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"content": "\u003cp>In the hierarchy of foods that pair perfectly with a hit of \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/marijuana\">weed\u003c/a>, a cheesy, hot slice of pizza has to rank among the most iconic — right up there with other stoner faves like \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fzRvMylDVi8\">White Castle\u003c/a>, ice cream and Flamin’ Hot Cheetos.\u003c/p>\n\n\n\n\u003cp>It shouldn’t come as any surprise, then, that one of the Bay Area’s most promising new pizza pop-ups would be stationed in front of a Richmond cannabis shop. Every Sunday and Monday, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/7starshhc_/\">7 Stars Holistic Healing Center\u003c/a> regulars line up at the little tented food stand right outside the dispensary to snag a piping-hot, oil-slicked pepperoni or whipped ricotta pizza. It’s some of the tastiest East Coast–style you can find in this stretch of the East Bay.\u003c/p>\n\n\n\n\u003cp>The pop-up is called \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/goldpieig/\">Goldpie\u003c/a>, and it’s the brainchild of Scott Hataye, whose day job is as a “budtender” at 7 Stars. For the past seven years, though, he’s also dabbled in the pizza world, moonlighting as the doughmaker at Emeryville’s Rotten City Pizza, a New York–inspired pizza restaurant that closed last summer after an impressive 17-year run. (When I first moved to the East Bay in the late aughts, Rotten City was the closest thing I could find to a proper New York slice shop.)\u003c/p>\n\n\n\n\u003cp>“I love that pizza and actually really, really miss it,” Hataye says of his time at the restaurant. \u003c/p>\n\n\n\n\u003cfigure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1334\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/goldpie-tent.jpg\" alt=\"A food tent set up in front of a marijuana dispensary.\" class=\"wp-image-13990182\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/goldpie-tent.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/goldpie-tent-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/goldpie-tent-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/goldpie-tent-1536x1025.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Goldpie proprietor Scott Hataye’s day job is as a “budtender” at 7 Stars. (Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\n\n\n\u003cp>When Rotten City closed last June, he took it as a sign that maybe it was time for him to launch his own pizza business. There’s a bit of Rotten City Pizza in the bones of Hataye’s pies, mostly in terms of the dough, which he says is \u003cem>very \u003c/em>similar to Rotten City’s, made with a blend of Central Milling 00 flour and bread flour and cold-fermented for up to 72 hours. The biggest difference, Hataye says, is that he makes a denser, richer red sauce, by cooking down Bianco DiNapoli brand crushed tomatoes (Rotten City was a \u003ca href=\"https://eastbayexpress.com/rotten-city-pizzas-bicoastal-tendencies-1/\">raw sauce\u003c/a> pizzeria). And because he bakes the pizzas in portable Gozney mini pizza ovens, which get as hot as 1,000 degrees, they’re smaller and less floppy than your classic foldable New York pizza. They’re about 12 to 13 inches in diameter, the perfect size for one hungry pizza eater (or two slightly daintier ones). \u003c/p>\n\n\n\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The finished product is a stylistic hybrid, Hataye says — sort of a cross between Neapolitan, New York, New Haven and Chicago-style tavern pizzas. \u003c/p>\n\n\n\n\u003cp>The important thing is that Goldpie’s pizza is legitimately tasty. The top of each pie is slicked with oil, and the crust is quite thin and crunchy-bottomed, with dark blistered spots verging on burnt toward the edges — in a really delicious way, if you’re a fan of that charred flavor, as I am. \u003c/p>\n\n\n\n\u003cfigure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/goldpie-heaven.jpg\" alt=\"A whole pepperoni pizza inside a foil-lined cardboard pizza box.\" class=\"wp-image-13990183\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/goldpie-heaven.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/goldpie-heaven-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/goldpie-heaven-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/goldpie-heaven-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">The “Heaven on Earth” features pesto, cupping pepperoni, hot honey and crsipy fried garlic. (Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\n\n\n\u003cp>I loved the “Heaven on Earth,” with its salty-sweet palette of pepperoni, pesto, hot honey and fried garlic. The sausage pie, meanwhile, was a more straightforward East Coast–style pizza — an ideal union of oozy cheese, zesty tomato sauce and a flavorful, crispy-chewy crust.\u003c/p>\n\n\n\n\u003cp>Other top sellers include the classic pepperoni and the “Brooklyn” (garlic, olive oil, whipped ricotta), which is Hataye’s take on a New York–style white pie. \u003ca href=\"https://www.7starshhc.com/blog/goldpie-pizza\">Whichever pizza you order\u003c/a>, make sure to ask for a little tub of the housemade candied jalapeños — a truly excellent pizza condiment.\u003c/p>\n\n\n\n\u003cp>Hataye says a few customers have asked whether he ever infuses marijuana into his food (he doesn’t), but in general, he doesn’t have any intention of veering toward gimmicky “pothead pizza.” \u003c/p>\n\n\n\n\u003cp>“I think they’re pretty satisfied with the pizzas as they are,” he says.\u003c/p>\n\n\n\n\u003cfigure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/goldpie-table.jpg\" alt=\"A painting of a cartoon horse and dog propped up on an outdoor table.\" class=\"wp-image-13990184\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/goldpie-table.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/goldpie-table-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/goldpie-table-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/goldpie-table-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">There’s a table set up next to the Goldpie tent where pizza eaters can “dine in” if they like. (Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\n\n\n\u003cp>In the end, the best part of the experience is the fact that Hataye and Mike Bennally (a former Rotten City general manager who helps out on pop-up days) make every pizza to order right in front of you, tossing and stretching the dough, and then lovingly tending to each pie the entire time it’s in the oven. \u003c/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n\u003cp>That level of personal care has started to pay off. Slowly but surely, a nice little community has formed around Goldpie, as more and more customers who aren’t even affiliated with the dispensary now go out of their way to visit the pop-up. Some wind up staying to eat at the table that Hataye has set up outside, watching one of the \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/DX5wmSOhE8r/\">’80s and ’90s cult classic movies\u003c/a> they have playing at all times.\u003c/p>\n\n\n\n\u003cp>Eventually, Hataye says he would love to turn that community into a full-blown restaurant, though for now he’s mostly focused on just getting the word out about the pop-up. But he and Bennally have already talked about the prospect of opening a brick-and-mortar pizzeria of their own — maybe in Pinole — some time in the next year.\u003c/p>\n\n\n\n\u003cp>“I would love to be able to do that,” he says.\u003c/p>\n\n\n\n\u003chr class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity\">\n\n\n\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/goldpieig/\">\u003cem>Goldpie\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem> pops up outside 7 Stars Holistic Healing Center, at 3219 Pierce St. in Richmond (across the street from the 99 Ranch Market plaza) on Sundays and Mondays, 11:30 a.m.–7:30 p.m. They currently sell \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"https://www.7starshhc.com/blog/goldpie-pizza\">\u003cem>whole pizzas only\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem>, for $15–$20 a pie. Customers can call or text 510-529-5007 if they want to place their orders ahead of time.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\n\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"innerHTML": "\n\u003cp>In the hierarchy of foods that pair perfectly with a hit of \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/marijuana\">weed\u003c/a>, a cheesy, hot slice of pizza has to rank among the most iconic — right up there with other stoner faves like \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fzRvMylDVi8\">White Castle\u003c/a>, ice cream and Flamin’ Hot Cheetos.\u003c/p>\n",
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"\n\u003cp>In the hierarchy of foods that pair perfectly with a hit of \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/marijuana\">weed\u003c/a>, a cheesy, hot slice of pizza has to rank among the most iconic — right up there with other stoner faves like \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fzRvMylDVi8\">White Castle\u003c/a>, ice cream and Flamin’ Hot Cheetos.\u003c/p>\n"
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"innerHTML": "\n\u003cp>It shouldn’t come as any surprise, then, that one of the Bay Area’s most promising new pizza pop-ups would be stationed in front of a Richmond cannabis shop. Every Sunday and Monday, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/7starshhc_/\">7 Stars Holistic Healing Center\u003c/a> regulars line up at the little tented food stand right outside the dispensary to snag a piping-hot, oil-slicked pepperoni or whipped ricotta pizza. It’s some of the tastiest East Coast–style you can find in this stretch of the East Bay.\u003c/p>\n",
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"\n\u003cp>It shouldn’t come as any surprise, then, that one of the Bay Area’s most promising new pizza pop-ups would be stationed in front of a Richmond cannabis shop. Every Sunday and Monday, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/7starshhc_/\">7 Stars Holistic Healing Center\u003c/a> regulars line up at the little tented food stand right outside the dispensary to snag a piping-hot, oil-slicked pepperoni or whipped ricotta pizza. It’s some of the tastiest East Coast–style you can find in this stretch of the East Bay.\u003c/p>\n"
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"innerHTML": "\n\u003cp>The pop-up is called \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/goldpieig/\">Goldpie\u003c/a>, and it’s the brainchild of Scott Hataye, whose day job is as a “budtender” at 7 Stars. For the past seven years, though, he’s also dabbled in the pizza world, moonlighting as the doughmaker at Emeryville’s Rotten City Pizza, a New York–inspired pizza restaurant that closed last summer after an impressive 17-year run. (When I first moved to the East Bay in the late aughts, Rotten City was the closest thing I could find to a proper New York slice shop.)\u003c/p>\n",
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"\n\u003cp>The pop-up is called \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/goldpieig/\">Goldpie\u003c/a>, and it’s the brainchild of Scott Hataye, whose day job is as a “budtender” at 7 Stars. For the past seven years, though, he’s also dabbled in the pizza world, moonlighting as the doughmaker at Emeryville’s Rotten City Pizza, a New York–inspired pizza restaurant that closed last summer after an impressive 17-year run. (When I first moved to the East Bay in the late aughts, Rotten City was the closest thing I could find to a proper New York slice shop.)\u003c/p>\n"
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"innerHTML": "\n\u003cp>“I love that pizza and actually really, really miss it,” Hataye says of his time at the restaurant. \u003c/p>\n",
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"\n\u003cp>“I love that pizza and actually really, really miss it,” Hataye says of his time at the restaurant. \u003c/p>\n"
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"innerHTML": "\n\u003cfigure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\">\u003cimg src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/goldpie-tent.jpg\" alt=\"A food tent set up in front of a marijuana dispensary.\" class=\"wp-image-13990182\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/goldpie-tent.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/goldpie-tent-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/goldpie-tent-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/goldpie-tent-1536x1025.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(min-width: 992px) min(100vw, 1536px), (min-width: 768px) min(100vw, 1280px), min(100vw, 1020px)\" />\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Goldpie proprietor Scott Hataye’s day job is as a “budtender” at 7 Stars.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n",
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"\n\u003cfigure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\">\u003cimg src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/goldpie-tent.jpg\" alt=\"A food tent set up in front of a marijuana dispensary.\" class=\"wp-image-13990182\" />\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Goldpie proprietor Scott Hataye’s day job is as a “budtender” at 7 Stars.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n"
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"innerHTML": "\n\u003cp>When Rotten City closed last June, he took it as a sign that maybe it was time for him to launch his own pizza business. There’s a bit of Rotten City Pizza in the bones of Hataye’s pies, mostly in terms of the dough, which he says is \u003cem>very \u003c/em>similar to Rotten City’s, made with a blend of Central Milling 00 flour and bread flour and cold-fermented for up to 72 hours. The biggest difference, Hataye says, is that he makes a denser, richer red sauce, by cooking down Bianco DiNapoli brand crushed tomatoes (Rotten City was a \u003ca href=\"https://eastbayexpress.com/rotten-city-pizzas-bicoastal-tendencies-1/\">raw sauce\u003c/a> pizzeria). And because he bakes the pizzas in portable Gozney mini pizza ovens, which get as hot as 1,000 degrees, they’re smaller and less floppy than your classic foldable New York pizza. They’re about 12 to 13 inches in diameter, the perfect size for one hungry pizza eater (or two slightly daintier ones). \u003c/p>\n",
"innerContent": [
"\n\u003cp>When Rotten City closed last June, he took it as a sign that maybe it was time for him to launch his own pizza business. There’s a bit of Rotten City Pizza in the bones of Hataye’s pies, mostly in terms of the dough, which he says is \u003cem>very \u003c/em>similar to Rotten City’s, made with a blend of Central Milling 00 flour and bread flour and cold-fermented for up to 72 hours. The biggest difference, Hataye says, is that he makes a denser, richer red sauce, by cooking down Bianco DiNapoli brand crushed tomatoes (Rotten City was a \u003ca href=\"https://eastbayexpress.com/rotten-city-pizzas-bicoastal-tendencies-1/\">raw sauce\u003c/a> pizzeria). And because he bakes the pizzas in portable Gozney mini pizza ovens, which get as hot as 1,000 degrees, they’re smaller and less floppy than your classic foldable New York pizza. They’re about 12 to 13 inches in diameter, the perfect size for one hungry pizza eater (or two slightly daintier ones). \u003c/p>\n"
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"innerHTML": "\n\u003cp>The finished product is a stylistic hybrid, Hataye says — sort of a cross between Neapolitan, New York, New Haven and Chicago-style tavern pizzas. \u003c/p>\n",
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"\n\u003cp>The finished product is a stylistic hybrid, Hataye says — sort of a cross between Neapolitan, New York, New Haven and Chicago-style tavern pizzas. \u003c/p>\n"
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"innerHTML": "\n\u003cp>The important thing is that Goldpie’s pizza is legitimately tasty. The top of each pie is slicked with oil, and the crust is quite thin and crunchy-bottomed, with dark blistered spots verging on burnt toward the edges — in a really delicious way, if you’re a fan of that charred flavor, as I am. \u003c/p>\n",
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"\n\u003cp>The important thing is that Goldpie’s pizza is legitimately tasty. The top of each pie is slicked with oil, and the crust is quite thin and crunchy-bottomed, with dark blistered spots verging on burnt toward the edges — in a really delicious way, if you’re a fan of that charred flavor, as I am. \u003c/p>\n"
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"srcset": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/goldpie-heaven.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/goldpie-heaven-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/goldpie-heaven-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/goldpie-heaven-1536x1024.jpg 1536w",
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"innerHTML": "\n\u003cfigure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\">\u003cimg src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/goldpie-heaven.jpg\" alt=\"A whole pepperoni pizza inside a foil-lined cardboard pizza box.\" class=\"wp-image-13990183\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/goldpie-heaven.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/goldpie-heaven-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/goldpie-heaven-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/goldpie-heaven-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(min-width: 992px) min(100vw, 1536px), (min-width: 768px) min(100vw, 1280px), min(100vw, 1020px)\" />\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">The “Heaven on Earth” features pesto, cupping pepperoni, hot honey and crsipy fried garlic.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n",
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"\n\u003cfigure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\">\u003cimg src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/goldpie-heaven.jpg\" alt=\"A whole pepperoni pizza inside a foil-lined cardboard pizza box.\" class=\"wp-image-13990183\" />\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">The “Heaven on Earth” features pesto, cupping pepperoni, hot honey and crsipy fried garlic.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n"
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"innerHTML": "\n\u003cp>I loved the “Heaven on Earth,” with its salty-sweet palette of pepperoni, pesto, hot honey and fried garlic. The sausage pie, meanwhile, was a more straightforward East Coast–style pizza — an ideal union of oozy cheese, zesty tomato sauce and a flavorful, crispy-chewy crust.\u003c/p>\n",
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"\n\u003cp>I loved the “Heaven on Earth,” with its salty-sweet palette of pepperoni, pesto, hot honey and fried garlic. The sausage pie, meanwhile, was a more straightforward East Coast–style pizza — an ideal union of oozy cheese, zesty tomato sauce and a flavorful, crispy-chewy crust.\u003c/p>\n"
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"innerHTML": "\n\u003cp>Other top sellers include the classic pepperoni and the “Brooklyn” (garlic, olive oil, whipped ricotta), which is Hataye’s take on a New York–style white pie. \u003ca href=\"https://www.7starshhc.com/blog/goldpie-pizza\">Whichever pizza you order\u003c/a>, make sure to ask for a little tub of the housemade candied jalapeños — a truly excellent pizza condiment.\u003c/p>\n",
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"\n\u003cp>Other top sellers include the classic pepperoni and the “Brooklyn” (garlic, olive oil, whipped ricotta), which is Hataye’s take on a New York–style white pie. \u003ca href=\"https://www.7starshhc.com/blog/goldpie-pizza\">Whichever pizza you order\u003c/a>, make sure to ask for a little tub of the housemade candied jalapeños — a truly excellent pizza condiment.\u003c/p>\n"
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"innerHTML": "\n\u003cp>Hataye says a few customers have asked whether he ever infuses marijuana into his food (he doesn’t), but in general, he doesn’t have any intention of veering toward gimmicky “pothead pizza.” \u003c/p>\n",
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"\n\u003cp>Hataye says a few customers have asked whether he ever infuses marijuana into his food (he doesn’t), but in general, he doesn’t have any intention of veering toward gimmicky “pothead pizza.” \u003c/p>\n"
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"innerHTML": "\n\u003cp>“I think they’re pretty satisfied with the pizzas as they are,” he says.\u003c/p>\n",
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"innerHTML": "\n\u003cp>In the end, the best part of the experience is the fact that Hataye and Mike Bennally (a former Rotten City general manager who helps out on pop-up days) make every pizza to order right in front of you, tossing and stretching the dough, and then lovingly tending to each pie the entire time it’s in the oven. \u003c/p>\n",
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"innerHTML": "\n\u003cp>That level of personal care has started to pay off. Slowly but surely, a nice little community has formed around Goldpie, as more and more customers who aren’t even affiliated with the dispensary now go out of their way to visit the pop-up. Some wind up staying to eat at the table that Hataye has set up outside, watching one of the \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/DX5wmSOhE8r/\">’80s and ’90s cult classic movies\u003c/a> they have playing at all times.\u003c/p>\n",
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"innerHTML": "\n\u003cp>Eventually, Hataye says he would love to turn that community into a full-blown restaurant, though for now he’s mostly focused on just getting the word out about the pop-up. But he and Bennally have already talked about the prospect of opening a brick-and-mortar pizzeria of their own — maybe in Pinole — some time in the next year.\u003c/p>\n",
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"\n\u003cp>Eventually, Hataye says he would love to turn that community into a full-blown restaurant, though for now he’s mostly focused on just getting the word out about the pop-up. But he and Bennally have already talked about the prospect of opening a brick-and-mortar pizzeria of their own — maybe in Pinole — some time in the next year.\u003c/p>\n"
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"innerHTML": "\n\u003cp>“I would love to be able to do that,” he says.\u003c/p>\n",
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"innerHTML": "\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/goldpieig/\">\u003cem>Goldpie\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem> pops up outside 7 Stars Holistic Healing Center, at 3219 Pierce St. in Richmond (across the street from the 99 Ranch Market plaza) on Sundays and Mondays, 11:30 a.m.–7:30 p.m. They currently sell \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"https://www.7starshhc.com/blog/goldpie-pizza\">\u003cem>whole pizzas only\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem>, for $15–$20 a pie. Customers can call or text 510-529-5007 if they want to place their orders ahead of time.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n",
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"excerpt": "Goldpie pops up Sundays and Mondays at the 7 Stars Holistic Healing Center.",
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"title": "A New Pizza Pop-up at an East Bay Weed Dispensary Takes Off | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>In the hierarchy of foods that pair perfectly with a hit of \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/marijuana\">weed\u003c/a>, a cheesy, hot slice of pizza has to rank among the most iconic — right up there with other stoner faves like \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fzRvMylDVi8\">White Castle\u003c/a>, ice cream and Flamin’ Hot Cheetos.\u003c/p>\n\n\n\n\u003cp>It shouldn’t come as any surprise, then, that one of the Bay Area’s most promising new pizza pop-ups would be stationed in front of a Richmond cannabis shop. Every Sunday and Monday, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/7starshhc_/\">7 Stars Holistic Healing Center\u003c/a> regulars line up at the little tented food stand right outside the dispensary to snag a piping-hot, oil-slicked pepperoni or whipped ricotta pizza. It’s some of the tastiest East Coast–style you can find in this stretch of the East Bay.\u003c/p>\n\n\n\n\u003cp>The pop-up is called \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/goldpieig/\">Goldpie\u003c/a>, and it’s the brainchild of Scott Hataye, whose day job is as a “budtender” at 7 Stars. For the past seven years, though, he’s also dabbled in the pizza world, moonlighting as the doughmaker at Emeryville’s Rotten City Pizza, a New York–inspired pizza restaurant that closed last summer after an impressive 17-year run. (When I first moved to the East Bay in the late aughts, Rotten City was the closest thing I could find to a proper New York slice shop.)\u003c/p>\n\n\n\n\u003cp>“I love that pizza and actually really, really miss it,” Hataye says of his time at the restaurant. \u003c/p>\n\n\n\n\u003cfigure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1334\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/goldpie-tent.jpg\" alt=\"A food tent set up in front of a marijuana dispensary.\" class=\"wp-image-13990182\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/goldpie-tent.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/goldpie-tent-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/goldpie-tent-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/goldpie-tent-1536x1025.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Goldpie proprietor Scott Hataye’s day job is as a “budtender” at 7 Stars. (Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\n\n\n\u003cp>When Rotten City closed last June, he took it as a sign that maybe it was time for him to launch his own pizza business. There’s a bit of Rotten City Pizza in the bones of Hataye’s pies, mostly in terms of the dough, which he says is \u003cem>very \u003c/em>similar to Rotten City’s, made with a blend of Central Milling 00 flour and bread flour and cold-fermented for up to 72 hours. The biggest difference, Hataye says, is that he makes a denser, richer red sauce, by cooking down Bianco DiNapoli brand crushed tomatoes (Rotten City was a \u003ca href=\"https://eastbayexpress.com/rotten-city-pizzas-bicoastal-tendencies-1/\">raw sauce\u003c/a> pizzeria). And because he bakes the pizzas in portable Gozney mini pizza ovens, which get as hot as 1,000 degrees, they’re smaller and less floppy than your classic foldable New York pizza. They’re about 12 to 13 inches in diameter, the perfect size for one hungry pizza eater (or two slightly daintier ones). \u003c/p>\n\n\n\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The finished product is a stylistic hybrid, Hataye says — sort of a cross between Neapolitan, New York, New Haven and Chicago-style tavern pizzas. \u003c/p>\n\n\n\n\u003cp>The important thing is that Goldpie’s pizza is legitimately tasty. The top of each pie is slicked with oil, and the crust is quite thin and crunchy-bottomed, with dark blistered spots verging on burnt toward the edges — in a really delicious way, if you’re a fan of that charred flavor, as I am. \u003c/p>\n\n\n\n\u003cfigure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/goldpie-heaven.jpg\" alt=\"A whole pepperoni pizza inside a foil-lined cardboard pizza box.\" class=\"wp-image-13990183\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/goldpie-heaven.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/goldpie-heaven-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/goldpie-heaven-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/goldpie-heaven-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">The “Heaven on Earth” features pesto, cupping pepperoni, hot honey and crsipy fried garlic. (Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\n\n\n\u003cp>I loved the “Heaven on Earth,” with its salty-sweet palette of pepperoni, pesto, hot honey and fried garlic. The sausage pie, meanwhile, was a more straightforward East Coast–style pizza — an ideal union of oozy cheese, zesty tomato sauce and a flavorful, crispy-chewy crust.\u003c/p>\n\n\n\n\u003cp>Other top sellers include the classic pepperoni and the “Brooklyn” (garlic, olive oil, whipped ricotta), which is Hataye’s take on a New York–style white pie. \u003ca href=\"https://www.7starshhc.com/blog/goldpie-pizza\">Whichever pizza you order\u003c/a>, make sure to ask for a little tub of the housemade candied jalapeños — a truly excellent pizza condiment.\u003c/p>\n\n\n\n\u003cp>Hataye says a few customers have asked whether he ever infuses marijuana into his food (he doesn’t), but in general, he doesn’t have any intention of veering toward gimmicky “pothead pizza.” \u003c/p>\n\n\n\n\u003cp>“I think they’re pretty satisfied with the pizzas as they are,” he says.\u003c/p>\n\n\n\n\u003cfigure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/goldpie-table.jpg\" alt=\"A painting of a cartoon horse and dog propped up on an outdoor table.\" class=\"wp-image-13990184\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/goldpie-table.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/goldpie-table-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/goldpie-table-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/goldpie-table-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">There’s a table set up next to the Goldpie tent where pizza eaters can “dine in” if they like. (Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\n\n\n\u003cp>In the end, the best part of the experience is the fact that Hataye and Mike Bennally (a former Rotten City general manager who helps out on pop-up days) make every pizza to order right in front of you, tossing and stretching the dough, and then lovingly tending to each pie the entire time it’s in the oven. \u003c/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n\u003cp>That level of personal care has started to pay off. Slowly but surely, a nice little community has formed around Goldpie, as more and more customers who aren’t even affiliated with the dispensary now go out of their way to visit the pop-up. Some wind up staying to eat at the table that Hataye has set up outside, watching one of the \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/DX5wmSOhE8r/\">’80s and ’90s cult classic movies\u003c/a> they have playing at all times.\u003c/p>\n\n\n\n\u003cp>Eventually, Hataye says he would love to turn that community into a full-blown restaurant, though for now he’s mostly focused on just getting the word out about the pop-up. But he and Bennally have already talked about the prospect of opening a brick-and-mortar pizzeria of their own — maybe in Pinole — some time in the next year.\u003c/p>\n\n\n\n\u003cp>“I would love to be able to do that,” he says.\u003c/p>\n\n\n\n\u003chr class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity\">\n\n\n\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/goldpieig/\">\u003cem>Goldpie\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem> pops up outside 7 Stars Holistic Healing Center, at 3219 Pierce St. in Richmond (across the street from the 99 Ranch Market plaza) on Sundays and Mondays, 11:30 a.m.–7:30 p.m. They currently sell \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"https://www.7starshhc.com/blog/goldpie-pizza\">\u003cem>whole pizzas only\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem>, for $15–$20 a pie. Customers can call or text 510-529-5007 if they want to place their orders ahead of time.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\n\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"slug": "junes-pizza-west-oakland-late-night-margherita-pepperoni-slices",
"title": "June’s Pizza Is Oakland’s Favorite Late-Night Slice Shop",
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"headTitle": "June’s Pizza Is Oakland’s Favorite Late-Night Slice Shop | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13989677\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13989677\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/junes2.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration: Two men devouring pizza. There's a pile of basil leaves on the pan.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/junes2.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/junes2-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/junes2-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/junes2-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/junes2-600x600.jpg 600w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">June’s Pizza sells margherita slices — and sometimes pepperoni slices — from 9 p.m. to midnight, or until it sells out. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/the-midnight-diners\">\u003ci>The Midnight Diners\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is a regular collaboration between KQED food editor Luke Tsai and graphic novelist \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thiendog/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Thien Pham\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. Follow them each week as they explore the hot pot restaurants, taco carts and 24-hour casino buffets that make up the Bay Area’s after-hours dining scene. \u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When we pull up to the unmarked \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/west-oakland\">West Oakland\u003c/a> warehouse at a little past 9 o’clock on a recent Friday night, there’s already a long line out the door. It’s a big, semi-industrial building — all exposed pipes and corrugated metal. The only signage to indicate that this is a place of business is an old, spray-painted wood board propped up on the ground: “June’s Pizza,” it reads.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>June’s has emerged, somewhat unexpectedly, as one of the most celebrated pizza restaurants in the Bay Area on the back of its wood-fired, decadently cheese-strewn margherita pies. The pizzeria got plenty of acclaim during its renegade, early-COVID-era days as an unpermitted (and eventually \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/restaurants/article/Oakland-s-pandemic-pizza-sensation-June-s-has-16513631.php\">shut down\u003c/a>) shipping container pop-up. Last year, after its brick-and-mortar opened on Mandela Parkway, \u003ci>Esquire \u003c/i>even named it one of the \u003ca href=\"https://www.esquire.com/food-drink/restaurants/a69501755/best-new-restaurants-america-2025/\">best new restaurants\u003c/a> in the entire country.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the reason we decided to make this pilgrimage now is because we heard — also somewhat unexpectedly — that the place has become one of the East Bay’s most popular late-night restaurants. Unexpected in the sense that June’s really only sells one thing between the hours of 9 p.m. and midnight: margherita pizza by the slice. That’s it. Nothing else.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Would that be enough to hold our wandering eyes? We had been a bit skeptical. But by the time we finish our meal, we’re hard-pressed to think of anything \u003ci>more \u003c/i>perfect to eat at the end of a long night.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>June’s has become something of a destination restaurant for out-of-town visitors. But during its late-night hours, the place feels more like a locals’ hangout. Maybe a DJ is spinning records, or maybe the restaurant’s hosting a \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/DL6tw4mOljf/\">listening party for a new rap album\u003c/a>. But the overall vibe is akin to a big, convivial house party hosted in someone’s high-ceilinged living room. On the night of our visit, the crowd feels quintessentially Oakland — racially diverse, skewing toward twenty- and thirtysomething artistic types. At the table next to ours, a group of chic Asian Americans in designer eyeglasses chatters happily over their marg slices and a bottle of red wine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13989679\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13989679\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/junes.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration: the exterior of a warehouse-like restaurant, where several customers wait in line. On the ground, a handwritten sign reads, "June's Pizza."\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/junes.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/junes-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/junes-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/junes-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/junes-600x600.jpg 600w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The buzzy West Oakland restaurant is located in an unmarked warehouse on a semi-industrial stretch of Mandela Parkway. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>June’s is proof that giving the customer \u003ci>fewer \u003c/i>choices is sometimes the smartest move. Even during non-late-night hours, the restaurant only ever sells three types of pizza: margherita, pepperoni and a limited quantity of whatever seasonal special they’ve come up with that week (say, fingerling potatoes, green garlic and ham). There are no salads, no cute little appetizers, no bread sticks, no desserts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And after 9 p.m., when June’s starts serving slices, the menu winnows down even further. Most nights, they only offer the margherita, which could scarcely be simpler — just cheese and tomato sauce with a stack of super-fresh basil leaves on the side, so you can top each slice as you please. The kitchen’s signature move is sprinkling the bejesus out of every pizza with a flurry of grated parmesan, covering the whole surface with a feathery umami dust.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The first bite is blistering hot, super crispy at the thin tip, and soft and melty on top. We love the interplay between the bright red sauce, salty cheese and well-blistered crust. The dough has just a hint of sourdough tang, and it puffs up and gets chewier and more flavorful as we get closer to the crust, offering different textures from bite to bite.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13988856,arts_13959808,arts_13987415']\u003c/span>\u003c/span>We fold our slices in half, New York–style, and dip the crusts in the restaurant’s housemade sauces — an earthy roasted garlic number and a tangy, “limited edition” wakame Caesar dressing that has a strong anchovy umami punch. (That one is so good, I bring the leftovers home to make a helluva delicious salad the next day.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One slice in, we understand perfectly now why June’s doesn’t offer a bunch of different pizzas, because this is a taste that we would never get tired of — one we could come back to week after week.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tonight is our lucky night, though, because the restaurant is also selling pepperoni slices, which aren’t always available. These have an entirely different vibe, despite being built on the same base as the margherita — the pizza is much richer and more intensely flavored, and has a surprisingly spicy kick from the small, dense rounds of pepperoni.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ultimately, the success of June’s is a testament to the power of doing one thing really, really well. The lack of bells and whistles also helps keep the after-hours menu relatively affordable. Slices are $5 ($6 for pepperoni), and they’re big. Most diners won’t wind up eating more than two or three in one sitting.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The only danger? Not long after we arrive, we overhear the chef telling a customer that they only have three balls of raw dough left. By a little after 10 o’clock, there are maybe three pizzas’ worth of slices left, and it seems quite likely that they’re going to sell out before the hour is out. So as we head out into the night, we make plans to come back soon for another late-night pizza session — but maybe not \u003ci>too \u003c/i>late, to be safe.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/junes_pizza/\">June’s Pizza\u003c/a> is open 4 p.m.–midnight daily at 2408 Mandela Pkwy. in Oakland. The restaurant serves slices only starting at 9 p.m. \u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13989677\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13989677\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/junes2.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration: Two men devouring pizza. There's a pile of basil leaves on the pan.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/junes2.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/junes2-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/junes2-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/junes2-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/junes2-600x600.jpg 600w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">June’s Pizza sells margherita slices — and sometimes pepperoni slices — from 9 p.m. to midnight, or until it sells out. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/the-midnight-diners\">\u003ci>The Midnight Diners\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is a regular collaboration between KQED food editor Luke Tsai and graphic novelist \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thiendog/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Thien Pham\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. Follow them each week as they explore the hot pot restaurants, taco carts and 24-hour casino buffets that make up the Bay Area’s after-hours dining scene. \u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When we pull up to the unmarked \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/west-oakland\">West Oakland\u003c/a> warehouse at a little past 9 o’clock on a recent Friday night, there’s already a long line out the door. It’s a big, semi-industrial building — all exposed pipes and corrugated metal. The only signage to indicate that this is a place of business is an old, spray-painted wood board propped up on the ground: “June’s Pizza,” it reads.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>June’s has emerged, somewhat unexpectedly, as one of the most celebrated pizza restaurants in the Bay Area on the back of its wood-fired, decadently cheese-strewn margherita pies. The pizzeria got plenty of acclaim during its renegade, early-COVID-era days as an unpermitted (and eventually \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/restaurants/article/Oakland-s-pandemic-pizza-sensation-June-s-has-16513631.php\">shut down\u003c/a>) shipping container pop-up. Last year, after its brick-and-mortar opened on Mandela Parkway, \u003ci>Esquire \u003c/i>even named it one of the \u003ca href=\"https://www.esquire.com/food-drink/restaurants/a69501755/best-new-restaurants-america-2025/\">best new restaurants\u003c/a> in the entire country.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the reason we decided to make this pilgrimage now is because we heard — also somewhat unexpectedly — that the place has become one of the East Bay’s most popular late-night restaurants. Unexpected in the sense that June’s really only sells one thing between the hours of 9 p.m. and midnight: margherita pizza by the slice. That’s it. Nothing else.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Would that be enough to hold our wandering eyes? We had been a bit skeptical. But by the time we finish our meal, we’re hard-pressed to think of anything \u003ci>more \u003c/i>perfect to eat at the end of a long night.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>June’s has become something of a destination restaurant for out-of-town visitors. But during its late-night hours, the place feels more like a locals’ hangout. Maybe a DJ is spinning records, or maybe the restaurant’s hosting a \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/DL6tw4mOljf/\">listening party for a new rap album\u003c/a>. But the overall vibe is akin to a big, convivial house party hosted in someone’s high-ceilinged living room. On the night of our visit, the crowd feels quintessentially Oakland — racially diverse, skewing toward twenty- and thirtysomething artistic types. At the table next to ours, a group of chic Asian Americans in designer eyeglasses chatters happily over their marg slices and a bottle of red wine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13989679\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13989679\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/junes.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration: the exterior of a warehouse-like restaurant, where several customers wait in line. On the ground, a handwritten sign reads, "June's Pizza."\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/junes.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/junes-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/junes-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/junes-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/junes-600x600.jpg 600w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The buzzy West Oakland restaurant is located in an unmarked warehouse on a semi-industrial stretch of Mandela Parkway. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>June’s is proof that giving the customer \u003ci>fewer \u003c/i>choices is sometimes the smartest move. Even during non-late-night hours, the restaurant only ever sells three types of pizza: margherita, pepperoni and a limited quantity of whatever seasonal special they’ve come up with that week (say, fingerling potatoes, green garlic and ham). There are no salads, no cute little appetizers, no bread sticks, no desserts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And after 9 p.m., when June’s starts serving slices, the menu winnows down even further. Most nights, they only offer the margherita, which could scarcely be simpler — just cheese and tomato sauce with a stack of super-fresh basil leaves on the side, so you can top each slice as you please. The kitchen’s signature move is sprinkling the bejesus out of every pizza with a flurry of grated parmesan, covering the whole surface with a feathery umami dust.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The first bite is blistering hot, super crispy at the thin tip, and soft and melty on top. We love the interplay between the bright red sauce, salty cheese and well-blistered crust. The dough has just a hint of sourdough tang, and it puffs up and gets chewier and more flavorful as we get closer to the crust, offering different textures from bite to bite.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/span>We fold our slices in half, New York–style, and dip the crusts in the restaurant’s housemade sauces — an earthy roasted garlic number and a tangy, “limited edition” wakame Caesar dressing that has a strong anchovy umami punch. (That one is so good, I bring the leftovers home to make a helluva delicious salad the next day.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One slice in, we understand perfectly now why June’s doesn’t offer a bunch of different pizzas, because this is a taste that we would never get tired of — one we could come back to week after week.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tonight is our lucky night, though, because the restaurant is also selling pepperoni slices, which aren’t always available. These have an entirely different vibe, despite being built on the same base as the margherita — the pizza is much richer and more intensely flavored, and has a surprisingly spicy kick from the small, dense rounds of pepperoni.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ultimately, the success of June’s is a testament to the power of doing one thing really, really well. The lack of bells and whistles also helps keep the after-hours menu relatively affordable. Slices are $5 ($6 for pepperoni), and they’re big. Most diners won’t wind up eating more than two or three in one sitting.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The only danger? Not long after we arrive, we overhear the chef telling a customer that they only have three balls of raw dough left. By a little after 10 o’clock, there are maybe three pizzas’ worth of slices left, and it seems quite likely that they’re going to sell out before the hour is out. So as we head out into the night, we make plans to come back soon for another late-night pizza session — but maybe not \u003ci>too \u003c/i>late, to be safe.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/junes_pizza/\">June’s Pizza\u003c/a> is open 4 p.m.–midnight daily at 2408 Mandela Pkwy. in Oakland. The restaurant serves slices only starting at 9 p.m. \u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"slug": "golden-boy-pizza-north-beach-sf-late-night",
"title": "Golden Boy Pizza Is Where You Want To End Your Night",
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"headTitle": "Golden Boy Pizza Is Where You Want To End Your Night | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13959812\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13959812\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/Goldenboy.jpg\" alt=\"Two men devour a pizza straight out of the box while standing in a crowd of other customers.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/Goldenboy.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/Goldenboy-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/Goldenboy-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/Goldenboy-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/Goldenboy-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/Goldenboy-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Eating a Golden Boy slice while standing on the sidewalk late at night is an indelible San Francisco experience. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/the-midnight-diners\">\u003ci>The Midnight Diners\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is a regular collaboration between KQED food editor Luke Tsai and graphic novelist \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thiendog/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Thien Pham\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. Follow them each week as they explore the hot pot restaurants, taco carts and 24-hour casino buffets that make up the Bay Area’s after-hours dining scene.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you’re a lifelong San Franciscan, chances are you’ve grabbed a slice at \u003ca href=\"https://goldenboypizza.com/\">Golden Boy Pizza\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Or to be more specific: If your misspent youth involved hanging around the vicinity of North Beach late at night, you’ve probably burned the roof of your mouth scarfing down a Golden Boy clam-and-garlic slice while standing on the sidewalk well past midnight.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ever since Golden Boy’s original Green Street location opened in 1978, the pizzeria has been an indelible fixture of San Francisco’s late-night scene. Pre-pandemic, and for the bulk of its 40-plus-year heyday as an after-hours hangout, Golden Boy was open past 2 a.m. on the weekend, making it the ideal place to hit up after a punk show or a reckless night of bar-hopping. Back then, the restaurant itself doubled as a neighborhood dive bar of sorts, with pizza eaters squeezing shoulder-to-shoulder at the counter to enjoy pitchers of cold Stella and a thrash metal–heavy playlist with their meal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Times change, of course. These days, Golden Boy is strictly takeout only. It now closes at 9 p.m. on weekdays, and 11 p.m. on weekends. But even in its streamlined form, the restaurant remains one of the best spots in the city to grab a bite late at night. At a little before 10 o’clock on a recent Friday night, you could still spot the pizzeria’s iconic neon sign (an enormous hand, lit up in red and green, its index finger pointing the way) from several blocks away. The line outside seemed as long as it had ever been, maybe nine or 10 customers deep — an ethnically diverse crowd, mostly in their 20s or 30s. Because there isn’t any dine-in option, some took off in their cars as they’d gotten their pizzas. A few took their slices into the cocktail bar next door; a few more, like us, found a spot on the sidewalk where they could lean against a wall and eat their pizza standing up, like a proper street food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13959811\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13959811\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/Goldenboy2.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration: A line of customers waiting outside of Golden Boy Pizza.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/Goldenboy2.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/Goldenboy2-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/Goldenboy2-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/Goldenboy2-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/Goldenboy2-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/Goldenboy2-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Even though it’s no longer open past 2 a.m. on the weekend, Golden Boy Pizza remains a popular late-night destination in North Beach. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>What I love about Golden Boy is its commitment to selling just pizza, nothing else — no perfunctory salad or chicken wings. (If you want a balanced, multicourse meal, there are plenty of other places in North Beach that’ll do the job.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The pizza, meanwhile, is uniquely and idiosyncratically Bay Area. A Golden Boy pie’s thick crust and rectangular shape predate the region’s recent wave of trendy, right-angled Detroit-style pizzas by about 40 years — though no one would confuse the two styles. According to its official backstory, a Golden Boy “San Francilian” pie is basically “\u003ca href=\"https://www.goldenboypizza.com/sanfrancisco.php\">focaccia with pizza topping\u003c/a>.” That description might lead you to imagine a pizza with a spongy or bready texture, but the most remarkable thing about a Golden Boy slice is how light and airy it is once you’ve bitten into its golden-brown, impeccably crunchy bottom. Though I’ve never tested the theory, I \u003ci>feel\u003c/i> like I could eat 100 slices without feeling uncomfortably full.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13958926,arts_13958466,arts_13954597']\u003c/span>\u003c/span>It’s a tempting prospect, too, because the pizza’s components are so well-balanced and delicious — the juicy, thick red sauce (hands-down one of the best in the Bay); the generous amount of stretchy cheese; the charred, squared-off edges on each coveted corner slice. The toppings list is short and sweet, not veering far beyond pepperoni, sausage and a few simple vegetables. The clam-and-garlic pie is the cult favorite of the bunch, topped with chewy baby clams, enough garlic to bowl you over and linger on your breath, and a flurry of chopped parsley to act as a fresh counterpoint. How good is it? If we were sculpting a Mount Rushmore of Bay Area pizzas, it would easily snag one of the four spots.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Golden Boy also does a more standard combination pizza, as well as a tasty vegetarian pie that subs in pesto for the red sauce. During our recent visit, however, we found ourselves gravitating toward the simplest pizzas — the plain cheese slice and the classic, no-frills pepperoni. Without any fussy toppings to distract, we marinated in that perfect union of cheese, sauce and ethereal crust.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I don’t know if this is the best slice in San Francisco, but it sure \u003ci>felt\u003c/i> like it was. Standing there hunched over outside in the lamplight, balancing the pizza box in one hand and a can of soda in the other while we ate. Cars whizzed past. A saxophone guy on the opposite street corner was playing something plaintive and jazzy. In that moment, it was hard to imagine anything better.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://goldenboypizza.com/\">\u003ci>Golden Boy Pizza’s\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> original North Beach location is open Sunday through Thursday 11:30 a.m.–9 p.m. and Friday to Saturday 11:30 a.m.–11 p.m. at 542 Green St. in San Francisco. There’s also a San Mateo location and a forthcoming location at 1447 Taraval St., in the Parkside neighborhood of SF.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "The legendary North Beach pizzeria is still drawing long lines and serving delicious, square late-night slices. ",
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"title": "Golden Boy Pizza Is a Late-Night Classic in San Francisco | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13959812\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13959812\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/Goldenboy.jpg\" alt=\"Two men devour a pizza straight out of the box while standing in a crowd of other customers.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/Goldenboy.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/Goldenboy-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/Goldenboy-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/Goldenboy-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/Goldenboy-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/Goldenboy-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Eating a Golden Boy slice while standing on the sidewalk late at night is an indelible San Francisco experience. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/the-midnight-diners\">\u003ci>The Midnight Diners\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is a regular collaboration between KQED food editor Luke Tsai and graphic novelist \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thiendog/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Thien Pham\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. Follow them each week as they explore the hot pot restaurants, taco carts and 24-hour casino buffets that make up the Bay Area’s after-hours dining scene.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you’re a lifelong San Franciscan, chances are you’ve grabbed a slice at \u003ca href=\"https://goldenboypizza.com/\">Golden Boy Pizza\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Or to be more specific: If your misspent youth involved hanging around the vicinity of North Beach late at night, you’ve probably burned the roof of your mouth scarfing down a Golden Boy clam-and-garlic slice while standing on the sidewalk well past midnight.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ever since Golden Boy’s original Green Street location opened in 1978, the pizzeria has been an indelible fixture of San Francisco’s late-night scene. Pre-pandemic, and for the bulk of its 40-plus-year heyday as an after-hours hangout, Golden Boy was open past 2 a.m. on the weekend, making it the ideal place to hit up after a punk show or a reckless night of bar-hopping. Back then, the restaurant itself doubled as a neighborhood dive bar of sorts, with pizza eaters squeezing shoulder-to-shoulder at the counter to enjoy pitchers of cold Stella and a thrash metal–heavy playlist with their meal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Times change, of course. These days, Golden Boy is strictly takeout only. It now closes at 9 p.m. on weekdays, and 11 p.m. on weekends. But even in its streamlined form, the restaurant remains one of the best spots in the city to grab a bite late at night. At a little before 10 o’clock on a recent Friday night, you could still spot the pizzeria’s iconic neon sign (an enormous hand, lit up in red and green, its index finger pointing the way) from several blocks away. The line outside seemed as long as it had ever been, maybe nine or 10 customers deep — an ethnically diverse crowd, mostly in their 20s or 30s. Because there isn’t any dine-in option, some took off in their cars as they’d gotten their pizzas. A few took their slices into the cocktail bar next door; a few more, like us, found a spot on the sidewalk where they could lean against a wall and eat their pizza standing up, like a proper street food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13959811\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13959811\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/Goldenboy2.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration: A line of customers waiting outside of Golden Boy Pizza.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/Goldenboy2.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/Goldenboy2-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/Goldenboy2-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/Goldenboy2-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/Goldenboy2-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/Goldenboy2-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Even though it’s no longer open past 2 a.m. on the weekend, Golden Boy Pizza remains a popular late-night destination in North Beach. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>What I love about Golden Boy is its commitment to selling just pizza, nothing else — no perfunctory salad or chicken wings. (If you want a balanced, multicourse meal, there are plenty of other places in North Beach that’ll do the job.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The pizza, meanwhile, is uniquely and idiosyncratically Bay Area. A Golden Boy pie’s thick crust and rectangular shape predate the region’s recent wave of trendy, right-angled Detroit-style pizzas by about 40 years — though no one would confuse the two styles. According to its official backstory, a Golden Boy “San Francilian” pie is basically “\u003ca href=\"https://www.goldenboypizza.com/sanfrancisco.php\">focaccia with pizza topping\u003c/a>.” That description might lead you to imagine a pizza with a spongy or bready texture, but the most remarkable thing about a Golden Boy slice is how light and airy it is once you’ve bitten into its golden-brown, impeccably crunchy bottom. Though I’ve never tested the theory, I \u003ci>feel\u003c/i> like I could eat 100 slices without feeling uncomfortably full.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/span>It’s a tempting prospect, too, because the pizza’s components are so well-balanced and delicious — the juicy, thick red sauce (hands-down one of the best in the Bay); the generous amount of stretchy cheese; the charred, squared-off edges on each coveted corner slice. The toppings list is short and sweet, not veering far beyond pepperoni, sausage and a few simple vegetables. The clam-and-garlic pie is the cult favorite of the bunch, topped with chewy baby clams, enough garlic to bowl you over and linger on your breath, and a flurry of chopped parsley to act as a fresh counterpoint. How good is it? If we were sculpting a Mount Rushmore of Bay Area pizzas, it would easily snag one of the four spots.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Golden Boy also does a more standard combination pizza, as well as a tasty vegetarian pie that subs in pesto for the red sauce. During our recent visit, however, we found ourselves gravitating toward the simplest pizzas — the plain cheese slice and the classic, no-frills pepperoni. Without any fussy toppings to distract, we marinated in that perfect union of cheese, sauce and ethereal crust.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I don’t know if this is the best slice in San Francisco, but it sure \u003ci>felt\u003c/i> like it was. Standing there hunched over outside in the lamplight, balancing the pizza box in one hand and a can of soda in the other while we ate. Cars whizzed past. A saxophone guy on the opposite street corner was playing something plaintive and jazzy. In that moment, it was hard to imagine anything better.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://goldenboypizza.com/\">\u003ci>Golden Boy Pizza’s\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> original North Beach location is open Sunday through Thursday 11:30 a.m.–9 p.m. and Friday to Saturday 11:30 a.m.–11 p.m. at 542 Green St. in San Francisco. There’s also a San Mateo location and a forthcoming location at 1447 Taraval St., in the Parkside neighborhood of SF.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"slug": "the-laundromat-pizza-outer-richmond-musicians-bands-staff",
"title": "Your Favorite Local Band Member Is Serving You Pizza in the Outer Richmond",
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"content": "\u003cp>On Wednesday evenings, Alex Wolfert feels like he’s on stage — even if none of his three bands is performing that night.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That’s because Wolfert, 24, works Wednesdays at \u003ca href=\"https://www.thelaundromatsf.com/\">The Laundromat\u003c/a> — a bagels-in-the-morning, pizzas-and-wine-in-the-evening spot in San Francisco’s Outer Richmond that doubles as a micro-community of the city’s indie musicians. Hours pass to the hum of vinyl LPs from its sizable collection; dough and industry advice are thrown and caught; band tees are complimented. Co-workers’ demos are played on shared rides home, and employees cover shifts when others play shows or go on tour.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But mainly, The Laundromat’s supportive, tight-knit staff show that the artist’s tradition of working behind a counter on the nights not spent on stage is alive and well in an increasingly unaffordable, tech-centered city.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13959564\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13959564\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/240605-TheLaundromatRestaurant-75-BL_qut.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/240605-TheLaundromatRestaurant-75-BL_qut.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/240605-TheLaundromatRestaurant-75-BL_qut-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/240605-TheLaundromatRestaurant-75-BL_qut-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/240605-TheLaundromatRestaurant-75-BL_qut-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/240605-TheLaundromatRestaurant-75-BL_qut-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/240605-TheLaundromatRestaurant-75-BL_qut-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Alex Wolfert serves orders at The Laundromat, where he works alongside other musicians from San Francisco bands. Wolfert plays in Uncle Chris, Double Helix Peace Treaty and Starfish Prime. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>On a typical shift, Wolfert, with his easy smile, might step outside to wipe down a table, passing the hour-long line and white horizon of Ocean Beach. His thoughts will race: He needs to text Joey he can record this week; Korey wants to rehearse next week; that one party needs water; two tables need to be set. Then he’ll grab a mushroom combo, balancing dipping dishes of honey and ranch between his fingers, and slide them all onto a crowded table.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As the phone rings, he’ll notice the Groove Armada record is on the penultimate track of Side B.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“One! More! Song!” he chirps in these moments over the beat to co-workers, Max Edelman, 29 (drummer for alt-rock band \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/sourwidows\">Sour Widows\u003c/a> and black metal band \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/rokeblackmetal/\">Roke\u003c/a>), and Eva Treadway, 29 (guitarist in the ’60s-style pop band \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/theshesmusic/\">The She’s\u003c/a> and the noisy ’90s-style rock group \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/world_smasher/\">World Smasher\u003c/a>). Edelman might be pouring a skin-contact orange wine into one patron’s glass while Treadway — wearing a baseball cap with the word “Laundromat” in a squiggly font, designed by \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/secret.cobra.information/\">Trey Flanigan\u003c/a> of local band \u003ca href=\"https://pardoner.bandcamp.com/\">Pardoner\u003c/a> — pours a chilled red into another. A sausage pie’s ready for delivery. The phone’s ringing again.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13959565\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13959565\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/240605-TheLaundromatRestaurant-76-BL_qut.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/240605-TheLaundromatRestaurant-76-BL_qut.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/240605-TheLaundromatRestaurant-76-BL_qut-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/240605-TheLaundromatRestaurant-76-BL_qut-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/240605-TheLaundromatRestaurant-76-BL_qut-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/240605-TheLaundromatRestaurant-76-BL_qut-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/240605-TheLaundromatRestaurant-76-BL_qut-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Eva Treadway and Max Edelman work behind the bar at The Laundromat. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Busy nights like these are exhilarating to Wolfert. It’s like when his fingers are on the bass strings at Kilowatt or the Knockout. He plays with the jazz-inspired indie-pop group \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/11985883/uncle-chris-dove-on-the-ocean\">Uncle Chris,\u003c/a> the rock-driven songwriting-forward alt-pop of \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/starfishprime999/\">Starfish Prime\u003c/a> and the gritty, edgy sounds of \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/doublehelix.peacetreaty/\">Double Helix Peace Treaty\u003c/a>. Working at The Laundromat can be like the climax of a song, he says. The crowd is rapt. The band’s locked in. The sound engineer is waving a symbol he can half see. His friends are in the front row making heart hands.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There’s a beast flowing through the air at that moment, he says. At The Laundromat, it’s caught and upheld by his co-workers, who are also his friends and some of his favorite musicians, similarly running pizzas or laughing in passing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“There are parallels in service as in performance,” says Treadway just before their shift on a recent Wednesday. “We have our flow and we’re putting on a little bit of a show. Like, you’re providing this environment, you’re helping to curate it and you’re helping it to run, and you’re really fucking leaning on the people around you as your team.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Navigating this organized chaos comes naturally to people who’ve worked together in a collaborative way artistically, Treadway adds, “because so much of being in a band is compromise and truly working together and doing hard things together. I don’t know anyone that’s a working musician in San Francisco that’s not working really, really hard.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13959557\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13959557\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/240605-TheLaundromatRestaurant-59-BL_qut.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/240605-TheLaundromatRestaurant-59-BL_qut.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/240605-TheLaundromatRestaurant-59-BL_qut-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/240605-TheLaundromatRestaurant-59-BL_qut-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/240605-TheLaundromatRestaurant-59-BL_qut-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/240605-TheLaundromatRestaurant-59-BL_qut-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/240605-TheLaundromatRestaurant-59-BL_qut-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Eva Treadway poses for a portrait at The Laundromat. Treadway plays in The She’s and World Smasher. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Musicians have worked service jobs since the beginning of undercompensated music and undercompensated labor. But the marriage’s harmony largely depends on institutional support – especially in San Francisco, where rents are always going up, prices are high and \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfgate.com/local/article/under-100k-low-income-san-francisco-18168899.php\">anyone making less than $100,000 a year is considered low-income\u003c/a>. The Tenderloin rehearsal space shared by two of Wolfert’s bands, a tight room split between five bands total, costs $800 a month. He lives with four roommates, one of whom is a bandmate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When asked how to best support San Francisco’s musicians, Treadway says to tip well and pay in cash. Break out of the “transaction” mindset. Sometimes people forget their waiter is “a cool person who’s working really hard, who has their own interests, who maybe has their own band,” they add.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Supporting your local restaurant is supporting your local musicians,” says Treadway. “Never forget it.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13959555\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13959555\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/240605-TheLaundromatRestaurant-03-BL_qut.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/240605-TheLaundromatRestaurant-03-BL_qut.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/240605-TheLaundromatRestaurant-03-BL_qut-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/240605-TheLaundromatRestaurant-03-BL_qut-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/240605-TheLaundromatRestaurant-03-BL_qut-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/240605-TheLaundromatRestaurant-03-BL_qut-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/240605-TheLaundromatRestaurant-03-BL_qut-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Max Edelman poses for a portrait at The Laundromat. Edelman plays in the bands Sour Widows and Roke. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The city’s music scene is a fragile ecosystem, one supported through ticket and merch sales and prenegotiated percentages of the bar. And it’s supported most directly by the musicians themselves, waiting tables and humming a song idea as they grab Table Three’s vegan cheese.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Local music survives, says Wolfert, because of places like The Laundromat, and because people in the scene help each other out. Musicians hook other musicians up with places to practice or record; they ask local acts to open when they headline; they let them know when their neighborhood pizza place is hiring.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13959563\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13959563\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/240605-TheLaundromatRestaurant-72-BL_qut.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/240605-TheLaundromatRestaurant-72-BL_qut.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/240605-TheLaundromatRestaurant-72-BL_qut-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/240605-TheLaundromatRestaurant-72-BL_qut-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/240605-TheLaundromatRestaurant-72-BL_qut-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/240605-TheLaundromatRestaurant-72-BL_qut-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/240605-TheLaundromatRestaurant-72-BL_qut-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Alex Wolfert talks with a co-worker at The Laundromat. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“As a musician, I feel like you’re working so many different jobs all at once,” says Edelman. “And then you work your job. And you’re not being paid, usually, for the music aspect.” Edelman, who’s tended bar at The Laundromat for more than a year, learned about the job from an Instagram post by Treadway, right after the two returned to San Francisco from playing South by Southwest.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Treadway calls The Laundromat “a project”; Edelman opts for a musician-artist space as well as a culinary spot. Wolfert jokes that people say from the outside, it looks like “a little cult.” (The Laundromat’s musician staff also includes Keith Frerichs of \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/theumbrellassf/\">The Umbrellas\u003c/a>, who is absent on this particular day to prepare for a North American tour.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When Wolfert worked at a prior pizza place, he says he felt validated as a musician. But there’s validation, and then there’s encouragement from managers and owners. Here, your co-workers and bosses will proactively sit down around a calendar of your upcoming tour dates. They’ll work together to cover shifts; they’ll make it happen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13959559\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13959559\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/240605-TheLaundromatRestaurant-65-BL_qut.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/240605-TheLaundromatRestaurant-65-BL_qut.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/240605-TheLaundromatRestaurant-65-BL_qut-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/240605-TheLaundromatRestaurant-65-BL_qut-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/240605-TheLaundromatRestaurant-65-BL_qut-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/240605-TheLaundromatRestaurant-65-BL_qut-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/240605-TheLaundromatRestaurant-65-BL_qut-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bumper stickers by Christopher DeLoach (@thatscoolthankyou on Instagram) hang at the entrance to The Laundromat. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Laundromat co-owners Kevin Rodgers and Jenna O’Connell don’t play music themselves, but both have histories of working with musicians in the service industry. The Laundromat, Rodgers says, is the most musician-concentrated workplace in his career. With so many band members and music lovers on staff, Rodgers says, they all just get it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Feeling like you’re in a place where your actual artistic endeavors are supported, that feels really important to me as someone who has played music my whole life,” says Treadway. “What makes people whole is being able to participate in their artistic endeavors.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ever since Treadway started in San Francisco’s music scene, people have said that the scene is dying. That everyone’s moving to L.A. They don’t think that’s true.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“There’s always going to be music in San Francisco,” Treadway says. “It’s in the DNA of the city, and has been since before any of us even were considered to exist.”\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/theumbrellassf/\">The Umbrellas\u003c/a> are currently touring North America, and play \u003ca href=\"https://dice.fm/event/wkpon-the-umbrellas-pocket-full-of-crumbs-and-latitude-29th-jun-kilowatt-san-francisco-tickets?\">Saturday, June 29, at Kilowatt in San Francisco\u003c/a>. \u003ca href=\"https://www.sourwidows.com/\">Sour Widows\u003c/a> begins a U.S. tour this month, and plays \u003ca href=\"https://theindependentsf.com/event/13375114/sour-widows/\">Saturday, July 13, at the Independent\u003c/a> in San Francisco. \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/doublehelix.peacetreaty/\">Double Helix Peace Treaty\u003c/a> plays \u003ca href=\"https://www.4-star-movies.com/calendar-of-events/credit-electric-w-dutch-interior-amp-double-helix-peace-treaty-doors-700-pm-music-730-pm\">Wednesday, August 14, at the 4 Star Theater\u003c/a> in San Francisco.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>On Wednesday evenings, Alex Wolfert feels like he’s on stage — even if none of his three bands is performing that night.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That’s because Wolfert, 24, works Wednesdays at \u003ca href=\"https://www.thelaundromatsf.com/\">The Laundromat\u003c/a> — a bagels-in-the-morning, pizzas-and-wine-in-the-evening spot in San Francisco’s Outer Richmond that doubles as a micro-community of the city’s indie musicians. Hours pass to the hum of vinyl LPs from its sizable collection; dough and industry advice are thrown and caught; band tees are complimented. Co-workers’ demos are played on shared rides home, and employees cover shifts when others play shows or go on tour.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But mainly, The Laundromat’s supportive, tight-knit staff show that the artist’s tradition of working behind a counter on the nights not spent on stage is alive and well in an increasingly unaffordable, tech-centered city.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13959564\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13959564\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/240605-TheLaundromatRestaurant-75-BL_qut.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/240605-TheLaundromatRestaurant-75-BL_qut.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/240605-TheLaundromatRestaurant-75-BL_qut-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/240605-TheLaundromatRestaurant-75-BL_qut-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/240605-TheLaundromatRestaurant-75-BL_qut-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/240605-TheLaundromatRestaurant-75-BL_qut-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/240605-TheLaundromatRestaurant-75-BL_qut-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Alex Wolfert serves orders at The Laundromat, where he works alongside other musicians from San Francisco bands. Wolfert plays in Uncle Chris, Double Helix Peace Treaty and Starfish Prime. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>On a typical shift, Wolfert, with his easy smile, might step outside to wipe down a table, passing the hour-long line and white horizon of Ocean Beach. His thoughts will race: He needs to text Joey he can record this week; Korey wants to rehearse next week; that one party needs water; two tables need to be set. Then he’ll grab a mushroom combo, balancing dipping dishes of honey and ranch between his fingers, and slide them all onto a crowded table.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As the phone rings, he’ll notice the Groove Armada record is on the penultimate track of Side B.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“One! More! Song!” he chirps in these moments over the beat to co-workers, Max Edelman, 29 (drummer for alt-rock band \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/sourwidows\">Sour Widows\u003c/a> and black metal band \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/rokeblackmetal/\">Roke\u003c/a>), and Eva Treadway, 29 (guitarist in the ’60s-style pop band \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/theshesmusic/\">The She’s\u003c/a> and the noisy ’90s-style rock group \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/world_smasher/\">World Smasher\u003c/a>). Edelman might be pouring a skin-contact orange wine into one patron’s glass while Treadway — wearing a baseball cap with the word “Laundromat” in a squiggly font, designed by \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/secret.cobra.information/\">Trey Flanigan\u003c/a> of local band \u003ca href=\"https://pardoner.bandcamp.com/\">Pardoner\u003c/a> — pours a chilled red into another. A sausage pie’s ready for delivery. The phone’s ringing again.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13959565\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13959565\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/240605-TheLaundromatRestaurant-76-BL_qut.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/240605-TheLaundromatRestaurant-76-BL_qut.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/240605-TheLaundromatRestaurant-76-BL_qut-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/240605-TheLaundromatRestaurant-76-BL_qut-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/240605-TheLaundromatRestaurant-76-BL_qut-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/240605-TheLaundromatRestaurant-76-BL_qut-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/240605-TheLaundromatRestaurant-76-BL_qut-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Eva Treadway and Max Edelman work behind the bar at The Laundromat. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Busy nights like these are exhilarating to Wolfert. It’s like when his fingers are on the bass strings at Kilowatt or the Knockout. He plays with the jazz-inspired indie-pop group \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/11985883/uncle-chris-dove-on-the-ocean\">Uncle Chris,\u003c/a> the rock-driven songwriting-forward alt-pop of \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/starfishprime999/\">Starfish Prime\u003c/a> and the gritty, edgy sounds of \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/doublehelix.peacetreaty/\">Double Helix Peace Treaty\u003c/a>. Working at The Laundromat can be like the climax of a song, he says. The crowd is rapt. The band’s locked in. The sound engineer is waving a symbol he can half see. His friends are in the front row making heart hands.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There’s a beast flowing through the air at that moment, he says. At The Laundromat, it’s caught and upheld by his co-workers, who are also his friends and some of his favorite musicians, similarly running pizzas or laughing in passing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“There are parallels in service as in performance,” says Treadway just before their shift on a recent Wednesday. “We have our flow and we’re putting on a little bit of a show. Like, you’re providing this environment, you’re helping to curate it and you’re helping it to run, and you’re really fucking leaning on the people around you as your team.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Navigating this organized chaos comes naturally to people who’ve worked together in a collaborative way artistically, Treadway adds, “because so much of being in a band is compromise and truly working together and doing hard things together. I don’t know anyone that’s a working musician in San Francisco that’s not working really, really hard.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13959557\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13959557\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/240605-TheLaundromatRestaurant-59-BL_qut.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/240605-TheLaundromatRestaurant-59-BL_qut.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/240605-TheLaundromatRestaurant-59-BL_qut-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/240605-TheLaundromatRestaurant-59-BL_qut-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/240605-TheLaundromatRestaurant-59-BL_qut-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/240605-TheLaundromatRestaurant-59-BL_qut-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/240605-TheLaundromatRestaurant-59-BL_qut-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Eva Treadway poses for a portrait at The Laundromat. Treadway plays in The She’s and World Smasher. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Musicians have worked service jobs since the beginning of undercompensated music and undercompensated labor. But the marriage’s harmony largely depends on institutional support – especially in San Francisco, where rents are always going up, prices are high and \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfgate.com/local/article/under-100k-low-income-san-francisco-18168899.php\">anyone making less than $100,000 a year is considered low-income\u003c/a>. The Tenderloin rehearsal space shared by two of Wolfert’s bands, a tight room split between five bands total, costs $800 a month. He lives with four roommates, one of whom is a bandmate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When asked how to best support San Francisco’s musicians, Treadway says to tip well and pay in cash. Break out of the “transaction” mindset. Sometimes people forget their waiter is “a cool person who’s working really hard, who has their own interests, who maybe has their own band,” they add.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Supporting your local restaurant is supporting your local musicians,” says Treadway. “Never forget it.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13959555\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13959555\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/240605-TheLaundromatRestaurant-03-BL_qut.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/240605-TheLaundromatRestaurant-03-BL_qut.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/240605-TheLaundromatRestaurant-03-BL_qut-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/240605-TheLaundromatRestaurant-03-BL_qut-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/240605-TheLaundromatRestaurant-03-BL_qut-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/240605-TheLaundromatRestaurant-03-BL_qut-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/240605-TheLaundromatRestaurant-03-BL_qut-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Max Edelman poses for a portrait at The Laundromat. Edelman plays in the bands Sour Widows and Roke. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The city’s music scene is a fragile ecosystem, one supported through ticket and merch sales and prenegotiated percentages of the bar. And it’s supported most directly by the musicians themselves, waiting tables and humming a song idea as they grab Table Three’s vegan cheese.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Local music survives, says Wolfert, because of places like The Laundromat, and because people in the scene help each other out. Musicians hook other musicians up with places to practice or record; they ask local acts to open when they headline; they let them know when their neighborhood pizza place is hiring.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13959563\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13959563\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/240605-TheLaundromatRestaurant-72-BL_qut.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/240605-TheLaundromatRestaurant-72-BL_qut.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/240605-TheLaundromatRestaurant-72-BL_qut-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/240605-TheLaundromatRestaurant-72-BL_qut-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/240605-TheLaundromatRestaurant-72-BL_qut-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/240605-TheLaundromatRestaurant-72-BL_qut-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/240605-TheLaundromatRestaurant-72-BL_qut-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Alex Wolfert talks with a co-worker at The Laundromat. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“As a musician, I feel like you’re working so many different jobs all at once,” says Edelman. “And then you work your job. And you’re not being paid, usually, for the music aspect.” Edelman, who’s tended bar at The Laundromat for more than a year, learned about the job from an Instagram post by Treadway, right after the two returned to San Francisco from playing South by Southwest.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Treadway calls The Laundromat “a project”; Edelman opts for a musician-artist space as well as a culinary spot. Wolfert jokes that people say from the outside, it looks like “a little cult.” (The Laundromat’s musician staff also includes Keith Frerichs of \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/theumbrellassf/\">The Umbrellas\u003c/a>, who is absent on this particular day to prepare for a North American tour.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When Wolfert worked at a prior pizza place, he says he felt validated as a musician. But there’s validation, and then there’s encouragement from managers and owners. Here, your co-workers and bosses will proactively sit down around a calendar of your upcoming tour dates. They’ll work together to cover shifts; they’ll make it happen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13959559\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13959559\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/240605-TheLaundromatRestaurant-65-BL_qut.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/240605-TheLaundromatRestaurant-65-BL_qut.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/240605-TheLaundromatRestaurant-65-BL_qut-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/240605-TheLaundromatRestaurant-65-BL_qut-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/240605-TheLaundromatRestaurant-65-BL_qut-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/240605-TheLaundromatRestaurant-65-BL_qut-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/240605-TheLaundromatRestaurant-65-BL_qut-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bumper stickers by Christopher DeLoach (@thatscoolthankyou on Instagram) hang at the entrance to The Laundromat. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Laundromat co-owners Kevin Rodgers and Jenna O’Connell don’t play music themselves, but both have histories of working with musicians in the service industry. The Laundromat, Rodgers says, is the most musician-concentrated workplace in his career. With so many band members and music lovers on staff, Rodgers says, they all just get it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Feeling like you’re in a place where your actual artistic endeavors are supported, that feels really important to me as someone who has played music my whole life,” says Treadway. “What makes people whole is being able to participate in their artistic endeavors.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ever since Treadway started in San Francisco’s music scene, people have said that the scene is dying. That everyone’s moving to L.A. They don’t think that’s true.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“There’s always going to be music in San Francisco,” Treadway says. “It’s in the DNA of the city, and has been since before any of us even were considered to exist.”\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/theumbrellassf/\">The Umbrellas\u003c/a> are currently touring North America, and play \u003ca href=\"https://dice.fm/event/wkpon-the-umbrellas-pocket-full-of-crumbs-and-latitude-29th-jun-kilowatt-san-francisco-tickets?\">Saturday, June 29, at Kilowatt in San Francisco\u003c/a>. \u003ca href=\"https://www.sourwidows.com/\">Sour Widows\u003c/a> begins a U.S. tour this month, and plays \u003ca href=\"https://theindependentsf.com/event/13375114/sour-widows/\">Saturday, July 13, at the Independent\u003c/a> in San Francisco. \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/doublehelix.peacetreaty/\">Double Helix Peace Treaty\u003c/a> plays \u003ca href=\"https://www.4-star-movies.com/calendar-of-events/credit-electric-w-dutch-interior-amp-double-helix-peace-treaty-doors-700-pm-music-730-pm\">Wednesday, August 14, at the 4 Star Theater\u003c/a> in San Francisco.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "Free Mochi Pizza For National Pizza Day? Yes, Please",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">A few months ago, my wife — who, like me, is an avid pizza head — sent me news about an interesting new style of pizza we’d never heard of, but wanted to devour: mochi pizza.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Served at \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/mochikomochipizza/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Mochiko\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> in Burlingame, the rare, rectangular pies use mochigome — a form of Japanese glutinous rice that is steamed then turned into a chewy paste — instead of traditional flour dough. Though we haven’t been able to make the trip out to Burlingame yet (\u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/11973704/things-to-do-bay-area-with-children\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">it’s not always easy getting out of the house with an infant\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">), it’s on my short list of foods I’m willing to pay my share of gas money to try.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13931296,arts_13928196']\u003c/span>With Japanese-inspired flavors like chicken curry (which features chicken karaage and Japanese curry) in addition to classics like pepperoni, Mochiko appears to be carving (slicing?) out a niche lane as what they claim to be \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.sfgate.com/food/article/bay-area-mochiko-mochi-pizza-opening-18457749.php\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">the first ever mochi pizzeria\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. The idea, it seems, is to create a \u003ca href=\"https://www.mochipizza.com/faq/\">gluten-free crust\u003c/a> that combines \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/restaurants/article/best-new-bay-area-18517990.php\">crispy outer edges\u003c/a> with a stretchy, chewy interior. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Now, the restaurant is making it even easier for Bay Area eaters to experience the mochi fusion by introducing a second location — essentially a new menu available inside the Palo Alto branch of \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/sushirrito/?hl=en\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Sushirrito\u003c/span>\u003c/a>. (P\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">erhaps unsurprisingly, t\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">he owners of Mochiko are also the ones behind that hybrid sushi burrito chain.) \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Having soft-launched at the end of January, Mochiko’s new outpost will celebrate its official grand opening on Friday, Feb. 9 — which also happens to be National Pizza Day. To add extra sauce to their deal, the Palo Alto shop will serve free slices that day, from 4 to 6 p.m. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Since it’s easier for me to get to this location, expect to find me finally checking mochi pizza off my things-you-can-only-eat-in-the-Bay-Area bingo card. I’m sure I won’t be the only one.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-12127869\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/mochikomochipizza/\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Mochiko Mochi Pizza\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> (448 University Ave., Palo Alto, inside Sushirrito) will host its grand opening on Fri., Feb. 9, when it will serve free slices from 4 to 6 p.m. Moving forward, the restaurant will be open daily from noon to 8 p.m.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">A few months ago, my wife — who, like me, is an avid pizza head — sent me news about an interesting new style of pizza we’d never heard of, but wanted to devour: mochi pizza.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Served at \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/mochikomochipizza/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Mochiko\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> in Burlingame, the rare, rectangular pies use mochigome — a form of Japanese glutinous rice that is steamed then turned into a chewy paste — instead of traditional flour dough. Though we haven’t been able to make the trip out to Burlingame yet (\u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/11973704/things-to-do-bay-area-with-children\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">it’s not always easy getting out of the house with an infant\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">), it’s on my short list of foods I’m willing to pay my share of gas money to try.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>With Japanese-inspired flavors like chicken curry (which features chicken karaage and Japanese curry) in addition to classics like pepperoni, Mochiko appears to be carving (slicing?) out a niche lane as what they claim to be \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.sfgate.com/food/article/bay-area-mochiko-mochi-pizza-opening-18457749.php\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">the first ever mochi pizzeria\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. The idea, it seems, is to create a \u003ca href=\"https://www.mochipizza.com/faq/\">gluten-free crust\u003c/a> that combines \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/restaurants/article/best-new-bay-area-18517990.php\">crispy outer edges\u003c/a> with a stretchy, chewy interior. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Now, the restaurant is making it even easier for Bay Area eaters to experience the mochi fusion by introducing a second location — essentially a new menu available inside the Palo Alto branch of \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/sushirrito/?hl=en\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Sushirrito\u003c/span>\u003c/a>. (P\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">erhaps unsurprisingly, t\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">he owners of Mochiko are also the ones behind that hybrid sushi burrito chain.) \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Having soft-launched at the end of January, Mochiko’s new outpost will celebrate its official grand opening on Friday, Feb. 9 — which also happens to be National Pizza Day. To add extra sauce to their deal, the Palo Alto shop will serve free slices that day, from 4 to 6 p.m. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Since it’s easier for me to get to this location, expect to find me finally checking mochi pizza off my things-you-can-only-eat-in-the-Bay-Area bingo card. I’m sure I won’t be the only one.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-12127869\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/mochikomochipizza/\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Mochiko Mochi Pizza\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> (448 University Ave., Palo Alto, inside Sushirrito) will host its grand opening on Fri., Feb. 9, when it will serve free slices from 4 to 6 p.m. Moving forward, the restaurant will be open daily from noon to 8 p.m.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>In my former life as a UC Berkeley student, the industrial blocks around Gilman Street in West Berkeley never seemed to offer much outside of Pyramid Brewing — which was one of the first microbreweries in the region but, sadly, \u003ca href=\"https://eastbayexpress.com/pyramid-alehouses-berkeley-location-shuts-down-2-1/\">no longer exists\u003c/a>. Admittedly, I don’t remember visiting Gilman very often in those days, unless I needed to reach the freeway.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In recent years, however, \u003ca href=\"https://www.berkeleyside.org/2023/04/14/berkeley-natural-wine-guide\">a sparkling concentration of wineries and breweries\u003c/a> have emerged to revitalize this particular stretch of the neighborhood, turning sparse lots into an inviting space to imbibe natural wines and explore a constant rotation of the Bay Area’s latest food pop-ups. And I’m here for it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The area — anchored around the intersection of Gilman and Fifth — offers a combination of outdoor seating, chill warehouse vibes and a mingling of young families and hipster adults in an easily overlooked sliver of the East Bay. It’s an ideal location for something like \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/ureliospizza/?hl=en\">Urelio’s\u003c/a>, a pop-up \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/pizza\">pizzeria\u003c/a> on wheels run from the back of a 1989 Ford F-250. Owners Samuel Ciccarelli and Rosie Dooley toss their pizzas all over the East Bay, but they most frequently appear at \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/broccellars/?hl=en\">Broc Cellars\u003c/a>, one of West Berkeley’s most popular upstart wineries.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you’re a pizza traditionalist infatuated with the classically thin Neapolitan crust, then Urelio’s is definitely your kind of slice. Envision an oven-fresh, fire-kissed chewiness with simple, quality toppings. Without question, Ciccarelli, the main pizza chef, has perfected the balance of old-world favorites like the classic margherita and marinara. He also obsesses over seasonal showcases, including a corn, mushroom and lemon pie this summer, and an experimental rendition of vitello tonnato (an elegant Italian dish of veal with tuna sauce).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While slammed with orders on a hot July afternoon, Ciccarelli and his team turned naturally leavened sourdough into wood-flamed perfection with nothing more than a bundle of fresh ingredients, patience and a love for excellent pie-making. Here’s what Ciccarelli had to say about his journey from working as a cook in high-end kitchens around the country to shoveling pizzas from the back of his truck.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13931322\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13931322\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/07/Sam-800x541.jpg\" alt=\"A man wearing a Urelio's Pizza shirt takes a pizza out of an oven that is attached to a pick up truck at an outdoor food pop-up in Berkeley\" width=\"800\" height=\"541\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/07/Sam-800x541.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/07/Sam-1020x690.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/07/Sam-160x108.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/07/Sam-768x519.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/07/Sam-1536x1039.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/07/Sam.jpg 1893w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sam Ciccarelli patiently stokes the fire and handles pizza making from a self-built oven at Urelio’s. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>This interview has been edited for length and clarity.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp style=\"text-align: center\">********\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>ALAN CHAZARO: I get the sense that Urelio’s is a tribute to someone important in your life. What’s your connection to that name?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13931313\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 480px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-13931313 size-full\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/07/urelios_dough_720.jpg\" alt=\"A man wearing a Urelio's Pizza shirt stretches pizza dough at an outdoor food pop-up in Berkeley\" width=\"480\" height=\"720\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/07/urelios_dough_720.jpg 480w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/07/urelios_dough_720-160x240.jpg 160w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 480px) 100vw, 480px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Naturally leavened dough is prepared for the oven. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>SAM CICCARELLI:\u003c/b> That’s my great-grandfather’s name. He used to live in Modesto on our family ranch and we’d go to his house for big family gatherings. Full tables of pasta, salad, tri-tip. My earliest food memories were always at his house as a central gathering place. It felt proper to pay respect to him and the atmosphere he curated for the family. His parents immigrated here from Italy, first to San Jose, then Modesto. Back then, they had a family farm that grew almonds and walnuts. Urelio lived on that farm throughout his life, and now my grandfather lives on the ranch. They sold the orchards but still live on the property.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Did you grow up in Modesto as well?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I grew up in Modesto, but a lot of our family lives in the Bay Area. I spent summers in San Francisco at my aunt and uncle’s apartment, right near Ghirardelli Square. I would skate around there and eat food. It left a big impression on me. I’ve been fortunate to travel to other places, but every time I visit a new city it makes me reflect on how much I love the Bay and want to invest in this community. My partner, Rosie, feels the same. We’ve both always wanted to have a restaurant in San Francisco, and that’s still our goal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>You began by working at restaurants in New York City, and later at Chez Panisse in Berkeley. What was your role there, and what drew you towards pizza making?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My role changed quite a bit at Chez over my four years there. I was an intern at first, then I worked the line — the pizza oven, the grill, the salad station. I always loved pizza. My first job ever was at a place in Modesto that served tapas and pizza. We always ordered pizza there, and it was owned by family friends. I had never really thought too much about making it, though, until I had exposure at Chez. My partner Rosie and I met while working there. When we went on dates, she’d always take us out to pizza places. I realized later on that she was listening to me more than I was listening to myself, since I always talked about pizza.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>During the pandemic, when \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfgate.com/food/article/Chez-Panisse-Berkeley-takeout-sandwiches-Waters-15446533.php\">Chez began doing a marketplace\u003c/a> because of shelter in place, there came a time when we were going to do pizzas, and the chefs asked me to help get that off the ground. To go from not working with food for months and then being in front of the oven again, starting fires, making pizzas every day, it was a major outlet that I wanted to focus on. Pizza is such a common ground for people. It’s approachable for anyone.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13931309\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13931309\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/07/urelios_making-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"A man wearing a Urelio's Pizza shirt places toppings on pizzas at an outdoor food pop-up in Berkeley\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/07/urelios_making-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/07/urelios_making-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/07/urelios_making-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/07/urelios_making-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/07/urelios_making-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/07/urelios_making.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Urelio’s uses naturally leavened dough with seasonal California ingredients. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Have you ever been to Italy?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I still have family there along the Adriatic in a tiny fishing village. They visited us about 10 years ago. I’ve been to Europe and interned at Noma in Copenhagen, but I actually haven’t been to Italy yet. We’re due to visit it soon and plan to go on our honeymoon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>You operate Urelio’s from a mobile oven attached to a modified Ford F-250 truck. Tell me about the oven — and about the truck — and how it all came together for you.\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I knew I really wanted to make pizza and was thinking of a way to get our product out. In a world with a lot of pizza makers doing similar things, I was thinking of doing something different. I’ve always liked classic stuff — old cars, things like that. At first I was thinking of making a pizza trailer, but I’d seen that, and I didn’t even have a trailer. But my family used to have a Ford truck on the family ranch. It’s a simple, clean look. I wondered about building an oven on a truck like that. It’s one of the only vehicles that can actually hold the weight. So I bought [a Ford F-250] from a dairy farmer in Petaluma. That was the first piece for us, and then we conceptualized the oven.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13931324\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13931324\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/07/urelios_truck-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"a vintage Ford pick up with a Urelio's Pizza logo on the passenger door\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/07/urelios_truck-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/07/urelios_truck-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/07/urelios_truck-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/07/urelios_truck-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/07/urelios_truck-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/07/urelios_truck.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Urelio’s 1989 Ford F-250 reminds Ciccareli of his great grandfather’s life as a Modesto farmer. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>How does one build and install a pizza oven on a truck?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13928196,arts_13917120,arts_13930138']\u003c/span>It’s a lot of work. I bought the core of the oven precast, and we mounted it onto the truck bed and built from there. What goes into building it, you can use a steel core or refractory cement. There’s a specific one I love from Italy. The floor is one piece so there’s no cracks, and it’s better for heat retention and not allowing cold spots. I have no masonry experience, so I couldn’t cast it myself. So you can buy the core and the internal dome. You get about 1,200 pounds of oven. Then you do the rest: a plate on the bottom, vibration isolators under that. You weld a mold around it to hold it all in place. We used aircraft cables over that. It’s fully on the plate. It’ll only come off with a forklift if I unbolt it first.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I have another job, so it was a lot to do whenever we could. My friend who helped would come over after his job, and then we’d work on the oven at night with headlamps. It took about two months to build it and make it usable. It was a great workout for the tendons in my wrist and arms that I never even knew I had.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>It seems laborious, but clearly the results are delicious. What draws you to the grind of making wood-fired pizzas without taking any shortcuts?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I love the romance of it. It feels primal to take a fire in an oven and tend it through the day and then try to control it and make a product that already can be wild, especially when it’s naturally leavened. There’s levels to the details you have to pay attention to. Like making art. If you throw too many logs, the temperature spikes and it won’t come out right. There’s a delicate balance, and I feel connected to that craft. Using fire was one of the first ways pizza was made in Naples. I think it’s cool to be connected to those roots. There’s always tweaks to be made, but if it’s just right — the proofing, the fire, the balanced toppings, a crispy oven bake, the timing — it feels perfect. It’s too nice of an end product to be okay with anything less than that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13931310\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13931310\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/07/urelios_mortadella_pie-800x1200.jpg\" alt=\"A woman wearing a Urelio's Pizza shirt slices a baloney and cheese pizza at an outdoor food pop-up in Berkeley\" width=\"800\" height=\"1200\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/07/urelios_mortadella_pie-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/07/urelios_mortadella_pie-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/07/urelios_mortadella_pie-160x240.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/07/urelios_mortadella_pie-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/07/urelios_mortadella_pie-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/07/urelios_mortadella_pie-1365x2048.jpg 1365w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/07/urelios_mortadella_pie-scaled.jpg 1707w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A whole pie is freshly sliced at Urelio’s. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>On weeknights my family usually just orders Little Caesars, but I appreciate the artistry and delicacy of the craft.\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There’s a place for everything. I love all pizza. I’ll eat it all. That’s the fun thing. There are so many pizza genres. They’re all different kinds of expressions. I personally just love the wood fire. Starting the fire every morning is so peaceful. You continually stoke it for the entire day. It’s a careful balance. You might notice the oven dipping, so you have to choose a certain size of log. Or it might be too intense and you have to scale back. I have to split logs ahead of time and sort them by size at home, and then I stack them in a certain way by the truck so I know which ones to use depending on what the fire needs when I’m on the line. If there are lots of customers that day and I have to pump out more pizzas, I’ll toss in the biggest log. Those kinds of things. It’s a fun challenge.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What are your thoughts on the Bay Area’s pizza scene overall, and who — besides yourself — makes your favorite pies?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Bay Area is having a pizza moment right now. There’s lots of attention on it. Rosie and I love going to \u003ca href=\"https://www.rosepizzeria.com/\">Rose Pizzeria\u003c/a> in Berkeley. It’s a cozy family spot with tasty stuff and great wine. I also enjoy \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thatsouttasight/?hl=en\">Outta Sight Pizza\u003c/a> in the Tenderloin. It’s a slice shop. Super cool. It’s run by some skaters, and I used to skateboard, so I like that \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13928196/pizza-supreme-being-sourdough-punk-rock-skateboard-merch-sacramento\">connection between pizza makers and people into skating\u003c/a>, punk, surfing. I feel that connection and admire seeing it from afar. I also love Pollara, although \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2023/6/12/23758287/berkeley-pollara-pizzeria-closing\">I heard they’re moving back to New Jersey\u003c/a>. Oh, and \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/pizzeriadelfina/?hl=en\">Delfina\u003c/a>. That’s a classic San Franciscan spot I ate at growing up. One of the people who trained me at Chez worked there for a long time. It’s sentimental.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-12127869\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-800x78.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/ureliospizza/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Urelio’s Pizza\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> operates on a limited pop-up schedule with rotating locations around the East Bay. \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.ureliospizza.com/\">\u003ci>Check their page for details\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> about upcoming events.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>In my former life as a UC Berkeley student, the industrial blocks around Gilman Street in West Berkeley never seemed to offer much outside of Pyramid Brewing — which was one of the first microbreweries in the region but, sadly, \u003ca href=\"https://eastbayexpress.com/pyramid-alehouses-berkeley-location-shuts-down-2-1/\">no longer exists\u003c/a>. Admittedly, I don’t remember visiting Gilman very often in those days, unless I needed to reach the freeway.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In recent years, however, \u003ca href=\"https://www.berkeleyside.org/2023/04/14/berkeley-natural-wine-guide\">a sparkling concentration of wineries and breweries\u003c/a> have emerged to revitalize this particular stretch of the neighborhood, turning sparse lots into an inviting space to imbibe natural wines and explore a constant rotation of the Bay Area’s latest food pop-ups. And I’m here for it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The area — anchored around the intersection of Gilman and Fifth — offers a combination of outdoor seating, chill warehouse vibes and a mingling of young families and hipster adults in an easily overlooked sliver of the East Bay. It’s an ideal location for something like \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/ureliospizza/?hl=en\">Urelio’s\u003c/a>, a pop-up \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/pizza\">pizzeria\u003c/a> on wheels run from the back of a 1989 Ford F-250. Owners Samuel Ciccarelli and Rosie Dooley toss their pizzas all over the East Bay, but they most frequently appear at \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/broccellars/?hl=en\">Broc Cellars\u003c/a>, one of West Berkeley’s most popular upstart wineries.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you’re a pizza traditionalist infatuated with the classically thin Neapolitan crust, then Urelio’s is definitely your kind of slice. Envision an oven-fresh, fire-kissed chewiness with simple, quality toppings. Without question, Ciccarelli, the main pizza chef, has perfected the balance of old-world favorites like the classic margherita and marinara. He also obsesses over seasonal showcases, including a corn, mushroom and lemon pie this summer, and an experimental rendition of vitello tonnato (an elegant Italian dish of veal with tuna sauce).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While slammed with orders on a hot July afternoon, Ciccarelli and his team turned naturally leavened sourdough into wood-flamed perfection with nothing more than a bundle of fresh ingredients, patience and a love for excellent pie-making. Here’s what Ciccarelli had to say about his journey from working as a cook in high-end kitchens around the country to shoveling pizzas from the back of his truck.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13931322\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13931322\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/07/Sam-800x541.jpg\" alt=\"A man wearing a Urelio's Pizza shirt takes a pizza out of an oven that is attached to a pick up truck at an outdoor food pop-up in Berkeley\" width=\"800\" height=\"541\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/07/Sam-800x541.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/07/Sam-1020x690.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/07/Sam-160x108.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/07/Sam-768x519.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/07/Sam-1536x1039.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/07/Sam.jpg 1893w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sam Ciccarelli patiently stokes the fire and handles pizza making from a self-built oven at Urelio’s. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>This interview has been edited for length and clarity.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp style=\"text-align: center\">********\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>ALAN CHAZARO: I get the sense that Urelio’s is a tribute to someone important in your life. What’s your connection to that name?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13931313\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 480px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-13931313 size-full\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/07/urelios_dough_720.jpg\" alt=\"A man wearing a Urelio's Pizza shirt stretches pizza dough at an outdoor food pop-up in Berkeley\" width=\"480\" height=\"720\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/07/urelios_dough_720.jpg 480w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/07/urelios_dough_720-160x240.jpg 160w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 480px) 100vw, 480px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Naturally leavened dough is prepared for the oven. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>SAM CICCARELLI:\u003c/b> That’s my great-grandfather’s name. He used to live in Modesto on our family ranch and we’d go to his house for big family gatherings. Full tables of pasta, salad, tri-tip. My earliest food memories were always at his house as a central gathering place. It felt proper to pay respect to him and the atmosphere he curated for the family. His parents immigrated here from Italy, first to San Jose, then Modesto. Back then, they had a family farm that grew almonds and walnuts. Urelio lived on that farm throughout his life, and now my grandfather lives on the ranch. They sold the orchards but still live on the property.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Did you grow up in Modesto as well?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I grew up in Modesto, but a lot of our family lives in the Bay Area. I spent summers in San Francisco at my aunt and uncle’s apartment, right near Ghirardelli Square. I would skate around there and eat food. It left a big impression on me. I’ve been fortunate to travel to other places, but every time I visit a new city it makes me reflect on how much I love the Bay and want to invest in this community. My partner, Rosie, feels the same. We’ve both always wanted to have a restaurant in San Francisco, and that’s still our goal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>You began by working at restaurants in New York City, and later at Chez Panisse in Berkeley. What was your role there, and what drew you towards pizza making?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My role changed quite a bit at Chez over my four years there. I was an intern at first, then I worked the line — the pizza oven, the grill, the salad station. I always loved pizza. My first job ever was at a place in Modesto that served tapas and pizza. We always ordered pizza there, and it was owned by family friends. I had never really thought too much about making it, though, until I had exposure at Chez. My partner Rosie and I met while working there. When we went on dates, she’d always take us out to pizza places. I realized later on that she was listening to me more than I was listening to myself, since I always talked about pizza.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>During the pandemic, when \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfgate.com/food/article/Chez-Panisse-Berkeley-takeout-sandwiches-Waters-15446533.php\">Chez began doing a marketplace\u003c/a> because of shelter in place, there came a time when we were going to do pizzas, and the chefs asked me to help get that off the ground. To go from not working with food for months and then being in front of the oven again, starting fires, making pizzas every day, it was a major outlet that I wanted to focus on. Pizza is such a common ground for people. It’s approachable for anyone.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13931309\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13931309\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/07/urelios_making-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"A man wearing a Urelio's Pizza shirt places toppings on pizzas at an outdoor food pop-up in Berkeley\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/07/urelios_making-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/07/urelios_making-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/07/urelios_making-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/07/urelios_making-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/07/urelios_making-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/07/urelios_making.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Urelio’s uses naturally leavened dough with seasonal California ingredients. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Have you ever been to Italy?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I still have family there along the Adriatic in a tiny fishing village. They visited us about 10 years ago. I’ve been to Europe and interned at Noma in Copenhagen, but I actually haven’t been to Italy yet. We’re due to visit it soon and plan to go on our honeymoon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>You operate Urelio’s from a mobile oven attached to a modified Ford F-250 truck. Tell me about the oven — and about the truck — and how it all came together for you.\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I knew I really wanted to make pizza and was thinking of a way to get our product out. In a world with a lot of pizza makers doing similar things, I was thinking of doing something different. I’ve always liked classic stuff — old cars, things like that. At first I was thinking of making a pizza trailer, but I’d seen that, and I didn’t even have a trailer. But my family used to have a Ford truck on the family ranch. It’s a simple, clean look. I wondered about building an oven on a truck like that. It’s one of the only vehicles that can actually hold the weight. So I bought [a Ford F-250] from a dairy farmer in Petaluma. That was the first piece for us, and then we conceptualized the oven.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13931324\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13931324\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/07/urelios_truck-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"a vintage Ford pick up with a Urelio's Pizza logo on the passenger door\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/07/urelios_truck-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/07/urelios_truck-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/07/urelios_truck-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/07/urelios_truck-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/07/urelios_truck-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/07/urelios_truck.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Urelio’s 1989 Ford F-250 reminds Ciccareli of his great grandfather’s life as a Modesto farmer. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>How does one build and install a pizza oven on a truck?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>It’s a lot of work. I bought the core of the oven precast, and we mounted it onto the truck bed and built from there. What goes into building it, you can use a steel core or refractory cement. There’s a specific one I love from Italy. The floor is one piece so there’s no cracks, and it’s better for heat retention and not allowing cold spots. I have no masonry experience, so I couldn’t cast it myself. So you can buy the core and the internal dome. You get about 1,200 pounds of oven. Then you do the rest: a plate on the bottom, vibration isolators under that. You weld a mold around it to hold it all in place. We used aircraft cables over that. It’s fully on the plate. It’ll only come off with a forklift if I unbolt it first.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I have another job, so it was a lot to do whenever we could. My friend who helped would come over after his job, and then we’d work on the oven at night with headlamps. It took about two months to build it and make it usable. It was a great workout for the tendons in my wrist and arms that I never even knew I had.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>It seems laborious, but clearly the results are delicious. What draws you to the grind of making wood-fired pizzas without taking any shortcuts?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I love the romance of it. It feels primal to take a fire in an oven and tend it through the day and then try to control it and make a product that already can be wild, especially when it’s naturally leavened. There’s levels to the details you have to pay attention to. Like making art. If you throw too many logs, the temperature spikes and it won’t come out right. There’s a delicate balance, and I feel connected to that craft. Using fire was one of the first ways pizza was made in Naples. I think it’s cool to be connected to those roots. There’s always tweaks to be made, but if it’s just right — the proofing, the fire, the balanced toppings, a crispy oven bake, the timing — it feels perfect. It’s too nice of an end product to be okay with anything less than that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13931310\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13931310\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/07/urelios_mortadella_pie-800x1200.jpg\" alt=\"A woman wearing a Urelio's Pizza shirt slices a baloney and cheese pizza at an outdoor food pop-up in Berkeley\" width=\"800\" height=\"1200\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/07/urelios_mortadella_pie-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/07/urelios_mortadella_pie-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/07/urelios_mortadella_pie-160x240.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/07/urelios_mortadella_pie-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/07/urelios_mortadella_pie-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/07/urelios_mortadella_pie-1365x2048.jpg 1365w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/07/urelios_mortadella_pie-scaled.jpg 1707w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A whole pie is freshly sliced at Urelio’s. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>On weeknights my family usually just orders Little Caesars, but I appreciate the artistry and delicacy of the craft.\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There’s a place for everything. I love all pizza. I’ll eat it all. That’s the fun thing. There are so many pizza genres. They’re all different kinds of expressions. I personally just love the wood fire. Starting the fire every morning is so peaceful. You continually stoke it for the entire day. It’s a careful balance. You might notice the oven dipping, so you have to choose a certain size of log. Or it might be too intense and you have to scale back. I have to split logs ahead of time and sort them by size at home, and then I stack them in a certain way by the truck so I know which ones to use depending on what the fire needs when I’m on the line. If there are lots of customers that day and I have to pump out more pizzas, I’ll toss in the biggest log. Those kinds of things. It’s a fun challenge.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What are your thoughts on the Bay Area’s pizza scene overall, and who — besides yourself — makes your favorite pies?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Bay Area is having a pizza moment right now. There’s lots of attention on it. Rosie and I love going to \u003ca href=\"https://www.rosepizzeria.com/\">Rose Pizzeria\u003c/a> in Berkeley. It’s a cozy family spot with tasty stuff and great wine. I also enjoy \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thatsouttasight/?hl=en\">Outta Sight Pizza\u003c/a> in the Tenderloin. It’s a slice shop. Super cool. It’s run by some skaters, and I used to skateboard, so I like that \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13928196/pizza-supreme-being-sourdough-punk-rock-skateboard-merch-sacramento\">connection between pizza makers and people into skating\u003c/a>, punk, surfing. I feel that connection and admire seeing it from afar. I also love Pollara, although \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2023/6/12/23758287/berkeley-pollara-pizzeria-closing\">I heard they’re moving back to New Jersey\u003c/a>. Oh, and \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/pizzeriadelfina/?hl=en\">Delfina\u003c/a>. That’s a classic San Franciscan spot I ate at growing up. One of the people who trained me at Chez worked there for a long time. It’s sentimental.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-12127869\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-800x78.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/ureliospizza/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Urelio’s Pizza\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> operates on a limited pop-up schedule with rotating locations around the East Bay. \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.ureliospizza.com/\">\u003ci>Check their page for details\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> about upcoming events.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "How a Punk Rock–Inspired Pizza Shop Helped Me Feel at Home in Sacramento",
"headTitle": "How a Punk Rock–Inspired Pizza Shop Helped Me Feel at Home in Sacramento | KQED",
"content": "\u003cp>Two summers ago, when I told a fellow skater and frequent local of the Rockridge BART parking lot — a popular Oakland skate spot — that I was moving to Sacramento, he immediately recommended \u003ca href=\"https://www.pizzasupremebeing.com/\">Pizza Supreme Being\u003c/a>. The downtown pizzeria was, in his opinion, one of the city’s best.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Food recommendations are an everyday occurrence, but a referral from a skater — a member of a subculture rich with niche tastes and preferences measured to the millimeter, plus a ground level relationship with cities — is something I take to heart.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Located steps from the California State Capitol Park on the corner of 14th and O Streets, Pizza Supreme Being is what I frequently describe as a spotless, well-organized merch table at a hardcore show that just happens to sell amazing sourdough slices and pies. According to co-owner Ben Roberts, I’m not far off.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I legitimately run this brand like I would a hardcore band or like a skateboard company,” Roberts explains. He approaches speciality pizza pies “as like a single for a band.” Limited, one-and-done merch drops create the type of cultural FOMO Roberts himself has fallen victim to, growing up skateboarding, playing in bands and going to underground shows. “I love seeing things out in the wild that I did happen to miss,” he explains. “It brings me back to those moments and things in my life that I was always so drawn to. I gotta make sure that I don’t lose touch with that.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13928215\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13928215\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/pizza-supreme-being-crew-color-correct.jpg\" alt=\"Ben Roberts in a black punk rock T-shirt poses along with his pizza shop's employees, all dressed in white.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/pizza-supreme-being-crew-color-correct.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/pizza-supreme-being-crew-color-correct-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/pizza-supreme-being-crew-color-correct-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/pizza-supreme-being-crew-color-correct-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/pizza-supreme-being-crew-color-correct-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/pizza-supreme-being-crew-color-correct-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Roberts (left) and his crew run the shop like it’s a skateboard brand or like they’re selling merch at a hardcore punk show. \u003ccite>(José Vadi)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>After years in fine dining, Roberts started Pizza Supreme Being as a pop-up around 2015 after building a transportable wood-fire oven. He spent four years serving slices at bars and wineries on weekends, building a local following serving pies with a more standard yeasted dough before transitioning to naturally leavened sourdough per the recommendation of wife and business partner, Pembe Sonmez-Roberts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“You have to feed the [sourdough] starter twice a day,” Roberts says, explaining that this wasn’t practical in the business’s early years. Once they made the switch, however, the end result tasted “worlds better.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They got keys to the restaurant in March 2019, opened by April, and celebrated their one-year anniversary by transitioning to shelter in place during the first wave of the COVID-19 pandemic. Three years later, “I feel like this is what’s normal,” Roberts explains. Even now the restaurant only offers outdoor dining and to-go orders.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And while the original restaurant dream was fork and knives with wood-fired pies, the reality-driven plan is affordable slices and pies “with superior ingredients.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I put all of our focus on our dough and our cheese blend,” Roberts says, detailing the organic tomatoes and never-bromated U.S. milled flour he uses daily. He also makes a signature homemade ranch dressing that when purchased online includes a YouTube tutorial link from Roberts himself. But lest you think everything on the menu has artisanal ambitions, Roberts says, “I also put Spam on pizza.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Spam is a trademark of the restaurant’s take on Hawaiian pizza, along with jalapeño and pineapple. The Heatwave Pizza combines hot coppa with jalapeño and Mike’s Hot Honey. And regulars know to come early (and hungry) enough to snag a square pepperoni slice, topped to the Detroit-style corners with pepperoni cups, before they sell out — and make no mistake, Pizza Supreme Being’s whole lineup of pizza always winds up selling out. Lining up to the kiosk window to place an order feels less like an exclusive foodie experience and more akin to buying tickets to a show. Slices are served to your seats outside, where government professionals, cross-city bike crews, pre-gaming hardcore show kids, skaters, families and beyond intersect in allegiance to a supreme being of a sourdough crust perfected to the last bite.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13928222\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1080px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13928222\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/332794941_174738161951148_860703287127675705_n.jpg\" alt=\"Overhead view of a pizza topped with hot coppa and jalapeños. \" width=\"1080\" height=\"1080\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/332794941_174738161951148_860703287127675705_n.jpg 1080w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/332794941_174738161951148_860703287127675705_n-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/332794941_174738161951148_860703287127675705_n-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/332794941_174738161951148_860703287127675705_n-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/332794941_174738161951148_860703287127675705_n-768x768.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1080px) 100vw, 1080px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Heatwave pizza combines hot coppa, jalapeños and Mike’s Hot Honey. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Pizza Supreme Being/Instagram)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>What’s also impressive for such a small restaurant is that it hosts a whole network of local, multicultural food industry upstarts. Eddie Torres, who works full-time at Pizza Supreme Being, recently debuted a pizza featuring achiote marinated pork sausage and mojo verde as part of his own pop-up, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/lacocina_de_carmen/\">La Cocina de Carmen\u003c/a> — his “vision of a California cuisine restaurant with Puerto Rican influence.” The restaurant has also hosted \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/congeecult/\">Congee Cult\u003c/a>, a two-person pop-up serving new takes on Chinese rice porridge.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13919707,arts_13915581,news_11815327']\u003c/span>Part of this community-driven mindset is a direct product of the music scenes Roberts grew up with. Now, with limited free time as a business owner and new parent, Roberts stays connected to those scenes by offering a good meal to visiting hardcore acts like Candy, Extinguish, Big Boy and the Los Angeles powerviolence band Zulu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I try my best to look at tour dates of bands that I really enjoy, or even ones I haven’t listened to that much, and just say ‘Pull up and I’ll feed you,’” Robert explains. “I know that they’re hungry, on the road, eating fast food.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sometimes Roberts lets these touring bands, like San Jose’s Sunami, set up a little merch pop-up — and, like any proper skate shop or hardcore band, the restaurant offers its own line of cheeky merch as well. One of my personal favorites is a T-shirt featuring a hand-drawn character inspired by Youth of Today lead singer Ray Cappo leaping mid-air, mid-song. The restaurant sells \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/CpBhzYzvJpm/?hl=en\">bumper stickers\u003c/a> that advocate for pepperoni cups and playfully trolls corporate ranch dressing manufacturers with the simple question, “Where the Heck is Hidden Valley?”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13928223\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1080px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13928223\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/332557431_949086672784735_8808409291648642488_n.jpg\" alt='Bumper stickers arranged on a white pizza box: \"Gas...Brake...Dip...Your Pizza in Ranch,\" \"I Went to Pizza Supreme Being and All I Got Was This Lousy Bumper Sticker,\" \"Welcome to Sacramento, We Dip Our Pizza in Ranch,\" \"I Brake for Pepperoni Cups,\" and \"Where the Heck Is Hidden Valley?\"' width=\"1080\" height=\"1080\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/332557431_949086672784735_8808409291648642488_n.jpg 1080w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/332557431_949086672784735_8808409291648642488_n-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/332557431_949086672784735_8808409291648642488_n-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/332557431_949086672784735_8808409291648642488_n-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/332557431_949086672784735_8808409291648642488_n-768x768.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1080px) 100vw, 1080px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The pizza brand’s merch lineup includes a selection of cheeky pepperoni- and ranch dressing-themed bumper stickers. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Pizza Supreme Being/Instagram)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>While a small, punk-inspired pizza shop might seem like an unlikely avatar for Sacramento’s acclaimed food scene, a sense of local pride is palpable in everything that Pizza Supreme Being produces. The restaurant’s Instagram Stories often feature selfies of Roberts posing in front of the beam lit above the Golden 1 Center after every Kings win, and the chef is effusive about how much cool stuff is happening in the capital city.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If the best parts of skateboarding, hardcore and similar subcultures are the communities they engender, why wouldn’t that also be true for a pizza restaurant? For me, Pizza Supreme Being has been a welcome portal into a Sacramento scene I’m still slowly getting to know — one whose hard-working ethos speaks for itself.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I get really tired of being compared to other cities — the rising this or the next that,” Roberts says. “Just let us be us and see what we got.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12127869\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.pizzasupremebeing.com/\">\u003ci>Pizza Supreme Being\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is located at 1425 14th St., Ste. C, in Sacramento. Open Wed.–Sun., noon to 8:30 p.m. (or until sold out). Cashless — order \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://curbyourpickup.square.site/\">\u003ci>online\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> or call 916-917-5559. Follow them on \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/pizzasupremebeing/\">\u003ci>Instagram\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. \u003c/i>\u003ci>\u003cbr>\n\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Two summers ago, when I told a fellow skater and frequent local of the Rockridge BART parking lot — a popular Oakland skate spot — that I was moving to Sacramento, he immediately recommended \u003ca href=\"https://www.pizzasupremebeing.com/\">Pizza Supreme Being\u003c/a>. The downtown pizzeria was, in his opinion, one of the city’s best.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Food recommendations are an everyday occurrence, but a referral from a skater — a member of a subculture rich with niche tastes and preferences measured to the millimeter, plus a ground level relationship with cities — is something I take to heart.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Located steps from the California State Capitol Park on the corner of 14th and O Streets, Pizza Supreme Being is what I frequently describe as a spotless, well-organized merch table at a hardcore show that just happens to sell amazing sourdough slices and pies. According to co-owner Ben Roberts, I’m not far off.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I legitimately run this brand like I would a hardcore band or like a skateboard company,” Roberts explains. He approaches speciality pizza pies “as like a single for a band.” Limited, one-and-done merch drops create the type of cultural FOMO Roberts himself has fallen victim to, growing up skateboarding, playing in bands and going to underground shows. “I love seeing things out in the wild that I did happen to miss,” he explains. “It brings me back to those moments and things in my life that I was always so drawn to. I gotta make sure that I don’t lose touch with that.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13928215\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13928215\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/pizza-supreme-being-crew-color-correct.jpg\" alt=\"Ben Roberts in a black punk rock T-shirt poses along with his pizza shop's employees, all dressed in white.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/pizza-supreme-being-crew-color-correct.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/pizza-supreme-being-crew-color-correct-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/pizza-supreme-being-crew-color-correct-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/pizza-supreme-being-crew-color-correct-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/pizza-supreme-being-crew-color-correct-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/pizza-supreme-being-crew-color-correct-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Roberts (left) and his crew run the shop like it’s a skateboard brand or like they’re selling merch at a hardcore punk show. \u003ccite>(José Vadi)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>After years in fine dining, Roberts started Pizza Supreme Being as a pop-up around 2015 after building a transportable wood-fire oven. He spent four years serving slices at bars and wineries on weekends, building a local following serving pies with a more standard yeasted dough before transitioning to naturally leavened sourdough per the recommendation of wife and business partner, Pembe Sonmez-Roberts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“You have to feed the [sourdough] starter twice a day,” Roberts says, explaining that this wasn’t practical in the business’s early years. Once they made the switch, however, the end result tasted “worlds better.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They got keys to the restaurant in March 2019, opened by April, and celebrated their one-year anniversary by transitioning to shelter in place during the first wave of the COVID-19 pandemic. Three years later, “I feel like this is what’s normal,” Roberts explains. Even now the restaurant only offers outdoor dining and to-go orders.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And while the original restaurant dream was fork and knives with wood-fired pies, the reality-driven plan is affordable slices and pies “with superior ingredients.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I put all of our focus on our dough and our cheese blend,” Roberts says, detailing the organic tomatoes and never-bromated U.S. milled flour he uses daily. He also makes a signature homemade ranch dressing that when purchased online includes a YouTube tutorial link from Roberts himself. But lest you think everything on the menu has artisanal ambitions, Roberts says, “I also put Spam on pizza.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Spam is a trademark of the restaurant’s take on Hawaiian pizza, along with jalapeño and pineapple. The Heatwave Pizza combines hot coppa with jalapeño and Mike’s Hot Honey. And regulars know to come early (and hungry) enough to snag a square pepperoni slice, topped to the Detroit-style corners with pepperoni cups, before they sell out — and make no mistake, Pizza Supreme Being’s whole lineup of pizza always winds up selling out. Lining up to the kiosk window to place an order feels less like an exclusive foodie experience and more akin to buying tickets to a show. Slices are served to your seats outside, where government professionals, cross-city bike crews, pre-gaming hardcore show kids, skaters, families and beyond intersect in allegiance to a supreme being of a sourdough crust perfected to the last bite.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13928222\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1080px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13928222\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/332794941_174738161951148_860703287127675705_n.jpg\" alt=\"Overhead view of a pizza topped with hot coppa and jalapeños. \" width=\"1080\" height=\"1080\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/332794941_174738161951148_860703287127675705_n.jpg 1080w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/332794941_174738161951148_860703287127675705_n-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/332794941_174738161951148_860703287127675705_n-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/332794941_174738161951148_860703287127675705_n-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/332794941_174738161951148_860703287127675705_n-768x768.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1080px) 100vw, 1080px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Heatwave pizza combines hot coppa, jalapeños and Mike’s Hot Honey. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Pizza Supreme Being/Instagram)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>What’s also impressive for such a small restaurant is that it hosts a whole network of local, multicultural food industry upstarts. Eddie Torres, who works full-time at Pizza Supreme Being, recently debuted a pizza featuring achiote marinated pork sausage and mojo verde as part of his own pop-up, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/lacocina_de_carmen/\">La Cocina de Carmen\u003c/a> — his “vision of a California cuisine restaurant with Puerto Rican influence.” The restaurant has also hosted \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/congeecult/\">Congee Cult\u003c/a>, a two-person pop-up serving new takes on Chinese rice porridge.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>Part of this community-driven mindset is a direct product of the music scenes Roberts grew up with. Now, with limited free time as a business owner and new parent, Roberts stays connected to those scenes by offering a good meal to visiting hardcore acts like Candy, Extinguish, Big Boy and the Los Angeles powerviolence band Zulu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I try my best to look at tour dates of bands that I really enjoy, or even ones I haven’t listened to that much, and just say ‘Pull up and I’ll feed you,’” Robert explains. “I know that they’re hungry, on the road, eating fast food.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sometimes Roberts lets these touring bands, like San Jose’s Sunami, set up a little merch pop-up — and, like any proper skate shop or hardcore band, the restaurant offers its own line of cheeky merch as well. One of my personal favorites is a T-shirt featuring a hand-drawn character inspired by Youth of Today lead singer Ray Cappo leaping mid-air, mid-song. The restaurant sells \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/CpBhzYzvJpm/?hl=en\">bumper stickers\u003c/a> that advocate for pepperoni cups and playfully trolls corporate ranch dressing manufacturers with the simple question, “Where the Heck is Hidden Valley?”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13928223\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1080px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13928223\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/332557431_949086672784735_8808409291648642488_n.jpg\" alt='Bumper stickers arranged on a white pizza box: \"Gas...Brake...Dip...Your Pizza in Ranch,\" \"I Went to Pizza Supreme Being and All I Got Was This Lousy Bumper Sticker,\" \"Welcome to Sacramento, We Dip Our Pizza in Ranch,\" \"I Brake for Pepperoni Cups,\" and \"Where the Heck Is Hidden Valley?\"' width=\"1080\" height=\"1080\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/332557431_949086672784735_8808409291648642488_n.jpg 1080w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/332557431_949086672784735_8808409291648642488_n-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/332557431_949086672784735_8808409291648642488_n-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/332557431_949086672784735_8808409291648642488_n-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/332557431_949086672784735_8808409291648642488_n-768x768.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1080px) 100vw, 1080px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The pizza brand’s merch lineup includes a selection of cheeky pepperoni- and ranch dressing-themed bumper stickers. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Pizza Supreme Being/Instagram)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>While a small, punk-inspired pizza shop might seem like an unlikely avatar for Sacramento’s acclaimed food scene, a sense of local pride is palpable in everything that Pizza Supreme Being produces. The restaurant’s Instagram Stories often feature selfies of Roberts posing in front of the beam lit above the Golden 1 Center after every Kings win, and the chef is effusive about how much cool stuff is happening in the capital city.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If the best parts of skateboarding, hardcore and similar subcultures are the communities they engender, why wouldn’t that also be true for a pizza restaurant? For me, Pizza Supreme Being has been a welcome portal into a Sacramento scene I’m still slowly getting to know — one whose hard-working ethos speaks for itself.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I get really tired of being compared to other cities — the rising this or the next that,” Roberts says. “Just let us be us and see what we got.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12127869\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.pizzasupremebeing.com/\">\u003ci>Pizza Supreme Being\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is located at 1425 14th St., Ste. C, in Sacramento. Open Wed.–Sun., noon to 8:30 p.m. (or until sold out). Cashless — order \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://curbyourpickup.square.site/\">\u003ci>online\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> or call 916-917-5559. Follow them on \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/pizzasupremebeing/\">\u003ci>Instagram\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. \u003c/i>\u003ci>\u003cbr>\n\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"slug": "kokak-chocolates-filipino-lgbtq-castro-san-francisco",
"title": "SF's Queer, Filipina-Owned Chocolate Shop Celebrates Love Year-Round",
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"headTitle": "SF’s Queer, Filipina-Owned Chocolate Shop Celebrates Love Year-Round | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ci>¡Hella Hungry! is a column about Bay Area foodmakers, exploring the region’s culinary cultures through the mouth of a first-generation local.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I have a bite-sized confession to make: I originally planned to write about San Francisco’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/kokakchocolates/\">Kokak Chocolates\u003c/a> last month for Valentine’s Day.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the time, the LGBTQ woman-owned chocolate business was preparing to debut a love-themed set of flavors, including “Heat of the Moment,” which is a combo of dark and white chocolates with Mexican Comapeño chiles sourced from the woman-owned \u003ca href=\"https://www.boonvillebarn.com/\">Boonville Barn Collective\u003c/a>. But I wasn’t able to make it happen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To be fair, my first child was born just days ahead of my scheduled interview with Carol Gancia, the self-taught Filipina chocolatier who founded Kokak — so I spent the following weeks, including Valentine’s Day, with a small, heartwarming human in my arms instead.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Kokak, it turns out, is just as good in March as it is in February — or any time of year, for that matter. In fact, having to wait that extra month infused me with even more desire to taste the premium Bay Area chocolates, which are filled with joy and spices in all their flavorful forms.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With creative options that defy the conventional notions of chocolate — Kokak’s seasonal flavors include pizza and ramen, for example — Gancia doesn’t play it safe. Instead, she enjoys challenging herself to push past her comfort zone, a trait she gained when she first immigrated to California from her native Philippine islands.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rooted in her vibrant Asian Pacific heritage and driven by a passion to connect with ancestral flavors through rare, organic ingredients like \u003ca href=\"https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20190916-the-worlds-most-exquisite-chocolate\">Ecuadorian Nacional cacao\u003c/a>, Kokak is more than just chocolates. It’s a way, Gancia says, to tell others, “I love you just the way you are.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>This interview has been edited for length and clarity.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp style=\"text-align: center\">********\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>ALAN CHAZARO: When did your appreciation for chocolates first begin?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>CAROL GANCIA: \u003c/b>I grew up on the Philippine islands. I was lucky, being from a middle-class family, to have an uncle who was a sought-after engineer. He got contracts that had him travel abroad, around Western Europe, where they have quality chocolates. He would bring them back home — dark chocolate, mint, even liqueurs. I had a chance to taste those, not realizing my love of chocolate came from him. I [later] realized chocolate is a memory, a happy memory.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13925997\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13925997\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/kokak_mango-800x1200.jpg\" alt=\"dried mangoes dipped in chocolates\" width=\"800\" height=\"1200\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/kokak_mango-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/kokak_mango-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/kokak_mango-160x240.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/kokak_mango-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/kokak_mango-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/kokak_mango-1365x2048.jpg 1365w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/kokak_mango-scaled.jpg 1707w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tropical flavors like these chocolate-dipped dried mangoes are inspired by Carol Gancia’s upbringing on the Philippine islands. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>How did that translate into you becoming a professional chocolatier?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I make chocolates in the form of truffles and bars. I do it every day with two other chocolatiers. The kind of shop we have is tropically inspired and based on my background. We’re a couple blocks from Castro Street on 18th and Sanchez.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I was growing up, chocolate was in the background; I always had chocolate in my pockets. But I started out as a journalist broadcasting in the Philippines. I got involved in video production and continued that work in the U.S. [after moving here in 2004]. I even worked as a producer for “\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/checkplease\">Check, Please! Bay Area\u003c/a>” on KQED. I produced for Jacques Pépin, and that helped me improve my palette. You read the recipe, and plan it out with the executive producer. That’s how I learned informally about the culinary world.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was still producing, and after 20 years — about five years ago — I was eager to do something different that I would be scared about. I was too complacent [as a video producer]. I wanted to feel what it was like to start something and be clueless. I decided to learn about chocolates and sell on the side until it became a full business [in 2020]. Sometimes I still don’t know what I’m doing. I’m still learning, and I still operate a video production business.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13925999\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13925999\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/kokak_truffles-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"A tray of colorfully decorated chocolates at Kokak in San Francisco\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/kokak_truffles-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/kokak_truffles-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/kokak_truffles-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/kokak_truffles-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/kokak_truffles-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/kokak_truffles.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A preview of the seasonal Easter chocolates that will be available at Kokak this month. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What does the word “kokak” represent for you?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Kokak literally means “ribbit” in English. I was conceptualizing the name of my shop and noticing the [other] chocolate brands and names. It was usually last names or serious words. I wanted to make a splash, [since] I had no background in chocolate. I chose Kokak and added an exclamation point because I wanted to represent myself and who I am. I studied in the Philippines, and my campus had lily pads, beautiful flowers, ponds and frogs. Kokak reminds me of my home — the wonderful tropical life. It’s a conversation starter as well. Customers ask me what it means, and I can tell the story of the Philippine islands. My shop is more than selling chocolates. It’s an experience, a borrowed memory.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Your Filipina heritage is an important aspect of your identity. Tell us about how that emerges in your variety of chocolate flavors.\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I think of kalamansi — it’s a lime in the Philippines and is abundant there. My mom would make me hot kalamansi juice when I was sick. But in the summer, it was served cold, like lemonade. We included that as a popular flavor at Kokak.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[pullquote size=\"large\" align=\"right\" citation=\"Carol Gancia\"]“My shop is more than selling chocolates. It’s an experience, a borrowed memory.”[/pullquote]We opened our shop during the pandemic, and we had a lot of time to think. We had about 50 recipes I created from the start, and we rotate that throughout the year. My favorite is our guava truffle — all made from scratch. Coconut pie is another. There’s a place in the southern part of metro Manila where they make buko pies — coconut pies. They’re not sweet, they’re just full of coconut meat. That’s a memory and an inspiration for our truffles.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Do you serve anything besides chocolate?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We also have our cacao porridge. Growing up in the Philippines, every Christmas season we make champurrado — it’s a [beverage] mix of chocolate and rice. A long time ago, in the 1500s, there was trade happening between the Philippines and Mexico. Mexico brought chocolates to us. Back then, most [Filipinos] were rice farmers. It’s a testament to the friendship between Mexicans and Filipinos — champurrado. That’s available year round, and we offer dine-in at our shop as well.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What’s your connection to the Bay Area, and how is that reflected in your business?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As far as flavors, we have Earl Grey, which is a very San Francisco afternoon tea I enjoy with the ladies. I don’t always get to do that much these days (laughs). I looked for Earl Grey and infused it with berry and chocolate for the filling. The Earl Grey tea we use is organic, fair trade and local. We also have coffee truffles, and the coffee is local.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13925998\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13925998\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/kokak_shirt-800x1200.jpg\" alt='a t-shirt at Kokak reads: \"love is love is love is chocolate is love...\"' width=\"800\" height=\"1200\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/kokak_shirt-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/kokak_shirt-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/kokak_shirt-160x240.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/kokak_shirt-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/kokak_shirt-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/kokak_shirt-1365x2048.jpg 1365w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/kokak_shirt-scaled.jpg 1707w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">“Love Is Chocolate Is Love” t-shirt at Kokak. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As much as we can, we keep our ingredients local. I can get tea from the grocery, but we find really premium teas from here. Same with our dairy. You don’t want your truffles to taste faint. Our truffles stay fresh, and the flavors are punchy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We also identify as an LGBTQ shop and ship all over the country with our Pride-inspired chocolates. One of my favorite things is reading note cards that we write to ship for our customers. One customer wrote, “Dear [Anonymous], I love you just the way you are. From Mom.” It made me teary-eyed. And made me realize I was in the right place.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Who are some of your favorite chocolatiers right now in Northern California?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I like chocolates not just for flavor but also meaning. I like to support female chocolatiers, too. The reality is that if you sum up all the chocolate makers, it’s still very male dominated. There are two [local chocolatiers] who are my competition but also my friends: \u003ca href=\"https://www.socolachocolates.com/\">Socola\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://www.jadechocolates.com/\">Jade Chocolates\u003c/a>. We meet up every once in a while. We’ve done events and have camaraderie. I love this industry because of that. In the video production business it’s competitive. But in chocolate, we help each other. We’re excited to see each other at the pop-up events. It’s supportive in a weird way. That’s motivating.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>For someone like me, who doesn’t usually go out of their way for chocolates, what makes Kokak worthwhile?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postID='arts_13923127,arts_13919707,arts_13914042']I’m a small business owner. I never dreamed about earning billions of dollars and growing an empire. I enjoy the human-to-human touch. I want to connect with people. We’re already making less profit than a factory setting.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I made a tough decision that cut into our profitability [with] our biggest ingredient, which is a rare cacao. It’s the first domestically grown cacao tree [in the world] from several thousand years back. I let that melt slowly in my mouth and imagine what our ancestors were tasting years and years ago. This rare [Nacional] cacao in Ecuador is grown for flavor, not yield. A lot of chocolate growers sell ingredients for much cheaper, but they are from chocolate strains that were grown for volume production. Flavor is less of a priority.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nacional wins over that. The genetics of the chocolate that we use is the same as our ancestors tasted.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-12904247 aligncenter\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Kokak Chocolates (3901 18th St., San Francisco) is open Tues. 11:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. and Wed. through Sun. 11:30 a.m. to 6 p.m.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"title": "SF's Queer, Filipina-Owned Chocolate Shop Celebrates Love Year-Round in the Castro | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ci>¡Hella Hungry! is a column about Bay Area foodmakers, exploring the region’s culinary cultures through the mouth of a first-generation local.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I have a bite-sized confession to make: I originally planned to write about San Francisco’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/kokakchocolates/\">Kokak Chocolates\u003c/a> last month for Valentine’s Day.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the time, the LGBTQ woman-owned chocolate business was preparing to debut a love-themed set of flavors, including “Heat of the Moment,” which is a combo of dark and white chocolates with Mexican Comapeño chiles sourced from the woman-owned \u003ca href=\"https://www.boonvillebarn.com/\">Boonville Barn Collective\u003c/a>. But I wasn’t able to make it happen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To be fair, my first child was born just days ahead of my scheduled interview with Carol Gancia, the self-taught Filipina chocolatier who founded Kokak — so I spent the following weeks, including Valentine’s Day, with a small, heartwarming human in my arms instead.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Kokak, it turns out, is just as good in March as it is in February — or any time of year, for that matter. In fact, having to wait that extra month infused me with even more desire to taste the premium Bay Area chocolates, which are filled with joy and spices in all their flavorful forms.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With creative options that defy the conventional notions of chocolate — Kokak’s seasonal flavors include pizza and ramen, for example — Gancia doesn’t play it safe. Instead, she enjoys challenging herself to push past her comfort zone, a trait she gained when she first immigrated to California from her native Philippine islands.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rooted in her vibrant Asian Pacific heritage and driven by a passion to connect with ancestral flavors through rare, organic ingredients like \u003ca href=\"https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20190916-the-worlds-most-exquisite-chocolate\">Ecuadorian Nacional cacao\u003c/a>, Kokak is more than just chocolates. It’s a way, Gancia says, to tell others, “I love you just the way you are.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>This interview has been edited for length and clarity.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp style=\"text-align: center\">********\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>ALAN CHAZARO: When did your appreciation for chocolates first begin?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>CAROL GANCIA: \u003c/b>I grew up on the Philippine islands. I was lucky, being from a middle-class family, to have an uncle who was a sought-after engineer. He got contracts that had him travel abroad, around Western Europe, where they have quality chocolates. He would bring them back home — dark chocolate, mint, even liqueurs. I had a chance to taste those, not realizing my love of chocolate came from him. I [later] realized chocolate is a memory, a happy memory.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13925997\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13925997\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/kokak_mango-800x1200.jpg\" alt=\"dried mangoes dipped in chocolates\" width=\"800\" height=\"1200\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/kokak_mango-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/kokak_mango-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/kokak_mango-160x240.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/kokak_mango-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/kokak_mango-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/kokak_mango-1365x2048.jpg 1365w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/kokak_mango-scaled.jpg 1707w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tropical flavors like these chocolate-dipped dried mangoes are inspired by Carol Gancia’s upbringing on the Philippine islands. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>How did that translate into you becoming a professional chocolatier?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I make chocolates in the form of truffles and bars. I do it every day with two other chocolatiers. The kind of shop we have is tropically inspired and based on my background. We’re a couple blocks from Castro Street on 18th and Sanchez.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I was growing up, chocolate was in the background; I always had chocolate in my pockets. But I started out as a journalist broadcasting in the Philippines. I got involved in video production and continued that work in the U.S. [after moving here in 2004]. I even worked as a producer for “\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/checkplease\">Check, Please! Bay Area\u003c/a>” on KQED. I produced for Jacques Pépin, and that helped me improve my palette. You read the recipe, and plan it out with the executive producer. That’s how I learned informally about the culinary world.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was still producing, and after 20 years — about five years ago — I was eager to do something different that I would be scared about. I was too complacent [as a video producer]. I wanted to feel what it was like to start something and be clueless. I decided to learn about chocolates and sell on the side until it became a full business [in 2020]. Sometimes I still don’t know what I’m doing. I’m still learning, and I still operate a video production business.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13925999\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13925999\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/kokak_truffles-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"A tray of colorfully decorated chocolates at Kokak in San Francisco\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/kokak_truffles-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/kokak_truffles-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/kokak_truffles-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/kokak_truffles-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/kokak_truffles-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/kokak_truffles.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A preview of the seasonal Easter chocolates that will be available at Kokak this month. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What does the word “kokak” represent for you?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Kokak literally means “ribbit” in English. I was conceptualizing the name of my shop and noticing the [other] chocolate brands and names. It was usually last names or serious words. I wanted to make a splash, [since] I had no background in chocolate. I chose Kokak and added an exclamation point because I wanted to represent myself and who I am. I studied in the Philippines, and my campus had lily pads, beautiful flowers, ponds and frogs. Kokak reminds me of my home — the wonderful tropical life. It’s a conversation starter as well. Customers ask me what it means, and I can tell the story of the Philippine islands. My shop is more than selling chocolates. It’s an experience, a borrowed memory.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Your Filipina heritage is an important aspect of your identity. Tell us about how that emerges in your variety of chocolate flavors.\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I think of kalamansi — it’s a lime in the Philippines and is abundant there. My mom would make me hot kalamansi juice when I was sick. But in the summer, it was served cold, like lemonade. We included that as a popular flavor at Kokak.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>We opened our shop during the pandemic, and we had a lot of time to think. We had about 50 recipes I created from the start, and we rotate that throughout the year. My favorite is our guava truffle — all made from scratch. Coconut pie is another. There’s a place in the southern part of metro Manila where they make buko pies — coconut pies. They’re not sweet, they’re just full of coconut meat. That’s a memory and an inspiration for our truffles.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Do you serve anything besides chocolate?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We also have our cacao porridge. Growing up in the Philippines, every Christmas season we make champurrado — it’s a [beverage] mix of chocolate and rice. A long time ago, in the 1500s, there was trade happening between the Philippines and Mexico. Mexico brought chocolates to us. Back then, most [Filipinos] were rice farmers. It’s a testament to the friendship between Mexicans and Filipinos — champurrado. That’s available year round, and we offer dine-in at our shop as well.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What’s your connection to the Bay Area, and how is that reflected in your business?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As far as flavors, we have Earl Grey, which is a very San Francisco afternoon tea I enjoy with the ladies. I don’t always get to do that much these days (laughs). I looked for Earl Grey and infused it with berry and chocolate for the filling. The Earl Grey tea we use is organic, fair trade and local. We also have coffee truffles, and the coffee is local.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13925998\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13925998\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/kokak_shirt-800x1200.jpg\" alt='a t-shirt at Kokak reads: \"love is love is love is chocolate is love...\"' width=\"800\" height=\"1200\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/kokak_shirt-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/kokak_shirt-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/kokak_shirt-160x240.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/kokak_shirt-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/kokak_shirt-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/kokak_shirt-1365x2048.jpg 1365w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/kokak_shirt-scaled.jpg 1707w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">“Love Is Chocolate Is Love” t-shirt at Kokak. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As much as we can, we keep our ingredients local. I can get tea from the grocery, but we find really premium teas from here. Same with our dairy. You don’t want your truffles to taste faint. Our truffles stay fresh, and the flavors are punchy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We also identify as an LGBTQ shop and ship all over the country with our Pride-inspired chocolates. One of my favorite things is reading note cards that we write to ship for our customers. One customer wrote, “Dear [Anonymous], I love you just the way you are. From Mom.” It made me teary-eyed. And made me realize I was in the right place.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Who are some of your favorite chocolatiers right now in Northern California?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I like chocolates not just for flavor but also meaning. I like to support female chocolatiers, too. The reality is that if you sum up all the chocolate makers, it’s still very male dominated. There are two [local chocolatiers] who are my competition but also my friends: \u003ca href=\"https://www.socolachocolates.com/\">Socola\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://www.jadechocolates.com/\">Jade Chocolates\u003c/a>. We meet up every once in a while. We’ve done events and have camaraderie. I love this industry because of that. In the video production business it’s competitive. But in chocolate, we help each other. We’re excited to see each other at the pop-up events. It’s supportive in a weird way. That’s motivating.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>For someone like me, who doesn’t usually go out of their way for chocolates, what makes Kokak worthwhile?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>I’m a small business owner. I never dreamed about earning billions of dollars and growing an empire. I enjoy the human-to-human touch. I want to connect with people. We’re already making less profit than a factory setting.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I made a tough decision that cut into our profitability [with] our biggest ingredient, which is a rare cacao. It’s the first domestically grown cacao tree [in the world] from several thousand years back. I let that melt slowly in my mouth and imagine what our ancestors were tasting years and years ago. This rare [Nacional] cacao in Ecuador is grown for flavor, not yield. A lot of chocolate growers sell ingredients for much cheaper, but they are from chocolate strains that were grown for volume production. Flavor is less of a priority.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nacional wins over that. The genetics of the chocolate that we use is the same as our ancestors tasted.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-12904247 aligncenter\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Kokak Chocolates (3901 18th St., San Francisco) is open Tues. 11:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. and Wed. through Sun. 11:30 a.m. to 6 p.m.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"slug": "delirama-pastrami-berkeley-opening-hella-hungry",
"title": "Berkeley’s Delirama Is Putting Pastrami on Everything",
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"headTitle": "Berkeley’s Delirama Is Putting Pastrami on Everything | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cb>\u003ci>¡Hella Hungry! is a column about Bay Area foodmakers, exploring the region’s culinary cultures through the mouth of a first-generation local.\u003c/i>\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Although \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/deliramaofficial/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Delirama\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">—a new, independently-owned deli in North Berkeley—won’t officially open its doors until Monday, August 8, the place is already poppin’ with pastrami.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">That’s because it’s owned by Cash Caris and Anahita Cann, the innovative couple who delivered popular Oakland pop-ups \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/pyrospastrami/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Pyro’s Pastrami\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> and \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/psychedelic_pizza_/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Psychedelic Pizza\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. Both ventures earned an underground reputation for their \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yonU4-77Pgg\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">unique, pastrami-loaded offerings\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">—pastrami pizza, pastrami bagels, pastrami cream cheese and even pastrami tacos. The pop-ups birthed a religious following of pastrami worshippers who have since been anticipating Delirama’s debut.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">When I stopped by to chat with Caris at the funky, retro-inspired Solano Avenue restaurant, we kept getting interrupted by hopeful patrons who thought the deli was open. One listened intently as Caris described the initial menu before promising to return for lunch on opening day, saving notes on her phone’s calendar. Another gentleman just kept peering in longingly from the street. Between the two of them, I’d never seen so much eagerness to consume pastrami.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/CgU6I1ZPy5I/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">That’s the kind of gravity Delirama has. In just a few days, they’ll start serving their constellation of quirky, homestyle pastrami goodies like “the OG Sandwich”—beef pastrami (or a vegan version made with celery root) on rye, with Thousand Island dressing, gruyere cheese and coleslaw. The opening menu also includes a Hawaiian- and childhood-inspired “POG Juice” and fresh-baked bagels and bialys (a “cousin” of the bagel with an indentation in the middle that Delirama fills with caramelized onions and pastrami bits).\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">During my visit, Caris told me about the magic that goes into making pastrami—a laborious process that takes an average of 30 days—and his journey into the food industry over 15 years ago. He also hopped into the kitchen to make me one of his favorite dishes, the Reuben.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“[Pastrami] really is like a spiritual experience,” he told me while grilling fresh slices of meat to heavenly perfection. After one bite, I agreed.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13917125\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13917125\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/IMG_1150-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"pastrami being cooked on the grill in Delirama's kitchen, with slices of bread being toasted nearby\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/IMG_1150-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/IMG_1150-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/IMG_1150-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/IMG_1150-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/IMG_1150-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/IMG_1150-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/IMG_1150-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A “spiritual experience” being prepared by chef Cash Caris. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">This interview has been edited for length and clarity.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp style=\"text-align: center\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">********\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>KQED: It seems like you’ve had a long love affair with pastrami. When did that begin?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">(Laughs) We’ve definitely had a long affair. The first pastrami I remember eating as a kid was from those 10-cent packs at Lucky’s. You could get thin cured meats for real cheap. My grandma would always get one pack of pastrami and I would fry it in a pan. Then, when I worked at Togo’s later on, when I was probably like 16, I saw pastrami again. I ate pastrami there every day for free. It was completely different from what I knew. I just got interested and started tinkering at home with it. I never made it in a restaurant, though, because it’s very time-consuming. When I got older, I did a cross country trip with Anahita. I started to think about different types of cuisines I could do for a food pop-up. I thought about doing tacos, American food, fresh Italian pasta, burgers. I can make it all. But the one thing I realized that I had the strongest connection to was pastrami. I could live without any of the others, but I would never want to live without pastrami, rye bread and mustard. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What’s your connection to the Bay Area, and how does your food reflect that?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I was born and raised in the South Bay; I’ve spent the largest portion of my life in San Jose. I love it, but it’s not a place for pastrami right now, unfortunately. That time is nearing though. It’s something I want to do—open more Deliramas.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">As far as pastrami fitting into the food scene, the Bay is so food-centric, but pastrami itself doesn’t exist much here. The fact that it’s not here as much as I want it to be, that’s what gave us our purpose. The Bay needs pastrami. We are putting in the time and love to provide it. Certain communities already know about pastrami, but we want to spread it. Doing this with craft and originality, that’s what it deserves. I’ll never use injection or anything in the meat to speed up the process. It is owed the time and energy that it takes. It’s not easily done. To make 2,000 pounds of it and flip it and constantly check it and watch the temperatures. It’s the hardest thing I’ve ever done, to be honest, but also the most rewarding. We want to integrate our California roots with the deli style of the East Coast.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What’s the most popular item that you’re bringing to your menu?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The OG [sandwich]. That’s the original, in California, in terms of pastrami. We use rye bread, Thousand Island dressing, coleslaw and gruyere cheese on pastrami. We also add “Dad’s mustard”—our house mustard. So many people have really gravitated towards it [at Pyro’s]. We’re giving them a peek into the [pastrami making] process and what goes into it. We’re not just ripping open a pack and steaming it and slicing it.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>I heard that you’re also planning to do pastrami tacos. I’m very intrigued.\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Have you had a Crunchy Taco Supreme at Taco Bell? It’s sort of like that, but not exactly. We take parts of the pastrami, those little bits and pieces that don’t go into the sandwich, and we cook it— adding aromatics and spices, lettuce, sour cream and shredded sharp cheddar. Nostalgia catches people’s eyes, so that’s why I mention Taco Bell. It also taps into my roots [as a Mexican American]. My family is from SoCal and the Bay, but my great great grandparents were from Mexico on my mom’s side. The tacos taste incredible, but we won’t add that to the menu until September. People have always been asking me to do tacos, so I think they’ll be popular.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13917127\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13917127\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/IMG_1090-800x1200.jpg\" alt=\"a row of pastrami-topped bialys (a type of bagel) on a rack displayed for customers inside Delirama\" width=\"800\" height=\"1200\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/IMG_1090-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/IMG_1090-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/IMG_1090-160x240.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/IMG_1090-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/IMG_1090-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/IMG_1090-1365x2048.jpg 1365w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/IMG_1090-1920x2880.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/IMG_1090-scaled.jpg 1707w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Freshly baked bialys with pastrami await at Delirama. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>I recently kicked it with the \u003c/b>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13916044/sucka-free-soul-the-vegan-hood-chefs-honor-southern-heritage-with-a-frisco-twist\">\u003cb>Vegan Hood Chefs\u003c/b>\u003c/a>\u003cb>; I’m sure they’d be hyped to see your vegan options. Can you tell us how your vegan pastrami is made?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I used to live in Portland and was vegan. When we thought of Delirama, we knew we needed to have vegan options—at least 50% vegan and vegetarian on the menu—for the sake of the planet, the people. I didn’t want to use any soy or texturized protein. I wanted it all to be 100% plant-based and non-refined. Our vegan pastrami is made from celery root. It’s definitely a versatile root that is overlooked. We take the root, we brine it, smoke it, steam it. It’s chilled, then sliced super, super thin. It’s cooked al dente. We brine it again. It has this really great umami, smoky, salty savoriness. It makes for an amazing reuben sandwich. We throw it on our vegan rye, and our vegan Thousand Island sauce, get that all nice and melty with vegan cheese; it’s delicious. You feel good after it. A seitan is pure gluten and sodium. It’s like bread on bread. But this is fresh. You can never replace the meat fully, but it’s a delicious option and opens up the pastrami experience to people who wouldn’t expect to get something substantial at a deli. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Where are your favorite delis in the Bay?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">A really well-done deli that comes to mind is \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://oksdeli.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Ok’s Deli\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. They do everything from scratch and have extremely talented people working there. That’s up and coming for sure. It’s off Telegraph. They started as a pop-up as well. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">There’s also \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.picnicrotisserie.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Picnic\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. It isn’t a deli though. It’s a woman-owned rotisserie. They make pastrami, too. They serve it on a baguette with coleslaw. Their pastrami is underrated. They have some of the best pastrami in the Bay. I don’t think people know about it, to be honest. They don’t blast it out.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In San Francisco, we like the pastrami sandwich at \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.thelittleredwindow.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Little Red Window\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. For nostalgia, we go to \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://molinaridelisf.com/41085\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Molinari\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> for sandwiches. We’re also going to check out the \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/sandwich_saint/?hl=en\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Saint Sandwich\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> shop next. We haven’t been yet, but we keep hearing great things about it. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>You’ve operated successful pop-ups and now you’re about to open your first brick-and-mortar deli in a few days. How does it feel?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13913592,arts_13916044,arts_13914585']It’s emotional. We’re days away from opening and it almost doesn’t feel real. It’s here though, it’s gonna happen, but it’s still hard to believe. There have been a lot of roadblocks. We tried for a while to get a brick-and-mortar. We [previously] had another spot locked down, and it was ripped from underneath us. It was a local spot. We were paying back our [loans] and everything looked set, but it got sabotaged. If we didn’t find a new spot within 5 months, we wouldn’t have been able to survive. We had used up most of our capital. It was a scary feeling. To be here now is amazing. I’m confident in what we can do, and I have pure intentions with this brand and vision. It all happened for a reason. It was a blessing in disguise because we’re sitting here now.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What early experiences have shaped your connection to the local food industry?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">When I was a teenager, I raised some money to go to the SF Academy of Arts for Motion Picture and Television Production. But I needed a job. I didn’t have much experience, but I found a weird posting about an Israeli caterer in Santa Clara. It was a strange place with a dark, dingy kitchen. The couple running it didn’t speak English. But it smelled good. I was introduced to foods I’ve never seen before. Different spices and aromas. It took me by surprise. They hired me on the spot. I just washed dishes at first. I was young and without experience; I had to earn everything. Two months into it, the owner’s wife came over. She pointed at two bags of onions that needed to be chopped. That’s how I got into the kitchen, and I just stayed there. I eventually moved to an assistant on the hot line and kept moving up. We only communicated with body language the entire time. It was bonding, but not much guidance was given. Then I had to make a choice one day: Do I stay in the kitchen or keep making films? I was barely scraping by, but I just couldn’t stop thinking about the kitchen. So I went all in.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-13917129\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/IMG_1136-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"a tray of sliced pastrami in the kitchen of Delirama, waiting to be used for sandwiches, pizzas, and more\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/IMG_1136-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/IMG_1136-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/IMG_1136-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/IMG_1136-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/IMG_1136-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/IMG_1136-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/IMG_1136-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/deliramaofficial/\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Delirama\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> (1746 Solano Ave, Berkeley) opens on Monday, August 8. Service will begin at 7 am until 3 pm (or until sold out). They will open every Mon., Thu. & Fri. 7 am–3 pm and Sat. & Sun. 9 am–5 pm (or until sold out).\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cb>\u003ci>¡Hella Hungry! is a column about Bay Area foodmakers, exploring the region’s culinary cultures through the mouth of a first-generation local.\u003c/i>\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Although \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/deliramaofficial/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Delirama\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">—a new, independently-owned deli in North Berkeley—won’t officially open its doors until Monday, August 8, the place is already poppin’ with pastrami.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">That’s because it’s owned by Cash Caris and Anahita Cann, the innovative couple who delivered popular Oakland pop-ups \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/pyrospastrami/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Pyro’s Pastrami\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> and \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/psychedelic_pizza_/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Psychedelic Pizza\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. Both ventures earned an underground reputation for their \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yonU4-77Pgg\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">unique, pastrami-loaded offerings\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">—pastrami pizza, pastrami bagels, pastrami cream cheese and even pastrami tacos. The pop-ups birthed a religious following of pastrami worshippers who have since been anticipating Delirama’s debut.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">When I stopped by to chat with Caris at the funky, retro-inspired Solano Avenue restaurant, we kept getting interrupted by hopeful patrons who thought the deli was open. One listened intently as Caris described the initial menu before promising to return for lunch on opening day, saving notes on her phone’s calendar. Another gentleman just kept peering in longingly from the street. Between the two of them, I’d never seen so much eagerness to consume pastrami.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">That’s the kind of gravity Delirama has. In just a few days, they’ll start serving their constellation of quirky, homestyle pastrami goodies like “the OG Sandwich”—beef pastrami (or a vegan version made with celery root) on rye, with Thousand Island dressing, gruyere cheese and coleslaw. The opening menu also includes a Hawaiian- and childhood-inspired “POG Juice” and fresh-baked bagels and bialys (a “cousin” of the bagel with an indentation in the middle that Delirama fills with caramelized onions and pastrami bits).\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">During my visit, Caris told me about the magic that goes into making pastrami—a laborious process that takes an average of 30 days—and his journey into the food industry over 15 years ago. He also hopped into the kitchen to make me one of his favorite dishes, the Reuben.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“[Pastrami] really is like a spiritual experience,” he told me while grilling fresh slices of meat to heavenly perfection. After one bite, I agreed.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13917125\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13917125\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/IMG_1150-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"pastrami being cooked on the grill in Delirama's kitchen, with slices of bread being toasted nearby\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/IMG_1150-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/IMG_1150-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/IMG_1150-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/IMG_1150-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/IMG_1150-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/IMG_1150-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/IMG_1150-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A “spiritual experience” being prepared by chef Cash Caris. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">This interview has been edited for length and clarity.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp style=\"text-align: center\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">********\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>KQED: It seems like you’ve had a long love affair with pastrami. When did that begin?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">(Laughs) We’ve definitely had a long affair. The first pastrami I remember eating as a kid was from those 10-cent packs at Lucky’s. You could get thin cured meats for real cheap. My grandma would always get one pack of pastrami and I would fry it in a pan. Then, when I worked at Togo’s later on, when I was probably like 16, I saw pastrami again. I ate pastrami there every day for free. It was completely different from what I knew. I just got interested and started tinkering at home with it. I never made it in a restaurant, though, because it’s very time-consuming. When I got older, I did a cross country trip with Anahita. I started to think about different types of cuisines I could do for a food pop-up. I thought about doing tacos, American food, fresh Italian pasta, burgers. I can make it all. But the one thing I realized that I had the strongest connection to was pastrami. I could live without any of the others, but I would never want to live without pastrami, rye bread and mustard. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What’s your connection to the Bay Area, and how does your food reflect that?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I was born and raised in the South Bay; I’ve spent the largest portion of my life in San Jose. I love it, but it’s not a place for pastrami right now, unfortunately. That time is nearing though. It’s something I want to do—open more Deliramas.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">As far as pastrami fitting into the food scene, the Bay is so food-centric, but pastrami itself doesn’t exist much here. The fact that it’s not here as much as I want it to be, that’s what gave us our purpose. The Bay needs pastrami. We are putting in the time and love to provide it. Certain communities already know about pastrami, but we want to spread it. Doing this with craft and originality, that’s what it deserves. I’ll never use injection or anything in the meat to speed up the process. It is owed the time and energy that it takes. It’s not easily done. To make 2,000 pounds of it and flip it and constantly check it and watch the temperatures. It’s the hardest thing I’ve ever done, to be honest, but also the most rewarding. We want to integrate our California roots with the deli style of the East Coast.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What’s the most popular item that you’re bringing to your menu?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The OG [sandwich]. That’s the original, in California, in terms of pastrami. We use rye bread, Thousand Island dressing, coleslaw and gruyere cheese on pastrami. We also add “Dad’s mustard”—our house mustard. So many people have really gravitated towards it [at Pyro’s]. We’re giving them a peek into the [pastrami making] process and what goes into it. We’re not just ripping open a pack and steaming it and slicing it.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>I heard that you’re also planning to do pastrami tacos. I’m very intrigued.\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Have you had a Crunchy Taco Supreme at Taco Bell? It’s sort of like that, but not exactly. We take parts of the pastrami, those little bits and pieces that don’t go into the sandwich, and we cook it— adding aromatics and spices, lettuce, sour cream and shredded sharp cheddar. Nostalgia catches people’s eyes, so that’s why I mention Taco Bell. It also taps into my roots [as a Mexican American]. My family is from SoCal and the Bay, but my great great grandparents were from Mexico on my mom’s side. The tacos taste incredible, but we won’t add that to the menu until September. People have always been asking me to do tacos, so I think they’ll be popular.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13917127\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13917127\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/IMG_1090-800x1200.jpg\" alt=\"a row of pastrami-topped bialys (a type of bagel) on a rack displayed for customers inside Delirama\" width=\"800\" height=\"1200\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/IMG_1090-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/IMG_1090-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/IMG_1090-160x240.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/IMG_1090-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/IMG_1090-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/IMG_1090-1365x2048.jpg 1365w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/IMG_1090-1920x2880.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/IMG_1090-scaled.jpg 1707w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Freshly baked bialys with pastrami await at Delirama. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>I recently kicked it with the \u003c/b>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13916044/sucka-free-soul-the-vegan-hood-chefs-honor-southern-heritage-with-a-frisco-twist\">\u003cb>Vegan Hood Chefs\u003c/b>\u003c/a>\u003cb>; I’m sure they’d be hyped to see your vegan options. Can you tell us how your vegan pastrami is made?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I used to live in Portland and was vegan. When we thought of Delirama, we knew we needed to have vegan options—at least 50% vegan and vegetarian on the menu—for the sake of the planet, the people. I didn’t want to use any soy or texturized protein. I wanted it all to be 100% plant-based and non-refined. Our vegan pastrami is made from celery root. It’s definitely a versatile root that is overlooked. We take the root, we brine it, smoke it, steam it. It’s chilled, then sliced super, super thin. It’s cooked al dente. We brine it again. It has this really great umami, smoky, salty savoriness. It makes for an amazing reuben sandwich. We throw it on our vegan rye, and our vegan Thousand Island sauce, get that all nice and melty with vegan cheese; it’s delicious. You feel good after it. A seitan is pure gluten and sodium. It’s like bread on bread. But this is fresh. You can never replace the meat fully, but it’s a delicious option and opens up the pastrami experience to people who wouldn’t expect to get something substantial at a deli. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Where are your favorite delis in the Bay?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">A really well-done deli that comes to mind is \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://oksdeli.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Ok’s Deli\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. They do everything from scratch and have extremely talented people working there. That’s up and coming for sure. It’s off Telegraph. They started as a pop-up as well. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">There’s also \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.picnicrotisserie.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Picnic\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. It isn’t a deli though. It’s a woman-owned rotisserie. They make pastrami, too. They serve it on a baguette with coleslaw. Their pastrami is underrated. They have some of the best pastrami in the Bay. I don’t think people know about it, to be honest. They don’t blast it out.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In San Francisco, we like the pastrami sandwich at \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.thelittleredwindow.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Little Red Window\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. For nostalgia, we go to \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://molinaridelisf.com/41085\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Molinari\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> for sandwiches. We’re also going to check out the \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/sandwich_saint/?hl=en\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Saint Sandwich\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> shop next. We haven’t been yet, but we keep hearing great things about it. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>You’ve operated successful pop-ups and now you’re about to open your first brick-and-mortar deli in a few days. How does it feel?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>It’s emotional. We’re days away from opening and it almost doesn’t feel real. It’s here though, it’s gonna happen, but it’s still hard to believe. There have been a lot of roadblocks. We tried for a while to get a brick-and-mortar. We [previously] had another spot locked down, and it was ripped from underneath us. It was a local spot. We were paying back our [loans] and everything looked set, but it got sabotaged. If we didn’t find a new spot within 5 months, we wouldn’t have been able to survive. We had used up most of our capital. It was a scary feeling. To be here now is amazing. I’m confident in what we can do, and I have pure intentions with this brand and vision. It all happened for a reason. It was a blessing in disguise because we’re sitting here now.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What early experiences have shaped your connection to the local food industry?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">When I was a teenager, I raised some money to go to the SF Academy of Arts for Motion Picture and Television Production. But I needed a job. I didn’t have much experience, but I found a weird posting about an Israeli caterer in Santa Clara. It was a strange place with a dark, dingy kitchen. The couple running it didn’t speak English. But it smelled good. I was introduced to foods I’ve never seen before. Different spices and aromas. It took me by surprise. They hired me on the spot. I just washed dishes at first. I was young and without experience; I had to earn everything. Two months into it, the owner’s wife came over. She pointed at two bags of onions that needed to be chopped. That’s how I got into the kitchen, and I just stayed there. I eventually moved to an assistant on the hot line and kept moving up. We only communicated with body language the entire time. It was bonding, but not much guidance was given. Then I had to make a choice one day: Do I stay in the kitchen or keep making films? I was barely scraping by, but I just couldn’t stop thinking about the kitchen. So I went all in.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-13917129\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/IMG_1136-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"a tray of sliced pastrami in the kitchen of Delirama, waiting to be used for sandwiches, pizzas, and more\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/IMG_1136-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/IMG_1136-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/IMG_1136-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/IMG_1136-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/IMG_1136-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/IMG_1136-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/IMG_1136-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/deliramaofficial/\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Delirama\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> (1746 Solano Ave, Berkeley) opens on Monday, August 8. Service will begin at 7 am until 3 pm (or until sold out). They will open every Mon., Thu. & Fri. 7 am–3 pm and Sat. & Sun. 9 am–5 pm (or until sold out).\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "Oakland’s New Soul Food Restaurant Wants to Make Biscuit-Crust Pizza a Thing",
"headTitle": "Oakland’s New Soul Food Restaurant Wants to Make Biscuit-Crust Pizza a Thing | KQED",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Karter Louis couldn’t afford to go out for pizza when was growing up in Louisville, Kentucky, so he and his brother would improvise: They took biscuit dough, straight out of the tube, and loaded it up with whatever toppings they had on hand. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Now, Louis is turning that simple idea into a bona fide restaurant. Located at the former Noodle Theory Provisions space in North Oakland, at 5849 San Pablo Ave., \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://soulslicepizza.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Soul Slice\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> will be a soul food restaurant first and foremost—a place for customers to enjoy collard greens and black-eyed peas, fried oysters and lemon pepper catfish. But Soul Slice’s main point of distinction is that it serves all those dishes and more on top of its proprietary biscuit crust. As a pizza, in other words. To Louis’s knowledge, it’s the first dedicated biscuit pizza restaurant anywhere in the country. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The restaurant will open on Saturday, June 19, or Juneteenth, the holiday celebrating the emancipation of enslaved people in the United States— a “dream day” to open, Louis says, because he sees the restaurant as a celebration of Black culture.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“The goal,” he says, “is to glorify and bring more focus on the origins of African American cuisine.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13895209,bayareabites_136360' label='More Soul Food']Louis, a self-described serial restaurateur, was an operating partner at San Francisco’s Samovar Tea Lounge in the mid to late aughts, after which he ran a chain of \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.cuisinenoirmag.com/hillbilly-tea-louisville-kentucky/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Appalachia-themed restaurants called Hillbilly Tea\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> based in Louisville. His dream, however, was to open a soul food restaurant, especially as he learned more about this history of the cuisine over the years—about how \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://madfeed.co/2015/a-peoples-history-of-carolina-rice/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Carolina Gold rice was brought over to the U.S. in the pockets of enslaved West Africans\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, and \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.washingtonpost.com/news/voraciously/wp/2019/07/22/today-even-fancy-restaurants-serve-biscuits-and-gravy-but-the-dish-comes-from-modest-beginnings/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">the way that biscuits themselves evolved\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> from hard, cracker-like objects eaten by British sailors to a staple of the American South. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For years, Louis had assumed that biscuit-crust pizza was just an odd thing that he had done as a child, but when he started talking to people about it as an adult, he realized that many Southern folks, in particular, had done the same thing growing up. Google “biscuit pizza,” and you’ll find several dozen recipes, though very few that incorporate any soul food ingredients. For Louis, however, the combination struck him as being “as American as you can get.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">At the end of the day, Louis says, Soul Slice is a pizza restaurant. The chef’s biscuit creations \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">look\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> like pizza; you cut it into slices and eat it like a pizza. The main difference is that the pizzas don’t draw on Italian or Italian American flavors. “We don’t have mozzarella in our profile whatsoever,” Louis says. “I don’t even think we have oregano.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Instead, the \u003ca href=\"https://soulslicepizza.com/menu\">pizzas are mostly made up of the kinds of things you’ll find in the American South\u003c/a>. One pizza features okra, smashed potatoes, crispy black-eyed peas, mustard greens, collards and tomatoes. You can get hot links or cornmeal-crusted fried oysters on your pizza. You can get Alpine cheese, cheddar or a vegan cheese. And while there is a house tomato sauce, customers might instead choose the hot sauce or the “mac cheese” sauce, which Louis says captures the “gooey, cheesy essence” of his mac and cheese recipe. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13898946\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2016px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13898946\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/SoulSlice_okra.jpg\" alt=\"Close-up of a pizza topped with okra and tomatoes.\" width=\"2016\" height=\"1512\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/SoulSlice_okra.jpg 2016w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/SoulSlice_okra-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/SoulSlice_okra-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/SoulSlice_okra-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/SoulSlice_okra-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/SoulSlice_okra-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/SoulSlice_okra-1920x1440.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2016px) 100vw, 2016px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Okra and Tomato pizza. \u003ccite>(Soul Slice)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Louis says when he moved back to the Bay Area in 2017 after living abroad in China and Taiwan for several years, he wasn’t necessarily looking to open another restaurant. But then the pandemic hit, and Louis says he saw the ways the restaurant industry was ravaged—the way so many cooks and servers lost their jobs, or felt compelled to keep showing up to work at risk of their own health and safety: “I just asked myself, what can I do?”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The same week he came up with the idea for Soul Slice, protests broke out all over the country in response to George Floyd’s murder at the hands of a white police officer, and Louis took that as a sign that focusing his efforts on celebrating Black food culture was the right thing to do.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“People don’t take into consideration the contributions that Black and brown people have made to this country,” he says. “This is an important cuisine to engage in.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13898944\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 373px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13898944\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/SoulSlice_Karter.jpg\" alt=\"Headshot of Karter Louis smiling in glasses and a white collared shirt.\" width=\"373\" height=\"483\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/SoulSlice_Karter.jpg 747w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/SoulSlice_Karter-160x207.jpg 160w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 373px) 100vw, 373px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Karter Louis is a self-described serial entrepreneur. \u003ccite>(Soul Slice)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">With all of the cracks in the restaurant industry’s existing business model that were exposed by the pandemic, Louis says he realized that he wanted to create a restaurant that would be more equitable and humane—no more nickel-and-diming employees for an hour here or there; no more elitist, fine-dining hierarchies where a server might make $100,000 a year while the dishwasher scrapes by on $30,000. “I’ve been a restaurant consultant, and I’ve trained people on how to cut costs—how to keep people in poverty, basically,” he says.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">At Soul Slice, Louis says, every worker—a staff of seven to start out—will be a \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://soulslicepizza.com/opportunities\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">full-time salaried employee\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> with health benefits, paid vacation and a 401(k). Everyone will work in both the front and back of the house, and they’ll all be paid according to their training level. It’ll be a five-step scale, with the goal of getting everyone to at least the fourth level. As Louis puts it, “Everyone gets the same pay at the same level. Everyone shares the tips; everyone works a full day; everyone takes two days off. It’s like a real company. That was the dream.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Once the restaurant opens, Louis says he’ll begin the process of applying to \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/133593/why-some-wineries-are-becoming-certified-b-corp-and-what-that-means\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">have it certified\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> as a \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://bcorporation.net/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">B Corp\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">—a business legally required to have a positive impact on both its workers and on the world at large. Eventually, he wants to open 20 outposts of Soul Slice all around the country in the next three to five years. But Oakland seemed like the perfect place to start.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“I want to hang my hat on Oakland,” Louis says. “Oakland is the beacon to me in terms of being able to prove the model and having a community of people who understand what we’re trying to do.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Soul Slice will open for both takeout and indoor dining on June 19 at 5849 San Pablo Ave. in Oakland. A back patio with outdoor seating will open later this summer. See the opening menu below:\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-13898978\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/Soul-Slice-Menu-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"The first page of the Soul Slice menu.\" width=\"1978\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/Soul-Slice-Menu-scaled.jpg 1978w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/Soul-Slice-Menu-800x1035.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/Soul-Slice-Menu-1020x1320.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/Soul-Slice-Menu-160x207.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/Soul-Slice-Menu-768x994.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/Soul-Slice-Menu-1187x1536.jpg 1187w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/Soul-Slice-Menu-1583x2048.jpg 1583w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/Soul-Slice-Menu-1920x2485.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1978px) 100vw, 1978px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-13898979\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/Soul-Slice-Menu-2-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"The second page of the Soul Slice menu.\" width=\"2130\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/Soul-Slice-Menu-2-scaled.jpg 2130w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/Soul-Slice-Menu-2-800x962.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/Soul-Slice-Menu-2-1020x1226.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/Soul-Slice-Menu-2-160x192.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/Soul-Slice-Menu-2-768x923.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/Soul-Slice-Menu-2-1278x1536.jpg 1278w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/Soul-Slice-Menu-2-1704x2048.jpg 1704w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/Soul-Slice-Menu-2-1920x2308.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2130px) 100vw, 2130px\">\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "At Soul Slice, pizza topping options will include hot links, fried chicken and collard greens.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Karter Louis couldn’t afford to go out for pizza when was growing up in Louisville, Kentucky, so he and his brother would improvise: They took biscuit dough, straight out of the tube, and loaded it up with whatever toppings they had on hand. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Now, Louis is turning that simple idea into a bona fide restaurant. Located at the former Noodle Theory Provisions space in North Oakland, at 5849 San Pablo Ave., \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://soulslicepizza.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Soul Slice\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> will be a soul food restaurant first and foremost—a place for customers to enjoy collard greens and black-eyed peas, fried oysters and lemon pepper catfish. But Soul Slice’s main point of distinction is that it serves all those dishes and more on top of its proprietary biscuit crust. As a pizza, in other words. To Louis’s knowledge, it’s the first dedicated biscuit pizza restaurant anywhere in the country. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The restaurant will open on Saturday, June 19, or Juneteenth, the holiday celebrating the emancipation of enslaved people in the United States— a “dream day” to open, Louis says, because he sees the restaurant as a celebration of Black culture.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“The goal,” he says, “is to glorify and bring more focus on the origins of African American cuisine.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>Louis, a self-described serial restaurateur, was an operating partner at San Francisco’s Samovar Tea Lounge in the mid to late aughts, after which he ran a chain of \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.cuisinenoirmag.com/hillbilly-tea-louisville-kentucky/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Appalachia-themed restaurants called Hillbilly Tea\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> based in Louisville. His dream, however, was to open a soul food restaurant, especially as he learned more about this history of the cuisine over the years—about how \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://madfeed.co/2015/a-peoples-history-of-carolina-rice/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Carolina Gold rice was brought over to the U.S. in the pockets of enslaved West Africans\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, and \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.washingtonpost.com/news/voraciously/wp/2019/07/22/today-even-fancy-restaurants-serve-biscuits-and-gravy-but-the-dish-comes-from-modest-beginnings/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">the way that biscuits themselves evolved\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> from hard, cracker-like objects eaten by British sailors to a staple of the American South. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For years, Louis had assumed that biscuit-crust pizza was just an odd thing that he had done as a child, but when he started talking to people about it as an adult, he realized that many Southern folks, in particular, had done the same thing growing up. Google “biscuit pizza,” and you’ll find several dozen recipes, though very few that incorporate any soul food ingredients. For Louis, however, the combination struck him as being “as American as you can get.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">At the end of the day, Louis says, Soul Slice is a pizza restaurant. The chef’s biscuit creations \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">look\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> like pizza; you cut it into slices and eat it like a pizza. The main difference is that the pizzas don’t draw on Italian or Italian American flavors. “We don’t have mozzarella in our profile whatsoever,” Louis says. “I don’t even think we have oregano.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Instead, the \u003ca href=\"https://soulslicepizza.com/menu\">pizzas are mostly made up of the kinds of things you’ll find in the American South\u003c/a>. One pizza features okra, smashed potatoes, crispy black-eyed peas, mustard greens, collards and tomatoes. You can get hot links or cornmeal-crusted fried oysters on your pizza. You can get Alpine cheese, cheddar or a vegan cheese. And while there is a house tomato sauce, customers might instead choose the hot sauce or the “mac cheese” sauce, which Louis says captures the “gooey, cheesy essence” of his mac and cheese recipe. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13898946\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2016px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13898946\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/SoulSlice_okra.jpg\" alt=\"Close-up of a pizza topped with okra and tomatoes.\" width=\"2016\" height=\"1512\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/SoulSlice_okra.jpg 2016w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/SoulSlice_okra-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/SoulSlice_okra-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/SoulSlice_okra-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/SoulSlice_okra-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/SoulSlice_okra-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/SoulSlice_okra-1920x1440.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2016px) 100vw, 2016px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Okra and Tomato pizza. \u003ccite>(Soul Slice)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Louis says when he moved back to the Bay Area in 2017 after living abroad in China and Taiwan for several years, he wasn’t necessarily looking to open another restaurant. But then the pandemic hit, and Louis says he saw the ways the restaurant industry was ravaged—the way so many cooks and servers lost their jobs, or felt compelled to keep showing up to work at risk of their own health and safety: “I just asked myself, what can I do?”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The same week he came up with the idea for Soul Slice, protests broke out all over the country in response to George Floyd’s murder at the hands of a white police officer, and Louis took that as a sign that focusing his efforts on celebrating Black food culture was the right thing to do.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“People don’t take into consideration the contributions that Black and brown people have made to this country,” he says. “This is an important cuisine to engage in.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13898944\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 373px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13898944\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/SoulSlice_Karter.jpg\" alt=\"Headshot of Karter Louis smiling in glasses and a white collared shirt.\" width=\"373\" height=\"483\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/SoulSlice_Karter.jpg 747w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/SoulSlice_Karter-160x207.jpg 160w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 373px) 100vw, 373px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Karter Louis is a self-described serial entrepreneur. \u003ccite>(Soul Slice)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">With all of the cracks in the restaurant industry’s existing business model that were exposed by the pandemic, Louis says he realized that he wanted to create a restaurant that would be more equitable and humane—no more nickel-and-diming employees for an hour here or there; no more elitist, fine-dining hierarchies where a server might make $100,000 a year while the dishwasher scrapes by on $30,000. “I’ve been a restaurant consultant, and I’ve trained people on how to cut costs—how to keep people in poverty, basically,” he says.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">At Soul Slice, Louis says, every worker—a staff of seven to start out—will be a \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://soulslicepizza.com/opportunities\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">full-time salaried employee\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> with health benefits, paid vacation and a 401(k). Everyone will work in both the front and back of the house, and they’ll all be paid according to their training level. It’ll be a five-step scale, with the goal of getting everyone to at least the fourth level. As Louis puts it, “Everyone gets the same pay at the same level. Everyone shares the tips; everyone works a full day; everyone takes two days off. It’s like a real company. That was the dream.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Once the restaurant opens, Louis says he’ll begin the process of applying to \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/133593/why-some-wineries-are-becoming-certified-b-corp-and-what-that-means\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">have it certified\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> as a \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://bcorporation.net/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">B Corp\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">—a business legally required to have a positive impact on both its workers and on the world at large. Eventually, he wants to open 20 outposts of Soul Slice all around the country in the next three to five years. But Oakland seemed like the perfect place to start.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“I want to hang my hat on Oakland,” Louis says. “Oakland is the beacon to me in terms of being able to prove the model and having a community of people who understand what we’re trying to do.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Soul Slice will open for both takeout and indoor dining on June 19 at 5849 San Pablo Ave. in Oakland. A back patio with outdoor seating will open later this summer. See the opening menu below:\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-13898978\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/Soul-Slice-Menu-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"The first page of the Soul Slice menu.\" width=\"1978\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/Soul-Slice-Menu-scaled.jpg 1978w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/Soul-Slice-Menu-800x1035.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/Soul-Slice-Menu-1020x1320.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/Soul-Slice-Menu-160x207.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/Soul-Slice-Menu-768x994.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/Soul-Slice-Menu-1187x1536.jpg 1187w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/Soul-Slice-Menu-1583x2048.jpg 1583w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/Soul-Slice-Menu-1920x2485.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1978px) 100vw, 1978px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"info": "What kind of no sabo word is Hyphenación? For us, it’s about living within a hyphenation. Like being a third-gen Mexican-American from the Texas border now living that Bay Area Chicano life. Like Xorje! Each week we bring together a couple of hyphenated Latinos to talk all about personal life choices: family, careers, relationships, belonging … everything is on the table. ",
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"info": "Our flagship program, helmed by Kai Ryssdal, examines what the day in money delivered, through stories, conversations, newsworthy numbers and more. Updated Monday through Friday at about 3:30 p.m. PT.",
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"mindshift": {
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"info": "The MindShift podcast explores the innovations in education that are shaping how kids learn. Hosts Ki Sung and Katrina Schwartz introduce listeners to educators, researchers, parents and students who are developing effective ways to improve how kids learn. We cover topics like how fed-up administrators are developing surprising tactics to deal with classroom disruptions; how listening to podcasts are helping kids develop reading skills; the consequences of overparenting; and why interdisciplinary learning can engage students on all ends of the traditional achievement spectrum. This podcast is part of the MindShift education site, a division of KQED News. KQED is an NPR/PBS member station based in San Francisco. You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>",
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"order": 12
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"info": "For decades, the process for how police police themselves has been inconsistent – if not opaque. In some states, like California, these proceedings were completely hidden. After a new police transparency law unsealed scores of internal affairs files, our reporters set out to examine these cases and the shadow world of police discipline. On Our Watch brings listeners into the rooms where officers are questioned and witnesses are interrogated to find out who this system is really protecting. Is it the officers, or the public they've sworn to serve?",
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"tagline": "Politics from a personal perspective",
"info": "Political Breakdown is a new series that explores the political intersection of California and the nation. Each week hosts Scott Shafer and Marisa Lagos are joined with a new special guest to unpack politics -- with personality — and offer an insider’s glimpse at how politics happens.",
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"possible": {
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"title": "Possible",
"info": "Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.",
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},
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"pri-the-world": {
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"title": "PRI's The World: Latest Edition",
"info": "Each weekday, host Marco Werman and his team of producers bring you the world's most interesting stories in an hour of radio that reminds us just how small our planet really is.",
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"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/The-World-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
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},
"radiolab": {
"id": "radiolab",
"title": "Radiolab",
"info": "A two-time Peabody Award-winner, Radiolab is an investigation told through sounds and stories, and centered around one big idea. In the Radiolab world, information sounds like music and science and culture collide. Hosted by Jad Abumrad and Robert Krulwich, the show is designed for listeners who demand skepticism, but appreciate wonder. WNYC Studios is the producer of other leading podcasts including Freakonomics Radio, Death, Sex & Money, On the Media and many more.",
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},
"reveal": {
"id": "reveal",
"title": "Reveal",
"info": "Created by The Center for Investigative Reporting and PRX, Reveal is public radios first one-hour weekly radio show and podcast dedicated to investigative reporting. Credible, fact based and without a partisan agenda, Reveal combines the power and artistry of driveway moment storytelling with data-rich reporting on critically important issues. The result is stories that inform and inspire, arming our listeners with information to right injustices, hold the powerful accountable and improve lives.Reveal is hosted by Al Letson and showcases the award-winning work of CIR and newsrooms large and small across the nation. In a radio and podcast market crowded with choices, Reveal focuses on important and often surprising stories that illuminate the world for our listeners.",
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