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"content": "\u003cp>More than 100 million people in the United States are expected to watch the Super Bowl this weekend. Some will tune in for the football, others for \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13873945/the-weird-and-not-very-wonderful-history-of-the-super-bowl-halftime-show\">the half-time show\u003c/a> or the commercials, and some \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13951795/super-bowl-bay-area-taylor-swift-fans-travis-kelce-49ers\">just to see Taylor Swift\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But there’s one thing \u003cem>most\u003c/em> people will do: Eat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postid='arts_13951795']Some restaurants have been preparing for this moment for months.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We would talk to our meat vendor over the summer and ask them to freeze pallets of wings or at least pre-purchase for us at a certain, agreed-up on price,” says Marc Schechter, owner of \u003ca href=\"https://squarepieguys.com/\">Square Pie Guys\u003c/a> pizza in San Francisco — home of the 49s who face off against the Kansas City Chiefs on Sunday. “We were trying very early on to lock in a lower price.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Schechter expects to go through a whole lot of wings this weekend, along with a couple thousand pounds of mozzarella cheese for his deep-dish pizzas. He and his team began battering wings on Thursday, days before the big game.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That planning will help, as fans are expected to splurge. Whether ordering out for pizza and wings or cooking up nachos at home, the average Super Bowl fan is expected to spend about $43 on food and drinks this Sunday, \u003ca href=\"https://www.circana.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/02/2024-Super-Bowl-Spend.pdf\">according to the market research firm Circana\u003c/a>. That’s 23% more than last year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“It’s a celebration,” says Circana vice president Joan Driggs. “You’re going to do what you want to do. Maybe it’s your tradition. Maybe you’re adding a little something to the mix to spice it up. But people are going to go all in.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It helps that wages are now outpacing inflation and food prices have moderated over the last year. Wings, in particular, are plentiful this season and prices have fallen for the second year in a row. \u003ca href=\"https://www.wellsfargo.com/com/insights/agri-food-intelligence/wells-fargo-reveals-top-pick-super-bowl/#:~:text=The%202024%20Super%20Bowl%20celebration,a%20touchdown%20in%20job%20growth.\">Research from Wells Fargo \u003c/a>shows fresh chicken wing prices have dropped about 5% from last year while the price of frozen wings has fallen about 11%.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Kansas City restaurant expects brisk business for its hickory-smoked ribs and brisket\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>Beef prices, on the other hand, continue to climb, as cattle ranchers slowly rebuild their herds after years of drought. That means Chiefs fans may have to pay more for a Kansas City strip steak or barbecued ribs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nevertheless, Gates Bar-B-Q in Kansas City expects to do a brisk take-out business this weekend.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“‘There’s so many people that are coming in from out of town for friends and family,” says Arzelia Gates, whose grandfather started the barbecue business almost 80 years ago. “We are very much a part of that.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postid='arts_13951768']Gates says even with elevated beef prices, customers are hungry for the restaurant’s hickory-smoked ribs and brisket.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We use three stages so it gives you the tenderness of the meat,” she says. “And then we get that smoky flavor throughout.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Although grocery prices are still high, they haven’t increased much in the past year — just 1.3% overall. And some foods, like shrimp, have actually gotten cheaper.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Some people are going to get lucky this year,” says Michael Swanson, a food economist at Wells Fargo. “The people that love shrimp are lucky and the guys who have to have that burger are going to pay a little bit more.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13952029\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13952029\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/gettyimages-1369643597-376a83033e6763d50d4d923872a90e2d2380e079-scaled-e1707504593665.jpg\" alt=\"Avocados, cut in half.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1439\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Grocery prices have risen just 1.3% over the last year, while wages have jumped more than three times as fast. \u003ccite>(Justin Sullivan/ Getty Images)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Beer and guacamole are ok, but chips and dip are more expensive\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>Guacamole and beer prices are essentially flat — rising less than 1% over the last year. (This is one case where “flat” in connection with beer is a good thing.) But prices are still climbing for other Super Bowl staples such as chips and dip and especially soft drinks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Soda prices have risen sharply since the beginning of the pandemic, which is partly the result of costly aluminum cans.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Super Bowl hosts “might want to think about those 2-liter bottles with some ice and some cups,” Swanson says. “They really save you a lot of money.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postid='arts_13873945']While savvy shoppers may try to save on some items, Swanson expects a lot of people to spend freely this Super Bowl. They’ve got money in their pockets, since wages have risen faster than food prices this past year. And there are 2.9 million more jobs now than there were a year ago.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“For all the issues that we have — and they’re real issues — people have to appreciate the fact that it’s going to be a blowout Super Bowl,” Swanson says. “Most people, when they have a job they’re going to spend money.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Restaurant owners Schechter and Gates say it’s a super opportunity to eat, drink and celebrate, no matter which team you’re rooting for.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Go ‘Niners,” Schechter says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And Gates chimes in, “Go Chiefs.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cdiv class=\"fullattribution\">\u003cem>Copyright 2024 NPR. To see more, \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org\">visit NPR\u003c/a>.\u003cimg decoding=\"async\" src=\"https://www.google-analytics.com/__utm.gif?utmac=UA-5828686-4&utmdt=Good+thing%2C+wings+cost+less+and+beer%27s+flat%3A+Super+Bowl+fans+are+expected+to+splurge+&utme=8(APIKey)9(MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004)\">\u003c/em>\u003c/div>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That planning will help, as fans are expected to splurge. Whether ordering out for pizza and wings or cooking up nachos at home, the average Super Bowl fan is expected to spend about $43 on food and drinks this Sunday, \u003ca href=\"https://www.circana.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/02/2024-Super-Bowl-Spend.pdf\">according to the market research firm Circana\u003c/a>. That’s 23% more than last year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“It’s a celebration,” says Circana vice president Joan Driggs. “You’re going to do what you want to do. Maybe it’s your tradition. Maybe you’re adding a little something to the mix to spice it up. But people are going to go all in.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It helps that wages are now outpacing inflation and food prices have moderated over the last year. Wings, in particular, are plentiful this season and prices have fallen for the second year in a row. \u003ca href=\"https://www.wellsfargo.com/com/insights/agri-food-intelligence/wells-fargo-reveals-top-pick-super-bowl/#:~:text=The%202024%20Super%20Bowl%20celebration,a%20touchdown%20in%20job%20growth.\">Research from Wells Fargo \u003c/a>shows fresh chicken wing prices have dropped about 5% from last year while the price of frozen wings has fallen about 11%.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Kansas City restaurant expects brisk business for its hickory-smoked ribs and brisket\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>Beef prices, on the other hand, continue to climb, as cattle ranchers slowly rebuild their herds after years of drought. That means Chiefs fans may have to pay more for a Kansas City strip steak or barbecued ribs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nevertheless, Gates Bar-B-Q in Kansas City expects to do a brisk take-out business this weekend.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“‘There’s so many people that are coming in from out of town for friends and family,” says Arzelia Gates, whose grandfather started the barbecue business almost 80 years ago. “We are very much a part of that.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>Gates says even with elevated beef prices, customers are hungry for the restaurant’s hickory-smoked ribs and brisket.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We use three stages so it gives you the tenderness of the meat,” she says. “And then we get that smoky flavor throughout.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Although grocery prices are still high, they haven’t increased much in the past year — just 1.3% overall. And some foods, like shrimp, have actually gotten cheaper.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Some people are going to get lucky this year,” says Michael Swanson, a food economist at Wells Fargo. “The people that love shrimp are lucky and the guys who have to have that burger are going to pay a little bit more.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13952029\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13952029\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/gettyimages-1369643597-376a83033e6763d50d4d923872a90e2d2380e079-scaled-e1707504593665.jpg\" alt=\"Avocados, cut in half.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1439\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Grocery prices have risen just 1.3% over the last year, while wages have jumped more than three times as fast. \u003ccite>(Justin Sullivan/ Getty Images)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Beer and guacamole are ok, but chips and dip are more expensive\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>Guacamole and beer prices are essentially flat — rising less than 1% over the last year. (This is one case where “flat” in connection with beer is a good thing.) But prices are still climbing for other Super Bowl staples such as chips and dip and especially soft drinks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Soda prices have risen sharply since the beginning of the pandemic, which is partly the result of costly aluminum cans.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Super Bowl hosts “might want to think about those 2-liter bottles with some ice and some cups,” Swanson says. “They really save you a lot of money.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>While savvy shoppers may try to save on some items, Swanson expects a lot of people to spend freely this Super Bowl. They’ve got money in their pockets, since wages have risen faster than food prices this past year. And there are 2.9 million more jobs now than there were a year ago.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“For all the issues that we have — and they’re real issues — people have to appreciate the fact that it’s going to be a blowout Super Bowl,” Swanson says. “Most people, when they have a job they’re going to spend money.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Restaurant owners Schechter and Gates say it’s a super opportunity to eat, drink and celebrate, no matter which team you’re rooting for.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Go ‘Niners,” Schechter says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And Gates chimes in, “Go Chiefs.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cdiv class=\"fullattribution\">\u003cem>Copyright 2024 NPR. To see more, \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org\">visit NPR\u003c/a>.\u003cimg decoding=\"async\" src=\"https://www.google-analytics.com/__utm.gif?utmac=UA-5828686-4&utmdt=Good+thing%2C+wings+cost+less+and+beer%27s+flat%3A+Super+Bowl+fans+are+expected+to+splurge+&utme=8(APIKey)9(MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004)\">\u003c/em>\u003c/div>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "Some of the Bay Area’s Best Garlic Butter Crab Is Served in San Bruno After Midnight",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13951921\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13951921\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Untitled_Artwork-3.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration of two men in glasses eating Dungeness crab enthusiastically, breaking it apart with their hands. They're wearing plastic gloves.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Untitled_Artwork-3.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Untitled_Artwork-3-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Untitled_Artwork-3-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Untitled_Artwork-3-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Untitled_Artwork-3-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Untitled_Artwork-3-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Dungeness crab and garlic noodles at San Bruno’s A-One Kitchen hold their own against any restaurant in the Bay — and they’re available until 1 a.m. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/the-midnight-diners\">The Midnight Diners\u003c/a> is a regular collaboration between KQED food editor Luke Tsai and artist Thien Pham. Follow them each week as they explore the hot pot restaurants, taco carts and 24-hour casino buffets that make up the Bay Area’s after-hours dining scene.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There’s late-night food you’re grateful for because it fills your belly when everything else is closed. And then there’s what they serve at San Bruno’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.aonekitchensanbrunoca.com/\">A-One Kitchen and Bar\u003c/a> until 1 a.m. every night: heaping platters of garlic butter crab and garlic noodles that are so delicious, I’d be willing to travel a long distance to eat them, at any time of day.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sleepy downtown San Bruno doesn’t \u003ci>seem \u003c/i>like an obvious nexus for late-night dining — or it doesn’t, anyway, until you drive down San Mateo Avenue on a Friday night and see \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/artichoke_joes_casino/\">Artichoke Joe’s\u003c/a>, the city’s 100-plus-year-old casino, looming brightly over the horizon. Spend a few minutes watching the poker players shuffle out, maybe a bit woozy after a bad beat, and then the cluster of restaurants slinging relatively inexpensive, calorie-intensive food well past midnight starts to make perfect sense.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Located directly across the street from the casino, A-One Kitchen looks much like how I imagined a little family-run, late-night Thai-Chinese spot might look — a cheerful mix of red leather booths, bright lights (from five or six different sources, half of them blinking) and live sports on TV. The menu is a similarly lively hodgepodge of different Asian cuisines: red curries from Thailand and short rib pho from Vietnam, stir-fried eggplant oomphed up with funky Malaysian belacan and good old-fashioned American Chinese broccoli beef.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But we had come with a single-minded purpose: to try the garlic butter Dungeness crab (market price, which turned out to be $48 for a strapping 2.5-pound specimen) and a side of garlic noodles.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Friends, this is the kind of crab feast you dream about. The crab comes out a little less saucy than similarly garlic-and-butter-laden versions you’ll find at Viet seafood icons like Thanh Long and PPQ, but perfectly juicy and topped with about twice as much chopped garlic — a salty, umami-laden counterpoint to the crab’s sweet, succulent flesh. Donning plastic gloves, we tore that crustacean apart with our hands in about 20 minutes flat, leaving behind nothing but an empty carcass and a stack of hollowed-out limbs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13951926\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13951926\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Untitled_Artwork-2-1.jpg\" alt='Illustration of the exterior of a restaurant on a rainy day. The sign reads, \"A-ONE BAR\"' width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Untitled_Artwork-2-1.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Untitled_Artwork-2-1-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Untitled_Artwork-2-1-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Untitled_Artwork-2-1-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Untitled_Artwork-2-1-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Untitled_Artwork-2-1-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The restaurant is located directly across the street from the Artichoke Joe’s casino. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>At A-One Kitchen, the crab comes with French fries on the plate, a kind of ingenious addition that gives you something crispy and starchy to dip in that garlicky mash. But you’ll also want to order a bowl of white rice so that you have something to mix with the rich, creamy crab fat that lines the inside of the carapace. (IYKYK: crab fat rice might be the best part of the entire meal.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">\u003cb>\u003cstrong>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13951382,arts_13900855,arts_13923127']\u003c/span>\u003c/strong>\u003c/b>\u003c/span>And, even if triple-carbing it seems outrageous, you also definitely need to order the garlic noodles, which are some of the best I’ve had — thick, chewy, super-savory (not sweet like some places) and extra-extra-garlicky. \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13900855/garlic-noodles-sf-bay-area-iconic-foods-thanh-long-smellys\">It’s the ideal complement to Dungeness crab\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Is this the best garlic butter crab and garlic noodles you can snag after midnight in the Bay Area? I’d put money on it. Is it the best garlic crab and garlic noodles you can get in the Bay at any time of day whatsoever?? Also, quite possibly, yes! It belongs in the conversation, at the very least.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The quality of the food at A-One Kitchen helps explain why the crowd is a little bit more mixed than what you often find at late-night restaurants. Yes, sports bros sitting at the bar who seemed to have wandered over from the casino, but also elderly Asian couples enjoying a bowl of hot soup. Add to that the warm friendliness of the service — “How \u003ci>are\u003c/i> you? Long time no see!” to every other customer, it seemed — and I could really see myself becoming a regular.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-12127869\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.aonekitchensanbrunoca.com/\">\u003ci>A-One Kitchen and Bar\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is open 5 p.m.–1 a.m. daily, except for Wednesdays, when the restaurant is closed.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13951921\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13951921\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Untitled_Artwork-3.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration of two men in glasses eating Dungeness crab enthusiastically, breaking it apart with their hands. They're wearing plastic gloves.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Untitled_Artwork-3.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Untitled_Artwork-3-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Untitled_Artwork-3-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Untitled_Artwork-3-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Untitled_Artwork-3-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Untitled_Artwork-3-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Dungeness crab and garlic noodles at San Bruno’s A-One Kitchen hold their own against any restaurant in the Bay — and they’re available until 1 a.m. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/the-midnight-diners\">The Midnight Diners\u003c/a> is a regular collaboration between KQED food editor Luke Tsai and artist Thien Pham. Follow them each week as they explore the hot pot restaurants, taco carts and 24-hour casino buffets that make up the Bay Area’s after-hours dining scene.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There’s late-night food you’re grateful for because it fills your belly when everything else is closed. And then there’s what they serve at San Bruno’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.aonekitchensanbrunoca.com/\">A-One Kitchen and Bar\u003c/a> until 1 a.m. every night: heaping platters of garlic butter crab and garlic noodles that are so delicious, I’d be willing to travel a long distance to eat them, at any time of day.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sleepy downtown San Bruno doesn’t \u003ci>seem \u003c/i>like an obvious nexus for late-night dining — or it doesn’t, anyway, until you drive down San Mateo Avenue on a Friday night and see \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/artichoke_joes_casino/\">Artichoke Joe’s\u003c/a>, the city’s 100-plus-year-old casino, looming brightly over the horizon. Spend a few minutes watching the poker players shuffle out, maybe a bit woozy after a bad beat, and then the cluster of restaurants slinging relatively inexpensive, calorie-intensive food well past midnight starts to make perfect sense.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Located directly across the street from the casino, A-One Kitchen looks much like how I imagined a little family-run, late-night Thai-Chinese spot might look — a cheerful mix of red leather booths, bright lights (from five or six different sources, half of them blinking) and live sports on TV. The menu is a similarly lively hodgepodge of different Asian cuisines: red curries from Thailand and short rib pho from Vietnam, stir-fried eggplant oomphed up with funky Malaysian belacan and good old-fashioned American Chinese broccoli beef.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But we had come with a single-minded purpose: to try the garlic butter Dungeness crab (market price, which turned out to be $48 for a strapping 2.5-pound specimen) and a side of garlic noodles.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Friends, this is the kind of crab feast you dream about. The crab comes out a little less saucy than similarly garlic-and-butter-laden versions you’ll find at Viet seafood icons like Thanh Long and PPQ, but perfectly juicy and topped with about twice as much chopped garlic — a salty, umami-laden counterpoint to the crab’s sweet, succulent flesh. Donning plastic gloves, we tore that crustacean apart with our hands in about 20 minutes flat, leaving behind nothing but an empty carcass and a stack of hollowed-out limbs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13951926\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13951926\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Untitled_Artwork-2-1.jpg\" alt='Illustration of the exterior of a restaurant on a rainy day. The sign reads, \"A-ONE BAR\"' width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Untitled_Artwork-2-1.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Untitled_Artwork-2-1-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Untitled_Artwork-2-1-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Untitled_Artwork-2-1-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Untitled_Artwork-2-1-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/Untitled_Artwork-2-1-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The restaurant is located directly across the street from the Artichoke Joe’s casino. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>At A-One Kitchen, the crab comes with French fries on the plate, a kind of ingenious addition that gives you something crispy and starchy to dip in that garlicky mash. But you’ll also want to order a bowl of white rice so that you have something to mix with the rich, creamy crab fat that lines the inside of the carapace. (IYKYK: crab fat rice might be the best part of the entire meal.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">\u003cb>\u003cstrong>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/strong>\u003c/b>\u003c/span>And, even if triple-carbing it seems outrageous, you also definitely need to order the garlic noodles, which are some of the best I’ve had — thick, chewy, super-savory (not sweet like some places) and extra-extra-garlicky. \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13900855/garlic-noodles-sf-bay-area-iconic-foods-thanh-long-smellys\">It’s the ideal complement to Dungeness crab\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Is this the best garlic butter crab and garlic noodles you can snag after midnight in the Bay Area? I’d put money on it. Is it the best garlic crab and garlic noodles you can get in the Bay at any time of day whatsoever?? Also, quite possibly, yes! It belongs in the conversation, at the very least.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The quality of the food at A-One Kitchen helps explain why the crowd is a little bit more mixed than what you often find at late-night restaurants. Yes, sports bros sitting at the bar who seemed to have wandered over from the casino, but also elderly Asian couples enjoying a bowl of hot soup. Add to that the warm friendliness of the service — “How \u003ci>are\u003c/i> you? Long time no see!” to every other customer, it seemed — and I could really see myself becoming a regular.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-12127869\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.aonekitchensanbrunoca.com/\">\u003ci>A-One Kitchen and Bar\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is open 5 p.m.–1 a.m. daily, except for Wednesdays, when the restaurant is closed.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cem>The Taste of Things\u003c/em> should come with a warning: Audiences may be tempted to abandon work as they know it and start a beautiful, calm new life in the French countryside devoted to the culinary arts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postid='arts_13951641']There is something rather cruel about releasing a film this lovely and voyeuristic in the dead of February, in which the cinematic gardens are lush, the game is fresh, the atmosphere is tranquil, the distractions are non-existent, the conversations are intellectual and the goal is shared. But maybe that’s why we need movies like this. It’s pure escapism and the cost of the movie ticket is slightly more affordable.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The film is fictional, a sort of prequel to Marcel Rouff’s \u003cem>The Life and Passion of Dodin-Bouffant, Gourmet \u003c/em>from 1924, itself loosely inspired by 19th century French epicure Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin. But the food is real, imagined by three-star chef Pierre Gagnaire and prepared on set by Michel Nave. Far from that ugly, almost meaningless phrase “food porn,” \u003cem>The Taste of Things\u003c/em> is a cinematic expression of the art of cuisine. The sounds of cooking provide the score. The visuals seem to transcend the screen in a very mystical way.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cKKCGtoIOVY\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Director and screenwriter Trần Anh Hùng and cinematographer Jonathan Ricquebourg use the camera as almost a sous chef, letting the audience feel like they’re in the flurry of everything in the kitchen as well. It is not chaotic like \u003cem>The Bear\u003c/em> or any number of those shouty reality shows. This is more like a ballet — precise, delicate and quiet. And the luminous Juliette Binoche is the regal principal, guiding the proceedings with grace and a slightly undone bun.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, there’s a story here, too, the side dish to the main course, which focuses on Dodin’s (Benoît Magimel) relationship with his cook Eugénie (Binoche). Theirs is a long and deep companionship, forged by a shared passion for food and a mutual respect that belies normal dynamics between boss and employee. It is kind of the ultimate in intimacy, being on the same page about quality and pairings and the seemingly very mundane, ordinary question of “What are we eating tonight?” Dodin wants to marry her. She refuses. It’s a conversation they’ve probably had many times before and perhaps why the dynamic continues to work.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postid='arts_13950994']There is a moving story in here about love in ones “autumn years” as Dodin calls it. Everything is understated and lovely, including their very adult conversations about marriage and the right to lock their doors at night. There are some tropey flourishes, too, like a precocious young girl reciting flavor notes with suspicious specificity, and foreshadowing illness by showing a character who suddenly feels faint. They stand out as common choices in a film that is anything but.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hùng won the best director award for \u003cem>The Taste of Things\u003c/em> at the Cannes Film Festival last year, and it was selected to represent France in the Oscars but was passed over for a nomination. This technicality should not dissuade anyone from being interested in the film — just a reminder of how unfair it is that all of world cinema is reduced to five nominations every year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Just make sure you either go in satiated or with set plans for your post-viewing meal. In our world of gross TikTok hacks for one pot meals, it’s a balm to see things slowed down and with many, many beautifully rustic copper pots and cast-iron pans. And don’t be surprised if everyone suddenly starts making pot-au-feu, which, come to think of it, is actually a perfect meal for February.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-medium wp-image-12127869\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/arts/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-800x78.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>‘The Taste of Things’ is released in select cities, including San Francisco, on Feb. 9, 2024. It will reach screens nationwide on Feb. 14.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>There is something rather cruel about releasing a film this lovely and voyeuristic in the dead of February, in which the cinematic gardens are lush, the game is fresh, the atmosphere is tranquil, the distractions are non-existent, the conversations are intellectual and the goal is shared. But maybe that’s why we need movies like this. It’s pure escapism and the cost of the movie ticket is slightly more affordable.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The film is fictional, a sort of prequel to Marcel Rouff’s \u003cem>The Life and Passion of Dodin-Bouffant, Gourmet \u003c/em>from 1924, itself loosely inspired by 19th century French epicure Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin. But the food is real, imagined by three-star chef Pierre Gagnaire and prepared on set by Michel Nave. Far from that ugly, almost meaningless phrase “food porn,” \u003cem>The Taste of Things\u003c/em> is a cinematic expression of the art of cuisine. The sounds of cooking provide the score. The visuals seem to transcend the screen in a very mystical way.\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/cKKCGtoIOVY'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/cKKCGtoIOVY'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cp>Director and screenwriter Trần Anh Hùng and cinematographer Jonathan Ricquebourg use the camera as almost a sous chef, letting the audience feel like they’re in the flurry of everything in the kitchen as well. It is not chaotic like \u003cem>The Bear\u003c/em> or any number of those shouty reality shows. This is more like a ballet — precise, delicate and quiet. And the luminous Juliette Binoche is the regal principal, guiding the proceedings with grace and a slightly undone bun.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, there’s a story here, too, the side dish to the main course, which focuses on Dodin’s (Benoît Magimel) relationship with his cook Eugénie (Binoche). Theirs is a long and deep companionship, forged by a shared passion for food and a mutual respect that belies normal dynamics between boss and employee. It is kind of the ultimate in intimacy, being on the same page about quality and pairings and the seemingly very mundane, ordinary question of “What are we eating tonight?” Dodin wants to marry her. She refuses. It’s a conversation they’ve probably had many times before and perhaps why the dynamic continues to work.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>There is a moving story in here about love in ones “autumn years” as Dodin calls it. Everything is understated and lovely, including their very adult conversations about marriage and the right to lock their doors at night. There are some tropey flourishes, too, like a precocious young girl reciting flavor notes with suspicious specificity, and foreshadowing illness by showing a character who suddenly feels faint. They stand out as common choices in a film that is anything but.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hùng won the best director award for \u003cem>The Taste of Things\u003c/em> at the Cannes Film Festival last year, and it was selected to represent France in the Oscars but was passed over for a nomination. This technicality should not dissuade anyone from being interested in the film — just a reminder of how unfair it is that all of world cinema is reduced to five nominations every year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Just make sure you either go in satiated or with set plans for your post-viewing meal. In our world of gross TikTok hacks for one pot meals, it’s a balm to see things slowed down and with many, many beautifully rustic copper pots and cast-iron pans. And don’t be surprised if everyone suddenly starts making pot-au-feu, which, come to think of it, is actually a perfect meal for February.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-medium wp-image-12127869\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/arts/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-800x78.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>‘The Taste of Things’ is released in select cities, including San Francisco, on Feb. 9, 2024. It will reach screens nationwide on Feb. 14.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">A few months ago, my wife — who, like me, is an avid pizza head — sent me news about an interesting new style of pizza we’d never heard of, but wanted to devour: mochi pizza.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Served at \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/mochikomochipizza/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Mochiko\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> in Burlingame, the rare, rectangular pies use mochigome — a form of Japanese glutinous rice that is steamed then turned into a chewy paste — instead of traditional flour dough. Though we haven’t been able to make the trip out to Burlingame yet (\u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/11973704/things-to-do-bay-area-with-children\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">it’s not always easy getting out of the house with an infant\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">), it’s on my short list of foods I’m willing to pay my share of gas money to try.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13931296,arts_13928196']\u003c/span>With Japanese-inspired flavors like chicken curry (which features chicken karaage and Japanese curry) in addition to classics like pepperoni, Mochiko appears to be carving (slicing?) out a niche lane as what they claim to be \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.sfgate.com/food/article/bay-area-mochiko-mochi-pizza-opening-18457749.php\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">the first ever mochi pizzeria\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. The idea, it seems, is to create a \u003ca href=\"https://www.mochipizza.com/faq/\">gluten-free crust\u003c/a> that combines \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/restaurants/article/best-new-bay-area-18517990.php\">crispy outer edges\u003c/a> with a stretchy, chewy interior. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Now, the restaurant is making it even easier for Bay Area eaters to experience the mochi fusion by introducing a second location — essentially a new menu available inside the Palo Alto branch of \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/sushirrito/?hl=en\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Sushirrito\u003c/span>\u003c/a>. (P\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">erhaps unsurprisingly, t\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">he owners of Mochiko are also the ones behind that hybrid sushi burrito chain.) \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Having soft-launched at the end of January, Mochiko’s new outpost will celebrate its official grand opening on Friday, Feb. 9 — which also happens to be National Pizza Day. To add extra sauce to their deal, the Palo Alto shop will serve free slices that day, from 4 to 6 p.m. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Since it’s easier for me to get to this location, expect to find me finally checking mochi pizza off my things-you-can-only-eat-in-the-Bay-Area bingo card. I’m sure I won’t be the only one.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-12127869\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/mochikomochipizza/\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Mochiko Mochi Pizza\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> (448 University Ave., Palo Alto, inside Sushirrito) will host its grand opening on Fri., Feb. 9, when it will serve free slices from 4 to 6 p.m. Moving forward, the restaurant will be open daily from noon to 8 p.m.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>With Japanese-inspired flavors like chicken curry (which features chicken karaage and Japanese curry) in addition to classics like pepperoni, Mochiko appears to be carving (slicing?) out a niche lane as what they claim to be \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.sfgate.com/food/article/bay-area-mochiko-mochi-pizza-opening-18457749.php\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">the first ever mochi pizzeria\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. The idea, it seems, is to create a \u003ca href=\"https://www.mochipizza.com/faq/\">gluten-free crust\u003c/a> that combines \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/restaurants/article/best-new-bay-area-18517990.php\">crispy outer edges\u003c/a> with a stretchy, chewy interior. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Now, the restaurant is making it even easier for Bay Area eaters to experience the mochi fusion by introducing a second location — essentially a new menu available inside the Palo Alto branch of \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/sushirrito/?hl=en\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Sushirrito\u003c/span>\u003c/a>. (P\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">erhaps unsurprisingly, t\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">he owners of Mochiko are also the ones behind that hybrid sushi burrito chain.) \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Having soft-launched at the end of January, Mochiko’s new outpost will celebrate its official grand opening on Friday, Feb. 9 — which also happens to be National Pizza Day. To add extra sauce to their deal, the Palo Alto shop will serve free slices that day, from 4 to 6 p.m. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Since it’s easier for me to get to this location, expect to find me finally checking mochi pizza off my things-you-can-only-eat-in-the-Bay-Area bingo card. I’m sure I won’t be the only one.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-12127869\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/mochikomochipizza/\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Mochiko Mochi Pizza\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> (448 University Ave., Palo Alto, inside Sushirrito) will host its grand opening on Fri., Feb. 9, when it will serve free slices from 4 to 6 p.m. Moving forward, the restaurant will be open daily from noon to 8 p.m.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "What's a Sea Urchin Party — and How Do I Throw One?",
"headTitle": "What’s a Sea Urchin Party — and How Do I Throw One? | KQED",
"content": "\u003cp>My biggest secret is a set of geographic coordinates I keep in an unnamed tab of my Notes app. There you’ll find my heart, and you’ll also find dinner.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Whenever I can, I pack friends into my car and head up the coast from Oakland. We zip through cypress groves, scour the horizon for the dragon-like exhales of gray whales, scuttle down rocks like crabs and then we find it: orange starfish in tight knots, pink boulders with seaweed curtain bangs, and sea urchins — thousands of them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And we should be eating more of them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In California, over 95 percent of coastal kelp is gone, and the ecosystem is in crisis. While Indigenous folks have eaten these urchins for generations, colonization and unchecked resource extraction have wreaked havoc on regional ecology. Warming waters and over-hunting the marine mammals that once brought balance to the ecosystem have led to an overpopulation of Pacific purple sea urchins. And while sprawling urchin barrens sound like an uni’s paradise — there’s one that stretches \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2021/10/04/dining/california-sea-urchin-kelp-coastline.html\">400 miles from Marin County to Oregon\u003c/a> — they really aren’t. Exponential growth and a limited food source mean the urchins are starving. And it’s not a quick death: They can starve for decades, devouring any young kelp that’s struggling to revive the forest.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13951463\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13951463\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01119.jpg\" alt=\"Three people stand in a tidepool searching among the rocks and kelp for live sea urchins.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01119.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01119-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01119-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01119-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01119-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01119-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Along with friends Dimitri Diagne and Angie Sijun Lou, the author (right) searches for sea urchins and mussels at her top-secret foraging spot. \u003ccite>(James Gebilaguin)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>But year-round in Northern California, you can still find sea urchins swelling with plump, yolky gonads, though they vary in size and quantity depending on the season and location. They’re creamy and delicious but wildly expensive. That is, unless you harvest them yourself.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In my amateur experience, winter — so, like, right now — is the best time for a fruitful visit to the tidepools. So here’s how to find them, open them and throw the most memorable party ever, while educating yourself and your loved ones about the history of these habitats and the consequences of exploitation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A word to the wise: I’m no marine biologist or commercial fisherman, and going out into tidepool territory can be dicey, from rogue waves to the health risks that come with eating raw, wild seafood. Please forage and consume at your own risk, and go with someone who knows what they’re doing if it’s your first time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13951465\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13951465\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01073.jpg\" alt=\"A woman in black stands at the edge of a tidepool looking down toward the water.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01073.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01073-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01073-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01073-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01073-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01073-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Taking in the view. \u003ccite>(James Gebilaguin)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>\u003cb>The Spot \u003c/b>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>You can find a gathering spot by trial and error, like my family did, or check out well-known urchin foraging destinations such as Pillar Point in Half Moon Bay or Fort Ross in Mendocino. There are designated places along the coast where it’s okay to collect and other marine protected areas where it may be illegal, so refer to \u003ca href=\"https://wildlife.ca.gov/Conservation/Marine/MPAs\">these guidelines\u003c/a> from the California Department of Fish and Wildlife.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13923127,arts_13935854']\u003c/span>Wherever you go in search of urchins, you’ll find yourself at the staggering edge of the continent. With all the salty spray and swooping seabirds, your heart will feel full, maybe for the first time in a while. In short, a lovely way to spend a day with friends.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And when you do find the spiky creatures in their foamy homes, do me and the ocean a favor and hold one in your bare palm — they won’t hurt you. Delicate tentacles will emerge from among their blunt spines with curious intent, and they might even scooch softly across your hand.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even though Pacific purple urchins aren’t venomous, make sure to stay up to date on \u003ca href=\"https://www.cdph.ca.gov/Programs/OPA/Pages/Shellfish-Advisories.aspx#:~:text=For%20updated%20information%20on%20shellfish,CDPH%20Recreational%20Shellfish%20Advisory%20Map.\">shellfish advisories\u003c/a> and call the toll-free biotoxin hotline (1-800-553-4133) to make sure the uni is safe to eat under current conditions. You’ll also need a \u003ca href=\"https://wildlife.ca.gov/Licensing/Online-Sales\">fishing license\u003c/a>, which grants you 35 purple sea urchins per outing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13951464\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13951464\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01112.jpg\" alt=\"A purple sea urchin held up with a three-pronged garden tool.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01112.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01112-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01112-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01112-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01112-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01112-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A three-pronged garden tiller can be repurposed into an excellent tool for prying sea urchins from the rocks. \u003ccite>(James Gebilaguin)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>\u003cb>The Tools\u003c/b>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>You’ll need a cooler to store the urchins, some gloves if you want extra hand protection and something like a three-pronged garden tiller to pry the urchins from the rocks with swift force. They stick like velcro and can use some extra oomph. Online tide schedules are also your friend. Even a few feet of water can obscure thousands of urchins from view.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once you get home, you’ll need a pair of kitchen shears, some crab crackers and a few quiet moments to take in the bounty you’ve been gifted.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>\u003cb>The Party\u003c/b>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>The ocean is special and these urchins are special, so do right by them. Get a nice little beverage and maybe boil some pasta. My friends and I usually bring back mussels, too, to make a linguini.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you’ve collected a few dozen urchins and made a big ol’ thing of rice and steamed some veggies, you can easily feed a group of five. Stretch a little, shuffle your best chill nighttime playlist, give your friends a pep talk and then begin the real work.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13951458\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13951458\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01220.jpg\" alt=\"Two hands cradling a spiky purple sea urchin.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01220.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01220-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01220-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01220-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01220-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01220-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Don’t be afraid to hold the sea urchin in your bare palm — it won’t hurt you. \u003ccite>(James Gebilaguin)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>\u003cb>The Shuck \u003c/b>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>In a clean kitchen sink with a trash can nearby and nothing close that you can’t stand getting stained, position an urchin mouth-side up — you’ll see an opening with the urchin’s beak peeking out. With your kitchen shears, cut the tissue around the beak in a circle. Once the beak is detached, pull it out with your shears and toss it. Now you have an opening to pry open the urchin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To crack open the urchin, you can either cut perpendicularly from the crevice with your shears or set the urchin on the bottom of the sink, jam a pair of closed crab crackers into the opening and firmly open the crackers to split the shell open.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13951460\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13951460\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01200.jpg\" alt=\"Four photos showing the steps to crack open a sea urchin: detaching the beak, prying the shell open, washing out the debris and then, finally, removing the creamy, orange gonad.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01200.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01200-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01200-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01200-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01200-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01200-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Removing the uni from the shell requires a bit of practice. Clockwise from top left: 1) Detaching the beak; 2) prying open the shell; 3) removing the uni; and 4) rinsing it clean. \u003ccite>(James Gebilaguin)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Run cold water over the insides of the urchin. Hopefully there’ll be sunny orange uni, but there will also be guts and maybe some small rocks and sea veggies that the urchin was munching on — and it’ll smell as good as you’d smell if you’d just eaten a handful of seaweed and pebbles. You’ll want to rinse as much detritus as you can.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Delicately release the uni by running your finger (or a spoon) between the uni and the inside of the shell. This part takes some practice, and it’s okay if they fall apart sometimes. You can rinse the uni under cold water and put them on a plate lined with some paper towels.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13951457\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13951457\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01268.jpg\" alt=\"Overhead view of a sea urchin feast: individual portions of seafood pasta and a plate of raw uni lobes in the center.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01268.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01268-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01268-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01268-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01268-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01268-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A few dozen purple sea urchins can easily feed a party of five. \u003ccite>(James Gebilaguin)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>\u003cb>The Eating Part of the Party\u003c/b>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>You’ve been on quite the journey, and now it’s time to come together at the table, reflect on the day and dig in. Uni is custardy, sweet and briny all at once — like if the word “umami” fell off the page in a creamy orange heap and presented itself to you, no condiments needed. Raw is the best way to enjoy uni, in my humble opinion. It gets sad and disintegrates if you sauté it in a pan with butter — trust me, I’ve tried. I like to eat uni fresh over rice with soft-scrambled eggs, some soy sauce and maybe a dollop of crème fraîche. You can also spoon it over pasta or straight into your mouth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Later, after you’ve savored every custardy bite with fingers stained an inky magenta, remember the creatures’ gentle but formidable life force in your hands. It’s a loving reminder of their place in the ecosystem — and yours, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13951455\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13951455\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01277.jpg\" alt=\"Plates of pasta, mussels and fresh uni laid out on a dining table with glasses of red wine.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01277.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01277-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01277-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01277-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01277-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01277-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The reward for your long day’s journey. \u003ccite>(James Gebilaguin)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-12127869\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>The FDA offers the following \u003ca href=\"https://www.fda.gov/food/buy-store-serve-safe-food/selecting-and-serving-fresh-and-frozen-seafood-safely#:~:text=It's%20always%20best%20to%20cook,parasites%20that%20may%20be%20present.\">guidelines\u003c/a> for safe seafood consumption. Take the above suggestions around raw seafood collection and consumption at your own risk.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>My biggest secret is a set of geographic coordinates I keep in an unnamed tab of my Notes app. There you’ll find my heart, and you’ll also find dinner.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Whenever I can, I pack friends into my car and head up the coast from Oakland. We zip through cypress groves, scour the horizon for the dragon-like exhales of gray whales, scuttle down rocks like crabs and then we find it: orange starfish in tight knots, pink boulders with seaweed curtain bangs, and sea urchins — thousands of them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And we should be eating more of them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In California, over 95 percent of coastal kelp is gone, and the ecosystem is in crisis. While Indigenous folks have eaten these urchins for generations, colonization and unchecked resource extraction have wreaked havoc on regional ecology. Warming waters and over-hunting the marine mammals that once brought balance to the ecosystem have led to an overpopulation of Pacific purple sea urchins. And while sprawling urchin barrens sound like an uni’s paradise — there’s one that stretches \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2021/10/04/dining/california-sea-urchin-kelp-coastline.html\">400 miles from Marin County to Oregon\u003c/a> — they really aren’t. Exponential growth and a limited food source mean the urchins are starving. And it’s not a quick death: They can starve for decades, devouring any young kelp that’s struggling to revive the forest.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13951463\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13951463\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01119.jpg\" alt=\"Three people stand in a tidepool searching among the rocks and kelp for live sea urchins.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01119.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01119-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01119-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01119-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01119-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01119-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Along with friends Dimitri Diagne and Angie Sijun Lou, the author (right) searches for sea urchins and mussels at her top-secret foraging spot. \u003ccite>(James Gebilaguin)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>But year-round in Northern California, you can still find sea urchins swelling with plump, yolky gonads, though they vary in size and quantity depending on the season and location. They’re creamy and delicious but wildly expensive. That is, unless you harvest them yourself.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In my amateur experience, winter — so, like, right now — is the best time for a fruitful visit to the tidepools. So here’s how to find them, open them and throw the most memorable party ever, while educating yourself and your loved ones about the history of these habitats and the consequences of exploitation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A word to the wise: I’m no marine biologist or commercial fisherman, and going out into tidepool territory can be dicey, from rogue waves to the health risks that come with eating raw, wild seafood. Please forage and consume at your own risk, and go with someone who knows what they’re doing if it’s your first time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13951465\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13951465\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01073.jpg\" alt=\"A woman in black stands at the edge of a tidepool looking down toward the water.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01073.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01073-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01073-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01073-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01073-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01073-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Taking in the view. \u003ccite>(James Gebilaguin)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>\u003cb>The Spot \u003c/b>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>You can find a gathering spot by trial and error, like my family did, or check out well-known urchin foraging destinations such as Pillar Point in Half Moon Bay or Fort Ross in Mendocino. There are designated places along the coast where it’s okay to collect and other marine protected areas where it may be illegal, so refer to \u003ca href=\"https://wildlife.ca.gov/Conservation/Marine/MPAs\">these guidelines\u003c/a> from the California Department of Fish and Wildlife.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>Wherever you go in search of urchins, you’ll find yourself at the staggering edge of the continent. With all the salty spray and swooping seabirds, your heart will feel full, maybe for the first time in a while. In short, a lovely way to spend a day with friends.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And when you do find the spiky creatures in their foamy homes, do me and the ocean a favor and hold one in your bare palm — they won’t hurt you. Delicate tentacles will emerge from among their blunt spines with curious intent, and they might even scooch softly across your hand.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even though Pacific purple urchins aren’t venomous, make sure to stay up to date on \u003ca href=\"https://www.cdph.ca.gov/Programs/OPA/Pages/Shellfish-Advisories.aspx#:~:text=For%20updated%20information%20on%20shellfish,CDPH%20Recreational%20Shellfish%20Advisory%20Map.\">shellfish advisories\u003c/a> and call the toll-free biotoxin hotline (1-800-553-4133) to make sure the uni is safe to eat under current conditions. You’ll also need a \u003ca href=\"https://wildlife.ca.gov/Licensing/Online-Sales\">fishing license\u003c/a>, which grants you 35 purple sea urchins per outing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13951464\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13951464\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01112.jpg\" alt=\"A purple sea urchin held up with a three-pronged garden tool.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01112.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01112-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01112-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01112-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01112-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01112-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A three-pronged garden tiller can be repurposed into an excellent tool for prying sea urchins from the rocks. \u003ccite>(James Gebilaguin)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>\u003cb>The Tools\u003c/b>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>You’ll need a cooler to store the urchins, some gloves if you want extra hand protection and something like a three-pronged garden tiller to pry the urchins from the rocks with swift force. They stick like velcro and can use some extra oomph. Online tide schedules are also your friend. Even a few feet of water can obscure thousands of urchins from view.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once you get home, you’ll need a pair of kitchen shears, some crab crackers and a few quiet moments to take in the bounty you’ve been gifted.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>\u003cb>The Party\u003c/b>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>The ocean is special and these urchins are special, so do right by them. Get a nice little beverage and maybe boil some pasta. My friends and I usually bring back mussels, too, to make a linguini.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you’ve collected a few dozen urchins and made a big ol’ thing of rice and steamed some veggies, you can easily feed a group of five. Stretch a little, shuffle your best chill nighttime playlist, give your friends a pep talk and then begin the real work.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13951458\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13951458\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01220.jpg\" alt=\"Two hands cradling a spiky purple sea urchin.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01220.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01220-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01220-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01220-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01220-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01220-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Don’t be afraid to hold the sea urchin in your bare palm — it won’t hurt you. \u003ccite>(James Gebilaguin)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>\u003cb>The Shuck \u003c/b>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>In a clean kitchen sink with a trash can nearby and nothing close that you can’t stand getting stained, position an urchin mouth-side up — you’ll see an opening with the urchin’s beak peeking out. With your kitchen shears, cut the tissue around the beak in a circle. Once the beak is detached, pull it out with your shears and toss it. Now you have an opening to pry open the urchin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To crack open the urchin, you can either cut perpendicularly from the crevice with your shears or set the urchin on the bottom of the sink, jam a pair of closed crab crackers into the opening and firmly open the crackers to split the shell open.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13951460\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13951460\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01200.jpg\" alt=\"Four photos showing the steps to crack open a sea urchin: detaching the beak, prying the shell open, washing out the debris and then, finally, removing the creamy, orange gonad.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01200.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01200-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01200-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01200-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01200-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01200-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Removing the uni from the shell requires a bit of practice. Clockwise from top left: 1) Detaching the beak; 2) prying open the shell; 3) removing the uni; and 4) rinsing it clean. \u003ccite>(James Gebilaguin)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Run cold water over the insides of the urchin. Hopefully there’ll be sunny orange uni, but there will also be guts and maybe some small rocks and sea veggies that the urchin was munching on — and it’ll smell as good as you’d smell if you’d just eaten a handful of seaweed and pebbles. You’ll want to rinse as much detritus as you can.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Delicately release the uni by running your finger (or a spoon) between the uni and the inside of the shell. This part takes some practice, and it’s okay if they fall apart sometimes. You can rinse the uni under cold water and put them on a plate lined with some paper towels.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13951457\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13951457\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01268.jpg\" alt=\"Overhead view of a sea urchin feast: individual portions of seafood pasta and a plate of raw uni lobes in the center.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01268.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01268-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01268-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01268-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01268-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01268-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A few dozen purple sea urchins can easily feed a party of five. \u003ccite>(James Gebilaguin)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>\u003cb>The Eating Part of the Party\u003c/b>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>You’ve been on quite the journey, and now it’s time to come together at the table, reflect on the day and dig in. Uni is custardy, sweet and briny all at once — like if the word “umami” fell off the page in a creamy orange heap and presented itself to you, no condiments needed. Raw is the best way to enjoy uni, in my humble opinion. It gets sad and disintegrates if you sauté it in a pan with butter — trust me, I’ve tried. I like to eat uni fresh over rice with soft-scrambled eggs, some soy sauce and maybe a dollop of crème fraîche. You can also spoon it over pasta or straight into your mouth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Later, after you’ve savored every custardy bite with fingers stained an inky magenta, remember the creatures’ gentle but formidable life force in your hands. It’s a loving reminder of their place in the ecosystem — and yours, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13951455\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13951455\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01277.jpg\" alt=\"Plates of pasta, mussels and fresh uni laid out on a dining table with glasses of red wine.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01277.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01277-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01277-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01277-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01277-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DSC01277-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The reward for your long day’s journey. \u003ccite>(James Gebilaguin)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-12127869\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>The FDA offers the following \u003ca href=\"https://www.fda.gov/food/buy-store-serve-safe-food/selecting-and-serving-fresh-and-frozen-seafood-safely#:~:text=It's%20always%20best%20to%20cook,parasites%20that%20may%20be%20present.\">guidelines\u003c/a> for safe seafood consumption. Take the above suggestions around raw seafood collection and consumption at your own risk.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"slug": "chinese-skewers-are-the-last-bastion-of-late-night-dining-in-the-bay",
"title": "Chinese Skewers Are the Last Bastion of Late-Night Dining in the Bay",
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"headTitle": "Chinese Skewers Are the Last Bastion of Late-Night Dining in the Bay | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13951383\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13951383\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DYNASTY-BBQ-1920X1920.jpeg\" alt=\"An illustration of a tray of Chinese grilled meat skewers, including kebab-style lamb and beef, pork intestines, whole shrimp and whole fish.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DYNASTY-BBQ-1920X1920.jpeg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DYNASTY-BBQ-1920X1920-800x800.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DYNASTY-BBQ-1920X1920-1020x1020.jpeg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DYNASTY-BBQ-1920X1920-160x160.jpeg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DYNASTY-BBQ-1920X1920-768x768.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DYNASTY-BBQ-1920X1920-1536x1536.jpeg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">At Newark’s Dynasty BBQ, you can get chewy-crisp pork intestines, chicken gristle and whole fish grilled on a stick — in addition to the usual beef and lamb skewers. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/the-midnight-diners\">The Midnight Diners\u003c/a>\u003ci> is a regular collaboration between KQED food editor Luke Tsai and artist Thien Pham\u003c/i>. \u003ci>Follow them each week as they explore the hot pot restaurants, taco carts and 24-hour casino buffets that make up the Bay Area’s after-hours dining scene.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Bay Area has always been a tough place to be an incorrigible late-night snacker — and the triple whammy of the pandemic, a brittle economy and the prevailing “doom loop” narrative have winnowed down the options even further. (Did you know, for example, that even the \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13896138/ling-nam-starbread-filipino-bakery-senorita-bread-24-hour-daly-city-open\">24-hour Starbread\u003c/a> in Daly City now closes at 9 p.m.?)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We live in the \u003ci>epicenter\u003c/i> of the 8 or 9 o’clock last call.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The one notable exception, apparently? Chinese skewers. Even now, if you search online for what’s still open, say, past 10 p.m. on any given day, you’ll find a preponderance of Chinese restaurants with the word “\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bbq\">BBQ\u003c/a>” in their name, scattered in suburbs like Dublin, Fremont and San Mateo. All of them specialize in the heavily spiced, cumin-forward grilled meat sticks that you’ll find sold on the street in northwestern China.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That’s what we were craving on a recent Friday night when we drove to a Newark strip mall in search of \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/oyama_bbq/\">Dynasty BBQ\u003c/a>, which was a bit tricky to find if only because the place just recently changed its signage, having merged with a \u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/dynasty-bbq-san-mateo-3\">San Mateo skewer spot\u003c/a> of the same name. Online, it’s still listed as “\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/oyama-bbq-newark-7\">Oyama BBQ\u003c/a>.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dynasty has this particular kind of high-low vibe that immediately charmed me: On the one hand, there was the traditional \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Guzheng\">guzheng\u003c/a> music and elegant decor, down to the paper lanterns and the dozens of faux cherry blossoms hanging from the ceiling, like you’re dining in some Ming Dynasty temple courtyard. On the other hand, we were eating and drinking off the same kind of paper plates and plastic cups you would get at a child’s birthday party.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13951387\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13951387\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/dynasty-decor.jpg\" alt=\"Spring blossoms and paper lanterns hanging from the ceiling of a traditionally decorated Chinese restaurant.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/dynasty-decor.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/dynasty-decor-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/dynasty-decor-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/dynasty-decor-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/dynasty-decor-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/dynasty-decor-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The vibes are immaculate. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The food hit the spot. More often than not, this is exactly what I want to be eating when I get hungry late at night — something salty and fatty that goes down expeditiously well with cold beer. The skewers all have the same standard spice coating that’s ubiquitous at this type of Chinese barbecue spot: a lot of cumin, ground chiles and Sichuan peppercorn.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">\u003cb>\u003cstrong>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13950577,arts_13936332,arts_13933006']\u003c/span>\u003c/strong>\u003c/b>\u003c/span>At Dynasty, most of the sticks run just $2 to $4 an order, so we got a couple bowls of white rice and really went to town. Classic beef and lamb skewers that burst with hot, fatty juice when you bite in. Whole fish (yellow croakers) skewered onto the stick and grilled until the skin crackles and pops — pure pleasure to pick off the bones. Every kind of innard you can imagine, from crunchy chicken gristle to one of my favorites, pork intestines — the chewy-crisp, fatty Elastic Band King of the meat stick world.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Everything’s cooked to order in the kitchen (this isn’t one of those grill-it-yourself deals), so I’m not even sure if one of our surprise favorites was even prepared on the grill at all: a whole eggplant splayed open and cooked until the flesh is oozy soft, then topped with what appeared to be a whole head’s worth of chopped garlic.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dynasty is the kind of place where you can eat well — and eat a lot — for $20 or $30 a person. My pro tip? Get just a few skewers at a time and order more as you go. The best bite is the first bite after that meat stick hits the table, when food is at its crisp-edged best and almost too hot to eat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-12127869\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>The Newark location of Dynasty BBQ (5492 Central Ave., Newark) is open Mon. through Fri. from 5 p.m. to midnight, and from noon to 2:30 p.m. and 5 to 11 p.m. on Saturday and Sunday. It has a \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/oyama_bbq/\">\u003ci>sister location\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> in San Mateo.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "To kick off our new series, ‘The Midnight Diners,’ we head to Newark’s Dynasty BBQ. ",
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"title": "Dynasty BBQ Serves Late-Night Chinese Skewers in Newark | KQED",
"description": "To kick off our new series, ‘The Midnight Diners,’ we head to Newark’s Dynasty BBQ. ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13951383\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13951383\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DYNASTY-BBQ-1920X1920.jpeg\" alt=\"An illustration of a tray of Chinese grilled meat skewers, including kebab-style lamb and beef, pork intestines, whole shrimp and whole fish.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DYNASTY-BBQ-1920X1920.jpeg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DYNASTY-BBQ-1920X1920-800x800.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DYNASTY-BBQ-1920X1920-1020x1020.jpeg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DYNASTY-BBQ-1920X1920-160x160.jpeg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DYNASTY-BBQ-1920X1920-768x768.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/DYNASTY-BBQ-1920X1920-1536x1536.jpeg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">At Newark’s Dynasty BBQ, you can get chewy-crisp pork intestines, chicken gristle and whole fish grilled on a stick — in addition to the usual beef and lamb skewers. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/the-midnight-diners\">The Midnight Diners\u003c/a>\u003ci> is a regular collaboration between KQED food editor Luke Tsai and artist Thien Pham\u003c/i>. \u003ci>Follow them each week as they explore the hot pot restaurants, taco carts and 24-hour casino buffets that make up the Bay Area’s after-hours dining scene.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Bay Area has always been a tough place to be an incorrigible late-night snacker — and the triple whammy of the pandemic, a brittle economy and the prevailing “doom loop” narrative have winnowed down the options even further. (Did you know, for example, that even the \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13896138/ling-nam-starbread-filipino-bakery-senorita-bread-24-hour-daly-city-open\">24-hour Starbread\u003c/a> in Daly City now closes at 9 p.m.?)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We live in the \u003ci>epicenter\u003c/i> of the 8 or 9 o’clock last call.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The one notable exception, apparently? Chinese skewers. Even now, if you search online for what’s still open, say, past 10 p.m. on any given day, you’ll find a preponderance of Chinese restaurants with the word “\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bbq\">BBQ\u003c/a>” in their name, scattered in suburbs like Dublin, Fremont and San Mateo. All of them specialize in the heavily spiced, cumin-forward grilled meat sticks that you’ll find sold on the street in northwestern China.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That’s what we were craving on a recent Friday night when we drove to a Newark strip mall in search of \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/oyama_bbq/\">Dynasty BBQ\u003c/a>, which was a bit tricky to find if only because the place just recently changed its signage, having merged with a \u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/dynasty-bbq-san-mateo-3\">San Mateo skewer spot\u003c/a> of the same name. Online, it’s still listed as “\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/oyama-bbq-newark-7\">Oyama BBQ\u003c/a>.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dynasty has this particular kind of high-low vibe that immediately charmed me: On the one hand, there was the traditional \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Guzheng\">guzheng\u003c/a> music and elegant decor, down to the paper lanterns and the dozens of faux cherry blossoms hanging from the ceiling, like you’re dining in some Ming Dynasty temple courtyard. On the other hand, we were eating and drinking off the same kind of paper plates and plastic cups you would get at a child’s birthday party.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13951387\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13951387\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/dynasty-decor.jpg\" alt=\"Spring blossoms and paper lanterns hanging from the ceiling of a traditionally decorated Chinese restaurant.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/dynasty-decor.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/dynasty-decor-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/dynasty-decor-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/dynasty-decor-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/dynasty-decor-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/dynasty-decor-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The vibes are immaculate. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The food hit the spot. More often than not, this is exactly what I want to be eating when I get hungry late at night — something salty and fatty that goes down expeditiously well with cold beer. The skewers all have the same standard spice coating that’s ubiquitous at this type of Chinese barbecue spot: a lot of cumin, ground chiles and Sichuan peppercorn.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">\u003cb>\u003cstrong>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/strong>\u003c/b>\u003c/span>At Dynasty, most of the sticks run just $2 to $4 an order, so we got a couple bowls of white rice and really went to town. Classic beef and lamb skewers that burst with hot, fatty juice when you bite in. Whole fish (yellow croakers) skewered onto the stick and grilled until the skin crackles and pops — pure pleasure to pick off the bones. Every kind of innard you can imagine, from crunchy chicken gristle to one of my favorites, pork intestines — the chewy-crisp, fatty Elastic Band King of the meat stick world.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Everything’s cooked to order in the kitchen (this isn’t one of those grill-it-yourself deals), so I’m not even sure if one of our surprise favorites was even prepared on the grill at all: a whole eggplant splayed open and cooked until the flesh is oozy soft, then topped with what appeared to be a whole head’s worth of chopped garlic.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dynasty is the kind of place where you can eat well — and eat a lot — for $20 or $30 a person. My pro tip? Get just a few skewers at a time and order more as you go. The best bite is the first bite after that meat stick hits the table, when food is at its crisp-edged best and almost too hot to eat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-12127869\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>The Newark location of Dynasty BBQ (5492 Central Ave., Newark) is open Mon. through Fri. from 5 p.m. to midnight, and from noon to 2:30 p.m. and 5 to 11 p.m. on Saturday and Sunday. It has a \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/oyama_bbq/\">\u003ci>sister location\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> in San Mateo.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"slug": "jay-caspian-kang-asian-food-san-jose-hella-hungry",
"title": "Jay Caspian Kang Loves Bay Area Food — But Isn’t Shy About Bashing It",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003ci>¡Hella Hungry! is a series of interviews with Bay Area foodmakers exploring the region’s culinary innovations through the mouth of a first-generation local.\u003c/i>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Inside \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://gangnamtofuusa.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Gangnam Tofu\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, a destination-worthy Korean restaurant in an otherwise unremarkable El Cerrito strip mall, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/jaycaspiankang?ref_src=twsrc%5Egoogle%7Ctwcamp%5Eserp%7Ctwgr%5Eauthor\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Jay Caspian Kang\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> orders a round of shareable dishes — galbi, honey-cheese fried chicken and budae jjigae (a wartime-era stew of mixed meats and noodles) — for us to split. As the lunch crowd pours in behind him, Kang tells me why he likes Gangnam over most other Asian eateries in the area: “I just want to eat standard Korean food that’s prepared well.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Though he surprisingly prefers his spicy food mild, the Korean-born \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://goodbye.substack.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">podcast host\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, novelist and \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">New Yorker \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">staff writer serves plenty of hot takes on everything from the shortcomings of technology (he’s an aspiring luddite) to the most underrated rap albums of the past quarter century (he stands with Mos Def in the internet feud against Drake). And when it comes to the hypocrisies of Bay Area politics, he especially \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.newyorker.com/news/our-columnists/london-breeds-cynical-swing-to-the-right\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">doesn’t hold back\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13950802\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13950802\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/240122-GAGNAM-TOFU-MD-09-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/240122-GAGNAM-TOFU-MD-09-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/240122-GAGNAM-TOFU-MD-09-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/240122-GAGNAM-TOFU-MD-09-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/240122-GAGNAM-TOFU-MD-09-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/240122-GAGNAM-TOFU-MD-09-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/240122-GAGNAM-TOFU-MD-09-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/240122-GAGNAM-TOFU-MD-09-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Best known for articles he’s written for national publications such as the New Yorker, Kang has lived in Berkeley since 2019. \u003ccite>(Martin do Nascimento/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Having settled in Berkeley after years of living in New York City and Los Angeles, Kang has developed a genuine appreciation for the Bay Area’s microcultures. Despite growing up on the East Coast and often writing about topics of national interest, Kang has in many ways become a quintessential Northern Californian: In his free time, you might find him surfing or wandering the aisles at Berkeley Bowl.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">And yet, he’s also someone who brings a worldly outsider’s unflinching perspective to controversial Bay Area topics such as the \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.newyorker.com/news/our-columnists/what-does-californias-homeless-population-actually-look-like\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">housing crisis\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> and \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2019/08/28/magazine/where-does-affirmative-action-leave-asian-americans.html\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">affirmative action\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. He’ll even let you know that \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/jaycaspiankang/status/1740961971498074151\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">the Asian food in Las Vegas is better than the Bay Area’s\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Perhaps \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13950363/keith-lee-tiktok-oakland-sf-bay-area-struggles\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">our region needs that tough love\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> now more than ever.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">While talking to the sports-loving dad and low-key hip-hop historian about the highs and lows of Bay Area living, I remembered why I love this quirky region so deeply, despite its complex truths. Here’s what everyone’s favorite \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/jaycaspiankang\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Tyler Hansborough evangelist\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> and \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.houseofstrauss.com/p/hos-jay-caspian-kang\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">reformed online troll\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> has to say about the state of the Bay — and its food offerings — in these precarious times.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">This interview has been edited for length and clarity.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp style=\"text-align: center\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">********\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Alan Chazaro: You were born in Korea, grew up in North Carolina and have lived in a ton of places. How long have you been in the Bay Area?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Jay Caspian Kang: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I went to college in New England, and then I went to New York for grad school. But after that, I moved out to California and lived here in San Francisco for six, seven years. I was working as a high school teacher. Then I moved to L.A., back to New York, and then right before the pandemic we moved back out here to Berkeley. It’s been four years now. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13950796\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13950796\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/240122-GAGNAM-TOFU-MD-03-KQED.jpg\" alt='Hand pointing to the \"honey cheese chicken\" on Korean restaurant menu.' width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/240122-GAGNAM-TOFU-MD-03-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/240122-GAGNAM-TOFU-MD-03-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/240122-GAGNAM-TOFU-MD-03-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/240122-GAGNAM-TOFU-MD-03-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/240122-GAGNAM-TOFU-MD-03-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/240122-GAGNAM-TOFU-MD-03-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/240122-GAGNAM-TOFU-MD-03-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Perusing the menu at GangNam Tofu . \u003ccite>(Martin do Nascimento/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>You’ve written about \u003c/b>\u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2015/07/22/magazine/writing-the-wave.html\">\u003cb>your passion for surfing\u003c/b>\u003c/a>\u003cb> in the Bay. What draws you to that?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I’m not a good surfer, but yeah, I spend most of my time thinking about surfing. For years, I just went to Ocean Beach all the time, and you get used to it and, you know, you learn how to avoid trouble. \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I go once or twice a week. That’s the only way you can do it: You have to prioritize it. Or else, if you don’t, then you don’t ever go. If I get a Zoom call, I’ll just cancel that. You have to live with some of the consequences after, but surfing is very necessary for my mental well-being.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>It sounds like you’ve reached some kind of Zen mindstate. Did you achieve that when you were living in Los Angeles?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I don’t really like to drive. And I’ve never liked Hollywood culture. I just find that the people I vibe most with are generally up here.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Who do you think is a good example of the Bay Area’s creativity and open-mindedness?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Look at MC Hammer. He grew up doing that boogaloo style of dancing in East Oakland. He downloaded that as a kid. He blew it up into worldwide fame in a modified kind of way. Now that he’s old, his presence on social media is just showing all these old videos of guys from his neighborhood dancing. I find it amazing that he’s willing to go back and show these kids from his block who were his influences, and he’s basically showing how that made him who he is. That’s community, music coming out of community. He’s interesting because he’s like the \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13909788/mc-hammer-oakland-redman-too-short-crips-louis-burrell-mc-serch-hit-e40\">most Oakland dude ever\u003c/a>, but he’s not always seen as being affiliated with that (laughs). \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13950797\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13950797\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/240122-GAGNAM-TOFU-MD-04-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/240122-GAGNAM-TOFU-MD-04-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/240122-GAGNAM-TOFU-MD-04-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/240122-GAGNAM-TOFU-MD-04-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/240122-GAGNAM-TOFU-MD-04-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/240122-GAGNAM-TOFU-MD-04-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/240122-GAGNAM-TOFU-MD-04-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/240122-GAGNAM-TOFU-MD-04-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Kang and KQED reporter Alan Chazaro put in their order. \u003ccite>(Martin do Nascimento/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>The Bay is weird like that. There’s a lot of different characters here.\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">It is weird. It’s interesting how someone like E-40 has become this sort of mascot as a rapper. He’s the dude. He’s like an entire persona. And people love him because he goes to all the games. I’ve never seen Too $hort at a game. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Did you grow up listening to a lot of Bay Area rap out on the East Coast?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I grew up listening to whatever you imagine a 44-year-old man would listen to (laughs). A Tribe Called Quest. Wu-Tang. Mobb Deep. Then you had the Bay Area, so there was like “Blowjob Betty” or whatever, and you would listen to it, and it was crazy because it was just so nasty. Luniz, Del [the Funky Homosapien]. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Del is the one I personally listened to the most. I still listen to him. The Deltron 3030 album is brilliant. The production on that album is \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">fucking\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> crazy. The whole concept is weird. [Bay Area producer] Dan the Automator had been messing with concept albums for a while. That was just a cool kind of rap with enough label support to make weird shit. That was before MF DOOM and all those dudes. It’s like Del imagining the future, and Del is awesome. He kills it. That album is low-key one of the 20 best rap albums ever. I hesitate to put it higher because is it as important as, say, KRS One? I don’t know. Listening to those KRS One albums can feel like you’re just doing your homework. I bet more people enjoyed Deltron 3030.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What’s more Bay Area than an Asian American producer teaming up with a nerdy Black dude from East Oakland to make a futuristic album about a fictional dystopian society?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Totally. And these guys were getting deeply influenced by the shit that’s happening with \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13812554/how-daly-citys-filipino-mobile-dj-scene-changed-hip-hop-forever\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Filipino DJs in Daly City\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. Every city has some version of that, but it’s so interesting in the Bay because it really is so multiracial. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>I wonder if the Bay Area still represents that as much as it once did. You commented on the whole \u003c/b>\u003cb>fiasco with TikTok food critic Keith Lee’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13950363/keith-lee-tiktok-oakland-sf-bay-area-struggles\">recent Bay Area visit\u003c/a>\u003c/b>\u003cb>. He said the Bay is “not a place for tourists” right now. What do you think about that?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">There’s no question that the Bay Area is going through a difficult time right now. If Keith Lee went to the Tenderloin and parts of East Oakland, which it seems like he did — or even if he went to 24th and Mission, which is highly trafficked — people when they come to the Bay Area and see that, it’s shocking to them. You have to be real about it. You don’t see that in New York. You see it in L.A. but it’s mostly in the Skid Row area. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The Bay Area has had these issues for a long time, but it was more contained and it didn’t feel like it was as big of a problem. When I moved to San Francisco around 2002, I got off BART at 16th Street. I was like, \u003cem>Wow, this is kind of wild\u003c/em>. And now that has really expanded to a lot of places where a lot more people go. So in the Bay, you get these people coming for conferences or just visiting to see Fisherman’s Wharf, and chances are the hotel is going to be in Union Square or directly in the Tenderloin. So when you leave your hotel, you’re seeing really bad shit. That shocks outsiders and contributes to an unfair narrative. If you put all of the hotels in L.A. on Skid Row, everyone would be saying the same thing about L.A. But at the same time, I think it’s good to bring attention to this problem: We have completely out-of-control homelessness in one of the richest cities in America, and that paradox and contradiction is impossible to resolve.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The way out of it is going to be super messy and will create reactionary elements. People like [\u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">San Fransicko \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">author] Michael Shellenberger believe all these \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/opinion/openforum/article/Michael-Shellenberger-s-narrative-of-California-17172493.php\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">drug addicts should just be put in jail.\u003c/span>\u003c/a> \u003ca href=\"https://invisiblepeople.tv/san-francisco-mayor-london-breed-joins-calls-to-punish-homeless-people-overturn-martin-v-boise/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">London Breed sometimes feels that way, too\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. But I think overall, those people are underestimating that the San Francisco Bay Area is a very progressive place. They will never accept us locking up these people. And that’s a good thing. The idea that you’re going to lock up the poor and throw away the key, it’s just not going to happen. Right now we’re in a period of extremes: of extreme cynicism and despair. And for good reason, because it’s fucking bad, you know? But I still wouldn’t trade places with anyone to live somewhere else in this country. It’s a trade-off.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13950799\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13950799\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/240122-GAGNAM-TOFU-MD-06-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/240122-GAGNAM-TOFU-MD-06-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/240122-GAGNAM-TOFU-MD-06-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/240122-GAGNAM-TOFU-MD-06-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/240122-GAGNAM-TOFU-MD-06-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/240122-GAGNAM-TOFU-MD-06-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/240122-GAGNAM-TOFU-MD-06-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/240122-GAGNAM-TOFU-MD-06-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Gangnam Tofu’s version of budae jjigae is a soft tofu stew loaded with sausage and noodles. \u003ccite>(Martin do Nascimento/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Despite our struggles, there’s so much to discover here and so many pockets of rich culture. You actually \u003c/b>\u003cb>had a take\u003c/b>\u003cb> that most of the \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/jaycaspiankang/status/1740965943998927231\">Asian food in the Bay Area is bad\u003c/a>, outside of in San Jose. I’m not sure many outsiders, or even locals, would voice that.\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">So here’s the thing. This is just my theory. Immigrant food is only really good in a certain time period after the people who are making it have immigrated here. For example, new Chinese populations in the United States will have much better food in their restaurants, and in those areas where they are living, than older, established Chinese populations. And the reason for that is very simple. It’s that food on the mainland continues to evolve, right? But the immigrants who have been living here for decades don’t. They’re frozen in time. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13904835,arts_13950363,arts_13938479']My parents left Korea in 1978, and they never go back except for a little visit throughout 25 years. And by 1999, their understanding of Korean cuisine is basically frozen in 1978, because every single other person who owns a Korean restaurant also came around that same time, because there was a big wave of immigration from ’75 to ’79. I know that in San Francisco you have a multi-generational embedded Chinese population. But at this point, like, what are we even eating? \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">A lot of Chinese restaurants [in San Francisco] feel like they’re a movie set or something. It’s very charming, but it’s very old school. In the Richmond, there are places you can find that are exceptions to that. But right now, the cradle for the best Chinese food is from Cupertino to Mountain View, all around Silicon Valley. And the reason for that is because there are a lot of new Chinese immigrants that are coming to work there. In addition to that, there’s this \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13904913/vietnamese-drinks-boba-che-guide-san-jose\">Vietnamese mall culture in San Jose\u003c/a>. It’s getting a little old-fashioned, but it’s still super vibrant. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[pullquote size=\"large\" align=\"right\" citation=\"Jay Caspian Kang\"]‘Food on the mainland continues to evolve, right? But the immigrants who have been living here for decades don’t. They’re frozen in time.’[/pullquote]I just don’t find anything like that out here in the East Bay. We have taqueros in people’s backyards, and that’s very distinct and fully immigrant-driven, so that feels fresh in the cycle. But with Korean food, you have all these restaurants, but the issue is that they’ve all been here for so long that nothing has been updated. They’re basically selling food from the ’80s — but Korean food updates, even the standard dishes. When something comes straight from there and lands here, it feels exciting. That doesn’t happen as much up here as it does around San Jose. \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13904835/san-jose-immigrant-food\">The restaurants down there are fire\u003c/a>. Unfortunately I can’t go to Cupertino for lunch.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13950795\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13950795\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/240122-GAGNAM-TOFU-MD-02-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"Two men seated across from each other inside a Korean restaurant.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/240122-GAGNAM-TOFU-MD-02-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/240122-GAGNAM-TOFU-MD-02-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/240122-GAGNAM-TOFU-MD-02-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/240122-GAGNAM-TOFU-MD-02-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/240122-GAGNAM-TOFU-MD-02-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/240122-GAGNAM-TOFU-MD-02-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/240122-GAGNAM-TOFU-MD-02-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Many Korean restaurants in the Bay Area are selling a version of Korean food that has been frozen in time since the 1980s, Kang says. \u003ccite>(Martin do Nascimento/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>So what are you working on next? What’s on your mind as a locally-based journalist with a national platform?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I write a lot about homelessness, so I’d like to continue to write and think about that. There’s tiny amounts of progress finally being made. It’s actually better than it was. For years here, we kind of felt like it could only get worse. But there are tiny indications things are getting a little bit better, that some of these interventions are working. People are just going to have to get used to the idea that the hotel down the street from their house where nobody ever stayed, that’s now a place for the people in the encampment that you didn’t like. They now live there. If you don’t like that, then I’m sorry. Obviously it’s going to take many, many years. And so following that is very interesting to me. They actually are reversing this thing that seems impossible to fix. I’m also going to write a lot about the upcoming election. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>You’ve had a decades-long career in this industry, which is currently struggling as \u003c/b>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/11973593/l-a-times-layoffs-decimate-journalists-of-color\">\u003cb>layoffs are decimating newsrooms across the country\u003c/b>\u003c/a>\u003cb>. What keeps you going?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I feel the need to write a lot. I used to write very infrequently, and I found that I actually enjoyed writing much more. It’s a way to organize one’s life. Having something to put out and putting it out feels good. Sometimes it’s not great, because you might only have a week to do it. But I’m learning to be fine with that and understanding the job is not to make everything perfect. I’ve really embraced that.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-12127869\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cdiv class=\"wDYxhc\" lang=\"en-US\" data-attrid=\"kc:/local:lu attribute list\" data-md=\"205\" data-hveid=\"CB4QAA\" data-ved=\"2ahUKEwiGt_a2mIOEAxV_LUQIHYdKB3wQ1rkBegQIHhAA\">\n\u003cdiv class=\"TLYLSe MaBy9\">\n\u003cdiv class=\"CJQ04\">\u003cem>Gangnam Tofu Korean Cuisine (11740 San Pablo Ave. Suite C, El Cerrito) is open Mon.–Fri. from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and 5 to 9 p.m.; Sat. and Sun. from 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m.\u003c/em>\u003c/div>\n\u003c/div>\n\u003c/div>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003ci>¡Hella Hungry! is a series of interviews with Bay Area foodmakers exploring the region’s culinary innovations through the mouth of a first-generation local.\u003c/i>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Inside \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://gangnamtofuusa.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Gangnam Tofu\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, a destination-worthy Korean restaurant in an otherwise unremarkable El Cerrito strip mall, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/jaycaspiankang?ref_src=twsrc%5Egoogle%7Ctwcamp%5Eserp%7Ctwgr%5Eauthor\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Jay Caspian Kang\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> orders a round of shareable dishes — galbi, honey-cheese fried chicken and budae jjigae (a wartime-era stew of mixed meats and noodles) — for us to split. As the lunch crowd pours in behind him, Kang tells me why he likes Gangnam over most other Asian eateries in the area: “I just want to eat standard Korean food that’s prepared well.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Though he surprisingly prefers his spicy food mild, the Korean-born \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://goodbye.substack.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">podcast host\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, novelist and \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">New Yorker \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">staff writer serves plenty of hot takes on everything from the shortcomings of technology (he’s an aspiring luddite) to the most underrated rap albums of the past quarter century (he stands with Mos Def in the internet feud against Drake). And when it comes to the hypocrisies of Bay Area politics, he especially \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.newyorker.com/news/our-columnists/london-breeds-cynical-swing-to-the-right\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">doesn’t hold back\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13950802\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13950802\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/240122-GAGNAM-TOFU-MD-09-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/240122-GAGNAM-TOFU-MD-09-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/240122-GAGNAM-TOFU-MD-09-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/240122-GAGNAM-TOFU-MD-09-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/240122-GAGNAM-TOFU-MD-09-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/240122-GAGNAM-TOFU-MD-09-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/240122-GAGNAM-TOFU-MD-09-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/240122-GAGNAM-TOFU-MD-09-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Best known for articles he’s written for national publications such as the New Yorker, Kang has lived in Berkeley since 2019. \u003ccite>(Martin do Nascimento/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Having settled in Berkeley after years of living in New York City and Los Angeles, Kang has developed a genuine appreciation for the Bay Area’s microcultures. Despite growing up on the East Coast and often writing about topics of national interest, Kang has in many ways become a quintessential Northern Californian: In his free time, you might find him surfing or wandering the aisles at Berkeley Bowl.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">And yet, he’s also someone who brings a worldly outsider’s unflinching perspective to controversial Bay Area topics such as the \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.newyorker.com/news/our-columnists/what-does-californias-homeless-population-actually-look-like\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">housing crisis\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> and \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2019/08/28/magazine/where-does-affirmative-action-leave-asian-americans.html\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">affirmative action\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. He’ll even let you know that \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/jaycaspiankang/status/1740961971498074151\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">the Asian food in Las Vegas is better than the Bay Area’s\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Perhaps \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13950363/keith-lee-tiktok-oakland-sf-bay-area-struggles\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">our region needs that tough love\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> now more than ever.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">While talking to the sports-loving dad and low-key hip-hop historian about the highs and lows of Bay Area living, I remembered why I love this quirky region so deeply, despite its complex truths. Here’s what everyone’s favorite \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/jaycaspiankang\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Tyler Hansborough evangelist\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> and \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.houseofstrauss.com/p/hos-jay-caspian-kang\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">reformed online troll\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> has to say about the state of the Bay — and its food offerings — in these precarious times.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">This interview has been edited for length and clarity.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp style=\"text-align: center\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">********\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Alan Chazaro: You were born in Korea, grew up in North Carolina and have lived in a ton of places. How long have you been in the Bay Area?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Jay Caspian Kang: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I went to college in New England, and then I went to New York for grad school. But after that, I moved out to California and lived here in San Francisco for six, seven years. I was working as a high school teacher. Then I moved to L.A., back to New York, and then right before the pandemic we moved back out here to Berkeley. It’s been four years now. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13950796\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13950796\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/240122-GAGNAM-TOFU-MD-03-KQED.jpg\" alt='Hand pointing to the \"honey cheese chicken\" on Korean restaurant menu.' width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/240122-GAGNAM-TOFU-MD-03-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/240122-GAGNAM-TOFU-MD-03-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/240122-GAGNAM-TOFU-MD-03-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/240122-GAGNAM-TOFU-MD-03-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/240122-GAGNAM-TOFU-MD-03-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/240122-GAGNAM-TOFU-MD-03-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/240122-GAGNAM-TOFU-MD-03-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Perusing the menu at GangNam Tofu . \u003ccite>(Martin do Nascimento/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>You’ve written about \u003c/b>\u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2015/07/22/magazine/writing-the-wave.html\">\u003cb>your passion for surfing\u003c/b>\u003c/a>\u003cb> in the Bay. What draws you to that?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I’m not a good surfer, but yeah, I spend most of my time thinking about surfing. For years, I just went to Ocean Beach all the time, and you get used to it and, you know, you learn how to avoid trouble. \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I go once or twice a week. That’s the only way you can do it: You have to prioritize it. Or else, if you don’t, then you don’t ever go. If I get a Zoom call, I’ll just cancel that. You have to live with some of the consequences after, but surfing is very necessary for my mental well-being.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>It sounds like you’ve reached some kind of Zen mindstate. Did you achieve that when you were living in Los Angeles?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I don’t really like to drive. And I’ve never liked Hollywood culture. I just find that the people I vibe most with are generally up here.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Who do you think is a good example of the Bay Area’s creativity and open-mindedness?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Look at MC Hammer. He grew up doing that boogaloo style of dancing in East Oakland. He downloaded that as a kid. He blew it up into worldwide fame in a modified kind of way. Now that he’s old, his presence on social media is just showing all these old videos of guys from his neighborhood dancing. I find it amazing that he’s willing to go back and show these kids from his block who were his influences, and he’s basically showing how that made him who he is. That’s community, music coming out of community. He’s interesting because he’s like the \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13909788/mc-hammer-oakland-redman-too-short-crips-louis-burrell-mc-serch-hit-e40\">most Oakland dude ever\u003c/a>, but he’s not always seen as being affiliated with that (laughs). \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13950797\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13950797\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/240122-GAGNAM-TOFU-MD-04-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/240122-GAGNAM-TOFU-MD-04-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/240122-GAGNAM-TOFU-MD-04-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/240122-GAGNAM-TOFU-MD-04-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/240122-GAGNAM-TOFU-MD-04-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/240122-GAGNAM-TOFU-MD-04-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/240122-GAGNAM-TOFU-MD-04-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/240122-GAGNAM-TOFU-MD-04-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Kang and KQED reporter Alan Chazaro put in their order. \u003ccite>(Martin do Nascimento/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>The Bay is weird like that. There’s a lot of different characters here.\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">It is weird. It’s interesting how someone like E-40 has become this sort of mascot as a rapper. He’s the dude. He’s like an entire persona. And people love him because he goes to all the games. I’ve never seen Too $hort at a game. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Did you grow up listening to a lot of Bay Area rap out on the East Coast?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I grew up listening to whatever you imagine a 44-year-old man would listen to (laughs). A Tribe Called Quest. Wu-Tang. Mobb Deep. Then you had the Bay Area, so there was like “Blowjob Betty” or whatever, and you would listen to it, and it was crazy because it was just so nasty. Luniz, Del [the Funky Homosapien]. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Del is the one I personally listened to the most. I still listen to him. The Deltron 3030 album is brilliant. The production on that album is \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">fucking\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> crazy. The whole concept is weird. [Bay Area producer] Dan the Automator had been messing with concept albums for a while. That was just a cool kind of rap with enough label support to make weird shit. That was before MF DOOM and all those dudes. It’s like Del imagining the future, and Del is awesome. He kills it. That album is low-key one of the 20 best rap albums ever. I hesitate to put it higher because is it as important as, say, KRS One? I don’t know. Listening to those KRS One albums can feel like you’re just doing your homework. I bet more people enjoyed Deltron 3030.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What’s more Bay Area than an Asian American producer teaming up with a nerdy Black dude from East Oakland to make a futuristic album about a fictional dystopian society?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Totally. And these guys were getting deeply influenced by the shit that’s happening with \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13812554/how-daly-citys-filipino-mobile-dj-scene-changed-hip-hop-forever\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Filipino DJs in Daly City\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. Every city has some version of that, but it’s so interesting in the Bay because it really is so multiracial. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>I wonder if the Bay Area still represents that as much as it once did. You commented on the whole \u003c/b>\u003cb>fiasco with TikTok food critic Keith Lee’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13950363/keith-lee-tiktok-oakland-sf-bay-area-struggles\">recent Bay Area visit\u003c/a>\u003c/b>\u003cb>. He said the Bay is “not a place for tourists” right now. What do you think about that?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">There’s no question that the Bay Area is going through a difficult time right now. If Keith Lee went to the Tenderloin and parts of East Oakland, which it seems like he did — or even if he went to 24th and Mission, which is highly trafficked — people when they come to the Bay Area and see that, it’s shocking to them. You have to be real about it. You don’t see that in New York. You see it in L.A. but it’s mostly in the Skid Row area. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The Bay Area has had these issues for a long time, but it was more contained and it didn’t feel like it was as big of a problem. When I moved to San Francisco around 2002, I got off BART at 16th Street. I was like, \u003cem>Wow, this is kind of wild\u003c/em>. And now that has really expanded to a lot of places where a lot more people go. So in the Bay, you get these people coming for conferences or just visiting to see Fisherman’s Wharf, and chances are the hotel is going to be in Union Square or directly in the Tenderloin. So when you leave your hotel, you’re seeing really bad shit. That shocks outsiders and contributes to an unfair narrative. If you put all of the hotels in L.A. on Skid Row, everyone would be saying the same thing about L.A. But at the same time, I think it’s good to bring attention to this problem: We have completely out-of-control homelessness in one of the richest cities in America, and that paradox and contradiction is impossible to resolve.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The way out of it is going to be super messy and will create reactionary elements. People like [\u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">San Fransicko \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">author] Michael Shellenberger believe all these \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/opinion/openforum/article/Michael-Shellenberger-s-narrative-of-California-17172493.php\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">drug addicts should just be put in jail.\u003c/span>\u003c/a> \u003ca href=\"https://invisiblepeople.tv/san-francisco-mayor-london-breed-joins-calls-to-punish-homeless-people-overturn-martin-v-boise/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">London Breed sometimes feels that way, too\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. But I think overall, those people are underestimating that the San Francisco Bay Area is a very progressive place. They will never accept us locking up these people. And that’s a good thing. The idea that you’re going to lock up the poor and throw away the key, it’s just not going to happen. Right now we’re in a period of extremes: of extreme cynicism and despair. And for good reason, because it’s fucking bad, you know? But I still wouldn’t trade places with anyone to live somewhere else in this country. It’s a trade-off.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13950799\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13950799\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/240122-GAGNAM-TOFU-MD-06-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/240122-GAGNAM-TOFU-MD-06-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/240122-GAGNAM-TOFU-MD-06-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/240122-GAGNAM-TOFU-MD-06-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/240122-GAGNAM-TOFU-MD-06-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/240122-GAGNAM-TOFU-MD-06-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/240122-GAGNAM-TOFU-MD-06-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/240122-GAGNAM-TOFU-MD-06-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Gangnam Tofu’s version of budae jjigae is a soft tofu stew loaded with sausage and noodles. \u003ccite>(Martin do Nascimento/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Despite our struggles, there’s so much to discover here and so many pockets of rich culture. You actually \u003c/b>\u003cb>had a take\u003c/b>\u003cb> that most of the \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/jaycaspiankang/status/1740965943998927231\">Asian food in the Bay Area is bad\u003c/a>, outside of in San Jose. I’m not sure many outsiders, or even locals, would voice that.\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">So here’s the thing. This is just my theory. Immigrant food is only really good in a certain time period after the people who are making it have immigrated here. For example, new Chinese populations in the United States will have much better food in their restaurants, and in those areas where they are living, than older, established Chinese populations. And the reason for that is very simple. It’s that food on the mainland continues to evolve, right? But the immigrants who have been living here for decades don’t. They’re frozen in time. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>My parents left Korea in 1978, and they never go back except for a little visit throughout 25 years. And by 1999, their understanding of Korean cuisine is basically frozen in 1978, because every single other person who owns a Korean restaurant also came around that same time, because there was a big wave of immigration from ’75 to ’79. I know that in San Francisco you have a multi-generational embedded Chinese population. But at this point, like, what are we even eating? \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">A lot of Chinese restaurants [in San Francisco] feel like they’re a movie set or something. It’s very charming, but it’s very old school. In the Richmond, there are places you can find that are exceptions to that. But right now, the cradle for the best Chinese food is from Cupertino to Mountain View, all around Silicon Valley. And the reason for that is because there are a lot of new Chinese immigrants that are coming to work there. In addition to that, there’s this \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13904913/vietnamese-drinks-boba-che-guide-san-jose\">Vietnamese mall culture in San Jose\u003c/a>. It’s getting a little old-fashioned, but it’s still super vibrant. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "‘Food on the mainland continues to evolve, right? But the immigrants who have been living here for decades don’t. They’re frozen in time.’",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>I just don’t find anything like that out here in the East Bay. We have taqueros in people’s backyards, and that’s very distinct and fully immigrant-driven, so that feels fresh in the cycle. But with Korean food, you have all these restaurants, but the issue is that they’ve all been here for so long that nothing has been updated. They’re basically selling food from the ’80s — but Korean food updates, even the standard dishes. When something comes straight from there and lands here, it feels exciting. That doesn’t happen as much up here as it does around San Jose. \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13904835/san-jose-immigrant-food\">The restaurants down there are fire\u003c/a>. Unfortunately I can’t go to Cupertino for lunch.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13950795\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13950795\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/240122-GAGNAM-TOFU-MD-02-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"Two men seated across from each other inside a Korean restaurant.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/240122-GAGNAM-TOFU-MD-02-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/240122-GAGNAM-TOFU-MD-02-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/240122-GAGNAM-TOFU-MD-02-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/240122-GAGNAM-TOFU-MD-02-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/240122-GAGNAM-TOFU-MD-02-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/240122-GAGNAM-TOFU-MD-02-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/240122-GAGNAM-TOFU-MD-02-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Many Korean restaurants in the Bay Area are selling a version of Korean food that has been frozen in time since the 1980s, Kang says. \u003ccite>(Martin do Nascimento/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>So what are you working on next? What’s on your mind as a locally-based journalist with a national platform?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I write a lot about homelessness, so I’d like to continue to write and think about that. There’s tiny amounts of progress finally being made. It’s actually better than it was. For years here, we kind of felt like it could only get worse. But there are tiny indications things are getting a little bit better, that some of these interventions are working. People are just going to have to get used to the idea that the hotel down the street from their house where nobody ever stayed, that’s now a place for the people in the encampment that you didn’t like. They now live there. If you don’t like that, then I’m sorry. Obviously it’s going to take many, many years. And so following that is very interesting to me. They actually are reversing this thing that seems impossible to fix. I’m also going to write a lot about the upcoming election. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>You’ve had a decades-long career in this industry, which is currently struggling as \u003c/b>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/11973593/l-a-times-layoffs-decimate-journalists-of-color\">\u003cb>layoffs are decimating newsrooms across the country\u003c/b>\u003c/a>\u003cb>. What keeps you going?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I feel the need to write a lot. I used to write very infrequently, and I found that I actually enjoyed writing much more. It’s a way to organize one’s life. Having something to put out and putting it out feels good. Sometimes it’s not great, because you might only have a week to do it. But I’m learning to be fine with that and understanding the job is not to make everything perfect. I’ve really embraced that.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-12127869\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cdiv class=\"wDYxhc\" lang=\"en-US\" data-attrid=\"kc:/local:lu attribute list\" data-md=\"205\" data-hveid=\"CB4QAA\" data-ved=\"2ahUKEwiGt_a2mIOEAxV_LUQIHYdKB3wQ1rkBegQIHhAA\">\n\u003cdiv class=\"TLYLSe MaBy9\">\n\u003cdiv class=\"CJQ04\">\u003cem>Gangnam Tofu Korean Cuisine (11740 San Pablo Ave. Suite C, El Cerrito) is open Mon.–Fri. from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and 5 to 9 p.m.; Sat. and Sun. from 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m.\u003c/em>\u003c/div>\n\u003c/div>\n\u003c/div>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "Hang Out With Your Favorite Bay Area Authors at Reem’s Gaza Ceasefire Event",
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"content": "\u003cp>For months, Bay Area artists have been vocal about the ongoing humanitarian crisis in Gaza. Indie folk singers have \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13940325/mixtape-for-palestine-meca-benefit-compilation\">sold mixtapes\u003c/a> to provide aid to Palestinian children, silkscreen artists have distributed \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13937170/the-art-of-protest-in-san-francisco-5-messages-from-the-gaza-rally\">hand-printed protest signs\u003c/a>, and queer DJs and drag performers have \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/11969701/this-is-resistance-how-queer-palestinian-artists-and-activists-in-the-bay-area-are-making-themselves-heard\">organized street protests\u003c/a>. Through it all, members of the local food community and literary scene have been especially outspoken.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To wit, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/reemscalifornia/?hl=en\">Reem’s\u003c/a>, the much-lauded Mission District Arab bakery, will host a Gaza fundraiser and ceasefire letter-writing event tonight with a notable literary bent: \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/C2kvdWhPM7W/?hl=en\">Many of the Bay Area’s most celebrated writers\u003c/a> — including, quite possibly, \u003ci>your\u003c/i> favorite writer — will be on hand to help champion the cause.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Among those attending are Pulitzer and National Book Award–nominated memoirist \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/forum/2010101890081/ingrid-rojas-contreras-new-memoir-explores-amnesia-family-history-and-ghosts\">Ingrid Rojas Contreras\u003c/a>; acclaimed novelists \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13897684/pandemic-taiwanese-food-liangs-village\">Esmé Weijun Wang\u003c/a>, R.O. Kwon and Jamil Jan Kochai; anti-capitalist thinker \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13855917/in-how-to-do-nothing-a-simple-near-impossible-challenge\">Jenny Odell\u003c/a>; superstar children’s author \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13927861/scholastic-wanted-to-license-her-childrens-book-if-she-cut-a-part-about-racism\">Maggie Takuda-Hall\u003c/a>; and more. It’s a rare opportunity for Bay Area book lovers to hang out in a casual setting with \u003ci>so much\u003c/i> literary talent in one room.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13940325,arts_13915986']\u003c/span>The main focus of the event will be for attendees to spend an hour or two writing letters to their state and federal representatives (on postcards provided by City Lights Bookstore), demanding that they push for a ceasefire in Gaza. As an added perk, chef Reem Assil’s team will serve pastries, mezzes and drinks to everyone who attends. (Assil’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.hospitality-for-humanity.com/\">Hospitality for Humanity\u003c/a> — a pledge signed by food and beverage workers calling for a ceasefire in Gaza — is probably the most \u003ca href=\"https://www.eater.com/23942299/hospitality-for-humanity-palestine-israel-hamas-war-interview-reem-assil\">prominent ceasefire advocacy group\u003c/a>, nationally, within the food industry.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The letter-writing campaign comes as the Israeli military’s siege of Gaza rapidly approaches its fourth month, with a death toll of \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/2024/01/21/1225883522/palestinian-death-toll-soars-past-25-000-in-gaza-with-no-end-to-war-in-sight\">more than 25,000 Palestinians\u003c/a> in the aftermath of Hamas’ Oct. 7 attack, which killed approximately \u003ca href=\"https://apnews.com/article/israel-hamas-war-news-01-21-2024-02caafa092668ecc7ff122229c166807\">1,200 Israelis\u003c/a> and took another 250 hostage.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tickets can be purchased in the form of a donation of at least $5 to a fundraiser, organized by Rojas Contreras, benefitting World Central Kitchen’s operations to \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/C2qdkwev4Pg/\">provide hot meals\u003c/a> to Palestinians on the ground in Gaza.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-12127869\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>The \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/C2kvdWhPM7W/\">letter-writing event\u003c/a> at Reem’s (2901 Mission St., San Francisco) takes place on Monday, Jan. 29, from 5–7 p.m. The entry fee is a \u003ca href=\"https://www.gofundme.com/f/ceasefire-fundraising-for-world-central-kitchen?utm_campaign=unknown&utm_content=undefined&utm_medium=referral&utm_source=linktr.ee\">donation of at least $5\u003c/a> to World Central Kitchen’s relief efforts in Gaza.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>For months, Bay Area artists have been vocal about the ongoing humanitarian crisis in Gaza. Indie folk singers have \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13940325/mixtape-for-palestine-meca-benefit-compilation\">sold mixtapes\u003c/a> to provide aid to Palestinian children, silkscreen artists have distributed \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13937170/the-art-of-protest-in-san-francisco-5-messages-from-the-gaza-rally\">hand-printed protest signs\u003c/a>, and queer DJs and drag performers have \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/11969701/this-is-resistance-how-queer-palestinian-artists-and-activists-in-the-bay-area-are-making-themselves-heard\">organized street protests\u003c/a>. Through it all, members of the local food community and literary scene have been especially outspoken.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To wit, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/reemscalifornia/?hl=en\">Reem’s\u003c/a>, the much-lauded Mission District Arab bakery, will host a Gaza fundraiser and ceasefire letter-writing event tonight with a notable literary bent: \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/C2kvdWhPM7W/?hl=en\">Many of the Bay Area’s most celebrated writers\u003c/a> — including, quite possibly, \u003ci>your\u003c/i> favorite writer — will be on hand to help champion the cause.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Among those attending are Pulitzer and National Book Award–nominated memoirist \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/forum/2010101890081/ingrid-rojas-contreras-new-memoir-explores-amnesia-family-history-and-ghosts\">Ingrid Rojas Contreras\u003c/a>; acclaimed novelists \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13897684/pandemic-taiwanese-food-liangs-village\">Esmé Weijun Wang\u003c/a>, R.O. Kwon and Jamil Jan Kochai; anti-capitalist thinker \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13855917/in-how-to-do-nothing-a-simple-near-impossible-challenge\">Jenny Odell\u003c/a>; superstar children’s author \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13927861/scholastic-wanted-to-license-her-childrens-book-if-she-cut-a-part-about-racism\">Maggie Takuda-Hall\u003c/a>; and more. It’s a rare opportunity for Bay Area book lovers to hang out in a casual setting with \u003ci>so much\u003c/i> literary talent in one room.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>The main focus of the event will be for attendees to spend an hour or two writing letters to their state and federal representatives (on postcards provided by City Lights Bookstore), demanding that they push for a ceasefire in Gaza. As an added perk, chef Reem Assil’s team will serve pastries, mezzes and drinks to everyone who attends. (Assil’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.hospitality-for-humanity.com/\">Hospitality for Humanity\u003c/a> — a pledge signed by food and beverage workers calling for a ceasefire in Gaza — is probably the most \u003ca href=\"https://www.eater.com/23942299/hospitality-for-humanity-palestine-israel-hamas-war-interview-reem-assil\">prominent ceasefire advocacy group\u003c/a>, nationally, within the food industry.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The letter-writing campaign comes as the Israeli military’s siege of Gaza rapidly approaches its fourth month, with a death toll of \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/2024/01/21/1225883522/palestinian-death-toll-soars-past-25-000-in-gaza-with-no-end-to-war-in-sight\">more than 25,000 Palestinians\u003c/a> in the aftermath of Hamas’ Oct. 7 attack, which killed approximately \u003ca href=\"https://apnews.com/article/israel-hamas-war-news-01-21-2024-02caafa092668ecc7ff122229c166807\">1,200 Israelis\u003c/a> and took another 250 hostage.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tickets can be purchased in the form of a donation of at least $5 to a fundraiser, organized by Rojas Contreras, benefitting World Central Kitchen’s operations to \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/C2qdkwev4Pg/\">provide hot meals\u003c/a> to Palestinians on the ground in Gaza.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-12127869\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>The \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/C2kvdWhPM7W/\">letter-writing event\u003c/a> at Reem’s (2901 Mission St., San Francisco) takes place on Monday, Jan. 29, from 5–7 p.m. The entry fee is a \u003ca href=\"https://www.gofundme.com/f/ceasefire-fundraising-for-world-central-kitchen?utm_campaign=unknown&utm_content=undefined&utm_medium=referral&utm_source=linktr.ee\">donation of at least $5\u003c/a> to World Central Kitchen’s relief efforts in Gaza.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "Sohla El-Waylly Cements Her Starring Role With a Thrilling Debut Cookbook",
"headTitle": "Sohla El-Waylly Cements Her Starring Role With a Thrilling Debut Cookbook | KQED",
"content": "\u003cp>Sohla El-Waylly is a culinary maverick of our time: She knows how to deactivate the surface starches of rice for the perfect pilaf, she’s made crudités sexy by sheer force of will and she’s spoken truth to power with lasting impacts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>El-Waylly’s highly-anticipated first cookbook, \u003ci>Start Here: Instructions for Becoming a Better Cook\u003c/i>, is the this-is-just-the-beginning hat tip of a chef who’s quickly won over the hearts of home cooks all over the world — and who’s already planning her next book.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Back in 2020, El-Waylly said she wasn’t being equitably compensated for her work as an assistant food editor at Bon Appetit, a public statement that became a part of a much larger racial reckoning in food media. It also launched \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RNnBPM0Y9gU&ab_channel=Natalie\">fan-made supercuts\u003c/a> of every time El-Waylly was called over by white colleagues to temper chocolate or give her expert advice on using masa harina, all uncompensated. It’s the classic story of an undervalued woman of color shamelessly confused with the other South Asian woman in the office by her own boss — but onstage at the 92nd Street Y \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5sj7L30851Q&ab_channel=LisaPhamFlowers\">for the whole internet to see\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>El-Waylly launched herself out of Bon Appetit and into everywhere else: \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8i7fVY596mY&t=152s\">Food 52\u003c/a>, the History Channel, the \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ybNex3XsgFc&t=73s&ab_channel=NYTCooking\">New York Times Cooking channel\u003c/a>, the \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XXnlVlkkkxM&ab_channel=BabishCulinaryUniverse\">Babish Culinary Universe\u003c/a> and an HBO series that she co-hosted with actor Dan Levy. Her obvious culinary mastery that doesn’t stop at how to cook something but why you cook it that way — on a chemical level — coupled with her punchy witticisms and flaky salt-of-the-earth sincerity has earned her prime time in the pantheon of unmistakably cool internet personalities.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I always struggled to learn the way I was \u003ci>supposed\u003c/i> to learn, whether in the high school geography class I had to repeat or in a restaurant kitchen following a chef’s blunt commands,” she writes in the book’s introduction.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What emerges from El-Waylly’s candid trove of fumbles and failures is a person who really knows what she’s talking about — who can tell you exactly where you went wrong because she’s been there herself.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ahead of her San Francisco book tour appearances on January 29 and 30, I talked to El-Waylly about how to host a dinner party that will cure winter blues and what she ate the last time she visited the Bay, as a depressed undergrad over 20 years ago.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>This interview has been edited for length and clarity\u003c/i>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp style=\"text-align: center\">********\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>OLIVIA CRUZ MAYEDA:\u003c/b> Your new cookbook weaves in guidance and anecdotes that feel resonant in the kitchen and outside it, too. What do you hope people take with them from \u003ci>Start Here\u003c/i> as they move through the world?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>SOHLA EL-WAYLLY: \u003c/b>I think the biggest message is that you’re going to mess up, and it’s going to be okay — that’s the main thing. I think that a lot of times people don’t even try stuff because they’re afraid of failing or just not being good at it. But I think it’s important to remember that everyone’s terrible at everything in the beginning, and you just have to push through that phase of maybe making a lot of bad food, and it will eventually get good. I think that really applies to everything in life.\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote class=\"tiktok-embed\" style=\"max-width: 605px;min-width: 325px\" cite=\"https://www.tiktok.com/@sohlae/video/7283990481220963626\" data-video-id=\"7283990481220963626\">\n\u003csection>\u003ca title=\"@sohlae\" href=\"https://www.tiktok.com/@sohlae?refer=embed\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">@sohlae\u003c/a> Here’s another peek from my cookbook, START HERE! (Have you preordered yet!?) In it, I teach you techniques, so eventually you won’t need recipes any more! Like this method for the best crispy, juicy, seared & braised chicken thighs. Make it like me with salsa verde and zucchini, or make it your own with cauliflower & curry, carrots & bone broth, or however the hell you want! Photos @Laura hi \u003ca title=\"♬ Sweet Dreams - Trinix\" href=\"https://www.tiktok.com/music/Sweet-Dreams-6795037315535210498?refer=embed\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">♬ Sweet Dreams – Trinix\u003c/a>\u003c/section>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>[tiktok]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>The \u003c/b>\u003cb>\u003ci>New York Times\u003c/i>\u003c/b>\u003cb> called your cookbook “the new \u003c/b>\u003cb>\u003ci>Joy of Cooking\u003c/i>\u003c/b>\u003cb>.” What cookbooks or food personalities most influenced you when you were starting out?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Every day after school, I’d watch Jacques Torres. He had this show on PBS called “Desert Circus.” It had a really fun intro, and he’d roll around on roller skates. He did a chocolate sculpture once, and he had all these molds. And then he was like, “Anything can be a mold.” And he grabbed that air conditioner filter and molded chocolate on that, so then I went and I grabbed the filter out of the air conditioner! A lot of people can be a little rigid and, especially with pastry, be like, “You have to get this piping tip,” you know, “and you need this cake pan.” But he showed how you can make things work with what you have. And I feel like that really inspired me.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What are you looking forward to during your visit to the Bay Area? Any foods in particular?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Well, I haven’t been in a really long time, but I went to school at UC Irvine. And I was really depressed. So the thing to do was to just drive to San Francisco all the way up [the Pacific Coast Highway]. And then get clam chowder at, like, five in the morning. I want to go to that pier that I went to and try to get some clam chowder.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>I first encountered your work when you were still working at Bon Appetit, where you were part of a racial reckoning at the publication but also in food media at large. Do you feel like any meaningful change has happened since then?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It does feel like there’s more diverse voices that are out there now. But I think that the biggest thing — and I don’t even think this has anything to do with anything I did or anything that happened — is just that people have their own platforms now. With social media, the people are picking who gets to be uplifted. I really like that there’s a lot of cool independent creators who I don’t think would have had a huge voice with traditional media. One of my favorite people is — Black Forager is her handle — \u003ca href=\"https://www.tiktok.com/@alexisnikole?lang=en\">Alexis Nicole\u003c/a>. I love her. I learn so much from her videos. And she’s someone that did it completely on her own, and the people picked her. I just love that there’s more and more voices like that because we don’t need the traditional media anymore.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>I\u003c/i> only exist because of the people who support me. I know that. And it’s really heartwarming that I have this support and this really loving community. And it’s also scary because I hope I’m giving them enough, you know what I mean? I totally exist because of individuals who believe in me, not because of one big, faceless corporation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/CzKW8Xov-Or/?igsh=ZWI2YzEzYmMxYg%3D%3D\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>There’s so much heaviness in the world right now from the Congo to Sudan to Palestine. You signed onto — along with Berkeley chef Samin Nosrat — the \u003c/b>\u003ca href=\"https://www.hospitality-for-humanity.com/\">\u003cb>Hospitality for Humanity\u003c/b>\u003c/a>\u003cb> pledge, a coalition of food and beverage workers calling for a ceasefire in Gaza, co-organized by another Bay Area chef, Reem Assil. How do you hope food and chefs can play a role in social justice and political organizing?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s tough. I feel like a lot of what happens is people just repost things, which I also was doing for a while, but I stopped because I saw a lot of prominent people who posted misinformation by accident with the best intentions because we’re not journalists, we’re not politicians. It’s easy to not know exactly what’s a real post.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So I think the better way is just to focus on bringing awareness with what we do best, which is food. And I think it’s really important, especially with what’s happening in Palestine, to humanize the people there by just sharing more of their culture. I like talking about the food and celebrating the positive things that are happening over there.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>I love the deep dives into food history and food science that feel like throughlines in your work. Is there anything you’ve been nerding out about recently?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13921460,arts_13919177,arts_13926618']\u003c/span>Well, I’m currently working on my next book. The first one, I knew exactly what I wanted the book to accomplish. So for the next book, I don’t really have a plan, and I’m just letting myself learn about things that are interesting to me, and I’m just cooking stuff that I’m into. So I’ve just really been into princess cake lately. I’ve always seen them, but the ones from the grocery store are usually not very good, if we’re being totally honest. That marzipan is a little stale. But making a fresh one kind of blew me away with how delicious it is. So now I just want to learn more about princess cake and marzipan. I want to be someone where anytime you come over to my house — even if it’s a Tuesday — I made you a princess cake.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>I’m having a small dinner party tomorrow with a few friends. What’s a menu from recipes in your book that you’d recommend for a vibey but not super high-maintenance dinner to cure our winter blues?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I think for appetizers, there’s a shrimp cocktail in the book that’s really fun, and broiled oysters. But most of the time when we have people over, I can’t wrap my head around all that. So I’ll make a quick crudités plate. I love having some crunchy veg before a meal because it’s kind of like palate cleanser vibes. Try radishes and some Asian pear. There’s a ranch fun dip recipe in the book using pistachios — that’s fantastic. So put all the veggies on ice and get a nice glass bowl for the fun dip. People don’t give crudités respect, but you can make it really sexy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the main, maybe make those braised short ribs. You can make them the same day, but they are a lot better if you dry-brine them tonight. And then I really like to serve that with steamed vegetables, like some really nice broccolini and carrots.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And then dessert: I think you should go for the chocolate pudding pie.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-12127869\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>El-Waylly will be signing copies of \u003c/i>Start Here\u003ci> at \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://omnivorebooks.myshopify.com/products/sohla-el-waylly-book-signing-start-here-instructions-for-becoming-a-better-cook\">\u003ci>Omnivore Books\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> (3885 Cesar Chavez St., San Francisco) at 4 p.m. on January 30, following her \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.jccsf.org/event/sohla-el-waylly-start-here/\">\u003ci>sold-out book event\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> at the Jewish Community Center of San Francisco on January 29.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Sohla El-Waylly is a culinary maverick of our time: She knows how to deactivate the surface starches of rice for the perfect pilaf, she’s made crudités sexy by sheer force of will and she’s spoken truth to power with lasting impacts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>El-Waylly’s highly-anticipated first cookbook, \u003ci>Start Here: Instructions for Becoming a Better Cook\u003c/i>, is the this-is-just-the-beginning hat tip of a chef who’s quickly won over the hearts of home cooks all over the world — and who’s already planning her next book.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Back in 2020, El-Waylly said she wasn’t being equitably compensated for her work as an assistant food editor at Bon Appetit, a public statement that became a part of a much larger racial reckoning in food media. It also launched \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RNnBPM0Y9gU&ab_channel=Natalie\">fan-made supercuts\u003c/a> of every time El-Waylly was called over by white colleagues to temper chocolate or give her expert advice on using masa harina, all uncompensated. It’s the classic story of an undervalued woman of color shamelessly confused with the other South Asian woman in the office by her own boss — but onstage at the 92nd Street Y \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5sj7L30851Q&ab_channel=LisaPhamFlowers\">for the whole internet to see\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>El-Waylly launched herself out of Bon Appetit and into everywhere else: \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8i7fVY596mY&t=152s\">Food 52\u003c/a>, the History Channel, the \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ybNex3XsgFc&t=73s&ab_channel=NYTCooking\">New York Times Cooking channel\u003c/a>, the \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XXnlVlkkkxM&ab_channel=BabishCulinaryUniverse\">Babish Culinary Universe\u003c/a> and an HBO series that she co-hosted with actor Dan Levy. Her obvious culinary mastery that doesn’t stop at how to cook something but why you cook it that way — on a chemical level — coupled with her punchy witticisms and flaky salt-of-the-earth sincerity has earned her prime time in the pantheon of unmistakably cool internet personalities.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I always struggled to learn the way I was \u003ci>supposed\u003c/i> to learn, whether in the high school geography class I had to repeat or in a restaurant kitchen following a chef’s blunt commands,” she writes in the book’s introduction.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What emerges from El-Waylly’s candid trove of fumbles and failures is a person who really knows what she’s talking about — who can tell you exactly where you went wrong because she’s been there herself.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ahead of her San Francisco book tour appearances on January 29 and 30, I talked to El-Waylly about how to host a dinner party that will cure winter blues and what she ate the last time she visited the Bay, as a depressed undergrad over 20 years ago.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>This interview has been edited for length and clarity\u003c/i>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp style=\"text-align: center\">********\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>OLIVIA CRUZ MAYEDA:\u003c/b> Your new cookbook weaves in guidance and anecdotes that feel resonant in the kitchen and outside it, too. What do you hope people take with them from \u003ci>Start Here\u003c/i> as they move through the world?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>SOHLA EL-WAYLLY: \u003c/b>I think the biggest message is that you’re going to mess up, and it’s going to be okay — that’s the main thing. I think that a lot of times people don’t even try stuff because they’re afraid of failing or just not being good at it. But I think it’s important to remember that everyone’s terrible at everything in the beginning, and you just have to push through that phase of maybe making a lot of bad food, and it will eventually get good. I think that really applies to everything in life.\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote class=\"tiktok-embed\" style=\"max-width: 605px;min-width: 325px\" cite=\"https://www.tiktok.com/@sohlae/video/7283990481220963626\" data-video-id=\"7283990481220963626\">\n\u003csection>\u003ca title=\"@sohlae\" href=\"https://www.tiktok.com/@sohlae?refer=embed\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">@sohlae\u003c/a> Here’s another peek from my cookbook, START HERE! (Have you preordered yet!?) In it, I teach you techniques, so eventually you won’t need recipes any more! Like this method for the best crispy, juicy, seared & braised chicken thighs. Make it like me with salsa verde and zucchini, or make it your own with cauliflower & curry, carrots & bone broth, or however the hell you want! Photos @Laura hi \u003ca title=\"♬ Sweet Dreams - Trinix\" href=\"https://www.tiktok.com/music/Sweet-Dreams-6795037315535210498?refer=embed\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">♬ Sweet Dreams – Trinix\u003c/a>\u003c/section>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>The \u003c/b>\u003cb>\u003ci>New York Times\u003c/i>\u003c/b>\u003cb> called your cookbook “the new \u003c/b>\u003cb>\u003ci>Joy of Cooking\u003c/i>\u003c/b>\u003cb>.” What cookbooks or food personalities most influenced you when you were starting out?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Every day after school, I’d watch Jacques Torres. He had this show on PBS called “Desert Circus.” It had a really fun intro, and he’d roll around on roller skates. He did a chocolate sculpture once, and he had all these molds. And then he was like, “Anything can be a mold.” And he grabbed that air conditioner filter and molded chocolate on that, so then I went and I grabbed the filter out of the air conditioner! A lot of people can be a little rigid and, especially with pastry, be like, “You have to get this piping tip,” you know, “and you need this cake pan.” But he showed how you can make things work with what you have. And I feel like that really inspired me.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What are you looking forward to during your visit to the Bay Area? Any foods in particular?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Well, I haven’t been in a really long time, but I went to school at UC Irvine. And I was really depressed. So the thing to do was to just drive to San Francisco all the way up [the Pacific Coast Highway]. And then get clam chowder at, like, five in the morning. I want to go to that pier that I went to and try to get some clam chowder.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>I first encountered your work when you were still working at Bon Appetit, where you were part of a racial reckoning at the publication but also in food media at large. Do you feel like any meaningful change has happened since then?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It does feel like there’s more diverse voices that are out there now. But I think that the biggest thing — and I don’t even think this has anything to do with anything I did or anything that happened — is just that people have their own platforms now. With social media, the people are picking who gets to be uplifted. I really like that there’s a lot of cool independent creators who I don’t think would have had a huge voice with traditional media. One of my favorite people is — Black Forager is her handle — \u003ca href=\"https://www.tiktok.com/@alexisnikole?lang=en\">Alexis Nicole\u003c/a>. I love her. I learn so much from her videos. And she’s someone that did it completely on her own, and the people picked her. I just love that there’s more and more voices like that because we don’t need the traditional media anymore.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>I\u003c/i> only exist because of the people who support me. I know that. And it’s really heartwarming that I have this support and this really loving community. And it’s also scary because I hope I’m giving them enough, you know what I mean? I totally exist because of individuals who believe in me, not because of one big, faceless corporation.\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cb>There’s so much heaviness in the world right now from the Congo to Sudan to Palestine. You signed onto — along with Berkeley chef Samin Nosrat — the \u003c/b>\u003ca href=\"https://www.hospitality-for-humanity.com/\">\u003cb>Hospitality for Humanity\u003c/b>\u003c/a>\u003cb> pledge, a coalition of food and beverage workers calling for a ceasefire in Gaza, co-organized by another Bay Area chef, Reem Assil. How do you hope food and chefs can play a role in social justice and political organizing?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s tough. I feel like a lot of what happens is people just repost things, which I also was doing for a while, but I stopped because I saw a lot of prominent people who posted misinformation by accident with the best intentions because we’re not journalists, we’re not politicians. It’s easy to not know exactly what’s a real post.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So I think the better way is just to focus on bringing awareness with what we do best, which is food. And I think it’s really important, especially with what’s happening in Palestine, to humanize the people there by just sharing more of their culture. I like talking about the food and celebrating the positive things that are happening over there.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>I love the deep dives into food history and food science that feel like throughlines in your work. Is there anything you’ve been nerding out about recently?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>Well, I’m currently working on my next book. The first one, I knew exactly what I wanted the book to accomplish. So for the next book, I don’t really have a plan, and I’m just letting myself learn about things that are interesting to me, and I’m just cooking stuff that I’m into. So I’ve just really been into princess cake lately. I’ve always seen them, but the ones from the grocery store are usually not very good, if we’re being totally honest. That marzipan is a little stale. But making a fresh one kind of blew me away with how delicious it is. So now I just want to learn more about princess cake and marzipan. I want to be someone where anytime you come over to my house — even if it’s a Tuesday — I made you a princess cake.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>I’m having a small dinner party tomorrow with a few friends. What’s a menu from recipes in your book that you’d recommend for a vibey but not super high-maintenance dinner to cure our winter blues?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I think for appetizers, there’s a shrimp cocktail in the book that’s really fun, and broiled oysters. But most of the time when we have people over, I can’t wrap my head around all that. So I’ll make a quick crudités plate. I love having some crunchy veg before a meal because it’s kind of like palate cleanser vibes. Try radishes and some Asian pear. There’s a ranch fun dip recipe in the book using pistachios — that’s fantastic. So put all the veggies on ice and get a nice glass bowl for the fun dip. People don’t give crudités respect, but you can make it really sexy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the main, maybe make those braised short ribs. You can make them the same day, but they are a lot better if you dry-brine them tonight. And then I really like to serve that with steamed vegetables, like some really nice broccolini and carrots.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And then dessert: I think you should go for the chocolate pudding pie.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-12127869\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>El-Waylly will be signing copies of \u003c/i>Start Here\u003ci> at \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://omnivorebooks.myshopify.com/products/sohla-el-waylly-book-signing-start-here-instructions-for-becoming-a-better-cook\">\u003ci>Omnivore Books\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> (3885 Cesar Chavez St., San Francisco) at 4 p.m. on January 30, following her \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.jccsf.org/event/sohla-el-waylly-start-here/\">\u003ci>sold-out book event\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> at the Jewish Community Center of San Francisco on January 29.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>New York has Katz’s. L.A. has Langer’s. The Bay Area, on the other hand, has never really had a true destination pastrami spot — at least not until \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13917120/delirama-pastrami-berkeley-opening-hella-hungry\">Delirama opened\u003c/a> its cheery Solano Avenue storefront in \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/berkeley\">Berkeley\u003c/a> two summers ago. Biting into the restaurant’s “OG” sandwich for the first time, I could imagine a future, 10 or 20 years from now, when Delirama would be exactly that: the kind of beloved neighborhood institution that out-of-towners would plan road trips around.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, that pastrami-scented fever dream has been put on hold, as the deli has closed, according to an announcement posted on \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/C2cvTALxHyy/\">Instagram\u003c/a> today.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Delirama was a labor of love for Cash Caris and Anahita Cann, who started the pop-up \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/pyrospastrami/?hl=en\">Pyro’s Pastrami\u003c/a> in 2020 as a vehicle for Caris’ lifelong love affair with the Jewish deli smoked meat staple. The couple opened their brick-and-mortar storefront in August of 2022, with an all-things-pastrami menu — pastrami pizza! pastrami tacos! pastrami-fat potato chips! — that drew lines around the block from day one.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13950839\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13950839\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/delirama-line.jpg\" alt=\"A long line of customers wait outside Delirama restaurant.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"2000\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/delirama-line.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/delirama-line-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/delirama-line-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/delirama-line-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/delirama-line-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/delirama-line-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/delirama-line-1920x1920.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">In its early days, Delirama often attracted long lines during the lunch rush. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>This was a rare instance where reality lived up to hype. A pastrami sandwich at Delirama became my go-to leisurely “island day” lunch, for those rare occasions when, say, my family was out of town and I had no responsibilities to attend to. I’d snag a seat at the window and luxuriate over one of Caris’ two-handed sandwiches: thick slices of butter-griddled rye bread, a swipe of mustard and a big pile of lusciously fatty, crisp-edged pastrami.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">\u003cb>\u003cstrong>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13917120,arts_13921917']\u003c/span>\u003c/strong>\u003c/b>\u003c/span>Keeping a small restaurant afloat is always a precarious enterprise, but Delirama was pushed to the brink by a particularly disastrous turn of events: Last March, a \u003ca href=\"https://abc7news.com/delirama-berkeley-bay-area-power-outages-gofundme-pg-e/13038723/\">four-day power outage\u003c/a> caused all of the food in their walk-in fridge to spoil, including 2,000 pounds of the brisket Caris brines and smokes to make the restaurant’s pastrami. At the time, Caris told the \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/restaurants/article/spoiled-pastrami-delirama-17858366.php\">\u003ci>Chronicle\u003c/i>\u003c/a> they’d been counting on that pastrami to generate $100,000 of revenue.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Delirama held on for another 10 months after that, diversifying its menu with additional non-pastrami items and, more recently, rolling out a budget version of its signature pastrami sandwich bulked up by a layer of those pastrami-fat chips. In the end, it wasn’t enough.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“The truth is that what I was trying to do was impossible and the longer I did it the more apparent it became,” Caris wrote in the Instagram post announcing the closure.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13921981\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13921981\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/delirama_og.jpg\" alt=\"A massive sandwich overflowing with pastrami and slaw.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/delirama_og.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/delirama_og-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/delirama_og-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/delirama_og-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/delirama_og-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/delirama_og-1536x1152.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Another view of the OG. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Which isn’t to say that his dream of a pastrami empire is necessarily over. The deli’s planned expansion into Oakland, \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/restaurants/article/delirama-oakland-18375892.php\">Delirama Jr.\u003c/a>, appears to still be on track for later this year. For now, Caris and Cann haven’t given up the Solano Avenue space either, but are instead planning to transition it into some\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/C2cvTALxHyy/c/17972485691662429/r/18018311552012808/\"> new, non-deli restaurant concept\u003c/a>. And who knows? In the past, Caris has said he \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13917120/delirama-pastrami-berkeley-opening-hella-hungry\">would love to bring Delirama to San Jose\u003c/a>, where he grew up.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What’s clear, however, is that Delirama was a successful proof of concept in at least one sense: Its popularity — along with the sizable local followings for established pastrami institutions like Saul’s in Berkeley and The Refuge on the Peninsula — showed that there’s a real hunger for high-quality pastrami in the Bay.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the meantime, a bit of good news: Until Caris and Cann finalize their new plans for the space, the Solano Avenue spot will continue to sell fresh rye bread and pastrami by the pound, Friday through Sunday, 11 a.m.–3 p.m.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>New York has Katz’s. L.A. has Langer’s. The Bay Area, on the other hand, has never really had a true destination pastrami spot — at least not until \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13917120/delirama-pastrami-berkeley-opening-hella-hungry\">Delirama opened\u003c/a> its cheery Solano Avenue storefront in \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/berkeley\">Berkeley\u003c/a> two summers ago. Biting into the restaurant’s “OG” sandwich for the first time, I could imagine a future, 10 or 20 years from now, when Delirama would be exactly that: the kind of beloved neighborhood institution that out-of-towners would plan road trips around.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, that pastrami-scented fever dream has been put on hold, as the deli has closed, according to an announcement posted on \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/C2cvTALxHyy/\">Instagram\u003c/a> today.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Delirama was a labor of love for Cash Caris and Anahita Cann, who started the pop-up \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/pyrospastrami/?hl=en\">Pyro’s Pastrami\u003c/a> in 2020 as a vehicle for Caris’ lifelong love affair with the Jewish deli smoked meat staple. The couple opened their brick-and-mortar storefront in August of 2022, with an all-things-pastrami menu — pastrami pizza! pastrami tacos! pastrami-fat potato chips! — that drew lines around the block from day one.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13950839\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13950839\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/delirama-line.jpg\" alt=\"A long line of customers wait outside Delirama restaurant.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"2000\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/delirama-line.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/delirama-line-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/delirama-line-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/delirama-line-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/delirama-line-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/delirama-line-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/delirama-line-1920x1920.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">In its early days, Delirama often attracted long lines during the lunch rush. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>This was a rare instance where reality lived up to hype. A pastrami sandwich at Delirama became my go-to leisurely “island day” lunch, for those rare occasions when, say, my family was out of town and I had no responsibilities to attend to. I’d snag a seat at the window and luxuriate over one of Caris’ two-handed sandwiches: thick slices of butter-griddled rye bread, a swipe of mustard and a big pile of lusciously fatty, crisp-edged pastrami.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">\u003cb>\u003cstrong>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/strong>\u003c/b>\u003c/span>Keeping a small restaurant afloat is always a precarious enterprise, but Delirama was pushed to the brink by a particularly disastrous turn of events: Last March, a \u003ca href=\"https://abc7news.com/delirama-berkeley-bay-area-power-outages-gofundme-pg-e/13038723/\">four-day power outage\u003c/a> caused all of the food in their walk-in fridge to spoil, including 2,000 pounds of the brisket Caris brines and smokes to make the restaurant’s pastrami. At the time, Caris told the \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/restaurants/article/spoiled-pastrami-delirama-17858366.php\">\u003ci>Chronicle\u003c/i>\u003c/a> they’d been counting on that pastrami to generate $100,000 of revenue.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Delirama held on for another 10 months after that, diversifying its menu with additional non-pastrami items and, more recently, rolling out a budget version of its signature pastrami sandwich bulked up by a layer of those pastrami-fat chips. In the end, it wasn’t enough.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“The truth is that what I was trying to do was impossible and the longer I did it the more apparent it became,” Caris wrote in the Instagram post announcing the closure.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13921981\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13921981\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/delirama_og.jpg\" alt=\"A massive sandwich overflowing with pastrami and slaw.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/delirama_og.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/delirama_og-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/delirama_og-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/delirama_og-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/delirama_og-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/delirama_og-1536x1152.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Another view of the OG. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Which isn’t to say that his dream of a pastrami empire is necessarily over. The deli’s planned expansion into Oakland, \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/restaurants/article/delirama-oakland-18375892.php\">Delirama Jr.\u003c/a>, appears to still be on track for later this year. For now, Caris and Cann haven’t given up the Solano Avenue space either, but are instead planning to transition it into some\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/C2cvTALxHyy/c/17972485691662429/r/18018311552012808/\"> new, non-deli restaurant concept\u003c/a>. And who knows? In the past, Caris has said he \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13917120/delirama-pastrami-berkeley-opening-hella-hungry\">would love to bring Delirama to San Jose\u003c/a>, where he grew up.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What’s clear, however, is that Delirama was a successful proof of concept in at least one sense: Its popularity — along with the sizable local followings for established pastrami institutions like Saul’s in Berkeley and The Refuge on the Peninsula — showed that there’s a real hunger for high-quality pastrami in the Bay.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the meantime, a bit of good news: Until Caris and Cann finalize their new plans for the space, the Solano Avenue spot will continue to sell fresh rye bread and pastrami by the pound, Friday through Sunday, 11 a.m.–3 p.m.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003ci>¡Hella Hungry! is a series of interviews with Bay Area foodmakers exploring the region’s culinary innovations through the mouth of a first-generation local.\u003c/i>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you live in the Bay Area, you probably don’t think of crickets and mealworms as snacks. That’s because munching on insects isn’t particularly accessible or socially commonplace for most Californians.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But with her snack company, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/donbugito/?hl=en\">Don Bugito\u003c/a>, Monica Martinez is modernizing the Mesoamerican insect diet for today’s eaters — and it’s more delicious than you might imagine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As the founder of one of the region’s only edible insect companies, Martinez has steadily grown her vision to expand North America’s palate. After immigrating from Mexico City to attend design school on the East Coast, Martinez anchored herself along San Francisco’s shores over a decade ago, teaching courses on industrial design and insect-based alternative diets at the California College of Arts. She currently operates the only mealworm (i.e., dark beetle larva) farm in the Bay Area — in Oakland — where her small team cultivates insects to produce snacks like toasted mealworms, coconut brittle crickets with amaranth, chile-lime crickets with pumpkin seeds and chocolate-covered crickets.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13950661\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13950661\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/don-bugito_monica.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/don-bugito_monica.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/don-bugito_monica-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/don-bugito_monica-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/don-bugito_monica-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/don-bugito_monica-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/don-bugito_monica-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/don-bugito_monica-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Martinez has been an innovator in the edible insect movement for over a decade. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Martinez’s innovative approach has attracted attention from outlets like the \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2010/09/22/dining/22bug.html\">\u003ci>New York Times\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>, \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://video.vice.com/en_us/video/eating-insects-to-save-the-world/60dcaea6c0270c3fe86479b1\">\u003ci>VICE\u003c/i>\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://www.cnbc.com/2020/02/14/bug-protein-how-entrepreneurs-are-persuading-americans-to-eat-insects.html\">\u003ci>CNBC\u003c/i>\u003c/a>, but she says the Bay Area hasn’t fully caught on yet — ironically, most of her business comes from outside this region. But that lack of local awareness hasn’t prevented her from distributing her culinary passion from her chic food innovation space in San Mateo.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You may not be used to seeing your housemates munch on a chile-doused cricket yet. But that doesn’t mean it isn’t a viable option — one report predicts that \u003ca href=\"https://www.businessinsider.com/eating-insects-set-to-become-8-billion-business-barclays-2019-6#:~:text=Edible%20insects%20are%20set%20to,sustainable%20alternatives%20to%20traditional%20meat.\">the edible bug business could be worth $8 billion by 2030\u003c/a>. It isn’t about the profit for Martinez, though. She’s more concerned with providing an alternative to the planet’s current, unsustainable food sources. In Mexico, for example, chapulines (large grasshoppers) have long been a prevalent botana. The tradition just hasn’t migrated across the border in the same way that tamales, tostadas, tortas and other forms of Mexican cuisine have. Martinez wants to change that. And I’m all for it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With the New Year underway, I visited the madly creative, ever-hungry insect advocate at her production plant to learn more about the joys and challenges of convincing Bay Area eaters to snack on toasted crickets instead of Hot Cheetos. The former professor schooled me on all of that — and so much more.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>This interview has been edited for length and clarity.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp style=\"text-align: center\">********\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>ALAN CHAZARO: Where does the name Don Bugito come from? And how do you explain what you do as a foodmaker?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>MONICA MARTINEZ:\u003c/b> Don Bugito, as a name, is a play on words. It comes from “don.” In Mexico, that’s how you address an elder with respect. Bugito comes from bug and “ito,” which means small in Spanish. It’s like the big little guy — it’s little but is such a big, powerful food. We’re a business trying to bring diversity into our food systems. Reviving native American ingredients and celebrating the tradition of entomophagy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Sorry, ento-what?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Entomophagy. There’s a line of academia that studies the culture of eating insects. In Mexico, it’s very common. We want to revive that — pre-Columbian, pre-Hispanic cuisines that aren’t well known in the United States. [U.S. residents] are not aware of indigenous Mexican culinary traditions outside of tacos and tamales. There’s also venison, rabbit, fish, insects — all these proteins that were here before we had pork, cows, chicken. That includes North American Native people. We’re celebrating that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13950669\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13950669\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/don-bugito-snack.jpg\" alt=\"a foodmaker displays edible insects in her hands\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/don-bugito-snack.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/don-bugito-snack-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/don-bugito-snack-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/don-bugito-snack-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/don-bugito-snack-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/don-bugito-snack-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/don-bugito-snack-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Martinez shows a piece of coconut brittle baked with crickets. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>I don’t know any other edible insect food companies in the Bay Area. How did you start out? \u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We launched in 2011 at the SF Street Food Festival. I was a street food vendor making tacos and tostadas with chile-lime crickets, larvae tacos and mealworm vanilla ice cream.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Do you still serve insect-based dinners?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I sometimes host private dinners, but it’s a lot of work. That’s how I started out though. It was a great way to test if Americans were ready for insects, and we sold out. It made me realize Americans will eat insects (laughs). When I worked as a street vendor, I was one of the only ones selling organic [insect-based meals] at the time, competing with fried chicken. It wasn’t easy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>How did your upbringing influence your food making?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I moved from Mexico City to Boston for school, the first thing I felt was homesick for food. No avocados, no Mexican restaurants. There was just one outside of the city, and it was owned by Indians. It wasn’t even Mexican food. I remember the cafe on campus and had culture shock because the food was horrible. I asked the chef why it was so bad and where it came from. He pointed at the freezer. That made me realize like, wait a minute, there’s a disconnect where our food comes from in New England versus Mexico. My practice started to evolve from there.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13925233,arts_13903531,arts_13922141']\u003c/span>When I went back to Mexico to visit, I would go to markets and ask about everything. I’ve been going to farmers markets since growing up. There’s people giving you fresh crema and tostadas, smelling fresh cilantro, preparing fresh meat. That was growing up in Mexico City, an immense city with incredibly fresh, fast-moving food. There is so much demand that the freshness there can’t be replicated anywhere. So I was feeling miserable with the frozen foods in Boston. I was thinking about how food moves in a city. How many tons of product come in and get distributed to supply millions?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There’s a super large market in Mexico City called Central de Abasto. They have a school, a hospital; it’s like a city that’s probably bigger than San Francisco (laughs). That’s where I started to get an understanding. When I decided to do Don Bugito, I didn’t have a culinary background. I only had memories from childhood, and that was the flavors I grew up with in Mexico. I knew crunchy things: chile, lime, amaranth, nuts, chocolate, paletas, alegrias. That’s sold on every corner in the city. Don Bugito started with that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13950671\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13950671\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/don-bugito-tacos.jpg\" alt=\"a plate of two tacos topped with edible insects\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1331\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/don-bugito-tacos.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/don-bugito-tacos-800x532.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/don-bugito-tacos-1020x679.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/don-bugito-tacos-160x106.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/don-bugito-tacos-768x511.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/don-bugito-tacos-1536x1022.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/don-bugito-tacos-1920x1278.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Martinez started out by selling insect-topped tacos around San Francisco as a graduate of La Cocina. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of La Cocina)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>How has being in the Bay Area shaped Don Bugito, and how has your business model changed in the past 13 years?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We went from street vending to packaging online deliveries in an organic way. There was no Shopify when I started. But that’s huge now for businesses. We were one of the first to do that. Square, too. I remember talking to three engineers at Square when they first started out about getting into their system. They invited me and gave lessons on how to use their gadget to charge people, step by step. Being in the Bay Area helped with that. It was a smooth process and in our backyard. I see how big it’s all grown since then. Everything moves way faster now. There was Amazon, but you couldn’t sell edible insect snacks 13 years ago. It wasn’t that kind of platform. Now I can’t imagine my business without any of those.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I didn’t come here to run a food business. But here, I can celebrate local farming. Support local systems. Create jobs. It does suit me very well to be here. Now we have a farm in Oakland.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Tell me more about your insect farm.\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We have an urban farm in shipping containers. Our goal is not to replicate industrial farming practices. We use modular systems for small batches. No hormones or antibiotics. We allow the insects to follow their natural life cycles. We respect that. We tap into that to save resources. We call our farm a “holistic farm.” We are an organic farm, zero waste. Nothing gets thrown out. The poop is fertilizer. We are the only insect farm around here.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What are the challenges of running the only urban edible insect farm in the Bay Area, and how has it helped your business grow?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A challenge for us has always been sourcing insects. I worked with a couple insect farms in Texas at the beginning, but I was concerned with sustainability. They supplied crickets. I wanted non-GMO and organic insects, but it wasn’t offered back then. In 2017, I launched Mighty Bugito Farms — we just finally launched the domain and are developing the brand. We farm organic crickets and organic mealworms. Don Bugito will become a smaller brand within that. We also make fertilizer from insect poop. We’re also launching a pet food line.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13950670\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13950670\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/don-bugito_packages.jpg\" alt=\"Insect snacks in colorful packaging displayed on a table.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/don-bugito_packages.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/don-bugito_packages-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/don-bugito_packages-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/don-bugito_packages-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/don-bugito_packages-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/don-bugito_packages-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/don-bugito_packages-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Don Bugito distributes a range of insect-based snacks nationally. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>You have a background in visual art and also taught design at the California College of Arts for nearly a decade. How does that influence your culinary art?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Don Bugito came out as a project for alternative farming — for farms to cultivate their own insects for alternative kitchens. I presented that at a gallery in New York when I was an artist. Next door, there was a place called Brooklyn Kitchen. Now it’s super famous. They found out about the edible insects exhibit and hosted a dinner. The\u003ci> New York Times\u003c/i> found out, and we did an exclusive during the beginning of the edible insect movement in the U.S., around 2009, 2010. Andrew Zimmern from Food Network’s \u003ci>Bizarre Foods\u003c/i> read the story and asked me to cook lunch for him. We cooked for him in our apartment in San Francisco. I told him I wanted to launch a food truck. I felt like I had to deliver, since it was on national TV (laughs). I joined La Cocina and enrolled. They were like “What? Edible insects?” And that’s how we became a business.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[pullquote size=\"large\" align=\"right\" citation=\"Monica Martinez\"]‘We don’t preach about only eating insects. … But if you have one cricket salad a week, that makes an impact in the long run.’[/pullquote]But it hasn’t been easy. I never left art. My career is an artistic endeavor, not always about making money. I still feel like an artist. I have a good friend [who is] a designer, and I told her I don’t have studio practice, so I’m not an artist. And she told me my studio is my insect farm. Before Don Bugito, I wasn’t in an industrial kitchen, and so I burned my hand in a steamer. I was used to being in shops and galleries. So I switched my mindset and started to treat my business like an art design project. I’ve been teaching classes on food systems the whole time: the future of foods, biodesign, everything related to the environment, agriculture, food. Agriculture. It goes beyond having a snack package. How does it affect us? Our health? Our environment?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Why are insects the right solution for our future in food?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I don’t want the world to start eating only insects because that can be catastrophic. We don’t preach about only eating insects. We want a balanced diet and respect for the environment. You can eat meat — go for it. But if you have one cricket salad a week, that makes an impact in the long run.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Insects are the future of food because they’re sustainable. They use little energy to yield large amounts of protein. You can replace conventional protein with insects. Again, we don’t preach only that, but it’s possible. If the world collapses tomorrow, I have an insect farm that barely uses any resources to create protein. Insects don’t need water. Very little amounts. The amount of food they need is very little in comparison to a cow. They eat a diet of cereals and can even eat waste if needed. We have thousands of mealworms in a small amount of space. They’re easy to store.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13950672\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13950672\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/don-bugito-mealworms.jpg\" alt=\"A plastic bin full of thousands of frozen mealworms.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/don-bugito-mealworms.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/don-bugito-mealworms-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/don-bugito-mealworms-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/don-bugito-mealworms-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/don-bugito-mealworms-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/don-bugito-mealworms-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/don-bugito-mealworms-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A freshly frozen batch of mealworms arrive for preparation at Don Bugito’s San Mateo facility. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>When we were cooking at the SF Street Food Festival, we used to arrive with a few boxes, but my neighbors carried large containers of heavy meat. How far do you transport that? How much energy does that take? Insects can be cultivated anywhere, in small spaces, and moved easily. Genetically, they are far more removed from humans so there’s less risk of cross contamination. You’ve heard of avian flu, mad cow disease. That affects humans. There is less risk of that with bugs. That’s all very positive.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-12127869\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/donbugito/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Don Bugito\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is based in San Mateo and \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.donbugito.com/collections/all\">\u003ci>available online\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. Its products can also be purchased locally at Berkeley Bowl (Berkeley), Foodhall (SF), Casa Lucas (SF), the Ferry Building (SF), Mandela (Oakland) and Rancho Gordo (Napa).\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003ci>¡Hella Hungry! is a series of interviews with Bay Area foodmakers exploring the region’s culinary innovations through the mouth of a first-generation local.\u003c/i>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you live in the Bay Area, you probably don’t think of crickets and mealworms as snacks. That’s because munching on insects isn’t particularly accessible or socially commonplace for most Californians.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But with her snack company, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/donbugito/?hl=en\">Don Bugito\u003c/a>, Monica Martinez is modernizing the Mesoamerican insect diet for today’s eaters — and it’s more delicious than you might imagine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As the founder of one of the region’s only edible insect companies, Martinez has steadily grown her vision to expand North America’s palate. After immigrating from Mexico City to attend design school on the East Coast, Martinez anchored herself along San Francisco’s shores over a decade ago, teaching courses on industrial design and insect-based alternative diets at the California College of Arts. She currently operates the only mealworm (i.e., dark beetle larva) farm in the Bay Area — in Oakland — where her small team cultivates insects to produce snacks like toasted mealworms, coconut brittle crickets with amaranth, chile-lime crickets with pumpkin seeds and chocolate-covered crickets.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13950661\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13950661\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/don-bugito_monica.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/don-bugito_monica.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/don-bugito_monica-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/don-bugito_monica-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/don-bugito_monica-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/don-bugito_monica-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/don-bugito_monica-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/don-bugito_monica-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Martinez has been an innovator in the edible insect movement for over a decade. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Martinez’s innovative approach has attracted attention from outlets like the \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2010/09/22/dining/22bug.html\">\u003ci>New York Times\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>, \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://video.vice.com/en_us/video/eating-insects-to-save-the-world/60dcaea6c0270c3fe86479b1\">\u003ci>VICE\u003c/i>\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://www.cnbc.com/2020/02/14/bug-protein-how-entrepreneurs-are-persuading-americans-to-eat-insects.html\">\u003ci>CNBC\u003c/i>\u003c/a>, but she says the Bay Area hasn’t fully caught on yet — ironically, most of her business comes from outside this region. But that lack of local awareness hasn’t prevented her from distributing her culinary passion from her chic food innovation space in San Mateo.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You may not be used to seeing your housemates munch on a chile-doused cricket yet. But that doesn’t mean it isn’t a viable option — one report predicts that \u003ca href=\"https://www.businessinsider.com/eating-insects-set-to-become-8-billion-business-barclays-2019-6#:~:text=Edible%20insects%20are%20set%20to,sustainable%20alternatives%20to%20traditional%20meat.\">the edible bug business could be worth $8 billion by 2030\u003c/a>. It isn’t about the profit for Martinez, though. She’s more concerned with providing an alternative to the planet’s current, unsustainable food sources. In Mexico, for example, chapulines (large grasshoppers) have long been a prevalent botana. The tradition just hasn’t migrated across the border in the same way that tamales, tostadas, tortas and other forms of Mexican cuisine have. Martinez wants to change that. And I’m all for it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With the New Year underway, I visited the madly creative, ever-hungry insect advocate at her production plant to learn more about the joys and challenges of convincing Bay Area eaters to snack on toasted crickets instead of Hot Cheetos. The former professor schooled me on all of that — and so much more.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>This interview has been edited for length and clarity.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp style=\"text-align: center\">********\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>ALAN CHAZARO: Where does the name Don Bugito come from? And how do you explain what you do as a foodmaker?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>MONICA MARTINEZ:\u003c/b> Don Bugito, as a name, is a play on words. It comes from “don.” In Mexico, that’s how you address an elder with respect. Bugito comes from bug and “ito,” which means small in Spanish. It’s like the big little guy — it’s little but is such a big, powerful food. We’re a business trying to bring diversity into our food systems. Reviving native American ingredients and celebrating the tradition of entomophagy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Sorry, ento-what?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Entomophagy. There’s a line of academia that studies the culture of eating insects. In Mexico, it’s very common. We want to revive that — pre-Columbian, pre-Hispanic cuisines that aren’t well known in the United States. [U.S. residents] are not aware of indigenous Mexican culinary traditions outside of tacos and tamales. There’s also venison, rabbit, fish, insects — all these proteins that were here before we had pork, cows, chicken. That includes North American Native people. We’re celebrating that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13950669\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13950669\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/don-bugito-snack.jpg\" alt=\"a foodmaker displays edible insects in her hands\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/don-bugito-snack.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/don-bugito-snack-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/don-bugito-snack-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/don-bugito-snack-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/don-bugito-snack-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/don-bugito-snack-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/don-bugito-snack-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Martinez shows a piece of coconut brittle baked with crickets. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>I don’t know any other edible insect food companies in the Bay Area. How did you start out? \u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We launched in 2011 at the SF Street Food Festival. I was a street food vendor making tacos and tostadas with chile-lime crickets, larvae tacos and mealworm vanilla ice cream.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Do you still serve insect-based dinners?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I sometimes host private dinners, but it’s a lot of work. That’s how I started out though. It was a great way to test if Americans were ready for insects, and we sold out. It made me realize Americans will eat insects (laughs). When I worked as a street vendor, I was one of the only ones selling organic [insect-based meals] at the time, competing with fried chicken. It wasn’t easy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>How did your upbringing influence your food making?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I moved from Mexico City to Boston for school, the first thing I felt was homesick for food. No avocados, no Mexican restaurants. There was just one outside of the city, and it was owned by Indians. It wasn’t even Mexican food. I remember the cafe on campus and had culture shock because the food was horrible. I asked the chef why it was so bad and where it came from. He pointed at the freezer. That made me realize like, wait a minute, there’s a disconnect where our food comes from in New England versus Mexico. My practice started to evolve from there.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>When I went back to Mexico to visit, I would go to markets and ask about everything. I’ve been going to farmers markets since growing up. There’s people giving you fresh crema and tostadas, smelling fresh cilantro, preparing fresh meat. That was growing up in Mexico City, an immense city with incredibly fresh, fast-moving food. There is so much demand that the freshness there can’t be replicated anywhere. So I was feeling miserable with the frozen foods in Boston. I was thinking about how food moves in a city. How many tons of product come in and get distributed to supply millions?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There’s a super large market in Mexico City called Central de Abasto. They have a school, a hospital; it’s like a city that’s probably bigger than San Francisco (laughs). That’s where I started to get an understanding. When I decided to do Don Bugito, I didn’t have a culinary background. I only had memories from childhood, and that was the flavors I grew up with in Mexico. I knew crunchy things: chile, lime, amaranth, nuts, chocolate, paletas, alegrias. That’s sold on every corner in the city. Don Bugito started with that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13950671\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13950671\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/don-bugito-tacos.jpg\" alt=\"a plate of two tacos topped with edible insects\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1331\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/don-bugito-tacos.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/don-bugito-tacos-800x532.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/don-bugito-tacos-1020x679.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/don-bugito-tacos-160x106.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/don-bugito-tacos-768x511.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/don-bugito-tacos-1536x1022.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/don-bugito-tacos-1920x1278.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Martinez started out by selling insect-topped tacos around San Francisco as a graduate of La Cocina. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of La Cocina)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>How has being in the Bay Area shaped Don Bugito, and how has your business model changed in the past 13 years?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We went from street vending to packaging online deliveries in an organic way. There was no Shopify when I started. But that’s huge now for businesses. We were one of the first to do that. Square, too. I remember talking to three engineers at Square when they first started out about getting into their system. They invited me and gave lessons on how to use their gadget to charge people, step by step. Being in the Bay Area helped with that. It was a smooth process and in our backyard. I see how big it’s all grown since then. Everything moves way faster now. There was Amazon, but you couldn’t sell edible insect snacks 13 years ago. It wasn’t that kind of platform. Now I can’t imagine my business without any of those.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I didn’t come here to run a food business. But here, I can celebrate local farming. Support local systems. Create jobs. It does suit me very well to be here. Now we have a farm in Oakland.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Tell me more about your insect farm.\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We have an urban farm in shipping containers. Our goal is not to replicate industrial farming practices. We use modular systems for small batches. No hormones or antibiotics. We allow the insects to follow their natural life cycles. We respect that. We tap into that to save resources. We call our farm a “holistic farm.” We are an organic farm, zero waste. Nothing gets thrown out. The poop is fertilizer. We are the only insect farm around here.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What are the challenges of running the only urban edible insect farm in the Bay Area, and how has it helped your business grow?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A challenge for us has always been sourcing insects. I worked with a couple insect farms in Texas at the beginning, but I was concerned with sustainability. They supplied crickets. I wanted non-GMO and organic insects, but it wasn’t offered back then. In 2017, I launched Mighty Bugito Farms — we just finally launched the domain and are developing the brand. We farm organic crickets and organic mealworms. Don Bugito will become a smaller brand within that. We also make fertilizer from insect poop. We’re also launching a pet food line.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13950670\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13950670\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/don-bugito_packages.jpg\" alt=\"Insect snacks in colorful packaging displayed on a table.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/don-bugito_packages.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/don-bugito_packages-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/don-bugito_packages-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/don-bugito_packages-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/don-bugito_packages-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/don-bugito_packages-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/don-bugito_packages-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Don Bugito distributes a range of insect-based snacks nationally. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>You have a background in visual art and also taught design at the California College of Arts for nearly a decade. How does that influence your culinary art?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Don Bugito came out as a project for alternative farming — for farms to cultivate their own insects for alternative kitchens. I presented that at a gallery in New York when I was an artist. Next door, there was a place called Brooklyn Kitchen. Now it’s super famous. They found out about the edible insects exhibit and hosted a dinner. The\u003ci> New York Times\u003c/i> found out, and we did an exclusive during the beginning of the edible insect movement in the U.S., around 2009, 2010. Andrew Zimmern from Food Network’s \u003ci>Bizarre Foods\u003c/i> read the story and asked me to cook lunch for him. We cooked for him in our apartment in San Francisco. I told him I wanted to launch a food truck. I felt like I had to deliver, since it was on national TV (laughs). I joined La Cocina and enrolled. They were like “What? Edible insects?” And that’s how we became a business.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "‘We don’t preach about only eating insects. … But if you have one cricket salad a week, that makes an impact in the long run.’",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>But it hasn’t been easy. I never left art. My career is an artistic endeavor, not always about making money. I still feel like an artist. I have a good friend [who is] a designer, and I told her I don’t have studio practice, so I’m not an artist. And she told me my studio is my insect farm. Before Don Bugito, I wasn’t in an industrial kitchen, and so I burned my hand in a steamer. I was used to being in shops and galleries. So I switched my mindset and started to treat my business like an art design project. I’ve been teaching classes on food systems the whole time: the future of foods, biodesign, everything related to the environment, agriculture, food. Agriculture. It goes beyond having a snack package. How does it affect us? Our health? Our environment?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Why are insects the right solution for our future in food?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I don’t want the world to start eating only insects because that can be catastrophic. We don’t preach about only eating insects. We want a balanced diet and respect for the environment. You can eat meat — go for it. But if you have one cricket salad a week, that makes an impact in the long run.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Insects are the future of food because they’re sustainable. They use little energy to yield large amounts of protein. You can replace conventional protein with insects. Again, we don’t preach only that, but it’s possible. If the world collapses tomorrow, I have an insect farm that barely uses any resources to create protein. Insects don’t need water. Very little amounts. The amount of food they need is very little in comparison to a cow. They eat a diet of cereals and can even eat waste if needed. We have thousands of mealworms in a small amount of space. They’re easy to store.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13950672\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13950672\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/don-bugito-mealworms.jpg\" alt=\"A plastic bin full of thousands of frozen mealworms.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/don-bugito-mealworms.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/don-bugito-mealworms-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/don-bugito-mealworms-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/don-bugito-mealworms-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/don-bugito-mealworms-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/don-bugito-mealworms-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/don-bugito-mealworms-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A freshly frozen batch of mealworms arrive for preparation at Don Bugito’s San Mateo facility. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>When we were cooking at the SF Street Food Festival, we used to arrive with a few boxes, but my neighbors carried large containers of heavy meat. How far do you transport that? How much energy does that take? Insects can be cultivated anywhere, in small spaces, and moved easily. Genetically, they are far more removed from humans so there’s less risk of cross contamination. You’ve heard of avian flu, mad cow disease. That affects humans. There is less risk of that with bugs. That’s all very positive.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-12127869\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/donbugito/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Don Bugito\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is based in San Mateo and \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.donbugito.com/collections/all\">\u003ci>available online\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. Its products can also be purchased locally at Berkeley Bowl (Berkeley), Foodhall (SF), Casa Lucas (SF), the Ferry Building (SF), Mandela (Oakland) and Rancho Gordo (Napa).\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "A Richmond Gas Station Slings Some of the Tastiest Yemeni Food in the Bay",
"headTitle": "A Richmond Gas Station Slings Some of the Tastiest Yemeni Food in the Bay | KQED",
"content": "\u003cp>The Kwik Serv on Carlson Boulevard in \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/richmond\">Richmond\u003c/a> isn’t likely to make any local guidebooks, unless they’re curating for niche interests like “Inexpensive Gas Just off the Freeway” or “Bitcoin ATM Access.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lately, however, the gas station convenience store has drawn visitors for something a bit more unexpected: \u003ca href=\"https://www.tiktok.com/@halalkingkitchen\">Halal King Kitchen\u003c/a>, a takeout window that serves some of the Bay Area’s tastiest Yemeni food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One could make the case that this scrappy intersection marks the apex of fine gas station and liquor store cuisine. Just across the street, amid shelves lined with Hot Cheetos and six-packs of Modelo Especial, the Carlson Food Market houses a combination taqueria and Krispy Krunchy Chicken (i.e., the people’s choice for gas station fried chicken). Then, last spring, Halal King opened inside the Kwik Serv and began hawking even rarer delicacies — saucy, aromatic stews infused with fenugreek; a full Yemeni breakfast menu; and the crowd favorite, chicken mendi, one of the most sublime versions of takeout chicken and rice I’ve had in the Bay.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13950583\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13950583\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/halal-king-facade.jpg\" alt='The facade of a gas station convenience store, with a big sign for \"Halal King Kitchen.\"' width=\"2000\" height=\"1500\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/halal-king-facade.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/halal-king-facade-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/halal-king-facade-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/halal-king-facade-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/halal-king-facade-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/halal-king-facade-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/halal-king-facade-1920x1440.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Halal King has been inspiring gas station customers to do a double-take since it opened in the spring of 2023. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The restaurant is a joint effort between owner Ali Mused and his uncle, Hamdan Mousa, who is the head chef. After immigrating from Yemen to Oakland eight years ago, Mousa cut his teeth cooking at Yemen Kitchen, a staple in San Francisco’s Tenderloin District. Last year, Mousa’s friend, the owner of the Kwik Serv, asked if he’d like to take over the convenience store kitchen. Mused came on to run the business side of things, and before long, the big “Halal King” sign on the store’s facade — and the tantalizing smell of cumin and roast chicken — started causing gas station customers to do a double-take as they pulled up to the pumps.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yemeni food shares a number of dishes in common with other Arabic cuisines, and some of our region’s best-loved \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/p/Salam-Halal-Market-Restaurant-100051575176191/\">halal markets\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://eastbayexpress.com/oasis-grill-open-on-grand-avenue-2-1/\">shawarma-and-kebab shops\u003c/a> have Yemeni roots, even if they don’t advertise themselves as such. What sets Halal King apart from the crowd is its focus on the cuisine’s homier, more distinct dishes. As Mused puts it, “Every Yemeni dish is home food. You’ll never leave the restaurant without feeling full.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">\u003cb>\u003cstrong>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13931303,arts_13931115,arts_13928345']\u003c/span>\u003c/strong>\u003c/b>\u003c/span>Part of what that entails is a kind of generosity and hospitality not typically associated with gas station food — for instance, the cup of hot, sweet Yemeni tea that Mousa hands you after taking your order. By far the most popular dish among Halal King’s Yemeni customers is the chicken mendi (often spelled “mandi”), which comes with a half roast chicken, dusted with cumin, that has taut, crispy skin and meat so tender and succulent that it falls apart at the slightest touch. This is served over a bed of seasoned rice, with a tub of the zippy, tomato and cilantro–based Yemeni hot sauce known as zahawiq on the side — “basically salsa with no onions,” Mused explains.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It \u003ci>is\u003c/i> a lot of food, but it’s also supremely difficult to stop yourself from devouring the whole thing in one sitting. By the time I was done, there was nothing left but a neat pile of bones, completely picked clean.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mousa also makes a fantastic version of salta (aka “saltah”), the fenugreek stew often described as Yemen’s national dish. It’s a cozy, soupy stew, loaded with shredded chicken and faintly medicinal in its herbaceousness — the perfect thing to sop up with rounds of pita on a blustery winter night.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13950579\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13950579\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/halal-king-breakfast.jpg\" alt=\"Two round plastic takeout containers on a picnic table. To the left is foul, a soupy, orange-hued bean stew. To the right is the shakshouka eggs, a kind of chunky vegetable scramble.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1500\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/halal-king-breakfast.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/halal-king-breakfast-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/halal-king-breakfast-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/halal-king-breakfast-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/halal-king-breakfast-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/halal-king-breakfast-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/halal-king-breakfast-1920x1440.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Two of Halal King’s traditional Yemeni breakfast dishes — foul and shakshouka eggs — on the picnic table outside the restaurant. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>This is almost certainly also the only gas station in the Bay that serves a full Yemeni breakfast menu — and, with traditional offerings like sautéed liver, one that doesn’t make any concessions to the Western palate. On a recent morning, I enjoyed Mousa’s pleasantly spicy Yemeni version of foul — the classic Arabic bean stew — and an order of shakshouka eggs, which turned out not to be the tomato sauce–poached eggs I expected. Instead, it was a kind of chunky scramble, studded with onions, tomatoes and peppers. All together, it made for one of the most satisfying breakfasts I’d eaten in months — all the heartier because it came with an entire bag of pita.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mused estimates that Halal King’s customer base is about “50% Yemeni and 50% American,” with many of the Yemeni customers traveling a long distance for his uncle’s food, having followed him from his Yemen Kitchen days. In that way, this Richmond gas station has become a destination restaurant for chicken mendi and salta devotees.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For locals who just stumble on this food because they happen to be low on gas at the right time and place? It’s the very best kind of surprise.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13950582\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13950582\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/halal-king-gas-station-scaled.jpg\" alt='Sign advertising the \"Kwik Serv\" gas station, with sign for \"Halal King Kitchen\" underneath. In the background, the sign for Carlson Food Market advertises Krispy Krunchy Chicken.' width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/halal-king-gas-station-scaled.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/halal-king-gas-station-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/halal-king-gas-station-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/halal-king-gas-station-160x213.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/halal-king-gas-station-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/halal-king-gas-station-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/halal-king-gas-station-1536x2048.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The apex of fine gas station cuisine. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-12127869\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.tiktok.com/@halalkingkitchen\">\u003ci>Halal King Kitchen\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is open at the Kwik Serv gas station convenience store (1503 Carlson Blvd., Richmond) Tuesday through Sunday, 10 a.m.–10 p.m.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>The Kwik Serv on Carlson Boulevard in \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/richmond\">Richmond\u003c/a> isn’t likely to make any local guidebooks, unless they’re curating for niche interests like “Inexpensive Gas Just off the Freeway” or “Bitcoin ATM Access.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lately, however, the gas station convenience store has drawn visitors for something a bit more unexpected: \u003ca href=\"https://www.tiktok.com/@halalkingkitchen\">Halal King Kitchen\u003c/a>, a takeout window that serves some of the Bay Area’s tastiest Yemeni food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One could make the case that this scrappy intersection marks the apex of fine gas station and liquor store cuisine. Just across the street, amid shelves lined with Hot Cheetos and six-packs of Modelo Especial, the Carlson Food Market houses a combination taqueria and Krispy Krunchy Chicken (i.e., the people’s choice for gas station fried chicken). Then, last spring, Halal King opened inside the Kwik Serv and began hawking even rarer delicacies — saucy, aromatic stews infused with fenugreek; a full Yemeni breakfast menu; and the crowd favorite, chicken mendi, one of the most sublime versions of takeout chicken and rice I’ve had in the Bay.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13950583\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13950583\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/halal-king-facade.jpg\" alt='The facade of a gas station convenience store, with a big sign for \"Halal King Kitchen.\"' width=\"2000\" height=\"1500\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/halal-king-facade.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/halal-king-facade-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/halal-king-facade-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/halal-king-facade-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/halal-king-facade-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/halal-king-facade-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/halal-king-facade-1920x1440.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Halal King has been inspiring gas station customers to do a double-take since it opened in the spring of 2023. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The restaurant is a joint effort between owner Ali Mused and his uncle, Hamdan Mousa, who is the head chef. After immigrating from Yemen to Oakland eight years ago, Mousa cut his teeth cooking at Yemen Kitchen, a staple in San Francisco’s Tenderloin District. Last year, Mousa’s friend, the owner of the Kwik Serv, asked if he’d like to take over the convenience store kitchen. Mused came on to run the business side of things, and before long, the big “Halal King” sign on the store’s facade — and the tantalizing smell of cumin and roast chicken — started causing gas station customers to do a double-take as they pulled up to the pumps.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yemeni food shares a number of dishes in common with other Arabic cuisines, and some of our region’s best-loved \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/p/Salam-Halal-Market-Restaurant-100051575176191/\">halal markets\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://eastbayexpress.com/oasis-grill-open-on-grand-avenue-2-1/\">shawarma-and-kebab shops\u003c/a> have Yemeni roots, even if they don’t advertise themselves as such. What sets Halal King apart from the crowd is its focus on the cuisine’s homier, more distinct dishes. As Mused puts it, “Every Yemeni dish is home food. You’ll never leave the restaurant without feeling full.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/strong>\u003c/b>\u003c/span>Part of what that entails is a kind of generosity and hospitality not typically associated with gas station food — for instance, the cup of hot, sweet Yemeni tea that Mousa hands you after taking your order. By far the most popular dish among Halal King’s Yemeni customers is the chicken mendi (often spelled “mandi”), which comes with a half roast chicken, dusted with cumin, that has taut, crispy skin and meat so tender and succulent that it falls apart at the slightest touch. This is served over a bed of seasoned rice, with a tub of the zippy, tomato and cilantro–based Yemeni hot sauce known as zahawiq on the side — “basically salsa with no onions,” Mused explains.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It \u003ci>is\u003c/i> a lot of food, but it’s also supremely difficult to stop yourself from devouring the whole thing in one sitting. By the time I was done, there was nothing left but a neat pile of bones, completely picked clean.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mousa also makes a fantastic version of salta (aka “saltah”), the fenugreek stew often described as Yemen’s national dish. It’s a cozy, soupy stew, loaded with shredded chicken and faintly medicinal in its herbaceousness — the perfect thing to sop up with rounds of pita on a blustery winter night.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13950579\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13950579\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/halal-king-breakfast.jpg\" alt=\"Two round plastic takeout containers on a picnic table. To the left is foul, a soupy, orange-hued bean stew. To the right is the shakshouka eggs, a kind of chunky vegetable scramble.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1500\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/halal-king-breakfast.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/halal-king-breakfast-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/halal-king-breakfast-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/halal-king-breakfast-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/halal-king-breakfast-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/halal-king-breakfast-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/halal-king-breakfast-1920x1440.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Two of Halal King’s traditional Yemeni breakfast dishes — foul and shakshouka eggs — on the picnic table outside the restaurant. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>This is almost certainly also the only gas station in the Bay that serves a full Yemeni breakfast menu — and, with traditional offerings like sautéed liver, one that doesn’t make any concessions to the Western palate. On a recent morning, I enjoyed Mousa’s pleasantly spicy Yemeni version of foul — the classic Arabic bean stew — and an order of shakshouka eggs, which turned out not to be the tomato sauce–poached eggs I expected. Instead, it was a kind of chunky scramble, studded with onions, tomatoes and peppers. All together, it made for one of the most satisfying breakfasts I’d eaten in months — all the heartier because it came with an entire bag of pita.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mused estimates that Halal King’s customer base is about “50% Yemeni and 50% American,” with many of the Yemeni customers traveling a long distance for his uncle’s food, having followed him from his Yemen Kitchen days. In that way, this Richmond gas station has become a destination restaurant for chicken mendi and salta devotees.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For locals who just stumble on this food because they happen to be low on gas at the right time and place? It’s the very best kind of surprise.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13950582\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13950582\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/halal-king-gas-station-scaled.jpg\" alt='Sign advertising the \"Kwik Serv\" gas station, with sign for \"Halal King Kitchen\" underneath. In the background, the sign for Carlson Food Market advertises Krispy Krunchy Chicken.' width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/halal-king-gas-station-scaled.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/halal-king-gas-station-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/halal-king-gas-station-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/halal-king-gas-station-160x213.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/halal-king-gas-station-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/halal-king-gas-station-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/01/halal-king-gas-station-1536x2048.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The apex of fine gas station cuisine. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-12127869\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.tiktok.com/@halalkingkitchen\">\u003ci>Halal King Kitchen\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is open at the Kwik Serv gas station convenience store (1503 Carlson Blvd., Richmond) Tuesday through Sunday, 10 a.m.–10 p.m.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"tagline": "The flip side of gentrification, told through one town",
"info": "Gentrification is changing cities across America, forcing people from neighborhoods they have long called home. Call them the displaced. Now those priced out of the Bay Area are looking for a better life in an unlikely place. American Suburb follows this migration to one California town along the Delta, 45 miles from San Francisco. But is this once sleepy suburb ready for them?",
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},
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"id": "baycurious",
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"tagline": "Exploring the Bay Area, one question at a time",
"info": "KQED’s new podcast, Bay Curious, gets to the bottom of the mysteries — both profound and peculiar — that give the Bay Area its unique identity. And we’ll do it with your help! You ask the questions. You decide what Bay Curious investigates. And you join us on the journey to find the answers.",
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},
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"info": "KQED’s statewide radio news program providing daily coverage of issues, trends and public policy decisions.",
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"order": 8
},
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"info": "Every week, The California Report Magazine takes you on a road trip for the ears: to visit the places and meet the people who make California unique. The in-depth storytelling podcast from the California Report.",
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"source": "City Arts & Lectures"
},
"link": "https://www.cityarts.net",
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"order": 1
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"info": "\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em>, which listeners will hear in the first part of the hour, has fearless and much-needed conversations about race. Hosted by journalists of color, the show tackles the subject of race head-on, exploring how it impacts every part of society — from politics and pop culture to history, sports and more.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em>, which will be in the second part of the hour, guides you through spaces and feelings no one prepares you for — from finances to mental health, from workplace microaggressions to imposter syndrome, from relationships to parenting. The show features experts with real world experience and shares their knowledge. Because everyone needs a little help being human.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/510312/codeswitch\">\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/lifekit\">\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />",
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"id": "commonwealth-club",
"title": "Commonwealth Club of California Podcast",
"info": "The Commonwealth Club of California is the nation's oldest and largest public affairs forum. As a non-partisan forum, The Club brings to the public airwaves diverse viewpoints on important topics. The Club's weekly radio broadcast - the oldest in the U.S., dating back to 1924 - is carried across the nation on public radio stations and is now podcasting. Our website archive features audio of our recent programs, as well as selected speeches from our long and distinguished history. This podcast feed is usually updated twice a week and is always un-edited.",
"airtime": "THU 10pm, FRI 1am",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Commonwealth-Club-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
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"source": "Commonwealth Club of California"
},
"link": "/radio/program/commonwealth-club",
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"tagline": "The conversation starts here",
"info": "KQED’s live call-in program discussing local, state, national and international issues, as well as in-depth interviews.",
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"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Forum-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
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"source": "kqed",
"order": 9
},
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"source": "WNYC"
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"link": "/radio/program/freakonomics-radio",
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"info": "A live production of NPR and WBUR Boston, in collaboration with stations across the country, Here & Now reflects the fluid world of news as it's happening in the middle of the day, with timely, in-depth news, interviews and conversation. Hosted by Robin Young, Jeremy Hobson and Tonya Mosley.",
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"hidden-brain": {
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"info": "Shankar Vedantam uses science and storytelling to reveal the unconscious patterns that drive human behavior, shape our choices and direct our relationships.",
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"airtime": "SUN 7pm-8pm",
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"source": "NPR"
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"how-i-built-this": {
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"info": "Guy Raz dives into the stories behind some of the world's best known companies. How I Built This weaves a narrative journey about innovators, entrepreneurs and idealists—and the movements they built.",
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"airtime": "SUN 7:30pm-8pm",
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"hyphenacion": {
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"tagline": "Where conversation and cultura meet",
"info": "What kind of no sabo word is Hyphenación? For us, it’s about living within a hyphenation. Like being a third-gen Mexican-American from the Texas border now living that Bay Area Chicano life. Like Xorje! Each week we bring together a couple of hyphenated Latinos to talk all about personal life choices: family, careers, relationships, belonging … everything is on the table. ",
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"jerrybrown": {
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"title": "The Political Mind of Jerry Brown",
"tagline": "Lessons from a lifetime in politics",
"info": "The Political Mind of Jerry Brown brings listeners the wisdom of the former Governor, Mayor, and presidential candidate. Scott Shafer interviewed Brown for more than 40 hours, covering the former governor's life and half-century in the political game – and Brown has some lessons he'd like to share. ",
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"order": 18
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},
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"id": "latino-usa",
"title": "Latino USA",
"airtime": "MON 1am-2am, SUN 6pm-7pm",
"info": "Latino USA, the radio journal of news and culture, is the only national, English-language radio program produced from a Latino perspective.",
"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/latinoUsa.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "http://latinousa.org/",
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"source": "npr"
},
"link": "/radio/program/latino-usa",
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=79681317&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory",
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"rss": "https://feeds.npr.org/510016/podcast.xml"
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},
"marketplace": {
"id": "marketplace",
"title": "Marketplace",
"info": "Our flagship program, helmed by Kai Ryssdal, examines what the day in money delivered, through stories, conversations, newsworthy numbers and more. Updated Monday through Friday at about 3:30 p.m. PT.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 4pm-4:30pm, MON-WED 6:30pm-7pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Marketplace-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.marketplace.org/",
"meta": {
"site": "news",
"source": "American Public Media"
},
"link": "/radio/program/marketplace",
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"rss": "https://feeds.publicradio.org/public_feeds/marketplace-pm/rss/rss"
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},
"masters-of-scale": {
"id": "masters-of-scale",
"title": "Masters of Scale",
"info": "Masters of Scale is an original podcast in which LinkedIn co-founder and Greylock Partner Reid Hoffman sets out to describe and prove theories that explain how great entrepreneurs take their companies from zero to a gazillion in ingenious fashion.",
"airtime": "Every other Wednesday June 12 through October 16 at 8pm (repeats Thursdays at 2am)",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "https://mastersofscale.com/",
"meta": {
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"source": "WaitWhat"
},
"link": "/radio/program/masters-of-scale",
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"rss": "https://rss.art19.com/masters-of-scale"
}
},
"mindshift": {
"id": "mindshift",
"title": "MindShift",
"tagline": "A podcast about the future of learning and how we raise our kids",
"info": "The MindShift podcast explores the innovations in education that are shaping how kids learn. Hosts Ki Sung and Katrina Schwartz introduce listeners to educators, researchers, parents and students who are developing effective ways to improve how kids learn. We cover topics like how fed-up administrators are developing surprising tactics to deal with classroom disruptions; how listening to podcasts are helping kids develop reading skills; the consequences of overparenting; and why interdisciplinary learning can engage students on all ends of the traditional achievement spectrum. This podcast is part of the MindShift education site, a division of KQED News. KQED is an NPR/PBS member station based in San Francisco. You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Mindshift-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
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