We put this story on the calendar back in September, before melamine-tainted milk started making headlines in China (with some products turning up on Asian grocery store shelves here in the US. Find KQED reporter Oanh Ha's excellent reporting on that story here, here, and here). We'd been planning to focus on criticism of FDA's handling of imported fresh produce, and had to recast the piece when it became clear that the concerns around food safety were much broader.

Another plan was shelved when the FDA declined to let us visit any of their local facilities, including a testing lab in Alameda that had been scheduled for closure only a year ago – right around the time that Mexican jalapeno peppers sickened 13,000 people and devastated the domestic tomato industry. (Officials blamed tomatoes before narrowing in on the peppers.) Luckily, the press office from the Bureau of Customs and Border Patrol generously agreed to show us around a Port of Oakland warehouse, where –- I quickly discovered — there were no FDA inspectors to be found. That's because FDA inspectors do their Port work largely in front of computer screens, scanning shipping manifests for products they believe warrant physical inspection.

That means two things: One, the FDA relies largely on the exporters' own description of what's in the product. As several people told me, it's an "honor system." Two, almost none (less than one percent) of the imported produce is ever tested for salmonella, e.coli, or any of the other human health threats we worry about.

When we finally talked to FDA Director of Food Safety David Acheson by phone from Maryland, he made the point pretty clearly: FDA knows its food safety program needs work. But that's going to require more and sustained funding. It'll be interesting to see how well the agency can make that case come January.

Listen to the Food Safety radio report online.

Organic Fed / Certified Organic

All organic eggs are certified by the USDA. Organic eggs come from hens whose feed is free of pesticides, herbicides, fungicides, and commercial fertilizers. Organic chicken feed contains no animal byproducts and the hens have never been given antibiotics.

Hormones and Antibiotics:

The FDA banned the use of hormones – most notably diethylstilbestrol, or DES – in poultry in 1959, after they not only caused tragic health problems in consumers but also failed to stimulate growth in chickens. "Hormone free" is a misleading bit of marketing that suggests other egg producers are illegally dosing their birds.

Kept in Cages

Some hens are kept in battery cages; enclosures so small the animals can't spread their wings. Battery caged hens are crammed as many as six chickens into a cage at a time, leaving each bird with less personal space than a sheet of ordinary notebook paper. Critics say the battery system causes the spread of disease, requires the painful de-beaking of birds, and restricts natural bird behaviors, such as dusting or nesting.

Have Access to Outside

"Free Range" and "Free Roaming" are terms that bring to mind idyllic barnyard scenes. These labels, which are regulated by the USDA, may be used by a producer if their hens are allowed some access to the outdoors. This does not guarantee constant access, nor is there any specification of the size of the outdoor area (which is, of course, a penned area, not a range).

Beaks Clipped

Also known as debeaking, or beak trimming, is a process by which parts of the beak of a chicken or turkey are trimmed. Many variations of debeaking are used. Most commonly, the beak is shortened permanently, with the lower beak somewhat longer than the upper beak. The goal of this is to reduce cannibalism in stressed-out bird populations, such as in crowded egg-laying hen houses.

Forced Molted

When light and temperature are manipulated so hens lay eggs more than normal.

Omega-3 enriched

Omega-3 is a polyunsaturated fatty acid considered crucial by some for developing brains and preventing heart disease and depression. Farmers boost the omega-3 content of their hens' eggs by adding ground flaxseed, algae, or even fish oil to the birds' feed.

My own kind choice is to stay informed, shop at the local farmers' market and ask questions, and someday, raise my own.

If you have any tips or insights into local egg farms, please do share!

For more egg carton terms, go to:

http://blog.pennlive.com/naturalliving/2007/06/eggs.html

Amy Gotliffe is Conservation Manager at The Oakland Zoo.