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"bio": "Alan Chazaro is the author of \u003cem>This Is Not a Frank Ocean Cover Album\u003c/em> (Black Lawrence Press, 2019), \u003cem>Piñata Theory\u003c/em> (Black Lawrence Press, 2020), and \u003cem>Notes from the Eastern Span of the Bay Bridge\u003c/em> (Ghost City Press, 2021). He is a graduate of June Jordan’s Poetry for the People program at UC Berkeley and a former Lawrence Ferlinghetti Fellow at the University of San Francisco. He writes about sports, food, art, music, education, and culture while repping the Bay on \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/alan_chazaro\">Twitter\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/alan_chazaro/?hl=en\">Instagram\u003c/a> at @alan_chazaro.",
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"title": "Why I Love Hawaiian BBQ: In Praise of One of the Bay's Great Multicultural Cuisines",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[dropcap]F[/dropcap]or most of two decades, I grew up in a single-parent home in the South Bay with a Mexican immigrant father. I remember that our first apartment complex was surrounded by Vietnamese and Chinese immigrants, many of whom didn’t speak English. Still, we all learned how to communicate and mix our customs, spending time in each other’s homes and eating each other’s food. For me and my brother, that meant an extra dose of potstickers and noodles as kids. Our world opened up beyond the tortas, bistec, and quesadillas my dad would often make for dinner, and as I grew older, I understood what it meant to constantly translate cultures through taste.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In our neighborhood, we had access to everything from Round Table Pizza and Kentucky Fried Chicken to Middle Eastern rotisserie and German hofbrauhaus. But as a first-generation Mexican American with all of these options, there was one plate I grew to relish more than any other: Hawaiian barbecue.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The “plate lunch” combo was my favorite, no matter where I got it. It always arrived in a steamy container with a creamy scoop of macaroni salad, a lump of sticky white rice, and strips of grilled chicken on a bed of greens—all for a relatively affordable price. Occasionally, I’d mix it up with some breaded katsu for the extra crunch, or order two scoops of mac instead of rice. A can of sinfully sweet Hawaiian Sun completed the meal. I never questioned the origins of the dish.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">But eventually I wondered: Did this really come from Hawaii? And how did it get to become such a popular meal for Northern Californians? \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">What I’ve come to understand is that…it’s complicated. There’s a distinction between “Hawaiian-style” foods and foods that are part of the “true,” original Hawaiian diet, such as fish, poi (a mash of starchy vegetables like taro or plantain) and certain fruits that are native to the islands. The rest has been modified over years of migration, colonialism and interchange.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Spam musubi? A mix of Japanese sushi and U.S. infantry rations from World War II. Loco moco? A mash-up of Spaniard-introduced beef, British gravy and Chinese rice that a group of young cooks tossed into a bowl at a diner in Hilo, Hawaii, in 1949. (One of the teens, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.eastbaytimes.com/2018/11/30/loco-moco-hawaiis-iconic-dish-has-roots-in-the-east-bay/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">George Takahashi, later migrated to San Leandro\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">.) “Hawaiian pizza”? Don’t even think about it. Even the ukulele was brought over by the Portuguese, along with their sausages, oils and batters—key contributions that led to Hawaii’s eventual boom in fried treats like poi doughnuts.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13911077\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13911077\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/hawaiianbbq_ilava-scaled.jpg\" alt='iLava Hawaiian Barbecue owner Nicolle Jacinto makes a \"hang loose\" hand gesture in front of an ocean mural inside her East Oakland restaurant.' width=\"2560\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/hawaiianbbq_ilava-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/hawaiianbbq_ilava-800x450.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/hawaiianbbq_ilava-1020x574.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/hawaiianbbq_ilava-160x90.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/hawaiianbbq_ilava-768x432.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/hawaiianbbq_ilava-1536x864.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/hawaiianbbq_ilava-2048x1152.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/hawaiianbbq_ilava-1920x1080.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nicole Jacinto fell in love with barbecuing in her native Philippines. Now, she runs a Hawaiian barbecue spot in a Latino strip mall in East Oakland. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>Fusion in an Unlikely Place\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The story of Hawaiian barbecue isn’t a story about the sanctity of the purest Hawaiian foods. Instead, it’s a celebration of what it means to be from many places at once, of having mixed upbringings, of melting together a multitude of deliciously imperfect cultural elements and serving them in a Styrofoam to-go box. Most importantly, it’s about finding and tasting that fusion in the most unlikely places—like a Central American strip mall in East Oakland.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Hawaiian food isn’t just 100% Hawaiian food, especially in the Bay Area,” says Nicolle Jacinto, owner of \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.ilavahawaiianbbq.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">iLava Hawaiian Barbecue\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, which sits in the aforementioned strip mall. “It’s a mix of many cultures. There’s a fusion and variety of ethnicities here, and since we all eat different foods, Hawaiian has been able to become so popular.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The restaurant is located on a metaphorical island on High Street and International Boulevard. It’s a barely noticeable independent shop surrounded by taco trucks, mega-mercados, lavanderías, pawn shops, armed security guards and fast food joints. Yet right in the heart of this predominantly Latino epicenter, you’ll find this tropically inspired restaurant, serving classic plates of island-style food to a diverse clientele of Spanish-speaking immigrants, high-schoolers and other non-Hawaiians.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[pullquote size=\"large\" align=\"right\"]“The story of Hawaiian barbecue isn’t a story about the sanctity of the purest Hawaiian foods. Instead, it’s a celebration of what it means to be from many places at once.”[/pullquote]Jacinto opened the business in 2017, when her former employer at Hawaiian Grill Express in San Lorenzo asked if she would be interested in running her own restaurant as a part-owner. Since then, Jacinto has overseen iLava’s success, expanding into catering services and a food truck that circulates the entire Bay Area.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The business serves classic Hawaiian-style plate lunches that feature dishes like barbecue chicken, beef and short ribs, kalua pork, lau lau and garlic shrimp. There’s also a menu of fresh tropical smoothies like the “Hawaiian Sunrise,” a tangy blend of passionfruit and mango. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The one \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/ilava-hawaiian-barbecue-oakland-4\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Yelp\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> reviewer who says iLava is “not a true authentic Hawaiian place” because they don’t serve poi seems to miss the point about what the restaurant does do well: a Californicated version of Pacific Island sustenance, served at reasonable prices, in a part of the city that otherwise lacks any major Polynesian presence.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In many ways, Hawaiian culinary history seems to be just that—a whirlpool of various, inexplicably linked ingredients from miscellaneous sources that can be cooked on the spot for anyone who’s hungry. Jacinto embodies this fusion in her own journey. After immigrating to the East Bay from the Philippines in 2009, Jacinto missed the flavors of her past. Though she isn’t Hawaiian by birth, many of her Filipino family members migrated to Hawaii in the 1990s. During yearly trips to the islands, she learned about the nuanced varieties of regional foods while helping her mother cook for relatives. According to Jacinto, the parallels between Hawaiians and Filipinos are unmistakable, highlighted by “a great sense of hospitality, an appreciation for tropical weather and a love of grilled meat.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“My favorite Hawaiian dish is kalua pork,” she tells me. “It’s slow roasted, and it’s basically lechón in the Philippines. It’s prepared slightly differently—lechón is crispier—but it’s almost the same.” (A Latina employee at iLava excitedly compared the dish to carnitas.) Filipino ube (mashed purple yam) has a distinct purple hue, just like Hawaiian poi.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">From a young age, Jacinto would cook skewered meats in the streets of her native country, grilling them over open flames and selling them to neighbors and passersby on their way to work. It was relatively inexpensive and convenient, she explains, to prepare food in this fashion. That’s where she gained an appreciation for barbecuing.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>A Bay Area Classic\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Of course, Hawaiian food is much more than grilled meats. But that particular style, commonly known as “Hawaiian BBQ,” is the one that’s the most widely available here in the Bay Area—especially the classic style of meal known as the plate lunch. Born from \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://hawaiioceanproject.com/a-brief-history-of-plate-lunches-in-hawaii/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">a working-class context of mixed leftover foods—\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">scraps from previous night’s meals consisting of rice, macaroni and a protein, heaped in a to-go bento box—the plate lunch has become an indisputable California favorite. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13911080\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13911080\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/patricklandeza_poke-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"Patrick Landeza mixes poke inside a large metal bowl..\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/patricklandeza_poke-scaled.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/patricklandeza_poke-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/patricklandeza_poke-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/patricklandeza_poke-160x213.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/patricklandeza_poke-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/patricklandeza_poke-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/patricklandeza_poke-1536x2048.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Patrick Landeza, a Hawaiian cook and musician based in Hayward, specializes in poke. But he appreciates the way Hawaiian barbecue spots make the culture more accessible to the mainstream. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Patrick Landeza)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“A plate lunch is just a mixture of things. We’re talking about Japanese, Korean, Hawaiian and more. We’re here in the Bay Area, and this is our taste profile, so that’s why it’s popping up everywhere,” says Patrick Landeza, a Hawaiian cook and musician who owns \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://landezasisland.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Landeza’s Island Poke & Catering\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> in Hayward, and is a member of the \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://hccnc.org/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Hawai’i Chamber of Commerce in Northern California\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Though Landeza believes most Hawaiian barbecue outlets lack “true aloha,” or a sense of soul and genuine service, he also admits that they are good at “doing what they do by serving comfort food.” Raised on the “island of Berkeley,” Landeza specializes in poke—bowls of diced raw fish and other ingredients—which is a certified Hawaiian staple. As a Bay Area Hawaiian OG, he acknowledges the importance and accessibility of mainstream Hawaiian barbecue among the non-Hawaiian population.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The cuisine’s origins on the mainland date back to 1999 when Johnson Kam and Eddie Flores, Jr. opened their \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"http://archives.starbulletin.com/1999/11/26/business/story1.html\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">first L&L Hawaiian BBQ outside of Hawaii\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. This was already three decades after the pair had successfully launched the original L&L Drive-In in 1976, in the Kalihi neighborhood of Oahu.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Their brand of quick, simple Hawaiian fare reached California’s shores when \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"http://archives.starbulletin.com/1999/11/26/business/story1.html\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">a former employee relocated to San Francisco\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> and began to serve his own Hawaiian-style plate lunches as a side hustle, Landeza explains. That initial success eventually led to the commercialization of Hawaiian food services that have since proliferated under the L&L brand name. Nowadays, the chain boasts over 200 locations throughout the United States, including a recent opening of their first franchise as far east as Florida. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Like the plate lunches they serve, L&L’s take on \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.hawaiianbarbecue.com/about/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“the state food of Hawaii”\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> is a fusion of past traditions with modern business opportunities. They were able to offer ownership to anyone willing to invest in their franchise model—whether Hawaiian-heritaged or not. A wave of shops selling what we now know as “Hawaiian BBQ” emerged as a result, often owned by immigrants like Jacinto.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[pullquote size=\"large\" align=\"right\"]“Eating a Filipino-prepared Hawaiian plate lunch in Oakland served by Latino employees represents the beauty of what food can teach us about our human similarities.”[/pullquote]There are other reasons \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2019/1/28/18178937/hawaiian-food-trend-san-francisco-bay-area\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Hawaiian food has reached trending status in the Bay\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. For starters, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.sfgate.com/news/article/Bay-Area-has-big-Pacific-Islander-population-2839970.php\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">the region is home to the largest population of Polynesian islanders\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> who’ve transplanted to the contiguous stateside, making this the world’s biggest Little Island, with the cities of Hayward and Vallejo boasting the most Hawaiian residents. This proximity for cultural exchange largely explains why so many Americanized Polynesian trends have been popularized in the Bay, including tiki bars and \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.curacaoliqueur.com/articles/the-mai-tai-history-and-its-recipes-explained\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">the disputed origins of the mai tai cocktail\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For many, these can come across as a form of \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.latimes.com/food/story/2019-11-27/tiki-bar-problems\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">cultural appropriation and “colonial nostalgia\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">.” I’ve seen the same exotic simplification happen with Mexican food—it’s tricky territory to mindlessly enjoy a tiki beverage or “Aloha burger” without considering the layers beneath the surface. On the one hand, it represents some attempt to offer the flavors and experiences of a region. But when done poorly, it comes off as kitschy, tone-deaf and imperialistically exploitative. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In the case of iLava, though, eating a Filipino-prepared Hawaiian plate lunch in Oakland served by Latino employees represents the beauty of what food can teach us about our human similarities.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13900855,arts_13898436,arts_13904835']“Food is a vehicle for building community, creating and nurturing that community,” says Landeza. “I don’t do Hawaiian barbecue. I am a Hawaiian caterer who does Hawaiian food. But coming from the mainland with Hawaiian roots, we miss these foods because we identify with it, and we want to relive that however we can. I’ve lived in both worlds, and there is a way to share that aloha, through food and music.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Whatever your personal preferences may be, I can only speak for mine: I’ll take a Hawaiian-style barbecue plate lunch any day of the week. There’s just something refreshingly simple about it, and it reminds me of how we’re all a mixture of histories that are outside of anyone’s control or simple definitions. In a way, this mishmash is the only thing I know. It’s a place of comfort for me as the child of immigrants.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Jacinto, an immigrant herself, feels similarly. “Hawaii reminds me of my home—the warmth, the green, the beaches,” she says. “It’s the closest where I can feel like I’m home.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Who can’t stomach that?\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>iLava Hawaiian Barbecue is open 11 am–8:15 pm daily at 1446 High St. in Oakland.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class=\"utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__dropcapShortcode__dropcap\">F\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>or most of two decades, I grew up in a single-parent home in the South Bay with a Mexican immigrant father. I remember that our first apartment complex was surrounded by Vietnamese and Chinese immigrants, many of whom didn’t speak English. Still, we all learned how to communicate and mix our customs, spending time in each other’s homes and eating each other’s food. For me and my brother, that meant an extra dose of potstickers and noodles as kids. Our world opened up beyond the tortas, bistec, and quesadillas my dad would often make for dinner, and as I grew older, I understood what it meant to constantly translate cultures through taste.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In our neighborhood, we had access to everything from Round Table Pizza and Kentucky Fried Chicken to Middle Eastern rotisserie and German hofbrauhaus. But as a first-generation Mexican American with all of these options, there was one plate I grew to relish more than any other: Hawaiian barbecue.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The “plate lunch” combo was my favorite, no matter where I got it. It always arrived in a steamy container with a creamy scoop of macaroni salad, a lump of sticky white rice, and strips of grilled chicken on a bed of greens—all for a relatively affordable price. Occasionally, I’d mix it up with some breaded katsu for the extra crunch, or order two scoops of mac instead of rice. A can of sinfully sweet Hawaiian Sun completed the meal. I never questioned the origins of the dish.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">But eventually I wondered: Did this really come from Hawaii? And how did it get to become such a popular meal for Northern Californians? \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">What I’ve come to understand is that…it’s complicated. There’s a distinction between “Hawaiian-style” foods and foods that are part of the “true,” original Hawaiian diet, such as fish, poi (a mash of starchy vegetables like taro or plantain) and certain fruits that are native to the islands. The rest has been modified over years of migration, colonialism and interchange.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Spam musubi? A mix of Japanese sushi and U.S. infantry rations from World War II. Loco moco? A mash-up of Spaniard-introduced beef, British gravy and Chinese rice that a group of young cooks tossed into a bowl at a diner in Hilo, Hawaii, in 1949. (One of the teens, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.eastbaytimes.com/2018/11/30/loco-moco-hawaiis-iconic-dish-has-roots-in-the-east-bay/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">George Takahashi, later migrated to San Leandro\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">.) “Hawaiian pizza”? Don’t even think about it. Even the ukulele was brought over by the Portuguese, along with their sausages, oils and batters—key contributions that led to Hawaii’s eventual boom in fried treats like poi doughnuts.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13911077\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13911077\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/hawaiianbbq_ilava-scaled.jpg\" alt='iLava Hawaiian Barbecue owner Nicolle Jacinto makes a \"hang loose\" hand gesture in front of an ocean mural inside her East Oakland restaurant.' width=\"2560\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/hawaiianbbq_ilava-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/hawaiianbbq_ilava-800x450.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/hawaiianbbq_ilava-1020x574.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/hawaiianbbq_ilava-160x90.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/hawaiianbbq_ilava-768x432.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/hawaiianbbq_ilava-1536x864.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/hawaiianbbq_ilava-2048x1152.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/hawaiianbbq_ilava-1920x1080.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nicole Jacinto fell in love with barbecuing in her native Philippines. Now, she runs a Hawaiian barbecue spot in a Latino strip mall in East Oakland. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>Fusion in an Unlikely Place\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The story of Hawaiian barbecue isn’t a story about the sanctity of the purest Hawaiian foods. Instead, it’s a celebration of what it means to be from many places at once, of having mixed upbringings, of melting together a multitude of deliciously imperfect cultural elements and serving them in a Styrofoam to-go box. Most importantly, it’s about finding and tasting that fusion in the most unlikely places—like a Central American strip mall in East Oakland.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Hawaiian food isn’t just 100% Hawaiian food, especially in the Bay Area,” says Nicolle Jacinto, owner of \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.ilavahawaiianbbq.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">iLava Hawaiian Barbecue\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, which sits in the aforementioned strip mall. “It’s a mix of many cultures. There’s a fusion and variety of ethnicities here, and since we all eat different foods, Hawaiian has been able to become so popular.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The restaurant is located on a metaphorical island on High Street and International Boulevard. It’s a barely noticeable independent shop surrounded by taco trucks, mega-mercados, lavanderías, pawn shops, armed security guards and fast food joints. Yet right in the heart of this predominantly Latino epicenter, you’ll find this tropically inspired restaurant, serving classic plates of island-style food to a diverse clientele of Spanish-speaking immigrants, high-schoolers and other non-Hawaiians.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "“The story of Hawaiian barbecue isn’t a story about the sanctity of the purest Hawaiian foods. Instead, it’s a celebration of what it means to be from many places at once.”",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>Jacinto opened the business in 2017, when her former employer at Hawaiian Grill Express in San Lorenzo asked if she would be interested in running her own restaurant as a part-owner. Since then, Jacinto has overseen iLava’s success, expanding into catering services and a food truck that circulates the entire Bay Area.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The business serves classic Hawaiian-style plate lunches that feature dishes like barbecue chicken, beef and short ribs, kalua pork, lau lau and garlic shrimp. There’s also a menu of fresh tropical smoothies like the “Hawaiian Sunrise,” a tangy blend of passionfruit and mango. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The one \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/ilava-hawaiian-barbecue-oakland-4\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Yelp\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> reviewer who says iLava is “not a true authentic Hawaiian place” because they don’t serve poi seems to miss the point about what the restaurant does do well: a Californicated version of Pacific Island sustenance, served at reasonable prices, in a part of the city that otherwise lacks any major Polynesian presence.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In many ways, Hawaiian culinary history seems to be just that—a whirlpool of various, inexplicably linked ingredients from miscellaneous sources that can be cooked on the spot for anyone who’s hungry. Jacinto embodies this fusion in her own journey. After immigrating to the East Bay from the Philippines in 2009, Jacinto missed the flavors of her past. Though she isn’t Hawaiian by birth, many of her Filipino family members migrated to Hawaii in the 1990s. During yearly trips to the islands, she learned about the nuanced varieties of regional foods while helping her mother cook for relatives. According to Jacinto, the parallels between Hawaiians and Filipinos are unmistakable, highlighted by “a great sense of hospitality, an appreciation for tropical weather and a love of grilled meat.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“My favorite Hawaiian dish is kalua pork,” she tells me. “It’s slow roasted, and it’s basically lechón in the Philippines. It’s prepared slightly differently—lechón is crispier—but it’s almost the same.” (A Latina employee at iLava excitedly compared the dish to carnitas.) Filipino ube (mashed purple yam) has a distinct purple hue, just like Hawaiian poi.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">From a young age, Jacinto would cook skewered meats in the streets of her native country, grilling them over open flames and selling them to neighbors and passersby on their way to work. It was relatively inexpensive and convenient, she explains, to prepare food in this fashion. That’s where she gained an appreciation for barbecuing.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>A Bay Area Classic\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Of course, Hawaiian food is much more than grilled meats. But that particular style, commonly known as “Hawaiian BBQ,” is the one that’s the most widely available here in the Bay Area—especially the classic style of meal known as the plate lunch. Born from \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://hawaiioceanproject.com/a-brief-history-of-plate-lunches-in-hawaii/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">a working-class context of mixed leftover foods—\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">scraps from previous night’s meals consisting of rice, macaroni and a protein, heaped in a to-go bento box—the plate lunch has become an indisputable California favorite. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13911080\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13911080\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/patricklandeza_poke-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"Patrick Landeza mixes poke inside a large metal bowl..\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/patricklandeza_poke-scaled.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/patricklandeza_poke-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/patricklandeza_poke-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/patricklandeza_poke-160x213.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/patricklandeza_poke-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/patricklandeza_poke-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/patricklandeza_poke-1536x2048.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Patrick Landeza, a Hawaiian cook and musician based in Hayward, specializes in poke. But he appreciates the way Hawaiian barbecue spots make the culture more accessible to the mainstream. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Patrick Landeza)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“A plate lunch is just a mixture of things. We’re talking about Japanese, Korean, Hawaiian and more. We’re here in the Bay Area, and this is our taste profile, so that’s why it’s popping up everywhere,” says Patrick Landeza, a Hawaiian cook and musician who owns \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://landezasisland.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Landeza’s Island Poke & Catering\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> in Hayward, and is a member of the \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://hccnc.org/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Hawai’i Chamber of Commerce in Northern California\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Though Landeza believes most Hawaiian barbecue outlets lack “true aloha,” or a sense of soul and genuine service, he also admits that they are good at “doing what they do by serving comfort food.” Raised on the “island of Berkeley,” Landeza specializes in poke—bowls of diced raw fish and other ingredients—which is a certified Hawaiian staple. As a Bay Area Hawaiian OG, he acknowledges the importance and accessibility of mainstream Hawaiian barbecue among the non-Hawaiian population.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The cuisine’s origins on the mainland date back to 1999 when Johnson Kam and Eddie Flores, Jr. opened their \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"http://archives.starbulletin.com/1999/11/26/business/story1.html\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">first L&L Hawaiian BBQ outside of Hawaii\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. This was already three decades after the pair had successfully launched the original L&L Drive-In in 1976, in the Kalihi neighborhood of Oahu.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Their brand of quick, simple Hawaiian fare reached California’s shores when \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"http://archives.starbulletin.com/1999/11/26/business/story1.html\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">a former employee relocated to San Francisco\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> and began to serve his own Hawaiian-style plate lunches as a side hustle, Landeza explains. That initial success eventually led to the commercialization of Hawaiian food services that have since proliferated under the L&L brand name. Nowadays, the chain boasts over 200 locations throughout the United States, including a recent opening of their first franchise as far east as Florida. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Like the plate lunches they serve, L&L’s take on \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.hawaiianbarbecue.com/about/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“the state food of Hawaii”\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> is a fusion of past traditions with modern business opportunities. They were able to offer ownership to anyone willing to invest in their franchise model—whether Hawaiian-heritaged or not. A wave of shops selling what we now know as “Hawaiian BBQ” emerged as a result, often owned by immigrants like Jacinto.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "“Eating a Filipino-prepared Hawaiian plate lunch in Oakland served by Latino employees represents the beauty of what food can teach us about our human similarities.”",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>There are other reasons \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2019/1/28/18178937/hawaiian-food-trend-san-francisco-bay-area\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Hawaiian food has reached trending status in the Bay\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. For starters, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.sfgate.com/news/article/Bay-Area-has-big-Pacific-Islander-population-2839970.php\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">the region is home to the largest population of Polynesian islanders\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> who’ve transplanted to the contiguous stateside, making this the world’s biggest Little Island, with the cities of Hayward and Vallejo boasting the most Hawaiian residents. This proximity for cultural exchange largely explains why so many Americanized Polynesian trends have been popularized in the Bay, including tiki bars and \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.curacaoliqueur.com/articles/the-mai-tai-history-and-its-recipes-explained\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">the disputed origins of the mai tai cocktail\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For many, these can come across as a form of \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.latimes.com/food/story/2019-11-27/tiki-bar-problems\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">cultural appropriation and “colonial nostalgia\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">.” I’ve seen the same exotic simplification happen with Mexican food—it’s tricky territory to mindlessly enjoy a tiki beverage or “Aloha burger” without considering the layers beneath the surface. On the one hand, it represents some attempt to offer the flavors and experiences of a region. But when done poorly, it comes off as kitschy, tone-deaf and imperialistically exploitative. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In the case of iLava, though, eating a Filipino-prepared Hawaiian plate lunch in Oakland served by Latino employees represents the beauty of what food can teach us about our human similarities.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>“Food is a vehicle for building community, creating and nurturing that community,” says Landeza. “I don’t do Hawaiian barbecue. I am a Hawaiian caterer who does Hawaiian food. But coming from the mainland with Hawaiian roots, we miss these foods because we identify with it, and we want to relive that however we can. I’ve lived in both worlds, and there is a way to share that aloha, through food and music.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Whatever your personal preferences may be, I can only speak for mine: I’ll take a Hawaiian-style barbecue plate lunch any day of the week. There’s just something refreshingly simple about it, and it reminds me of how we’re all a mixture of histories that are outside of anyone’s control or simple definitions. In a way, this mishmash is the only thing I know. It’s a place of comfort for me as the child of immigrants.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Jacinto, an immigrant herself, feels similarly. “Hawaii reminds me of my home—the warmth, the green, the beaches,” she says. “It’s the closest where I can feel like I’m home.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Who can’t stomach that?\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>iLava Hawaiian Barbecue is open 11 am–8:15 pm daily at 1446 High St. in Oakland.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "Legendary Oakland Barbecue Spot Flint's Will Open for Takeout This Summer",
"headTitle": "Legendary Oakland Barbecue Spot Flint’s Will Open for Takeout This Summer | KQED",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For the past few months, Crystal Martin was on the verge of achieving a long-held dream. The granddaughter of the founder of \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/flintsbarbecue/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Flint’s Barbecue\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, an \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13894423/flints-an-icon-of-oakland-barbecue-plots-return-to-original-location\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">iconic restaurant in the annals of Oakland barbecue\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, had been working to resurrect the family business—in one of the original Flint’s locations, on San Pablo Avenue in West Oakland, no less.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Now, Martin says she’s one step closer to achieving her goal, though perhaps not in the way she expected: This summer, Martin will open Flint’s as a takeout- and delivery-only restaurant that will be part of a new \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.cloudkitchens.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">CloudKitchens\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> ghost kitchen facility located in a big warehouse at \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.loopnet.com/portfolio-property/5325-5333-Adeline-St-Emeryville-CA/5971289/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">5325 Adeline Street\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, at the border of North Oakland and Emeryville. She just signed the lease this week.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The upshot is that, for the first time in more than a decade, customers both old and new will be able to get a hold of Flint’s Barbecue’s famous coarse-ground links, ribs and barbecue sauce on a regular basis. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/CPUOjEcsNSJ/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The decision comes, in part, because Martin wasn’t able to secure the old San Pablo Avenue space after all. Her original plan was an ambitious one: The original Flint’s building has sat empty since the late ’90s, and its prospective buyer had told Martin that it needed upwards of $40,000 in construction work before she’d be able to move in. But then it seems the buyer had a change of heart, and now, Martin says, someone \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">else\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> is buying the building—someone who has other plans for the space. [aside postID='arts_13894423' \u003ci>label=\u003c/i>'More on Flint’s']\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">It was a disappointment, Martin concedes. But she’d also already started looking into alternatives. “Something told me to prepare a plan B,” she says. “The dream was to go back to that San Pablo location, but you know, maybe that wasn’t meant for us.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Of course, opening in a ghost kitchen isn’t necessarily the ideal. According to Martin, the yet-unnamed Adeline Street facility will be home to 40 different businesses, each of them with their own little kitchen space in the warehouse. There won’t be any seating for customers; there won’t even be any signage for Flint’s outside of the building—the number of other restaurants sharing the space makes that unfeasible. Customers will be able to order takeout in person, but a lot of the business will be filtered through delivery apps like DoorDash and Uber Eats. CloudKitchens, a company backed by Uber co-founder Travis Kalanick, is one of a number of so-called \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/135793/delivery-only-the-rise-of-restaurants-with-no-diners-as-apps-take-orders\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">ghost kitchen, or virtual kitchen, companies\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> that have expanded their operations during the pandemic—companies whose long-term impact on the restaurant industry remains \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.eater.com/21540765/ghost-kitchens-virtual-restaurants-covid-19-industry-impact\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">very much an open question\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13894445\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13894445\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/flints_crystalmartin.crop_.jpg\" alt=\"Crystal Martin stands inside her Alameda commercial kitchen space during one of her Flint's pop-ups.\" width=\"640\" height=\"908\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/flints_crystalmartin.crop_.jpg 640w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/flints_crystalmartin.crop_-160x227.jpg 160w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Crystal Martin at her Alameda commercial kitchen space during one of her Flint’s pop-ups. \u003ccite>(HMTWNHERO)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In Oakland, CloudKitchens already runs one big ghost kitchen facility, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://oaklandfoodhall.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Oakland Food Hall\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, in East Oakland. It has yet to formally announce the North Oakland/Emeryville project, though Martin says her understanding is that construction is well under way. (KQED reached out to CloudKitchens to confirm the details of the new ghost kitchen, but had not received a response at time of publication.)\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Nevertheless, Martin is excited about the prospect of being able to finally turn the new Flint’s into a full-fledged business after spending the past year only selling her barbecue once every few months. When she opens in the ghost kitchen space—tentatively around July 15, Martin says—she plans to be open Thursday through Sunday to start out, and then eventually six days a week. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13894446\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13894446\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/FlintSlinks.Crop_.jpg\" alt=\"Two trays full of Flint's house-made links.\" width=\"800\" height=\"646\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/FlintSlinks.Crop_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/FlintSlinks.Crop_-160x129.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/FlintSlinks.Crop_-768x620.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The coarse-ground links were one of Flint’s signature items. \u003ccite>(Flint's Barbecue)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“It’s a good starting place,” Martin says. She won’t have to take on the risk of signing a five- or 10-year lease right out of the gate, and she’ll be able to make sure the business is profitable and sustainable before making a larger commitment. “We do hope to someday have our own brick and mortar,” she says.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Meanwhile, Martin has raised a little over $7,000 toward opening her restaurant via a \u003ca href=\"https://www.gofundme.com/f/help-us-move-back-to-san-pablo\">GoFundMe campaign\u003c/a>—money she says she wound up using for the down payment on her \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">CloudKitchens spot\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. She’s hoping supporters of the restaurant will still consider chipping in: She still needs to buy about $15,000 worth of equipment, including a new indoor smoker, before she can open for business.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For the past few months, Crystal Martin was on the verge of achieving a long-held dream. The granddaughter of the founder of \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/flintsbarbecue/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Flint’s Barbecue\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, an \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13894423/flints-an-icon-of-oakland-barbecue-plots-return-to-original-location\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">iconic restaurant in the annals of Oakland barbecue\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, had been working to resurrect the family business—in one of the original Flint’s locations, on San Pablo Avenue in West Oakland, no less.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Now, Martin says she’s one step closer to achieving her goal, though perhaps not in the way she expected: This summer, Martin will open Flint’s as a takeout- and delivery-only restaurant that will be part of a new \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.cloudkitchens.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">CloudKitchens\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> ghost kitchen facility located in a big warehouse at \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.loopnet.com/portfolio-property/5325-5333-Adeline-St-Emeryville-CA/5971289/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">5325 Adeline Street\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, at the border of North Oakland and Emeryville. She just signed the lease this week.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The upshot is that, for the first time in more than a decade, customers both old and new will be able to get a hold of Flint’s Barbecue’s famous coarse-ground links, ribs and barbecue sauce on a regular basis. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The decision comes, in part, because Martin wasn’t able to secure the old San Pablo Avenue space after all. Her original plan was an ambitious one: The original Flint’s building has sat empty since the late ’90s, and its prospective buyer had told Martin that it needed upwards of $40,000 in construction work before she’d be able to move in. But then it seems the buyer had a change of heart, and now, Martin says, someone \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">else\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> is buying the building—someone who has other plans for the space. \u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">It was a disappointment, Martin concedes. But she’d also already started looking into alternatives. “Something told me to prepare a plan B,” she says. “The dream was to go back to that San Pablo location, but you know, maybe that wasn’t meant for us.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Of course, opening in a ghost kitchen isn’t necessarily the ideal. According to Martin, the yet-unnamed Adeline Street facility will be home to 40 different businesses, each of them with their own little kitchen space in the warehouse. There won’t be any seating for customers; there won’t even be any signage for Flint’s outside of the building—the number of other restaurants sharing the space makes that unfeasible. Customers will be able to order takeout in person, but a lot of the business will be filtered through delivery apps like DoorDash and Uber Eats. CloudKitchens, a company backed by Uber co-founder Travis Kalanick, is one of a number of so-called \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/135793/delivery-only-the-rise-of-restaurants-with-no-diners-as-apps-take-orders\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">ghost kitchen, or virtual kitchen, companies\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> that have expanded their operations during the pandemic—companies whose long-term impact on the restaurant industry remains \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.eater.com/21540765/ghost-kitchens-virtual-restaurants-covid-19-industry-impact\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">very much an open question\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13894445\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13894445\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/flints_crystalmartin.crop_.jpg\" alt=\"Crystal Martin stands inside her Alameda commercial kitchen space during one of her Flint's pop-ups.\" width=\"640\" height=\"908\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/flints_crystalmartin.crop_.jpg 640w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/flints_crystalmartin.crop_-160x227.jpg 160w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Crystal Martin at her Alameda commercial kitchen space during one of her Flint’s pop-ups. \u003ccite>(HMTWNHERO)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In Oakland, CloudKitchens already runs one big ghost kitchen facility, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://oaklandfoodhall.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Oakland Food Hall\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, in East Oakland. It has yet to formally announce the North Oakland/Emeryville project, though Martin says her understanding is that construction is well under way. (KQED reached out to CloudKitchens to confirm the details of the new ghost kitchen, but had not received a response at time of publication.)\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Nevertheless, Martin is excited about the prospect of being able to finally turn the new Flint’s into a full-fledged business after spending the past year only selling her barbecue once every few months. When she opens in the ghost kitchen space—tentatively around July 15, Martin says—she plans to be open Thursday through Sunday to start out, and then eventually six days a week. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13894446\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13894446\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/FlintSlinks.Crop_.jpg\" alt=\"Two trays full of Flint's house-made links.\" width=\"800\" height=\"646\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/FlintSlinks.Crop_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/FlintSlinks.Crop_-160x129.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/FlintSlinks.Crop_-768x620.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The coarse-ground links were one of Flint’s signature items. \u003ccite>(Flint's Barbecue)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“It’s a good starting place,” Martin says. She won’t have to take on the risk of signing a five- or 10-year lease right out of the gate, and she’ll be able to make sure the business is profitable and sustainable before making a larger commitment. “We do hope to someday have our own brick and mortar,” she says.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Meanwhile, Martin has raised a little over $7,000 toward opening her restaurant via a \u003ca href=\"https://www.gofundme.com/f/help-us-move-back-to-san-pablo\">GoFundMe campaign\u003c/a>—money she says she wound up using for the down payment on her \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">CloudKitchens spot\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. She’s hoping supporters of the restaurant will still consider chipping in: She still needs to buy about $15,000 worth of equipment, including a new indoor smoker, before she can open for business.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"title": "Fruitvale's Ruby Q Smoke Fusion Slings Barbecue Inspired by Mexico and Louisiana",
"headTitle": "Fruitvale’s Ruby Q Smoke Fusion Slings Barbecue Inspired by Mexico and Louisiana | KQED",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[dropcap]I[/dropcap]f I’m being honest, the East Bay doesn’t have enough barbecue. There’s only a handful of small, family-owned joints around here—and I support them when I can. So, when a local friend told me about \u003ca href=\"https://rubyqsmokefusion.com/\">Ruby Q Smoke Fusion\u003c/a>, a new barbecue spot in East Oakland, I made sure to check it out. I was extra hyped when I found out that it was run by a young married couple from the area, Reuben Mcelligott and Edlyn Rodriguez.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“It’s called fusion for a reason. I mean, look at the neighborhood we’re at and who we serve,” Rodriguez says. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">She’s talking about Fruitvale, where you’ll find some of the \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/135813/5-food-trucks-that-put-regional-mexican-plates-on-the-map\">best taco trucks anywhere on the entire West Coast\u003c/a>. The daughter of Mexican immigrants from Jalisco, Rodriguez knows the inside of a kitchen, having learned from her mother. But Ruby Q doesn’t serve traditional Mexican fare. Instead, it’s a fusion of Rodriguez’s culinary heritage combined with her husband’s family trade: Southern-style smoked and grilled meats. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13896416\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-13896416 size-medium\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/RubyQ_barbecue-800x1200.jpg\" alt=\"Takeout containers of barbecue and mac and cheese on a picnic table.\" width=\"800\" height=\"1200\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/RubyQ_barbecue-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/RubyQ_barbecue-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/RubyQ_barbecue-160x240.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/RubyQ_barbecue-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/RubyQ_barbecue-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/RubyQ_barbecue-1365x2048.jpg 1365w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/RubyQ_barbecue-1920x2880.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/RubyQ_barbecue-scaled.jpg 1707w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ribs, brisket, and mac and cheese. \u003ccite>(Briana Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The restaurant opened in June 2020, at the height of the pandemic, but with Rodriguez and Mcelligott’s dedication to serving great food while representing their cultures, it has flourished in a much-needed way. Though he jokes that his name sounds “white” because of his Irish grandfather, Mcelligott is a millennial Black dude who was raised around the corner. He was a 90s kid who never fully fit into any box and enjoyed skating, sports and hip hop—all elements that are on display on the restaurant’s walls.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">More importantly, the space is a homage to Mcelligott’s mother’s family, who first started their barbecue business in Louisiana in the early 1900s, and whose influence can still be felt and tasted over a century later. “We use the family recipe from back then for our barbecue sauce. It’s something my family has been doing for as long as I know,” he explains. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Both Mcelligott and Rodriguez are proud of their family’s legacies, and together, they’ve launched a dynamic and affordable culinary outlet that reflects where each of them come from—in a city known for its eclectic spirit of diversity and newness. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[dropcap]S[/dropcap]o what exactly do American barbecue and Mexican food look like when they’re combined together? Try Ruby Q’s barbecue brisket quesadilla—a soft, warm and decadently cheesy mixture of avocado, queso Mexicano, pico de gallo and, of course, a mound of lightly crisped, not-too-tangy brisket inside the gooey middle. You get a taste of both cultures in each mouthful. As a Mexican American from the Bay, I can honestly say it’s the most flavorful (and filling) quesadilla I’ve ever eaten. Sorry, abuelita. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13896418\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13896418\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/RubyQ_quesadilla-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"A fried quesadilla topped with sour cream, guacamole, and pico de gallo.\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/RubyQ_quesadilla-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/RubyQ_quesadilla-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/RubyQ_quesadilla-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/RubyQ_quesadilla-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/RubyQ_quesadilla-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/RubyQ_quesadilla-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/RubyQ_quesadilla-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The barbecue brisket quesadilla is one of the highlights. \u003ccite>(Briana Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">A single quesadilla could easily be your entire meal. But this is barbecue, so you’ll have to toss in a side of pulled pork nachos to go with that. Though I’ve eaten nacho remixes like this before, this version was on another level: the perfect combination of fresh tortilla chips, homemade guacamole, cheese, and juicy, fall-apart-on-your-fork pork that has been slow-cooked for hours. If that’s not your style, try the Louisiana gumbo with sausage that is “smoked while you sleep”—a nod to Mcelligott’s Cajun roots—which isn’t commonly offered in traditional barbecue settings. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside tag='barbecue' label='More Barbecue']However, the Ruby Q experience goes beyond its culinary heritage. The entire time I was there, the spot was hella active with locals. It’s a homey environment where the entire neighborhood converges, literally, to get a taste. Located at the chaotic intersection of Fruitvale Avenue and San Leandro Street, the restaurant is tucked in between an industrial railroad crossing, a busy highway overpass, a bustling BART station, and two Mexican restaurants. It’s surprisingly easy to miss. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">But if you close your eyes and inhale, you’ll only smell one thing: racks of meat being smoked daily. Follow that scent, and you’ll see why everyone is lining up.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">During my recent weeknight visit, I noticed an Asian family, a group of middle-aged Black women, a Mexican couple, teenage Pacific Islanders, and a squad of white city cowboys wearing their hats, boots and belt buckles. Everyone was enjoying the warm backdoor patio and the Mexican music from the bar next door, all while grubbing on group-sized portions of barbecued goodness. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">It was so busy that I felt guilty for interrupting the husband-and-wife team to ask questions, since they were the sole employees running the show. They even had two of their kids with them that day, who were reading and had built a fort in the corner. But like true Bay Area hustlers, the family made it look as effortless as a Steph Curry three-pointer in the 4th quarter. That’s because for Mcelligott, struggle and sacrifice are nothing new.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“I put everything into this. Did you see the billboard on 880 in front of the Coliseum? I put that up because I wanted everyone in my family to see what I was doing for us,” he says, referencing the massive advertisement he purchased when Ruby Q first opened. “Everybody can see that.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13896428\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13896428\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/RubyQ_window-800x533.jpg\" alt='Writing in the restaurant window reads, \"Seafood Gumbo,\" \"Loaded Nachos,\" \"Smoked While You Sleep,\" \"BBQ,\" and \"Open Patio.\"' width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/RubyQ_window-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/RubyQ_window-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/RubyQ_window-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/RubyQ_window-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/RubyQ_window-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/RubyQ_window-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/RubyQ_window-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The restaurant’s window advertises barbecue “smoked while you sleep.” \u003ccite>(Briana Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[dropcap]M[/dropcap]celligott’s vision began when he was a teenager growing up in East Oakland. His parents would send him to stay with his relatives in South Lake Tahoe every summer because he would “get into too much trouble” in his neighborhood. It was during those summer months away from the Bay that Mcelligott learned first-hand about his family’s barbecue business. Each year, he’d spend time working for his uncle, who ran Womack’s BBQ for over 40 years. But it was Mcelligott’s grandpa who opened the place in 1979 after helping to launch one of San Francisco’s most iconic barbecue restaurants, \u003ca href=\"http://newfillmore.com/fillmore-classics/leon-was-the-king-of-barbecue/\">Leon’s, in the Fillmore District\u003c/a>.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Between learning how to prepare chicken from expert grill masters, picking out the right types of wood to burn to get that variety of layered, smoky flavors, marinating ribs all day, and also regularly interacting with customers, Mcelligott began to steep himself in the saucy world of barbecue—then eventually added his own flair to the fire.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Working in restaurants was a switch for Mcelligott, who had spent most of his youth playing baseball and other sports. He held onto hopes of going professional until he was diagnosed with Hodgkin’s lymphoma in 2012, forcing him to give up sports at age 23. After six months of chemotherapy, Mcelligott overcame his illness. Rather than being discouraged, he shifted toward a career in his other life’s passion: barbecue.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Mcelligott knew he wanted to do something positive for himself—and for his family and community—and after enrolling in Le Cordón Bleu at San Francisco, his hope of bringing a family restaurant to Oakland became a reality.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">At this point in our meal, I’d eaten through a delectable portion of mac and cheese, candied beans, a rack of soft ribs, more pulled pork, and everyone’s favorite, a quarter-pound of tender brisket. Between me and a small group of hungry friends, we couldn’t finish it all—which is impressive, considering the relatively low price we paid.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13896424\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13896424\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/RubyQ_Reuben-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/RubyQ_Reuben-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/RubyQ_Reuben-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/RubyQ_Reuben-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/RubyQ_Reuben-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/RubyQ_Reuben-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/RubyQ_Reuben-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/RubyQ_Reuben-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Decorations reflect Mcelligott’s love of sports, skating and hip hop. Rodriguez, his wife, was too busy to be photographed. \u003ccite>(Briana Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Mcelligott was energetic and upbeat after an entire day’s shift, and throughout our conversation, he was all smiles and laughs. His spirit is radiant and genuinely soulful, like the playfully-decorated walls of his restaurant and the creative family recipes he uses. “This is everything I love,” Mcelligott says. His kids interrupt us with jokes, and he picks up the smallest one. I feel like a longtime friend visiting his home.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Though it wasn’t easy to launch a restaurant amidst a pandemic, Mcelligott tells me, business has been going well, and he and Rodriguez don’t foresee any slow-down. With its mixture of original barbecue recipes, Mexican fusion, Southern hospitality and a vibrant Bay Area energy that reflects the spirit of the neighborhood, Ruby Q Smoke Fusion is more than a place to get your favorite half-rack of ribs and homemade peach cobbler. It’s a place where you will find East Oakland still sustaining itself, and where you know you’ll be welcomed no matter what time it is, even when there is no food left to serve that day because it’s already been eaten.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"https://rubyqsmokefusion.com/\">Ruby Q Smoke Fusion\u003c/a> is open at 954 Fruitvale Blvd. in Oakland Wednesday through Saturday, noon–8pm, and Sunday, 1–8pm.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class=\"utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__dropcapShortcode__dropcap\">I\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>f I’m being honest, the East Bay doesn’t have enough barbecue. There’s only a handful of small, family-owned joints around here—and I support them when I can. So, when a local friend told me about \u003ca href=\"https://rubyqsmokefusion.com/\">Ruby Q Smoke Fusion\u003c/a>, a new barbecue spot in East Oakland, I made sure to check it out. I was extra hyped when I found out that it was run by a young married couple from the area, Reuben Mcelligott and Edlyn Rodriguez.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“It’s called fusion for a reason. I mean, look at the neighborhood we’re at and who we serve,” Rodriguez says. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">She’s talking about Fruitvale, where you’ll find some of the \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/135813/5-food-trucks-that-put-regional-mexican-plates-on-the-map\">best taco trucks anywhere on the entire West Coast\u003c/a>. The daughter of Mexican immigrants from Jalisco, Rodriguez knows the inside of a kitchen, having learned from her mother. But Ruby Q doesn’t serve traditional Mexican fare. Instead, it’s a fusion of Rodriguez’s culinary heritage combined with her husband’s family trade: Southern-style smoked and grilled meats. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13896416\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-13896416 size-medium\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/RubyQ_barbecue-800x1200.jpg\" alt=\"Takeout containers of barbecue and mac and cheese on a picnic table.\" width=\"800\" height=\"1200\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/RubyQ_barbecue-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/RubyQ_barbecue-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/RubyQ_barbecue-160x240.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/RubyQ_barbecue-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/RubyQ_barbecue-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/RubyQ_barbecue-1365x2048.jpg 1365w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/RubyQ_barbecue-1920x2880.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/RubyQ_barbecue-scaled.jpg 1707w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ribs, brisket, and mac and cheese. \u003ccite>(Briana Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The restaurant opened in June 2020, at the height of the pandemic, but with Rodriguez and Mcelligott’s dedication to serving great food while representing their cultures, it has flourished in a much-needed way. Though he jokes that his name sounds “white” because of his Irish grandfather, Mcelligott is a millennial Black dude who was raised around the corner. He was a 90s kid who never fully fit into any box and enjoyed skating, sports and hip hop—all elements that are on display on the restaurant’s walls.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">More importantly, the space is a homage to Mcelligott’s mother’s family, who first started their barbecue business in Louisiana in the early 1900s, and whose influence can still be felt and tasted over a century later. “We use the family recipe from back then for our barbecue sauce. It’s something my family has been doing for as long as I know,” he explains. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Both Mcelligott and Rodriguez are proud of their family’s legacies, and together, they’ve launched a dynamic and affordable culinary outlet that reflects where each of them come from—in a city known for its eclectic spirit of diversity and newness. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class=\"utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__dropcapShortcode__dropcap\">S\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>o what exactly do American barbecue and Mexican food look like when they’re combined together? Try Ruby Q’s barbecue brisket quesadilla—a soft, warm and decadently cheesy mixture of avocado, queso Mexicano, pico de gallo and, of course, a mound of lightly crisped, not-too-tangy brisket inside the gooey middle. You get a taste of both cultures in each mouthful. As a Mexican American from the Bay, I can honestly say it’s the most flavorful (and filling) quesadilla I’ve ever eaten. Sorry, abuelita. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13896418\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13896418\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/RubyQ_quesadilla-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"A fried quesadilla topped with sour cream, guacamole, and pico de gallo.\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/RubyQ_quesadilla-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/RubyQ_quesadilla-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/RubyQ_quesadilla-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/RubyQ_quesadilla-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/RubyQ_quesadilla-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/RubyQ_quesadilla-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/RubyQ_quesadilla-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The barbecue brisket quesadilla is one of the highlights. \u003ccite>(Briana Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">A single quesadilla could easily be your entire meal. But this is barbecue, so you’ll have to toss in a side of pulled pork nachos to go with that. Though I’ve eaten nacho remixes like this before, this version was on another level: the perfect combination of fresh tortilla chips, homemade guacamole, cheese, and juicy, fall-apart-on-your-fork pork that has been slow-cooked for hours. If that’s not your style, try the Louisiana gumbo with sausage that is “smoked while you sleep”—a nod to Mcelligott’s Cajun roots—which isn’t commonly offered in traditional barbecue settings. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>However, the Ruby Q experience goes beyond its culinary heritage. The entire time I was there, the spot was hella active with locals. It’s a homey environment where the entire neighborhood converges, literally, to get a taste. Located at the chaotic intersection of Fruitvale Avenue and San Leandro Street, the restaurant is tucked in between an industrial railroad crossing, a busy highway overpass, a bustling BART station, and two Mexican restaurants. It’s surprisingly easy to miss. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">But if you close your eyes and inhale, you’ll only smell one thing: racks of meat being smoked daily. Follow that scent, and you’ll see why everyone is lining up.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">During my recent weeknight visit, I noticed an Asian family, a group of middle-aged Black women, a Mexican couple, teenage Pacific Islanders, and a squad of white city cowboys wearing their hats, boots and belt buckles. Everyone was enjoying the warm backdoor patio and the Mexican music from the bar next door, all while grubbing on group-sized portions of barbecued goodness. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">It was so busy that I felt guilty for interrupting the husband-and-wife team to ask questions, since they were the sole employees running the show. They even had two of their kids with them that day, who were reading and had built a fort in the corner. But like true Bay Area hustlers, the family made it look as effortless as a Steph Curry three-pointer in the 4th quarter. That’s because for Mcelligott, struggle and sacrifice are nothing new.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“I put everything into this. Did you see the billboard on 880 in front of the Coliseum? I put that up because I wanted everyone in my family to see what I was doing for us,” he says, referencing the massive advertisement he purchased when Ruby Q first opened. “Everybody can see that.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13896428\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13896428\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/RubyQ_window-800x533.jpg\" alt='Writing in the restaurant window reads, \"Seafood Gumbo,\" \"Loaded Nachos,\" \"Smoked While You Sleep,\" \"BBQ,\" and \"Open Patio.\"' width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/RubyQ_window-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/RubyQ_window-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/RubyQ_window-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/RubyQ_window-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/RubyQ_window-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/RubyQ_window-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/RubyQ_window-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The restaurant’s window advertises barbecue “smoked while you sleep.” \u003ccite>(Briana Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class=\"utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__dropcapShortcode__dropcap\">M\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>celligott’s vision began when he was a teenager growing up in East Oakland. His parents would send him to stay with his relatives in South Lake Tahoe every summer because he would “get into too much trouble” in his neighborhood. It was during those summer months away from the Bay that Mcelligott learned first-hand about his family’s barbecue business. Each year, he’d spend time working for his uncle, who ran Womack’s BBQ for over 40 years. But it was Mcelligott’s grandpa who opened the place in 1979 after helping to launch one of San Francisco’s most iconic barbecue restaurants, \u003ca href=\"http://newfillmore.com/fillmore-classics/leon-was-the-king-of-barbecue/\">Leon’s, in the Fillmore District\u003c/a>.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Between learning how to prepare chicken from expert grill masters, picking out the right types of wood to burn to get that variety of layered, smoky flavors, marinating ribs all day, and also regularly interacting with customers, Mcelligott began to steep himself in the saucy world of barbecue—then eventually added his own flair to the fire.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Working in restaurants was a switch for Mcelligott, who had spent most of his youth playing baseball and other sports. He held onto hopes of going professional until he was diagnosed with Hodgkin’s lymphoma in 2012, forcing him to give up sports at age 23. After six months of chemotherapy, Mcelligott overcame his illness. Rather than being discouraged, he shifted toward a career in his other life’s passion: barbecue.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Mcelligott knew he wanted to do something positive for himself—and for his family and community—and after enrolling in Le Cordón Bleu at San Francisco, his hope of bringing a family restaurant to Oakland became a reality.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">At this point in our meal, I’d eaten through a delectable portion of mac and cheese, candied beans, a rack of soft ribs, more pulled pork, and everyone’s favorite, a quarter-pound of tender brisket. Between me and a small group of hungry friends, we couldn’t finish it all—which is impressive, considering the relatively low price we paid.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13896424\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13896424\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/RubyQ_Reuben-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/RubyQ_Reuben-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/RubyQ_Reuben-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/RubyQ_Reuben-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/RubyQ_Reuben-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/RubyQ_Reuben-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/RubyQ_Reuben-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/RubyQ_Reuben-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Decorations reflect Mcelligott’s love of sports, skating and hip hop. Rodriguez, his wife, was too busy to be photographed. \u003ccite>(Briana Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Mcelligott was energetic and upbeat after an entire day’s shift, and throughout our conversation, he was all smiles and laughs. His spirit is radiant and genuinely soulful, like the playfully-decorated walls of his restaurant and the creative family recipes he uses. “This is everything I love,” Mcelligott says. His kids interrupt us with jokes, and he picks up the smallest one. I feel like a longtime friend visiting his home.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Though it wasn’t easy to launch a restaurant amidst a pandemic, Mcelligott tells me, business has been going well, and he and Rodriguez don’t foresee any slow-down. With its mixture of original barbecue recipes, Mexican fusion, Southern hospitality and a vibrant Bay Area energy that reflects the spirit of the neighborhood, Ruby Q Smoke Fusion is more than a place to get your favorite half-rack of ribs and homemade peach cobbler. It’s a place where you will find East Oakland still sustaining itself, and where you know you’ll be welcomed no matter what time it is, even when there is no food left to serve that day because it’s already been eaten.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"https://rubyqsmokefusion.com/\">Ruby Q Smoke Fusion\u003c/a> is open at 954 Fruitvale Blvd. in Oakland Wednesday through Saturday, noon–8pm, and Sunday, 1–8pm.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "Oakland’s Vegan Barbecue Sensation Is Already Blowing Up in SF",
"headTitle": "Oakland’s Vegan Barbecue Sensation Is Already Blowing Up in SF | KQED",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Ever since it exploded onto the local dining scene in 2019, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://veganmob.biz/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Vegan Mob\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> has been one of the most popular restaurants in Oakland—a bright-green, graffiti-bedecked retro barbecue joint known for its rib tips, brisket-stuffed burritos and garlic noodles. Naturally, everything on the menu is vegan.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Now, rapper-turned-chef Toriano Gordon (a.k.a. \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://soundcloud.com/don-toriano\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Don Toriano\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">) is bringing his meat-free adaptations of familiar soul food and barbecue dishes to San Francisco. Vegan Mob’s new food truck is posting up in the Mission six days a week as part of an all-vegan street food hub Gordon has helped set up at 701 Valencia Street—the \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/citystationsf/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">City Station SF\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> lot, which was already a prime destination for vegan food fans when the popular Filipino-American food truck \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2020/11/6/21551481/senor-sisig-vegano-vegan-food-truck-filipino-burrito-mission-sf\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Señor Sisig set up its new vegan spinoff, Señor Sisig Vegano, there\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Now that the two trucks have teamed up, they’ve created what might be the hottest block on the Bay Area’s vegan food circuit. During Vegan Mob’s March 21 San Francisco debut, Gordon says, the line of customers wrapped all the way around the corner, all day long—notwithstanding the fact that their block on Valencia Street is about three times the length of a typical city block. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Business has stayed about as strong ever since. “We work together,” Gordon says of his collaboration with Señor Sisig co-owner Evan Kidera—a longtime friend from their days in the Bay Area rap scene. And the pair is bringing in other food trucks for guest appearances as well. This past Friday, for instance, Al Papi Pastor, the \u003ca href=\"http://www.instagram.com/p/CNJvkEjsldE/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">popular Mexico City-style taco truck\u003c/a>, was on hand to dish out a special all-vegan menu: burritos stuffed with nopales and jackfruit al pastor.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">For Gordon, launching the food truck was simply the next logical step for his growing business, once he convinced Kidera to sell him one of Señor Sisig’s old trucks. (“I begged him,” Gordon says.) The truck serves a slightly streamlined version of Vegan Mob’s restaurant menu—basically its 10 top sellers, plus Gordon’s newest creation: garlic noodles inspired by his lifelong love of Vietnamese institutions like Thanh Long and Crustacean. Vegan Mob’s garlic noodles don’t have fish sauce, and they’re made with vegan butter and vegan cheese, but Gordon says the noodles have been a runaway hit from the start—especially among his Black customers. “Black people who don’t mess with vegan food come and eat those noodles,” he says. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/CNQTyEPjPSH/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Vegan Mob is part of \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2021/1/8/22219689/senor-sisig-vegano-vegan-oakland-open-spice-monkey\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">a new wave of popular, next-generation vegan food businesses\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> in the Bay Area that includes Señor Sisig Vegano, Lion Dance Cafe, Vegan Hood Chefs and Malibu’s Burgers. They all boast large social media followings (Vegan Mob, for instance, has more than 73,000 followers on \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/officialveganmob/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Instagram\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">) and a diverse customer base. They’re all owned and operated by people of color. And they all have a certain cool factor that’s reflected in how successful they’ve been, even beyond the deliciousness of the food itself. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Gordon credits the rapper Nipsey Hussle, \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13854043/when-nipsey-hussle-brought-his-marathon-mindset-to-oakland\">who was shot and killed almost exactly two years ago\u003c/a>, for helping to raise awareness of—and establishing a kind of “street cred” for—the vegan lifestyle. And Gordon believes Vegan Mob has played a large part in that as well. “I really am from the streets,” he says, noting that his father was in prison for 27 years, and that he himself nearly died of septic shock after mixing morphine, alcohol and weed.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">“I feel like God kept me on earth for a reason,” Gordon says. “I changed my life to come to school, to become this. To show the Black community and communities of color that it’s cool to be healthy—to be a role model to the ones younger than me, that you can have a business like this.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">“My following is a lot of non-vegans who are African American, Latino, Filipino, and Pacific Islander. They come up to me and say, ‘Hey, your food is making me go vegan.’” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/CMRP37csjZG/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">As excited as he is about his newfound success in the city, Gordon says he feels hurt that some customers have accused him of abandoning Oakland for brighter lights on the other side of the Bay. Notwithstanding the fact that he’s \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">from \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">San Francisco, the Fillmore native says, “I’m not going nowhere. We’re expanding, we’re not leaving.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">The problem is that as much as he loves his current location in Oakland at the former Kwik-Way, near the shores of Lake Merritt, the building’s long-term future is very much an open question. For years now, the building has been slated to be torn down and turned into a mixed-use retail facility or, more recently, an \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://blog.sfgate.com/inoakland/2019/09/20/iconic-kwik-way-drive-in-site-to-become-affordable-housing-in-grand-lake-neighborhood/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">affordable housing complex\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">. Time and time again, those plans have gotten waylaid: Originally, Gordon says, Vegan Mob was supposed to vacate the building this month, but the landlords now say he can stay until this coming January.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">So, Gordon is already plotting his next moves: In addition to a new \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://sj.veganmob.biz/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">virtual kitchen operation that he’s set up in San Jose, for pickup and delivery only\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">, Gordon is currently in talks with his friend and mentor GW Chew about taking over the space currently occupied by Chew’s own vegan soul food restaurant, the \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/checkplease/19999/check-please-bay-area-kids-review-antipastos-the-veg-hub-cocos-ramen\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Veg Hub\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">, in Oakland’s Dimond district. If it works out, Gordon would move Vegan Mob there, joining a cluster of popular restaurants owned by people of color, including the new Puerto Rican spot La Perla, the soul food restaurant Southern Cafe, and Dimond Slice Pizza—all restaurants that are helping to turn the neighborhood into a cool food hub while still preserving Oakland’s authentic, homegrown culture, Gordon says.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">“I’m convinced if I left Oakland, God would punish me,” Gordon says, noting that Oakland is where Vegan Mob had its first successes. “That would literally be forgetting where I came from.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Vegan Mob’s San Francisco food truck operates Tuesday through Saturday, 5pm–9pm, and Sunday, 11am–5pm; the \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://sj.veganmob.biz/\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">San Jose cloud kitchen\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> operation offers takeout and delivery Tuesday through Sunday, 11am–9pm. For updates, follow Vegan Mob on \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/officialveganmob/\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Instagram\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Vegan Mob, rapper-turned-chef Toriano Gordon’s hit restaurant, joins a bustling new vegan street food hub in the Mission.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Ever since it exploded onto the local dining scene in 2019, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://veganmob.biz/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Vegan Mob\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> has been one of the most popular restaurants in Oakland—a bright-green, graffiti-bedecked retro barbecue joint known for its rib tips, brisket-stuffed burritos and garlic noodles. Naturally, everything on the menu is vegan.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Now, rapper-turned-chef Toriano Gordon (a.k.a. \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://soundcloud.com/don-toriano\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Don Toriano\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">) is bringing his meat-free adaptations of familiar soul food and barbecue dishes to San Francisco. Vegan Mob’s new food truck is posting up in the Mission six days a week as part of an all-vegan street food hub Gordon has helped set up at 701 Valencia Street—the \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/citystationsf/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">City Station SF\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> lot, which was already a prime destination for vegan food fans when the popular Filipino-American food truck \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2020/11/6/21551481/senor-sisig-vegano-vegan-food-truck-filipino-burrito-mission-sf\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Señor Sisig set up its new vegan spinoff, Señor Sisig Vegano, there\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Now that the two trucks have teamed up, they’ve created what might be the hottest block on the Bay Area’s vegan food circuit. During Vegan Mob’s March 21 San Francisco debut, Gordon says, the line of customers wrapped all the way around the corner, all day long—notwithstanding the fact that their block on Valencia Street is about three times the length of a typical city block. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Business has stayed about as strong ever since. “We work together,” Gordon says of his collaboration with Señor Sisig co-owner Evan Kidera—a longtime friend from their days in the Bay Area rap scene. And the pair is bringing in other food trucks for guest appearances as well. This past Friday, for instance, Al Papi Pastor, the \u003ca href=\"http://www.instagram.com/p/CNJvkEjsldE/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">popular Mexico City-style taco truck\u003c/a>, was on hand to dish out a special all-vegan menu: burritos stuffed with nopales and jackfruit al pastor.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">For Gordon, launching the food truck was simply the next logical step for his growing business, once he convinced Kidera to sell him one of Señor Sisig’s old trucks. (“I begged him,” Gordon says.) The truck serves a slightly streamlined version of Vegan Mob’s restaurant menu—basically its 10 top sellers, plus Gordon’s newest creation: garlic noodles inspired by his lifelong love of Vietnamese institutions like Thanh Long and Crustacean. Vegan Mob’s garlic noodles don’t have fish sauce, and they’re made with vegan butter and vegan cheese, but Gordon says the noodles have been a runaway hit from the start—especially among his Black customers. “Black people who don’t mess with vegan food come and eat those noodles,” he says. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Vegan Mob is part of \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2021/1/8/22219689/senor-sisig-vegano-vegan-oakland-open-spice-monkey\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">a new wave of popular, next-generation vegan food businesses\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> in the Bay Area that includes Señor Sisig Vegano, Lion Dance Cafe, Vegan Hood Chefs and Malibu’s Burgers. They all boast large social media followings (Vegan Mob, for instance, has more than 73,000 followers on \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/officialveganmob/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Instagram\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">) and a diverse customer base. They’re all owned and operated by people of color. And they all have a certain cool factor that’s reflected in how successful they’ve been, even beyond the deliciousness of the food itself. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Gordon credits the rapper Nipsey Hussle, \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13854043/when-nipsey-hussle-brought-his-marathon-mindset-to-oakland\">who was shot and killed almost exactly two years ago\u003c/a>, for helping to raise awareness of—and establishing a kind of “street cred” for—the vegan lifestyle. And Gordon believes Vegan Mob has played a large part in that as well. “I really am from the streets,” he says, noting that his father was in prison for 27 years, and that he himself nearly died of septic shock after mixing morphine, alcohol and weed.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">“I feel like God kept me on earth for a reason,” Gordon says. “I changed my life to come to school, to become this. To show the Black community and communities of color that it’s cool to be healthy—to be a role model to the ones younger than me, that you can have a business like this.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">“My following is a lot of non-vegans who are African American, Latino, Filipino, and Pacific Islander. They come up to me and say, ‘Hey, your food is making me go vegan.’” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">As excited as he is about his newfound success in the city, Gordon says he feels hurt that some customers have accused him of abandoning Oakland for brighter lights on the other side of the Bay. Notwithstanding the fact that he’s \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">from \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">San Francisco, the Fillmore native says, “I’m not going nowhere. We’re expanding, we’re not leaving.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">The problem is that as much as he loves his current location in Oakland at the former Kwik-Way, near the shores of Lake Merritt, the building’s long-term future is very much an open question. For years now, the building has been slated to be torn down and turned into a mixed-use retail facility or, more recently, an \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://blog.sfgate.com/inoakland/2019/09/20/iconic-kwik-way-drive-in-site-to-become-affordable-housing-in-grand-lake-neighborhood/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">affordable housing complex\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">. Time and time again, those plans have gotten waylaid: Originally, Gordon says, Vegan Mob was supposed to vacate the building this month, but the landlords now say he can stay until this coming January.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">So, Gordon is already plotting his next moves: In addition to a new \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://sj.veganmob.biz/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">virtual kitchen operation that he’s set up in San Jose, for pickup and delivery only\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">, Gordon is currently in talks with his friend and mentor GW Chew about taking over the space currently occupied by Chew’s own vegan soul food restaurant, the \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/checkplease/19999/check-please-bay-area-kids-review-antipastos-the-veg-hub-cocos-ramen\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Veg Hub\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">, in Oakland’s Dimond district. If it works out, Gordon would move Vegan Mob there, joining a cluster of popular restaurants owned by people of color, including the new Puerto Rican spot La Perla, the soul food restaurant Southern Cafe, and Dimond Slice Pizza—all restaurants that are helping to turn the neighborhood into a cool food hub while still preserving Oakland’s authentic, homegrown culture, Gordon says.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">“I’m convinced if I left Oakland, God would punish me,” Gordon says, noting that Oakland is where Vegan Mob had its first successes. “That would literally be forgetting where I came from.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Vegan Mob’s San Francisco food truck operates Tuesday through Saturday, 5pm–9pm, and Sunday, 11am–5pm; the \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://sj.veganmob.biz/\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">San Jose cloud kitchen\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> operation offers takeout and delivery Tuesday through Sunday, 11am–9pm. For updates, follow Vegan Mob on \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/officialveganmob/\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Instagram\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "Flint’s, an Icon of Oakland Barbecue, Plots Return to Original Location",
"headTitle": "Flint’s, an Icon of Oakland Barbecue, Plots Return to Original Location | KQED",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The dark red barbecue sauce at \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/flintsbarbecue/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Flint’s Barbecue\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> was deep in flavor, never too sweet. The house-made links were coarse-ground to maximize sauce absorption—the best around, according to the restaurant’s loyal fans. And by the time the restaurant closed the last of its three locations in Oakland in 2010, its legend was secure: To this day, there is no shortage of old-timers who insist that Flint’s was, without question, the greatest of all time, especially during the restaurant’s heyday in the 1970s and ’80s.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Then it was gone for good—until two years ago, that is, when Crystal Martin, the granddaughter of founder Willie Flintroy, resurrected the Flint’s name with a \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://eastbayexpress.com/flints-bbq-is-coming-back-to-the-town-1/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">series of pop-ups\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> featuring all of the original recipes. Now, Martin says she’s one step closer to realizing her ultimate dream: to reopen Flint’s as a full-fledged restaurant at one of its original locations. Specifically, she’s in negotiations to lease the old Flint’s location at 3114 San Pablo Ave. in West Oakland—the same restaurant where she helped out as a kid, peeling potatoes for the potato salad in the prep kitchen area in back. (“That’s all I could do,” Martin recalls.) \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13894445\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13894445\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/flints_crystalmartin.crop_.jpg\" alt=\"Crystal Martin stands inside her Alameda commercial kitchen space during one of her Flint's pop-ups.\" width=\"640\" height=\"908\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/flints_crystalmartin.crop_.jpg 640w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/flints_crystalmartin.crop_-160x227.jpg 160w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Crystal Martin at her Alameda commercial kitchen space during one of her Flint’s pop-ups. \u003ccite>(HMTWNHERO)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The building has sat empty since that particular Flint’s closed in the late ’90s. At first, the whole point of the pop-ups was to build up enough capital to try to buy the place outright, Martin says. Instead, someone else recently bought the building, and the new owner reached out to Martin to see if she’d be interested in leasing the space—the first time that’s been a viable option since the restaurant closed.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">There’s still a long way to go, however, before a reborn Flint’s restaurant becomes a reality. Martin says that in order to purchase all of the necessary kitchen equipment and to cover the first few months of rent while she gets the business off the ground, she needs to raise at least $75,000 to $100,000. She’s launched a \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.gofundme.com/f/help-us-move-back-to-san-pablo\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">GoFundMe campaign\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. Her hope is that the legion of folks who are nostalgic for Flint’s glory years will rally together to support the effort.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Still, the very prospect of bringing Flint’s back to one of its original homes has Martin feeling excited and hopeful. When she did a walkthrough a couple of weeks ago, it was the first time she’d been back in the space since the San Pablo Avenue location closed. As soon as she walked in the door, Martin says, she was flooded with memories of the time she spent there as a kid. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Martin’s older sister, Lynette Martin, worked at the restaurant as a high school student in the late ’70s. “The first thing I remembered was looking at the brick oven,” she says. “That brought back a lot of memories.” The San Pablo Avenue location was a very plainly decorated takeout-only restaurant, Lynette recalls. The only furniture, really, was a big cooler where they kept the soda and a jukebox that was always on, playing whatever R&B songs were popular at the time.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">David Peters, a long-time resident of West Oakland’s Hoover-Foster neighborhood, grew up just around the corner from the San Pablo Avenue location and was a regular customer from the time it first opened in the early ’70s, often drawing long lines that wrapped around the block. (The very first Flint’s \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://localwiki.org/oakland/Flint%27s_Bar-B-Q\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">opened on East 14th Street in 1968\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">.) “My enduring memory is the ‘thwack-thwack-thwack-thwack’ — is them hitting the cleavers, chopping up the ribs with the cleavers on the cutting boards. That’s the enduring auditory memory of Flint’s,” Peters says.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13894446\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13894446\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/FlintSlinks.Crop_.jpg\" alt=\"Two trays full of Flint's house-made links.\" width=\"800\" height=\"646\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/FlintSlinks.Crop_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/FlintSlinks.Crop_-160x129.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/FlintSlinks.Crop_-768x620.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The coarse-ground links were one of Flint’s signature items. \u003ccite>(Flint's Barbecue)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">According to Peters, what set Flint’s apart were those coarse-ground links, which he never found anywhere else, and of course that barbecue sauce, which he says was “just so delicious”: \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“You’d get it on your potato salad. You’d end up with a pool of it in their styrofoam to-go thing. You’d sop it up with bread. If I could have drank the stuff, it would have been fine.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">These days, Peters is the project director for a forthcoming “\u003ca href=\"https://walk.ouroakland.net/tour/black-liberation-1/\">Black Liberation Walking Tour\u003c/a>” of the Hoover-Foster neighborhood—a guided walk that aims to celebrate the history, culture, and art of that particular stretch of West Oakland. One of the first stops on the tour that’s already been planned? A visit to the old Flint’s, of course.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Peters believes the restaurant’s return would mark an important turning point for the neighborhood, which in his lifetime has gone from having just four Black families living on the block to being a predominantly Black neighborhood to now, once again, only having four Black families on the block. Since Flint’s departure in the ’90s, the once-vital commercial strip on that stretch of San Pablo Avenue has never been the same.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“[The restaurant] was a source of pride for the neighborhood,” Peters says of Flint’s. “People knew where we lived. It was affirming to see this thriving Black business do so well.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In the meantime, nostalgic barbecue lovers looking to get a taste of that classic Flint’s flavor will have to content themselves with Martin’s pop-ups for now, starting with a sauce sale in late April to mark the \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/CMi8B6Bs_TH/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">two-year anniversary of her Flint’s comeback tour\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. The next full-on barbecue pop-up will probably take place sometime over the summer. And in June, Martin will host the first pop-up for her new Creole soul food business, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/ladyflintscreolesoul/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Lady Flint’s Creole Soul\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. All of the events will be held out of Martin’s commercial kitchen at 2400 Monarch St. in Alameda.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">But if all goes well, it’s possible that by early next year, Flint’s—in all its saucy glory—will rise again.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The dark red barbecue sauce at \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/flintsbarbecue/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Flint’s Barbecue\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> was deep in flavor, never too sweet. The house-made links were coarse-ground to maximize sauce absorption—the best around, according to the restaurant’s loyal fans. And by the time the restaurant closed the last of its three locations in Oakland in 2010, its legend was secure: To this day, there is no shortage of old-timers who insist that Flint’s was, without question, the greatest of all time, especially during the restaurant’s heyday in the 1970s and ’80s.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Then it was gone for good—until two years ago, that is, when Crystal Martin, the granddaughter of founder Willie Flintroy, resurrected the Flint’s name with a \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://eastbayexpress.com/flints-bbq-is-coming-back-to-the-town-1/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">series of pop-ups\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> featuring all of the original recipes. Now, Martin says she’s one step closer to realizing her ultimate dream: to reopen Flint’s as a full-fledged restaurant at one of its original locations. Specifically, she’s in negotiations to lease the old Flint’s location at 3114 San Pablo Ave. in West Oakland—the same restaurant where she helped out as a kid, peeling potatoes for the potato salad in the prep kitchen area in back. (“That’s all I could do,” Martin recalls.) \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13894445\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13894445\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/flints_crystalmartin.crop_.jpg\" alt=\"Crystal Martin stands inside her Alameda commercial kitchen space during one of her Flint's pop-ups.\" width=\"640\" height=\"908\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/flints_crystalmartin.crop_.jpg 640w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/flints_crystalmartin.crop_-160x227.jpg 160w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Crystal Martin at her Alameda commercial kitchen space during one of her Flint’s pop-ups. \u003ccite>(HMTWNHERO)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The building has sat empty since that particular Flint’s closed in the late ’90s. At first, the whole point of the pop-ups was to build up enough capital to try to buy the place outright, Martin says. Instead, someone else recently bought the building, and the new owner reached out to Martin to see if she’d be interested in leasing the space—the first time that’s been a viable option since the restaurant closed.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">There’s still a long way to go, however, before a reborn Flint’s restaurant becomes a reality. Martin says that in order to purchase all of the necessary kitchen equipment and to cover the first few months of rent while she gets the business off the ground, she needs to raise at least $75,000 to $100,000. She’s launched a \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.gofundme.com/f/help-us-move-back-to-san-pablo\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">GoFundMe campaign\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. Her hope is that the legion of folks who are nostalgic for Flint’s glory years will rally together to support the effort.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Still, the very prospect of bringing Flint’s back to one of its original homes has Martin feeling excited and hopeful. When she did a walkthrough a couple of weeks ago, it was the first time she’d been back in the space since the San Pablo Avenue location closed. As soon as she walked in the door, Martin says, she was flooded with memories of the time she spent there as a kid. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Martin’s older sister, Lynette Martin, worked at the restaurant as a high school student in the late ’70s. “The first thing I remembered was looking at the brick oven,” she says. “That brought back a lot of memories.” The San Pablo Avenue location was a very plainly decorated takeout-only restaurant, Lynette recalls. The only furniture, really, was a big cooler where they kept the soda and a jukebox that was always on, playing whatever R&B songs were popular at the time.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">David Peters, a long-time resident of West Oakland’s Hoover-Foster neighborhood, grew up just around the corner from the San Pablo Avenue location and was a regular customer from the time it first opened in the early ’70s, often drawing long lines that wrapped around the block. (The very first Flint’s \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://localwiki.org/oakland/Flint%27s_Bar-B-Q\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">opened on East 14th Street in 1968\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">.) “My enduring memory is the ‘thwack-thwack-thwack-thwack’ — is them hitting the cleavers, chopping up the ribs with the cleavers on the cutting boards. That’s the enduring auditory memory of Flint’s,” Peters says.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13894446\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13894446\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/FlintSlinks.Crop_.jpg\" alt=\"Two trays full of Flint's house-made links.\" width=\"800\" height=\"646\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/FlintSlinks.Crop_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/FlintSlinks.Crop_-160x129.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/FlintSlinks.Crop_-768x620.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The coarse-ground links were one of Flint’s signature items. \u003ccite>(Flint's Barbecue)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">According to Peters, what set Flint’s apart were those coarse-ground links, which he never found anywhere else, and of course that barbecue sauce, which he says was “just so delicious”: \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“You’d get it on your potato salad. You’d end up with a pool of it in their styrofoam to-go thing. You’d sop it up with bread. If I could have drank the stuff, it would have been fine.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">These days, Peters is the project director for a forthcoming “\u003ca href=\"https://walk.ouroakland.net/tour/black-liberation-1/\">Black Liberation Walking Tour\u003c/a>” of the Hoover-Foster neighborhood—a guided walk that aims to celebrate the history, culture, and art of that particular stretch of West Oakland. One of the first stops on the tour that’s already been planned? A visit to the old Flint’s, of course.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Peters believes the restaurant’s return would mark an important turning point for the neighborhood, which in his lifetime has gone from having just four Black families living on the block to being a predominantly Black neighborhood to now, once again, only having four Black families on the block. Since Flint’s departure in the ’90s, the once-vital commercial strip on that stretch of San Pablo Avenue has never been the same.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“[The restaurant] was a source of pride for the neighborhood,” Peters says of Flint’s. “People knew where we lived. It was affirming to see this thriving Black business do so well.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In the meantime, nostalgic barbecue lovers looking to get a taste of that classic Flint’s flavor will have to content themselves with Martin’s pop-ups for now, starting with a sauce sale in late April to mark the \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/CMi8B6Bs_TH/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">two-year anniversary of her Flint’s comeback tour\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. The next full-on barbecue pop-up will probably take place sometime over the summer. And in June, Martin will host the first pop-up for her new Creole soul food business, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/ladyflintscreolesoul/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Lady Flint’s Creole Soul\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. All of the events will be held out of Martin’s commercial kitchen at 2400 Monarch St. in Alameda.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">But if all goes well, it’s possible that by early next year, Flint’s—in all its saucy glory—will rise again.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"info": "What kind of no sabo word is Hyphenación? For us, it’s about living within a hyphenation. Like being a third-gen Mexican-American from the Texas border now living that Bay Area Chicano life. Like Xorje! Each week we bring together a couple of hyphenated Latinos to talk all about personal life choices: family, careers, relationships, belonging … everything is on the table. ",
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"info": "The Political Mind of Jerry Brown brings listeners the wisdom of the former Governor, Mayor, and presidential candidate. Scott Shafer interviewed Brown for more than 40 hours, covering the former governor's life and half-century in the political game – and Brown has some lessons he'd like to share. ",
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"info": "The MindShift podcast explores the innovations in education that are shaping how kids learn. Hosts Ki Sung and Katrina Schwartz introduce listeners to educators, researchers, parents and students who are developing effective ways to improve how kids learn. We cover topics like how fed-up administrators are developing surprising tactics to deal with classroom disruptions; how listening to podcasts are helping kids develop reading skills; the consequences of overparenting; and why interdisciplinary learning can engage students on all ends of the traditional achievement spectrum. This podcast is part of the MindShift education site, a division of KQED News. KQED is an NPR/PBS member station based in San Francisco. You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>",
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"info": "For decades, the process for how police police themselves has been inconsistent – if not opaque. In some states, like California, these proceedings were completely hidden. After a new police transparency law unsealed scores of internal affairs files, our reporters set out to examine these cases and the shadow world of police discipline. On Our Watch brings listeners into the rooms where officers are questioned and witnesses are interrogated to find out who this system is really protecting. Is it the officers, or the public they've sworn to serve?",
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"info": "Political Breakdown is a new series that explores the political intersection of California and the nation. Each week hosts Scott Shafer and Marisa Lagos are joined with a new special guest to unpack politics -- with personality — and offer an insider’s glimpse at how politics happens.",
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"possible": {
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"info": "Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.",
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"radiolab": {
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},
"rightnowish": {
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"title": "Rightnowish",
"tagline": "Art is where you find it",
"info": "Rightnowish digs into life in the Bay Area right now… ish. Journalist Pendarvis Harshaw takes us to galleries painted on the sides of liquor stores in West Oakland. We'll dance in warehouses in the Bayview, make smoothies with kids in South Berkeley, and listen to classical music in a 1984 Cutlass Supreme in Richmond. Every week, Pen talks to movers and shakers about how the Bay Area shapes what they create, and how they shape the place we call home.",
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"info": "The Snap Judgment radio show and podcast mixes real stories with killer beats to produce cinematic, dramatic radio. Snap's musical brand of storytelling dares listeners to see the world through the eyes of another. This is storytelling... with a BEAT!! Snap first aired on public radio stations nationwide in July 2010. Today, Snap Judgment airs on over 450 public radio stations and is brought to the airwaves by KQED & PRX.",
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"soldout": {
"id": "soldout",
"title": "SOLD OUT: Rethinking Housing in America",
"tagline": "A new future for housing",
"info": "Sold Out: Rethinking Housing in America",
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