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"content": "\u003cp>To prepare for Eastlake Little Saigon’s big Mid-Autumn Festival celebration, the nonprofit Good Good Eatz and the Oakland Vietnamese Chamber of Commerce are distributing 2,000 colorful paper lanterns to four local schools so that the students can paint and decorate them. On Sept. 18, the lanterns will light up dozens of restaurants around Eastlake, acting as beacons to draw customers toward delicious pho and banh mi at neighborhood standards like Pho Vy, Pho Mekong and Cam Huong.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Continuing an \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13900641/pokemon-go-little-saigon-oakland-vietnamese-food\">ongoing cross-promotion with Pokémon Go developer Niantic\u003c/a>, many of the restaurants and markets will be designated as Pokéstops, where players of the augmented reality game can accrue power-ups. In further keeping with the Vietnamese emphasis of Mid-Autumn Festival as a children’s holiday—like Halloween for Americans, Good Good Eatz co-founder Trinh Banh explains—kids will be able to go around and collect miniature mooncakes and other goodies from many of the participating merchants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This will be a masked event, and COVID vaccination and testing will be available at Clinton Park.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Eastlake Little Saigon’s Mid-Autumn Festival celebration will take place on Sept. 18, noon–5pm at Clinton Park in Oakland. \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/CTsCJRmJA9C/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Details here.\u003c/a>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>To prepare for Eastlake Little Saigon’s big Mid-Autumn Festival celebration, the nonprofit Good Good Eatz and the Oakland Vietnamese Chamber of Commerce are distributing 2,000 colorful paper lanterns to four local schools so that the students can paint and decorate them. On Sept. 18, the lanterns will light up dozens of restaurants around Eastlake, acting as beacons to draw customers toward delicious pho and banh mi at neighborhood standards like Pho Vy, Pho Mekong and Cam Huong.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Continuing an \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13900641/pokemon-go-little-saigon-oakland-vietnamese-food\">ongoing cross-promotion with Pokémon Go developer Niantic\u003c/a>, many of the restaurants and markets will be designated as Pokéstops, where players of the augmented reality game can accrue power-ups. In further keeping with the Vietnamese emphasis of Mid-Autumn Festival as a children’s holiday—like Halloween for Americans, Good Good Eatz co-founder Trinh Banh explains—kids will be able to go around and collect miniature mooncakes and other goodies from many of the participating merchants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This will be a masked event, and COVID vaccination and testing will be available at Clinton Park.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Eastlake Little Saigon’s Mid-Autumn Festival celebration will take place on Sept. 18, noon–5pm at Clinton Park in Oakland. \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/CTsCJRmJA9C/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Details here.\u003c/a>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"title": "Cult Favorite Taiwanese Pop-Up Lands a Standalone Restaurant in Emeryville",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">When Angie Lin and Tony Tung first broke into the Bay Area’s burgeoning brewery-based pop-up scene about three years ago, all the cool craft breweries were slinging burgers or tacos or nachos. No one seemed to be repping what they believed to be an equally transcendent pairing: craft beer and handmade, “craft” dumplings. \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/goodtoeatdumplings/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Good-to-Eat Dumplings\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> stepped in to fill the void.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Eventually, the wife-and-wife duo settled into a permanent gig popping up out of the kitchen at \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/originalpattern/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Original Pattern Brewing\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, in Jack London Square, and slowly built up an avid cult following for its distinctly Taiwanese style of dumplings and bao, which also showcased fresh Northern California produce. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Now, they will have a standalone restaurant of their own. Opening toward the end of 2021 in the former Yuzu Ramen & Broffee location on 65th Street in Emeryville, the new Good-to-Eat Dumplings will be one of a small number of full-fledged Taiwanese restaurants in the Oakland and Berkeley area—one of the only places, in fact, where diners will be able to sit down for a family-style Taiwanese meal.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13901990\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13901990\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/GTEDumplings_potstickers-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"Three long, well-browned potsticker dumplings on a plate.\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/GTEDumplings_potstickers-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/GTEDumplings_potstickers-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/GTEDumplings_potstickers-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/GTEDumplings_potstickers-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/GTEDumplings_potstickers-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/GTEDumplings_potstickers-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/GTEDumplings_potstickers-2048x1536.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/GTEDumplings_potstickers-1920x1440.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The pop-up’s most famous dish is probably its long potstickers. \u003ccite>(Good-to-Eat Dumplings)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">As with so many businesses, the turning point was the pandemic. Prior to that, Good-to-Eat had stayed fairly one-minded in its focus on dumplings with seasonal fillings; its most famous dish was its long potstickers. But once shelter in place hit and Good-to-Eat shifted to doing takeout exclusively, Lin says it only made sense to offer more complete meals: rice plates, noodle dishes and a variety of weekly specials. They served Taiwanese-style lion’s head meatballs, crispy fried pork chops and an appetizer they stylized as “\u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2020/9/16/21439018/good-to-eat-dumplings-taiwanese-caprese-tomatoes-soy-sauce-pop-up-oakland\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Taiwanese caprese\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">”—a classic preparation from Tainan that combined ripe heirloom tomatoes, sugar and a gingery soy-sauce glaze. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Regulars were immediately enamored with the new dishes, and, as in-person dining slowly ramped up again, the restaurant stuck with the expanded menu. On any given weekend, Lin says, the dining room would fill up with families across three generations. Each group would order a spread of dishes sumptuous enough to cover the table and then some.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“This is really what we love. This is why we are doing this,” Lin says. “We figured out that our food has this ability to bring people together like this.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13901991\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 1125px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13901991\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/GTEDumplings_tonycabbage.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Tony Tung leans over the counter where there is a plate of stuffed cabbage rolls.\" width=\"1125\" height=\"1467\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/GTEDumplings_tonycabbage.jpg 1125w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/GTEDumplings_tonycabbage-800x1043.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/GTEDumplings_tonycabbage-1020x1330.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/GTEDumplings_tonycabbage-160x209.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/GTEDumplings_tonycabbage-768x1001.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1125px) 100vw, 1125px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Tony Tung plates up an order of Taiwanese cabbage rolls. \u003ccite>(Good-to-Eat Dumplings)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The problem was that their brewery kitchen was set up in the typical makeshift pop-up way. All of the dishes had to be prepped ahead of time at a commercial kitchen in downtown Oakland, which meant they weren’t able to make the menu as expansive and ambitious as they wanted it to be. Every time they added a new dish, they had to remove some other customer favorite.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The chefs’ vision for the new Emeryville location, then, is to serve an even larger selection of traditional Taiwanese dishes beyond dumplings and bao, focusing on the kind of dishes that are both homey and elegant—and special enough that you’d normally only encounter them at a banquet or celebration meal. As Lin puts it, “We love to showcase how delicate traditional Taiwanese cooking is.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The aforementioned lion’s head meatballs, for instance, are stewed with just napa cabbage—no water—to yield an intensely flavorful broth. Lin and Tung will serve a chicken soup that gets slow-cooked in a clay pot for 24 hours. They’ll serve Taiwanese-style stuffed cabbage rolls. And they’ll be able to more regularly serve their labor-intensive pork belly gua bao, which include mustard leaves that they ferment in-house. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">At the same time, the restaurant will continue to serve all of its staples: the dumplings, the noodles, the various small plates.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">At its core, then, the restaurant will be a place where customers will be able to sit down and enjoy a multi-course, family-style Taiwanese meal—a real rarity in this part of the East Bay, where almost all of the \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13897936/best-taiwanese-restaurants-sf-oakland-cupertino-bay-area\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">existing Taiwanese restaurants\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> focus on street foods or bento boxes. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13901063,arts_13897936,arts_13897272']Meanwhile, Lin says she and Tung have formed a deep connection with their customers in the Jack London area over the past three years, which is why they have no intention of leaving. Instead, they’ll continue to run the pop-up spot as “Baohous by GTE,” with a streamlined menu focused on sandwich-style steamed bao during the week and a callback to their original dumpling pop-up menu on Sundays.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In many ways, the restaurant’s trajectory mirrors the \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13897272/bay-area-taiwanese-food-scene-nostalgia\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">growing mainstream embrace of the Bay Area’s Taiwanese food scene\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> in general. When they were first starting out, Lin and Tung were afraid that if they even included the word “Taiwanese” in their branding, customers would just wind up feeling confused. Now, Lin says she’s definitely going to make sure people know that Good-to-Eat Dumplings is Taiwanese.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Now everyone has much more awareness,” Lin says. “Food from Taiwan is a category that customers want to explore.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">If all goes according to plan, Good-to-Eat Dumplings will open at 1298 65th Street in Emeryville as early as November 2021. For updates, follow the restaurant on \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/goodtoeatdumplings/\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Instagram\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">When Angie Lin and Tony Tung first broke into the Bay Area’s burgeoning brewery-based pop-up scene about three years ago, all the cool craft breweries were slinging burgers or tacos or nachos. No one seemed to be repping what they believed to be an equally transcendent pairing: craft beer and handmade, “craft” dumplings. \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/goodtoeatdumplings/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Good-to-Eat Dumplings\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> stepped in to fill the void.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Eventually, the wife-and-wife duo settled into a permanent gig popping up out of the kitchen at \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/originalpattern/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Original Pattern Brewing\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, in Jack London Square, and slowly built up an avid cult following for its distinctly Taiwanese style of dumplings and bao, which also showcased fresh Northern California produce. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Now, they will have a standalone restaurant of their own. Opening toward the end of 2021 in the former Yuzu Ramen & Broffee location on 65th Street in Emeryville, the new Good-to-Eat Dumplings will be one of a small number of full-fledged Taiwanese restaurants in the Oakland and Berkeley area—one of the only places, in fact, where diners will be able to sit down for a family-style Taiwanese meal.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13901990\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13901990\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/GTEDumplings_potstickers-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"Three long, well-browned potsticker dumplings on a plate.\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/GTEDumplings_potstickers-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/GTEDumplings_potstickers-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/GTEDumplings_potstickers-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/GTEDumplings_potstickers-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/GTEDumplings_potstickers-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/GTEDumplings_potstickers-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/GTEDumplings_potstickers-2048x1536.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/GTEDumplings_potstickers-1920x1440.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The pop-up’s most famous dish is probably its long potstickers. \u003ccite>(Good-to-Eat Dumplings)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">As with so many businesses, the turning point was the pandemic. Prior to that, Good-to-Eat had stayed fairly one-minded in its focus on dumplings with seasonal fillings; its most famous dish was its long potstickers. But once shelter in place hit and Good-to-Eat shifted to doing takeout exclusively, Lin says it only made sense to offer more complete meals: rice plates, noodle dishes and a variety of weekly specials. They served Taiwanese-style lion’s head meatballs, crispy fried pork chops and an appetizer they stylized as “\u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2020/9/16/21439018/good-to-eat-dumplings-taiwanese-caprese-tomatoes-soy-sauce-pop-up-oakland\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Taiwanese caprese\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">”—a classic preparation from Tainan that combined ripe heirloom tomatoes, sugar and a gingery soy-sauce glaze. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Regulars were immediately enamored with the new dishes, and, as in-person dining slowly ramped up again, the restaurant stuck with the expanded menu. On any given weekend, Lin says, the dining room would fill up with families across three generations. Each group would order a spread of dishes sumptuous enough to cover the table and then some.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“This is really what we love. This is why we are doing this,” Lin says. “We figured out that our food has this ability to bring people together like this.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13901991\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 1125px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13901991\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/GTEDumplings_tonycabbage.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Tony Tung leans over the counter where there is a plate of stuffed cabbage rolls.\" width=\"1125\" height=\"1467\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/GTEDumplings_tonycabbage.jpg 1125w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/GTEDumplings_tonycabbage-800x1043.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/GTEDumplings_tonycabbage-1020x1330.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/GTEDumplings_tonycabbage-160x209.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/GTEDumplings_tonycabbage-768x1001.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1125px) 100vw, 1125px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Tony Tung plates up an order of Taiwanese cabbage rolls. \u003ccite>(Good-to-Eat Dumplings)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The problem was that their brewery kitchen was set up in the typical makeshift pop-up way. All of the dishes had to be prepped ahead of time at a commercial kitchen in downtown Oakland, which meant they weren’t able to make the menu as expansive and ambitious as they wanted it to be. Every time they added a new dish, they had to remove some other customer favorite.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The chefs’ vision for the new Emeryville location, then, is to serve an even larger selection of traditional Taiwanese dishes beyond dumplings and bao, focusing on the kind of dishes that are both homey and elegant—and special enough that you’d normally only encounter them at a banquet or celebration meal. As Lin puts it, “We love to showcase how delicate traditional Taiwanese cooking is.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The aforementioned lion’s head meatballs, for instance, are stewed with just napa cabbage—no water—to yield an intensely flavorful broth. Lin and Tung will serve a chicken soup that gets slow-cooked in a clay pot for 24 hours. They’ll serve Taiwanese-style stuffed cabbage rolls. And they’ll be able to more regularly serve their labor-intensive pork belly gua bao, which include mustard leaves that they ferment in-house. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">At the same time, the restaurant will continue to serve all of its staples: the dumplings, the noodles, the various small plates.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">At its core, then, the restaurant will be a place where customers will be able to sit down and enjoy a multi-course, family-style Taiwanese meal—a real rarity in this part of the East Bay, where almost all of the \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13897936/best-taiwanese-restaurants-sf-oakland-cupertino-bay-area\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">existing Taiwanese restaurants\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> focus on street foods or bento boxes. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>Meanwhile, Lin says she and Tung have formed a deep connection with their customers in the Jack London area over the past three years, which is why they have no intention of leaving. Instead, they’ll continue to run the pop-up spot as “Baohous by GTE,” with a streamlined menu focused on sandwich-style steamed bao during the week and a callback to their original dumpling pop-up menu on Sundays.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In many ways, the restaurant’s trajectory mirrors the \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13897272/bay-area-taiwanese-food-scene-nostalgia\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">growing mainstream embrace of the Bay Area’s Taiwanese food scene\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> in general. When they were first starting out, Lin and Tung were afraid that if they even included the word “Taiwanese” in their branding, customers would just wind up feeling confused. Now, Lin says she’s definitely going to make sure people know that Good-to-Eat Dumplings is Taiwanese.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Now everyone has much more awareness,” Lin says. “Food from Taiwan is a category that customers want to explore.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">If all goes according to plan, Good-to-Eat Dumplings will open at 1298 65th Street in Emeryville as early as November 2021. For updates, follow the restaurant on \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/goodtoeatdumplings/\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Instagram\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "The Face of SF’s Modern Filipino Food Movement Finally Has a Restaurant of His Own",
"headTitle": "The Face of SF’s Modern Filipino Food Movement Finally Has a Restaurant of His Own | KQED",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">If any chef in San Francisco has mastered the art of the pop-up, Francis Ang has. As the chef for \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.pinoyheritage.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Pinoy Heritage\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, the Filipino-Californian pop-up series he’s run with his wife Dian since 2016, Ang has slung countless little cardboard trays of sisig fried rice at food festivals and hosted communal kamayan feasts as warm and welcoming as a dinner party with friends. Even out of tiny, cobbled-together kitchens, he’s assembled the kind of precise, prettily plated tasting menu dishes that compare favorably to any Michelin-endorsed masterpiece.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">And now, finally, Ang and his team are opening a full-fledged restaurant of their own. Located inside the brand new Kimpton Alton Hotel in Fisherman’s Wharf, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.restaurantabaca.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Abacá\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> opens today, Aug. 16, with an exciting, small plates–focused \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.restaurantabaca.com/menu\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">dinner menu\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> from Ang and chef de cuisine Danica Aviles, as well as a panaderia serving Filipino breads and pastries during the morning and afternoon. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13901351\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 1706px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13901351\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/abaca_skewer-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"Longganisa pork sausage skewer, with egg yolk for dipping.\" width=\"1706\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/abaca_skewer-scaled.jpg 1706w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/abaca_skewer-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/abaca_skewer-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/abaca_skewer-160x240.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/abaca_skewer-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/abaca_skewer-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/abaca_skewer-1365x2048.jpg 1365w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/abaca_skewer-1920x2880.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1706px) 100vw, 1706px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Longganisa pork sausage skewer, with egg yolk for dipping. \u003ccite>(Melissa de Mata)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The idea is to carry forward with Pinoy Heritage’s primary mission: to introduce lesser known, regionally specific Filipino dishes to Bay Area diners. In other words, Ang says, “We’re using Abacá as an opportunity to show that Filipino food is not just your typical adobo and pancit.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In many ways, Ang has become the face of the Bay Area’s modern \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://sanfran.com/finally-the-bay-areas-filipino-food-scene-takes-star-turn\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Filipino food movement\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> over the course of the past five years, doing as much as anyone to expand diners’ understanding of what Filipino food is and has the potential to be. The driving force behind the Pinoy Heritage pop-ups was the series of extended research trips that Francis and Dian would take to the Philippines each year, traveling to as many of the country’s 7,000 individual islands as they could. On a trip to the southern island of Mindanao, for instance, they learned about chicken pyanggang, or grilled chicken blackened with coconut ash—a dish Ang had never even heard of during the 19 years he lived in the Philippines. Now it’s part of a whole section of of skewers on Abacá’s menu that’s meant as a nod to traditional Filipino barbecue.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">What sets Ang apart from a lot of other Filipino chefs in the Bay Area, though, is that he isn’t only interested in serving dishes in their most straightforward form. His pop-ups are known for presenting traditional dishes with a touch of fine-dining elegance (Ang’s background, after all, was as a fine dining pastry chef)—for pushing the envelope on what modern, California-inflected Filipino food might look like.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">One of Ang’s favorite dishes on Abacá’s opening menu is a tomato and peach salad that doesn’t look Filipino at all. But, as Ang explains, “If you taste it, it brings you back.” The salad has an herb sauce that transports diners back to the Filipino wet markets. It has smoked fish in it, which transports them to the breakfast table, since Filipinos traditionally eat smoked fish with eggs. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“There’s no boundaries; there’s no rules,” Ang says. “We interpret Filipino food in our own way, knowing its history and past.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13898436,arts_13896138']For years, there has been talk about whether Filipino food has developed enough “mainstream” \u003ca href=\"https://sanfran.com/finally-the-bay-areas-filipino-food-scene-takes-star-turn\">crossover appeal\u003c/a> in the Bay Area to support an upscale Filipino restaurant. The region has long been home to dozens upon dozens of superlative “mom-and-pop” Filipino restaurants catering mainly to the Filipino community, especially in the Daly City area. And it’s become a hotspot, too, for hip Filipino American joints slinging things like sisig burritos, creatively stuffed lumpia and loaded fries. But the few attempts at something approaching Filipino “fine dining” haven’t enjoyed a long shelf life: \u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/poleng-lounge-san-francisco\">Poleng Lounge\u003c/a> had a great run in the late aughts, but it never marketed itself as a purely Filipino restaurant—and felt more like a nightclub than a fine dining restaurant. Polk Street’s 1760 launched a \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2020/3/3/21163675/1760-prix-fixe-filipino-39-dollars\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">promising and elegant three-course Filipino prix fixe\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> last March only to have it get squashed by the pandemic shutdown just one month in.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Abacá will serve as an interesting test case, then. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Pinoy Heritage, for its part, was never purely a fine dining venture; some of its best pop-ups served straight-up street food. Even during the pandemic, Pinoy Heritage straddled both approaches: meal kits that allowed customers to assemble a bona fide fine dining tasting menu at home \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">and \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">value-oriented \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2020/9/21/21449340/pinoy-heritage-kamayan-regional-filipino-feast-takeout\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">kamayan takeout feasts\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, each focused on a different region of the Philippines.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13901352\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13901352\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/abaca_pastries-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"A trio of Filipino pastries, plated on top of banana leaves\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1706\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/abaca_pastries-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/abaca_pastries-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/abaca_pastries-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/abaca_pastries-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/abaca_pastries-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/abaca_pastries-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/abaca_pastries-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/abaca_pastries-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A trio of pastries from Abacá’s panaderia. \u003ccite>(Melissa de Mata)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">According to Ang, Abacá will embrace all of those different aspects of the cuisine. What’s clear, though, is that the Bay Area has never had a Filipino restaurant quite like it, where diners might splurge on a $55 dry-aged ribeye served bistek style, craft cocktails (courtesy of Pacific Cocktail Haven’s Kevin Diedrich) and scallop pancit made with homemade noodles—where the attached bakery sells some of the prettiest laminated ensaymada you’ll ever see, and where hotel guests can even call in for room service.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Are we fine dining? It will be very, very fine,” Ang says. “But the idea is to have all the good stuff about fine dining, minus the stuffiness.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003ca href=\"https://www.restaurantabaca.com/\">Abacá \u003c/a>is now open, with both indoor and outdoor seating, at the Kimpton Alton Hotel (2700 Jones St., San Francisco). Dinner is served Monday through Saturday, 5–9pm; the panaderia is open 7am–2:30pm.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">If any chef in San Francisco has mastered the art of the pop-up, Francis Ang has. As the chef for \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.pinoyheritage.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Pinoy Heritage\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, the Filipino-Californian pop-up series he’s run with his wife Dian since 2016, Ang has slung countless little cardboard trays of sisig fried rice at food festivals and hosted communal kamayan feasts as warm and welcoming as a dinner party with friends. Even out of tiny, cobbled-together kitchens, he’s assembled the kind of precise, prettily plated tasting menu dishes that compare favorably to any Michelin-endorsed masterpiece.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">And now, finally, Ang and his team are opening a full-fledged restaurant of their own. Located inside the brand new Kimpton Alton Hotel in Fisherman’s Wharf, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.restaurantabaca.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Abacá\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> opens today, Aug. 16, with an exciting, small plates–focused \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.restaurantabaca.com/menu\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">dinner menu\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> from Ang and chef de cuisine Danica Aviles, as well as a panaderia serving Filipino breads and pastries during the morning and afternoon. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13901351\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 1706px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13901351\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/abaca_skewer-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"Longganisa pork sausage skewer, with egg yolk for dipping.\" width=\"1706\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/abaca_skewer-scaled.jpg 1706w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/abaca_skewer-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/abaca_skewer-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/abaca_skewer-160x240.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/abaca_skewer-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/abaca_skewer-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/abaca_skewer-1365x2048.jpg 1365w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/abaca_skewer-1920x2880.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1706px) 100vw, 1706px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Longganisa pork sausage skewer, with egg yolk for dipping. \u003ccite>(Melissa de Mata)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The idea is to carry forward with Pinoy Heritage’s primary mission: to introduce lesser known, regionally specific Filipino dishes to Bay Area diners. In other words, Ang says, “We’re using Abacá as an opportunity to show that Filipino food is not just your typical adobo and pancit.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In many ways, Ang has become the face of the Bay Area’s modern \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://sanfran.com/finally-the-bay-areas-filipino-food-scene-takes-star-turn\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Filipino food movement\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> over the course of the past five years, doing as much as anyone to expand diners’ understanding of what Filipino food is and has the potential to be. The driving force behind the Pinoy Heritage pop-ups was the series of extended research trips that Francis and Dian would take to the Philippines each year, traveling to as many of the country’s 7,000 individual islands as they could. On a trip to the southern island of Mindanao, for instance, they learned about chicken pyanggang, or grilled chicken blackened with coconut ash—a dish Ang had never even heard of during the 19 years he lived in the Philippines. Now it’s part of a whole section of of skewers on Abacá’s menu that’s meant as a nod to traditional Filipino barbecue.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">What sets Ang apart from a lot of other Filipino chefs in the Bay Area, though, is that he isn’t only interested in serving dishes in their most straightforward form. His pop-ups are known for presenting traditional dishes with a touch of fine-dining elegance (Ang’s background, after all, was as a fine dining pastry chef)—for pushing the envelope on what modern, California-inflected Filipino food might look like.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">One of Ang’s favorite dishes on Abacá’s opening menu is a tomato and peach salad that doesn’t look Filipino at all. But, as Ang explains, “If you taste it, it brings you back.” The salad has an herb sauce that transports diners back to the Filipino wet markets. It has smoked fish in it, which transports them to the breakfast table, since Filipinos traditionally eat smoked fish with eggs. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“There’s no boundaries; there’s no rules,” Ang says. “We interpret Filipino food in our own way, knowing its history and past.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>For years, there has been talk about whether Filipino food has developed enough “mainstream” \u003ca href=\"https://sanfran.com/finally-the-bay-areas-filipino-food-scene-takes-star-turn\">crossover appeal\u003c/a> in the Bay Area to support an upscale Filipino restaurant. The region has long been home to dozens upon dozens of superlative “mom-and-pop” Filipino restaurants catering mainly to the Filipino community, especially in the Daly City area. And it’s become a hotspot, too, for hip Filipino American joints slinging things like sisig burritos, creatively stuffed lumpia and loaded fries. But the few attempts at something approaching Filipino “fine dining” haven’t enjoyed a long shelf life: \u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/poleng-lounge-san-francisco\">Poleng Lounge\u003c/a> had a great run in the late aughts, but it never marketed itself as a purely Filipino restaurant—and felt more like a nightclub than a fine dining restaurant. Polk Street’s 1760 launched a \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2020/3/3/21163675/1760-prix-fixe-filipino-39-dollars\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">promising and elegant three-course Filipino prix fixe\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> last March only to have it get squashed by the pandemic shutdown just one month in.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Abacá will serve as an interesting test case, then. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Pinoy Heritage, for its part, was never purely a fine dining venture; some of its best pop-ups served straight-up street food. Even during the pandemic, Pinoy Heritage straddled both approaches: meal kits that allowed customers to assemble a bona fide fine dining tasting menu at home \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">and \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">value-oriented \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2020/9/21/21449340/pinoy-heritage-kamayan-regional-filipino-feast-takeout\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">kamayan takeout feasts\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, each focused on a different region of the Philippines.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13901352\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13901352\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/abaca_pastries-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"A trio of Filipino pastries, plated on top of banana leaves\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1706\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/abaca_pastries-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/abaca_pastries-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/abaca_pastries-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/abaca_pastries-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/abaca_pastries-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/abaca_pastries-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/abaca_pastries-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/abaca_pastries-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A trio of pastries from Abacá’s panaderia. \u003ccite>(Melissa de Mata)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">According to Ang, Abacá will embrace all of those different aspects of the cuisine. What’s clear, though, is that the Bay Area has never had a Filipino restaurant quite like it, where diners might splurge on a $55 dry-aged ribeye served bistek style, craft cocktails (courtesy of Pacific Cocktail Haven’s Kevin Diedrich) and scallop pancit made with homemade noodles—where the attached bakery sells some of the prettiest laminated ensaymada you’ll ever see, and where hotel guests can even call in for room service.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Are we fine dining? It will be very, very fine,” Ang says. “But the idea is to have all the good stuff about fine dining, minus the stuffiness.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003ca href=\"https://www.restaurantabaca.com/\">Abacá \u003c/a>is now open, with both indoor and outdoor seating, at the Kimpton Alton Hotel (2700 Jones St., San Francisco). Dinner is served Monday through Saturday, 5–9pm; the panaderia is open 7am–2:30pm.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"slug": "cafe-mei-taiwanese-breakfast-sandwich-burger-fremont",
"title": "Taiwanese Breakfast Sandwiches Make Long-Awaited Debut at East Bay Strip Mall",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For many Taiwanese Americans in the Bay Area, breakfast isn’t just the proverbial most important meal of the day; \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13897868/taiwanese-breakfast-bay-area\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">it’s also the most elusive\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. It is, anyway, if you’re craving traditional Taiwanese breakfast foods like dan bing (rolled egg crepes), fan tuan (sticky rice rolls) and both sweet and savory versions of fresh-pressed soy milk. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Little by little, though, that’s starting to change. A few weeks ago, Newark’s \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/chefwurestaurant\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Chef Wu\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">—for many years the Bay Area’s only dedicated Taiwanese breakfast shop—finally \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/theluketsai/status/1416833297091489794\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">reopened\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> after staying closed all through the pandemic. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">And now, more exciting news: A couple of months after KQED \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13897868/taiwanese-breakfast-bay-area\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">first \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">reported\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> its arrival at a Fremont shopping plaza, \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/cafemeiusa/\">Cafe Mei\u003c/a> officially opens on Thursday, August 12, introducing Bay Area diners to a whole new genre of Taiwanese breakfast foods. It’s the first U.S. spinoff of Mei Er Mei, a wildly popular quick-service chain in Taiwan known for its tidy, quadruple-decker breakfast sandwiches. To start out, the restaurant will be open Wednesday through Sunday, from 8am to 2pm.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13901087\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13901087\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/cafe-mei_no-1-sandwich-combo-1-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"A Taiwanese breakfast sandwich wrapped in plastic.\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/cafe-mei_no-1-sandwich-combo-1-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/cafe-mei_no-1-sandwich-combo-1-800x450.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/cafe-mei_no-1-sandwich-combo-1-1020x574.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/cafe-mei_no-1-sandwich-combo-1-160x90.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/cafe-mei_no-1-sandwich-combo-1-768x432.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/cafe-mei_no-1-sandwich-combo-1-1536x864.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/cafe-mei_no-1-sandwich-combo-1-2048x1152.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/cafe-mei_no-1-sandwich-combo-1-1920x1080.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A Cafe Mei breakfast sandwich, pre-wrapped for grab-and-go service. \u003ccite>(Cafe Mei)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In Taipei, you can find a Mei Er Mei breakfast stall in just about every neighborhood; they’re your classic bare-bones hole-in-the-wall, open to the street and equipped with little more than a flat-top grill. As American fast-food chains such as McDonald’s opened in Taiwan in the ’80s and ’90s, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://thetaiwantimes.com/taiwans-culinary-diversity-a-real-mix-n-match-of-tastes/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">popularizing burgers and other Western-style sandwiches\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, Mei Er Mei offered a more Taiwanese-style alternative. In addition to standard ingredients like ham and eggs, a typical breakfast sandwich features ingredients that cater to Taiwanese tastes, like slivers of raw cucumber, a heavily seasoned pork patty and a generous swipe of the chain’s proprietary sweet mayonnaise.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">At Cafe Mei, those sandwiches will be available hot and freshly griddled as well as in pre-wrapped grab-and-go versions. The restaurant also serves an excellent version of one of the most underrated Taiwanese breakfast foods: the Taiwanese burger. It, too, is distinguished by the seasoned pork patty, the mayonnaise and the sliced cucumber as a garnish. The optional egg on top marks it as “breakfast,” but it would make a fine meal at any time of day.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13897879\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13897879\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/CafeMei_burger-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"A Taiwanese breakfast burger, with fried egg, tomato, and cucumber garnish visible, on top of a checker-patterned sheet of wax paper.\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/CafeMei_burger-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/CafeMei_burger-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/CafeMei_burger-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/CafeMei_burger-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/CafeMei_burger-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/CafeMei_burger-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/CafeMei_burger-2048x1536.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/CafeMei_burger-1920x1440.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Toppings for the Cafe Mei breakfast burger include tomato, fried egg, and thinly sliced cucumber. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Other menu highlights include dan bing, or “Taiwanese pancakes” as they’re listed on the menu—including, eventually, less common varieties filled with tuna or cha shao (roast pork)—and teppan noodles, which get cooked on the big flat-top with mushrooms and ground pork. Owner Kandy Wang says that once the business has settled in, she also wants to extend her hours and add afternoon tea service—the whole nine yards, with a three-tier cake stand, mini sandwiches and macarons. She also hopes to start making chelun bing, or Taiwanese wheel cakes—a kind of pancake filled with red bean paste.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Cafe Mei doesn’t, in fact, have any direct affiliation with Taiwan’s Mei Er Mei, but Wang explains that she secured the chain’s official recipes—for those pork patties, for instance—from one of its suppliers, allowing her to offer what she believes to be the closest thing you can find in the United States to an “authentic” Mei Er Mei experience. (She also owns the “Mei Er Mei” trademark in the U.S., for future expansion purposes.) \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13901088\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13901088\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/cafe-mei_dine-in-8-original-pancake-with-egg-and-corn-6-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"Dan bing (Taiwanese rolled egg crepe) with corn.\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/cafe-mei_dine-in-8-original-pancake-with-egg-and-corn-6-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/cafe-mei_dine-in-8-original-pancake-with-egg-and-corn-6-800x450.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/cafe-mei_dine-in-8-original-pancake-with-egg-and-corn-6-1020x574.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/cafe-mei_dine-in-8-original-pancake-with-egg-and-corn-6-160x90.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/cafe-mei_dine-in-8-original-pancake-with-egg-and-corn-6-768x432.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/cafe-mei_dine-in-8-original-pancake-with-egg-and-corn-6-1536x864.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/cafe-mei_dine-in-8-original-pancake-with-egg-and-corn-6-2048x1152.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/cafe-mei_dine-in-8-original-pancake-with-egg-and-corn-6-1920x1080.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dan bing with corn. \u003ccite>(Cafe Mei)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">True to its name, the restaurant will also offer a slightly fancier sit-down cafe experience than you’d find at a Mei Er Mei street corner food stall in Taiwan—eventually, that is. To start out, though, the restaurant will be takeout only, with outdoor seating, shared with the rest of the plaza, available out in the parking lot. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13897868,arts_13897936,arts_13897272'] For more than a year now, Wang has been selling her Cafe Mei sandwiches once a week, on a preorder-only basis, so opening five days a week will be a big step up. She’s grateful, though, that she’s already found a built-in customer base that has gotten more and more enthusiastic as the official opening has approached.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“They don’t just pay for their orders; they want to express how excited they are,” Wang says. “They say we brought great memories of home. That it tastes just like home.’”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/cafemeiusa/\">Cafe Mei\u003c/a>’s initial opening hours will be Wednesday through Sunday, 8am–2pm, at 43761 Boscell Rd #5125 in Fremont (in the Pacific Commons Shopping Center). For the month of August, all menu items will be sold at a 15% discount. See the opening menu below:\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-13901090\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/soft-openine-menu-2-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"Cafe Mei opening menu\" width=\"1978\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/soft-openine-menu-2-scaled.jpg 1978w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/soft-openine-menu-2-800x1035.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/soft-openine-menu-2-1020x1320.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/soft-openine-menu-2-160x207.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/soft-openine-menu-2-768x994.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/soft-openine-menu-2-1187x1536.jpg 1187w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/soft-openine-menu-2-1583x2048.jpg 1583w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/soft-openine-menu-2-1920x2485.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1978px) 100vw, 1978px\">\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For many Taiwanese Americans in the Bay Area, breakfast isn’t just the proverbial most important meal of the day; \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13897868/taiwanese-breakfast-bay-area\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">it’s also the most elusive\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. It is, anyway, if you’re craving traditional Taiwanese breakfast foods like dan bing (rolled egg crepes), fan tuan (sticky rice rolls) and both sweet and savory versions of fresh-pressed soy milk. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Little by little, though, that’s starting to change. A few weeks ago, Newark’s \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/chefwurestaurant\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Chef Wu\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">—for many years the Bay Area’s only dedicated Taiwanese breakfast shop—finally \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/theluketsai/status/1416833297091489794\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">reopened\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> after staying closed all through the pandemic. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">And now, more exciting news: A couple of months after KQED \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13897868/taiwanese-breakfast-bay-area\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">first \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">reported\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> its arrival at a Fremont shopping plaza, \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/cafemeiusa/\">Cafe Mei\u003c/a> officially opens on Thursday, August 12, introducing Bay Area diners to a whole new genre of Taiwanese breakfast foods. It’s the first U.S. spinoff of Mei Er Mei, a wildly popular quick-service chain in Taiwan known for its tidy, quadruple-decker breakfast sandwiches. To start out, the restaurant will be open Wednesday through Sunday, from 8am to 2pm.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13901087\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13901087\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/cafe-mei_no-1-sandwich-combo-1-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"A Taiwanese breakfast sandwich wrapped in plastic.\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/cafe-mei_no-1-sandwich-combo-1-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/cafe-mei_no-1-sandwich-combo-1-800x450.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/cafe-mei_no-1-sandwich-combo-1-1020x574.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/cafe-mei_no-1-sandwich-combo-1-160x90.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/cafe-mei_no-1-sandwich-combo-1-768x432.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/cafe-mei_no-1-sandwich-combo-1-1536x864.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/cafe-mei_no-1-sandwich-combo-1-2048x1152.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/cafe-mei_no-1-sandwich-combo-1-1920x1080.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A Cafe Mei breakfast sandwich, pre-wrapped for grab-and-go service. \u003ccite>(Cafe Mei)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In Taipei, you can find a Mei Er Mei breakfast stall in just about every neighborhood; they’re your classic bare-bones hole-in-the-wall, open to the street and equipped with little more than a flat-top grill. As American fast-food chains such as McDonald’s opened in Taiwan in the ’80s and ’90s, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://thetaiwantimes.com/taiwans-culinary-diversity-a-real-mix-n-match-of-tastes/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">popularizing burgers and other Western-style sandwiches\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, Mei Er Mei offered a more Taiwanese-style alternative. In addition to standard ingredients like ham and eggs, a typical breakfast sandwich features ingredients that cater to Taiwanese tastes, like slivers of raw cucumber, a heavily seasoned pork patty and a generous swipe of the chain’s proprietary sweet mayonnaise.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">At Cafe Mei, those sandwiches will be available hot and freshly griddled as well as in pre-wrapped grab-and-go versions. The restaurant also serves an excellent version of one of the most underrated Taiwanese breakfast foods: the Taiwanese burger. It, too, is distinguished by the seasoned pork patty, the mayonnaise and the sliced cucumber as a garnish. The optional egg on top marks it as “breakfast,” but it would make a fine meal at any time of day.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13897879\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13897879\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/CafeMei_burger-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"A Taiwanese breakfast burger, with fried egg, tomato, and cucumber garnish visible, on top of a checker-patterned sheet of wax paper.\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/CafeMei_burger-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/CafeMei_burger-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/CafeMei_burger-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/CafeMei_burger-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/CafeMei_burger-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/CafeMei_burger-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/CafeMei_burger-2048x1536.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/CafeMei_burger-1920x1440.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Toppings for the Cafe Mei breakfast burger include tomato, fried egg, and thinly sliced cucumber. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Other menu highlights include dan bing, or “Taiwanese pancakes” as they’re listed on the menu—including, eventually, less common varieties filled with tuna or cha shao (roast pork)—and teppan noodles, which get cooked on the big flat-top with mushrooms and ground pork. Owner Kandy Wang says that once the business has settled in, she also wants to extend her hours and add afternoon tea service—the whole nine yards, with a three-tier cake stand, mini sandwiches and macarons. She also hopes to start making chelun bing, or Taiwanese wheel cakes—a kind of pancake filled with red bean paste.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Cafe Mei doesn’t, in fact, have any direct affiliation with Taiwan’s Mei Er Mei, but Wang explains that she secured the chain’s official recipes—for those pork patties, for instance—from one of its suppliers, allowing her to offer what she believes to be the closest thing you can find in the United States to an “authentic” Mei Er Mei experience. (She also owns the “Mei Er Mei” trademark in the U.S., for future expansion purposes.) \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13901088\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13901088\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/cafe-mei_dine-in-8-original-pancake-with-egg-and-corn-6-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"Dan bing (Taiwanese rolled egg crepe) with corn.\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/cafe-mei_dine-in-8-original-pancake-with-egg-and-corn-6-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/cafe-mei_dine-in-8-original-pancake-with-egg-and-corn-6-800x450.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/cafe-mei_dine-in-8-original-pancake-with-egg-and-corn-6-1020x574.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/cafe-mei_dine-in-8-original-pancake-with-egg-and-corn-6-160x90.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/cafe-mei_dine-in-8-original-pancake-with-egg-and-corn-6-768x432.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/cafe-mei_dine-in-8-original-pancake-with-egg-and-corn-6-1536x864.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/cafe-mei_dine-in-8-original-pancake-with-egg-and-corn-6-2048x1152.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/cafe-mei_dine-in-8-original-pancake-with-egg-and-corn-6-1920x1080.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dan bing with corn. \u003ccite>(Cafe Mei)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">True to its name, the restaurant will also offer a slightly fancier sit-down cafe experience than you’d find at a Mei Er Mei street corner food stall in Taiwan—eventually, that is. To start out, though, the restaurant will be takeout only, with outdoor seating, shared with the rest of the plaza, available out in the parking lot. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp> For more than a year now, Wang has been selling her Cafe Mei sandwiches once a week, on a preorder-only basis, so opening five days a week will be a big step up. She’s grateful, though, that she’s already found a built-in customer base that has gotten more and more enthusiastic as the official opening has approached.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“They don’t just pay for their orders; they want to express how excited they are,” Wang says. “They say we brought great memories of home. That it tastes just like home.’”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/cafemeiusa/\">Cafe Mei\u003c/a>’s initial opening hours will be Wednesday through Sunday, 8am–2pm, at 43761 Boscell Rd #5125 in Fremont (in the Pacific Commons Shopping Center). For the month of August, all menu items will be sold at a 15% discount. See the opening menu below:\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-13901090\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/soft-openine-menu-2-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"Cafe Mei opening menu\" width=\"1978\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/soft-openine-menu-2-scaled.jpg 1978w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/soft-openine-menu-2-800x1035.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/soft-openine-menu-2-1020x1320.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/soft-openine-menu-2-160x207.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/soft-openine-menu-2-768x994.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/soft-openine-menu-2-1187x1536.jpg 1187w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/soft-openine-menu-2-1583x2048.jpg 1583w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/soft-openine-menu-2-1920x2485.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1978px) 100vw, 1978px\">\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"slug": "garlic-noodles-sf-bay-area-iconic-foods-thanh-long-smellys",
"title": "How Garlic Noodles Became One of the Bay Area’s Most Iconic Foods",
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"headTitle": "How Garlic Noodles Became One of the Bay Area’s Most Iconic Foods | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[dropcap]I[/dropcap]f I were to put together a catalogue of quintessential Bay Area foods, I would include all of the usual suspects: the Mission burrito. Cioppino. The It’s-It. Maybe even the long-scorned clam chowder in a sourdough bread bowl. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">But though it’s rarely mentioned in these kinds of \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13900274/hitting-the-road-and-building-a-northern-california-bucket-list\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">bucket list\u003c/span>\u003c/a> \u003ca href=\"https://www.7x7.com/100-things-to-do-in-san-francisco-1781694627.html\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">compilations\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, I’d also be hard-pressed to leave off a cult favorite whose fandom spans multiple cultures and cuisines—all united by their mutual love of butter, garlic and a nice hit of good old-fashioned MSG. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I’m talking, of course, about garlic noodles. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Most closely associated with nostalgic Vietnamese seafood joints in San Francisco like \u003ca href=\"http://www.thanhlongsf.com/\">Thanh Long\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.ppqcrab.com/\">PPQ Dungeness Island\u003c/a>, the butter-soaked dish has a luxurious, over-the-top deliciousness that’s hard to match. Even more than that, the dish is emblematic of a whole generation of cooks who grew up in the multiethnic Bay Area, eating tacos and lumpia and Vietnamese roast crab, adapting all of those flavors into their own cuisine. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">To wit: I have ordered garlic noodles off of a Filipino food truck. I’ve had them served as a side dish for a brisket plate at a \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/burmabear/\">Burmese barbecue restaurant\u003c/a>. And, perhaps most strikingly, I’ve seen them on the menu at just about every hot new soul food pop-up that’s blown up in the past year or two. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Here in the Bay Area, Asian Americans love garlic noodles. Black and Latino folks love garlic noodles. Indeed, once you start looking for garlic noodles, it seems, you find them everywhere. They’re one of the most popular dishes at \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://bougcali.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Boug Cali\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, Tiffany Carter’s “West Coast Creole” food stall at the \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13895067/la-cocina-municipal-marketplace-food-hall-opening-tenderloin\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">La Cocina marketplace\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. And they are the foundation of the menu at \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.noodlebelly.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Noodle Belly\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, a new restaurant adjacent to the Fruitvale BART station in Oakland, where everything from crispy pork belly to Taiwanese-Peruvian popcorn chicken comes served over a tangle of the slick umami-packed noodles.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The story, then, of how a noodle dish born and popularized within San Francisco’s Vietnamese community—a product of immigrant ingenuity—spread across culinary borders to become one of the region’s most iconic foods is a uniquely Bay Area tale.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">As Boug Cali’s Carter puts it, “Garlic noodles are Bay Area as burritos or Dutch Crunch sandwiches.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13900945\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13900945\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/020_SanFrancisco_ThanhLong_08072021-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"A plate piled high with garlic noodles on a table, in front of a plate of whole roast crab.\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1706\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/020_SanFrancisco_ThanhLong_08072021-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/020_SanFrancisco_ThanhLong_08072021-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/020_SanFrancisco_ThanhLong_08072021-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/020_SanFrancisco_ThanhLong_08072021-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/020_SanFrancisco_ThanhLong_08072021-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/020_SanFrancisco_ThanhLong_08072021-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/020_SanFrancisco_ThanhLong_08072021-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/020_SanFrancisco_ThanhLong_08072021-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The iconic garlic noodles and roast crab at Thanh Long, the Vietnamese crab spot in the Outer Sunset. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[dropcap]O[/dropcap]f course no single restaurant or cuisine can lay claim to the idea of serving garlic and noodles together—that magical combination that forms the base for everything from Italian spaghetti aglio e olio to Chinese zhajiang mian. But Bay Area garlic noodle enthusiasts all seem to agree that the local take on the dish traces its origins to one of San Francisco’s very first Vietnamese restaurants: \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"http://www.thanhlongsf.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Thanh Long\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The tiny Outer Sunset spot was being run as an Italian deli when Diana An, a wealthy Vietnamese traveler passing through San Francisco, bought it on a whim in 1970. Fearful of the ongoing war back home, An wound up staying to run the restaurant, gradually adding a handful of Vietnamese-inspired dishes like the roast Dungeness crab that eventually became its claim to fame. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[pullquote size=\"large\" align=\"right\" citation=\"Tiffany Carter of Boug Cali\"]“Garlic noodles are Bay Area as burritos or Dutch Crunch sandwiches.”[/pullquote]But it wasn’t until the rest of the An family arrived in San Francisco as refugees in 1975—and after Diana’s daughter-in-law, Helene An, took over the kitchen—that Thanh Long became a full-on Vietnamese restaurant. In the 2016 cookbook that she co-wrote, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.runningpress.com/titles/helene-an/an-to-eat/9780762458356/\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">An: To Eat\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, Helene writes, “All we had left in the world was the strange, small Italian deli.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13900977\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 1163px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13900977\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/thanh-long_exterior1970s.jpg\" alt=\"Diana An (left) poses with her cousins outside her restaurant Thanh Long, circa 1975. \" width=\"1163\" height=\"1378\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/thanh-long_exterior1970s.jpg 1163w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/thanh-long_exterior1970s-800x948.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/thanh-long_exterior1970s-1020x1209.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/thanh-long_exterior1970s-160x190.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/thanh-long_exterior1970s-768x910.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1163px) 100vw, 1163px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Diana An (left) poses for a photo in front of her restaurant, Thanh Long, circa 1975. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of the An family)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Helene’s daughter Monique An, who now manages Thanh Long, recalls that her mother came up with the recipe for the garlic noodles sometime around 1978, having noticed how much her American customers loved pasta—especially, as Helene writes in the book, “pastas laden with cream and butter.” She set out to create a noodle dish that would be “healthier” (because of all of the garlic, if nothing else) and more appealing to her own Asian sensibilities.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“It wasn’t a typical Vietnamese dish,” Monique An says of the noodles. “[My mother] had a lot of French and European influences.” Indeed, An says, the style of garlic noodles that Helene began preparing at Thanh Long didn’t exist in Vietnam. It was Vietnamese American fusion food through and through—or “Euro-Asian,” as the Ans have phrased it in the restaurant’s marketing copy. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Andrea Nguyen, the \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/115191/the-pho-cookbook-interview-with-andrea-nguyen\">cookbook author and Vietnamese food expert\u003c/a>, says she does remember eating \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2019/03/15/dining/umami-noodles-recipe.html\">something similar in Vietnam\u003c/a> when she was a kid—a simple dish of noodles, garlic, Maggi seasoning and \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.vietworldkitchen.com/blog/2014/12/bretel-butter-beurre-bretel-cannned.html\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">cultured butter from a can\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> that she would make for herself after school. According to Nguyen, Thanh Long’s garlic noodles are like that dish “put on steroids,” especially when paired with the restaurant’s roast crab. “You’ve got the funk of the crab—the fattiness of it, the richness of it, the brininess—combined with butter, garlic, MSG [from the Maggi seasoning] and oyster sauce,” Nguyen says. “All of those things put together, it becomes this incredibly over-the-top dish that is special.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Thanh Long’s exact recipe remains shrouded in secrecy, even as restaurants all over the Bay Area have created very similar versions of the dish. Famously, the Ans don’t allow anyone outside of the family to cook the noodles (or other signature items like roast crab), instead prepping them in a secret kitchen tucked inside the main kitchen. And the garlic noodles are a glaring omission from the aforementioned An family cookbook.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13900947\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13900947\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/004_SanFrancisco_ThanhLong_08072021-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"A server picks up a plate of garlic noodles and a whole Dungeness crab from Thanh Long's hidden kitchen inside the main kitchen.\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/004_SanFrancisco_ThanhLong_08072021-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/004_SanFrancisco_ThanhLong_08072021-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/004_SanFrancisco_ThanhLong_08072021-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/004_SanFrancisco_ThanhLong_08072021-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/004_SanFrancisco_ThanhLong_08072021-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/004_SanFrancisco_ThanhLong_08072021-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/004_SanFrancisco_ThanhLong_08072021-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/004_SanFrancisco_ThanhLong_08072021-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A server picks up an order from inside Thanh Long’s secret kitchen, where family members prepare the garlic noodles and roast Dungeness crab. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Ambitious home cooks can, of course, find dozens of copycat recipes circulating on the internet. Almost all of them have the same basic components that Nguyen enumerates: butter, garlic and oyster sauce—often Maggi seasoning and sometimes a bit of Parmesan cheese as well. Monique An says she has tried following some of those recipes herself and thought they turned out well, even if they aren’t “quite the same.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“My mom lost everything two or three times in her life. She said she learned that everything you possess, like all your riches or jewels—you could lose all that,” An explains. “And so she protected that recipe. She said you can lose everything but your knowledge; that’s kind of her gift to us.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Indeed, An says, the family was worried that they were going to lose everything yet again this past year, as their \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"http://www.houseofan.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">restaurant group\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">—which now spans six locations in the Bay Area and Southern California—struggled through the pandemic.\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">One thing that helped keep the businesses afloat? They sold an awful lot of takeout garlic noodles.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13900946\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13900946\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/008_SanFrancisco_ThanhLong_08072021-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"A customer wearing a plastic bib prepares to dig in to a plate of garlic noodles.\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/008_SanFrancisco_ThanhLong_08072021-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/008_SanFrancisco_ThanhLong_08072021-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/008_SanFrancisco_ThanhLong_08072021-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/008_SanFrancisco_ThanhLong_08072021-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/008_SanFrancisco_ThanhLong_08072021-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/008_SanFrancisco_ThanhLong_08072021-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/008_SanFrancisco_ThanhLong_08072021-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/008_SanFrancisco_ThanhLong_08072021-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The garlic noodles at Thanh Long are the highlight of a multi-course crab feast. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[dropcap]T[/dropcap]hanh Long’s garlic noodles were a hit with customers from the beginning, but as Monique An tells it, the dish didn’t really become a phenomenon until the early ’90s. By that point, the Ans had opened Crustacean, a more upscale spinoff of Thanh Long on Polk Street featuring the same crab, the same noodles. The turning point, An says, was in December of 1991, when \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">San Jose Mercury News \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">food critic David Beck penned a glowing (if slightly unhinged) review of the restaurant with the headline, “Garlic Noodles Worth Marrying For.” “By the third forkful of Helene An’s garlic noodles I had a plan,” the review begins. “I would divorce my companion, marry An, get the recipe, divorce \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">her\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> and remarry companion No. 1.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">As Thanh Long’s popularity soared, it drew a diverse customer base—Russians and Filipinos and a wide range of other Asian Americans. The restaurant also \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/restaurants/article/For-generations-Thanh-Long-in-San-Francisco-s-14999095.php\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">became especially beloved by the Bay Area’s African American communities\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">—a trend An started noticing when she worked as a server there while still in high school, during the ’80s. It didn’t hurt that celebrities like Danny Glover became regulars. Eddie Murphy came through for a meal during the height of his popularity.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[pullquote size=\"large\" align=\"right\" citation=\"Monique An\"]“My mom lost everything two or three times in her life…And so she protected that recipe.”[/pullquote]More than that, though, Thanh Long became something of a status restaurant for everyday Black San Franciscans. It was the place folks would save up their money for when they wanted to celebrate a birthday or graduation. Boug Cali’s Tiffany Carter remembers being in middle school in the ’90s when her mother started bringing home Thanh Long’s garlic noodles anytime she passed through the Outer Sunset—excursions that were surprisingly frequent considering that, along with much of San Francisco’s Black population, Carter’s family lived all the way on the opposite side of town in Bayview-Hunters Point. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Nevertheless, at least within their community, Thanh Long was simply the hottest restaurant around back then. “If you ate at Thanh Long, you were baller status,” Carter says. “It’s still like that to this day.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13900952\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13900952\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/030_Oakland_ChefSmellys_08072021-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"A portrait of chef Edward Wooley outside of Oakland's Au Lounge, where he holds his pop-up, Chef Smelly's Creole and Soul Food\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1706\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/030_Oakland_ChefSmellys_08072021-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/030_Oakland_ChefSmellys_08072021-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/030_Oakland_ChefSmellys_08072021-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/030_Oakland_ChefSmellys_08072021-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/030_Oakland_ChefSmellys_08072021-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/030_Oakland_ChefSmellys_08072021-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/030_Oakland_ChefSmellys_08072021-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/030_Oakland_ChefSmellys_08072021-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Edward Wooley stands outside Oakland’s Au Lounge, where he holds his Chef Smelly’s pop-up. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Because the crab was expensive, it wasn’t a restaurant where regular folks could eat all the time. Edward Wooley, whose popular soul food business, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/chefsmelly/?hl=en\">Smelly’s Creole and Soul Food\u003c/a>, is \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/restaurants/article/The-legend-of-Chef-Smelly-and-Oakland-s-most-11191382.php\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">legendary in the Oakland pop-up scene\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, says he remembers that while growing up in East Oakland, it was mostly only “people hustling in the streets” who would have the money to get dressed up to go out for crab and garlic noodles. But the one meal he did eat at Crustacean, on Polk Street, in 1997 made a lasting impression.\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“I had the garlic noodles with the prawns,” Wooley says. “It was very, very memorable.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">So, when Wooley started his pop-up and catering business, it made sense that he’d eventually create his own version. One Valentine’s Day, back in 2013 or 2014, a catering customer asked if Wooley could make four plates of roast crab and garlic noodles—in part to save him a trip to Crustacean. At that point, Wooley had already been tinkering with his own garlic noodle recipe for years, developing a sweeter version made with fresh noodles and even more garlic than you might expect. He added it to the menu and people “went crazy for it” right away, Wooley says. Now, the noodles come with almost every combo plate.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13900954\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13900954\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/006_Oakland_ChefSmellys_08072021-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Edward Wooley tosses a batch of garlic noodles in a large metal bowl. \" width=\"2560\" height=\"1706\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/006_Oakland_ChefSmellys_08072021-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/006_Oakland_ChefSmellys_08072021-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/006_Oakland_ChefSmellys_08072021-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/006_Oakland_ChefSmellys_08072021-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/006_Oakland_ChefSmellys_08072021-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/006_Oakland_ChefSmellys_08072021-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/006_Oakland_ChefSmellys_08072021-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/006_Oakland_ChefSmellys_08072021-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Wooley tosses a batch of garlic noodles to distribute the buttery, garlicky sauce just right. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In the spirit of Crustacean and Thanh Long, Wooley’s pop-ups also offer the kind of over-the-top experience that people save up their money for—to celebrate special occasions with, say, a huge, heaping seafood platter for two that comes loaded over a whopping two pounds of garlic noodles. (Regulars know that carrying one of Chef Smelly’s hefty takeout boxes home is a workout in itself.) \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“My business is soul fusion,” Wooley says. “I take my Black seasonings and style, and mix it with the Asian cuisine. It’s a blend of everything.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Carter, on the other hand, says the version she makes at \u003ca href=\"https://bougcali.com/\">Boug Cali\u003c/a> is more of a straightforward homage. She uses oyster sauce, Maggi and Parmesan, and infuses fresh Gilroy garlic into the butter.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13900971\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-13900971 size-medium\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/BougCali_TiffanyCarter_crop-1-e1628569413255-800x1038.jpg\" alt=\"Boug Cali chef Tiffany Carter takes a selfie in the kitchen.\" width=\"800\" height=\"1038\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/BougCali_TiffanyCarter_crop-1-e1628569413255-800x1038.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/BougCali_TiffanyCarter_crop-1-e1628569413255-1020x1323.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/BougCali_TiffanyCarter_crop-1-e1628569413255-160x208.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/BougCali_TiffanyCarter_crop-1-e1628569413255-768x996.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/BougCali_TiffanyCarter_crop-1-e1628569413255.jpg 1171w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tiffany Carter has been eating Thanh Long’s garlic noodles since she was a kid. \u003ccite>(Tiffany Carter)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“She is the queen of garlic noodles,” Carter says of Helene An. “To this day, everyone is trying to make their garlic noodles stand up to Thanh Long.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Garlic noodles were one of the very first things Carter served when she started her business in 2010, and she says they remain her most requested item—especially among her Black customers. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The dish’s popularity within the Bay Area’s Black communities, specifically, helps explain why you’ll find it on the menu at so many of the region’s buzziest soul food spots—Smelly’s, Boug Cali, \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13895209/vegan-mob-oakland-mission-sf-expansion-food-truck-toriano-gordon-senor-sisig-vegano\">Vegan Mob\u003c/a>. Scroll through Instagram to find the most sought after informal soul food pop-ups in the area—folks selling out of their driveway or from the back of their pickup truck—and chances are, they’ll have garlic noodles on the menu too.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For Carter, garlic noodles are emblematic of the way she likes to cook, as someone who was raised on Southern soul food traditions but also grew up eating all of the different foods of the Bay Area. Boug Cali mixes all of those traditions: It serves jerk chicken tacos. It serves po’boys on Dutch Crunch bread.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“For us, Black people in California, we get asked, ‘Why are you not making soul food?’” Carter says. “This \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">is\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> soul food for us. It’s different from our grandparents’ generation. You’re going to find garlic noodles; you’re going to find Mexican food.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">By this point, then, garlic noodles have become a true crossover hit in the Bay Area—a food whose deliciousness and popularity far transcend the borders of the community where it originated, in the same way that other local staples like tacos, burritos and lumpia have been universally embraced. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Everyone is so pressed on authenticity,” Carter says. “Our generation is not going to have a cookout without garlic noodles. Ten out of ten, that’s what they want.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13900955\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13900955\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/016_Oakland_ChefSmellys_08072021-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"Overhead view of a plate of garlic noodles and roast crab.\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/016_Oakland_ChefSmellys_08072021-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/016_Oakland_ChefSmellys_08072021-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/016_Oakland_ChefSmellys_08072021-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/016_Oakland_ChefSmellys_08072021-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/016_Oakland_ChefSmellys_08072021-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/016_Oakland_ChefSmellys_08072021-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/016_Oakland_ChefSmellys_08072021-2048x1366.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/016_Oakland_ChefSmellys_08072021-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">One of Chef Smelly’s legendary seafood plates, piled high with garlic noodles. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[dropcap]T[/dropcap]hat kind of multicultural spirit is the driving force behind Noodle Belly, a new garlic noodle–centric restaurant in Oakland’s Fruitvale District specializing in “Bay Area comfort food.” One co-owner, Eugene Lee, is Korean American; the other, Kevyn Miyata, is Japanese American. Chef Jorge Concha (formerly of Camino) is Peruvian American.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The menu reflects that cultural mix: Asian-inflected crispy pork belly and popcorn chicken with Peruvian chile-lime accents. And every plate comes on a base of garlic noodles—an especially delicious butter-slicked version, with the fresh noodles cooked just right so they’re tender but also crisp at the edges. Even eaten with just a simple side of roasted mushrooms, they’re almost unspeakably luxurious.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The restaurant’s \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.noodlebelly.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">mix-and-match menu\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> speaks to another aspect of garlic noodles’ appeal: The earthy, deeply savory combination of butter, garlic and other umami-laden ingredients goes well with so many different types of food, whether you’re talking roast crab, Cajun blackened fish or Chinese-style slow-braised pork belly.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13900951\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13900951\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/noodle-belly_crop-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"Saucy garlic noodles are mixed with a pair of tongs at Noodle Belly.\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1600\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/noodle-belly_crop-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/noodle-belly_crop-800x500.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/noodle-belly_crop-1020x637.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/noodle-belly_crop-160x100.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/noodle-belly_crop-768x480.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/noodle-belly_crop-1536x960.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/noodle-belly_crop-2048x1280.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/noodle-belly_crop-1920x1200.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Saucy garlic noodles are the foundation of the menu at Noodle Belly, a new restaurant in Fruitvale. \u003ccite>(Noodle Belly)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Lee, for his part, subscribes to the “secret sauce” school of garlic noodle making (which is to say that all of the kitchen staff have to sign nondisclosure agreements to safeguard the recipe’s exact ingredients and proportions). But without question, Lee says, the inspiration is Thanh Long, whose story he has loved ever since he first heard about it as a kid growing up in San Francisco in the ’80s—the tale of a refugee family taking cooking techniques and ingredients from Vietnam and making them palatable for an American audience. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“It makes me so proud as a Bay Area resident and an Asian American,” Lee says.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Eventually, Lee’s restaurant will help anchor a 3,000-square-foot commissary kitchen called Korner, adjacent to a large courtyard where customers can enjoy their meals. The whole enterprise will be geared toward highlighting minority-owned businesses. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13898909,arts_13895488,arts_13895067']As for Noodle Belly itself, Lee hopes the restaurant can play a part in helping garlic noodles gain an even bigger audience. After all, Lee says, what was the last Bay Area-specific food product that made it big on the national stage? \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/11816328/birth-of-rice-a-roni-the-armenian-italian-treat\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Probably Rice-a-Roni\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. “Garlic noodles are going to be the next big thing,” he says.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In fact, the Noodle Belly team had Rice-a-Roni on their mind when they developed one of their newest products: a take-home kit version of their signature garlic noodles—everything you need to make a fresh batch at home in about ten minutes flat. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Of course it wouldn’t be accurate to say that garlic noodles only exist in the Bay Area. You can find something akin to the Thanh Long style fairly easily in Houston and Los Angeles and Louisiana—anywhere, really, that has a large Vietnamese population. Anyone with an internet connection can look up a recipe that comes pretty close.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">But it is also true that garlic noodles don’t appear to have taken off to the same extent, or crossed over outside the Vietnamese American community in the same way, anywhere else in the country. Nowhere else do you see as diverse a range of people cooking and eating garlic noodles. And there isn’t any other city or region that claims garlic noodles as its own unique, iconic dish.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13900953\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13900953\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/033_Oakland_ChefSmellys_08072021-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"Customers enjoy cocktails and heaping seafood platters at the Chef Smelly's pop-up.\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/033_Oakland_ChefSmellys_08072021-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/033_Oakland_ChefSmellys_08072021-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/033_Oakland_ChefSmellys_08072021-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/033_Oakland_ChefSmellys_08072021-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/033_Oakland_ChefSmellys_08072021-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/033_Oakland_ChefSmellys_08072021-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/033_Oakland_ChefSmellys_08072021-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/033_Oakland_ChefSmellys_08072021-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">So many of the Bay Area’s different communities come together to enjoy a plate of garlic noodles at Chef Smelly’s. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“I think it’s a very Bay Area thing,” says Andrea Nguyen, the cookbook author. And ultimately, she says, it’s easy to understand why the dish has caught on the way it has—and why, right now in 2021, it is in many ways the perfect dish.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“It’s that spirit of over-the-top. It’s that spirit of living large, of partying and having a good time,” Nguyen says. “During this late pandemic situation, what do we want to eat? We want to eat garlic noodles.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">No disrespect, then, to the burrito lover or the It’s-It connoisseur. If I ever find myself feeling homesick for the Bay, you’ll find me over here with a big plate of garlic noodles with roast crab, or blackened catfish, or smoked brisket. What could be more Bay Area than that?\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“People were inspired to create their own version,” Nguyen says of the dish’s proliferation throughout the Bay. “I think that’s a beautiful American thing.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Born at Thanh Long in the Outer Sunset, the dish’s popularity now spans multiple Bay Area cultures and cuisines.",
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"title": "How Garlic Noodles Became One of the Bay Area’s Most Iconic Foods | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class=\"utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__dropcapShortcode__dropcap\">I\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>f I were to put together a catalogue of quintessential Bay Area foods, I would include all of the usual suspects: the Mission burrito. Cioppino. The It’s-It. Maybe even the long-scorned clam chowder in a sourdough bread bowl. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">But though it’s rarely mentioned in these kinds of \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13900274/hitting-the-road-and-building-a-northern-california-bucket-list\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">bucket list\u003c/span>\u003c/a> \u003ca href=\"https://www.7x7.com/100-things-to-do-in-san-francisco-1781694627.html\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">compilations\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, I’d also be hard-pressed to leave off a cult favorite whose fandom spans multiple cultures and cuisines—all united by their mutual love of butter, garlic and a nice hit of good old-fashioned MSG. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I’m talking, of course, about garlic noodles. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Most closely associated with nostalgic Vietnamese seafood joints in San Francisco like \u003ca href=\"http://www.thanhlongsf.com/\">Thanh Long\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.ppqcrab.com/\">PPQ Dungeness Island\u003c/a>, the butter-soaked dish has a luxurious, over-the-top deliciousness that’s hard to match. Even more than that, the dish is emblematic of a whole generation of cooks who grew up in the multiethnic Bay Area, eating tacos and lumpia and Vietnamese roast crab, adapting all of those flavors into their own cuisine. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">To wit: I have ordered garlic noodles off of a Filipino food truck. I’ve had them served as a side dish for a brisket plate at a \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/burmabear/\">Burmese barbecue restaurant\u003c/a>. And, perhaps most strikingly, I’ve seen them on the menu at just about every hot new soul food pop-up that’s blown up in the past year or two. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Here in the Bay Area, Asian Americans love garlic noodles. Black and Latino folks love garlic noodles. Indeed, once you start looking for garlic noodles, it seems, you find them everywhere. They’re one of the most popular dishes at \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://bougcali.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Boug Cali\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, Tiffany Carter’s “West Coast Creole” food stall at the \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13895067/la-cocina-municipal-marketplace-food-hall-opening-tenderloin\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">La Cocina marketplace\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. And they are the foundation of the menu at \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.noodlebelly.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Noodle Belly\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, a new restaurant adjacent to the Fruitvale BART station in Oakland, where everything from crispy pork belly to Taiwanese-Peruvian popcorn chicken comes served over a tangle of the slick umami-packed noodles.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The story, then, of how a noodle dish born and popularized within San Francisco’s Vietnamese community—a product of immigrant ingenuity—spread across culinary borders to become one of the region’s most iconic foods is a uniquely Bay Area tale.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">As Boug Cali’s Carter puts it, “Garlic noodles are Bay Area as burritos or Dutch Crunch sandwiches.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13900945\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13900945\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/020_SanFrancisco_ThanhLong_08072021-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"A plate piled high with garlic noodles on a table, in front of a plate of whole roast crab.\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1706\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/020_SanFrancisco_ThanhLong_08072021-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/020_SanFrancisco_ThanhLong_08072021-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/020_SanFrancisco_ThanhLong_08072021-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/020_SanFrancisco_ThanhLong_08072021-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/020_SanFrancisco_ThanhLong_08072021-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/020_SanFrancisco_ThanhLong_08072021-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/020_SanFrancisco_ThanhLong_08072021-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/020_SanFrancisco_ThanhLong_08072021-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The iconic garlic noodles and roast crab at Thanh Long, the Vietnamese crab spot in the Outer Sunset. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class=\"utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__dropcapShortcode__dropcap\">O\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>f course no single restaurant or cuisine can lay claim to the idea of serving garlic and noodles together—that magical combination that forms the base for everything from Italian spaghetti aglio e olio to Chinese zhajiang mian. But Bay Area garlic noodle enthusiasts all seem to agree that the local take on the dish traces its origins to one of San Francisco’s very first Vietnamese restaurants: \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"http://www.thanhlongsf.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Thanh Long\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The tiny Outer Sunset spot was being run as an Italian deli when Diana An, a wealthy Vietnamese traveler passing through San Francisco, bought it on a whim in 1970. Fearful of the ongoing war back home, An wound up staying to run the restaurant, gradually adding a handful of Vietnamese-inspired dishes like the roast Dungeness crab that eventually became its claim to fame. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>But it wasn’t until the rest of the An family arrived in San Francisco as refugees in 1975—and after Diana’s daughter-in-law, Helene An, took over the kitchen—that Thanh Long became a full-on Vietnamese restaurant. In the 2016 cookbook that she co-wrote, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.runningpress.com/titles/helene-an/an-to-eat/9780762458356/\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">An: To Eat\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, Helene writes, “All we had left in the world was the strange, small Italian deli.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13900977\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 1163px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13900977\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/thanh-long_exterior1970s.jpg\" alt=\"Diana An (left) poses with her cousins outside her restaurant Thanh Long, circa 1975. \" width=\"1163\" height=\"1378\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/thanh-long_exterior1970s.jpg 1163w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/thanh-long_exterior1970s-800x948.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/thanh-long_exterior1970s-1020x1209.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/thanh-long_exterior1970s-160x190.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/thanh-long_exterior1970s-768x910.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1163px) 100vw, 1163px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Diana An (left) poses for a photo in front of her restaurant, Thanh Long, circa 1975. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of the An family)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Helene’s daughter Monique An, who now manages Thanh Long, recalls that her mother came up with the recipe for the garlic noodles sometime around 1978, having noticed how much her American customers loved pasta—especially, as Helene writes in the book, “pastas laden with cream and butter.” She set out to create a noodle dish that would be “healthier” (because of all of the garlic, if nothing else) and more appealing to her own Asian sensibilities.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“It wasn’t a typical Vietnamese dish,” Monique An says of the noodles. “[My mother] had a lot of French and European influences.” Indeed, An says, the style of garlic noodles that Helene began preparing at Thanh Long didn’t exist in Vietnam. It was Vietnamese American fusion food through and through—or “Euro-Asian,” as the Ans have phrased it in the restaurant’s marketing copy. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Andrea Nguyen, the \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/115191/the-pho-cookbook-interview-with-andrea-nguyen\">cookbook author and Vietnamese food expert\u003c/a>, says she does remember eating \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2019/03/15/dining/umami-noodles-recipe.html\">something similar in Vietnam\u003c/a> when she was a kid—a simple dish of noodles, garlic, Maggi seasoning and \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.vietworldkitchen.com/blog/2014/12/bretel-butter-beurre-bretel-cannned.html\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">cultured butter from a can\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> that she would make for herself after school. According to Nguyen, Thanh Long’s garlic noodles are like that dish “put on steroids,” especially when paired with the restaurant’s roast crab. “You’ve got the funk of the crab—the fattiness of it, the richness of it, the brininess—combined with butter, garlic, MSG [from the Maggi seasoning] and oyster sauce,” Nguyen says. “All of those things put together, it becomes this incredibly over-the-top dish that is special.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Thanh Long’s exact recipe remains shrouded in secrecy, even as restaurants all over the Bay Area have created very similar versions of the dish. Famously, the Ans don’t allow anyone outside of the family to cook the noodles (or other signature items like roast crab), instead prepping them in a secret kitchen tucked inside the main kitchen. And the garlic noodles are a glaring omission from the aforementioned An family cookbook.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13900947\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13900947\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/004_SanFrancisco_ThanhLong_08072021-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"A server picks up a plate of garlic noodles and a whole Dungeness crab from Thanh Long's hidden kitchen inside the main kitchen.\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/004_SanFrancisco_ThanhLong_08072021-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/004_SanFrancisco_ThanhLong_08072021-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/004_SanFrancisco_ThanhLong_08072021-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/004_SanFrancisco_ThanhLong_08072021-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/004_SanFrancisco_ThanhLong_08072021-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/004_SanFrancisco_ThanhLong_08072021-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/004_SanFrancisco_ThanhLong_08072021-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/004_SanFrancisco_ThanhLong_08072021-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A server picks up an order from inside Thanh Long’s secret kitchen, where family members prepare the garlic noodles and roast Dungeness crab. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Ambitious home cooks can, of course, find dozens of copycat recipes circulating on the internet. Almost all of them have the same basic components that Nguyen enumerates: butter, garlic and oyster sauce—often Maggi seasoning and sometimes a bit of Parmesan cheese as well. Monique An says she has tried following some of those recipes herself and thought they turned out well, even if they aren’t “quite the same.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“My mom lost everything two or three times in her life. She said she learned that everything you possess, like all your riches or jewels—you could lose all that,” An explains. “And so she protected that recipe. She said you can lose everything but your knowledge; that’s kind of her gift to us.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Indeed, An says, the family was worried that they were going to lose everything yet again this past year, as their \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"http://www.houseofan.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">restaurant group\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">—which now spans six locations in the Bay Area and Southern California—struggled through the pandemic.\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">One thing that helped keep the businesses afloat? They sold an awful lot of takeout garlic noodles.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13900946\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13900946\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/008_SanFrancisco_ThanhLong_08072021-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"A customer wearing a plastic bib prepares to dig in to a plate of garlic noodles.\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/008_SanFrancisco_ThanhLong_08072021-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/008_SanFrancisco_ThanhLong_08072021-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/008_SanFrancisco_ThanhLong_08072021-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/008_SanFrancisco_ThanhLong_08072021-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/008_SanFrancisco_ThanhLong_08072021-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/008_SanFrancisco_ThanhLong_08072021-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/008_SanFrancisco_ThanhLong_08072021-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/008_SanFrancisco_ThanhLong_08072021-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The garlic noodles at Thanh Long are the highlight of a multi-course crab feast. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class=\"utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__dropcapShortcode__dropcap\">T\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>hanh Long’s garlic noodles were a hit with customers from the beginning, but as Monique An tells it, the dish didn’t really become a phenomenon until the early ’90s. By that point, the Ans had opened Crustacean, a more upscale spinoff of Thanh Long on Polk Street featuring the same crab, the same noodles. The turning point, An says, was in December of 1991, when \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">San Jose Mercury News \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">food critic David Beck penned a glowing (if slightly unhinged) review of the restaurant with the headline, “Garlic Noodles Worth Marrying For.” “By the third forkful of Helene An’s garlic noodles I had a plan,” the review begins. “I would divorce my companion, marry An, get the recipe, divorce \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">her\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> and remarry companion No. 1.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">As Thanh Long’s popularity soared, it drew a diverse customer base—Russians and Filipinos and a wide range of other Asian Americans. The restaurant also \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/restaurants/article/For-generations-Thanh-Long-in-San-Francisco-s-14999095.php\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">became especially beloved by the Bay Area’s African American communities\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">—a trend An started noticing when she worked as a server there while still in high school, during the ’80s. It didn’t hurt that celebrities like Danny Glover became regulars. Eddie Murphy came through for a meal during the height of his popularity.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>More than that, though, Thanh Long became something of a status restaurant for everyday Black San Franciscans. It was the place folks would save up their money for when they wanted to celebrate a birthday or graduation. Boug Cali’s Tiffany Carter remembers being in middle school in the ’90s when her mother started bringing home Thanh Long’s garlic noodles anytime she passed through the Outer Sunset—excursions that were surprisingly frequent considering that, along with much of San Francisco’s Black population, Carter’s family lived all the way on the opposite side of town in Bayview-Hunters Point. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Nevertheless, at least within their community, Thanh Long was simply the hottest restaurant around back then. “If you ate at Thanh Long, you were baller status,” Carter says. “It’s still like that to this day.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13900952\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13900952\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/030_Oakland_ChefSmellys_08072021-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"A portrait of chef Edward Wooley outside of Oakland's Au Lounge, where he holds his pop-up, Chef Smelly's Creole and Soul Food\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1706\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/030_Oakland_ChefSmellys_08072021-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/030_Oakland_ChefSmellys_08072021-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/030_Oakland_ChefSmellys_08072021-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/030_Oakland_ChefSmellys_08072021-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/030_Oakland_ChefSmellys_08072021-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/030_Oakland_ChefSmellys_08072021-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/030_Oakland_ChefSmellys_08072021-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/030_Oakland_ChefSmellys_08072021-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Edward Wooley stands outside Oakland’s Au Lounge, where he holds his Chef Smelly’s pop-up. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Because the crab was expensive, it wasn’t a restaurant where regular folks could eat all the time. Edward Wooley, whose popular soul food business, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/chefsmelly/?hl=en\">Smelly’s Creole and Soul Food\u003c/a>, is \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/restaurants/article/The-legend-of-Chef-Smelly-and-Oakland-s-most-11191382.php\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">legendary in the Oakland pop-up scene\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, says he remembers that while growing up in East Oakland, it was mostly only “people hustling in the streets” who would have the money to get dressed up to go out for crab and garlic noodles. But the one meal he did eat at Crustacean, on Polk Street, in 1997 made a lasting impression.\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“I had the garlic noodles with the prawns,” Wooley says. “It was very, very memorable.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">So, when Wooley started his pop-up and catering business, it made sense that he’d eventually create his own version. One Valentine’s Day, back in 2013 or 2014, a catering customer asked if Wooley could make four plates of roast crab and garlic noodles—in part to save him a trip to Crustacean. At that point, Wooley had already been tinkering with his own garlic noodle recipe for years, developing a sweeter version made with fresh noodles and even more garlic than you might expect. He added it to the menu and people “went crazy for it” right away, Wooley says. Now, the noodles come with almost every combo plate.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13900954\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13900954\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/006_Oakland_ChefSmellys_08072021-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Edward Wooley tosses a batch of garlic noodles in a large metal bowl. \" width=\"2560\" height=\"1706\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/006_Oakland_ChefSmellys_08072021-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/006_Oakland_ChefSmellys_08072021-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/006_Oakland_ChefSmellys_08072021-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/006_Oakland_ChefSmellys_08072021-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/006_Oakland_ChefSmellys_08072021-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/006_Oakland_ChefSmellys_08072021-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/006_Oakland_ChefSmellys_08072021-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/006_Oakland_ChefSmellys_08072021-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Wooley tosses a batch of garlic noodles to distribute the buttery, garlicky sauce just right. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In the spirit of Crustacean and Thanh Long, Wooley’s pop-ups also offer the kind of over-the-top experience that people save up their money for—to celebrate special occasions with, say, a huge, heaping seafood platter for two that comes loaded over a whopping two pounds of garlic noodles. (Regulars know that carrying one of Chef Smelly’s hefty takeout boxes home is a workout in itself.) \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“My business is soul fusion,” Wooley says. “I take my Black seasonings and style, and mix it with the Asian cuisine. It’s a blend of everything.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Carter, on the other hand, says the version she makes at \u003ca href=\"https://bougcali.com/\">Boug Cali\u003c/a> is more of a straightforward homage. She uses oyster sauce, Maggi and Parmesan, and infuses fresh Gilroy garlic into the butter.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13900971\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-13900971 size-medium\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/BougCali_TiffanyCarter_crop-1-e1628569413255-800x1038.jpg\" alt=\"Boug Cali chef Tiffany Carter takes a selfie in the kitchen.\" width=\"800\" height=\"1038\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/BougCali_TiffanyCarter_crop-1-e1628569413255-800x1038.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/BougCali_TiffanyCarter_crop-1-e1628569413255-1020x1323.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/BougCali_TiffanyCarter_crop-1-e1628569413255-160x208.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/BougCali_TiffanyCarter_crop-1-e1628569413255-768x996.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/BougCali_TiffanyCarter_crop-1-e1628569413255.jpg 1171w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tiffany Carter has been eating Thanh Long’s garlic noodles since she was a kid. \u003ccite>(Tiffany Carter)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“She is the queen of garlic noodles,” Carter says of Helene An. “To this day, everyone is trying to make their garlic noodles stand up to Thanh Long.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Garlic noodles were one of the very first things Carter served when she started her business in 2010, and she says they remain her most requested item—especially among her Black customers. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The dish’s popularity within the Bay Area’s Black communities, specifically, helps explain why you’ll find it on the menu at so many of the region’s buzziest soul food spots—Smelly’s, Boug Cali, \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13895209/vegan-mob-oakland-mission-sf-expansion-food-truck-toriano-gordon-senor-sisig-vegano\">Vegan Mob\u003c/a>. Scroll through Instagram to find the most sought after informal soul food pop-ups in the area—folks selling out of their driveway or from the back of their pickup truck—and chances are, they’ll have garlic noodles on the menu too.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For Carter, garlic noodles are emblematic of the way she likes to cook, as someone who was raised on Southern soul food traditions but also grew up eating all of the different foods of the Bay Area. Boug Cali mixes all of those traditions: It serves jerk chicken tacos. It serves po’boys on Dutch Crunch bread.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“For us, Black people in California, we get asked, ‘Why are you not making soul food?’” Carter says. “This \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">is\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> soul food for us. It’s different from our grandparents’ generation. You’re going to find garlic noodles; you’re going to find Mexican food.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">By this point, then, garlic noodles have become a true crossover hit in the Bay Area—a food whose deliciousness and popularity far transcend the borders of the community where it originated, in the same way that other local staples like tacos, burritos and lumpia have been universally embraced. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Everyone is so pressed on authenticity,” Carter says. “Our generation is not going to have a cookout without garlic noodles. Ten out of ten, that’s what they want.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13900955\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13900955\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/016_Oakland_ChefSmellys_08072021-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"Overhead view of a plate of garlic noodles and roast crab.\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/016_Oakland_ChefSmellys_08072021-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/016_Oakland_ChefSmellys_08072021-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/016_Oakland_ChefSmellys_08072021-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/016_Oakland_ChefSmellys_08072021-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/016_Oakland_ChefSmellys_08072021-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/016_Oakland_ChefSmellys_08072021-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/016_Oakland_ChefSmellys_08072021-2048x1366.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/016_Oakland_ChefSmellys_08072021-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">One of Chef Smelly’s legendary seafood plates, piled high with garlic noodles. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class=\"utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__dropcapShortcode__dropcap\">T\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>hat kind of multicultural spirit is the driving force behind Noodle Belly, a new garlic noodle–centric restaurant in Oakland’s Fruitvale District specializing in “Bay Area comfort food.” One co-owner, Eugene Lee, is Korean American; the other, Kevyn Miyata, is Japanese American. Chef Jorge Concha (formerly of Camino) is Peruvian American.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The menu reflects that cultural mix: Asian-inflected crispy pork belly and popcorn chicken with Peruvian chile-lime accents. And every plate comes on a base of garlic noodles—an especially delicious butter-slicked version, with the fresh noodles cooked just right so they’re tender but also crisp at the edges. Even eaten with just a simple side of roasted mushrooms, they’re almost unspeakably luxurious.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The restaurant’s \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.noodlebelly.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">mix-and-match menu\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> speaks to another aspect of garlic noodles’ appeal: The earthy, deeply savory combination of butter, garlic and other umami-laden ingredients goes well with so many different types of food, whether you’re talking roast crab, Cajun blackened fish or Chinese-style slow-braised pork belly.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13900951\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13900951\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/noodle-belly_crop-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"Saucy garlic noodles are mixed with a pair of tongs at Noodle Belly.\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1600\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/noodle-belly_crop-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/noodle-belly_crop-800x500.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/noodle-belly_crop-1020x637.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/noodle-belly_crop-160x100.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/noodle-belly_crop-768x480.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/noodle-belly_crop-1536x960.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/noodle-belly_crop-2048x1280.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/noodle-belly_crop-1920x1200.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Saucy garlic noodles are the foundation of the menu at Noodle Belly, a new restaurant in Fruitvale. \u003ccite>(Noodle Belly)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Lee, for his part, subscribes to the “secret sauce” school of garlic noodle making (which is to say that all of the kitchen staff have to sign nondisclosure agreements to safeguard the recipe’s exact ingredients and proportions). But without question, Lee says, the inspiration is Thanh Long, whose story he has loved ever since he first heard about it as a kid growing up in San Francisco in the ’80s—the tale of a refugee family taking cooking techniques and ingredients from Vietnam and making them palatable for an American audience. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“It makes me so proud as a Bay Area resident and an Asian American,” Lee says.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Eventually, Lee’s restaurant will help anchor a 3,000-square-foot commissary kitchen called Korner, adjacent to a large courtyard where customers can enjoy their meals. The whole enterprise will be geared toward highlighting minority-owned businesses. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>As for Noodle Belly itself, Lee hopes the restaurant can play a part in helping garlic noodles gain an even bigger audience. After all, Lee says, what was the last Bay Area-specific food product that made it big on the national stage? \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/11816328/birth-of-rice-a-roni-the-armenian-italian-treat\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Probably Rice-a-Roni\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. “Garlic noodles are going to be the next big thing,” he says.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In fact, the Noodle Belly team had Rice-a-Roni on their mind when they developed one of their newest products: a take-home kit version of their signature garlic noodles—everything you need to make a fresh batch at home in about ten minutes flat. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Of course it wouldn’t be accurate to say that garlic noodles only exist in the Bay Area. You can find something akin to the Thanh Long style fairly easily in Houston and Los Angeles and Louisiana—anywhere, really, that has a large Vietnamese population. Anyone with an internet connection can look up a recipe that comes pretty close.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">But it is also true that garlic noodles don’t appear to have taken off to the same extent, or crossed over outside the Vietnamese American community in the same way, anywhere else in the country. Nowhere else do you see as diverse a range of people cooking and eating garlic noodles. And there isn’t any other city or region that claims garlic noodles as its own unique, iconic dish.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13900953\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13900953\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/033_Oakland_ChefSmellys_08072021-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"Customers enjoy cocktails and heaping seafood platters at the Chef Smelly's pop-up.\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/033_Oakland_ChefSmellys_08072021-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/033_Oakland_ChefSmellys_08072021-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/033_Oakland_ChefSmellys_08072021-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/033_Oakland_ChefSmellys_08072021-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/033_Oakland_ChefSmellys_08072021-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/033_Oakland_ChefSmellys_08072021-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/033_Oakland_ChefSmellys_08072021-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/033_Oakland_ChefSmellys_08072021-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">So many of the Bay Area’s different communities come together to enjoy a plate of garlic noodles at Chef Smelly’s. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“I think it’s a very Bay Area thing,” says Andrea Nguyen, the cookbook author. And ultimately, she says, it’s easy to understand why the dish has caught on the way it has—and why, right now in 2021, it is in many ways the perfect dish.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“It’s that spirit of over-the-top. It’s that spirit of living large, of partying and having a good time,” Nguyen says. “During this late pandemic situation, what do we want to eat? We want to eat garlic noodles.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">No disrespect, then, to the burrito lover or the It’s-It connoisseur. If I ever find myself feeling homesick for the Bay, you’ll find me over here with a big plate of garlic noodles with roast crab, or blackened catfish, or smoked brisket. What could be more Bay Area than that?\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“People were inspired to create their own version,” Nguyen says of the dish’s proliferation throughout the Bay. “I think that’s a beautiful American thing.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"title": "Oakland's Little Saigon Aims to Bounce Back With Good Food and Pokémon Go",
"headTitle": "Oakland’s Little Saigon Aims to Bounce Back With Good Food and Pokémon Go | KQED",
"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13900647\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13900647\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/IMG_8217-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"The owner of Mekong Restaurant holding a plate of Vietnamese food.\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/IMG_8217-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/IMG_8217-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/IMG_8217-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/IMG_8217-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/IMG_8217-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/IMG_8217-2048x1536.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/IMG_8217-1920x1440.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The owner of Mekong Restaurant holding a plate of Vietnamese food. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Good Good Eatz)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Oakland’s Eastlake Little Saigon neighborhood will be swarmed by adorable hordes of Bulbasaur and Butterfree this Saturday, accompanied by phone-toting trainers trying to catch ’em all—and perhaps get their COVID vaccination and eat a bowl of delicious pho while they’re at it. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">With Saturday’s event, dubbed \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/CSIQnsLBXy_/\">Summer Fest\u003c/a>, the East Bay-based community org \u003ca href=\"https://www.goodgoodeatz.com/\">Good Good Eatz\u003c/a> is tapping into the power of Pokémon Go to bring foot traffic back to the neighborhood’s restaurants and grocery stores. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Our mission is to help small food businesses, as well as business and cultural districts in Oakland, pivot into the 21st century,” says Tommy Wong, who runs Good Good Eatz along with co-founder Trinh Banh. \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Pokémon Go is still widely played nationally and internationally by a really diverse group of people. It definitely had its heyday when it first started, but it’s still going strong now. And so it’s a tremendous opportunity for us to connect Little Saigon with a way to attract more customers and bring vibrancy back to its streets and parks.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13895488']With help from Good Good Eatz, the Oakland Vietnamese Chamber of Commerce and San Francisco-based Pokémon Go developer Niantic, Little Saigon’s neighborhood fixtures are turning into temporary PokéStops and PokéGyms—congregation points for players looking for virtual goodies and battles. Participants include popular bo kho (\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13895488/pho-vy-oakland-vietnamese-tacos-quesabirria-bo-kho\">and fusion taco\u003c/a>) specialist Pho Vy, banh mi standard Cam Huong and pho joint Mekong Restaurant. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>More orthodox community outreach will be available at Clinton Park, in the heart of the neighborhood. Asian Health Services will provide COVID testing and vaccinations to visitors, and the Museum of Art and Digital Entertainment will set up a booth for visitors to sample retro video games.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13900643\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13900643\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/IMG_8218-800x800.jpg\" alt=\"A list of participating locations for Eastlake Little Saigon Summerfest\" width=\"800\" height=\"800\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/IMG_8218-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/IMG_8218-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/IMG_8218-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/IMG_8218.jpg 1000w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A list of participating locations for Eastlake Little Saigon Summerfest \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Good Good Eatz)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">It was the AAPI advocacy group National CAPACD that connected Wong with the creators of Pokémon Go. “Niantic was reaching out to them because of all the recent AAPI hate crimes with the very generous offer of turning any Asian-owned business in the U.S. or Canada into a PokéStop,” says Wong. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In a \u003ca href=\"https://nianticlabs.com/blog/stop-asian-hate/?hl=en\">statement\u003c/a> in support of the Stop Asian Hate movement from April, Niantic said it would “explore helping AAPI-owned businesses as part of our Niantic Local Business Recovery Initiative and the funding of programs that focus on keeping local AAPI communities safe and vibrant.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Niantic has been criticized for the \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.usatoday.com/story/tech/news/2016/08/09/pokemon-go-racist-app-redlining-communities-color-racist-pokestops-gyms/87732734/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">unequal distribution of PokéStops\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> between white and non-white neighborhoods since the app’s launch. \u003c/span>A 2016 \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/11054265/wanna-catch-pokemon-better-go-to-a-white-neighborhood\">map of PokéStops in Oakland\u003c/a> by the Urban Institute fits the typical pattern: a blizzard of stops and gyms downtown that trails off at the beginning of International Boulevard, where much of Oakland’s Vietnamese community makes their home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">While this Saturday’s PokéStops will be temporary, Wong hopes that businesses will sign up with Niantic to become a permanent part of the game. “We are trying to figure out models to disperse people, to have them wandering around neighborhoods again, to make it feel vibrant, because things have been shuttered, and people have been feeling down. We want to bring a sense of joy back into the district.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13900644\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13900644\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/IMG_8219-800x1033.jpg\" alt=\"A poster for Eastlake Little Saigon Summerfest\" width=\"800\" height=\"1033\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/IMG_8219-800x1033.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/IMG_8219-160x207.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/IMG_8219-768x992.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/IMG_8219.jpg 824w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A poster for Eastlake Little Saigon Summerfest \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Good Good Eatz)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Eastlake Little Saigon Summer Fest goes down on August 7, 11am–3pm, at Clinton Park (655 International Blvd., Oakland) and participating neighborhood businesses. \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/events/149371533963470/\">Details here\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13900647\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13900647\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/IMG_8217-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"The owner of Mekong Restaurant holding a plate of Vietnamese food.\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/IMG_8217-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/IMG_8217-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/IMG_8217-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/IMG_8217-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/IMG_8217-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/IMG_8217-2048x1536.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/IMG_8217-1920x1440.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The owner of Mekong Restaurant holding a plate of Vietnamese food. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Good Good Eatz)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Oakland’s Eastlake Little Saigon neighborhood will be swarmed by adorable hordes of Bulbasaur and Butterfree this Saturday, accompanied by phone-toting trainers trying to catch ’em all—and perhaps get their COVID vaccination and eat a bowl of delicious pho while they’re at it. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">With Saturday’s event, dubbed \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/CSIQnsLBXy_/\">Summer Fest\u003c/a>, the East Bay-based community org \u003ca href=\"https://www.goodgoodeatz.com/\">Good Good Eatz\u003c/a> is tapping into the power of Pokémon Go to bring foot traffic back to the neighborhood’s restaurants and grocery stores. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Our mission is to help small food businesses, as well as business and cultural districts in Oakland, pivot into the 21st century,” says Tommy Wong, who runs Good Good Eatz along with co-founder Trinh Banh. \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Pokémon Go is still widely played nationally and internationally by a really diverse group of people. It definitely had its heyday when it first started, but it’s still going strong now. And so it’s a tremendous opportunity for us to connect Little Saigon with a way to attract more customers and bring vibrancy back to its streets and parks.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>With help from Good Good Eatz, the Oakland Vietnamese Chamber of Commerce and San Francisco-based Pokémon Go developer Niantic, Little Saigon’s neighborhood fixtures are turning into temporary PokéStops and PokéGyms—congregation points for players looking for virtual goodies and battles. Participants include popular bo kho (\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13895488/pho-vy-oakland-vietnamese-tacos-quesabirria-bo-kho\">and fusion taco\u003c/a>) specialist Pho Vy, banh mi standard Cam Huong and pho joint Mekong Restaurant. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>More orthodox community outreach will be available at Clinton Park, in the heart of the neighborhood. Asian Health Services will provide COVID testing and vaccinations to visitors, and the Museum of Art and Digital Entertainment will set up a booth for visitors to sample retro video games.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13900643\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13900643\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/IMG_8218-800x800.jpg\" alt=\"A list of participating locations for Eastlake Little Saigon Summerfest\" width=\"800\" height=\"800\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/IMG_8218-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/IMG_8218-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/IMG_8218-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/IMG_8218.jpg 1000w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A list of participating locations for Eastlake Little Saigon Summerfest \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Good Good Eatz)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">It was the AAPI advocacy group National CAPACD that connected Wong with the creators of Pokémon Go. “Niantic was reaching out to them because of all the recent AAPI hate crimes with the very generous offer of turning any Asian-owned business in the U.S. or Canada into a PokéStop,” says Wong. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In a \u003ca href=\"https://nianticlabs.com/blog/stop-asian-hate/?hl=en\">statement\u003c/a> in support of the Stop Asian Hate movement from April, Niantic said it would “explore helping AAPI-owned businesses as part of our Niantic Local Business Recovery Initiative and the funding of programs that focus on keeping local AAPI communities safe and vibrant.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Niantic has been criticized for the \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.usatoday.com/story/tech/news/2016/08/09/pokemon-go-racist-app-redlining-communities-color-racist-pokestops-gyms/87732734/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">unequal distribution of PokéStops\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> between white and non-white neighborhoods since the app’s launch. \u003c/span>A 2016 \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/11054265/wanna-catch-pokemon-better-go-to-a-white-neighborhood\">map of PokéStops in Oakland\u003c/a> by the Urban Institute fits the typical pattern: a blizzard of stops and gyms downtown that trails off at the beginning of International Boulevard, where much of Oakland’s Vietnamese community makes their home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">While this Saturday’s PokéStops will be temporary, Wong hopes that businesses will sign up with Niantic to become a permanent part of the game. “We are trying to figure out models to disperse people, to have them wandering around neighborhoods again, to make it feel vibrant, because things have been shuttered, and people have been feeling down. We want to bring a sense of joy back into the district.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13900644\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13900644\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/IMG_8219-800x1033.jpg\" alt=\"A poster for Eastlake Little Saigon Summerfest\" width=\"800\" height=\"1033\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/IMG_8219-800x1033.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/IMG_8219-160x207.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/IMG_8219-768x992.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/08/IMG_8219.jpg 824w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A poster for Eastlake Little Saigon Summerfest \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Good Good Eatz)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Eastlake Little Saigon Summer Fest goes down on August 7, 11am–3pm, at Clinton Park (655 International Blvd., Oakland) and participating neighborhood businesses. \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/events/149371533963470/\">Details here\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "Fantastic Negrito’s Record Label Cooks Up Food-Filled Event to Support Oakland Youth",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">When the \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/10384842/oaklands-own-fantastic-negrito-wins-npr-tiny-desk-concert-contest\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Oakland musician Fantastic Negrito\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, a.k.a. Xavier Dphrepaulezz, started his new independent record label \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.storefrontrecords.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Storefront Records\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, he talked about how he wanted its West Oakland home base to be \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.storefrontrecords.com/crowdfunding\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">a resource for the local community\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. What better way to kick off that effort than by hosting free outdoor events in the building’s courtyard and parking lot at the corner of 34th Street and San Pablo Avenue?\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">So was born Storefront Market, a community-minded event series that takes place on the last Saturday afternoon of every month. Each iteration of the market has its own theme (say, a street food fair or a vinyl swap meet) and live music lineup—and, not for nothing, there’s always an abundance of tasty and reasonably priced food available for purchase. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The events are all meant to be family-friendly, but the edition coming up this Saturday, July 31, is \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">especially \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">focused on food, music and activities to appeal to kids. Fittingly, it’s called the Fountain of Youth Festival.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13895386']Adu Abraham, the event’s organizer, says it’s important to note that the festival’s immediate vicinity in West Oakland is largely a food desert. And there aren’t many other folks in the neighborhood putting together free events like this that pull in vendors from all over Oakland. “It’s welcoming enough that people feel comfortable to bring their kids or their dogs,” she says. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">As for the youth focus of Saturday’s event, it isn’t just a matter of setting up a crafts table or having someone in clown makeup tie animal balloons—not that there’s anything wrong with those things. (Indeed, the Fountain of Youth Festival will have a few hands-on activities like a drum workshop.) \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13900456\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 828px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13900456\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/storefront-market_drums.jpg\" alt=\"A young child tries playing African drums at an outdoor market.\" width=\"828\" height=\"707\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/storefront-market_drums.jpg 828w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/storefront-market_drums-800x683.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/storefront-market_drums-160x137.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/storefront-market_drums-768x656.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 828px) 100vw, 828px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A child plays a traditional drum at a previous Storefront Market event. \u003ccite>(Cheryl Alterman)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">But the biggest focus will be on providing opportunities for young people in Oakland to build a better future for themselves. In short, Abraham says, “the goal is to encourage financial literacy among the youth.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Toward that end, the majority of the vendors themselves will be teenagers, selling handmade earrings, second-hand clothing, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.crownbizoakland.com/about-us\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Jean-Michel Basquiat–inspired hats\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> and more. Food-wise, the headliners include a handful of talented young bakers from Oakland, including \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yahshibakes.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Yahshi Bakes\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, run by a \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://eastbayexpress.com/for-young-bakers-brick-and-mortars-are-no-longer-necessary-2-1/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">former Food Network \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Kids Baking Championship\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> runner-up\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, and \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/CPhJ4mdhrW0/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Culinary Kids\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, which specializes in lemon bars. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">No one would fault you for assembling an entire meal of those sweet treats, but for visitors looking for something more savory, the market has also brought in a couple of (grownup-run) ringers with cult followings among East Bay food lovers: Dela Curo will be selling its popular \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2020/10/7/21504224/dela-curo-japanese-black-curry-b-dama-chikara-ono\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Japanese black curry\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> and \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2020/12/2/21754408/sundo-japanese-fruit-sandwiches-milk-bread-choujuku-pan-chikara-ono-b-dama\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">milk bread fruit sandwiches\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. And barbecue specialist \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/eastoaklandsmoke/?hl=en\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">MexiQ\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> will sling its signature Mexican fusion smoked chicken and ribs.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“It’s free!” Abraham says of the event. “We’re here for the community to come through.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003ca href=\"https://www.storefrontrecords.com/storefront-market\">Storefront Market’s events\u003c/a> are held outside Storefront Records, at 3431 San Pablo Avenue, on the last Saturday of the month from noon–5pm. This month’s kid-focused Fountain of Youth Festival edition takes place on July 31.\u003c/span>\u003c/i> \u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Masks will be required for unvaccinated guests.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">When the \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/10384842/oaklands-own-fantastic-negrito-wins-npr-tiny-desk-concert-contest\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Oakland musician Fantastic Negrito\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, a.k.a. Xavier Dphrepaulezz, started his new independent record label \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.storefrontrecords.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Storefront Records\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, he talked about how he wanted its West Oakland home base to be \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.storefrontrecords.com/crowdfunding\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">a resource for the local community\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. What better way to kick off that effort than by hosting free outdoor events in the building’s courtyard and parking lot at the corner of 34th Street and San Pablo Avenue?\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">So was born Storefront Market, a community-minded event series that takes place on the last Saturday afternoon of every month. Each iteration of the market has its own theme (say, a street food fair or a vinyl swap meet) and live music lineup—and, not for nothing, there’s always an abundance of tasty and reasonably priced food available for purchase. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The events are all meant to be family-friendly, but the edition coming up this Saturday, July 31, is \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">especially \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">focused on food, music and activities to appeal to kids. Fittingly, it’s called the Fountain of Youth Festival.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>Adu Abraham, the event’s organizer, says it’s important to note that the festival’s immediate vicinity in West Oakland is largely a food desert. And there aren’t many other folks in the neighborhood putting together free events like this that pull in vendors from all over Oakland. “It’s welcoming enough that people feel comfortable to bring their kids or their dogs,” she says. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">As for the youth focus of Saturday’s event, it isn’t just a matter of setting up a crafts table or having someone in clown makeup tie animal balloons—not that there’s anything wrong with those things. (Indeed, the Fountain of Youth Festival will have a few hands-on activities like a drum workshop.) \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13900456\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 828px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13900456\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/storefront-market_drums.jpg\" alt=\"A young child tries playing African drums at an outdoor market.\" width=\"828\" height=\"707\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/storefront-market_drums.jpg 828w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/storefront-market_drums-800x683.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/storefront-market_drums-160x137.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/storefront-market_drums-768x656.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 828px) 100vw, 828px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A child plays a traditional drum at a previous Storefront Market event. \u003ccite>(Cheryl Alterman)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">But the biggest focus will be on providing opportunities for young people in Oakland to build a better future for themselves. In short, Abraham says, “the goal is to encourage financial literacy among the youth.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Toward that end, the majority of the vendors themselves will be teenagers, selling handmade earrings, second-hand clothing, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.crownbizoakland.com/about-us\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Jean-Michel Basquiat–inspired hats\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> and more. Food-wise, the headliners include a handful of talented young bakers from Oakland, including \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yahshibakes.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Yahshi Bakes\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, run by a \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://eastbayexpress.com/for-young-bakers-brick-and-mortars-are-no-longer-necessary-2-1/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">former Food Network \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Kids Baking Championship\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> runner-up\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, and \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/CPhJ4mdhrW0/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Culinary Kids\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, which specializes in lemon bars. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">No one would fault you for assembling an entire meal of those sweet treats, but for visitors looking for something more savory, the market has also brought in a couple of (grownup-run) ringers with cult followings among East Bay food lovers: Dela Curo will be selling its popular \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2020/10/7/21504224/dela-curo-japanese-black-curry-b-dama-chikara-ono\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Japanese black curry\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> and \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2020/12/2/21754408/sundo-japanese-fruit-sandwiches-milk-bread-choujuku-pan-chikara-ono-b-dama\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">milk bread fruit sandwiches\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. And barbecue specialist \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/eastoaklandsmoke/?hl=en\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">MexiQ\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> will sling its signature Mexican fusion smoked chicken and ribs.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“It’s free!” Abraham says of the event. “We’re here for the community to come through.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003ca href=\"https://www.storefrontrecords.com/storefront-market\">Storefront Market’s events\u003c/a> are held outside Storefront Records, at 3431 San Pablo Avenue, on the last Saturday of the month from noon–5pm. This month’s kid-focused Fountain of Youth Festival edition takes place on July 31.\u003c/span>\u003c/i> \u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Masks will be required for unvaccinated guests.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "Bryant Terry Doesn’t Want This Moment of Food Media Diversity to Be a Passing Fad",
"headTitle": "Bryant Terry Doesn’t Want This Moment of Food Media Diversity to Be a Passing Fad | KQED",
"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13900324\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13900324\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Bryant-Terry_bw-portrait-AOW-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"Black and white author headshot for Bryant Terry, posing in sunglasses.\" width=\"2560\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Bryant-Terry_bw-portrait-AOW-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Bryant-Terry_bw-portrait-AOW-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Bryant-Terry_bw-portrait-AOW-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Bryant-Terry_bw-portrait-AOW-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Bryant-Terry_bw-portrait-AOW-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Bryant-Terry_bw-portrait-AOW-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Bryant-Terry_bw-portrait-AOW-2048x2048.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Bryant-Terry_bw-portrait-AOW-1920x1920.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bryant Terry leads Ten Speed Press’s new imprint, Four Color Books, which focuses on BIPOC creators. \u003ccite>(Adrian Octavius Walker)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">If you roll in food activist circles here in the Bay Area, chances are pretty high that you’ve attended some marquee event emceed by Bryant Terry, or have one of his wildly successful \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/136244/veganism-isnt-restrictive-in-bryant-terrys-abundant-vegetable-kingdom\">cookbooks\u003c/a> on your bookshelf. Over the past two decades or so, the chef, author and activist has established himself as an elder statesman of the various Bay Area food movements. He is the Museum of the African Diaspora’s \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.moadsf.org/chef-in-residence/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">first ever chef-in-residence\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. He’s won a James Beard Award and an NAACP Image Award. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Indeed, i\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">n a food media landscape that remains\u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.theatlantic.com/culture/archive/2020/06/bon-appetit-and-why-table-stays-white/613093/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> inordinately white—and, in some cases, actively racist—\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Terry has put together \u003ca href=\"https://www.bryant-terry.com/accolades\">the kind of resume\u003c/a> that’s in a class of its own.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">And that, as Terry tells it, is a large part of the problem. Now, with Ten Speed Press’s recent announcement that he is \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://global.penguinrandomhouse.com/announcements/bryant-terry-to-launch-4-color-books-imprint-with-ten-speed-press/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">heading up a new imprint called 4 Color Books\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, which will focus primarily on publishing books by BIPOC chefs, writers, artists and activists, Terry wants to help provide the kinds of opportunities that were hard to come by when he was first starting out in the industry.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The imprint’s first book—curated and edited by Terry himself—is \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.penguinrandomhouse.com/books/671587/black-food-by-edited-by-bryant-terry/\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Black Food\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, a “recipe-driven anthology” exploring Black foodways across the African Diaspora, slated for release in October. It’s got an international list of contributors but is especially loaded with essays and recipes by Bay Area contributors like Miss Ollie’s chef-owner Sarah Kirnon and \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/21372187/bay-area-fine-dining-restaurants-racism-as-a-black-chef\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Selasie Dotse\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> (formerly of Lazy Bear). The imprint’s second book will be the debut cookbook for Oakland’s own 17-year-old “\u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/restaurants/article/Meet-Oakland-s-16-year-old-chef-prodigy-Rahanna-15146476.php\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">chef prodigy\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">,” and \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Top Chef Junior\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> finalist, Rahanna Bisseret Martinez.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13895601']Later in the fall, 4 Color will also host a huge Black food summit that Terry describes as an opportunity for a whole range of Black folks in the industry—chefs, authors, scholars—to gather together to learn new skills and build meaningful relationships with one another.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">When I caught up with Terry by phone recently, the Oakland resident spoke at length about his goals for the new imprint, which he hopes will help build a brighter, more sustainable future for people of color who are interested in working in food media.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">This interview has been edited for length and clarity.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Tell me about the origins of 4 Color and why you think it’s important for it to exist. What do you think you’ll be able to do with this sort of imprint that wouldn’t be possible by, say, just pushing for more diverse titles at the publishing house as a whole?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">My agent [Danielle Svetcov] and I have long had a vision of me having an imprint. Fast forward to 2020, when we had the uprisings [after George Floyd’s murder at the hands of a white police officer in Minneapolis, Minnesota] and also the revelation that many of these legacy food media institutions \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.businessinsider.com/bon-appetit-adam-rapoport-toxic-racism-culture-2020-6\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">had white supremacist and racist practices\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. For me, I just felt an urgency to write this \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Black Food\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> anthology that I put together with over 100 contributors throughout the African diaspora. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In the earliest stages, I was very clear that I wanted to have a mostly Black, if not all Black, creative team working on the book. We needed a Black designer who understood Black visual language and Black aesthetics and just understood Black history and had a Black viewpoint. But when it came time to put together the team, in terms of the photographer, food stylist and prop stylist—all the “below-the-line” people—it was a little disheartening because I could barely put together a short list of half a dozen super-talented food photographers that we felt like, “Yeah, this is who we want to work with.” And when you start talking about things like prop stylists and food stylists, the list gets even shorter.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">And so we pitched the imprint because I wanted to have an action arm of [4 Color] where we are really working to diversify food media. I was just like, this is a problem. This is beyond DEI. This is about changing structures and really putting in the elbow grease to ensure that we’re creating pipelines so that there will be more BIPOC folks who are food photographers, food stylists and prop stylists. Because the response typically is, “Well, there just aren’t enough out there. We looked, and we couldn’t find any,” or whatever excuses some of these publishers might have. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13900322\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13900322\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Bryant-Terry_BLACK-FOOD-COVER-scaled.jpg\" alt='Book cover with the words \"Black Food\" and \"Bryant Terry\" in colorful, blockish lettering.' width=\"2000\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Bryant-Terry_BLACK-FOOD-COVER-scaled.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Bryant-Terry_BLACK-FOOD-COVER-800x1024.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Bryant-Terry_BLACK-FOOD-COVER-1020x1305.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Bryant-Terry_BLACK-FOOD-COVER-160x205.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Bryant-Terry_BLACK-FOOD-COVER-768x983.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Bryant-Terry_BLACK-FOOD-COVER-1200x1536.jpg 1200w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Bryant-Terry_BLACK-FOOD-COVER-1600x2048.jpg 1600w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Bryant-Terry_BLACK-FOOD-COVER-1920x2457.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Black Food will be published in October. \u003ccite>(4 Color Books/Ten Speed Press)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Is it really that Black or BIPOC food stylists and prop stylists don’t \u003c/b>\u003cb>\u003ci>exist\u003c/i>\u003c/b>\u003cb>, then, or is it just that they haven’t had the opportunities to get experience working at the level—or with the stature of publication—that would allow them to be successful at the sort of roles that you were envisioning? \u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I think it’s a little bit of both. When you’re pulling from just a small handful of people, then the odds that you’re going to have a rich diversity of styles, approaches and aesthetics—it’s much slimmer. I think it’s about increasing the volume of Black or BIPOC people who are doing food photography, food styling and prop styling. It’s also about creating pipelines and mentorship opportunities. Because the photographers who are getting the big jobs, who are well established and respected, are mostly white men. That type of photography, you learn through mentorship, through being on set. You learn by doing. So it’s important for me to think about how we can connect people with these more experienced food creatives.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[pullquote size=\"large\" align=\"right\" citation=\"Bryant Terry\"]“This is beyond DEI. This is about changing structures and really putting in the elbow grease to ensure that we’re creating pipelines.”[/pullquote]We’re practicing it already. We’re getting pitches weekly from individuals who just email us directly, and we have people that we’ve been keeping our eye on for years who have a great story and whatever kinds of accolades and pedigrees. But they haven’t written a book. They don’t know anything about publishing.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I just feel like it’s one thing to talk about BIPOC folks needing those opportunities and another to really create an atmosphere where we’re nurturing people in that way. That’s something that we’re committed to doing.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>If we were to look back to 10 years ago, I think it would be fair to say that the situation for people of color—and for Black folks, in particular—in food media was pretty dismal as far as representation is concerned, whether we’re talking about \u003ca href=\"https://www.eater.com/2019/2/20/18226478/the-grill-restaurant-critics\">food criticism\u003c/a>, bylines in prestige publications or high-profile cookbooks. To what extent do you think things have changed or improved?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I mean, significantly. If you think about some of the most prestigious publications—for example, in the \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">New York Times\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, you have people like Yewande Komolafe, who’s on staff there, who’s really \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2019/06/24/dining/nigerian-food-yewande-komolafe.html\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">celebrating African food\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. You have Dawn Davis, who is now the editor in chief at \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Bon Appétit\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. Granted, they’re in a \u003ca href=\"https://www.eater.com/2020/6/10/21286688/bon-appetit-toxic-work-culture-of-racism\">crisis moment\u003c/a>, and they really didn’t have any other choice but to bring a BIPOC person on—but they made a great decision in bringing her on. I think about many of my friends who started off just writing for blogs or online publications, and now they’re getting bylines and writing huge cover stories for \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Food & Wine\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> and the \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">New York Times\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I think that we’ve seen movement, but there’s a lot of work to be done. Just historically when you have a protest moment like 2020, especially coupled with many of these institutions being embarrassed, then, of course they’re invested in repairing reputational harm. I’ll tell you what we’re going to see in the next couple years: We’re going to see a lot of books by Black food creatives, whether they be cookbooks or other food-related books. My question is when the window closes and folks feel comfortable again—when these institutions feel comfortable again—then what?\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">That’s why, for me in 2020, it was about seizing the moment to actually have some type of institutional power. These institutions are largely white in terms of the editors-in-chief, the people making decisions in the publishing houses and the people in the art departments. There just aren’t a lot of BIPOC folks, and so that’s why 4 Color, I hope, serves as an inspiring example of how we can move beyond just getting a check for projects and think about more sustainable ways that we can make structural change.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>I worry, too, that some of these changes in food media might wind up just being a passing fad—especially since, as you note, many of the people in the positions of greatest decision-making power are still white men. How can efforts like yours and those of folks like Stephen Satterfield [of \u003c/b>\u003ca href=\"https://www.whetstonemedia.co/\">\u003cb>Whetstone Media\u003c/b>\u003c/a>\u003cb> and the Netflix series \u003c/b>\u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2021/05/17/dining/osayi-endolyn-high-on-the-hog.html\">\u003cb>\u003ci>High on the Hog\u003c/i>\u003c/b>\u003c/a>\u003cb>]\u003c/b> \u003cb>move the needle in terms of creating a more sustainable future for Black creators and other people of color who want to be involved in food media?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I think we can look at Stephen’s Whetstone Media as an example: Coming off of the popularity of \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">High on the Hog\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, a couple of weeks ago he was doing a big fundraising push. What that says to me is that the success of these institutions hinges on funding. People need to have capital to actually fund the work and pay people to ensure their long-term sustainability.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">This is a larger conversation around these moments we’ve seen over the past year that confirmed a lot of suspicions that people have had about late-state capitalism not really caring about regular, everyday people. We can’t even get consistent stimulus checks! The gap between the richest among us and the rest of us has widened so much. So a lot of people are feeling like we can’t depend on these systems. We have to create our own parallel institutions that will ensure our well-being because if we wait around for the U.S. government—if we wait around for capitalism to save us—then we’ll be waiting forever. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> [aside postID=bayareabites_136244,bayareabites_136250 label='More on Bryant Terry']\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Something I’m very intentional about with the different authors that we’re working with is that I’m thinking beyond just one book—I’m thinking about the arc of the author’s career. I want to help bring them up to a level where they have—and pardon the colonialist language—their own empire. I want [17-year-old Oakland chef] Rahanna Bisseret Martinez’s book project to be the first of many. I want her to have a show; she \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">deserves\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> a show. Whatever she wants to do, I want her to feel like she has the support and mentorship to have a real thriving brand and business.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">All the work that I’m doing is just a formalizing of what I’ve been doing for the past two decades. I’ve always felt like it was important for me to pay it forward and mentor and support budding authors and other food creatives, because I was lucky enough to have that mentorship and support when I first started off. Now it feels good to actually be able to have some power to go beyond just giving advice, but to actually help support people’s careers.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13900324\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13900324\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Bryant-Terry_bw-portrait-AOW-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"Black and white author headshot for Bryant Terry, posing in sunglasses.\" width=\"2560\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Bryant-Terry_bw-portrait-AOW-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Bryant-Terry_bw-portrait-AOW-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Bryant-Terry_bw-portrait-AOW-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Bryant-Terry_bw-portrait-AOW-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Bryant-Terry_bw-portrait-AOW-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Bryant-Terry_bw-portrait-AOW-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Bryant-Terry_bw-portrait-AOW-2048x2048.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Bryant-Terry_bw-portrait-AOW-1920x1920.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bryant Terry leads Ten Speed Press’s new imprint, Four Color Books, which focuses on BIPOC creators. \u003ccite>(Adrian Octavius Walker)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">If you roll in food activist circles here in the Bay Area, chances are pretty high that you’ve attended some marquee event emceed by Bryant Terry, or have one of his wildly successful \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/136244/veganism-isnt-restrictive-in-bryant-terrys-abundant-vegetable-kingdom\">cookbooks\u003c/a> on your bookshelf. Over the past two decades or so, the chef, author and activist has established himself as an elder statesman of the various Bay Area food movements. He is the Museum of the African Diaspora’s \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.moadsf.org/chef-in-residence/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">first ever chef-in-residence\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. He’s won a James Beard Award and an NAACP Image Award. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Indeed, i\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">n a food media landscape that remains\u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.theatlantic.com/culture/archive/2020/06/bon-appetit-and-why-table-stays-white/613093/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> inordinately white—and, in some cases, actively racist—\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Terry has put together \u003ca href=\"https://www.bryant-terry.com/accolades\">the kind of resume\u003c/a> that’s in a class of its own.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">And that, as Terry tells it, is a large part of the problem. Now, with Ten Speed Press’s recent announcement that he is \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://global.penguinrandomhouse.com/announcements/bryant-terry-to-launch-4-color-books-imprint-with-ten-speed-press/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">heading up a new imprint called 4 Color Books\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, which will focus primarily on publishing books by BIPOC chefs, writers, artists and activists, Terry wants to help provide the kinds of opportunities that were hard to come by when he was first starting out in the industry.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The imprint’s first book—curated and edited by Terry himself—is \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.penguinrandomhouse.com/books/671587/black-food-by-edited-by-bryant-terry/\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Black Food\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, a “recipe-driven anthology” exploring Black foodways across the African Diaspora, slated for release in October. It’s got an international list of contributors but is especially loaded with essays and recipes by Bay Area contributors like Miss Ollie’s chef-owner Sarah Kirnon and \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/21372187/bay-area-fine-dining-restaurants-racism-as-a-black-chef\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Selasie Dotse\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> (formerly of Lazy Bear). The imprint’s second book will be the debut cookbook for Oakland’s own 17-year-old “\u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/restaurants/article/Meet-Oakland-s-16-year-old-chef-prodigy-Rahanna-15146476.php\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">chef prodigy\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">,” and \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Top Chef Junior\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> finalist, Rahanna Bisseret Martinez.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>Later in the fall, 4 Color will also host a huge Black food summit that Terry describes as an opportunity for a whole range of Black folks in the industry—chefs, authors, scholars—to gather together to learn new skills and build meaningful relationships with one another.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">When I caught up with Terry by phone recently, the Oakland resident spoke at length about his goals for the new imprint, which he hopes will help build a brighter, more sustainable future for people of color who are interested in working in food media.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">This interview has been edited for length and clarity.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Tell me about the origins of 4 Color and why you think it’s important for it to exist. What do you think you’ll be able to do with this sort of imprint that wouldn’t be possible by, say, just pushing for more diverse titles at the publishing house as a whole?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">My agent [Danielle Svetcov] and I have long had a vision of me having an imprint. Fast forward to 2020, when we had the uprisings [after George Floyd’s murder at the hands of a white police officer in Minneapolis, Minnesota] and also the revelation that many of these legacy food media institutions \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.businessinsider.com/bon-appetit-adam-rapoport-toxic-racism-culture-2020-6\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">had white supremacist and racist practices\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. For me, I just felt an urgency to write this \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Black Food\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> anthology that I put together with over 100 contributors throughout the African diaspora. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In the earliest stages, I was very clear that I wanted to have a mostly Black, if not all Black, creative team working on the book. We needed a Black designer who understood Black visual language and Black aesthetics and just understood Black history and had a Black viewpoint. But when it came time to put together the team, in terms of the photographer, food stylist and prop stylist—all the “below-the-line” people—it was a little disheartening because I could barely put together a short list of half a dozen super-talented food photographers that we felt like, “Yeah, this is who we want to work with.” And when you start talking about things like prop stylists and food stylists, the list gets even shorter.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">And so we pitched the imprint because I wanted to have an action arm of [4 Color] where we are really working to diversify food media. I was just like, this is a problem. This is beyond DEI. This is about changing structures and really putting in the elbow grease to ensure that we’re creating pipelines so that there will be more BIPOC folks who are food photographers, food stylists and prop stylists. Because the response typically is, “Well, there just aren’t enough out there. We looked, and we couldn’t find any,” or whatever excuses some of these publishers might have. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13900322\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13900322\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Bryant-Terry_BLACK-FOOD-COVER-scaled.jpg\" alt='Book cover with the words \"Black Food\" and \"Bryant Terry\" in colorful, blockish lettering.' width=\"2000\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Bryant-Terry_BLACK-FOOD-COVER-scaled.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Bryant-Terry_BLACK-FOOD-COVER-800x1024.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Bryant-Terry_BLACK-FOOD-COVER-1020x1305.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Bryant-Terry_BLACK-FOOD-COVER-160x205.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Bryant-Terry_BLACK-FOOD-COVER-768x983.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Bryant-Terry_BLACK-FOOD-COVER-1200x1536.jpg 1200w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Bryant-Terry_BLACK-FOOD-COVER-1600x2048.jpg 1600w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Bryant-Terry_BLACK-FOOD-COVER-1920x2457.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Black Food will be published in October. \u003ccite>(4 Color Books/Ten Speed Press)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Is it really that Black or BIPOC food stylists and prop stylists don’t \u003c/b>\u003cb>\u003ci>exist\u003c/i>\u003c/b>\u003cb>, then, or is it just that they haven’t had the opportunities to get experience working at the level—or with the stature of publication—that would allow them to be successful at the sort of roles that you were envisioning? \u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I think it’s a little bit of both. When you’re pulling from just a small handful of people, then the odds that you’re going to have a rich diversity of styles, approaches and aesthetics—it’s much slimmer. I think it’s about increasing the volume of Black or BIPOC people who are doing food photography, food styling and prop styling. It’s also about creating pipelines and mentorship opportunities. Because the photographers who are getting the big jobs, who are well established and respected, are mostly white men. That type of photography, you learn through mentorship, through being on set. You learn by doing. So it’s important for me to think about how we can connect people with these more experienced food creatives.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>We’re practicing it already. We’re getting pitches weekly from individuals who just email us directly, and we have people that we’ve been keeping our eye on for years who have a great story and whatever kinds of accolades and pedigrees. But they haven’t written a book. They don’t know anything about publishing.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I just feel like it’s one thing to talk about BIPOC folks needing those opportunities and another to really create an atmosphere where we’re nurturing people in that way. That’s something that we’re committed to doing.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>If we were to look back to 10 years ago, I think it would be fair to say that the situation for people of color—and for Black folks, in particular—in food media was pretty dismal as far as representation is concerned, whether we’re talking about \u003ca href=\"https://www.eater.com/2019/2/20/18226478/the-grill-restaurant-critics\">food criticism\u003c/a>, bylines in prestige publications or high-profile cookbooks. To what extent do you think things have changed or improved?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I mean, significantly. If you think about some of the most prestigious publications—for example, in the \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">New York Times\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, you have people like Yewande Komolafe, who’s on staff there, who’s really \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2019/06/24/dining/nigerian-food-yewande-komolafe.html\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">celebrating African food\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. You have Dawn Davis, who is now the editor in chief at \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Bon Appétit\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. Granted, they’re in a \u003ca href=\"https://www.eater.com/2020/6/10/21286688/bon-appetit-toxic-work-culture-of-racism\">crisis moment\u003c/a>, and they really didn’t have any other choice but to bring a BIPOC person on—but they made a great decision in bringing her on. I think about many of my friends who started off just writing for blogs or online publications, and now they’re getting bylines and writing huge cover stories for \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Food & Wine\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> and the \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">New York Times\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I think that we’ve seen movement, but there’s a lot of work to be done. Just historically when you have a protest moment like 2020, especially coupled with many of these institutions being embarrassed, then, of course they’re invested in repairing reputational harm. I’ll tell you what we’re going to see in the next couple years: We’re going to see a lot of books by Black food creatives, whether they be cookbooks or other food-related books. My question is when the window closes and folks feel comfortable again—when these institutions feel comfortable again—then what?\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">That’s why, for me in 2020, it was about seizing the moment to actually have some type of institutional power. These institutions are largely white in terms of the editors-in-chief, the people making decisions in the publishing houses and the people in the art departments. There just aren’t a lot of BIPOC folks, and so that’s why 4 Color, I hope, serves as an inspiring example of how we can move beyond just getting a check for projects and think about more sustainable ways that we can make structural change.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>I worry, too, that some of these changes in food media might wind up just being a passing fad—especially since, as you note, many of the people in the positions of greatest decision-making power are still white men. How can efforts like yours and those of folks like Stephen Satterfield [of \u003c/b>\u003ca href=\"https://www.whetstonemedia.co/\">\u003cb>Whetstone Media\u003c/b>\u003c/a>\u003cb> and the Netflix series \u003c/b>\u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2021/05/17/dining/osayi-endolyn-high-on-the-hog.html\">\u003cb>\u003ci>High on the Hog\u003c/i>\u003c/b>\u003c/a>\u003cb>]\u003c/b> \u003cb>move the needle in terms of creating a more sustainable future for Black creators and other people of color who want to be involved in food media?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I think we can look at Stephen’s Whetstone Media as an example: Coming off of the popularity of \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">High on the Hog\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, a couple of weeks ago he was doing a big fundraising push. What that says to me is that the success of these institutions hinges on funding. People need to have capital to actually fund the work and pay people to ensure their long-term sustainability.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">This is a larger conversation around these moments we’ve seen over the past year that confirmed a lot of suspicions that people have had about late-state capitalism not really caring about regular, everyday people. We can’t even get consistent stimulus checks! The gap between the richest among us and the rest of us has widened so much. So a lot of people are feeling like we can’t depend on these systems. We have to create our own parallel institutions that will ensure our well-being because if we wait around for the U.S. government—if we wait around for capitalism to save us—then we’ll be waiting forever. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> \u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Something I’m very intentional about with the different authors that we’re working with is that I’m thinking beyond just one book—I’m thinking about the arc of the author’s career. I want to help bring them up to a level where they have—and pardon the colonialist language—their own empire. I want [17-year-old Oakland chef] Rahanna Bisseret Martinez’s book project to be the first of many. I want her to have a show; she \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">deserves\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> a show. Whatever she wants to do, I want her to feel like she has the support and mentorship to have a real thriving brand and business.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">All the work that I’m doing is just a formalizing of what I’ve been doing for the past two decades. I’ve always felt like it was important for me to pay it forward and mentor and support budding authors and other food creatives, because I was lucky enough to have that mentorship and support when I first started off. Now it feels good to actually be able to have some power to go beyond just giving advice, but to actually help support people’s careers.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"slug": "molcaxitl-kitchen-taco-stand-outer-sunset-indigenous-mexican-food",
"title": "A New Taco Stand Is Bringing Indigenous Flavors to the Outer Sunset",
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"headTitle": "A New Taco Stand Is Bringing Indigenous Flavors to the Outer Sunset | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[dropcap]B[/dropcap]y 7:30am on Sundays, Nomar Ramirez is already bringing food to the people. To wake up half-asleep shoppers at the \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://sunsetmercantilesf.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Outer Sunset Farmers Market & Mercantile\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, Ramirez’s taco stand, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://molcaxitl.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Molcaxitl Kitchen\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, plays hip hop and cumbia. And, even more invigorating, it slings bold, pre-colonial Mexican flavors rarely found in the Bay Area.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Molcaxitl’s tacos are colorful: green, pink, red and brown all visible through the steam rising from hot, freshly pressed blue tortillas. But it’s the decadent turkey mole dripping from the tortilla that catches the eye—a nod to the wild turkeys that were eaten by Mexico’s Indigenous peoples before European colonizers brought chicken to the continent.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“You don’t eat mole in a taco,” Ramirez says of customers’ typical response to the dish. “People don’t understand that the Indigenous diet looked like this.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For Ramirez, cooking dishes like those mole tacos is healing. The 22-year-old college student at San Francisco State says it’s the least he can do to make San Francisco more like home. The tacos also reflect the core mission for Molcaxitl, which has made a splash in the ten months since it opened with its focus on Mexican foods that have Indigenous influences, many of them listed on the menu by their proper Indigenous names.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Ramirez identifies as Chicano, a term for U.S.-born Mexican Americans first popularized in the 1940s by Los Angeles-based Mexican Americans, who embraced an Indigenous Nahuatl word that described their Aztec homeland. The activist \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.latimes.com/california/story/1970-02-06/who-is-a-chicano-and-what-is-it-the-chicanos-want\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Ruben Salazar famously defined a Chicano as a Mexican American with a “non-Anglo vision of himself\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Ramirez, for his part, leans into that activist, political aspect of his Chicano identity. For him, creating space in the San Francisco food scene for Chicanos like himself means a good deal of at-times-awkward pioneering. It means making the movement more inclusive of what it means to be Mexican and Indigenous, and opening up a dialogue through food.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13900202\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13900202\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Molcaxitl_taco-plate_RickyRyanSilva-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"Gloved hands holding a takeout container with a single taco inside.\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1829\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Molcaxitl_taco-plate_RickyRyanSilva-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Molcaxitl_taco-plate_RickyRyanSilva-800x571.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Molcaxitl_taco-plate_RickyRyanSilva-1020x729.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Molcaxitl_taco-plate_RickyRyanSilva-160x114.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Molcaxitl_taco-plate_RickyRyanSilva-768x549.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Molcaxitl_taco-plate_RickyRyanSilva-1536x1097.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Molcaxitl_taco-plate_RickyRyanSilva-2048x1463.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Molcaxitl_taco-plate_RickyRyanSilva-1920x1371.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Nomar Ramirez shows off one of his indigenous-influenced tacos. \u003ccite>(Ricky Ryan Silva)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Born in Pasadena, Ramirez grew up in South Central Los Angeles. He remembers eating tacos at midnight with friends at one of what felt like two billion taquerias. For the past four years, though, he has found himself in a much less overtly Mexican area: the Outer Sunset.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Food was not always an obvious career option for the former engineering major. But when Ramirez was growing up in Los Angeles as the oldest of three siblings, cooking was always integral. Sincronizadas, a sandwich-style quesadilla consisting of two tortillas jammed with ham, bacon and Valentina hot sauce, was a particular favorite. “I’d make this preteen, greasy grub,” Ramirez laughs.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The women in his life taught him a lot, Ramirez says. In high school, he even spent a day at his aunt’s San Bernardino ranch fully processing a chicken from slaughter to platter. As a college student in San Francisco, he would have loved to work in a restaurant kitchen, but without a resume in cooking—and with COVID hobbling the economy—no employers were interested. Instead, Ramirez side-hustled his van into a moving business and started doing cooking tutorials on Instagram Live.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">While helping Sunset Mercantile co-founder Angie Petitt-Taylor move last year, Ramirez discovered \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://sunsetmercantilesf.com/about/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">she was opening a new farmers market on 37th Avenue.\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> It wound up being just the opportunity he’d been looking for. By this time, he had become a business major, but even before graduating he’d already gotten his business license for Molcaxitl Kitchen. In October, he bought a tent and started selling tacos every Sunday. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>A Tool for Social Change\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">At the same time, Ramirez’s classes at SF State were teaching him about what it meant to be Indigenous in California. He sent for a genetic tracing kit from “23 and Me.” The results said he was 40 percent Native American.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“That’s when I realized ‘Oh, I’m Native American,’” Ramirez says. “I had never felt connected as this Chicano kid from L.A.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">A sense of validation mingled with the perennial identity crisis that often afflicts mixed and displaced people. For Ramirez, it all pointed toward the plate. He saw that creating food with a reverence for Indigenous people could not only be edifying for his own sense of self, but that it could also serve as a tool for social change.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“I live in the Sunset and I’m dried out of all that Mexican shit that I grew up with,” Ramirez says. “Five years ago I wouldn’t have even thought my own family was Native. I want to bring fluidity to being Mexican.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13900203\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 1693px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13900203\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Molcaxitl_Nomar_RickyRyanSilva-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"Nomar Ramirez serves up a box of tacos at his farmers market stand in the Outer Sunset\" width=\"1693\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Molcaxitl_Nomar_RickyRyanSilva-scaled.jpg 1693w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Molcaxitl_Nomar_RickyRyanSilva-800x1210.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Molcaxitl_Nomar_RickyRyanSilva-1020x1542.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Molcaxitl_Nomar_RickyRyanSilva-160x242.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Molcaxitl_Nomar_RickyRyanSilva-768x1161.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Molcaxitl_Nomar_RickyRyanSilva-1016x1536.jpg 1016w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Molcaxitl_Nomar_RickyRyanSilva-1354x2048.jpg 1354w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Molcaxitl_Nomar_RickyRyanSilva-1920x2903.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1693px) 100vw, 1693px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Molcaxitl founder Nomar Ramirez serves up a box of tacos. \u003ccite>(Ricky Ryan Silva)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Every little detail about the taco stand is part of Ramirez’s effort to create space—to recreate the feeling of stepping into a Mexican grocery store. The feeling of cleaning the sauce off your plate with a tortilla (which Molcaxitl makes on the spot). The feeling of home.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Ramirez says, “I’m half Mexican. I’m half American. But I want that space to be a feeling of unity.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Toward that end, he also launched a live event called “To Be Latino,” held on Tuesday nights in the same location as the Outer Sunset Mercantile. Local businesses like La Reina Bakery and Mixcoatl Arts and Crafts, have a chance to showcase the beauty of Mexican cultura. Musicians like \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Chris “L7” Cuadrado keep it lively.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">As a Mexican who looks not even a little bit Mexican, I had a hard time not hyping Nomar up throughout our conversation. His work means the world to a multiethnic multi-hyphenate like myself. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The food, meanwhile, speaks for itself. The produce is sourced from local farmers on Saturdays for the food Molcaxitl sells on Sunday. The corn for the tortillas is heirloom blue, shipped from Mexico. The nectarine pico de gallo goes hard—it’s made with red onion, firm tomatoes and nectarines from Ponce Farms. “You can go up this block and buy from the people who grew this,” Ramirez says. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Ramirez likes to tell customers that plant-based food is the future, just \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.alternet.org/2017/07/traditional-indigenous-mexican-food-among-worlds-healthiest-its-misunderstood-us/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">as it was in Mexico in the past\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, during pre-colonial times, before European colonizers introduced so much meat into the local diet. And he’s happy to push those vegetable-forward dishes along in the Outer Sunset.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The chiles gueros, named for the light color of the pepper, really struck me. My brain anticipated chile rellenos, but instead I was served crisp, fresh peppers with coarse sea salt sprinkled on top. In another dish, a tamarind, cumin and pecan salsa\u003c/span> \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">worked to bring out the flavor in the squash flower. The dish was affordable, abundantly floral and frankly genius.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“The squash flower is super Mexican,” Ramirez says. “The zucchini is indigenous to North America. It’s used a lot in quesadillas, roasted with cheese. It’s big L.A. stuff, plus the Mexican roots.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13900204\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 1693px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13900204\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Molcaxitl-Totolin_RickyRyanSilva-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"Ladling broth over a plate of turkey birria\" width=\"1693\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Molcaxitl-Totolin_RickyRyanSilva-scaled.jpg 1693w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Molcaxitl-Totolin_RickyRyanSilva-800x1210.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Molcaxitl-Totolin_RickyRyanSilva-1020x1542.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Molcaxitl-Totolin_RickyRyanSilva-160x242.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Molcaxitl-Totolin_RickyRyanSilva-768x1161.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Molcaxitl-Totolin_RickyRyanSilva-1016x1536.jpg 1016w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Molcaxitl-Totolin_RickyRyanSilva-1354x2048.jpg 1354w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Molcaxitl-Totolin_RickyRyanSilva-1920x2903.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1693px) 100vw, 1693px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ladling broth over Molcaxitl’s totolin, or turkey birria. \u003ccite>(Ricky Ryan Silva)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">He’s received all kinds of reactions to his food. Some white people treat it as exotic. Some Mexican folks raise their eyebrows at those turkey mole tacos (\u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.pocchuc-restaurant.com/menu\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">though Ramirez is not the first San Francisco spot to serve the traditional Indigenous dish\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">). \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“They’re judgmental,” Ramirez says. “I’ve overheard people say ‘Nah, I want real Mexican food.’ They don’t speak to me like I’m Mexican.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">He’s found that fellow Chicanos, on the other hand, are more open. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Magaly Ramirez (no relation) joined the Molcaxitl team as soon as a job for a tortilla maker popped up on Instagram. She had frequented the new farmers market during the pandemic and was drawn in by Molcaxitl’s vegan options and its delicious horchata. “It’s funny because it’s just kids under a tent,” she says. “They’re all 20-year-olds.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">As a first-generation Mexican American from Los Angeles, she was inspired by how the food stall had brought its own particular take on Mexican cuisine to the Outer Sunset. “There’s always this push and pull of being Americanized and being in touch with your own culture,” Magaly says.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Dontaye Ball, owner and founder of \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/gumbosocial/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Gumbo Social\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, is another fan. As the vice president of the Bayview Merchant Association, he gave Ramirez feedback on his ideas when he was first setting up his farmers market booth. Recently, coming off a 45-day vegan cleanse, the first thing he ate was Molcaxitl’s turkey mole. “Slow-braised in a fantastic mole,” Ball says. “Hit all the right notes.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Xitlali Soto Ryan is another follower who found the Sunset Mercantile through Instagram. As a Latina and the daughter of artists, she finds the ambiance of Ramirez’s stall familiar: all of the colors, the flowers and the Jarritos on the table. She loves a drink made with cherries and tunas, a cactus fruit similar to dragon fruit. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“I know the importance of having to support your people,” Soto Ryan says. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Sharing the Vision\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Ramirez says he enjoys being on the street. If Molcaxitl were to go brick and mortar, however, he would want the food to feel fancier than it does right now. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID=arts_13899700,arts_13896221 label='More Mexican Food']“We’re trying to bring respect to Latino culture,” Ramirez says. “These recipes are complicated. Meanwhile, it’s France and Italy that get so much reverence.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">He says connecting with nature is key. “I would hope that people see Indigeneity as being a caretaker of the environment,” he says. “There’s a spiritual connection to that food. You are born from this dirt. It sustains you, and you sustain it.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">And he wants to expand to other farmers markets to share his vision of what it means to connect with the farm-to-plate movement in this critical way.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13900207\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13900207\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/molcaxitl_menu_rickyryansilva-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"The menu board for Molcaxitl set up in front of the Outer Sunset farmers market stand\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/molcaxitl_menu_rickyryansilva-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/molcaxitl_menu_rickyryansilva-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/molcaxitl_menu_rickyryansilva-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/molcaxitl_menu_rickyryansilva-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/molcaxitl_menu_rickyryansilva-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/molcaxitl_menu_rickyryansilva-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/molcaxitl_menu_rickyryansilva-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/molcaxitl_menu_rickyryansilva-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Molcaxitl’s menu features Indigenous words like totolin (turkey) and ayotli (zucchini). \u003ccite>(Ricky Ryan Silva)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Magaly Ramirez, the tortilla maker, says she’s still grappling with her own sense of identity. “I can never consider myself an Indigenous person,” she says. “Our food doesn’t follow the exact same practices. We use a propane stove. It’s more of an homage.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For the business’s 22-year-old founder, threading that needle of authenticity and acculturation is a day-by-day practice. Whether or not he’ll turn Molcaxitl Kitchen into a full-time career after graduation is still up in the air.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“I’m just figuring this shit out,” Ramirez says. “I’ve never even worked in a restaurant.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Molcaxitl Kitchen is open Sundays from 9am to 3pm on Sundays and Tuesdays from 3pm to 7pm.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Molcaxitl has made a splash with its turkey mole tacos and its strong sense of Chicano and Indigenous identity.",
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"title": "A New Taco Stand Is Bringing Indigenous Flavors to the Outer Sunset | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class=\"utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__dropcapShortcode__dropcap\">B\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>y 7:30am on Sundays, Nomar Ramirez is already bringing food to the people. To wake up half-asleep shoppers at the \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://sunsetmercantilesf.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Outer Sunset Farmers Market & Mercantile\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, Ramirez’s taco stand, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://molcaxitl.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Molcaxitl Kitchen\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, plays hip hop and cumbia. And, even more invigorating, it slings bold, pre-colonial Mexican flavors rarely found in the Bay Area.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Molcaxitl’s tacos are colorful: green, pink, red and brown all visible through the steam rising from hot, freshly pressed blue tortillas. But it’s the decadent turkey mole dripping from the tortilla that catches the eye—a nod to the wild turkeys that were eaten by Mexico’s Indigenous peoples before European colonizers brought chicken to the continent.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“You don’t eat mole in a taco,” Ramirez says of customers’ typical response to the dish. “People don’t understand that the Indigenous diet looked like this.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For Ramirez, cooking dishes like those mole tacos is healing. The 22-year-old college student at San Francisco State says it’s the least he can do to make San Francisco more like home. The tacos also reflect the core mission for Molcaxitl, which has made a splash in the ten months since it opened with its focus on Mexican foods that have Indigenous influences, many of them listed on the menu by their proper Indigenous names.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Ramirez identifies as Chicano, a term for U.S.-born Mexican Americans first popularized in the 1940s by Los Angeles-based Mexican Americans, who embraced an Indigenous Nahuatl word that described their Aztec homeland. The activist \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.latimes.com/california/story/1970-02-06/who-is-a-chicano-and-what-is-it-the-chicanos-want\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Ruben Salazar famously defined a Chicano as a Mexican American with a “non-Anglo vision of himself\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Ramirez, for his part, leans into that activist, political aspect of his Chicano identity. For him, creating space in the San Francisco food scene for Chicanos like himself means a good deal of at-times-awkward pioneering. It means making the movement more inclusive of what it means to be Mexican and Indigenous, and opening up a dialogue through food.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13900202\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13900202\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Molcaxitl_taco-plate_RickyRyanSilva-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"Gloved hands holding a takeout container with a single taco inside.\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1829\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Molcaxitl_taco-plate_RickyRyanSilva-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Molcaxitl_taco-plate_RickyRyanSilva-800x571.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Molcaxitl_taco-plate_RickyRyanSilva-1020x729.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Molcaxitl_taco-plate_RickyRyanSilva-160x114.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Molcaxitl_taco-plate_RickyRyanSilva-768x549.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Molcaxitl_taco-plate_RickyRyanSilva-1536x1097.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Molcaxitl_taco-plate_RickyRyanSilva-2048x1463.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Molcaxitl_taco-plate_RickyRyanSilva-1920x1371.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Nomar Ramirez shows off one of his indigenous-influenced tacos. \u003ccite>(Ricky Ryan Silva)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Born in Pasadena, Ramirez grew up in South Central Los Angeles. He remembers eating tacos at midnight with friends at one of what felt like two billion taquerias. For the past four years, though, he has found himself in a much less overtly Mexican area: the Outer Sunset.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Food was not always an obvious career option for the former engineering major. But when Ramirez was growing up in Los Angeles as the oldest of three siblings, cooking was always integral. Sincronizadas, a sandwich-style quesadilla consisting of two tortillas jammed with ham, bacon and Valentina hot sauce, was a particular favorite. “I’d make this preteen, greasy grub,” Ramirez laughs.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The women in his life taught him a lot, Ramirez says. In high school, he even spent a day at his aunt’s San Bernardino ranch fully processing a chicken from slaughter to platter. As a college student in San Francisco, he would have loved to work in a restaurant kitchen, but without a resume in cooking—and with COVID hobbling the economy—no employers were interested. Instead, Ramirez side-hustled his van into a moving business and started doing cooking tutorials on Instagram Live.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">While helping Sunset Mercantile co-founder Angie Petitt-Taylor move last year, Ramirez discovered \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://sunsetmercantilesf.com/about/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">she was opening a new farmers market on 37th Avenue.\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> It wound up being just the opportunity he’d been looking for. By this time, he had become a business major, but even before graduating he’d already gotten his business license for Molcaxitl Kitchen. In October, he bought a tent and started selling tacos every Sunday. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>A Tool for Social Change\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">At the same time, Ramirez’s classes at SF State were teaching him about what it meant to be Indigenous in California. He sent for a genetic tracing kit from “23 and Me.” The results said he was 40 percent Native American.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“That’s when I realized ‘Oh, I’m Native American,’” Ramirez says. “I had never felt connected as this Chicano kid from L.A.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">A sense of validation mingled with the perennial identity crisis that often afflicts mixed and displaced people. For Ramirez, it all pointed toward the plate. He saw that creating food with a reverence for Indigenous people could not only be edifying for his own sense of self, but that it could also serve as a tool for social change.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“I live in the Sunset and I’m dried out of all that Mexican shit that I grew up with,” Ramirez says. “Five years ago I wouldn’t have even thought my own family was Native. I want to bring fluidity to being Mexican.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13900203\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 1693px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13900203\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Molcaxitl_Nomar_RickyRyanSilva-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"Nomar Ramirez serves up a box of tacos at his farmers market stand in the Outer Sunset\" width=\"1693\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Molcaxitl_Nomar_RickyRyanSilva-scaled.jpg 1693w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Molcaxitl_Nomar_RickyRyanSilva-800x1210.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Molcaxitl_Nomar_RickyRyanSilva-1020x1542.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Molcaxitl_Nomar_RickyRyanSilva-160x242.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Molcaxitl_Nomar_RickyRyanSilva-768x1161.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Molcaxitl_Nomar_RickyRyanSilva-1016x1536.jpg 1016w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Molcaxitl_Nomar_RickyRyanSilva-1354x2048.jpg 1354w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Molcaxitl_Nomar_RickyRyanSilva-1920x2903.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1693px) 100vw, 1693px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Molcaxitl founder Nomar Ramirez serves up a box of tacos. \u003ccite>(Ricky Ryan Silva)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Every little detail about the taco stand is part of Ramirez’s effort to create space—to recreate the feeling of stepping into a Mexican grocery store. The feeling of cleaning the sauce off your plate with a tortilla (which Molcaxitl makes on the spot). The feeling of home.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Ramirez says, “I’m half Mexican. I’m half American. But I want that space to be a feeling of unity.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Toward that end, he also launched a live event called “To Be Latino,” held on Tuesday nights in the same location as the Outer Sunset Mercantile. Local businesses like La Reina Bakery and Mixcoatl Arts and Crafts, have a chance to showcase the beauty of Mexican cultura. Musicians like \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Chris “L7” Cuadrado keep it lively.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">As a Mexican who looks not even a little bit Mexican, I had a hard time not hyping Nomar up throughout our conversation. His work means the world to a multiethnic multi-hyphenate like myself. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The food, meanwhile, speaks for itself. The produce is sourced from local farmers on Saturdays for the food Molcaxitl sells on Sunday. The corn for the tortillas is heirloom blue, shipped from Mexico. The nectarine pico de gallo goes hard—it’s made with red onion, firm tomatoes and nectarines from Ponce Farms. “You can go up this block and buy from the people who grew this,” Ramirez says. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Ramirez likes to tell customers that plant-based food is the future, just \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.alternet.org/2017/07/traditional-indigenous-mexican-food-among-worlds-healthiest-its-misunderstood-us/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">as it was in Mexico in the past\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, during pre-colonial times, before European colonizers introduced so much meat into the local diet. And he’s happy to push those vegetable-forward dishes along in the Outer Sunset.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The chiles gueros, named for the light color of the pepper, really struck me. My brain anticipated chile rellenos, but instead I was served crisp, fresh peppers with coarse sea salt sprinkled on top. In another dish, a tamarind, cumin and pecan salsa\u003c/span> \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">worked to bring out the flavor in the squash flower. The dish was affordable, abundantly floral and frankly genius.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“The squash flower is super Mexican,” Ramirez says. “The zucchini is indigenous to North America. It’s used a lot in quesadillas, roasted with cheese. It’s big L.A. stuff, plus the Mexican roots.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13900204\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 1693px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13900204\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Molcaxitl-Totolin_RickyRyanSilva-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"Ladling broth over a plate of turkey birria\" width=\"1693\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Molcaxitl-Totolin_RickyRyanSilva-scaled.jpg 1693w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Molcaxitl-Totolin_RickyRyanSilva-800x1210.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Molcaxitl-Totolin_RickyRyanSilva-1020x1542.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Molcaxitl-Totolin_RickyRyanSilva-160x242.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Molcaxitl-Totolin_RickyRyanSilva-768x1161.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Molcaxitl-Totolin_RickyRyanSilva-1016x1536.jpg 1016w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Molcaxitl-Totolin_RickyRyanSilva-1354x2048.jpg 1354w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Molcaxitl-Totolin_RickyRyanSilva-1920x2903.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1693px) 100vw, 1693px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ladling broth over Molcaxitl’s totolin, or turkey birria. \u003ccite>(Ricky Ryan Silva)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">He’s received all kinds of reactions to his food. Some white people treat it as exotic. Some Mexican folks raise their eyebrows at those turkey mole tacos (\u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.pocchuc-restaurant.com/menu\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">though Ramirez is not the first San Francisco spot to serve the traditional Indigenous dish\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">). \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“They’re judgmental,” Ramirez says. “I’ve overheard people say ‘Nah, I want real Mexican food.’ They don’t speak to me like I’m Mexican.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">He’s found that fellow Chicanos, on the other hand, are more open. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Magaly Ramirez (no relation) joined the Molcaxitl team as soon as a job for a tortilla maker popped up on Instagram. She had frequented the new farmers market during the pandemic and was drawn in by Molcaxitl’s vegan options and its delicious horchata. “It’s funny because it’s just kids under a tent,” she says. “They’re all 20-year-olds.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">As a first-generation Mexican American from Los Angeles, she was inspired by how the food stall had brought its own particular take on Mexican cuisine to the Outer Sunset. “There’s always this push and pull of being Americanized and being in touch with your own culture,” Magaly says.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Dontaye Ball, owner and founder of \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/gumbosocial/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Gumbo Social\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, is another fan. As the vice president of the Bayview Merchant Association, he gave Ramirez feedback on his ideas when he was first setting up his farmers market booth. Recently, coming off a 45-day vegan cleanse, the first thing he ate was Molcaxitl’s turkey mole. “Slow-braised in a fantastic mole,” Ball says. “Hit all the right notes.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Xitlali Soto Ryan is another follower who found the Sunset Mercantile through Instagram. As a Latina and the daughter of artists, she finds the ambiance of Ramirez’s stall familiar: all of the colors, the flowers and the Jarritos on the table. She loves a drink made with cherries and tunas, a cactus fruit similar to dragon fruit. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“I know the importance of having to support your people,” Soto Ryan says. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Sharing the Vision\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Ramirez says he enjoys being on the street. If Molcaxitl were to go brick and mortar, however, he would want the food to feel fancier than it does right now. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>“We’re trying to bring respect to Latino culture,” Ramirez says. “These recipes are complicated. Meanwhile, it’s France and Italy that get so much reverence.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">He says connecting with nature is key. “I would hope that people see Indigeneity as being a caretaker of the environment,” he says. “There’s a spiritual connection to that food. You are born from this dirt. It sustains you, and you sustain it.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">And he wants to expand to other farmers markets to share his vision of what it means to connect with the farm-to-plate movement in this critical way.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13900207\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13900207\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/molcaxitl_menu_rickyryansilva-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"The menu board for Molcaxitl set up in front of the Outer Sunset farmers market stand\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/molcaxitl_menu_rickyryansilva-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/molcaxitl_menu_rickyryansilva-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/molcaxitl_menu_rickyryansilva-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/molcaxitl_menu_rickyryansilva-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/molcaxitl_menu_rickyryansilva-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/molcaxitl_menu_rickyryansilva-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/molcaxitl_menu_rickyryansilva-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/molcaxitl_menu_rickyryansilva-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Molcaxitl’s menu features Indigenous words like totolin (turkey) and ayotli (zucchini). \u003ccite>(Ricky Ryan Silva)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Magaly Ramirez, the tortilla maker, says she’s still grappling with her own sense of identity. “I can never consider myself an Indigenous person,” she says. “Our food doesn’t follow the exact same practices. We use a propane stove. It’s more of an homage.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For the business’s 22-year-old founder, threading that needle of authenticity and acculturation is a day-by-day practice. Whether or not he’ll turn Molcaxitl Kitchen into a full-time career after graduation is still up in the air.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“I’m just figuring this shit out,” Ramirez says. “I’ve never even worked in a restaurant.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Molcaxitl Kitchen is open Sundays from 9am to 3pm on Sundays and Tuesdays from 3pm to 7pm.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"info": "What kind of no sabo word is Hyphenación? For us, it’s about living within a hyphenation. Like being a third-gen Mexican-American from the Texas border now living that Bay Area Chicano life. Like Xorje! Each week we bring together a couple of hyphenated Latinos to talk all about personal life choices: family, careers, relationships, belonging … everything is on the table. ",
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"info": "The Political Mind of Jerry Brown brings listeners the wisdom of the former Governor, Mayor, and presidential candidate. Scott Shafer interviewed Brown for more than 40 hours, covering the former governor's life and half-century in the political game – and Brown has some lessons he'd like to share. ",
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"info": "The MindShift podcast explores the innovations in education that are shaping how kids learn. Hosts Ki Sung and Katrina Schwartz introduce listeners to educators, researchers, parents and students who are developing effective ways to improve how kids learn. We cover topics like how fed-up administrators are developing surprising tactics to deal with classroom disruptions; how listening to podcasts are helping kids develop reading skills; the consequences of overparenting; and why interdisciplinary learning can engage students on all ends of the traditional achievement spectrum. This podcast is part of the MindShift education site, a division of KQED News. KQED is an NPR/PBS member station based in San Francisco. You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>",
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"info": "For decades, the process for how police police themselves has been inconsistent – if not opaque. In some states, like California, these proceedings were completely hidden. After a new police transparency law unsealed scores of internal affairs files, our reporters set out to examine these cases and the shadow world of police discipline. On Our Watch brings listeners into the rooms where officers are questioned and witnesses are interrogated to find out who this system is really protecting. Is it the officers, or the public they've sworn to serve?",
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"info": "Political Breakdown is a new series that explores the political intersection of California and the nation. Each week hosts Scott Shafer and Marisa Lagos are joined with a new special guest to unpack politics -- with personality — and offer an insider’s glimpse at how politics happens.",
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"possible": {
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"info": "Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.",
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"radiolab": {
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},
"rightnowish": {
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"title": "Rightnowish",
"tagline": "Art is where you find it",
"info": "Rightnowish digs into life in the Bay Area right now… ish. Journalist Pendarvis Harshaw takes us to galleries painted on the sides of liquor stores in West Oakland. We'll dance in warehouses in the Bayview, make smoothies with kids in South Berkeley, and listen to classical music in a 1984 Cutlass Supreme in Richmond. Every week, Pen talks to movers and shakers about how the Bay Area shapes what they create, and how they shape the place we call home.",
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"info": "The Snap Judgment radio show and podcast mixes real stories with killer beats to produce cinematic, dramatic radio. Snap's musical brand of storytelling dares listeners to see the world through the eyes of another. This is storytelling... with a BEAT!! Snap first aired on public radio stations nationwide in July 2010. Today, Snap Judgment airs on over 450 public radio stations and is brought to the airwaves by KQED & PRX.",
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"soldout": {
"id": "soldout",
"title": "SOLD OUT: Rethinking Housing in America",
"tagline": "A new future for housing",
"info": "Sold Out: Rethinking Housing in America",
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