was already a few months of precedent: the Heart of the City Farmers' Market had set up in Civic Center in early spring. Starting in May, the market slowly gained momentum, and word spread between interested cooks and farmers alike. Here was the place to come to get stuff fresh, straight from the ground. Farmers were learning, too, that these new customers were curious. They didn't just want as many bunches for a dollar as they could get; they wanted to sniff and taste and know what it was they were seeing. By the time the summer was over, the farmers didn't want to leave. They'd found a new outlet for their produce, one that required a lot of more hands-on time, but also could command a better price that wholesaling. And there were relationships forming, between up-at-3-am farmers from Watsonville and Guinda and city customers who were entranced at the idea of farm-fresh corn and just-picked melons showing up just down the hills from their Telegraph Hill doorsteps once a week. After yet more negotiating with the city, and the market became a year-round event. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_62143\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/eatwell.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/eatwell.jpg\" alt=\"Eatwell Farm stand in the early years--no crowds! Photo: Courtesy of Eatwell Farms\" width=\"1024\" height=\"678\" class=\"size-full wp-image-62143\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Eatwell Farm stand in the early years--no crowds! Photo: Courtesy of Eatwell Farms\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>And from the beginning, the chefs came, too. In those first years, as I was learning my way around the city's food scene as the weekly restaurant critic for the San Francisco Bay Guardian, every trip to the market was punctuated by running into a half-dozen other food writers, editors, cookbook authors, and chefs. It was a pretty small world, and for a few hours every Saturday morning, it really was a village. (Look, there's Alice, sniffing the peaches!) The original core group of founders had reorganized into \u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org\">CUESA, the Center for Urban Education about Sustainable Agriculture\u003c/a>--none of which were the food-world buzzwords that they are today. From the beginning, the market's organizers had a larger vision: to educate minds as well as palates, and to change the way people, both home cooks and chefs, thought about the process of getting food to their tables. Meeting farmers every week, hearing how the weather or gas prices or labor issues were affecting their crops, seeing how their produce was shaped not season by season but week by week, was a living education for everyone shopping at the market. And farmers learned, too: about what they could sell, what flew off the table and what, like puntarelle, minaret-shaped romesco broccoli, padron peppers, or fuzzy-sheathed green almonds, needed a little more nudging to get piled into the chefs' carts and make it onto menus across the city. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_62067\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/quail-farms.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/quail-farms.jpg\" alt=\"David Winsburg of Happy Quail Farms, who helped create the craze for padron peppers. Photo: Courtesy of CUESA\" width=\"1024\" height=\"674\" class=\"size-full wp-image-62067\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">David Winsburg of Happy Quail Farms, who helped create the craze for padron peppers. Photo: Courtesy of CUESA\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As the renovations of the waterfront and the Ferry Building got underway, the market moved to accommodate the construction, from various parking lots around the building, then north to another parking lot off Green Street near the Embarcadero. It remained for several years, then moved back, now to wrap around the Ferry Building, filling the back parking lot and wrapping around the building. I can still remember one blustery December 31, a vendor calling out, \"Free rutabaga with every purchase!\" and the delicious rutabaga-potato mash I made on New Year's Day. Or the blissfully sunny February days, the market stalls glowing with sunshine-colored citrus, everyone outside eating oysters, when I'd come back to visit from self-imposed exile in gray, slushy, freezing New York City and wonder why I'd ever left. (Three years away from San Francisco was all I could stand.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_62152\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/sunday-market.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/sunday-market.jpg\" alt=\"Autumn market sign. Photo: Courtesy of CUESA\" width=\"1024\" height=\"684\" class=\"size-full wp-image-62152\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Autumn market sign. Photo: Courtesy of CUESA\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There was a brief, unsuccessful attempt at a Sunday morning market; much more popular were the two lunchtime markets for downtown workers and weekday visitors on Tuesdays and Thursdays. Innovations at the market--from the Waste Wise initiative, which brought large-scale composting and recycling to the market, to the ban on plastic shopping bags, later adopted by the city as a whole, has made a small but significant change for the better in the way we shop and eat. Hundreds of schoolchildren come through the market every year, learning where their food comes from, and how it gets from dirt to plate. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_62147\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/cuesa-info.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/cuesa-info.jpg\" alt=\"Info Booth at Ferry Plaza Farmers Market. Photo: Courtesy of CUESA\" width=\"1024\" height=\"677\" class=\"size-full wp-image-62147\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Info Booth at Ferry Plaza Farmers Market. Photo: Courtesy of CUESA\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Every day, says executive director David Stockdale, he talks with people from all over the world who are interested in learning from the market. Many of the vendors with brick-and-mortar shops inside the Ferry Building--\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/12/14/qa-with-michael-recchiuti-about-chocolate-lab-and-the-holidays/\">Michael Recchiuti\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/06/24/behind-the-legend-of-frog-hollow-farm/\">Frog Hollow Farm\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/02/03/american-eatery-from-prather-ranch-meat-co/\">Prather Ranch\u003c/a>, and soon \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/03/26/rancho-gordos-ferry-building-store-is-coming-soon-qa-with-steve-sando/\">Rancho Gordo\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/11/12/food-secrets-of-humphry-slocombes-jake-godby-sean-vahey/\">Humphrey Slocombe\u003c/a>--started out as vendors in one of the three weekly markets. It's become not just a market but an educational tool, a visitors' destination, a fun place to go for breakfast or lunch, and a showcase for some of Northern and Central California's best produce, week in and week out. Happy birthday, CUESA, and thank you for all you've done. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Do you have memories of the early days of the Ferry Plaza Farmers Market? Please share in the comments section, below. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "In honor of its 20th anniversary, Bay Area Bites looks back on how the Ferry Plaza Farmers' Market has become a San Francisco institution for chefs, home cooks, and curious eaters from around the world. ",
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"description": "In honor of its 20th anniversary, Bay Area Bites looks back on how the Ferry Plaza Farmers' Market has become a San Francisco institution for chefs, home cooks, and curious eaters from around the world. ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_62064\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/alice-waters.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/alice-waters.jpg\" alt=\" Archival photo of Alice Waters at the Ferry Plaza Farmers Market. Photo courtesy of CUESA\" width=\"1024\" height=\"684\" class=\"size-full wp-image-62064\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Archival photo of Alice Waters at the Ferry Plaza Farmers Market. Photo courtesy of CUESA\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>On May 18, \u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org\">CUESA\u003c/a> will be celebrating the \u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org/events/2013/ferry-plaza-farmers-market-20th-birthday-bash\">20th Birthday Bash\u003c/a> of the Ferry Plaza Farmers' Market, with special events throughout the Saturday morning market. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For $20 a ticket ($10 for children 10 and under), market goers can create their own seasonal fruit shortcakes at stations \"curated\" with market ingredients prepared by four top local pastry chefs: William Werner of \u003ca href=\"http://craftsman-wolves.com/\">Craftsman & Wolves\u003c/a>, Francis Ang of \u003ca href=\"http://www.fifthfloorrestaurant.com/\">Fifth Floor\u003c/a>, Jen Musty of \u003ca href=\"http://batterbakery.com/\">Batter Bakery\u003c/a>, and Luis Villavelazquez of \u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org/artisan/les-elements-patisserie\">Les Elements Patisserie\u003c/a>. There will also be coffee, tea, and a juice and mimosa bar filled with fresh-squeezed juices, fresh fruit and vegetable purees (don't miss the surprisingly refreshing fennel-frond puree), sparkling water and Champagne. The market's founders will do a presentation at 11am.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_62137\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/mimosa600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/mimosa600.jpg\" alt=\"Preview of the mimosa bar\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-62137\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Preview of the mimosa bar\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The first regular weekly markets, held in front of the Ferry Building, happened in 1993. Do you remember 1993? I do. The scars of 1989's 6.8 Loma Prieta quake still criss-crossed the city. A post-earthquake, post-financial crash, pre-tech boom recession meant jobs were scarce but rents were cheap. But change was coming, mostly notably along the waterfront. Since 1958, the Embaracadero Freeway had sliced across the northeastern edge of the city, throwing the piers from the Bay Bridge northwards into concrete-shadowed gloom. Ferries still left from the Ferry Building, but to get to them, you scuttled as fast as possible through the building's dimly lit, grubby passages, no more inviting than a New York City subway tunnel. Then, in 1991, the earthquake-damaged freeway was finally removed, and the City realized it had a civic jewel--the greatly underutilized Ferry Building, suddenly revealed in all its Market Street-anchoring glory--on its hands. It would take another seven years before renovations would begin that would return the Ferry Building to a modernized, food-glorying version of its original 1898 self--but in the bare stretches of concrete out front (remember, those pretty, palm-dotted, skateboard-ready plazas are still at least a decade away), a culinary revolution was getting underway, one head of oak-leaf lettuce at a time. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_62066\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/ferry-building.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/ferry-building.jpg\" alt=\"Aerial view of an early Ferry Plaza Farmers' Market across from the Ferry Building. Photo: Courtesy of CUESA\" width=\"1024\" height=\"695\" class=\"size-full wp-image-62066\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Aerial view of an early Ferry Plaza Farmers' Market across from the Ferry Building. Photo: Courtesy of CUESA\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In 1992, a small group of San Franciscans including Sibella Kraus, then a forager and produce-finder for Alice Waters at Chez Panisse, writer, restaurant critic and Hayes Street Grill chef/owner Patricia Unterman, and local developer Tom Sargeant organized themselves into the San Francisco Public Market Collaborative, with the idea of reclaiming the waterfront for a public market that would connect farmers directly with chefs and home cooks--in fact, with any curious city eaters. After endless meetings with representatives from the City and the Port, they got grudging approval for a one-time-only open-air market in Ferry Plaza parking lot on Sept. 12, 1992. At the time, the Alemany Market, located near the freeways at the base of Bernal Heights, was the city's only regular farmers' market. If you were a chef, you relied on distributors and vendors from the wholesale produce market near Bayview. If you needed speciality items, you could swing through Chinatown, the Richmond, or the Mission, if you had time, but mostly, you talked to your delivery guys on the phone, and hoped they'd show up with something close to what you'd asked for. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The success of the one-day market took even the optimists of the collaborative by surprise. The group immediately began pressuring the city to give permission for a regular market, bringing farmers and urbanites together on a weekly basis. By 1993, there was already a few months of precedent: the Heart of the City Farmers' Market had set up in Civic Center in early spring. Starting in May, the market slowly gained momentum, and word spread between interested cooks and farmers alike. Here was the place to come to get stuff fresh, straight from the ground. Farmers were learning, too, that these new customers were curious. They didn't just want as many bunches for a dollar as they could get; they wanted to sniff and taste and know what it was they were seeing. By the time the summer was over, the farmers didn't want to leave. They'd found a new outlet for their produce, one that required a lot of more hands-on time, but also could command a better price that wholesaling. And there were relationships forming, between up-at-3-am farmers from Watsonville and Guinda and city customers who were entranced at the idea of farm-fresh corn and just-picked melons showing up just down the hills from their Telegraph Hill doorsteps once a week. After yet more negotiating with the city, and the market became a year-round event. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_62143\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/eatwell.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/eatwell.jpg\" alt=\"Eatwell Farm stand in the early years--no crowds! Photo: Courtesy of Eatwell Farms\" width=\"1024\" height=\"678\" class=\"size-full wp-image-62143\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Eatwell Farm stand in the early years--no crowds! Photo: Courtesy of Eatwell Farms\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>And from the beginning, the chefs came, too. In those first years, as I was learning my way around the city's food scene as the weekly restaurant critic for the San Francisco Bay Guardian, every trip to the market was punctuated by running into a half-dozen other food writers, editors, cookbook authors, and chefs. It was a pretty small world, and for a few hours every Saturday morning, it really was a village. (Look, there's Alice, sniffing the peaches!) The original core group of founders had reorganized into \u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org\">CUESA, the Center for Urban Education about Sustainable Agriculture\u003c/a>--none of which were the food-world buzzwords that they are today. From the beginning, the market's organizers had a larger vision: to educate minds as well as palates, and to change the way people, both home cooks and chefs, thought about the process of getting food to their tables. Meeting farmers every week, hearing how the weather or gas prices or labor issues were affecting their crops, seeing how their produce was shaped not season by season but week by week, was a living education for everyone shopping at the market. And farmers learned, too: about what they could sell, what flew off the table and what, like puntarelle, minaret-shaped romesco broccoli, padron peppers, or fuzzy-sheathed green almonds, needed a little more nudging to get piled into the chefs' carts and make it onto menus across the city. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_62067\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/quail-farms.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/quail-farms.jpg\" alt=\"David Winsburg of Happy Quail Farms, who helped create the craze for padron peppers. Photo: Courtesy of CUESA\" width=\"1024\" height=\"674\" class=\"size-full wp-image-62067\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">David Winsburg of Happy Quail Farms, who helped create the craze for padron peppers. Photo: Courtesy of CUESA\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As the renovations of the waterfront and the Ferry Building got underway, the market moved to accommodate the construction, from various parking lots around the building, then north to another parking lot off Green Street near the Embarcadero. It remained for several years, then moved back, now to wrap around the Ferry Building, filling the back parking lot and wrapping around the building. I can still remember one blustery December 31, a vendor calling out, \"Free rutabaga with every purchase!\" and the delicious rutabaga-potato mash I made on New Year's Day. Or the blissfully sunny February days, the market stalls glowing with sunshine-colored citrus, everyone outside eating oysters, when I'd come back to visit from self-imposed exile in gray, slushy, freezing New York City and wonder why I'd ever left. (Three years away from San Francisco was all I could stand.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_62152\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/sunday-market.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/sunday-market.jpg\" alt=\"Autumn market sign. Photo: Courtesy of CUESA\" width=\"1024\" height=\"684\" class=\"size-full wp-image-62152\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Autumn market sign. Photo: Courtesy of CUESA\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There was a brief, unsuccessful attempt at a Sunday morning market; much more popular were the two lunchtime markets for downtown workers and weekday visitors on Tuesdays and Thursdays. Innovations at the market--from the Waste Wise initiative, which brought large-scale composting and recycling to the market, to the ban on plastic shopping bags, later adopted by the city as a whole, has made a small but significant change for the better in the way we shop and eat. Hundreds of schoolchildren come through the market every year, learning where their food comes from, and how it gets from dirt to plate. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_62147\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/cuesa-info.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/cuesa-info.jpg\" alt=\"Info Booth at Ferry Plaza Farmers Market. Photo: Courtesy of CUESA\" width=\"1024\" height=\"677\" class=\"size-full wp-image-62147\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Info Booth at Ferry Plaza Farmers Market. Photo: Courtesy of CUESA\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Every day, says executive director David Stockdale, he talks with people from all over the world who are interested in learning from the market. Many of the vendors with brick-and-mortar shops inside the Ferry Building--\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/12/14/qa-with-michael-recchiuti-about-chocolate-lab-and-the-holidays/\">Michael Recchiuti\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/06/24/behind-the-legend-of-frog-hollow-farm/\">Frog Hollow Farm\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/02/03/american-eatery-from-prather-ranch-meat-co/\">Prather Ranch\u003c/a>, and soon \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/03/26/rancho-gordos-ferry-building-store-is-coming-soon-qa-with-steve-sando/\">Rancho Gordo\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/11/12/food-secrets-of-humphry-slocombes-jake-godby-sean-vahey/\">Humphrey Slocombe\u003c/a>--started out as vendors in one of the three weekly markets. It's become not just a market but an educational tool, a visitors' destination, a fun place to go for breakfast or lunch, and a showcase for some of Northern and Central California's best produce, week in and week out. Happy birthday, CUESA, and thank you for all you've done. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Do you have memories of the early days of the Ferry Plaza Farmers Market? Please share in the comments section, below. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Exploratorium Elevates Museum Eating Experience",
"title": "Exploratorium Elevates Museum Eating Experience",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_61994\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/exploratorium-view1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/exploratorium-view1000.jpg\" alt=\"Diners enjoy stellar water views at the Exploratorium's Seaglass restaurant.\" width=\"1000\" height=\"705\" class=\"size-full wp-image-61994\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Exploratorium's new digs boast stellar water views. Photo: Amy Snyder\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The museum cafe, long a place of soggy sandwiches and mediocre meals, is getting a makeover in the Bay Area. Case in point: The recently reopened \u003ca href=\"http://www.exploratorium.edu/\">Exploratorium\u003c/a> in new digs at Pier 15 in San Francisco, which offers creative fare tied to the mission of the museum, known for its interactive exhibits and playful approach, designed to encourage curiosity and experimentation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Think seawater cocktails. Honeycomb with almonds and apricots. And living or fermented foods.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Visitors have \u003ca href=\"http://www.exploratorium.edu/visit/restaurant-cafe\">three eating options\u003c/a>: The 200-seat Seaglass restaurant, complete with panoramic views, a glass-topped raw bar, and open kitchen, which serves up familiar, family-friendly fare like tacos, pizza, and sandwiches -- albeit with a sustainable pedigree -- along with more adventurous eats such as marinated sardines, batter-fried green beans, and kelp salad with quinoa. There's even a local riff on \u003ca href=\"http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/wordofmouth/2011/oct/27/how-to-cook-perfect-welsh-rarebit\">Welsh Rarebit\u003c/a> (that's gussied up grilled cheese to the uninitiated.) A full-bar serves cocktails promising a taste of the sea and in-vogue drinking vinegars known as shrubs. Near the museum's Embarcadero entrance, the Seismic Joint offers take-away chow such as a chickpea-battered fish fingers, various spins on clam chowder, salads, and sandwiches. Mobile food trikes (\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/12/27/a-cozy-coffee-spot-in-oaklands-temescal-alley-the-cro-cafe/\">built by Luigi Oldani and crew of CRO Cafe\u003c/a>) roam the floors, peddling espresso \u003ca href=\"http://www.thanksgivingcoffee.com/\">Thanksgiving\u003c/a> coffee, baked goods, and Strauss organic soft-serve ice cream.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The culinary duo behind the Exploratorium's restaurant menu features acclaimed chef Loretta Keller of \u003ca href=\"http://coco500.com/\">Coco500\u003c/a>, a perennial \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfchronicle.com/food/collection/Premium-Top-100-22959.php\">\u003cem>Chronicle\u003c/em> Top 100 restaurant\u003c/a>, and her Coco500 partner, catering operations manager Clay Reynolds. The pair, who previously partnered with \u003ca href=\"http://charlesphan.com/\">Charles Phan\u003c/a> of \u003ca href=\"http://www.slanteddoor.com/family\">Slanted Door\u003c/a> fame to run \u003ca href=\"http://themossroom.com/\">The Moss Room\u003c/a> at \u003ca href=\"http://www.calacademy.org/\">The California Academy of Sciences\u003c/a>, have teamed up with \u003ca href=\"http://www.bamco.com/\">Bon Appetit Management Company\u003c/a>, known for its emphasis on scratch cooking with sustainably sourced ingredients, for the Exploratorium's edible enterprises to form the \u003ca href=\"http://www.curiositycatering.com/\">Curiosity Catering Company\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Keller talked with BAB about her plans to feed people well \u003cem>and\u003c/em> offer a side of education at the Exploratorium.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_61993\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/Clay_Loretta1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/Clay_Loretta1000.jpg\" alt=\"Loretta Keller and Clay Reynolds join forces at the Exploratorium. Photo: Gayle Laird\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-61993\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Clay Reynolds and Loretta Keller join forces at the Exploratorium. Photo: Gayle Laird\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What got you excited about creating food for the Exploratorium?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What resonated with me about this project was a sense of place. The Exploratorium moved from this dark, cavernous space to a venue 800 feet over the water. Place is both a subject to explore and engage with at the Exploratorium. For me that means something in terms of food but also as a human being.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The environment and human experience, that's everything to me. The importance of farming and where our food comes from is a very familiar mantra in the Bay Area. When you spend as much time as I do as a professional inside the food industry here you can get to a point where you're in your own zip code. It can become precious and you can lose sight of the fact that our work is not done.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>More than any other reason to be involved here, the museum offers a new and incredibly creative, intelligent and organic opportunity to do work on environmental consciousness, sustainability, and awareness around food and the planet. The Exploratorium is a great way to shake things up and have people engage with an exhibit in a hands-on way. That's where the learning begins.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Is that where the honeycomb comes in?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yes. The honeybee is in peril so by serving the honeycomb I'm hoping to help people stop and think and connect the bee with the almonds and the apricots -- that's why those things are always going to accompany the honeycomb. We want it to be a real exhibit and educational model that people will become intrigued by and realize how endangered bees are, which means your almonds are endangered, and all your stone fruit is endangered, and a whole way of eating is at risk. Bees are struggling with so many things right now; they're overworked and experience bee jet lag. Bees want to winter in Florida, but instead almond growers in California pay exorbitant prices to have them flown or trucked here and put to work to meet demand. California is the biggest producer of almonds in the world, something like 70 percent, and people just take that for granted. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_61997\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/seaglass1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/seaglass1000.jpg\" alt=\"Japanese chef Sachio Kojima, who developed fervent fans for his sushi over the years, heads up Seaglass's seafood and fermentation section. Photo: Gayle Laird\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-61997\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Japanese chef Sachio Kojima, who developed fervent fans for his sushi over the years, heads up Seaglass's seafood and fermentation section. Photo: Gayle Laird\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>How are you incorporating living and fermented foods into the menu?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We are so lucky to have master chef Sachio Kojima, who had his own popular restaurant, Kabuto Sushi A&S, on Geary for more than 20 years, come on as our director of fermentation. He's making seaweed and kelp salads, with kelp gathered from Marin, Mendocino, and Monterey counties, we'll have algae on the menu too. And from our pickling program, we'll offer traditional Japanese pickles, kimchi, and sauerkraut.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_61996\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 960px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/seaglass_sushiMap960x453.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/seaglass_sushiMap960x453.jpg\" alt=\"Visitors to the Exploratorium's Seaglass restaurant can order from a raw bar full of sustainable seafood. Photo: Gayle Laird\" width=\"960\" height=\"453\" class=\"size-full wp-image-61996\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Visitors to the Exploratorium's Seaglass restaurant can order from a raw bar full of sustainable seafood.\u003cbr>Photo: Gayle Laird\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Where does sustainable seafood fit in?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We are doing an ocean bar, serving sushi, sashimi, and oysters that Sachio oversees as well. It's all West Coast, Monterey Bay Watch-sanctioned seafood.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We missed the herring run this season but we'll be serving herring next Spring. And we'll serve anchovies in season too; these are really the last of the commercial fisheries within the bay. People have to understand that their choices are becoming so limited with regards to fish. There are very few wild fish that are sustainable. So we'll be serving what people think of as bait and also serving whole fish. That starts a conversation in the U.S. because most people here are not used to seeing a whole fish or bait on a plate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_61995\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/sea.grape_.keller.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/sea.grape_.keller.jpg\" alt=\"Sea grapes add a salty kick to cocktails at the Exploratorium. Photo: Loretta Keller\" width=\"640\" height=\"478\" class=\"size-full wp-image-61995\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sea grapes add a salty kick to cocktails at the Exploratorium. Photo: Loretta Keller\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What about seawater and its connection to the new space?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My partner Clay Reynolds wanted to serve filtered seawater to drink, but the technology isn't quite there. And then we wanted to run the dishwasher on seawater but it became clear that that was a whole project on its own. But the \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfchronicle.com/science/article/Exploratorium-sets-Net-Zero-energy-goal-4422432.php\">Exploratorium is using seawater to heat the building\u003c/a>, which is quite extraordinary.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We're using seawater in a cocktail. It turns out that the health department doesn't recognize seawater as a consumable, so we're not allowed to serve seawater per se. But there are kelps available that contain seawater, and there's a Monterey County kelp called sea grape, that we add to our signature martini, which tastes great with a little bit of seawater. So we're garnishing the drink with this kelp whose buds are full of seawater, when you burst them in your mouth you get a nice jolt of salt.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We're including seawater in other ways in the restaurant too. The multi-hued glass tiles are based on a museum exhibit called \"Color of Water.\" To create the piece, a fixed-position camera took time-lapse photos of the bay, the color variations are caused by sunlight, tides, and microorganisms.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The piece in the dining room called \"Thermal Mixing\" also demonstrates the dynamics of the bay: It's a triptych of panels of colored water of different temperatures that swirl like giant mood rings on the back wall. \"Icy Bodies\" is an exhibit where fragments of dry ice are pushed into a tank and spin around like comets across a sheet of water below a glass-topped bar. All these are nods to one of the most extraordinary places on the planet for moving water.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What role does food play at the museum?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By and large, with few exceptions, the food served at museums in this country is like prison food, just terrible. All this money was being spent on creating the new Exploratorium, which is a gift to residents and visitors of San Francisco, and so it's critical that the food match the museum and its surroundings.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>First and foremost we want to serve healthy, well-prepared fresh food to the museum goers, that's our mandate. The challenge within that framework is to build in education, implicitly and explicitly, about sustainability. I get to be creative and think outside the box. We plan to do corn education tied to an exhibit and blind wine tastings at our adult nights. At the Exploratorium it's not about looking at stuff, it's about interacting with stuff. There's an intimacy here that provides a direct way to get to people's minds. And food has always been a great platform to reach people because it is so intimate and it's a necessity; people have to eat every day. There aren't that many mediums that offer that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Details:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>The restaurant is open during regular museum hours: Tuesday-Sunday 10am-5pm; Wednesday evenings until 10pm; every Thursday evening adults only (ages 18 and up) 6pm-10pm. It caters primarily to museum guests, but the public can access the restaurant from an exterior entrance.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Chef Loretta Keller, the force behind the Exploratorium's new culinary options, talks bee jet lag, living foods, and seawater cocktails with BAB's Sarah Henry.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_61994\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/exploratorium-view1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/exploratorium-view1000.jpg\" alt=\"Diners enjoy stellar water views at the Exploratorium's Seaglass restaurant.\" width=\"1000\" height=\"705\" class=\"size-full wp-image-61994\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Exploratorium's new digs boast stellar water views. Photo: Amy Snyder\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The museum cafe, long a place of soggy sandwiches and mediocre meals, is getting a makeover in the Bay Area. Case in point: The recently reopened \u003ca href=\"http://www.exploratorium.edu/\">Exploratorium\u003c/a> in new digs at Pier 15 in San Francisco, which offers creative fare tied to the mission of the museum, known for its interactive exhibits and playful approach, designed to encourage curiosity and experimentation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Think seawater cocktails. Honeycomb with almonds and apricots. And living or fermented foods.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Visitors have \u003ca href=\"http://www.exploratorium.edu/visit/restaurant-cafe\">three eating options\u003c/a>: The 200-seat Seaglass restaurant, complete with panoramic views, a glass-topped raw bar, and open kitchen, which serves up familiar, family-friendly fare like tacos, pizza, and sandwiches -- albeit with a sustainable pedigree -- along with more adventurous eats such as marinated sardines, batter-fried green beans, and kelp salad with quinoa. There's even a local riff on \u003ca href=\"http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/wordofmouth/2011/oct/27/how-to-cook-perfect-welsh-rarebit\">Welsh Rarebit\u003c/a> (that's gussied up grilled cheese to the uninitiated.) A full-bar serves cocktails promising a taste of the sea and in-vogue drinking vinegars known as shrubs. Near the museum's Embarcadero entrance, the Seismic Joint offers take-away chow such as a chickpea-battered fish fingers, various spins on clam chowder, salads, and sandwiches. Mobile food trikes (\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/12/27/a-cozy-coffee-spot-in-oaklands-temescal-alley-the-cro-cafe/\">built by Luigi Oldani and crew of CRO Cafe\u003c/a>) roam the floors, peddling espresso \u003ca href=\"http://www.thanksgivingcoffee.com/\">Thanksgiving\u003c/a> coffee, baked goods, and Strauss organic soft-serve ice cream.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The culinary duo behind the Exploratorium's restaurant menu features acclaimed chef Loretta Keller of \u003ca href=\"http://coco500.com/\">Coco500\u003c/a>, a perennial \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfchronicle.com/food/collection/Premium-Top-100-22959.php\">\u003cem>Chronicle\u003c/em> Top 100 restaurant\u003c/a>, and her Coco500 partner, catering operations manager Clay Reynolds. The pair, who previously partnered with \u003ca href=\"http://charlesphan.com/\">Charles Phan\u003c/a> of \u003ca href=\"http://www.slanteddoor.com/family\">Slanted Door\u003c/a> fame to run \u003ca href=\"http://themossroom.com/\">The Moss Room\u003c/a> at \u003ca href=\"http://www.calacademy.org/\">The California Academy of Sciences\u003c/a>, have teamed up with \u003ca href=\"http://www.bamco.com/\">Bon Appetit Management Company\u003c/a>, known for its emphasis on scratch cooking with sustainably sourced ingredients, for the Exploratorium's edible enterprises to form the \u003ca href=\"http://www.curiositycatering.com/\">Curiosity Catering Company\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Keller talked with BAB about her plans to feed people well \u003cem>and\u003c/em> offer a side of education at the Exploratorium.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_61993\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/Clay_Loretta1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/Clay_Loretta1000.jpg\" alt=\"Loretta Keller and Clay Reynolds join forces at the Exploratorium. Photo: Gayle Laird\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-61993\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Clay Reynolds and Loretta Keller join forces at the Exploratorium. Photo: Gayle Laird\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What got you excited about creating food for the Exploratorium?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What resonated with me about this project was a sense of place. The Exploratorium moved from this dark, cavernous space to a venue 800 feet over the water. Place is both a subject to explore and engage with at the Exploratorium. For me that means something in terms of food but also as a human being.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The environment and human experience, that's everything to me. The importance of farming and where our food comes from is a very familiar mantra in the Bay Area. When you spend as much time as I do as a professional inside the food industry here you can get to a point where you're in your own zip code. It can become precious and you can lose sight of the fact that our work is not done.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>More than any other reason to be involved here, the museum offers a new and incredibly creative, intelligent and organic opportunity to do work on environmental consciousness, sustainability, and awareness around food and the planet. The Exploratorium is a great way to shake things up and have people engage with an exhibit in a hands-on way. That's where the learning begins.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Is that where the honeycomb comes in?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yes. The honeybee is in peril so by serving the honeycomb I'm hoping to help people stop and think and connect the bee with the almonds and the apricots -- that's why those things are always going to accompany the honeycomb. We want it to be a real exhibit and educational model that people will become intrigued by and realize how endangered bees are, which means your almonds are endangered, and all your stone fruit is endangered, and a whole way of eating is at risk. Bees are struggling with so many things right now; they're overworked and experience bee jet lag. Bees want to winter in Florida, but instead almond growers in California pay exorbitant prices to have them flown or trucked here and put to work to meet demand. California is the biggest producer of almonds in the world, something like 70 percent, and people just take that for granted. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_61997\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/seaglass1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/seaglass1000.jpg\" alt=\"Japanese chef Sachio Kojima, who developed fervent fans for his sushi over the years, heads up Seaglass's seafood and fermentation section. Photo: Gayle Laird\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-61997\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Japanese chef Sachio Kojima, who developed fervent fans for his sushi over the years, heads up Seaglass's seafood and fermentation section. Photo: Gayle Laird\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>How are you incorporating living and fermented foods into the menu?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We are so lucky to have master chef Sachio Kojima, who had his own popular restaurant, Kabuto Sushi A&S, on Geary for more than 20 years, come on as our director of fermentation. He's making seaweed and kelp salads, with kelp gathered from Marin, Mendocino, and Monterey counties, we'll have algae on the menu too. And from our pickling program, we'll offer traditional Japanese pickles, kimchi, and sauerkraut.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_61996\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 960px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/seaglass_sushiMap960x453.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/seaglass_sushiMap960x453.jpg\" alt=\"Visitors to the Exploratorium's Seaglass restaurant can order from a raw bar full of sustainable seafood. Photo: Gayle Laird\" width=\"960\" height=\"453\" class=\"size-full wp-image-61996\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Visitors to the Exploratorium's Seaglass restaurant can order from a raw bar full of sustainable seafood.\u003cbr>Photo: Gayle Laird\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Where does sustainable seafood fit in?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We are doing an ocean bar, serving sushi, sashimi, and oysters that Sachio oversees as well. It's all West Coast, Monterey Bay Watch-sanctioned seafood.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We missed the herring run this season but we'll be serving herring next Spring. And we'll serve anchovies in season too; these are really the last of the commercial fisheries within the bay. People have to understand that their choices are becoming so limited with regards to fish. There are very few wild fish that are sustainable. So we'll be serving what people think of as bait and also serving whole fish. That starts a conversation in the U.S. because most people here are not used to seeing a whole fish or bait on a plate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_61995\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/sea.grape_.keller.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/sea.grape_.keller.jpg\" alt=\"Sea grapes add a salty kick to cocktails at the Exploratorium. Photo: Loretta Keller\" width=\"640\" height=\"478\" class=\"size-full wp-image-61995\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sea grapes add a salty kick to cocktails at the Exploratorium. Photo: Loretta Keller\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What about seawater and its connection to the new space?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My partner Clay Reynolds wanted to serve filtered seawater to drink, but the technology isn't quite there. And then we wanted to run the dishwasher on seawater but it became clear that that was a whole project on its own. But the \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfchronicle.com/science/article/Exploratorium-sets-Net-Zero-energy-goal-4422432.php\">Exploratorium is using seawater to heat the building\u003c/a>, which is quite extraordinary.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We're using seawater in a cocktail. It turns out that the health department doesn't recognize seawater as a consumable, so we're not allowed to serve seawater per se. But there are kelps available that contain seawater, and there's a Monterey County kelp called sea grape, that we add to our signature martini, which tastes great with a little bit of seawater. So we're garnishing the drink with this kelp whose buds are full of seawater, when you burst them in your mouth you get a nice jolt of salt.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We're including seawater in other ways in the restaurant too. The multi-hued glass tiles are based on a museum exhibit called \"Color of Water.\" To create the piece, a fixed-position camera took time-lapse photos of the bay, the color variations are caused by sunlight, tides, and microorganisms.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The piece in the dining room called \"Thermal Mixing\" also demonstrates the dynamics of the bay: It's a triptych of panels of colored water of different temperatures that swirl like giant mood rings on the back wall. \"Icy Bodies\" is an exhibit where fragments of dry ice are pushed into a tank and spin around like comets across a sheet of water below a glass-topped bar. All these are nods to one of the most extraordinary places on the planet for moving water.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What role does food play at the museum?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By and large, with few exceptions, the food served at museums in this country is like prison food, just terrible. All this money was being spent on creating the new Exploratorium, which is a gift to residents and visitors of San Francisco, and so it's critical that the food match the museum and its surroundings.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>First and foremost we want to serve healthy, well-prepared fresh food to the museum goers, that's our mandate. The challenge within that framework is to build in education, implicitly and explicitly, about sustainability. I get to be creative and think outside the box. We plan to do corn education tied to an exhibit and blind wine tastings at our adult nights. At the Exploratorium it's not about looking at stuff, it's about interacting with stuff. There's an intimacy here that provides a direct way to get to people's minds. And food has always been a great platform to reach people because it is so intimate and it's a necessity; people have to eat every day. There aren't that many mediums that offer that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Details:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "Grits, Fried Chicken and Gospel Brunch - Chef David Lawrence Discusses Life at \"1300 on Fillmore\"",
"title": "Grits, Fried Chicken and Gospel Brunch - Chef David Lawrence Discusses Life at \"1300 on Fillmore\"",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_61665\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/chefdavidlawrence1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/chefdavidlawrence1000.jpg\" alt=\"Chef David Lawrence in the 1300 on Fillmore kitchen. Photo courtesy of 1300 Fillmore\" width=\"1000\" height=\"666\" class=\"size-full wp-image-61665\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef David Lawrence in the 1300 on Fillmore kitchen. Photo courtesy of 1300 Fillmore\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>At events like \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/07/03/a-festival-by-chefs-and-for-chefs-sf-chefs-lets-you-eat-drink-and-ogle-chefs-and-their-goods/\">SF Chefs\u003c/a>, we've noticed again and again that chef David Lawrence has culinary offerings that stand out. His \"Soulful American\" bites with roots in England and Jamaica include such dishes as shrimp grits and white grits with pesto, and organic skillet fried chicken, with an upscale twist. Lawrence's plates tend to demonstrate how the deep South can cozy up with fresh California produce, using classic French technique.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/fried_chicken_1300-Fillmore.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/fried_chicken_1300-Fillmore-290x192.jpg\" title=\"Fried chicken with blue cheese fondue. Photo courtesy of 1300 Fillmore\" alt=\"Fried chicken with blue cheese fondue. Photo courtesy of 1300 Fillmore\" width=\"290\" height=\"192\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-61673\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/ribeye1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/ribeye1000-290x193.jpg\" title=\"Ribeye. Photo courtesy of 1300 on Fillmore\" alt=\"Ribeye. Photo courtesy of 1300 on Fillmore\" width=\"290\" height=\"193\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-61694\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Since opening in 2007, Lawrence’s restaurant, \u003ca href=\"http://www.1300fillmore.com/\">1300 on Fillmore\u003c/a>, remains a draw for Sunday gospel brunch crowds, as well as those looking for a group dinner or bar snack--the fried chicken or skillet catfish; meaty ribeye; variety of grits and even warm chocolate beignets with coffee soda are almost begging to be shared. Lawrence, a London native, is 1300 on Fillmore’s executive chef and managing partner. He has cooked for royalty and was formally trained in the culinary arts at Westminster College. In 1982, Lawrence joined England's most celebrated and honored culinarians, Albert and Michel Roux, who were definitely considered \"celeb chefs\" there and were the chef-proprietors of the world-renowned \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/pages/Le-Gavroche/112349592115580?ref=ts&fref=ts\">Le Gavroche\u003c/a> and the \u003ca href=\"http://www.waterside-inn.co.uk/\">Waterside Inn\u003c/a> (at that time, both three-star Michelin restaurants). Lawrence cooked his way through five of their famous restaurants and became a sous chef, in four short years. In 1986, Lawrence became chef de cuisine at Interlude Restaurant in London, which gave him the sweet chance to make meals for none other than the Prince and Princess of Wales; Princess Margaret, Countess of Snowdon; and Prime Minister Margaret Thatcher.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He left for the U.S. in 1988 in a kismet vacation moment that led to chef de cuisine work with a former Le Gavroche chef named Kurt Graising who was opening \u003ca href=\"http://www.231ellsworth.com/\">231 Ellsworth Restaurant\u003c/a> in San Mateo. Lawrence next landed at the (ornate and beautiful) \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/carnelian-room-san-francisco\">Carnelian Room\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/cityscape-bar-and-restaurant-san-francisco\">Cityscape\u003c/a> restaurants in San Francisco, respectively. While at Cityscape, he created the Chefs for Kids program, which raised thousands of dollars for the Tenderloin After School program. Lawrence is also generous with his time for various local charity events. We caught up in person recently to find out more about his culinary style and career. His comments have been edited for length and clarity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/catfish1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/catfish1000-290x193.jpg\" title=\"Skillet catfish. Photo courtesy of 1300 on Fillmore\" alt=\"Skillet catfish. Photo courtesy of 1300 on Fillmore\" width=\"290\" height=\"193\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-61693\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/snapper1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/snapper1000-290x193.jpg\" title=\"Snapper. Photo courtesy of 1300 on Fillmore\" alt=\"Snapper. Photo courtesy of 1300 on Fillmore\" width=\"290\" height=\"193\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-61692\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Can you tell us about your successes & goals?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Lawrence:\u003c/strong> The restaurant just celebrated five years of business last October. When we opened the restaurant, it was all fanfare and then the economy crashed. We survived but had to cut back and there was no sous chef, and no general manager. My wife \u003ca href=\"http://newfillmore.com/fillmore-classics/magic-at-1300-fillmore/\">Monetta White\u003c/a> and I did all that. We we’re able to do so with the support of the city and the people who came in. I’m proud of what we’ve achieved. Now I’m looking at expanding. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Our gospel brunch is on Sunday. For Easter, we decided to try something different, and keep our hours to the daytime and not open at night. I saw hordes of people walking back up to Pacific Heights as they left brunch. Then when I went to Safeway, I saw a line of people, and there were families and kids walking down here. I remember when we first came here and Monetta lived at Bush and Fillmore. Back then, no one went below Bush Street. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/chef_pancake1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/chef_pancake1000.jpg\" title=\"Chef David Lawrence flipping a caramelized onion, yam-potato rosti (pancake). Photo courtesy of 1300 on Fillmore\" alt=\"Chef David Lawrence flipping a caramelized onion, yam-potato rosti (pancake). Photo courtesy of 1300 on Fillmore\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-61689\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/pancake1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/pancake1000-290x193.jpg\" title=\"Caramelized onion, yam-potato rosti (pancake). Photo courtesy of 1300 on Fillmore\" alt=\"Caramelized onion, yam-potato rosti (pancake). Photo courtesy of 1300 on Fillmore\" width=\"290\" height=\"193\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-61690\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/poachedeggchickenliver1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/poachedeggchickenliver1000-290x193.jpg\" width=\"290\" height=\"193\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-61691\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What are your best selling menu items...and your favorites?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Lawrence:\u003c/strong> For the best seller, it’s always the fried chicken. When I walk around and go out, people say that fried chicken is the bestseller. It is so funny because I come from Europe and have worked with Michelin-starred chefs. I have no complaints but my claim to fame is chicken. I just turned 50 in February, and it’s, “Wow, I’m 50 and known for fried chicken.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I am the most proud of dishes like shrimp and grits and fried chicken. The shrimp and grits dishes really got me to look at this cuisine and what we do. Monetta is from Mississippi and we’ve been together for 19 years. We have a similar thing in England where I am from that is cornmeal porridge: sugar, nutmeg, and spice to make it nice and creamy. I cooked the grits more or less the same way and decided to do it without the sugar. Slowly but surely, people became interested and back then, no one was doing this. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: As a chef and businessman, what would you like to be known for?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Lawrence:\u003c/strong> It’s a fine line doing both. I’ve seen many amazing chefs open restaurants and crash. I’ve seen many mediocre chefs succeed because of their business acumen. As a chef, you have to cook what your customers want instead of what your ego wants. It’s about getting that balance. With the restaurant’s earlier days, I had foie gras, lamb, and rabbit and it was great for me but I couldn’t sell it. I never wanted a hamburger but I put one on the menu because people want it. It’s about finding the fine line between your own ego and what makes sense and sells. That way, you can hopefully still enjoy what you do.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Guilty pleasure?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Lawrence:\u003c/strong> My thing is chocolate \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HobNob\">HobNobs\u003c/a>. You call them cookies, and I call them biscuits. I don’t buy them because I can’t eat just one. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Where do you live?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Lawrence:\u003c/strong> We live right above the restaurant. The commute is awesome. I love it. If I get five minutes for myself, I can go upstairs. It gives me just enough time to recharge my batteries. I can pop down if someone is here and wants to say hello, which is the least I can do if they have come all this way to eat at my restaurant. 1300 is my love and will be my love for the rest of my life. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Related Information:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.1300fillmore.com/\">1300 on Fillmore\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Address:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://goo.gl/maps/vTGMT\">Map\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n1300 Fillmore St.\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco CA 94115\u003cbr>\n(415) 771-7100\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Facebook:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/1300Fillmore\">1300 on Fillmore\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Twitter:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/1300onFillmore\">@1300onFillmore\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://blogs.kqed.org/checkplease/2012/09/19/1300-on-fillmore-restaurant-info/\">\u003cstrong>1300 on Fillmore\u003c/strong> was featured on KQED's Check, Please! Bay Area\u003c/a> in 2012.\u003cbr>\nWatch the restaurant segment from the show:\u003cbr>\n[youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gRgtpPcvnS0]\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Mary Ladd interviews Chef David Lawrence about his restaurant \"1300 on Fillmore\" which is known for fabulous grits, fried chicken and a lively Sunday Gospel brunch. ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_61665\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/chefdavidlawrence1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/chefdavidlawrence1000.jpg\" alt=\"Chef David Lawrence in the 1300 on Fillmore kitchen. Photo courtesy of 1300 Fillmore\" width=\"1000\" height=\"666\" class=\"size-full wp-image-61665\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef David Lawrence in the 1300 on Fillmore kitchen. Photo courtesy of 1300 Fillmore\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>At events like \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/07/03/a-festival-by-chefs-and-for-chefs-sf-chefs-lets-you-eat-drink-and-ogle-chefs-and-their-goods/\">SF Chefs\u003c/a>, we've noticed again and again that chef David Lawrence has culinary offerings that stand out. His \"Soulful American\" bites with roots in England and Jamaica include such dishes as shrimp grits and white grits with pesto, and organic skillet fried chicken, with an upscale twist. Lawrence's plates tend to demonstrate how the deep South can cozy up with fresh California produce, using classic French technique.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/fried_chicken_1300-Fillmore.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/fried_chicken_1300-Fillmore-290x192.jpg\" title=\"Fried chicken with blue cheese fondue. Photo courtesy of 1300 Fillmore\" alt=\"Fried chicken with blue cheese fondue. Photo courtesy of 1300 Fillmore\" width=\"290\" height=\"192\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-61673\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/ribeye1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/ribeye1000-290x193.jpg\" title=\"Ribeye. Photo courtesy of 1300 on Fillmore\" alt=\"Ribeye. Photo courtesy of 1300 on Fillmore\" width=\"290\" height=\"193\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-61694\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Since opening in 2007, Lawrence’s restaurant, \u003ca href=\"http://www.1300fillmore.com/\">1300 on Fillmore\u003c/a>, remains a draw for Sunday gospel brunch crowds, as well as those looking for a group dinner or bar snack--the fried chicken or skillet catfish; meaty ribeye; variety of grits and even warm chocolate beignets with coffee soda are almost begging to be shared. Lawrence, a London native, is 1300 on Fillmore’s executive chef and managing partner. He has cooked for royalty and was formally trained in the culinary arts at Westminster College. In 1982, Lawrence joined England's most celebrated and honored culinarians, Albert and Michel Roux, who were definitely considered \"celeb chefs\" there and were the chef-proprietors of the world-renowned \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/pages/Le-Gavroche/112349592115580?ref=ts&fref=ts\">Le Gavroche\u003c/a> and the \u003ca href=\"http://www.waterside-inn.co.uk/\">Waterside Inn\u003c/a> (at that time, both three-star Michelin restaurants). Lawrence cooked his way through five of their famous restaurants and became a sous chef, in four short years. In 1986, Lawrence became chef de cuisine at Interlude Restaurant in London, which gave him the sweet chance to make meals for none other than the Prince and Princess of Wales; Princess Margaret, Countess of Snowdon; and Prime Minister Margaret Thatcher.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He left for the U.S. in 1988 in a kismet vacation moment that led to chef de cuisine work with a former Le Gavroche chef named Kurt Graising who was opening \u003ca href=\"http://www.231ellsworth.com/\">231 Ellsworth Restaurant\u003c/a> in San Mateo. Lawrence next landed at the (ornate and beautiful) \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/carnelian-room-san-francisco\">Carnelian Room\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/cityscape-bar-and-restaurant-san-francisco\">Cityscape\u003c/a> restaurants in San Francisco, respectively. While at Cityscape, he created the Chefs for Kids program, which raised thousands of dollars for the Tenderloin After School program. Lawrence is also generous with his time for various local charity events. We caught up in person recently to find out more about his culinary style and career. His comments have been edited for length and clarity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/catfish1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/catfish1000-290x193.jpg\" title=\"Skillet catfish. Photo courtesy of 1300 on Fillmore\" alt=\"Skillet catfish. Photo courtesy of 1300 on Fillmore\" width=\"290\" height=\"193\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-61693\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/snapper1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/snapper1000-290x193.jpg\" title=\"Snapper. Photo courtesy of 1300 on Fillmore\" alt=\"Snapper. Photo courtesy of 1300 on Fillmore\" width=\"290\" height=\"193\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-61692\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Can you tell us about your successes & goals?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Lawrence:\u003c/strong> The restaurant just celebrated five years of business last October. When we opened the restaurant, it was all fanfare and then the economy crashed. We survived but had to cut back and there was no sous chef, and no general manager. My wife \u003ca href=\"http://newfillmore.com/fillmore-classics/magic-at-1300-fillmore/\">Monetta White\u003c/a> and I did all that. We we’re able to do so with the support of the city and the people who came in. I’m proud of what we’ve achieved. Now I’m looking at expanding. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Our gospel brunch is on Sunday. For Easter, we decided to try something different, and keep our hours to the daytime and not open at night. I saw hordes of people walking back up to Pacific Heights as they left brunch. Then when I went to Safeway, I saw a line of people, and there were families and kids walking down here. I remember when we first came here and Monetta lived at Bush and Fillmore. Back then, no one went below Bush Street. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/chef_pancake1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/chef_pancake1000.jpg\" title=\"Chef David Lawrence flipping a caramelized onion, yam-potato rosti (pancake). Photo courtesy of 1300 on Fillmore\" alt=\"Chef David Lawrence flipping a caramelized onion, yam-potato rosti (pancake). Photo courtesy of 1300 on Fillmore\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-61689\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/pancake1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/pancake1000-290x193.jpg\" title=\"Caramelized onion, yam-potato rosti (pancake). Photo courtesy of 1300 on Fillmore\" alt=\"Caramelized onion, yam-potato rosti (pancake). Photo courtesy of 1300 on Fillmore\" width=\"290\" height=\"193\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-61690\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/poachedeggchickenliver1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/poachedeggchickenliver1000-290x193.jpg\" width=\"290\" height=\"193\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-61691\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What are your best selling menu items...and your favorites?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Lawrence:\u003c/strong> For the best seller, it’s always the fried chicken. When I walk around and go out, people say that fried chicken is the bestseller. It is so funny because I come from Europe and have worked with Michelin-starred chefs. I have no complaints but my claim to fame is chicken. I just turned 50 in February, and it’s, “Wow, I’m 50 and known for fried chicken.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I am the most proud of dishes like shrimp and grits and fried chicken. The shrimp and grits dishes really got me to look at this cuisine and what we do. Monetta is from Mississippi and we’ve been together for 19 years. We have a similar thing in England where I am from that is cornmeal porridge: sugar, nutmeg, and spice to make it nice and creamy. I cooked the grits more or less the same way and decided to do it without the sugar. Slowly but surely, people became interested and back then, no one was doing this. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: As a chef and businessman, what would you like to be known for?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Lawrence:\u003c/strong> It’s a fine line doing both. I’ve seen many amazing chefs open restaurants and crash. I’ve seen many mediocre chefs succeed because of their business acumen. As a chef, you have to cook what your customers want instead of what your ego wants. It’s about getting that balance. With the restaurant’s earlier days, I had foie gras, lamb, and rabbit and it was great for me but I couldn’t sell it. I never wanted a hamburger but I put one on the menu because people want it. It’s about finding the fine line between your own ego and what makes sense and sells. That way, you can hopefully still enjoy what you do.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Guilty pleasure?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Lawrence:\u003c/strong> My thing is chocolate \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HobNob\">HobNobs\u003c/a>. You call them cookies, and I call them biscuits. I don’t buy them because I can’t eat just one. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Where do you live?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Lawrence:\u003c/strong> We live right above the restaurant. The commute is awesome. I love it. If I get five minutes for myself, I can go upstairs. It gives me just enough time to recharge my batteries. I can pop down if someone is here and wants to say hello, which is the least I can do if they have come all this way to eat at my restaurant. 1300 is my love and will be my love for the rest of my life. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Related Information:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.1300fillmore.com/\">1300 on Fillmore\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Address:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://goo.gl/maps/vTGMT\">Map\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n1300 Fillmore St.\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco CA 94115\u003cbr>\n(415) 771-7100\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Facebook:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/1300Fillmore\">1300 on Fillmore\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Twitter:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/1300onFillmore\">@1300onFillmore\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "NOLA Jazz Fest Stirs Food Memories for SF Chefs",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_61269\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/BAB-JF-1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/BAB-JF-1.jpg\" alt=\"Christine Christy, Haley Marquette and Olga Marquette of Patton’s Caterers serve a combo plate with crawfish beignets, crawfish sack and oyster patties. Credit: Tilde Herrera\" width=\"1000\" height=\"677\" class=\"size-full wp-image-61269\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Christine Christy, Haley Marquette and Olga Marquette of Patton’s Caterers serve a combo plate with crawfish beignets, crawfish sack and oyster patties, a favorite of Chuck Maddox, chef-owner of Cajun Pacific in San Francisco.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>A couple of months after moving from the San Francisco Bay Area to New Orleans back in 1981, Pierre \"Pete\" Hilzim was given the cooking chores at a dinner party. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He made a dish he'd been playing around with in his head, a combination of crawfish, pasta and a spiced cream reduction. He named it Crawfish Monica that night after his new wife, Monica Davidson.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Two years later, the pair, who started a food manufacturing business called \u003ca href=\"http://www.kajunkettle.com/\" title=\"Kajun Kettle Foods Inc.\" target=\"_blank\">Kajun Kettle Foods Inc.\u003c/a>, pitched the dish to the \u003ca href=\"http://www.nojazzfest.com/\" title=\"New Orleans Jazz and Heritage Festival\" target=\"_blank\">New Orleans Jazz and Heritage Festival\u003c/a>. It sold and sold, becoming a favorite of the masses, including many Bay Area chefs with Louisiana roots who shared with us their favorite Jazz Fest dishes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"It is a Jazz Fest sensation,\" says Chuck Maddox, chef-owner of \u003ca href=\"http://www.cajunpacific.com/\" title=\"Cajun Pacific\" target=\"_blank\">Cajun Pacific\u003c/a> in San Francisco. \"Mention Jazz Fest food and Crawfish Monica comes up immediately.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>The annual festival, now in its 43rd year, wraps up Sunday following two weekends of music that include international and local entertainers ranging from Billy Joel, the Black Keys and Dave Matthews Band to Rebirth Brass Band, Galactic and Trombone Shorty. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the festival is also known for food from nearly 70 vendors, who'll serve everything from gumbo and etouffeé to fried chicken and more than a dozen variations of the po' boy sandwich. In honor of the event, we asked Bay Area chefs for their most memorable Jazz Fest dishes. We noticed familiar themes -- and lots of emotion.\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"This is the food that I came up on,\" says Michael LeBlanc, a New Orleans native and owner of \u003ca href=\"http://www.picanrestaurant.com/\" title=\"Pican Restaurant\" target=\"_blank\">Picán Restaurant\u003c/a> in Oakland. \"It brings back memories of family, friends and distinct cultures -- the epitome of Laissez les bons temps rouler. This food inspired me to launch Picán.\" \u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Ronnie New, chef at \u003ca href=\"http://www.magnoliapub.com/\" title=\"Magnolia Gastropub and Brewery\" target=\"_blank\">Magnolia Gastropub and Brewery\u003c/a> in San Francisco, says it's hard to go wrong with anything he eats at the festival. He is now in New Orleans, attending Jazz Fest's second weekend.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I may be biased but I truly think it's by far the best food at any festival,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Below are their favorites, in no particular order. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Crawfish Monica\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_61272\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/BAB-JF-2.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/BAB-JF-2.jpg\" alt=\"blend of picked crawfish, rotini pasta and a spiced cream reduction. Photo credit: Tilde Herrera\" width=\"1000\" height=\"666\" class=\"size-full wp-image-61272\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Crawfish Monica is a blend of crawfish, rotini pasta and a spiced cream reduction.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>This year's festival marked the 30th anniversary of Crawfish Monica's first appearance at the festival. It's a favorite of \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/10/14/qa-with-the-boxing-room%E2%80%99s-executive-chef-justin-simoneaux/\">Justin Simoneaux\u003c/a>, chef at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.boxingroom.com/\" title=\"Boxing Room\" target=\"_blank\">Boxing Room\u003c/a>, Brenda Buenviaje, chef-owner of \u003ca href=\"http://frenchsoulfood.com/\" title=\"Brenda's French Soul Food\" target=\"_blank\">Brenda's French Soul Food\u003c/a>, and New, of Magnolia. \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"We've fed this stuff to four presidents, Pope John Paul and all kinds of people,\" says Hilzim. \"It's taken us places neither of us would have gone without it.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>He predicts he'll sell enough Crawfish Monica to fill a semi-truck during the seven days of Jazz Fest.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Simoneaux is featuring a dish inspired by Crawfish Monica at the Boxing Room this weekend. You can also find Creole crawfish and pasta on the menu at Cajun Pacific (Maddox once called the dish Crawfish Monica until he received a very nice letter from Hilzim's company.). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There is also the possibility that Hilzim and Davidson will serve Crawfish Monica at this summer's \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfoutsidelands.com/home/\" title=\"Outside Lands\" target=\"_blank\">Outside Lands\u003c/a> in San Francisco, being held August 9-11. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Soft Shell Crab Po' Boy\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_61273\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/BAB-JF-3.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/BAB-JF-3.jpg\" alt=\"These soft shell crab po' boys are made with crabs from throughout the Gulf of Mexico region, including Lake Pontchartrain, Hopedale, La., and Florida. Photo credit: Tilde Herrera\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-61273\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">These soft shell crab po' boys are made with crabs from throughout the Gulf of Mexico, including Lake Pontchartrain, Hopedale, La., and Florida.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Dennis and Vicky Patania have been selling soft shell crab po' boys at the festival for 36 years. The soft shell crabs are dipped in the \u003ca href=\"http://www.thegalleyseafood.com/\" title=\"Galley Seafood Restaurant\" target=\"_blank\">Galley Seafood Restaurant\u003c/a>'s house batter of cornmeal and spices before landing on a \u003ca href=\"http://www.leidenheimer.com/\" title=\"Leidenheimer Baking Company\" target=\"_blank\">Leidenheimer French roll\u003c/a> with nothing but a couple slices of pickle.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We don't put any filler, no lettuce or tomato,\" says Vicky Patania. \"We also have (on the side) homemade tartar sauce, ketchup, hot sauce, lemon juice and butter. A lot of people don't want lettuce and tomato because they want to taste the crab.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The soft shell crabs are only available twice a year, Patania says, the result of crabs shedding their hard shells. \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"Soft shell crab really is like a miracle seafood,\" she says. \u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Nothing says Jazz Fest to Maddox of Cajun Pacific more than a soft shell crab po' boy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's the very beginning of crab season and the burst of juicy crab flavor and crispy fried crunch means summer is on its way,\" he says. \"We won't see soft shell crabs for another three weeks in San Francisco until the Chesapeake crab season starts. They are the ultimate po' boy for me.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He'll serve his rendition at \u003ca href=\"http://www.cajunpacific.com/\">Cajun Pacific\u003c/a> in the next few weeks through the summer. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Crawfish Bread\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_61275\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/BAB-JF-4.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/BAB-JF-4.jpg\" alt=\"John Ed Laborde first made sausage bread, but thought crawfish would make a fine substitution. Photo credit: Tilde Herrera\" width=\"1000\" height=\"666\" class=\"size-full wp-image-61275\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">John Ed Laborde first made sausage bread, but thought crawfish would make a fine substitution.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>While nothing reminds Maddox of Jazz Fest like a soft shell crab po' boy, the crawfish bread has the same effect on several Bay Area chefs. It's the best, says Mitch Rosenthal, co-owner of several Bay Area restaurants, including the Southern-themed \u003ca href=\"http://www.townhallsf.com/\" title=\"Town Hall\" target=\"_blank\">Town Hall\u003c/a> in San Francisco. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I only see it at Jazz Fest,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The crawfish bread was the inspiration behind the crawfish beignets at Brenda's in San Francisco, according to Buenviaje. Simoneaux also added it to the Boxing Room's menu through Sunday.\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"If I had to pick a favorite it would have to be crawfish bread, because I enjoy the kick and the cheesiness of the filling and it’s also much easier to eat in a festival environment,\" Siminouex says in an email.\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>John Ed Laborde is flattered that the recipe he invented decades ago has made such an impression on people. It took years of petitioning Jazz Fest organizers before he finally received permission to sell the crawfish bread because it was an original recipe, not an indigenous food that is part of Louisiana's culinary heritage. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He cooks and cools the crawfish tails before adding spices, onions and four types of cheese. The filling is rolled into a basic yeast dough and baked. Laborde goes through about 6,000 pounds of crawfish during Jazz Fest.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Twenty-seven years ago, it was exactly the same way it is today,\" Laborde says. \"It is handmade in Marksville, La. I have about 15 ladies with rolling pins, they measure out the dough, they portion out the ingredients and each one is handmade. That's why not every one is exactly the same.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Hot Sausage Po' Boy\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_61277\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/BAB-JF-5.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/BAB-JF-5.jpg\" alt=\"Vaucresson Sausage Co. has been making Creole sausages since 1899. It was one of Jazz Fest's original food vendors. Photo credit: Tilde Herrera\" width=\"1000\" height=\"718\" class=\"size-full wp-image-61277\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Vaucresson Sausage Co. has been making Creole sausages since 1899. It was one of Jazz Fest's original food vendors.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>When LeBlanc of Picán heads to Jazz Fest, his makes a beeline for a po' boy made with a hot sausage or crawfish sausage from \u003ca href=\"http://www.vaucressonsausage.com/\" title=\"Vaucresson Sausage Co.\" target=\"_blank\">Vaucresson Sausage Co.,\u003c/a> which has sold sausage po' boys at Jazz Fest since 1970, its inaugural year. \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"Over the course of the seven days, we're selling thousands of pounds of sausage,\" says President Vance Vaucresson, a third-generation Creole sausage maker.\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Over the years, the family has brought variations of other sausages to the festival -- turkey sausage, green onion sausage and turkey andouille, to name a few -- but its hot sausage po' boy has been a mainstay. It's a fresh, all-pork Creole sausage made with spices and fresh vegetables, such as garlic, green onion and bell peppers, served on a roll with lettuce and tomato. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He's not shipping sausages directly to any restaurants on the West Coast, but anyone can order the sausage from the Vaucresson website. Beware: As with shipping any perishable product halfway across the country, shipping costs can be hefty.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Cochon de Lait Po' Boy:\u003c/strong> \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_61283\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/BAB-JF-CDL.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/BAB-JF-CDL.jpg\" alt=\"The legendary cochon de lait po' boy from the Love at First Bite catering company often sells out at Jazz Fest. Photo credit: Tilde Herrera\" width=\"1000\" height=\"668\" class=\"size-full wp-image-61283\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The legendary cochon de lait po' boy from Love at First Bite catering company often sells out at Jazz Fest.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>When he visits Jazz Fest, New of Magnolia usually doesn't leave without eating a cochon de lait po' boy, a sandwich \u003ca href=\"http://www.esquire.com/features/food-drink/sandwiches\" title=\"Esquire Magazine\" target=\"_blank\">named one of the best sandwiches in the U.S.\u003c/a> by Esquire Magazine in 2008.\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"It's pretty simple roasted pork with chunks of crispy skin,\" says New, who sometimes features a cochon de lait po' boy on the menu at Magnolia during the Mardi Gras season.\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Wanda Walker has sold cochon de lait po' boys at Jazz Fest since 2000. \u003ca href=\"http://blog.nola.com/judywalker/2008/04/wanda_walker_keeps_her_cool_wh.html\" title=\"New Orleans Times-Picayune\" target=\"_blank\">According to the New Orleans Times-Picayune\u003c/a>, Walker and her catering company, \u003ca href=\"http://www.cochondelaitpoboys.com/\" title=\"Love at First Bite\" target=\"_blank\">Love at First Bite\u003c/a>, prepare the cochon de lait -- French for suckling pig -- by slowly smoking a ton of pork butt over hickory for 12 hours. A mound of the shredded pork sits atop cabbage and horseradish sauce on French bread. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Pheasant, Quail and Andouille Gumbo \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_61281\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/BAB-JF-7.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/BAB-JF-7.jpg\" alt=\"Bob Guilbeau only makes this particular gumbo for Jazz Fest. At his restaurant in Lafayette, La., he serves a seafood gumbo, shrimp gumbo, chicken and sausage gumbo, and smoked duck and andouille gumbo. Photo credit: Tilde Herrera\" width=\"1000\" height=\"699\" class=\"size-full wp-image-61281\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bob Guilbeau only makes this particular gumbo for Jazz Fest. At his restaurant in Lafayette, La., he serves a seafood gumbo, shrimp gumbo, chicken and sausage gumbo, and smoked duck and andouille gumbo.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Bob Guilbeau, the founder of \u003ca href=\"http://prejeans.com/\" title=\"Prejean's Restaurant\" target=\"_blank\">Prejean’s Restaurant\u003c/a> in Lafayette, La., calls this recipe a gift from above. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Back in the early 1990s, he held several gumbo dinners in Arkansas as a thank you gesture for the help and supplies his community received from the Natural State after Hurricane Andrew. His hosts told him to only bring his roux and spices and they'd furnish the major ingredients. In a 500-gallon crawfish boiler, he and his staff made gumbo with a chicken base instead of salt (he forgot to bring it) and boneless, skinless chicken thighs, another first. \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\n\"The chef and I looked at it, smelled it, tasted it and realized we had never cooked a gumbo that good in our whole lives,\" Guilbeau says. \"It was a gift from God.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Much of the flavor comes from a dark, silky and nutty roux spiked with a blend of peppers and tender chunks of pheasant, quail and andouille sausage. He cooks the gumbo in 30 gallon batches for Jazz Fest at the restaurant. He's been selling the stuff at the festival for 20 years.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"This year,\" Guilbeau says, \"we prepared over 1,000 gallons.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>You can catch a live stream of Jazz Fest online through May 5 at \u003ca href=\"http://www.wwoz.org/\" title=\"WWOZ\">WWOZ\u003c/a>, as well as live TV coverage at \u003ca href=\"http://www.axs.tv/jazzfest/\" title=\"AXS TV\" target=\"_blank\">AXS TV\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "In honor of the New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival, being held through May 5, we asked Bay Area chefs with Louisiana roots for their favorite Jazz Fest dishes. ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_61269\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/BAB-JF-1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/BAB-JF-1.jpg\" alt=\"Christine Christy, Haley Marquette and Olga Marquette of Patton’s Caterers serve a combo plate with crawfish beignets, crawfish sack and oyster patties. Credit: Tilde Herrera\" width=\"1000\" height=\"677\" class=\"size-full wp-image-61269\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Christine Christy, Haley Marquette and Olga Marquette of Patton’s Caterers serve a combo plate with crawfish beignets, crawfish sack and oyster patties, a favorite of Chuck Maddox, chef-owner of Cajun Pacific in San Francisco.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>A couple of months after moving from the San Francisco Bay Area to New Orleans back in 1981, Pierre \"Pete\" Hilzim was given the cooking chores at a dinner party. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He made a dish he'd been playing around with in his head, a combination of crawfish, pasta and a spiced cream reduction. He named it Crawfish Monica that night after his new wife, Monica Davidson.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Two years later, the pair, who started a food manufacturing business called \u003ca href=\"http://www.kajunkettle.com/\" title=\"Kajun Kettle Foods Inc.\" target=\"_blank\">Kajun Kettle Foods Inc.\u003c/a>, pitched the dish to the \u003ca href=\"http://www.nojazzfest.com/\" title=\"New Orleans Jazz and Heritage Festival\" target=\"_blank\">New Orleans Jazz and Heritage Festival\u003c/a>. It sold and sold, becoming a favorite of the masses, including many Bay Area chefs with Louisiana roots who shared with us their favorite Jazz Fest dishes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"It is a Jazz Fest sensation,\" says Chuck Maddox, chef-owner of \u003ca href=\"http://www.cajunpacific.com/\" title=\"Cajun Pacific\" target=\"_blank\">Cajun Pacific\u003c/a> in San Francisco. \"Mention Jazz Fest food and Crawfish Monica comes up immediately.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>The annual festival, now in its 43rd year, wraps up Sunday following two weekends of music that include international and local entertainers ranging from Billy Joel, the Black Keys and Dave Matthews Band to Rebirth Brass Band, Galactic and Trombone Shorty. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the festival is also known for food from nearly 70 vendors, who'll serve everything from gumbo and etouffeé to fried chicken and more than a dozen variations of the po' boy sandwich. In honor of the event, we asked Bay Area chefs for their most memorable Jazz Fest dishes. We noticed familiar themes -- and lots of emotion.\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"This is the food that I came up on,\" says Michael LeBlanc, a New Orleans native and owner of \u003ca href=\"http://www.picanrestaurant.com/\" title=\"Pican Restaurant\" target=\"_blank\">Picán Restaurant\u003c/a> in Oakland. \"It brings back memories of family, friends and distinct cultures -- the epitome of Laissez les bons temps rouler. This food inspired me to launch Picán.\" \u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Ronnie New, chef at \u003ca href=\"http://www.magnoliapub.com/\" title=\"Magnolia Gastropub and Brewery\" target=\"_blank\">Magnolia Gastropub and Brewery\u003c/a> in San Francisco, says it's hard to go wrong with anything he eats at the festival. He is now in New Orleans, attending Jazz Fest's second weekend.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I may be biased but I truly think it's by far the best food at any festival,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Below are their favorites, in no particular order. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Crawfish Monica\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_61272\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/BAB-JF-2.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/BAB-JF-2.jpg\" alt=\"blend of picked crawfish, rotini pasta and a spiced cream reduction. Photo credit: Tilde Herrera\" width=\"1000\" height=\"666\" class=\"size-full wp-image-61272\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Crawfish Monica is a blend of crawfish, rotini pasta and a spiced cream reduction.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>This year's festival marked the 30th anniversary of Crawfish Monica's first appearance at the festival. It's a favorite of \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/10/14/qa-with-the-boxing-room%E2%80%99s-executive-chef-justin-simoneaux/\">Justin Simoneaux\u003c/a>, chef at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.boxingroom.com/\" title=\"Boxing Room\" target=\"_blank\">Boxing Room\u003c/a>, Brenda Buenviaje, chef-owner of \u003ca href=\"http://frenchsoulfood.com/\" title=\"Brenda's French Soul Food\" target=\"_blank\">Brenda's French Soul Food\u003c/a>, and New, of Magnolia. \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"We've fed this stuff to four presidents, Pope John Paul and all kinds of people,\" says Hilzim. \"It's taken us places neither of us would have gone without it.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>He predicts he'll sell enough Crawfish Monica to fill a semi-truck during the seven days of Jazz Fest.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Simoneaux is featuring a dish inspired by Crawfish Monica at the Boxing Room this weekend. You can also find Creole crawfish and pasta on the menu at Cajun Pacific (Maddox once called the dish Crawfish Monica until he received a very nice letter from Hilzim's company.). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There is also the possibility that Hilzim and Davidson will serve Crawfish Monica at this summer's \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfoutsidelands.com/home/\" title=\"Outside Lands\" target=\"_blank\">Outside Lands\u003c/a> in San Francisco, being held August 9-11. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Soft Shell Crab Po' Boy\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_61273\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/BAB-JF-3.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/BAB-JF-3.jpg\" alt=\"These soft shell crab po' boys are made with crabs from throughout the Gulf of Mexico region, including Lake Pontchartrain, Hopedale, La., and Florida. Photo credit: Tilde Herrera\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-61273\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">These soft shell crab po' boys are made with crabs from throughout the Gulf of Mexico, including Lake Pontchartrain, Hopedale, La., and Florida.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Dennis and Vicky Patania have been selling soft shell crab po' boys at the festival for 36 years. The soft shell crabs are dipped in the \u003ca href=\"http://www.thegalleyseafood.com/\" title=\"Galley Seafood Restaurant\" target=\"_blank\">Galley Seafood Restaurant\u003c/a>'s house batter of cornmeal and spices before landing on a \u003ca href=\"http://www.leidenheimer.com/\" title=\"Leidenheimer Baking Company\" target=\"_blank\">Leidenheimer French roll\u003c/a> with nothing but a couple slices of pickle.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We don't put any filler, no lettuce or tomato,\" says Vicky Patania. \"We also have (on the side) homemade tartar sauce, ketchup, hot sauce, lemon juice and butter. A lot of people don't want lettuce and tomato because they want to taste the crab.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The soft shell crabs are only available twice a year, Patania says, the result of crabs shedding their hard shells. \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"Soft shell crab really is like a miracle seafood,\" she says. \u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Nothing says Jazz Fest to Maddox of Cajun Pacific more than a soft shell crab po' boy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's the very beginning of crab season and the burst of juicy crab flavor and crispy fried crunch means summer is on its way,\" he says. \"We won't see soft shell crabs for another three weeks in San Francisco until the Chesapeake crab season starts. They are the ultimate po' boy for me.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He'll serve his rendition at \u003ca href=\"http://www.cajunpacific.com/\">Cajun Pacific\u003c/a> in the next few weeks through the summer. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Crawfish Bread\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_61275\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/BAB-JF-4.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/BAB-JF-4.jpg\" alt=\"John Ed Laborde first made sausage bread, but thought crawfish would make a fine substitution. Photo credit: Tilde Herrera\" width=\"1000\" height=\"666\" class=\"size-full wp-image-61275\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">John Ed Laborde first made sausage bread, but thought crawfish would make a fine substitution.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>While nothing reminds Maddox of Jazz Fest like a soft shell crab po' boy, the crawfish bread has the same effect on several Bay Area chefs. It's the best, says Mitch Rosenthal, co-owner of several Bay Area restaurants, including the Southern-themed \u003ca href=\"http://www.townhallsf.com/\" title=\"Town Hall\" target=\"_blank\">Town Hall\u003c/a> in San Francisco. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I only see it at Jazz Fest,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The crawfish bread was the inspiration behind the crawfish beignets at Brenda's in San Francisco, according to Buenviaje. Simoneaux also added it to the Boxing Room's menu through Sunday.\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"If I had to pick a favorite it would have to be crawfish bread, because I enjoy the kick and the cheesiness of the filling and it’s also much easier to eat in a festival environment,\" Siminouex says in an email.\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>John Ed Laborde is flattered that the recipe he invented decades ago has made such an impression on people. It took years of petitioning Jazz Fest organizers before he finally received permission to sell the crawfish bread because it was an original recipe, not an indigenous food that is part of Louisiana's culinary heritage. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He cooks and cools the crawfish tails before adding spices, onions and four types of cheese. The filling is rolled into a basic yeast dough and baked. Laborde goes through about 6,000 pounds of crawfish during Jazz Fest.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Twenty-seven years ago, it was exactly the same way it is today,\" Laborde says. \"It is handmade in Marksville, La. I have about 15 ladies with rolling pins, they measure out the dough, they portion out the ingredients and each one is handmade. That's why not every one is exactly the same.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Hot Sausage Po' Boy\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_61277\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/BAB-JF-5.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/BAB-JF-5.jpg\" alt=\"Vaucresson Sausage Co. has been making Creole sausages since 1899. It was one of Jazz Fest's original food vendors. Photo credit: Tilde Herrera\" width=\"1000\" height=\"718\" class=\"size-full wp-image-61277\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Vaucresson Sausage Co. has been making Creole sausages since 1899. It was one of Jazz Fest's original food vendors.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>When LeBlanc of Picán heads to Jazz Fest, his makes a beeline for a po' boy made with a hot sausage or crawfish sausage from \u003ca href=\"http://www.vaucressonsausage.com/\" title=\"Vaucresson Sausage Co.\" target=\"_blank\">Vaucresson Sausage Co.,\u003c/a> which has sold sausage po' boys at Jazz Fest since 1970, its inaugural year. \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"Over the course of the seven days, we're selling thousands of pounds of sausage,\" says President Vance Vaucresson, a third-generation Creole sausage maker.\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Over the years, the family has brought variations of other sausages to the festival -- turkey sausage, green onion sausage and turkey andouille, to name a few -- but its hot sausage po' boy has been a mainstay. It's a fresh, all-pork Creole sausage made with spices and fresh vegetables, such as garlic, green onion and bell peppers, served on a roll with lettuce and tomato. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He's not shipping sausages directly to any restaurants on the West Coast, but anyone can order the sausage from the Vaucresson website. Beware: As with shipping any perishable product halfway across the country, shipping costs can be hefty.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Cochon de Lait Po' Boy:\u003c/strong> \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_61283\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/BAB-JF-CDL.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/BAB-JF-CDL.jpg\" alt=\"The legendary cochon de lait po' boy from the Love at First Bite catering company often sells out at Jazz Fest. Photo credit: Tilde Herrera\" width=\"1000\" height=\"668\" class=\"size-full wp-image-61283\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The legendary cochon de lait po' boy from Love at First Bite catering company often sells out at Jazz Fest.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>When he visits Jazz Fest, New of Magnolia usually doesn't leave without eating a cochon de lait po' boy, a sandwich \u003ca href=\"http://www.esquire.com/features/food-drink/sandwiches\" title=\"Esquire Magazine\" target=\"_blank\">named one of the best sandwiches in the U.S.\u003c/a> by Esquire Magazine in 2008.\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"It's pretty simple roasted pork with chunks of crispy skin,\" says New, who sometimes features a cochon de lait po' boy on the menu at Magnolia during the Mardi Gras season.\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Wanda Walker has sold cochon de lait po' boys at Jazz Fest since 2000. \u003ca href=\"http://blog.nola.com/judywalker/2008/04/wanda_walker_keeps_her_cool_wh.html\" title=\"New Orleans Times-Picayune\" target=\"_blank\">According to the New Orleans Times-Picayune\u003c/a>, Walker and her catering company, \u003ca href=\"http://www.cochondelaitpoboys.com/\" title=\"Love at First Bite\" target=\"_blank\">Love at First Bite\u003c/a>, prepare the cochon de lait -- French for suckling pig -- by slowly smoking a ton of pork butt over hickory for 12 hours. A mound of the shredded pork sits atop cabbage and horseradish sauce on French bread. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Pheasant, Quail and Andouille Gumbo \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_61281\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/BAB-JF-7.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/BAB-JF-7.jpg\" alt=\"Bob Guilbeau only makes this particular gumbo for Jazz Fest. At his restaurant in Lafayette, La., he serves a seafood gumbo, shrimp gumbo, chicken and sausage gumbo, and smoked duck and andouille gumbo. Photo credit: Tilde Herrera\" width=\"1000\" height=\"699\" class=\"size-full wp-image-61281\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bob Guilbeau only makes this particular gumbo for Jazz Fest. At his restaurant in Lafayette, La., he serves a seafood gumbo, shrimp gumbo, chicken and sausage gumbo, and smoked duck and andouille gumbo.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Bob Guilbeau, the founder of \u003ca href=\"http://prejeans.com/\" title=\"Prejean's Restaurant\" target=\"_blank\">Prejean’s Restaurant\u003c/a> in Lafayette, La., calls this recipe a gift from above. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Back in the early 1990s, he held several gumbo dinners in Arkansas as a thank you gesture for the help and supplies his community received from the Natural State after Hurricane Andrew. His hosts told him to only bring his roux and spices and they'd furnish the major ingredients. In a 500-gallon crawfish boiler, he and his staff made gumbo with a chicken base instead of salt (he forgot to bring it) and boneless, skinless chicken thighs, another first. \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\n\"The chef and I looked at it, smelled it, tasted it and realized we had never cooked a gumbo that good in our whole lives,\" Guilbeau says. \"It was a gift from God.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Much of the flavor comes from a dark, silky and nutty roux spiked with a blend of peppers and tender chunks of pheasant, quail and andouille sausage. He cooks the gumbo in 30 gallon batches for Jazz Fest at the restaurant. He's been selling the stuff at the festival for 20 years.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"This year,\" Guilbeau says, \"we prepared over 1,000 gallons.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>You can catch a live stream of Jazz Fest online through May 5 at \u003ca href=\"http://www.wwoz.org/\" title=\"WWOZ\">WWOZ\u003c/a>, as well as live TV coverage at \u003ca href=\"http://www.axs.tv/jazzfest/\" title=\"AXS TV\" target=\"_blank\">AXS TV\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Chef Edward Lee Adds Korean Spice To Southern Comfort Food",
"title": "Chef Edward Lee Adds Korean Spice To Southern Comfort Food",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_61228\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/edward-lee-headshot.-credit-dan-dry_sq-fe199e159820705d851853e5ef3b6ebaf217fc56-s40.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/edward-lee-headshot.-credit-dan-dry_sq-fe199e159820705d851853e5ef3b6ebaf217fc56-s40.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Edward Lee moved to Louisville, Ky., 10 years ago to take over a restaurant called 610 Magnolia. There, he mixes the sweet of Southern food with the salt and umami of Asian cuisine. Photo: Dan Dry/Artisan Books.\" width=\"1120\" height=\"1121\" class=\"size-full wp-image-61228\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Edward Lee moved to Louisville, Ky., 10 years ago to take over a restaurant called 610 Magnolia. There, he mixes the sweet of Southern food with the salt and umami of Asian cuisine. Photo: Dan Dry/Artisan Books.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/05/03/180334026/chef-edward-lee-adds-korean-spice-to-southern-comfort-food\">Morning Edition\u003c/a> [audio src=\"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2013/05/20130503_me_19.mp3\"] \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Post by Lydia Zuraw, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/05/03/180334026/chef-edward-lee-adds-korean-spice-to-southern-comfort-food\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (05/03/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Korean and Southern food may not seem like a natural pair. But now it's one more example of traditions emulsifying in the great American melting pot. Korean-American chef \u003ca href=\"http://chefedwardlee.com/bio/\">Edward Lee\u003c/a> makes that case with his new cookbook \u003cem>Smoke and Pickles: Recipes and Stories From a New Southern Kitchen\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fusion cooking comes naturally to Lee: He grew up in an immigrant neighborhood of Brooklyn surrounded by Jamaicans, Indians, Iranians and Jews.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"When they immigrated to America, my parents deliberately decided they weren't going to live in the big Korean enclaves,\" Lee tells \u003cem>Morning Edition\u003c/em> host David Greene. \"They wanted to spread out and be amongst other people. That education in cuisine, ranging from so many different immigrant groups probably left more of a lasting impression on me in cuisine than anything else.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Their whole thing was 'You're an American. Be an American,' \" Lee says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Korean food was a way Lee connected with his grandmother. She rarely spoke of Korea because she didn't have very happy memories, he says, but \"food was the one thing that was kind of sacred and pure and hadn't been torn apart.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_61229\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 250px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/jacket-smoke-and-pickles_custom-81a07bcc08f7f834a9d2cee2223da2cc755705df-s3.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/jacket-smoke-and-pickles_custom-81a07bcc08f7f834a9d2cee2223da2cc755705df-s3.jpg\" alt=\"Edward Lee's first cookbook, <em>Smoke and Pickles: Recipes and Stories From a New Southern Kitchen, </em>features Korean-southern comfort food. <br /><figcaption class=\" wp-caption-text>Photo: Artisan Books\" width=\"250\" class=\"size-full wp-image-61229\" />\u003c/a> Edward Lee's first cookbook, \u003cem>Smoke and Pickles: Recipes and Stories From a New Southern Kitchen, \u003c/em>features Korean-southern comfort food. \u003cbr>Photo: Artisan Books.\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As a kid, Lee says he would hang out with her in the kitchen, and at first, she ignored him. \"I would, little by little, start helping her with things,\" he says. \"She got very annoyed by that at first. She's like, 'You're a man. You're not supposed to be here learning how to make kimchi — that's women's work.' \"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Over the years, he says, they developed a strong bond that relied on few words.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Korean food was also how Lee established himself as a chef. In 1998 he opened a restaurant in Manhattan called Clay, which attracted a clientele that included plenty of celebrities. But the excitement wore off quickly.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Everything seemed right on paper: Korean kid opens Korean restaurant,\" he says. \"But it just didn't feel right to me, and I wasn't incredibly proud of the food. I felt like it was just an extension of what I thought people wanted me to cook.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He started to re-evaluate things and decided to travel around the country. The farthest his family had traveled in his childhood was New Jersey. \"That was huge for us,\" he says. \"Although I grew up in America and I was influenced by all of the things that other Americans are, I had no idea what America was. It was this vast unknown beyond New Jersey.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So in 2001 Lee went to places like Wisconsin and Washington, D.C., for the first time. And it was in Louisville at the Kentucky Derby that he fell in love with the South.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Within a year he had moved there to take over a restaurant called \u003ca href=\"http://610magnolia.com/\">610 Magnolia\u003c/a> and the fusion instinct kicked in. He started mixing Korean spice with Southern comfort food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Southern food tends to be a little bit on the sweeter side. Asian food tends to be a little bit on the saltier, kind of \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=16066892\">umami\u003c/a> side,\" Lee says. \"When they work and you put them together, they are actually are a wonderful marriage.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Grits, for example, reminded Lee of congee, a rice porridge Koreans usually eat with soy sauce and seafood. So Lee came up with a recipe for lamb braised in soy sauce and served over grits, transforming the sweet taste of the corn into something new.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Or take fried chicken. Koreans actually have a long tradition of frying chicken, Lee says. They just have a slightly different method of preparing the chicken for frying. \"The results are almost similar, but it's just different pathways to the same place,\" he says. \"And I find that a lot in Asian cuisine and Southern cuisine.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Related Stories\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2013/05/03/180588273/recipes-from-smoke-pickles\">Recipes from \u003cem>Smoke & Pickles\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/05/03/180334026/chef-edward-lee-adds-korean-spice-to-southern-comfort-food\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Edward Lee's culinary education spans the multi-ethnic immigrant neighborhood of Brooklyn where he grew up to his Korean grandmother's kitchen. His cookbook showcases recipes like lamb braised with soy sauce served over grits and Korean fried chicken.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_61228\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/edward-lee-headshot.-credit-dan-dry_sq-fe199e159820705d851853e5ef3b6ebaf217fc56-s40.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/edward-lee-headshot.-credit-dan-dry_sq-fe199e159820705d851853e5ef3b6ebaf217fc56-s40.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Edward Lee moved to Louisville, Ky., 10 years ago to take over a restaurant called 610 Magnolia. There, he mixes the sweet of Southern food with the salt and umami of Asian cuisine. Photo: Dan Dry/Artisan Books.\" width=\"1120\" height=\"1121\" class=\"size-full wp-image-61228\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Edward Lee moved to Louisville, Ky., 10 years ago to take over a restaurant called 610 Magnolia. There, he mixes the sweet of Southern food with the salt and umami of Asian cuisine. Photo: Dan Dry/Artisan Books.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/05/03/180334026/chef-edward-lee-adds-korean-spice-to-southern-comfort-food\">Morning Edition\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Post by Lydia Zuraw, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/05/03/180334026/chef-edward-lee-adds-korean-spice-to-southern-comfort-food\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (05/03/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Korean and Southern food may not seem like a natural pair. But now it's one more example of traditions emulsifying in the great American melting pot. Korean-American chef \u003ca href=\"http://chefedwardlee.com/bio/\">Edward Lee\u003c/a> makes that case with his new cookbook \u003cem>Smoke and Pickles: Recipes and Stories From a New Southern Kitchen\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fusion cooking comes naturally to Lee: He grew up in an immigrant neighborhood of Brooklyn surrounded by Jamaicans, Indians, Iranians and Jews.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"When they immigrated to America, my parents deliberately decided they weren't going to live in the big Korean enclaves,\" Lee tells \u003cem>Morning Edition\u003c/em> host David Greene. \"They wanted to spread out and be amongst other people. That education in cuisine, ranging from so many different immigrant groups probably left more of a lasting impression on me in cuisine than anything else.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Their whole thing was 'You're an American. Be an American,' \" Lee says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Korean food was a way Lee connected with his grandmother. She rarely spoke of Korea because she didn't have very happy memories, he says, but \"food was the one thing that was kind of sacred and pure and hadn't been torn apart.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_61229\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 250px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/jacket-smoke-and-pickles_custom-81a07bcc08f7f834a9d2cee2223da2cc755705df-s3.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/jacket-smoke-and-pickles_custom-81a07bcc08f7f834a9d2cee2223da2cc755705df-s3.jpg\" alt=\"Edward Lee's first cookbook, <em>Smoke and Pickles: Recipes and Stories From a New Southern Kitchen, </em>features Korean-southern comfort food. <br /><figcaption class=\" wp-caption-text>Photo: Artisan Books\" width=\"250\" class=\"size-full wp-image-61229\" />\u003c/a> Edward Lee's first cookbook, \u003cem>Smoke and Pickles: Recipes and Stories From a New Southern Kitchen, \u003c/em>features Korean-southern comfort food. \u003cbr>Photo: Artisan Books.\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As a kid, Lee says he would hang out with her in the kitchen, and at first, she ignored him. \"I would, little by little, start helping her with things,\" he says. \"She got very annoyed by that at first. She's like, 'You're a man. You're not supposed to be here learning how to make kimchi — that's women's work.' \"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Over the years, he says, they developed a strong bond that relied on few words.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Korean food was also how Lee established himself as a chef. In 1998 he opened a restaurant in Manhattan called Clay, which attracted a clientele that included plenty of celebrities. But the excitement wore off quickly.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Everything seemed right on paper: Korean kid opens Korean restaurant,\" he says. \"But it just didn't feel right to me, and I wasn't incredibly proud of the food. I felt like it was just an extension of what I thought people wanted me to cook.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He started to re-evaluate things and decided to travel around the country. The farthest his family had traveled in his childhood was New Jersey. \"That was huge for us,\" he says. \"Although I grew up in America and I was influenced by all of the things that other Americans are, I had no idea what America was. It was this vast unknown beyond New Jersey.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So in 2001 Lee went to places like Wisconsin and Washington, D.C., for the first time. And it was in Louisville at the Kentucky Derby that he fell in love with the South.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Within a year he had moved there to take over a restaurant called \u003ca href=\"http://610magnolia.com/\">610 Magnolia\u003c/a> and the fusion instinct kicked in. He started mixing Korean spice with Southern comfort food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Southern food tends to be a little bit on the sweeter side. Asian food tends to be a little bit on the saltier, kind of \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=16066892\">umami\u003c/a> side,\" Lee says. \"When they work and you put them together, they are actually are a wonderful marriage.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Grits, for example, reminded Lee of congee, a rice porridge Koreans usually eat with soy sauce and seafood. So Lee came up with a recipe for lamb braised in soy sauce and served over grits, transforming the sweet taste of the corn into something new.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Or take fried chicken. Koreans actually have a long tradition of frying chicken, Lee says. They just have a slightly different method of preparing the chicken for frying. \"The results are almost similar, but it's just different pathways to the same place,\" he says. \"And I find that a lot in Asian cuisine and Southern cuisine.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Related Stories\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2013/05/03/180588273/recipes-from-smoke-pickles\">Recipes from \u003cem>Smoke & Pickles\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/05/03/180334026/chef-edward-lee-adds-korean-spice-to-southern-comfort-food\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Art as Food as Art: Caitlin Freeman and her \"Modern Art Desserts\"",
"title": "Art as Food as Art: Caitlin Freeman and her \"Modern Art Desserts\"",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60359\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Freeman_Caitlin1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Freeman_Caitlin1000.jpg\" alt=\"Caitlin Freeman. Photo: Charles Villyard\" width=\"1000\" height=\"664\" class=\"size-full wp-image-60359\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Caitlin Freeman. Photo: Charles Villyard\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Andy Warhol as Jell-O, Jeff Koons as a gilded white hot chocolate, and Cindy Sherman as a pink ice cream float dusted with glitter are just a few of the edible art concepts cooked up by Caitlin Freeman, an artist who creates confections and fancy snacks based on special exhibitions at SFMOMA. Her new book, \"Modern Art Desserts,\" details recipes and stories from her self-made dream job: responding to art through food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Modern-Art-Desserts-Recipes-Confections/dp/1607743906\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Free_Modern-Art-Desserts600.jpg\" alt=\"Modern Art Desserts by Caitlin Freeman\" width=\"400\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-60357\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Freeman co-owned Miette pastry shops before opening the \u003ca href=\"http://www.bluebottlecoffee.com/\">Blue Bottle Coffee\u003c/a> bar at SFMOMA’s rooftop garden with her husband \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/07/30/bay-area-coffee-roasters-food-wine-this-week/\">James\u003c/a>. From Miette, she brought along artist and pastry chef \u003ca href=\"http://www.leahrosenberg.com\">Leah Rosenberg\u003c/a>, and assistant Tess Wilson. The team’s desserts are innovative, creative and sometimes controversial. A cookie plate inspired by Richard Serra’s massive steel sculptures is likely the \u003ca href=\"http://www.bluebottlecoffee.com/2013/04/setting-the-serra-story-straight/\">first dessert to have ever received a cease and desist letter\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Thiebaud-Pink-Cake600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Thiebaud-Pink-Cake600-190x190.jpg\" title=\"Thiebaud Pink Cake\" alt=\"Thiebaud Pink Cake. Photo: Clay McLachlan (c) 2013\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-60362\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Sherman-Ice-Cream-Float600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Sherman-Ice-Cream-Float600-190x190.jpg\" title=\"Sherman Ice Cream Float\" alt=\"Sherman Ice Cream Float. Photo: Clay McLachlan (c) 2013\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-60361\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Koons-White-Hot-Chocolate600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Koons-White-Hot-Chocolate600-190x190.jpg\" title=\"Koons White Hot Chocolate with Lillet Marshmallows\" alt=\"Koons White Hot Chocolate with Lillet Marshmallows. Photo: Clay McLachlan (c) 2013\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-60360\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Freeman credits painter \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/arts/programs/spark/profile.jsp?essid=24225\">Wayne Thiebaud\u003c/a> with inspiring her to become a baker, and says the book is a love letter to him. Her favorite cakes to bake are buttercream party cakes, and that’s exactly what Thiebaud is known for painting. The two cake-loving artists haven’t met yet, but Freeman throws a birthday party for him every year at the cafe. Besides her most popular cakes modeled after works by Thiebaud and Piet Mondrian, 70 modern art desserts have been created over the past four years. Textile artist Ruth Laskey’s two-color weavings became conceptual sodas where flavors were assigned to each color, creating combinations like \u003ca href=\"http://www.epicurious.com/recipes/food/views/Laskey-Lemon-Soda-with-Bay-Ice-Cubes-51159600\">lemon soda with bay ice cubes\u003c/a>, and bubblegum soda (made from Dubble Bubble gum concentrate) with violet ice cubes. Freeman was interested in the overlap between colors and flavors, a concept that went through some trial and error when she focused on Andy Warhol’s self portrait in green, blue, red, and yellow. She tried to make a Bloody Mary gelée and explains, “I didn’t want to use food coloring but I figured we could use blue curacao. We made Campbell’s tomato soup Jell-O, celery, horseradish and Worcester Jell-O, and it was revolting. It shouldn’t be a surprise, but that was the one recipe that didn’t really work out.” Her aversion to food coloring had to be overcome for her Mondrian cake, a chocolate ganache grid with primary-colored cake blocks, but she’s not the only one who is wary of unnatural-looking cake dye. She says, “People easily gobble up the yellow and red, but often they’ll leave the blue square on the plate.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60486\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/winogrand-cake1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/winogrand-cake1000.jpg\" alt=\"Dessert is based on Garry Winogrand's "Kerrville, Texas" (1977). Photo: Willa Koerner.\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-60486\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dessert is based on Garry Winogrand's \"Kerrville, Texas\" (1977). Photo: Willa Koerner.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Freeman’s latest concoction, inspired by a \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/arts/visualarts/article.jsp?essid=117645\">Gary Winogrand\u003c/a> photograph, is an ambitious multimedia project. As she describes it, “The piece we chose is these two people dancing on a platform that looks just like an ice cream cake. So we’re making this ridiculous multimedia cake that involves Stevie Wonder’s “Sir Duke” playing from an MP3 player inside the plate, which happened to be the number seventeen song the year the photo was taken, and looks exactly like the song they would’ve been dancing to. We’ll have two images laser-cut as cake toppers that will be dancing on the cake.” The desserts are often conceptual, and sometimes literal, like the Jasper Johns-inspired grilled cheese that looks like his piece, \u003ca href=\"http://www.washingtonpost.com/rf/image_606w/2010-2019/WashingtonPost/2012/05/29/Style/Images/KENNCOTT002_1338319201.jpg\">Bread\u003c/a>. As Freeman describes the project, “The piece is a lead panel with a piece of bread on it, so we made a grilled cheese and served it on a to-scale board painted to look like lead. It was a giant, oversized board people would have to carry back to their table.” She likes that her creations can help make the art more accessible, and says that when she walks into a gallery of California painters, “especially Diebenkorn and Thiebaud,” she often wants to take the paintings home, and says: \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>“Making desserts is my way of owning something, of really pretending that I’m stealing it, and making it my own.”\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>[vimeo 63069294] \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Modern-Art-Desserts-Recipes-Confections/dp/1607743906\">Modern Art Desserts\u003c/a>\" was released this month by Ten Speed Press. Freeman’s Mondrian cakes will soon be available for purchase online (available for delivery, packed in dry ice). Keep up with her projects at \u003ca href=\"http://www.modernartdesserts.com/\">modernartdesserts.com\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Photos of desserts reprinted with permission from Modern Art Desserts: Recipes for Cakes, Cookies, Confections, and Frozen Treats Based on Iconic Works of Art, by Caitlin Freeman, copyright (c) 2013. Published by Ten Speed Press, a division of Random House, Inc. Photo credit: Clay McLachlan (c) 2013\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Cailtlin Freeman's new book details the drama and recipes behind her self-made dream job: responding to SFMOMA's art through food. ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60359\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Freeman_Caitlin1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Freeman_Caitlin1000.jpg\" alt=\"Caitlin Freeman. Photo: Charles Villyard\" width=\"1000\" height=\"664\" class=\"size-full wp-image-60359\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Caitlin Freeman. Photo: Charles Villyard\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Andy Warhol as Jell-O, Jeff Koons as a gilded white hot chocolate, and Cindy Sherman as a pink ice cream float dusted with glitter are just a few of the edible art concepts cooked up by Caitlin Freeman, an artist who creates confections and fancy snacks based on special exhibitions at SFMOMA. Her new book, \"Modern Art Desserts,\" details recipes and stories from her self-made dream job: responding to art through food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Modern-Art-Desserts-Recipes-Confections/dp/1607743906\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Free_Modern-Art-Desserts600.jpg\" alt=\"Modern Art Desserts by Caitlin Freeman\" width=\"400\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-60357\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Freeman co-owned Miette pastry shops before opening the \u003ca href=\"http://www.bluebottlecoffee.com/\">Blue Bottle Coffee\u003c/a> bar at SFMOMA’s rooftop garden with her husband \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/07/30/bay-area-coffee-roasters-food-wine-this-week/\">James\u003c/a>. From Miette, she brought along artist and pastry chef \u003ca href=\"http://www.leahrosenberg.com\">Leah Rosenberg\u003c/a>, and assistant Tess Wilson. The team’s desserts are innovative, creative and sometimes controversial. A cookie plate inspired by Richard Serra’s massive steel sculptures is likely the \u003ca href=\"http://www.bluebottlecoffee.com/2013/04/setting-the-serra-story-straight/\">first dessert to have ever received a cease and desist letter\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Thiebaud-Pink-Cake600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Thiebaud-Pink-Cake600-190x190.jpg\" title=\"Thiebaud Pink Cake\" alt=\"Thiebaud Pink Cake. Photo: Clay McLachlan (c) 2013\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-60362\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Sherman-Ice-Cream-Float600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Sherman-Ice-Cream-Float600-190x190.jpg\" title=\"Sherman Ice Cream Float\" alt=\"Sherman Ice Cream Float. Photo: Clay McLachlan (c) 2013\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-60361\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Koons-White-Hot-Chocolate600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Koons-White-Hot-Chocolate600-190x190.jpg\" title=\"Koons White Hot Chocolate with Lillet Marshmallows\" alt=\"Koons White Hot Chocolate with Lillet Marshmallows. Photo: Clay McLachlan (c) 2013\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-60360\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Freeman credits painter \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/arts/programs/spark/profile.jsp?essid=24225\">Wayne Thiebaud\u003c/a> with inspiring her to become a baker, and says the book is a love letter to him. Her favorite cakes to bake are buttercream party cakes, and that’s exactly what Thiebaud is known for painting. The two cake-loving artists haven’t met yet, but Freeman throws a birthday party for him every year at the cafe. Besides her most popular cakes modeled after works by Thiebaud and Piet Mondrian, 70 modern art desserts have been created over the past four years. Textile artist Ruth Laskey’s two-color weavings became conceptual sodas where flavors were assigned to each color, creating combinations like \u003ca href=\"http://www.epicurious.com/recipes/food/views/Laskey-Lemon-Soda-with-Bay-Ice-Cubes-51159600\">lemon soda with bay ice cubes\u003c/a>, and bubblegum soda (made from Dubble Bubble gum concentrate) with violet ice cubes. Freeman was interested in the overlap between colors and flavors, a concept that went through some trial and error when she focused on Andy Warhol’s self portrait in green, blue, red, and yellow. She tried to make a Bloody Mary gelée and explains, “I didn’t want to use food coloring but I figured we could use blue curacao. We made Campbell’s tomato soup Jell-O, celery, horseradish and Worcester Jell-O, and it was revolting. It shouldn’t be a surprise, but that was the one recipe that didn’t really work out.” Her aversion to food coloring had to be overcome for her Mondrian cake, a chocolate ganache grid with primary-colored cake blocks, but she’s not the only one who is wary of unnatural-looking cake dye. She says, “People easily gobble up the yellow and red, but often they’ll leave the blue square on the plate.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60486\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/winogrand-cake1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/winogrand-cake1000.jpg\" alt=\"Dessert is based on Garry Winogrand's "Kerrville, Texas" (1977). Photo: Willa Koerner.\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-60486\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dessert is based on Garry Winogrand's \"Kerrville, Texas\" (1977). Photo: Willa Koerner.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Freeman’s latest concoction, inspired by a \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/arts/visualarts/article.jsp?essid=117645\">Gary Winogrand\u003c/a> photograph, is an ambitious multimedia project. As she describes it, “The piece we chose is these two people dancing on a platform that looks just like an ice cream cake. So we’re making this ridiculous multimedia cake that involves Stevie Wonder’s “Sir Duke” playing from an MP3 player inside the plate, which happened to be the number seventeen song the year the photo was taken, and looks exactly like the song they would’ve been dancing to. We’ll have two images laser-cut as cake toppers that will be dancing on the cake.” The desserts are often conceptual, and sometimes literal, like the Jasper Johns-inspired grilled cheese that looks like his piece, \u003ca href=\"http://www.washingtonpost.com/rf/image_606w/2010-2019/WashingtonPost/2012/05/29/Style/Images/KENNCOTT002_1338319201.jpg\">Bread\u003c/a>. As Freeman describes the project, “The piece is a lead panel with a piece of bread on it, so we made a grilled cheese and served it on a to-scale board painted to look like lead. It was a giant, oversized board people would have to carry back to their table.” She likes that her creations can help make the art more accessible, and says that when she walks into a gallery of California painters, “especially Diebenkorn and Thiebaud,” she often wants to take the paintings home, and says: \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>“Making desserts is my way of owning something, of really pretending that I’m stealing it, and making it my own.”\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Modern-Art-Desserts-Recipes-Confections/dp/1607743906\">Modern Art Desserts\u003c/a>\" was released this month by Ten Speed Press. Freeman’s Mondrian cakes will soon be available for purchase online (available for delivery, packed in dry ice). Keep up with her projects at \u003ca href=\"http://www.modernartdesserts.com/\">modernartdesserts.com\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Photos of desserts reprinted with permission from Modern Art Desserts: Recipes for Cakes, Cookies, Confections, and Frozen Treats Based on Iconic Works of Art, by Caitlin Freeman, copyright (c) 2013. Published by Ten Speed Press, a division of Random House, Inc. Photo credit: Clay McLachlan (c) 2013\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"info": "What kind of no sabo word is Hyphenación? For us, it’s about living within a hyphenation. Like being a third-gen Mexican-American from the Texas border now living that Bay Area Chicano life. Like Xorje! Each week we bring together a couple of hyphenated Latinos to talk all about personal life choices: family, careers, relationships, belonging … everything is on the table. ",
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"info": "Our flagship program, helmed by Kai Ryssdal, examines what the day in money delivered, through stories, conversations, newsworthy numbers and more. Updated Monday through Friday at about 3:30 p.m. PT.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 4pm-4:30pm, MON-WED 6:30pm-7pm",
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"mindshift": {
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"info": "The MindShift podcast explores the innovations in education that are shaping how kids learn. Hosts Ki Sung and Katrina Schwartz introduce listeners to educators, researchers, parents and students who are developing effective ways to improve how kids learn. We cover topics like how fed-up administrators are developing surprising tactics to deal with classroom disruptions; how listening to podcasts are helping kids develop reading skills; the consequences of overparenting; and why interdisciplinary learning can engage students on all ends of the traditional achievement spectrum. This podcast is part of the MindShift education site, a division of KQED News. KQED is an NPR/PBS member station based in San Francisco. You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>",
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"order": 12
},
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM1NzY0NjAwNDI5",
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"tagline": "Deeply-reported investigative journalism",
"info": "For decades, the process for how police police themselves has been inconsistent – if not opaque. In some states, like California, these proceedings were completely hidden. After a new police transparency law unsealed scores of internal affairs files, our reporters set out to examine these cases and the shadow world of police discipline. On Our Watch brings listeners into the rooms where officers are questioned and witnesses are interrogated to find out who this system is really protecting. Is it the officers, or the public they've sworn to serve?",
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"on-the-media": {
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"info": "Our weekly podcast explores how the media 'sausage' is made, casts an incisive eye on fluctuations in the marketplace of ideas, and examines threats to the freedom of information and expression in America and abroad. For one hour a week, the show tries to lift the veil from the process of \"making media,\" especially news media, because it's through that lens that we see the world and the world sees us",
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},
"pbs-newshour": {
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},
"perspectives": {
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"order": 14
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"info": "The economy explained. Imagine you could call up a friend and say, Meet me at the bar and tell me what's going on with the economy. Now imagine that's actually a fun evening.",
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"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/planetmoney.jpg",
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"politicalbreakdown": {
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"title": "Political Breakdown",
"tagline": "Politics from a personal perspective",
"info": "Political Breakdown is a new series that explores the political intersection of California and the nation. Each week hosts Scott Shafer and Marisa Lagos are joined with a new special guest to unpack politics -- with personality — and offer an insider’s glimpse at how politics happens.",
"airtime": "THU 6:30pm-7pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Political-Breakdown-2024-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
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"order": 5
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"possible": {
"id": "possible",
"title": "Possible",
"info": "Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.",
"airtime": "SUN 2pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Possible-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.possible.fm/",
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"source": "Possible"
},
"link": "/radio/program/possible",
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"spotify": "https://open.spotify.com/show/730YpdUSNlMyPQwNnyjp4k"
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},
"pri-the-world": {
"id": "pri-the-world",
"title": "PRI's The World: Latest Edition",
"info": "Each weekday, host Marco Werman and his team of producers bring you the world's most interesting stories in an hour of radio that reminds us just how small our planet really is.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 2pm-3pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/The-World-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
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},
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},
"radiolab": {
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"imageURL": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/Nav-News-Nov2026ElectionCoverage@2x-7bd4aad4.png",
"description": "Get informed in minutes with our Voter Guide for California’s November 3 election."
},
"podcasts-radio": {},
"video-tv": {},
"events": {},
"support": {}
}
}
}
