One weekend some friends in the wine industry and I took an excursion to the Hog Island Oyster Co. on Tomales Bay. Drawn by the allure of the excellent oysters farmed there, we escaped the heat of wine country and headed for the coast. We brought with us our appetites, our shucking knives, and, safely ensconced in a cooler, a quintet of wines. We'd chosen the wines after a number of discussions about the best accompaniment for oysters, and so on a bright morning we set out to resolve the debate.
Because we all agreed that Champagne was too much of an obvious choice to pair with oysters, we decided to set it aside in favor of varieties further from the beaten path. We finally settled on five whites that are all traditional matches for shellfish. We tasted each wine with several of different types of oysters prepared in ways from raw to grilled, and here is what we found:
2002 Txomin Etxaniz Txakoli
From the Basque region of Spain, this wine is made from Hondarrabi Zuri and Hondarrabi Beltza grapes in a fashion similar to Vinho Verde. Young and slightly frizzante—though this blew off rather quickly—the wine featured bright acid and citrus flavors, finishing with a slight mineral note. With the oysters, we found it good but not noteworthy. The wine was not overwhelmed by the saltiness of the shellfish, nor did it dominate. Perhaps that was the most noticeable feature of the Txakoli: it wasn't very noticeable.
2002 Encostas de Lima Vinho Verde
The bottle we opened was off-dry and without the characteristic spritz which usually is found in these Portuguese wines. Though I'm not usually a fan of slightly sweet wines, I found myself pleasantly surprised by this Vinho Verde. Offering lively floral and tropical notes in the nose reminiscent of a Riesling or Gewürztraminer, it continued to impress on the palate where the acid and residual sugar were in good balance. Quite good with raw oysters, the Vinho Verde's full body and rich mid-palate stood up well to more elaborate preparations including fiery cocktail sauce. There was also an abundance of sweet fruit which was a delightful foil to barbecued oysters.
2001 Franck Millet Sancerre Blanc
At first, this Sauvignon Blanc appeared to be mildly corked, but the faint mustiness seemed to blow off after a short time in glass. The nose was rather muted, perhaps subdued by the cork taint. Once on the palate, though, this bottle revealed itself to be a wonderful example of what can be achieved in the Loire. Rich grapefruit and tart lemon were laid over a solid framework of acid, and the pierre-à-fusil finish was refreshing and complex. The stout acid of the wine found a happy balance in each of the varieties of oysters we sampled, from the sweeter to the most salty, and the mineral finish seemed to enhance and prolong the persistence of the rich oyster flavor.
2001 Pazo De Senorans Albarino
Our selection from Rias Baixas clamored for attention on first sniff, offering hints of butter cream, as well as a pleasant mild oxidative note and tart apple aromas. These features all came through in the mouth, where the wine revealed itself to be as rich and full-bodied as its nose promised. Beyond the Granny Smith flavors were nuances of golden pear and a touch of earthiness, and a lilting floral note rewarded patient nosers. The Albarino proved strong enough to accompany the heat and spice of our barbecued oysters, and was a standout when paired with grilled oysters in mignonette. Easily the most versatile of the bottles we tried, it was enjoyable equally on its own and with food.
2000 Chateau Moriniere Muscadet Sur Lie
Coming on the heels of the standout Albarino, our Muscadet seemed a bit subdued, though it was quite enjoyable. Perhaps a little longer in the tooth than would be optimal for this variety (there was no light carbonic spritz), it nonetheless delighted us with delicate floral aromas, and citrus and melon flavors woven together with a creamy, mildly leesy mid-palate. Possibly overwhelmed by the briny scent of the ocean and the smoke from our grill, we found this bottle to be somewhat of an underachiever, until we returned to it at the end of the afternoon. While I wouldn't have guessed that this wine would have needed breathing time, in the space of a few hours it opened up to display an amazing array of diesel and floral aromas reminiscent of a fine Riesling, and the flavors of melon were joined by those of white and stone fruit. Perhaps not best suited for the rough-and-tumble world of the outdoor barbecue, I would certainly welcome it at my table as an accompaniment for any sort of shellfish.
When the late afternoon fog began to roll in across Tomales Bay, we finished our last oysters and climbed back into the car. On the ride home we recapped the day, deciding on two clear favorites: the Albarino, with its full mid-palate and impressive versatility, and the Vinho Verde with its enticing floral nose and salt-balancing touch of sweetness. We agreed that the Sancerre merited another try, because despite that our bottle appeared to be just a touch off, it still had plenty of character and complexity. My personal favorite, though, was the Muscadet. Complex and intriguing, with the capability to develop in the glass, this bottle has inspired me to seek out other wines from this region.
Each of the five bottles retails between $7-$20 at K&L
Wine Merchants in San Francisco. The staff at K&L are an excellent resource as well, knowledgeable about the wines they stock and happy to help match a bottle to your tastes and budget.
Due to changes in prices and availability of wines please contact local wine merchants to find out the latest information. View a list of Bay Area wine merchants
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